4607
ediciones
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Página redirigida a GPT06 (Descabezado)
|Actividad=Trekking
|País=Chile
|CiudadesChile=TalcaCuricó|BellezaEscenica=|Atractivos=Vistas panorámicasImpresionante|Duracion=días1 día
|RequiereHabilidadTrek=No requiere
|Sendero=Siempre Claro
|Señalizacion=Inexistente
|Infraestructura=Inexistente
|ComparteIdayRetorno=Cruce|Distancia=86500|MetrosAscenso=4258|MetrosDescenso=4372|AltitudMedia=|Primer Autor=[[user:Jandudeck|Jan Dudeck]]|Imágen Principal=10 Greater Patagonian Trail, Volcan Descabezado.jpg|ComentariosImagen=Towards Azufre hot springs|KMLZ=GPT06 - Volcán Descabezado.kmz|m=https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1ymKMNEgUU8XHznjXq__oEx7hlT0wiOI1Circuito
|TipoDeMap=HYBRID
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{{Draft}}
[[File:18 Greater Patagonian Trail, Volcan Descabezado.PNG|thumb|1100px|center|In the huge ash field]]
|ComentariosImagen=Towards Azufre hot springs
|KMLZ=GPT06 - Volcán Descabezado.kmz
|m=https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1ymKMNEgUU8XHznjXq__oEx7hlT0wiOI1
|TipoDeMap=HYBRID
|ComentariosMapa=
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{{Table all GPTs}}
==Season Section Log, Recent Alerts and Suggestions==
Drinking the water of the hot springs is not recommended because it can upset your stomach. Better take fresh water from the river or a cold spring nearby.
When climbing the Descabezado Grande take plenty of water from the base camp in particular if you plan to spend one night higher up. You may refill your supplies with snow near the summit.
Our last section on the GPT for this year! We started in Vilches Alto with the option 06-05 because we rented horses with the arriero Jose Lopez. The beginning is placed in the Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay, which requires a permit to go until the Volcan. The entrance fee is also 7k pp. We finished our first day at Camp, CONAF {06-05} [10.2/1158]. I believe we mostly followed the GPS track.
On Day 3, we started the ascent at 2am with our headlights. 6h30 later we were on the top, with the morning lights rewarding us and stunning landscape. The ascent was extremely tiresome (sand material), as always with volcanos, and it was very cold but the crater and the views were very worth it. After a breakfast at the top, the descent, mostly running, took us about 2h. We rested for the rest of day at Banos del Blanquillo and even got a sopapilla making class with Umberto.
Day 5 - Bus from Molina Laguna los Hornitos - 20km - +900m/-900mAnother nice day, passing next to El Radal Laguna Caracol. The descent from the pass is a bit annoying if you didnt follow the track (off season and weekdays = only one bus at 5pm in Molina that stops in El Radalas we did). Weekend So, advice : it goes directly to Parque Ingles follow the RR and go down on your right. The Laguna is very dry, just enough to have a bath. Hard to maintain the schedule may also be different)pitch of the tent in the dry dirt.
