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[[Archivo:Panoramica capitan del quempo.jpg|thumb|center|1000px|Panorámica del Cerro Plomo desde la cumbre del [[Capitán del Quempo]]. También se observa el menos conocido [[Nevado el Plomo]], entre otras muchas montañas. Diciembre de 2009.]]
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{{no confundir|Not to be confused with [[Nevado el Plomo]], a sixthousand far less visited}}
{{RutaForm2
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[[File:Panoramica capitan del quempo.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Plomo from the summit of [[Capitán del Quempo]]. Among many others, [[Nevado el Plomo]] is visible to the right. December 2009.]]
|Actividad=Trekking
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{{RutaForme
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|Actividad=Montaña
 
|País=Chile (english)
 
|País=Chile (english)
 
|CiudadesChile=Santiago
 
|CiudadesChile=Santiago
Línea 8: Línea 9:
 
|BellezaEscenica=Atractiva
 
|BellezaEscenica=Atractiva
 
|Atractivos=Vistas panorámicas, Glaciar, Río, Patrimonio Cultural
 
|Atractivos=Vistas panorámicas, Glaciar, Río, Patrimonio Cultural
|Duración=4 días
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|Duracion=4 días
|Dificultad Física=Exigente
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|Dificultad Técnica=Fácil
|Dificultad Técnica=Alta
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|Sendero=Tramos sin sendero
 
|Sendero=Tramos sin sendero
 
|Señalizacion=Inexistente
 
|Señalizacion=Inexistente
 
|Infraestructura=Refugio(s)
 
|Infraestructura=Refugio(s)
 
|TipoTrek=Ascensión Cerro
 
|TipoTrek=Ascensión Cerro
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|ComparteIdayRetorno=Ida y Retorno por la misma ruta
 
|Imágen Principal=Cerro el Plomo.JPG
 
|Imágen Principal=Cerro el Plomo.JPG
 
|ComentariosImagen=Cerro El Plomo visto desde el [[Cerro Leonera]]  
 
|ComentariosImagen=Cerro El Plomo visto desde el [[Cerro Leonera]]  
|Distancia=13,3 km desde embalse de Valle Nevado(sólo ida).
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|Distancia=26600
|Desnivel=1.900 metros
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|Primer ascenso=Gustavo Brandt y Rodolfo Luck, 1897
 
|Altitud=5424
 
|Altitud=5424
|Primer Autor=Juan Pablo Ortega
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|Latitud1=-33.317090
|KMLZ=Cerro Plomo por Piedra Numerada y Cerro Leonera.KMZ
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|Longitud1=-70.264224
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|Latitud2=-33.311019
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|Longitud2=-70.243399
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|MetrosAscenso=2239
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|MetrosDescenso=356
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|Comentarios distancia=from Portezuelo Franciscano lines blue and yellow
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|AltitudMedia=4301
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|Primer Autor=[[User:Jupa‎|Juan Pablo Ortega]]
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|m=https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1U0Wd4_CWFqUPKjdcMGosvk2SlTnuCGe2
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|KMLZ=Macizo Plomo.kmz
 
|ComentariosMapa=
 
|ComentariosMapa=
{{colores|red|Trek to the base camp}}
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{{colores|red|To El Plomo}}
 
{{colores|blue|Other routes in the area: [[Travesía_Federación_-_Cancha_de_Carreras|Federación - Cancha Carrera]]}}
 
{{colores|blue|Other routes in the area: [[Travesía_Federación_-_Cancha_de_Carreras|Federación - Cancha Carrera]]}}
 
{{colores|yellow|Ascents in the area: [[Cerro_El_Plomo|El Plomo]], [[Cerro_Leonera|Leonera]], [[Cerro_Pintor|Pintor]], [[Cerro_La_Parva|Parva]]}}
 
{{colores|yellow|Ascents in the area: [[Cerro_El_Plomo|El Plomo]], [[Cerro_Leonera|Leonera]], [[Cerro_Pintor|Pintor]], [[Cerro_La_Parva|Parva]]}}
{{colores|green|Roads}}
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{{colores|green|Motorable roads}}
 
{{colores|black|Ski lifts}}
 
{{colores|black|Ski lifts}}
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{{colores|cyan|Walking route along the ski slopes of Valle Nevado (if there is still snow)}}
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{{colores|purple|Alternative route from La Parva (longer)}}
 
|TipoDeMap=hybrid
 
|TipoDeMap=hybrid
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|Patrocinio={{andesgear}}
 
}}
 
}}
{{no confundir|Not to be confused with [[Nevado el Plomo]], a sixthousand far less visited}}
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[[File:panoramica macizo el plomo.JPG|thumb|center|1100px|Panoramic from the summit of [[Capitán del Quempo]], with Cerro Plomo and [[Nevado el Plomo]], among many others. December, 2009.]]
 
== In a Nutshell ==
 
== In a Nutshell ==
“El Plomo” is without a doubt Santiago’s most emblematic mountain and one of the most imposing of the central valley. With its grand size it can be seen from anywhere in the Santiago valley. It is the city’s great guardian. Every time you look up you can see it as the background curtain of The Andes. Sacred Mountain for the Incas and place of initiation for many mountaineers in Chile, it is definitely a “must-see” and should be visited at least once, especially by those who live in Santiago.
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[[File:Macizo_el_plomo.jpg|thumb|El Plomo massif viewed from [[Capitán del Quempo]]. In the center of the image you can see the Cepo brook, which’s ascent signifies a good stretch of the route. Looking to the north, December 2015]]
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“El Plomo” is without a doubt Santiago’s most emblematic mountain and one of the most imposing of the central valley. With its grand size it can be seen from anywhere in the Santiago valley. It is the city’s great guardian. Every time you look up you can see it as the background curtain of The Andes. Sacred Mountain for the Incas and place of initiation for many mountaineers in Chile, it is definitely a “must-see” and should be visited at least once, especially by those who live in Santiago.
 
