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GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-09-09T21:43:52Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''3.03.26-5.03.26 / 3 days / From Villa O'higgings to Lago del Desierto / SOBO / Pierre et Clotilde" 

After the ferry crossing from Villa O'Higgins (with the company Turismo Las Ruedas +56966278836, but apparently there are others), the boat drops you off in Candelario Mancilla, where Ricardo and Mari Luisa's campsite is located. You can leave your belongings there while you're trekking.

Day 1 : From their campsite, we went to see the border guards, as you need to inform them about the trek you'll be doing. They're not bothersome; it's more of a security measure. They take photos of you. Don't mention your packrafts if you plan to use them, as they might not be very accommodating about that.

Then we did the loop, passing through the peninsula and keeping Lake O'Higgins on our right. There aren't any major difficulties, but a GPS is necessary and mandatory because the trail isn't always clear, and wildlife creates new paths. The views of the mountains, the lake, and the first Tempanos are fantastic. You'll be alone; the trail is very quiet.

For our first campsite, we slept at -48.86302, -72.897725, which turns out to be a spot used by the settler Don Lucho, though it's not always in use. You can sleep here with your tent or under the shelter to the left of the house.

Day 2: The next day, we went to this point -48.917816, -72.96385, where we inflated our packrafts for a round trip (about 16 km) on Lake Chico to get closer to the glacier. Be careful of icebergs that can capsize and icefalls from the glacier. The conditions were ideal for paddling: bright sunshine and no wind. Alternatively, there's a trail to the left.
We slept on the same beach as the launch point.

Day 3 : For the return to Candelario Mancilla, we took the classic route that crosses a beautiful plateau and descends along the river, crossing a few streams, until we reached the gravel road and the Gendarmerie post. You need to return to inform them that you've completed your trek.
We slept in one of Ricardo's cabins (30 000 pesos para dos) and ate a delicious hot meal prepared by Mari Luisa. They offer several products : eggs, pasta, arroz, fideos, lentejas, sal, azucar, tortilla, carne vegetal, avena, polenta, atun,papel hygienico, galletas, cervezas, chocolate.

They have Starlink, like everywhere else, so it's easy to do the Salvoconducto (a type of mobile phone service).
Ricardo can also take you to the Argentinian border for 10,000 pesos per person.

From the border, it's a 5 km walk to the Carabineros post, and Lago del Desierto, where we paddled, offers an incredible view of Fitz Roy on a clear day. On the other side of the lake, you can hitchhike to El Chaltén or take a rather expensive tourist bus.

''' GPT 37 + 38 | 1/16-1/23 | 7 Days | Western Traverse + RR Counterclockwise | SOBO | Graham + Gabe '''

Section 37 - 5 days
Picked up at Bahia Pescado
Section 38 - 2 Days
Section 37 was beautiful, challenging at times, but quite a nice desolate section. Mild weather, got some nice views. Laguna Verde is beautiful.
Trail is actually in quite decent shape, perhaps section 36 lowered my expectations. However, if you don’t lose the trail, did you ever even have it?
The Puesto at Bahia Once Hermanos is not abandoned, but was not currently occupied.
Waited at Bahia Pescado for boat, the company could receive my messages but not vice versa, so I used third party to communicate with them via whatsapp — shoutout Ally.
Section 38 we started with the pass with the plan of doing out and back to Don Luchos. Pass is quite chill. Don Lucho was not home, so decided to take loop along lake back. Got pounded by freezing rain, but 2 hours later it was one of the most beautiful day we have had in the south.
Got to Ricardo’s late that night, was gifted Cazuela to warm our souls. Lovely people who are actually related to Roberto (the kind Arriero on section 33!)

* '''2026-03-02 / 1 day / hiking / SOBO / Isabelle & Sander'''
Because of time we walked in one long day 34 km from the camping at settler ricardo at the ferry from Ohiggins to camping Lago del desierto (expensive at 30k ARP, like 20 euros, pp and not very nice, but includes a hike to glacier huemul if you’d like). There’s a nice spot halfway the lago del desierto (on osm) but with a brand new sign prohibiting camping so we continued and left the space to the huemules.
Border crossing just takes few minutes per person so was going fast, contradicting some reports below. Met many nice cyclists. We enjoyed this bordercrossing, but don’t expect anything like the fun Carabineros at paso Vuriloche.

* '''2026-02-24 to 2026-02-28 / 5 Days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO then NOBO (anticlockwise "lying P)) / RP / Antoine,Dani, Michel & Lisa'''

General notes:

- If you leave food at the camping (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]), make sure it's mouse protected. We came back to a few holes in our bags...

- You can buy food at the Camping (very good home made bread - we bought 40 héhé, meat (you should notify them in advance since it's frozen), pasta, tomato sauce, oil, eggs, sometimes even beer and wine). And the prices are fair. They have small cabins for 30k and a nice hot shower. Here's the contact for reaching out: Mari Luisa Candelario: mariluisa78(at)hotmail dot com. / 0056 974461661.

- If you want a transport by car to the argentinian border, contact Mari Luisa beforehand, for us it was 10k per person.

- The carabineros want you to fill out this expedition form if you go to the peninsula. They weren't happy when they learned that we went there without notifying them.

- The views on this section are amazing and it's well worth the detour, even without packraft. The best views were from slightly uphill of Camp (38} (20.8/693] (S48.906071° W72.934563°), from slightly downhill of the pass on the peninsula (about -48.91524, -73.03481), from the Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] and of course from the packraft on Lago Chico.

- Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is a good campsite as well, at least in calm conditions and offers amazing views of Lago and Glaciar O'Higgins. The rumbling of the calving glacier can be heard constantly. There are some large boulders that would provide shelter from westerly winds as well. Plenty of water there.

- Don Lucho (actually his son david) asked us for 20k per person for accessing his private property (the peninsula), although we ferried ourselves over the river in our packraft. We asked him if he could do a group price and he went down to 10k per person. We thought it was okay to pay something for the maintenance of the trails (they are actually really very good). If you did the loop in the other direction you might not have to pay anything.

- Doing this loop in the opposite direction (counter clockwise) would be the saver option and at least on the Lago Chico also more scenic. Because you might get stuck at Glaciar Chico in bad weather conditions. The rest is probably more scenic in clockwise direction like we did.

- Options C and D (coming down from the pass towards the peninsula) are better than RR (much less overgrown), in our opinion they should become RR. Access to option C when coming down from the pass is a bit overgrown, but then turns into a good trail.

- The steep downhill after Pass {38} [40.4/1225] (starting at -48.98290, -73.08804) was fine to do even in wet conditions.

- The Refuge (38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) was open and a very good place to wait in high winds. There seems to be a solar power setup that's disconnected but that could work if you plugged everything in.

- We did the loop in 5 rather relaxed (i.e. not too long) days.

- Generally speaking trails are surprisingly good on this section, especially on the peninsula thanks to the settlers Don Lucho and his son.

- Additional water points: S48.927130° W73.081616°, S48.959326° W73.114626°, S48.961134° W73.111681°, at and east of Pass {38} [40.4/1225].

* '''GPT38 / 2026-02-03 to 2026-02-07 / 5 days / SOBO / Anti Clockwise / Hiking / Variant A, RR, Opt 01, RR, Variant A / Alex and Aoife''’

Glacier Chico, Carmela Peninsula.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 1/5

Beautiful views of Chico Glacier and O'Higgins Glacier if you get to make it to Peninsula Carmela.

Day 1:
Distance: 21km
Time: 1040-1930
Water: Numerous water spots

Left Maria and Ricardos with fresh bread in our bags and belly's at around 10.15am on variant A to the RR. We also Left a food bag with them which was no worries at all.

Went and spoke to the Gendarmarie at the Chilean border control. Where they asked us a few questions, similar to a trip intention form some National Parks have.

- Contact details
- Emergency contact
- Route planned
- How many days of food
- Took our photos

It was all completed with a smile and friendly manner. They asked us to come by when we finished our hike and we then set off.

Route:
Very enjoyable, easy walking, we stopped for lunch at ( -48.828432, -72.794089) where there was a stream.

After lunch the terrain was very open and undulating, numerous animal trails. Had to constantly check GPS as it was easy to go off. Although technically it wasn't hard, we Found the constant checking of trails slow.

Saw farmer from a distance at:
Settler [19.1/282 Cerro.Colorado abandoned)
Not abandoned, when we got near. We called out. Owner never came out. We carried on walking.

Camp:
(-48.86614,-72.89986) incredible views, relatively sheltered , ground not fully flat. Numerous good water sources before and after camp.

Another optional camp site at (-48.87116,-72.90549) bit further away from farmer, stream near by.

Day 2:
Distance: 8.5km
Time: 0730-1100
Water: Streams near camp at start and near abandoned (not so abandoned) settler.

Route:
We got up earlyish with the intention of getting to the river to catch Don Lucho.
Not far in we were again being mislead on animal trails and finding the correct trail finding slow so it took us longer than expected.

Once we got within eye site of:
Settler {38} [27.1/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?)
Which is not abandoned. It is owned by Don Lucho, but he doesn't live there, a few guys working for him were living there at the time.

We stopped for a break and some water from the stream there. A man on a horse appeared, we told him our intention to go visit Carmela Peninsula and to try catch Don Lucho. Lucky for us, We were talking to the man himself! He advised us he would be back and take us over in the afternoon (Tarde, which as we have learnt is considered all the way upto darkness)

We hung out relaxed around that area all day, at around 2130 we figured either we got the message or wrong or he wasn't coming back.

Camp:
We pitched our tent next to his horse yards at around (-48.91389, -72.96153). At about 2215 Don lucho appeared on Horse back with two other men and around 10 dogs and a couple of cows They had caught and Brought back. Everyone looked tired, he said It was fine For us to camp there and to meet him at the river (-48.90912, -72.98027) opposite his house at 0800.

Day 3:

Distance: 8.9km
Time: 0730- 1100
Water: stream at Don Luchos and at campsite.

Route:
We walked on option 1 the 1.5km to the river. At 0750 Don Lucho appeared by his Row Boat on the other side. He paddled over and picked us up and took us onto Peninsula Carmela. His place is quite an Oasis there, he lead us over to the trail head.
We explained we were going to camp up there and come down the following day which he told us he will take us over in the afternoon. He asked for 20k CLP total.

Easy walking on a clearly defined track, slightly steep for short intervals.
It was a windy day so once we were up top we were getting gusts of around 60-70kmph straight from the southern ice field so the temperature was ‘invigorating’. Views of Glacier O'higgins were spectacular.

Camp:
Camp {38} [32.0/744
-48.92009, -73.05421

Beautifully sheltered camp site with a nice stream running through it. Due to cold and windy weather, we were happy to use this as a rest day and just park up for the remainder of the day.
Sunset and sunrise views at -48.91952, -73.05376 2 min walk from camp.

Day 4:

Distance: 13.8km
Time: 1030-1430
Water: No issues, plenty around.

Route:
Walked The leisurely 3.5km to:
Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874]
-48.92954, -73.09554

Incredible views. Probably The best we have seen on the few sections we have done of the GPT so far.

Descended back down To Don luchos where we waited out of the wind and read a book. He appeared at around 1930 looking tired saying he will take us over tomorrow morning at 0800 and to camp at his.

Camp:
Don Lucho took us to a little fenced off section, by his house had a pipe from the stream for water, nice grass, wasn't completely sheltered but wasn't too bad.

Day 5:

Distance: 25.5km
Time: 0800 - 1600
Water: Plenty

Route:
Don Lucho rowed us back Over at 0800, we said our goodbyes and continued on option 1 to RR back over the pass to Candelario Mancilla. Saw our final views of Chico Glacier as we were ascending to the valley be the pass.
The walking was easy on a very prominent track. Took our shoes off at 2 fords, nothing to mention there. The walking is quick once on the MR back to Candalario.
We actually passed 3 other people that day in two party's none of whom were GPTers who were going to try and visit Carmela. Which kind of took us by surprise.

We went back past the Gendarmarie. We signed their form to say we were back and safe and they asked us to complete the Salvoconducto form that night so we could leave for Argentina the next day.

Camp:
We went back to stay at Ricardo and Marias. They had received a food delivery that day and had beers for Sale at 2k CLP from memory as well as more fresh baked bread and eggs.

'''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''

Route (includes part of GPT39):

El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla

Day 0:

After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118

Day 1:

Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.

Day 2:

In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees.

Day 3:

Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.

Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬

''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''

Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

Camps

Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.

Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.

* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.

<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.

Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1

After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.

I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.

*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''

Day 1

Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.

We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.

We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.

We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.

We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.

Day 2

We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.

The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.

On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.

When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.

We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.

The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.

Day 3

Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot

Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2026-09-09T21:41:40Z

Ant.bocquier: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT 32 | 1/26-1/28 | 2.1 Days | SOBO | RR | Graham + Gabe '''

Nice chill section. Beautiful.
Started from Las Horquetas at Noon.
Bus from Coyhaique at 8am and 4pm, we took uber for 35k.
They want you to do it in 3 nights, but it is easy and they charge per night.
First Pass is quite chill, not much snow. Beautiful Glacier Waterfalls on descent.
Camped 1km before La bosque campground.
2nd day we tried to get early start before wind. Arrived at pass at 11am, but it was too late.
Ended up descending from pass in horrible wind, some gusts up to 70/80kmh. Quite scary, but we worked slowly and carefully.
Tried to pass Park Ranger early next morning to avoid paying, but did anyway.
Nice section, lots of people though.

''' GPT32/2026-02-12 to 2026-02-14/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''

Traverse from 28-30 km took some time, it isn’t extremely sketchy, but we had to be careful, in bad weather could be bad idea. Wet grass or buddy terrain would make it much harder.
From camp El bosque we went for sunrise to Mirador de Cerro Castillo, so we were there alone, but camps were pretty crowded.

In National Park probably hikers should book tickets in the advance, to limit number of tourist on trail and in Camps. We didn’t know about that, but no one checked on that. When we followed the RR all the way we didn’t go through any official entry or exit to National Park so we didn’t pay any fees.

Camps:
1. S 45.910617° W 72.058600° big meadow with water.
2. Camping El Bosque in NP

No water issues at whole section.

Resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo we did in Minimarket Villarica, they have gas as well. It was closed but we called them and begged to open for us.

* '''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-17 / 6 Days / Packrafting + Hiking / SOBO / RP + 09 + M + RR + E + RR + Castillo glacier + RR + 10 / Antoine B'''

One of my favourite sections and... no one around this time!

Day 3 (I started with 31P)

From the shore of lago Elizalde, it was tricky to find a way through the fences, so I crossed the river and reached the main road where I hiked for about 2 hours (barely any traffic going south). I finally got picked up by a French Guide who drove me to the crossing right after Rio Paloma bridge (looks gorgeous). I finished walking down to the private property where I had a discrete camp by the river trees.

Day 4

When entering the lake at 9am, I met a friendly keeper who let me embark on Lago Desierto (beautiful, some OK waves). Saw no one at the next shore. Another 2h beautiful lake crossing, where waves got bigger and chaotic by the end, especially close to the cliffs. After landing, I saw a keeper and asked for the right of way. He asked the manager who denied access through the property to the MTB trails climbing in the mountains. Puzzled about how I got there (the whole valley is the property of a rich US owner who hires 20 people all-year long). He gave me a boat ride across Lago Paloma, then a car ride uphill to catch up variant M, in front of the gate (with cake and coffee extras). Turned out quite well in the end. There is a sign that the trail is closed or not maintained anymore but it is still in good condition (nice forest walk, fantastic lookout). Camp at the start of the ridge section.

Day 5

Bad weather eventually arrived and I slept in until 12. At 2.30pm, when the rain stopped, I explored a potential alpine route following the ridge and slaloming the peaks.
Awesome views but this looked more like mountaineering in steep/scree terrain, and with hail/strong winds starting I decided to go down to connect back with the track, at the difficult waterfall. It was a slow descent in unstable terrain but I liked the offpist experience. The whole area reminded me of Lappland somehow. The descriptions to climb the grassy slope by the waterfall and go by the forest to avoid climbing were useful. The grassy slope is actually better than it looks but I was careful with the wet ground and the 25kg backpack. The valley was beautiful but windy so I continued to the other side and camped in the forest in a tiny clearing on the path.

Day 6

Finally some sun among clouds in the morning. Generally easy walking to connect with the main trail. Went running (bag-free!) on Variant E up to the glacier. If you like climbing rocks, the view gets even better at the end. I still haven't met anyone. Back to RR, climbing to the pass where barely any snow was left (dozens meters on the other side, actually nice to walk on, with huemul footprints). The views after the pass were rewarding, among light rain and wind. The well defined trail through the forest is so enjoyable, what a contrast to many GPT sections! I arrived around 5pm at the Bosque camping and met... no one. What a different experience, I can't complain about the crowds! Hiking during the week with rainy/windy (wouldn't call it stormy) weather is probably the answer for loneliness. At 7pm I went across the forest towards the moraine (a few min walk) and then walked to the Laguna. Pretty nice view, despite cloudy summits and the fierce wind & rain cocktail in my face. Hanged my food in the rainy night, although I haven't seen any mice (only cute colourful birds coming by).

Day 7

An enjoyable long night/morning under singing rain. After the rain stopped, I left at ~4pm and hiked up to the informal campsites right before the lake. I was planning to go all the way to Camping Neozelandés but watching the Cerro Castillo glaciers I could not resist having a closer look up there. I left my backpack and climbed NW through the boulder field, all the way up to the pass/plateau (-46.07005, -72.19438). Demanding short hike (1km, 400-500m) but the rocky terrain was actually holding well (no scrambling). Incredible views up there on both sides, and the glacier right below Cerro Castillo. I climbed a bit higher up (-46.06911, -72.19559) and spent 2h admiring the mountains with dancing clouds and the sun finally shining. I saw 2-3 spots that could host mountaineering campsite sites (granted you have a good weather window for the night and morning). Camped at (-46.07268, -72.18411), just along the path but protected from the wind.

Day 8

What a SURPRISE at sunrise! It snowed about 5cm overnight, the landscape is stunning and I'm having a blast climbing to the pass in the morning light and swirls of snow. The atmosphere is so incredible I stopped 1hr to contemplate it. The snow melted within a few hours and on the way down to the park exit, I finally met my first humans for the last 4days. I followed the river to exit the park, crossed the road until I could inflate the packraft. Still tight water levels, I touched the ground several times. But I made it to Rio Ibáñez. I was super fast! I topped 10km/h (6km/h river flow + big tailwinds)? Exited as indicated on track files and walked to town, staying at Nordic Patagonia, 10k CLP per person. Garden camping. Friendly, hit showers, WiFi. But street noises and lights are quite annoying after being in the nature...

Why was there no one in Cerro Castillo? Mystery solved: the park was closed up to the last day because of the stormy weather (got lucky!).

I was planning 2 nights in Villa Cerro Castillo and but eventually stayed 10+ days after meeting a friendly climbers who invited me to join. There are awesome equipped climbing sites next to town, with lovely/cheap camping at the bottom of the cliffs (e.g. Chabela). Not to mention the fiesta costumbrista & local parties - good Chilean friends met there.

* '''2026-01-10 to 2026-01-12 / 3 Days / Hiking / SOBO / 02 + RR + E + F / Michel & Lisa'''

'''Note''': Option E is no longer passable since the land owner doesn't allow people to go through the land. If you want to go down from the ridge to the valley you'll have to use the now official trail that goes further west (visible on OSM maps).

Day 1

We took one of the 8:00 buses from Coyhaique towards Villa Cerro Castillo from the bus terminal and were dropped off at Las Horquetas at about 9:30. Had breakfast, lost a nice titanium spork in the process and started hiking at 10:00. The beginning is all MR but quite nice. There were quite a few river crossings after the first few km, depending on your preferences you might opt to hike in your water shoes if you carry any (we chose not to but in hindsight it may have been less rhythm-breaking to do so). Anyhow, the path is very clear and at some point develops into more of a trail. Plenty of water along the way, no need to carry much. At least at this time of year. We hiked to the first camping Río Turbio ([-46.00821, -72.10414]) which had quite a few tents but didn't feel crowded. Mice could be seen running around, we hung all our food just to be sure. We did the hike to the Lagoon (Glaciar Peñon; Option E), which took 45 min to get to the lagoon (we didn't go further and hiked quite fast). Very pretty up there, worth the extra trip if you have the time/energy.

Day 2

Started hiking at 9:00, starting through the forest and up the pass where there was luckily hardly any wind but still some hard snowfields. We took a break shortly after the pass but in hindsight should've continued to about here: [-46.04032, -72.13635] because there you get a great view over the valley beneath.
We continued to the next camping El Bosque. It's very sheltered but also kinda dark here, even though the river is close. Traces of mice here too, which is unfortunate but as expected; we hung all our food again). Thanks to the people who suggested to hike to the end of the camp (coming from the east). It's a great tip if you prefer some privacy, since most hikers just stop at the sight of the first campsites. But if you continue 100 m after the start of the campsite (coming from the east) you'll get to a smaller second section where you'll be more to yourself. We hiked to the small lagoon (trail indicated on OSM) which is well worth the trip. Only about 20 min hiking and it's amazing up there - great views of the remnants of the glacier, the mountains and the lagoon. We even went for a swim (yes, brrrr, but we brought food and our stove to make tea afterwards B⁠-⁠) ). We agree that this could/should be a GPT option, but of course people will find it on the OSM maps anyways.

Day 3

We started at 9:30 and got up to the viewpoint of Cerro Castillo quite soon though we took many breaks to take pictures - including some of baby geese (what are they doing up there?? Haha). The views from up there are great, making up for the fact that you have to share your space with day hikers who come from the village.
Then came the long, crowded, dusty descent. The ground is composed of very fine dust in many places that is stirred by everyone who walks on it and dispersed by the wind. Afterwards, I could pour it out of my shoes. Get ready to clean your stuff. ;-) We wanted to take Variant F to descend to the village which is much faster than the official route which goes further west (which means you have to backtrack on the MR down in the valley - not a good deal we thought). However, there is a little wall of stones blocking it, indicating that this trail is no longer used. We told each other that we didn't see it and continued on the trail. It is very easy to follow and in the upper parts also very sandy. Lots of feline footprints on the path, a puma maybe?
At some point further down in the valley there were some laminated sheets of paper announcing that this was not an official trail to enter PN Cerro Castillo and that anyone using it would be turned around in 5 km at some station. However, we hadn't encountered anyone on the trail, though we did see something that looked like a puesto no longer used. We continued on the trail and found the way out through a private property that had some "no trespassing" signs and we had to climb a locked gate. It seems someone was tired of all the foot traffic through their private land or something. So we think options F and G should be deleted from the GPT tracks since they seemingly cross private land where the land owners don't want people to go. A new option should follow the official trail (visible on OSM) that turns south here: [-46.08724, -72.17281].

'''2026-01-08 to 2026-01-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + RR + F / Chris & Lotte'''

Pretty route, a bit touristic. Hoards of mice. Currently visibly dryer than usual.

Day 1: took a bus from Opec station (buses lucas) at 7:45 to ibanez and exited at las horquettas. followed the official Las Horquetas trail. Campsites look nice, full of mice. We camped at shortly before Laguna Glaciar Penon. No mice presence visible in this rocky terrain. Water is plenty.

Day 2: Continued back to and along RR. Water plenty. Shortly before Camp 50.5 we drank some water. Lotte seemingly got food poisoning... shortly after she vomited and was dizzy. We set up camp in 50.5, next day all good.
The stream we took from didnt look bad, in hindsight we'd still choose to drink from it, there were no obvious no-no's we ignored. My stomach was fine. Use this info for your personal decision.
Very pretty view and nicely sheltered from the wind.

Day3: chose easier Variant F to not have to hitchhike to cerro castillo. Not as mice-y day, but quite touristy. This seems to partially be flooded by day tourists. Although the variant leaves that into a deserted trail, leading through private property and skipping the toll.
ATM in cerro castillo is out if order.
ATM in Balmaceda (suprisingly good rate) works. No gas in Balmaceda though!

Mice: they are frequently present. Last week was a confirmed case of hunter virus in the region Cerro Castillo, five in the "bigger region".
We saw at least five dead mice on the trail. Precautions should be taken seriously.

'''2026-01-05 to 2026-01-07/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, Variant E/ RR/ Option 3/ RR/ Greg Carter'''

Only a few things to add to Dave and Siyuan’s log of their trip on 21-25 December 2025.

Overall
The mountains were stunning, worth paying the price of admission (CLP 35,000), and putting up with mice, tourists, tábanos.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1
I started from Villa Cerro Castillo (Nordic Patagonia has a nice campground, cost CLP 10,000 pp: -46.12121, -72.15896), and took a local bus to Las Horquetas for CLP 8,000. There was an unmanned Ranger station with a book for voluntary registration, which I completed. I was going to camp at Rio Turbio/ Segundo camping, but I arrived early afternoon and the tábanos were oppressive, so I kept hiking.

(Generally in the forest, throughout the hike the tábanos were bad, so I recommend you bring a headnet, and be prepared to swat/ kill a lot of them.)

I hiked up Variant E, to Laguna Glacier Peñon, which was very picturesque and well worthwhile. There are also some good camping spots up there.

In the late afternoon, as the weather was good I went over the pass, which had some snow fields on the top (I walked on them with no micro-spikes required). There are wonderful views to the east, and the western side of the pass (which is steep with some fixed ropes), has beautiful views of numerous waterfalls coming off the mountain.

I camped before Camping El Bosque, at Camp {32} [48.0/939], which has some good, slightly sloping sites.

Day 2
Upon reaching Camping El Bosque I took the side trail west (OSM), up to the laguna/ glacier viewpoint, which was well worthwhile.I recommend that this become a new variant.

Before going up I stashed my backpack off the trail. On returning I found that mice had eaten through the mesh of a side pocket to try to get into a plastic jar of peanut butter. A big reminder to hang all food around GPT32!

Upon leaving Camping El Bosque there is a CONAF sign stating that you should cross Morro Negro before 12pm, due to it being an exposed rocky ridge, with strong wind gusts usually hitting after this time. If the conditions are not optimal CONAF states that you must descend via the Mirador Laguna trail and re-enter via Estero Parada.

The views at the Mirador Cerro Castillo were really stunning in perfect weather.

I continued over Morro Negro with little wind, and camped at Camping Neozelandés. The trail to this camp from Camping Porteadores has an easy gradient. Also there is more and better camping, and much nicer views in close proximity to the mountains. Plus it positions you well to hike to Laguna Duff the next day.

Day 3
I hiked up to Laguna Duff for the sunrise - the views were incredible, with a mirror reflection of the mountains.

I then hiked out, paid CLP 35,000 at the Ranger station, and was required to complete an electronic declaration that basically declared I was ok to hike what I had just hiked! Ridiculous bureaucracy. But at least CONAF provides free WiFi!

I got a lift back to Villa Cerro Castillo with some others in the back tray of a taxi cab (CLP 5,000). I’m glad I didn’t walk - it’s a very stony and boring road.

* '''2026-01-06 to 2026-01-07 / 2 days / Packrafting / EABO / RP + Option 09 / Daniel.s'''

A little packrafting on lagos Desierto, Azul and Paloma to make use of a low wind day.

Day 1: took the bus towards Lago Caro (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am, Sunday 3pm from bus terminal Coyhaique) and got off at the intersection (X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310]) and hiked to the put in for Lago Desierto. No mentionable difficulties. Crossed the lake with strong tailwind and very strong gusts. Take out was tricky, because the wind pushed me into the current of the river mouth. Hiked the portage to Lago Azul with inflated packraft. Wind on Lago Azul was even stronger, so I stayed put. Found a sort of windsheltered spot near the put in (half collapsed boat hut). During the evening the wind changed direction 180° for about one hour - very strange.

Day 2: Crossed Lago Azul in calm conditions, short upriver paddling against low speed current to get to Lago Paloma. Against expectations and wind forecast is had light headwind for the crossing, otherwise no difficulties. All the campsites in the track files seem very nice, too bad the wind stopped me early. Take out of Lago Paloma is a popular beach, got a lift right away.

'''2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + D + RR + E + 3 / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 1: We got the 08:00 Cochrane bus on Sunday from Coyhaique, and arrived at the option 2 trailhead Las Horquetas at about 09:30. The trail was mostly wide enough to walk two abreast, and very well maintained. Three river crossings required getting wet feet but nothing above mid calf level. We camped after 15km at the Segundo Camping -46.00816, -72.10431. Epic views of the mountains for the last 1km.

Day 2: The trail was a little more rugged today, but always easily followed and signposted where not. We took option E before the pass, which was well worth it. The pass had snow (about the top 30 minutes of hiking) which was compacted and easy to walk on without post holing. We camped at Camping El Bosque -46.06418, -72.16919 which was a very nice spot. The side trek just north of the camp is much recommended with epic views and only a 20 minute hike from camp.

Day 3: Tough climb up to the pass on steep loose rock. When you pass the lake, make sure you follow the left hand trail via -46.07673, -72.18537. We stayed on the right hand trail closer to the lake and ended up climbing up very steep scree to rejoin later. The pass was very windy when we crossed, but didn’t have any particularly treacherous falls if you were blown over, so we felt comfortable with ~60km/h gusts. We left camp at 09:30 and reached the pass at about midday, which was later than ideal. The route was well signposted with yellow markers. The down climb was steep but had fixed ropes in the most dangerous parts. As soon as we reached the tree line the wind subsided. We camped at the excellent Area Camping Porteadores -46.08874, -72.23553 with flush toilets and running water.

Day 4: We hiked Option 3 to Laguna Duff. We planned to leave the tent at Camping Neozelandés and camp there, but we made such good time that we continued all the way back to the lake and back to Area Camping Porteadores in 4.5 hours. Below the treeline there is a perfect single track trail. Once you’re in the alpine area the trail is much like the pass yesterday with moraine rocks, but not as steep. Laguna Duff is spectacular!

Day 6: Simple walk down from the camp site to the dirt road to town. We were charged $35k CLP per person on exit from the park at the rangers station (-46.11819, -72.21799). We hitched a lift on the dirt road back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

*'''2025-12-18 to 2025-12-20/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Opt 2+RR + Opt 3 + RR/Tomas Martinec'''

I did the option starting in Las Horquetas. Officially, the trek is recommended to be done in 4 days, but I don't think it is a big problem to complete it in 3 days if the weather cooperates.

Generally: There are a lot of mice everywhere. I always hunged my food and luckily hadn't any issue.

Day 1
I started in Las Horquetas and finished at the camp El Bosque, combining the first two recommended sections into one day.

First section until Rio Turbio is a comfortable walk overall. There are many river crossings, but all were below knee level.

Second section from Rio Turbio to El Bosque, this includes a climb to the pass. The second part of this ascent is open, rocky terrain. I ocasionally lost the trail, but it is generally quite well marked. At the top of the pass, there was still snow, so I had to cross the snowy terrain for about 15 mins.

Day 2

I slept at El Bosque and hiked directly to the lagoon and Cerro Castillo. As before, the climb and pass are mostly open rocky terrain.

For my second night, I continued to Camp Neozelandes, which has fewer people than Los Porteadores and it is closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 3
I hiked to Laguna Duff - another beautiful spot - and then descended back to Caseta Estero Patada.I paid 35 000 CLP for 3 days (the same price as for 4 days). From Caseta Estero Patada, there is about a 5km walk to Villa Cerro Castillo or you can hitchhike as there are enough cars passing by.

Generally, it is a nice trek with beautiful highlight spots. At the same time, it feels quite regulated compared to more remote hikes, which may or may not suit everyone.

'''2025-Dec-8 to 2025-Dec-11 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt2, D, RR, E, 3 / Emily & Kole'''

Beautiful route through forest and glacial valleys. More crowded with hikers but trails and campsites weren’t overrun. Trail well maintained, easy walking. We took 3N/4D to maximise a good weather window, but RR plus Variant 2 (Los Horquetas trail) could easily be condensed to 1N/2D. Attractiveness 4/5, difficulty 2/5 (w/ Opt2).

Day 1
* Caught the Cochrane to Coyhaique bus to the Los Horquetas trailhead. Started Variant 2 at 1.30pm.
* Spoke with ranger at -45.97772, -71.96298 who gave an overview of the hike. You can buy your park pass online or pay upon departure.
* Trail is very easy walking. A couple of fords, though all below the knee (165cm) and not strong.
* Camped at Rio Turbio (-46.00849, -72.10397). Perhaps 10 other hikers there but a large campground, plenty of space. Well sheltered, picnic tables. Mice everywhere! We hung our food.

Day 2
* Took option E to see laguna glacier peñón - easy detour with good views, would recommend.
* Some snow at the top of Paso Penon, but mostly hard; no spikes needed.
* Gravel/dirt quite loose in places on the descent from the pass, but easy to navigate when sticking to trail. Some ropes to assist descent if needed.
* Camped at El Bosque (-46.06415, -72.16944) for a short day, no visible mice but hung out food.
* Took the OSM north of camp to Laguna/Glacier (not in Gpx files). Short and easy climb following cairns. Better views and laguna than Opt-N, highly recommend.

Day 3
* After crossing the outlet of Laguna Castillo/at the weather station, start making your way upwards. Can start to ascend at any point, however following these markers puts you on a clearer trail.
* Winds are very strong at the pass plateau and when descending. Descent itself isn’t difficult, but can be more time-consuming with wind gusts.
* Took Option 3 to Laguna Duff. Easy climb, beautiful views of Laguna. Ranger informed us Camp neozelandés {32-03} [3.6/1156] is more exposed, but it’s still in the forest/a good sheltered option.
* We camped at Portedaores {32} [56.6/890]. Em fell asleep with her food and awoke to a tennis-ball hole chewed through her tent. Hang your food!

Day 4
* Had to sign a declaration/emergency contact form upon leaving park at rangers station. Paid 35.000CLP pp for 3+ days in park (honour system).
* Stayed at Turismo Al Galope, 10.000clp for camping. Nice indoor space with wifi, but BYO toilet paper, soap, and gas for cooking.

*2025-Dec-05 to 2025-Dec-11 / 7(6) Days / Hiking / SOBO RR,OPT 01,02,D,RR / Massa and Jacicek

Day 1

Started in Villa Frei, we took Uber for 18k CLP, as we missed the bus from Coyhaique. The driver didn’t believe at first where we want to drop off. Went in the direction of Lago La Paloma, the route was quite busy (it was Friday) and multiple people offered us a lift. We considered taking OH 32-05, however on the gate there is prohibition sign and multiple cars were going to and from the property. We decided to take 32-N and camp early (on the right just after the first gate on 32-N (gate open).

Day 2

Climb up was ok, trail is recognizable, we needed to climb through 3 fences (other had gates open or were broken down). We met a black cow with calf at the old farm. Then we took OH 32-01. The trail runs through beautiful forests and we found several trees with Quiñoto mushrooms (nice smell, but seemed over mature). Then approximately after the km 5.6 (or as Julien writes km 6) the trail mostly disappears. There are fallen trees everywhere and new young trees just high enough to obscure the path. This took us whole afternoon and was very demanding. We finally reached the Rio Blanco and camped there.

Day 3

Rest day – hiked few km, forced Rio Blanco and camped once again alongside it ca 2km before Las Horquetas (in the few trees downhill from the old barn).

Day 4

Forded Rio Blanco again near the parking at Las Horquetas entry. The trail is open. Guards recommended to make the trip in 4 days. According to their information the 32F is closed, but 32G appears to be open. The ranger hut at 32D was unmanned. We reached Camp Rio Turbio and stayed there.

Day 5

Climbed up to paso Peñon, which still had snow. The descend from paso is crowned by many waterfalls from melting ice. We stayed at El Bosque Campsite and made a walk to the viewpoint over the campsite. In the hindsight I would recommend to continue and stay at the closed Campsite just before Laguna Castillo If you are continuing to Morro Negro as you will start nearer the summit.

Day 6

On leaving the campsite we noticed small note from the park guards to pass Morro Negro before 12pm due to wind. We had reached the summit at ca 12.30 in strong wind. The descend from it is steep scree and in direct wind, take caution here. We camped at Porteadores.

Day 7

Went from Porteadores to Villa Cerro Castillo, payed 35 000 CLP pp for the park. Local worker offered us a lift for part of the final trip which we accepted.

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-24 to 2025-Mar-26/ 2.5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO RR, OH 2, OH3/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

On the 23th we arrived from GPT 33 in Villa Cerro Castillo. After resupplying we went to Las Horquetas by hitchhiking. We were lucky on that section to have a perfect wheather window: sunny, warm and with no wind. With wind the two main passes can be challenging. The second one is "forbiden" under strong wind (signs on the path). Overall that section us easy going as it is the well maintained ( and crowdy) las horquetas trail. There are a lot of signs on the trail, especially on alpine terrain. You don t need to check GPS However it is really scenic and there are some more alpine parts that we enjoyed a lot. Mojo negro is a must with the view on Cerro Castillo above the glacier and the view on the plain under us, on the Tores de Avellano, the tip of Campo Hielo Norte...

Camp1: camp el bosque ( OSM): lot of spots with tables, WC. No view and crowdy. It s better to continue higher, even to laguna cerro castillo.

Camp2: camp el neozélandes. Same but far less crowdy for us. There are spots just after the camp or at laguna duff ( but cold!)

Day1: First part is really easy going but not borring at all on MR. Then it goes up to the pass. Even at the end of the season we walked on snow patches at the pass. The descent is slightly more technical ( but there are tons of ropes if you feel uncomfortable).

Day2: We started by going to the lack above the camp (no name). 1h up and back. Then we followed RR. Lago cerro castillo and mojo negro are just magnificent. OH 3 to laguna duff was also nice and easy. We were there for sunset so without the crowd.

Day3: Back to Villa Cerro Castillo. The MR is a bit borring but not so long. We did not manage to catch a lift. We took a bus around 1 pm( Don Carlos) to go to Coyhaique.

* '''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-08 / 5 days / Packrafting and hiking/ NOBO / Option 6 / Tomáš&Natalie'''

Not important prelude: We were not going to do this. Several continuous days of rain were forecasted. We meant to take a ferry north from Puerto Chacabuco. However, there were protests and the road to Puerto Aysén was closed on Monday and the buses were cancelled. The first bus of the day at 13:45 only went a few km before Puerto Aysén, where the prostest were. We were supposed to walk through them and board another bus. Locals said that the ferry always leaves later than the schedulet 15:00 and we should make it. But when we reached the protests, somebody called the port and the ship sailed on time. Given we also left our tent poles in Cochrane and were arranging for them to be sent to Coyahaique by bus (thanks Thijmen!!) and then by post (from Coyhaique to Santiago) and that the forecast was improving somewhat, we took it as a sign to do this option which we have previously mulled, so we returned to Coyhaique instead of hunting the ferry by hitching to Puerto Cisnes, where it would be at 11PM. We cursed ourselves throughout when it was cold, rainy and flooded, but you only truly remember the good stuff later on, so now it feels good. We walked in drysuits 80 percent of the time. We would never want to hike in such rainy and windy cold weather without drysuits and drybags.

Overall, I think we are the first who have done this hike since it has been promoted from exploratory options. The GPS is correct. Hiking wise it is easy, possibly easier (less exposed, we had no issues doing it in the rain) than RR. Fords are much worse though, at least in rainy weather. Scenic-wise it is hard to compare, we had no views in the clouds. But I assume the RR is prettier. Here you will meet noone, if that is a huge bonus for you, this could be recommended. Or when denied entry on RR when going NOBO or if you have done RR previously. It is also obviously attractive for packrafters as it nicely connects to Rio Paloma/31P-01.

(The rapid under the bridge over Rio Ibanez at Cerro Castillo looked just like big waves (class III?) from the bridge, but do your own scouting, I saw it twice only for 5 seconds each, I just was surprised it did not look that bad.)

On Tuesday morning, we took a bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane and got out at Cerro Castillo, where we waited 4 hours for the bus from Cochrane that carried our poles. A gomeria here -46.12096, -72.16249 sharpened our machete very well and for free! When the poles arrived, we soon got a hitch to -46.13355, -72.41950. In the pouring rain and wind, we assembled the packraft and went 1 km down Rio Ibanez to option 10A. The river was flooded, all of the riverbed was under water. Luckily it was raining less then. Camped in the rain here: -46.11081, -72.40580. The cable car upstream is still there, no idea if it is functional though.

The trail up still exists, but it seems it had not been used this year, so it is not the fastest. Shortly after entering the forrest for the first time somewhere around -46.10651, -72.41083, there is a meadow with some bamboo where the other side of the trail is hard to find even with GPS, but it is there. The trail is good in the forrest, but in the open around -46.10263, -72.41470, it is somewhat overgrown, but not too bad, I did not use the machete. The option 06 is preferable to 06B. I think this is what "Mum, Sis and I" did. 06B is still a trail at least in its beginning and it was done by Jan and he did not seem to like the last BB climb (I talked to him). On our route, I would say the BB&CC should be more CC&BB&TL. First part is easy if steep descent in open terrain. Around here -46.09437, -72.42397, there was a trailhead. I however lost (not hitting "save" on new waypoints is a plague!) the exact coordinates, so look for it. The trail is maybe an animal trail and is steep, but it leads you down to a stream. Cross the stream here: -46.09371, -72.42521, where the animal (?) trail continues. Then keep to the ridge until you exit the forest. The forest is indeed quite open (the more the higher you are) and sometimes there is something that looks like a trail. Good camps with access to water would be -46.09088, -72.43224 and at the end of the BB&CC (not the one indicated in the files). This part took us maybe 2 or 3 hours, but we were slow. Camp without water possible here too: -46.09290, -72.42823. It was starting to rain when we reached the open terrain, so we put on drysuits. The meadows did not seem to be grazed and water was kind of everywhere. The traverse is however easy and not exposed. Safety-wise, we felt good even in the rain and medium visibility. It was not windy but we got cold (took us some time to get warm in the tent). The forest before our campsite somewhere around -46.05323, -72.47485 is very open - count no time penalty for walking there.

We had a late morning as it was still raining. When it stopped, we put on drysuits and went down the meadow and then it started to rain again. The meadow is being grazed and marshy and I do not think it ever gets really dry. Sometimes it seemed there is a bit of a trail in the forest on the west side, but we mostly walked on the meadow. Puesto del Avion stands, is semidry and kind of dirty. The trail after the meadow is well used and clear and muddy. The river was roaring (looked kayakable from high up, it is continuous rapids at least up to clas IV, but we obviously did not see all of it) and we avoided the first four fords that are close to each other by staying on the left side. This is doable, it takes a bit of time but the forest is open, just stay close to water. The ford 10.6 (-45.99676, -72.37790) was a clear nogo and initially we also tried to stay on the right. It went for a bit, but it gets steeper and steeper and cliffier and cliffier. We camped up there and tried to go further the next day, but turned back one third of the distance to the next ford. Traversing seems bad, but possibly crosing a sidestream here -45.99541, -72.37794, reaching above tree line here: -45.98498, -72.37741 and then going down -45.97970, -72.36782 might work, but the way down would be steep and it would possibly take a whole day, so you might just as well wait for the water to go down. In 12 hourse of no rain during the nightu, the water went down by about 15 cm at a narrow spot.

Back at the ford, it was still too strong. However, about 100m upstream (somewhere around -45.99786, -72.37877), where the locals' makeshift camp is, one can cross the river kneedeep where it is wider. First go in the middle, then about 50 m downstream and the cross to the other side and then along the river to the trail. The trail then goes under cliffs, the whole upper valley is quite pretty. The next ford 8.2 was also strong. Without backpack, I managed to cross it but a much better whitewaterless spot is about 60 m upstream in front of a big rock. The river was still strong, Natalie struggled a bit with it even with my help. It was mid-thighs and pushy in the middle. Having lost a lot of time on the fords and attempted traverse, we camped at -45.95672, -72.35307, behind a new gate. The trail from there continues at least to -45.94945, -72.36639, where it fords the river (easy). I did not explore more, but I wonder if it joins option 8 at a clearing and buildings here: -45.93527, -72.42878, as the corresponding pass seems low and there do not seem to be any sensible other destinations in this valley. Somebody with more time and food should explore more - try to reserve at least half a day for it! There was also abandoned puesto here: -45.95000, -72.36480.

Ford 4.9 did not go down overnight, it was under our ùknees. Natalie forded a bit upstream where it is more pushy but boulders and stones give you more grip. I had no issues crossing at the proper ford, where the riverbad is exposed rock. It is not flat and not too slippery though. The rest of the valley is easy and finally it was a sunny day without drysuits! Bridge 30.4 on Option 5 was standing, so that still waits for its first log. It was a sunny Saturday and there were several cars (fisher and tourists) at Bridge 31, so hitching from there seems feasible. There was also some traffic on the less minor road to Lago Caro. We however went down on Rio Paloma on 31-01P.

*'''2025-FEB-26 to 2025-FEB-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short but very diverse section with a variety of terrain, picturesque forests, and stunning views. The memory of clambering up steep slopes in the northern part of the stage and then gazing at the imposing, dominating Cerro Castillo (2675 m above sea level) to the south is etched deeply in our minds. The section passes through Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, which means there is an entry fee and camping is only allowed at designated sites (see below).

Challenges:
Exposed terrain and clambering at kilometers 28.3-30.0. Caution and slow progress are necessary here. It is impassable in bad weather. There is nothing too complicated on BB + CC at kilometers 38.1-38.7; the forest is relatively clear and there is a narrow trail in some places.

Fees:
At the time of our passage, the entry fee for Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo was (for foreigners per person) 18,000 CLP for one day, 24,000 CLP for two days, and 28,000 CLP for three or more days in the park. We paid 24,000 CLP each upon exiting the park (X {32} [60.6/316]) since we spent one night outside the park.

Bivouacing:
Camping within Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo is, according to information from the gatekeepers, only allowed at officially designated campsites marked in OSM map sources:

1) Segundo camping (-46.00818, -72.10410)
2) Camping El Bosque (-46.06429, -72.16909)
3) Camping Los Porteadores. (-46.08888, -72.23543)

We only used the last mentioned site as we chose the fastest route through the national park.

These campsites have designated spots for tents, wooden seating, and dry toilets. They were quite crowded in the evenings. Other campsites found in OSM sources or track files are not official and thus illegal.

Water:
Water is not a problem; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
In Villa Frei, we bought supplies for 2.5 days in a small shop with basic groceries, and we had a little left over. In the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, there is a well-stocked shop called Janito, and a bit further along is a stylish food truck made from an old bus.

'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option E, Option 3, Option F / Tyson'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas (BusCarolina). Was full on a Sunday, but a friendly worker at the station said I should insist, so I ended up standing in the back for the hour and half ride.

Day 1: Guard at the station gave the usual advice to hit the passes early to avoid the afternoon wind. Easy to follow trail, very scenic. Some wet cow trails at one point, but just following the river, so easy. A few ankle deep crossings. Went up to Laguna Penon (called Laguna El Turbio on some maps) in the afternoon. The wind and rain started up on the way. Made it up there to momentarily enjoy a whitecapped laguna and pelting rain.

Day 2: Crossed Pass Penon by 10:30 or so. One could easily do Horquetas to Camp Bosque in a day, weather permitting. Made it to Bosque by late lunch so went up to Laguna Tempano / unnamed glacier viewpoint. Got a half hour of sun up there before the wind turned it to white caps again. NOTE: there are a handful of campsites about 20 meters past the first main grouping that you hit. Everyone stopped at the first ones, while those stayed empty

Day 3: Late start but made it to Cerro Castillo by 11:30. Covered in clouds so waited about an hour to see if they would clear but more kept rolling in and wind picked up so I went on. About half way down the other side I look back to absolutely clear skies. Made it to camp Neozelandes (I recommend it over Porteadores) by maybe 4:30, set up camp. Up to Laguna Duff by 6ish, plenty of time to enjoy the remaining sun up there. At camp Porteadores, saw a hiker I met on day 1 with a bandage on her face. Her group of four had skipped over camp Turbio, so had crossed Castillo the day before. She described the wind as lifting her and another hiker up and dropping them on the ground. They scooted the whole way down to Porteadores on their backsides. Other hiker ended up with stitches in her leg (shout out to Marnie for some good looking backcountry sutures)

Day 4: Utterly clear day, couldn’t stand the thought of not seeing Cerro Castillo so hiked back up. Much easier to see the cairns and markers on the way up. People were just lounging up there without clouds or wind. Went down Option F, which was full of day hikers making the most of the cloudless day. NOTE the last half of option F goes onto private land now closed to the public. The rangers and physical maps will tell you to go half way down Option F and then take another trail going southwest. This is all well-beaten and impossible to miss. I actually completely missed the fork. Downside is that the trail spits you out further from the Villa. So if you can’t get a hitch (like me) then you’ve got another 5K to walk to town. Got charged the 28K pesos for 3+ days at the end.

'''25-02-17- 25-02-19/ 2,5 days / SOBO / OH02-RR-Var. E -RR-OH3-RR / Volker'''

Scenic, easy, short - nice section. Water everywhere, all river crossings dry feet. A highway for gpt standards.
Day 1: Bus (Don Carlos) from Coyhaique to Cochrane at 8 a.m., got out at Las Horquetas. Some hikers, but not overcrowded. Variant E to Laguna Turbia and the glacier recommended. There are several camp spots on the way to the Laguna and close to it.
Day 2: Started early, nobody on the easy and pittoresque way up and down the first pass. Crowds between El Bosque and the mirador, many day hikers. The scrambling up and down the 2nd pass probably isn‘t fun on a rainy and misty day. Lots of hikers at the Porteadores and Neozelandes campings. Again several camp spots on the way to the Laguna Duff and close to it.
Day 3: Short walk to Laguna Duff, very nice in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Met them (many dayhikers) on the way down. If you prefer to donate 28k to a charity instead of a Chilean state body - turn right at the sign „1km“ and walk along the river to the MR. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo from the parking 1,5km after the junction

* ''' 2025-FEV-13 > 15 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : pierriers, bush-bashing

Les 15 premiers km sont à l'image du GPT31. La vue est sympa mais la gravel road est ennuyeuse. J'ai marché 6 km puis on m'a emmené au lac La Paloma. Vraiment magnifique et populaire. Ensuite j'ai repris ma rando en revenant au km 15,5. Il y a un ford dès la sortie de la gravel road. La montée se fait bien, quelques clôtures à franchir mais la plupart ont été cassées par des randonneurs pour faciliter le passage. Il y a un ford au km 23,2, puis j'ai campé au km 23,6. Je suis allé au point de vue de la 32-C, ça vaut le détours. Il y a pas mal de cairns sur le sentier et on voit qu'il était très fréquenté par le passé. Mais ce n'est plus le cas et certains passages sont difficile. D'ailleurs le point le plus difficile est mal placé sur la trace GPS, la partie escalade se trouve au point 45.938328° S 72.086493° W. Au km 34, après le petit torrent, le sentier est envahi et j'ai beaucoup utilisé ma machette. J'ai perdu une guêtre dans la bataille. Après le km 35 le sentier est plutot dégagé. Au km 39 on rejoins les sentiers du parc et ils sont plutôt bien entretenus et très utilisés. Attention les camps aux km 48 et 50,5 sont fermés temporairement et deplacés au km 49. En passant devant le péage à la sortie du parc, j'ai dit que je venais de Lago La Paloma et ils m'ont laissé passer. J'ai essayé le stop sur les 6 km de gravel road mais sans succès.

'''2025-02-16 to 2025-02-19 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / optie 2, RR, option E, 3, nameless laguna / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* Hitchhiking to las Horquitsas took longer than expected (4 hours)
* I arrived at 15.30 and I was still allowed to enter. But you have to register otherwise the guard will run behind you (happened to me).
* At least 3 fjords on option 2 so sandals or something would be nice. I decided to get my trail runners wet but regretted it next cold morning putting on wet cold shoes and socks.
* The side trip to the lagunas are very beautiful go there! (leave your backpack down,)
* If you walk long days it's not busy in the park all the people gather at the camping sites and stop hiking at 15.00.
* Water: Easy everywhere except from Laguna Castillo to camp las porteadores has no water (3 hours walk).
* Camping: at official sites or if you like a camp with more scenery you can camp at Laguna Peñon and Laguna Castillo.

'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2p, Var f., RR / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the bus from Coyhaique at 9:00. It took about 1.5 hours, cost 10,000 clp each.
The trail from Los Horquetas was well maintained. There were a few small fords along the way.
Camped at Rio Tirbio with 10 more people.
We left our bags and went to Laguna peñon and back, about 2 hours detour. The trail to the lake is marked well. The Laguna was quiet small and had milky color from the melting glacier.

2nd day:
The accent to the pass and the descent were pleasant. A little after the pass a lot of little waterfalls from melting glacier- very beautiful!
We took a detour to the unnamed Laguna using Lilian's directions.
The CC to the lake is not marked but it wasn't hard to get there. Took us about half an hour to the lake. The laguna Had a tourquize color with brown on the outside to it.

We camped at El Bosque with tons of other tourists but there was room for everybody, and it was quite.
We left our bags and climbed to the unnamed lake. The trail was marked well. It took us about one hour up. The lake was larger then the last two. We heard cracking and falling sound on the way ( maybe falling glacier?)The weather was bad and we were wet and cold, so we hurried back down.

3rd day:
After a rainy night we started a rainy day.
There were glimpses of sun and we had a chance to see the fresh snow covered mountains around.
We decided not to climb to the pass because of the weather and took var f.
We didn't regret it because it started snowing and the wind was crazy.
On the way down we met a worried ranger who was going up to stop people from climbing the pass.
At ( -46.08730, -72.17282) we split from the gpx and walked down on a well maintained CONAF trail.
At (-46.067656,-072.119996) there's a CONAF cabin and we had to pay 28,000 clp each.
We hitchhiked the MR to the main road. There were a lot of tourists on this trail and it went pretty fast.

Took a bus back to coyhaique at 16:30.

'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH02, var D, RR, variant E. RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas in the morning to hike in on option 2, very easy.

Camped at Rio Turbio camp, saw a mouse here so hung our food.

Took variant E to Laguna Peñon route is marked with cairns. very quick and easy so worth the trip.

Pass 43.9km still has snow but is easily manageable.

Camped at El Bosque and took a side trip up to the unnamed Laguna above it. Really nice would definitely recommend it. The route isn't on the track files but is on OSM and is marked with cairns.

Pass 53.5km - no snow. Crazy windy for us.

Camp 56.6km - Camping Los Porteadores - busiest so far seems to get overnight hikers from Villa Cerro Castillo. Saw a mouse here too.

Took option 3 to Laguna Duff which is very beautiful. Met a ranger at the laguna who asked where we were camping.

Followed RR out, didn't see anyway to pay. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo. Camped at Nordic Patagonia for 9k

* '''2025 Jan 2nd to Jan 4th / 2.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2 & 3, RR, Var E / MiaimZelt'''

A very scenic route with good maintained trails and lots of watersources. All Campings are really nice: lots of flat spaces, sheltered from the wind, toilet, benches and access to water.

Day 1: Took the bus at 8 from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas. The trail from Las Horquetas is open again. Everybody has to register at the ranger kiosk. Really easy trail until Camp before the pass. Var E is beautiful and mostly hiking on a big field of rocks, marked with cairns. At pass Peñon there was still snow, but doable without microspikes. The way down is very steep. Slept at Camp El Bosque.

Day 2: Can really recommend to hike up to the nameless Laguna above El Bosque. Extremely scenic lake! Also Laguna Castillo is a real gem. Stretch of big boulders above the lake, up to the pass it gets easier. Was very warm up there and had no wind. Bring water from the lake, there is none until you reach the next Camp. Way down from the Pass is very steep with lots of scree. Hiked to Camp Neozelandes, pitched my tent and did a detour to the scenic Laguna Duff. On the way up i met a lady from the Conaf, asking where i want to sleep. Inside the NP you have to use the campgrounds.

Day 3: All the way down is very easy. Had to pay 28000 pesos for 3 days, price for chileans is only a little bit cheaper. Payment possible with card or cash. At -46.115013, -72.200497 there is an open gate with a sign "Bienvenido a Sendero Laguna Castillo". It's in OSM, but not part of the GPT-Tracks.

* '''2024 Dec 13th to Dec 17th / 5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2, RR, Var E, Var F, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really beautiful section with amazing views. The park is open but Las Horquetas remains closed, though many people are hiking it anyway. If not going over the final pass, Var F can be used to exit without paying though it possibly involves trespassing.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.00817, -72.10413 Camping Río Turbio (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, nice views, can have a lot of people there)

Night 2: same as Night 1

Night 3: -46.06419, -72.16915 Camping El Bosque (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, fewer spots than first camp site, very few are really flat)

Night 4: -46.07194, -72.18416 Camping La Tetera (technically closed campground, water access is a little way away, no really flat spots, poor wind protection, excellent views)

WATER:
Water was generally easy to find.

Day 01 - Dec 13th

We left Coyhaique around 10:30. There are buses that go that route, but we decided to hitch instead. We entered through the Opt 2 Las Horquetas route. It took us three hitches to get to the trailhead. The trailhead has a big sign that says the route is closed. I don't know if they plan to open it this season or not. At the very beginning there is an estero. There is a bridge to cross it, a little old but stable. Shortly after there is a park ranger kiosk, but it was unoccupied. Overall the trail is in good condition, easy to follow, but sometimes muddy. Beautiful views along the way. We were fortunate and had excellent weather. There are several unmarked fords in the first 16 km along Opt 2, all were easy, knee high at most. Water was generally easy to find. At the Rio Turbio campground there were around 25 other people there.

Day 02 - Dec 14th

We took Var E up to Laguna Glacier Peñón. It was a great side trip. The laguna is turquoise and the mountains surrounding it are very impressive. There were still snow fields on the way to the end of the track, so we didn't go all the way, but we got past the lake and to the other side. We saw two small avalanches while we were there. We also found a bird feather, we think from a condor, that was as long as my entire arm. We really enjoyed this side trip and recommend it. Water shoes could be helpful. We didn't have ours and it was possible without, but would have been easier and faster if we had had them. Important note, the whole route is essentially a field of small boulders. It does not require any scrambling, but it is slow going compared to the trail. We did this as an out-and-back and then returned to the Rio Turbio campground for a second night. One couple came around 22:00, but otherwise no one was there.

Day 03 - Dec 15th

We left camp around 10:00. We were ready for the Pass 43.9 and thought with only 10 km to go until Camping El Bosque we would be in camp early, but we were surprised at how challenging the day was. The first few kilometers up to the pass went fairly quickly. There was still snow on the pass, but it was at that stage where it is getting thin and you can't tell where you might fall through, so it was slow going checking our footing. The weather was great, full sun and warm, very little wind. Getting to the pass was slow but not too difficult. We stopped at the mirador for lunch and to watch the dozens of waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The descent was more challenging. It is very steep, and there was lots of scree on the way down. In one section CONAF installed a series of ropes bolted into the rocks to hold on to. Once at the bottom there was a boulder field and then a very nice forest. Amazing views of the mountains and glaciers. Camp 48.0 is a decommissioned camping area under recuperation. Camping El Bosque is at km 49.0. At Camping El Bosque there were two other couples there that night.

Day 04 - Dec 16th

From Camping El Bosque we took a side route up to see a lake. On Google Maps it is called Laguna Raimundo Vargas. It is not an optional on GPT, but it is visible on OSM. The lake is not visible on OSM, but it is on satellite, which is surprising because based on measurements using Gaia, it appears to be almost twice as big as Laguna Duff. The route up is marked by carens, but it is essentially CC across talus, about 1.3 km one way. The lake and the mountains are stunning. There were lots of ice floes on the lake. We sat for about 2 hours listening to the ice crack and watching avalanches fall. We highly recommend this detour if you have the time. Going in the evening might give a nicer light. We had lunch at Camping El Bosque and then hiked as far as Camping La Tetera, which is technically closed, and camped there for the night. Three other groups passed through and two other groups camped near us at La Tetera. It rained a bit in the evening.

Day 05 - Dec 17th

We got up very early with the plan to cross the last pass before the wind picked up. We headed up to the lookout over Laguna Castillo. About 300m of the ascent are a rock scramble which is challenging with a heavy backpack. At points we needed both hands to navigate the rocks. We were feeling exhausted from the previous days and decided not to attempt the final pass. There was no snow remaining on the final pass that we could see. We spent a few hours at the top. Lots and lots of other hikers were coming up or going through. The main trail down is very steep and had lots of loose rock on it. With heavy backpacks it was a challenge and really hard on the knees. It also took much longer than we anticipated. About two km down from the top CONAF had a tent stationed. Three guardaparques are camped there to check tickets on the way up and to radio down when people are leaving. They asked for our names. When we said we came from Las Horquetas they just said okay.
We took Var F and Var G to exit the park. Var F is clearly visible from above as you descend the main trail. The route is actually in excellent condition and is very easy to follow, however in the rain we suspect it would be very muddy. We opted to take Var G which breaks off of Var F and then rejoins it later. It goes through forest and woodland, very pretty and potentially campable in places. There were also a few places where we found water. About 2.8 km into Var F there is a sign facing downhill that says No Accesso CONAF. About 1.3 km before the road there was a gate we had to jump. 300m before the final gate we descended a hill and there were a couple buildings there. One was a baño for what looked like paid camp sites (there were picnic tables around) and one was probably a rental cabaña. We passed through two more gates that were open. At the road, the final gate was secured with a chain, but it was easy to open. On the fence outside the gate and on a second gate that was padlocked shut were two signs saying in English and Spanish “No Trespassing, Private Property”. There was also a small kiosk that looked like it could have been a ticket booth just outside the gate, but no one was in it. It is unclear if the no trespassing signs referred to the property we passed through or to a neighboring property. We didn't see anyone so we didn't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of if you leave along this route. Due to the clear no trespassing signs, the no access sign as you enter the park and the park guards near the top, I would only recommend using Var F to exit the park, not to enter it.

• * '''2024-Dec-05 to 2024-Dec-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / MR + Opt.N + Opt.M + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Start on main road very well for entry exit private fields.
Same for option N and M.
I had to take option 01 because I had bad weather... Option 01 is announced in TL but I think it would be better to validate it in TL+BB because I had BB on 6km with no path and many trees still on the path that I had to go around.
Also watch out for the Rio Blanco, where the final crossing is still mandatory, the current was quite strong despite being in December.
For the climb to Cerro Castillo from Villa Cerro Castillo I asked locals people, the passage by option F would no longer be possible because the owner of the field through which we could pass would have closed his ground to visitors. So I went through the main entrance (18000 pesos) with checkpoint entrance and when you go out, you will have my layout on the next edition of the GPT I think.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Var E/ Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: We got the public bus at 8am from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (600CLP) then started walking along the road towards Lago Monreal. Got a short hitch for about 5km, then walking again in light rain. Got a second hitch with a lovely couple who own a property right on Lago Monreal - they even had a key for the locked gate with cameras and drove us right up to the trailhead. As we started hiking up into the mountains the snow started to come down fairly heavily. Sheltered under a rock where some people must camp for lunch and was able to get water from a few sources along here. Stopped snowing so we took Var C, definitely recommend, amazing views over the lakes and would be an awesome spot to camp. Started on the sketchy traverse, problem for us was it was all under about half a metre of fresh snow, on top of a layer of very slippery ice. Luckily we wear hiking boots with deep tread so had fairly good grip even without microspikes. Hiking poles were lifesavers. Issues started with the descriptions of getting around the various gullies - they described using grass to climb up but for us everything was just white!!. Tom had a terrifying slip and slide 5m towards the cliff edge before arresting with his elbow and chin - his hiking poles had chosen this exact section to break so he was doing it without even poles. After this we backed down off the climb over the gully but in the end just had to go for it. I ended up carving steps out of the snow with my hands and packing the snow down so Tom could follow me up, and giving him one of my poles. If the snow hadn’t have been so fresh I think we would have had to turn around. I wish I could say it got better but as we started to head down into the valley we began to hit waist deep snow drifts. We were planning to camp here like others had but the snow was just too deep and we were worried about the cold so we decided to try to get over the pass and down into the forest for cover. Absolute battle wading through the snow, took turns breaking trail. Couldn’t see the river and unfortunately fell all the way through the snow and got my feet wet. Pass itself fairly easy to get over and then lots of shoe skiing down the other side. Dark fell as we got to the forest edge. Got confused by the GPX as it takes you right to the edge of a massive cliff - not great in the dark. Used other peoples notes and managed to find the trail on the other side of the river then just kept powering on until we found a clear spot on the old disused road at about (-45.98519,-72.10097). Collapsed into bed after a quick dinner at about 10pm - definitely the hardest day we’ve done on the whole GPT. Really wouldn’t recommend doing this section after heavy snow unless you have microspikes and probably an ice axe. Excellent navigation skills also a must due to lack of landmarks in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to frozen solid pants and shoes - it had dropped to -8 degrees overnight and was still -4 in the morning. After much smashing of our shoes and socks on rocks so we could put them on, we packed up the tent and headed off towards the tourist track. Passed Segundo camp, no one in sight. Finally thawing out when the sun came out. Took Var E up to the glacier - super long trip on rocky scree, worth going up to the lake but don’t go beyond like we did. Kept going along regular route after detour. Fair bit of snow on the pass, had to be very careful coming down as it was icy and windswept. Saw first glimpses of Cerro Castillo from behind. Camped at the old campsite just before El Bosque - still hadn’t seen anyone on the entire trail.

Day 3: Did the side trip up to the Laguna behind the El Bosque campsite. Headed up to the main Laguna Castillo and was nearly blown off our feet as we came over the ridge. Hid behind a boulder for lunch while we assessed whether to bail down the mountain or attempt the high pass in the winds. As we ate they seemed to die off slightly so we legged it up the mountain. Awesome views over Villa Cerro Castillo and we could see back to the Torres del Avellano. As we hit the top of the pass the wind started to pick up again. We had to hide behind boulders between gusts and then sprint to the next one to avoid being blown off the mountain. Tricky coming down the pass in the high winds as the scree was pretty loose and very exposed to the wind. Eventually made it down and to Porteadores. Decided to head up to Neozelandés so we could go up to Laguna Duff in the morning. A few people were camped here - first people we had seen on the trail!

Day 4: Plans to visit Laguna Duff were foiled as we woke up to heavy snow fall. Forecast was for even more snow so cut our losses and headed down. Visibility was terrible but passed several tour groups heading up the trail. Tried to avoid the park rangers but when we thought we were home free a guy in a Ute pulled us up as we were walking along the road towards Villa Cerro Castillo and asked where we were coming from. Took us back to the office and made us pay. Awesome section, snow and wind made it challenging but was great to have it all to ourselves until the last day.

* '''2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.

Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].

Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.

Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias'''
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.

Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.

Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.

* '''2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]

I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.

Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]

Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.

Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]

Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.

The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :

Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)

Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)

Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)

Resupply in Coyhaique:

I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.

If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.

Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.

Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.

Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.

They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.

Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.

Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.

RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.

Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.

Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.

Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.

Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.

Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.

Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.

Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."

"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."

Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.

Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.

After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.

Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.

I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.

After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.

Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.

The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.

The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.

Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.

When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.

When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.

Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.

I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.

National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.

Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.

I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.

Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.

Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.

Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.

I recorded this CC, will upload it later.

Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.

After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.

Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.

Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.

Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.

Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.

Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew'''

Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)

I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.

Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.

Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.

Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)

This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.

Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.

Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)

Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)

In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.

* '''10-Feb-2024 / Hiking / SOBO / 4 days / RR + Option B (attempted) / Ella & Cristopher'''
Day 1, we walked through the sections of private property without running into anyone, but met other local hikers a bit afterwards who said they have previously had problems with one of the landowners on the route we took, and that he has now installed cameras. Got to the section with the traverse and attempted to take Option B - definitely do not recommend this option. It took us about 2 hours to walk less than a mile on the super steep and loose dirt/skree. Multiple dangerous moments. Part of this option also seems to pass through dense forest which looked difficult to bushwhack, but we didn't make it that far before turning back as it was getting late with no end in sight. We camped right at the beginning of Option B, where there is a flatter patch and stream that you can walk down to. It was a good view, but we realized later that a better and equally beautiful place to camp would have been where the land plateaus a bit and there are multiple small streams, on the RR about a km after you pass the start of Option B. Day 2, we woke up to super windy and rainy conditions, and waited for it to clear until about 3 pm before starting the traverse. The RR turned out to be a relatively safer route than Option B, though we were still glad we waited for the bad weather to pass before attempting. Followed advice from Veronica at the difficult parts, which worked well for us. Definitely budget extra time for this stretch. Camped right after the traverse when it drops down to the river, which you follow to cross the first pass. The area doesn't get a lot of sun so it was really cold at night, but still a nice place to camp with flat spots and a river. Day 3, trail before uniting with the CONAF area was difficult to follow at points and slow because you are walking a lot on loose rocks. We were very confused when reaching a waterfall with no visible trail, but a few cairns about. Following advice from Will, we crossed the river just before the waterfall to go up the left side of the valley. Climb through the trees and then cross a few meters of steep loose dirt/skree, and you should be able to see where the trail then continues in the forest. Some bushwhacking after this but relatively easy to follow GPS track until linking with the CONAF Las Horquetas trail. Camped in El Bosque Camping which had a toilet but no water tap (though there is a river close by). Day 4, relatively easy and super beautiful walking all day. We took the RR all the way to the road, which does in fact avoid the CONAF checkpoint so we never had to pay. Ran into other hikers who said CONAF is only charging when you leave the park. Got very lucky with a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo, but I would not count on it and the road gets a lot of sun and I didn't see a water source. Bus from Villa Cerro Castillo leaves at 6 pm and goes to Coyhaique for 9.000.

Feb 2023 Frank
There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully where you climb out on grass (described by Veronica) there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline.

* '''2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie'''

We started around 1500 at Coyhaique and easily hitched to El Blanco. We hitched with three cars (last went to Lago Paloma) and walked about four km in between them along Lago Monreal to Variant M. The sign against hikers scared us and it was late (1930), so we camped nearby (100 m along the fence westward). We reread other reports and decided to go for it in the morning. We first tried to go along a fence lining a small cliff about 100 metres west of the road, but it is pointless and we found ourselves on the road after a few hundred metres. We did not meet anyone. It is easy to miss RR and start on option 1, keep an eye on the GPS. We met black cows at the same place as Stiina, but they just looked omniously at us.

As for the dangerous part, Tomáš ended up doing it three times as he dropped our tent poles from his backpack just before the start of the CC section. Unlike Nat (see below), he thinks the section is quite ok and he also found it quite scenic, especially the first part over the plateau. The annoying clambering is in fact only about two km long and can be done in about an hour if you know the way. It never felt dangerous to him, but he understands others see it differently. It is certainly more demanding than the average section of GPT. The description of Véronica is the best. The last obstacle (the boulder) is not entirely vertical (it feels like scrambling, not climbing), but you do need to use your hands and it is indeed exposed, down climbing NOBO is more awkward. On the other hand, it is only about seven metres distance (not elevation). We had sunny skies, in worse weather it would be a lot more annoying. The horseflies came back from the dead and died by the dozen under our merciless hands (Nat killed three accidentally just as she tied her hair back).

At the end of CC after the pass, the trailhead is invisible (45.9731564S, 72.1026797W). It starts in the trees immediately from the river, about 10 m above the start of the waterfall in between two landslide/avalanche bands. Will comments that the GPX trail is exact, but since we are used to the GPX being slightly off, we could not see it, I guess we should have just trusted the GPX. There is a cairn in the creek marking the entrance but it is unclear how long it will stay there. Once you reach the overgrown MR, after a hundred metres of easy BB, one can cut the first zigzag straight down through easily passable mature forest. Once down on the road, you can camp on it, it is not used by cars ever. Once you reach the CC at 60.9, do not ford but stay on that side of the river!

In the popular part of the hike, people concentrate at campings, but otherwise it does not feel too crowded (less than two dozen people met on the trails themselves per day). Until nine and from about five, you will meet almost nobody on the trails. The park is very attractive. There is good internet (Entel 4g) just before the pass at 53.5. From the other side, there is a sign saying the pass closes down in strong winds. Probably better to go there in the morning (weaker wind) or late (after six) in the afternoon (rangers have probably gone home) unless the weather is good. The sign where they turn people is probably at about 1250 altitude at roughly the treeline.

To avoid paying, Nat followed the RR and was succesfull (OSM is wrong, the official trail is to the east of the GPT in the last few hundred metres). Tomáš followed the easternmost OSM trail that leaves the RR at roughly 480 altitude. The trail is rather imaginary, but it is easy walking across meadows or rarely through open forest and across several fences. His efforts were probably pointless. Tomáš also wanted to cut the walk to Villa Cerro Castillo and forded Estero El Bosque, but it was equally pointless and involved several fences.

We found screwable gas cartridges in Villa Castillo at the supermarket "Villarica", the last supermarket on the corner of - Bernardo Higgins and Bernardo a Alessandro, I think. They said they have them sometimes. There was a blackout for five hours during our stay but locals said that is not so common.

Notes from Nat:

- When in Coyhaique be sure to enjoy the bread and pizza shop called; La Tranquera Pan y Pizza (just North of the main plaza). It has a great selection of sourdough breads/Rye/whole-wheat loafs, cookies, real coffee and tasty pizza slices. ALSO don't miss the dry good store; Envasadora Aysen (45.57016° S, 72.06883° W), the good veg shop here (45.57730° S, 72.07038° W) and then the Unimarc is actually pretty good.

- My views are prejudiced against the beginning of this route bcs I was sick and not in a good mood but my thoughts at the time were; "If you want to "enjoy" section 32 then take the Las Horquetas option". I really didn't like all the sidehilling and felt you wouldn't miss out on much if you started at Horquetas. Also don't do what I did and pack twice as much as you need bcs Coyhaique "might" be the last place with good food (however it was 3-5x better than villa Castillo).

- The first tricky part was annoying bcs it was hard to get an edge (not that there is any edge left in my shoes). It was easier to walk up it and gradually cross, all in all it didn't feel dangerous. The second tricky part did feel dangerous to me bcs I went too far climbers left of the grass staircase and ended up having to traverse the short, steep and featureless slope to get back on track, a fall seemed easy and with bad consequences. The rock scramble at the boulder did not worry me but I would not have climbed it if it was wet bcs there is a lot of algae-like material on it and some of the handholds were sloppy.

- I would be very curious if one could make a new route that went up to this lake here; -45.94848, -72.07320, and then down either here; -45.95505, -72.08753 or along the ridge to here; -45.96914, -72.08724. It would be more vertical and longer but with possibly less sidehilling...

- The glacier on Variant E (6km return, half of it moraine walking) is nice but not really worth it, the lake on the other hand is 100% worth the short walk (3km return, flat river rock waking).

- The lake just North of Camping Bosque is also worth it if you can avoid the crowds. Both this lake and Variant E lake are technically CC but "well traveled" and cairned.

- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites, I recommend it. I got into an argument with a CONAF officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of CONAF I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts west of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, it is CC, obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.

- We both had to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but many going in opposite direction (~9am)

* '''2024-Jan-28 to 2024-Jan-31 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villa Cerro Castillo - Villa Frei / RR + Option 3 + Variant C + Variant M/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was another fantastic section but we don't have much to add to what has already been written. But we would still like to point out a few points:

1) At the Segundo campsite (also called Rio Turbio), mice gnawed our tent and our dry bag containing the food. It would be best to hang your food from the trees if you are sleeping at this campsite.

2) The large rock at -45.938145, -72.086171 can be avoided by doing 10 m of bush bashing just below the rock. This passage is much more visible going NOBO but it is also possible to take it going SOBO.

3) The little detour to Variant C is definitely worth it. The view of Lago Paloma and Lago Azul is truly incredible.

4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.

* '''2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres

* '''From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel'''

Villa cerro castillo - entrance Estero Parada - Laguna Duff - Sendero las Horquetas - North part of NP (CC) - Lago Paloma - Villa Frei.

One of my favourite section so far ! I had amazing weather and I enjoyed so much this stretch, even with few people on the sendero las Horquetas in the NP (not crowded, but obviously more than the usual sections of the GPT).

Entrance fees for 3 days was 16,000 CLP for me. I had no control and have seen no guardaparque during my hike.

I walked all the way up to see Laguna Duff (OPT3) definitely worth it in my opinion. Wonderful view, with still some pieces of ices floating on the Laguna, the back of Cerro Castillo and the reflects on the water were amazing. Easy to go there, as there is a trail.

The second one (OPT3A) is more tricky, no trail, and a lot of rolling stones. Beautiful too and of course, no people at all (I slept there, without tent, just on a big rock, that was incredible).

Then go up to the pass, it was a crazy hot day, for the first time since I'm in Patagonia, I regretted that it wouldn't be a little bit windy aha.

Laguna cerro castillo Is amazing. Second pass were very nice too. Bi. I passed it early on the morning, had some snow part, doable, but as it was morning, it was icy on some parts, so I putted my crampons and that was perfect. (But doable without).

Then easy trail until the end of the public part of NP (just after Segundo camping). After that the cross country part begun. Follow an old trail of the NP, some bush bashing during the forest part, and have to check often the GPS. Then you have to deal with all the rocks until the first pass.

Go down on a nice valley, and go up to the second pass. Tricky part, as described previously, is the big rock. It's maybe easier to do it NOBO because you descent it, and don't face it, which can be scary. But going on the grass part is the best way. Then follow the tree level, deal with rolling stones, and everything is gonna be alright. The récompense will be the amazing view on Lago Paloma (don't miss the Mirador).

I took the variant M to avoid the right of way conflict. No trouble at all on this way. You have to pass threw some gates. The last one, near a kind of central hydroelectric is the biggest, with camera and sign do not enter. Few people seen after this gate, and they were all very gentle and nice !

Anyway, I really loved this stretch ! As it's summertime at this time, I met a lot of chilenos in the NP, so happy to see even very young chilenos explore their outstanding country !

You have to be prepared to face a looooot of rolling stones on this section, sometimes it's like dancing on rocks. Can I say that the rolling stones make this stretch rock'n'roll ? Probably not.

Better to wait for good conditions. I can't imagine this section on a rainy and windy day !

* '''2024-Jan- 11 to 2024-Jan-13/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ Start in Las Horquetas and later RR/ Paulina'''

I started in las Horquetas, it was open even if on Conaf website this section is still closed, apparently they don't really update). When I was there ( 10 AM) nobody at the gate, so no charges. Later in the park nobody never asked me to show the entrance ticket. The same at the exit gate, they just asked me to check out ( even if I did not check in).
At the beginning of Las Horquetas trail, some very easy river crossing. Almost no people, only a few hikers on the campsite.
On Pass 32 [43.9/1470] still some soft snow, but I could cross it safetly.

Be careful on the ridge around pass 32 [ 53.5/1679] on very windy days.
I did not see any water around camping Los Porteadores, except this last section, water was available everywhere.

Beautiful and very scenic section!

* '''2023-12-29 to 2024-01-01 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Variant D & M / Roman'''

Took a Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei for 17.000$. Got another lift by someone who life's there to this point: -45.8737, -72.04342. Joined via Variant M to the RR. Camped at Camp {32} [23.6/1010]. Good place you have to Ford 2 times before the Camp and 1 times directly after it. Here the -45.93357, -72.07606 Clambering in steep terrain starts and is very challenging also in combination with snow. Very steep literally climbing up there here: -45.938145, -72.086171 especially with a backpack. I needed to go very slow and cautious with 3 point technique. After that you can follow the GPS and the Kerns to this point -45.973087, -72.102771. From there a old abandoned road goes all the way to the point where the Trail( Variant D) merges with the Sendero de Chile Las Horquetas at: X {32-D} [1.0/920]. On the trial are some parts which are not perfectly visible but with GPS no problem. There are some fallen trees and quite a few small trees on the trail. I wouldn't consider it Bush Bashing (BB) because you can just raise your arms in front of your face and walk trough it. So IMHO no BB on the route. As soon as you are at X {32-D} [1.0/920] it's a "touristy trail" compared with the other GPT parts. Therefor the condition is excellent. Camped at Segundo Camping -46.008184, -72.104121. Next day camped at Camping Los Porteadores -46.089085, -72.235431. Snow was neither on Pass {32} [43.9/1470] or Pass {32} [53.5/1679] a problem. Next day hiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. Not a single car on the street towards it so needed to hike. The RR avoids the Entrance Cerro Castillo Park (Estero Parada) there is one gate before accessing the street where you can just hop over.