Day 6 - Hitchhiked from Los Cipreses - 15km - +100m/-1000mLast short day to end this beautiful section. The gravel road is a bit boring but passing pickup are proposing you to get you down to the main road. Here, only one bus at 7am. And a little shop selling ice cream, chips and drinks. We hitchiked to El Radal Colorado where plenty of buses are going down to Parque InglesTalca for 2 000 CLP (+ 400 CLP per bag)
24/01 - The day after, I had to register to CONAF. Office opening at 8:30 am. Entrance fee = 6000 CLPSome people (5 or 6) were going to El Bolson for the day but after Laguna Las Animas, there was absolutely nobody till the end !/01 / RR + Descabezado SOBO / Martial :
First trip 6 days on GPT being a wonderfully intense experience ! Lunar landscapes, silent and remote, few but great people. No particular difficulty.Started park ingles with a mandatory 7000peso night at quiet camping near the river and bought ticket for Bolsón overnight 8$. Finally did not stay at Bolson a half day walk from entrance and camped in Laguna de las Animas instead. Great spot for Condors watching. After that follow Will’s advice and put on your mandatory gaiters till the end of the section ! + Walking on sand can be tough for the ankle. Don’t resist and don’t do too much !! Learned it the painfull way.. Trail visible but don’t get confused at termas Azufres especially if you try the (very) hot pools ! RR way is up the valley. Camp with water possible before the pass. The way down called « la Calle » is beautifull sandy dune remote desert. Exceptional. Aimed for Blanquillo refugio aka best basecamp for Descabezado intent. Meet Umberto the arriero at the hut and ask him where the termal pool and the drinking water are. He may be offended if you don’t show up and is a nice generous guy ! Also had a Chilean horse riding group intended the Descabezado so were a nice bunch by the camp fire. As weather window was fine, I decided to try a high camp in order to preserve weak foot from a very long ascent (10h). Took plenty of water as they are only glaciar dirty patches up there and aimed for Descabezado to Cerra Azul osm trail just as Nat and Tomas did (so i could have a chance to summit both also). Finally chose not to cross the nasty glaciar but found a very well sheltered highcamp here (- Still 35.60569, -70.76147). Incredible sunset ! Not advisable in case of rain coming (a storm was growing in Argentina so stayed prepared for an emergency descent). Next day summited Descabezado at 11AM with no wind ideal conditions. Dive your front foot flat in sand just like snow climb when you go beyond it gets to steep ! Nice ski descent sensations straight to the 2300 meters hightermas for a well deserved rest at the termas ! Also met Carlos a local climbing half way up so we would share joy later at the camp :).Exit through RR is also nice but regreted haven’t camped here (-35.67102, -70.83649) for there was some playfull trouts to catch with my survival fishing kit !Beautiful vew from the pass to sandyland and then landscape changes and recommend OH variant C descending (less overgrown). Trail not so visible till laguna los hornos witch i climbed volcano to enjoy the crater caldera. After that descent to los Cipreses is kind of boring and hot so was definitely happy to find a camping by the bridge after the gate with lovely Victorina and her family here (-35.81524, -70.83224). They have been incredibly carring, fed me and brought me to the termas caves (also worth it) in El Medano !
*16/01/23- Mini market where you can find basic food (eggs, spaghetti, chocolate ...) in Las Termas El Medano25/01/23 / Natalie & Tomáš/ OH 06-02 & 06-03 NOBO / Laguna Maule to Vilches w/ volcans/ 10days
Went up and around the crater of Descabozado Chico in the morning which I highly recommend. The crater is easy to walk around and gives an amazing 360 experience. The climb up is tedious but non-dangerous scree that makes for a super fast decent. Make sure you have enough water because water is scarce there. I saw a waterfall on the NE side the lake but did not go to it, Tomáš got water somewhere off trail around here (-35.51226, -70.65626) and I drank out of the next lake -35.52036, -70.65873 (questionable, but nothing happened to me).
From the lake the next pass begins and I stupidly made Tomáš and I carry 5L of water up it because I did not think there would be water on the south side (both of us overlooking the river indicated on the map)...I was wrong, no water high up but lots of water down low. For the pass we opted not to follow the route because it was thick steep sand so we instead climbed a more solid ridge here (-35.52506, -70.66854). Tomáš went to continue up Vulcan Colorado and I boringly traversed to the normal pass and enjoyed a very fun sand ski down the south side. The Vulcan is a steep but not technical hike up, the crater can be walked around with a steep but fun descent on the other side in SW direction. This pass would be very tiresome climbing up due to sand. If you are coming from the opposite direction and do not trust the lagoon water then you should aim for (-35.51226, -70.65626) or bring water.
I drew the route on my photos of the pass if anyone wants them. Otherwise here is my description of our route.
This is turning into a novel so I will keep this short. We left our tent in place and set off early to do Descabezado and Azul as a day trip. Descabezado was straightforward, it seems the trail will change slightly every year depending on who makes the tracks (neither the route in oSM or GPT seem to follow the actual trail from about 2600 to 3300). If wanting to make the true summit it looks like you have to go down into the crater, cross the glacier and approach it from the other side. Coming down Descabezado was very fast but we made a huge mistake and left the GPT trail to follow the other osm route that heads east then west called "Descabezado Grande - Quizapu - cerro Azul".