Guaranteed:
 
Guaranteed:
 
*Live the “High Andes” experience
 
*Live the “High Andes” experience
 
*Imposing views of the central Andes and the Santiago valley
 
*Imposing views of the central Andes and the Santiago valley
*Stunning Colgante Glacier (“Hanging Glacier)
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*Stunning Colgante Glacier (“Hanging Glacier")
[[Archivo:panoramica macizo el plomo.JPG|thumb|center|1000px|Panoramic from the summit of [[Capitán del Quempo]], with Cerro Plomo and [[Nevado el Plomo]], among many others. December, 2009.]]
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==When to visit ==
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==Season ==
[[Image:Climograma_farellones.png|thumb|left|Climograph of Farellones, village close to El Plomo]]
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[[File:Climograma_farellones.png|thumb|Climograph of Farellones, village close to El Plomo]]
*'''Mountaineering''': Between November and April. Summer weekends can get crowded, so if you’re looking for a wild high mountain experience, either choose a different destination or visit on a weekday.  
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[[File:Pistas Valle Nevado2.jpg|thumb|Map of Valle Nevado ski pistes. The red circle marks the exit where the treks [[Piedra Numerada]] and El Plomo Base camp start.]]
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[[File:Perfil_de_ascenso_Cerro_El_Plomo_desde_Valle_Nevado.PNG|thumb|Perfil de ascenso Cerro El Plomo desde el máximo vehicular de Valle Nevado]]
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[[File:Piedra Numerada (5).jpg|thumb|Starting the descent from the dam. 9/9/07]]
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[[File:Piedra Numerada (2).jpg|thumb|View after the valley, 9/9/07]]
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[[File:Piedra Numerada2.jpg|thumb|Piedra Numerada from the first viewpoint. Point 2 on the map]]
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[[File:Piedra Numerada (7).jpg|thumb|Piedra Numerada. 9/9/07]]
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[[Archivo:Piedra_Numerada_por_Carlos_Hevia_Patagon_Journal.jpg|thumb|Piedra Numerada, por Carlos Hevia, Patagon Journal]]
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[[File:Piedra Numerada (9).jpg|thumb|Valle del Cepo desde Piedra Numerada. 9 de septiembre de 2007]]
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*'''Mountaineering''': Between November and April. Summer weekends can get crowded, so if you’re looking for a wild high mountain experience, either choose a different destination or visit on a weekday.  
 
*'''Ski Touring''': From June to generally the first half of October.
 
*'''Ski Touring''': From June to generally the first half of October.
[[Archivo:Mapa_acceso_olivares_por_cepo.jpg|thumb|Map of the ski resorts area. The lower green star shows Valle Nevado, the upper one La Parva]]
 
 
== Access ==
 
===By car===
 
From Santiago, take the paved road G-21 towards the ski centers and “Los Bronces” mine.  Distance is 15,8 km towards the fork that leads to the mine, measured from Terpel gas station which is located at the end of Las Condes Av (meeting ground for skiers, cyclists, and mountaineers that venture into the valley).  Take a right at the fork and continue on a very narrow paved road that abruptly ascends on closed curves.  Road protection is poor and you should drive with caution especially during the winter months.  An additional 16km on this mountain road will take you to the town of Farellones, on curve 40, 32km from Santiago.  From Farellones, it is 13km more on a road that ascends many more curves up to the 3025 AMSL of Valle Nevado hotel, where there is a spacious parking lot. 
 
===By public transportation===
 
During the ski season (mid June to the end of September), the following companies make the trip:
 
* SNOWTOURS
 
* Address: Huerfanos 502, next to Santa Lucia hill, Bellas Artes neighbourhood, near Santa Lucia (red line 1) and Bellas Artes (green line 5) metro stations
 
* Phone: (2) 2982 8200 - (2) 3216 1106 - Whatsapp: +569 7997 3170
 
* reservas@snowtours.cl
 
* Departures from: Airport, Downtown Santiago (on Huerfanos and Santa Lucia), hotels and other spots.
 
* They also do trips from the airport to downtown, vineyard tours, Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, Isla Negra and other spots. 
 
They are the cheapest and leave the earliest.  It is very easy to get to them and their meeting spots
 
* KL Adventure
 
* Address: Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Las Condes, Santiago
 
* Fono: (2) 217 91 01
 
* Departures from: Airport, Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Ski Rental.
 
They are located almost at the entrance of the road to the ski centers, service is only from the hotel. 
 
* Ski Total
 
* Address: Avda. Apoquindo 4900 Local 37-46 (Omnium building), Santiago
 
* Phone: (2) 246 68 81
 
* Departures from: Omnium building, Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Los Trapenses mall.
 
 
==Route Description==
 
You can start on this route from Valle Nevado or La Parva.  Kilometer 0 on the description (not the altitude profile) has been defined as the point where these two paths join and correspond to the dam located on Tres Puntas ski piste in Valle Nevado.
 
 
 
[[Archivo:perfil de ascenso Cerro El Plomo desde La Parva.PNG|frame|center|Profile of the ascent of Cerro El Plomo from La Parva, starting at the station known as "3.100". If you begin from the resort of La Parva (2750m) itself, add  350 meters. If your are able to drive all the way to the top, you'll start at 3.480m]]
 
 
=== Stretch 1 : Valle Nevado option - Dam ===
 
 
[[Archivo:Pistas Valle Nevado2.jpg|thumb|300px|Map of Valle Nevado ski pistes. The red circle marks the exit where the treks [[Piedra Numerada]] and El Plomo Base camp  start. ]]
 
 
 
====On the car path====
 
 
Either by foot or by 4x4, the route starts at the hotel itself.  You go on a narrow pass to the left of the hote, turn right immediately after, and take the route that ascends the mountain.  It will make a curve and continue on the left hillside.  You will find other routes that descend to the left and routes that ascend to the right, but you must continue on the same path until reaching the high part of the mountain ridge shared with the hotel.  You can also recognize it because the “El Mirador” ski lift ends in this area.  From here you must go down on the path that will take you to a small dam to the north (do not mistake for the dam you can see to the south).  Immediately after the dam you will reach a fork, from here there is a path to the right (east) that ends in the Tres Puntas rope tow lift 100 meters further.  Basically, you should follow this rope tow lift but not on this path.  To take the correct path you must turn left at the fork, advance 150 meters, cross a small creek and then continue east.  The path makes a small zigzag, moves to the valley of the Tres Puntas rope tow and continues on its hillside until reaching a great dam.  Here is where the adventure begins.
 
 
=== Stretch 1: La Parva Option - Dam ===
 
[[Archivo:Acceso_La_Parva.jpg|thumb|Map of access to Piuquenes Lagoon / Franciscano col from La Parva]]
 
 
La Parva Ski Center – Piuquenes or Franciscano lagoon
 
The route begins at La Parva ski center.  The first stretch passes through the ski pistes up to Piuquenes lagoon (which stands a little over 3,600 AMSL). 
 
To get to the top of the “Las Aguilas” ski lift from the ski centers , there are various options.
 
By Foot: Walking on the ski pistes (or on the car path) up to the end of “Las Aguilas” ski lift (3,555 AMSL)
 
By Car (November or December through May)
 
 
You must get to the highest street of La Parva (called Emillie Allais) and 100 meters after it ends, take the dirt road to the right.  This road will take you on 1.8 km of gravel in good condition up to the parking lot called “Campamento Base” (Base Camp) located at an altitude of 2.980 AMSL.  You can request the key to the gate that blocks the way further on the Base Camp area and continue by car on a dirt road in decent state up to the end of the Las Aguilas ski lift.  The key must be requested at La Parva headquarters located in the same town, next to the little church.  You must leave your ID for them to hold until you return the key.  We recommend to first call the number +56222209530.  Please keep in mind that they would be doing you a favor and it’s not their obligation. 
 