Overall: really nice section and quite relaxing to have such a easy trail (the beginning is challenging due to the rock scramble). It's the most touristy part (2 groups a 7 people) but absolutely woth it. Really enjoyed it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-12 / 6 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Variant D + Variant F / Tom Pieper'''
An Uber from Cohayique to Villa Simpson is about 9.000 Peso. From there I easily found rides to Lago Elizalde. A older man told me that there was also a camino from Lago Elizalde to Lago Azul passing cerro sombrero a couple of years ago. I really liked the walking through the valley to lago desierto. It passes a beautiful farmland landscape sprinkled with little lush patches of forest and creeks. Camping is easy there. But if you want to speed up there are also cars from time to time and hitchhiking is possible. At S 45° 52.495 W 072° 16.913 is a little shelter surrounded by some old tractors and a big mate cup installation. A farmer passing by told me I am welcome to stay there. To reach lago desierto you have to climb a locked gate (well described by Kara Davis). I crossed lago desierto and camped at the isthmus between it and lago azul. There is a nice camp spot at waypoint Lake {32} [38.3/337] surrounded by old gooseberry bushes and an abandoned van. The central lodging building is collapsed so its seems to be an abandoned place now except the cattle. Next day I crossed lago azul. The wind increased dramatically forming up to 1 m waves. There are some emergency exits on the left even after the shore gets steeper after the settlers on the lefthand side. At the end of lago azul you reach a huge private hacienda on the isthmus, with a big park like forest and buildings within. I tried to sneak between the buildings but to reach the path to the mountains you finally have to pass a big meadow. There was a greenkeeper around and it was no problem for him to let me pass. The family was not around. The track to the mountains is steep and part of a big network of mountainbike trails. This network spans nearly the entire valley! I met six young chilenos who told me that they are working the summer to maintain the trails only for that family – I have never seen such a giant mountainbike network! Incredible how much effort and money must spend here only to satisfy a family’s hobby. The Chilenos were very friendly and even turned back to offer me a ride to the end of the valley as rain increased but I kept walking. This track is in really good conditions up to the bush bashing section. And here comes the problem: 1.) the bush bashing is wrong annotated. In reality it starts for 1.2 km at the end of the annotated section 2.) the track is mostly gone were it reaches the river bed. Landslides have washed away a big part. Don’t cross the landslide! It seems super instable! When you have forded the riverbed at the landslide don’t put on your shoes, yet. The following part has turned into swamp land. I suggest to make the entire 1.2 km in your fording footwear. After that the track to the las horquetas trail is mostly overgrown or blocked by trees but still visible. It was pretty hard for me as temperatures dropped to 4 °C and at this point it had not stopped raining for 48 hr. In bad weather that’s definitely no fun. The ranger hut was my salvation as it was abandoned but open and had a stove and even some firewood. The next day the weather was perfect and I continued towards cerro Castillo. There had been recent work around Camping Rio Turbio and the track is still in good condition. Paso Penón has heaps of snow and I found myself sinking to the hips from time to time. But in good weather it is ok. The views from the pass and the following valley even outcompeted the view from laguna castillo. After the paso penón the rest is fine. I used Variant F to descend. As mentioned before it now follows a different way in the end due to right of way conflict and you reach the street at approximately half way between villa cerro Castillo and the national park entrance.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''05-Apr-2023 / Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

We really enjoyed this one. It's definitely worth waiting for good weather, not only for safe traverse of the steep part in the northern part of the park and following obstacles that are quite demanding but also for the views that were just incredible.

Starting from Villa Frei in the late afternoon, we made it on that day to the turn before Lago La Paloma, where we camped right behind a fence, before a little river, that you need to cross to follow the RR. There are 2 settlements, but still far enough, so no problem. You have to cross one fence and a gate on the way up. To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side. Crossing them will take you directly to RR, so no bush-bashing is necessary. From there, the trail is pretty straightforward. We liked the view from Option B viewpoint and in good conditions it must be a perfect spot for camping, definitely doable in one day. The steep traverse didn't feel that dangerous for us, but we had really good conditions. The next obstacle, already described by others, is at the end of the traverse. We followed there a small ridge that will take you to the beginning of the grass parts. It's a little steep, but doable. From there we followed the grass parts, which create almost 'stairs' allowing you to climb up. It's again steep, but you can use your hands to pull yourself up, holding the grass patches. After that is the last challenging part, a rock that you need to climb over. We got there already after sunset and without an option to explore the best and safest way over, we decided to follow the old overgrown trail, that descends down without the need to climb over the rock. It seemed to be hard in the beginning, but after we got through the first few trees (without any leaves, just branches), we found a little strip without them, that takes you all the way down to the river, where we camped. It took us around 15 min to get down, so it might be a good alternative. From there you just need to walk through a little part of the forest and then continue by the river, so you are actually avoiding also the descent down, which some described as challenging as well.

After the first marked pass and descent in rocky terrain, the CC part connects to an old trail, that later becomes a MR. The connection was easy to find by following the GPS. We had no problems passing around the rangers house, again by following the track files, at first through the forest and later around the river. From there the trail connects to the official way which makes navigation easy. We spent the night in the official campsite around 2 km before Laguna Carro Castillo, which is the only one open. There were 5-6 other tents, no ranger. The next day the weather got way way worse, which made us skip the last pass and go down from the laguna via one of the official routes. We met a ranger on the way up, pointing us to the official trail around yellow cairns, to sign off from the park. With no intention to pay on our way from the park, we actually followed some old trail (according to the old signs we met) that took us to the main road, right in front of the bridge. We had to cross one fence, but no other problem. It's a faster and safe way from the park.

* '''5 to 7 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO / 3 days'''

Amazing section! I was worried about the tricky part, but sticking to the gpx track it didn't feel dangerous to me. Though I did have to leave the track to find easier ways around the cliffs.

There weren't any buses south out of Coyhaique on Sunday (except maybe early morning?). I ended up taking an Uber to villa frei, for a bearable 14000 pesos. The road walk was beautiful except for the wind trying to blow me into the cars. I caught a ride to Lago Monreal, from where I walked back up to variant L and then to the 23.6 campsite.

I didn't have any right of way trouble, I just had to pass through a few unlocked gates with no people or buildings in sight. There were even a few groups of day hikers who passed by my camp on the way to the Lago Paloma mirador (variant B - must see!).

I also took variant D up to the glacier lake, worth it if it fits your schedule. I didn't have time to keep going up to the glacier itself, it looked like steeper rocky cross country.

Even in the touristy parts the trail was surprisingly slow and rocky. I ran into a few rangers, who look like normal hikers except with red and white baseball hats. They were ok with me not having a ticket once I explained my weird route.

* '''15.02.23 -18.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO'''
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo

We hitchhiked from Coyhaique to Lago Paloma and started walking around 13:30 pm following the main path.

The trail at the beginning is pretty good. At the junction with the option at km 17,5 you can walk further uphill along the fence for a couple of meters to enter the fence through a gate. This option is not in the gpx files. We decided to follow that to avoid the settlers after all.Then you can follow the dirtroad through two more gates until you reach a fence that you have to jump to the right to get to a meadow with beehives. There is another gate there and then you reach the main route again. In total we only had to jump two fences.

Then we followed the main route. Soon after we went through the gate of the National park Cerro Castillo and we (unfortunately) met two guardians of the park. After some back and forth they made us turn around, telling us that this path is closed and we have to enter the park via the main entrance and pay the 30.000 clp. So we had to take the option to las Horquetas.

After a few good km on a dirtroad, the path of option 1 gets bad. It seems like it hasn't been used for a long time. It was often hard to find and involved some bushbashing. It took us quite some time to get through there. Once you are at the river it gets much better. We forded the river next to the entrance to avoid the detour until Horquetas. The option was not very nice. Mostly just walking in the forest with BB so we would definetly recommend to try the main route.

The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets. The park guardians tell you that there is no water crossing both passes and you have to carry it from the official camps, which is simply not true. There is only no water after Laguna Castillo.

At the exit (following the RR) we had to register us again. From there we planned to hitchhike to Villa Cerro Castillo, but there were no cars passing by. In the afternoon/evening it's probably easier to get a ride, because lots of cars parked at the exit. We would recommend Option E to avoid the dull roadwalk to Villa Cerro Castillo.

We stayed at Camping El Rincon, which was only 4.000 clp p.p., with no electricity, but the owner washed our clothes after we asked and we received it dry the next morning :)

* '''18 to 21 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT32 RR SOBO / 3.5 days'''

Route: Villa Freí - Lago La Paloma - north part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo - Las Horquetas trail (south part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo) - Villa Cerro Castillo
First off I want to say that I think this section deserves a 5 on the Attractiveness Scale. It is simply mind-blowingly beautiful and definitely on par with other sections further north that have a 5 on this scale. I also think the Difficulty Rating should be upped to a 5 as well, due to the technical, and arguably dangerous at times, section in the northern part of the park on the Regular Route. Wish I had someone with me during this stretch, but oh well, such is life.

I was lucky and caught a hitch most of the way to Lago La Paloma on the first day. It was hot and I don't think the road walk has any water sources until you get to the end. I then followed the new RR which bypasses the problematic right-of-way settler in the Lago Monreal area. However, this new detour is not fun. It involves climbing over (or crawling through/under) multiple barbed wire fences. I lost count after the 5th or 6th one. Also, the path and cross-country area are full of thorny plants, they got everywhere on my pack and clothing. I think it would just be better to take Option 32-L and chat with the settler instead to try and get through. Once you reach RH-MR-V {32} [18.9+4.7], it's all good, easy walking until the camp at 23.6 km.

I reccomend taking Option 32-A after the campsite instead of the CC straight through the cow pasture. It is wet and muddy, whereas 32-A remains dry and easy to follow in the forest at the edge of the meadow. I also strongly recommend taking the short detour to the mirador at the end of Option 32-B. The views there of the cliffs and mountains surrounding Lago La Paloma are incredible. You could even camp there if you brought sufficient water and the weather is calm.

Now for the difficult part in the 8-km cross-country section. This section was physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. The first pass is at S 45° 55.740', W 072° 04.501'. It is easy walking up past the treeline into the alpine up to this point. The first challenge is a steep and unstable scree traverse, which begins at S 45° 56.019', W 072° 04.567'. Follow the GPS tracks here. At first I tried to go lower, right along the treeline, which was a big mistake that got me stuck in a terrible gully of slippery hard-packed sand. Very treacherous and scary trying to traverse it on all fours. After that ordeal, I scrambled back up to the altitude of the GPS tracks. This first scree traverse lasts about a km, the rocks are loose and it is very steep. I was tense and went very slowly. Got harassed by tábanos the whole way, but at least the weather was good.

Then at S 45° 56.288', W 072° 05.184', you reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side. Figuring out how to get up that cliff was hard for me. I left my pack at the bottom and tried climbing up various different ways with no success, only tiring myself out and getting myself in precarious situations where I could barely climb back down. I finally figured out the best way was to try and get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully.

The next big obstacle is at S 45° 56.320', W 072° 05.446'. Like others have written, this is the vertical rock wall that spans up and down the mountain and that you have to climb over. I scouted ways up without my pack at first, trying to find the easiest way. At least with this rock wall, the handholds and footholds are solid — no slippery gravel/sand/scree. But it does require actual rock climbing moves. If you fall you would likely tumble down the mountain, so please be very careful. A light backpack makes it relatively safer and easier.

On the other side of this wall, you can finally see where the trees end, and the lovely river you are supposed to climb down to reach. But there is still more scree to traverse here, and it is slow and unstable again. I tried taking a shortcut down a shallow gully filled with grass. I figured it would be safer than the rocks, but it was very steep and got unexpectedly muddy at one point, and I ended up slipping and sliding down the mountainside about 10 meters before being able to stop myself. Didn't get seriously hurt, just bruised up, but it really shook me and just added to the stress and fear of this whole section. So I guess my advice here is to again follow the GPS tracks across the scree and go down gradually to the river instead of trying to go straight down.

Once you reach the riverbed, it is easy walking to the top of the pass, with occasional cairns (and some good swimming holes). Down the south side of the pass, there are still a couple scree sections, but not nearly as bad as before. Lots of boulders, so slow going, but at least they felt more solid.

As Martin Lizondo has written, finding the start of RH-MR-V {32} [34.1+1.7] is tricky. It is not a minor road, it is an old footpath. The cross-country section ends at a creek as it turns into a high and steep waterfall. You have to cross the creek and look up to find a faint, overgrown trail that goes up into the forest. Once you find it though, it is simple enough to follow. There is a stretch though of several hundred meters where it is more of a bushwhack than anything else, nature has taken over.

I followed the regular route that cuts through the forest to Río Turbío, I assume this is to avoid the ranger station nearby. The "bushbashing" section is easy through a mature forest, and then you just follow the bouldery riverbank.

Once you get to the popular Las Horquetas trail, everything is easy until the end of the section. Some snow at the top of the first pass (Paso Peñón), but very manageable. The views of the saw-toothed mountains, lakes, and glaciers are spectacular. Despite reports of the park being "overrun," I only met a handful of other hikers in this trail, and most of them after Laguna Castillo. No rangers at all.

I think the Regular Route in its current configuration avoids the blue payment tent at the end of the park trail, but I didn't know that when I passed through, and ended up just following the riverbank down to the minor road to be safe (and avoid paying the ridiculous 30,000 clp access fee). The road walk to Cerro Castillo was Easy and uneventful.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR SOBO / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

We started at Lago La Paloma, taking the bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (leaves at 8:15,15:30,17:30&19:30 from monday to friday and at 8:00 and 14:00 on saturday (no bus on sunday)). Then we hitchiked to the lake without problem and we camped there. Ready to start in the morning the next day.

Day 1 - Campamento Rio Turbio - 26.5km - +1800m/-1200m A big day but we hadnt the choice : heavy rain was announced for the next day... Cross country is demanding, better follow the tracks all the way long. A great camp site if you want to split this day is at the end of Option B. No water, windy but incredible view. The waypoint camp before is nice too.

Day 2 - Campamento El Bosque - 10km - +800m/-800m The 2 camps sites on the GPT at47.8 and at 50.3 are now forbidden. The new campsite is approx at km 49, in the middle. There is guardaparques, but no need to show the permit for us.

Day 3 - Cerro Castillo - 11km - +800m/-1500m The pass after Cerro Castillo was closed due to the wind. If you want to go to the other side, you have to get down at the park entrance and to go up again at the other entrance. We just went to the town. The regular route going down from there, from the Cerro Castillo, is not the one on the GPT. Actually, it goes more on the west side. At the end, there is a guardaparque, we checked out (even though we didn’t checked in) but no need to pay. Fortunately. Luck was with us.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR NOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

We've walked all section 32 from Villa Frei to Villa Cerro Castillo. The part from Lago Paloma to Rio Turbio is very difficult and might be even dangerous (especially in bad weather). The CC travers on the stones (in our case with strong wind and snow) was the hardest part. The MR leading down to the valley is partially overgrown. The second part is well marked with good camping possibilities. After heavy rains on Sunday 25th, the park has been closed for more than a week. There are 2 alerts on the road (see above).

* '''Feb 17 RR 3 days SOBO Frank'''

Walked from Villa Frei. After about 12KM there is a food truck next to the road. Owners live there so should open for you. The owner of the private land wasn't there so had no access issues. You can camp in a big meadow @ 1250 metres or in good weather at a pass @ about 1325 metres (not marked on track file) just before the difficult CC section begins. Followed Veronica's advice to get up the gully on grass which worked well, thanks Veronica. There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline. The second bypass is not very obvious but stay at the treeline & you will get through easily. After the pass, descending scree you come to a waterfall. Go left into the forest immediately before the waterfall - you may see a small cairn marking the spot. Just footprints at first but pick up a small trail as you go in. Leaving the park the RR to the left goes through private land. The optional route straight down is now the main trail, it goes down to a checkpoint just before the road. Checkpoint is at a stile over a fence so can't be avoided. It is run as a private 'concession' from CONAF. The workers were friendly & didn't charge me anything. However next year the concession will be run by a different company so depends who is there.

* ''' Note on Options 4, 7 and 8:'''
GPT32 Option 4: is the gravel road to Lago Elizalde and Lago el Desierto. A subsidized bus travels this route 2 or 3 times per week.
GPT32 Option 7 and 8: Are routes published on Wikiloc and/or www.suda.Io. This means someone took these routes in the last years but not much more information are available.
(Source Jan Dudeck: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1498106867361861/ )

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 05-07, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

We continued into this section straight from the previous one - 31H and the start of it, about first 16km, is like the whole previous section - dirt road. We hiked about 5 of those 16km and hitched the rest which I think was possible quite easy because it was weekend and a lot of cars with families were going to the Lago La Paloma.

The interesting part started once we were at the gate after crossing the outflow of Lago Monreal. The big sign was posted there stating that this is not some Sendero de Chile and that passing through here is strictly forbidden. We saw a guy at the gate when we were approaching, but as it was lunch time for us we stayed at the stream. Afterwards the guy was gone and there was no phone signal to call the nr. that Martin Lizondo has provided. After considering options of different routes we decided to keep it cool and climbed over the gate with fingers crossed. There were houses a few hundred meters up the road, but nobody seemed to be at home at that point, perhaps working in the field somewhere in the back, so we walked through the forbidden land without anyone intercepting, luck was with us. A few more gates later we climbed up into the forest and finally the Cerro Castillo National park with a big old welcoming sign. We stayed at the first marked campsite at 22,7km, there is a stream.

Next morning as we were having our breakfast about 30 cows showed up and were completely dazzled by our presence. They stared at us for about 15min until they finally relaxed a bit, but not fully. As we were packing our camp some sudden movement must have scared them and they all went running for their lives as if a Kraken himself was after them, silly cows, we thought. Once we were all packed and ready to go we crossed the stream into the next meadow, and saw all the cows about 200m to our left. I am not exactly sure how cows work, but as soon as they saw us they organized a gang and all of them started running right at us. We of course were standing our ground so the cows would stop just 5m from us and look all tough. I would try to scare them away by counter attack in the form of a shouting, hiking pole waving lunatic. It worked to some extent, as we could slowly walk out of it, but the cows kept persistently be really close and walk/run at us. I guess they were trying to protect their pasture, maybe someone can enlighten me about cow-dynamics.

After the great battle of 2022, we disappeared in the forest and enjoyed the nice forest path while it lasted. Once out of the three line the path disappeared so we more or less followed the GPS marking. Neither of our maps showed the mentioned old path descending down into the valley, it was actually matching with the GPS, more or less. Up to the first pass, which is not marked, but is at about 26,8km the cross country was easy and then as mentioned before it got pretty difficult. If it would just be steep scree slope it would be alright, but this one had hard packed sand under the scree or sometimes no scree on it so it was very slippery (in dry conditions). Lots of prayers went to the Gods of Friction which helped us with traversing the treacherous slopes, with plenty of chances to become a statistic. I don’t think that that traverse is possible in wet conditions, not without crampons. And as for every good cake there is always a cherry on top, which was a little rock climbing session, which I personally didn’t mind, but I am not sure other hikers would appreciate. After that we still had to descend a steep scree down to the river. If there is a potential trail or option to go down the valley after the pass and then follow the river bank up, I think it is definitely a better, faster and safer option, especially if weather is not favorable. And looking from above down the valley it seemed like a feasible option to follow the river as the river itself was easily crossable and we didn’t spot any cliffs there, maybe next time.

After reaching the river at the valley bottom the way up to the second pass was easy and straight forward, even though still “sin sendero”. The way down from the pass is steep and bouldery but not dangerous and after a short bit some first signs of an old trail can be noticed, some cairs appear. Then once the trail gets down to the tree line there are a few bushy places, but nothing too bad and the closer to the actual trail you get the better it becomes. We also somewhat followed the GPS track but stayed more in the forest rather than beach to avoid the ranger hut.

Once we made it to the Las Horquetas trail all our worries were behind us and we could enjoy the nice trail and magnificent views. I don’t think I have ever seen tree line ending almost at the edge of the glacier in Europe it was happening a century ago, pretty cool stuff. We camped at the “segundo camping” with many other hikers, none doing the GPT though. And an interesting thing we observed was that people would just drink straight from the silty glacier stream without filtering or treating their water at all. Observation was made of different groups of people at different campsites. Is that a Chilean thing? Very impressive gut, if they can do it, unless ignorance is a bliss or they knew something that we didn’t.

Nevertheless, two more mountain passes and we were heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo, with crowds of day-hikers that had come up to the Mirador Cerro Castillo. From there we actually didn’t follow the GPS track but headed down straight to the town. The ticket office with the park official is actually around this area: (46º 6.7520' S, 72º 12.0032' W). And the trail leading there is the official trail. The one that seemed on the map like the official, was actually not in use, not sure why. The satellite view on Gaia and info on the maps is somehow outdated. We tried to sneak past the office to avoid all explaining we had to do, but it’s kind of strategically placed so it wasn’t possible and we ended up just talking to the girl that was making sure everyone is checking out of the park. We had to pay 18.000 pesos per person which is the ticket for foreigners that want to go up to the mirador. We didn’t spill the beans about camping in the park and our small backpacks kept the suspicion low, so in the end it all worked out pretty good. From there it is still almost 5km to the town on a very dusty road, but with all the day hikers leaving a hitch was not a problem.

The town is really nice with plenty of shops and accommodations options. The only thing we didn’t manage to find was the threaded gas canister, but we found a few half-empty ones left in the Nordic Patagonia mess tent.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2021-Dec-18 to 2021-Dec-22 / Option 6 (Valle Balboa), Regular Route (Packrafting Lago Desierto and Lago Azul) and Option 9 (Packrafting Lago Paloma) / Northbound and Westbound / Meylin and Jan'''

General Remark:
This route provides an attractive alternative to the overrun Cerro Castillo trail. The popular Cerro Castillo trail is also highly regulated (obligatory camp sites, closed in suboptimal weather) and costly (27’000 CLP entrence fee) therefore this alternative should be considered by hikers and packrafters.
At the upper terminus of the Valle Balboa is a 5 km long and 400 m wide pasture at an altitude of 1100 m. To utilize this pasture for cattle summer grazing, settlers build a 18 km long trail through the forrest along the Rio Balboa.
This very scenic Valle Balboa trail was hiked and published on Wikiexplora by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn. But the southbound descent down to Rio Ibañez was made by climbing down with a rope in very steep terrain because the location of the descending trail was not yet documented.
Therefore we investigate this route in the opposite direction to search the southern trailhead to incorporate a feasible hiking traverse from Rio Balboa to Rio Ibanez in the GPT network.

Summary of Northbound Investigation:
Tobias Hellwig suggested where the southern trailhead may be located. A detailed analysis of satellite images and elevation profiles supported this and a local resident confirmed this assumption. After an hour of searching we found the southern trailhead. This trail terminates at a 400 m by 60 m pasture at abandoned camp (“Camp A”) from where no trail appears to continue.
To continue through the last section of forrest we bush-bashed through very steep terrain and continued trail-less through a rather open forrest until reaching open terrain (“Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez”). From this point we traversed the open terrain on a slightly higher route than recorded by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn and meet the previously recorded route at the descent into the Valle Balboa (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”).
From this point we followed closely the previously recorded route in the Valle Balboa from where we packrafted westbound over Lago Desierto, Lago Azul and Lago Paloma.

Recommendation for Southbound Hikers and Packrafters:
Hikers that wish to bypass the Cerro Castillo trail may either road-walk 25.5 km from Villa Frei via Lago Elizalde to Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 4) or take the bus from Coyhaique to Lago Caro and leave the bus just after the bridge over Rio Paloma.
Alternatively hikers may walk along the lakes Lago Paloma, Lago Azul and Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 5) but bypass the buildings at the trail start to avoid a right-of-way dispute (see yellow arrow on the image that first follows the beach of Lago Paloma and than sneakers in between some trees to the trail).
Packrafters best paddle the three lakes to get to Rio Balboa. Note that the predominant wind direction is westbound.
After reaching the western end of Lago Desierto hikers and packrafters closely follow the route of GPT32 Option 6. Note that the multiple river crossings of Rio Balboa may become impassable after heavy rain and are generally easier in the morning (due to snow and glacier melting water that reaches it maximum in the evening).
After reaching open terrain at Kilometer 24 (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”) hikers and packrafters traverse 5 km open terrain to the waypoint “Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez” while enjoying the wide open view into Valle Ibanez. Starting from Kilometer 24 do not follow any more track “EXP-OP-TL-V {32-06} [0.0+30.6]”.
After entering the rather open forrest best follow the 8 waypoints of “Proposed Improvement for Investigation”. This bush-bashing route probably avoids the very steep descent that we struggled to get up with our heavy packrafting gear. When reaching the trail (either “Record 1” or “Record 2”) follow the generally well-visible and well-maintained trail to “Exit Forrest Valle Ibanez”.
Note that that “Record 1” and “Record 2” includes all our searching, so don’t take these tracks as an instruction but use your common sense to follow only the relevant parts.
When reaching Rio Ibanez packrafters can float on the river towards Cerro Castillo while hikers must walk along the northern side of Rio Ibanez to Cerro Castillo.
As an add-on hikers and packrafters may take GPT32 Option 3 to visit a less frequented trail of Parque Cerro Castillo.

(Note: taken from here https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1256244101548140/ - now the options are part of the GPT Track files, the Facebook post includes pictures.)

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Section 32, Option 7: Valle Balboa. Southbound. 11 days (including waiting out a snow storm). Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.'''

After walking Section 35 we emerged in Cochrane to a world changed by the virus. We retreated to the now unfriendly Chili Chico and caught the ferry across to Ibáñez in the morning. For my mum and sister, getting back to Santiago to catch a flight home had been the priority, but on the way they shifted more to the stance I was taking: what was the point? Get stuck in Australia, or here? Patagonia didn't seem all that bad, and apart from facemasks and hand sanitiser, there were no shortages like back home. By the time we reached Coyhaique we'd all decided to stay a week or so to hatch a plan. We met up with Aldo and camped in his backyard for almost a week. I helped build his house a bit, but time was mostly filled with playing chess, dice, cards and guitar. The atmosphere seemed to encourage a lethargic state, blurring the days together and bending time. Finally however, we packed and walked into the town centre to make a start on the interesting option #007 of Section 32 through Valle Balboa, (traversing roughly from Lago Desierto to Río Ibáñez). With the virus and public transport on hold, it seemed unlikely the bus to Villa Freí (that we took last time for the RR of Section 32) would be running. We asked a taxi driver for a quote to drive us out. We grabbed some more supplies, and then caught a taxi with a much friendlier driver to Lago Elizalde ($15k). The driver showed us a great public camping spot on the shore of the lake. There were many established camp sites back from [close to] the beach. It was such a nice spot that we decided to lay back and spend the afternoon and night there.

In the morning, we walked the road to Río Paloma, scoring a lift for 5ks or so. We camped by the river not far before the end of the road.

In the morning we walked the last bit of the public road to where it ends at the very rickety bridge over Río Mogote. There is a nice little camping spot here (-45.91100, -72.31823). Climbing over the locked gate, we walked the private road to the ford. We tossed up visiting Lago Desierto and the people living next to it, but with the virus decided against it. This meant we didn't actually have to cross the river, instead locating the old road to the south. (The track files follow the road, but it is no longer used by vehicles and it is actually easier to head back down the main road a couple of hundred metres to where a cattle trail exists (-45.91601, -72.30806)).

Following this distinct road for some time, it seemed to be used for horse riding tours as there were coloured signs like "Spanglish" and "Toobooku" on the side. You will soon reach the gate included in the track files. Here there is also access to a bridge across Estero Balboa. It looks like you can then access trails most of the way up to Cerró Negro. This might be interesting if someone wants to explore.

A couple hundred metres after the gate the old road ends and an obvious trail continues to a miskept farmhouse. Continue along the well defined trail that gets a bit scrubby/overgrown before entering the forest. The trail is then very well maintained although quite muddy in spots (I could see it being quite bad after rain). You will need to ford a tributary not marked in the track files (-45.95592, -72.35114). Shortly afterwards is a junction (-45.95654, -72.35216). The route up the side valley could be explored if someone wants - we went only a short way to a corral. The track will dip back down to the river where there is an established camp (-45.97039, -72.35461). Continuing up the valley, there are many more established camps - the best are generally in close proximity to the fords.

The first time you cross the estero is about here: (-45.98105, -72.36205). There is only one ford, not two as the track files indicate. At the next couple of fords, the actual track deviates slightly from the track files. If you follow the current track files, you will avoid crossing the river at all, but will end up bush bashing briefly. We crossed the next two fords, but by staying on the west side of the river they should also be easily avoidable.

The trail exits the forest (-46.02116, -72.42538)(the camp marked in the track files here is a swamp - go further up the valley!) from where it is cross country walking, not actually a trail as indicated. We camped next to the puesto which incorporates some pieces of a crashed plane (we found another piece whist exploring, but not the actual crash site). The route up to the Laguna Campana is also open and straight forward.

We waited out a rainy day only to wake to a snow storm the next!... and the next!. We ended up waiting 4 nights experimenting with some different bread recipes whilst we waited out the inclement weather.

Finally a sunny day! Continue up the valley, CC walking past an old corral. At the Nacimiento del Estero Balboa you again briefly enter the trees. Like the previous marked camp, again this whole area was very swampy and I didn't see a suitable place to camp. The camp included in the track files is in the middle of a swamp! We picked up fragments of a track heading up through the trees, but I think it is very vague or overgrown. That said, we had nearly a foot of snow in places so we could have easily missed things! There is a very obvious section of track here : (-46.05648, -72.47298). You'll quickly exit the trees (-46.05923, -72.47005) and start a long CC section in the alpine. We found some sections of trail, but for us it was mostly cross country walking. Plenty of water options the whole way.

When you enter the forest after completing the alpine section (-46.08687, -72.43537), you will be bush bashing for a long time! There was no discernible track even when we criss-crossed over the track files searching for it (no snow here anymore). Approaching the deep gorge, I decided to lead us a different, less steep way. This worked well and we camped at a very nice spot by the stream at the bottom (-46.09414, -72.42582).

The next day we were debating simply following the river down (I wish we had!). Instead, we headed straight up the other side of the gorge. We located part of an old track here (-46.09685, -72.42463) but quickly lost it as we passed through the saddle (I think maybe it continues north?). Rejoining the suggested investigation route (EXP-OP-TL-I@32-07-#003), there is a good stream (-46.10202, -72.42403) and some camping on its banks.

After some horrible bush bashing, we finally made it to a ravine gashing steeply down the mountain (-46.10598, -72.41534). There were many drops and it was impossible to go directly down. We later found out that the only other party to do this part had a rope! I can't really recommend going down here [and my sister can't recommend it at all! - "This is shit!"] Again, I'd recommend taking the main valley. The climbs we did were much more difficult than those on the northern part of Section 32 RR that people complain about. Also, if doing this option, it would be much easier travelling north! You could also consult the settlers on a better route. We finally reached the bottom where it opens up after about ~6hrs!

Continuing, if you do follow EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, the track files indicate there is a trail, but it is not quite so. There are CC sections and a labyrinth of cattle trails. You will need to use them to your advantage where they exist, and leave them when they go the wrong way. We went this way for a little while, but then tried following a primary cattle track that seemed to be heading directly down to the river... but we got stopped by a swamp (-46.11623, -72.41080). Continuing along EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, you will get CC walking from the woods (after a cliff) about here: (-46.11546, -72.42372) If we were there again we would follow EXP-OP-CC-A@32-07-#004 down past the settler to the river. It then looked easy to walk along the river north to the cable car.

The cable car: Don't use this by yourself! Don't use it if you are only two! Use it with three people minimum! I can't stress this enough. There is a lot of fiction and the locals we talked to here don't even consider it safe. They used the boat which has its own steel cable allowing you to tack across with relative ease. You will get wet feet if using the boat.

Taking the cable car, we only just made it across with one in the car and two hauling on the rope, and at one point it looked like my sister might get stranded on the far side (she had a nightmare that night!).

Carretera Austral: We waited the entire day by the Carretera Austral. Finally catching a colectivo late in the afternoon. With the virus, it was hard/imposible to hitchhike. We paid an inflated price ($3kpp) for transport to Cerró Castillo.

* '''2020-March-6 / Ty & America / 4.5 Days SOBO RR. Start @ El Blanco'''

We started in El Blanco, opting to hike by Lago Montreal, which was pretty nice. No traffic though, so if you’re wanting a hitch the regular start in Villa freí may be a better option. Settlers in Lago Montreal are super friendly. There’s a bit of water there as you pass by the lake. We camped there. I recommend going further to the marked camp though because the next day is a big challenge. RH-CC-A@32-25.2+7.9 Is the Cruz of the section. After this all good. I do not recommend doing this unless you’re very comfortable on your feet and have a lightweight pack.

-stick to the treeline/marked path on this. The traversing is tough, but completely doable. 2-3 km in is the gully with the very difficult climb. Keep the the grassy patch, getting to the base of it was the most dangerous part for us. Very slippery rock. I had America drop her pack. High risk, but I was MUCH more comfortable.

-about a k after is the second dangerous area. This is a straight rock wall that spans all the way up& down the mountain. The only way through is to climb around. I checked below it and didn’t find a way through the trees. I took both Sanita & America’s packs through this section; as again, it’s very high risk..with an actual climbing move involved. Again, it’s important you’re very comfortable with your pack to get through these parts.

After these dangerous sections we were wiped out and camped in the valley before the pass. Lots of places to camp with good water. Be aware of slight rockfall risk. There’s an amazing place to camp with ideal conditions at the top of the pass.

Going on, all smooth, both marked camps on the way up the second pass are actually closed...there’s an open camp right between the two.

Amazing places to camp up by Laguna Castillo.

We snuck around the riverbed once we saw the blue tent at the bottom (where you might have to pay) and got by with no problems.

* '''Jan 2020 GPT32 South 7days / Felix'''

Coyhaique to Villa Freí: There is a bus from the bus terminal in Coyhaique to Villa Freí. From there it was a hot dusty road.

Accessing the park : You have to pass through 4 private properties to enter the first sector of the park. We met some people. Had short friendly chats, but no problems with access. Just before you enter the park (where there are two trail options) there is easy access to the river via a cow trail. However water in general was no issue and I didn't carry water for the entire 7 days through the park.

The camp site used to be an official campsite before the sector was closed due to access problems. The dunny is in great shape.

Through the first sector : The trail is in great shape until after the mirador. You then cut upwards into the alpine which is also easy walking. After passing through a saddle, you contour around above the treeline. This is the most difficult part of the section. Quite a bit of step scree traversing. Not for everyone. Once you drop into the valley waking is again easier. There are some occasional cairns that become more and more frequent as you drop into the other valley. As you contour left an intermittent trail is evident. When you enter the lenga forest (-45.97321, -72.10278) there is a great trail down that turns into a road here : (-45.97886, -72.10358) (Jan: maybe you want to update the track files to reflect this?) Then is road walking to join the popular walk.

Popular sector of Cerró Castillo : There are some side trips not included in the track files. They're on the map you get. Note that the old Bosque site (-46.06197, -72.16016) and La Tetera (-46.07200, -72.18390) are now closed. You can not camp there. For most people this means camping at the new el Bosque : (-46.06418, -72.16964)(Jan : maybe you want to update the track files?) Get to Laguna Cerró Castillo before 12 to beat the walkers heading up for the day. But this shouldn't be an issue as you need to cross the pass early : an important thing we would have liked to know is that the pass (-46.08030, -72.21103) can be closed in the afternoon due to strong winds. There is literally a ranger there that can turn people around. Not much water over the pass either. And the poza cerca mirador doesn't look welcoming. Carry water here. In the next valley there were more rangers and we saw some people get checked for permits. It's a shame this park is now being comercialalised :(

Getting back to Coyhaique : Not much traffic. The last bus heads back at 6pm

I'll try upload some map photos and a breakdown of the entrance fees when I get the photos off my camera.

Cheers, Felix.

* '''2020-Jan-18 and 19 / Regular Hiking Southbound / Martin Lizondo'''

The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge. I met other day hikers going to « El Mirador ». Snow was easy at the passes. The trail was in good conditions until the cross country. There are two spots which I consider dangerous, so I don’t recomend doing this section alone: 1) the gps tracks passes through a very vertical rocky (nearly climbing). I was scared and I can’t recommend doing it, except you asume this risk. I could see later in a map that the original route went all way down in the valley through lenga forest, but if there was a trail it’s invisible now. 2) When the cross country leaves the tree line and becomes a small trail into the lenga forest at 45º 58' 23,54" S, 72º 6' 10,02" O (“minor road” starts later, despite the gps track info); it’s very stepy and unmaintained. I made a mistake and started to follow the stream all way down, but you have to look up and search the beginning of the hidden path. It’s very vertical and easy to fell down, because of recent land slides. Be extremely carefull. The rest of Cerro Castillo from Las Horquetas is well maintained, beautifull and enjoyable. Cons: Lots of people. When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu'''

No technical difficulties in the park, just following the trail and enjoying the views.

To follow the GPT northbound, leave the parc trail to go north. It is an "old sendero" in the forest, but well maintained and easy to follow during the beginning (it is marked on maps of the parc). In this direction, no problem to leave the forest in a safe spot, but southbound, looking behind, seemed hard to find the entrance of the forest and of the safe trail ! No technical difficulties until the first pass, rocky terrain like the rest of the park.

The dangerous part is indeed between the 2 passes. You dont go in the valley in front of you but follow the altitude line until the pass that you see at the right side of the valley. Very steepy rolling stones path. I was a little bit afraid. I tried to be smarter than the tracks, trying more uphill... this was a dangerous mistake that took me long to repair and go back to the tracks. There are indeed two river crossing (no dangerous waterstream) but they are circled by cliffs, so not easily crossable.
The track follow mostly the tree line (I.e the separations between the little trees and the stones) So my recommendations :
- follow the gps tracks : they follow the tree line who is safer with a solid ground and grass. Sometimes you have to cross the stones, no choice, so go slowly, choose your paces wisely and it's doable. Try to aim for the grounds of grass in the middle, which are solid, or the stones with foam on them, which mostly didn't move for a while. For the rivercrossing, it aims a good spot with no need to climb down or up.
- choose a good weather day : for me it was sunny and no wind, so perfect day, and it was already mentally hard (not speaking of the horseflies getting you crazy during the hard moments !). I wouldn't try it with rain or big wind in this river of rolling stones.
- if you don't feel it, easy escape by the normal trail of the parc

However, I can assure that the prize for the effort, going northbound, is amazing !! But I won't spoil !
After the second pass, no technical difficulties, you find a Conaf trail easily, and I even cross some tourists with a guide.

* '''2019-Nov-29/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 3days / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route with OH-MR-V (Villa Cerro Castillo to Las Horquetas)'''

The section follows the rather popular tourist Hiking route Las Horquetas for the first two days, meaning there will be less solitude but also rather well maintained trails. The national park and the region around Cerro Castillo was very impressive, we especially enjoyed to take all the side trails and visit the numerous beautiful glacier lagoons. The only unpleasant part of the hike was the organization of the national park. The exorbitant high entrance fees are in no relation to the other parks, which is due to a high ratio of private land in the area but makes the park rather unattractive for tourists. some rangers seemed poorly informed and couldn't give much information (e.g. insisted that passes were "closed" and only after asking numerous times agreed to check with his colleagues that told that they are "open"). They also said it is not possible to hike the regular route of the GPT, because we have to check out of the NP at the checkpoint Las Horquetas. There is an optional hiking route continuing North from there. Due to bad weather coming up we ended up not finishing the northern stretch of the trail and just followed the entire Las Horquetas Route at the Carretera Austral.

* '''2019-Nov-29 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

Snow line is at around 1200 Meters but all passes are safely traversable.
The National Park Entrance Fee got raised to 29000 CLP per person for overnight hikes in season 19/20. The park generally seemed very poorly organized, we were told the passes are "closed" at first, whereas they were easy and safe to traverse. The ranger insisted that we could not hike the normal route northbound but have to sign out of the park at the Las Horquetas checkpoint. In high season, the ranger station in the park is manned, so maybe it is possible so sign out there and head northbound.

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Eva Havlová'''

There is still lots of snow in the National Park. I arrived to Villa Cerro Castillo 3 days ago (Novembre 12, 2019) and planed to hike nortbound but rangers didn't let me go. I saw the pass they were talking about (avalanche risk) and I don't think any avalanche could occur, but the thought is that there is lots of water running down and the trail is like a stream. They said it might be possible to do it next week.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019 Jan/ Oilrik / Northbound'''

We ended up doing the normal Cerro Castillo hike as the weather was forecasting heavy rain and snow so we did not want to be on the pass. The regular trail is just gorgeous and the park is beautiful. The trail in the north is not on the new CONAF maps but is marked on the old ones.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:'''

A sandy beach with a visible structure in the grass is the take-out for Lago Elizalde. After exiting, make your way through the farmland until encountering a gravel road that leads past the house at the top of the hill up to Ruta X-686.

Ruta X-686 is a lightly trafficked but well-formed gravel road that is fenced on either side. After crossing the Río Paloma, Ruta X-686 makes a sharp left and begins to climb. 4 km after the sharp left turn, cross a bridge to the left and climb to a wooden gate. If you descend the steep slope to the left of the gate, there is camping under some trees.

The wooden gate marks the beginning of a very long driveway to a house located near the lake. The route takes you along this driveway until a river crossing. After crossing the river, walk northeast along its shore towards the Río Paloma. After reaching the end of the fenceline near the Río Paloma, turn east and walk along the fenceline until reaching Lago Desierto. At the river outlet, there is a nice beach to put in to Lago Desierto.

There is no camping along the shores of Lago Desierto. The take-out is a rocky beach at the base of a bluff. Walk up the bluff and cross country through the farmland to Lago Azul. At the east end of the farm, descend down a road to a rocky beach at the Lago Azul shoreline with a metal structure.

There are a couple of potential camping options along the shoreline of Lago Azul. There are also several residences on the north shore. The take-out is a long rocky beach set before a well manicured forest. On the east end of the land near Lago La Paloma is an expensive looking house surrounded by several other buildings.

There is a 4WD track to the west of the smaller red house located south of the big residence. Ascend the steep climb on a well-formed road that is criss-crossed with several smaller tracks labeled in english with wooden signs. Due to the steep slopes on either side of the cut out road, there is no camping here.

Eventually, the route turns off of the road onto an overgrown 4WD track. Camping off the track is still difficult because of prickly vegetation and steep terrain. This track ends 2.5 km from where the Regular Packrafting Route joins the Regular Hiking Route. From here, the route involves some bushwhacking and following a small trail as it winds in and out of existence. Just before joining with the Regular Hiking Route, the route widens into an old 4WD track that passes some destroyed structures.

The routes join up at a large rock cairn and continues to follow a 4WD track until reaching a large wooden sign with a map of the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. Here there is also a campsite and ranger station. There is a 5.000 CLP fee to enter the reserve.

The route from here is a popular track for backpackers with designated campsites. The trail is well-formed and winds through the forest. When the trail becomes less obvious, the way is shown with yellow markers. In this area there is a designated campsite with a latrine.

At treeline, follow the cairns and rocks painted with white and red stripes through the scree up and over the first pass (approximate elevation 1.450 m). After the steep descent, reenter the trees. There is a campsite, Camping El Bosque, soon after reaching treeline (approximately elevation 940 m) with water and a latrine.

The trail begins to wind up through the forest toward Laguna Castillo. The sights from Laguna Castillo, which is at the base of the pass, are stunning. There are two tracks that climb up to the pass. Make sure to take the path that climbs to the south instead of continuing southeast over the obvious saddle.

The track down to Ruta X-720 is well formed, marked, and popular, but occasionally braided. Follow it until reaching the wooden stile with a rangers hut. From there join Ruta X-720, a dirt road which leads to Highway 7 and Villa Cerro Castillo.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Dec / Michael and Kasia
We stayed at Hospedaje Gemita on Ramón Freire next door to Camping Castillo, 20.000 pp for room in a shared cabaña. The cabaña had 4 rooms (2 doubles, 2 singles), a well equipped kitchen, hot shower. Not allowed to do laundry in the Hospedaje, but there is a lavaderia in town. The hosts, Gemita and Pedro, are very nice. They have also spent a lot of time in Los Avellanos on horseback. Maria, one of the settlers in the valley in Avellanos is a cousin of Pedro.

We found gas in four shops, two had the threaded canisters for stoves, one was 6.000 for a 300 ml tank, the other was the COPEC across the highway from town, 4.000 a tank. The others just had refills, cheapest was the supermercado on the highway, 2.700 for a refill canister.

There is a Banco de Santander ATM in the COPEC on the west side of the highway.

Just on the other side of the highway on the road to the park there is a fruit and vegetable shop that also sells frutos secos and nuts in bulk. He had the best prices.

*2024-Mar /Joscha

Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.

*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=
*2024-Dec Buses Sao Paolo passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique every day around noon, 8.000 pp; Buses ECA passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique Thursdays and Mondays songs 11:30, 8.000 pp.
*Buses to Villa Frei from Coyhaique bus terminal: Monday 7:30, 8:15, 15:30, 17:00, 19:30 Tuesday to Friday 8:15, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30 Saturday 08:00 and 14:00. No bus on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Villa Frei & the bus generally turns around immediately & goes back to Coyhaique.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023/ Martin & Helena
To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side.

*2023/ Jakub+Veronika:
1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets.

*2020 / Martin Lizondo
The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge.
(...)
When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT32 - Cerro Castillo]]

=Images=

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2026-09-09T21:36:25Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT 32 | 1/26-1/28 | 2.1 Days | SOBO | RR | Graham + Gabe '''

Nice chill section. Beautiful.
Started from Las Horquetas at Noon.
Bus from Coyhaique at 8am and 4pm, we took uber for 35k.
They want you to do it in 3 nights, but it is easy and they charge per night.
First Pass is quite chill, not much snow. Beautiful Glacier Waterfalls on descent.
Camped 1km before La bosque campground.
2nd day we tried to get early start before wind. Arrived at pass at 11am, but it was too late.
Ended up descending from pass in horrible wind, some gusts up to 70/80kmh. Quite scary, but we worked slowly and carefully.
Tried to pass Park Ranger early next morning to avoid paying, but did anyway.
Nice section, lots of people though.

''' GPT32/2026-02-12 to 2026-02-14/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''

Traverse from 28-30 km took some time, it isn’t extremely sketchy, but we had to be careful, in bad weather could be bad idea. Wet grass or buddy terrain would make it much harder.
From camp El bosque we went for sunrise to Mirador de Cerro Castillo, so we were there alone, but camps were pretty crowded.

In National Park probably hikers should book tickets in the advance, to limit number of tourist on trail and in Camps. We didn’t know about that, but no one checked on that. When we followed the RR all the way we didn’t go through any official entry or exit to National Park so we didn’t pay any fees.

Camps:
1. S 45.910617° W 72.058600° big meadow with water.
2. Camping El Bosque in NP

No water issues at whole section.

Resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo we did in Minimarket Villarica, they have gas as well. It was closed but we called them and begged to open for us.

* '''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-17 / 6 Days / Packrafting + Hiking / SOBO / RP + 09 + M + RR + E + RR + Castillo glacier + RR + 10 / Antoine B'''

One of my favourite sections and... no one around this time!

Day 3 (I started with 31P)

From the shore of lago Elizalde, it was tricky to find a way through the fences, so I crossed the river and reached the main road where I hiked for about 2 hours (barely any traffic going south). I finally got picked up by a French Guide who drove me to the crossing right after Rio Paloma bridge (looks gorgeous). I finished walking down to the private property where I had a discrete camp by the river trees.

Day 4

When entering the lake at 9am, I met a friendly keeper who let me embark on Lago Desierto (beautiful, some OK waves). Saw no one at the next shore. Another 2h beautiful lake crossing, where waves got bigger and chaotic by the end, especially close to the cliffs. After landing, I saw a keeper and asked for the right of way. He asked the manager who denied access through the property to the MTB trails climbing in the mountains. Puzzled about how I got there (the whole valley is the property of a rich US owner who hires 20 people all-year long). He gave me a boat ride across Lago Paloma, then a car ride uphill to catch up variant M, in front of the gate (with cake and coffee extras). Turned out quite well in the end. There is a sign that the trail is closed or not maintained anymore but it is still in good condition (nice forest walk, fantastic lookout). Camp at the start of the ridge section.

Day 5

Bad weather eventually arrived and I slept in until 12. At 2.30pm, when the rain stopped, I explored a potential alpine route following the ridge and slaloming the peaks.
Awesome views but this looked more like mountaineering in steep/scree terrain, and with hail/strong winds starting I decided to go down to connect back with the track, at the difficult waterfall. It was a slow descent in unstable terrain but I liked the offpist experience. The whole area reminded me of Lappland somehow. The descriptions to climb the grassy slope by the waterfall and go by the forest to avoid climbing were useful. The grassy slope is actually better than it looks but I was careful with the wet ground and the 25kg backpack. The valley was beautiful but windy so I continued to the other side and camped in the forest in a tiny clearing on the path.

Day 6

Finally some sun among clouds in the morning. Generally easy walking to connect with the main trail. Went running (bag-free!) on Variant E up to the glacier. If you like climbing rocks, the view gets even better at the end. I still haven't met anyone. Back to RR, climbing to the pass where barely any snow was left (dozens meters on the other side, actually nice to walk on, with huemul footprints). The views after the pass were rewarding, among light rain and wind. The well defined trail through the forest is so enjoyable, what a contrast to many GPT sections! I arrived around 5pm at the Bosque camping and met... no one. What a different experience, I can't complain about the crowds! Hiking during the week with rainy/windy (wouldn't call it stormy) weather is probably the answer for loneliness. At 7pm I went across the forest towards the moraine (a few min walk) and then walked to the Laguna. Pretty nice view, despite cloudy summits and the fierce wind & rain cocktail in my face. Hanged my food in the rainy night, although I haven't seen any mice (only cute colourful birds coming by).

Day 7

An enjoyable long night/morning under singing rain. After the rain stopped, I left at ~4pm and hiked up to the informal campsites right before the lake. I was planning to go all the way to Camping Neozelandés but watching the Cerro Castillo glaciers I could not resist having a closer look up there. I left my backpack and climbed NW through the boulder field, all the way up to the pass/plateau (-46.07005, -72.19438). Demanding short hike (1km, 400-500m) but the rocky terrain was actually holding well (no scrambling). Incredible views up there on both sides, and the glacier right below Cerro Castillo. I climbed a bit higher up (-46.06911, -72.19559) and spent 2h admiring the mountains with dancing clouds and the sun finally shining. I saw 2-3 spots that could host mountaineering campsite sites (granted you have a good weather window for the night and morning). Camped at (-46.07268, -72.18411), just along the path but protected from the wind.

Day 8

What a SURPRISE at sunrise! It snowed about 5cm overnight, the landscape is stunning and I'm having a blast climbing to the pass in the morning light and swirls of snow. The atmosphere is so incredible I stopped 1hr to contemplate it. The snow melted within a few hours and on the way down to the park exit, I finally met my first humans for the last 4days. I followed the river to exit the park, crossed the road until I could inflate the packraft. Still tight water levels, I touched the ground several times. But I made it to Rio Ibáñez. I was super fast! I topped 10km/h (6km/h river flow + big tailwinds)? Exited as indicated on track files and walked to town, staying at Nordic Patagonia, 10k CLP per person. Garden camping. Friendly, hit showers, WiFi. But street noises and lights are quite annoying after being in the nature...

Why was there no one in Cerro Castillo? Mystery solved: the park was closed up to the last day because of the stormy weather (got lucky!).

I was planning 2 nights in Villa Cerro Castillo and but eventually stayed 10+ days after meeting a friendly climbers who invited me to join. There are awesome equipped climbing sites next to town, with lovely/cheap camping at the bottom of the cliffs (e.g. Chabela). Not to mention the fiesta costumbrista & local parties - good Chilean friends met there.

* '''2026-01-10 to 2026-01-12 / 3 Days / Hiking / SOBO / 02 + RR + E + F / Michel & Lisa'''

'''Note''': Option E is no longer passable since the land owner doesn't allow people to go through the land. If you want to go down from the ridge to the valley you'll have to use the now official trail that goes further west (visible on OSM maps).

Day 1

We took one of the 8:00 buses from Coyhaique towards Villa Cerro Castillo from the bus terminal and were dropped off at Las Horquetas at about 9:30. Had breakfast, lost a nice titanium spork in the process and started hiking at 10:00. The beginning is all MR but quite nice. There were quite a few river crossings after the first few km, depending on your preferences you might opt to hike in your water shoes if you carry any (we chose not to but in hindsight it may have been less rhythm-breaking to do so). Anyhow, the path is very clear and at some point develops into more of a trail. Plenty of water along the way, no need to carry much. At least at this time of year. We hiked to the first camping Río Turbio ([-46.00821, -72.10414]) which had quite a few tents but didn't feel crowded. Mice could be seen running around, we hung all our food just to be sure. We did the hike to the Lagoon (Glaciar Peñon; Option E), which took 45 min to get to the lagoon (we didn't go further and hiked quite fast). Very pretty up there, worth the extra trip if you have the time/energy.

Day 2

Started hiking at 9:00, starting through the forest and up the pass where there was luckily hardly any wind but still some hard snowfields. We took a break shortly after the pass but in hindsight should've continued to about here: [-46.04032, -72.13635] because there you get a great view over the valley beneath.
We continued to the next camping El Bosque. It's very sheltered but also kinda dark here, even though the river is close. Traces of mice here too, which is unfortunate but as expected; we hung all our food again). Thanks to the people who suggested to hike to the end of the camp (coming from the east). It's a great tip if you prefer some privacy, since most hikers just stop at the sight of the first campsites. But if you continue 100 m after the start of the campsite (coming from the east) you'll get to a smaller second section where you'll be more to yourself. We hiked to the small lagoon (trail indicated on OSM) which is well worth the trip. Only about 20 min hiking and it's amazing up there - great views of the remnants of the glacier, the mountains and the lagoon. We even went for a swim (yes, brrrr, but we brought food and our stove to make tea afterwards B⁠-⁠) ). We agree that this could/should be a GPT option, but of course people will find it on the OSM maps anyways.

Day 3

We started at 9:30 and got up to the viewpoint of Cerro Castillo quite soon though we took many breaks to take pictures - including some of baby geese (what are they doing up there?? Haha). The views from up there are great, making up for the fact that you have to share your space with day hikers who come from the village.
Then came the long, crowded, dusty descent. The ground is composed of very fine dust in many places that is stirred by everyone who walks on it and dispersed by the wind. Afterwards, I could pour it out of my shoes. Get ready to clean your stuff. ;-) We wanted to take Variant F to descend to the village which is much faster than the official route which goes further west (which means you have to backtrack on the MR down in the valley - not a good deal we thought). However, there is a little wall of stones blocking it, indicating that this trail is no longer used. We told each other that we didn't see it and continued on the trail. It is very easy to follow and in the upper parts also very sandy. Lots of feline footprints on the path, a puma maybe?
At some point further down in the valley there were some laminated sheets of paper announcing that this was not an official trail to enter PN Cerro Castillo and that anyone using it would be turned around in 5 km at some station. However, we hadn't encountered anyone on the trail, though we did see something that looked like a puesto no longer used. We continued on the trail and found the way out through a private property that had some "no trespassing" signs and we had to climb a locked gate. It seems someone was tired of all the foot traffic through their private land or something. So we think options F and G should be deleted from the GPT tracks since they seemingly cross private land where the land owners don't want people to go. A new option should follow the official trail (visible on OSM) that turns south here: [-46.08724, -72.17281].

'''2026-01-08 to 2026-01-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + RR + F / Chris & Lotte'''

Pretty route, a bit touristic. Hoards of mice. Currently visibly dryer than usual.

Day 1: took a bus from Opec station (buses lucas) at 7:45 to ibanez and exited at las horquettas. followed the official Las Horquetas trail. Campsites look nice, full of mice. We camped at shortly before Laguna Glaciar Penon. No mice presence visible in this rocky terrain. Water is plenty.

Day 2: Continued back to and along RR. Water plenty. Shortly before Camp 50.5 we drank some water. Lotte seemingly got food poisoning... shortly after she vomited and was dizzy. We set up camp in 50.5, next day all good.
The stream we took from didnt look bad, in hindsight we'd still choose to drink from it, there were no obvious no-no's we ignored. My stomach was fine. Use this info for your personal decision.
Very pretty view and nicely sheltered from the wind.

Day3: chose easier Variant F to not have to hitchhike to cerro castillo. Not as mice-y day, but quite touristy. This seems to partially be flooded by day tourists. Although the variant leaves that into a deserted trail, leading through private property and skipping the toll.
ATM in cerro castillo is out if order.
ATM in Balmaceda (suprisingly good rate) works. No gas in Balmaceda though!

Mice: they are frequently present. Last week was a confirmed case of hunter virus in the region Cerro Castillo, five in the "bigger region".
We saw at least five dead mice on the trail. Precautions should be taken seriously.

'''2026-01-05 to 2026-01-07/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, Variant E/ RR/ Option 3/ RR/ Greg Carter'''

Only a few things to add to Dave and Siyuan’s log of their trip on 21-25 December 2025.

Overall
The mountains were stunning, worth paying the price of admission (CLP 35,000), and putting up with mice, tourists, tábanos.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1
I started from Villa Cerro Castillo (Nordic Patagonia has a nice campground, cost CLP 10,000 pp: -46.12121, -72.15896), and took a local bus to Las Horquetas for CLP 8,000. There was an unmanned Ranger station with a book for voluntary registration, which I completed. I was going to camp at Rio Turbio/ Segundo camping, but I arrived early afternoon and the tábanos were oppressive, so I kept hiking.

(Generally in the forest, throughout the hike the tábanos were bad, so I recommend you bring a headnet, and be prepared to swat/ kill a lot of them.)

I hiked up Variant E, to Laguna Glacier Peñon, which was very picturesque and well worthwhile. There are also some good camping spots up there.

In the late afternoon, as the weather was good I went over the pass, which had some snow fields on the top (I walked on them with no micro-spikes required). There are wonderful views to the east, and the western side of the pass (which is steep with some fixed ropes), has beautiful views of numerous waterfalls coming off the mountain.

I camped before Camping El Bosque, at Camp {32} [48.0/939], which has some good, slightly sloping sites.

Day 2
Upon reaching Camping El Bosque I took the side trail west (OSM), up to the laguna/ glacier viewpoint, which was well worthwhile.I recommend that this become a new variant.

Before going up I stashed my backpack off the trail. On returning I found that mice had eaten through the mesh of a side pocket to try to get into a plastic jar of peanut butter. A big reminder to hang all food around GPT32!

Upon leaving Camping El Bosque there is a CONAF sign stating that you should cross Morro Negro before 12pm, due to it being an exposed rocky ridge, with strong wind gusts usually hitting after this time. If the conditions are not optimal CONAF states that you must descend via the Mirador Laguna trail and re-enter via Estero Parada.

The views at the Mirador Cerro Castillo were really stunning in perfect weather.

I continued over Morro Negro with little wind, and camped at Camping Neozelandés. The trail to this camp from Camping Porteadores has an easy gradient. Also there is more and better camping, and much nicer views in close proximity to the mountains. Plus it positions you well to hike to Laguna Duff the next day.

Day 3
I hiked up to Laguna Duff for the sunrise - the views were incredible, with a mirror reflection of the mountains.

I then hiked out, paid CLP 35,000 at the Ranger station, and was required to complete an electronic declaration that basically declared I was ok to hike what I had just hiked! Ridiculous bureaucracy. But at least CONAF provides free WiFi!

I got a lift back to Villa Cerro Castillo with some others in the back tray of a taxi cab (CLP 5,000). I’m glad I didn’t walk - it’s a very stony and boring road.

* '''2026-01-06 to 2026-01-07 / 2 days / Packrafting / EABO / RP + Option 09 / Daniel.s'''

A little packrafting on lagos Desierto, Azul and Paloma to make use of a low wind day.

Day 1: took the bus towards Lago Caro (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am, Sunday 3pm from bus terminal Coyhaique) and got off at the intersection (X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310]) and hiked to the put in for Lago Desierto. No mentionable difficulties. Crossed the lake with strong tailwind and very strong gusts. Take out was tricky, because the wind pushed me into the current of the river mouth. Hiked the portage to Lago Azul with inflated packraft. Wind on Lago Azul was even stronger, so I stayed put. Found a sort of windsheltered spot near the put in (half collapsed boat hut). During the evening the wind changed direction 180° for about one hour - very strange.

Day 2: Crossed Lago Azul in calm conditions, short upriver paddling against low speed current to get to Lago Paloma. Against expectations and wind forecast is had light headwind for the crossing, otherwise no difficulties. All the campsites in the track files seem very nice, too bad the wind stopped me early. Take out of Lago Paloma is a popular beach, got a lift right away.

'''2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + D + RR + E + 3 / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 1: We got the 08:00 Cochrane bus on Sunday from Coyhaique, and arrived at the option 2 trailhead Las Horquetas at about 09:30. The trail was mostly wide enough to walk two abreast, and very well maintained. Three river crossings required getting wet feet but nothing above mid calf level. We camped after 15km at the Segundo Camping -46.00816, -72.10431. Epic views of the mountains for the last 1km.

Day 2: The trail was a little more rugged today, but always easily followed and signposted where not. We took option E before the pass, which was well worth it. The pass had snow (about the top 30 minutes of hiking) which was compacted and easy to walk on without post holing. We camped at Camping El Bosque -46.06418, -72.16919 which was a very nice spot. The side trek just north of the camp is much recommended with epic views and only a 20 minute hike from camp.

Day 3: Tough climb up to the pass on steep loose rock. When you pass the lake, make sure you follow the left hand trail via -46.07673, -72.18537. We stayed on the right hand trail closer to the lake and ended up climbing up very steep scree to rejoin later. The pass was very windy when we crossed, but didn’t have any particularly treacherous falls if you were blown over, so we felt comfortable with ~60km/h gusts. We left camp at 09:30 and reached the pass at about midday, which was later than ideal. The route was well signposted with yellow markers. The down climb was steep but had fixed ropes in the most dangerous parts. As soon as we reached the tree line the wind subsided. We camped at the excellent Area Camping Porteadores -46.08874, -72.23553 with flush toilets and running water.

Day 4: We hiked Option 3 to Laguna Duff. We planned to leave the tent at Camping Neozelandés and camp there, but we made such good time that we continued all the way back to the lake and back to Area Camping Porteadores in 4.5 hours. Below the treeline there is a perfect single track trail. Once you’re in the alpine area the trail is much like the pass yesterday with moraine rocks, but not as steep. Laguna Duff is spectacular!

Day 6: Simple walk down from the camp site to the dirt road to town. We were charged $35k CLP per person on exit from the park at the rangers station (-46.11819, -72.21799). We hitched a lift on the dirt road back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

*'''2025-12-18 to 2025-12-20/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Opt 2+RR + Opt 3 + RR/Tomas Martinec'''

I did the option starting in Las Horquetas. Officially, the trek is recommended to be done in 4 days, but I don't think it is a big problem to complete it in 3 days if the weather cooperates.

Generally: There are a lot of mice everywhere. I always hunged my food and luckily hadn't any issue.

Day 1
I started in Las Horquetas and finished at the camp El Bosque, combining the first two recommended sections into one day.

First section until Rio Turbio is a comfortable walk overall. There are many river crossings, but all were below knee level.

Second section from Rio Turbio to El Bosque, this includes a climb to the pass. The second part of this ascent is open, rocky terrain. I ocasionally lost the trail, but it is generally quite well marked. At the top of the pass, there was still snow, so I had to cross the snowy terrain for about 15 mins.

Day 2

I slept at El Bosque and hiked directly to the lagoon and Cerro Castillo. As before, the climb and pass are mostly open rocky terrain.

For my second night, I continued to Camp Neozelandes, which has fewer people than Los Porteadores and it is closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 3
I hiked to Laguna Duff - another beautiful spot - and then descended back to Caseta Estero Patada.I paid 35 000 CLP for 3 days (the same price as for 4 days). From Caseta Estero Patada, there is about a 5km walk to Villa Cerro Castillo or you can hitchhike as there are enough cars passing by.

Generally, it is a nice trek with beautiful highlight spots. At the same time, it feels quite regulated compared to more remote hikes, which may or may not suit everyone.

'''2025-Dec-8 to 2025-Dec-11 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt2, D, RR, E, 3 / Emily & Kole'''

Beautiful route through forest and glacial valleys. More crowded with hikers but trails and campsites weren’t overrun. Trail well maintained, easy walking. We took 3N/4D to maximise a good weather window, but RR plus Variant 2 (Los Horquetas trail) could easily be condensed to 1N/2D. Attractiveness 4/5, difficulty 2/5 (w/ Opt2).

Day 1
* Caught the Cochrane to Coyhaique bus to the Los Horquetas trailhead. Started Variant 2 at 1.30pm.
* Spoke with ranger at -45.97772, -71.96298 who gave an overview of the hike. You can buy your park pass online or pay upon departure.
* Trail is very easy walking. A couple of fords, though all below the knee (165cm) and not strong.
* Camped at Rio Turbio (-46.00849, -72.10397). Perhaps 10 other hikers there but a large campground, plenty of space. Well sheltered, picnic tables. Mice everywhere! We hung our food.

Day 2
* Took option E to see laguna glacier peñón - easy detour with good views, would recommend.
* Some snow at the top of Paso Penon, but mostly hard; no spikes needed.
* Gravel/dirt quite loose in places on the descent from the pass, but easy to navigate when sticking to trail. Some ropes to assist descent if needed.
* Camped at El Bosque (-46.06415, -72.16944) for a short day, no visible mice but hung out food.
* Took the OSM north of camp to Laguna/Glacier (not in Gpx files). Short and easy climb following cairns. Better views and laguna than Opt-N, highly recommend.

Day 3
* After crossing the outlet of Laguna Castillo/at the weather station, start making your way upwards. Can start to ascend at any point, however following these markers puts you on a clearer trail.
* Winds are very strong at the pass plateau and when descending. Descent itself isn’t difficult, but can be more time-consuming with wind gusts.
* Took Option 3 to Laguna Duff. Easy climb, beautiful views of Laguna. Ranger informed us Camp neozelandés {32-03} [3.6/1156] is more exposed, but it’s still in the forest/a good sheltered option.
* We camped at Portedaores {32} [56.6/890]. Em fell asleep with her food and awoke to a tennis-ball hole chewed through her tent. Hang your food!

Day 4
* Had to sign a declaration/emergency contact form upon leaving park at rangers station. Paid 35.000CLP pp for 3+ days in park (honour system).
* Stayed at Turismo Al Galope, 10.000clp for camping. Nice indoor space with wifi, but BYO toilet paper, soap, and gas for cooking.

*2025-Dec-05 to 2025-Dec-11 / 7(6) Days / Hiking / SOBO RR,OPT 01,02,D,RR / Massa and Jacicek

Day 1

Started in Villa Frei, we took Uber for 18k CLP, as we missed the bus from Coyhaique. The driver didn’t believe at first where we want to drop off. Went in the direction of Lago La Paloma, the route was quite busy (it was Friday) and multiple people offered us a lift. We considered taking OH 32-05, however on the gate there is prohibition sign and multiple cars were going to and from the property. We decided to take 32-N and camp early (on the right just after the first gate on 32-N (gate open).

Day 2

Climb up was ok, trail is recognizable, we needed to climb through 3 fences (other had gates open or were broken down). We met a black cow with calf at the old farm. Then we took OH 32-01. The trail runs through beautiful forests and we found several trees with Quiñoto mushrooms (nice smell, but seemed over mature). Then approximately after the km 5.6 (or as Julien writes km 6) the trail mostly disappears. There are fallen trees everywhere and new young trees just high enough to obscure the path. This took us whole afternoon and was very demanding. We finally reached the Rio Blanco and camped there.

Day 3

Rest day – hiked few km, forced Rio Blanco and camped once again alongside it ca 2km before Las Horquetas (in the few trees downhill from the old barn).

Day 4

Forded Rio Blanco again near the parking at Las Horquetas entry. The trail is open. Guards recommended to make the trip in 4 days. According to their information the 32F is closed, but 32G appears to be open. The ranger hut at 32D was unmanned. We reached Camp Rio Turbio and stayed there.

Day 5

Climbed up to paso Peñon, which still had snow. The descend from paso is crowned by many waterfalls from melting ice. We stayed at El Bosque Campsite and made a walk to the viewpoint over the campsite. In the hindsight I would recommend to continue and stay at the closed Campsite just before Laguna Castillo If you are continuing to Morro Negro as you will start nearer the summit.

Day 6

On leaving the campsite we noticed small note from the park guards to pass Morro Negro before 12pm due to wind. We had reached the summit at ca 12.30 in strong wind. The descend from it is steep scree and in direct wind, take caution here. We camped at Porteadores.

Day 7

Went from Porteadores to Villa Cerro Castillo, payed 35 000 CLP pp for the park. Local worker offered us a lift for part of the final trip which we accepted.

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-24 to 2025-Mar-26/ 2.5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO RR, OH 2, OH3/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

On the 23th we arrived from GPT 33 in Villa Cerro Castillo. After resupplying we went to Las Horquetas by hitchhiking. We were lucky on that section to have a perfect wheather window: sunny, warm and with no wind. With wind the two main passes can be challenging. The second one is "forbiden" under strong wind (signs on the path). Overall that section us easy going as it is the well maintained ( and crowdy) las horquetas trail. There are a lot of signs on the trail, especially on alpine terrain. You don t need to check GPS However it is really scenic and there are some more alpine parts that we enjoyed a lot. Mojo negro is a must with the view on Cerro Castillo above the glacier and the view on the plain under us, on the Tores de Avellano, the tip of Campo Hielo Norte...

Camp1: camp el bosque ( OSM): lot of spots with tables, WC. No view and crowdy. It s better to continue higher, even to laguna cerro castillo.

Camp2: camp el neozélandes. Same but far less crowdy for us. There are spots just after the camp or at laguna duff ( but cold!)

Day1: First part is really easy going but not borring at all on MR. Then it goes up to the pass. Even at the end of the season we walked on snow patches at the pass. The descent is slightly more technical ( but there are tons of ropes if you feel uncomfortable).

Day2: We started by going to the lack above the camp (no name). 1h up and back. Then we followed RR. Lago cerro castillo and mojo negro are just magnificent. OH 3 to laguna duff was also nice and easy. We were there for sunset so without the crowd.

Day3: Back to Villa Cerro Castillo. The MR is a bit borring but not so long. We did not manage to catch a lift. We took a bus around 1 pm( Don Carlos) to go to Coyhaique.

* '''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-08 / 5 days / Packrafting and hiking/ NOBO / Option 6 / Tomáš&Natalie'''

Not important prelude: We were not going to do this. Several continuous days of rain were forecasted. We meant to take a ferry north from Puerto Chacabuco. However, there were protests and the road to Puerto Aysén was closed on Monday and the buses were cancelled. The first bus of the day at 13:45 only went a few km before Puerto Aysén, where the prostest were. We were supposed to walk through them and board another bus. Locals said that the ferry always leaves later than the schedulet 15:00 and we should make it. But when we reached the protests, somebody called the port and the ship sailed on time. Given we also left our tent poles in Cochrane and were arranging for them to be sent to Coyahaique by bus (thanks Thijmen!!) and then by post (from Coyhaique to Santiago) and that the forecast was improving somewhat, we took it as a sign to do this option which we have previously mulled, so we returned to Coyhaique instead of hunting the ferry by hitching to Puerto Cisnes, where it would be at 11PM. We cursed ourselves throughout when it was cold, rainy and flooded, but you only truly remember the good stuff later on, so now it feels good. We walked in drysuits 80 percent of the time. We would never want to hike in such rainy and windy cold weather without drysuits and drybags.

Overall, I think we are the first who have done this hike since it has been promoted from exploratory options. The GPS is correct. Hiking wise it is easy, possibly easier (less exposed, we had no issues doing it in the rain) than RR. Fords are much worse though, at least in rainy weather. Scenic-wise it is hard to compare, we had no views in the clouds. But I assume the RR is prettier. Here you will meet noone, if that is a huge bonus for you, this could be recommended. Or when denied entry on RR when going NOBO or if you have done RR previously. It is also obviously attractive for packrafters as it nicely connects to Rio Paloma/31P-01.

(The rapid under the bridge over Rio Ibanez at Cerro Castillo looked just like big waves (class III?) from the bridge, but do your own scouting, I saw it twice only for 5 seconds each, I just was surprised it did not look that bad.)

On Tuesday morning, we took a bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane and got out at Cerro Castillo, where we waited 4 hours for the bus from Cochrane that carried our poles. A gomeria here -46.12096, -72.16249 sharpened our machete very well and for free! When the poles arrived, we soon got a hitch to -46.13355, -72.41950. In the pouring rain and wind, we assembled the packraft and went 1 km down Rio Ibanez to option 10A. The river was flooded, all of the riverbed was under water. Luckily it was raining less then. Camped in the rain here: -46.11081, -72.40580. The cable car upstream is still there, no idea if it is functional though.

The trail up still exists, but it seems it had not been used this year, so it is not the fastest. Shortly after entering the forrest for the first time somewhere around -46.10651, -72.41083, there is a meadow with some bamboo where the other side of the trail is hard to find even with GPS, but it is there. The trail is good in the forrest, but in the open around -46.10263, -72.41470, it is somewhat overgrown, but not too bad, I did not use the machete. The option 06 is preferable to 06B. I think this is what "Mum, Sis and I" did. 06B is still a trail at least in its beginning and it was done by Jan and he did not seem to like the last BB climb (I talked to him). On our route, I would say the BB&CC should be more CC&BB&TL. First part is easy if steep descent in open terrain. Around here -46.09437, -72.42397, there was a trailhead. I however lost (not hitting "save" on new waypoints is a plague!) the exact coordinates, so look for it. The trail is maybe an animal trail and is steep, but it leads you down to a stream. Cross the stream here: -46.09371, -72.42521, where the animal (?) trail continues. Then keep to the ridge until you exit the forest. The forest is indeed quite open (the more the higher you are) and sometimes there is something that looks like a trail. Good camps with access to water would be -46.09088, -72.43224 and at the end of the BB&CC (not the one indicated in the files). This part took us maybe 2 or 3 hours, but we were slow. Camp without water possible here too: -46.09290, -72.42823. It was starting to rain when we reached the open terrain, so we put on drysuits. The meadows did not seem to be grazed and water was kind of everywhere. The traverse is however easy and not exposed. Safety-wise, we felt good even in the rain and medium visibility. It was not windy but we got cold (took us some time to get warm in the tent). The forest before our campsite somewhere around -46.05323, -72.47485 is very open - count no time penalty for walking there.

We had a late morning as it was still raining. When it stopped, we put on drysuits and went down the meadow and then it started to rain again. The meadow is being grazed and marshy and I do not think it ever gets really dry. Sometimes it seemed there is a bit of a trail in the forest on the west side, but we mostly walked on the meadow. Puesto del Avion stands, is semidry and kind of dirty. The trail after the meadow is well used and clear and muddy. The river was roaring (looked kayakable from high up, it is continuous rapids at least up to clas IV, but we obviously did not see all of it) and we avoided the first four fords that are close to each other by staying on the left side. This is doable, it takes a bit of time but the forest is open, just stay close to water. The ford 10.6 (-45.99676, -72.37790) was a clear nogo and initially we also tried to stay on the right. It went for a bit, but it gets steeper and steeper and cliffier and cliffier. We camped up there and tried to go further the next day, but turned back one third of the distance to the next ford. Traversing seems bad, but possibly crosing a sidestream here -45.99541, -72.37794, reaching above tree line here: -45.98498, -72.37741 and then going down -45.97970, -72.36782 might work, but the way down would be steep and it would possibly take a whole day, so you might just as well wait for the water to go down. In 12 hourse of no rain during the nightu, the water went down by about 15 cm at a narrow spot.

Back at the ford, it was still too strong. However, about 100m upstream (somewhere around -45.99786, -72.37877), where the locals' makeshift camp is, one can cross the river kneedeep where it is wider. First go in the middle, then about 50 m downstream and the cross to the other side and then along the river to the trail. The trail then goes under cliffs, the whole upper valley is quite pretty. The next ford 8.2 was also strong. Without backpack, I managed to cross it but a much better whitewaterless spot is about 60 m upstream in front of a big rock. The river was still strong, Natalie struggled a bit with it even with my help. It was mid-thighs and pushy in the middle. Having lost a lot of time on the fords and attempted traverse, we camped at -45.95672, -72.35307, behind a new gate. The trail from there continues at least to -45.94945, -72.36639, where it fords the river (easy). I did not explore more, but I wonder if it joins option 8 at a clearing and buildings here: -45.93527, -72.42878, as the corresponding pass seems low and there do not seem to be any sensible other destinations in this valley. Somebody with more time and food should explore more - try to reserve at least half a day for it! There was also abandoned puesto here: -45.95000, -72.36480.

Ford 4.9 did not go down overnight, it was under our ùknees. Natalie forded a bit upstream where it is more pushy but boulders and stones give you more grip. I had no issues crossing at the proper ford, where the riverbad is exposed rock. It is not flat and not too slippery though. The rest of the valley is easy and finally it was a sunny day without drysuits! Bridge 30.4 on Option 5 was standing, so that still waits for its first log. It was a sunny Saturday and there were several cars (fisher and tourists) at Bridge 31, so hitching from there seems feasible. There was also some traffic on the less minor road to Lago Caro. We however went down on Rio Paloma on 31-01P.

*'''2025-FEB-26 to 2025-FEB-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short but very diverse section with a variety of terrain, picturesque forests, and stunning views. The memory of clambering up steep slopes in the northern part of the stage and then gazing at the imposing, dominating Cerro Castillo (2675 m above sea level) to the south is etched deeply in our minds. The section passes through Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, which means there is an entry fee and camping is only allowed at designated sites (see below).

Challenges:
Exposed terrain and clambering at kilometers 28.3-30.0. Caution and slow progress are necessary here. It is impassable in bad weather. There is nothing too complicated on BB + CC at kilometers 38.1-38.7; the forest is relatively clear and there is a narrow trail in some places.

Fees:
At the time of our passage, the entry fee for Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo was (for foreigners per person) 18,000 CLP for one day, 24,000 CLP for two days, and 28,000 CLP for three or more days in the park. We paid 24,000 CLP each upon exiting the park (X {32} [60.6/316]) since we spent one night outside the park.

Bivouacing:
Camping within Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo is, according to information from the gatekeepers, only allowed at officially designated campsites marked in OSM map sources:

1) Segundo camping (-46.00818, -72.10410)
2) Camping El Bosque (-46.06429, -72.16909)
3) Camping Los Porteadores. (-46.08888, -72.23543)

We only used the last mentioned site as we chose the fastest route through the national park.

These campsites have designated spots for tents, wooden seating, and dry toilets. They were quite crowded in the evenings. Other campsites found in OSM sources or track files are not official and thus illegal.

Water:
Water is not a problem; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
In Villa Frei, we bought supplies for 2.5 days in a small shop with basic groceries, and we had a little left over. In the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, there is a well-stocked shop called Janito, and a bit further along is a stylish food truck made from an old bus.

'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option E, Option 3, Option F / Tyson'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas (BusCarolina). Was full on a Sunday, but a friendly worker at the station said I should insist, so I ended up standing in the back for the hour and half ride.

Day 1: Guard at the station gave the usual advice to hit the passes early to avoid the afternoon wind. Easy to follow trail, very scenic. Some wet cow trails at one point, but just following the river, so easy. A few ankle deep crossings. Went up to Laguna Penon (called Laguna El Turbio on some maps) in the afternoon. The wind and rain started up on the way. Made it up there to momentarily enjoy a whitecapped laguna and pelting rain.

