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=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
[[Archivo:GPT 06 options.png|300px|thumb|left|GPT 06 route options]]
=== Overview ===
'''Routes''':
Section 6 leads through the spectacular landscape of the Descabezado volcano. There are three main routes: the regular GPT route, from Parque Ingles to La Mina / Los Cipreses (or vice versa), the Condor Circuit from Parque Ingles to Vilches, which is also popular with non-GPT hikers, and the longer, off-the-beaten-path Descabezado Circuit, which begins at Laguna del Maule and ends in La Mina. Optional trips to volcano peaks include Descabezado Grande, Descabezado Chico and Volcán Azul.
'''Right of way issues''':
Most variations of section 6 will pass by Don Victor at km45.5 of the regular route. Even if you don't pass by there, you are likely to meet him at some point on the trail. He requires prior authorization to go through his land, although only some hikers have been able to obtain such authorization, since he seems to not always reply to messages. Without authorization, it is advisable to try to avoid him, especially on the way into his land, since he might turn you around. This makes a start from Vilches unadvisable. You can minimize the probability of meeting Don Victor by taking a CC route closer to Descabezado Grande, described by Natalie below (as of March 2024 this route is not yet part of the track files), but this is not an easy route, especially if there is snow. An alternative is to do the Descabezado Circuit, but finish in Parque Ingles. This shorter circuit still goes through via almost all highlights, but entirely avoids Don Victor. You can also connect to section 5, which similarly avoids him.
Starting from Parque Ingles also has restrictions, see the trip reports below. In particular, there are only a limited number of hikers allowed, and you should not disclose your plans to go via Don Victor's land if you don't have authorization.
Notice that starting from La Mina requires authorization from the hydro company. See the GPT manual on section 6 for details.
==Season 2025/26==
==Season 2023/24==
2024-04-03 to 2024-04-05 // 2,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel (GPT6)
What an amazing section !
I was lucky enough to have all the volcanoes and mountains covered by snow as it was heavy rainy just before I begun this section !
The result is blowminding landscapes, but struggle near the pass, to deal with the mix of snow and soft volcanic ground aha.
I started from El medano, where the shop and most of the cabanas were closed (there's few options to sleep here, cabanas and camping too, but as it was the end of the season, everything was closed). I was lucky enough to found a nice habitant that purpose me to stay at his house for the night for 20K CLP and saved me from a big storm and heavy rain.
I took the option F then E (basically the road from El Medano to the central hydrauelectruca) because I needed to resupply as the shop in El medano was closed. I found my happiness in La Mina where there's two basics shops (pasta, tomato sauce, biscuits, chips... (but no bread, or fresh products like fruits, cheese, ham ...). Here there's possibility to sleep on cabanas as well. There's a hotel/restaurant just one kilometer before La Mina, but no-one was there.
I arrived at the gate of the central, knowing that it will be hard without authorisation. I've sent an email to Rene gaillardo as mentioned on the hiker's manual, but no answer. So I dealt with the security guards at the entrance.
After long negociations the best option (and fastest one to let me pass this day) was to have a writing authorisation to pass from the carabineros. I've been driven to the carabineros by the security guard, and then have hard negotiations again. They finally wrote a paper where I had to explain my expedition and give lot of informations. And they asked me to go on a police station when I finished the section for let them know that I'm still alive aha.
Anyway, this allowed me to pass.
But if you're going NOBO and don't want to struggle like that, don't contact Rene Gallardo, he's not working at the Central anymore, the key contact is now Natali Veloso, that you can contact on that mail address : Natali.veloso@enel.com
Then you hike threw the central on a boring gravel, and arrive to the junction where you find lovely volcanic ground and going up up up to the pass of Los Hornitos. From there it's just landscapes from an other planet, with a very easy to follow path, but not in an easy ground as it's quite sandy.
Views on Laguna del Caracol was amazing ! As the whole circuito condor on RR ! One of the best section of my GPT so far, alone in the world in this absolute incredible landscape ... Blowminding !
I continued threw the pass El estadio PK 33,8, here the snow was very present and the path harder to follow. I continued to the amazing spring del Azufres, very nice landscape to have a hot bath and quite big vapores, nice break during the day !
The crossing over Estero El Volcan (X2) was quite demanding and I had to figure it out and check during long times for the best way to cross. Then I took the variant H to linked the GPT 6 to GPT 5.
*2024-Mar-08 to 2024-Mar-16 / 8.5 days / Hiking / Descabezado Circuit / Control Fronterizo Laguna del Maule - Los Cipreses/ Option 02 + RR + Descabezado Chico / Alex & Christophe
This 170km loop was our last section after 3 months on the GPT. It has been one of the most hard, exhausting, and technical section but also one of the most remote, wild, and magnificient we did. We didn't see any humans during 8 days. The extrem wind and cold temperatures, the infinite CC in open areas, the white landscapes without any shadow, and the D+ in soft sand were constantly forgotten thanks to the lunar landscapes. Here are some added informations for the GPT06-02 to the ones given by Natalie & Tomáš.
Day 1 : We took the bus at 7:30 from Talca to Armerillo. Then we hitchhiked to the beginning of GPT06-02 and began at 11am. After the first pass (-35.94909, -70.45347), we followed the track but going down thru the landslide seems to be a better option. We slept next to the river where there was a good wind shelter (more or less) at (-35.934832, -70.459308). That's a good spot to have the sun early in the morning, which was appreciated since it was -4°C during the night.