There are many forks on this road, so we recommend carrying the green route on the map.
 
 
Ski Lift
 
 
Las Aguilas ski lift works during the summer weekends.  For the 2016 season, the price of the ticket for mountaineers are as follows : Both ways for a total of $10.000 CLP,  and one way is $6.500.  More info on this on La Parva
 
It is advisable to check the dates for which you intend to visit the center, since something could happen that could drag the process of buying the ticket.  This way you can anticipate the mishap and avoid wasting precious time on a bureaucratic process.
 
 
Between the months of June and end of September, during the ski season, there are no specially priced tickets for mountaineers, so you would have to pay full price ($45.000 CLP on 2016).  You would take the Flores lift and then Las Aguilas.
 
 
The shelter at the the top of Las Aguilas lift, where these three routes lead to, is 50 meters lower than Piuquenes or Franciscano lagoon, so the lagoon is reached with just an additional 20 minutes by foot.  As a reference, consider the Falsa Parva mountain (3,999 AMSL), whose base finds both the ski lift shelter as well as the lagoon.  From the shelter you must keep walking on the car path which goes East.  After an additional 100 meters, turn left traversing a little 30 meter hill with clearly marked paths. Once the col has been reached, you can admire the Piuquenes lagoon at a very close distanace. 
 
Piuquenes Lagoon – Dam
 
===Stretch 2: Dam - Piedra Numerada===
 
 
[[Archivo:Macizo_el_plomo.jpg|thumb|600px|El Plomo massif viewed from [[Capitán del Quempo]]. In the center of the image you can see the Cepo brook, which’s ascent signifies a good stretch of the route.  Looking to the north, December 2015]]
 
 
[[Archivo:Piedra Numerada2.jpg|thumb|Piedra from the first viewpoint. Point 2 on the map]]
 
 
 
'''Meeting Point for Valle Nevado and La Parva paths'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 3.550 AMSL | Km:0''
 
 
Upon reaching this area of the dam, you must continue on the path that descends the hillside in direction to the northeast, or in other words, to the creek and green valley.
 
 
 
'''Creek (Point 2)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 3.425 AMSL | Km:1''
 
 
You will reach a small creek of crystal clear water (ok to drink), which is a good spot to fill up.  After crossing the creek, the path begins to ascend.  You must skip through rocks which during the winter will creep from under the snow.  After 1,1km and a 90m altitude difference, you will reach the highest part of the hill: a nice overlook of the Cepo valley.
 
First Lookout Point (Point 3) Altitude: 3.512 AMSL | Km:2,1
 
From this point you can clearly see the Cepo river valley and the impressive glaciers of “El Plomo” on the background.  The vegetated plateau on the Cepo river bed up the valley, belongs to “Piedra Numerada”, a very good spot for camping.  Immediately after this flat, you will see rocky walls that mark its abrupt south border.  You must continue on the path that now has a north direction and softly descends.
 
 
'''Detour to “Piedra Numerada” (Point 4)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 3.407 AMSL | Km:3,8
 
''
 
You have arrived to the wetlands of “Piedra Numerada”, a peaceful valley with plenty of water and vegetation.  If you would like to go to the camping area you must abandon the path and walk towards the center of the wetland, where you will find good camping spots.  If you wish to keep going towards “Federación” you must continue on the path with direction to the north.
 
 
Piedra Numerada from the first lookout. Point 2 on the map
 
After Piedra Numerada, the path is flat and easy to travel, you will pass some small creeks and after 800 meters, you will reach the Cepo river.
 
 
'''Cepo river crossing (Point 5)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 3.450 AMSL | Km:4,6''
 
 
You must cross the Cepo river in a place where the river is divided in two arms, which makes it easier to cross.  The river is not deep and shouldn’t be dangerous.  If you take the time to search for an easy crossing, you won’t even have to take your shoes off.  Due to the rocks of the river bed, the path fades here, but after crossing both arms you can easily find it again.  After crossing, the path switches hillside and ascends, and after 700 meters (50 vertical), you will reach the high point of a waterfall that feeds the Cepo river.
 
 
'''Waterfall and Overlook (Point 6)'''
 
''Altitude: 3.608 AMSL | Km:5,4''
 
 
From this point you can see the Cepo river in all its glory, and El Plomo and its glaciers are now seen from very close distance.  From here, the path softly ascends for 900 meters until it is interrupted by a steep slope (Point 7), the path turns towards the east and begins to ascend a small hill in a more demanding zigzag.  This will go on for 800 meters and you will have ascended 170 vertical meters after which you will reach a large and flat valley.
 
 
'''Plain (Point 8)'''
 
''Altitude: 3.930 AMSL | Km:7,1''
 
 
Upon reaching the plateau you must continue for 600 meters of easy walk with little incline.  Some small creeks cross the path, these dry at the end of summer.  The plain is interrupted by a small hill that should be ascended on its right side (north).  After 800 meters of walking (130m vertically) you will reach the area of “Federacion”, which is easily recognized by a red shelter for public use that sleeps 4 people. 
 
  
'''Federación (Point 9)'''
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{{Access to Valle Nevado Dam}}
''Altitude: 4.145 AMSL | Km:8,5''
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==Route description==
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{{Valle Nevado to Dam with snow}} 
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{{Dam - Piedra Numerada}}
  
Along with La Hoya, Federacion is one of the possible camping spots for those who venture into the summit of El Plomo.  It is located at the end of the Cepo river valley, and is protected from the wind by rock walls, La Leonera and El Plomo peaks.  One hundred meters up the valley there is a small glacier that provides water to the campsite.  It freezes during the night so we recommend filling up as soon as you reach Federacion.
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{{Piedra Numerada to Federacion}}
===Stretch 3: Ascending===
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===Federación - Summit El Plomo===
 
(Note: Starting at this point, you can also opt to climb Punta Santiago, a less ambitious goal than El Plomo, or use it as an acclimation step before attempting to reach the summit of El Plomo)
 
(Note: Starting at this point, you can also opt to climb Punta Santiago, a less ambitious goal than El Plomo, or use it as an acclimation step before attempting to reach the summit of El Plomo)
[[Archivo:Rutaelplomo.jpg|thumb|700px|
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[[File:Rutaelplomo.jpg|thumb|700px|
 
{{colores|yellow|Route of ascent}}
 
{{colores|yellow|Route of ascent}}
 
{{colores|red|Route to Piedra Numerada and Valle Nevado}}
 
{{colores|red|Route to Piedra Numerada and Valle Nevado}}
 
{{colores|blue|Route to Federación - Cancha Carrera exiting on La Parva ski center and route to Cerro Leonera}}
 
{{colores|blue|Route to Federación - Cancha Carrera exiting on La Parva ski center and route to Cerro Leonera}}
 
]]
 