Day 2: Crossed Pass Penon by 10:30 or so. One could easily do Horquetas to Camp Bosque in a day, weather permitting. Made it to Bosque by late lunch so went up to Laguna Tempano / unnamed glacier viewpoint. Got a half hour of sun up there before the wind turned it to white caps again. NOTE: there are a handful of campsites about 20 meters past the first main grouping that you hit. Everyone stopped at the first ones, while those stayed empty

Day 3: Late start but made it to Cerro Castillo by 11:30. Covered in clouds so waited about an hour to see if they would clear but more kept rolling in and wind picked up so I went on. About half way down the other side I look back to absolutely clear skies. Made it to camp Neozelandes (I recommend it over Porteadores) by maybe 4:30, set up camp. Up to Laguna Duff by 6ish, plenty of time to enjoy the remaining sun up there. At camp Porteadores, saw a hiker I met on day 1 with a bandage on her face. Her group of four had skipped over camp Turbio, so had crossed Castillo the day before. She described the wind as lifting her and another hiker up and dropping them on the ground. They scooted the whole way down to Porteadores on their backsides. Other hiker ended up with stitches in her leg (shout out to Marnie for some good looking backcountry sutures)

Day 4: Utterly clear day, couldn’t stand the thought of not seeing Cerro Castillo so hiked back up. Much easier to see the cairns and markers on the way up. People were just lounging up there without clouds or wind. Went down Option F, which was full of day hikers making the most of the cloudless day. NOTE the last half of option F goes onto private land now closed to the public. The rangers and physical maps will tell you to go half way down Option F and then take another trail going southwest. This is all well-beaten and impossible to miss. I actually completely missed the fork. Downside is that the trail spits you out further from the Villa. So if you can’t get a hitch (like me) then you’ve got another 5K to walk to town. Got charged the 28K pesos for 3+ days at the end.

'''25-02-17- 25-02-19/ 2,5 days / SOBO / OH02-RR-Var. E -RR-OH3-RR / Volker'''

Scenic, easy, short - nice section. Water everywhere, all river crossings dry feet. A highway for gpt standards.
Day 1: Bus (Don Carlos) from Coyhaique to Cochrane at 8 a.m., got out at Las Horquetas. Some hikers, but not overcrowded. Variant E to Laguna Turbia and the glacier recommended. There are several camp spots on the way to the Laguna and close to it.
Day 2: Started early, nobody on the easy and pittoresque way up and down the first pass. Crowds between El Bosque and the mirador, many day hikers. The scrambling up and down the 2nd pass probably isn‘t fun on a rainy and misty day. Lots of hikers at the Porteadores and Neozelandes campings. Again several camp spots on the way to the Laguna Duff and close to it.
Day 3: Short walk to Laguna Duff, very nice in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Met them (many dayhikers) on the way down. If you prefer to donate 28k to a charity instead of a Chilean state body - turn right at the sign „1km“ and walk along the river to the MR. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo from the parking 1,5km after the junction

* ''' 2025-FEV-13 > 15 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : pierriers, bush-bashing

Les 15 premiers km sont à l'image du GPT31. La vue est sympa mais la gravel road est ennuyeuse. J'ai marché 6 km puis on m'a emmené au lac La Paloma. Vraiment magnifique et populaire. Ensuite j'ai repris ma rando en revenant au km 15,5. Il y a un ford dès la sortie de la gravel road. La montée se fait bien, quelques clôtures à franchir mais la plupart ont été cassées par des randonneurs pour faciliter le passage. Il y a un ford au km 23,2, puis j'ai campé au km 23,6. Je suis allé au point de vue de la 32-C, ça vaut le détours. Il y a pas mal de cairns sur le sentier et on voit qu'il était très fréquenté par le passé. Mais ce n'est plus le cas et certains passages sont difficile. D'ailleurs le point le plus difficile est mal placé sur la trace GPS, la partie escalade se trouve au point 45.938328° S 72.086493° W. Au km 34, après le petit torrent, le sentier est envahi et j'ai beaucoup utilisé ma machette. J'ai perdu une guêtre dans la bataille. Après le km 35 le sentier est plutot dégagé. Au km 39 on rejoins les sentiers du parc et ils sont plutôt bien entretenus et très utilisés. Attention les camps aux km 48 et 50,5 sont fermés temporairement et deplacés au km 49. En passant devant le péage à la sortie du parc, j'ai dit que je venais de Lago La Paloma et ils m'ont laissé passer. J'ai essayé le stop sur les 6 km de gravel road mais sans succès.

'''2025-02-16 to 2025-02-19 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / optie 2, RR, option E, 3, nameless laguna / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* Hitchhiking to las Horquitsas took longer than expected (4 hours)
* I arrived at 15.30 and I was still allowed to enter. But you have to register otherwise the guard will run behind you (happened to me).
* At least 3 fjords on option 2 so sandals or something would be nice. I decided to get my trail runners wet but regretted it next cold morning putting on wet cold shoes and socks.
* The side trip to the lagunas are very beautiful go there! (leave your backpack down,)
* If you walk long days it's not busy in the park all the people gather at the camping sites and stop hiking at 15.00.
* Water: Easy everywhere except from Laguna Castillo to camp las porteadores has no water (3 hours walk).
* Camping: at official sites or if you like a camp with more scenery you can camp at Laguna Peñon and Laguna Castillo.

'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2p, Var f., RR / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the bus from Coyhaique at 9:00. It took about 1.5 hours, cost 10,000 clp each.
The trail from Los Horquetas was well maintained. There were a few small fords along the way.
Camped at Rio Tirbio with 10 more people.
We left our bags and went to Laguna peñon and back, about 2 hours detour. The trail to the lake is marked well. The Laguna was quiet small and had milky color from the melting glacier.

2nd day:
The accent to the pass and the descent were pleasant. A little after the pass a lot of little waterfalls from melting glacier- very beautiful!
We took a detour to the unnamed Laguna using Lilian's directions.
The CC to the lake is not marked but it wasn't hard to get there. Took us about half an hour to the lake. The laguna Had a tourquize color with brown on the outside to it.

We camped at El Bosque with tons of other tourists but there was room for everybody, and it was quite.
We left our bags and climbed to the unnamed lake. The trail was marked well. It took us about one hour up. The lake was larger then the last two. We heard cracking and falling sound on the way ( maybe falling glacier?)The weather was bad and we were wet and cold, so we hurried back down.

3rd day:
After a rainy night we started a rainy day.
There were glimpses of sun and we had a chance to see the fresh snow covered mountains around.
We decided not to climb to the pass because of the weather and took var f.
We didn't regret it because it started snowing and the wind was crazy.
On the way down we met a worried ranger who was going up to stop people from climbing the pass.
At ( -46.08730, -72.17282) we split from the gpx and walked down on a well maintained CONAF trail.
At (-46.067656,-072.119996) there's a CONAF cabin and we had to pay 28,000 clp each.
We hitchhiked the MR to the main road. There were a lot of tourists on this trail and it went pretty fast.

Took a bus back to coyhaique at 16:30.

'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH02, var D, RR, variant E. RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas in the morning to hike in on option 2, very easy.

Camped at Rio Turbio camp, saw a mouse here so hung our food.

Took variant E to Laguna Peñon route is marked with cairns. very quick and easy so worth the trip.

Pass 43.9km still has snow but is easily manageable.

Camped at El Bosque and took a side trip up to the unnamed Laguna above it. Really nice would definitely recommend it. The route isn't on the track files but is on OSM and is marked with cairns.

Pass 53.5km - no snow. Crazy windy for us.

Camp 56.6km - Camping Los Porteadores - busiest so far seems to get overnight hikers from Villa Cerro Castillo. Saw a mouse here too.

Took option 3 to Laguna Duff which is very beautiful. Met a ranger at the laguna who asked where we were camping.

Followed RR out, didn't see anyway to pay. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo. Camped at Nordic Patagonia for 9k

* '''2025 Jan 2nd to Jan 4th / 2.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2 & 3, RR, Var E / MiaimZelt'''

A very scenic route with good maintained trails and lots of watersources. All Campings are really nice: lots of flat spaces, sheltered from the wind, toilet, benches and access to water.

Day 1: Took the bus at 8 from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas. The trail from Las Horquetas is open again. Everybody has to register at the ranger kiosk. Really easy trail until Camp before the pass. Var E is beautiful and mostly hiking on a big field of rocks, marked with cairns. At pass Peñon there was still snow, but doable without microspikes. The way down is very steep. Slept at Camp El Bosque.

Day 2: Can really recommend to hike up to the nameless Laguna above El Bosque. Extremely scenic lake! Also Laguna Castillo is a real gem. Stretch of big boulders above the lake, up to the pass it gets easier. Was very warm up there and had no wind. Bring water from the lake, there is none until you reach the next Camp. Way down from the Pass is very steep with lots of scree. Hiked to Camp Neozelandes, pitched my tent and did a detour to the scenic Laguna Duff. On the way up i met a lady from the Conaf, asking where i want to sleep. Inside the NP you have to use the campgrounds.

Day 3: All the way down is very easy. Had to pay 28000 pesos for 3 days, price for chileans is only a little bit cheaper. Payment possible with card or cash. At -46.115013, -72.200497 there is an open gate with a sign "Bienvenido a Sendero Laguna Castillo". It's in OSM, but not part of the GPT-Tracks.

* '''2024 Dec 13th to Dec 17th / 5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2, RR, Var E, Var F, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really beautiful section with amazing views. The park is open but Las Horquetas remains closed, though many people are hiking it anyway. If not going over the final pass, Var F can be used to exit without paying though it possibly involves trespassing.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.00817, -72.10413 Camping Río Turbio (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, nice views, can have a lot of people there)

Night 2: same as Night 1

Night 3: -46.06419, -72.16915 Camping El Bosque (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, fewer spots than first camp site, very few are really flat)

Night 4: -46.07194, -72.18416 Camping La Tetera (technically closed campground, water access is a little way away, no really flat spots, poor wind protection, excellent views)

WATER:
Water was generally easy to find.

Day 01 - Dec 13th

We left Coyhaique around 10:30. There are buses that go that route, but we decided to hitch instead. We entered through the Opt 2 Las Horquetas route. It took us three hitches to get to the trailhead. The trailhead has a big sign that says the route is closed. I don't know if they plan to open it this season or not. At the very beginning there is an estero. There is a bridge to cross it, a little old but stable. Shortly after there is a park ranger kiosk, but it was unoccupied. Overall the trail is in good condition, easy to follow, but sometimes muddy. Beautiful views along the way. We were fortunate and had excellent weather. There are several unmarked fords in the first 16 km along Opt 2, all were easy, knee high at most. Water was generally easy to find. At the Rio Turbio campground there were around 25 other people there.

Day 02 - Dec 14th

We took Var E up to Laguna Glacier Peñón. It was a great side trip. The laguna is turquoise and the mountains surrounding it are very impressive. There were still snow fields on the way to the end of the track, so we didn't go all the way, but we got past the lake and to the other side. We saw two small avalanches while we were there. We also found a bird feather, we think from a condor, that was as long as my entire arm. We really enjoyed this side trip and recommend it. Water shoes could be helpful. We didn't have ours and it was possible without, but would have been easier and faster if we had had them. Important note, the whole route is essentially a field of small boulders. It does not require any scrambling, but it is slow going compared to the trail. We did this as an out-and-back and then returned to the Rio Turbio campground for a second night. One couple came around 22:00, but otherwise no one was there.

Day 03 - Dec 15th

We left camp around 10:00. We were ready for the Pass 43.9 and thought with only 10 km to go until Camping El Bosque we would be in camp early, but we were surprised at how challenging the day was. The first few kilometers up to the pass went fairly quickly. There was still snow on the pass, but it was at that stage where it is getting thin and you can't tell where you might fall through, so it was slow going checking our footing. The weather was great, full sun and warm, very little wind. Getting to the pass was slow but not too difficult. We stopped at the mirador for lunch and to watch the dozens of waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The descent was more challenging. It is very steep, and there was lots of scree on the way down. In one section CONAF installed a series of ropes bolted into the rocks to hold on to. Once at the bottom there was a boulder field and then a very nice forest. Amazing views of the mountains and glaciers. Camp 48.0 is a decommissioned camping area under recuperation. Camping El Bosque is at km 49.0. At Camping El Bosque there were two other couples there that night.

Day 04 - Dec 16th

From Camping El Bosque we took a side route up to see a lake. On Google Maps it is called Laguna Raimundo Vargas. It is not an optional on GPT, but it is visible on OSM. The lake is not visible on OSM, but it is on satellite, which is surprising because based on measurements using Gaia, it appears to be almost twice as big as Laguna Duff. The route up is marked by carens, but it is essentially CC across talus, about 1.3 km one way. The lake and the mountains are stunning. There were lots of ice floes on the lake. We sat for about 2 hours listening to the ice crack and watching avalanches fall. We highly recommend this detour if you have the time. Going in the evening might give a nicer light. We had lunch at Camping El Bosque and then hiked as far as Camping La Tetera, which is technically closed, and camped there for the night. Three other groups passed through and two other groups camped near us at La Tetera. It rained a bit in the evening.

Day 05 - Dec 17th

We got up very early with the plan to cross the last pass before the wind picked up. We headed up to the lookout over Laguna Castillo. About 300m of the ascent are a rock scramble which is challenging with a heavy backpack. At points we needed both hands to navigate the rocks. We were feeling exhausted from the previous days and decided not to attempt the final pass. There was no snow remaining on the final pass that we could see. We spent a few hours at the top. Lots and lots of other hikers were coming up or going through. The main trail down is very steep and had lots of loose rock on it. With heavy backpacks it was a challenge and really hard on the knees. It also took much longer than we anticipated. About two km down from the top CONAF had a tent stationed. Three guardaparques are camped there to check tickets on the way up and to radio down when people are leaving. They asked for our names. When we said we came from Las Horquetas they just said okay.
We took Var F and Var G to exit the park. Var F is clearly visible from above as you descend the main trail. The route is actually in excellent condition and is very easy to follow, however in the rain we suspect it would be very muddy. We opted to take Var G which breaks off of Var F and then rejoins it later. It goes through forest and woodland, very pretty and potentially campable in places. There were also a few places where we found water. About 2.8 km into Var F there is a sign facing downhill that says No Accesso CONAF. About 1.3 km before the road there was a gate we had to jump. 300m before the final gate we descended a hill and there were a couple buildings there. One was a baño for what looked like paid camp sites (there were picnic tables around) and one was probably a rental cabaña. We passed through two more gates that were open. At the road, the final gate was secured with a chain, but it was easy to open. On the fence outside the gate and on a second gate that was padlocked shut were two signs saying in English and Spanish “No Trespassing, Private Property”. There was also a small kiosk that looked like it could have been a ticket booth just outside the gate, but no one was in it. It is unclear if the no trespassing signs referred to the property we passed through or to a neighboring property. We didn't see anyone so we didn't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of if you leave along this route. Due to the clear no trespassing signs, the no access sign as you enter the park and the park guards near the top, I would only recommend using Var F to exit the park, not to enter it.

• * '''2024-Dec-05 to 2024-Dec-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / MR + Opt.N + Opt.M + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Start on main road very well for entry exit private fields.
Same for option N and M.
I had to take option 01 because I had bad weather... Option 01 is announced in TL but I think it would be better to validate it in TL+BB because I had BB on 6km with no path and many trees still on the path that I had to go around.
Also watch out for the Rio Blanco, where the final crossing is still mandatory, the current was quite strong despite being in December.
For the climb to Cerro Castillo from Villa Cerro Castillo I asked locals people, the passage by option F would no longer be possible because the owner of the field through which we could pass would have closed his ground to visitors. So I went through the main entrance (18000 pesos) with checkpoint entrance and when you go out, you will have my layout on the next edition of the GPT I think.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Var E/ Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: We got the public bus at 8am from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (600CLP) then started walking along the road towards Lago Monreal. Got a short hitch for about 5km, then walking again in light rain. Got a second hitch with a lovely couple who own a property right on Lago Monreal - they even had a key for the locked gate with cameras and drove us right up to the trailhead. As we started hiking up into the mountains the snow started to come down fairly heavily. Sheltered under a rock where some people must camp for lunch and was able to get water from a few sources along here. Stopped snowing so we took Var C, definitely recommend, amazing views over the lakes and would be an awesome spot to camp. Started on the sketchy traverse, problem for us was it was all under about half a metre of fresh snow, on top of a layer of very slippery ice. Luckily we wear hiking boots with deep tread so had fairly good grip even without microspikes. Hiking poles were lifesavers. Issues started with the descriptions of getting around the various gullies - they described using grass to climb up but for us everything was just white!!. Tom had a terrifying slip and slide 5m towards the cliff edge before arresting with his elbow and chin - his hiking poles had chosen this exact section to break so he was doing it without even poles. After this we backed down off the climb over the gully but in the end just had to go for it. I ended up carving steps out of the snow with my hands and packing the snow down so Tom could follow me up, and giving him one of my poles. If the snow hadn’t have been so fresh I think we would have had to turn around. I wish I could say it got better but as we started to head down into the valley we began to hit waist deep snow drifts. We were planning to camp here like others had but the snow was just too deep and we were worried about the cold so we decided to try to get over the pass and down into the forest for cover. Absolute battle wading through the snow, took turns breaking trail. Couldn’t see the river and unfortunately fell all the way through the snow and got my feet wet. Pass itself fairly easy to get over and then lots of shoe skiing down the other side. Dark fell as we got to the forest edge. Got confused by the GPX as it takes you right to the edge of a massive cliff - not great in the dark. Used other peoples notes and managed to find the trail on the other side of the river then just kept powering on until we found a clear spot on the old disused road at about (-45.98519,-72.10097). Collapsed into bed after a quick dinner at about 10pm - definitely the hardest day we’ve done on the whole GPT. Really wouldn’t recommend doing this section after heavy snow unless you have microspikes and probably an ice axe. Excellent navigation skills also a must due to lack of landmarks in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to frozen solid pants and shoes - it had dropped to -8 degrees overnight and was still -4 in the morning. After much smashing of our shoes and socks on rocks so we could put them on, we packed up the tent and headed off towards the tourist track. Passed Segundo camp, no one in sight. Finally thawing out when the sun came out. Took Var E up to the glacier - super long trip on rocky scree, worth going up to the lake but don’t go beyond like we did. Kept going along regular route after detour. Fair bit of snow on the pass, had to be very careful coming down as it was icy and windswept. Saw first glimpses of Cerro Castillo from behind. Camped at the old campsite just before El Bosque - still hadn’t seen anyone on the entire trail.

Day 3: Did the side trip up to the Laguna behind the El Bosque campsite. Headed up to the main Laguna Castillo and was nearly blown off our feet as we came over the ridge. Hid behind a boulder for lunch while we assessed whether to bail down the mountain or attempt the high pass in the winds. As we ate they seemed to die off slightly so we legged it up the mountain. Awesome views over Villa Cerro Castillo and we could see back to the Torres del Avellano. As we hit the top of the pass the wind started to pick up again. We had to hide behind boulders between gusts and then sprint to the next one to avoid being blown off the mountain. Tricky coming down the pass in the high winds as the scree was pretty loose and very exposed to the wind. Eventually made it down and to Porteadores. Decided to head up to Neozelandés so we could go up to Laguna Duff in the morning. A few people were camped here - first people we had seen on the trail!

Day 4: Plans to visit Laguna Duff were foiled as we woke up to heavy snow fall. Forecast was for even more snow so cut our losses and headed down. Visibility was terrible but passed several tour groups heading up the trail. Tried to avoid the park rangers but when we thought we were home free a guy in a Ute pulled us up as we were walking along the road towards Villa Cerro Castillo and asked where we were coming from. Took us back to the office and made us pay. Awesome section, snow and wind made it challenging but was great to have it all to ourselves until the last day.

* '''2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.

Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].

Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.

Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias'''
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.

Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.

Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.

* '''2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]

I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.

Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]

Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.

Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]

Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.

The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :

Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)

Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)

Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)

Resupply in Coyhaique:

I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.

If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.

Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.

Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.

Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.

They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.

Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.

Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.

RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.

Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.

Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.

Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.

Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.

Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.

Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.

Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."

"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."

Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.

Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.

After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.

Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.

I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.

After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.

Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.

The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.

The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.

Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.

When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.

When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.

Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.

I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.

National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.

Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.

I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.

Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.

Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.

Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.

I recorded this CC, will upload it later.

Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.

After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.

Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.

Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.

Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.

Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.

Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew'''

Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)

I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.

Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.

Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.

Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)

This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.

Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.

Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)

Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)

In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.

* '''10-Feb-2024 / Hiking / SOBO / 4 days / RR + Option B (attempted) / Ella & Cristopher'''
Day 1, we walked through the sections of private property without running into anyone, but met other local hikers a bit afterwards who said they have previously had problems with one of the landowners on the route we took, and that he has now installed cameras. Got to the section with the traverse and attempted to take Option B - definitely do not recommend this option. It took us about 2 hours to walk less than a mile on the super steep and loose dirt/skree. Multiple dangerous moments. Part of this option also seems to pass through dense forest which looked difficult to bushwhack, but we didn't make it that far before turning back as it was getting late with no end in sight. We camped right at the beginning of Option B, where there is a flatter patch and stream that you can walk down to. It was a good view, but we realized later that a better and equally beautiful place to camp would have been where the land plateaus a bit and there are multiple small streams, on the RR about a km after you pass the start of Option B. Day 2, we woke up to super windy and rainy conditions, and waited for it to clear until about 3 pm before starting the traverse. The RR turned out to be a relatively safer route than Option B, though we were still glad we waited for the bad weather to pass before attempting. Followed advice from Veronica at the difficult parts, which worked well for us. Definitely budget extra time for this stretch. Camped right after the traverse when it drops down to the river, which you follow to cross the first pass. The area doesn't get a lot of sun so it was really cold at night, but still a nice place to camp with flat spots and a river. Day 3, trail before uniting with the CONAF area was difficult to follow at points and slow because you are walking a lot on loose rocks. We were very confused when reaching a waterfall with no visible trail, but a few cairns about. Following advice from Will, we crossed the river just before the waterfall to go up the left side of the valley. Climb through the trees and then cross a few meters of steep loose dirt/skree, and you should be able to see where the trail then continues in the forest. Some bushwhacking after this but relatively easy to follow GPS track until linking with the CONAF Las Horquetas trail. Camped in El Bosque Camping which had a toilet but no water tap (though there is a river close by). Day 4, relatively easy and super beautiful walking all day. We took the RR all the way to the road, which does in fact avoid the CONAF checkpoint so we never had to pay. Ran into other hikers who said CONAF is only charging when you leave the park. Got very lucky with a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo, but I would not count on it and the road gets a lot of sun and I didn't see a water source. Bus from Villa Cerro Castillo leaves at 6 pm and goes to Coyhaique for 9.000.

Feb 2023 Frank
There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully where you climb out on grass (described by Veronica) there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline.

* '''2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie'''

We started around 1500 at Coyhaique and easily hitched to El Blanco. We hitched with three cars (last went to Lago Paloma) and walked about four km in between them along Lago Monreal to Variant M. The sign against hikers scared us and it was late (1930), so we camped nearby (100 m along the fence westward). We reread other reports and decided to go for it in the morning. We first tried to go along a fence lining a small cliff about 100 metres west of the road, but it is pointless and we found ourselves on the road after a few hundred metres. We did not meet anyone. It is easy to miss RR and start on option 1, keep an eye on the GPS. We met black cows at the same place as Stiina, but they just looked omniously at us.

As for the dangerous part, Tomáš ended up doing it three times as he dropped our tent poles from his backpack just before the start of the CC section. Unlike Nat (see below), he thinks the section is quite ok and he also found it quite scenic, especially the first part over the plateau. The annoying clambering is in fact only about two km long and can be done in about an hour if you know the way. It never felt dangerous to him, but he understands others see it differently. It is certainly more demanding than the average section of GPT. The description of Véronica is the best. The last obstacle (the boulder) is not entirely vertical (it feels like scrambling, not climbing), but you do need to use your hands and it is indeed exposed, down climbing NOBO is more awkward. On the other hand, it is only about seven metres distance (not elevation). We had sunny skies, in worse weather it would be a lot more annoying. The horseflies came back from the dead and died by the dozen under our merciless hands (Nat killed three accidentally just as she tied her hair back).

At the end of CC after the pass, the trailhead is invisible (45.9731564S, 72.1026797W). It starts in the trees immediately from the river, about 10 m above the start of the waterfall in between two landslide/avalanche bands. Will comments that the GPX trail is exact, but since we are used to the GPX being slightly off, we could not see it, I guess we should have just trusted the GPX. There is a cairn in the creek marking the entrance but it is unclear how long it will stay there. Once you reach the overgrown MR, after a hundred metres of easy BB, one can cut the first zigzag straight down through easily passable mature forest. Once down on the road, you can camp on it, it is not used by cars ever. Once you reach the CC at 60.9, do not ford but stay on that side of the river!

In the popular part of the hike, people concentrate at campings, but otherwise it does not feel too crowded (less than two dozen people met on the trails themselves per day). Until nine and from about five, you will meet almost nobody on the trails. The park is very attractive. There is good internet (Entel 4g) just before the pass at 53.5. From the other side, there is a sign saying the pass closes down in strong winds. Probably better to go there in the morning (weaker wind) or late (after six) in the afternoon (rangers have probably gone home) unless the weather is good. The sign where they turn people is probably at about 1250 altitude at roughly the treeline.

To avoid paying, Nat followed the RR and was succesfull (OSM is wrong, the official trail is to the east of the GPT in the last few hundred metres). Tomáš followed the easternmost OSM trail that leaves the RR at roughly 480 altitude. The trail is rather imaginary, but it is easy walking across meadows or rarely through open forest and across several fences. His efforts were probably pointless. Tomáš also wanted to cut the walk to Villa Cerro Castillo and forded Estero El Bosque, but it was equally pointless and involved several fences.

We found screwable gas cartridges in Villa Castillo at the supermarket "Villarica", the last supermarket on the corner of - Bernardo Higgins and Bernardo a Alessandro, I think. They said they have them sometimes. There was a blackout for five hours during our stay but locals said that is not so common.

Notes from Nat:

- When in Coyhaique be sure to enjoy the bread and pizza shop called; La Tranquera Pan y Pizza (just North of the main plaza). It has a great selection of sourdough breads/Rye/whole-wheat loafs, cookies, real coffee and tasty pizza slices. ALSO don't miss the dry good store; Envasadora Aysen (45.57016° S, 72.06883° W), the good veg shop here (45.57730° S, 72.07038° W) and then the Unimarc is actually pretty good.

- My views are prejudiced against the beginning of this route bcs I was sick and not in a good mood but my thoughts at the time were; "If you want to "enjoy" section 32 then take the Las Horquetas option". I really didn't like all the sidehilling and felt you wouldn't miss out on much if you started at Horquetas. Also don't do what I did and pack twice as much as you need bcs Coyhaique "might" be the last place with good food (however it was 3-5x better than villa Castillo).

- The first tricky part was annoying bcs it was hard to get an edge (not that there is any edge left in my shoes). It was easier to walk up it and gradually cross, all in all it didn't feel dangerous. The second tricky part did feel dangerous to me bcs I went too far climbers left of the grass staircase and ended up having to traverse the short, steep and featureless slope to get back on track, a fall seemed easy and with bad consequences. The rock scramble at the boulder did not worry me but I would not have climbed it if it was wet bcs there is a lot of algae-like material on it and some of the handholds were sloppy.

- I would be very curious if one could make a new route that went up to this lake here; -45.94848, -72.07320, and then down either here; -45.95505, -72.08753 or along the ridge to here; -45.96914, -72.08724. It would be more vertical and longer but with possibly less sidehilling...

- The glacier on Variant E (6km return, half of it moraine walking) is nice but not really worth it, the lake on the other hand is 100% worth the short walk (3km return, flat river rock waking).

- The lake just North of Camping Bosque is also worth it if you can avoid the crowds. Both this lake and Variant E lake are technically CC but "well traveled" and cairned.

- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites, I recommend it. I got into an argument with a CONAF officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of CONAF I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts west of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, it is CC, obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.

- We both had to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but many going in opposite direction (~9am)

* '''2024-Jan-28 to 2024-Jan-31 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villa Cerro Castillo - Villa Frei / RR + Option 3 + Variant C + Variant M/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was another fantastic section but we don't have much to add to what has already been written. But we would still like to point out a few points:

1) At the Segundo campsite (also called Rio Turbio), mice gnawed our tent and our dry bag containing the food. It would be best to hang your food from the trees if you are sleeping at this campsite.

2) The large rock at -45.938145, -72.086171 can be avoided by doing 10 m of bush bashing just below the rock. This passage is much more visible going NOBO but it is also possible to take it going SOBO.

3) The little detour to Variant C is definitely worth it. The view of Lago Paloma and Lago Azul is truly incredible.

4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.

* '''2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres

* '''From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel'''

Villa cerro castillo - entrance Estero Parada - Laguna Duff - Sendero las Horquetas - North part of NP (CC) - Lago Paloma - Villa Frei.

One of my favourite section so far ! I had amazing weather and I enjoyed so much this stretch, even with few people on the sendero las Horquetas in the NP (not crowded, but obviously more than the usual sections of the GPT).

Entrance fees for 3 days was 16,000 CLP for me. I had no control and have seen no guardaparque during my hike.

I walked all the way up to see Laguna Duff (OPT3) definitely worth it in my opinion. Wonderful view, with still some pieces of ices floating on the Laguna, the back of Cerro Castillo and the reflects on the water were amazing. Easy to go there, as there is a trail.

The second one (OPT3A) is more tricky, no trail, and a lot of rolling stones. Beautiful too and of course, no people at all (I slept there, without tent, just on a big rock, that was incredible).

Then go up to the pass, it was a crazy hot day, for the first time since I'm in Patagonia, I regretted that it wouldn't be a little bit windy aha.

Laguna cerro castillo Is amazing. Second pass were very nice too. Bi. I passed it early on the morning, had some snow part, doable, but as it was morning, it was icy on some parts, so I putted my crampons and that was perfect. (But doable without).

Then easy trail until the end of the public part of NP (just after Segundo camping). After that the cross country part begun. Follow an old trail of the NP, some bush bashing during the forest part, and have to check often the GPS. Then you have to deal with all the rocks until the first pass.

Go down on a nice valley, and go up to the second pass. Tricky part, as described previously, is the big rock. It's maybe easier to do it NOBO because you descent it, and don't face it, which can be scary. But going on the grass part is the best way. Then follow the tree level, deal with rolling stones, and everything is gonna be alright. The récompense will be the amazing view on Lago Paloma (don't miss the Mirador).

I took the variant M to avoid the right of way conflict. No trouble at all on this way. You have to pass threw some gates. The last one, near a kind of central hydroelectric is the biggest, with camera and sign do not enter. Few people seen after this gate, and they were all very gentle and nice !

Anyway, I really loved this stretch ! As it's summertime at this time, I met a lot of chilenos in the NP, so happy to see even very young chilenos explore their outstanding country !

You have to be prepared to face a looooot of rolling stones on this section, sometimes it's like dancing on rocks. Can I say that the rolling stones make this stretch rock'n'roll ? Probably not.

Better to wait for good conditions. I can't imagine this section on a rainy and windy day !

* '''2024-Jan- 11 to 2024-Jan-13/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ Start in Las Horquetas and later RR/ Paulina'''

I started in las Horquetas, it was open even if on Conaf website this section is still closed, apparently they don't really update). When I was there ( 10 AM) nobody at the gate, so no charges. Later in the park nobody never asked me to show the entrance ticket. The same at the exit gate, they just asked me to check out ( even if I did not check in).
At the beginning of Las Horquetas trail, some very easy river crossing. Almost no people, only a few hikers on the campsite.
On Pass 32 [43.9/1470] still some soft snow, but I could cross it safetly.

Be careful on the ridge around pass 32 [ 53.5/1679] on very windy days.
I did not see any water around camping Los Porteadores, except this last section, water was available everywhere.

Beautiful and very scenic section!

* '''2023-12-29 to 2024-01-01 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Variant D & M / Roman'''

Took a Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei for 17.000$. Got another lift by someone who life's there to this point: -45.8737, -72.04342. Joined via Variant M to the RR. Camped at Camp {32} [23.6/1010]. Good place you have to Ford 2 times before the Camp and 1 times directly after it. Here the -45.93357, -72.07606 Clambering in steep terrain starts and is very challenging also in combination with snow. Very steep literally climbing up there here: -45.938145, -72.086171 especially with a backpack. I needed to go very slow and cautious with 3 point technique. After that you can follow the GPS and the Kerns to this point -45.973087, -72.102771. From there a old abandoned road goes all the way to the point where the Trail( Variant D) merges with the Sendero de Chile Las Horquetas at: X {32-D} [1.0/920]. On the trial are some parts which are not perfectly visible but with GPS no problem. There are some fallen trees and quite a few small trees on the trail. I wouldn't consider it Bush Bashing (BB) because you can just raise your arms in front of your face and walk trough it. So IMHO no BB on the route. As soon as you are at X {32-D} [1.0/920] it's a "touristy trail" compared with the other GPT parts. Therefor the condition is excellent. Camped at Segundo Camping -46.008184, -72.104121. Next day camped at Camping Los Porteadores -46.089085, -72.235431. Snow was neither on Pass {32} [43.9/1470] or Pass {32} [53.5/1679] a problem. Next day hiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. Not a single car on the street towards it so needed to hike. The RR avoids the Entrance Cerro Castillo Park (Estero Parada) there is one gate before accessing the street where you can just hop over.

Overall: really nice section and quite relaxing to have such a easy trail (the beginning is challenging due to the rock scramble). It's the most touristy part (2 groups a 7 people) but absolutely woth it. Really enjoyed it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-12 / 6 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Variant D + Variant F / Tom Pieper'''
An Uber from Cohayique to Villa Simpson is about 9.000 Peso. From there I easily found rides to Lago Elizalde. A older man told me that there was also a camino from Lago Elizalde to Lago Azul passing cerro sombrero a couple of years ago. I really liked the walking through the valley to lago desierto. It passes a beautiful farmland landscape sprinkled with little lush patches of forest and creeks. Camping is easy there. But if you want to speed up there are also cars from time to time and hitchhiking is possible. At S 45° 52.495 W 072° 16.913 is a little shelter surrounded by some old tractors and a big mate cup installation. A farmer passing by told me I am welcome to stay there. To reach lago desierto you have to climb a locked gate (well described by Kara Davis). I crossed lago desierto and camped at the isthmus between it and lago azul. There is a nice camp spot at waypoint Lake {32} [38.3/337] surrounded by old gooseberry bushes and an abandoned van. The central lodging building is collapsed so its seems to be an abandoned place now except the cattle. Next day I crossed lago azul. The wind increased dramatically forming up to 1 m waves. There are some emergency exits on the left even after the shore gets steeper after the settlers on the lefthand side. At the end of lago azul you reach a huge private hacienda on the isthmus, with a big park like forest and buildings within. I tried to sneak between the buildings but to reach the path to the mountains you finally have to pass a big meadow. There was a greenkeeper around and it was no problem for him to let me pass. The family was not around. The track to the mountains is steep and part of a big network of mountainbike trails. This network spans nearly the entire valley! I met six young chilenos who told me that they are working the summer to maintain the trails only for that family – I have never seen such a giant mountainbike network! Incredible how much effort and money must spend here only to satisfy a family’s hobby. The Chilenos were very friendly and even turned back to offer me a ride to the end of the valley as rain increased but I kept walking. This track is in really good conditions up to the bush bashing section. And here comes the problem: 1.) the bush bashing is wrong annotated. In reality it starts for 1.2 km at the end of the annotated section 2.) the track is mostly gone were it reaches the river bed. Landslides have washed away a big part. Don’t cross the landslide! It seems super instable! When you have forded the riverbed at the landslide don’t put on your shoes, yet. The following part has turned into swamp land. I suggest to make the entire 1.2 km in your fording footwear. After that the track to the las horquetas trail is mostly overgrown or blocked by trees but still visible. It was pretty hard for me as temperatures dropped to 4 °C and at this point it had not stopped raining for 48 hr. In bad weather that’s definitely no fun. The ranger hut was my salvation as it was abandoned but open and had a stove and even some firewood. The next day the weather was perfect and I continued towards cerro Castillo. There had been recent work around Camping Rio Turbio and the track is still in good condition. Paso Penón has heaps of snow and I found myself sinking to the hips from time to time. But in good weather it is ok. The views from the pass and the following valley even outcompeted the view from laguna castillo. After the paso penón the rest is fine. I used Variant F to descend. As mentioned before it now follows a different way in the end due to right of way conflict and you reach the street at approximately half way between villa cerro Castillo and the national park entrance.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''05-Apr-2023 / Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

We really enjoyed this one. It's definitely worth waiting for good weather, not only for safe traverse of the steep part in the northern part of the park and following obstacles that are quite demanding but also for the views that were just incredible.

Starting from Villa Frei in the late afternoon, we made it on that day to the turn before Lago La Paloma, where we camped right behind a fence, before a little river, that you need to cross to follow the RR. There are 2 settlements, but still far enough, so no problem. You have to cross one fence and a gate on the way up. To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side. Crossing them will take you directly to RR, so no bush-bashing is necessary. From there, the trail is pretty straightforward. We liked the view from Option B viewpoint and in good conditions it must be a perfect spot for camping, definitely doable in one day. The steep traverse didn't feel that dangerous for us, but we had really good conditions. The next obstacle, already described by others, is at the end of the traverse. We followed there a small ridge that will take you to the beginning of the grass parts. It's a little steep, but doable. From there we followed the grass parts, which create almost 'stairs' allowing you to climb up. It's again steep, but you can use your hands to pull yourself up, holding the grass patches. After that is the last challenging part, a rock that you need to climb over. We got there already after sunset and without an option to explore the best and safest way over, we decided to follow the old overgrown trail, that descends down without the need to climb over the rock. It seemed to be hard in the beginning, but after we got through the first few trees (without any leaves, just branches), we found a little strip without them, that takes you all the way down to the river, where we camped. It took us around 15 min to get down, so it might be a good alternative. From there you just need to walk through a little part of the forest and then continue by the river, so you are actually avoiding also the descent down, which some described as challenging as well.

After the first marked pass and descent in rocky terrain, the CC part connects to an old trail, that later becomes a MR. The connection was easy to find by following the GPS. We had no problems passing around the rangers house, again by following the track files, at first through the forest and later around the river. From there the trail connects to the official way which makes navigation easy. We spent the night in the official campsite around 2 km before Laguna Carro Castillo, which is the only one open. There were 5-6 other tents, no ranger. The next day the weather got way way worse, which made us skip the last pass and go down from the laguna via one of the official routes. We met a ranger on the way up, pointing us to the official trail around yellow cairns, to sign off from the park. With no intention to pay on our way from the park, we actually followed some old trail (according to the old signs we met) that took us to the main road, right in front of the bridge. We had to cross one fence, but no other problem. It's a faster and safe way from the park.

* '''5 to 7 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO / 3 days'''

Amazing section! I was worried about the tricky part, but sticking to the gpx track it didn't feel dangerous to me. Though I did have to leave the track to find easier ways around the cliffs.

There weren't any buses south out of Coyhaique on Sunday (except maybe early morning?). I ended up taking an Uber to villa frei, for a bearable 14000 pesos. The road walk was beautiful except for the wind trying to blow me into the cars. I caught a ride to Lago Monreal, from where I walked back up to variant L and then to the 23.6 campsite.

I didn't have any right of way trouble, I just had to pass through a few unlocked gates with no people or buildings in sight. There were even a few groups of day hikers who passed by my camp on the way to the Lago Paloma mirador (variant B - must see!).

I also took variant D up to the glacier lake, worth it if it fits your schedule. I didn't have time to keep going up to the glacier itself, it looked like steeper rocky cross country.

Even in the touristy parts the trail was surprisingly slow and rocky. I ran into a few rangers, who look like normal hikers except with red and white baseball hats. They were ok with me not having a ticket once I explained my weird route.

* '''15.02.23 -18.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO'''
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo

We hitchhiked from Coyhaique to Lago Paloma and started walking around 13:30 pm following the main path.

The trail at the beginning is pretty good. At the junction with the option at km 17,5 you can walk further uphill along the fence for a couple of meters to enter the fence through a gate. This option is not in the gpx files. We decided to follow that to avoid the settlers after all.Then you can follow the dirtroad through two more gates until you reach a fence that you have to jump to the right to get to a meadow with beehives. There is another gate there and then you reach the main route again. In total we only had to jump two fences.

Then we followed the main route. Soon after we went through the gate of the National park Cerro Castillo and we (unfortunately) met two guardians of the park. After some back and forth they made us turn around, telling us that this path is closed and we have to enter the park via the main entrance and pay the 30.000 clp. So we had to take the option to las Horquetas.

After a few good km on a dirtroad, the path of option 1 gets bad. It seems like it hasn't been used for a long time. It was often hard to find and involved some bushbashing. It took us quite some time to get through there. Once you are at the river it gets much better. We forded the river next to the entrance to avoid the detour until Horquetas. The option was not very nice. Mostly just walking in the forest with BB so we would definetly recommend to try the main route.

The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets. The park guardians tell you that there is no water crossing both passes and you have to carry it from the official camps, which is simply not true. There is only no water after Laguna Castillo.

At the exit (following the RR) we had to register us again. From there we planned to hitchhike to Villa Cerro Castillo, but there were no cars passing by. In the afternoon/evening it's probably easier to get a ride, because lots of cars parked at the exit. We would recommend Option E to avoid the dull roadwalk to Villa Cerro Castillo.

We stayed at Camping El Rincon, which was only 4.000 clp p.p., with no electricity, but the owner washed our clothes after we asked and we received it dry the next morning :)

* '''18 to 21 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT32 RR SOBO / 3.5 days'''

Route: Villa Freí - Lago La Paloma - north part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo - Las Horquetas trail (south part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo) - Villa Cerro Castillo
First off I want to say that I think this section deserves a 5 on the Attractiveness Scale. It is simply mind-blowingly beautiful and definitely on par with other sections further north that have a 5 on this scale. I also think the Difficulty Rating should be upped to a 5 as well, due to the technical, and arguably dangerous at times, section in the northern part of the park on the Regular Route. Wish I had someone with me during this stretch, but oh well, such is life.

I was lucky and caught a hitch most of the way to Lago La Paloma on the first day. It was hot and I don't think the road walk has any water sources until you get to the end. I then followed the new RR which bypasses the problematic right-of-way settler in the Lago Monreal area. However, this new detour is not fun. It involves climbing over (or crawling through/under) multiple barbed wire fences. I lost count after the 5th or 6th one. Also, the path and cross-country area are full of thorny plants, they got everywhere on my pack and clothing. I think it would just be better to take Option 32-L and chat with the settler instead to try and get through. Once you reach RH-MR-V {32} [18.9+4.7], it's all good, easy walking until the camp at 23.6 km.

I reccomend taking Option 32-A after the campsite instead of the CC straight through the cow pasture. It is wet and muddy, whereas 32-A remains dry and easy to follow in the forest at the edge of the meadow. I also strongly recommend taking the short detour to the mirador at the end of Option 32-B. The views there of the cliffs and mountains surrounding Lago La Paloma are incredible. You could even camp there if you brought sufficient water and the weather is calm.

Now for the difficult part in the 8-km cross-country section. This section was physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. The first pass is at S 45° 55.740', W 072° 04.501'. It is easy walking up past the treeline into the alpine up to this point. The first challenge is a steep and unstable scree traverse, which begins at S 45° 56.019', W 072° 04.567'. Follow the GPS tracks here. At first I tried to go lower, right along the treeline, which was a big mistake that got me stuck in a terrible gully of slippery hard-packed sand. Very treacherous and scary trying to traverse it on all fours. After that ordeal, I scrambled back up to the altitude of the GPS tracks. This first scree traverse lasts about a km, the rocks are loose and it is very steep. I was tense and went very slowly. Got harassed by tábanos the whole way, but at least the weather was good.

Then at S 45° 56.288', W 072° 05.184', you reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side. Figuring out how to get up that cliff was hard for me. I left my pack at the bottom and tried climbing up various different ways with no success, only tiring myself out and getting myself in precarious situations where I could barely climb back down. I finally figured out the best way was to try and get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully.

The next big obstacle is at S 45° 56.320', W 072° 05.446'. Like others have written, this is the vertical rock wall that spans up and down the mountain and that you have to climb over. I scouted ways up without my pack at first, trying to find the easiest way. At least with this rock wall, the handholds and footholds are solid — no slippery gravel/sand/scree. But it does require actual rock climbing moves. If you fall you would likely tumble down the mountain, so please be very careful. A light backpack makes it relatively safer and easier.

On the other side of this wall, you can finally see where the trees end, and the lovely river you are supposed to climb down to reach. But there is still more scree to traverse here, and it is slow and unstable again. I tried taking a shortcut down a shallow gully filled with grass. I figured it would be safer than the rocks, but it was very steep and got unexpectedly muddy at one point, and I ended up slipping and sliding down the mountainside about 10 meters before being able to stop myself. Didn't get seriously hurt, just bruised up, but it really shook me and just added to the stress and fear of this whole section. So I guess my advice here is to again follow the GPS tracks across the scree and go down gradually to the river instead of trying to go straight down.

Once you reach the riverbed, it is easy walking to the top of the pass, with occasional cairns (and some good swimming holes). Down the south side of the pass, there are still a couple scree sections, but not nearly as bad as before. Lots of boulders, so slow going, but at least they felt more solid.

As Martin Lizondo has written, finding the start of RH-MR-V {32} [34.1+1.7] is tricky. It is not a minor road, it is an old footpath. The cross-country section ends at a creek as it turns into a high and steep waterfall. You have to cross the creek and look up to find a faint, overgrown trail that goes up into the forest. Once you find it though, it is simple enough to follow. There is a stretch though of several hundred meters where it is more of a bushwhack than anything else, nature has taken over.

I followed the regular route that cuts through the forest to Río Turbío, I assume this is to avoid the ranger station nearby. The "bushbashing" section is easy through a mature forest, and then you just follow the bouldery riverbank.

Once you get to the popular Las Horquetas trail, everything is easy until the end of the section. Some snow at the top of the first pass (Paso Peñón), but very manageable. The views of the saw-toothed mountains, lakes, and glaciers are spectacular. Despite reports of the park being "overrun," I only met a handful of other hikers in this trail, and most of them after Laguna Castillo. No rangers at all.

I think the Regular Route in its current configuration avoids the blue payment tent at the end of the park trail, but I didn't know that when I passed through, and ended up just following the riverbank down to the minor road to be safe (and avoid paying the ridiculous 30,000 clp access fee). The road walk to Cerro Castillo was Easy and uneventful.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR SOBO / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

We started at Lago La Paloma, taking the bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (leaves at 8:15,15:30,17:30&19:30 from monday to friday and at 8:00 and 14:00 on saturday (no bus on sunday)). Then we hitchiked to the lake without problem and we camped there. Ready to start in the morning the next day.

Day 1 - Campamento Rio Turbio - 26.5km - +1800m/-1200m A big day but we hadnt the choice : heavy rain was announced for the next day... Cross country is demanding, better follow the tracks all the way long. A great camp site if you want to split this day is at the end of Option B. No water, windy but incredible view. The waypoint camp before is nice too.

Day 2 - Campamento El Bosque - 10km - +800m/-800m The 2 camps sites on the GPT at47.8 and at 50.3 are now forbidden. The new campsite is approx at km 49, in the middle. There is guardaparques, but no need to show the permit for us.

Day 3 - Cerro Castillo - 11km - +800m/-1500m The pass after Cerro Castillo was closed due to the wind. If you want to go to the other side, you have to get down at the park entrance and to go up again at the other entrance. We just went to the town. The regular route going down from there, from the Cerro Castillo, is not the one on the GPT. Actually, it goes more on the west side. At the end, there is a guardaparque, we checked out (even though we didn’t checked in) but no need to pay. Fortunately. Luck was with us.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR NOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

We've walked all section 32 from Villa Frei to Villa Cerro Castillo. The part from Lago Paloma to Rio Turbio is very difficult and might be even dangerous (especially in bad weather). The CC travers on the stones (in our case with strong wind and snow) was the hardest part. The MR leading down to the valley is partially overgrown. The second part is well marked with good camping possibilities. After heavy rains on Sunday 25th, the park has been closed for more than a week. There are 2 alerts on the road (see above).

* '''Feb 17 RR 3 days SOBO Frank'''

Walked from Villa Frei. After about 12KM there is a food truck next to the road. Owners live there so should open for you. The owner of the private land wasn't there so had no access issues. You can camp in a big meadow @ 1250 metres or in good weather at a pass @ about 1325 metres (not marked on track file) just before the difficult CC section begins. Followed Veronica's advice to get up the gully on grass which worked well, thanks Veronica. There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline. The second bypass is not very obvious but stay at the treeline & you will get through easily. After the pass, descending scree you come to a waterfall. Go left into the forest immediately before the waterfall - you may see a small cairn marking the spot. Just footprints at first but pick up a small trail as you go in. Leaving the park the RR to the left goes through private land. The optional route straight down is now the main trail, it goes down to a checkpoint just before the road. Checkpoint is at a stile over a fence so can't be avoided. It is run as a private 'concession' from CONAF. The workers were friendly & didn't charge me anything. However next year the concession will be run by a different company so depends who is there.

* ''' Note on Options 4, 7 and 8:'''
GPT32 Option 4: is the gravel road to Lago Elizalde and Lago el Desierto. A subsidized bus travels this route 2 or 3 times per week.
GPT32 Option 7 and 8: Are routes published on Wikiloc and/or www.suda.Io. This means someone took these routes in the last years but not much more information are available.
(Source Jan Dudeck: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1498106867361861/ )

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 05-07, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

We continued into this section straight from the previous one - 31H and the start of it, about first 16km, is like the whole previous section - dirt road. We hiked about 5 of those 16km and hitched the rest which I think was possible quite easy because it was weekend and a lot of cars with families were going to the Lago La Paloma.

The interesting part started once we were at the gate after crossing the outflow of Lago Monreal. The big sign was posted there stating that this is not some Sendero de Chile and that passing through here is strictly forbidden. We saw a guy at the gate when we were approaching, but as it was lunch time for us we stayed at the stream. Afterwards the guy was gone and there was no phone signal to call the nr. that Martin Lizondo has provided. After considering options of different routes we decided to keep it cool and climbed over the gate with fingers crossed. There were houses a few hundred meters up the road, but nobody seemed to be at home at that point, perhaps working in the field somewhere in the back, so we walked through the forbidden land without anyone intercepting, luck was with us. A few more gates later we climbed up into the forest and finally the Cerro Castillo National park with a big old welcoming sign. We stayed at the first marked campsite at 22,7km, there is a stream.

Next morning as we were having our breakfast about 30 cows showed up and were completely dazzled by our presence. They stared at us for about 15min until they finally relaxed a bit, but not fully. As we were packing our camp some sudden movement must have scared them and they all went running for their lives as if a Kraken himself was after them, silly cows, we thought. Once we were all packed and ready to go we crossed the stream into the next meadow, and saw all the cows about 200m to our left. I am not exactly sure how cows work, but as soon as they saw us they organized a gang and all of them started running right at us. We of course were standing our ground so the cows would stop just 5m from us and look all tough. I would try to scare them away by counter attack in the form of a shouting, hiking pole waving lunatic. It worked to some extent, as we could slowly walk out of it, but the cows kept persistently be really close and walk/run at us. I guess they were trying to protect their pasture, maybe someone can enlighten me about cow-dynamics.

After the great battle of 2022, we disappeared in the forest and enjoyed the nice forest path while it lasted. Once out of the three line the path disappeared so we more or less followed the GPS marking. Neither of our maps showed the mentioned old path descending down into the valley, it was actually matching with the GPS, more or less. Up to the first pass, which is not marked, but is at about 26,8km the cross country was easy and then as mentioned before it got pretty difficult. If it would just be steep scree slope it would be alright, but this one had hard packed sand under the scree or sometimes no scree on it so it was very slippery (in dry conditions). Lots of prayers went to the Gods of Friction which helped us with traversing the treacherous slopes, with plenty of chances to become a statistic. I don’t think that that traverse is possible in wet conditions, not without crampons. And as for every good cake there is always a cherry on top, which was a little rock climbing session, which I personally didn’t mind, but I am not sure other hikers would appreciate. After that we still had to descend a steep scree down to the river. If there is a potential trail or option to go down the valley after the pass and then follow the river bank up, I think it is definitely a better, faster and safer option, especially if weather is not favorable. And looking from above down the valley it seemed like a feasible option to follow the river as the river itself was easily crossable and we didn’t spot any cliffs there, maybe next time.

After reaching the river at the valley bottom the way up to the second pass was easy and straight forward, even though still “sin sendero”. The way down from the pass is steep and bouldery but not dangerous and after a short bit some first signs of an old trail can be noticed, some cairs appear. Then once the trail gets down to the tree line there are a few bushy places, but nothing too bad and the closer to the actual trail you get the better it becomes. We also somewhat followed the GPS track but stayed more in the forest rather than beach to avoid the ranger hut.

Once we made it to the Las Horquetas trail all our worries were behind us and we could enjoy the nice trail and magnificent views. I don’t think I have ever seen tree line ending almost at the edge of the glacier in Europe it was happening a century ago, pretty cool stuff. We camped at the “segundo camping” with many other hikers, none doing the GPT though. And an interesting thing we observed was that people would just drink straight from the silty glacier stream without filtering or treating their water at all. Observation was made of different groups of people at different campsites. Is that a Chilean thing? Very impressive gut, if they can do it, unless ignorance is a bliss or they knew something that we didn’t.

Nevertheless, two more mountain passes and we were heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo, with crowds of day-hikers that had come up to the Mirador Cerro Castillo. From there we actually didn’t follow the GPS track but headed down straight to the town. The ticket office with the park official is actually around this area: (46º 6.7520' S, 72º 12.0032' W). And the trail leading there is the official trail. The one that seemed on the map like the official, was actually not in use, not sure why. The satellite view on Gaia and info on the maps is somehow outdated. We tried to sneak past the office to avoid all explaining we had to do, but it’s kind of strategically placed so it wasn’t possible and we ended up just talking to the girl that was making sure everyone is checking out of the park. We had to pay 18.000 pesos per person which is the ticket for foreigners that want to go up to the mirador. We didn’t spill the beans about camping in the park and our small backpacks kept the suspicion low, so in the end it all worked out pretty good. From there it is still almost 5km to the town on a very dusty road, but with all the day hikers leaving a hitch was not a problem.

The town is really nice with plenty of shops and accommodations options. The only thing we didn’t manage to find was the threaded gas canister, but we found a few half-empty ones left in the Nordic Patagonia mess tent.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2021-Dec-18 to 2021-Dec-22 / Option 6 (Valle Balboa), Regular Route (Packrafting Lago Desierto and Lago Azul) and Option 9 (Packrafting Lago Paloma) / Northbound and Westbound / Meylin and Jan'''

General Remark:
This route provides an attractive alternative to the overrun Cerro Castillo trail. The popular Cerro Castillo trail is also highly regulated (obligatory camp sites, closed in suboptimal weather) and costly (27’000 CLP entrence fee) therefore this alternative should be considered by hikers and packrafters.
At the upper terminus of the Valle Balboa is a 5 km long and 400 m wide pasture at an altitude of 1100 m. To utilize this pasture for cattle summer grazing, settlers build a 18 km long trail through the forrest along the Rio Balboa.
This very scenic Valle Balboa trail was hiked and published on Wikiexplora by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn. But the southbound descent down to Rio Ibañez was made by climbing down with a rope in very steep terrain because the location of the descending trail was not yet documented.
Therefore we investigate this route in the opposite direction to search the southern trailhead to incorporate a feasible hiking traverse from Rio Balboa to Rio Ibanez in the GPT network.

Summary of Northbound Investigation:
Tobias Hellwig suggested where the southern trailhead may be located. A detailed analysis of satellite images and elevation profiles supported this and a local resident confirmed this assumption. After an hour of searching we found the southern trailhead. This trail terminates at a 400 m by 60 m pasture at abandoned camp (“Camp A”) from where no trail appears to continue.
To continue through the last section of forrest we bush-bashed through very steep terrain and continued trail-less through a rather open forrest until reaching open terrain (“Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez”). From this point we traversed the open terrain on a slightly higher route than recorded by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn and meet the previously recorded route at the descent into the Valle Balboa (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”).
From this point we followed closely the previously recorded route in the Valle Balboa from where we packrafted westbound over Lago Desierto, Lago Azul and Lago Paloma.

Recommendation for Southbound Hikers and Packrafters:
Hikers that wish to bypass the Cerro Castillo trail may either road-walk 25.5 km from Villa Frei via Lago Elizalde to Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 4) or take the bus from Coyhaique to Lago Caro and leave the bus just after the bridge over Rio Paloma.
Alternatively hikers may walk along the lakes Lago Paloma, Lago Azul and Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 5) but bypass the buildings at the trail start to avoid a right-of-way dispute (see yellow arrow on the image that first follows the beach of Lago Paloma and than sneakers in between some trees to the trail).
Packrafters best paddle the three lakes to get to Rio Balboa. Note that the predominant wind direction is westbound.
After reaching the western end of Lago Desierto hikers and packrafters closely follow the route of GPT32 Option 6. Note that the multiple river crossings of Rio Balboa may become impassable after heavy rain and are generally easier in the morning (due to snow and glacier melting water that reaches it maximum in the evening).
After reaching open terrain at Kilometer 24 (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”) hikers and packrafters traverse 5 km open terrain to the waypoint “Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez” while enjoying the wide open view into Valle Ibanez. Starting from Kilometer 24 do not follow any more track “EXP-OP-TL-V {32-06} [0.0+30.6]”.
After entering the rather open forrest best follow the 8 waypoints of “Proposed Improvement for Investigation”. This bush-bashing route probably avoids the very steep descent that we struggled to get up with our heavy packrafting gear. When reaching the trail (either “Record 1” or “Record 2”) follow the generally well-visible and well-maintained trail to “Exit Forrest Valle Ibanez”.
Note that that “Record 1” and “Record 2” includes all our searching, so don’t take these tracks as an instruction but use your common sense to follow only the relevant parts.
When reaching Rio Ibanez packrafters can float on the river towards Cerro Castillo while hikers must walk along the northern side of Rio Ibanez to Cerro Castillo.
As an add-on hikers and packrafters may take GPT32 Option 3 to visit a less frequented trail of Parque Cerro Castillo.

(Note: taken from here https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1256244101548140/ - now the options are part of the GPT Track files, the Facebook post includes pictures.)

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Section 32, Option 7: Valle Balboa. Southbound. 11 days (including waiting out a snow storm). Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.'''

After walking Section 35 we emerged in Cochrane to a world changed by the virus. We retreated to the now unfriendly Chili Chico and caught the ferry across to Ibáñez in the morning. For my mum and sister, getting back to Santiago to catch a flight home had been the priority, but on the way they shifted more to the stance I was taking: what was the point? Get stuck in Australia, or here? Patagonia didn't seem all that bad, and apart from facemasks and hand sanitiser, there were no shortages like back home. By the time we reached Coyhaique we'd all decided to stay a week or so to hatch a plan. We met up with Aldo and camped in his backyard for almost a week. I helped build his house a bit, but time was mostly filled with playing chess, dice, cards and guitar. The atmosphere seemed to encourage a lethargic state, blurring the days together and bending time. Finally however, we packed and walked into the town centre to make a start on the interesting option #007 of Section 32 through Valle Balboa, (traversing roughly from Lago Desierto to Río Ibáñez). With the virus and public transport on hold, it seemed unlikely the bus to Villa Freí (that we took last time for the RR of Section 32) would be running. We asked a taxi driver for a quote to drive us out. We grabbed some more supplies, and then caught a taxi with a much friendlier driver to Lago Elizalde ($15k). The driver showed us a great public camping spot on the shore of the lake. There were many established camp sites back from [close to] the beach. It was such a nice spot that we decided to lay back and spend the afternoon and night there.

In the morning, we walked the road to Río Paloma, scoring a lift for 5ks or so. We camped by the river not far before the end of the road.

In the morning we walked the last bit of the public road to where it ends at the very rickety bridge over Río Mogote. There is a nice little camping spot here (-45.91100, -72.31823). Climbing over the locked gate, we walked the private road to the ford. We tossed up visiting Lago Desierto and the people living next to it, but with the virus decided against it. This meant we didn't actually have to cross the river, instead locating the old road to the south. (The track files follow the road, but it is no longer used by vehicles and it is actually easier to head back down the main road a couple of hundred metres to where a cattle trail exists (-45.91601, -72.30806)).

Following this distinct road for some time, it seemed to be used for horse riding tours as there were coloured signs like "Spanglish" and "Toobooku" on the side. You will soon reach the gate included in the track files. Here there is also access to a bridge across Estero Balboa. It looks like you can then access trails most of the way up to Cerró Negro. This might be interesting if someone wants to explore.

A couple hundred metres after the gate the old road ends and an obvious trail continues to a miskept farmhouse. Continue along the well defined trail that gets a bit scrubby/overgrown before entering the forest. The trail is then very well maintained although quite muddy in spots (I could see it being quite bad after rain). You will need to ford a tributary not marked in the track files (-45.95592, -72.35114). Shortly afterwards is a junction (-45.95654, -72.35216). The route up the side valley could be explored if someone wants - we went only a short way to a corral. The track will dip back down to the river where there is an established camp (-45.97039, -72.35461). Continuing up the valley, there are many more established camps - the best are generally in close proximity to the fords.

The first time you cross the estero is about here: (-45.98105, -72.36205). There is only one ford, not two as the track files indicate. At the next couple of fords, the actual track deviates slightly from the track files. If you follow the current track files, you will avoid crossing the river at all, but will end up bush bashing briefly. We crossed the next two fords, but by staying on the west side of the river they should also be easily avoidable.

The trail exits the forest (-46.02116, -72.42538)(the camp marked in the track files here is a swamp - go further up the valley!) from where it is cross country walking, not actually a trail as indicated. We camped next to the puesto which incorporates some pieces of a crashed plane (we found another piece whist exploring, but not the actual crash site). The route up to the Laguna Campana is also open and straight forward.

We waited out a rainy day only to wake to a snow storm the next!... and the next!. We ended up waiting 4 nights experimenting with some different bread recipes whilst we waited out the inclement weather.

Finally a sunny day! Continue up the valley, CC walking past an old corral. At the Nacimiento del Estero Balboa you again briefly enter the trees. Like the previous marked camp, again this whole area was very swampy and I didn't see a suitable place to camp. The camp included in the track files is in the middle of a swamp! We picked up fragments of a track heading up through the trees, but I think it is very vague or overgrown. That said, we had nearly a foot of snow in places so we could have easily missed things! There is a very obvious section of track here : (-46.05648, -72.47298). You'll quickly exit the trees (-46.05923, -72.47005) and start a long CC section in the alpine. We found some sections of trail, but for us it was mostly cross country walking. Plenty of water options the whole way.

When you enter the forest after completing the alpine section (-46.08687, -72.43537), you will be bush bashing for a long time! There was no discernible track even when we criss-crossed over the track files searching for it (no snow here anymore). Approaching the deep gorge, I decided to lead us a different, less steep way. This worked well and we camped at a very nice spot by the stream at the bottom (-46.09414, -72.42582).

The next day we were debating simply following the river down (I wish we had!). Instead, we headed straight up the other side of the gorge. We located part of an old track here (-46.09685, -72.42463) but quickly lost it as we passed through the saddle (I think maybe it continues north?). Rejoining the suggested investigation route (EXP-OP-TL-I@32-07-#003), there is a good stream (-46.10202, -72.42403) and some camping on its banks.

After some horrible bush bashing, we finally made it to a ravine gashing steeply down the mountain (-46.10598, -72.41534). There were many drops and it was impossible to go directly down. We later found out that the only other party to do this part had a rope! I can't really recommend going down here [and my sister can't recommend it at all! - "This is shit!"] Again, I'd recommend taking the main valley. The climbs we did were much more difficult than those on the northern part of Section 32 RR that people complain about. Also, if doing this option, it would be much easier travelling north! You could also consult the settlers on a better route. We finally reached the bottom where it opens up after about ~6hrs!

Continuing, if you do follow EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, the track files indicate there is a trail, but it is not quite so. There are CC sections and a labyrinth of cattle trails. You will need to use them to your advantage where they exist, and leave them when they go the wrong way. We went this way for a little while, but then tried following a primary cattle track that seemed to be heading directly down to the river... but we got stopped by a swamp (-46.11623, -72.41080). Continuing along EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, you will get CC walking from the woods (after a cliff) about here: (-46.11546, -72.42372) If we were there again we would follow EXP-OP-CC-A@32-07-#004 down past the settler to the river. It then looked easy to walk along the river north to the cable car.

The cable car: Don't use this by yourself! Don't use it if you are only two! Use it with three people minimum! I can't stress this enough. There is a lot of fiction and the locals we talked to here don't even consider it safe. They used the boat which has its own steel cable allowing you to tack across with relative ease. You will get wet feet if using the boat.

Taking the cable car, we only just made it across with one in the car and two hauling on the rope, and at one point it looked like my sister might get stranded on the far side (she had a nightmare that night!).

Carretera Austral: We waited the entire day by the Carretera Austral. Finally catching a colectivo late in the afternoon. With the virus, it was hard/imposible to hitchhike. We paid an inflated price ($3kpp) for transport to Cerró Castillo.

* '''2020-March-6 / Ty & America / 4.5 Days SOBO RR. Start @ El Blanco'''

We started in El Blanco, opting to hike by Lago Montreal, which was pretty nice. No traffic though, so if you’re wanting a hitch the regular start in Villa freí may be a better option. Settlers in Lago Montreal are super friendly. There’s a bit of water there as you pass by the lake. We camped there. I recommend going further to the marked camp though because the next day is a big challenge. RH-CC-A@32-25.2+7.9 Is the Cruz of the section. After this all good. I do not recommend doing this unless you’re very comfortable on your feet and have a lightweight pack.

-stick to the treeline/marked path on this. The traversing is tough, but completely doable. 2-3 km in is the gully with the very difficult climb. Keep the the grassy patch, getting to the base of it was the most dangerous part for us. Very slippery rock. I had America drop her pack. High risk, but I was MUCH more comfortable.

-about a k after is the second dangerous area. This is a straight rock wall that spans all the way up& down the mountain. The only way through is to climb around. I checked below it and didn’t find a way through the trees. I took both Sanita & America’s packs through this section; as again, it’s very high risk..with an actual climbing move involved. Again, it’s important you’re very comfortable with your pack to get through these parts.

After these dangerous sections we were wiped out and camped in the valley before the pass. Lots of places to camp with good water. Be aware of slight rockfall risk. There’s an amazing place to camp with ideal conditions at the top of the pass.

Going on, all smooth, both marked camps on the way up the second pass are actually closed...there’s an open camp right between the two.

Amazing places to camp up by Laguna Castillo.

We snuck around the riverbed once we saw the blue tent at the bottom (where you might have to pay) and got by with no problems.

* '''Jan 2020 GPT32 South 7days / Felix'''

Coyhaique to Villa Freí: There is a bus from the bus terminal in Coyhaique to Villa Freí. From there it was a hot dusty road.

Accessing the park : You have to pass through 4 private properties to enter the first sector of the park. We met some people. Had short friendly chats, but no problems with access. Just before you enter the park (where there are two trail options) there is easy access to the river via a cow trail. However water in general was no issue and I didn't carry water for the entire 7 days through the park.

The camp site used to be an official campsite before the sector was closed due to access problems. The dunny is in great shape.

Through the first sector : The trail is in great shape until after the mirador. You then cut upwards into the alpine which is also easy walking. After passing through a saddle, you contour around above the treeline. This is the most difficult part of the section. Quite a bit of step scree traversing. Not for everyone. Once you drop into the valley waking is again easier. There are some occasional cairns that become more and more frequent as you drop into the other valley. As you contour left an intermittent trail is evident. When you enter the lenga forest (-45.97321, -72.10278) there is a great trail down that turns into a road here : (-45.97886, -72.10358) (Jan: maybe you want to update the track files to reflect this?) Then is road walking to join the popular walk.

Popular sector of Cerró Castillo : There are some side trips not included in the track files. They're on the map you get. Note that the old Bosque site (-46.06197, -72.16016) and La Tetera (-46.07200, -72.18390) are now closed. You can not camp there. For most people this means camping at the new el Bosque : (-46.06418, -72.16964)(Jan : maybe you want to update the track files?) Get to Laguna Cerró Castillo before 12 to beat the walkers heading up for the day. But this shouldn't be an issue as you need to cross the pass early : an important thing we would have liked to know is that the pass (-46.08030, -72.21103) can be closed in the afternoon due to strong winds. There is literally a ranger there that can turn people around. Not much water over the pass either. And the poza cerca mirador doesn't look welcoming. Carry water here. In the next valley there were more rangers and we saw some people get checked for permits. It's a shame this park is now being comercialalised :(

Getting back to Coyhaique : Not much traffic. The last bus heads back at 6pm

I'll try upload some map photos and a breakdown of the entrance fees when I get the photos off my camera.

Cheers, Felix.

* '''2020-Jan-18 and 19 / Regular Hiking Southbound / Martin Lizondo'''

The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge. I met other day hikers going to « El Mirador ». Snow was easy at the passes. The trail was in good conditions until the cross country. There are two spots which I consider dangerous, so I don’t recomend doing this section alone: 1) the gps tracks passes through a very vertical rocky (nearly climbing). I was scared and I can’t recommend doing it, except you asume this risk. I could see later in a map that the original route went all way down in the valley through lenga forest, but if there was a trail it’s invisible now. 2) When the cross country leaves the tree line and becomes a small trail into the lenga forest at 45º 58' 23,54" S, 72º 6' 10,02" O (“minor road” starts later, despite the gps track info); it’s very stepy and unmaintained. I made a mistake and started to follow the stream all way down, but you have to look up and search the beginning of the hidden path. It’s very vertical and easy to fell down, because of recent land slides. Be extremely carefull. The rest of Cerro Castillo from Las Horquetas is well maintained, beautifull and enjoyable. Cons: Lots of people. When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu'''

No technical difficulties in the park, just following the trail and enjoying the views.

To follow the GPT northbound, leave the parc trail to go north. It is an "old sendero" in the forest, but well maintained and easy to follow during the beginning (it is marked on maps of the parc). In this direction, no problem to leave the forest in a safe spot, but southbound, looking behind, seemed hard to find the entrance of the forest and of the safe trail ! No technical difficulties until the first pass, rocky terrain like the rest of the park.

The dangerous part is indeed between the 2 passes. You dont go in the valley in front of you but follow the altitude line until the pass that you see at the right side of the valley. Very steepy rolling stones path. I was a little bit afraid. I tried to be smarter than the tracks, trying more uphill... this was a dangerous mistake that took me long to repair and go back to the tracks. There are indeed two river crossing (no dangerous waterstream) but they are circled by cliffs, so not easily crossable.
The track follow mostly the tree line (I.e the separations between the little trees and the stones) So my recommendations :
- follow the gps tracks : they follow the tree line who is safer with a solid ground and grass. Sometimes you have to cross the stones, no choice, so go slowly, choose your paces wisely and it's doable. Try to aim for the grounds of grass in the middle, which are solid, or the stones with foam on them, which mostly didn't move for a while. For the rivercrossing, it aims a good spot with no need to climb down or up.
- choose a good weather day : for me it was sunny and no wind, so perfect day, and it was already mentally hard (not speaking of the horseflies getting you crazy during the hard moments !). I wouldn't try it with rain or big wind in this river of rolling stones.
- if you don't feel it, easy escape by the normal trail of the parc

However, I can assure that the prize for the effort, going northbound, is amazing !! But I won't spoil !
After the second pass, no technical difficulties, you find a Conaf trail easily, and I even cross some tourists with a guide.

* '''2019-Nov-29/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 3days / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route with OH-MR-V (Villa Cerro Castillo to Las Horquetas)'''

The section follows the rather popular tourist Hiking route Las Horquetas for the first two days, meaning there will be less solitude but also rather well maintained trails. The national park and the region around Cerro Castillo was very impressive, we especially enjoyed to take all the side trails and visit the numerous beautiful glacier lagoons. The only unpleasant part of the hike was the organization of the national park. The exorbitant high entrance fees are in no relation to the other parks, which is due to a high ratio of private land in the area but makes the park rather unattractive for tourists. some rangers seemed poorly informed and couldn't give much information (e.g. insisted that passes were "closed" and only after asking numerous times agreed to check with his colleagues that told that they are "open"). They also said it is not possible to hike the regular route of the GPT, because we have to check out of the NP at the checkpoint Las Horquetas. There is an optional hiking route continuing North from there. Due to bad weather coming up we ended up not finishing the northern stretch of the trail and just followed the entire Las Horquetas Route at the Carretera Austral.

* '''2019-Nov-29 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

Snow line is at around 1200 Meters but all passes are safely traversable.
The National Park Entrance Fee got raised to 29000 CLP per person for overnight hikes in season 19/20. The park generally seemed very poorly organized, we were told the passes are "closed" at first, whereas they were easy and safe to traverse. The ranger insisted that we could not hike the normal route northbound but have to sign out of the park at the Las Horquetas checkpoint. In high season, the ranger station in the park is manned, so maybe it is possible so sign out there and head northbound.

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Eva Havlová'''

There is still lots of snow in the National Park. I arrived to Villa Cerro Castillo 3 days ago (Novembre 12, 2019) and planed to hike nortbound but rangers didn't let me go. I saw the pass they were talking about (avalanche risk) and I don't think any avalanche could occur, but the thought is that there is lots of water running down and the trail is like a stream. They said it might be possible to do it next week.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019 Jan/ Oilrik / Northbound'''

We ended up doing the normal Cerro Castillo hike as the weather was forecasting heavy rain and snow so we did not want to be on the pass. The regular trail is just gorgeous and the park is beautiful. The trail in the north is not on the new CONAF maps but is marked on the old ones.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:'''

A sandy beach with a visible structure in the grass is the take-out for Lago Elizalde. After exiting, make your way through the farmland until encountering a gravel road that leads past the house at the top of the hill up to Ruta X-686.

Ruta X-686 is a lightly trafficked but well-formed gravel road that is fenced on either side. After crossing the Río Paloma, Ruta X-686 makes a sharp left and begins to climb. 4 km after the sharp left turn, cross a bridge to the left and climb to a wooden gate. If you descend the steep slope to the left of the gate, there is camping under some trees.

The wooden gate marks the beginning of a very long driveway to a house located near the lake. The route takes you along this driveway until a river crossing. After crossing the river, walk northeast along its shore towards the Río Paloma. After reaching the end of the fenceline near the Río Paloma, turn east and walk along the fenceline until reaching Lago Desierto. At the river outlet, there is a nice beach to put in to Lago Desierto.

There is no camping along the shores of Lago Desierto. The take-out is a rocky beach at the base of a bluff. Walk up the bluff and cross country through the farmland to Lago Azul. At the east end of the farm, descend down a road to a rocky beach at the Lago Azul shoreline with a metal structure.

There are a couple of potential camping options along the shoreline of Lago Azul. There are also several residences on the north shore. The take-out is a long rocky beach set before a well manicured forest. On the east end of the land near Lago La Paloma is an expensive looking house surrounded by several other buildings.

There is a 4WD track to the west of the smaller red house located south of the big residence. Ascend the steep climb on a well-formed road that is criss-crossed with several smaller tracks labeled in english with wooden signs. Due to the steep slopes on either side of the cut out road, there is no camping here.

Eventually, the route turns off of the road onto an overgrown 4WD track. Camping off the track is still difficult because of prickly vegetation and steep terrain. This track ends 2.5 km from where the Regular Packrafting Route joins the Regular Hiking Route. From here, the route involves some bushwhacking and following a small trail as it winds in and out of existence. Just before joining with the Regular Hiking Route, the route widens into an old 4WD track that passes some destroyed structures.

The routes join up at a large rock cairn and continues to follow a 4WD track until reaching a large wooden sign with a map of the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. Here there is also a campsite and ranger station. There is a 5.000 CLP fee to enter the reserve.

The route from here is a popular track for backpackers with designated campsites. The trail is well-formed and winds through the forest. When the trail becomes less obvious, the way is shown with yellow markers. In this area there is a designated campsite with a latrine.

At treeline, follow the cairns and rocks painted with white and red stripes through the scree up and over the first pass (approximate elevation 1.450 m). After the steep descent, reenter the trees. There is a campsite, Camping El Bosque, soon after reaching treeline (approximately elevation 940 m) with water and a latrine.

The trail begins to wind up through the forest toward Laguna Castillo. The sights from Laguna Castillo, which is at the base of the pass, are stunning. There are two tracks that climb up to the pass. Make sure to take the path that climbs to the south instead of continuing southeast over the obvious saddle.

The track down to Ruta X-720 is well formed, marked, and popular, but occasionally braided. Follow it until reaching the wooden stile with a rangers hut. From there join Ruta X-720, a dirt road which leads to Highway 7 and Villa Cerro Castillo.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Dec / Michael and Kasia
We stayed at Hospedaje Gemita on Ramón Freire next door to Camping Castillo, 20.000 pp for room in a shared cabaña. The cabaña had 4 rooms (2 doubles, 2 singles), a well equipped kitchen, hot shower. Not allowed to do laundry in the Hospedaje, but there is a lavaderia in town. The hosts, Gemita and Pedro, are very nice. They have also spent a lot of time in Los Avellanos on horseback. Maria, one of the settlers in the valley in Avellanos is a cousin of Pedro.

We found gas in four shops, two had the threaded canisters for stoves, one was 6.000 for a 300 ml tank, the other was the COPEC across the highway from town, 4.000 a tank. The others just had refills, cheapest was the supermercado on the highway, 2.700 for a refill canister.

There is a Banco de Santander ATM in the COPEC on the west side of the highway.

Just on the other side of the highway on the road to the park there is a fruit and vegetable shop that also sells frutos secos and nuts in bulk. He had the best prices.

*2024-Mar /Joscha

Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.

*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=
*2024-Dec Buses Sao Paolo passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique every day around noon, 8.000 pp; Buses ECA passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique Thursdays and Mondays songs 11:30, 8.000 pp.
*Buses to Villa Frei from Coyhaique bus terminal: Monday 7:30, 8:15, 15:30, 17:00, 19:30 Tuesday to Friday 8:15, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30 Saturday 08:00 and 14:00. No bus on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Villa Frei & the bus generally turns around immediately & goes back to Coyhaique.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023/ Martin & Helena
To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side.

*2023/ Jakub+Veronika:
1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets.

*2020 / Martin Lizondo
The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge.
(...)
When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT32 - Cerro Castillo]]

=Images=

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2026-09-09T21:35:23Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT 32 | 1/26-1/28 | 2.1 Days | SOBO | RR | Graham + Gabe '''

Nice chill section. Beautiful.
Started from Las Horquetas at Noon.
Bus from Coyhaique at 8am and 4pm, we took uber for 35k.
They want you to do it in 3 nights, but it is easy and they charge per night.
First Pass is quite chill, not much snow. Beautiful Glacier Waterfalls on descent.
Camped 1km before La bosque campground.
2nd day we tried to get early start before wind. Arrived at pass at 11am, but it was too late.
Ended up descending from pass in horrible wind, some gusts up to 70/80kmh. Quite scary, but we worked slowly and carefully.
Tried to pass Park Ranger early next morning to avoid paying, but did anyway.
Nice section, lots of people though.

''' GPT32/2026-02-12 to 2026-02-14/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''

Traverse from 28-30 km took some time, it isn’t extremely sketchy, but we had to be careful, in bad weather could be bad idea. Wet grass or buddy terrain would make it much harder.
From camp El bosque we went for sunrise to Mirador de Cerro Castillo, so we were there alone, but camps were pretty crowded.