Day 2 : The second path (-35.652, -70.43356) was pretty steep and unstable in the last meters but easily doable. The puesto seemed to be unoccupied. There was water every 1 or 2 hours. Then we took the {06-02F} as it looked to avoid swamps and we slept next to the river at (-35.827017, -70.399535) to have the sun as long as possible and to have it early in the morning.
Day 3 : After the pass at (-35.785707, -70.403584), the landscape changed drastically! We took the {06-02E} to avoid the swamps of the other side. It worked but we had to cross the rio san Francisco. Small ford, but not jumpable. We stopped at (-35.693111, -70.427244). There was a clear source and a blue lagoon to take a quick bath. We had wind all night long, maybe there's a better place next to the lagoon.
Day 4: It must be possible to find a camp spot around (-35.667931, -70.422663). After that point, it begins to climb and there's no more flat place. We took the {06-02D} and it was a good option out of the elevation and the crazy wind. When we arrived at the snow limit, we went 20m down to find a good way in the snow. Then we had to run in the flowing sand to the rocks and had to clamber the last meters between two wind gusts throwing us sand in the eyes. It was pretty scary because of the wind conditions but doable. Finally on the plateau, we had to manage with winds at 80km/h and sandstorms. I would definitely not pass in case of bad weather or with stronger wind. We took a break at (-35.613055, -70.423114), first water since the pass. Then we followed the GPX track but the OSM offers to take the westside of the river and it looked to be better as we had to go up and down in the sand many times. Finally after this exhausting day, we found a camp spot with a kind of wind protection at (-35.560315, -70.441588).
Day 5: After a long morning with a NW crazy constant cold wind, we stopped at the hot springs. We tried many places but never found a source warmer than 30°C. After a quick bath, we filled our water bladder at the last point mentioned by Tomas & Natalie (-35.48544, -70.5994) to go to sleep to the pass. There was still a ton of snow next to the pass but didn't see melting snow on the way. There are different camp possibilities with a stunning view in the last 600m before the pass but we slept at (-35.494194, -70.622529) to climb the Descabezado Chico the next day. Ok wind shelter.
Day 6 : We woke up at 6am to go to Descabezado Chico before the sunrise. We crossed a melting snow river at (-35.49828, -70.621259). Even if the last part is steep rocky and sandy, the climb is easy. We reached the summit in 1h20 and had one of the best sunrises of our lives ! There are some places to be sheltered from the freezing wind and enjoy the view. Back to the pass, we followed more or less the track because there was still a lot of snow and some ways didn't look to be the best to follow. Next to Lago de la Mollera (-35.49782, -70.635864), we went down to the lake because we didn't see how to avoid a snow wall and because it was looking to be a nice path to go down (breaking news : no)... We managed to go up a little bit further (-35.501361, -70.641377). When we arrived below Cerro Colorado, we took water in a blue lagoon and we hiked the crest on the left side to avoid deep sand (-35.524775, -70.661721). Then we stayed on the left side of the Cerro Colorado to go down (-35.525073, -70.670594) until the river. That was a quick and good choice. Finally we managed a flat and more or less wind sheltered camp at (-35.55463, -70.708441).
Day 7: There was still a ton of snow at the pass and made our own track in the snow slope a little bit upper than the GPS track to cross more safely. We wanted to follow the high route described by Natalie & Tomás to avoid Don Víctor but as we saw how much snow there still was, how already tired we were (but not as much as our shoes) we decided to take the RR to go south. When we watched the high route from the RR, there was still a lot of snow patches. We finally stopped at Water, Camp [48.1/1837]. Not the best idea because it becomes a freezing hole during the night.
Day 8-9: We followed the RR, nothing more to add to other posts except that we never met Don Victor !
* 2024-02-29 to 2024-03-07 / 7.5 days / Descabezado Circuit - Laguna del Maule to Los Cipreses / option 02, off-trail variant, 03, RR + Descabezado Grande and chico / Marilyne (+Fangwen and Tobi for first 3 days)
First section on the GPT and I found it amazing! I won’t repeat anything that Tobi and Fangwen have mentioned below that also applies to my trip.
On day 5, I used the variant suggested by Natalie&Tomas that avoids Refugio Blanquillo and Don Victor. I had met with 3 park rangers earlier in the day who questioned me about my plans and asked if I was planning to go to Refugio blanquillo. When I assured them that I would not they went on their way. I watched them and their 6 horses run over a steep patch of snow and it gave me the confidence to cross it too, otherwise I may have tried to find a different route as a fall there would have been highly consequential.
Had to cross many patches of snow on Natalie & Tomas alternate route and it includes a stream crossing that could be very dangerous in the wrong season as it is above a waterfall.
I climbed Descabezado Chico on day 4 and Descabezado Grande using route 3 on day 6. The Grande climb took 6+ hours and I didn’t have any desire to keep fighting scree fields after so I skipped Azul. At the end of that day all my stuff and me were very dusty from that climb.
On day 8 I exited at the hydroelectric station Los Cipreses. A security guard that saw me running down the road to catch the bus offered me a ride to the main gate and we had a pleasant chat. Caught the 3:30pm bus to Talca around 4pm. They seem to start late from Medano.
Very sunny section, I used a small solar panel on my backpack and ended up the section with all my electronics fully charged.