]]
[[Archivo:Vista desde La Hoya.JPG|thumb|300px|Vista desde campamento alternativo La Hoya]]
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[[File:Vista desde La Hoya.JPG|thumb|Vista desde campamento alternativo La Hoya]]
[[Archivo:Refugio DAgostini.JPG|thumb|300px|D'Agostini Shelter. Photo: Juan Francisco Bustos]]
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[[File:Refugio DAgostini.JPG|thumb|De Agostini Shelter. Photo: Juan Francisco Bustos]]
[[Archivo:Valle desde Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|300px|View of Cepo Valley from the ridge]]
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[[File:Valle desde Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|View of Cepo Valley from the ridge]]
[[Archivo:Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|300px|Pirca del Indio]]
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[[File:Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|Pirca del Indio]]
[[Archivo:Glaciar Iver y Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|300px|Iver Glacier Crossing. Ice ax and crampons are a must!]]
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[[File:Glaciar Iver y Pirca del Indio.JPG|thumb|Iver Glacier Crossing. Ice ax and crampons are a must!]]
From Federacion you must leave the valley you were on, and zigzag the north hillside towards El Plomo. After 20-30 minutes on the hillside, you will reach a flat with some lagoons. This area is known as “La Hoya”.
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From Federacion you must leave the valley you were on, and zigzag the north hillside towards El Plomo. After 20-30 minutes on the hillside, you will reach a flat with some lagoons. This area is known as “La Hoya”.
  
 
'''La Hoya (Point A)'''<br>
 
'''La Hoya (Point A)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 4.292 AMSL | Km:9.1''
 
''Altitude: 4.292 AMSL | Km:9.1''
  
This is another good spot for a base camp. It has spectacular views of the Colgante (hanging) and Iver glaciers, and good access to water. You can enjoy an obstruction-free view of El Plomo. While this camp is closer to the summit of El Plomo than Federacion, it is also more exposed to the wind, altitude, and the cold. If you are not well acclimated, camping here is not advisable, and it might be better to make an additional physical effort on the day you intend to reach the summit.  
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This is another good spot for a base camp. It has spectacular views of the Colgante (hanging) and Iver glaciers, and good access to water. You can enjoy an obstruction-free view of El Plomo. While this camp is closer to the summit of El Plomo than Federacion, it is also more exposed to the wind, altitude, and the cold. If you are not well acclimated, camping here is not advisable, and it might be better to make an additional physical effort on the day you intend to reach the summit.  
  
You must continue on the right (east) of La Hoya valley. In the beginning, this route gains altitude abruptly until reaching a small ridge after 300 meters. Here the route turns towards the north, nearing the slopes of El Plomo. In this area the incline is reduced and the pace is picked up. On the left (west) you can see the Iver Glacier and La Hoya valley slightly below. 1 km after leaving La Hoya you will reach the foot of Iver Glacier’s ice wall.
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You must continue on the right (east) of La Hoya valley. In the beginning, this route gains altitude abruptly until reaching a small ridge after 300 meters. Here the route turns towards the north, nearing the slopes of El Plomo. In this area the incline is reduced and the pace is picked up. On the left (west) you can see the Iver Glacier and La Hoya valley slightly below. 1 km after leaving La Hoya you will reach the foot of Iver Glacier’s ice wall.
  
 
'''Iver Glacier Lookout Point (Point B)'''<br>
 
'''Iver Glacier Lookout Point (Point B)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 4.531 AMSL | Km:10.1''
 
''Altitude: 4.531 AMSL | Km:10.1''
  
A great overlook of the Iver and Colgante glaciers and La Hoya valley. This path turns towards the east, and begins a marked ascent on a zigzag that will continue until reaching the ridge. Here you can see D’Agostini shelter at a close distance.
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A great overlook of the Iver and Colgante glaciers and La Hoya valley. This path turns towards the east, and begins a marked ascent on a zigzag that will continue until reaching the ridge. Here you can see De Agostini shelter at a close distance.
  
'''D'Agostini Shelter (Point C)'''<br>
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'''De Agostini Shelter (Point C)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 4.620 AMSL | Km:10.5''
 
''Altitude: 4.620 AMSL | Km:10.5''
  
Wood shelter built by the “Federación de Andinismo” (federation of mountaineering) which has been recently reconditioned and can sleep a maximum of 4 people. There is no running water but usually there is snow to melt. It is exposed to the wind. It is not advisable to choose Agostini for a campsite to attempt the summit of El Plomo. It would be better to have a 1 hour and 15 minute longer summit day but with a better sleep from the night before and being less worn out from the previous day (going up carrying weight from Federacion to Agostini signifies a considerable effort). That being said, Agostini is a good spot to sleep to help acclimate for higher peaks (6 thousands).
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Wood shelter built by the “Federación de Andinismo” (federation of mountaineering) which has been recently reconditioned and can sleep a maximum of 4 people. There is no running water but usually there is snow to melt. It is exposed to the wind. It is not advisable to choose Agostini for a campsite to attempt the summit of El Plomo. It would be better to have a 1 hour and 15 minute longer summit day but with a better sleep from the night before and being less worn out from the previous day (going up carrying weight from Federacion to Agostini signifies a considerable effort). That being said, Agostini is a good spot to sleep to help acclimate for higher peaks (6 thousands).
A tiring route of loose rock begins at the shelter, with plenty of intercrossed prints and considerable incline. It is shady in the morning as it is the North face. You must ascend in direction towards the east until reaching the ridge.  
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A tiring route of loose rock begins at the shelter, with plenty of intercrossed prints and considerable incline. It is shady in the morning as it is the North face. You must ascend in direction towards the east until reaching the ridge.  
  
 
'''Ridge (Point D)'''<br>
 
'''Ridge (Point D)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 4.850 AMSL | Km:11.2''
 
''Altitude: 4.850 AMSL | Km:11.2''
  
Once on the ridge you can again enjoy the morning sun rays and enjoy the view from the heights of the valley. It is a good spot to apply sunscreen and put on your hat and sunglasses.  
+
Once on the ridge you can again enjoy the morning sun rays and enjoy the view from the heights of the valley. It is a good spot to apply sunscreen and put on your hat and sunglasses.  
Now you must change direction and head north on the ridge directly towards El Plomo. The incline is significant here but the terrain is firm and rocky. You must pass an area of rocks in the middle of the ridge on the east side (right). Due to the terrain’s rockiness, the print will begin to fade. It is intuitive to continue on the same direction as before but here the path abandones the ridge on its west face (left).  
+
Now you must change direction and head north on the ridge directly towards El Plomo. The incline is significant here but the terrain is firm and rocky. You must pass an area of rocks in the middle of the ridge on the east side (right). Due to the terrain’s rockiness, the print will begin to fade. It is intuitive to continue on the same direction as before but here the path abandones the ridge on its west face (left).  
  