In National Park probably hikers should book tickets in the advance, to limit number of tourist on trail and in Camps. We didn’t know about that, but no one checked on that. When we followed the RR all the way we didn’t go through any official entry or exit to National Park so we didn’t pay any fees.

Camps:
1. S 45.910617° W 72.058600° big meadow with water.
2. Camping El Bosque in NP

No water issues at whole section.

Resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo we did in Minimarket Villarica, they have gas as well. It was closed but we called them and begged to open for us.

* '''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-17 / 6 Days / Packrafting + Hiking / SOBO / RP + 09 + M + RR + E + RR + Castillo glacier + RR + 10 / Antoine B'''

One of my favourite sections and... no one around this time!

Day 3 (I started with 31P)

From the shore of lago Elizalde, it was tricky to find a way through the fences, so I crossed the river and reached the main road where I hiked for about 2 hours (barely any traffic going south). I finally got picked up by a French Guide who drove me to the crossing right after Rio Paloma bridge (looks gorgeous). I finished walking down to the private property where I had a discrete camp by the river trees.

Day 4

When entering the lake at 9am, I met a friendly keeper who let me embark on Lago Desierto (beautiful, some OK waves). Saw no one at the next shore. Another 2h beautiful lake crossing, where waves got bigger and chaotic by the end, especially close to the cliffs. After landing, I saw a keeper and asked for the right of way. He asked the manager who denied access through the property to the MTB trails climbing in the mountains. Puzzled about how I got there (the whole valley is the property of a rich US owner who hires 20 people all-year long). He gave me a boat ride across Lago Paloma, then a car ride uphill to catch up variant M, in front of the gate (with cake and coffee extras). Turned out quite well in the end. There is a sign that the trail is closed or not maintained anymore but it is still in good condition (nice forest walk, fantastic lookout). Camp at the start of the ridge section.

Day 5

Bad weather eventually arrived and I slept in until 12. At 2.30pm, when the rain stopped, I explored a potential alpine route following the ridge and slaloming the peaks.
Awesome views but this looked more like mountaineering in steep/scree terrain, and with hail/strong winds starting I decided to go down to connect back with the track, at the difficult waterfall. It was a slow descent in unstable terrain but I liked the offpist experience. The whole area reminded me of Lappland somehow. The descriptions to climb the grassy slope by the waterfall and go by the forest to avoid climbing were useful. The grassy slope is actually better than it looks but I was careful with the wet ground and the 25kg backpack. The valley was beautiful but windy so I continued to the other side and camped in the forest in a tiny clearing on the path.

Day 6

Finally some sun among clouds in the morning. Generally easy walking to connect with the main trail. Went running (bag-free!) on Variant E up to the glacier. If you like climbing rocks, the view gets even better at the end. I still haven't met anyone. Back to RR, climbing to the pass where barely any snow was left (dozens meters on the other side, actually nice to walk on, with huemul footprints). The views after the pass were rewarding, among light rain and wind. The well defined trail through the forest is so enjoyable, what a contrast to many GPT sections! I arrived around 5pm at the Bosque camping and met... no one. What a different experience, I can't complain about the crowds! Hiking during the week with rainy/windy (wouldn't call it stormy) weather is probably the answer for loneliness. At 7pm I went across the forest towards the moraine (a few min walk) and then walked to the Laguna. Pretty nice view, despite cloudy summits and the fierce wind & rain cocktail in my face. Hanged my food in the rainy night, although I haven't seen any mice (only cute colourful birds coming by).

Day 7
An enjoyable long night/morning under singing rain. After the rain stopped, I left at ~4pm and hiked up to the informal campsites right before the lake. I was planning to go all the way to Camping Neozelandés but watching the Cerro Castillo glaciers I could not resist having a closer look up there. I left my backpack and climbed NW through the boulder field, all the way up to the pass/plateau (-46.07005, -72.19438). Demanding short hike (1km, 400-500m) but the rocky terrain was actually holding well (no scrambling). Incredible views up there on both sides, and the glacier right below Cerro Castillo. I climbed a bit higher up (-46.06911, -72.19559) and spent 2h admiring the mountains with dancing clouds and the sun finally shining. I saw 2-3 spots that could host mountaineering campsite sites (granted you have a good weather window for the night and morning). Camped at (-46.07268, -72.18411), just along the path but protected from the wind.

Day 8
What a SURPRISE at sunrise! It snowed about 5cm overnight, the landscape is stunning and I'm having a blast climbing to the pass in the morning light and swirls of snow. The atmosphere is so incredible I stopped 1hr to contemplate it. The snow melted within a few hours and on the way down to the park exit, I finally met my first humans for the last 4days. I followed the river to exit the park, crossed the road until I could inflate the packraft. Still tight water levels, I touched the ground several times. But I made it to Rio Ibáñez. I was super fast! I topped 10km/h (6km/h river flow + big tailwinds)? Exited as indicated on track files and walked to town, staying at Nordic Patagonia, 10k CLP per person. Garden camping. Friendly, hit showers, WiFi. But street noises and lights are quite annoying after being in the nature...

Why was there no one in Cerro Castillo? Mystery solved: the park was closed up to the last day because of the stormy weather (got lucky!).

I was planning 2 nights in Villa Cerro Castillo and but eventually stayed 10+ days after meeting a friendly climbers who invited me to join. There are awesome equipped climbing sites next to town, with lovely/cheap camping at the bottom of the cliffs (e.g. Chabela). Not to mention the fiesta costumbrista & local parties - good Chilean friends met there.

* '''2026-01-10 to 2026-01-12 / 3 Days / Hiking / SOBO / 02 + RR + E + F / Michel & Lisa'''

'''Note''': Option E is no longer passable since the land owner doesn't allow people to go through the land. If you want to go down from the ridge to the valley you'll have to use the now official trail that goes further west (visible on OSM maps).

Day 1

We took one of the 8:00 buses from Coyhaique towards Villa Cerro Castillo from the bus terminal and were dropped off at Las Horquetas at about 9:30. Had breakfast, lost a nice titanium spork in the process and started hiking at 10:00. The beginning is all MR but quite nice. There were quite a few river crossings after the first few km, depending on your preferences you might opt to hike in your water shoes if you carry any (we chose not to but in hindsight it may have been less rhythm-breaking to do so). Anyhow, the path is very clear and at some point develops into more of a trail. Plenty of water along the way, no need to carry much. At least at this time of year. We hiked to the first camping Río Turbio ([-46.00821, -72.10414]) which had quite a few tents but didn't feel crowded. Mice could be seen running around, we hung all our food just to be sure. We did the hike to the Lagoon (Glaciar Peñon; Option E), which took 45 min to get to the lagoon (we didn't go further and hiked quite fast). Very pretty up there, worth the extra trip if you have the time/energy.

Day 2

Started hiking at 9:00, starting through the forest and up the pass where there was luckily hardly any wind but still some hard snowfields. We took a break shortly after the pass but in hindsight should've continued to about here: [-46.04032, -72.13635] because there you get a great view over the valley beneath.
We continued to the next camping El Bosque. It's very sheltered but also kinda dark here, even though the river is close. Traces of mice here too, which is unfortunate but as expected; we hung all our food again). Thanks to the people who suggested to hike to the end of the camp (coming from the east). It's a great tip if you prefer some privacy, since most hikers just stop at the sight of the first campsites. But if you continue 100 m after the start of the campsite (coming from the east) you'll get to a smaller second section where you'll be more to yourself. We hiked to the small lagoon (trail indicated on OSM) which is well worth the trip. Only about 20 min hiking and it's amazing up there - great views of the remnants of the glacier, the mountains and the lagoon. We even went for a swim (yes, brrrr, but we brought food and our stove to make tea afterwards B⁠-⁠) ). We agree that this could/should be a GPT option, but of course people will find it on the OSM maps anyways.

Day 3

We started at 9:30 and got up to the viewpoint of Cerro Castillo quite soon though we took many breaks to take pictures - including some of baby geese (what are they doing up there?? Haha). The views from up there are great, making up for the fact that you have to share your space with day hikers who come from the village.
Then came the long, crowded, dusty descent. The ground is composed of very fine dust in many places that is stirred by everyone who walks on it and dispersed by the wind. Afterwards, I could pour it out of my shoes. Get ready to clean your stuff. ;-) We wanted to take Variant F to descend to the village which is much faster than the official route which goes further west (which means you have to backtrack on the MR down in the valley - not a good deal we thought). However, there is a little wall of stones blocking it, indicating that this trail is no longer used. We told each other that we didn't see it and continued on the trail. It is very easy to follow and in the upper parts also very sandy. Lots of feline footprints on the path, a puma maybe?
At some point further down in the valley there were some laminated sheets of paper announcing that this was not an official trail to enter PN Cerro Castillo and that anyone using it would be turned around in 5 km at some station. However, we hadn't encountered anyone on the trail, though we did see something that looked like a puesto no longer used. We continued on the trail and found the way out through a private property that had some "no trespassing" signs and we had to climb a locked gate. It seems someone was tired of all the foot traffic through their private land or something. So we think options F and G should be deleted from the GPT tracks since they seemingly cross private land where the land owners don't want people to go. A new option should follow the official trail (visible on OSM) that turns south here: [-46.08724, -72.17281].

'''2026-01-08 to 2026-01-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + RR + F / Chris & Lotte'''

Pretty route, a bit touristic. Hoards of mice. Currently visibly dryer than usual.

Day 1: took a bus from Opec station (buses lucas) at 7:45 to ibanez and exited at las horquettas. followed the official Las Horquetas trail. Campsites look nice, full of mice. We camped at shortly before Laguna Glaciar Penon. No mice presence visible in this rocky terrain. Water is plenty.

Day 2: Continued back to and along RR. Water plenty. Shortly before Camp 50.5 we drank some water. Lotte seemingly got food poisoning... shortly after she vomited and was dizzy. We set up camp in 50.5, next day all good.
The stream we took from didnt look bad, in hindsight we'd still choose to drink from it, there were no obvious no-no's we ignored. My stomach was fine. Use this info for your personal decision.
Very pretty view and nicely sheltered from the wind.

Day3: chose easier Variant F to not have to hitchhike to cerro castillo. Not as mice-y day, but quite touristy. This seems to partially be flooded by day tourists. Although the variant leaves that into a deserted trail, leading through private property and skipping the toll.
ATM in cerro castillo is out if order.
ATM in Balmaceda (suprisingly good rate) works. No gas in Balmaceda though!

Mice: they are frequently present. Last week was a confirmed case of hunter virus in the region Cerro Castillo, five in the "bigger region".
We saw at least five dead mice on the trail. Precautions should be taken seriously.

'''2026-01-05 to 2026-01-07/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, Variant E/ RR/ Option 3/ RR/ Greg Carter'''

Only a few things to add to Dave and Siyuan’s log of their trip on 21-25 December 2025.

Overall
The mountains were stunning, worth paying the price of admission (CLP 35,000), and putting up with mice, tourists, tábanos.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1
I started from Villa Cerro Castillo (Nordic Patagonia has a nice campground, cost CLP 10,000 pp: -46.12121, -72.15896), and took a local bus to Las Horquetas for CLP 8,000. There was an unmanned Ranger station with a book for voluntary registration, which I completed. I was going to camp at Rio Turbio/ Segundo camping, but I arrived early afternoon and the tábanos were oppressive, so I kept hiking.

(Generally in the forest, throughout the hike the tábanos were bad, so I recommend you bring a headnet, and be prepared to swat/ kill a lot of them.)

I hiked up Variant E, to Laguna Glacier Peñon, which was very picturesque and well worthwhile. There are also some good camping spots up there.

In the late afternoon, as the weather was good I went over the pass, which had some snow fields on the top (I walked on them with no micro-spikes required). There are wonderful views to the east, and the western side of the pass (which is steep with some fixed ropes), has beautiful views of numerous waterfalls coming off the mountain.

I camped before Camping El Bosque, at Camp {32} [48.0/939], which has some good, slightly sloping sites.

Day 2
Upon reaching Camping El Bosque I took the side trail west (OSM), up to the laguna/ glacier viewpoint, which was well worthwhile.I recommend that this become a new variant.

Before going up I stashed my backpack off the trail. On returning I found that mice had eaten through the mesh of a side pocket to try to get into a plastic jar of peanut butter. A big reminder to hang all food around GPT32!

Upon leaving Camping El Bosque there is a CONAF sign stating that you should cross Morro Negro before 12pm, due to it being an exposed rocky ridge, with strong wind gusts usually hitting after this time. If the conditions are not optimal CONAF states that you must descend via the Mirador Laguna trail and re-enter via Estero Parada.

The views at the Mirador Cerro Castillo were really stunning in perfect weather.

I continued over Morro Negro with little wind, and camped at Camping Neozelandés. The trail to this camp from Camping Porteadores has an easy gradient. Also there is more and better camping, and much nicer views in close proximity to the mountains. Plus it positions you well to hike to Laguna Duff the next day.

Day 3
I hiked up to Laguna Duff for the sunrise - the views were incredible, with a mirror reflection of the mountains.

I then hiked out, paid CLP 35,000 at the Ranger station, and was required to complete an electronic declaration that basically declared I was ok to hike what I had just hiked! Ridiculous bureaucracy. But at least CONAF provides free WiFi!

I got a lift back to Villa Cerro Castillo with some others in the back tray of a taxi cab (CLP 5,000). I’m glad I didn’t walk - it’s a very stony and boring road.

* '''2026-01-06 to 2026-01-07 / 2 days / Packrafting / EABO / RP + Option 09 / Daniel.s'''

A little packrafting on lagos Desierto, Azul and Paloma to make use of a low wind day.

Day 1: took the bus towards Lago Caro (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am, Sunday 3pm from bus terminal Coyhaique) and got off at the intersection (X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310]) and hiked to the put in for Lago Desierto. No mentionable difficulties. Crossed the lake with strong tailwind and very strong gusts. Take out was tricky, because the wind pushed me into the current of the river mouth. Hiked the portage to Lago Azul with inflated packraft. Wind on Lago Azul was even stronger, so I stayed put. Found a sort of windsheltered spot near the put in (half collapsed boat hut). During the evening the wind changed direction 180° for about one hour - very strange.

Day 2: Crossed Lago Azul in calm conditions, short upriver paddling against low speed current to get to Lago Paloma. Against expectations and wind forecast is had light headwind for the crossing, otherwise no difficulties. All the campsites in the track files seem very nice, too bad the wind stopped me early. Take out of Lago Paloma is a popular beach, got a lift right away.

'''2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + D + RR + E + 3 / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 1: We got the 08:00 Cochrane bus on Sunday from Coyhaique, and arrived at the option 2 trailhead Las Horquetas at about 09:30. The trail was mostly wide enough to walk two abreast, and very well maintained. Three river crossings required getting wet feet but nothing above mid calf level. We camped after 15km at the Segundo Camping -46.00816, -72.10431. Epic views of the mountains for the last 1km.

Day 2: The trail was a little more rugged today, but always easily followed and signposted where not. We took option E before the pass, which was well worth it. The pass had snow (about the top 30 minutes of hiking) which was compacted and easy to walk on without post holing. We camped at Camping El Bosque -46.06418, -72.16919 which was a very nice spot. The side trek just north of the camp is much recommended with epic views and only a 20 minute hike from camp.

Day 3: Tough climb up to the pass on steep loose rock. When you pass the lake, make sure you follow the left hand trail via -46.07673, -72.18537. We stayed on the right hand trail closer to the lake and ended up climbing up very steep scree to rejoin later. The pass was very windy when we crossed, but didn’t have any particularly treacherous falls if you were blown over, so we felt comfortable with ~60km/h gusts. We left camp at 09:30 and reached the pass at about midday, which was later than ideal. The route was well signposted with yellow markers. The down climb was steep but had fixed ropes in the most dangerous parts. As soon as we reached the tree line the wind subsided. We camped at the excellent Area Camping Porteadores -46.08874, -72.23553 with flush toilets and running water.

Day 4: We hiked Option 3 to Laguna Duff. We planned to leave the tent at Camping Neozelandés and camp there, but we made such good time that we continued all the way back to the lake and back to Area Camping Porteadores in 4.5 hours. Below the treeline there is a perfect single track trail. Once you’re in the alpine area the trail is much like the pass yesterday with moraine rocks, but not as steep. Laguna Duff is spectacular!

Day 6: Simple walk down from the camp site to the dirt road to town. We were charged $35k CLP per person on exit from the park at the rangers station (-46.11819, -72.21799). We hitched a lift on the dirt road back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

*'''2025-12-18 to 2025-12-20/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Opt 2+RR + Opt 3 + RR/Tomas Martinec'''

I did the option starting in Las Horquetas. Officially, the trek is recommended to be done in 4 days, but I don't think it is a big problem to complete it in 3 days if the weather cooperates.

Generally: There are a lot of mice everywhere. I always hunged my food and luckily hadn't any issue.

Day 1
I started in Las Horquetas and finished at the camp El Bosque, combining the first two recommended sections into one day.

First section until Rio Turbio is a comfortable walk overall. There are many river crossings, but all were below knee level.

Second section from Rio Turbio to El Bosque, this includes a climb to the pass. The second part of this ascent is open, rocky terrain. I ocasionally lost the trail, but it is generally quite well marked. At the top of the pass, there was still snow, so I had to cross the snowy terrain for about 15 mins.

Day 2

I slept at El Bosque and hiked directly to the lagoon and Cerro Castillo. As before, the climb and pass are mostly open rocky terrain.

For my second night, I continued to Camp Neozelandes, which has fewer people than Los Porteadores and it is closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 3
I hiked to Laguna Duff - another beautiful spot - and then descended back to Caseta Estero Patada.I paid 35 000 CLP for 3 days (the same price as for 4 days). From Caseta Estero Patada, there is about a 5km walk to Villa Cerro Castillo or you can hitchhike as there are enough cars passing by.

Generally, it is a nice trek with beautiful highlight spots. At the same time, it feels quite regulated compared to more remote hikes, which may or may not suit everyone.

'''2025-Dec-8 to 2025-Dec-11 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt2, D, RR, E, 3 / Emily & Kole'''

Beautiful route through forest and glacial valleys. More crowded with hikers but trails and campsites weren’t overrun. Trail well maintained, easy walking. We took 3N/4D to maximise a good weather window, but RR plus Variant 2 (Los Horquetas trail) could easily be condensed to 1N/2D. Attractiveness 4/5, difficulty 2/5 (w/ Opt2).

Day 1
* Caught the Cochrane to Coyhaique bus to the Los Horquetas trailhead. Started Variant 2 at 1.30pm.
* Spoke with ranger at -45.97772, -71.96298 who gave an overview of the hike. You can buy your park pass online or pay upon departure.
* Trail is very easy walking. A couple of fords, though all below the knee (165cm) and not strong.
* Camped at Rio Turbio (-46.00849, -72.10397). Perhaps 10 other hikers there but a large campground, plenty of space. Well sheltered, picnic tables. Mice everywhere! We hung our food.

Day 2
* Took option E to see laguna glacier peñón - easy detour with good views, would recommend.
* Some snow at the top of Paso Penon, but mostly hard; no spikes needed.
* Gravel/dirt quite loose in places on the descent from the pass, but easy to navigate when sticking to trail. Some ropes to assist descent if needed.
* Camped at El Bosque (-46.06415, -72.16944) for a short day, no visible mice but hung out food.
* Took the OSM north of camp to Laguna/Glacier (not in Gpx files). Short and easy climb following cairns. Better views and laguna than Opt-N, highly recommend.

Day 3
* After crossing the outlet of Laguna Castillo/at the weather station, start making your way upwards. Can start to ascend at any point, however following these markers puts you on a clearer trail.
* Winds are very strong at the pass plateau and when descending. Descent itself isn’t difficult, but can be more time-consuming with wind gusts.
* Took Option 3 to Laguna Duff. Easy climb, beautiful views of Laguna. Ranger informed us Camp neozelandés {32-03} [3.6/1156] is more exposed, but it’s still in the forest/a good sheltered option.
* We camped at Portedaores {32} [56.6/890]. Em fell asleep with her food and awoke to a tennis-ball hole chewed through her tent. Hang your food!

Day 4
* Had to sign a declaration/emergency contact form upon leaving park at rangers station. Paid 35.000CLP pp for 3+ days in park (honour system).
* Stayed at Turismo Al Galope, 10.000clp for camping. Nice indoor space with wifi, but BYO toilet paper, soap, and gas for cooking.

*2025-Dec-05 to 2025-Dec-11 / 7(6) Days / Hiking / SOBO RR,OPT 01,02,D,RR / Massa and Jacicek

Day 1

Started in Villa Frei, we took Uber for 18k CLP, as we missed the bus from Coyhaique. The driver didn’t believe at first where we want to drop off. Went in the direction of Lago La Paloma, the route was quite busy (it was Friday) and multiple people offered us a lift. We considered taking OH 32-05, however on the gate there is prohibition sign and multiple cars were going to and from the property. We decided to take 32-N and camp early (on the right just after the first gate on 32-N (gate open).

Day 2

Climb up was ok, trail is recognizable, we needed to climb through 3 fences (other had gates open or were broken down). We met a black cow with calf at the old farm. Then we took OH 32-01. The trail runs through beautiful forests and we found several trees with Quiñoto mushrooms (nice smell, but seemed over mature). Then approximately after the km 5.6 (or as Julien writes km 6) the trail mostly disappears. There are fallen trees everywhere and new young trees just high enough to obscure the path. This took us whole afternoon and was very demanding. We finally reached the Rio Blanco and camped there.

Day 3

Rest day – hiked few km, forced Rio Blanco and camped once again alongside it ca 2km before Las Horquetas (in the few trees downhill from the old barn).

Day 4

Forded Rio Blanco again near the parking at Las Horquetas entry. The trail is open. Guards recommended to make the trip in 4 days. According to their information the 32F is closed, but 32G appears to be open. The ranger hut at 32D was unmanned. We reached Camp Rio Turbio and stayed there.

Day 5

Climbed up to paso Peñon, which still had snow. The descend from paso is crowned by many waterfalls from melting ice. We stayed at El Bosque Campsite and made a walk to the viewpoint over the campsite. In the hindsight I would recommend to continue and stay at the closed Campsite just before Laguna Castillo If you are continuing to Morro Negro as you will start nearer the summit.

Day 6

On leaving the campsite we noticed small note from the park guards to pass Morro Negro before 12pm due to wind. We had reached the summit at ca 12.30 in strong wind. The descend from it is steep scree and in direct wind, take caution here. We camped at Porteadores.

Day 7

Went from Porteadores to Villa Cerro Castillo, payed 35 000 CLP pp for the park. Local worker offered us a lift for part of the final trip which we accepted.

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-24 to 2025-Mar-26/ 2.5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO RR, OH 2, OH3/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

On the 23th we arrived from GPT 33 in Villa Cerro Castillo. After resupplying we went to Las Horquetas by hitchhiking. We were lucky on that section to have a perfect wheather window: sunny, warm and with no wind. With wind the two main passes can be challenging. The second one is "forbiden" under strong wind (signs on the path). Overall that section us easy going as it is the well maintained ( and crowdy) las horquetas trail. There are a lot of signs on the trail, especially on alpine terrain. You don t need to check GPS However it is really scenic and there are some more alpine parts that we enjoyed a lot. Mojo negro is a must with the view on Cerro Castillo above the glacier and the view on the plain under us, on the Tores de Avellano, the tip of Campo Hielo Norte...

Camp1: camp el bosque ( OSM): lot of spots with tables, WC. No view and crowdy. It s better to continue higher, even to laguna cerro castillo.

Camp2: camp el neozélandes. Same but far less crowdy for us. There are spots just after the camp or at laguna duff ( but cold!)

Day1: First part is really easy going but not borring at all on MR. Then it goes up to the pass. Even at the end of the season we walked on snow patches at the pass. The descent is slightly more technical ( but there are tons of ropes if you feel uncomfortable).

Day2: We started by going to the lack above the camp (no name). 1h up and back. Then we followed RR. Lago cerro castillo and mojo negro are just magnificent. OH 3 to laguna duff was also nice and easy. We were there for sunset so without the crowd.

Day3: Back to Villa Cerro Castillo. The MR is a bit borring but not so long. We did not manage to catch a lift. We took a bus around 1 pm( Don Carlos) to go to Coyhaique.

* '''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-08 / 5 days / Packrafting and hiking/ NOBO / Option 6 / Tomáš&Natalie'''

Not important prelude: We were not going to do this. Several continuous days of rain were forecasted. We meant to take a ferry north from Puerto Chacabuco. However, there were protests and the road to Puerto Aysén was closed on Monday and the buses were cancelled. The first bus of the day at 13:45 only went a few km before Puerto Aysén, where the prostest were. We were supposed to walk through them and board another bus. Locals said that the ferry always leaves later than the schedulet 15:00 and we should make it. But when we reached the protests, somebody called the port and the ship sailed on time. Given we also left our tent poles in Cochrane and were arranging for them to be sent to Coyahaique by bus (thanks Thijmen!!) and then by post (from Coyhaique to Santiago) and that the forecast was improving somewhat, we took it as a sign to do this option which we have previously mulled, so we returned to Coyhaique instead of hunting the ferry by hitching to Puerto Cisnes, where it would be at 11PM. We cursed ourselves throughout when it was cold, rainy and flooded, but you only truly remember the good stuff later on, so now it feels good. We walked in drysuits 80 percent of the time. We would never want to hike in such rainy and windy cold weather without drysuits and drybags.

Overall, I think we are the first who have done this hike since it has been promoted from exploratory options. The GPS is correct. Hiking wise it is easy, possibly easier (less exposed, we had no issues doing it in the rain) than RR. Fords are much worse though, at least in rainy weather. Scenic-wise it is hard to compare, we had no views in the clouds. But I assume the RR is prettier. Here you will meet noone, if that is a huge bonus for you, this could be recommended. Or when denied entry on RR when going NOBO or if you have done RR previously. It is also obviously attractive for packrafters as it nicely connects to Rio Paloma/31P-01.

(The rapid under the bridge over Rio Ibanez at Cerro Castillo looked just like big waves (class III?) from the bridge, but do your own scouting, I saw it twice only for 5 seconds each, I just was surprised it did not look that bad.)

On Tuesday morning, we took a bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane and got out at Cerro Castillo, where we waited 4 hours for the bus from Cochrane that carried our poles. A gomeria here -46.12096, -72.16249 sharpened our machete very well and for free! When the poles arrived, we soon got a hitch to -46.13355, -72.41950. In the pouring rain and wind, we assembled the packraft and went 1 km down Rio Ibanez to option 10A. The river was flooded, all of the riverbed was under water. Luckily it was raining less then. Camped in the rain here: -46.11081, -72.40580. The cable car upstream is still there, no idea if it is functional though.

The trail up still exists, but it seems it had not been used this year, so it is not the fastest. Shortly after entering the forrest for the first time somewhere around -46.10651, -72.41083, there is a meadow with some bamboo where the other side of the trail is hard to find even with GPS, but it is there. The trail is good in the forrest, but in the open around -46.10263, -72.41470, it is somewhat overgrown, but not too bad, I did not use the machete. The option 06 is preferable to 06B. I think this is what "Mum, Sis and I" did. 06B is still a trail at least in its beginning and it was done by Jan and he did not seem to like the last BB climb (I talked to him). On our route, I would say the BB&CC should be more CC&BB&TL. First part is easy if steep descent in open terrain. Around here -46.09437, -72.42397, there was a trailhead. I however lost (not hitting "save" on new waypoints is a plague!) the exact coordinates, so look for it. The trail is maybe an animal trail and is steep, but it leads you down to a stream. Cross the stream here: -46.09371, -72.42521, where the animal (?) trail continues. Then keep to the ridge until you exit the forest. The forest is indeed quite open (the more the higher you are) and sometimes there is something that looks like a trail. Good camps with access to water would be -46.09088, -72.43224 and at the end of the BB&CC (not the one indicated in the files). This part took us maybe 2 or 3 hours, but we were slow. Camp without water possible here too: -46.09290, -72.42823. It was starting to rain when we reached the open terrain, so we put on drysuits. The meadows did not seem to be grazed and water was kind of everywhere. The traverse is however easy and not exposed. Safety-wise, we felt good even in the rain and medium visibility. It was not windy but we got cold (took us some time to get warm in the tent). The forest before our campsite somewhere around -46.05323, -72.47485 is very open - count no time penalty for walking there.

We had a late morning as it was still raining. When it stopped, we put on drysuits and went down the meadow and then it started to rain again. The meadow is being grazed and marshy and I do not think it ever gets really dry. Sometimes it seemed there is a bit of a trail in the forest on the west side, but we mostly walked on the meadow. Puesto del Avion stands, is semidry and kind of dirty. The trail after the meadow is well used and clear and muddy. The river was roaring (looked kayakable from high up, it is continuous rapids at least up to clas IV, but we obviously did not see all of it) and we avoided the first four fords that are close to each other by staying on the left side. This is doable, it takes a bit of time but the forest is open, just stay close to water. The ford 10.6 (-45.99676, -72.37790) was a clear nogo and initially we also tried to stay on the right. It went for a bit, but it gets steeper and steeper and cliffier and cliffier. We camped up there and tried to go further the next day, but turned back one third of the distance to the next ford. Traversing seems bad, but possibly crosing a sidestream here -45.99541, -72.37794, reaching above tree line here: -45.98498, -72.37741 and then going down -45.97970, -72.36782 might work, but the way down would be steep and it would possibly take a whole day, so you might just as well wait for the water to go down. In 12 hourse of no rain during the nightu, the water went down by about 15 cm at a narrow spot.

Back at the ford, it was still too strong. However, about 100m upstream (somewhere around -45.99786, -72.37877), where the locals' makeshift camp is, one can cross the river kneedeep where it is wider. First go in the middle, then about 50 m downstream and the cross to the other side and then along the river to the trail. The trail then goes under cliffs, the whole upper valley is quite pretty. The next ford 8.2 was also strong. Without backpack, I managed to cross it but a much better whitewaterless spot is about 60 m upstream in front of a big rock. The river was still strong, Natalie struggled a bit with it even with my help. It was mid-thighs and pushy in the middle. Having lost a lot of time on the fords and attempted traverse, we camped at -45.95672, -72.35307, behind a new gate. The trail from there continues at least to -45.94945, -72.36639, where it fords the river (easy). I did not explore more, but I wonder if it joins option 8 at a clearing and buildings here: -45.93527, -72.42878, as the corresponding pass seems low and there do not seem to be any sensible other destinations in this valley. Somebody with more time and food should explore more - try to reserve at least half a day for it! There was also abandoned puesto here: -45.95000, -72.36480.

Ford 4.9 did not go down overnight, it was under our ùknees. Natalie forded a bit upstream where it is more pushy but boulders and stones give you more grip. I had no issues crossing at the proper ford, where the riverbad is exposed rock. It is not flat and not too slippery though. The rest of the valley is easy and finally it was a sunny day without drysuits! Bridge 30.4 on Option 5 was standing, so that still waits for its first log. It was a sunny Saturday and there were several cars (fisher and tourists) at Bridge 31, so hitching from there seems feasible. There was also some traffic on the less minor road to Lago Caro. We however went down on Rio Paloma on 31-01P.

*'''2025-FEB-26 to 2025-FEB-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short but very diverse section with a variety of terrain, picturesque forests, and stunning views. The memory of clambering up steep slopes in the northern part of the stage and then gazing at the imposing, dominating Cerro Castillo (2675 m above sea level) to the south is etched deeply in our minds. The section passes through Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, which means there is an entry fee and camping is only allowed at designated sites (see below).

Challenges:
Exposed terrain and clambering at kilometers 28.3-30.0. Caution and slow progress are necessary here. It is impassable in bad weather. There is nothing too complicated on BB + CC at kilometers 38.1-38.7; the forest is relatively clear and there is a narrow trail in some places.

Fees:
At the time of our passage, the entry fee for Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo was (for foreigners per person) 18,000 CLP for one day, 24,000 CLP for two days, and 28,000 CLP for three or more days in the park. We paid 24,000 CLP each upon exiting the park (X {32} [60.6/316]) since we spent one night outside the park.

Bivouacing:
Camping within Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo is, according to information from the gatekeepers, only allowed at officially designated campsites marked in OSM map sources:

1) Segundo camping (-46.00818, -72.10410)
2) Camping El Bosque (-46.06429, -72.16909)
3) Camping Los Porteadores. (-46.08888, -72.23543)

We only used the last mentioned site as we chose the fastest route through the national park.

These campsites have designated spots for tents, wooden seating, and dry toilets. They were quite crowded in the evenings. Other campsites found in OSM sources or track files are not official and thus illegal.

Water:
Water is not a problem; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
In Villa Frei, we bought supplies for 2.5 days in a small shop with basic groceries, and we had a little left over. In the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, there is a well-stocked shop called Janito, and a bit further along is a stylish food truck made from an old bus.

'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option E, Option 3, Option F / Tyson'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas (BusCarolina). Was full on a Sunday, but a friendly worker at the station said I should insist, so I ended up standing in the back for the hour and half ride.

Day 1: Guard at the station gave the usual advice to hit the passes early to avoid the afternoon wind. Easy to follow trail, very scenic. Some wet cow trails at one point, but just following the river, so easy. A few ankle deep crossings. Went up to Laguna Penon (called Laguna El Turbio on some maps) in the afternoon. The wind and rain started up on the way. Made it up there to momentarily enjoy a whitecapped laguna and pelting rain.

Day 2: Crossed Pass Penon by 10:30 or so. One could easily do Horquetas to Camp Bosque in a day, weather permitting. Made it to Bosque by late lunch so went up to Laguna Tempano / unnamed glacier viewpoint. Got a half hour of sun up there before the wind turned it to white caps again. NOTE: there are a handful of campsites about 20 meters past the first main grouping that you hit. Everyone stopped at the first ones, while those stayed empty

Day 3: Late start but made it to Cerro Castillo by 11:30. Covered in clouds so waited about an hour to see if they would clear but more kept rolling in and wind picked up so I went on. About half way down the other side I look back to absolutely clear skies. Made it to camp Neozelandes (I recommend it over Porteadores) by maybe 4:30, set up camp. Up to Laguna Duff by 6ish, plenty of time to enjoy the remaining sun up there. At camp Porteadores, saw a hiker I met on day 1 with a bandage on her face. Her group of four had skipped over camp Turbio, so had crossed Castillo the day before. She described the wind as lifting her and another hiker up and dropping them on the ground. They scooted the whole way down to Porteadores on their backsides. Other hiker ended up with stitches in her leg (shout out to Marnie for some good looking backcountry sutures)

Day 4: Utterly clear day, couldn’t stand the thought of not seeing Cerro Castillo so hiked back up. Much easier to see the cairns and markers on the way up. People were just lounging up there without clouds or wind. Went down Option F, which was full of day hikers making the most of the cloudless day. NOTE the last half of option F goes onto private land now closed to the public. The rangers and physical maps will tell you to go half way down Option F and then take another trail going southwest. This is all well-beaten and impossible to miss. I actually completely missed the fork. Downside is that the trail spits you out further from the Villa. So if you can’t get a hitch (like me) then you’ve got another 5K to walk to town. Got charged the 28K pesos for 3+ days at the end.

'''25-02-17- 25-02-19/ 2,5 days / SOBO / OH02-RR-Var. E -RR-OH3-RR / Volker'''

Scenic, easy, short - nice section. Water everywhere, all river crossings dry feet. A highway for gpt standards.
Day 1: Bus (Don Carlos) from Coyhaique to Cochrane at 8 a.m., got out at Las Horquetas. Some hikers, but not overcrowded. Variant E to Laguna Turbia and the glacier recommended. There are several camp spots on the way to the Laguna and close to it.
Day 2: Started early, nobody on the easy and pittoresque way up and down the first pass. Crowds between El Bosque and the mirador, many day hikers. The scrambling up and down the 2nd pass probably isn‘t fun on a rainy and misty day. Lots of hikers at the Porteadores and Neozelandes campings. Again several camp spots on the way to the Laguna Duff and close to it.
Day 3: Short walk to Laguna Duff, very nice in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Met them (many dayhikers) on the way down. If you prefer to donate 28k to a charity instead of a Chilean state body - turn right at the sign „1km“ and walk along the river to the MR. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo from the parking 1,5km after the junction

* ''' 2025-FEV-13 > 15 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : pierriers, bush-bashing

Les 15 premiers km sont à l'image du GPT31. La vue est sympa mais la gravel road est ennuyeuse. J'ai marché 6 km puis on m'a emmené au lac La Paloma. Vraiment magnifique et populaire. Ensuite j'ai repris ma rando en revenant au km 15,5. Il y a un ford dès la sortie de la gravel road. La montée se fait bien, quelques clôtures à franchir mais la plupart ont été cassées par des randonneurs pour faciliter le passage. Il y a un ford au km 23,2, puis j'ai campé au km 23,6. Je suis allé au point de vue de la 32-C, ça vaut le détours. Il y a pas mal de cairns sur le sentier et on voit qu'il était très fréquenté par le passé. Mais ce n'est plus le cas et certains passages sont difficile. D'ailleurs le point le plus difficile est mal placé sur la trace GPS, la partie escalade se trouve au point 45.938328° S 72.086493° W. Au km 34, après le petit torrent, le sentier est envahi et j'ai beaucoup utilisé ma machette. J'ai perdu une guêtre dans la bataille. Après le km 35 le sentier est plutot dégagé. Au km 39 on rejoins les sentiers du parc et ils sont plutôt bien entretenus et très utilisés. Attention les camps aux km 48 et 50,5 sont fermés temporairement et deplacés au km 49. En passant devant le péage à la sortie du parc, j'ai dit que je venais de Lago La Paloma et ils m'ont laissé passer. J'ai essayé le stop sur les 6 km de gravel road mais sans succès.

'''2025-02-16 to 2025-02-19 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / optie 2, RR, option E, 3, nameless laguna / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* Hitchhiking to las Horquitsas took longer than expected (4 hours)
* I arrived at 15.30 and I was still allowed to enter. But you have to register otherwise the guard will run behind you (happened to me).
* At least 3 fjords on option 2 so sandals or something would be nice. I decided to get my trail runners wet but regretted it next cold morning putting on wet cold shoes and socks.
* The side trip to the lagunas are very beautiful go there! (leave your backpack down,)
* If you walk long days it's not busy in the park all the people gather at the camping sites and stop hiking at 15.00.
* Water: Easy everywhere except from Laguna Castillo to camp las porteadores has no water (3 hours walk).
* Camping: at official sites or if you like a camp with more scenery you can camp at Laguna Peñon and Laguna Castillo.

'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2p, Var f., RR / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the bus from Coyhaique at 9:00. It took about 1.5 hours, cost 10,000 clp each.
The trail from Los Horquetas was well maintained. There were a few small fords along the way.
Camped at Rio Tirbio with 10 more people.
We left our bags and went to Laguna peñon and back, about 2 hours detour. The trail to the lake is marked well. The Laguna was quiet small and had milky color from the melting glacier.

2nd day:
The accent to the pass and the descent were pleasant. A little after the pass a lot of little waterfalls from melting glacier- very beautiful!
We took a detour to the unnamed Laguna using Lilian's directions.
The CC to the lake is not marked but it wasn't hard to get there. Took us about half an hour to the lake. The laguna Had a tourquize color with brown on the outside to it.

We camped at El Bosque with tons of other tourists but there was room for everybody, and it was quite.
We left our bags and climbed to the unnamed lake. The trail was marked well. It took us about one hour up. The lake was larger then the last two. We heard cracking and falling sound on the way ( maybe falling glacier?)The weather was bad and we were wet and cold, so we hurried back down.

3rd day:
After a rainy night we started a rainy day.
There were glimpses of sun and we had a chance to see the fresh snow covered mountains around.
We decided not to climb to the pass because of the weather and took var f.
We didn't regret it because it started snowing and the wind was crazy.
On the way down we met a worried ranger who was going up to stop people from climbing the pass.
At ( -46.08730, -72.17282) we split from the gpx and walked down on a well maintained CONAF trail.
At (-46.067656,-072.119996) there's a CONAF cabin and we had to pay 28,000 clp each.
We hitchhiked the MR to the main road. There were a lot of tourists on this trail and it went pretty fast.

Took a bus back to coyhaique at 16:30.

'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH02, var D, RR, variant E. RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas in the morning to hike in on option 2, very easy.

Camped at Rio Turbio camp, saw a mouse here so hung our food.

Took variant E to Laguna Peñon route is marked with cairns. very quick and easy so worth the trip.

Pass 43.9km still has snow but is easily manageable.

Camped at El Bosque and took a side trip up to the unnamed Laguna above it. Really nice would definitely recommend it. The route isn't on the track files but is on OSM and is marked with cairns.

Pass 53.5km - no snow. Crazy windy for us.

Camp 56.6km - Camping Los Porteadores - busiest so far seems to get overnight hikers from Villa Cerro Castillo. Saw a mouse here too.

Took option 3 to Laguna Duff which is very beautiful. Met a ranger at the laguna who asked where we were camping.

Followed RR out, didn't see anyway to pay. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo. Camped at Nordic Patagonia for 9k

* '''2025 Jan 2nd to Jan 4th / 2.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2 & 3, RR, Var E / MiaimZelt'''

A very scenic route with good maintained trails and lots of watersources. All Campings are really nice: lots of flat spaces, sheltered from the wind, toilet, benches and access to water.

Day 1: Took the bus at 8 from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas. The trail from Las Horquetas is open again. Everybody has to register at the ranger kiosk. Really easy trail until Camp before the pass. Var E is beautiful and mostly hiking on a big field of rocks, marked with cairns. At pass Peñon there was still snow, but doable without microspikes. The way down is very steep. Slept at Camp El Bosque.

Day 2: Can really recommend to hike up to the nameless Laguna above El Bosque. Extremely scenic lake! Also Laguna Castillo is a real gem. Stretch of big boulders above the lake, up to the pass it gets easier. Was very warm up there and had no wind. Bring water from the lake, there is none until you reach the next Camp. Way down from the Pass is very steep with lots of scree. Hiked to Camp Neozelandes, pitched my tent and did a detour to the scenic Laguna Duff. On the way up i met a lady from the Conaf, asking where i want to sleep. Inside the NP you have to use the campgrounds.

Day 3: All the way down is very easy. Had to pay 28000 pesos for 3 days, price for chileans is only a little bit cheaper. Payment possible with card or cash. At -46.115013, -72.200497 there is an open gate with a sign "Bienvenido a Sendero Laguna Castillo". It's in OSM, but not part of the GPT-Tracks.

* '''2024 Dec 13th to Dec 17th / 5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2, RR, Var E, Var F, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really beautiful section with amazing views. The park is open but Las Horquetas remains closed, though many people are hiking it anyway. If not going over the final pass, Var F can be used to exit without paying though it possibly involves trespassing.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.00817, -72.10413 Camping Río Turbio (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, nice views, can have a lot of people there)

Night 2: same as Night 1

Night 3: -46.06419, -72.16915 Camping El Bosque (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, fewer spots than first camp site, very few are really flat)

Night 4: -46.07194, -72.18416 Camping La Tetera (technically closed campground, water access is a little way away, no really flat spots, poor wind protection, excellent views)

WATER:
Water was generally easy to find.

Day 01 - Dec 13th

We left Coyhaique around 10:30. There are buses that go that route, but we decided to hitch instead. We entered through the Opt 2 Las Horquetas route. It took us three hitches to get to the trailhead. The trailhead has a big sign that says the route is closed. I don't know if they plan to open it this season or not. At the very beginning there is an estero. There is a bridge to cross it, a little old but stable. Shortly after there is a park ranger kiosk, but it was unoccupied. Overall the trail is in good condition, easy to follow, but sometimes muddy. Beautiful views along the way. We were fortunate and had excellent weather. There are several unmarked fords in the first 16 km along Opt 2, all were easy, knee high at most. Water was generally easy to find. At the Rio Turbio campground there were around 25 other people there.

Day 02 - Dec 14th

We took Var E up to Laguna Glacier Peñón. It was a great side trip. The laguna is turquoise and the mountains surrounding it are very impressive. There were still snow fields on the way to the end of the track, so we didn't go all the way, but we got past the lake and to the other side. We saw two small avalanches while we were there. We also found a bird feather, we think from a condor, that was as long as my entire arm. We really enjoyed this side trip and recommend it. Water shoes could be helpful. We didn't have ours and it was possible without, but would have been easier and faster if we had had them. Important note, the whole route is essentially a field of small boulders. It does not require any scrambling, but it is slow going compared to the trail. We did this as an out-and-back and then returned to the Rio Turbio campground for a second night. One couple came around 22:00, but otherwise no one was there.

Day 03 - Dec 15th

We left camp around 10:00. We were ready for the Pass 43.9 and thought with only 10 km to go until Camping El Bosque we would be in camp early, but we were surprised at how challenging the day was. The first few kilometers up to the pass went fairly quickly. There was still snow on the pass, but it was at that stage where it is getting thin and you can't tell where you might fall through, so it was slow going checking our footing. The weather was great, full sun and warm, very little wind. Getting to the pass was slow but not too difficult. We stopped at the mirador for lunch and to watch the dozens of waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The descent was more challenging. It is very steep, and there was lots of scree on the way down. In one section CONAF installed a series of ropes bolted into the rocks to hold on to. Once at the bottom there was a boulder field and then a very nice forest. Amazing views of the mountains and glaciers. Camp 48.0 is a decommissioned camping area under recuperation. Camping El Bosque is at km 49.0. At Camping El Bosque there were two other couples there that night.

Day 04 - Dec 16th

From Camping El Bosque we took a side route up to see a lake. On Google Maps it is called Laguna Raimundo Vargas. It is not an optional on GPT, but it is visible on OSM. The lake is not visible on OSM, but it is on satellite, which is surprising because based on measurements using Gaia, it appears to be almost twice as big as Laguna Duff. The route up is marked by carens, but it is essentially CC across talus, about 1.3 km one way. The lake and the mountains are stunning. There were lots of ice floes on the lake. We sat for about 2 hours listening to the ice crack and watching avalanches fall. We highly recommend this detour if you have the time. Going in the evening might give a nicer light. We had lunch at Camping El Bosque and then hiked as far as Camping La Tetera, which is technically closed, and camped there for the night. Three other groups passed through and two other groups camped near us at La Tetera. It rained a bit in the evening.

Day 05 - Dec 17th

We got up very early with the plan to cross the last pass before the wind picked up. We headed up to the lookout over Laguna Castillo. About 300m of the ascent are a rock scramble which is challenging with a heavy backpack. At points we needed both hands to navigate the rocks. We were feeling exhausted from the previous days and decided not to attempt the final pass. There was no snow remaining on the final pass that we could see. We spent a few hours at the top. Lots and lots of other hikers were coming up or going through. The main trail down is very steep and had lots of loose rock on it. With heavy backpacks it was a challenge and really hard on the knees. It also took much longer than we anticipated. About two km down from the top CONAF had a tent stationed. Three guardaparques are camped there to check tickets on the way up and to radio down when people are leaving. They asked for our names. When we said we came from Las Horquetas they just said okay.
We took Var F and Var G to exit the park. Var F is clearly visible from above as you descend the main trail. The route is actually in excellent condition and is very easy to follow, however in the rain we suspect it would be very muddy. We opted to take Var G which breaks off of Var F and then rejoins it later. It goes through forest and woodland, very pretty and potentially campable in places. There were also a few places where we found water. About 2.8 km into Var F there is a sign facing downhill that says No Accesso CONAF. About 1.3 km before the road there was a gate we had to jump. 300m before the final gate we descended a hill and there were a couple buildings there. One was a baño for what looked like paid camp sites (there were picnic tables around) and one was probably a rental cabaña. We passed through two more gates that were open. At the road, the final gate was secured with a chain, but it was easy to open. On the fence outside the gate and on a second gate that was padlocked shut were two signs saying in English and Spanish “No Trespassing, Private Property”. There was also a small kiosk that looked like it could have been a ticket booth just outside the gate, but no one was in it. It is unclear if the no trespassing signs referred to the property we passed through or to a neighboring property. We didn't see anyone so we didn't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of if you leave along this route. Due to the clear no trespassing signs, the no access sign as you enter the park and the park guards near the top, I would only recommend using Var F to exit the park, not to enter it.

• * '''2024-Dec-05 to 2024-Dec-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / MR + Opt.N + Opt.M + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Start on main road very well for entry exit private fields.
Same for option N and M.
I had to take option 01 because I had bad weather... Option 01 is announced in TL but I think it would be better to validate it in TL+BB because I had BB on 6km with no path and many trees still on the path that I had to go around.
Also watch out for the Rio Blanco, where the final crossing is still mandatory, the current was quite strong despite being in December.
For the climb to Cerro Castillo from Villa Cerro Castillo I asked locals people, the passage by option F would no longer be possible because the owner of the field through which we could pass would have closed his ground to visitors. So I went through the main entrance (18000 pesos) with checkpoint entrance and when you go out, you will have my layout on the next edition of the GPT I think.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Var E/ Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: We got the public bus at 8am from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (600CLP) then started walking along the road towards Lago Monreal. Got a short hitch for about 5km, then walking again in light rain. Got a second hitch with a lovely couple who own a property right on Lago Monreal - they even had a key for the locked gate with cameras and drove us right up to the trailhead. As we started hiking up into the mountains the snow started to come down fairly heavily. Sheltered under a rock where some people must camp for lunch and was able to get water from a few sources along here. Stopped snowing so we took Var C, definitely recommend, amazing views over the lakes and would be an awesome spot to camp. Started on the sketchy traverse, problem for us was it was all under about half a metre of fresh snow, on top of a layer of very slippery ice. Luckily we wear hiking boots with deep tread so had fairly good grip even without microspikes. Hiking poles were lifesavers. Issues started with the descriptions of getting around the various gullies - they described using grass to climb up but for us everything was just white!!. Tom had a terrifying slip and slide 5m towards the cliff edge before arresting with his elbow and chin - his hiking poles had chosen this exact section to break so he was doing it without even poles. After this we backed down off the climb over the gully but in the end just had to go for it. I ended up carving steps out of the snow with my hands and packing the snow down so Tom could follow me up, and giving him one of my poles. If the snow hadn’t have been so fresh I think we would have had to turn around. I wish I could say it got better but as we started to head down into the valley we began to hit waist deep snow drifts. We were planning to camp here like others had but the snow was just too deep and we were worried about the cold so we decided to try to get over the pass and down into the forest for cover. Absolute battle wading through the snow, took turns breaking trail. Couldn’t see the river and unfortunately fell all the way through the snow and got my feet wet. Pass itself fairly easy to get over and then lots of shoe skiing down the other side. Dark fell as we got to the forest edge. Got confused by the GPX as it takes you right to the edge of a massive cliff - not great in the dark. Used other peoples notes and managed to find the trail on the other side of the river then just kept powering on until we found a clear spot on the old disused road at about (-45.98519,-72.10097). Collapsed into bed after a quick dinner at about 10pm - definitely the hardest day we’ve done on the whole GPT. Really wouldn’t recommend doing this section after heavy snow unless you have microspikes and probably an ice axe. Excellent navigation skills also a must due to lack of landmarks in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to frozen solid pants and shoes - it had dropped to -8 degrees overnight and was still -4 in the morning. After much smashing of our shoes and socks on rocks so we could put them on, we packed up the tent and headed off towards the tourist track. Passed Segundo camp, no one in sight. Finally thawing out when the sun came out. Took Var E up to the glacier - super long trip on rocky scree, worth going up to the lake but don’t go beyond like we did. Kept going along regular route after detour. Fair bit of snow on the pass, had to be very careful coming down as it was icy and windswept. Saw first glimpses of Cerro Castillo from behind. Camped at the old campsite just before El Bosque - still hadn’t seen anyone on the entire trail.

Day 3: Did the side trip up to the Laguna behind the El Bosque campsite. Headed up to the main Laguna Castillo and was nearly blown off our feet as we came over the ridge. Hid behind a boulder for lunch while we assessed whether to bail down the mountain or attempt the high pass in the winds. As we ate they seemed to die off slightly so we legged it up the mountain. Awesome views over Villa Cerro Castillo and we could see back to the Torres del Avellano. As we hit the top of the pass the wind started to pick up again. We had to hide behind boulders between gusts and then sprint to the next one to avoid being blown off the mountain. Tricky coming down the pass in the high winds as the scree was pretty loose and very exposed to the wind. Eventually made it down and to Porteadores. Decided to head up to Neozelandés so we could go up to Laguna Duff in the morning. A few people were camped here - first people we had seen on the trail!

Day 4: Plans to visit Laguna Duff were foiled as we woke up to heavy snow fall. Forecast was for even more snow so cut our losses and headed down. Visibility was terrible but passed several tour groups heading up the trail. Tried to avoid the park rangers but when we thought we were home free a guy in a Ute pulled us up as we were walking along the road towards Villa Cerro Castillo and asked where we were coming from. Took us back to the office and made us pay. Awesome section, snow and wind made it challenging but was great to have it all to ourselves until the last day.

* '''2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.

Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].

Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.

Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias'''
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.

Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.

Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.

* '''2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]

I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.

Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]

Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.

Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]

Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.

The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :

Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)

Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)

Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)

Resupply in Coyhaique:

I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.

If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.

Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.

Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.

Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.

They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.

Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.

Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.

RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.

Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.

Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.

Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.

Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.

Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.

Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.

Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."

"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."

Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.

Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.

After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.

Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.

I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.

After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.

Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.

The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.

The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.

Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.

When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.

When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.

Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.

I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.

National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.

Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.

I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.

Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.

Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.

Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.

I recorded this CC, will upload it later.

Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.

After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.

Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.

Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.

Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.

Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.

Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew'''

Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)

I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.

Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.

Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.

Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)

This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.

Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.

Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)

Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)

In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.

* '''10-Feb-2024 / Hiking / SOBO / 4 days / RR + Option B (attempted) / Ella & Cristopher'''
Day 1, we walked through the sections of private property without running into anyone, but met other local hikers a bit afterwards who said they have previously had problems with one of the landowners on the route we took, and that he has now installed cameras. Got to the section with the traverse and attempted to take Option B - definitely do not recommend this option. It took us about 2 hours to walk less than a mile on the super steep and loose dirt/skree. Multiple dangerous moments. Part of this option also seems to pass through dense forest which looked difficult to bushwhack, but we didn't make it that far before turning back as it was getting late with no end in sight. We camped right at the beginning of Option B, where there is a flatter patch and stream that you can walk down to. It was a good view, but we realized later that a better and equally beautiful place to camp would have been where the land plateaus a bit and there are multiple small streams, on the RR about a km after you pass the start of Option B. Day 2, we woke up to super windy and rainy conditions, and waited for it to clear until about 3 pm before starting the traverse. The RR turned out to be a relatively safer route than Option B, though we were still glad we waited for the bad weather to pass before attempting. Followed advice from Veronica at the difficult parts, which worked well for us. Definitely budget extra time for this stretch. Camped right after the traverse when it drops down to the river, which you follow to cross the first pass. The area doesn't get a lot of sun so it was really cold at night, but still a nice place to camp with flat spots and a river. Day 3, trail before uniting with the CONAF area was difficult to follow at points and slow because you are walking a lot on loose rocks. We were very confused when reaching a waterfall with no visible trail, but a few cairns about. Following advice from Will, we crossed the river just before the waterfall to go up the left side of the valley. Climb through the trees and then cross a few meters of steep loose dirt/skree, and you should be able to see where the trail then continues in the forest. Some bushwhacking after this but relatively easy to follow GPS track until linking with the CONAF Las Horquetas trail. Camped in El Bosque Camping which had a toilet but no water tap (though there is a river close by). Day 4, relatively easy and super beautiful walking all day. We took the RR all the way to the road, which does in fact avoid the CONAF checkpoint so we never had to pay. Ran into other hikers who said CONAF is only charging when you leave the park. Got very lucky with a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo, but I would not count on it and the road gets a lot of sun and I didn't see a water source. Bus from Villa Cerro Castillo leaves at 6 pm and goes to Coyhaique for 9.000.

Feb 2023 Frank
There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully where you climb out on grass (described by Veronica) there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline.

* '''2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie'''

We started around 1500 at Coyhaique and easily hitched to El Blanco. We hitched with three cars (last went to Lago Paloma) and walked about four km in between them along Lago Monreal to Variant M. The sign against hikers scared us and it was late (1930), so we camped nearby (100 m along the fence westward). We reread other reports and decided to go for it in the morning. We first tried to go along a fence lining a small cliff about 100 metres west of the road, but it is pointless and we found ourselves on the road after a few hundred metres. We did not meet anyone. It is easy to miss RR and start on option 1, keep an eye on the GPS. We met black cows at the same place as Stiina, but they just looked omniously at us.

As for the dangerous part, Tomáš ended up doing it three times as he dropped our tent poles from his backpack just before the start of the CC section. Unlike Nat (see below), he thinks the section is quite ok and he also found it quite scenic, especially the first part over the plateau. The annoying clambering is in fact only about two km long and can be done in about an hour if you know the way. It never felt dangerous to him, but he understands others see it differently. It is certainly more demanding than the average section of GPT. The description of Véronica is the best. The last obstacle (the boulder) is not entirely vertical (it feels like scrambling, not climbing), but you do need to use your hands and it is indeed exposed, down climbing NOBO is more awkward. On the other hand, it is only about seven metres distance (not elevation). We had sunny skies, in worse weather it would be a lot more annoying. The horseflies came back from the dead and died by the dozen under our merciless hands (Nat killed three accidentally just as she tied her hair back).

At the end of CC after the pass, the trailhead is invisible (45.9731564S, 72.1026797W). It starts in the trees immediately from the river, about 10 m above the start of the waterfall in between two landslide/avalanche bands. Will comments that the GPX trail is exact, but since we are used to the GPX being slightly off, we could not see it, I guess we should have just trusted the GPX. There is a cairn in the creek marking the entrance but it is unclear how long it will stay there. Once you reach the overgrown MR, after a hundred metres of easy BB, one can cut the first zigzag straight down through easily passable mature forest. Once down on the road, you can camp on it, it is not used by cars ever. Once you reach the CC at 60.9, do not ford but stay on that side of the river!

In the popular part of the hike, people concentrate at campings, but otherwise it does not feel too crowded (less than two dozen people met on the trails themselves per day). Until nine and from about five, you will meet almost nobody on the trails. The park is very attractive. There is good internet (Entel 4g) just before the pass at 53.5. From the other side, there is a sign saying the pass closes down in strong winds. Probably better to go there in the morning (weaker wind) or late (after six) in the afternoon (rangers have probably gone home) unless the weather is good. The sign where they turn people is probably at about 1250 altitude at roughly the treeline.

To avoid paying, Nat followed the RR and was succesfull (OSM is wrong, the official trail is to the east of the GPT in the last few hundred metres). Tomáš followed the easternmost OSM trail that leaves the RR at roughly 480 altitude. The trail is rather imaginary, but it is easy walking across meadows or rarely through open forest and across several fences. His efforts were probably pointless. Tomáš also wanted to cut the walk to Villa Cerro Castillo and forded Estero El Bosque, but it was equally pointless and involved several fences.

We found screwable gas cartridges in Villa Castillo at the supermarket "Villarica", the last supermarket on the corner of - Bernardo Higgins and Bernardo a Alessandro, I think. They said they have them sometimes. There was a blackout for five hours during our stay but locals said that is not so common.

Notes from Nat:

- When in Coyhaique be sure to enjoy the bread and pizza shop called; La Tranquera Pan y Pizza (just North of the main plaza). It has a great selection of sourdough breads/Rye/whole-wheat loafs, cookies, real coffee and tasty pizza slices. ALSO don't miss the dry good store; Envasadora Aysen (45.57016° S, 72.06883° W), the good veg shop here (45.57730° S, 72.07038° W) and then the Unimarc is actually pretty good.

- My views are prejudiced against the beginning of this route bcs I was sick and not in a good mood but my thoughts at the time were; "If you want to "enjoy" section 32 then take the Las Horquetas option". I really didn't like all the sidehilling and felt you wouldn't miss out on much if you started at Horquetas. Also don't do what I did and pack twice as much as you need bcs Coyhaique "might" be the last place with good food (however it was 3-5x better than villa Castillo).

- The first tricky part was annoying bcs it was hard to get an edge (not that there is any edge left in my shoes). It was easier to walk up it and gradually cross, all in all it didn't feel dangerous. The second tricky part did feel dangerous to me bcs I went too far climbers left of the grass staircase and ended up having to traverse the short, steep and featureless slope to get back on track, a fall seemed easy and with bad consequences. The rock scramble at the boulder did not worry me but I would not have climbed it if it was wet bcs there is a lot of algae-like material on it and some of the handholds were sloppy.

- I would be very curious if one could make a new route that went up to this lake here; -45.94848, -72.07320, and then down either here; -45.95505, -72.08753 or along the ridge to here; -45.96914, -72.08724. It would be more vertical and longer but with possibly less sidehilling...

- The glacier on Variant E (6km return, half of it moraine walking) is nice but not really worth it, the lake on the other hand is 100% worth the short walk (3km return, flat river rock waking).

- The lake just North of Camping Bosque is also worth it if you can avoid the crowds. Both this lake and Variant E lake are technically CC but "well traveled" and cairned.

- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites, I recommend it. I got into an argument with a CONAF officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of CONAF I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts west of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, it is CC, obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.

- We both had to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but many going in opposite direction (~9am)

* '''2024-Jan-28 to 2024-Jan-31 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villa Cerro Castillo - Villa Frei / RR + Option 3 + Variant C + Variant M/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was another fantastic section but we don't have much to add to what has already been written. But we would still like to point out a few points:

1) At the Segundo campsite (also called Rio Turbio), mice gnawed our tent and our dry bag containing the food. It would be best to hang your food from the trees if you are sleeping at this campsite.

2) The large rock at -45.938145, -72.086171 can be avoided by doing 10 m of bush bashing just below the rock. This passage is much more visible going NOBO but it is also possible to take it going SOBO.

3) The little detour to Variant C is definitely worth it. The view of Lago Paloma and Lago Azul is truly incredible.

4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.

* '''2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres

* '''From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel'''

Villa cerro castillo - entrance Estero Parada - Laguna Duff - Sendero las Horquetas - North part of NP (CC) - Lago Paloma - Villa Frei.

One of my favourite section so far ! I had amazing weather and I enjoyed so much this stretch, even with few people on the sendero las Horquetas in the NP (not crowded, but obviously more than the usual sections of the GPT).

Entrance fees for 3 days was 16,000 CLP for me. I had no control and have seen no guardaparque during my hike.

I walked all the way up to see Laguna Duff (OPT3) definitely worth it in my opinion. Wonderful view, with still some pieces of ices floating on the Laguna, the back of Cerro Castillo and the reflects on the water were amazing. Easy to go there, as there is a trail.

The second one (OPT3A) is more tricky, no trail, and a lot of rolling stones. Beautiful too and of course, no people at all (I slept there, without tent, just on a big rock, that was incredible).

Then go up to the pass, it was a crazy hot day, for the first time since I'm in Patagonia, I regretted that it wouldn't be a little bit windy aha.

Laguna cerro castillo Is amazing. Second pass were very nice too. Bi. I passed it early on the morning, had some snow part, doable, but as it was morning, it was icy on some parts, so I putted my crampons and that was perfect. (But doable without).

Then easy trail until the end of the public part of NP (just after Segundo camping). After that the cross country part begun. Follow an old trail of the NP, some bush bashing during the forest part, and have to check often the GPS. Then you have to deal with all the rocks until the first pass.

Go down on a nice valley, and go up to the second pass. Tricky part, as described previously, is the big rock. It's maybe easier to do it NOBO because you descent it, and don't face it, which can be scary. But going on the grass part is the best way. Then follow the tree level, deal with rolling stones, and everything is gonna be alright. The récompense will be the amazing view on Lago Paloma (don't miss the Mirador).

I took the variant M to avoid the right of way conflict. No trouble at all on this way. You have to pass threw some gates. The last one, near a kind of central hydroelectric is the biggest, with camera and sign do not enter. Few people seen after this gate, and they were all very gentle and nice !

Anyway, I really loved this stretch ! As it's summertime at this time, I met a lot of chilenos in the NP, so happy to see even very young chilenos explore their outstanding country !

You have to be prepared to face a looooot of rolling stones on this section, sometimes it's like dancing on rocks. Can I say that the rolling stones make this stretch rock'n'roll ? Probably not.

Better to wait for good conditions. I can't imagine this section on a rainy and windy day !

* '''2024-Jan- 11 to 2024-Jan-13/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ Start in Las Horquetas and later RR/ Paulina'''

I started in las Horquetas, it was open even if on Conaf website this section is still closed, apparently they don't really update). When I was there ( 10 AM) nobody at the gate, so no charges. Later in the park nobody never asked me to show the entrance ticket. The same at the exit gate, they just asked me to check out ( even if I did not check in).
At the beginning of Las Horquetas trail, some very easy river crossing. Almost no people, only a few hikers on the campsite.
On Pass 32 [43.9/1470] still some soft snow, but I could cross it safetly.

Be careful on the ridge around pass 32 [ 53.5/1679] on very windy days.
I did not see any water around camping Los Porteadores, except this last section, water was available everywhere.

Beautiful and very scenic section!

* '''2023-12-29 to 2024-01-01 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Variant D & M / Roman'''

Took a Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei for 17.000$. Got another lift by someone who life's there to this point: -45.8737, -72.04342. Joined via Variant M to the RR. Camped at Camp {32} [23.6/1010]. Good place you have to Ford 2 times before the Camp and 1 times directly after it. Here the -45.93357, -72.07606 Clambering in steep terrain starts and is very challenging also in combination with snow. Very steep literally climbing up there here: -45.938145, -72.086171 especially with a backpack. I needed to go very slow and cautious with 3 point technique. After that you can follow the GPS and the Kerns to this point -45.973087, -72.102771. From there a old abandoned road goes all the way to the point where the Trail( Variant D) merges with the Sendero de Chile Las Horquetas at: X {32-D} [1.0/920]. On the trial are some parts which are not perfectly visible but with GPS no problem. There are some fallen trees and quite a few small trees on the trail. I wouldn't consider it Bush Bashing (BB) because you can just raise your arms in front of your face and walk trough it. So IMHO no BB on the route. As soon as you are at X {32-D} [1.0/920] it's a "touristy trail" compared with the other GPT parts. Therefor the condition is excellent. Camped at Segundo Camping -46.008184, -72.104121. Next day camped at Camping Los Porteadores -46.089085, -72.235431. Snow was neither on Pass {32} [43.9/1470] or Pass {32} [53.5/1679] a problem. Next day hiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. Not a single car on the street towards it so needed to hike. The RR avoids the Entrance Cerro Castillo Park (Estero Parada) there is one gate before accessing the street where you can just hop over.

Overall: really nice section and quite relaxing to have such a easy trail (the beginning is challenging due to the rock scramble). It's the most touristy part (2 groups a 7 people) but absolutely woth it. Really enjoyed it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-12 / 6 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Variant D + Variant F / Tom Pieper'''
An Uber from Cohayique to Villa Simpson is about 9.000 Peso. From there I easily found rides to Lago Elizalde. A older man told me that there was also a camino from Lago Elizalde to Lago Azul passing cerro sombrero a couple of years ago. I really liked the walking through the valley to lago desierto. It passes a beautiful farmland landscape sprinkled with little lush patches of forest and creeks. Camping is easy there. But if you want to speed up there are also cars from time to time and hitchhiking is possible. At S 45° 52.495 W 072° 16.913 is a little shelter surrounded by some old tractors and a big mate cup installation. A farmer passing by told me I am welcome to stay there. To reach lago desierto you have to climb a locked gate (well described by Kara Davis). I crossed lago desierto and camped at the isthmus between it and lago azul. There is a nice camp spot at waypoint Lake {32} [38.3/337] surrounded by old gooseberry bushes and an abandoned van. The central lodging building is collapsed so its seems to be an abandoned place now except the cattle. Next day I crossed lago azul. The wind increased dramatically forming up to 1 m waves. There are some emergency exits on the left even after the shore gets steeper after the settlers on the lefthand side. At the end of lago azul you reach a huge private hacienda on the isthmus, with a big park like forest and buildings within. I tried to sneak between the buildings but to reach the path to the mountains you finally have to pass a big meadow. There was a greenkeeper around and it was no problem for him to let me pass. The family was not around. The track to the mountains is steep and part of a big network of mountainbike trails. This network spans nearly the entire valley! I met six young chilenos who told me that they are working the summer to maintain the trails only for that family – I have never seen such a giant mountainbike network! Incredible how much effort and money must spend here only to satisfy a family’s hobby. The Chilenos were very friendly and even turned back to offer me a ride to the end of the valley as rain increased but I kept walking. This track is in really good conditions up to the bush bashing section. And here comes the problem: 1.) the bush bashing is wrong annotated. In reality it starts for 1.2 km at the end of the annotated section 2.) the track is mostly gone were it reaches the river bed. Landslides have washed away a big part. Don’t cross the landslide! It seems super instable! When you have forded the riverbed at the landslide don’t put on your shoes, yet. The following part has turned into swamp land. I suggest to make the entire 1.2 km in your fording footwear. After that the track to the las horquetas trail is mostly overgrown or blocked by trees but still visible. It was pretty hard for me as temperatures dropped to 4 °C and at this point it had not stopped raining for 48 hr. In bad weather that’s definitely no fun. The ranger hut was my salvation as it was abandoned but open and had a stove and even some firewood. The next day the weather was perfect and I continued towards cerro Castillo. There had been recent work around Camping Rio Turbio and the track is still in good condition. Paso Penón has heaps of snow and I found myself sinking to the hips from time to time. But in good weather it is ok. The views from the pass and the following valley even outcompeted the view from laguna castillo. After the paso penón the rest is fine. I used Variant F to descend. As mentioned before it now follows a different way in the end due to right of way conflict and you reach the street at approximately half way between villa cerro Castillo and the national park entrance.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''05-Apr-2023 / Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

We really enjoyed this one. It's definitely worth waiting for good weather, not only for safe traverse of the steep part in the northern part of the park and following obstacles that are quite demanding but also for the views that were just incredible.

Starting from Villa Frei in the late afternoon, we made it on that day to the turn before Lago La Paloma, where we camped right behind a fence, before a little river, that you need to cross to follow the RR. There are 2 settlements, but still far enough, so no problem. You have to cross one fence and a gate on the way up. To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side. Crossing them will take you directly to RR, so no bush-bashing is necessary. From there, the trail is pretty straightforward. We liked the view from Option B viewpoint and in good conditions it must be a perfect spot for camping, definitely doable in one day. The steep traverse didn't feel that dangerous for us, but we had really good conditions. The next obstacle, already described by others, is at the end of the traverse. We followed there a small ridge that will take you to the beginning of the grass parts. It's a little steep, but doable. From there we followed the grass parts, which create almost 'stairs' allowing you to climb up. It's again steep, but you can use your hands to pull yourself up, holding the grass patches. After that is the last challenging part, a rock that you need to climb over. We got there already after sunset and without an option to explore the best and safest way over, we decided to follow the old overgrown trail, that descends down without the need to climb over the rock. It seemed to be hard in the beginning, but after we got through the first few trees (without any leaves, just branches), we found a little strip without them, that takes you all the way down to the river, where we camped. It took us around 15 min to get down, so it might be a good alternative. From there you just need to walk through a little part of the forest and then continue by the river, so you are actually avoiding also the descent down, which some described as challenging as well.

After the first marked pass and descent in rocky terrain, the CC part connects to an old trail, that later becomes a MR. The connection was easy to find by following the GPS. We had no problems passing around the rangers house, again by following the track files, at first through the forest and later around the river. From there the trail connects to the official way which makes navigation easy. We spent the night in the official campsite around 2 km before Laguna Carro Castillo, which is the only one open. There were 5-6 other tents, no ranger. The next day the weather got way way worse, which made us skip the last pass and go down from the laguna via one of the official routes. We met a ranger on the way up, pointing us to the official trail around yellow cairns, to sign off from the park. With no intention to pay on our way from the park, we actually followed some old trail (according to the old signs we met) that took us to the main road, right in front of the bridge. We had to cross one fence, but no other problem. It's a faster and safe way from the park.

* '''5 to 7 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO / 3 days'''

Amazing section! I was worried about the tricky part, but sticking to the gpx track it didn't feel dangerous to me. Though I did have to leave the track to find easier ways around the cliffs.

There weren't any buses south out of Coyhaique on Sunday (except maybe early morning?). I ended up taking an Uber to villa frei, for a bearable 14000 pesos. The road walk was beautiful except for the wind trying to blow me into the cars. I caught a ride to Lago Monreal, from where I walked back up to variant L and then to the 23.6 campsite.

I didn't have any right of way trouble, I just had to pass through a few unlocked gates with no people or buildings in sight. There were even a few groups of day hikers who passed by my camp on the way to the Lago Paloma mirador (variant B - must see!).

I also took variant D up to the glacier lake, worth it if it fits your schedule. I didn't have time to keep going up to the glacier itself, it looked like steeper rocky cross country.

Even in the touristy parts the trail was surprisingly slow and rocky. I ran into a few rangers, who look like normal hikers except with red and white baseball hats. They were ok with me not having a ticket once I explained my weird route.

* '''15.02.23 -18.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO'''
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo

We hitchhiked from Coyhaique to Lago Paloma and started walking around 13:30 pm following the main path.

The trail at the beginning is pretty good. At the junction with the option at km 17,5 you can walk further uphill along the fence for a couple of meters to enter the fence through a gate. This option is not in the gpx files. We decided to follow that to avoid the settlers after all.Then you can follow the dirtroad through two more gates until you reach a fence that you have to jump to the right to get to a meadow with beehives. There is another gate there and then you reach the main route again. In total we only had to jump two fences.

Then we followed the main route. Soon after we went through the gate of the National park Cerro Castillo and we (unfortunately) met two guardians of the park. After some back and forth they made us turn around, telling us that this path is closed and we have to enter the park via the main entrance and pay the 30.000 clp. So we had to take the option to las Horquetas.

After a few good km on a dirtroad, the path of option 1 gets bad. It seems like it hasn't been used for a long time. It was often hard to find and involved some bushbashing. It took us quite some time to get through there. Once you are at the river it gets much better. We forded the river next to the entrance to avoid the detour until Horquetas. The option was not very nice. Mostly just walking in the forest with BB so we would definetly recommend to try the main route.

The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets. The park guardians tell you that there is no water crossing both passes and you have to carry it from the official camps, which is simply not true. There is only no water after Laguna Castillo.

At the exit (following the RR) we had to register us again. From there we planned to hitchhike to Villa Cerro Castillo, but there were no cars passing by. In the afternoon/evening it's probably easier to get a ride, because lots of cars parked at the exit. We would recommend Option E to avoid the dull roadwalk to Villa Cerro Castillo.

We stayed at Camping El Rincon, which was only 4.000 clp p.p., with no electricity, but the owner washed our clothes after we asked and we received it dry the next morning :)

* '''18 to 21 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT32 RR SOBO / 3.5 days'''

Route: Villa Freí - Lago La Paloma - north part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo - Las Horquetas trail (south part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo) - Villa Cerro Castillo
First off I want to say that I think this section deserves a 5 on the Attractiveness Scale. It is simply mind-blowingly beautiful and definitely on par with other sections further north that have a 5 on this scale. I also think the Difficulty Rating should be upped to a 5 as well, due to the technical, and arguably dangerous at times, section in the northern part of the park on the Regular Route. Wish I had someone with me during this stretch, but oh well, such is life.

I was lucky and caught a hitch most of the way to Lago La Paloma on the first day. It was hot and I don't think the road walk has any water sources until you get to the end. I then followed the new RR which bypasses the problematic right-of-way settler in the Lago Monreal area. However, this new detour is not fun. It involves climbing over (or crawling through/under) multiple barbed wire fences. I lost count after the 5th or 6th one. Also, the path and cross-country area are full of thorny plants, they got everywhere on my pack and clothing. I think it would just be better to take Option 32-L and chat with the settler instead to try and get through. Once you reach RH-MR-V {32} [18.9+4.7], it's all good, easy walking until the camp at 23.6 km.

I reccomend taking Option 32-A after the campsite instead of the CC straight through the cow pasture. It is wet and muddy, whereas 32-A remains dry and easy to follow in the forest at the edge of the meadow. I also strongly recommend taking the short detour to the mirador at the end of Option 32-B. The views there of the cliffs and mountains surrounding Lago La Paloma are incredible. You could even camp there if you brought sufficient water and the weather is calm.

Now for the difficult part in the 8-km cross-country section. This section was physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. The first pass is at S 45° 55.740', W 072° 04.501'. It is easy walking up past the treeline into the alpine up to this point. The first challenge is a steep and unstable scree traverse, which begins at S 45° 56.019', W 072° 04.567'. Follow the GPS tracks here. At first I tried to go lower, right along the treeline, which was a big mistake that got me stuck in a terrible gully of slippery hard-packed sand. Very treacherous and scary trying to traverse it on all fours. After that ordeal, I scrambled back up to the altitude of the GPS tracks. This first scree traverse lasts about a km, the rocks are loose and it is very steep. I was tense and went very slowly. Got harassed by tábanos the whole way, but at least the weather was good.

Then at S 45° 56.288', W 072° 05.184', you reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side. Figuring out how to get up that cliff was hard for me. I left my pack at the bottom and tried climbing up various different ways with no success, only tiring myself out and getting myself in precarious situations where I could barely climb back down. I finally figured out the best way was to try and get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully.

The next big obstacle is at S 45° 56.320', W 072° 05.446'. Like others have written, this is the vertical rock wall that spans up and down the mountain and that you have to climb over. I scouted ways up without my pack at first, trying to find the easiest way. At least with this rock wall, the handholds and footholds are solid — no slippery gravel/sand/scree. But it does require actual rock climbing moves. If you fall you would likely tumble down the mountain, so please be very careful. A light backpack makes it relatively safer and easier.

On the other side of this wall, you can finally see where the trees end, and the lovely river you are supposed to climb down to reach. But there is still more scree to traverse here, and it is slow and unstable again. I tried taking a shortcut down a shallow gully filled with grass. I figured it would be safer than the rocks, but it was very steep and got unexpectedly muddy at one point, and I ended up slipping and sliding down the mountainside about 10 meters before being able to stop myself. Didn't get seriously hurt, just bruised up, but it really shook me and just added to the stress and fear of this whole section. So I guess my advice here is to again follow the GPS tracks across the scree and go down gradually to the river instead of trying to go straight down.

Once you reach the riverbed, it is easy walking to the top of the pass, with occasional cairns (and some good swimming holes). Down the south side of the pass, there are still a couple scree sections, but not nearly as bad as before. Lots of boulders, so slow going, but at least they felt more solid.

As Martin Lizondo has written, finding the start of RH-MR-V {32} [34.1+1.7] is tricky. It is not a minor road, it is an old footpath. The cross-country section ends at a creek as it turns into a high and steep waterfall. You have to cross the creek and look up to find a faint, overgrown trail that goes up into the forest. Once you find it though, it is simple enough to follow. There is a stretch though of several hundred meters where it is more of a bushwhack than anything else, nature has taken over.

I followed the regular route that cuts through the forest to Río Turbío, I assume this is to avoid the ranger station nearby. The "bushbashing" section is easy through a mature forest, and then you just follow the bouldery riverbank.

Once you get to the popular Las Horquetas trail, everything is easy until the end of the section. Some snow at the top of the first pass (Paso Peñón), but very manageable. The views of the saw-toothed mountains, lakes, and glaciers are spectacular. Despite reports of the park being "overrun," I only met a handful of other hikers in this trail, and most of them after Laguna Castillo. No rangers at all.