* 2024-02-29 to 2024-03-08: Fangwen and Tobi (+ parts together with Marilyne) / 8.5 days Descabezado Circuit variant, Laguna del Maule to Vilches (option 02 -- variant 02D -- RR -- option 05)
What a fantastic trip! Two experienced GPT teams had independently recommended this circuit to us, and both described it as their favorite experience on the GPT. Natalie&Tomas have an extensive trip report below. I don't have a trip report from Markus&Jenni, who hiked this circuit in 2019, but they provided us with very useful waypoints. If you are interested, message us ([[Special:Emailuser/Tobfang]]) and I'll ask if I can share this data.
It is advisable to start this trip from Laguna del Maule. This way, you can easily lengthen the trip (by climbing the three volcanos) or shorten it (by exiting in Parque Ingles) towards the end of the trip. Also, you start at 2000m, which is a nice in the summer heat. It took us 8.5 days; we had food for 10 days and intended to climb some volcanoes, but when we got there it was quite windy, so we simply went straight to Vilches.
This hike is definitely off the beaten path: the arriero Christian at S 35° 50.549', W 070° 24.114' said that we were the first hikers this season (in March!). He was very friendly and shared a delicious melon with us.
Our favorite places were a beautiful valley with white sand, and a refreshing Laguna at S 35° 41.643', W 070° 25.651' and the Laguna Aquas Calientes at S 35° 30.441', W 070° 31.990'. The latter is not actually a hot lake, but there are several small streams of warm water. We camped right at S 35° 30.129', W 070° 31.514', right next to a really nice hot pool.
Things to watch out for: although water was generally abundant, there are some spots where water is a bit more sparse (especially late in the season) and you might have to carry for up to one day. See Natalie's trip report for details. Additionally, earlier in the season there might be snow fields. The winter in 2023 had a crazy amount of snow, so even though we went in March we had a lot of water from snow melt and the two passes at 02D (S 35° 39.116', W 070° 26.016') and S 35° 33.137', W 070° 44.275' had steep snow fields. It was a bit sketchy, but okay. For the first pass, there are other options up, which may open up earlier. For the second pass, Option 2B traverses a lower pass (we didn't go there). A lot of hiking is on cross country, much of it on sand or gravel of different firmness. Sometimes you sink in, sometimes not. Flat or downhill travel is generally efficient, uphill is slow. Bring (mini)-gaiters, not just because of sand but also spikey plants. Also, sun protection is crucial, you won't have any tree for a week.
Logistics: Interbus (call them on WhatsApp: +56 9 9886 5872) runs a bus Mon-Fri from Talca to Medano (which is a bit further than la Mina). As of March 2024, this bus left at 12:30 and 19:00, returning to Talca from Médano at 7:20 and 15:30. From Médano hitchhike to the border checkpoint. It's not super easy, and you might only get as far as the furthest mine, roughly 5km before the border checkpoint. Alternatively, use a ride sharing app to go to the border checkpoint. We were able to get via multiple rides all the way to the border checkpoint, but it took some time (we arrived at 5.30pm). If you want to check out Laguna del Maule, tell the border guard that you're not crossing into Argentina, and they will let you pass. But the border checkpoint is closed at night (between 6pm and 9am?) and you're not supposed to cross it then. We quickly went to the lake and back before it closed.
Vilches Alto has a daily bus service to Talca at 12:30 and 16:00.
* 2024-Feb- 22 to 2024-Feb-27/ 6days/hiking/SOBO/06/RR + volcano Decabezado/Paulina
Amasing section!
Day 1
I took a bus from Talca to Molina ( a lot of buses per day, still in February and later to Parque Ingles ( several buses per day in the season, most of them till 12 pm).
As it was a rainy day, my plan was to walk only to El Bolson. I did not have the entrance because I could not pay on the website with my card. I told to the Rangers that I would like to go to Los Cipreses, they where like I need the permition of the landowner to do it. I just ignored it. At first they were saying that it would not be possible to camp on El Bolson the next 2 days. But I waited about one hour, reasked several times, and finally one of the Rangers went with me to the place where you can buy ticket for camping El Bolson ( 7000 CHP), also they told me that I did not need to buy the park entrance.
The El Bolson camping is just huge, I don't understand all the mess with the acces. When I came up, the guy from the camping just took my name and passport number, but did not ask to show the camping payment confirmation, or park payment.
Day 2 ( El Bolson- Termas de Azufre)
The trail was visible all the time. At this time of the season, no snow on the pass. Termas de Azufre are amasing, so it's good to come there not very late to enjoy them. Just next to the river, there are a few spots for tents.
This day I also met one chilean couple doing curcuito condor, and at Termas a chilean family with kids on horses with an arriero.
The famous owner of the land did not show up this day and the next days.
Day 3. To refugio Blanquillo
At first there are a lot of animal trails, so you need to check with gps which one is a good one.
The ford on the river on the way to the pass was short but kind of difficult ( almost to the waist, I'm 1,69 cm, strong current). It's because of a heavy 2 days rain two day before. Later I met people doing curcuito condor from the other side and they told me that the rangers did not want to let them do the trail because of this river high level. But I think that after some.more days of a dray weather it's not a difficult ford.The rest of the trail was easy to follow with beautiful views.
At refugio, I met one couple doing curcuito condor and two chilean couple who came to climb Volvano Decapezado. Very nice meeting.