 
'''Detour leaving the ridge (Point E)'''<br>
 
'''Detour leaving the ridge (Point E)'''<br>
''Altitude: 5.032 AMSL | Km:11.6
+
''Altitude: 5.032 AMSL | Km:11.6''
''
+
 
This detour is not totally clear and as many mountaineers miss this point, the path that continues on and passes it is almost more noticeable. Follow this rule: When the path begins to fade, start looking for a path on the left side of the ridge. If you make a mistake here and pass this point, it wouldn’t be so terrible as these two paths meet at Pirca del Indio, but the correct route is easier to follow.  
+
This detour is not totally clear and as many mountaineers miss this point, the path that continues on and passes it is almost more noticeable. Follow this rule: When the path begins to fade, start looking for a path on the left side of the ridge. If you make a mistake here and pass this point, it wouldn’t be so terrible as these two paths meet at Pirca del Indio, but the correct route is easier to follow.  
Having left the ridge, you must do a small traverse. You will then gain altitude on a gorge that will leave you on a plateau. You must keep going towards the glacier, and just before the glacier you will reach Pirca del indio.
+
Having left the ridge, you must do a small traverse. You will then gain altitude on a gorge that will leave you on a plateau. You must keep going towards the glacier, and just before the glacier you will reach Pirca del indio.
  
 
'''Pirca del Indio / Iver Glacier Crossing (Point F)'''<br>
 
'''Pirca del Indio / Iver Glacier Crossing (Point F)'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 5.200 AMSL | Km:12.1''
 
''Altitude: 5.200 AMSL | Km:12.1''
  
Over a stone dome there is a stone wall of considerable size that serves as protection from the wind and place to rest. Here on 1954, an expedition led by Guillermo Chacón, found a boy of 8 or 9 years of age perfectly preserved, with no signs of injury and with a peaceful face. His death dates back to 500 or 600 years ago. Freezing is what most likely caused his death. Due to the cold and layers of snow, ice, and rock the body was able to withstand the course of centuries without going through the natural decomposition. The body is currently in the National Museum of Natural History of Santiago, although it is not on exhibition. La Pirca del Indio is an excellent spot to rest and take a break before starting the last stretch of El Plomo. It is also a good place to get out your ice axe and crampons to cross the 50 meters of Iver Glacier.
+
Over a stone dome there is a stone wall of considerable size that serves as protection from the wind and place to rest. Here on 1954, an expedition led by Guillermo Chacón, found a boy of 8 or 9 years of age perfectly preserved, with no signs of injury and with a peaceful face. His death dates back to 500 or 600 years ago. Freezing is what most likely caused his death. Due to the cold and layers of snow, ice, and rock the body was able to withstand the course of centuries without going through the natural decomposition. The body is currently in the National Museum of Natural History of Santiago, although it is not on exhibition. La Pirca del Indio is an excellent spot to rest and take a break before starting the last stretch of El Plomo. It is also a good place to get out your ice axe and crampons to cross the 50 meters of Iver Glacier.
  
The crossing of Iver Glacier corresponds to the Crux, the most technical part of the route. Even though it is a narrow crossing (50 meters) with a relatively small incline and free of crevasses, there are times when the ice is very hard and smooth and not having the proper equipment (ice ax and crampons) might make the difference between falling and sliding to the point where the incline gets more pronounced. After this point you will face a 650 meter drop that will continue until reaching the level of La Hoya.
+
The crossing of Iver Glacier corresponds to the Crux, the most technical part of the route. Even though it is a narrow crossing (50 meters) with a relatively small incline and free of crevasses, there are times when the ice is very hard and smooth and not having the proper equipment (ice ax and crampons) might make the difference between falling and sliding to the point where the incline gets more pronounced. After this point you will face a 650 meter drop that will continue until reaching the level of La Hoya.
  
 
A rope and harness are unnecessary except to protect somebody that is not yet comfortable with autostopping techniques with the ice axe.
 
A rope and harness are unnecessary except to protect somebody that is not yet comfortable with autostopping techniques with the ice axe.
Línea 212: Línea 136:
 
''Altitude: 5.410 AMSL | Km:12.8''
 
''Altitude: 5.410 AMSL | Km:12.8''
  
This plateau is a good spot to put on warm clothes. The summit is very near and the wind blows strong and often. The summit is at the other end of this large plateau, so you should continue in direction to the east for 450 more meters (5-10 minutes). An iron cross marks the summit.
+
This plateau is a good spot to put on warm clothes. The summit is very near and the wind blows strong and often. The summit is at the other end of this large plateau, so you should continue in direction to the east for 450 more meters (5-10 minutes). An iron cross marks the summit.
  
 
'''Summit'''<br>
 
'''Summit'''<br>
 
''Altitude: 5.440 AMSL | Km:13.3''
 
''Altitude: 5.440 AMSL | Km:13.3''
  
From the summit you can see the entire valley of Santiago, and Leonera and Altar peaks on the foreground. You can easily distinguish the high peaks of the central mountain range.
+
From the summit you can see the entire valley of Santiago, and Leonera and Altar peaks on the foreground. You can easily distinguish the high peaks of the central mountain range.
  
 
===Return to Federación===
 
===Return to Federación===
To return to Federacion you should follow the same path in the opposite direction and THIS should take about 2 hours. You must take the same precautions crossing the glacier, specially if the ice is hard and smooth.  
+
To return to Federacion you should follow the same path in the opposite direction and THIS should take about 2 hours. You must take the same precautions crossing the glacier, specially if the ice is hard and smooth.  
 
===Return to Santiago===
 
===Return to Santiago===
 
There are two options to return to Santiago from Federacion:
 
There are two options to return to Santiago from Federacion:
 
* Go back on the same route that was described in this description (Dam – Piedra Numerada)
 
* Go back on the same route that was described in this description (Dam – Piedra Numerada)
* Go back via Cancha Carrera – Co Pintor – Falsa Parva (False Parva) described in Travesía Federación - Cancha de Carreras. A large stretch of this last option takes place on plateaus and ridges with great panoramic views. Strongly recommended!
+
* Go back via Cancha Carrera – Co Pintor – Falsa Parva (False Parva) described in Travesía Federación - Cancha de Carreras. A large stretch of this last option takes place on plateaus and ridges with great panoramic views. Strongly recommended!
 +
 
 
==Weather forecast==
 
==Weather forecast==
 
{{AccuWeatherValleMapocho}}
 
{{AccuWeatherValleMapocho}}
Línea 235: Línea 160:
 
Through La Parva, on the contrary, there is no control whatsoever.
 
Through La Parva, on the contrary, there is no control whatsoever.
  
 +
{{Horses Farellones}}
 
==Photo gallery==
 
==Photo gallery==
 
<gallery>
 
<gallery>
Archivo:Cerro_el_plomo_.JPG|Trail, by '''[http://www.joseguridi.cl/ José Guridi]'''
+
File:Cerro_el_plomo_.JPG|Trail, by '''[http://www.joseguridi.cl/ José Guridi]'''
 
El_Plomo_y_Altar_Santiago.JPG|Cerro El Plomo and [[Cerro Altar]] from Santiago.
 