I think the Regular Route in its current configuration avoids the blue payment tent at the end of the park trail, but I didn't know that when I passed through, and ended up just following the riverbank down to the minor road to be safe (and avoid paying the ridiculous 30,000 clp access fee). The road walk to Cerro Castillo was Easy and uneventful.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR SOBO / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

We started at Lago La Paloma, taking the bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (leaves at 8:15,15:30,17:30&19:30 from monday to friday and at 8:00 and 14:00 on saturday (no bus on sunday)). Then we hitchiked to the lake without problem and we camped there. Ready to start in the morning the next day.

Day 1 - Campamento Rio Turbio - 26.5km - +1800m/-1200m A big day but we hadnt the choice : heavy rain was announced for the next day... Cross country is demanding, better follow the tracks all the way long. A great camp site if you want to split this day is at the end of Option B. No water, windy but incredible view. The waypoint camp before is nice too.

Day 2 - Campamento El Bosque - 10km - +800m/-800m The 2 camps sites on the GPT at47.8 and at 50.3 are now forbidden. The new campsite is approx at km 49, in the middle. There is guardaparques, but no need to show the permit for us.

Day 3 - Cerro Castillo - 11km - +800m/-1500m The pass after Cerro Castillo was closed due to the wind. If you want to go to the other side, you have to get down at the park entrance and to go up again at the other entrance. We just went to the town. The regular route going down from there, from the Cerro Castillo, is not the one on the GPT. Actually, it goes more on the west side. At the end, there is a guardaparque, we checked out (even though we didn’t checked in) but no need to pay. Fortunately. Luck was with us.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR NOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

We've walked all section 32 from Villa Frei to Villa Cerro Castillo. The part from Lago Paloma to Rio Turbio is very difficult and might be even dangerous (especially in bad weather). The CC travers on the stones (in our case with strong wind and snow) was the hardest part. The MR leading down to the valley is partially overgrown. The second part is well marked with good camping possibilities. After heavy rains on Sunday 25th, the park has been closed for more than a week. There are 2 alerts on the road (see above).

* '''Feb 17 RR 3 days SOBO Frank'''

Walked from Villa Frei. After about 12KM there is a food truck next to the road. Owners live there so should open for you. The owner of the private land wasn't there so had no access issues. You can camp in a big meadow @ 1250 metres or in good weather at a pass @ about 1325 metres (not marked on track file) just before the difficult CC section begins. Followed Veronica's advice to get up the gully on grass which worked well, thanks Veronica. There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline. The second bypass is not very obvious but stay at the treeline & you will get through easily. After the pass, descending scree you come to a waterfall. Go left into the forest immediately before the waterfall - you may see a small cairn marking the spot. Just footprints at first but pick up a small trail as you go in. Leaving the park the RR to the left goes through private land. The optional route straight down is now the main trail, it goes down to a checkpoint just before the road. Checkpoint is at a stile over a fence so can't be avoided. It is run as a private 'concession' from CONAF. The workers were friendly & didn't charge me anything. However next year the concession will be run by a different company so depends who is there.

* ''' Note on Options 4, 7 and 8:'''
GPT32 Option 4: is the gravel road to Lago Elizalde and Lago el Desierto. A subsidized bus travels this route 2 or 3 times per week.
GPT32 Option 7 and 8: Are routes published on Wikiloc and/or www.suda.Io. This means someone took these routes in the last years but not much more information are available.
(Source Jan Dudeck: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1498106867361861/ )

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 05-07, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

We continued into this section straight from the previous one - 31H and the start of it, about first 16km, is like the whole previous section - dirt road. We hiked about 5 of those 16km and hitched the rest which I think was possible quite easy because it was weekend and a lot of cars with families were going to the Lago La Paloma.

The interesting part started once we were at the gate after crossing the outflow of Lago Monreal. The big sign was posted there stating that this is not some Sendero de Chile and that passing through here is strictly forbidden. We saw a guy at the gate when we were approaching, but as it was lunch time for us we stayed at the stream. Afterwards the guy was gone and there was no phone signal to call the nr. that Martin Lizondo has provided. After considering options of different routes we decided to keep it cool and climbed over the gate with fingers crossed. There were houses a few hundred meters up the road, but nobody seemed to be at home at that point, perhaps working in the field somewhere in the back, so we walked through the forbidden land without anyone intercepting, luck was with us. A few more gates later we climbed up into the forest and finally the Cerro Castillo National park with a big old welcoming sign. We stayed at the first marked campsite at 22,7km, there is a stream.

Next morning as we were having our breakfast about 30 cows showed up and were completely dazzled by our presence. They stared at us for about 15min until they finally relaxed a bit, but not fully. As we were packing our camp some sudden movement must have scared them and they all went running for their lives as if a Kraken himself was after them, silly cows, we thought. Once we were all packed and ready to go we crossed the stream into the next meadow, and saw all the cows about 200m to our left. I am not exactly sure how cows work, but as soon as they saw us they organized a gang and all of them started running right at us. We of course were standing our ground so the cows would stop just 5m from us and look all tough. I would try to scare them away by counter attack in the form of a shouting, hiking pole waving lunatic. It worked to some extent, as we could slowly walk out of it, but the cows kept persistently be really close and walk/run at us. I guess they were trying to protect their pasture, maybe someone can enlighten me about cow-dynamics.

After the great battle of 2022, we disappeared in the forest and enjoyed the nice forest path while it lasted. Once out of the three line the path disappeared so we more or less followed the GPS marking. Neither of our maps showed the mentioned old path descending down into the valley, it was actually matching with the GPS, more or less. Up to the first pass, which is not marked, but is at about 26,8km the cross country was easy and then as mentioned before it got pretty difficult. If it would just be steep scree slope it would be alright, but this one had hard packed sand under the scree or sometimes no scree on it so it was very slippery (in dry conditions). Lots of prayers went to the Gods of Friction which helped us with traversing the treacherous slopes, with plenty of chances to become a statistic. I don’t think that that traverse is possible in wet conditions, not without crampons. And as for every good cake there is always a cherry on top, which was a little rock climbing session, which I personally didn’t mind, but I am not sure other hikers would appreciate. After that we still had to descend a steep scree down to the river. If there is a potential trail or option to go down the valley after the pass and then follow the river bank up, I think it is definitely a better, faster and safer option, especially if weather is not favorable. And looking from above down the valley it seemed like a feasible option to follow the river as the river itself was easily crossable and we didn’t spot any cliffs there, maybe next time.

After reaching the river at the valley bottom the way up to the second pass was easy and straight forward, even though still “sin sendero”. The way down from the pass is steep and bouldery but not dangerous and after a short bit some first signs of an old trail can be noticed, some cairs appear. Then once the trail gets down to the tree line there are a few bushy places, but nothing too bad and the closer to the actual trail you get the better it becomes. We also somewhat followed the GPS track but stayed more in the forest rather than beach to avoid the ranger hut.

Once we made it to the Las Horquetas trail all our worries were behind us and we could enjoy the nice trail and magnificent views. I don’t think I have ever seen tree line ending almost at the edge of the glacier in Europe it was happening a century ago, pretty cool stuff. We camped at the “segundo camping” with many other hikers, none doing the GPT though. And an interesting thing we observed was that people would just drink straight from the silty glacier stream without filtering or treating their water at all. Observation was made of different groups of people at different campsites. Is that a Chilean thing? Very impressive gut, if they can do it, unless ignorance is a bliss or they knew something that we didn’t.

Nevertheless, two more mountain passes and we were heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo, with crowds of day-hikers that had come up to the Mirador Cerro Castillo. From there we actually didn’t follow the GPS track but headed down straight to the town. The ticket office with the park official is actually around this area: (46º 6.7520' S, 72º 12.0032' W). And the trail leading there is the official trail. The one that seemed on the map like the official, was actually not in use, not sure why. The satellite view on Gaia and info on the maps is somehow outdated. We tried to sneak past the office to avoid all explaining we had to do, but it’s kind of strategically placed so it wasn’t possible and we ended up just talking to the girl that was making sure everyone is checking out of the park. We had to pay 18.000 pesos per person which is the ticket for foreigners that want to go up to the mirador. We didn’t spill the beans about camping in the park and our small backpacks kept the suspicion low, so in the end it all worked out pretty good. From there it is still almost 5km to the town on a very dusty road, but with all the day hikers leaving a hitch was not a problem.

The town is really nice with plenty of shops and accommodations options. The only thing we didn’t manage to find was the threaded gas canister, but we found a few half-empty ones left in the Nordic Patagonia mess tent.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2021-Dec-18 to 2021-Dec-22 / Option 6 (Valle Balboa), Regular Route (Packrafting Lago Desierto and Lago Azul) and Option 9 (Packrafting Lago Paloma) / Northbound and Westbound / Meylin and Jan'''

General Remark:
This route provides an attractive alternative to the overrun Cerro Castillo trail. The popular Cerro Castillo trail is also highly regulated (obligatory camp sites, closed in suboptimal weather) and costly (27’000 CLP entrence fee) therefore this alternative should be considered by hikers and packrafters.
At the upper terminus of the Valle Balboa is a 5 km long and 400 m wide pasture at an altitude of 1100 m. To utilize this pasture for cattle summer grazing, settlers build a 18 km long trail through the forrest along the Rio Balboa.
This very scenic Valle Balboa trail was hiked and published on Wikiexplora by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn. But the southbound descent down to Rio Ibañez was made by climbing down with a rope in very steep terrain because the location of the descending trail was not yet documented.
Therefore we investigate this route in the opposite direction to search the southern trailhead to incorporate a feasible hiking traverse from Rio Balboa to Rio Ibanez in the GPT network.

Summary of Northbound Investigation:
Tobias Hellwig suggested where the southern trailhead may be located. A detailed analysis of satellite images and elevation profiles supported this and a local resident confirmed this assumption. After an hour of searching we found the southern trailhead. This trail terminates at a 400 m by 60 m pasture at abandoned camp (“Camp A”) from where no trail appears to continue.
To continue through the last section of forrest we bush-bashed through very steep terrain and continued trail-less through a rather open forrest until reaching open terrain (“Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez”). From this point we traversed the open terrain on a slightly higher route than recorded by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn and meet the previously recorded route at the descent into the Valle Balboa (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”).
From this point we followed closely the previously recorded route in the Valle Balboa from where we packrafted westbound over Lago Desierto, Lago Azul and Lago Paloma.

Recommendation for Southbound Hikers and Packrafters:
Hikers that wish to bypass the Cerro Castillo trail may either road-walk 25.5 km from Villa Frei via Lago Elizalde to Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 4) or take the bus from Coyhaique to Lago Caro and leave the bus just after the bridge over Rio Paloma.
Alternatively hikers may walk along the lakes Lago Paloma, Lago Azul and Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 5) but bypass the buildings at the trail start to avoid a right-of-way dispute (see yellow arrow on the image that first follows the beach of Lago Paloma and than sneakers in between some trees to the trail).
Packrafters best paddle the three lakes to get to Rio Balboa. Note that the predominant wind direction is westbound.
After reaching the western end of Lago Desierto hikers and packrafters closely follow the route of GPT32 Option 6. Note that the multiple river crossings of Rio Balboa may become impassable after heavy rain and are generally easier in the morning (due to snow and glacier melting water that reaches it maximum in the evening).
After reaching open terrain at Kilometer 24 (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”) hikers and packrafters traverse 5 km open terrain to the waypoint “Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez” while enjoying the wide open view into Valle Ibanez. Starting from Kilometer 24 do not follow any more track “EXP-OP-TL-V {32-06} [0.0+30.6]”.
After entering the rather open forrest best follow the 8 waypoints of “Proposed Improvement for Investigation”. This bush-bashing route probably avoids the very steep descent that we struggled to get up with our heavy packrafting gear. When reaching the trail (either “Record 1” or “Record 2”) follow the generally well-visible and well-maintained trail to “Exit Forrest Valle Ibanez”.
Note that that “Record 1” and “Record 2” includes all our searching, so don’t take these tracks as an instruction but use your common sense to follow only the relevant parts.
When reaching Rio Ibanez packrafters can float on the river towards Cerro Castillo while hikers must walk along the northern side of Rio Ibanez to Cerro Castillo.
As an add-on hikers and packrafters may take GPT32 Option 3 to visit a less frequented trail of Parque Cerro Castillo.

(Note: taken from here https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1256244101548140/ - now the options are part of the GPT Track files, the Facebook post includes pictures.)

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Section 32, Option 7: Valle Balboa. Southbound. 11 days (including waiting out a snow storm). Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.'''

After walking Section 35 we emerged in Cochrane to a world changed by the virus. We retreated to the now unfriendly Chili Chico and caught the ferry across to Ibáñez in the morning. For my mum and sister, getting back to Santiago to catch a flight home had been the priority, but on the way they shifted more to the stance I was taking: what was the point? Get stuck in Australia, or here? Patagonia didn't seem all that bad, and apart from facemasks and hand sanitiser, there were no shortages like back home. By the time we reached Coyhaique we'd all decided to stay a week or so to hatch a plan. We met up with Aldo and camped in his backyard for almost a week. I helped build his house a bit, but time was mostly filled with playing chess, dice, cards and guitar. The atmosphere seemed to encourage a lethargic state, blurring the days together and bending time. Finally however, we packed and walked into the town centre to make a start on the interesting option #007 of Section 32 through Valle Balboa, (traversing roughly from Lago Desierto to Río Ibáñez). With the virus and public transport on hold, it seemed unlikely the bus to Villa Freí (that we took last time for the RR of Section 32) would be running. We asked a taxi driver for a quote to drive us out. We grabbed some more supplies, and then caught a taxi with a much friendlier driver to Lago Elizalde ($15k). The driver showed us a great public camping spot on the shore of the lake. There were many established camp sites back from [close to] the beach. It was such a nice spot that we decided to lay back and spend the afternoon and night there.

In the morning, we walked the road to Río Paloma, scoring a lift for 5ks or so. We camped by the river not far before the end of the road.

In the morning we walked the last bit of the public road to where it ends at the very rickety bridge over Río Mogote. There is a nice little camping spot here (-45.91100, -72.31823). Climbing over the locked gate, we walked the private road to the ford. We tossed up visiting Lago Desierto and the people living next to it, but with the virus decided against it. This meant we didn't actually have to cross the river, instead locating the old road to the south. (The track files follow the road, but it is no longer used by vehicles and it is actually easier to head back down the main road a couple of hundred metres to where a cattle trail exists (-45.91601, -72.30806)).

Following this distinct road for some time, it seemed to be used for horse riding tours as there were coloured signs like "Spanglish" and "Toobooku" on the side. You will soon reach the gate included in the track files. Here there is also access to a bridge across Estero Balboa. It looks like you can then access trails most of the way up to Cerró Negro. This might be interesting if someone wants to explore.

A couple hundred metres after the gate the old road ends and an obvious trail continues to a miskept farmhouse. Continue along the well defined trail that gets a bit scrubby/overgrown before entering the forest. The trail is then very well maintained although quite muddy in spots (I could see it being quite bad after rain). You will need to ford a tributary not marked in the track files (-45.95592, -72.35114). Shortly afterwards is a junction (-45.95654, -72.35216). The route up the side valley could be explored if someone wants - we went only a short way to a corral. The track will dip back down to the river where there is an established camp (-45.97039, -72.35461). Continuing up the valley, there are many more established camps - the best are generally in close proximity to the fords.

The first time you cross the estero is about here: (-45.98105, -72.36205). There is only one ford, not two as the track files indicate. At the next couple of fords, the actual track deviates slightly from the track files. If you follow the current track files, you will avoid crossing the river at all, but will end up bush bashing briefly. We crossed the next two fords, but by staying on the west side of the river they should also be easily avoidable.

The trail exits the forest (-46.02116, -72.42538)(the camp marked in the track files here is a swamp - go further up the valley!) from where it is cross country walking, not actually a trail as indicated. We camped next to the puesto which incorporates some pieces of a crashed plane (we found another piece whist exploring, but not the actual crash site). The route up to the Laguna Campana is also open and straight forward.

We waited out a rainy day only to wake to a snow storm the next!... and the next!. We ended up waiting 4 nights experimenting with some different bread recipes whilst we waited out the inclement weather.

Finally a sunny day! Continue up the valley, CC walking past an old corral. At the Nacimiento del Estero Balboa you again briefly enter the trees. Like the previous marked camp, again this whole area was very swampy and I didn't see a suitable place to camp. The camp included in the track files is in the middle of a swamp! We picked up fragments of a track heading up through the trees, but I think it is very vague or overgrown. That said, we had nearly a foot of snow in places so we could have easily missed things! There is a very obvious section of track here : (-46.05648, -72.47298). You'll quickly exit the trees (-46.05923, -72.47005) and start a long CC section in the alpine. We found some sections of trail, but for us it was mostly cross country walking. Plenty of water options the whole way.

When you enter the forest after completing the alpine section (-46.08687, -72.43537), you will be bush bashing for a long time! There was no discernible track even when we criss-crossed over the track files searching for it (no snow here anymore). Approaching the deep gorge, I decided to lead us a different, less steep way. This worked well and we camped at a very nice spot by the stream at the bottom (-46.09414, -72.42582).

The next day we were debating simply following the river down (I wish we had!). Instead, we headed straight up the other side of the gorge. We located part of an old track here (-46.09685, -72.42463) but quickly lost it as we passed through the saddle (I think maybe it continues north?). Rejoining the suggested investigation route (EXP-OP-TL-I@32-07-#003), there is a good stream (-46.10202, -72.42403) and some camping on its banks.

After some horrible bush bashing, we finally made it to a ravine gashing steeply down the mountain (-46.10598, -72.41534). There were many drops and it was impossible to go directly down. We later found out that the only other party to do this part had a rope! I can't really recommend going down here [and my sister can't recommend it at all! - "This is shit!"] Again, I'd recommend taking the main valley. The climbs we did were much more difficult than those on the northern part of Section 32 RR that people complain about. Also, if doing this option, it would be much easier travelling north! You could also consult the settlers on a better route. We finally reached the bottom where it opens up after about ~6hrs!

Continuing, if you do follow EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, the track files indicate there is a trail, but it is not quite so. There are CC sections and a labyrinth of cattle trails. You will need to use them to your advantage where they exist, and leave them when they go the wrong way. We went this way for a little while, but then tried following a primary cattle track that seemed to be heading directly down to the river... but we got stopped by a swamp (-46.11623, -72.41080). Continuing along EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, you will get CC walking from the woods (after a cliff) about here: (-46.11546, -72.42372) If we were there again we would follow EXP-OP-CC-A@32-07-#004 down past the settler to the river. It then looked easy to walk along the river north to the cable car.

The cable car: Don't use this by yourself! Don't use it if you are only two! Use it with three people minimum! I can't stress this enough. There is a lot of fiction and the locals we talked to here don't even consider it safe. They used the boat which has its own steel cable allowing you to tack across with relative ease. You will get wet feet if using the boat.

Taking the cable car, we only just made it across with one in the car and two hauling on the rope, and at one point it looked like my sister might get stranded on the far side (she had a nightmare that night!).

Carretera Austral: We waited the entire day by the Carretera Austral. Finally catching a colectivo late in the afternoon. With the virus, it was hard/imposible to hitchhike. We paid an inflated price ($3kpp) for transport to Cerró Castillo.

* '''2020-March-6 / Ty & America / 4.5 Days SOBO RR. Start @ El Blanco'''

We started in El Blanco, opting to hike by Lago Montreal, which was pretty nice. No traffic though, so if you’re wanting a hitch the regular start in Villa freí may be a better option. Settlers in Lago Montreal are super friendly. There’s a bit of water there as you pass by the lake. We camped there. I recommend going further to the marked camp though because the next day is a big challenge. RH-CC-A@32-25.2+7.9 Is the Cruz of the section. After this all good. I do not recommend doing this unless you’re very comfortable on your feet and have a lightweight pack.

-stick to the treeline/marked path on this. The traversing is tough, but completely doable. 2-3 km in is the gully with the very difficult climb. Keep the the grassy patch, getting to the base of it was the most dangerous part for us. Very slippery rock. I had America drop her pack. High risk, but I was MUCH more comfortable.

-about a k after is the second dangerous area. This is a straight rock wall that spans all the way up& down the mountain. The only way through is to climb around. I checked below it and didn’t find a way through the trees. I took both Sanita & America’s packs through this section; as again, it’s very high risk..with an actual climbing move involved. Again, it’s important you’re very comfortable with your pack to get through these parts.

After these dangerous sections we were wiped out and camped in the valley before the pass. Lots of places to camp with good water. Be aware of slight rockfall risk. There’s an amazing place to camp with ideal conditions at the top of the pass.

Going on, all smooth, both marked camps on the way up the second pass are actually closed...there’s an open camp right between the two.

Amazing places to camp up by Laguna Castillo.

We snuck around the riverbed once we saw the blue tent at the bottom (where you might have to pay) and got by with no problems.

* '''Jan 2020 GPT32 South 7days / Felix'''

Coyhaique to Villa Freí: There is a bus from the bus terminal in Coyhaique to Villa Freí. From there it was a hot dusty road.

Accessing the park : You have to pass through 4 private properties to enter the first sector of the park. We met some people. Had short friendly chats, but no problems with access. Just before you enter the park (where there are two trail options) there is easy access to the river via a cow trail. However water in general was no issue and I didn't carry water for the entire 7 days through the park.

The camp site used to be an official campsite before the sector was closed due to access problems. The dunny is in great shape.

Through the first sector : The trail is in great shape until after the mirador. You then cut upwards into the alpine which is also easy walking. After passing through a saddle, you contour around above the treeline. This is the most difficult part of the section. Quite a bit of step scree traversing. Not for everyone. Once you drop into the valley waking is again easier. There are some occasional cairns that become more and more frequent as you drop into the other valley. As you contour left an intermittent trail is evident. When you enter the lenga forest (-45.97321, -72.10278) there is a great trail down that turns into a road here : (-45.97886, -72.10358) (Jan: maybe you want to update the track files to reflect this?) Then is road walking to join the popular walk.

Popular sector of Cerró Castillo : There are some side trips not included in the track files. They're on the map you get. Note that the old Bosque site (-46.06197, -72.16016) and La Tetera (-46.07200, -72.18390) are now closed. You can not camp there. For most people this means camping at the new el Bosque : (-46.06418, -72.16964)(Jan : maybe you want to update the track files?) Get to Laguna Cerró Castillo before 12 to beat the walkers heading up for the day. But this shouldn't be an issue as you need to cross the pass early : an important thing we would have liked to know is that the pass (-46.08030, -72.21103) can be closed in the afternoon due to strong winds. There is literally a ranger there that can turn people around. Not much water over the pass either. And the poza cerca mirador doesn't look welcoming. Carry water here. In the next valley there were more rangers and we saw some people get checked for permits. It's a shame this park is now being comercialalised :(

Getting back to Coyhaique : Not much traffic. The last bus heads back at 6pm

I'll try upload some map photos and a breakdown of the entrance fees when I get the photos off my camera.

Cheers, Felix.

* '''2020-Jan-18 and 19 / Regular Hiking Southbound / Martin Lizondo'''

The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge. I met other day hikers going to « El Mirador ». Snow was easy at the passes. The trail was in good conditions until the cross country. There are two spots which I consider dangerous, so I don’t recomend doing this section alone: 1) the gps tracks passes through a very vertical rocky (nearly climbing). I was scared and I can’t recommend doing it, except you asume this risk. I could see later in a map that the original route went all way down in the valley through lenga forest, but if there was a trail it’s invisible now. 2) When the cross country leaves the tree line and becomes a small trail into the lenga forest at 45º 58' 23,54" S, 72º 6' 10,02" O (“minor road” starts later, despite the gps track info); it’s very stepy and unmaintained. I made a mistake and started to follow the stream all way down, but you have to look up and search the beginning of the hidden path. It’s very vertical and easy to fell down, because of recent land slides. Be extremely carefull. The rest of Cerro Castillo from Las Horquetas is well maintained, beautifull and enjoyable. Cons: Lots of people. When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu'''

No technical difficulties in the park, just following the trail and enjoying the views.

To follow the GPT northbound, leave the parc trail to go north. It is an "old sendero" in the forest, but well maintained and easy to follow during the beginning (it is marked on maps of the parc). In this direction, no problem to leave the forest in a safe spot, but southbound, looking behind, seemed hard to find the entrance of the forest and of the safe trail ! No technical difficulties until the first pass, rocky terrain like the rest of the park.

The dangerous part is indeed between the 2 passes. You dont go in the valley in front of you but follow the altitude line until the pass that you see at the right side of the valley. Very steepy rolling stones path. I was a little bit afraid. I tried to be smarter than the tracks, trying more uphill... this was a dangerous mistake that took me long to repair and go back to the tracks. There are indeed two river crossing (no dangerous waterstream) but they are circled by cliffs, so not easily crossable.
The track follow mostly the tree line (I.e the separations between the little trees and the stones) So my recommendations :
- follow the gps tracks : they follow the tree line who is safer with a solid ground and grass. Sometimes you have to cross the stones, no choice, so go slowly, choose your paces wisely and it's doable. Try to aim for the grounds of grass in the middle, which are solid, or the stones with foam on them, which mostly didn't move for a while. For the rivercrossing, it aims a good spot with no need to climb down or up.
- choose a good weather day : for me it was sunny and no wind, so perfect day, and it was already mentally hard (not speaking of the horseflies getting you crazy during the hard moments !). I wouldn't try it with rain or big wind in this river of rolling stones.
- if you don't feel it, easy escape by the normal trail of the parc

However, I can assure that the prize for the effort, going northbound, is amazing !! But I won't spoil !
After the second pass, no technical difficulties, you find a Conaf trail easily, and I even cross some tourists with a guide.

* '''2019-Nov-29/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 3days / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route with OH-MR-V (Villa Cerro Castillo to Las Horquetas)'''

The section follows the rather popular tourist Hiking route Las Horquetas for the first two days, meaning there will be less solitude but also rather well maintained trails. The national park and the region around Cerro Castillo was very impressive, we especially enjoyed to take all the side trails and visit the numerous beautiful glacier lagoons. The only unpleasant part of the hike was the organization of the national park. The exorbitant high entrance fees are in no relation to the other parks, which is due to a high ratio of private land in the area but makes the park rather unattractive for tourists. some rangers seemed poorly informed and couldn't give much information (e.g. insisted that passes were "closed" and only after asking numerous times agreed to check with his colleagues that told that they are "open"). They also said it is not possible to hike the regular route of the GPT, because we have to check out of the NP at the checkpoint Las Horquetas. There is an optional hiking route continuing North from there. Due to bad weather coming up we ended up not finishing the northern stretch of the trail and just followed the entire Las Horquetas Route at the Carretera Austral.

* '''2019-Nov-29 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

Snow line is at around 1200 Meters but all passes are safely traversable.
The National Park Entrance Fee got raised to 29000 CLP per person for overnight hikes in season 19/20. The park generally seemed very poorly organized, we were told the passes are "closed" at first, whereas they were easy and safe to traverse. The ranger insisted that we could not hike the normal route northbound but have to sign out of the park at the Las Horquetas checkpoint. In high season, the ranger station in the park is manned, so maybe it is possible so sign out there and head northbound.

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Eva Havlová'''

There is still lots of snow in the National Park. I arrived to Villa Cerro Castillo 3 days ago (Novembre 12, 2019) and planed to hike nortbound but rangers didn't let me go. I saw the pass they were talking about (avalanche risk) and I don't think any avalanche could occur, but the thought is that there is lots of water running down and the trail is like a stream. They said it might be possible to do it next week.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019 Jan/ Oilrik / Northbound'''

We ended up doing the normal Cerro Castillo hike as the weather was forecasting heavy rain and snow so we did not want to be on the pass. The regular trail is just gorgeous and the park is beautiful. The trail in the north is not on the new CONAF maps but is marked on the old ones.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:'''

A sandy beach with a visible structure in the grass is the take-out for Lago Elizalde. After exiting, make your way through the farmland until encountering a gravel road that leads past the house at the top of the hill up to Ruta X-686.

Ruta X-686 is a lightly trafficked but well-formed gravel road that is fenced on either side. After crossing the Río Paloma, Ruta X-686 makes a sharp left and begins to climb. 4 km after the sharp left turn, cross a bridge to the left and climb to a wooden gate. If you descend the steep slope to the left of the gate, there is camping under some trees.

The wooden gate marks the beginning of a very long driveway to a house located near the lake. The route takes you along this driveway until a river crossing. After crossing the river, walk northeast along its shore towards the Río Paloma. After reaching the end of the fenceline near the Río Paloma, turn east and walk along the fenceline until reaching Lago Desierto. At the river outlet, there is a nice beach to put in to Lago Desierto.

There is no camping along the shores of Lago Desierto. The take-out is a rocky beach at the base of a bluff. Walk up the bluff and cross country through the farmland to Lago Azul. At the east end of the farm, descend down a road to a rocky beach at the Lago Azul shoreline with a metal structure.

There are a couple of potential camping options along the shoreline of Lago Azul. There are also several residences on the north shore. The take-out is a long rocky beach set before a well manicured forest. On the east end of the land near Lago La Paloma is an expensive looking house surrounded by several other buildings.

There is a 4WD track to the west of the smaller red house located south of the big residence. Ascend the steep climb on a well-formed road that is criss-crossed with several smaller tracks labeled in english with wooden signs. Due to the steep slopes on either side of the cut out road, there is no camping here.

Eventually, the route turns off of the road onto an overgrown 4WD track. Camping off the track is still difficult because of prickly vegetation and steep terrain. This track ends 2.5 km from where the Regular Packrafting Route joins the Regular Hiking Route. From here, the route involves some bushwhacking and following a small trail as it winds in and out of existence. Just before joining with the Regular Hiking Route, the route widens into an old 4WD track that passes some destroyed structures.

The routes join up at a large rock cairn and continues to follow a 4WD track until reaching a large wooden sign with a map of the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. Here there is also a campsite and ranger station. There is a 5.000 CLP fee to enter the reserve.

The route from here is a popular track for backpackers with designated campsites. The trail is well-formed and winds through the forest. When the trail becomes less obvious, the way is shown with yellow markers. In this area there is a designated campsite with a latrine.

At treeline, follow the cairns and rocks painted with white and red stripes through the scree up and over the first pass (approximate elevation 1.450 m). After the steep descent, reenter the trees. There is a campsite, Camping El Bosque, soon after reaching treeline (approximately elevation 940 m) with water and a latrine.

The trail begins to wind up through the forest toward Laguna Castillo. The sights from Laguna Castillo, which is at the base of the pass, are stunning. There are two tracks that climb up to the pass. Make sure to take the path that climbs to the south instead of continuing southeast over the obvious saddle.

The track down to Ruta X-720 is well formed, marked, and popular, but occasionally braided. Follow it until reaching the wooden stile with a rangers hut. From there join Ruta X-720, a dirt road which leads to Highway 7 and Villa Cerro Castillo.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Dec / Michael and Kasia
We stayed at Hospedaje Gemita on Ramón Freire next door to Camping Castillo, 20.000 pp for room in a shared cabaña. The cabaña had 4 rooms (2 doubles, 2 singles), a well equipped kitchen, hot shower. Not allowed to do laundry in the Hospedaje, but there is a lavaderia in town. The hosts, Gemita and Pedro, are very nice. They have also spent a lot of time in Los Avellanos on horseback. Maria, one of the settlers in the valley in Avellanos is a cousin of Pedro.

We found gas in four shops, two had the threaded canisters for stoves, one was 6.000 for a 300 ml tank, the other was the COPEC across the highway from town, 4.000 a tank. The others just had refills, cheapest was the supermercado on the highway, 2.700 for a refill canister.

There is a Banco de Santander ATM in the COPEC on the west side of the highway.

Just on the other side of the highway on the road to the park there is a fruit and vegetable shop that also sells frutos secos and nuts in bulk. He had the best prices.

*2024-Mar /Joscha

Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.

*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=
*2024-Dec Buses Sao Paolo passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique every day around noon, 8.000 pp; Buses ECA passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique Thursdays and Mondays songs 11:30, 8.000 pp.
*Buses to Villa Frei from Coyhaique bus terminal: Monday 7:30, 8:15, 15:30, 17:00, 19:30 Tuesday to Friday 8:15, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30 Saturday 08:00 and 14:00. No bus on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Villa Frei & the bus generally turns around immediately & goes back to Coyhaique.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023/ Martin & Helena
To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side.

*2023/ Jakub+Veronika:
1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets.

*2020 / Martin Lizondo
The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge.
(...)
When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT32 - Cerro Castillo]]

=Images=

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2026-09-09T21:06:05Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT 32 | 1/26-1/28 | 2.1 Days | SOBO | RR | Graham + Gabe '''

Nice chill section. Beautiful.
Started from Las Horquetas at Noon.
Bus from Coyhaique at 8am and 4pm, we took uber for 35k.
They want you to do it in 3 nights, but it is easy and they charge per night.
First Pass is quite chill, not much snow. Beautiful Glacier Waterfalls on descent.
Camped 1km before La bosque campground.
2nd day we tried to get early start before wind. Arrived at pass at 11am, but it was too late.
Ended up descending from pass in horrible wind, some gusts up to 70/80kmh. Quite scary, but we worked slowly and carefully.
Tried to pass Park Ranger early next morning to avoid paying, but did anyway.
Nice section, lots of people though.

''' GPT32/2026-02-12 to 2026-02-14/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''

Traverse from 28-30 km took some time, it isn’t extremely sketchy, but we had to be careful, in bad weather could be bad idea. Wet grass or buddy terrain would make it much harder.
From camp El bosque we went for sunrise to Mirador de Cerro Castillo, so we were there alone, but camps were pretty crowded.

In National Park probably hikers should book tickets in the advance, to limit number of tourist on trail and in Camps. We didn’t know about that, but no one checked on that. When we followed the RR all the way we didn’t go through any official entry or exit to National Park so we didn’t pay any fees.

Camps:
1. S 45.910617° W 72.058600° big meadow with water.
2. Camping El Bosque in NP

No water issues at whole section.

Resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo we did in Minimarket Villarica, they have gas as well. It was closed but we called them and begged to open for us.

* '''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-17 / 6 Days / Packrafting + Hiking / SOBO / RP + 09 + M + RR + E + RR + Castillo glacier + RR + 10 / Antoine B'''

One of my favourite sections.

Day 3 (I started with 31P)

From the shore of lago Elizalde, it was tricky to find a way through the fences, so I crossed the river and reached the main road where I hiked for about 2 hours (barely any traffic going south). I finally got picked up by a French Guide who drove me to the crossing right after Rio Paloma bridge (looks gorgeous). I finished walking down to the private property where I had a discrete camp by the river trees.

Day 4

When entering the lake at 9am, I met a friendly keeper who let me embark on Lago Desierto (beautiful, some OK waves). Saw no one at the next shore. Another 2h beautiful lake crossing, where waves got bigger and chaotic by the end, especially close to the cliffs. After landing, I saw a keeper and asked for the right of way. He asked the manager who denied access through the property to the MTB trails climbing in the mountains. Puzzled about how I got there (the whole valley is the property of a rich US owner who hires 20 people all-year long). He gave me a boat ride across Lago Paloma, then a car ride uphill to catch up variant M, in front of the gate (with cake and coffee extras). Turned out quite well in the end. Walked in a nice forest, fantastic lookout and had a lovely camp at the start of the ridge section.

Day 5

Bad weather arrived and I slept in until 12. At 2.30pm, when the rain stopped, I explored a potential alpine route following the ridge and slaloming the peaks.
Awesome views but this looked more like mountaineering in steep/scree terrain, and with hail/strong winds starting I decided to go down to connect back with the track, at the difficult waterfall. It was a slow descent in unstable terrain but I liked the offpist experience. The whole area reminded me of Lappland somehow. The descriptions to climb the grassy slope by the waterfall and go by the forest to avoid climbing were useful. The grassy slope is actually better than it looks but I was careful with the wet ground and the 25kg backpack. The valley was beautiful but windy so I continued to the other side and camped in the forest, as indicated by .. at .. quite tired and my shoes suffered so perfect to stop there.

Day 6

Finally some sun among clouds in the morning. Generally easy walking to connect with the main trail. Went running to E up to glacier, without any bag. Cloudy, not the best light but still enjoyed it and the view up there (but I like climbing rocks, for some it may not feel worth it). Still haven't met anyone. Backpack felt pretty even after the roaming freely.. Quick lunch and a power nap in the forest on my way to climb the pass. Barely any snow left (dozens meters on the other side, actually nice to walk on and some footprints of huelmut I believe). I can feel my body is in dire need of calories after these 6 weeks and not having (way) too much food at once. The views after the pass were rewarding, among light rain and wind. The well defined trail through the forest is so enjoyable, what a contrast to many GPT sections! I arrived around 5pm at the Bosque camping and met... no one. What a different experience, I can't complain about the crowds! Hiking during the week with rainy (not stormy) weather is probably the answer for loneliness. At 7pm I went across the forest towards the moraine (a few min walk) and then walked to the Laguna. Pretty nice view, despite cloudy summits and the fierce wind & rain cocktail in my face. Hanged my food in the rainy night, although I haven't seen any mice (only cute colourful birds coming by).

Day 7
An enjoyable long night under singing rain. Very chill day: I took it easy and waited for the rain to stop before getting started, i.e. early afternoon. I left at ~4pm and hiked up to the informal campsites right before the lake. I was planning to go all the way to Camping Neozelandés but watching the Cerro Castillo glaciers I could not resist having a closer look up there. I left my backpack and climbed NW through the boulder field, all the way up to the pass/plateau (-46.07005, -72.19438). Demanding short hike (1km, 400-500m) but the rocky terrain was actually holding well (no scrambling). Incredible views up there on both sides, and the glacier right below Cerro Castillo. I climbed a bit higher up (-46.06911, -72.19559) and spent 2h admiring the mountains with dancing clouds and the sun finally shining. I saw 2-3 spots that may work as mountaineering campsite sites (given a good weather window for the night and morning). Camped at (-46.07268, -72.18411), just along the path but protected from the wind.

Day 8
5cm snow Opened for sunriseAmazingWind and blowing snow on way upStopped on the way to the path and admire the landscape, light and snow for like 1hSnow melted within a few hoursDown to exit the park, met my first humans within 4days in the last 30mn. Left by the river following it, crossing the road until I could inflate the packraft. Still tight water levels I touched the ground several times. But made it to Rio Ibáñez.Super fast, 6km/h flow plus strong tailwinds (over 60km/h?). Topped 10km/h with my single open packraft! Exited as indicated on track files and walked to town, Nordic Patagonia, 10k CLP per person. Garden camping. Friendly, hit showers, WiFi proximity. But street noises and lights are quite annoying after being in the nature...

* '''2026-01-10 to 2026-01-12 / 3 Days / Hiking / SOBO / 02 + RR + E + F / Michel & Lisa'''

'''Note''': Option E is no longer passable since the land owner doesn't allow people to go through the land. If you want to go down from the ridge to the valley you'll have to use the now official trail that goes further west (visible on OSM maps).

Day 1

We took one of the 8:00 buses from Coyhaique towards Villa Cerro Castillo from the bus terminal and were dropped off at Las Horquetas at about 9:30. Had breakfast, lost a nice titanium spork in the process and started hiking at 10:00. The beginning is all MR but quite nice. There were quite a few river crossings after the first few km, depending on your preferences you might opt to hike in your water shoes if you carry any (we chose not to but in hindsight it may have been less rhythm-breaking to do so). Anyhow, the path is very clear and at some point develops into more of a trail. Plenty of water along the way, no need to carry much. At least at this time of year. We hiked to the first camping Río Turbio ([-46.00821, -72.10414]) which had quite a few tents but didn't feel crowded. Mice could be seen running around, we hung all our food just to be sure. We did the hike to the Lagoon (Glaciar Peñon; Option E), which took 45 min to get to the lagoon (we didn't go further and hiked quite fast). Very pretty up there, worth the extra trip if you have the time/energy.

Day 2

Started hiking at 9:00, starting through the forest and up the pass where there was luckily hardly any wind but still some hard snowfields. We took a break shortly after the pass but in hindsight should've continued to about here: [-46.04032, -72.13635] because there you get a great view over the valley beneath.
We continued to the next camping El Bosque. It's very sheltered but also kinda dark here, even though the river is close. Traces of mice here too, which is unfortunate but as expected; we hung all our food again). Thanks to the people who suggested to hike to the end of the camp (coming from the east). It's a great tip if you prefer some privacy, since most hikers just stop at the sight of the first campsites. But if you continue 100 m after the start of the campsite (coming from the east) you'll get to a smaller second section where you'll be more to yourself. We hiked to the small lagoon (trail indicated on OSM) which is well worth the trip. Only about 20 min hiking and it's amazing up there - great views of the remnants of the glacier, the mountains and the lagoon. We even went for a swim (yes, brrrr, but we brought food and our stove to make tea afterwards B⁠-⁠) ). We agree that this could/should be a GPT option, but of course people will find it on the OSM maps anyways.

Day 3

We started at 9:30 and got up to the viewpoint of Cerro Castillo quite soon though we took many breaks to take pictures - including some of baby geese (what are they doing up there?? Haha). The views from up there are great, making up for the fact that you have to share your space with day hikers who come from the village.
Then came the long, crowded, dusty descent. The ground is composed of very fine dust in many places that is stirred by everyone who walks on it and dispersed by the wind. Afterwards, I could pour it out of my shoes. Get ready to clean your stuff. ;-) We wanted to take Variant F to descend to the village which is much faster than the official route which goes further west (which means you have to backtrack on the MR down in the valley - not a good deal we thought). However, there is a little wall of stones blocking it, indicating that this trail is no longer used. We told each other that we didn't see it and continued on the trail. It is very easy to follow and in the upper parts also very sandy. Lots of feline footprints on the path, a puma maybe?
At some point further down in the valley there were some laminated sheets of paper announcing that this was not an official trail to enter PN Cerro Castillo and that anyone using it would be turned around in 5 km at some station. However, we hadn't encountered anyone on the trail, though we did see something that looked like a puesto no longer used. We continued on the trail and found the way out through a private property that had some "no trespassing" signs and we had to climb a locked gate. It seems someone was tired of all the foot traffic through their private land or something. So we think options F and G should be deleted from the GPT tracks since they seemingly cross private land where the land owners don't want people to go. A new option should follow the official trail (visible on OSM) that turns south here: [-46.08724, -72.17281].

'''2026-01-08 to 2026-01-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + RR + F / Chris & Lotte'''

Pretty route, a bit touristic. Hoards of mice. Currently visibly dryer than usual.

Day 1: took a bus from Opec station (buses lucas) at 7:45 to ibanez and exited at las horquettas. followed the official Las Horquetas trail. Campsites look nice, full of mice. We camped at shortly before Laguna Glaciar Penon. No mice presence visible in this rocky terrain. Water is plenty.

Day 2: Continued back to and along RR. Water plenty. Shortly before Camp 50.5 we drank some water. Lotte seemingly got food poisoning... shortly after she vomited and was dizzy. We set up camp in 50.5, next day all good.
The stream we took from didnt look bad, in hindsight we'd still choose to drink from it, there were no obvious no-no's we ignored. My stomach was fine. Use this info for your personal decision.
Very pretty view and nicely sheltered from the wind.

Day3: chose easier Variant F to not have to hitchhike to cerro castillo. Not as mice-y day, but quite touristy. This seems to partially be flooded by day tourists. Although the variant leaves that into a deserted trail, leading through private property and skipping the toll.
ATM in cerro castillo is out if order.
ATM in Balmaceda (suprisingly good rate) works. No gas in Balmaceda though!

Mice: they are frequently present. Last week was a confirmed case of hunter virus in the region Cerro Castillo, five in the "bigger region".
We saw at least five dead mice on the trail. Precautions should be taken seriously.

'''2026-01-05 to 2026-01-07/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, Variant E/ RR/ Option 3/ RR/ Greg Carter'''

Only a few things to add to Dave and Siyuan’s log of their trip on 21-25 December 2025.

Overall
The mountains were stunning, worth paying the price of admission (CLP 35,000), and putting up with mice, tourists, tábanos.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1
I started from Villa Cerro Castillo (Nordic Patagonia has a nice campground, cost CLP 10,000 pp: -46.12121, -72.15896), and took a local bus to Las Horquetas for CLP 8,000. There was an unmanned Ranger station with a book for voluntary registration, which I completed. I was going to camp at Rio Turbio/ Segundo camping, but I arrived early afternoon and the tábanos were oppressive, so I kept hiking.

(Generally in the forest, throughout the hike the tábanos were bad, so I recommend you bring a headnet, and be prepared to swat/ kill a lot of them.)

I hiked up Variant E, to Laguna Glacier Peñon, which was very picturesque and well worthwhile. There are also some good camping spots up there.

In the late afternoon, as the weather was good I went over the pass, which had some snow fields on the top (I walked on them with no micro-spikes required). There are wonderful views to the east, and the western side of the pass (which is steep with some fixed ropes), has beautiful views of numerous waterfalls coming off the mountain.

I camped before Camping El Bosque, at Camp {32} [48.0/939], which has some good, slightly sloping sites.

Day 2
Upon reaching Camping El Bosque I took the side trail west (OSM), up to the laguna/ glacier viewpoint, which was well worthwhile.I recommend that this become a new variant.

Before going up I stashed my backpack off the trail. On returning I found that mice had eaten through the mesh of a side pocket to try to get into a plastic jar of peanut butter. A big reminder to hang all food around GPT32!

Upon leaving Camping El Bosque there is a CONAF sign stating that you should cross Morro Negro before 12pm, due to it being an exposed rocky ridge, with strong wind gusts usually hitting after this time. If the conditions are not optimal CONAF states that you must descend via the Mirador Laguna trail and re-enter via Estero Parada.

The views at the Mirador Cerro Castillo were really stunning in perfect weather.

I continued over Morro Negro with little wind, and camped at Camping Neozelandés. The trail to this camp from Camping Porteadores has an easy gradient. Also there is more and better camping, and much nicer views in close proximity to the mountains. Plus it positions you well to hike to Laguna Duff the next day.

Day 3
I hiked up to Laguna Duff for the sunrise - the views were incredible, with a mirror reflection of the mountains.

I then hiked out, paid CLP 35,000 at the Ranger station, and was required to complete an electronic declaration that basically declared I was ok to hike what I had just hiked! Ridiculous bureaucracy. But at least CONAF provides free WiFi!

I got a lift back to Villa Cerro Castillo with some others in the back tray of a taxi cab (CLP 5,000). I’m glad I didn’t walk - it’s a very stony and boring road.

* '''2026-01-06 to 2026-01-07 / 2 days / Packrafting / EABO / RP + Option 09 / Daniel.s'''

A little packrafting on lagos Desierto, Azul and Paloma to make use of a low wind day.

Day 1: took the bus towards Lago Caro (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am, Sunday 3pm from bus terminal Coyhaique) and got off at the intersection (X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310]) and hiked to the put in for Lago Desierto. No mentionable difficulties. Crossed the lake with strong tailwind and very strong gusts. Take out was tricky, because the wind pushed me into the current of the river mouth. Hiked the portage to Lago Azul with inflated packraft. Wind on Lago Azul was even stronger, so I stayed put. Found a sort of windsheltered spot near the put in (half collapsed boat hut). During the evening the wind changed direction 180° for about one hour - very strange.

Day 2: Crossed Lago Azul in calm conditions, short upriver paddling against low speed current to get to Lago Paloma. Against expectations and wind forecast is had light headwind for the crossing, otherwise no difficulties. All the campsites in the track files seem very nice, too bad the wind stopped me early. Take out of Lago Paloma is a popular beach, got a lift right away.

'''2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 2 + D + RR + E + 3 / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 1: We got the 08:00 Cochrane bus on Sunday from Coyhaique, and arrived at the option 2 trailhead Las Horquetas at about 09:30. The trail was mostly wide enough to walk two abreast, and very well maintained. Three river crossings required getting wet feet but nothing above mid calf level. We camped after 15km at the Segundo Camping -46.00816, -72.10431. Epic views of the mountains for the last 1km.

Day 2: The trail was a little more rugged today, but always easily followed and signposted where not. We took option E before the pass, which was well worth it. The pass had snow (about the top 30 minutes of hiking) which was compacted and easy to walk on without post holing. We camped at Camping El Bosque -46.06418, -72.16919 which was a very nice spot. The side trek just north of the camp is much recommended with epic views and only a 20 minute hike from camp.

Day 3: Tough climb up to the pass on steep loose rock. When you pass the lake, make sure you follow the left hand trail via -46.07673, -72.18537. We stayed on the right hand trail closer to the lake and ended up climbing up very steep scree to rejoin later. The pass was very windy when we crossed, but didn’t have any particularly treacherous falls if you were blown over, so we felt comfortable with ~60km/h gusts. We left camp at 09:30 and reached the pass at about midday, which was later than ideal. The route was well signposted with yellow markers. The down climb was steep but had fixed ropes in the most dangerous parts. As soon as we reached the tree line the wind subsided. We camped at the excellent Area Camping Porteadores -46.08874, -72.23553 with flush toilets and running water.

Day 4: We hiked Option 3 to Laguna Duff. We planned to leave the tent at Camping Neozelandés and camp there, but we made such good time that we continued all the way back to the lake and back to Area Camping Porteadores in 4.5 hours. Below the treeline there is a perfect single track trail. Once you’re in the alpine area the trail is much like the pass yesterday with moraine rocks, but not as steep. Laguna Duff is spectacular!

Day 6: Simple walk down from the camp site to the dirt road to town. We were charged $35k CLP per person on exit from the park at the rangers station (-46.11819, -72.21799). We hitched a lift on the dirt road back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

*'''2025-12-18 to 2025-12-20/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Opt 2+RR + Opt 3 + RR/Tomas Martinec'''

I did the option starting in Las Horquetas. Officially, the trek is recommended to be done in 4 days, but I don't think it is a big problem to complete it in 3 days if the weather cooperates.

Generally: There are a lot of mice everywhere. I always hunged my food and luckily hadn't any issue.

Day 1
I started in Las Horquetas and finished at the camp El Bosque, combining the first two recommended sections into one day.

First section until Rio Turbio is a comfortable walk overall. There are many river crossings, but all were below knee level.

Second section from Rio Turbio to El Bosque, this includes a climb to the pass. The second part of this ascent is open, rocky terrain. I ocasionally lost the trail, but it is generally quite well marked. At the top of the pass, there was still snow, so I had to cross the snowy terrain for about 15 mins.

Day 2

I slept at El Bosque and hiked directly to the lagoon and Cerro Castillo. As before, the climb and pass are mostly open rocky terrain.

For my second night, I continued to Camp Neozelandes, which has fewer people than Los Porteadores and it is closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 3
I hiked to Laguna Duff - another beautiful spot - and then descended back to Caseta Estero Patada.I paid 35 000 CLP for 3 days (the same price as for 4 days). From Caseta Estero Patada, there is about a 5km walk to Villa Cerro Castillo or you can hitchhike as there are enough cars passing by.

Generally, it is a nice trek with beautiful highlight spots. At the same time, it feels quite regulated compared to more remote hikes, which may or may not suit everyone.

'''2025-Dec-8 to 2025-Dec-11 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt2, D, RR, E, 3 / Emily & Kole'''

Beautiful route through forest and glacial valleys. More crowded with hikers but trails and campsites weren’t overrun. Trail well maintained, easy walking. We took 3N/4D to maximise a good weather window, but RR plus Variant 2 (Los Horquetas trail) could easily be condensed to 1N/2D. Attractiveness 4/5, difficulty 2/5 (w/ Opt2).

Day 1
* Caught the Cochrane to Coyhaique bus to the Los Horquetas trailhead. Started Variant 2 at 1.30pm.
* Spoke with ranger at -45.97772, -71.96298 who gave an overview of the hike. You can buy your park pass online or pay upon departure.
* Trail is very easy walking. A couple of fords, though all below the knee (165cm) and not strong.
* Camped at Rio Turbio (-46.00849, -72.10397). Perhaps 10 other hikers there but a large campground, plenty of space. Well sheltered, picnic tables. Mice everywhere! We hung our food.

Day 2
* Took option E to see laguna glacier peñón - easy detour with good views, would recommend.
* Some snow at the top of Paso Penon, but mostly hard; no spikes needed.
* Gravel/dirt quite loose in places on the descent from the pass, but easy to navigate when sticking to trail. Some ropes to assist descent if needed.
* Camped at El Bosque (-46.06415, -72.16944) for a short day, no visible mice but hung out food.
* Took the OSM north of camp to Laguna/Glacier (not in Gpx files). Short and easy climb following cairns. Better views and laguna than Opt-N, highly recommend.

Day 3
* After crossing the outlet of Laguna Castillo/at the weather station, start making your way upwards. Can start to ascend at any point, however following these markers puts you on a clearer trail.
* Winds are very strong at the pass plateau and when descending. Descent itself isn’t difficult, but can be more time-consuming with wind gusts.
* Took Option 3 to Laguna Duff. Easy climb, beautiful views of Laguna. Ranger informed us Camp neozelandés {32-03} [3.6/1156] is more exposed, but it’s still in the forest/a good sheltered option.
* We camped at Portedaores {32} [56.6/890]. Em fell asleep with her food and awoke to a tennis-ball hole chewed through her tent. Hang your food!

Day 4
* Had to sign a declaration/emergency contact form upon leaving park at rangers station. Paid 35.000CLP pp for 3+ days in park (honour system).
* Stayed at Turismo Al Galope, 10.000clp for camping. Nice indoor space with wifi, but BYO toilet paper, soap, and gas for cooking.

*2025-Dec-05 to 2025-Dec-11 / 7(6) Days / Hiking / SOBO RR,OPT 01,02,D,RR / Massa and Jacicek

Day 1

Started in Villa Frei, we took Uber for 18k CLP, as we missed the bus from Coyhaique. The driver didn’t believe at first where we want to drop off. Went in the direction of Lago La Paloma, the route was quite busy (it was Friday) and multiple people offered us a lift. We considered taking OH 32-05, however on the gate there is prohibition sign and multiple cars were going to and from the property. We decided to take 32-N and camp early (on the right just after the first gate on 32-N (gate open).

Day 2

Climb up was ok, trail is recognizable, we needed to climb through 3 fences (other had gates open or were broken down). We met a black cow with calf at the old farm. Then we took OH 32-01. The trail runs through beautiful forests and we found several trees with Quiñoto mushrooms (nice smell, but seemed over mature). Then approximately after the km 5.6 (or as Julien writes km 6) the trail mostly disappears. There are fallen trees everywhere and new young trees just high enough to obscure the path. This took us whole afternoon and was very demanding. We finally reached the Rio Blanco and camped there.

Day 3

Rest day – hiked few km, forced Rio Blanco and camped once again alongside it ca 2km before Las Horquetas (in the few trees downhill from the old barn).

Day 4

Forded Rio Blanco again near the parking at Las Horquetas entry. The trail is open. Guards recommended to make the trip in 4 days. According to their information the 32F is closed, but 32G appears to be open. The ranger hut at 32D was unmanned. We reached Camp Rio Turbio and stayed there.

Day 5

Climbed up to paso Peñon, which still had snow. The descend from paso is crowned by many waterfalls from melting ice. We stayed at El Bosque Campsite and made a walk to the viewpoint over the campsite. In the hindsight I would recommend to continue and stay at the closed Campsite just before Laguna Castillo If you are continuing to Morro Negro as you will start nearer the summit.

Day 6

On leaving the campsite we noticed small note from the park guards to pass Morro Negro before 12pm due to wind. We had reached the summit at ca 12.30 in strong wind. The descend from it is steep scree and in direct wind, take caution here. We camped at Porteadores.

Day 7

Went from Porteadores to Villa Cerro Castillo, payed 35 000 CLP pp for the park. Local worker offered us a lift for part of the final trip which we accepted.

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-24 to 2025-Mar-26/ 2.5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO RR, OH 2, OH3/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

On the 23th we arrived from GPT 33 in Villa Cerro Castillo. After resupplying we went to Las Horquetas by hitchhiking. We were lucky on that section to have a perfect wheather window: sunny, warm and with no wind. With wind the two main passes can be challenging. The second one is "forbiden" under strong wind (signs on the path). Overall that section us easy going as it is the well maintained ( and crowdy) las horquetas trail. There are a lot of signs on the trail, especially on alpine terrain. You don t need to check GPS However it is really scenic and there are some more alpine parts that we enjoyed a lot. Mojo negro is a must with the view on Cerro Castillo above the glacier and the view on the plain under us, on the Tores de Avellano, the tip of Campo Hielo Norte...

Camp1: camp el bosque ( OSM): lot of spots with tables, WC. No view and crowdy. It s better to continue higher, even to laguna cerro castillo.

Camp2: camp el neozélandes. Same but far less crowdy for us. There are spots just after the camp or at laguna duff ( but cold!)

Day1: First part is really easy going but not borring at all on MR. Then it goes up to the pass. Even at the end of the season we walked on snow patches at the pass. The descent is slightly more technical ( but there are tons of ropes if you feel uncomfortable).

Day2: We started by going to the lack above the camp (no name). 1h up and back. Then we followed RR. Lago cerro castillo and mojo negro are just magnificent. OH 3 to laguna duff was also nice and easy. We were there for sunset so without the crowd.

Day3: Back to Villa Cerro Castillo. The MR is a bit borring but not so long. We did not manage to catch a lift. We took a bus around 1 pm( Don Carlos) to go to Coyhaique.

* '''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-08 / 5 days / Packrafting and hiking/ NOBO / Option 6 / Tomáš&Natalie'''

Not important prelude: We were not going to do this. Several continuous days of rain were forecasted. We meant to take a ferry north from Puerto Chacabuco. However, there were protests and the road to Puerto Aysén was closed on Monday and the buses were cancelled. The first bus of the day at 13:45 only went a few km before Puerto Aysén, where the prostest were. We were supposed to walk through them and board another bus. Locals said that the ferry always leaves later than the schedulet 15:00 and we should make it. But when we reached the protests, somebody called the port and the ship sailed on time. Given we also left our tent poles in Cochrane and were arranging for them to be sent to Coyahaique by bus (thanks Thijmen!!) and then by post (from Coyhaique to Santiago) and that the forecast was improving somewhat, we took it as a sign to do this option which we have previously mulled, so we returned to Coyhaique instead of hunting the ferry by hitching to Puerto Cisnes, where it would be at 11PM. We cursed ourselves throughout when it was cold, rainy and flooded, but you only truly remember the good stuff later on, so now it feels good. We walked in drysuits 80 percent of the time. We would never want to hike in such rainy and windy cold weather without drysuits and drybags.

Overall, I think we are the first who have done this hike since it has been promoted from exploratory options. The GPS is correct. Hiking wise it is easy, possibly easier (less exposed, we had no issues doing it in the rain) than RR. Fords are much worse though, at least in rainy weather. Scenic-wise it is hard to compare, we had no views in the clouds. But I assume the RR is prettier. Here you will meet noone, if that is a huge bonus for you, this could be recommended. Or when denied entry on RR when going NOBO or if you have done RR previously. It is also obviously attractive for packrafters as it nicely connects to Rio Paloma/31P-01.

(The rapid under the bridge over Rio Ibanez at Cerro Castillo looked just like big waves (class III?) from the bridge, but do your own scouting, I saw it twice only for 5 seconds each, I just was surprised it did not look that bad.)

On Tuesday morning, we took a bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane and got out at Cerro Castillo, where we waited 4 hours for the bus from Cochrane that carried our poles. A gomeria here -46.12096, -72.16249 sharpened our machete very well and for free! When the poles arrived, we soon got a hitch to -46.13355, -72.41950. In the pouring rain and wind, we assembled the packraft and went 1 km down Rio Ibanez to option 10A. The river was flooded, all of the riverbed was under water. Luckily it was raining less then. Camped in the rain here: -46.11081, -72.40580. The cable car upstream is still there, no idea if it is functional though.

The trail up still exists, but it seems it had not been used this year, so it is not the fastest. Shortly after entering the forrest for the first time somewhere around -46.10651, -72.41083, there is a meadow with some bamboo where the other side of the trail is hard to find even with GPS, but it is there. The trail is good in the forrest, but in the open around -46.10263, -72.41470, it is somewhat overgrown, but not too bad, I did not use the machete. The option 06 is preferable to 06B. I think this is what "Mum, Sis and I" did. 06B is still a trail at least in its beginning and it was done by Jan and he did not seem to like the last BB climb (I talked to him). On our route, I would say the BB&CC should be more CC&BB&TL. First part is easy if steep descent in open terrain. Around here -46.09437, -72.42397, there was a trailhead. I however lost (not hitting "save" on new waypoints is a plague!) the exact coordinates, so look for it. The trail is maybe an animal trail and is steep, but it leads you down to a stream. Cross the stream here: -46.09371, -72.42521, where the animal (?) trail continues. Then keep to the ridge until you exit the forest. The forest is indeed quite open (the more the higher you are) and sometimes there is something that looks like a trail. Good camps with access to water would be -46.09088, -72.43224 and at the end of the BB&CC (not the one indicated in the files). This part took us maybe 2 or 3 hours, but we were slow. Camp without water possible here too: -46.09290, -72.42823. It was starting to rain when we reached the open terrain, so we put on drysuits. The meadows did not seem to be grazed and water was kind of everywhere. The traverse is however easy and not exposed. Safety-wise, we felt good even in the rain and medium visibility. It was not windy but we got cold (took us some time to get warm in the tent). The forest before our campsite somewhere around -46.05323, -72.47485 is very open - count no time penalty for walking there.

We had a late morning as it was still raining. When it stopped, we put on drysuits and went down the meadow and then it started to rain again. The meadow is being grazed and marshy and I do not think it ever gets really dry. Sometimes it seemed there is a bit of a trail in the forest on the west side, but we mostly walked on the meadow. Puesto del Avion stands, is semidry and kind of dirty. The trail after the meadow is well used and clear and muddy. The river was roaring (looked kayakable from high up, it is continuous rapids at least up to clas IV, but we obviously did not see all of it) and we avoided the first four fords that are close to each other by staying on the left side. This is doable, it takes a bit of time but the forest is open, just stay close to water. The ford 10.6 (-45.99676, -72.37790) was a clear nogo and initially we also tried to stay on the right. It went for a bit, but it gets steeper and steeper and cliffier and cliffier. We camped up there and tried to go further the next day, but turned back one third of the distance to the next ford. Traversing seems bad, but possibly crosing a sidestream here -45.99541, -72.37794, reaching above tree line here: -45.98498, -72.37741 and then going down -45.97970, -72.36782 might work, but the way down would be steep and it would possibly take a whole day, so you might just as well wait for the water to go down. In 12 hourse of no rain during the nightu, the water went down by about 15 cm at a narrow spot.

Back at the ford, it was still too strong. However, about 100m upstream (somewhere around -45.99786, -72.37877), where the locals' makeshift camp is, one can cross the river kneedeep where it is wider. First go in the middle, then about 50 m downstream and the cross to the other side and then along the river to the trail. The trail then goes under cliffs, the whole upper valley is quite pretty. The next ford 8.2 was also strong. Without backpack, I managed to cross it but a much better whitewaterless spot is about 60 m upstream in front of a big rock. The river was still strong, Natalie struggled a bit with it even with my help. It was mid-thighs and pushy in the middle. Having lost a lot of time on the fords and attempted traverse, we camped at -45.95672, -72.35307, behind a new gate. The trail from there continues at least to -45.94945, -72.36639, where it fords the river (easy). I did not explore more, but I wonder if it joins option 8 at a clearing and buildings here: -45.93527, -72.42878, as the corresponding pass seems low and there do not seem to be any sensible other destinations in this valley. Somebody with more time and food should explore more - try to reserve at least half a day for it! There was also abandoned puesto here: -45.95000, -72.36480.

Ford 4.9 did not go down overnight, it was under our ùknees. Natalie forded a bit upstream where it is more pushy but boulders and stones give you more grip. I had no issues crossing at the proper ford, where the riverbad is exposed rock. It is not flat and not too slippery though. The rest of the valley is easy and finally it was a sunny day without drysuits! Bridge 30.4 on Option 5 was standing, so that still waits for its first log. It was a sunny Saturday and there were several cars (fisher and tourists) at Bridge 31, so hitching from there seems feasible. There was also some traffic on the less minor road to Lago Caro. We however went down on Rio Paloma on 31-01P.

*'''2025-FEB-26 to 2025-FEB-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short but very diverse section with a variety of terrain, picturesque forests, and stunning views. The memory of clambering up steep slopes in the northern part of the stage and then gazing at the imposing, dominating Cerro Castillo (2675 m above sea level) to the south is etched deeply in our minds. The section passes through Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, which means there is an entry fee and camping is only allowed at designated sites (see below).

Challenges:
Exposed terrain and clambering at kilometers 28.3-30.0. Caution and slow progress are necessary here. It is impassable in bad weather. There is nothing too complicated on BB + CC at kilometers 38.1-38.7; the forest is relatively clear and there is a narrow trail in some places.

Fees:
At the time of our passage, the entry fee for Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo was (for foreigners per person) 18,000 CLP for one day, 24,000 CLP for two days, and 28,000 CLP for three or more days in the park. We paid 24,000 CLP each upon exiting the park (X {32} [60.6/316]) since we spent one night outside the park.

Bivouacing:
Camping within Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo is, according to information from the gatekeepers, only allowed at officially designated campsites marked in OSM map sources:

1) Segundo camping (-46.00818, -72.10410)
2) Camping El Bosque (-46.06429, -72.16909)
3) Camping Los Porteadores. (-46.08888, -72.23543)

We only used the last mentioned site as we chose the fastest route through the national park.

These campsites have designated spots for tents, wooden seating, and dry toilets. They were quite crowded in the evenings. Other campsites found in OSM sources or track files are not official and thus illegal.

Water:
Water is not a problem; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
In Villa Frei, we bought supplies for 2.5 days in a small shop with basic groceries, and we had a little left over. In the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, there is a well-stocked shop called Janito, and a bit further along is a stylish food truck made from an old bus.

'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option E, Option 3, Option F / Tyson'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas (BusCarolina). Was full on a Sunday, but a friendly worker at the station said I should insist, so I ended up standing in the back for the hour and half ride.

Day 1: Guard at the station gave the usual advice to hit the passes early to avoid the afternoon wind. Easy to follow trail, very scenic. Some wet cow trails at one point, but just following the river, so easy. A few ankle deep crossings. Went up to Laguna Penon (called Laguna El Turbio on some maps) in the afternoon. The wind and rain started up on the way. Made it up there to momentarily enjoy a whitecapped laguna and pelting rain.

Day 2: Crossed Pass Penon by 10:30 or so. One could easily do Horquetas to Camp Bosque in a day, weather permitting. Made it to Bosque by late lunch so went up to Laguna Tempano / unnamed glacier viewpoint. Got a half hour of sun up there before the wind turned it to white caps again. NOTE: there are a handful of campsites about 20 meters past the first main grouping that you hit. Everyone stopped at the first ones, while those stayed empty

Day 3: Late start but made it to Cerro Castillo by 11:30. Covered in clouds so waited about an hour to see if they would clear but more kept rolling in and wind picked up so I went on. About half way down the other side I look back to absolutely clear skies. Made it to camp Neozelandes (I recommend it over Porteadores) by maybe 4:30, set up camp. Up to Laguna Duff by 6ish, plenty of time to enjoy the remaining sun up there. At camp Porteadores, saw a hiker I met on day 1 with a bandage on her face. Her group of four had skipped over camp Turbio, so had crossed Castillo the day before. She described the wind as lifting her and another hiker up and dropping them on the ground. They scooted the whole way down to Porteadores on their backsides. Other hiker ended up with stitches in her leg (shout out to Marnie for some good looking backcountry sutures)

Day 4: Utterly clear day, couldn’t stand the thought of not seeing Cerro Castillo so hiked back up. Much easier to see the cairns and markers on the way up. People were just lounging up there without clouds or wind. Went down Option F, which was full of day hikers making the most of the cloudless day. NOTE the last half of option F goes onto private land now closed to the public. The rangers and physical maps will tell you to go half way down Option F and then take another trail going southwest. This is all well-beaten and impossible to miss. I actually completely missed the fork. Downside is that the trail spits you out further from the Villa. So if you can’t get a hitch (like me) then you’ve got another 5K to walk to town. Got charged the 28K pesos for 3+ days at the end.

'''25-02-17- 25-02-19/ 2,5 days / SOBO / OH02-RR-Var. E -RR-OH3-RR / Volker'''

Scenic, easy, short - nice section. Water everywhere, all river crossings dry feet. A highway for gpt standards.
Day 1: Bus (Don Carlos) from Coyhaique to Cochrane at 8 a.m., got out at Las Horquetas. Some hikers, but not overcrowded. Variant E to Laguna Turbia and the glacier recommended. There are several camp spots on the way to the Laguna and close to it.
Day 2: Started early, nobody on the easy and pittoresque way up and down the first pass. Crowds between El Bosque and the mirador, many day hikers. The scrambling up and down the 2nd pass probably isn‘t fun on a rainy and misty day. Lots of hikers at the Porteadores and Neozelandes campings. Again several camp spots on the way to the Laguna Duff and close to it.
Day 3: Short walk to Laguna Duff, very nice in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Met them (many dayhikers) on the way down. If you prefer to donate 28k to a charity instead of a Chilean state body - turn right at the sign „1km“ and walk along the river to the MR. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo from the parking 1,5km after the junction

* ''' 2025-FEV-13 > 15 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : pierriers, bush-bashing

Les 15 premiers km sont à l'image du GPT31. La vue est sympa mais la gravel road est ennuyeuse. J'ai marché 6 km puis on m'a emmené au lac La Paloma. Vraiment magnifique et populaire. Ensuite j'ai repris ma rando en revenant au km 15,5. Il y a un ford dès la sortie de la gravel road. La montée se fait bien, quelques clôtures à franchir mais la plupart ont été cassées par des randonneurs pour faciliter le passage. Il y a un ford au km 23,2, puis j'ai campé au km 23,6. Je suis allé au point de vue de la 32-C, ça vaut le détours. Il y a pas mal de cairns sur le sentier et on voit qu'il était très fréquenté par le passé. Mais ce n'est plus le cas et certains passages sont difficile. D'ailleurs le point le plus difficile est mal placé sur la trace GPS, la partie escalade se trouve au point 45.938328° S 72.086493° W. Au km 34, après le petit torrent, le sentier est envahi et j'ai beaucoup utilisé ma machette. J'ai perdu une guêtre dans la bataille. Après le km 35 le sentier est plutot dégagé. Au km 39 on rejoins les sentiers du parc et ils sont plutôt bien entretenus et très utilisés. Attention les camps aux km 48 et 50,5 sont fermés temporairement et deplacés au km 49. En passant devant le péage à la sortie du parc, j'ai dit que je venais de Lago La Paloma et ils m'ont laissé passer. J'ai essayé le stop sur les 6 km de gravel road mais sans succès.

'''2025-02-16 to 2025-02-19 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / optie 2, RR, option E, 3, nameless laguna / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* Hitchhiking to las Horquitsas took longer than expected (4 hours)
* I arrived at 15.30 and I was still allowed to enter. But you have to register otherwise the guard will run behind you (happened to me).
* At least 3 fjords on option 2 so sandals or something would be nice. I decided to get my trail runners wet but regretted it next cold morning putting on wet cold shoes and socks.
* The side trip to the lagunas are very beautiful go there! (leave your backpack down,)
* If you walk long days it's not busy in the park all the people gather at the camping sites and stop hiking at 15.00.
* Water: Easy everywhere except from Laguna Castillo to camp las porteadores has no water (3 hours walk).
* Camping: at official sites or if you like a camp with more scenery you can camp at Laguna Peñon and Laguna Castillo.

'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2p, Var f., RR / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the bus from Coyhaique at 9:00. It took about 1.5 hours, cost 10,000 clp each.
The trail from Los Horquetas was well maintained. There were a few small fords along the way.
Camped at Rio Tirbio with 10 more people.
We left our bags and went to Laguna peñon and back, about 2 hours detour. The trail to the lake is marked well. The Laguna was quiet small and had milky color from the melting glacier.

2nd day:
The accent to the pass and the descent were pleasant. A little after the pass a lot of little waterfalls from melting glacier- very beautiful!
We took a detour to the unnamed Laguna using Lilian's directions.
The CC to the lake is not marked but it wasn't hard to get there. Took us about half an hour to the lake. The laguna Had a tourquize color with brown on the outside to it.

We camped at El Bosque with tons of other tourists but there was room for everybody, and it was quite.
We left our bags and climbed to the unnamed lake. The trail was marked well. It took us about one hour up. The lake was larger then the last two. We heard cracking and falling sound on the way ( maybe falling glacier?)The weather was bad and we were wet and cold, so we hurried back down.

3rd day:
After a rainy night we started a rainy day.
There were glimpses of sun and we had a chance to see the fresh snow covered mountains around.
We decided not to climb to the pass because of the weather and took var f.
We didn't regret it because it started snowing and the wind was crazy.
On the way down we met a worried ranger who was going up to stop people from climbing the pass.
At ( -46.08730, -72.17282) we split from the gpx and walked down on a well maintained CONAF trail.
At (-46.067656,-072.119996) there's a CONAF cabin and we had to pay 28,000 clp each.
We hitchhiked the MR to the main road. There were a lot of tourists on this trail and it went pretty fast.

Took a bus back to coyhaique at 16:30.

'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH02, var D, RR, variant E. RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas in the morning to hike in on option 2, very easy.

Camped at Rio Turbio camp, saw a mouse here so hung our food.

Took variant E to Laguna Peñon route is marked with cairns. very quick and easy so worth the trip.

Pass 43.9km still has snow but is easily manageable.

Camped at El Bosque and took a side trip up to the unnamed Laguna above it. Really nice would definitely recommend it. The route isn't on the track files but is on OSM and is marked with cairns.

Pass 53.5km - no snow. Crazy windy for us.

Camp 56.6km - Camping Los Porteadores - busiest so far seems to get overnight hikers from Villa Cerro Castillo. Saw a mouse here too.

Took option 3 to Laguna Duff which is very beautiful. Met a ranger at the laguna who asked where we were camping.

Followed RR out, didn't see anyway to pay. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo. Camped at Nordic Patagonia for 9k

* '''2025 Jan 2nd to Jan 4th / 2.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2 & 3, RR, Var E / MiaimZelt'''

A very scenic route with good maintained trails and lots of watersources. All Campings are really nice: lots of flat spaces, sheltered from the wind, toilet, benches and access to water.

Day 1: Took the bus at 8 from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas. The trail from Las Horquetas is open again. Everybody has to register at the ranger kiosk. Really easy trail until Camp before the pass. Var E is beautiful and mostly hiking on a big field of rocks, marked with cairns. At pass Peñon there was still snow, but doable without microspikes. The way down is very steep. Slept at Camp El Bosque.

Day 2: Can really recommend to hike up to the nameless Laguna above El Bosque. Extremely scenic lake! Also Laguna Castillo is a real gem. Stretch of big boulders above the lake, up to the pass it gets easier. Was very warm up there and had no wind. Bring water from the lake, there is none until you reach the next Camp. Way down from the Pass is very steep with lots of scree. Hiked to Camp Neozelandes, pitched my tent and did a detour to the scenic Laguna Duff. On the way up i met a lady from the Conaf, asking where i want to sleep. Inside the NP you have to use the campgrounds.

Day 3: All the way down is very easy. Had to pay 28000 pesos for 3 days, price for chileans is only a little bit cheaper. Payment possible with card or cash. At -46.115013, -72.200497 there is an open gate with a sign "Bienvenido a Sendero Laguna Castillo". It's in OSM, but not part of the GPT-Tracks.

* '''2024 Dec 13th to Dec 17th / 5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2, RR, Var E, Var F, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really beautiful section with amazing views. The park is open but Las Horquetas remains closed, though many people are hiking it anyway. If not going over the final pass, Var F can be used to exit without paying though it possibly involves trespassing.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.00817, -72.10413 Camping Río Turbio (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, nice views, can have a lot of people there)

Night 2: same as Night 1

Night 3: -46.06419, -72.16915 Camping El Bosque (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, fewer spots than first camp site, very few are really flat)

Night 4: -46.07194, -72.18416 Camping La Tetera (technically closed campground, water access is a little way away, no really flat spots, poor wind protection, excellent views)

WATER:
Water was generally easy to find.

Day 01 - Dec 13th

We left Coyhaique around 10:30. There are buses that go that route, but we decided to hitch instead. We entered through the Opt 2 Las Horquetas route. It took us three hitches to get to the trailhead. The trailhead has a big sign that says the route is closed. I don't know if they plan to open it this season or not. At the very beginning there is an estero. There is a bridge to cross it, a little old but stable. Shortly after there is a park ranger kiosk, but it was unoccupied. Overall the trail is in good condition, easy to follow, but sometimes muddy. Beautiful views along the way. We were fortunate and had excellent weather. There are several unmarked fords in the first 16 km along Opt 2, all were easy, knee high at most. Water was generally easy to find. At the Rio Turbio campground there were around 25 other people there.

Day 02 - Dec 14th

We took Var E up to Laguna Glacier Peñón. It was a great side trip. The laguna is turquoise and the mountains surrounding it are very impressive. There were still snow fields on the way to the end of the track, so we didn't go all the way, but we got past the lake and to the other side. We saw two small avalanches while we were there. We also found a bird feather, we think from a condor, that was as long as my entire arm. We really enjoyed this side trip and recommend it. Water shoes could be helpful. We didn't have ours and it was possible without, but would have been easier and faster if we had had them. Important note, the whole route is essentially a field of small boulders. It does not require any scrambling, but it is slow going compared to the trail. We did this as an out-and-back and then returned to the Rio Turbio campground for a second night. One couple came around 22:00, but otherwise no one was there.

Day 03 - Dec 15th

We left camp around 10:00. We were ready for the Pass 43.9 and thought with only 10 km to go until Camping El Bosque we would be in camp early, but we were surprised at how challenging the day was. The first few kilometers up to the pass went fairly quickly. There was still snow on the pass, but it was at that stage where it is getting thin and you can't tell where you might fall through, so it was slow going checking our footing. The weather was great, full sun and warm, very little wind. Getting to the pass was slow but not too difficult. We stopped at the mirador for lunch and to watch the dozens of waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The descent was more challenging. It is very steep, and there was lots of scree on the way down. In one section CONAF installed a series of ropes bolted into the rocks to hold on to. Once at the bottom there was a boulder field and then a very nice forest. Amazing views of the mountains and glaciers. Camp 48.0 is a decommissioned camping area under recuperation. Camping El Bosque is at km 49.0. At Camping El Bosque there were two other couples there that night.

Day 04 - Dec 16th

From Camping El Bosque we took a side route up to see a lake. On Google Maps it is called Laguna Raimundo Vargas. It is not an optional on GPT, but it is visible on OSM. The lake is not visible on OSM, but it is on satellite, which is surprising because based on measurements using Gaia, it appears to be almost twice as big as Laguna Duff. The route up is marked by carens, but it is essentially CC across talus, about 1.3 km one way. The lake and the mountains are stunning. There were lots of ice floes on the lake. We sat for about 2 hours listening to the ice crack and watching avalanches fall. We highly recommend this detour if you have the time. Going in the evening might give a nicer light. We had lunch at Camping El Bosque and then hiked as far as Camping La Tetera, which is technically closed, and camped there for the night. Three other groups passed through and two other groups camped near us at La Tetera. It rained a bit in the evening.