The refugio was already closed. The hot spring was not really hot.
Day 4
Together with chilean hikers, we climbed Decapezado Grande. It's a long hiking day, but it's really worth to do it. The way down is easy and very fast.
Day 5 to Laguna de los Hornos
About 20 min. from the refugio, there are a lot of different animal paths ,so you will need to consult a gps to see which one is a GPT one.
The views around Laguna Caracol are amasing, I think it was my favourite part on this section of an extreme beauty. No navigation difficulties on the trail. Indeed,laguna de los Hornos is in a big part dried.
Day 6 till La Mina
I agree that it's really worth to climb the volcano
Los Hornitos. It's a very short way up.The rest of the trail is at first a descend in a deep sand ( so you can go very fast) and than a walk on a gravel road ( I found the valley very nice, I was amased how fast the landscape changes). I got a ride about 2 km from Los Cipreses, very nice people, they took me to the shop in los Alamos , but as the owner was not there they took me to a shop in La Mina ( 500 m before the restaurant La Cordillera). You can find there several little shops, if you go around you can complete the resupply for the next section ( mostly pasta, tuna, tomato souce, ramen, eggs, instant souls). No camping gas.
I camped in a little, very nice camping/ garden with a grape shade in a restaurant La Cordillera place ( 3000 ChP), they have also cabanas but I don't know the price. A really nice place to stay and chill, you can eat all the fruits in the garden. The lady from the restaurant was very nice, they serve nice,food, not expensive ( I paid 18000 for camping, breakfast, big dinner, juice, and a good portion of pisco sour).
For the next section, it's kind of easy to hitch-hike ( there are a lot of local workers on the road) to the beginning of the trail.
* 2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-18 / 5.5 days / SOBO / RR / Gabriele - Trails of Wander
Day 1 - Parque Ingles - Laguna Las Animas. Hernandez bus from Molina to Parque Ingles 8:10 am. I had park entry and camp permit for El Bolson that I bought on-line. I indicated to the Guardiaparque my 6 days itinerary RR to Los Cipreses, no issues but had been told several areas are private land. Met only one hiker after El Bolson (See note below).
Day 2 - Laguna Las Animas - Termas de Azufres.
Day 3 - Termas de Azufres - Camp along Rio Blanquillo near Vegas Manantial Pelado RR + small section of OH-Tl-V 06-01. I did not ford Estero El Volcán at Ford 06 [29.4/2190] as with the high snow/water year I felt it was unsafe or risky at best and made little sense to try at that spot. I continued CC on the right bank of Estero El Volcán for about 300-400 m to reach the snow field where I crossed safely without even touching water at all. The CC section had only a handful of spots requiring short scrambles, but no issues. For reference, I crossed the snowfield to reach RR at -35.31196, -70.44898. Given the current water level condition I think this is an easier and safer option.
Originally intended to camp at Laguna Manantial Pelado for the night but the valley below looked great with all surrounding peaks so I camped there.
Day 4 - Camp near Vegas Manantial Pelado - Camp South of Laguna Caracol (Camp 06 56.3/2034). Based on the conversation I had two days earlier with a Chilean hiker who was doing the Circuito Condor regarding Don Victor the dueno/owner of the land traversed on day 4, including Descabezado Grande, I decided to avoid encountering Don Victor if at all possible. I did not follow the RR directly to the refuge Blanquillo at 45.5/1887 but kept away from it and walked CC to reach RR further South where it climbs up. I did not meet him and cannot say if he was at the refuge, which I only saw from the distance. After reading and listening to multiple reports regarding the situation with Don Victor land ownership it seems to me that the best approach is to avoid or minimize contact with him if possible, in order to reduce escalation of further problems for future hikers, in particular Chileans hikers who appear to really have very hard time gaining approval from him to simply traverse his land.
Day 5 - Camp South of Laguna Caracol - Laguna de los Hornos.
Day 6 - Laguna de los Hornos - Los Cipreses. I reached Los Cipreses at about 1 pm on Sunday. The guard at the gate of the Hydroelectrico Los Cipreses told me there are no buses down to Talca on Sunday. I hitchhiked on 115 and got a ride to Talca fairly quickly.
Water was plentiful for the entire route. Limited snowfields traverse with no issues. 100% full sun exposure all day after El Bolson. Windy at higher elevations. Harsh and dry environment with a lot of sand and dust. Lots of steep climbing in sand. Overall easy orientation and easy trails to follow but GPS track needed. Magnificent hike.
*2024-Feb-08 to 2024-Feb-14 / 5.5 days / SOBO / RR 01c 01e 03 03a/ Matthias de Austria
Bus from Curicó to Molina at 9am, immediate connecting bus to Parque Inglés. Buy a ticket online for the national park (8500 for foreigners, 100% surcharge! If the international debit card selection doesn't work, just try the national one, my card only worked there). You can also add the authorisation for El Bolsón online, but you have to pay for it in cash at a ticket office in Parque Inglés. 80 people per day are allowed for Bolsón, everything is sold out at lunchtime. Night in Parque Ingles at Hostal Valverde 40k for one person in a 4 bed room (solo use) with own toilet and washbasin but shared shower, towel costs extra, quiet, next to river for bathing (lots of local families though).