From our camp in the ravine we headed CC and then onto the trail that lead to the puesto at basecamp Blancquillo and from then on we were on a good trail. While walking down we opted to stay in sandals and just walk in the river, it was refreshing. We didn't have clean water until the valley bottom at the CONAF camp (valley El venado) where there was also lots of pear trees and yellow plum-like trees. Many people there (first people seen). We made camp at the river before the pass (Mirador del valle del venado) but the walk from the CONAF camp until then was slower than expected because it was along a river bed with confusing tracks.
Great trip, beautiful views and details and just the right amount of challenge.
I got to Parque Inglés from Santiago de Chile by taking a train to Curico (advice: if you want to travel by train, buy a ticket online at least 2 days in advance as it books out quickly). From Curico I took a blue collectivo to Molina and then a bus to Parque Ingles.
On the first hike day hopped the gate to the park at 7:00. No one was there so no issues. I hiked to Thermas de Azufre. It was a very long day. There is no shade at all after El Bolson. I made a provisional shade using my tent’s footprint during lunchbreaks. Once I arrived to the Azufre hotsprings, a few arrieros were there. I decided to camp further up the river.
On the fourth day I walked through the gate with the security guard. I also met a number of the power station workers and all were friendly. We waved at each other. The guard at the gate was nice, took my passport number and name. Once at the shop I found it was closed (9am). I needed to get to El Medano to join GPT07 and decided to continue hiking through Los Alamos. It might have been to early (10am) as also the almacén in Los Alamos was closed. The road after Los Almacén was uneventful and a bit sketchy at places, so I forded the river at the “bridge” waypoint after Los Alamos to get to the main road and hitchike to El Medáno. Got a ride in approx 20 min. El Medáno is a great base - the thermals are nice and there is an electricity socket next to the toilets. They have shade for the tent too. There is also a restaurant with filling foods and a small shop.
There is were some geysers shooting up from the muddy riverbank near the gpx track so I took a small tienda with coke and crisps before entering wider route around. An arriero also told me to take a main road from Los Cipress. If you continue by main road toward El Medano there is restaurant Cordillera where we refueled again. Accomodation in El Medanotrail higher up along the dunes so I followed that to the ford. The ford looked tough so I will edit with ressuply options laterkept walking 2ish km along the other side until I could easily hop across. But it was slow going, probably not worth it.
* 2022- Bus from Molina to El Radal (off season and weekdays = only one bus at 5pm in Molina that stops in El Radal. Weekend : it goes directly to Parque Ingles and the schedule may also be different)Dec-20 / SOBO / RR / 2 days / Martin & Helena
*14. - Still snow when you go beyond the 2300 meters high16. Dec 2022 / Anna&Christopher / SOBO, Parque Inglés - Los Cipreses
* 20 to 25th January 2022 / Carlos / GPT06 RR SOBO
Route: Parque Inglés - El Bolsón (Colmillo del Diablo summit) - Termas del Azufre - Termas del Blanquillo - Laguna Caracol - First bus stop on CH115 road.
From Termas del Azufre climbing to the pass I followed a faint track on the steep loose slope instead of crossing at the first river ford. After a few hundred meters the track takes you to a flat wide rocky area (just before the slope becomes impossibly steep), where you can very easily ford the river (I didn't even get my feet wet).
The five nights we just spent in a tent was the longest stretch we have ever gone without a decent bed on a hike. We skipped Radal, Laguna Mondaca and Termas de Medano, but still hiked in 6 days what others did in 3-4. We're basically easing into the GPT, gaining some fitness and experience before taking on the harder challenges.
- There really is no shade after El Bolsòn. Either you make your own (e.g., adapting your tent to not trap heat) or you dress like a Touareg (loose clothing fully blocking the sun). For us, this was the hardest to deal with. We got up early but often stopped hiking at 13:00, enjoying the lakes or even just sitting down doing nothing that takes energy.