Day 05 - Dec 17th

We got up very early with the plan to cross the last pass before the wind picked up. We headed up to the lookout over Laguna Castillo. About 300m of the ascent are a rock scramble which is challenging with a heavy backpack. At points we needed both hands to navigate the rocks. We were feeling exhausted from the previous days and decided not to attempt the final pass. There was no snow remaining on the final pass that we could see. We spent a few hours at the top. Lots and lots of other hikers were coming up or going through. The main trail down is very steep and had lots of loose rock on it. With heavy backpacks it was a challenge and really hard on the knees. It also took much longer than we anticipated. About two km down from the top CONAF had a tent stationed. Three guardaparques are camped there to check tickets on the way up and to radio down when people are leaving. They asked for our names. When we said we came from Las Horquetas they just said okay.
We took Var F and Var G to exit the park. Var F is clearly visible from above as you descend the main trail. The route is actually in excellent condition and is very easy to follow, however in the rain we suspect it would be very muddy. We opted to take Var G which breaks off of Var F and then rejoins it later. It goes through forest and woodland, very pretty and potentially campable in places. There were also a few places where we found water. About 2.8 km into Var F there is a sign facing downhill that says No Accesso CONAF. About 1.3 km before the road there was a gate we had to jump. 300m before the final gate we descended a hill and there were a couple buildings there. One was a baño for what looked like paid camp sites (there were picnic tables around) and one was probably a rental cabaña. We passed through two more gates that were open. At the road, the final gate was secured with a chain, but it was easy to open. On the fence outside the gate and on a second gate that was padlocked shut were two signs saying in English and Spanish “No Trespassing, Private Property”. There was also a small kiosk that looked like it could have been a ticket booth just outside the gate, but no one was in it. It is unclear if the no trespassing signs referred to the property we passed through or to a neighboring property. We didn't see anyone so we didn't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of if you leave along this route. Due to the clear no trespassing signs, the no access sign as you enter the park and the park guards near the top, I would only recommend using Var F to exit the park, not to enter it.

• * '''2024-Dec-05 to 2024-Dec-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / MR + Opt.N + Opt.M + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Start on main road very well for entry exit private fields.
Same for option N and M.
I had to take option 01 because I had bad weather... Option 01 is announced in TL but I think it would be better to validate it in TL+BB because I had BB on 6km with no path and many trees still on the path that I had to go around.
Also watch out for the Rio Blanco, where the final crossing is still mandatory, the current was quite strong despite being in December.
For the climb to Cerro Castillo from Villa Cerro Castillo I asked locals people, the passage by option F would no longer be possible because the owner of the field through which we could pass would have closed his ground to visitors. So I went through the main entrance (18000 pesos) with checkpoint entrance and when you go out, you will have my layout on the next edition of the GPT I think.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Var E/ Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: We got the public bus at 8am from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (600CLP) then started walking along the road towards Lago Monreal. Got a short hitch for about 5km, then walking again in light rain. Got a second hitch with a lovely couple who own a property right on Lago Monreal - they even had a key for the locked gate with cameras and drove us right up to the trailhead. As we started hiking up into the mountains the snow started to come down fairly heavily. Sheltered under a rock where some people must camp for lunch and was able to get water from a few sources along here. Stopped snowing so we took Var C, definitely recommend, amazing views over the lakes and would be an awesome spot to camp. Started on the sketchy traverse, problem for us was it was all under about half a metre of fresh snow, on top of a layer of very slippery ice. Luckily we wear hiking boots with deep tread so had fairly good grip even without microspikes. Hiking poles were lifesavers. Issues started with the descriptions of getting around the various gullies - they described using grass to climb up but for us everything was just white!!. Tom had a terrifying slip and slide 5m towards the cliff edge before arresting with his elbow and chin - his hiking poles had chosen this exact section to break so he was doing it without even poles. After this we backed down off the climb over the gully but in the end just had to go for it. I ended up carving steps out of the snow with my hands and packing the snow down so Tom could follow me up, and giving him one of my poles. If the snow hadn’t have been so fresh I think we would have had to turn around. I wish I could say it got better but as we started to head down into the valley we began to hit waist deep snow drifts. We were planning to camp here like others had but the snow was just too deep and we were worried about the cold so we decided to try to get over the pass and down into the forest for cover. Absolute battle wading through the snow, took turns breaking trail. Couldn’t see the river and unfortunately fell all the way through the snow and got my feet wet. Pass itself fairly easy to get over and then lots of shoe skiing down the other side. Dark fell as we got to the forest edge. Got confused by the GPX as it takes you right to the edge of a massive cliff - not great in the dark. Used other peoples notes and managed to find the trail on the other side of the river then just kept powering on until we found a clear spot on the old disused road at about (-45.98519,-72.10097). Collapsed into bed after a quick dinner at about 10pm - definitely the hardest day we’ve done on the whole GPT. Really wouldn’t recommend doing this section after heavy snow unless you have microspikes and probably an ice axe. Excellent navigation skills also a must due to lack of landmarks in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to frozen solid pants and shoes - it had dropped to -8 degrees overnight and was still -4 in the morning. After much smashing of our shoes and socks on rocks so we could put them on, we packed up the tent and headed off towards the tourist track. Passed Segundo camp, no one in sight. Finally thawing out when the sun came out. Took Var E up to the glacier - super long trip on rocky scree, worth going up to the lake but don’t go beyond like we did. Kept going along regular route after detour. Fair bit of snow on the pass, had to be very careful coming down as it was icy and windswept. Saw first glimpses of Cerro Castillo from behind. Camped at the old campsite just before El Bosque - still hadn’t seen anyone on the entire trail.

Day 3: Did the side trip up to the Laguna behind the El Bosque campsite. Headed up to the main Laguna Castillo and was nearly blown off our feet as we came over the ridge. Hid behind a boulder for lunch while we assessed whether to bail down the mountain or attempt the high pass in the winds. As we ate they seemed to die off slightly so we legged it up the mountain. Awesome views over Villa Cerro Castillo and we could see back to the Torres del Avellano. As we hit the top of the pass the wind started to pick up again. We had to hide behind boulders between gusts and then sprint to the next one to avoid being blown off the mountain. Tricky coming down the pass in the high winds as the scree was pretty loose and very exposed to the wind. Eventually made it down and to Porteadores. Decided to head up to Neozelandés so we could go up to Laguna Duff in the morning. A few people were camped here - first people we had seen on the trail!

Day 4: Plans to visit Laguna Duff were foiled as we woke up to heavy snow fall. Forecast was for even more snow so cut our losses and headed down. Visibility was terrible but passed several tour groups heading up the trail. Tried to avoid the park rangers but when we thought we were home free a guy in a Ute pulled us up as we were walking along the road towards Villa Cerro Castillo and asked where we were coming from. Took us back to the office and made us pay. Awesome section, snow and wind made it challenging but was great to have it all to ourselves until the last day.

* '''2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.

Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].

Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.

Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias'''
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.

Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.

Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.

* '''2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]

I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.

Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]

Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.

Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]

Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.

The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :

Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)

Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)

Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)

Resupply in Coyhaique:

I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.

If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.

Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.

Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.

Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.

They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.

Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.

Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.

RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.

Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.

Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.

Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.

Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.

Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.

Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.

Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."

"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."

Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.

Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.

After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.

Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.

I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.

After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.

Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.

The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.

The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.

Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.

When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.

When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.

Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.

I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.

National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.

Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.

I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.

Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.

Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.

Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.

I recorded this CC, will upload it later.

Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.

After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.

Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.

Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.

Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.

Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.

Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew'''

Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)

I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.

Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.

Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.

Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)

This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.

Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.

Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)

Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)

In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.

* '''10-Feb-2024 / Hiking / SOBO / 4 days / RR + Option B (attempted) / Ella & Cristopher'''
Day 1, we walked through the sections of private property without running into anyone, but met other local hikers a bit afterwards who said they have previously had problems with one of the landowners on the route we took, and that he has now installed cameras. Got to the section with the traverse and attempted to take Option B - definitely do not recommend this option. It took us about 2 hours to walk less than a mile on the super steep and loose dirt/skree. Multiple dangerous moments. Part of this option also seems to pass through dense forest which looked difficult to bushwhack, but we didn't make it that far before turning back as it was getting late with no end in sight. We camped right at the beginning of Option B, where there is a flatter patch and stream that you can walk down to. It was a good view, but we realized later that a better and equally beautiful place to camp would have been where the land plateaus a bit and there are multiple small streams, on the RR about a km after you pass the start of Option B. Day 2, we woke up to super windy and rainy conditions, and waited for it to clear until about 3 pm before starting the traverse. The RR turned out to be a relatively safer route than Option B, though we were still glad we waited for the bad weather to pass before attempting. Followed advice from Veronica at the difficult parts, which worked well for us. Definitely budget extra time for this stretch. Camped right after the traverse when it drops down to the river, which you follow to cross the first pass. The area doesn't get a lot of sun so it was really cold at night, but still a nice place to camp with flat spots and a river. Day 3, trail before uniting with the CONAF area was difficult to follow at points and slow because you are walking a lot on loose rocks. We were very confused when reaching a waterfall with no visible trail, but a few cairns about. Following advice from Will, we crossed the river just before the waterfall to go up the left side of the valley. Climb through the trees and then cross a few meters of steep loose dirt/skree, and you should be able to see where the trail then continues in the forest. Some bushwhacking after this but relatively easy to follow GPS track until linking with the CONAF Las Horquetas trail. Camped in El Bosque Camping which had a toilet but no water tap (though there is a river close by). Day 4, relatively easy and super beautiful walking all day. We took the RR all the way to the road, which does in fact avoid the CONAF checkpoint so we never had to pay. Ran into other hikers who said CONAF is only charging when you leave the park. Got very lucky with a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo, but I would not count on it and the road gets a lot of sun and I didn't see a water source. Bus from Villa Cerro Castillo leaves at 6 pm and goes to Coyhaique for 9.000.

Feb 2023 Frank
There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully where you climb out on grass (described by Veronica) there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline.

* '''2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie'''

We started around 1500 at Coyhaique and easily hitched to El Blanco. We hitched with three cars (last went to Lago Paloma) and walked about four km in between them along Lago Monreal to Variant M. The sign against hikers scared us and it was late (1930), so we camped nearby (100 m along the fence westward). We reread other reports and decided to go for it in the morning. We first tried to go along a fence lining a small cliff about 100 metres west of the road, but it is pointless and we found ourselves on the road after a few hundred metres. We did not meet anyone. It is easy to miss RR and start on option 1, keep an eye on the GPS. We met black cows at the same place as Stiina, but they just looked omniously at us.

As for the dangerous part, Tomáš ended up doing it three times as he dropped our tent poles from his backpack just before the start of the CC section. Unlike Nat (see below), he thinks the section is quite ok and he also found it quite scenic, especially the first part over the plateau. The annoying clambering is in fact only about two km long and can be done in about an hour if you know the way. It never felt dangerous to him, but he understands others see it differently. It is certainly more demanding than the average section of GPT. The description of Véronica is the best. The last obstacle (the boulder) is not entirely vertical (it feels like scrambling, not climbing), but you do need to use your hands and it is indeed exposed, down climbing NOBO is more awkward. On the other hand, it is only about seven metres distance (not elevation). We had sunny skies, in worse weather it would be a lot more annoying. The horseflies came back from the dead and died by the dozen under our merciless hands (Nat killed three accidentally just as she tied her hair back).

At the end of CC after the pass, the trailhead is invisible (45.9731564S, 72.1026797W). It starts in the trees immediately from the river, about 10 m above the start of the waterfall in between two landslide/avalanche bands. Will comments that the GPX trail is exact, but since we are used to the GPX being slightly off, we could not see it, I guess we should have just trusted the GPX. There is a cairn in the creek marking the entrance but it is unclear how long it will stay there. Once you reach the overgrown MR, after a hundred metres of easy BB, one can cut the first zigzag straight down through easily passable mature forest. Once down on the road, you can camp on it, it is not used by cars ever. Once you reach the CC at 60.9, do not ford but stay on that side of the river!

In the popular part of the hike, people concentrate at campings, but otherwise it does not feel too crowded (less than two dozen people met on the trails themselves per day). Until nine and from about five, you will meet almost nobody on the trails. The park is very attractive. There is good internet (Entel 4g) just before the pass at 53.5. From the other side, there is a sign saying the pass closes down in strong winds. Probably better to go there in the morning (weaker wind) or late (after six) in the afternoon (rangers have probably gone home) unless the weather is good. The sign where they turn people is probably at about 1250 altitude at roughly the treeline.

To avoid paying, Nat followed the RR and was succesfull (OSM is wrong, the official trail is to the east of the GPT in the last few hundred metres). Tomáš followed the easternmost OSM trail that leaves the RR at roughly 480 altitude. The trail is rather imaginary, but it is easy walking across meadows or rarely through open forest and across several fences. His efforts were probably pointless. Tomáš also wanted to cut the walk to Villa Cerro Castillo and forded Estero El Bosque, but it was equally pointless and involved several fences.

We found screwable gas cartridges in Villa Castillo at the supermarket "Villarica", the last supermarket on the corner of - Bernardo Higgins and Bernardo a Alessandro, I think. They said they have them sometimes. There was a blackout for five hours during our stay but locals said that is not so common.

Notes from Nat:

- When in Coyhaique be sure to enjoy the bread and pizza shop called; La Tranquera Pan y Pizza (just North of the main plaza). It has a great selection of sourdough breads/Rye/whole-wheat loafs, cookies, real coffee and tasty pizza slices. ALSO don't miss the dry good store; Envasadora Aysen (45.57016° S, 72.06883° W), the good veg shop here (45.57730° S, 72.07038° W) and then the Unimarc is actually pretty good.

- My views are prejudiced against the beginning of this route bcs I was sick and not in a good mood but my thoughts at the time were; "If you want to "enjoy" section 32 then take the Las Horquetas option". I really didn't like all the sidehilling and felt you wouldn't miss out on much if you started at Horquetas. Also don't do what I did and pack twice as much as you need bcs Coyhaique "might" be the last place with good food (however it was 3-5x better than villa Castillo).

- The first tricky part was annoying bcs it was hard to get an edge (not that there is any edge left in my shoes). It was easier to walk up it and gradually cross, all in all it didn't feel dangerous. The second tricky part did feel dangerous to me bcs I went too far climbers left of the grass staircase and ended up having to traverse the short, steep and featureless slope to get back on track, a fall seemed easy and with bad consequences. The rock scramble at the boulder did not worry me but I would not have climbed it if it was wet bcs there is a lot of algae-like material on it and some of the handholds were sloppy.

- I would be very curious if one could make a new route that went up to this lake here; -45.94848, -72.07320, and then down either here; -45.95505, -72.08753 or along the ridge to here; -45.96914, -72.08724. It would be more vertical and longer but with possibly less sidehilling...

- The glacier on Variant E (6km return, half of it moraine walking) is nice but not really worth it, the lake on the other hand is 100% worth the short walk (3km return, flat river rock waking).

- The lake just North of Camping Bosque is also worth it if you can avoid the crowds. Both this lake and Variant E lake are technically CC but "well traveled" and cairned.

- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites, I recommend it. I got into an argument with a CONAF officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of CONAF I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts west of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, it is CC, obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.

- We both had to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but many going in opposite direction (~9am)

* '''2024-Jan-28 to 2024-Jan-31 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villa Cerro Castillo - Villa Frei / RR + Option 3 + Variant C + Variant M/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was another fantastic section but we don't have much to add to what has already been written. But we would still like to point out a few points:

1) At the Segundo campsite (also called Rio Turbio), mice gnawed our tent and our dry bag containing the food. It would be best to hang your food from the trees if you are sleeping at this campsite.

2) The large rock at -45.938145, -72.086171 can be avoided by doing 10 m of bush bashing just below the rock. This passage is much more visible going NOBO but it is also possible to take it going SOBO.

3) The little detour to Variant C is definitely worth it. The view of Lago Paloma and Lago Azul is truly incredible.

4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.

* '''2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres

* '''From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel'''

Villa cerro castillo - entrance Estero Parada - Laguna Duff - Sendero las Horquetas - North part of NP (CC) - Lago Paloma - Villa Frei.

One of my favourite section so far ! I had amazing weather and I enjoyed so much this stretch, even with few people on the sendero las Horquetas in the NP (not crowded, but obviously more than the usual sections of the GPT).

Entrance fees for 3 days was 16,000 CLP for me. I had no control and have seen no guardaparque during my hike.

I walked all the way up to see Laguna Duff (OPT3) definitely worth it in my opinion. Wonderful view, with still some pieces of ices floating on the Laguna, the back of Cerro Castillo and the reflects on the water were amazing. Easy to go there, as there is a trail.

The second one (OPT3A) is more tricky, no trail, and a lot of rolling stones. Beautiful too and of course, no people at all (I slept there, without tent, just on a big rock, that was incredible).

Then go up to the pass, it was a crazy hot day, for the first time since I'm in Patagonia, I regretted that it wouldn't be a little bit windy aha.

Laguna cerro castillo Is amazing. Second pass were very nice too. Bi. I passed it early on the morning, had some snow part, doable, but as it was morning, it was icy on some parts, so I putted my crampons and that was perfect. (But doable without).

Then easy trail until the end of the public part of NP (just after Segundo camping). After that the cross country part begun. Follow an old trail of the NP, some bush bashing during the forest part, and have to check often the GPS. Then you have to deal with all the rocks until the first pass.

Go down on a nice valley, and go up to the second pass. Tricky part, as described previously, is the big rock. It's maybe easier to do it NOBO because you descent it, and don't face it, which can be scary. But going on the grass part is the best way. Then follow the tree level, deal with rolling stones, and everything is gonna be alright. The récompense will be the amazing view on Lago Paloma (don't miss the Mirador).

I took the variant M to avoid the right of way conflict. No trouble at all on this way. You have to pass threw some gates. The last one, near a kind of central hydroelectric is the biggest, with camera and sign do not enter. Few people seen after this gate, and they were all very gentle and nice !

Anyway, I really loved this stretch ! As it's summertime at this time, I met a lot of chilenos in the NP, so happy to see even very young chilenos explore their outstanding country !

You have to be prepared to face a looooot of rolling stones on this section, sometimes it's like dancing on rocks. Can I say that the rolling stones make this stretch rock'n'roll ? Probably not.

Better to wait for good conditions. I can't imagine this section on a rainy and windy day !

* '''2024-Jan- 11 to 2024-Jan-13/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ Start in Las Horquetas and later RR/ Paulina'''

I started in las Horquetas, it was open even if on Conaf website this section is still closed, apparently they don't really update). When I was there ( 10 AM) nobody at the gate, so no charges. Later in the park nobody never asked me to show the entrance ticket. The same at the exit gate, they just asked me to check out ( even if I did not check in).
At the beginning of Las Horquetas trail, some very easy river crossing. Almost no people, only a few hikers on the campsite.
On Pass 32 [43.9/1470] still some soft snow, but I could cross it safetly.

Be careful on the ridge around pass 32 [ 53.5/1679] on very windy days.
I did not see any water around camping Los Porteadores, except this last section, water was available everywhere.

Beautiful and very scenic section!

* '''2023-12-29 to 2024-01-01 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Variant D & M / Roman'''

Took a Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei for 17.000$. Got another lift by someone who life's there to this point: -45.8737, -72.04342. Joined via Variant M to the RR. Camped at Camp {32} [23.6/1010]. Good place you have to Ford 2 times before the Camp and 1 times directly after it. Here the -45.93357, -72.07606 Clambering in steep terrain starts and is very challenging also in combination with snow. Very steep literally climbing up there here: -45.938145, -72.086171 especially with a backpack. I needed to go very slow and cautious with 3 point technique. After that you can follow the GPS and the Kerns to this point -45.973087, -72.102771. From there a old abandoned road goes all the way to the point where the Trail( Variant D) merges with the Sendero de Chile Las Horquetas at: X {32-D} [1.0/920]. On the trial are some parts which are not perfectly visible but with GPS no problem. There are some fallen trees and quite a few small trees on the trail. I wouldn't consider it Bush Bashing (BB) because you can just raise your arms in front of your face and walk trough it. So IMHO no BB on the route. As soon as you are at X {32-D} [1.0/920] it's a "touristy trail" compared with the other GPT parts. Therefor the condition is excellent. Camped at Segundo Camping -46.008184, -72.104121. Next day camped at Camping Los Porteadores -46.089085, -72.235431. Snow was neither on Pass {32} [43.9/1470] or Pass {32} [53.5/1679] a problem. Next day hiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. Not a single car on the street towards it so needed to hike. The RR avoids the Entrance Cerro Castillo Park (Estero Parada) there is one gate before accessing the street where you can just hop over.

Overall: really nice section and quite relaxing to have such a easy trail (the beginning is challenging due to the rock scramble). It's the most touristy part (2 groups a 7 people) but absolutely woth it. Really enjoyed it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-12 / 6 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Variant D + Variant F / Tom Pieper'''
An Uber from Cohayique to Villa Simpson is about 9.000 Peso. From there I easily found rides to Lago Elizalde. A older man told me that there was also a camino from Lago Elizalde to Lago Azul passing cerro sombrero a couple of years ago. I really liked the walking through the valley to lago desierto. It passes a beautiful farmland landscape sprinkled with little lush patches of forest and creeks. Camping is easy there. But if you want to speed up there are also cars from time to time and hitchhiking is possible. At S 45° 52.495 W 072° 16.913 is a little shelter surrounded by some old tractors and a big mate cup installation. A farmer passing by told me I am welcome to stay there. To reach lago desierto you have to climb a locked gate (well described by Kara Davis). I crossed lago desierto and camped at the isthmus between it and lago azul. There is a nice camp spot at waypoint Lake {32} [38.3/337] surrounded by old gooseberry bushes and an abandoned van. The central lodging building is collapsed so its seems to be an abandoned place now except the cattle. Next day I crossed lago azul. The wind increased dramatically forming up to 1 m waves. There are some emergency exits on the left even after the shore gets steeper after the settlers on the lefthand side. At the end of lago azul you reach a huge private hacienda on the isthmus, with a big park like forest and buildings within. I tried to sneak between the buildings but to reach the path to the mountains you finally have to pass a big meadow. There was a greenkeeper around and it was no problem for him to let me pass. The family was not around. The track to the mountains is steep and part of a big network of mountainbike trails. This network spans nearly the entire valley! I met six young chilenos who told me that they are working the summer to maintain the trails only for that family – I have never seen such a giant mountainbike network! Incredible how much effort and money must spend here only to satisfy a family’s hobby. The Chilenos were very friendly and even turned back to offer me a ride to the end of the valley as rain increased but I kept walking. This track is in really good conditions up to the bush bashing section. And here comes the problem: 1.) the bush bashing is wrong annotated. In reality it starts for 1.2 km at the end of the annotated section 2.) the track is mostly gone were it reaches the river bed. Landslides have washed away a big part. Don’t cross the landslide! It seems super instable! When you have forded the riverbed at the landslide don’t put on your shoes, yet. The following part has turned into swamp land. I suggest to make the entire 1.2 km in your fording footwear. After that the track to the las horquetas trail is mostly overgrown or blocked by trees but still visible. It was pretty hard for me as temperatures dropped to 4 °C and at this point it had not stopped raining for 48 hr. In bad weather that’s definitely no fun. The ranger hut was my salvation as it was abandoned but open and had a stove and even some firewood. The next day the weather was perfect and I continued towards cerro Castillo. There had been recent work around Camping Rio Turbio and the track is still in good condition. Paso Penón has heaps of snow and I found myself sinking to the hips from time to time. But in good weather it is ok. The views from the pass and the following valley even outcompeted the view from laguna castillo. After the paso penón the rest is fine. I used Variant F to descend. As mentioned before it now follows a different way in the end due to right of way conflict and you reach the street at approximately half way between villa cerro Castillo and the national park entrance.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''05-Apr-2023 / Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

We really enjoyed this one. It's definitely worth waiting for good weather, not only for safe traverse of the steep part in the northern part of the park and following obstacles that are quite demanding but also for the views that were just incredible.

Starting from Villa Frei in the late afternoon, we made it on that day to the turn before Lago La Paloma, where we camped right behind a fence, before a little river, that you need to cross to follow the RR. There are 2 settlements, but still far enough, so no problem. You have to cross one fence and a gate on the way up. To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side. Crossing them will take you directly to RR, so no bush-bashing is necessary. From there, the trail is pretty straightforward. We liked the view from Option B viewpoint and in good conditions it must be a perfect spot for camping, definitely doable in one day. The steep traverse didn't feel that dangerous for us, but we had really good conditions. The next obstacle, already described by others, is at the end of the traverse. We followed there a small ridge that will take you to the beginning of the grass parts. It's a little steep, but doable. From there we followed the grass parts, which create almost 'stairs' allowing you to climb up. It's again steep, but you can use your hands to pull yourself up, holding the grass patches. After that is the last challenging part, a rock that you need to climb over. We got there already after sunset and without an option to explore the best and safest way over, we decided to follow the old overgrown trail, that descends down without the need to climb over the rock. It seemed to be hard in the beginning, but after we got through the first few trees (without any leaves, just branches), we found a little strip without them, that takes you all the way down to the river, where we camped. It took us around 15 min to get down, so it might be a good alternative. From there you just need to walk through a little part of the forest and then continue by the river, so you are actually avoiding also the descent down, which some described as challenging as well.

After the first marked pass and descent in rocky terrain, the CC part connects to an old trail, that later becomes a MR. The connection was easy to find by following the GPS. We had no problems passing around the rangers house, again by following the track files, at first through the forest and later around the river. From there the trail connects to the official way which makes navigation easy. We spent the night in the official campsite around 2 km before Laguna Carro Castillo, which is the only one open. There were 5-6 other tents, no ranger. The next day the weather got way way worse, which made us skip the last pass and go down from the laguna via one of the official routes. We met a ranger on the way up, pointing us to the official trail around yellow cairns, to sign off from the park. With no intention to pay on our way from the park, we actually followed some old trail (according to the old signs we met) that took us to the main road, right in front of the bridge. We had to cross one fence, but no other problem. It's a faster and safe way from the park.

* '''5 to 7 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO / 3 days'''

Amazing section! I was worried about the tricky part, but sticking to the gpx track it didn't feel dangerous to me. Though I did have to leave the track to find easier ways around the cliffs.

There weren't any buses south out of Coyhaique on Sunday (except maybe early morning?). I ended up taking an Uber to villa frei, for a bearable 14000 pesos. The road walk was beautiful except for the wind trying to blow me into the cars. I caught a ride to Lago Monreal, from where I walked back up to variant L and then to the 23.6 campsite.

I didn't have any right of way trouble, I just had to pass through a few unlocked gates with no people or buildings in sight. There were even a few groups of day hikers who passed by my camp on the way to the Lago Paloma mirador (variant B - must see!).

I also took variant D up to the glacier lake, worth it if it fits your schedule. I didn't have time to keep going up to the glacier itself, it looked like steeper rocky cross country.

Even in the touristy parts the trail was surprisingly slow and rocky. I ran into a few rangers, who look like normal hikers except with red and white baseball hats. They were ok with me not having a ticket once I explained my weird route.

* '''15.02.23 -18.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO'''
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo

We hitchhiked from Coyhaique to Lago Paloma and started walking around 13:30 pm following the main path.

The trail at the beginning is pretty good. At the junction with the option at km 17,5 you can walk further uphill along the fence for a couple of meters to enter the fence through a gate. This option is not in the gpx files. We decided to follow that to avoid the settlers after all.Then you can follow the dirtroad through two more gates until you reach a fence that you have to jump to the right to get to a meadow with beehives. There is another gate there and then you reach the main route again. In total we only had to jump two fences.

Then we followed the main route. Soon after we went through the gate of the National park Cerro Castillo and we (unfortunately) met two guardians of the park. After some back and forth they made us turn around, telling us that this path is closed and we have to enter the park via the main entrance and pay the 30.000 clp. So we had to take the option to las Horquetas.

After a few good km on a dirtroad, the path of option 1 gets bad. It seems like it hasn't been used for a long time. It was often hard to find and involved some bushbashing. It took us quite some time to get through there. Once you are at the river it gets much better. We forded the river next to the entrance to avoid the detour until Horquetas. The option was not very nice. Mostly just walking in the forest with BB so we would definetly recommend to try the main route.

The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets. The park guardians tell you that there is no water crossing both passes and you have to carry it from the official camps, which is simply not true. There is only no water after Laguna Castillo.

At the exit (following the RR) we had to register us again. From there we planned to hitchhike to Villa Cerro Castillo, but there were no cars passing by. In the afternoon/evening it's probably easier to get a ride, because lots of cars parked at the exit. We would recommend Option E to avoid the dull roadwalk to Villa Cerro Castillo.

We stayed at Camping El Rincon, which was only 4.000 clp p.p., with no electricity, but the owner washed our clothes after we asked and we received it dry the next morning :)

* '''18 to 21 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT32 RR SOBO / 3.5 days'''

Route: Villa Freí - Lago La Paloma - north part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo - Las Horquetas trail (south part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo) - Villa Cerro Castillo
First off I want to say that I think this section deserves a 5 on the Attractiveness Scale. It is simply mind-blowingly beautiful and definitely on par with other sections further north that have a 5 on this scale. I also think the Difficulty Rating should be upped to a 5 as well, due to the technical, and arguably dangerous at times, section in the northern part of the park on the Regular Route. Wish I had someone with me during this stretch, but oh well, such is life.

I was lucky and caught a hitch most of the way to Lago La Paloma on the first day. It was hot and I don't think the road walk has any water sources until you get to the end. I then followed the new RR which bypasses the problematic right-of-way settler in the Lago Monreal area. However, this new detour is not fun. It involves climbing over (or crawling through/under) multiple barbed wire fences. I lost count after the 5th or 6th one. Also, the path and cross-country area are full of thorny plants, they got everywhere on my pack and clothing. I think it would just be better to take Option 32-L and chat with the settler instead to try and get through. Once you reach RH-MR-V {32} [18.9+4.7], it's all good, easy walking until the camp at 23.6 km.

I reccomend taking Option 32-A after the campsite instead of the CC straight through the cow pasture. It is wet and muddy, whereas 32-A remains dry and easy to follow in the forest at the edge of the meadow. I also strongly recommend taking the short detour to the mirador at the end of Option 32-B. The views there of the cliffs and mountains surrounding Lago La Paloma are incredible. You could even camp there if you brought sufficient water and the weather is calm.

Now for the difficult part in the 8-km cross-country section. This section was physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. The first pass is at S 45° 55.740', W 072° 04.501'. It is easy walking up past the treeline into the alpine up to this point. The first challenge is a steep and unstable scree traverse, which begins at S 45° 56.019', W 072° 04.567'. Follow the GPS tracks here. At first I tried to go lower, right along the treeline, which was a big mistake that got me stuck in a terrible gully of slippery hard-packed sand. Very treacherous and scary trying to traverse it on all fours. After that ordeal, I scrambled back up to the altitude of the GPS tracks. This first scree traverse lasts about a km, the rocks are loose and it is very steep. I was tense and went very slowly. Got harassed by tábanos the whole way, but at least the weather was good.

Then at S 45° 56.288', W 072° 05.184', you reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side. Figuring out how to get up that cliff was hard for me. I left my pack at the bottom and tried climbing up various different ways with no success, only tiring myself out and getting myself in precarious situations where I could barely climb back down. I finally figured out the best way was to try and get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully.

The next big obstacle is at S 45° 56.320', W 072° 05.446'. Like others have written, this is the vertical rock wall that spans up and down the mountain and that you have to climb over. I scouted ways up without my pack at first, trying to find the easiest way. At least with this rock wall, the handholds and footholds are solid — no slippery gravel/sand/scree. But it does require actual rock climbing moves. If you fall you would likely tumble down the mountain, so please be very careful. A light backpack makes it relatively safer and easier.

On the other side of this wall, you can finally see where the trees end, and the lovely river you are supposed to climb down to reach. But there is still more scree to traverse here, and it is slow and unstable again. I tried taking a shortcut down a shallow gully filled with grass. I figured it would be safer than the rocks, but it was very steep and got unexpectedly muddy at one point, and I ended up slipping and sliding down the mountainside about 10 meters before being able to stop myself. Didn't get seriously hurt, just bruised up, but it really shook me and just added to the stress and fear of this whole section. So I guess my advice here is to again follow the GPS tracks across the scree and go down gradually to the river instead of trying to go straight down.

Once you reach the riverbed, it is easy walking to the top of the pass, with occasional cairns (and some good swimming holes). Down the south side of the pass, there are still a couple scree sections, but not nearly as bad as before. Lots of boulders, so slow going, but at least they felt more solid.

As Martin Lizondo has written, finding the start of RH-MR-V {32} [34.1+1.7] is tricky. It is not a minor road, it is an old footpath. The cross-country section ends at a creek as it turns into a high and steep waterfall. You have to cross the creek and look up to find a faint, overgrown trail that goes up into the forest. Once you find it though, it is simple enough to follow. There is a stretch though of several hundred meters where it is more of a bushwhack than anything else, nature has taken over.

I followed the regular route that cuts through the forest to Río Turbío, I assume this is to avoid the ranger station nearby. The "bushbashing" section is easy through a mature forest, and then you just follow the bouldery riverbank.

Once you get to the popular Las Horquetas trail, everything is easy until the end of the section. Some snow at the top of the first pass (Paso Peñón), but very manageable. The views of the saw-toothed mountains, lakes, and glaciers are spectacular. Despite reports of the park being "overrun," I only met a handful of other hikers in this trail, and most of them after Laguna Castillo. No rangers at all.

I think the Regular Route in its current configuration avoids the blue payment tent at the end of the park trail, but I didn't know that when I passed through, and ended up just following the riverbank down to the minor road to be safe (and avoid paying the ridiculous 30,000 clp access fee). The road walk to Cerro Castillo was Easy and uneventful.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR SOBO / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

We started at Lago La Paloma, taking the bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (leaves at 8:15,15:30,17:30&19:30 from monday to friday and at 8:00 and 14:00 on saturday (no bus on sunday)). Then we hitchiked to the lake without problem and we camped there. Ready to start in the morning the next day.

Day 1 - Campamento Rio Turbio - 26.5km - +1800m/-1200m A big day but we hadnt the choice : heavy rain was announced for the next day... Cross country is demanding, better follow the tracks all the way long. A great camp site if you want to split this day is at the end of Option B. No water, windy but incredible view. The waypoint camp before is nice too.

Day 2 - Campamento El Bosque - 10km - +800m/-800m The 2 camps sites on the GPT at47.8 and at 50.3 are now forbidden. The new campsite is approx at km 49, in the middle. There is guardaparques, but no need to show the permit for us.

Day 3 - Cerro Castillo - 11km - +800m/-1500m The pass after Cerro Castillo was closed due to the wind. If you want to go to the other side, you have to get down at the park entrance and to go up again at the other entrance. We just went to the town. The regular route going down from there, from the Cerro Castillo, is not the one on the GPT. Actually, it goes more on the west side. At the end, there is a guardaparque, we checked out (even though we didn’t checked in) but no need to pay. Fortunately. Luck was with us.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR NOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

We've walked all section 32 from Villa Frei to Villa Cerro Castillo. The part from Lago Paloma to Rio Turbio is very difficult and might be even dangerous (especially in bad weather). The CC travers on the stones (in our case with strong wind and snow) was the hardest part. The MR leading down to the valley is partially overgrown. The second part is well marked with good camping possibilities. After heavy rains on Sunday 25th, the park has been closed for more than a week. There are 2 alerts on the road (see above).

* '''Feb 17 RR 3 days SOBO Frank'''

Walked from Villa Frei. After about 12KM there is a food truck next to the road. Owners live there so should open for you. The owner of the private land wasn't there so had no access issues. You can camp in a big meadow @ 1250 metres or in good weather at a pass @ about 1325 metres (not marked on track file) just before the difficult CC section begins. Followed Veronica's advice to get up the gully on grass which worked well, thanks Veronica. There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline. The second bypass is not very obvious but stay at the treeline & you will get through easily. After the pass, descending scree you come to a waterfall. Go left into the forest immediately before the waterfall - you may see a small cairn marking the spot. Just footprints at first but pick up a small trail as you go in. Leaving the park the RR to the left goes through private land. The optional route straight down is now the main trail, it goes down to a checkpoint just before the road. Checkpoint is at a stile over a fence so can't be avoided. It is run as a private 'concession' from CONAF. The workers were friendly & didn't charge me anything. However next year the concession will be run by a different company so depends who is there.

* ''' Note on Options 4, 7 and 8:'''
GPT32 Option 4: is the gravel road to Lago Elizalde and Lago el Desierto. A subsidized bus travels this route 2 or 3 times per week.
GPT32 Option 7 and 8: Are routes published on Wikiloc and/or www.suda.Io. This means someone took these routes in the last years but not much more information are available.
(Source Jan Dudeck: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1498106867361861/ )

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 05-07, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

We continued into this section straight from the previous one - 31H and the start of it, about first 16km, is like the whole previous section - dirt road. We hiked about 5 of those 16km and hitched the rest which I think was possible quite easy because it was weekend and a lot of cars with families were going to the Lago La Paloma.

The interesting part started once we were at the gate after crossing the outflow of Lago Monreal. The big sign was posted there stating that this is not some Sendero de Chile and that passing through here is strictly forbidden. We saw a guy at the gate when we were approaching, but as it was lunch time for us we stayed at the stream. Afterwards the guy was gone and there was no phone signal to call the nr. that Martin Lizondo has provided. After considering options of different routes we decided to keep it cool and climbed over the gate with fingers crossed. There were houses a few hundred meters up the road, but nobody seemed to be at home at that point, perhaps working in the field somewhere in the back, so we walked through the forbidden land without anyone intercepting, luck was with us. A few more gates later we climbed up into the forest and finally the Cerro Castillo National park with a big old welcoming sign. We stayed at the first marked campsite at 22,7km, there is a stream.

Next morning as we were having our breakfast about 30 cows showed up and were completely dazzled by our presence. They stared at us for about 15min until they finally relaxed a bit, but not fully. As we were packing our camp some sudden movement must have scared them and they all went running for their lives as if a Kraken himself was after them, silly cows, we thought. Once we were all packed and ready to go we crossed the stream into the next meadow, and saw all the cows about 200m to our left. I am not exactly sure how cows work, but as soon as they saw us they organized a gang and all of them started running right at us. We of course were standing our ground so the cows would stop just 5m from us and look all tough. I would try to scare them away by counter attack in the form of a shouting, hiking pole waving lunatic. It worked to some extent, as we could slowly walk out of it, but the cows kept persistently be really close and walk/run at us. I guess they were trying to protect their pasture, maybe someone can enlighten me about cow-dynamics.

After the great battle of 2022, we disappeared in the forest and enjoyed the nice forest path while it lasted. Once out of the three line the path disappeared so we more or less followed the GPS marking. Neither of our maps showed the mentioned old path descending down into the valley, it was actually matching with the GPS, more or less. Up to the first pass, which is not marked, but is at about 26,8km the cross country was easy and then as mentioned before it got pretty difficult. If it would just be steep scree slope it would be alright, but this one had hard packed sand under the scree or sometimes no scree on it so it was very slippery (in dry conditions). Lots of prayers went to the Gods of Friction which helped us with traversing the treacherous slopes, with plenty of chances to become a statistic. I don’t think that that traverse is possible in wet conditions, not without crampons. And as for every good cake there is always a cherry on top, which was a little rock climbing session, which I personally didn’t mind, but I am not sure other hikers would appreciate. After that we still had to descend a steep scree down to the river. If there is a potential trail or option to go down the valley after the pass and then follow the river bank up, I think it is definitely a better, faster and safer option, especially if weather is not favorable. And looking from above down the valley it seemed like a feasible option to follow the river as the river itself was easily crossable and we didn’t spot any cliffs there, maybe next time.

After reaching the river at the valley bottom the way up to the second pass was easy and straight forward, even though still “sin sendero”. The way down from the pass is steep and bouldery but not dangerous and after a short bit some first signs of an old trail can be noticed, some cairs appear. Then once the trail gets down to the tree line there are a few bushy places, but nothing too bad and the closer to the actual trail you get the better it becomes. We also somewhat followed the GPS track but stayed more in the forest rather than beach to avoid the ranger hut.

Once we made it to the Las Horquetas trail all our worries were behind us and we could enjoy the nice trail and magnificent views. I don’t think I have ever seen tree line ending almost at the edge of the glacier in Europe it was happening a century ago, pretty cool stuff. We camped at the “segundo camping” with many other hikers, none doing the GPT though. And an interesting thing we observed was that people would just drink straight from the silty glacier stream without filtering or treating their water at all. Observation was made of different groups of people at different campsites. Is that a Chilean thing? Very impressive gut, if they can do it, unless ignorance is a bliss or they knew something that we didn’t.

Nevertheless, two more mountain passes and we were heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo, with crowds of day-hikers that had come up to the Mirador Cerro Castillo. From there we actually didn’t follow the GPS track but headed down straight to the town. The ticket office with the park official is actually around this area: (46º 6.7520' S, 72º 12.0032' W). And the trail leading there is the official trail. The one that seemed on the map like the official, was actually not in use, not sure why. The satellite view on Gaia and info on the maps is somehow outdated. We tried to sneak past the office to avoid all explaining we had to do, but it’s kind of strategically placed so it wasn’t possible and we ended up just talking to the girl that was making sure everyone is checking out of the park. We had to pay 18.000 pesos per person which is the ticket for foreigners that want to go up to the mirador. We didn’t spill the beans about camping in the park and our small backpacks kept the suspicion low, so in the end it all worked out pretty good. From there it is still almost 5km to the town on a very dusty road, but with all the day hikers leaving a hitch was not a problem.

The town is really nice with plenty of shops and accommodations options. The only thing we didn’t manage to find was the threaded gas canister, but we found a few half-empty ones left in the Nordic Patagonia mess tent.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2021-Dec-18 to 2021-Dec-22 / Option 6 (Valle Balboa), Regular Route (Packrafting Lago Desierto and Lago Azul) and Option 9 (Packrafting Lago Paloma) / Northbound and Westbound / Meylin and Jan'''

General Remark:
This route provides an attractive alternative to the overrun Cerro Castillo trail. The popular Cerro Castillo trail is also highly regulated (obligatory camp sites, closed in suboptimal weather) and costly (27’000 CLP entrence fee) therefore this alternative should be considered by hikers and packrafters.
At the upper terminus of the Valle Balboa is a 5 km long and 400 m wide pasture at an altitude of 1100 m. To utilize this pasture for cattle summer grazing, settlers build a 18 km long trail through the forrest along the Rio Balboa.
This very scenic Valle Balboa trail was hiked and published on Wikiexplora by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn. But the southbound descent down to Rio Ibañez was made by climbing down with a rope in very steep terrain because the location of the descending trail was not yet documented.
Therefore we investigate this route in the opposite direction to search the southern trailhead to incorporate a feasible hiking traverse from Rio Balboa to Rio Ibanez in the GPT network.

Summary of Northbound Investigation:
Tobias Hellwig suggested where the southern trailhead may be located. A detailed analysis of satellite images and elevation profiles supported this and a local resident confirmed this assumption. After an hour of searching we found the southern trailhead. This trail terminates at a 400 m by 60 m pasture at abandoned camp (“Camp A”) from where no trail appears to continue.
To continue through the last section of forrest we bush-bashed through very steep terrain and continued trail-less through a rather open forrest until reaching open terrain (“Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez”). From this point we traversed the open terrain on a slightly higher route than recorded by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn and meet the previously recorded route at the descent into the Valle Balboa (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”).
From this point we followed closely the previously recorded route in the Valle Balboa from where we packrafted westbound over Lago Desierto, Lago Azul and Lago Paloma.

Recommendation for Southbound Hikers and Packrafters:
Hikers that wish to bypass the Cerro Castillo trail may either road-walk 25.5 km from Villa Frei via Lago Elizalde to Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 4) or take the bus from Coyhaique to Lago Caro and leave the bus just after the bridge over Rio Paloma.
Alternatively hikers may walk along the lakes Lago Paloma, Lago Azul and Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 5) but bypass the buildings at the trail start to avoid a right-of-way dispute (see yellow arrow on the image that first follows the beach of Lago Paloma and than sneakers in between some trees to the trail).
Packrafters best paddle the three lakes to get to Rio Balboa. Note that the predominant wind direction is westbound.
After reaching the western end of Lago Desierto hikers and packrafters closely follow the route of GPT32 Option 6. Note that the multiple river crossings of Rio Balboa may become impassable after heavy rain and are generally easier in the morning (due to snow and glacier melting water that reaches it maximum in the evening).
After reaching open terrain at Kilometer 24 (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”) hikers and packrafters traverse 5 km open terrain to the waypoint “Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez” while enjoying the wide open view into Valle Ibanez. Starting from Kilometer 24 do not follow any more track “EXP-OP-TL-V {32-06} [0.0+30.6]”.
After entering the rather open forrest best follow the 8 waypoints of “Proposed Improvement for Investigation”. This bush-bashing route probably avoids the very steep descent that we struggled to get up with our heavy packrafting gear. When reaching the trail (either “Record 1” or “Record 2”) follow the generally well-visible and well-maintained trail to “Exit Forrest Valle Ibanez”.
Note that that “Record 1” and “Record 2” includes all our searching, so don’t take these tracks as an instruction but use your common sense to follow only the relevant parts.
When reaching Rio Ibanez packrafters can float on the river towards Cerro Castillo while hikers must walk along the northern side of Rio Ibanez to Cerro Castillo.
As an add-on hikers and packrafters may take GPT32 Option 3 to visit a less frequented trail of Parque Cerro Castillo.

(Note: taken from here https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1256244101548140/ - now the options are part of the GPT Track files, the Facebook post includes pictures.)

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Section 32, Option 7: Valle Balboa. Southbound. 11 days (including waiting out a snow storm). Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.'''

After walking Section 35 we emerged in Cochrane to a world changed by the virus. We retreated to the now unfriendly Chili Chico and caught the ferry across to Ibáñez in the morning. For my mum and sister, getting back to Santiago to catch a flight home had been the priority, but on the way they shifted more to the stance I was taking: what was the point? Get stuck in Australia, or here? Patagonia didn't seem all that bad, and apart from facemasks and hand sanitiser, there were no shortages like back home. By the time we reached Coyhaique we'd all decided to stay a week or so to hatch a plan. We met up with Aldo and camped in his backyard for almost a week. I helped build his house a bit, but time was mostly filled with playing chess, dice, cards and guitar. The atmosphere seemed to encourage a lethargic state, blurring the days together and bending time. Finally however, we packed and walked into the town centre to make a start on the interesting option #007 of Section 32 through Valle Balboa, (traversing roughly from Lago Desierto to Río Ibáñez). With the virus and public transport on hold, it seemed unlikely the bus to Villa Freí (that we took last time for the RR of Section 32) would be running. We asked a taxi driver for a quote to drive us out. We grabbed some more supplies, and then caught a taxi with a much friendlier driver to Lago Elizalde ($15k). The driver showed us a great public camping spot on the shore of the lake. There were many established camp sites back from [close to] the beach. It was such a nice spot that we decided to lay back and spend the afternoon and night there.

In the morning, we walked the road to Río Paloma, scoring a lift for 5ks or so. We camped by the river not far before the end of the road.

In the morning we walked the last bit of the public road to where it ends at the very rickety bridge over Río Mogote. There is a nice little camping spot here (-45.91100, -72.31823). Climbing over the locked gate, we walked the private road to the ford. We tossed up visiting Lago Desierto and the people living next to it, but with the virus decided against it. This meant we didn't actually have to cross the river, instead locating the old road to the south. (The track files follow the road, but it is no longer used by vehicles and it is actually easier to head back down the main road a couple of hundred metres to where a cattle trail exists (-45.91601, -72.30806)).

Following this distinct road for some time, it seemed to be used for horse riding tours as there were coloured signs like "Spanglish" and "Toobooku" on the side. You will soon reach the gate included in the track files. Here there is also access to a bridge across Estero Balboa. It looks like you can then access trails most of the way up to Cerró Negro. This might be interesting if someone wants to explore.

A couple hundred metres after the gate the old road ends and an obvious trail continues to a miskept farmhouse. Continue along the well defined trail that gets a bit scrubby/overgrown before entering the forest. The trail is then very well maintained although quite muddy in spots (I could see it being quite bad after rain). You will need to ford a tributary not marked in the track files (-45.95592, -72.35114). Shortly afterwards is a junction (-45.95654, -72.35216). The route up the side valley could be explored if someone wants - we went only a short way to a corral. The track will dip back down to the river where there is an established camp (-45.97039, -72.35461). Continuing up the valley, there are many more established camps - the best are generally in close proximity to the fords.

The first time you cross the estero is about here: (-45.98105, -72.36205). There is only one ford, not two as the track files indicate. At the next couple of fords, the actual track deviates slightly from the track files. If you follow the current track files, you will avoid crossing the river at all, but will end up bush bashing briefly. We crossed the next two fords, but by staying on the west side of the river they should also be easily avoidable.

The trail exits the forest (-46.02116, -72.42538)(the camp marked in the track files here is a swamp - go further up the valley!) from where it is cross country walking, not actually a trail as indicated. We camped next to the puesto which incorporates some pieces of a crashed plane (we found another piece whist exploring, but not the actual crash site). The route up to the Laguna Campana is also open and straight forward.

We waited out a rainy day only to wake to a snow storm the next!... and the next!. We ended up waiting 4 nights experimenting with some different bread recipes whilst we waited out the inclement weather.

Finally a sunny day! Continue up the valley, CC walking past an old corral. At the Nacimiento del Estero Balboa you again briefly enter the trees. Like the previous marked camp, again this whole area was very swampy and I didn't see a suitable place to camp. The camp included in the track files is in the middle of a swamp! We picked up fragments of a track heading up through the trees, but I think it is very vague or overgrown. That said, we had nearly a foot of snow in places so we could have easily missed things! There is a very obvious section of track here : (-46.05648, -72.47298). You'll quickly exit the trees (-46.05923, -72.47005) and start a long CC section in the alpine. We found some sections of trail, but for us it was mostly cross country walking. Plenty of water options the whole way.

When you enter the forest after completing the alpine section (-46.08687, -72.43537), you will be bush bashing for a long time! There was no discernible track even when we criss-crossed over the track files searching for it (no snow here anymore). Approaching the deep gorge, I decided to lead us a different, less steep way. This worked well and we camped at a very nice spot by the stream at the bottom (-46.09414, -72.42582).

The next day we were debating simply following the river down (I wish we had!). Instead, we headed straight up the other side of the gorge. We located part of an old track here (-46.09685, -72.42463) but quickly lost it as we passed through the saddle (I think maybe it continues north?). Rejoining the suggested investigation route (EXP-OP-TL-I@32-07-#003), there is a good stream (-46.10202, -72.42403) and some camping on its banks.

After some horrible bush bashing, we finally made it to a ravine gashing steeply down the mountain (-46.10598, -72.41534). There were many drops and it was impossible to go directly down. We later found out that the only other party to do this part had a rope! I can't really recommend going down here [and my sister can't recommend it at all! - "This is shit!"] Again, I'd recommend taking the main valley. The climbs we did were much more difficult than those on the northern part of Section 32 RR that people complain about. Also, if doing this option, it would be much easier travelling north! You could also consult the settlers on a better route. We finally reached the bottom where it opens up after about ~6hrs!

Continuing, if you do follow EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, the track files indicate there is a trail, but it is not quite so. There are CC sections and a labyrinth of cattle trails. You will need to use them to your advantage where they exist, and leave them when they go the wrong way. We went this way for a little while, but then tried following a primary cattle track that seemed to be heading directly down to the river... but we got stopped by a swamp (-46.11623, -72.41080). Continuing along EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, you will get CC walking from the woods (after a cliff) about here: (-46.11546, -72.42372) If we were there again we would follow EXP-OP-CC-A@32-07-#004 down past the settler to the river. It then looked easy to walk along the river north to the cable car.

The cable car: Don't use this by yourself! Don't use it if you are only two! Use it with three people minimum! I can't stress this enough. There is a lot of fiction and the locals we talked to here don't even consider it safe. They used the boat which has its own steel cable allowing you to tack across with relative ease. You will get wet feet if using the boat.

Taking the cable car, we only just made it across with one in the car and two hauling on the rope, and at one point it looked like my sister might get stranded on the far side (she had a nightmare that night!).

Carretera Austral: We waited the entire day by the Carretera Austral. Finally catching a colectivo late in the afternoon. With the virus, it was hard/imposible to hitchhike. We paid an inflated price ($3kpp) for transport to Cerró Castillo.

* '''2020-March-6 / Ty & America / 4.5 Days SOBO RR. Start @ El Blanco'''

We started in El Blanco, opting to hike by Lago Montreal, which was pretty nice. No traffic though, so if you’re wanting a hitch the regular start in Villa freí may be a better option. Settlers in Lago Montreal are super friendly. There’s a bit of water there as you pass by the lake. We camped there. I recommend going further to the marked camp though because the next day is a big challenge. RH-CC-A@32-25.2+7.9 Is the Cruz of the section. After this all good. I do not recommend doing this unless you’re very comfortable on your feet and have a lightweight pack.

-stick to the treeline/marked path on this. The traversing is tough, but completely doable. 2-3 km in is the gully with the very difficult climb. Keep the the grassy patch, getting to the base of it was the most dangerous part for us. Very slippery rock. I had America drop her pack. High risk, but I was MUCH more comfortable.

-about a k after is the second dangerous area. This is a straight rock wall that spans all the way up& down the mountain. The only way through is to climb around. I checked below it and didn’t find a way through the trees. I took both Sanita & America’s packs through this section; as again, it’s very high risk..with an actual climbing move involved. Again, it’s important you’re very comfortable with your pack to get through these parts.

After these dangerous sections we were wiped out and camped in the valley before the pass. Lots of places to camp with good water. Be aware of slight rockfall risk. There’s an amazing place to camp with ideal conditions at the top of the pass.

Going on, all smooth, both marked camps on the way up the second pass are actually closed...there’s an open camp right between the two.

Amazing places to camp up by Laguna Castillo.

We snuck around the riverbed once we saw the blue tent at the bottom (where you might have to pay) and got by with no problems.

* '''Jan 2020 GPT32 South 7days / Felix'''

Coyhaique to Villa Freí: There is a bus from the bus terminal in Coyhaique to Villa Freí. From there it was a hot dusty road.

Accessing the park : You have to pass through 4 private properties to enter the first sector of the park. We met some people. Had short friendly chats, but no problems with access. Just before you enter the park (where there are two trail options) there is easy access to the river via a cow trail. However water in general was no issue and I didn't carry water for the entire 7 days through the park.

The camp site used to be an official campsite before the sector was closed due to access problems. The dunny is in great shape.

Through the first sector : The trail is in great shape until after the mirador. You then cut upwards into the alpine which is also easy walking. After passing through a saddle, you contour around above the treeline. This is the most difficult part of the section. Quite a bit of step scree traversing. Not for everyone. Once you drop into the valley waking is again easier. There are some occasional cairns that become more and more frequent as you drop into the other valley. As you contour left an intermittent trail is evident. When you enter the lenga forest (-45.97321, -72.10278) there is a great trail down that turns into a road here : (-45.97886, -72.10358) (Jan: maybe you want to update the track files to reflect this?) Then is road walking to join the popular walk.

Popular sector of Cerró Castillo : There are some side trips not included in the track files. They're on the map you get. Note that the old Bosque site (-46.06197, -72.16016) and La Tetera (-46.07200, -72.18390) are now closed. You can not camp there. For most people this means camping at the new el Bosque : (-46.06418, -72.16964)(Jan : maybe you want to update the track files?) Get to Laguna Cerró Castillo before 12 to beat the walkers heading up for the day. But this shouldn't be an issue as you need to cross the pass early : an important thing we would have liked to know is that the pass (-46.08030, -72.21103) can be closed in the afternoon due to strong winds. There is literally a ranger there that can turn people around. Not much water over the pass either. And the poza cerca mirador doesn't look welcoming. Carry water here. In the next valley there were more rangers and we saw some people get checked for permits. It's a shame this park is now being comercialalised :(

Getting back to Coyhaique : Not much traffic. The last bus heads back at 6pm

I'll try upload some map photos and a breakdown of the entrance fees when I get the photos off my camera.

Cheers, Felix.

* '''2020-Jan-18 and 19 / Regular Hiking Southbound / Martin Lizondo'''

The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge. I met other day hikers going to « El Mirador ». Snow was easy at the passes. The trail was in good conditions until the cross country. There are two spots which I consider dangerous, so I don’t recomend doing this section alone: 1) the gps tracks passes through a very vertical rocky (nearly climbing). I was scared and I can’t recommend doing it, except you asume this risk. I could see later in a map that the original route went all way down in the valley through lenga forest, but if there was a trail it’s invisible now. 2) When the cross country leaves the tree line and becomes a small trail into the lenga forest at 45º 58' 23,54" S, 72º 6' 10,02" O (“minor road” starts later, despite the gps track info); it’s very stepy and unmaintained. I made a mistake and started to follow the stream all way down, but you have to look up and search the beginning of the hidden path. It’s very vertical and easy to fell down, because of recent land slides. Be extremely carefull. The rest of Cerro Castillo from Las Horquetas is well maintained, beautifull and enjoyable. Cons: Lots of people. When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu'''

No technical difficulties in the park, just following the trail and enjoying the views.

To follow the GPT northbound, leave the parc trail to go north. It is an "old sendero" in the forest, but well maintained and easy to follow during the beginning (it is marked on maps of the parc). In this direction, no problem to leave the forest in a safe spot, but southbound, looking behind, seemed hard to find the entrance of the forest and of the safe trail ! No technical difficulties until the first pass, rocky terrain like the rest of the park.

The dangerous part is indeed between the 2 passes. You dont go in the valley in front of you but follow the altitude line until the pass that you see at the right side of the valley. Very steepy rolling stones path. I was a little bit afraid. I tried to be smarter than the tracks, trying more uphill... this was a dangerous mistake that took me long to repair and go back to the tracks. There are indeed two river crossing (no dangerous waterstream) but they are circled by cliffs, so not easily crossable.
The track follow mostly the tree line (I.e the separations between the little trees and the stones) So my recommendations :
- follow the gps tracks : they follow the tree line who is safer with a solid ground and grass. Sometimes you have to cross the stones, no choice, so go slowly, choose your paces wisely and it's doable. Try to aim for the grounds of grass in the middle, which are solid, or the stones with foam on them, which mostly didn't move for a while. For the rivercrossing, it aims a good spot with no need to climb down or up.
- choose a good weather day : for me it was sunny and no wind, so perfect day, and it was already mentally hard (not speaking of the horseflies getting you crazy during the hard moments !). I wouldn't try it with rain or big wind in this river of rolling stones.
- if you don't feel it, easy escape by the normal trail of the parc

However, I can assure that the prize for the effort, going northbound, is amazing !! But I won't spoil !
After the second pass, no technical difficulties, you find a Conaf trail easily, and I even cross some tourists with a guide.

* '''2019-Nov-29/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 3days / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route with OH-MR-V (Villa Cerro Castillo to Las Horquetas)'''

The section follows the rather popular tourist Hiking route Las Horquetas for the first two days, meaning there will be less solitude but also rather well maintained trails. The national park and the region around Cerro Castillo was very impressive, we especially enjoyed to take all the side trails and visit the numerous beautiful glacier lagoons. The only unpleasant part of the hike was the organization of the national park. The exorbitant high entrance fees are in no relation to the other parks, which is due to a high ratio of private land in the area but makes the park rather unattractive for tourists. some rangers seemed poorly informed and couldn't give much information (e.g. insisted that passes were "closed" and only after asking numerous times agreed to check with his colleagues that told that they are "open"). They also said it is not possible to hike the regular route of the GPT, because we have to check out of the NP at the checkpoint Las Horquetas. There is an optional hiking route continuing North from there. Due to bad weather coming up we ended up not finishing the northern stretch of the trail and just followed the entire Las Horquetas Route at the Carretera Austral.

* '''2019-Nov-29 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

Snow line is at around 1200 Meters but all passes are safely traversable.
The National Park Entrance Fee got raised to 29000 CLP per person for overnight hikes in season 19/20. The park generally seemed very poorly organized, we were told the passes are "closed" at first, whereas they were easy and safe to traverse. The ranger insisted that we could not hike the normal route northbound but have to sign out of the park at the Las Horquetas checkpoint. In high season, the ranger station in the park is manned, so maybe it is possible so sign out there and head northbound.

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Eva Havlová'''

There is still lots of snow in the National Park. I arrived to Villa Cerro Castillo 3 days ago (Novembre 12, 2019) and planed to hike nortbound but rangers didn't let me go. I saw the pass they were talking about (avalanche risk) and I don't think any avalanche could occur, but the thought is that there is lots of water running down and the trail is like a stream. They said it might be possible to do it next week.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019 Jan/ Oilrik / Northbound'''

We ended up doing the normal Cerro Castillo hike as the weather was forecasting heavy rain and snow so we did not want to be on the pass. The regular trail is just gorgeous and the park is beautiful. The trail in the north is not on the new CONAF maps but is marked on the old ones.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:'''

A sandy beach with a visible structure in the grass is the take-out for Lago Elizalde. After exiting, make your way through the farmland until encountering a gravel road that leads past the house at the top of the hill up to Ruta X-686.

Ruta X-686 is a lightly trafficked but well-formed gravel road that is fenced on either side. After crossing the Río Paloma, Ruta X-686 makes a sharp left and begins to climb. 4 km after the sharp left turn, cross a bridge to the left and climb to a wooden gate. If you descend the steep slope to the left of the gate, there is camping under some trees.

The wooden gate marks the beginning of a very long driveway to a house located near the lake. The route takes you along this driveway until a river crossing. After crossing the river, walk northeast along its shore towards the Río Paloma. After reaching the end of the fenceline near the Río Paloma, turn east and walk along the fenceline until reaching Lago Desierto. At the river outlet, there is a nice beach to put in to Lago Desierto.

There is no camping along the shores of Lago Desierto. The take-out is a rocky beach at the base of a bluff. Walk up the bluff and cross country through the farmland to Lago Azul. At the east end of the farm, descend down a road to a rocky beach at the Lago Azul shoreline with a metal structure.

There are a couple of potential camping options along the shoreline of Lago Azul. There are also several residences on the north shore. The take-out is a long rocky beach set before a well manicured forest. On the east end of the land near Lago La Paloma is an expensive looking house surrounded by several other buildings.

There is a 4WD track to the west of the smaller red house located south of the big residence. Ascend the steep climb on a well-formed road that is criss-crossed with several smaller tracks labeled in english with wooden signs. Due to the steep slopes on either side of the cut out road, there is no camping here.

Eventually, the route turns off of the road onto an overgrown 4WD track. Camping off the track is still difficult because of prickly vegetation and steep terrain. This track ends 2.5 km from where the Regular Packrafting Route joins the Regular Hiking Route. From here, the route involves some bushwhacking and following a small trail as it winds in and out of existence. Just before joining with the Regular Hiking Route, the route widens into an old 4WD track that passes some destroyed structures.

The routes join up at a large rock cairn and continues to follow a 4WD track until reaching a large wooden sign with a map of the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. Here there is also a campsite and ranger station. There is a 5.000 CLP fee to enter the reserve.

The route from here is a popular track for backpackers with designated campsites. The trail is well-formed and winds through the forest. When the trail becomes less obvious, the way is shown with yellow markers. In this area there is a designated campsite with a latrine.

At treeline, follow the cairns and rocks painted with white and red stripes through the scree up and over the first pass (approximate elevation 1.450 m). After the steep descent, reenter the trees. There is a campsite, Camping El Bosque, soon after reaching treeline (approximately elevation 940 m) with water and a latrine.

The trail begins to wind up through the forest toward Laguna Castillo. The sights from Laguna Castillo, which is at the base of the pass, are stunning. There are two tracks that climb up to the pass. Make sure to take the path that climbs to the south instead of continuing southeast over the obvious saddle.

The track down to Ruta X-720 is well formed, marked, and popular, but occasionally braided. Follow it until reaching the wooden stile with a rangers hut. From there join Ruta X-720, a dirt road which leads to Highway 7 and Villa Cerro Castillo.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Dec / Michael and Kasia
We stayed at Hospedaje Gemita on Ramón Freire next door to Camping Castillo, 20.000 pp for room in a shared cabaña. The cabaña had 4 rooms (2 doubles, 2 singles), a well equipped kitchen, hot shower. Not allowed to do laundry in the Hospedaje, but there is a lavaderia in town. The hosts, Gemita and Pedro, are very nice. They have also spent a lot of time in Los Avellanos on horseback. Maria, one of the settlers in the valley in Avellanos is a cousin of Pedro.

We found gas in four shops, two had the threaded canisters for stoves, one was 6.000 for a 300 ml tank, the other was the COPEC across the highway from town, 4.000 a tank. The others just had refills, cheapest was the supermercado on the highway, 2.700 for a refill canister.

There is a Banco de Santander ATM in the COPEC on the west side of the highway.

Just on the other side of the highway on the road to the park there is a fruit and vegetable shop that also sells frutos secos and nuts in bulk. He had the best prices.

*2024-Mar /Joscha

Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.

*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=
*2024-Dec Buses Sao Paolo passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique every day around noon, 8.000 pp; Buses ECA passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique Thursdays and Mondays songs 11:30, 8.000 pp.
*Buses to Villa Frei from Coyhaique bus terminal: Monday 7:30, 8:15, 15:30, 17:00, 19:30 Tuesday to Friday 8:15, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30 Saturday 08:00 and 14:00. No bus on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Villa Frei & the bus generally turns around immediately & goes back to Coyhaique.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023/ Martin & Helena
To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side.

*2023/ Jakub+Veronika:
1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets.

*2020 / Martin Lizondo
The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge.
(...)
When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT32 - Cerro Castillo]]

=Images=

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'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
* General advice : The Regular Route is best hiked between December and April. The primary obstacles are high river levels early in the season and after rain. During the peak period of January and February it may be difficult to obtain a camping reservation at La Junta which could prevent a southbound traverse (but people were usually let through when they say they go all the way to El Arco).

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-12-15 to 2025-12-17 / 3 Days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RH / Michel & Lisa'''

Day 1

We took the 8:00 bus from the Puerto Montt bus terminal with the company "Rio Puelo" (more details in the transportation section below). It filled incredibly quickly and left completely full, so we were glad to have gotten there 20 min early.
We passed Cochamo at ~10:30 and the bus was still full, it would've been difficult to impossible to get on the bus there I think.
Got to the ferry by bus at about 12:20. After the ferry on the other end of the lake, the next bus was waiting and took us further. It actually drove up Río Manso all the way to this point: [-41.70165, -71.98239]. But you might have to ask the driver to do that if you wanted to go there since it seemed we just dropped off a few passengers there. This would be an option if you wanted to packraft the Río Manso option (22-07).
We got to X{22-01} [25.0/187] (known to the bus driver as Lago Totoral) at around 14:30. The bus driver told us that we could not camp down the road at the lake (Lago Azul, i.e. Camp (22-02A} (3.7/222]) though he didn't say why. We started walking towards it anyways and found a closed gate with a "private property, do not enter" sign in our path after a few hundred meters. While we were looking at it, an elderly man came to us and started chatting from the other side of the fence. He seemed to be the owner of the land. We politely asked him if we could go down to the lake here to cross it in our boat or camp at the lake if the wind didn't permit crossing. He said yes and mentioned something about maybe helping him out for using his land if we did camp, though we didn't understand him very well. In the end he let us pass without any payment. There's a nicely kept campground a few hundred meters after the gate, which seemed to be his. We continued on the very well kept road to the lake, where there's some boating infrastructure. It seems that there are paying guests here sometimes (maybe in summer). You could camp here at the lake (i.e. Camp (22-02A} (3.7/222]), but there are quite a few structures around, better continue to the other end of the lake like we did (or, if you are fast and have the energy, go all the way to the next lake which would be a really nice place where there are no buildings at all, here: [-41.99745, -71.83223]. Practically no wind on Lago Azul made us put in and start. We had some light tailwind later on but didn't take out the sail and made it in 1 h 40 min, arriving at 18:20 at Settler {22-02} [3.9/217]. There are a couple of houses here and many nice campsites. As we arrived, three arrieros on horses came by who greeted us but didn't come to talk to us. We figured they didn't care much if we camped here, so we chose a site nicely sheltered from the wind close to the small stream (about here [-41.98298, -71.84432]). Some cows came to check us out but they seemed relaxed and friendly, so we stayed (very unlike our experience on GPT16, haha).

Day 2

Got an early start (early for us, anyways) and left by 8:00. The morning was fresh but not cold. We had to open and close some gates at the settler's property and were amazed by all the animals they have here - cows, sheep, horses, pigs, chicken, peacocks. You don't have to cross the little stream that flows towards their houses (we did, only to cross back again). The trail starts a little further up and is very clear. We got to the small lake, where it would be amazing to camp (as mentioned before, no buildings, nice flat grassland to put your tent, here: [-41.99745, -71.83223].) Got to Lago de los Rocas soon thereafter and put in at 10:00 with practically no wind on the lake and got to the end of the lake in 1 h 20 min with some tailwind and sailing. Especially once we reached the narrow end [-42.06854, -71.81438] the wind got stronger and then once we landed (12:30) it picked up even more (ideal for sailing, not too strong). So it could be a good idea to do this lake a bit later, more sailing that way. ;-)
The end of Lago de los Rocas would be fine to camp, but there's a ton of horse poop and two football goals on the big (flat) grass, so it's not that appealing (Camp {22S} [21.8/314]).
We hiked to the carabineros who were really friendly and chatty though a bit disorganized, haha. They said it was absolutely no problem to camp in between here and the argentinian border post. We didn't tell them about our packraft (also weren't asked) but I'm pretty sure they wouldn't have cared. I can imagine it depends a lot on the officer who's in charge at the moment what treatment you get...
We went on to Lake (22S) [20.9/201] where there are nice campsites as well and put up our tent for the night (and afternoon, we arrived at 13:30). It's nice and sheltered here. :-) The two level-ish spots close to the water are not very big, but our two-person tent just fit on one of them.

Day 3

There was some slight rain at night and in the morning which delayed our departure a bit. There was already some wind and waves on the lake but the wind was in the right direction (westerly). We started paddling on Lago Inferior at 8:30 and made the 4 km to the end in 45 min. The waves were almost too big but we managed. After we arrived the wind picked up even more. We then continued hiking and didn't even try packrafting Lago Puelo since we were pretty sure that the wind would be prohibitive.
The officer at the Argentinian border control didn't seem too happy when we told him we had left Chile the day before and camped somewhere in between. But I think that was mainly because he suspected that we had illegally camped on the Argentinian side (at least I believe it's prohibited to camp here, but I'm not sure). We explained that we had camped on the Chilean side and that seemed to be fine. However, he was not too happy that we didn't have exit stamps in our passports. The chilean Carabineros had only put the exit stamp on a printed piece of paper exit form and not inside the passport, which we had thought was weird at the time, too. But they had told us that you don't get an exit stamp in the passport here. Well, after some eye rolling, the officer said "ah, no importa" and gave us our entry stamps. He even shared a tasty tortilla with us. :-)
From there we continued hiking without any issues. The trail is easy and well maintained, just like before. We forded Río Azul here [-42.08661, -71.62103] without issues, the water level was at or just above our knees (we're both around 170 cm tall). If there was rain before, the fording could become a bit of an issue. The views towards the south here are super beautiful! We hiked to the Visitor center of the National Park where the bus departs every full hour ([-42.08902, -71.61789]).

* '''2025-11-28 to 2025-12-02 / 5 days / Packrafting / NOBO / RP (partial) + Option 8 (Rio Ventisquiero) (partial) / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 01: we got the 8AM bus from Puerto Montt to Lago Tagua-Tagua (7000 CLP), ferry (1340 CLP) and the bus to Primera Coral (2000 CLP), arriving at about 3PM. We followed Option 8 alongside the Rio Ventisquero on a 4x4 track. We stashed our food where the train meets the river for the first time -41.99928, -71.93188. The side stream Rio Correntoso at -42.01706, -71.94015 was a little too deep to ford so we used the packrafting to ferry across. After the crossing the 4x4 trail ended and the trail was tricky to follow. Eventually you’ll find yourself in farmland at -42.02391, -71.95023 with lots of barbed wire fences. We made the mistake of descending down to the river to camp.

Day 02: The farm is very easy to navigate - you should head straight for the gate by the building at -42.02519, -71.94891, then exit the farm through the gate at -42.02704, -71.94878. This then joins a very good trail which continues all the way along Rio Ventisquiero. We didn’t quite get all the way along the GPX track, deciding to get on the river at about the 15km point: -42.01938, -72.05608. The paddle down Rio Ventisquiero was absolutely stunning. Mostly grade 1 rapids, with a couple of easy grade 2 sections. Very little wood in the river made the paddle stress free. After picking up our food stash we continued to the confluence and on down Rio Puelo to a camp at -41.96241, -71.91332, which was secluded but just sand so pegs had to be reinforced with rocks. We got Entel 3G coverage at this camp site.

Day 03: The Rio Puelo was beautiful, but lots of wood in the water meant we were kept on our toes. We exited the river as indicated and found a relatively well defined trail. This continued as far as the farmland at -41.88868, -71.96327. After that the trail was very difficult to follow and very overgrown. We made use of our machete and made very slow progress for a couple of hours. Gradually the trail got better but we only managed to get about half way through this section before calling it a day. We found an excellent camp site next to the big rapid at -41.85605, -71.98205.

Day 04: We put in directly after the main rapid at -41.85389, -71.98136. There were three other rapids to portage:

1: -41.85020, -71.97891, grade 3.

2: -41.83783, -71.97900, grade 3.

3: -41.83532, -71.97799, grade 2.

We portaged #1 on the rocky beach on the left. This was simple, but the large rocks made portage difficult.

Rapid #2 is not visible on our satellite images, and we believe is it newly formed from landslides from the creek on the right of the river. It was easily portaged on the right. We needed to paddle hard to ferry across to the beach above #3 on the left.

Rapid #3 is at the start of the right channel of an island. There is also a smaller rapid at the start of the left channel. You should portage the rapids from the island. We portaged #3 on the left or the right channel. On inspection, both channels around the island would have been ok to paddle, but visibility down the right channel was better, so that’s what we chose.

After these rapids, the rest of the days paddle was very relaxing in comparison. There was quite a bit of wood in the river, but as the river widened be became easier to avoid. We reached the ferry terminal at 18:00 and waited for the 19:00 ferry. It wasn’t until the next morning we realised we were at the wrong location, and the ferry terminal was 5 minutes walk down the road.

Wrong location (toilets): -41.69748, -72.11422

Correct location for ferry: -41.69885, -72.11884

We slept in the unmanned building at -41.69748, -72.11422 which made a great shelter for the night, and had lights, flushing toilets, running water and power outlets.

Day 05: we got on the river at a great spot 500m from the ferry terminal at -41.64383, -72.17079. The river is straightforward apart from the rapid section as mentioned in the waypoints. We almost had a disaster and lost a paddle where one of the streams was blocked with wood. After an hour of searching we eventually found it. I don’t have any recommendations for a safe route through this section. There are several rapids, max grade 2+, but very shallow and rocky. The shallows were rocky and covered in algae, so very slippery.

The waypoint instructions to stay right is a good plan, but would involve lots of hauling your raft over rocks. Some of the rapids might be possible to paddle depending on your boat and water levels. Take care because there’s a lot of wood in this section!

After the rapids, the river widens and is much more relaxing. We exited the river and finished the section at -41.65247, -72.30067. We missed our bus so stayed overnight in an outstanding cabin in Puelo at -41.66261, -72.29580 for 40k CLP (https://maps.app.goo.gl/B8nh4TJS3Tw5aXFq9 WhatsApp: https://wa.me/56996127975).

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-02 / 2,5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / OP (02A) / 02D / RH / 22S / Daniel.s'''

In short: from Cochamó by public transport to near Lago Azul, then Lago Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, Lago Puelo

Day 1:
Bus from Cochamó to Lago Tagua Tagua leaves every day between 10 and 10:30 (coming from Pto. Montt). From there you hop directly onto the ferry and from the ferry you can take the next bus towards Segundo Coral (hop off anywhere you want, just let the driver know). I got off at "acceso Lago Azul" by Lago Totoral X {22-01} [25.0/187] and started hiking. The land owner charges (in my opinion illegally) 6k clp for access to the lake. Once up at the lake it depends on the wind if it's safe to paddle. I had low winds, was on the other side in ~2hrs. Camped at the beach S 41° 58.959', W 071° 50.706'.

Day 2:
Hiked the short section to Lago Las Rocas, strong tailwind already in the morning. Reached Carabineros at noon (they're open till 8pm), no Salvoconducto needed. They email PDI and get a reply before he finishes filling out the paperwork. Camping between borders is an option (around 2kms after Chilean border post) needs to be communicated with Carabineros. Paddling Lagos Inferior and Puelo is also allowed. I opted to hike until Lake {22S} [26.8/213], because of too strong winds on Lago Inferior. Lago Puelo is a little sheltered in the beginning, no problem paddling until Argentinian border post (open 8am till 8pm). Immigration no problem, camped there.

Day 3:
Wind picked up over night and waves were massive, so paddling was not an option. Hiked the 7 kms to the National Park entrance S 42° 05.344', W 071° 37.075' on RH (no issues there, it's a popular trail), bus leaves from there to Lago Puelo village and El Bolson every full hour until midnight (yes, I double checked, midnight) The bus driver was happy to change CLP or USD (small amount) do i vould psy the fare. You get everything you need in Lago Puelo village.

==Season 2024/25==

* '''2025-03-05 to 2025-03-15 / 11 days (2 days rest) / Hiking+horse+boats / RR 22N+Valle Verde+22S / Dorota'''

This stage was exceptional due to the people I have met on my road.

Day 1:
I took Uber from Ralun to the entrance to Valle Cochamo (20.000 clp, +56 9 9866 2101 Miguel). I was there at 8:58, so I still had 2 minutes to enter. I said that I would like to go to Arco. I have registered and got a lot of information about the route. On the road to La Junta I met Ariero, Javier. He was returning to his house in Valle Verde. He took part of my luggage. The trail was muddy. There were some tourists but not too many. Two boys were looking for a girl who had lost last night on the trail near Junta. Rio La Junta (98.9) till knee for women of 1.64 cm and Rio Traidor (97.4) also. I spent the night at Milico (Ariero said to me about this place) before the Arco (-41.42665,-72.05549). Water from Rio Cochamo.

Day 2:
It started to rain in the night. The trail was very moody. It was a really hard day. As I know, Javier and I were the only persons who made this day stage from el Arco to Laguna Vidal. We started at 7. Rio El Arco had a water level to my knee. But at 12 a.m I had a big problem crossing the river [80.9]. There was no bridge. I tried two times, but I resigned. In the middle, the current was too strong and the water was to my waist. I waited one hour, rested a little, and crossed the river. But it was really demanding. The night ended at the end of Laguna Dial, in Casa de Dona Luisa. The night, dinner, and breakfast cost 31,000 clp. I met a group of Argentinos who had waited for better weather.

Day3:
I had an invitación to the house of Javier at Valle Verde at Morros. It is 5 km from the trail. It was the next day with rain, so I was happy that I had a roof. Javier is a local guide. He can organize horse trips and pesca, and also has hospedaje. @cabalgatasypescavalleverde, +56 9 4945 9601.

Day4: rest en Valle Verde.

Day5:
I came back to trail on horse with Javier. It was amazing because it was my first time on horseback. I survived 17 km on horseback, also crossing a river. After that, I walked to Steffen. I spent the night at 53.5km. Here is a "fugon" house with a place for a fire. Here, I met arrieros de Lago Vidal. They invited me for asado and wine. In the night, it was raining.

Day6:
I crossed Rio Steffen (till knee) without a problem. In the morning it was raining, after that it was sunny. In mini shop 43.0 you can buy a lot of things. I asked for a boat to cross Rio Puelo. Women said to me that I needed to go to cabanas de señora Oco and from there call for a boat. In Manso I took a really good bear. At cabana de senora Oco (Fabian,+56 9 6102 0535 ), a man called for a boat. I went to playa and after one hour came somebody. He took me to the other side for 20.000 clp at point -41.74885,-72.065492. About 1.7 km from the house of Ricardo Garardo (28.9). I put up a tent at -41.76425,-72.05840, close to the house of Ricardo.