El_Plomo_y_Altar_Santiago.JPG|Cerro El Plomo and [[Cerro Altar]] from Santiago.
Image:Piuquencillo_de_cumbre.jpg|Cerro El Plomo, [[Nevado Juncal]] and [[Nevado El Plomo]] from the summit of [[Piuquencillo]]. Looking north, august 2002
+
File:Piuquencillo_de_cumbre.jpg|Cerro El Plomo, [[Nevado Juncal]] and [[Nevado El Plomo]] from the summit of [[Piuquencillo]]. Looking north, august 2002
Image:Piuquencillo1.jpg|[[Cerro El Plomo]] and [[Leonera]] from [[Piuquencillo]]. August 2002
+
File:Piuquencillo1.jpg|[[Cerro El Plomo]] and [[Leonera]] from [[Piuquencillo]]. August 2002
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 
{{Trekkings Chile english}}
 
{{Trekkings Chile english}}
 
[[category:Routes in english]]
 
[[category:Routes in english]]
 +
[[Es:Cerro El Plomo]]

Revisión actual del 18:23 22 abr 2019

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Bifurcacion.jpg Not to be confused with Nevado el Plomo, a sixthousand far less visited
Plomo from the summit of Capitán del Quempo. Among many others, Nevado el Plomo is visible to the right. December 2009.


Cerro El Plomo visto desde el Cerro Leonera

__ To El Plomo
__ Other routes in the area: Federación - Cancha Carrera
__ Ascents in the area: El Plomo, Leonera, Pintor, Parva
__ Motorable roads
__ Ski lifts
__ Walking route along the ski slopes of Valle Nevado (if there is still snow)
__ Alternative route from La Parva (longer)


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Summary (editar)
Activity Montaña
Location Chile (english), Santiago (Valle Mapocho)
Scenery Atractiva
Atractions Vistas panorámicas, Glaciar, Río, Patrimonio Cultural
Duration 4 días
Effort 16.5 dopihoras
Difficulty Fácil (Ver escala)
Trail Tramos sin sendero
Signage Inexistente
Infraestructure Refugio(s)
Altitude 5424
First ascent Gustavo Brandt y Rodolfo Luck, 1897
Topology Ida y Retorno por la misma ruta
Gain/Loss (meters) +2239, -356 (±2595)
Distance (k) 26.6 (round trip)
(*) from Portezuelo Franciscano lines blue and yellow
Mean altitude 4301
Original creator Juan Pablo Ortega
Download KMZ/GPX Debes registrarte para descargar. Formulario es BREVISIMO
Para ver estos botones debes registrarte. Toma 30 segundos: es un formulario minusculo, de solo 3 campos obligatorios.


Panoramic from the summit of Capitán del Quempo, with Cerro Plomo and Nevado el Plomo, among many others. December, 2009.

In a Nutshell

El Plomo massif viewed from Capitán del Quempo. In the center of the image you can see the Cepo brook, which’s ascent signifies a good stretch of the route. Looking to the north, December 2015

“El Plomo” is without a doubt Santiago’s most emblematic mountain and one of the most imposing of the central valley. With its grand size it can be seen from anywhere in the Santiago valley. It is the city’s great guardian. Every time you look up you can see it as the background curtain of The Andes. Sacred Mountain for the Incas and place of initiation for many mountaineers in Chile, it is definitely a “must-see” and should be visited at least once, especially by those who live in Santiago. Guaranteed:

  • Live the “High Andes” experience
  • Imposing views of the central Andes and the Santiago valley
  • Stunning Colgante Glacier (“Hanging Glacier")

Season

Climograph of Farellones, village close to El Plomo
Map of Valle Nevado ski pistes. The red circle marks the exit where the treks Piedra Numerada and El Plomo Base camp start.
Perfil de ascenso Cerro El Plomo desde el máximo vehicular de Valle Nevado
Starting the descent from the dam. 9/9/07
View after the valley, 9/9/07
Piedra Numerada from the first viewpoint. Point 2 on the map
Piedra Numerada. 9/9/07
Piedra Numerada, por Carlos Hevia, Patagon Journal
Valle del Cepo desde Piedra Numerada. 9 de septiembre de 2007
  • Mountaineering: Between November and April. Summer weekends can get crowded, so if you’re looking for a wild high mountain experience, either choose a different destination or visit on a weekday.
  • Ski Touring: From June to generally the first half of October.

Access

The first section of this route can be made from Valle Nevado or from La Parva. It is described from Valle Nevado because it is much shorter if the dam can be reachead by car (from December to May). To start from La Parva, se the respective explanation.

By car

From Santiago, take the paved road G-21 towards the ski centers and “Los Bronces” mine. Distance is 15,8 km towards the fork that leads to the mine, measured from Terpel gas station which is located at the end of Las Condes Av (meeting ground for skiers, cyclists, and mountaineers that venture into the valley). Take a right at the fork and continue on a very narrow paved road that abruptly ascends on closed curves. Road protection is poor and you should drive with caution especially during the winter months. An additional 16km on this mountain road will take you to the town of Farellones, on curve 40, 32km from Santiago. From Farellones, it is 13km more on a road that ascends many more curves up to the 3025 AMSL of Valle Nevado hotel, where there is a spacious parking lot.

From Valle Nevado to the dam by car

If a 4x4 vehicle is available, a permit to drive along the ski area can be asked for. Beyond the barrier, at the beginning of the ski slopes, a dirt road starts climbing right in front of the hotel. After a curve it goes along the left slope of the hill. There will be a road that goes down to the left and another one that goes up to the right, but you must keep driving on the one you have been following until reaching the upper part of the ridge that extends to the hotel. This point is also distinguishable by the end of El Mirador lift. From here head down eastward till you reach a small dam, by Las Ballicas station. Once there, start climbing again along the long road that ascends northward until the second dam. Park a couple of meters beyond the dam, the road to the north ends.

By public transportation

During the ski season (mid June to the end of September), the following companies make the trip:

  • SNOWTOURS
  • Address: Huerfanos 502, next to Santa Lucia hill, Bellas Artes neighbourhood, near Santa Lucia (red line 1) and Bellas Artes (green line 5) metro stations
  • Phone: (2) 2982 8200 - (2) 3216 1106 - Whatsapp: +569 7997 3170
  • reservas@snowtours.cl
  • Departures from: Airport, Downtown Santiago (on Huerfanos and Santa Lucia), hotels and other spots.
  • They also do trips from the airport to downtown, vineyard tours, Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, Isla Negra and other spots.

They are the cheapest and leave the earliest. It is very easy to get to them and their meeting spots

  • KL Adventure
  • Address: Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Las Condes, Santiago
  • Fono: (2) 217 91 01
  • Departures from: Airport, Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Ski Rental.