- Laguna Hornitos is drying up and hence less beautiful than the other lakes. Maybe it's better to camp at the start of the Hornitos plateau (SOBO, so north entry) as the area is flat and there is reasonably clean running water there.
* 26/12 2021 to 04/01 2022 Section 6 and 7 (option) Sobo 9 days
From Parque Inglés to the entrance of Reserva Achibueno
Buy your ticket online for “El Bolsón” on the CONAF website and get to the trailhead before 3pm
4hrs hike to El Bolsón, a great place with waterfall, great views, nice camping spots, hikers
TO CHECK: Bus from Molina to Parque Ingles leaves at 9 am (not positive) on week-ends and holidays
Easy hitch from Radal to Parque Ingles coz lots of campers going there on week-ends
Be careful a ranger told me the park closes on Mondays
It took me around 4 days from Parque Siete Tazas Park entrance to the road Q115 (Central Cipreses)
From Road 115 I hitched to a village by Colbún lake where I resupplied : good supermarkets (a little on the expensive side), food truck , pastry shop
I didn't like Altos de Lircay NP : after El Bolson (4 hrs in) no fucking shade for 3 days and an half except that of a shelter a little off trail, blazing sun all day, sand sand sand, I found the place so inhospitable, monotonous sights : sand dunes for ever, quite some struggling pedalling in the soft sand, plus I had no gaiters (stupid me) and low heels shoes so that was a bummer. However the place is super special, feels like on the moon (beautiful pictures) and I can understand why many love it
Some “hot springs” are actually just luke and others just a hole or boiling hot (I added these informations to the track and waypoints I sent to Jan Dudek) so don't be like me fantasizing all day on that fantastic bath you will get or wait for Jan's update (thanks so so much for all you do mate).
After resupplying I hitched on option 7 XXX all the way the Mellado cañon (really nice, by the river all the time), communities. After hiking South from Carizales (which has a very limited “store”) I was short on time and food and realized bare landscapes over the tree line were not my cup of tea (I prefer hiking below 1700 m in this part of Patagonia) so I left RR and took another option all the way to the West to Reserva Achibueno which I really enjoyed : great landscapes, lakes, rivers and met some cool hikers and fishermen
* 09 - 12 December 2021, SOBO, Vera & James
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (9).jpg|thumb|GPT06 - The day after, I had to register to CONAFVolcán Descabezado]][[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (5). Office opening at 8jpg|miniaturadeimagen|Greater Patagonian Trail]][[Archivo:30 amGreater Patagonian Trail (17). Entrance fee = 6000 CLPjpg|thumb|[[Cerro Azul]].]]Some people [[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (11).jpg|thumb|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 6]]*Start Date: December 24, 2019*Section: GPT 5 or + 6) were going Southbound*Duration: 7 days*Name/Alias: Ian Hikes + Tobias*Overview: So, I decided to El Bolson combine GPT sections 5 and 6 in order to avoid a 30k out and back resupply section into parque ingles. I thought this was a good decision for me and really enjoyed being out there for a week. In my opinion this was the day hardest section of the GPT in between sections GPT 01-10. I went the first 5 days without seeing another person which I thought was quite cool. So, these two sections are quite remote, and you are way out there in the mountains. There was also some pretty intense river crossing in “GPT Section 5” that I found to be manageable (keep in mind I’m 185cm and have lots of thru hiking experience.) but after Laguna Las Animasstill a little difficult. The rivers were also very dark and murky which made it hard to see where you would step. There was also an improvised bridge crossing the Colorado River that I used, and thought was safe to use. These two sections are dominated by a volcanic profile with much of the route on ash and volcanic rock. Most of the route is very exposed and there are not many trees or vegetation that grow in the volcanic ash/rocks. There was absolutely nobody till plenty of water with springs coming out of the end !hills everywhere and then disappearing into the sand.*Difficulties: It was slow going walking thru the sand, especially when hiking vertically. Exposure to the sun. River crossings. Isolation and remoteness. Hiking up and down lose rock and scree fields.*Highlights: Hot Springs. Great views of the volcanic region. Mountain Lakes. Sunrise and Sunsets were epic with the landscape. * Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com
*2020- Be careful for the last pass Jan-23 Shn0rhelez/ Parque Ingles to El Medano southbound/main route ... 7 days duration(2 nights spent on laguna Las HornitosAnimas)...section passable...Strong sun, a lot of snow at no shadow after the top park... Gaiters strongly recommended...the SUBsection between termas del azufre and it makes it impossible to follow second ford Before the GPS track to go downpass (2700m) is full with water... I found my way on personal apinion is the left when you face the valley and then got back to the GPS trackbackpack weight can be minimized... Good luck!