At 8am next day, a Wednesday, there are around 50-60 people at the ticket office for Bolsón. I went to the locked gate at the start of the RR and quickly climb over it hoping noone saw me, as I'm not planning to stay in Bolsón anyway. Better not to mention that to the rangers. Also, only gas cookers are allowed. After about an hour, I'm just a little way off by a stream when a ranger rides past on a motorbike. I don't know if he saw me, maybe he thought I was coming back from Bolsón. So if you hear a motorbike, it's might best to change direction shortly and head towards Parque Inglés, or even better, start much earlier in the morning.
I bypass Bolsón heading south at 01A, shortly after the bridge at -35.4973,-70.9052 is a large private area, no trespassing sign. I don't want to set a bad example for the numerous day trippers around and take a path along the stream (southern side) to the waterfall. Once out of sight of people and Bolsón, I briefly climb up the steep slope and CC to option 1. Water shortly before start of 01c. Next water at -35.5226,-70.8653, even with a small pool.
Don Victor is the large landowner in the area. His hut is, as far as I understood, the refuge Blanquillo at 45.5/1887. Hikers used to be welcome on his land, but after they left a lot of rubbish behind and invaded his hut, he no longer allows them and sends them back. However, he (sometimes?) makes exceptions for foreigners. You could ask him for permission via whatsapp, but he was so flooded with requests that he can no longer be contacted during the season. I just took a chance and went to his land. A rider around 37.1/2382 asked me what I was doing here, I asked him if he was Don Victor, to which he replied in the affirmative. I then introduced myself, said what my destination was, where I came from and that I am aware of the problem of dirty hikers, but that I am very careful with nature. He then allowed me to continue. I met him twice more in the following days, at Blanquillo 45.5/1887 and at Water 48.1/1837, and he reminded me not to throw away any rubbish.
At the refuge I met a Chilean-German couple camping, they came from Los Cipreses and didn't know that it was forbidden to enter this land, but Don Victor allowed them to stay after they argued with German cleanliness (I guess he had never been hiking in the Alps before the regular cleaning teams cleaned everything, otherwise his trust in the Europeans would probably not be so great).
Fordings: All very easy, path at Laguna del Caracol is no longer under water. No snowfields to cross. The water level of the lagunas (except Manantial Pelado) is dropping rapidly, I estimate about 10 to 15cm per day.
Water: Plenty, except for hiking up Descabezado. Bring as much as possible from Blanquillo.
Summit day Descabezado: Very strong, cold winds all day. A good windbreaker, hat and gloves are essential. Only cloudy day since I've been in Chile, 20 minutes after I left the summit it cleared up. Extremely strenuous ascent on very loose gravel, almost every step sinks in deeply and slips (I weigh 100kg), takes 6 hours from base camp to the summit, even on the easier route. Descent effortless, under 2h.
Camps:
Day 1: Laguna Manantial Pelado
Day 2: Basecamp -35.5978,-70.7957 (I widened it, smoothed it out, deepened it and extended the stone wall. Nevertheless, the winds up there can be massive, you have to brace the tent well.)
Day 3: Next to the not existing anymore hot springs at 45.6
Day 4: Laguna la Turbia
Day 5&6: Laguna des los Hornitos (rest day, just beeing naked all day swimming and lying around in the sun)
Hornitos and Turbia were nice for swimming, the others really cold.
No problems at Los Ciprese, friendly guard spoke good english, gave me water and wifi.
Bus to Talca (3500 peso) at main street came around 15:50-16:00.
Absolutely incredible landscape. I'm here for dream routes like this. Perhaps the best hiking week of my life. GPT01-04 was nice, but GPT06 is in a completely different league. I loved it and I deeply miss this kind of remoteness in central europe.
*2024-feb-2 to 2024-feb-6 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Juliet and Martin
Day 1 parque ingles - Lagunas las animas
18km d+1200 d-100
Departure at 6:30 a.m. to pass the conaf. No worries
First part to el bolson. At el bolson we can refuel with water. The campsite attendant asked us for our conaf ticket. After explaining to him that we were going to laguna animas, he let us pass without any trouble. Continuation to laguna animales without shade but no snow. Bivouac spot on the beach but no shade, or to the west on meadows to pitch your tent, but used by a herd of horses.
The trail is generally easy to follow as it is marked by stone markers.
Day 2 laguna las animas - Therma de azufre
11km D+400 D-700
Shade-free day. Lots of trails in the sand.
We didn't manage to find a good bivouac spot (mainly because of the heat coming from the ground).
Water spots regularly, especially early in the day.
Day 3 Therma de azufre - El banquillo refuge
20km D+ 900 D- 900
The indicated crossing point was not crossable for us in our opinion (no experience in river crossings), so we decided to walk along the river bank in the rocks for several km. We crossed the river higher than indicated thanks to the snow.
Water spot regularly as several rivers crossed.
Arriving at el banquillo, we were disappointed not to meet Umberto. Very good bivouac spot with several pitches already made.
Day 4 El banquillo refuge - laguna de los hornitos
20km D+ 900 D- 900
Most of the climb is up to the pass after the laguna. Quite a physical climb in the sand. But we did it in about 1h30. The rest of the day was pretty much the same.
Regular water stops too.
No problem following the trail.
A little extra for a new encounter with a herd of horses.
Bivouac spot around the lake. Nice possibility before descending to the lake (indicated waypoint camp).