They are located almost at the entrance of the road to the ski centers, service is only from the hotel.

  • Ski Total
  • Address: Avda. Apoquindo 4900 Local 37-46 (Omnium building), Santiago
  • Phone: (2) 246 68 81
  • Departures from: Omnium building, Santa Isabel Supermarket Cantagallo, Los Trapenses mall.

Route description

Valle Nevado Hotel - Dam (if it can't be driven)

Summer

The first part of hiking route is different than the motorable road, because it avoids the ascent to Cerro Mirador, and hence is described below.

By foot, instead of taking the road at the left of the slope, advance along the road that ascends straight facing the slope, keeping the wooden fences at your immediate left. At 3150m there will be a bifurcation: take the right. It will go down a few meters. The road starts to progressively bend to the east, in an area almost flat. You will reach a small dam (different to the two described in the access section). Circle the dam along its right, and then carry on to the north. From then onwards, you will walk along a pedestrian trail, which resulted from the construction of a pipe. Following this trail you will Las Ballicas station. From there, follow the same road described above, all the way to the dam on top. Only at the beginning take the shortcut straight along the bottom of the valley instead of walking the ample curve of the motorable road.

Winter

Take the lift El Mirador. It will get you to the ridge that links to the valley located to the east. Ski down the gentle ‘’El Trote’’ along the slope till the base of the lift Tres Puntas. This second lift will get you to 3667m. Ski down ‘’Vals’’ and in the vicinity of the dam take your right to start your way outbound.

Dam - Piedra Numerada

Meeting Point for Valle Nevado and La Parva paths
Altitude: 3.550 AMSL | Km:0

Upon reaching this area of the dam, you must continue on the path that descends the hillside in direction to the northeast, or in other words, to the creek and green valley.

Creek (Point 2)
Altitude: 3.425 AMSL | Km:1

You will reach a small creek of crystal clear water (ok to drink), which is a good spot to fill up. After crossing the creek, the path begins to ascend. You must skip through rocks which during the winter will creep from under the snow. After 1,1km and a 90m altitude difference, you will reach the highest part of the hill: a nice overlook of the Cepo valley. First Lookout Point (Point 3) Altitude: 3.512 AMSL | Km:2,1 From this point you can clearly see the Cepo river valley and the impressive glaciers of “El Plomo” on the background. The vegetated plateau on the Cepo river bed up the valley, belongs to “Piedra Numerada”, a very good spot for camping. Immediately after this flat, you will see rocky walls that mark its abrupt south border. You must continue on the path that now has a north direction and softly descends.

Detour to “Piedra Numerada” (Point 4)
Altitude: 3.407 AMSL | Km:3,8 You have arrived to the wetlands of “Piedra Numerada”, a peaceful valley with plenty of water and vegetation. If you would like to go to the camping area you must abandon the path and walk towards the center of the wetland, where you will find good camping spots.

Piedra Numerada - Federación

After Piedra Numerada, the path is flat and easy to travel, you will pass some small creeks and after 800 meters, you will reach the Cepo river.

Cepo river crossing (Point 5)
Altitude: 3.450 AMSL | Km:4,6

You must cross the Cepo river in a place where the river is divided in two arms, which makes it easier to cross. The river is not deep and shouldn’t be dangerous. If you take the time to search for an easy crossing, you won’t even have to take your shoes off. Due to the rocks of the river bed, the path fades here, but after crossing both arms you can easily find it again. After crossing, the path switches hillside and ascends, and after 700 meters (50 vertical), you will reach the high point of a waterfall that feeds the Cepo river.

Waterfall and Overlook (Point 6) Altitude: 3.608 AMSL | Km:5,4

From this point you can see the Cepo river in all its glory, and El Plomo and its glaciers are now seen from very close distance. From here, the path softly ascends for 900 meters until it is interrupted by a steep slope (Point 7), the path turns towards the east and begins to ascend a small hill in a more demanding zigzag. This will go on for 800 meters and you will have ascended 170 vertical meters after which you will reach a large and flat valley.

Plain (Point 8) Altitude: 3.930 AMSL | Km:7,1

Upon reaching the plateau you must continue for 600 meters of easy walk with little incline. Some small creeks cross the path, these dry at the end of summer. The plain is interrupted by a small hill that should be ascended on its right side (north). After 800 meters of walking (130m vertically) you will reach the area of “Federacion”, which is easily recognized by a red shelter for public use that sleeps 4 people.

Federación (Point 9) Altitude: 4.145 AMSL | Km:8,5

Along with La Hoya, Federacion is one of the possible camping spots for those who venture into the summit of El Plomo. It is located at the end of the Cepo river valley, and is protected from the wind by rock walls, La Leonera and El Plomo peaks. One hundred meters up the valley there is a small glacier that provides water to the campsite. It freezes during the night so we recommend filling up as soon as you reach Federación.

Federación - Summit El Plomo

(Note: Starting at this point, you can also opt to climb Punta Santiago, a less ambitious goal than El Plomo, or use it as an acclimation step before attempting to reach the summit of El Plomo)

__ Route of ascent
__ Route to Piedra Numerada and Valle Nevado
__ Route to Federación - Cancha Carrera exiting on La Parva ski center and route to Cerro Leonera
Vista desde campamento alternativo La Hoya
De Agostini Shelter. Photo: Juan Francisco Bustos
View of Cepo Valley from the ridge
Pirca del Indio
Iver Glacier Crossing. Ice ax and crampons are a must!

From Federacion you must leave the valley you were on, and zigzag the north hillside towards El Plomo. After 20-30 minutes on the hillside, you will reach a flat with some lagoons. This area is known as “La Hoya”.

La Hoya (Point A)
Altitude: 4.292 AMSL | Km:9.1

This is another good spot for a base camp. It has spectacular views of the Colgante (hanging) and Iver glaciers, and good access to water. You can enjoy an obstruction-free view of El Plomo. While this camp is closer to the summit of El Plomo than Federacion, it is also more exposed to the wind, altitude, and the cold. If you are not well acclimated, camping here is not advisable, and it might be better to make an additional physical effort on the day you intend to reach the summit.

You must continue on the right (east) of La Hoya valley. In the beginning, this route gains altitude abruptly until reaching a small ridge after 300 meters. Here the route turns towards the north, nearing the slopes of El Plomo. In this area the incline is reduced and the pace is picked up. On the left (west) you can see the Iver Glacier and La Hoya valley slightly below. 1 km after leaving La Hoya you will reach the foot of Iver Glacier’s ice wall.

Iver Glacier Lookout Point (Point B)
Altitude: 4.531 AMSL | Km:10.1

A great overlook of the Iver and Colgante glaciers and La Hoya valley. This path turns towards the east, and begins a marked ascent on a zigzag that will continue until reaching the ridge. Here you can see De Agostini shelter at a close distance.