Day7:
In the morning, I returned to Ricardo’s house because his three perros followed me. He invited me for breakfast. Finally, I spent the night at his house. In the evening, we collected cows and sheep on his motocross, giving apples to the pigs, and made bread. And also, he showed me how to use the cable car for crossing the river. It was a really interesting day.

Day8:
Ricardo +56 9 6473 8749 took me on his boat to cross Rio Traidor for 30,000 clp. But I have not paid for hospedaje y food. In my opinion, if you take a boat from Playa de Dona Oco, you should like to cross Rio Puelo y Rio Traidor. I continued RR from 24 km. It is a good place for camping at -41.85365, -71.98192. And from this point, you have some bushwalking and till puesto 7.7 km trail is not clear. Wife of Christian invited me for the night. I helped her with carrying different things. We spent a very nice evening together. Her husband was in Puerto Montt.

Day9:
She also said to me that in Puerto Urutia from 9 to 12 and from 15-17 is Dario with a boat for crossing the river 1000 clp. Hostel Puelo Libre is only with a reservation. I took the road to avoid discussion at puesto 7.2.
On the trail I met Roberto (he lives at lago rocas at -42.01945, -71.86015). You can ask him to put up a tent. He crossed with me a landslide. After Laguna Mosquitos the trail is complicated because of fallen trees. Finally I spent the night in the middle of BB but there was no water. (-4×.05604,-71.83066)

Day10:
Day without problems. Crossing borders easy. Control point AR is at 34 km not 30. I spent night at camping agreste.

Day11:
I took variant 22-03 to Lago Puelo at 1.7 km before Rio Azul. Men said to me that he had water level till his hips. At Lago Puelo I have found a fantastic place for stay. Hostel La Estación 15.000 ars for a night. There are a lot of shops. The most economical supermercado is Todo, the most expensive is Anónima. You can withdraw money, a maximum of 60.000 ars with a commission of 14.000 ars.

'''2025-02-01 to 2025-02-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO (partly) / option 8 / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)'''

When we hiked/packrafted the GPT21-GPT22 back in 2013 we had some very nice stays with settlers in the valle ventisquero, so we decided to come back with our kids this season.

We did a 4 day trek starting at rancho Velazquez-Alegria (-42.02312, -71.93288) after an extensive almuerzo with the campesinos which we had not seen since 2013.
There is a bridge over the Rio Correntoso (-42.02938, -71.94279) where you can leave a car, so no need to do difficult ford near the mouth of the ice stream into the ventisquero river.

The first 5km it's all ripio walking where it changes in a trail just next to a ranch. There is nice camping on the river banks at (-42.01151, -72.02404).
There are safe cable crossings for Río Alicia (-42.02393, -72.05756) and Rio Unniverso (-42.03852, -72.12473).
There are several settlers in the valley which offer camping (see picture on FB page, rincon bonita is glamping with fly-in guests, so skip that one). Our objective of the hike was Bernaditta Alegria which offers camping at 6000CLP/person with hot showers included.

Bernaditta also offers half board (delicious food) sleeping in a bed for 45000CLP/pers/night. She has starlink internet nowadays, which is free to use when she puts on the solar battery 2-3 times a day for like half an hour. She still remembers well when we stayed at her ranch back in 2013, because on the night when we camped there, a puma came out of the mountain which killed a sheep somewhere 50m from our tent. It's a lovely place to go with kids.
There are a lot of wasps because of the fruit trees, so in autumn they might become very aggresive.

'''2025-01-25 to 2025-01-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO (partly) / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

* Primer Coral has a very nice campspot. Chance there will be kayakers around doing the upper section of Rio Puelo with class 5 rapids you can watch them paddle it, it's insane.

* I heard there is a cabin you can stay up on Río Ventisquero would be a nice option and you can leave part of your gear/food at the camping. And do an overnight trip. Rio Ventusquero supposed to be very nice.

* I was lucky to go with another group of Kayakers into the Rio Puelo and into the rapids at the Canyon. I had no whitewater experience but the camping owner convinced me it was doable and safe even if I fall. It was nice to paddle the Canyon and the waves felt huge. I had a decked packraft that still filled with water, which was nice and made it more stable.

* So if you are here and get the chance on going with a group of Kayakers into the Canyon and rapids , it will be a nice experience

* First I would continue after the rapids and the pickup would take my backpack. But I decided to go back with the pickup to Primer Coral and continue next day towards Argentinia.

* First part of the trail from primer coral to Lago de Las Rocas is closed the settler there told me. You can join the trail from road V723. But I went from Lago Azul.

- The trail (blue line) towards Lago Azul already started earlier. * From the road at you left side there is already a sign with trail towards Lago Azul.

* Lago de Las Rocas went fast with wind in the back.

* I had to stay at the border crossing because they only had electricity at 7 p.m. to register me. Next morning from 8.00 I could pick up my passport. I did not fill in am online form beforehand and that was no problem.

* I went to the Argentinian border crossing that is indicated at the map. But because I was with a boat they did not let me. I had to get my passport stamped at the maritime office at the end of the lake at the beach of lago Puelo. So if you decide to skip lago Puelo/El Bolson than you better not show that you are by boat and pretend you are walking.

*'''25Jan2024 - 28jan2024 / hiking NOBO / RR (El Manso to Cochamo) / 3 days / Clara'''

From Cochamo to get to El manso, there is the bus - ferry (lake tagua tagua) - bus. First bus pass at Cochamo every day around 10am. It comes from Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas before.
First bus is 3k. Boat 1.3k. 2nd bus 500.

At El manso there are 2 little negocios. In front of the first one there is a cervecería with a nice terrasse, artisanal beer and wifi. Sadly it was closed on this super hot begining of afternoon !
There is an inconstant but working phone coverage there (entel).

Lago Vidal Gomez. Possible to ask at the camping to cross the lake by boat, Francisco do the traverse during summer. 35k that can be devided until 4 people. May make you pay less if he has to go to the other side anyway to get other people. The family here also sell good bread, vegetables, beers, sweets,...

Because of rainy night, I slept on the north side of the lake at the first house. Marguerita has a sort of barn where you can sleep/pitch a tent and also make fire (for 5k). Dry toilets and water.

Then trail was on better conditions than I expected.
Camp sites along lago grande are really nice.
Refugio El Arco is a really good shelter if bad weather (all in wood, nice roof, closing windows).

Between El arco and la junta very muddy trail but nothing impassable even after a rainy night. It just slow down a lot.

The valley is really nice.

La Junta - Cochamo : overrun +++.

There are multiple buses going back to Cochamo from the end of the trail

*'''2025-JAN-20 to 2025-JAN-27 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 01 / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel)'''

Stage 22 is one of the longest sections of the GPT, but from our perspective (also thanks to our route choice), it wasn’t particularly difficult. Due to health issues and plenty of time (we had a scheduled meeting in Bariloche on a specific date), we took the stage quite leisurely.

The first part to La Junta is very busy, with a large number of day hikers. That wasn’t really our thing, so we rushed ahead into the wilderness, which starts right after the camps in La Junta.

In the Rio Puelo valley, due to health issues, we chose Variant 01 and rejoined the RR at Puerto Urrutia at the start of 22S.

The most surprising and interesting stop on the trail for us was meeting señira Alexandra at Lago Verde, where we spent an entire morning on the lake on boats and doing deep water solo climbing. (More details in the BIVOUACING section.)

ENTRY INTO VALLE COCHAMÓ

The first major challenge is entering Cochamó Valley, but it’s not as complicated as it might seem.

The entry checkpoint is at Road End {22N} [109.8/58], and access to the valley is free. However, due to high visitor numbers, there are relatively strict regulations. To be allowed entry, you need to follow these rules:

If you want to camp near La Junta, you must have a reservation through www.reservasvallecochamo.org and bring confirmation of your reservation to the checkpoint. Entry is permitted between 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

If you want to camp at Refugio El Arco, no reservation is needed, but entry is only allowed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.

The time restrictions aren’t enforced too strictly, but you shouldn’t arrive much later. According to locals, it’s also theoretically possible to enter very early in the morning before any staff arrive, avoiding the need to follow these rules.

However, we personally recommend adhering to the official regulations. There are many visitors (often with little or no experience), and if the beauty of this valley is to be preserved, some regulation and monitoring are necessary. This is also why camping outside of the designated campsites in the valley is prohibited.

For GPT hikers, the best option is to enter the valley in the morning, explain your plans, and then hike to El Arco, where there is plenty of space for tents and camping is free. (Although volunteers manage the site and, like at the entry point, record visitor details.) If you follow this approach, there’s no reason you wouldn’t be allowed in, and you will still comply with all the rules.

CHALLENGES

Ford at Rio Traidor {22N} [95.9/340] was very easy. All other fords on this section were also crossable with dry feet, except for the final fords over Rio Azul at the very end.

Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn’t exist, but the river can be crossed on fallen logs.

Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) was washed away. There is a cable car alternative, or you can cross using fallen logs.

At Settler {22S} [7.2/215], a man yelled at us from a house, saying we shouldn’t walk there. He seemed angry, and we didn’t feel like arguing. Instead, we walked a short stretch along the road and then rejoined the trail by climbing over a valley (near coordinates -41.98297, -71.88292). This involved a short bush-bash and crossing a creek on fallen logs.

The trail around Las Rocas is quite overgrown in one section, with many fallen logs. This rough stretch is between km 17.8 {22S} (-42.05306, -71.83367) and km 19.9 {22S} (-42.06622, -71.81971). We believe it may be possible to bypass this section using other trails, as well-maintained paths connect before and after it, but we didn’t try it ourselves and just bush-bashed through.

Border control was quick and completely problem-free on both sides.

BIVOUACING

The first night, we camped at La Frontera Camp at the entrance to Cochamó Valley. It’s a small and very nice eco-camp, where making a reservation is a good idea. Staying here was a special experience for us, as it is run by Pavel, a fellow Czech.

At El Arco, there’s a shelter, though it doesn’t have much sleeping space. However, right next to it is a large grassy area with plenty of room for tents.

At -41.56978, -71.93585 (km ~64.3 {22N}), there’s a beautiful flat campsite with a refugio.

At Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado), there’s a fire pit with benches and a small tent spot.

One night, we camped in the backyard of Valle Puelo Brewery. They let us stay for free, but the roosters woke us up early.

At -41.96567, -71.90571 (Lago Verde), there is a settlement run by a very kind woman named Alexandra and her brother. They offer cabins for rent, but they also allowed us to camp in our tents for 8,000 CLP per person. The price included free kayak rental for a paddle on the lake. We highly recommend staying here. It is also the only reasonable access point to the lake. Elsewhere, the shoreline is covered with dense vegetation or cliffs.

WATER

There is plenty of water available. The trail runs along rivers and crosses many smaller streams.

RESUPPLY

Cochamó has several minimarkets, a hardware store (where you can buy gas cartridge), a pharmacy, post office, and plenty of restaurants and food stalls.

At the Road End {22N} [109.8/58] (Valle Cochamó entry checkpoint), there is a food truck open in summer with fast food, and a small store nearby selling snacks and some basic groceries.

We bypassed Camp La Junta via Toboganes, so we have no info on current shopping options there.

At Lake, Settler, Camp $ {22N} [70.9/602], we bought very good and reasonably priced fresh cheese and beer. They likely have some other basic supplies as well.

Shop {22N} [43.0/49] is operational. It’s small but sufficient for basic resupply.

Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) is a complex of brewery with the best beer we've had in Chile so far. The store is slightly better stocked than the previous one and sells gas cartridges.

Llanada Grande has a fairly large and well-stocked supermarket.

At the start of 22S, there’s a restaurant with its own brewery (Hostal Puelo Libre).

TRANSPORT

A bus from Lago Puelo to El Bolsón runs every hour (around the full hour) and costs 1,800 ARS per person.

* '''2025-01-24 to 2025-01-26/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Option 02, RP, Option 09, Option 03/ Natalie & Tomáš'''

Coming from Cochamo, where we had to organize getting a new neck gasket, we once again set off towards Lago Azul. The bus for the ferry left at 10:30am (around here, -41.49304, -72.30553). It came five minutes after the bus that goes from Puerto Montt to the Cochamo TH. We left Rio Puelo at 12:00 after ten minute break but missed the docked ferry by a minute or two. Only had to wait ~30min for the next one and the busses on the other side were still there. Lots of people, so Entel did not work. The bus did its regular stop at Llande Grande (~10min - they have a very good non industrial salami there) and then we got off where the road to Lago Azul goes around 15:30. We managed to get a hitch quickly, but it was short lived. There is a man watching a gate (7mil for the car owner, nothing for us) and the car was only allowed to go ~1km further (maybe because it wasn't 4-wheel drive, and/ or they only allow certain [local?] people to go all the way, not sure). The road to the lake has recently been "upgraded" and is quite ugly. 02B and 02C are probably roads too, based on satellite and a little foot survey where 02B joins 02A. At the beach there were a stand selling empanadas, a toilet, about 20 people and 4 cars parked. We started paddling around 18:00. First going west for ~600m to check out an alternative trail Tomáš was interested in that is on OSM leading to here: -41.92170, -71.87635. The trail exists, but might be somewhat unused, as there seems to be a new road for cars built above it. Anyway, it looks like a more attractive and shorter approach to Azul, somebody needs to investigate it (we only noticed the trail half way on 02A). The start of the lake outlet (20 m) is magical with its blue-green water, a nice detour. The waves got stronger near the middle of the lake but then eased quickly. Near the end of the lake we had calm water. We camped at a spot we noted last year when hiking: -41.98306, -71.84801. It has a small flowing creek but is near a cottage. Both years of being here we have not seen anyone in it, you can camp in the trees and be mostly hidden. People vacation in tents 200m along the lake shore. Lago Azul is very pretty.

The next day was straightforward. Lago Los Rocas was "reflection-like" calm, despite starting around 11:00. We were worried about the boat and the Chilean Carabineros (read Jan's description in the manual) so we put the boat and equipment into the duffel bag and placed it all outside the Carabineros building, entering without our luggage. Everything went well because the men were nice (same ones from last year). However, we were almost busted when they asked us specifically if we were going to Argentina on foot or by boat. At first we said boat, but then they asked who was taking us, and when we struggled to come up with an explanation, they seemed to take our silence as a language misunderstanding and asked us again, so to make things easier, we said we were walking. We then slipped down using Variant U. If you are uncomfortable about this, it might be worth just putting your boat in your bag and walking the 3km to the next beach along RH. Variant S does not exist. Lago Inferior was once again sadly not windy, we started around 16:00 but no horsepower from the wind.
Tomáš and I had a small misunderstanding about our end goal at the lake. Tomáš wanted to walk up the river to scout the rapids and possibly run them back and I, being completely unaware of the obvious, agreed. I thought we most likely wouldn't run them and just walk on the other OSM trail. What I didn't know was that the river flowed against us, despite looking at satellite images and saying, "why does it look like the rapids are going in the wrong direction?" and noticing it's called"lake inferior". Like I said, unaware of the obvious. When I realized the river went against us I instantly hated the idea, but we were already past the normal take out point, so in the end we went for it. The first longish set of rapids (class II, -42.10240, -71.73502) is north (river right), so you cannot just connect to the OSM trail next to the river. We crossed to southern shore of the river and had a slow 400m walk and 100m paddle up to a point we could safely ferry back to the northern side, -42.10413, -71.73233. It was slow because of the algae/didymo being very slippery and rocks in the river bed having gaps in between them. You will appreciate how easy entrapment could be here if water was deeper and faster. A pole in one hand will greatly improve your stability and also a leash for the boat (walk the dog). We paddled up to the second short rapid(class II+?, -42.10487, -71.72934). Walking along it's side was more involved as we had to lift the boat over some rocks and it was a bit sketchy trusting our dollar store locking carabiners on our leash. The last rapid (class III, -42.10487, -71.72934) was much easier to walk along, once again on our north/river-right. We filled up on water after the last rapid and paddled towards the lake. Surprisingly there was not much wind and the waves only started to be not small just before the Argentinian border patrol, so it was a bit slower than expected.
All in all this option was probably a little slower than just packing your boat and walking to the border control and about as fast as deflating your boat, walking the 2km portage and reinflating your boat. If you are careful, it is not dangerous (slips permitting). When water levels are high, it might be a different story. It took us 75 minutes. If you go down river, NOBO, the first (going from Lago Puelo) rapid had some undercuts, so better walk it down on the right, but the rest can probably be run (after scouting!) or walked.

The camping at the border was once again packed, and this time all toilets were locked or non-functional, pretty gross considering the amount of people. There is a stream on the west side. The evening was quiet but fierce wind picked up around 3am, the wind was better in the morning but still not great. The check-in with Argentina (open from 8 till 20) was very easy and we got our passports stamped. I had a bit of "boat fever" and wanted to walk out, plus I wanted to be conservative with the waves at this lake. Tomáš felt it would be totally manageable so he sailed on down to Lago pueblo and I hiked out to La Pasarela. It was an okay hike with a little bit of water along the way. It was up and down basically the whole way and very warm. La Pasarela is extremely popular. There is a restaurant and a smoothie joint and many other food stands. Somehow I didn't get a hitch. There is a bus stop when you hit the main road around here; -42.05087, -71.59679. I went into town and caught the bus out front the hospital here; -42.05924, -71.59776 @ 14:15. It was 1.700mil and paid only in cash. The earlier bus stop would have been fine. Plum season is almost here, red ones are tart but edible, yellow ones need at least 2-4more weeks.

Tomáš: waves were sizable (75 cm maximum difference top to bottom?), from the camp I had to ferry to get out of the cove, but then I mostly paddled only to keep the boat in the right position and let the wind push me to the lake end. A huge parking lot by the beach, hitching does not work but the bus does.

* '''2025-01-15 to 2025-01-22 / 7 days / Packrafting/ NOBO (flip flop)/ Option 8 (extended), RP / Natalie & Tomáš'''

For hikers: the RR west of Rio Puelo is actually attractive and the part we walked was no bushbashing, do not all shun it :-).

Summary

Last year we were inspired by Tobi and Fangwen's (T&F) trip into the Ventisquero valley and tried but didn't finish due to time and weather. On the flip side, that meant we were able to return this year with a packraft, which made the return trip much more interesting. It is a stunning valley and a beautiful river to be in a packraft (a must for packrafters, Tomáš thinks). There were virtually no tabanos which was a biggie after the mid-January infestation of 20 and 21! Tomáš did the upper Ventisquero river after the view-hike in Rincon Bonito and I chose to go higher on the mountain of the view-hike as T&F considered, both not in GPT yet. The Ventisquero river was easy, class II at most, we hit our knees on occasion. The Upper Puelo before the hike was very easy with a faster flow, just a bit of wood (nothing that couldn't be avoided), probably class l. We skipped the first rapids of the Gorge (6.2), they are surprisingly powerful and should not be paddled by anyone unskilled or without a team. The hike was actually nice, not that overgrown and pretty easy to follow. Tomáš went back into the river a little earlier and skipped the last 6km of hiking. He had to walk one more rapid and ride two. The rest of the Puelo until the lake was once again easy. Upon approaching Lago Tagua the headwind was strong and paddling was slow. We planned to paddle to the parque Tagua (Option 11) but the waves and wind were very strong so we camped and crossed the lake the next morning, skipping the hike. Lake was easy and fast in the morning but the lower Puelo was slow for the first 5km before the rapids. We skipped the first rapid there and went down river right, putting in a bit earlier than Jan suggests, crossing a few small rapids and hitting our knees once. The rest of the lower Puelo was a bit slow but overall the whole thing was very beautiful.

Day zero: the bus

We again took the bus at 8:38 near Hostel Apel in Puerto Varas to Cochamo, we were told the bus that goes to the ferry (Laguna Tagua Tagua) was 10min behind the Cochamo-only bus. The ferry bus supposedly leaves here: 41.3160641S, 72.9853782W at 8:15 and then probably goes around town, taking a long time. The plan was to get off the first bus, look for Tomáš's inReach he had lost and then catch the second bus. Unfortunately, while we were looking for the inReach, the Ferry bus passed and we were unable to stop it, it was the only bus of the day. On the bright side, with more time to spare, Tomáš managed to wake up the land owner of Camp {21} [79.3/7], and it turned out they had found the inReach the day before and gave it back to us, yay! Soon after all of this (~10:15) we were able to catch another bus to Cochamo (later we learnt Cochamo buses leave @ 8,9,10,11,12 and 16:00 from Puerto Montt). In Cochamo, we waited until a bit after 12:00 for a bus to Rio Puelo (but no more buses to the ferry). We reached Rio Puelo at about 13:45. Since both of us were underslept due to Tomáš having spent the night vomitting (and having had little luck with hitchhiking on that road last year), we found a very nice two-room cabaña for 50.000 here: -41.66243, -72.29821, WhatsApp +56 9 4243 2328. (Entel internet in town functional.)

Day one: the bus and the walk, 4 km

The bus from Rio Puelo is said to be at 11:30 but didn't arrive until 12:15. If one is stopping in Puelo for re-supply, there is a small vegan bakery with good sourdough loafs (-41.6599144, -72.2974946; not open Mondays). Also Supermercado El Maiten sold gas canister's for 7mil. By one o'clock and 1.5mil per person shorter, we were at the ferry. There you get out of the bus and catch a new one waiting at the other side (there are two on the other side, be sure to take the correct one). It takes over half an hour and costs 1.3mil (slow but functioning 3G Entel most of the lake ferry, but not at the end, telecom tower at the northern terminal). The ferries are three and at least two of them go 7 times a day each way (December- March), so you are likely to wait less than an hour. The buses on each side of the ferry are coordinated The bus to primer coral costs 1.5mil. It still stops in Llamada Grande (10-15min) and the Entel internet mostly not functioning (receiving e-mails and text messages at most). We got to Primer Corral at 16:00.

Our plan was to stash extra food near Ford 37.5 (not fordable, maybe in February or better March). It seems it is regularly used for camping. We read T&F got their food stolen so we made sure to hide/bury our duffel bag of food very well. Unfortunately, after I hid it and carried on to the first ford, Tomáš met a pig. The pig tried to invade his backpack despite Tomáš only standing a meter away. He realized quickly our food stash had no hope against this invader. Since he did not know where I hid it, he started to pursue me, which only came to fruition at the river "Correntos", which has a fitting name. Therefore our first day was extremely short. Tomáš took both our backpacks across the ford (had to cross up river near the top of the islands where it divides into three: -42.01786, -71.93876 ) and made camp (lots of spots near the OSM path). The river was above his knees (173cm), but the length of the crossing, doing it three times and coldness made it somewhat challenging. I went back to make the duffel pig-proof, taking the OSM route that follows the river in my way (-42.00228, -71.93336). It was a lot nicer than the road, recommended.

Day two: Ford camp to outside Ricon Bonito, 16 km

Since we were both still struggling to get over our stomach bugs, we had a late morning and a very easy day. The simple 16km walk to Ricon Bonito felt a lot harder than it should have. As T&F described this section before, it is partially a MR, with a short detour, turning into a trail midway. From our river camp, the GPT track files follow an old trail used probably mostly by cows, until a settler: -42.02520, -71.94877. At the settler, who was not at home, we had to zig zag through gates and over one fence until reaching the MR: -42.02707, -71.94872 (it makes a detour probably to cross Rio Correntoso over a bridge). The way to Rincon Bonito is signed with little red arrows. Our first water was located here: -42.01995, -71.98929, shortly after the MR ends and trail begins. The last few kilometres of the MR were recently "upgraded", so it is quite ugly, and they may expand it more, but who knows. On the trail, there were two more simple fords. The first ford was a calm creek: -42.01840, -72.04246. There looked to be good camping just before it, would have been a nice place to aim for the first night. The second ford [15.8/164] has a cable car, where the GPT files indicate a bridge. Tomáš went to verify this after we forded and saw other tents camping there as well. Not sure if it was organized or not, probably yes. A little further ahead there is a settler with their own cell tower. Tomáš (who is from Europe) got full bars but my Canadian phone got nothing. There is still water just before the turn off to the viewpoint trail as T&F have noted. We went into Ricon Bonito to see what they would charge us for camping. We were surprised to meet a group of American packrafters who had flown in that day to paddle down to the fjord. There were 5 of them sharing the 200mil cabin, so not terribly expensive, but the plane from Puerto Montt was 600mil. Kind of nice to know we had a group of river guides near. In the end we were not allowed to camp at this glamping site, it is for reservations only. The men that worked there recommend us to camp at the Bernardita Alegría's (referred to as "abuela" in earlier seasons) 2km up the valley but they said it was 25mil a night per person, which sounded far too expensive for camping (maybe it included half board?) so we found a place in the forest not far from Ricon Bonito and once again had an early night. It seems that while the valley is privately owned (by several landowners? - settlers still live up there), there are no right of ways issue, yet...

Day three: Stealth Ricon camp to Ventisquero river camp, 20-25 km

The trail to the view point is steep but easy (~930m in 4km). The men working at Ricon Bonito had cleared the brush the day before, so Tomáš finally didn't need his machete. There was a little bit of water on the way up ( -42.03631, -72.09700), but probably best to fill at the bottom. You do not have to go all the way up for a view, there is a view point after 450m of elevation gain. At the top we decided to split and go on two different adventures. Tomáš wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero river with the boat and I wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero mountain (aka go to the highpoint above the view point like T&F considered). Luckily we both had successes and you can read Tomáš's description below. As for extending the trail to a highpoint at 1600m I HIGHLY recommend it. By using satellite imagery and intuition, the bushbashing was not bad at all. The bush is that dwarf alpine Lenga that is usually very stiff to walk through, but luckily it was not so dwarf. It was taller than me which made it possible to slither through the understory without much fight. There is roughly 500m of BB, the rest is CC. At the beginning I zig zagged between hidden open spots and then eventually made my way to a ridge-like feature that had many breaks from the bush, and some interesting views. You have to play with this ridge a bit because it is not continuous. Ridge around here -42.05122, -72.09511. Eventually you break free from the bush and enter a dry basin just below the highpoint. It is an easy walk from there and if there is snow you might come across a few small meltwater streams as I did. The views were amazing. If we did not have a plan to start paddling that day I would have explored the ridge. It easily goes to 1700m and then from there it looks you could connect to the main mountain, it will be a fun trip for one lucky person.
As for meeting Tomáš, we planned to meet where the track files hit the river. However I was unable to get to that spot as there were blackberries and cliffs, so I ended up taking the main trail to the river in Ricon Bonito: no one said anything. But when you take this trail down you will hit the bottom and eventually walk along two small boardwalks, just after these boardwalks, the main trail goes left, but dont go left, a better way in is to the right after the boardwalks. It is a sneaky path but it is there and leads you to a nice small beach. Luckily I was ahead of Tomáš and warned him of this new point; -42.02492, -72.09604. We had a nice evening paddle of only a few kilometers, filled up on water at the cable car ford and then made camp in a sheltered bay. Unfortunately the day ended with a torn neck gasket: I ripped my neck gasket all the way to the bottom when taking off my drysuit. I was terribly sad and in disbelief. I had been trying hard to treat it well, not pulling it, covering my face with a balaclava when putting it on, covering it with a balaclava from sun, treating it with 303 and so on. Luckily Tomáš had one bar of internet ať the camp site so I managed to find a store in Pucón that could ship a spare neck gasket to Cochamo (do not do that, ship things to Puerto Varras instead).

Tomáš's trip up the Ventisquero valley:
This goes beyond what is in the GPT files - I was not sure why they end up only in the middle of the valley. when one can clearly see buildings and meadows higher up the valley on satellite.Turns out there is a trail to them indeed. There is one more settler, Fredy Alvarado living here with his family: -42.03933, -72.13376. He is signposted, maybe he would provide lodging and stuff too. Up to him, there is an OSM trail. You can divert from it to a cable car over a river here -42.03852, -72.12473 (signposted by Ricon Bonito). From Fredy, the trail continues, it seems to be used by animals and is still fairly clear. When you enter one clearing, trail can be a bit difficult to find, join it here: -42.04754, -72.16677. Then here -42.04773, -72.17127, the trail fell into the river with trees (obstructing it, this part needs to be walked in packraft through a shallow side channel). It is just 50m and can be easily walked around. The meadows are abandoned puestoes that still seem to be grazed. I put in here: -42.04244, -72.18400. One could probably walk further up in the braided river bed if willing to ford, the valley is really pretty with lots of waterfalls and glacier views and the river would be packraftable for a few kilometres more. River itself is stunning (more scenic and wild than Rio Puelo I think) and easily navigable until Bernardita's place here -42.03202, -72.11899, where II or II+ rapids start (sorry, I am only apporixmate in rating). With a bit of scouting and skill (I am not very skilled though), the rapids are navigable though, as I ran them. The second and third are the biggest, and those are the ones I scouted, the following ones are a bit smaller but could have been scouted too. One can also portage and supposedly there is a path maintained by Ricon Bonito along the river bank (see OSM) so bailing out should be easy. Where there is the OSM path to the side valley, there were some cables so I assume a cable car, but did not see it and cables could be for water too, I did not get a good look. Rapids end around our meeting point with Natalie. I definitely recommend this extension especially for packrafters.

Day four: Ventisquero camp to Puelo Gorge exit, 26 km

We spent the morning organizing the online neck gasket purchase with one bar of internet and then set off quite late. The Ventisquero river is indeed gorgeous and at this time of year unlikely II+, the rapids are small and easily portaged if need be. Tomáš thinks II+ is for the rapid section he did alone - or possibly for spring months with more water. We scouted a few rapids but overall there were no surprises, and obstacles were easily passed. There was very little wood, and the wood that was there was big and obvious with lots of room to go around. I saw only one rapid with possibly dangerous strainers ( -42.02042, -72.06173 if we postidentified it well). There are two possibly low class II rapids here: -42.01429, -71.99931 and here: -42.01853, -71.99523. The first one is straightforward, the second one has a good line on the left of the main current. I personally agree with Jan's description that the river is shallow, we hit our knees a few times (canoe seat). Tomáš thinks it is "Moderate with occasional ground contact" at most - and this more in the upper part than the part we did with Natalie, that is as long as you pick the correct main line to run rapids, anyway it has a lot more water than Rio Huenuhuenu. There was one more water source for drinking further down the river on river right (-42.01882, -71.98949) and then Rio Correntoso if you trust that. I wish I filled up more because it was the last water until Bridge {22N} [7.4/137]. We got to our food stash near Ford 37.5 in ~3hrs. After lunch we headed towards the gorge entrance/hiking section (Rapids Start 6.2). This part of Rio Puelo seemed easier but flowing faster and with more water, no more shallows. There was more wood than the Ventisquero but once again easily avoided. However, there were a couple of underwater logs we almost hit. Tomáš thinks the river is at most I+, when Jan mentions "up to class III" in the manual, that either applies to November or is wrong, you can avoid all of the small rapids if you want and keep it strictly class I. We were totally surprised when we hit the gorge because we were fighting a headwind and thought we were moving slow. Turns out we were still moving fast (~13km in 1.5hrs) and therefore missed the exit by a hundred metres- you do not want to miss the exit! (the gorge is more than half a kilometre after the exit). We had to walk back up the river and ferry across it to get to the start of the hiking section. It was 17:30 so we just camped there and boiled river water. There is a telecom tower above Puerto Urrutia but we did not test it. Lots of didymo algae.

Day five: Gorge to end of hiking section, 12 km

The bypass trail turned out to be a nice up and down trail. It is only very little overgrown with some beautiful views of the gorge and powerful rapids within. There was drinking water throughout. We started late and stopped somewhat early. The first ~2km to Settler 7.7 (Christian) was very easy and clear but Bridge 7.4 is not there anymore, there is a new log bridge just up the creek bed (go left after the gate). Two men on stunning horses were there but we didn't talk for long. The overgrown bit technically starts after this settler but it was ~80% easy to see and follow. The meadow sections are the only places easy to loose it and it was only badly overgrown at the first beach after Settler's 7.7 gate (locked). There, the GPX wants you to walk on the river shore, which is probably a lot easier than the overgrown trail, as long as you find the entrance back to the trail again: -41.87870, -71.96787. Later, it would have been very overgrown after the last hill climb before Settler 15.3 but it had been recently cleared. I was very lucky as it seemed to have been cleared that morning or day before. There were fresh cuts, prints and horse poo. I often found the GPX was off by ~20m, which can be annoying in the forest at times. At the third beach (~6km before end), Tomáš and I split. He wanted to paddle the last bit as he believed it could be a good alternative river in, the rapids looked easily portaged. I was less inclined, so I walked and he took most of the weight and we met back at the normal put in. See Tomáš's notes below. Camping at the end of the hike, beach under Settler "Castanos", is very nice. There are lots of camping spots on the beach or grass meadow above and some tables as well. Near his boat, there is a tarp set up, if you want shelter from the rain. You can fill up on water at the top near Castanos or ferry across the river to a creek.

Tomáš: Rio Puelo in the section that is portaged looks like at least solid class III (that was also the assessment of the Americans we met earlier - they said the start of the gorge is 500m of big waves without holes, surveying from an airplane on their way to Rincon Bonito) and technically probably can be run by people who know what they are doing (but do your own research), as the Americans presumably did (but they were river guides). Possibly, you could even put in (somewhat precariously from a rock) at the end of the first beach Natalie mentions above, walking the rapids (the gorge is mostly not closed from then on where there are rapids) if you have got the skills (they are still mostly class III). From what we saw, I am unsure only whether rapid at -41.86224, -71.97834 can be walked, as we could not see the rapid properly. Also possible there are more rapids than we saw. Make your own assessment first.

Anyway, I put here: -41.85388, -71.98151. This is also a very pretty and comfortable campspot with access to water. There were three more rapids. First one well visible on satellite at -41.85019, -71.97913. It is II or II+, but short and straightforward to run through the center. Could be walked on the left, especially if you have a rope. Then there is a rapid at -41.83779, -71.97925. The main current is probably still III, I did not like it, so I walked it on the right, which was easy (and short, like 10-15 m). The last rapid is here: -41.86224, -71.97834, I would say it is II (or possibly II+) and I ran it. Natalie was faster as I ate, took forever to set up the boat and scouted all the rapids, which I would recommend you do too. Even with the scouting, it took me about an hour to do this section. The last two rapids were not visible on satellite, so Jan's waypoint ending the rapids is correct. According to my GPS, Puelo drops from 80 m to 45 m over this section, which is about 15m more than the manual says. The gorge is beautiful (but you will see it even if you put where recommened by Jan, it is not over there yet). Puelo here has a lot of that nasty didymo algea thing, it is ugly and do wash your boats after leaving.

Day six: End of hike to Laguna Tagua Tagua, 28 km

Rio Puelo was again pretty calm (and pretty) but then somewhat slow nearing the lake. Fresh (last that we saw) water not coming from humans here: -41.80219, -71.99786. We found a nice lunch spot here with picnic tables and nice views: -41.70008, -72.09018. No water but I recommend camping here if you know the lake is going to be too windy to cross and you don't want to take the ferry. However it looks like it sees day trip visitors. Our plan after lunch was to paddle to the start of the Parque Tagua Tagua hike. However, close to the ferry port the base valve in our middle seat inflation tube ripped (obviously a weak point in our boat as the same spot ripped on the main compartment while on the Rio Ñuble). Luckily it was just the seat. I stupidly put Aquaseal FD on it rather than taping it and doing the permanent fix later, so we had to be very careful for the rest of the day. The Aquaseal was a battle. I had been keeping the valve clean but the first few centimeters of aquaseal in the tube had turned to concrete and we had to make a new hole to get some out, I wish I had two tubes (FD + UV). In the end it didn't matter too much because the waves and wind were so strong at the lake that we decided not to cross the lake to get to the hike. For camping we went into the trees and found a wind sheltered patch of grass: -41.70132, -72.11486. We boiled water from the lake, probably not great considering the ferry port was right there. It is probably 4-5 hours of paddling from end of gorge to the lake.

Day seven: Laguna Tagua Tagua to Bridge 79.3, 23 km

We got started fairly early and the lake was easy to cross in about 100 minutes, even with some light tailwind. We stopped for internet at the north side. The first 5km of the Puelo before Rapids 68.9 were more like an extension of the lake, very slow (but pretty). It was easy to stay right at the small gorge before Rapids 68.9. We stopped to scout them and although they were not as strong as the rapids in the first gorge, they had many features we did not like. If there was more water it would have been possible to stay to the far right of them, but at this time it looked impossible to do so without hitting rocks on our knees (it is possible to walk the boat through here too). So we walked the boat to the far right as GPX indicates, there is not enough water to float the whole way. At the end of the walk (-41.61433, -72.21046), there is a a rapid you enter downstream if you want to re-enter the river. After that we stayed right the whole way, passing some more minor rapids directly after. We hit our knees badly on the last shallow rapid because at the end we went to the left of a center rock, we should have gone right (that was here: -41.60956, -72.21677). We found a nice water supply here: -41.61519, -72.24686. The rest of the Puelo that day was easy and it got slow, we had to paddle against the waves for the last few kms before Bridge 79.3 (it pays to follow the current, not chasing the shortest route). There was a fun small feature (possibly a hole) here: -41.63345, -72.25323 that we rode to the side channel of the river. At the bridge we got out and caught a hitch easily to Cochamo, and prepared ourselves to deal with the broken gear and online orders (the Post office in Cochamo is delivered to only on Mondays, so order your stuff to Puerto Varras instead - we had to go to retrieve the stuff in transit in Puerto Montt as to not wait in Cochamo for days). In Cochamo there are many hospedajes, the going rate seems to be 17mil per person. We chose Hostal Arcoíris (-41.49402, -72.30973), we got a small private room for 34mil. There is a large grass area in the back with outside showers to make cleaning the packraft easy, only downfall was it is very popular for Chilean campers. Good fruit shop here: -41.49456, -72.29692.

* ''' 2025-JAN-18 > 22 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 22N > 22-01 > 22S / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : aucun

Après quelques achats à Cochamo, je continue ma journée pleine de surprises. Sans que je fasse d'auto-stop, une dame s'arrête et je fais 4km avec elle sur la gravel road qui mène au barrage de la CONAF. Il est alors 15h30 et il n'est plus possible de passer depuis 15h, dernière montée possible seulement avec une preuve de réservation au camping La Junta. Pour passer sans réservation il faut se présenter entre 7h et 9h. Je dors au camping 200m avant le barrage. Le dimanche matin, je me fais dépasser par des dizaines de coureurs. Après La Junta, il n'y a plus personne et le sentier est plus difficile et boueux. Jusqu'au km 45, ce sont des montagnes russe. On a toujours l'impression de monter. Je prend la 22-01 puisque le RR est fait pour le packraft, et surtout parce qu'après l'échec du GPT20 pour demander un bateau, je préfère éviter de recommencer, 3 fois qui plus est.
J'ai fait de l'auto-stop 20km sur les 30. J'ai fait quelques courses à Llanada Grande, le supermarché est vraiment bien. Je n'ai pas vu de bateau au km 0 du 22S, preuve que j'ai fais le bon choix. Ensuite sur le RR ça alterne entre route de terre carrossable et chemin ou il faut pousser quelques branches, et enjamber des arbres en travers de la route. Mais le chemin est relativement bon. Attention aux ronces qui sont plutôt répandues ici. Aucun taon. Les 4km avant de croiser la 22-X sont en très mauvais état. Attention à bien passer par les postes frontière Chilien et Argentin, le premier pour sortir administrativement du Chili et le second pour entrer administrativement en Argentine.
JAN-23: Repos Lago Puelo

* '''23rd of december / 1 day/ hiking/ sobo/ var 12 + boat (rio puelo) + rr (lago inferior) + var 3 / allie'''

I started in segundo corral where I stayed in a hospedaje. The dueña helped me with the logistics of the boat transfer +56 9 2050 2809. The border control went smooth on both sides. The trail is well maintained and stunning views. When i got to the village lago puelo i tried to cross the rio azul but the current was too strong and it was very deep. I couldnt pass (im 165cm). I went back to the argentinian border control to ask for a boat. They called for one through the radio but no responses. so i had to take the detour to get to la paserela (var 3) which was an extra 13 km more or less to get to lago puelo alto. I passed some people that managed to pass the rio azul 5 km away from the pasarela. But they were quite tall.

* '''(2024/Dez/19-2024/Dec/23) 5 Days/ Packrafting/ NOBO/ Route K/ Lukas, Basil, Maxi and Tabea)'''

Entry point at Lago Pueblo and took the bridge over Rio Azul, which looked not easy fordable. The path to the border was easy to find and well kept.
The packrafting route starting at primer corral is easy and nice. The hiking path starting at 15.2 is partly in overgrown and takes a long time. The second rafting section starting at 28 km is also beautiful and easy however the current is quite slow getting closer to the lago tagotago. The lake should be crossed before noon, strong winds pick up at around 12.
Rafting after Lago TagoTago is easy, the rapids need to be skipped. pay attention of water vortex.

* '''(2024/Dez/12-2024/Dec/17) 6 Days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Route N/ Lukas, Basil and Tabea'''

Entry point at Cochamo. Dont forget to register in advance for the park, they will send you away otherwise. In the park the path is well kept and easy to walk on, although a bit muddy. Up to the camping la junta many tourist are on the way.
From el Manso, after the loop, we took a bus to secundo corral. The bus leaves daily at 2pm on the main road.

* '''From 2024-12-07 to 2024-12-11 // 4 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Puerto Urrutia to La Junta // Mo'''

Transfer from Cochamo to Puerto Urrutia and the other side of Rio Puelo with Bus/Ferry/Bus/Bote was easy, then nice walking next to the river, in really short parts completely overgrown, otherwise easy walking until the river crossings where no settler was there but I was lucky to find others to get me over, from El Manso to La Junta you have a minimarket in El Manso and a little further (knocked on the door of the farm house) and a farmer sells eggs (I just asked for eggs) after Lake Viedma. In La Junta there is an expensive minimarket. Other settlers (like in Terrentosa) might also sell food.

* '''From 2024-12-04 to 2024-12-10 // 6.5 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Pasarela option, Option 2 (Lago de las Rocas east side) + Gravelroad between Llanada Grande and Rio Manso // MiaimZelt'''

In general: no dofficult river crossings, the biggest challenge was the mud between Rio Manso and La Junta. Navigation was mostly without difficulties.

Day 1: Easy trail to the argentinian border. Arrived at 5pm and needed to wait until next morning for the stamp. Camped at the beautiful and free camping next to the carabinieros.

Day 2: Got my stamp and continued. Lovely trail with nice vies until the chiliean carabinieros. Easy bordercrossing. Took the alternative at the east side around Laguna de las Rocas. At some point i saw a sign, indicating the trail is closed due to fallen trees. I continued, the trail got wider. Then i reached the farm of german settlers. A woman (Vivi) approached me and we talked. She told me, my GPX-Track is wrong, because it want's me to cross their private property. Last days people climbed over locked fences, what bothers them. Should walk outside of the fence. On the other side Vivi waited for me and asked me to walk the original trail with her daughter. Got invited to lunch, later her daughter walked with me on the original trail (indicated by a sign "Lago Azul 6km"), while she cleared it with a machete. I did record it with my Smartphone. Sent it to Jan, you also can find it in the facebook group.
After the ford of a river the trail in the dense forest was partly covered under fallen trees. Several times i needed to check the GPS. Camped at a tiny lake near Lago Azul.

Day 3: Didn't follow the GPS around Lago Azul, because it lead's through the property of a settler. Instead i stayed outside of the fenced area. Found signs indicating i'm on the right track, directly before i reached the shore of the lake. The path up to the gravel road was partly overgrown, but doable.

Walked on the gravel road, later i got a hitch to the supermarket in Llanada Grande. Very good shop for a full resupply. After resupply i didn't find a hitch, walked 3 hours until a very nice chilean took me the last kilometers. Stayed at Camp {22N} [45.2/44].

Day 4: Due to the steep up and downs + the mud i was much slower than expected. Met 2 very nice settlers on horseback. Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) has a cable car instead of a bridge. Settler warned me about it. Didn't know how to get inside, because it drives away when you don't hold the rope at the same time. Decided to ford the river instead, was knee-deep. 4 more easy fords along my way to the nice campside at Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado).

Day 5: Trail was in better conditions the next hours. At Torrentoso there is a open shelter with lots of space for tents around. Along Lago Vidal the trail got muddy again. Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn't exist, but very easy to ford. The forst half of the ascent to Lago Grande was easy, but the second half was very muddy and challenging. Wanted to camp at Lago Grande but, Camp {22N} [83.8/1001] is fully covered under a huge downfall of several big trees. Trail along Lago Grande is in poor condition (fallen trees + mud). Camp {22N} [84.9/1012] is a beautiful campspot.

Day 6: Began with the poor trail. Directly after camp, there is a hole where the trail should be. Campspot near the tiny lake. Later one more huge downfall. Trail improves a little bit until El Arco, but due to mud i was very slow. 4 easy fords until the refuge. Rio Arco was knee-deep, easy ford. Met the first hikers directly after the crossing. Mud was getting even more, improved at the descent. Ford Rio Traidor was not difficult, again knee-deep. Ford Rio La Junta could be avoided, because above Toboganes there is a bridge. Didn't know. Could stay at Camp Trawen (13mil), was plenty of space for more tents. They have a small kiosk. Toboganes waterfall is worth to be visited.

Day 7: Easy trail in the beaufiful rainforest from La Junta to the reception. Hiked on the gravel road and luckily i got a hitch to Puerto Varas.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-19 to 2024-02-24 // 6 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 2, 1B, 1 + Variant I, J // Quentin Clavel'''

Lago Puelo - lago de las rocas (east) - Lago Azul - Lago Totoral - Llana Grande - El Manso - Lago Vidal Gormaz - La Junta - Toboganes - mirador Arcoiris - Anfiteatro - Cerro Trinidad - Cochamo

The section begin with the crossing of Rio Azul, wich was not difficult at this time of the year. Then easy track to the lovely Argentinia border, I slept on the camping there. 8 more kilometers to arrive to the carabineros office. Easy border, nice people.

Then due to the landslide on the RR (carabineros confirm me that the track is still not praticable there) I continued along Lago de Las Rocas, on the eastern side, following the option 2. Pretty easy to follow.

At some point there is a junction, with a sign indicate Lago Azul - 6Km on the right. I followed it, even if it get me out of the GPX file (and the nice and easy to follow track). Not sure it was a great idea, I ended up on a sort of small bush-bashing areas that I managed to pass threw and after few kilometers, finally found back the option track, clear and easy, and continue my way.

Then you arrive to a big farm, the one from Jonas, a German native arriving here when he was a child, grow up there and have now a family, living in nature, along the lake, cultivating fruits and vegetables, and selling woods. Very nice man, interesting discussions ! After his farm, you'll follow the valley but keep the left in the woods straight after his farm, if not you'll arrive in a big swampy area.

The track is less obvious and there's a lot of fallen trees. Few check on the GPS was necessary. Then you reach the Lago Azul. The GPX file is going inside the property of a settler. He's a nice guy but his dogs less, one bites me ! (Not hardly, but still!). Just be more careful than me going there, or go around the property.

One last hard push to reach a gravel road, that you will follow until El Manso (30km a bit boring), but easy to find camping and food, especially around Lago Totoral. Resupply at Llana Grande, big supermarket with everything you need.

At El Manso, there's a minimarket next to the cervecería wich is a place where you can camp. The track is quite easy to follow, and quite physical with all the ups and downs. I had rain for two days and this stretch was muddy, especially along the Lago Vidal Gormaz. Then it becomes VERY muddy until La Junta. I had the feelings I will never finish this stretch, and I felt few times in the mud.

I was definitely not presentable when I arrived in La Junta, and the contrast was huge with all people well dressed with clean sports clothes who smell good the fresh perfume of lavenderia ahaha.

I wanted to do Arco iris, but the track is closed because of a landslide. So I opt for the glaciar Paloma wich was surprisingly technical and steep.
But the surrounding worth it, the glaciar Is amazing, the fact that you can enter into it is mad ! I slept up there, there's a little circle with rocks to put your tent.

Then I reached Cochamo and enjoyed great food, confortable hostel and relaxing atmosphere

* '''2024-Feb-09 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Gerald'''

First: I wouldn't do it if there was a lot of rain. Did it after a week of rain in 2019 and it was a mud hell until El Arco. Now it seems at least until junta the trail improved (not sure). For those who don't own a trekking pole, organize a stick early... you won't have mich fun with the muddy situation otherwise.

The bus leaving Puerto Varas at 8:30 (Bus stop at -41.31617, -72.985396) charged 7k. Surprisingly they drove me to the trailhead, last time i had to walk from the bridge, guess it depends on the bus. If you want to get a seat you should probably take the bus in Puerto Montt, had to stay the whole ride. Seems like they will also stop along the way if you wave (check the cochamo insta for an overview of the schedule and route of the bus).
Arrived at the checkpoint at 11:45. After explaining my trip and that i will stay at El Arco they let me pass (without a reservation). They just ask you to register before you go.
Stopped at la junta to make a coffee and enjoy the view. They sell veggies they grow on site.
If i remember rights from Rio Trador on it gets really muddy. It rained 4 days ago and mud was not a big issue until that river.

Anyway, arrived quite late at 8pm at the shelter. There is a path to the right to a place to pitch couple of tents. After Rio Traidor (-41.407173, -72.092915) would also be a nice place to camp

In average only 2 tabano/day annoyed me, what a time we live in... Finally

Dona Luisa has a nice spot on the southern side of the lake Vidal gormaz.
To give you idea, here a short pricelist:
5k camping,
3k for a beer (brahma or Sol),
7k for a bottle of wine,
12k for dinner (meat, salad and bread),
1.5k for cheese

Camping at the settlement Steffen looked nice. Unfortunately i chose a spot next to a way too curious bull...

The camping at the brewery in El Manso is not worth a penny (they charge 5k). It's basically a dry piece of land full of goose shit. Engine on petrol runs untill 10pm. Only wifi is positive. I couldn't find a good spot to camp nearby. I would camp way before. Bus supposed to arrive between 14:30 and 15:00. Luckily a car took me to Puerto Urrutia where i continued. Hostel Puelo Libre looked nice next to the beautiful river. Hiked until the north west side of lago las rocas.

Ricardo (?) offered me a ride for free to the other end of the landslide. But I chose to cross the whole lake by boat. He charged 30k (I was alone). The radio is not anymore at the "port", but you can walk to his house (just continue the MR, first house at around [-42.019089, -71.861245] to your left, if you want to avoid the dogs take the small trail to your left once you see it).

Leaving Chile without the PDI document was not an issue (I requested the paper 5 days in advance and only got an auto response...). They did not even ask. Good views on the lake from now on. Spend an extra day at the camp next to the AR border control. All in all, nice hike!

Missed the bus to El bolson by 5mins. Seems like it's more towards x:30h. I think they run every hour. Got a ride with a car for 1k to the city. If someone is fancying good sourdough bread i can recommend "El Obrador"

The Post office is also doing Westernunion here (check Googlemaps reviews for more Infos)

* '''2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / Lilian'''

If you decide stay at Segundo Corral, and take the boat to Argentina.

NO NO NO

NO NO NO

DON'T DON'T DON'T stay at Mari Mari Peni Camping, (or another name) Amancays Camping.

I saved a girl hiker almost RAPED by the campground owner, and I'm pointed by a rifle gun force me to stop helping her at the night on 07/02. About the details, i type it and upload later.

It is already reported to Chile carabineros and Consulate in Chile.

* '''GPT22 2024-01-31 to 2024-02-05 / 5,5 days days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Cochamó options/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

After a month and a half, we finally did something standard! From Puerto Varras (the bus stop on Avenida Vicente Perez Rosales just after Antonio Varras street) we took a bus at 8:38 going from Puerto Mont that went all the way to the end of MR to the "Road end" waypoint (aka the trailhead). At our hostel (Casa Apel), they told us it would arrive at 8:45. Not sure if this is the same bus that others said would pass Puerto Varras at 8:15 or if it just goes to the road end only in high season. It was 7000 per person - I think they might charge double for backpacks, it seemed expensive but happy they took us all the way.

We were at the entrance at 11 AM and were let through for free when we told them we were going to El Arco. Nat worries this excuse won't last long. The way to La Junta is really busy (met maybe 50 people and about ten horses), easy and without many views as it goes through a forest. When we reached La Junta, we decided that the valley is too special to just walk on by, so we decided to try our luck and ask for camping in order to do the side trips. We asked all the campsites and only La Junta let us stay, 8000 CLP per person. Nat says it is important not to spread the word as they were nice people and did us a favor even though they were not supposed to allow people without reservations to stay. So, do not expect to be let in. We had a numbered site so I think they genuinely had some places free. If nobody had places, after ford 98.9, there is a maze of paths and mini-meadows on the left where I saw somebody camp illegally. If you hide your packs well for the day and then camp from dusk till dawn, you would probably get away with it. Alternatively there are some flat spots in Trinidad valley two hours up - if you start so that you would arrive by dusk, you should meet nobody.

The side trips are steep but not challenging, many people take them. We went to Paloma [November 2024: in our suggestions and in OSM, like the next option too] in the evening, it can be done in three hours there and back if you do not stop (we did). We started going up at 1715 and saw last person going down at 1830 or so. It is quite splendid and fun, there are a couple of places you have to use a fixed rope. OSM says there is a route to Cerro La Junta. It is probably an exit route for climbers, I did not see any traces of it, but it looked like it was possible. If it is, one could probably continue all the way to Cerro Capicua.

Arco Iris is still closed. If it were open I think one could follow the ridge, which is not very steep or outcroppy, all the way north to above GPT21 - only there is probably no way down [November 2024: in the Facebook group, it was said that somebody died there and that is why it is close, so maybe there is nothing wrong with the path, but it is closed officially for sure].

The next morning I went to the Trinidad Valley and all the way up to Cerro Bella Vista and Nat went ahead to escape the approaching rain. The roundtrip takes about 7-8 hours. There is a marked travelled trail to the pass ("El Paso"), the last 300 vertical meters or so are marked by cairns. You will need your hands occasionally, but it is not exposed or particularly hard - SAC 4. The views are well worth it. It seemed most people only go to La Laguna (lake just under the pass). We started at 6 AM and I met the first people on my way down around noon at La Laguna. The way up through Camping Vista Hermosa (the current GPT track) is not supposed to be used by people not staying at the campsite. The proper way up seems to be the more western trail that is marked on OSM. Going back down trough camping Bella Vista was without issues though. They told Natalie you are not supposed to use their cable car (the one more upstream). Tomáš thinks you should use it as it is the only one that you can use without going through either of the campsites (the downstream one goes directly from La Junta campsite). No horseflies by now!

I left the camping at 15:30, and met only one group of hikers all the way up to the second Camp waypoint at Lago Grande. It is a nice camp, bigger than the first, but no good water sources. Wild legal camping, if I get it right. Refuge El Arco is unmanned, it is just a simple wooden hut. I would only use it in case of severe rain. The way up was almost all dry after two weeks of no rain. Mostly through forest, with some nice views of the valley, a few more fords than indicated, but they could all be jumped.

The next day it rained (5mm?) from 4 AM till 11 AM but it was not enough to make the trails substantially muddy. Nat had camped under a tree on a bench at Doña Luisa (5mil) and despite the rain was mostly dry without a tent. Tomáš had camped at Lago Grande and the tent got very wet (but not his sleeping bag). The bridge before Lago Vidal is not there but there was a nice log. There are some pre-colonization rock paintings after Lago Vidal, one probably needs to make a sidetrip to see them based on the information signs near Torrentoso (trail 22-10 was signposted; trails in the valley are well maintained so I assume the option is good to go). On the last meadow before the gone bridge at 51.8, there was a cherry tree that still had very tasty miniature cherries in the beginning of February. It is behind the house to the left of the trail, maybe 40 m from it. I discovered it by going south of the house (nobody seemed to be in it). Do not miss the turnoff of the trail from the meadow - I went straight, there was initially a trail but petered out into a landslide. Camp at 45.2 is nice but bring water (reach it by turning left from the trail cca 50-100 m beyond the imaginary shortest route from the trail to the camp, that way you avoid any vegetation, there is an opening in the fence (-41.70438, -71.99186). Finally met Natalie after two days of escaping rain, she found a dry spot under the tree canopies there. Shop in El Manso is better than expected (has good veges and fruit) but not as good as the one in Llanada Grande. El Manso also is besides a cerveceria with wifi (you have to buy the beer). The bus only came at 1530 despite being told it comes at 1pm. In almost three hours of waiting, we did not manage to hitch a car.

The bus indeed stops at Llanada Grande for 10 minutes or so - it is not really enough to orientate yourself and buy lots of supplies. The supermarket had lots of nectarines! Should you want to go to Puerto Urutia, the bus does not go there so you need to get off and walk the minor road there. We could not get reliable Entel internet reception anywhere in the valley (calls were fine) along the bus route.

We went to Primer Corral to do 22-08. The first few km are not a pleasant road to walk on. We decided to turn back as bad weather was coming in two days and it did not seem worth it. Not sure how far the road for cars goes. There seems to be regular but sparse traffic on it.

We walked back for about an hour on the main road before getting a hitch for the last 3 km to turnoff to 22-02, as others indicated the RR is badly passable due to a landslide. The MR we walked was aesthetically dreadful and supersteep. We had to climb a locked gate right at the start. We found a miniature camping spot (dry) about 200 m before the signposted trail turnoff. In the morning a lorry driver waved at us so probably no issues with climbing the gate. Luckily the trail is much nicer than the road. We met the settler at the lake Azul, he let us walk through his property. The few km to the first very small lake are actually an undriven MR, but very pleasant, it does not seem to be connected to the road network. After 2 km, one turns left onto a trail, there are new signposts indicating you ca go to the "Frontera" or the lake - go to the Frontera. Until the pass, it is very clear. After the pass, the visibility deteriorates somewhat but no bush bashing is involved. Soon after that, there is a gate saying there is no trail afer a harsh winter. We went further and it turned out there is a trail. There were some trees on it, but not too much and we lost it only for about 50 m. From setler at 11.4, the trail is much more clear. Met a seemingly lonely girl from the next homestead with whom we had a lovely chat. The trail to the border control was easy, we came there at 1530 and were let through. They told us that it would be ok to reach the Argentinian border control the next day. They too had a very ripe cherry tree but did not pick up on my appraisal of it and did not suggest I get some fruit.

We met several people on the way to Argentina border. We camped there (wild permitted numbered camping sites - there was about twenty other Argentinians, the functioning toilets are unsigned immediately next to the Police building, the building that looks like the old toilets is closed). The next day we had no issues with getting a stamp and going down. The last CC part is a trail. We forded the second ford a bit earlier than suggested, it was waist deep but very slow moving. Took a bus at 1340 to El Bolson - seems to run regularly (the dog bandits there are aggressive, watch out).

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + day trip / Lotti & Alex'''

We did this section mostly as described by Fangwen and Tobi (El Manso to Cochamo base camp), so there is not much to add. We stayed at La Junta for 2 nights and did a very nice day trip to Cerro Bellavista (see description further down). The trails were very well maintained all the way. The only minor problems were mud and lots of horse flies. Like Fangwen and Tobi, we were happy we did the section NOBO, because the landscape gets more and more spectacular. This way it is also much easier to get to camp at La Junta without reservation, because they always reserve some space for hikers coming from the south.
It was a beautiful hike and especially the area around La Junta is really spectacular and worth visiting. We even met a fellow GPT hiker there, which was great!

Transportation:

To start:
Bus "Rio Puelo" from Puerto Varas to Lago Tagua-Tagua at 8:20am, then ferry to Puerto Maldonado, then bus to El Manso. We arrived at the trailhead around 1pm.

after hike:
Bus from end of trailhead ("Cochamo base camp") to Cochamo/Puerto Montt at 1pm.

Day trip to Cerro Bellavista:

Start at La Junta on GPT Variant G, following the signs to "Trinidad". It starts by crossing the river with the little cable car. After the walls of Trinidad, stay on the trail and follow the signs to "Laguna". The official trail ends there, but there are stone cairns and ribbons marking a trail that goes up to the pass. The laguna is crowded, but we didn't meet anyone further up. The view at the pass is already great, but you can go up even further. Turn to the left and follow the stone cairns until the summit. It is not difficult, just walking and easy scrambling, and the view is absolutely spectacular.
The whole tour has about 1300m of altitude difference. It took us around 5h to go up, and 3-4h down.

* '''2024-01-07 to 2024-01-14: Fangwen and Tobi / 2.5 days Ventisquero Valley (Option 08 + more), 4 days El Manso to Cochamo RR / NOBO hiking.'''

We did two parts along this enjoyable section, connecting them by hitchhiking and resupplying in between in Llanada Grande.

The first part was hiking ~20km into the scenic Ventisquero valley (Option 08), alongside a wonderful river on an enjoyable and easy hiking trail through farms and rainforest that mostly follows an old minor road. It's often better to follow the well-marked trail rather than the GPT track files. A highlight of our trip was hiking up to a fantastic viewpoint at 1100m with a view of the whole valley, its remote side valleys and glaciated mountain peaks. The trail (900m elevation gain, 4.5km) through the thick rainforest is steep but excellent in quality and easy to follow (but the turnoff at S 42° 01.737', W 072° 05.643' is easy to miss). This and other trails in the valley are not part of the GPT files yet, but GPX files can be found on the website of Rincon Bonito (glamping accommodation for groups) that presumably created the trail. We camped by the viewpoint; what a wonderful experience! There are plenty of places to pitch up a tent, but little protection from wind. We found a wind protected camp in a dried-out puddle at (S 42° 02.705', W 072° 06.193'). Make sure to bring water, since the last reliable water source is in the valley, just before the turnoff onto the steep trail. From the viewpoint, we attempted to climb the local mountain, but beyond 1500m, it appears to require bush bashing. Our track: [[Media:GPT 22 Ventisquero Viewpoint.gpx]]. [https://rinconbonito.cl/experiencias/ The GPX on their site].
The viewpoint is within the Pumalin National Park, but the whole valley seems to be private property and camping is forbidden outside official campsites, which begin quite far into the valley. There are plenty of spots to pitch up a tent nonetheless (which is what we did).
For packrafters, going down the river must surely be a highlight! Rincon Bonito offers packrafting (maybe only for their guests?), they describe it as class II+.

Our second part followed the regular route 22N from El Manso to the Cochamo trailhead. This was an enjoyable hike and we found the trail to be in good condition, although it gets pretty muddy around El Arco (and that's after one week of sunny weather). There is quite a bit of pointless up and down between km45 and km79. Additionally, our hiking distance was often 20-25% longer than expected, as there are many switchbacks too small to be represented on the track files. We liked hiking this section northbound, as the rainforest and the views get more and more impressive as you go along. La Junta has a lot of local hiking options (e.g. hiking into the Anfiteatro valley or on top of Cerro Trinidad), but we didn't spend any extra days because the weather was turning.

Logistics: to get to the start of section 22, take the daily bus that leaves at 7.45am from Puerto Montt (stops at 8.15 in Puerto Varas at intersection el Salvador/San Pedro S 41° 19.081', W 072° 59.038', and later in Cochamo). The bus company Río Puelo has a ticket office in Puerto Montt, their WhatsApp number is +56 9 7408 9199. From there, take the ferry across Lago Tagua Tagua and the connecting bus down the valley to your respective trailhead (El Manso for the Cochamo valley, Primer Corral for the Ventisquiero valley). Note that travel is slow... We arrived at the Primer Corral at 4pm. We left a bag of food for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately it was visible from the parking lot and got stolen, so we resupplied at the Llanada Grande supermarket. The bus makes a stop there for ~15min, if you want a quick resupply there (it's a bit bigger than in El Manso). We hitchhiked to El Manso, which worked after two hours of waiting/walking (not a lot of traffic).

If you are in the Llanada Grande area, go to Camping Reflejo Azul. The campsite itself is average, but it has the most beautiful river we have ever seen in our lives. Visit this truly special place before Instagram influencers find out about it and it becomes overrun by hordes of tourists. Day access is possible also for 5.000 CLP.

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1732098767296002/?app=fbl

* '''2024-Jan-4 / 7.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RH + OP-LK-2 + RP / Lauren & Sebastian'''

Note: We were told a reservation is needed for a camp site at La Junta to be allowed into the valley from Cochamo side, so we did that. However, one of the wikiexplora entry mentioned that they were allowed in when mentioning that they wanted to camp at El Arco Refuge but we read it too late. Camp Trawen is the most expensive (15k per person), which is the reason why it’s been available on short notice. There are several other sold-out camps around for 8k-10k.

Day 1: We hitchhiked to Cochamo Base Camp at 9am and reached Camp Trawen by 2pm. It would have been better to go on the El Arco Refuge straight away and camp there. It’s a touristy stretch and in our view not really worth doing, if you like the general quiet nature of the GPT.

Day 2: Camped at the beach at Lago Vidal. Easy hike but lots of ups and downs.

Day 3: We packrafted Lago Vidal and had a good lunch at Luisa’s place (make sure to drop by!), before continuing on to Torrentoso (not the paid camp, but on the meadow a few hundred meters after the official camp).

Day 4: The bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) does not exist anymore. It’s not a demanding ford but there are short steep ups and downs on both sides. We stayed near wp Settler {22N} [50.1/307].

Day 5: We rivered in at wp Rio Manso. The ride was super scenic and beautiful and there were no rapids, just a bit of boiling water but nothing difficult, which might be due to different water levels compared to previous accounts. It’s 45 minutes from there to the bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36]. We rivered out behind the bridge on the right side. There is a nice flat beach which leads to the cabin of Harv and Veronica. They let us camp on their land and even offered a hot (wood fired) shower for 2.5k per person. There is a cervezeria and shop across the road for resupply.

Day 6: We took the bus at 1 pm to intersection at wp X {22-01} [25.0/187] and went on OP-MR-V (along Hunter’s estate) to Lago Azul. You will be charged 5k per person to access the lake. We crossed Lago Azul with strong waves and tailwind so we sailed to the other side in no time.

Day 7: Crossed Lago de Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, and Lago Puelo to the Argentinian border control which opens at 8am next morning so we camped there. Next day we finished at Lago Puelo which is a popular tourist beach.

Tip: It is a hot & dusty walk to town from the beach and hitchhiking is not as easy in this part of Argentina as in Chile. Keep some small change of USD or Argentinian pesos for the bus ride to resupply in town. If you plan to continue packrafting Lago Puelo on GPT23 after resupplying, the earliest bus back to the beach reaches around 7.30am but it will be too late as the wind picks up by 8am. Lago Puelo is known for its strong gusts so it’s best to check wind forecast and paddle early morning 5.30am to cross. Therefore it may be easier to camp at one of the campsites nearer to the beach instead of staying in town. Just go there for resupplying.

*'''2023 Dec OH-TL-V / Anh'''
Note: the trail OH-TL-V alias Cerro Arco Iris [from La Junta] was damaged by big rocks in the last season and is completely closed. A new route or repair is not in planning.

* '''2023-12-17 to 2023-12-21 / 5 days / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO /RR & Option 01B / Roman'''

Route: Hiking from Cochamó to El Manso. Bus to Lago de Las Rocas. Packrafted the lake and Lago Inferior. Hiked to Lago Puelo.

Due to the border crossing, there is a thread about it on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1709504102888802/. I applied online - no answer. Went to the carabineros in Cochamó they couldn't issue it, so I went without it (it worked without a problem)

Started in Cochamó (there is a bus to the entry I just got him by hitchhiking so I don't know the schedule) and had a reservation for Camp Trawen (Fruit, Groceries, Electricity). This is getting checked at the entrance if you have one. The trail to the camp was a bit muddy (2 days of rain before the start) but all doable. The next day went to the northern end of Lago Vidal Gormaz and slept there at Lake {22-05} [7.9/604]. Bridge destroyed at: -41.43696, -71.96632 and Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado). Both are crossable dry feed due to trees. Generally, there is no fording necessary after Lago Vidal Gormaz. Before yes. Packrafted Rio Manso. There were no rapids on the map, it's mentioned in the Manuel that it can be challenging. There are some rapids but all are doable and manageable (I am a beginner with kayak experience and an open deck packraft). You can get easy access to the river at -41.692561, -71.972725 this is 300m after the mark in the file. There is a dry river bed to avoid BB to get to the River. The river is fast flowing. Follow the GPS only at one point where the river splits pay extra attention: turn left as shownin the GPS: -41.698615, -71.985482 . Went out at the south side of the bride: Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36] (Rio Manso) on the right side. There is a trail to the street with one gate where you can walk through on the right side. The shop Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) has good supplies and free WiFi. The trail to this point is very good. Based on previous comments and a chat to a local I want to skip at least to Puerto Urrutia [comment in: 2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07]. There is an official bus going all the way from Rampa Punta

Maldonado -> Segundo Corral. Find the schedule here: https://imgur.com/a/7MVEscb . The shop owner said the bus is normally there at 02:00 PM. The bus was there in my case at 02:30 PM. This bus stops at the large supermarket [Supermercado Llanada Grande] a great place for a last resupply). The bus also stops at Puerto Urrutia but I went all the way to Lago de Las Rocas and used OH-MR-V {22-01B} [8.2+1.9] to get to the lake. Started packrafting at 05:00 PM. The start was fine. The wind got worse during the evening and was to my capabilities on the maximum with serious waves. Strong wind from the north. It was pleasantly paddling after going through the gap at -42.069608, -71.813735. Camped at Lake, Camp {22S} [21.8/314]. Got there at 07:45 PM. Crossed the border without any problems. Packrafted Lago Inferior and got in the water here: Lake {22S} [20.9/201] at 10:00 AM. The wind got stronger but manageable. Exited the lake at 11:15 AM at -42.102244, -71.742575. The trail back to the RR is good to hike. From there, the trail is in good condition. Due to the higher water in Rio Azul fording and therefore the RR is not possible. You get also the recommendation from the Argentinien carabineros to take Option 03. I didn't want to take this and followed the RR to this point: -42.091481, -71.633667. From there I followed the trail to this point: -42.09399, -71.634188. There is an old dock [image here: https://imgur.com/a/5LMsKA1]to put in you packraft. The trail can be downloaded at the end of the comment. There I packrafted with very strong onshore wind and if it hadn't been for only 300m I wouldn't have done it to (03:15 PM):-42.096114, -71.628682 ,and walked from there to the end of GPT22.

Overall: great section! It's a nice trail to hike and packrafting rRioEl Manso is a lot of fun and a great change in perspective after hiking for a few days. After that, the trail continues bto bein a good condition. The conditions for Lago de Las Rocas should be closely checked. I would definitely recommend it!

Trail download: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5q7YZzDoW3qlKypqwBg

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-03 to 2023-Dec-12 / 9 days / PACKRAFTING / NOBO & SOBO / Jordan Jennings'''
Route:

took bus to Primer Corral>Arroyo Ventisquero>Rio Puelo (walked 13km of rapids through canyon)>Lago Tagua Tagua>Rio Puelo>Estero Reloncavi to Cochamó (nobo) took bus back towards Primer Corral from Cochamó, asked to be dropped off near Lago Azul.. Lago Azul>lago las rocas>Lago Inferior>Lago Puelo>Lago Puelo town (sobo).

Highlights:

Arroyo ventisquero: is well worth a visit, packrafting or hiking. I got told that there is a hostel run by an abuela 4km further up the valley from Rincon Bonito (posh cabins) where the route on track files stops (c20km up valley from Primer Corral). Between the hostel and Rincon there are rapids, so be prepared to walk back to Rincon to put boat in water. The river from Rincon to Rio Puelo is stunning and very easy in packraft.

Lago Azul: If you flip flop (as recommended if packrafting), and return back to Primer Corral for sobo travel as Jan mentions in the manual, ask the bus driver to drop you at Lago Azul, rather than taking the bus closer to the Lago las rocas trailhead/Primer Corral. The 3km walk from the bus stop to the lake is easy and I got super lucky and passed a local horse race (Carreras) on a Saturday. Maybe ask ahead when they are on?!

Other comments:

The hiking section bypassing Rio Puelo (first set of) rapids through canyon, the 13km or so took me all day. Parts of the trail were barely a trail, very slow kms. Although I was also a bit sick so my experience might be tainted. The alternative is taking roads on the right hand side of the river.

I hiked the section between the Argentinian border patrol and lago puelo town (13km) which passed through some stunning farmland (lago puelo can get angry with wind as with any big lake). The dotted line section or shortcut which requires two river fords was impassable for me. Rio Azul was not even close to being fordable mid December. And even if you did pass, you would have to take the road to Puelo anyway.

In terms of transport to Primer Corral, the bus leaves Cochamó at 10:30am and Puelo at 11:30am (same bus, which I think starts in Puerto Montt v early). From the ferry there’s another local bus that will essentially drop you wherever you want (en route) to primer corral. Super easy.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-18 to 2023-Feb-23 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 22-01 / Martin & Helena'''

A lot has been already written, so just a few comments from our side:

No problem with entering the valley in SOBO direction, until the noon aprox., saying you will spend the night at the refugio El Arco - they have some time estimate for this hike and can’t let you in if its late. By the entrance you can buy some useful things that might be hard to buy in Cochamo, like gas or peanut butter. There was also a beer truck with quite good wifi connection (only during summer). Crowds of people in both directions, quite muddy trail. Detour to the Toboganes is definitely worth it. We spend the night after all in a marked camp aprox. 4 kms before the refugio and it was a good decision - there were quite a lot of people when we passed by the next day.

From the refugio its nice and easy walking. We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

Based on other comments and our time schedule we decided to take the alternative 22-01 to Llanada Grande. This is a good resuppy spot as there is a new and big (at least in comparison to what you would expect in a place like this) supermarket that replaced the old one destroyed by fire. Good place to stay is a campsite at the end of the village, on the right side, run by really nice lady. Not expensive and if its free, you can stay for the same price in a so called refugio, that is actually just a very small room, but for us better than a tent. Hot water and electricity + possibility to buy pizza and maybe some other small things - there is actually no restaurant in the village. Some more road walking around Lago Totoral to Rio Puelo to connect back to RR. In general not very attractive part of the trail. Great restaurant in Hostal Puelo Libre with local beer and view on the river.

From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake. We thought about taking the RR around the lake, but the landslide caused by snow (aprox. 1.5 km from the port) looked quite difficult to pass. We discovered there is possibility to cross the lake on one of the locals boat, which we did in the end. We were lucky that after waiting for some time in the port a car with locals arrived. Happily for us they arranged a boat transfer with other residents to get to the other side of the lake, where they went for a lunch. We were able to go with them, and after picking up their friends, we all hop off the boat close to the police station. Great experience and we learned a lot about this area and people living here. We paid 10k CLP. In the comments here is a contact for the guy with a boat, but without signal it must be arranged in advance, and the price might differ when not sharing the transfer with others. No problem with the border check. It took us around 4 hrs to get to the argentinian side, where everyone was super friendly as well. They offered us to camp there, but we decided to make it to Lago Puelo, which took us 2 more hrs. The landscape changes significantly on the other side where everything is more dry. No problem with the river crossing. We got off the trail directly on the main road.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07 / 7 days / hiking / SOBO / Cochamó - Lago Puelo / Anna & Christopher '''

We hitchhiked from Eco Camping El Valle to the entry of the park and arrived around 8 am. We told them that we would camp at the Refugio El Arco and explained our further route. Until la Junta there were lots of chilenean tourists, therefore the path was very good only with some muddy stretches. Like Véronica we walked to Toboganes, a waterfall/stream with beautiful rock formations. There were tons of people, but it's worth it. La junta seems to be an amazing place for rock climbing, we would have loved to have some climbing gear with us.

After la Junta there were almost no more hikers. We camped next to the Refugio, as there were already two other groups of hikers sleeping in the Refugio.

Until Lago grande there are still some muddy stretches and blowdowns, but generally it is a good path. From there on the path is perfectly maintained. We camped at approx. km 66 next to Río los Morros.

Nice path until El Manso. We resupplied at the minimercado and camped next to the river, which was a beautiful camping spot with lots of delicious blackberrys.

The next morning we arrived at Señora Ocos house around 8 am. She contacted multiple people and luckily found out that there was somebody crossing the river to our side at 11 am. The man, whose name we unfortunately forgot, was super friendly and dropped us off after the river mouth of Rio Traidor, close to where he lives. He charged 10.000 CLP p.p.

The path to the first settler was mediocre and afterwards got worse and worse until it was almost pure buschwhacking. It was the worst we had so far on the GPT. Thorns.. Lots of thorns tearing away at your clothes, backpack and skin.
We camped at the river at approx. km 12, which was a beautiful spot.
Until the settlement Las Nieves the path continued beeing bad with lots of bush bashing. The settler told us that no locals use that path and she also told us that there are no regular boat transfers to Puerto Urrutia on weekends (it was sunday..).
We wouldn't do that stretch next to Rio Puelo again and instead hitchhike from El Manso to Puerto Urrutia.

At the boat transfer waypoint to Puerto Urrutia we had Entel service and contacted one lodging on the other side. They told us to go to the last house 1km back to ask for a transfer (it's the house of the man who does the boat transfer on weekdays). But we got lucky and a boat passed by and took us to the other side. The man on the boat also told us that the path from Río Traidor to Puerto Urrutia "is closed".

We continued to Lago verde, where we planned to camp, but it's surrounded by dense forest, apart from a private property.
That spot is amazing, a little landing stage to go swimming, a great view and a very friendly owner. She even baked some delicious apple bread for us. For camping she charged us 8000 CLP p.p.. That was definetly worth it.

After Lago verde there is a minimarket. We didn't check it out, but there is no resupply wp yet.

After reading previous blogs and having had enough of thorns we decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard. We also got his number (+56958694897), if you want to contact him in advance. When we arrived at the lake, there were already lots of people waiting for the boat so we just waited with them and after some time got knocked the boat with them. The ride was really nice across the crystal clear blue water and we were charged 5000 p.p.

From the southern end of the lake it's just a couple of minutes to walk to the chilenian border control. We continued on and camped at km 30 at the river. Again a really beautiful spot.

The next day we passed the argentinian border control and continued to Lago Puelo.

The section was really beautiful, except the part with the thorns. There are lots of streams along the whole trail, so one does not need to carry much water.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Feb-02 / 5 days / hiking / NOBO / RR mostly / Frank'''

I got the bus-ferry-bus from Puerto Montt to Segundo Corral. To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas & delays with the river ferries I walked on the road from Segundo Corral to El Manso, about 50KM. Easy but not very interesting walking. It takes a full day to get from Puerto Montt on the bus to Segundo Corral so I believe it would be better to go SOBO with an early start to get through La Junta, otherwise you need 2 additional days for travel.

Stayed @ nice & cheap campsite at bridge over Rio Colorado & camped at El Arco. The trail approaching El Arco was muddy & a bit swampy (it had been raining). It's possible to go by boat across Lago Vidal Gomez but it's an easy 3 hour walk.

Got the bus again to Segundo Corral & ferry to Paso Bolson. The trail across the border is generally in good condition. There is some easy bushbashing on the Chilean side for about 1KM before the border & some fallen trees but they are straightforward to go over. Rio Azul was easily fordable in early February.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-14 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR, also GPT22-01 / Véronica '''

Route: Cochamó - La Junta - Lago Vidal Gormáz - El Manso - Puerto Urrutio via Option 1 - Lago Las Rocas - Lago Puelo (Argentina)

The borders of Paso El León and Paso El Bolsón are both opened again for tourists! Go for it! It is a beautiful section with wonderful people, such a contrast to where I started the GPT further north.

In Cochamó, I stayed at Eco Camping El Valle, right at the entrance to the Cochamó River Valley. Paid 7000 clp, very nice campground, there are tarps over the picnic tables at each site so you have a dry place to hang out even if it rains :) Since I spent the night so close to the trailhead, it was easy to get to the guarded valley entrance (Road End {22N} [109.8/58]) early. I did not have a camping reservation for La Junta. I arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 a.m., explained my route to the staff, saying I would stay at Refugio El Arco that night. They let me through no problem. The trail to La Junta is a bit muddy, but nothing bad, my feet stayed dry in my trailrunners despite the fact it was also raining off and on. Beautiful path through the Valvidian rainforest, I really enjoyed all the green and the moss. When I reached the La Junta area, I stashed my pack in some trees and made a short detour to Las Toboganes. They are only 0.7 km off the regular route, and highly worthwhile to see! What a spectacular area, I totally see the Yosemite resemblence, and would love to go back someday.