Day 5 laguna de los hornitos - los alamos
All downhill to los cipreses. The first part is in sand, so it's a quick descent. Once on the road, we were often overtaken by cars. No one asked us for a permit (or offered to hitchhike).
We passed guards at the exit/entrance to the power station, who offered us water and no problem getting through.
In los alamos, a small store selling a few products such as pasta, ice cream, batteries, etc. It's run by a lady and her husband. They also sell beds for sleeping. They're very welcoming
Buses to Talca at 7.30am and 3.30pm. Not many cars passing through. We didn't get picked up hitchhiking.
* 2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-30) / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 01+03+06/ Joscha
Day 1: RR [0-10,1] + OH06-01A + OH06-01[10,7-25,1] + RR [36,9-44,6]
A few small streams at OH-01 and one bigger one near Laguna Manantial Pelado (ankle high ford). A few snow patches above 2300 m, but you can easily walk over or around them. Water is flowing at all the marked locations.
Day 2: RR [44,6-45,8] + to Descabezado and back on OH06-03 and OH06-03A + RR [45,8-55,7]
River at 44,8 was a little over ankle high ford in the morning. The climb up to Descabezado has a lot of steep gravel slopes, which makes it tiresome. Water is flowing at all the marked locations.
Day 3: RR [55,7-58,3] + to Los Quillayes and back on OH06-06 and OH06-06A + RR [58,3-59,6] + OH06-C + RR [62-69]
OH06-06A is a steep gravel climb, but worth it. Really nice view from Los Quillayes (but similar to the view from Pass Hornitos. Pass Hornitos has some bigger snowfields on the southern side, but its easy to walk around them. OH06-C was pretty steep at the end, so maybe the RR is more convenient. Little above ankle high Ford north of Laguna de los Hornos in the afternoon.
Day 4: RR [69-80] + OH06-E + OH06-F
Small Shop (I bought some Pasta) and Restaurant in Los Alamos. I tried to continue on the RR from Los Alamos to El Medina. But at 81,3 km the trail vanished and I wasn't able to continue. Therefore I walked back and walked on the paved road OH E+F to El Medano. Camping + Thermas in El Medano costs 7000 Pesos. There is a small shop, but it is very expensive (e.g. 1 Ramen Cup costs 2000 Pesos).
GPT06 has some really spectacular views. Especially Pass Hornitos and Volcan Descabezado. There is no shade, so the sun is gonna burn you all day. This + the sand/gravel is demanding for your body and your equipment.
*Jan-26-2024 to Jan-30-2024 / 4.5 days / SOBO / Oh5, Oh 3, RR / Matthieu
Amazing section, from the entrance in Vilches to the end in los cipreses. Sand and lack of shadow are the main difficulties.
Right of way : that was my first fear. Concerning guardia parques : en parque ingles, they say that they cannot let officially hikers go to the volcan, as duenos asked (OH1 passes by 4 differents private properties). But if you have a message by don victor it's ok. So no need for discussion there just take a ticket to el bolson and no more words. El bolson was closed for a few days for maintenance, so i just got out of parque ingles. At Alto de Lircay, guardiaparque told me that it was my responsability to enter don Victor's property without his permission. You can legally turn back into the park (or coming from parque ingles) paying for another day at the end, at the entrance, if you want to come back by altos de Lircay after the volcan.
- Don Victor : I had the chance to meet him near the valle del venado, on a horse. I asked for permission to enter his lands and continue south, that he offered me easily with promess to not let garbage in the zone. I was glad to meet him out of his lands, I don't know how he would react into. He especially asked to guardaparques to say to hikers that it was not permitted to go on his lands because it's always full of trash, and he has to clean it up all the time. He told me that foreigners were more respectfull than locals though. His phone is off all season because it became a public number, and he has to many calls to enter the volcan. So if you want permission better send a message before season. To note, his lands go at least to the laguna caracole, don't know after.
I saw another chilean hiker walking up the volcan, didn't seem to be a problem for him.
Water : often present on RR, in the lagunas or the oasis. A good stream just before the top of the volcan to. No need to carry kgs of it.
No water at the volcan basecamp though, so I carried it from the puesto.
Snow : From now on, no snow issues from the entrance in Vilches to the end at los cipreses, so no need for crampons (with entrance by option 5, I don't know for the entrance by RR). Few patches you can easily bypass before and after the third pass 59km.
No patches on the way to the top of volcan.
River crosses (1.78m) : only once Rio blancillo, at the first Ford (water to knees). Then I stayed on the right side of the river until the end. I had to walk inside for 1 minute, water to hips, but no current so it was easy. I bypassed the two other crosses this way.
Camp : valle venado (conaf), really friendly worker there. - Basecamp Volcan : beware, I made the mistake to not plant my tent well with heavy rocks, and the pikes in the sand are no use... so when I came back from the volcan it was upside down with strong wind... a whole adventure to pack everything ! - Oasis at water 48km. - Around 70 kms, some nice camping spots near the river at the right side of the road.
Volcan : up to the top by option 3, then down by variant 3A. Taking the variant directly seems like hell, lot of sand. More rocks on regular option 3. Physically demanding, but no other particular difficulties.
Proposition of new option : as the right of way may evolve badly in the future, I suggest a new option road from el camping valle venado to tricehue, following the rio claro. I asked to the guardaparque at the campsite, he said that there are people doing it usually. This year the river is to strong though, so maybe in march or next year.