De Agostini Shelter (Point C)
Altitude: 4.620 AMSL | Km:10.5

Wood shelter built by the “Federación de Andinismo” (federation of mountaineering) which has been recently reconditioned and can sleep a maximum of 4 people. There is no running water but usually there is snow to melt. It is exposed to the wind. It is not advisable to choose Agostini for a campsite to attempt the summit of El Plomo. It would be better to have a 1 hour and 15 minute longer summit day but with a better sleep from the night before and being less worn out from the previous day (going up carrying weight from Federacion to Agostini signifies a considerable effort). That being said, Agostini is a good spot to sleep to help acclimate for higher peaks (6 thousands). A tiring route of loose rock begins at the shelter, with plenty of intercrossed prints and considerable incline. It is shady in the morning as it is the North face. You must ascend in direction towards the east until reaching the ridge.

Ridge (Point D)
Altitude: 4.850 AMSL | Km:11.2

Once on the ridge you can again enjoy the morning sun rays and enjoy the view from the heights of the valley. It is a good spot to apply sunscreen and put on your hat and sunglasses. Now you must change direction and head north on the ridge directly towards El Plomo. The incline is significant here but the terrain is firm and rocky. You must pass an area of rocks in the middle of the ridge on the east side (right). Due to the terrain’s rockiness, the print will begin to fade. It is intuitive to continue on the same direction as before but here the path abandones the ridge on its west face (left).

Detour leaving the ridge (Point E)
Altitude: 5.032 AMSL | Km:11.6

This detour is not totally clear and as many mountaineers miss this point, the path that continues on and passes it is almost more noticeable. Follow this rule: When the path begins to fade, start looking for a path on the left side of the ridge. If you make a mistake here and pass this point, it wouldn’t be so terrible as these two paths meet at Pirca del Indio, but the correct route is easier to follow. Having left the ridge, you must do a small traverse. You will then gain altitude on a gorge that will leave you on a plateau. You must keep going towards the glacier, and just before the glacier you will reach Pirca del indio.

Pirca del Indio / Iver Glacier Crossing (Point F)
Altitude: 5.200 AMSL | Km:12.1

Over a stone dome there is a stone wall of considerable size that serves as protection from the wind and place to rest. Here on 1954, an expedition led by Guillermo Chacón, found a boy of 8 or 9 years of age perfectly preserved, with no signs of injury and with a peaceful face. His death dates back to 500 or 600 years ago. Freezing is what most likely caused his death. Due to the cold and layers of snow, ice, and rock the body was able to withstand the course of centuries without going through the natural decomposition. The body is currently in the National Museum of Natural History of Santiago, although it is not on exhibition. La Pirca del Indio is an excellent spot to rest and take a break before starting the last stretch of El Plomo. It is also a good place to get out your ice axe and crampons to cross the 50 meters of Iver Glacier.

The crossing of Iver Glacier corresponds to the Crux, the most technical part of the route. Even though it is a narrow crossing (50 meters) with a relatively small incline and free of crevasses, there are times when the ice is very hard and smooth and not having the proper equipment (ice ax and crampons) might make the difference between falling and sliding to the point where the incline gets more pronounced. After this point you will face a 650 meter drop that will continue until reaching the level of La Hoya.

A rope and harness are unnecessary except to protect somebody that is not yet comfortable with autostopping techniques with the ice axe. After crossing the glacier you can put your equipment away since you won’t need it until the return. The path continues to ascend on an easy incline with a northwest direction for about 20 minutes until reaching some towers that appear to be the Summit.

Final Ascent (Point G)
Altitude: 5.364 AMSL | Km:12.7

The path now turns towards the east and presents a lose rock terrain for 10-15 minutes (last obstacle) which will leave you on the plateau of the summit.

False Peaks (Point H)
Altitude: 5.410 AMSL | Km:12.8

This plateau is a good spot to put on warm clothes. The summit is very near and the wind blows strong and often. The summit is at the other end of this large plateau, so you should continue in direction to the east for 450 more meters (5-10 minutes). An iron cross marks the summit.

Summit
Altitude: 5.440 AMSL | Km:13.3

From the summit you can see the entire valley of Santiago, and Leonera and Altar peaks on the foreground. You can easily distinguish the high peaks of the central mountain range.

Return to Federación

To return to Federacion you should follow the same path in the opposite direction and THIS should take about 2 hours. You must take the same precautions crossing the glacier, specially if the ice is hard and smooth.

Return to Santiago

There are two options to return to Santiago from Federacion:

  • Go back on the same route that was described in this description (Dam – Piedra Numerada)
  • Go back via Cancha Carrera – Co Pintor – Falsa Parva (False Parva) described in Travesía Federación - Cancha de Carreras. A large stretch of this last option takes place on plateaus and ridges with great panoramic views. Strongly recommended!

Weather forecast

Permits | Fees

Fortunately, still no permit or fee is required to know the area or climb its summits. However, Valle Nevado demands to inform in advance of the visit, in order to keep a log:

  • E-mail: lsepulveda@vallenevado.com
  • Phone: +56224777000
  • Free.

Through La Parva, on the contrary, there is no control whatsoever.

Hire mules and/or horses

Horse riding to Glaciar La Paloma. From La Lata, looking north, February 2010. By Pablo Barañao
  • Luis Polanco Leal: 02-28236973 - +56990873117. Los Refugios 16573, Lo Barnechea
  • Javier Morales: +56992918057
  • Marco Berrioz: +56993478505
  • Luis Patricio Quiroz Robles, alias "Pato-Lucho": 3215886, +56997790735 y +56992660628
  • Javier Pinto: +56990973965

Prices are in the area of CLP$25000 (US$ 34.7 as of September 2019) per animal per day. On top of that, add the value of the arriero (owner).

Photo gallery


To see the full list of 414 routes of trekking and mountain climbing in Chile in spanish, click here
Trekking Atacama

ENG:El Morro 

Trekking Norte Chico
Valles Centrales.PNG Santiago Area.PNG Valle del Aconcagua.PNG Trekkings:
Cumbres:
Valle del Mapocho.PNG Trekkings:
Cumbres:

ENG:Cerro El Plomo 

Cajon del Maipo.png Trekkings:
Cumbres:
Cordillera de la Costa.PNG Trekkings:


Cumbres:
Trekking Rancagua
Trekking San Fernando
Trekking Curicó
Trekking Talca
Trekking Linares
Trekking Chillán
Trekking Concepción
Trekking Los Angeles
Trekking Zona lacustre Trekking Temuco
Trekking Valdivia
Trekking Osorno
Trekking Puerto Montt
Trekking Chiloé
Trekking Patagonia Trekking Chaitén
Trekking Coyhaique
Trekking Cochrane y Villa O`Higgins
Trekking Puerto Natales
Trekking Punta Arenas
Trekking Tierra del Fuego
Trekking Isla de Pascua
Trekking Archipiélago Juan Fernández