2020- No problem Jan-09 / Bruno & Martin / RR SOBO /Parque Inglés to go out from the mineEl Medano5 days for this amazing section. ActuallyWe started in Parque Inglés in Radal 7 Tazas National Park. Had to wait for one more day because of limited hiking permits towards El Bolsón. 80 daily permits allowed and delivered at 8:30 in the morning, workers I met to be minded on my way weekends when the park is full. Followed Regular Route Laguna Las Ánimas, Azufre Hotsprings, Descabezado base camp, Laguna Caracol and then down to Los Cipreses suggestedto drop me by car to . Cold section and bad weather towards the main roadend, some rain and freezing wind. The guard was just smiling when he saw me Had to camp in Laguna Caracol waiting for the car storm to pass and when I told him I was hikinghike the last pass. The use of lightweight gaiters is advised for keeping the sand out of your shoes.
2019-Dec-25 / Tom & Maddie / RR SOBO / Parque Ingles to El Medano
3 days. Very beautiful (and exposed) section. Lots of water. The track from Los Cipreses to El Medano suffered from a few landslides meaning the route was slower than anticipated. I would consider taking the road next time as there is no loss of scenery. We resupplied in El Medano by basically buying all the food at the tienda (60000 CP for food for two people for the next section). Selection was good enough
2019-Dec-18 / Tyler & America / Regular route from Vilches Alto
- Mini market where you can find basic food (eggs, spaghetti, chocolate ...) in Las Termas El Medano
07/02/20- Arnaud- Gpt section 6
4 days - North to South
Amazing but hard section with a lot of denivelation.
As we did not walk the section 5, we took the bus from Molina to Parque Ingles-7 Tazas (many buses, 4-5 buses per day). We registered to the Conaf Office and paid the entrance fee 6000 clp for foreigners. They gave us a mail adress so that we can announce our exit of the parque, to check the security.
We walked the first 11km to the campspot El Bolson. It costs 4000 clp per person but has no interest. As the zone is protected, it is possible to freecamp only after el Bolson, before, it is prohibited.
The Laguna Las Animas is very very beautiful and is welcome for a bath with the heat of this season.
Then the paso las animas is easy and ashes are fun for downhills!
We met nobody on the trail after el Bolson. So great! Except at one spot with termas with full of chilenos there.
We lacked a bit of water at the laguna el Caracol but found 3kms further (just before the strong uphill) a source with drinkable water.
No problem then to exit los cypress. We hitchhiked on the road with workers until the road to los Medanos.
We stayed one day in los termas de los Medanos, at the camping and exit quickly (too many noise, people). The water is hot and nice after a hard section like this one.
We resupplied at los termas (with pasta, arros, pancito, manjar). No gas available there.
* 12 Feb 2020 Frank 2.5 days Southbound.
At Parque Ingles I registered with Conaf, they record your route & where you will camp. Deregistered by email later. Easy 3 hour walk to El Bolson, lots of people camping there but they don't go any further. Took optional route to Laguna Manantial. At 2160M there is a small meadow & stream, this is last water & last camp before the lake. You go over a pass @ 2560M then drop 80M to the lake.
Termas Blanquillo were only tepid. Camped on a small beach @ S end of Laguna de Los Hornos. The lake is nearly dried out, only a little semi stagnant water left. Best to carry water in from one of the streams a little above the lake. Last 11KM are on dirt roads, you could hitch easily if you want. Met 2 security guards, they were both friendly, no access problems if you are Southbound. Small campsite @ shop on way out. Amazing section, some tough uphill on sand but scenery is like Mars. Definitely use small gaiters or you will be emptying sand out of your shoes every 10 mins.