Buses at the end : the lign is from talca to el medano, a stop at the exit of los alamos on the road. From el medano : buses 7h30 and 15h30, monday to Friday (dont know for week ends).
From talca : 12h30 and 19h
At el colorado, buses to talca more often.
* 2024-Jan-11 to 2024-Jan-17 / 7 Days / Hiking / NOBO / O5, O3, O3A, RR, O1 / Vlad
A spectacular section to end my 5-week trip on the GPT. I’ve never experienced a landscape like this before and the weather (straight up sunshine for the whole week) was a welcome change after the unrelenting wind and rain of Patagonia. There were no other people outside of the start and end of the trail in national parks. Beautiful and desolate wild camping near the volcano. That said, it was very rough on my gear. The dry sand, abrasive rocks, spiky bushes did some damage to my shoes (erased on tread on the soles after sliding down scree slopes for 2 days), socks (holes after rubbing on rocks since I did not have gaiters), trekking poles (they were in a poor shape already but the rocks and sand finished them and the tips got sanded off), pants (got some holes as well).
Day 1: I took an overnight bus from Puerto Montt to Talca (22k CLP, very comfortable, booked through Rodovairro.cl). After arriving in Talca, there was a bus to Vilches at 10:30. I got off at the last stop and made it to the PN Altos de Lircay entrance around 1 PM. I asked the ranger about access to Descabezado land since I texted the owner, Don Victor (WhatsApp +56998863554) but he didn’t respond to me. The ranger said that Don Victor doesn’t respond at the moment but he said it was okay for the rangers to allow hikers to leave the park and go to his land.
I was charged 8.5k CLP for park entrance and 10k CLP for 2 nights camping inside the park. This is because I wasn’t allowed to start hiking to Valle el Venado the first day (trail closes at 11:00 am even though it’s only 19 km 🙃) and had to camp at the park entrance, then another night once I get to Valle el Venado. It was a bummer as I already had limited time for this section, but it allowed me to go for a day hike up the mountain in Altos de Lircay and watch a beautiful sunset. The forest in Altos de Lircay is beautiful with teeming wildlife and abundant wildflowers. I saw a woodpecker, a fox, colorful iguanas, a snake, giant spiders, and endless wildflowers.
You could maybe get to Altos de Lircay on time to start hiking the same day if you leave on the 7 am bus from Talca. They give you a paper at the park ranger’s office and I was asked for it 3 times by different rangers throughout my trip.
Day 2: Walked from Altos de Lircay to Valle el Venado with a side trip to see the waterfall. Met a group on horses. A few river fords that were all below knee level. Got to the campsite at Valley el Venado which wasn’t very nice. Horse poop everywhere, had to clear the spot for a tent. No one asked to check if I paid for the campsite. The group on horses camped somewhere up the valley from the refugio as I heard them and saw some come down to use the bathroom.
Day 3: I did the 3 fords of river Blanquillo as suggested on the GPS track. The first one is at the spot where river is widest, so it was only knee deep. On the second ford, it’s narrower and the current was strong, it was crotch deep for me (178 cm). Third ford knee deep. In hindsight I should’ve just stayed on the left side of the river and only crossed it once in the end.
It was a very short day, 10 km, but I thought it would be nice to arrive at Blanquillo refugio early in case Umberto was there. However, when I got there, the refugio was empty, and I couldn’t find any hot springs. I don’t think the bathing pool is there anymore. I scouted around for half an hour and only saw horse and cow poop in every little stream and pool of water. I followed one of the streams about 100 m uphill to get clean drinking water but I still saw poop on the banks.
Since Umberto wasn’t there, I cooked dinner by the refugio and kept going to the Descabezado basecamp (-35.59773, -70.79645) 3.4 km further and 600 m of elevation higher up from the Banquillo refugio, which made the next day’s climb up the volcano shorter.
The sunset at the Descabezado basecamp was out of this world.
Day 4: I left from basecamp at sunrise since I didn’t want to walk in the dark. I had to cross a few not steep snow fields at the beginning but nothing at higher elevations. Every snow field higher up is easily bypass-able. That said, the climb up to the crater still felt brutal to me. There’s absolutely no sure footing, everything is just a scree slope. When ascending, you can either climb up the 45 degree scree slope or try to walk on the rocks which are easier to plant your foot on. I chose the rocks but they too were sliding sometimes, even large boulders, so I had to be careful not to let a giant rock fall directly on my other foot. It took me 4.5 hours to reach the crater from the basecamp following the less steep option 3. It was very windy, cold, and the sun was shining directly in my face early in the morning as I was climbing up the volcano so it was a little difficult to see the path sometimes.
On the way down, I saw my tent and was trying to slide down the scree slope directly towards the basecamp roughly following the steep option 3A. Going down was actually really fun and effortless. But be careful and still check GPS regularly when you descend, as there are some scree slopes that end directly in a vertical plunge down to the ice field below.
I refilled my water bottles with ice cold water flowing from the snow field here (-35.60455, -70.78525), using my trowel as a spout. I’m glad I did because when I got back to basecamp, the water I stashed there in the morning was as warm as a hot soup after baking in the tent in direct sunlight all day.
I was considering staying at basecamp location for another night because it’s such a visually stunning spot with gorgeous sunsets and incredible stars at night, but it was just way too hot to remain there so I packed up and went back down to Banquillo refugio. Unfortunately, Umberto was still not there so I just enjoyed the company of cows and went to sleep.
Day 5: I went north in the white sand dunes following Banquillo river which nurtures a breathtaking oasis in the desert. I thought this area was way more beautiful than the Banquillo refugio (especially with all the cow poop there) so I wished I kept going a little further the previous night and set up camp somewhere by the river in this area (-35.53354, -70.79191). Disclaimer: I didn’t actually look for a spot that was flat and sheltered but that whole area just felt like a paradise so I think one could find a suitable spot for a tent there.
Right at the fork of the trails where one can choose to take Option 1 or continue on RR to Termas del Azufre, I ran into arrieros transporting hundreds of goats through the snow-covered slopes, it was a beautiful scene and a blessing for me as their footprints helped me find a safe way in some semi-steep snow sections I had to cross after 2400 m. I chose to follow Option 1 to El Bolson because the RR on the right at the fork looked like it had loads of snow still. Even on Option 1, I had to be careful and kick-step my way through the snow fields as I had no crampons and my trail runners had virtually no tread left on them after being ground on the volcanic rocks and sand the previous couple of days.
One particularly dangerous spot is here (-35.51932, -70.82684) just after Laguna Manantial Pelado. It’s a big snow field that started melting and formed a lake that’s not on the map. It was breathtakingly beautiful going west, but if you were coming from the other direction you could not see the collapse of the snow field until it’s too late and you’re on the edge, so stick to the trail and walk on the side of the valley in that spot.
I got to El Bolson just before sunset. It was surprisingly a beautiful and scenic campground and not too crowded on a Monday night. I spoke a few words to the people in the refugio, they just told me to set up my tent and didn’t ask to pay for camping.
At Bolson, I met a group of Chilean students from Talca who spoke really good English and we had a lot of fun eating dinner together, smoking weed and going to swim in the nearby waterfall the next morning. There are trails going down the cliff to the swimming pools here (-35.49801, -70.90767). It’s a really pristine swimming spot, just be careful and don’t get too close to the waterfalls as we heard there was an accident the previous night where a rock fell off and pushed a person over the edge of the waterfall so they plunged down into a pool below.
Day 6: Hiked from Bolson to Parque Ingles entrance, where the ranger once again asked for my paper registration from Altos de Lircay documenting my trip. The shops at Parque Ingles are really tiny and would not be sufficient for another section resupply in my opinion, I just bought some fresh fruit and hitched a 3 KM ride to Siete Tazas. By the time I got there (19:00) all the trails were closed and the ranger told me to go find camping at Valley de las Catas. It was 13k CLP (ouch) for 1 night camping with inclusion of the ticket for a 3-km loop on the southern bank of river Claro to see Siete Tazas. The campground had a hot shower which was very welcomed, but otherwise I think Siete Tazas was not worth it and I wish I spent my last day attempting to hike up to Laguna de las Animas instead. Though I don’t know if it would even be possible as the entire rim of the mountain seemed snow covered so there must’ve still been a very steep, yet short, snow field one would need to cross to get over the pass.
Day 7: I took a morning walk out of the campground and caught a 11:30 bus back to Molina, then a bus from Molina to Santiago for a flight home the next day.
* 2024 Jan 07 / 4.5 days / SOBO / RR / Anh
* 20232024-Jan-03 to 20232024-Jan-08 / 6 days / Hiking / round trip anticlockwise / O5 - O3 - RR - O1 - O1c (Condor Circuit) / Lotti and Alex
Originally we wanted to do the Cóndor Circuit, but after we read about the troubles some of you had, we decided to take the safer option 1 to avoid the snow and landslide above Termas de Azufre. This route felt very safe and the snow was not a problem at all. We ended up with a beautiful round trip from Altos de Lircay to Valle Venado, then to the summit of Descabezado, then Valle del Indio and back to Altos de Lircay. The landscape is incredibly beautiful and diverse, and we enjoyed it a lot. The scariest part for us was fording the Rio Blanquillo on day 2.
*2023-Jan-16 to 2023-Jan-25 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / Descabezado Circuit variant: OH 06-02 & 06-03 Laguna Maule to Vilches w/ volcans / Natalie & Tomáš
An extremely long description so my apologies but hopefully it will help someone. We Started in Laguna del Maule and ended in Vilches with inclusion of Descabezado, Azul, Descabezado Chico and Colorado.
==Season 2016/17==
=Resupply and Accommodation=
During the main season in January and February several buses go from Molina and Curico to Radal and some even go all the way to Parque Ingles. Outside of the main season there is only one daily bus from Molina to Radal leaving in the afternoon from the rural bus station in Molina.
* Jan-24 / Joscha
The Bus between Molina and Parque Ingles is run by the company "Buses Hernández". You can check the departure times on their website.
*2020 / Frank In summer there are 6 buses a day Molina-Parque Ingles.
Sunday: Molina-P.Ingles: 09:00 // P.Ingles-Molina: 15:30 / 17:00
==Los Cipreses / El Medano ==
* 2024 SOBO Permit required at Parque Inglés:
- payment 8000 8500 Pesos online! (not in cash) with online your Conaf account https:// shop.pasesparques.cl/evento/2564/radal-siete-tazas
- offline formular at Conaf station
- payment 7000 Pesos for Campsite El Bolsón in Cash (not possible with credit card, 200m from Conaf Station)