==Summary Table==
==Resupply==
You need to carry all the food for the entire trail. There is no food supply after Parque Ingles. If you meet arrieros at one of the Puestos you may ask for some goat or lamb meet but if you are not ready to take an entire or at least half an animal they may be reluctant to sell.
Refill your water supply at the marked river crossings and the camps. In between these waypoints your will find only ocasinally some trinking trickling water because water trickles away easily into the volcanic soil.
===Resupply Town===
===Access to Start===
The trail starts in the tiny village Radal near the cascade "Siete Tazas". During the main season in January and February several buses go from Molina and Curico to Radal and some even go all the way to Parque Ingles. Outside of the main season there is only one daily bus from Molina to Radal leaving in the afternoon from the rural bus station in Molina.
Update 12 Feb 2020 Frank: In summer there are 6 buses a day Molina-Parque Ingles.
Mon-Sat they leave Molina @ 10:20, 11:30, 12:40, 3PM, 6:15PM, 8:15 PM
Sunday Molina- Parque Ingles 7:45, 9:30, 2PM, 7:30PM, 10PM
2 hours to Parque Ingles, buses leave from terminal near main plaza in Molina.
Parque Ingles-Molina 7:10, 11, 1PM, 3:45PM, 4:45PM, 6:30PM Mon-Sat
Sun. 10:30, 1:30PM, 3:30PM, 5:45PM, 6:45PM
===Return from Finish===
Bus Termas El Medano - Talca
This trail section finished at the Route 115 to Talca. Big road with many cars.
===Escape Options===
==Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues==
* CONAF does register all trekkers at Parque Ingles (GPT01-WP004) but does not charge an entrance fee. Camp fires are not permitted within the national park that reaches from Radal (GPT01-WP001) to the Laguna las Ánimas (GPT01-WP013). * (Mar 2023) When starting from Vilches and going northbound, a permit to access the Volcano (or the Condor Circuit) is required. CONAF won't let you enter in Altos de Lircay without it. Call them to get the correct number. Moreover, you have to pay the entrance fee to the reserve and it is closed on Mondays in March.
==Regular Route==
'''Stage B: El Boslon Bolson to Laguna Mondaca'''
From El Bolson you get in one day to the Laguna Mondaca. If you partition this stage differently be aware that there are no inviting camp sites between the Laguna las Ánimas and the Laguna Mondaca. This stage should not be attempted in bad weather.
'''Stage C: Laguna Mondaca to Termas de Azufre'''
Going from the Laguna Mondaca to the Termas de Azufre makes a short relexing relaxing day and gives you pleanty plenty of time to enjoy Laguna Mondaca in the morning before leaving and the hot springs in afternoon and evening when arriving. If the sulfor smell at the hot spring bothers you, than you can camp on one of the meadows a bit further up.
'''Stage D: Termas de Azufre to Base Camp Descabezado Grande'''
The rather long day hike from the hot springs to the base camp Descabezado Grande requires reasonable reasonably good weather as you cross a 2700 m pass.
'''Optional Stage E: Summit Descabezado'''
The climb can be done in one day or split up in two. The disavantage of doing it in two days is the leak lack of a reliable water supply further up towards the summit once the snow is gone. If you do the climb in one day you may desire a rest day either before or after the climb. An extra day gives you also a buffer if the weather is not optimal for an ascent.
'''Stage G: Laguna Hornitos to Finish'''
From the Laguna Hornitos you can walk in one short day to the hydropower station Cipreses and the first bus stop on the Route 115. To the regular finish at the second bus stop on the Route 115 it’s a rather long day. If you do not want to arrive in Talca late in the evening you may opt to camp near the finish on the banks of the river Maule and take the a bus in morning.
===Regular Packrafting Route===
==Related Routes on Wikiexplora==
==Related Blogs and Online Publications==