I found the trail after La Junta (all the way to Lago Vidal Gormáz) to be in good shape, contrary to what others have written. It was maybe slightly less maintained than the popular trail leading into the valley, but it was still very clear and easy to follow — not overgrown, no blowdowns, just a bit muddy in some places. Granted, it has been drier than normal so far this summer. None of the fords went above my knees, and sometimes I could cross the creeks without even getting my feet wet, all very easy.

The refugio at El Arco is dark and without any furniture inside. I found it much nicer to camp in the nearby meadow just south of the trail there. There are outhouses.

Nice path from Lago Vidal Gormáz all the way to El Manso. Very beautiful in this valley as well. Met a few arrieros along the way. Most of the rivers have bridges crossing them. There is a small camp at the bridge over Río Colorado.

In El Manso, I topped off my food supply at the shop on the main road. It has a good selection of food items. Then I went to Señora Oco's house to try and arrange a boat transfer over Río Puelo. She and her family are very friendly and welcoming. I arrived there mid-afternoon, but she could not get in radio contact with anyone on the other side. In the evening, we heard back from Hospedaje Nancy, who charged 60,000 clp for a crossing upriver all the way to Río Traidor (where she lives). This I found too expensive for me traveling alone. Señora Oco baked some bread and I was able to buy some. She also said I was welcome to camp in the fields behind her house while waiting for a response from settlers Paulina and Jovino regarding a crossing to their place (much more direct and therefore likely much cheaper). The next morning, we still hadn't received any response from Paulina and Jovino either via radio or Whatsapp (they may have been away). Because of this, I decided to take the gravel road to Puerto Urrutia (Option 1), and forgo crossing Río Puelo, unfortunately. Despite this setback, I'm really glad I got to meet and spend time with Señora Oco and her family, they are such kind people.

I was able to hitch most of the way to Puerto Urrutia, where I rejoined the regular route. The trail from there all the way to Lago Las Rocas is mostly easy and clear. There were a few confusing junctions in the vicinity of Lago Verde, so I kept a close eye on the GPS there. After crossing the road after that, the beginning of RR -TL-V {22S} [2.8/7.1+2.7] is tricky to find. There are lots of fallen trees and many forest paths. The GPS was very helpful there too until I finally found the right path. After about 700 m it merges with a nice clear path all the way to Lago Las Rocas.

As has been previously reported, there is a large rockslide about 2 km in once you reach Lago Las Rocas. It didn't look overly dangerous to me, the boulders were large and seemed solid enough. I started crossing it right at the bottom where the rocks fall into the lake, as it looked to be the easiest and safest way across. I was maybe 50 meters through it, when a boat came along, and the people in it told me to hop in! What lucky timing! As we passed the rest of the rockslide, I could see the last part of it was steep, loose scree rather than big boulders. That part would have definitely been nerve-wracking to cross, and I was very grateful for the boat ride. The settlers who owned the boat live about 3 km along the trail, at a little bay/inlet in the lake. They have a nice beach and campground too. That's where I rejoined the trail. Beyond their house, the "Camino Los Mosquitos," as it is locally called, gets progressively worse in terms of overgrowth and blowdowns. The trail has not been cleared since the past winter, and not been used either. The stretch between kilometers 4 and 6.5 is the worst. It felt more like pure bushwhacking than following a trail. The path was mostly burried beneath walls of downed trees and branches, it got very hard to follow at times. Lots of climbing over and under vegetation, some of it quite thorny too. Very slow and tiring. My pack got ripped up a bit and so did my clothing. Had I known the trail was this bad, I would have taken the option on the east side of Lago Las Rocas. It's hard to imagine it could be in worse shape than the regular route.

When I got to the Chilean Border Control it was around 6:30 p.m., so too late to cross that day. The border agent working there was very friendly, but he couldn't get in contact with his supervisor to get approval for stamping my passport with the next day's date. So I camped back at Lago Las Rocas, and the next morning came back at 8 a.m. when the border post reopened. The trail on the Chilean side of the border was a bit rough in places, it has been neglected since the winter too. But it was not as bad as the previous stretch along Lago Las Rocas. Once I got into Argentina, it got much better. The trails in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo are well-maintained, and I met some day hikers. No issues at the Argentine Border Control.

I was able to ford Río Azul easily, thanks to the dry weather. There are three branches of the river to cross (the GPS waypoints only show two of them). The middle branch is the widest and deepest. The water there went up to my upper thighs (I'm 165 cm), but the current was slow and it never felt dangerous.

Now I'm skipping down to GPT32 to continue my adventure further south :) The northern sections that I hiked from 6 to 22 were simply amazing, with great weather almost the entire time. Thank you, all!

* '''2022-Oct-19 to 2022-Oct-24 / 6 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / ???'''

Here are the main points because our story is long :)
Paso el bolson and El Leon are closed for tourists until further notice
Some of trails are in bad condition because of the hard winter but they might be cleared in the following weeks.
Landslide in Lago Las rocas - very dangerous part to cross. We suggest to take an optional route

The trail starts in valle cochamo. We did not have any reservations but as we were in low season we were not worried. However the lady from the tourist office in Cochamo told us to arrive at the entrance of the valley between 7 & 8 to avoid being rejected. At 7h50 there was nobody at the reception so we did not have any trouble, but we cannot say for the high season.
You can arrange a car transfer to go the valley entrance. The numbers of the drivers are available at the tourist office.

The trail until La Junta is muddy but well maintained - no worries there. Up there we met some arrieros and the locals from the camping and they told us that the trail was closed a bit further because of snow (up to 2 meters) in laguna Blanca. This is the highest part of the trail (about 1100m). The river crossings were feasible, but as they forecasted rain for the next day, we preferred to turn back in order to avoid being blocked between high rivers and snow.

Back on the road between Cochamo and Puelo, we caught at about 10:30 the bus that leaves at 7:45 from Puerto Montt, to go to Rio Manso. There is a well furnished Shop where you can even find gas.
We remained in the Southbound direction and went to Senora Oco's house. She was very welcoming, and her and her grandchild helped us in arranging a boat transfer for the following morning (nothing was possible the same day). We paid 50000 pesos to go from their house to Rio Traidor - close to Nancy hospedaje. Indeed, we skipped the first part of the trail as they told us that it was very closed with a lot of small trees and not used anymore. Maybe it would be cheaper to cross a bit south using the cable car or directly from Manso to Rio Traidor.

Until the Rio Tigre, settler # 22N [7.7/157], the trail is visible but sometimes with some obstacles (fallen trees). After this settling, you will have to cross the Rio Tigre which might be the hardest to cross on your way if you have a lot of rain. There is a bridge indicated on the tracks but it has been swept away this winter. The best place to cross is a bit higher following the river, follow the horse track. We did not have any problem crossing, and probably the settler could help you with his horse if the river is too high. That is an advantage of the Southbound direction.

After, the trail is really clear. We found the last transfer across Rio Puelo about 1 km before the point indicated on the track. It is his job to do the crossings and he also does sportive fishing if you are interested. Look for a house with a border collie with a piece of wood around the neck :)

From Puerto Urrutia, the trail is clear again until the road. There is a shop at 600m on the right. Again here, the trail is closed due to fallen trees at the beginning, but the locals (last house on the right) will help you find another path. Clear trail until Lago Las Rocas.

Once you reach the Lago Las rocas you will be blocked after 2km. Indeed there was a landslide this winter and you have to cross a very dangerous part of about 300 m of rocky mountain slide. It is not stabilized yet. We went through but we do not advise it.
Also, there were a lot of fallen trees and the path was really tiring. The locals will probably clear the path in the following weeks. To get more information we suggest to contact the camping Playa Las Rocas on Instagram.
You can also consider the other routes or arrange a boat crossing.

Finally we arrived at the border crossing. Unfortunately it was closed due to the Covid, except for the very locals (people from Cochamo). Apparently Paso el Leon is closed as well for tourists. Be aware of that if you have to cross the Chilean- Argentinian borders, as small passes seem to be closed for tourists.
In the end we had to go back to Puerto Montt crossing the Lago inferior with a free boat (ask the carabineros), and then the bus-ferry-bus from Segundo Corral.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Nov-23 & 2021-Nov-25 / 2 days / Packrafting / SOBO / Estuario de Reloncavi from Ralun to Rio Puelo (Western shore) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Ubilla'''

We paddled in two easy days the roughly 40 km southbound.

Start at Ralun at Puente Petrohue: On the right side of the bridge (view in river flow direction) is a suitable put-in and good spot to camp. The gate was closed but not locked. There are signs of people occasionally camping there.

Ralun to Cochamo: Packrafters in need to resupply can do this in Cochamo about 16 water kilometers from the put-in. Both, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking. The western side is less intervened and more scenic.

Ralun to Rio Puelo: Again, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking but requires the crossing of a 4 km wide bay in open water. The western side is less intervened and more scenic but requires crossing the 3 km wide Estuario de Reloncavi near Rio Puelo. On the western side are also the Termas de Sotomo that are suitable for camping.

Wind: On nice sunny days “viento sur” often kicks in around 10 am making southbound paddling difficult or unfeasible. We had two partially overcasted days and could paddle on the first day till 4 pm when wind became annoying strong. On the second day around 3 pm the wind and waves became unpleasant but by this time we were walking the final kilometers into Rio Puelo.

GPT22: Southbound packrafters may take in Cochamo or Rio Puelo the bus to Lago TaguaTagua an get to the recommended packrafting starting point of section GPT22 halfway into this section to Flip-Flop as recommended.

* '''2021-NOV-18 / 1 day / hiking / NOBO / Cochamó Valley (Lago Tagua Tagua - Lago Grande) / Tobías '''

The Section between La Junta Base and Lago Vidal Gormez was very challenging. It had been raining a lot, so the Trail was very muddy and I had to cross several rivers and creeks. Went straight from Cochamó to Lago Grande and camped there in some Snow. Met only a few settlers. After reaching Lago Vidal Gormez, the Trail was easy and I enjoyed the hike a lot. Amaizing área up there!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-FEB-18 to 2020-FEB-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler '''
I didn’t have problems getting a campsite at la junta on the spot luckily. AMAZING area that I’ll be returning to again to do all the day hikes in. Aside from that, most the trail was very muddy, rainy, and unmaintained. This got a bit difficult after the 3rd day in a row. Good places to camp at the lakes over the pass SOBO. When I got down to Lago Vidal Gomez the trail improved.. I got some bread from a settler at the start of the lake. There right on the trail and super friendly and have rooms. The last ferry across Tagua Tagua leaves at 7 pm. I didn’t make it, so I slept underneath the office/bathrooms and took the ferry at 8:00 the next morning. I believe there’s another ferry at 12.

* '''. 2020-Jan-09 to 2020-Jan-11 / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

Despite the austere warnings on the La Junta Camping website, I was able to make a reservation at short notice in high season, and the back and forth process only took a few hours. In Cochamó, I was warned that due to recent rain the river crossings at El Arco and another nearby river would likely be impassable. With four more days of heavy rain forecast, I decided to take the bus-ferry-bus combo to Puerto Urrutia and try to walk northbound from there with the optimistic hope that by the time I reached El Arco the river would be passable or, at least, the wait would be less. However, 10km north of the Rio Puelo crossing (service starts at 9am) my way was blocked by a high and fast river. I then retraced my steps and completed the rest of the section southbound - which was straightforward. The trail on the west side of Lago de la Roca until the frontera is a bit overgrown but still easy to see and nothing particularly slowed me down. On the Argentinian side the trail is well maintained. It is not permitted to camp on the 12km stretch between the border posts. I arrived too late to cross that day, but the Chileans stamped my passport with the next day’s date so I didn’t have to wait for the post to open at 9am. The Argentinian border guards informed me that because of the rain, the Rio Azul was too high to ford at the point on the regular hiking route just before Lago Puelo so I took the alternative route (Oh-Tl-V@22-04-#001) a few kms north and crossed over the La Pasarela bridge.

* '''2020-Jan-22 to 2020-Jan-26 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / parque de la vallee de Cochamo - La Pasarella / Arnaud '''

As we arrived from Puerto Montt we were with the bus and stopped directly at the entrance of the private parque de la vallee de Cochamo.
As it is private, there are some rules to get in, or they block you at the control point.
The entrance is free but you need to have a reservation in one of the official camp sites there. To get the reservation, you can do it on internet (but you need to wait for the confirmation and it can be several days long), or do it directly there (red house), they give you the reservation voucher if there are places available (number seem to be limited). Then you pay the night when you reach the camp sites (6000 clp/pers).
Or the other solution is to say that you sleep in the refugio del Arco. It is 23km further after the control. Then it is free and no reservation is needed, but this is possible only before 10am (after they block you). After 10am the only way to pass is to sleep in the camp sites. They block you if you do not have a
reservation voucher for one camp site.
This spot (la Junta) is famous among the chilenos so the access to the camp sites is really overrunned. The path is easy to walk.
Once you go further than the campsites, you're alone, so it is better.
The path is clearly marked. There are bridges for most of the rivers you cross. But it is very muddy.
At the lago Vidal you can resupply a bit with those living there (you can also sleep in their camp sites).
In El Manso you can find a minimarket with lots of things.
Then, we decided to follow the road instead of the track because we were in a hurry with a deadline in El Bolson, until we reached la cruce de la rocas. There are buses or hitchiking is easy.
Crossing borders was easy. There are 12km between the chilean stamp and the Argentin one that we did in 3.5 hours.
At the very end we have not not crossed El Rio Azul, we walked 7 more km to the north to reach La Pasarella.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*In Cochamo go down towards the lake. There is a church on the left & before you reach it there is a hospedaje on the right, good & cheap.

Really nice Cafe (Materia Cochamo) with a good selection of coffee, cake (Kuchen) & sandwiches ca 50 meters before turning right to the cheap campsite.

*There is a good place to stay NOBO 500 metres before the junction where the road turns towards Laguna Las Rocas. Farmhouse on RHS of road has rooms & meals. Cheap, friendly & good

*In Segundo Corral there are two campsites. The first one is just before the school, it just says Kuchen but you can camp there. Cheap, nice family & they do meals. There is a campsite after the school but the owner was drunk & looking for an argument.
Lots of campsites at Lago Totoral (on the road, not on RR)
It's possible to camp near the Argentinian border control.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2023 / Martin & Helena
We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

*Zapatoria Puerto Varas.He is located in the back corner of a market like building across the street from the Santa Isabella on San Bernardo street. San Bernardo & Del Salvador. I payed extra (10mil total) to have them finished and ready to go that day

=Transport to and from Route=

* December 2025
Bus company Rio Puelo leaves every day at 8:00 from the Bus Terminal in Puerto Montt (booth #47) to Cochamo and onwards. We were there at 7:40 and by 7:42 the bus was already almost completely full on a Monday morning. So it might be a good idea to arrive early. Their buses leave from "gates" (andenes) 38-40. It seems there are one or two other companies that also have salidas at 12:00 and 15:00 though I'm not sure they always exist, the day before (Sunday) the 15:00 bus was cancelled. Better double check. The booths of the other companies that have buses are next to the booth of Rio Puelo.

* February 2023 / Gerald
Bus lago puelo - El bolson:
According to the timetable the bus is leaving from the lake every full hour from 7am till midnight

* January 2023 Frank
To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas you can walk on the road or get the bus to Segundo Corral then from Lago Inferior about 1.5KM from Segundo Corral there is a ferry to Paso Bolson (Chilean border control).The government subsidised ferry runs Monday-Friday only from 8-12 & 2PM-6PM & is only 2000 pesos. You need to radio the ferryman to arrange pickup, easily done in Segundo Corral.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
We decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard (+56958694897),we were charged 5000 p.p.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023 / Martin & Helena
From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake.

*Northbound and southbound hiking is feasible. However, due to the controlled private southbound access through the La Junta área, hiking in that direction is only possible with a camping reservation, or by arriving at the checkpoint before 10am. A northbound traverse may therefore be preferred. For hikers generally heading south, it is possible to take the single ticket, half-day bus-ferry-bus combination south from Cochamó to Puerto Urrutia, hike the 120km north to Cochamó, then return to Puerto Urrutia and resume the section southwards from there.

*Crossing the border is typically straightforward, however it is not permitted to camp on the 12km between the border posts. So if you arrive too late to cross, it is necessary to camp at the border post and cross the next day. In this situation, Chilean officials will stamp your passport with the next day’s date so you don’t need to wait for the office to open that morning.

*Southbound access to the popular La Junta area is controlled at a private checkpoint and only granted to those with a prior camping reservation, or those arriving before 10am and therefore early enough to make it on to the free and unmanaged El Arco campsite 23km away. Reservations for La Junta can be made online at cochamo.com, but there may not be availability and the process may take several days, so hiking this section southwards may not be possible.Therefore, an option for hikers generally heading south is to take the bus-ferry-bus combination from Cochamó across Lago Tagua Tagua and on to Puerto Urrutia, hike 120km north back to Cochamó, then take the bus-ferry-bus south again and hike the remainder of the section southwards from Puerto Urrutia.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT22 - Cochamó]]

=Images=

[[Archivo: | ]]

{| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
|+'''GPT22: Cochamó'''
| colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT22: Cochamó
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
| colspan="2" | D: Lagos Chilenos
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''160.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''51 h'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''136.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''35 h'''
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
| colspan="2" | Chile & Argentina: Los Lagos (X) & Chubut
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|137.9 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|85.9%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 20.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|14.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
| colspan="2" | Cochamó
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|10.8 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.7%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.3%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
| colspan="2" | Lago Puelo (Puerto)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|9.7 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.0%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.0%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
| colspan="2" | Published & Verified
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|2.2 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|1.4%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.4%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
| colspan="2" | Dec - Apr (Maybe: Sep, Oct, Nov, May)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
| colspan="2" | Very Useful
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.8 km)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.1%)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
| colspan="2" | GPT21, GPT23
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.9 km)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.4%)
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
| colspan="2" | 268 km (9 Options & Variants)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
| rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''111.1 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''81.4%'''
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 5 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 62.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 45.7%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 32.4 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 23.7%
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|Both ↓↑
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 16.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|11.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
| colspan="7" | Hiking: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
| colspan="7" | Packrafting: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
| colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Sea Coast, Farmland, Settlers, River Packrafting, Lake Packrafting, Fjord Packrafting, Partly Overrun
|}

[[File:profile GPT22.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

[[File:profile GPT22-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT22 (Cochamo)

2025-12-15T19:41:27Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
* General advice : The Regular Route is best hiked between December and April. The primary obstacles are high river levels early in the season and after rain. During the peak period of January and February it may be difficult to obtain a camping reservation at La Junta which could prevent a southbound traverse (but people were usually let through when they say they go all the way to El Arco).

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-12-07 to 2025-12-11/ 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO+EABO / 21-01 + RR + 21-04A (Packraft El Callao to Rio Blanco) + 21-04 + 21-02 + 21-02B (Refugio Viejo) / Antoine B'''

A section mostly in forest trail with nice highlights: Laguna Questros for camping, crossing Lago de Todos los Santos and sleeping on an isolated beach, ascending El Tronador, enjoying hot spring and isolated farms.

Attractivity: 4
Difficulty: 3 (long forest sections)

Day 1:
Coming from GPT20, I started at las Gaviotas around 18.30 and finished the day hiking up to Laguna Los Questros. Very pleasant path uphill. I met a horse rider coming from la Laguna, who asked for 10k for camping over there. I wasn't sure if he was the owner but paid 5k CLP (it's just a good flat ground with a pit, dry toilets maybe). La Laguna is a great spot to camp and swim in the lake, no one there but birds and cows.

Day 2:
Long day walking on forest trails with tabanos. 2 farms on the way but no one there. Arrived around 18 at Lago de Todos los Santos and packrafted SE for 2.5h until nightfall (barely no wind, clear sky, lucky conditions). The evening light were charming and the surrounding landscapes reminded of many places (Fuji for Osorno, Garda & Annecy lakes)....
Camped on a lovely isolated beach (-41.117963 ; -72.127518), close to the referenced waypoint. Splendid spot.

Day 3:
On the water around 10:30 for 2-3h, a bit of tail wind accelerating me. It wasn't possible to access the last bit in the river meadows (not enough water) and Rio Blanco has too much current, not worth the effort. So I landed in the muddy/woody shore, where a neighbour just left by boat (-41.15470, -72.09983). Short walk along the shore before joining the trail in the forest. Nice walk in the valley, then lots of forest trail, I went eastward towards Tronador and ended up by nightfall at the hot spring spot, by the river close to the farms (thanks for the tips shared here, really a memorable place). Camping ground is perfect.

Day 4:
Started at 12, walked to the 2nd farm and met 4 carabineros visiting the farmer. We hiked back to the puesto together (4h). We sympathized and they invited me for dinner. Lovely company, great memories. Camped at the puesto, free, water available and a little stream for washing. Good news: they just got equipped with solar panel so no more noisy diesel generator as of now.

Day 5:
Relaxing hike up to Refugio Viejo (option 02B), at fast pace (1h30 up). Loved the views (and not carrying any backpack). It's quite fresh and was super windy up there so worth carrying jacket + sun glasses (very reflective with the glaciers). The CC path beyond the refuge, to the edge of the cliff is indeed not to be missed. Ran down in 45mn, amazing feeling after 2 weeks with a 25kg backpack. After chatting again with the carabineros, it took me 3-4h of forest trail to end up in Pampa Linda (17:00). Gendarmería is after the bridge, last building leaving the place. Smooth entry but the bus left (17:00 I think). Hitchhike was not successful for 30mn and I met cool people staying at the camping Vuriloche (~30k ARS if I recall) so I joined them for the night and they drove me the next day to Bariloche.

* '''2025-11-28 to 2025-12-02 / 5 days / Packrafting / NOBO / RP (partial) + Option 8 (Rio Ventisquiero) (partial) / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 01: we got the 8AM bus from Puerto Montt to Lago Tagua-Tagua (7000 CLP), ferry (1340 CLP) and the bus to Primera Coral (2000 CLP), arriving at about 3PM. We followed Option 8 alongside the Rio Ventisquero on a 4x4 track. We stashed our food where the train meets the river for the first time -41.99928, -71.93188. The side stream Rio Correntoso at -42.01706, -71.94015 was a little too deep to ford so we used the packrafting to ferry across. After the crossing the 4x4 trail ended and the trail was tricky to follow. Eventually you’ll find yourself in farmland at -42.02391, -71.95023 with lots of barbed wire fences. We made the mistake of descending down to the river to camp.

Day 02: The farm is very easy to navigate - you should head straight for the gate by the building at -42.02519, -71.94891, then exit the farm through the gate at -42.02704, -71.94878. This then joins a very good trail which continues all the way along Rio Ventisquiero. We didn’t quite get all the way along the GPX track, deciding to get on the river at about the 15km point: -42.01938, -72.05608. The paddle down Rio Ventisquiero was absolutely stunning. Mostly grade 1 rapids, with a couple of easy grade 2 sections. Very little wood in the river made the paddle stress free. After picking up our food stash we continued to the confluence and on down Rio Puelo to a camp at -41.96241, -71.91332, which was secluded but just sand so pegs had to be reinforced with rocks. We got Entel 3G coverage at this camp site.

Day 03: The Rio Puelo was beautiful, but lots of wood in the water meant we were kept on our toes. We exited the river as indicated and found a relatively well defined trail. This continued as far as the farmland at -41.88868, -71.96327. After that the trail was very difficult to follow and very overgrown. We made use of our machete and made very slow progress for a couple of hours. Gradually the trail got better but we only managed to get about half way through this section before calling it a day. We found an excellent camp site next to the big rapid at -41.85605, -71.98205.

Day 04: We put in directly after the main rapid at -41.85389, -71.98136. There were three other rapids to portage:

1: -41.85020, -71.97891, grade 3.

2: -41.83783, -71.97900, grade 3.

3: -41.83532, -71.97799, grade 2.

We portaged #1 on the rocky beach on the left. This was simple, but the large rocks made portage difficult.

Rapid #2 is not visible on our satellite images, and we believe is it newly formed from landslides from the creek on the right of the river. It was easily portaged on the right. We needed to paddle hard to ferry across to the beach above #3 on the left.

Rapid #3 is at the start of the right channel of an island. There is also a smaller rapid at the start of the left channel. You should portage the rapids from the island. We portaged #3 on the left or the right channel. On inspection, both channels around the island would have been ok to paddle, but visibility down the right channel was better, so that’s what we chose.

After these rapids, the rest of the days paddle was very relaxing in comparison. There was quite a bit of wood in the river, but as the river widened be became easier to avoid. We reached the ferry terminal at 18:00 and waited for the 19:00 ferry. It wasn’t until the next morning we realised we were at the wrong location, and the ferry terminal was 5 minutes walk down the road.

Wrong location (toilets): -41.69748, -72.11422

Correct location for ferry: -41.69885, -72.11884

We slept in the unmanned building at -41.69748, -72.11422 which made a great shelter for the night, and had lights, flushing toilets, running water and power outlets.

Day 05: we got on the river at a great spot 500m from the ferry terminal at -41.64383, -72.17079. The river is straightforward apart from the rapid section as mentioned in the waypoints. We almost had a disaster and lost a paddle where one of the streams was blocked with wood. After an hour of searching we eventually found it. I don’t have any recommendations for a safe route through this section. There are several rapids, max grade 2+, but very shallow and rocky. The shallows were rocky and covered in algae, so very slippery.

The waypoint instructions to stay right is a good plan, but would involve lots of hauling your raft over rocks. Some of the rapids might be possible to paddle depending on your boat and water levels. Take care because there’s a lot of wood in this section!

After the rapids, the river widens and is much more relaxing. We exited the river and finished the section at -41.65247, -72.30067. We missed our bus so stayed overnight in an outstanding cabin in Puelo at -41.66261, -72.29580 for 40k CLP (https://maps.app.goo.gl/B8nh4TJS3Tw5aXFq9 WhatsApp: https://wa.me/56996127975).

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-02 / 2,5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / OP (02A) / 02D / RH / 22S / Daniel.s'''

In short: from Cochamó by public transport to near Lago Azul, then Lago Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, Lago Puelo

Day 1:
Bus from Cochamó to Lago Tagua Tagua leaves every day between 10 and 10:30 (coming from Pto. Montt). From there you hop directly onto the ferry and from the ferry you can take the next bus towards Segundo Coral (hop off anywhere you want, just let the driver know). I got off at "acceso Lago Azul" by Lago Totoral X {22-01} [25.0/187] and started hiking. The land owner charges (in my opinion illegally) 6k clp for access to the lake. Once up at the lake it depends on the wind if it's safe to paddle. I had low winds, was on the other side in ~2hrs. Camped at the beach S 41° 58.959', W 071° 50.706'.

Day 2:
Hiked the short section to Lago Las Rocas, strong tailwind already in the morning. Reached Carabineros at noon (they're open till 8pm), no Salvoconducto needed. They email PDI and get a reply before he finishes filling out the paperwork. Camping between borders is an option (around 2kms after Chilean border post) needs to be communicated with Carabineros. Paddling Lagos Inferior and Puelo is also allowed. I opted to hike until Lake {22S} [26.8/213], because of too strong winds on Lago Inferior. Lago Puelo is a little sheltered in the beginning, no problem paddling until Argentinian border post (open 8am till 8pm). Immigration no problem, camped there.

Day 3:
Wind picked up over night and waves were massive, so paddling was not an option. Hiked the 7 kms to the National Park entrance S 42° 05.344', W 071° 37.075' on RH (no issues there, it's a popular trail), bus leaves from there to Lago Puelo village and El Bolson every full hour until midnight (yes, I double checked, midnight) The bus driver was happy to change CLP or USD (small amount) do i vould psy the fare. You get everything you need in Lago Puelo village.

==Season 2024/25==

* '''2025-03-05 to 2025-03-15 / 11 days (2 days rest) / Hiking+horse+boats / RR 22N+Valle Verde+22S / Dorota'''

This stage was exceptional due to the people I have met on my road.

Day 1:
I took Uber from Ralun to the entrance to Valle Cochamo (20.000 clp, +56 9 9866 2101 Miguel). I was there at 8:58, so I still had 2 minutes to enter. I said that I would like to go to Arco. I have registered and got a lot of information about the route. On the road to La Junta I met Ariero, Javier. He was returning to his house in Valle Verde. He took part of my luggage. The trail was muddy. There were some tourists but not too many. Two boys were looking for a girl who had lost last night on the trail near Junta. Rio La Junta (98.9) till knee for women of 1.64 cm and Rio Traidor (97.4) also. I spent the night at Milico (Ariero said to me about this place) before the Arco (-41.42665,-72.05549). Water from Rio Cochamo.

Day 2:
It started to rain in the night. The trail was very moody. It was a really hard day. As I know, Javier and I were the only persons who made this day stage from el Arco to Laguna Vidal. We started at 7. Rio El Arco had a water level to my knee. But at 12 a.m I had a big problem crossing the river [80.9]. There was no bridge. I tried two times, but I resigned. In the middle, the current was too strong and the water was to my waist. I waited one hour, rested a little, and crossed the river. But it was really demanding. The night ended at the end of Laguna Dial, in Casa de Dona Luisa. The night, dinner, and breakfast cost 31,000 clp. I met a group of Argentinos who had waited for better weather.

Day3:
I had an invitación to the house of Javier at Valle Verde at Morros. It is 5 km from the trail. It was the next day with rain, so I was happy that I had a roof. Javier is a local guide. He can organize horse trips and pesca, and also has hospedaje. @cabalgatasypescavalleverde, +56 9 4945 9601.

Day4: rest en Valle Verde.

Day5:
I came back to trail on horse with Javier. It was amazing because it was my first time on horseback. I survived 17 km on horseback, also crossing a river. After that, I walked to Steffen. I spent the night at 53.5km. Here is a "fugon" house with a place for a fire. Here, I met arrieros de Lago Vidal. They invited me for asado and wine. In the night, it was raining.

Day6:
I crossed Rio Steffen (till knee) without a problem. In the morning it was raining, after that it was sunny. In mini shop 43.0 you can buy a lot of things. I asked for a boat to cross Rio Puelo. Women said to me that I needed to go to cabanas de señora Oco and from there call for a boat. In Manso I took a really good bear. At cabana de senora Oco (Fabian,+56 9 6102 0535 ), a man called for a boat. I went to playa and after one hour came somebody. He took me to the other side for 20.000 clp at point -41.74885,-72.065492. About 1.7 km from the house of Ricardo Garardo (28.9). I put up a tent at -41.76425,-72.05840, close to the house of Ricardo.

Day7:
In the morning, I returned to Ricardo’s house because his three perros followed me. He invited me for breakfast. Finally, I spent the night at his house. In the evening, we collected cows and sheep on his motocross, giving apples to the pigs, and made bread. And also, he showed me how to use the cable car for crossing the river. It was a really interesting day.

Day8:
Ricardo +56 9 6473 8749 took me on his boat to cross Rio Traidor for 30,000 clp. But I have not paid for hospedaje y food. In my opinion, if you take a boat from Playa de Dona Oco, you should like to cross Rio Puelo y Rio Traidor. I continued RR from 24 km. It is a good place for camping at -41.85365, -71.98192. And from this point, you have some bushwalking and till puesto 7.7 km trail is not clear. Wife of Christian invited me for the night. I helped her with carrying different things. We spent a very nice evening together. Her husband was in Puerto Montt.

Day9:
She also said to me that in Puerto Urutia from 9 to 12 and from 15-17 is Dario with a boat for crossing the river 1000 clp. Hostel Puelo Libre is only with a reservation. I took the road to avoid discussion at puesto 7.2.
On the trail I met Roberto (he lives at lago rocas at -42.01945, -71.86015). You can ask him to put up a tent. He crossed with me a landslide. After Laguna Mosquitos the trail is complicated because of fallen trees. Finally I spent the night in the middle of BB but there was no water. (-4×.05604,-71.83066)

Day10:
Day without problems. Crossing borders easy. Control point AR is at 34 km not 30. I spent night at camping agreste.

Day11:
I took variant 22-03 to Lago Puelo at 1.7 km before Rio Azul. Men said to me that he had water level till his hips. At Lago Puelo I have found a fantastic place for stay. Hostel La Estación 15.000 ars for a night. There are a lot of shops. The most economical supermercado is Todo, the most expensive is Anónima. You can withdraw money, a maximum of 60.000 ars with a commission of 14.000 ars.

'''2025-02-01 to 2025-02-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO (partly) / option 8 / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)'''

When we hiked/packrafted the GPT21-GPT22 back in 2013 we had some very nice stays with settlers in the valle ventisquero, so we decided to come back with our kids this season.

We did a 4 day trek starting at rancho Velazquez-Alegria (-42.02312, -71.93288) after an extensive almuerzo with the campesinos which we had not seen since 2013.
There is a bridge over the Rio Correntoso (-42.02938, -71.94279) where you can leave a car, so no need to do difficult ford near the mouth of the ice stream into the ventisquero river.

The first 5km it's all ripio walking where it changes in a trail just next to a ranch. There is nice camping on the river banks at (-42.01151, -72.02404).
There are safe cable crossings for Río Alicia (-42.02393, -72.05756) and Rio Unniverso (-42.03852, -72.12473).
There are several settlers in the valley which offer camping (see picture on FB page, rincon bonita is glamping with fly-in guests, so skip that one). Our objective of the hike was Bernaditta Alegria which offers camping at 6000CLP/person with hot showers included.

Bernaditta also offers half board (delicious food) sleeping in a bed for 45000CLP/pers/night. She has starlink internet nowadays, which is free to use when she puts on the solar battery 2-3 times a day for like half an hour. She still remembers well when we stayed at her ranch back in 2013, because on the night when we camped there, a puma came out of the mountain which killed a sheep somewhere 50m from our tent. It's a lovely place to go with kids.
There are a lot of wasps because of the fruit trees, so in autumn they might become very aggresive.

'''2025-01-25 to 2025-01-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO (partly) / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

* Primer Coral has a very nice campspot. Chance there will be kayakers around doing the upper section of Rio Puelo with class 5 rapids you can watch them paddle it, it's insane.

* I heard there is a cabin you can stay up on Río Ventisquero would be a nice option and you can leave part of your gear/food at the camping. And do an overnight trip. Rio Ventusquero supposed to be very nice.

* I was lucky to go with another group of Kayakers into the Rio Puelo and into the rapids at the Canyon. I had no whitewater experience but the camping owner convinced me it was doable and safe even if I fall. It was nice to paddle the Canyon and the waves felt huge. I had a decked packraft that still filled with water, which was nice and made it more stable.

* So if you are here and get the chance on going with a group of Kayakers into the Canyon and rapids , it will be a nice experience

* First I would continue after the rapids and the pickup would take my backpack. But I decided to go back with the pickup to Primer Coral and continue next day towards Argentinia.

* First part of the trail from primer coral to Lago de Las Rocas is closed the settler there told me. You can join the trail from road V723. But I went from Lago Azul.

- The trail (blue line) towards Lago Azul already started earlier. * From the road at you left side there is already a sign with trail towards Lago Azul.

* Lago de Las Rocas went fast with wind in the back.

* I had to stay at the border crossing because they only had electricity at 7 p.m. to register me. Next morning from 8.00 I could pick up my passport. I did not fill in am online form beforehand and that was no problem.

* I went to the Argentinian border crossing that is indicated at the map. But because I was with a boat they did not let me. I had to get my passport stamped at the maritime office at the end of the lake at the beach of lago Puelo. So if you decide to skip lago Puelo/El Bolson than you better not show that you are by boat and pretend you are walking.

*'''25Jan2024 - 28jan2024 / hiking NOBO / RR (El Manso to Cochamo) / 3 days / Clara'''

From Cochamo to get to El manso, there is the bus - ferry (lake tagua tagua) - bus. First bus pass at Cochamo every day around 10am. It comes from Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas before.
First bus is 3k. Boat 1.3k. 2nd bus 500.

At El manso there are 2 little negocios. In front of the first one there is a cervecería with a nice terrasse, artisanal beer and wifi. Sadly it was closed on this super hot begining of afternoon !
There is an inconstant but working phone coverage there (entel).

Lago Vidal Gomez. Possible to ask at the camping to cross the lake by boat, Francisco do the traverse during summer. 35k that can be devided until 4 people. May make you pay less if he has to go to the other side anyway to get other people. The family here also sell good bread, vegetables, beers, sweets,...

Because of rainy night, I slept on the north side of the lake at the first house. Marguerita has a sort of barn where you can sleep/pitch a tent and also make fire (for 5k). Dry toilets and water.

Then trail was on better conditions than I expected.
Camp sites along lago grande are really nice.
Refugio El Arco is a really good shelter if bad weather (all in wood, nice roof, closing windows).

Between El arco and la junta very muddy trail but nothing impassable even after a rainy night. It just slow down a lot.

The valley is really nice.

La Junta - Cochamo : overrun +++.

There are multiple buses going back to Cochamo from the end of the trail

*'''2025-JAN-20 to 2025-JAN-27 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 01 / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel)'''

Stage 22 is one of the longest sections of the GPT, but from our perspective (also thanks to our route choice), it wasn’t particularly difficult. Due to health issues and plenty of time (we had a scheduled meeting in Bariloche on a specific date), we took the stage quite leisurely.

The first part to La Junta is very busy, with a large number of day hikers. That wasn’t really our thing, so we rushed ahead into the wilderness, which starts right after the camps in La Junta.

In the Rio Puelo valley, due to health issues, we chose Variant 01 and rejoined the RR at Puerto Urrutia at the start of 22S.

The most surprising and interesting stop on the trail for us was meeting señira Alexandra at Lago Verde, where we spent an entire morning on the lake on boats and doing deep water solo climbing. (More details in the BIVOUACING section.)

ENTRY INTO VALLE COCHAMÓ

The first major challenge is entering Cochamó Valley, but it’s not as complicated as it might seem.

The entry checkpoint is at Road End {22N} [109.8/58], and access to the valley is free. However, due to high visitor numbers, there are relatively strict regulations. To be allowed entry, you need to follow these rules:

If you want to camp near La Junta, you must have a reservation through www.reservasvallecochamo.org and bring confirmation of your reservation to the checkpoint. Entry is permitted between 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

If you want to camp at Refugio El Arco, no reservation is needed, but entry is only allowed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.

The time restrictions aren’t enforced too strictly, but you shouldn’t arrive much later. According to locals, it’s also theoretically possible to enter very early in the morning before any staff arrive, avoiding the need to follow these rules.

However, we personally recommend adhering to the official regulations. There are many visitors (often with little or no experience), and if the beauty of this valley is to be preserved, some regulation and monitoring are necessary. This is also why camping outside of the designated campsites in the valley is prohibited.

For GPT hikers, the best option is to enter the valley in the morning, explain your plans, and then hike to El Arco, where there is plenty of space for tents and camping is free. (Although volunteers manage the site and, like at the entry point, record visitor details.) If you follow this approach, there’s no reason you wouldn’t be allowed in, and you will still comply with all the rules.

CHALLENGES

Ford at Rio Traidor {22N} [95.9/340] was very easy. All other fords on this section were also crossable with dry feet, except for the final fords over Rio Azul at the very end.

Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn’t exist, but the river can be crossed on fallen logs.

Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) was washed away. There is a cable car alternative, or you can cross using fallen logs.

At Settler {22S} [7.2/215], a man yelled at us from a house, saying we shouldn’t walk there. He seemed angry, and we didn’t feel like arguing. Instead, we walked a short stretch along the road and then rejoined the trail by climbing over a valley (near coordinates -41.98297, -71.88292). This involved a short bush-bash and crossing a creek on fallen logs.

The trail around Las Rocas is quite overgrown in one section, with many fallen logs. This rough stretch is between km 17.8 {22S} (-42.05306, -71.83367) and km 19.9 {22S} (-42.06622, -71.81971). We believe it may be possible to bypass this section using other trails, as well-maintained paths connect before and after it, but we didn’t try it ourselves and just bush-bashed through.

Border control was quick and completely problem-free on both sides.

BIVOUACING

The first night, we camped at La Frontera Camp at the entrance to Cochamó Valley. It’s a small and very nice eco-camp, where making a reservation is a good idea. Staying here was a special experience for us, as it is run by Pavel, a fellow Czech.

At El Arco, there’s a shelter, though it doesn’t have much sleeping space. However, right next to it is a large grassy area with plenty of room for tents.

At -41.56978, -71.93585 (km ~64.3 {22N}), there’s a beautiful flat campsite with a refugio.

At Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado), there’s a fire pit with benches and a small tent spot.

One night, we camped in the backyard of Valle Puelo Brewery. They let us stay for free, but the roosters woke us up early.

At -41.96567, -71.90571 (Lago Verde), there is a settlement run by a very kind woman named Alexandra and her brother. They offer cabins for rent, but they also allowed us to camp in our tents for 8,000 CLP per person. The price included free kayak rental for a paddle on the lake. We highly recommend staying here. It is also the only reasonable access point to the lake. Elsewhere, the shoreline is covered with dense vegetation or cliffs.

WATER

There is plenty of water available. The trail runs along rivers and crosses many smaller streams.

RESUPPLY

Cochamó has several minimarkets, a hardware store (where you can buy gas cartridge), a pharmacy, post office, and plenty of restaurants and food stalls.

At the Road End {22N} [109.8/58] (Valle Cochamó entry checkpoint), there is a food truck open in summer with fast food, and a small store nearby selling snacks and some basic groceries.

We bypassed Camp La Junta via Toboganes, so we have no info on current shopping options there.

At Lake, Settler, Camp $ {22N} [70.9/602], we bought very good and reasonably priced fresh cheese and beer. They likely have some other basic supplies as well.

Shop {22N} [43.0/49] is operational. It’s small but sufficient for basic resupply.

Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) is a complex of brewery with the best beer we've had in Chile so far. The store is slightly better stocked than the previous one and sells gas cartridges.

Llanada Grande has a fairly large and well-stocked supermarket.

At the start of 22S, there’s a restaurant with its own brewery (Hostal Puelo Libre).

TRANSPORT

A bus from Lago Puelo to El Bolsón runs every hour (around the full hour) and costs 1,800 ARS per person.

* '''2025-01-24 to 2025-01-26/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Option 02, RP, Option 09, Option 03/ Natalie & Tomáš'''

Coming from Cochamo, where we had to organize getting a new neck gasket, we once again set off towards Lago Azul. The bus for the ferry left at 10:30am (around here, -41.49304, -72.30553). It came five minutes after the bus that goes from Puerto Montt to the Cochamo TH. We left Rio Puelo at 12:00 after ten minute break but missed the docked ferry by a minute or two. Only had to wait ~30min for the next one and the busses on the other side were still there. Lots of people, so Entel did not work. The bus did its regular stop at Llande Grande (~10min - they have a very good non industrial salami there) and then we got off where the road to Lago Azul goes around 15:30. We managed to get a hitch quickly, but it was short lived. There is a man watching a gate (7mil for the car owner, nothing for us) and the car was only allowed to go ~1km further (maybe because it wasn't 4-wheel drive, and/ or they only allow certain [local?] people to go all the way, not sure). The road to the lake has recently been "upgraded" and is quite ugly. 02B and 02C are probably roads too, based on satellite and a little foot survey where 02B joins 02A. At the beach there were a stand selling empanadas, a toilet, about 20 people and 4 cars parked. We started paddling around 18:00. First going west for ~600m to check out an alternative trail Tomáš was interested in that is on OSM leading to here: -41.92170, -71.87635. The trail exists, but might be somewhat unused, as there seems to be a new road for cars built above it. Anyway, it looks like a more attractive and shorter approach to Azul, somebody needs to investigate it (we only noticed the trail half way on 02A). The start of the lake outlet (20 m) is magical with its blue-green water, a nice detour. The waves got stronger near the middle of the lake but then eased quickly. Near the end of the lake we had calm water. We camped at a spot we noted last year when hiking: -41.98306, -71.84801. It has a small flowing creek but is near a cottage. Both years of being here we have not seen anyone in it, you can camp in the trees and be mostly hidden. People vacation in tents 200m along the lake shore. Lago Azul is very pretty.

The next day was straightforward. Lago Los Rocas was "reflection-like" calm, despite starting around 11:00. We were worried about the boat and the Chilean Carabineros (read Jan's description in the manual) so we put the boat and equipment into the duffel bag and placed it all outside the Carabineros building, entering without our luggage. Everything went well because the men were nice (same ones from last year). However, we were almost busted when they asked us specifically if we were going to Argentina on foot or by boat. At first we said boat, but then they asked who was taking us, and when we struggled to come up with an explanation, they seemed to take our silence as a language misunderstanding and asked us again, so to make things easier, we said we were walking. We then slipped down using Variant U. If you are uncomfortable about this, it might be worth just putting your boat in your bag and walking the 3km to the next beach along RH. Variant S does not exist. Lago Inferior was once again sadly not windy, we started around 16:00 but no horsepower from the wind.
Tomáš and I had a small misunderstanding about our end goal at the lake. Tomáš wanted to walk up the river to scout the rapids and possibly run them back and I, being completely unaware of the obvious, agreed. I thought we most likely wouldn't run them and just walk on the other OSM trail. What I didn't know was that the river flowed against us, despite looking at satellite images and saying, "why does it look like the rapids are going in the wrong direction?" and noticing it's called"lake inferior". Like I said, unaware of the obvious. When I realized the river went against us I instantly hated the idea, but we were already past the normal take out point, so in the end we went for it. The first longish set of rapids (class II, -42.10240, -71.73502) is north (river right), so you cannot just connect to the OSM trail next to the river. We crossed to southern shore of the river and had a slow 400m walk and 100m paddle up to a point we could safely ferry back to the northern side, -42.10413, -71.73233. It was slow because of the algae/didymo being very slippery and rocks in the river bed having gaps in between them. You will appreciate how easy entrapment could be here if water was deeper and faster. A pole in one hand will greatly improve your stability and also a leash for the boat (walk the dog). We paddled up to the second short rapid(class II+?, -42.10487, -71.72934). Walking along it's side was more involved as we had to lift the boat over some rocks and it was a bit sketchy trusting our dollar store locking carabiners on our leash. The last rapid (class III, -42.10487, -71.72934) was much easier to walk along, once again on our north/river-right. We filled up on water after the last rapid and paddled towards the lake. Surprisingly there was not much wind and the waves only started to be not small just before the Argentinian border patrol, so it was a bit slower than expected.
All in all this option was probably a little slower than just packing your boat and walking to the border control and about as fast as deflating your boat, walking the 2km portage and reinflating your boat. If you are careful, it is not dangerous (slips permitting). When water levels are high, it might be a different story. It took us 75 minutes. If you go down river, NOBO, the first (going from Lago Puelo) rapid had some undercuts, so better walk it down on the right, but the rest can probably be run (after scouting!) or walked.

The camping at the border was once again packed, and this time all toilets were locked or non-functional, pretty gross considering the amount of people. There is a stream on the west side. The evening was quiet but fierce wind picked up around 3am, the wind was better in the morning but still not great. The check-in with Argentina (open from 8 till 20) was very easy and we got our passports stamped. I had a bit of "boat fever" and wanted to walk out, plus I wanted to be conservative with the waves at this lake. Tomáš felt it would be totally manageable so he sailed on down to Lago pueblo and I hiked out to La Pasarela. It was an okay hike with a little bit of water along the way. It was up and down basically the whole way and very warm. La Pasarela is extremely popular. There is a restaurant and a smoothie joint and many other food stands. Somehow I didn't get a hitch. There is a bus stop when you hit the main road around here; -42.05087, -71.59679. I went into town and caught the bus out front the hospital here; -42.05924, -71.59776 @ 14:15. It was 1.700mil and paid only in cash. The earlier bus stop would have been fine. Plum season is almost here, red ones are tart but edible, yellow ones need at least 2-4more weeks.

Tomáš: waves were sizable (75 cm maximum difference top to bottom?), from the camp I had to ferry to get out of the cove, but then I mostly paddled only to keep the boat in the right position and let the wind push me to the lake end. A huge parking lot by the beach, hitching does not work but the bus does.

* '''2025-01-15 to 2025-01-22 / 7 days / Packrafting/ NOBO (flip flop)/ Option 8 (extended), RP / Natalie & Tomáš'''

For hikers: the RR west of Rio Puelo is actually attractive and the part we walked was no bushbashing, do not all shun it :-).

Summary

Last year we were inspired by Tobi and Fangwen's (T&F) trip into the Ventisquero valley and tried but didn't finish due to time and weather. On the flip side, that meant we were able to return this year with a packraft, which made the return trip much more interesting. It is a stunning valley and a beautiful river to be in a packraft (a must for packrafters, Tomáš thinks). There were virtually no tabanos which was a biggie after the mid-January infestation of 20 and 21! Tomáš did the upper Ventisquero river after the view-hike in Rincon Bonito and I chose to go higher on the mountain of the view-hike as T&F considered, both not in GPT yet. The Ventisquero river was easy, class II at most, we hit our knees on occasion. The Upper Puelo before the hike was very easy with a faster flow, just a bit of wood (nothing that couldn't be avoided), probably class l. We skipped the first rapids of the Gorge (6.2), they are surprisingly powerful and should not be paddled by anyone unskilled or without a team. The hike was actually nice, not that overgrown and pretty easy to follow. Tomáš went back into the river a little earlier and skipped the last 6km of hiking. He had to walk one more rapid and ride two. The rest of the Puelo until the lake was once again easy. Upon approaching Lago Tagua the headwind was strong and paddling was slow. We planned to paddle to the parque Tagua (Option 11) but the waves and wind were very strong so we camped and crossed the lake the next morning, skipping the hike. Lake was easy and fast in the morning but the lower Puelo was slow for the first 5km before the rapids. We skipped the first rapid there and went down river right, putting in a bit earlier than Jan suggests, crossing a few small rapids and hitting our knees once. The rest of the lower Puelo was a bit slow but overall the whole thing was very beautiful.

Day zero: the bus

We again took the bus at 8:38 near Hostel Apel in Puerto Varas to Cochamo, we were told the bus that goes to the ferry (Laguna Tagua Tagua) was 10min behind the Cochamo-only bus. The ferry bus supposedly leaves here: 41.3160641S, 72.9853782W at 8:15 and then probably goes around town, taking a long time. The plan was to get off the first bus, look for Tomáš's inReach he had lost and then catch the second bus. Unfortunately, while we were looking for the inReach, the Ferry bus passed and we were unable to stop it, it was the only bus of the day. On the bright side, with more time to spare, Tomáš managed to wake up the land owner of Camp {21} [79.3/7], and it turned out they had found the inReach the day before and gave it back to us, yay! Soon after all of this (~10:15) we were able to catch another bus to Cochamo (later we learnt Cochamo buses leave @ 8,9,10,11,12 and 16:00 from Puerto Montt). In Cochamo, we waited until a bit after 12:00 for a bus to Rio Puelo (but no more buses to the ferry). We reached Rio Puelo at about 13:45. Since both of us were underslept due to Tomáš having spent the night vomitting (and having had little luck with hitchhiking on that road last year), we found a very nice two-room cabaña for 50.000 here: -41.66243, -72.29821, WhatsApp +56 9 4243 2328. (Entel internet in town functional.)

Day one: the bus and the walk, 4 km

The bus from Rio Puelo is said to be at 11:30 but didn't arrive until 12:15. If one is stopping in Puelo for re-supply, there is a small vegan bakery with good sourdough loafs (-41.6599144, -72.2974946; not open Mondays). Also Supermercado El Maiten sold gas canister's for 7mil. By one o'clock and 1.5mil per person shorter, we were at the ferry. There you get out of the bus and catch a new one waiting at the other side (there are two on the other side, be sure to take the correct one). It takes over half an hour and costs 1.3mil (slow but functioning 3G Entel most of the lake ferry, but not at the end, telecom tower at the northern terminal). The ferries are three and at least two of them go 7 times a day each way (December- March), so you are likely to wait less than an hour. The buses on each side of the ferry are coordinated The bus to primer coral costs 1.5mil. It still stops in Llamada Grande (10-15min) and the Entel internet mostly not functioning (receiving e-mails and text messages at most). We got to Primer Corral at 16:00.

Our plan was to stash extra food near Ford 37.5 (not fordable, maybe in February or better March). It seems it is regularly used for camping. We read T&F got their food stolen so we made sure to hide/bury our duffel bag of food very well. Unfortunately, after I hid it and carried on to the first ford, Tomáš met a pig. The pig tried to invade his backpack despite Tomáš only standing a meter away. He realized quickly our food stash had no hope against this invader. Since he did not know where I hid it, he started to pursue me, which only came to fruition at the river "Correntos", which has a fitting name. Therefore our first day was extremely short. Tomáš took both our backpacks across the ford (had to cross up river near the top of the islands where it divides into three: -42.01786, -71.93876 ) and made camp (lots of spots near the OSM path). The river was above his knees (173cm), but the length of the crossing, doing it three times and coldness made it somewhat challenging. I went back to make the duffel pig-proof, taking the OSM route that follows the river in my way (-42.00228, -71.93336). It was a lot nicer than the road, recommended.

Day two: Ford camp to outside Ricon Bonito, 16 km

Since we were both still struggling to get over our stomach bugs, we had a late morning and a very easy day. The simple 16km walk to Ricon Bonito felt a lot harder than it should have. As T&F described this section before, it is partially a MR, with a short detour, turning into a trail midway. From our river camp, the GPT track files follow an old trail used probably mostly by cows, until a settler: -42.02520, -71.94877. At the settler, who was not at home, we had to zig zag through gates and over one fence until reaching the MR: -42.02707, -71.94872 (it makes a detour probably to cross Rio Correntoso over a bridge). The way to Rincon Bonito is signed with little red arrows. Our first water was located here: -42.01995, -71.98929, shortly after the MR ends and trail begins. The last few kilometres of the MR were recently "upgraded", so it is quite ugly, and they may expand it more, but who knows. On the trail, there were two more simple fords. The first ford was a calm creek: -42.01840, -72.04246. There looked to be good camping just before it, would have been a nice place to aim for the first night. The second ford [15.8/164] has a cable car, where the GPT files indicate a bridge. Tomáš went to verify this after we forded and saw other tents camping there as well. Not sure if it was organized or not, probably yes. A little further ahead there is a settler with their own cell tower. Tomáš (who is from Europe) got full bars but my Canadian phone got nothing. There is still water just before the turn off to the viewpoint trail as T&F have noted. We went into Ricon Bonito to see what they would charge us for camping. We were surprised to meet a group of American packrafters who had flown in that day to paddle down to the fjord. There were 5 of them sharing the 200mil cabin, so not terribly expensive, but the plane from Puerto Montt was 600mil. Kind of nice to know we had a group of river guides near. In the end we were not allowed to camp at this glamping site, it is for reservations only. The men that worked there recommend us to camp at the Bernardita Alegría's (referred to as "abuela" in earlier seasons) 2km up the valley but they said it was 25mil a night per person, which sounded far too expensive for camping (maybe it included half board?) so we found a place in the forest not far from Ricon Bonito and once again had an early night. It seems that while the valley is privately owned (by several landowners? - settlers still live up there), there are no right of ways issue, yet...

Day three: Stealth Ricon camp to Ventisquero river camp, 20-25 km

The trail to the view point is steep but easy (~930m in 4km). The men working at Ricon Bonito had cleared the brush the day before, so Tomáš finally didn't need his machete. There was a little bit of water on the way up ( -42.03631, -72.09700), but probably best to fill at the bottom. You do not have to go all the way up for a view, there is a view point after 450m of elevation gain. At the top we decided to split and go on two different adventures. Tomáš wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero river with the boat and I wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero mountain (aka go to the highpoint above the view point like T&F considered). Luckily we both had successes and you can read Tomáš's description below. As for extending the trail to a highpoint at 1600m I HIGHLY recommend it. By using satellite imagery and intuition, the bushbashing was not bad at all. The bush is that dwarf alpine Lenga that is usually very stiff to walk through, but luckily it was not so dwarf. It was taller than me which made it possible to slither through the understory without much fight. There is roughly 500m of BB, the rest is CC. At the beginning I zig zagged between hidden open spots and then eventually made my way to a ridge-like feature that had many breaks from the bush, and some interesting views. You have to play with this ridge a bit because it is not continuous. Ridge around here -42.05122, -72.09511. Eventually you break free from the bush and enter a dry basin just below the highpoint. It is an easy walk from there and if there is snow you might come across a few small meltwater streams as I did. The views were amazing. If we did not have a plan to start paddling that day I would have explored the ridge. It easily goes to 1700m and then from there it looks you could connect to the main mountain, it will be a fun trip for one lucky person.
As for meeting Tomáš, we planned to meet where the track files hit the river. However I was unable to get to that spot as there were blackberries and cliffs, so I ended up taking the main trail to the river in Ricon Bonito: no one said anything. But when you take this trail down you will hit the bottom and eventually walk along two small boardwalks, just after these boardwalks, the main trail goes left, but dont go left, a better way in is to the right after the boardwalks. It is a sneaky path but it is there and leads you to a nice small beach. Luckily I was ahead of Tomáš and warned him of this new point; -42.02492, -72.09604. We had a nice evening paddle of only a few kilometers, filled up on water at the cable car ford and then made camp in a sheltered bay. Unfortunately the day ended with a torn neck gasket: I ripped my neck gasket all the way to the bottom when taking off my drysuit. I was terribly sad and in disbelief. I had been trying hard to treat it well, not pulling it, covering my face with a balaclava when putting it on, covering it with a balaclava from sun, treating it with 303 and so on. Luckily Tomáš had one bar of internet ať the camp site so I managed to find a store in Pucón that could ship a spare neck gasket to Cochamo (do not do that, ship things to Puerto Varras instead).

Tomáš's trip up the Ventisquero valley:
This goes beyond what is in the GPT files - I was not sure why they end up only in the middle of the valley. when one can clearly see buildings and meadows higher up the valley on satellite.Turns out there is a trail to them indeed. There is one more settler, Fredy Alvarado living here with his family: -42.03933, -72.13376. He is signposted, maybe he would provide lodging and stuff too. Up to him, there is an OSM trail. You can divert from it to a cable car over a river here -42.03852, -72.12473 (signposted by Ricon Bonito). From Fredy, the trail continues, it seems to be used by animals and is still fairly clear. When you enter one clearing, trail can be a bit difficult to find, join it here: -42.04754, -72.16677. Then here -42.04773, -72.17127, the trail fell into the river with trees (obstructing it, this part needs to be walked in packraft through a shallow side channel). It is just 50m and can be easily walked around. The meadows are abandoned puestoes that still seem to be grazed. I put in here: -42.04244, -72.18400. One could probably walk further up in the braided river bed if willing to ford, the valley is really pretty with lots of waterfalls and glacier views and the river would be packraftable for a few kilometres more. River itself is stunning (more scenic and wild than Rio Puelo I think) and easily navigable until Bernardita's place here -42.03202, -72.11899, where II or II+ rapids start (sorry, I am only apporixmate in rating). With a bit of scouting and skill (I am not very skilled though), the rapids are navigable though, as I ran them. The second and third are the biggest, and those are the ones I scouted, the following ones are a bit smaller but could have been scouted too. One can also portage and supposedly there is a path maintained by Ricon Bonito along the river bank (see OSM) so bailing out should be easy. Where there is the OSM path to the side valley, there were some cables so I assume a cable car, but did not see it and cables could be for water too, I did not get a good look. Rapids end around our meeting point with Natalie. I definitely recommend this extension especially for packrafters.

Day four: Ventisquero camp to Puelo Gorge exit, 26 km

We spent the morning organizing the online neck gasket purchase with one bar of internet and then set off quite late. The Ventisquero river is indeed gorgeous and at this time of year unlikely II+, the rapids are small and easily portaged if need be. Tomáš thinks II+ is for the rapid section he did alone - or possibly for spring months with more water. We scouted a few rapids but overall there were no surprises, and obstacles were easily passed. There was very little wood, and the wood that was there was big and obvious with lots of room to go around. I saw only one rapid with possibly dangerous strainers ( -42.02042, -72.06173 if we postidentified it well). There are two possibly low class II rapids here: -42.01429, -71.99931 and here: -42.01853, -71.99523. The first one is straightforward, the second one has a good line on the left of the main current. I personally agree with Jan's description that the river is shallow, we hit our knees a few times (canoe seat). Tomáš thinks it is "Moderate with occasional ground contact" at most - and this more in the upper part than the part we did with Natalie, that is as long as you pick the correct main line to run rapids, anyway it has a lot more water than Rio Huenuhuenu. There was one more water source for drinking further down the river on river right (-42.01882, -71.98949) and then Rio Correntoso if you trust that. I wish I filled up more because it was the last water until Bridge {22N} [7.4/137]. We got to our food stash near Ford 37.5 in ~3hrs. After lunch we headed towards the gorge entrance/hiking section (Rapids Start 6.2). This part of Rio Puelo seemed easier but flowing faster and with more water, no more shallows. There was more wood than the Ventisquero but once again easily avoided. However, there were a couple of underwater logs we almost hit. Tomáš thinks the river is at most I+, when Jan mentions "up to class III" in the manual, that either applies to November or is wrong, you can avoid all of the small rapids if you want and keep it strictly class I. We were totally surprised when we hit the gorge because we were fighting a headwind and thought we were moving slow. Turns out we were still moving fast (~13km in 1.5hrs) and therefore missed the exit by a hundred metres- you do not want to miss the exit! (the gorge is more than half a kilometre after the exit). We had to walk back up the river and ferry across it to get to the start of the hiking section. It was 17:30 so we just camped there and boiled river water. There is a telecom tower above Puerto Urrutia but we did not test it. Lots of didymo algae.

Day five: Gorge to end of hiking section, 12 km

The bypass trail turned out to be a nice up and down trail. It is only very little overgrown with some beautiful views of the gorge and powerful rapids within. There was drinking water throughout. We started late and stopped somewhat early. The first ~2km to Settler 7.7 (Christian) was very easy and clear but Bridge 7.4 is not there anymore, there is a new log bridge just up the creek bed (go left after the gate). Two men on stunning horses were there but we didn't talk for long. The overgrown bit technically starts after this settler but it was ~80% easy to see and follow. The meadow sections are the only places easy to loose it and it was only badly overgrown at the first beach after Settler's 7.7 gate (locked). There, the GPX wants you to walk on the river shore, which is probably a lot easier than the overgrown trail, as long as you find the entrance back to the trail again: -41.87870, -71.96787. Later, it would have been very overgrown after the last hill climb before Settler 15.3 but it had been recently cleared. I was very lucky as it seemed to have been cleared that morning or day before. There were fresh cuts, prints and horse poo. I often found the GPX was off by ~20m, which can be annoying in the forest at times. At the third beach (~6km before end), Tomáš and I split. He wanted to paddle the last bit as he believed it could be a good alternative river in, the rapids looked easily portaged. I was less inclined, so I walked and he took most of the weight and we met back at the normal put in. See Tomáš's notes below. Camping at the end of the hike, beach under Settler "Castanos", is very nice. There are lots of camping spots on the beach or grass meadow above and some tables as well. Near his boat, there is a tarp set up, if you want shelter from the rain. You can fill up on water at the top near Castanos or ferry across the river to a creek.

Tomáš: Rio Puelo in the section that is portaged looks like at least solid class III (that was also the assessment of the Americans we met earlier - they said the start of the gorge is 500m of big waves without holes, surveying from an airplane on their way to Rincon Bonito) and technically probably can be run by people who know what they are doing (but do your own research), as the Americans presumably did (but they were river guides). Possibly, you could even put in (somewhat precariously from a rock) at the end of the first beach Natalie mentions above, walking the rapids (the gorge is mostly not closed from then on where there are rapids) if you have got the skills (they are still mostly class III). From what we saw, I am unsure only whether rapid at -41.86224, -71.97834 can be walked, as we could not see the rapid properly. Also possible there are more rapids than we saw. Make your own assessment first.

Anyway, I put here: -41.85388, -71.98151. This is also a very pretty and comfortable campspot with access to water. There were three more rapids. First one well visible on satellite at -41.85019, -71.97913. It is II or II+, but short and straightforward to run through the center. Could be walked on the left, especially if you have a rope. Then there is a rapid at -41.83779, -71.97925. The main current is probably still III, I did not like it, so I walked it on the right, which was easy (and short, like 10-15 m). The last rapid is here: -41.86224, -71.97834, I would say it is II (or possibly II+) and I ran it. Natalie was faster as I ate, took forever to set up the boat and scouted all the rapids, which I would recommend you do too. Even with the scouting, it took me about an hour to do this section. The last two rapids were not visible on satellite, so Jan's waypoint ending the rapids is correct. According to my GPS, Puelo drops from 80 m to 45 m over this section, which is about 15m more than the manual says. The gorge is beautiful (but you will see it even if you put where recommened by Jan, it is not over there yet). Puelo here has a lot of that nasty didymo algea thing, it is ugly and do wash your boats after leaving.

Day six: End of hike to Laguna Tagua Tagua, 28 km

Rio Puelo was again pretty calm (and pretty) but then somewhat slow nearing the lake. Fresh (last that we saw) water not coming from humans here: -41.80219, -71.99786. We found a nice lunch spot here with picnic tables and nice views: -41.70008, -72.09018. No water but I recommend camping here if you know the lake is going to be too windy to cross and you don't want to take the ferry. However it looks like it sees day trip visitors. Our plan after lunch was to paddle to the start of the Parque Tagua Tagua hike. However, close to the ferry port the base valve in our middle seat inflation tube ripped (obviously a weak point in our boat as the same spot ripped on the main compartment while on the Rio Ñuble). Luckily it was just the seat. I stupidly put Aquaseal FD on it rather than taping it and doing the permanent fix later, so we had to be very careful for the rest of the day. The Aquaseal was a battle. I had been keeping the valve clean but the first few centimeters of aquaseal in the tube had turned to concrete and we had to make a new hole to get some out, I wish I had two tubes (FD + UV). In the end it didn't matter too much because the waves and wind were so strong at the lake that we decided not to cross the lake to get to the hike. For camping we went into the trees and found a wind sheltered patch of grass: -41.70132, -72.11486. We boiled water from the lake, probably not great considering the ferry port was right there. It is probably 4-5 hours of paddling from end of gorge to the lake.

Day seven: Laguna Tagua Tagua to Bridge 79.3, 23 km

We got started fairly early and the lake was easy to cross in about 100 minutes, even with some light tailwind. We stopped for internet at the north side. The first 5km of the Puelo before Rapids 68.9 were more like an extension of the lake, very slow (but pretty). It was easy to stay right at the small gorge before Rapids 68.9. We stopped to scout them and although they were not as strong as the rapids in the first gorge, they had many features we did not like. If there was more water it would have been possible to stay to the far right of them, but at this time it looked impossible to do so without hitting rocks on our knees (it is possible to walk the boat through here too). So we walked the boat to the far right as GPX indicates, there is not enough water to float the whole way. At the end of the walk (-41.61433, -72.21046), there is a a rapid you enter downstream if you want to re-enter the river. After that we stayed right the whole way, passing some more minor rapids directly after. We hit our knees badly on the last shallow rapid because at the end we went to the left of a center rock, we should have gone right (that was here: -41.60956, -72.21677). We found a nice water supply here: -41.61519, -72.24686. The rest of the Puelo that day was easy and it got slow, we had to paddle against the waves for the last few kms before Bridge 79.3 (it pays to follow the current, not chasing the shortest route). There was a fun small feature (possibly a hole) here: -41.63345, -72.25323 that we rode to the side channel of the river. At the bridge we got out and caught a hitch easily to Cochamo, and prepared ourselves to deal with the broken gear and online orders (the Post office in Cochamo is delivered to only on Mondays, so order your stuff to Puerto Varras instead - we had to go to retrieve the stuff in transit in Puerto Montt as to not wait in Cochamo for days). In Cochamo there are many hospedajes, the going rate seems to be 17mil per person. We chose Hostal Arcoíris (-41.49402, -72.30973), we got a small private room for 34mil. There is a large grass area in the back with outside showers to make cleaning the packraft easy, only downfall was it is very popular for Chilean campers. Good fruit shop here: -41.49456, -72.29692.

* ''' 2025-JAN-18 > 22 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 22N > 22-01 > 22S / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : aucun

Après quelques achats à Cochamo, je continue ma journée pleine de surprises. Sans que je fasse d'auto-stop, une dame s'arrête et je fais 4km avec elle sur la gravel road qui mène au barrage de la CONAF. Il est alors 15h30 et il n'est plus possible de passer depuis 15h, dernière montée possible seulement avec une preuve de réservation au camping La Junta. Pour passer sans réservation il faut se présenter entre 7h et 9h. Je dors au camping 200m avant le barrage. Le dimanche matin, je me fais dépasser par des dizaines de coureurs. Après La Junta, il n'y a plus personne et le sentier est plus difficile et boueux. Jusqu'au km 45, ce sont des montagnes russe. On a toujours l'impression de monter. Je prend la 22-01 puisque le RR est fait pour le packraft, et surtout parce qu'après l'échec du GPT20 pour demander un bateau, je préfère éviter de recommencer, 3 fois qui plus est.
J'ai fait de l'auto-stop 20km sur les 30. J'ai fait quelques courses à Llanada Grande, le supermarché est vraiment bien. Je n'ai pas vu de bateau au km 0 du 22S, preuve que j'ai fais le bon choix. Ensuite sur le RR ça alterne entre route de terre carrossable et chemin ou il faut pousser quelques branches, et enjamber des arbres en travers de la route. Mais le chemin est relativement bon. Attention aux ronces qui sont plutôt répandues ici. Aucun taon. Les 4km avant de croiser la 22-X sont en très mauvais état. Attention à bien passer par les postes frontière Chilien et Argentin, le premier pour sortir administrativement du Chili et le second pour entrer administrativement en Argentine.
JAN-23: Repos Lago Puelo

* '''23rd of december / 1 day/ hiking/ sobo/ var 12 + boat (rio puelo) + rr (lago inferior) + var 3 / allie'''

I started in segundo corral where I stayed in a hospedaje. The dueña helped me with the logistics of the boat transfer +56 9 2050 2809. The border control went smooth on both sides. The trail is well maintained and stunning views. When i got to the village lago puelo i tried to cross the rio azul but the current was too strong and it was very deep. I couldnt pass (im 165cm). I went back to the argentinian border control to ask for a boat. They called for one through the radio but no responses. so i had to take the detour to get to la paserela (var 3) which was an extra 13 km more or less to get to lago puelo alto. I passed some people that managed to pass the rio azul 5 km away from the pasarela. But they were quite tall.

* '''(2024/Dez/19-2024/Dec/23) 5 Days/ Packrafting/ NOBO/ Route K/ Lukas, Basil, Maxi and Tabea)'''

Entry point at Lago Pueblo and took the bridge over Rio Azul, which looked not easy fordable. The path to the border was easy to find and well kept.
The packrafting route starting at primer corral is easy and nice. The hiking path starting at 15.2 is partly in overgrown and takes a long time. The second rafting section starting at 28 km is also beautiful and easy however the current is quite slow getting closer to the lago tagotago. The lake should be crossed before noon, strong winds pick up at around 12.
Rafting after Lago TagoTago is easy, the rapids need to be skipped. pay attention of water vortex.

* '''(2024/Dez/12-2024/Dec/17) 6 Days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Route N/ Lukas, Basil and Tabea'''

Entry point at Cochamo. Dont forget to register in advance for the park, they will send you away otherwise. In the park the path is well kept and easy to walk on, although a bit muddy. Up to the camping la junta many tourist are on the way.
From el Manso, after the loop, we took a bus to secundo corral. The bus leaves daily at 2pm on the main road.

* '''From 2024-12-07 to 2024-12-11 // 4 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Puerto Urrutia to La Junta // Mo'''

Transfer from Cochamo to Puerto Urrutia and the other side of Rio Puelo with Bus/Ferry/Bus/Bote was easy, then nice walking next to the river, in really short parts completely overgrown, otherwise easy walking until the river crossings where no settler was there but I was lucky to find others to get me over, from El Manso to La Junta you have a minimarket in El Manso and a little further (knocked on the door of the farm house) and a farmer sells eggs (I just asked for eggs) after Lake Viedma. In La Junta there is an expensive minimarket. Other settlers (like in Terrentosa) might also sell food.

* '''From 2024-12-04 to 2024-12-10 // 6.5 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Pasarela option, Option 2 (Lago de las Rocas east side) + Gravelroad between Llanada Grande and Rio Manso // MiaimZelt'''

In general: no dofficult river crossings, the biggest challenge was the mud between Rio Manso and La Junta. Navigation was mostly without difficulties.

Day 1: Easy trail to the argentinian border. Arrived at 5pm and needed to wait until next morning for the stamp. Camped at the beautiful and free camping next to the carabinieros.

Day 2: Got my stamp and continued. Lovely trail with nice vies until the chiliean carabinieros. Easy bordercrossing. Took the alternative at the east side around Laguna de las Rocas. At some point i saw a sign, indicating the trail is closed due to fallen trees. I continued, the trail got wider. Then i reached the farm of german settlers. A woman (Vivi) approached me and we talked. She told me, my GPX-Track is wrong, because it want's me to cross their private property. Last days people climbed over locked fences, what bothers them. Should walk outside of the fence. On the other side Vivi waited for me and asked me to walk the original trail with her daughter. Got invited to lunch, later her daughter walked with me on the original trail (indicated by a sign "Lago Azul 6km"), while she cleared it with a machete. I did record it with my Smartphone. Sent it to Jan, you also can find it in the facebook group.
After the ford of a river the trail in the dense forest was partly covered under fallen trees. Several times i needed to check the GPS. Camped at a tiny lake near Lago Azul.

Day 3: Didn't follow the GPS around Lago Azul, because it lead's through the property of a settler. Instead i stayed outside of the fenced area. Found signs indicating i'm on the right track, directly before i reached the shore of the lake. The path up to the gravel road was partly overgrown, but doable.

Walked on the gravel road, later i got a hitch to the supermarket in Llanada Grande. Very good shop for a full resupply. After resupply i didn't find a hitch, walked 3 hours until a very nice chilean took me the last kilometers. Stayed at Camp {22N} [45.2/44].

Day 4: Due to the steep up and downs + the mud i was much slower than expected. Met 2 very nice settlers on horseback. Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) has a cable car instead of a bridge. Settler warned me about it. Didn't know how to get inside, because it drives away when you don't hold the rope at the same time. Decided to ford the river instead, was knee-deep. 4 more easy fords along my way to the nice campside at Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado).

Day 5: Trail was in better conditions the next hours. At Torrentoso there is a open shelter with lots of space for tents around. Along Lago Vidal the trail got muddy again. Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn't exist, but very easy to ford. The forst half of the ascent to Lago Grande was easy, but the second half was very muddy and challenging. Wanted to camp at Lago Grande but, Camp {22N} [83.8/1001] is fully covered under a huge downfall of several big trees. Trail along Lago Grande is in poor condition (fallen trees + mud). Camp {22N} [84.9/1012] is a beautiful campspot.

Day 6: Began with the poor trail. Directly after camp, there is a hole where the trail should be. Campspot near the tiny lake. Later one more huge downfall. Trail improves a little bit until El Arco, but due to mud i was very slow. 4 easy fords until the refuge. Rio Arco was knee-deep, easy ford. Met the first hikers directly after the crossing. Mud was getting even more, improved at the descent. Ford Rio Traidor was not difficult, again knee-deep. Ford Rio La Junta could be avoided, because above Toboganes there is a bridge. Didn't know. Could stay at Camp Trawen (13mil), was plenty of space for more tents. They have a small kiosk. Toboganes waterfall is worth to be visited.

Day 7: Easy trail in the beaufiful rainforest from La Junta to the reception. Hiked on the gravel road and luckily i got a hitch to Puerto Varas.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-19 to 2024-02-24 // 6 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 2, 1B, 1 + Variant I, J // Quentin Clavel'''

Lago Puelo - lago de las rocas (east) - Lago Azul - Lago Totoral - Llana Grande - El Manso - Lago Vidal Gormaz - La Junta - Toboganes - mirador Arcoiris - Anfiteatro - Cerro Trinidad - Cochamo

The section begin with the crossing of Rio Azul, wich was not difficult at this time of the year. Then easy track to the lovely Argentinia border, I slept on the camping there. 8 more kilometers to arrive to the carabineros office. Easy border, nice people.

Then due to the landslide on the RR (carabineros confirm me that the track is still not praticable there) I continued along Lago de Las Rocas, on the eastern side, following the option 2. Pretty easy to follow.

At some point there is a junction, with a sign indicate Lago Azul - 6Km on the right. I followed it, even if it get me out of the GPX file (and the nice and easy to follow track). Not sure it was a great idea, I ended up on a sort of small bush-bashing areas that I managed to pass threw and after few kilometers, finally found back the option track, clear and easy, and continue my way.

Then you arrive to a big farm, the one from Jonas, a German native arriving here when he was a child, grow up there and have now a family, living in nature, along the lake, cultivating fruits and vegetables, and selling woods. Very nice man, interesting discussions ! After his farm, you'll follow the valley but keep the left in the woods straight after his farm, if not you'll arrive in a big swampy area.

The track is less obvious and there's a lot of fallen trees. Few check on the GPS was necessary. Then you reach the Lago Azul. The GPX file is going inside the property of a settler. He's a nice guy but his dogs less, one bites me ! (Not hardly, but still!). Just be more careful than me going there, or go around the property.

One last hard push to reach a gravel road, that you will follow until El Manso (30km a bit boring), but easy to find camping and food, especially around Lago Totoral. Resupply at Llana Grande, big supermarket with everything you need.

At El Manso, there's a minimarket next to the cervecería wich is a place where you can camp. The track is quite easy to follow, and quite physical with all the ups and downs. I had rain for two days and this stretch was muddy, especially along the Lago Vidal Gormaz. Then it becomes VERY muddy until La Junta. I had the feelings I will never finish this stretch, and I felt few times in the mud.

I was definitely not presentable when I arrived in La Junta, and the contrast was huge with all people well dressed with clean sports clothes who smell good the fresh perfume of lavenderia ahaha.

I wanted to do Arco iris, but the track is closed because of a landslide. So I opt for the glaciar Paloma wich was surprisingly technical and steep.
But the surrounding worth it, the glaciar Is amazing, the fact that you can enter into it is mad ! I slept up there, there's a little circle with rocks to put your tent.

Then I reached Cochamo and enjoyed great food, confortable hostel and relaxing atmosphere

* '''2024-Feb-09 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Gerald'''

First: I wouldn't do it if there was a lot of rain. Did it after a week of rain in 2019 and it was a mud hell until El Arco. Now it seems at least until junta the trail improved (not sure). For those who don't own a trekking pole, organize a stick early... you won't have mich fun with the muddy situation otherwise.

The bus leaving Puerto Varas at 8:30 (Bus stop at -41.31617, -72.985396) charged 7k. Surprisingly they drove me to the trailhead, last time i had to walk from the bridge, guess it depends on the bus. If you want to get a seat you should probably take the bus in Puerto Montt, had to stay the whole ride. Seems like they will also stop along the way if you wave (check the cochamo insta for an overview of the schedule and route of the bus).
Arrived at the checkpoint at 11:45. After explaining my trip and that i will stay at El Arco they let me pass (without a reservation). They just ask you to register before you go.
Stopped at la junta to make a coffee and enjoy the view. They sell veggies they grow on site.
If i remember rights from Rio Trador on it gets really muddy. It rained 4 days ago and mud was not a big issue until that river.

Anyway, arrived quite late at 8pm at the shelter. There is a path to the right to a place to pitch couple of tents. After Rio Traidor (-41.407173, -72.092915) would also be a nice place to camp

In average only 2 tabano/day annoyed me, what a time we live in... Finally

Dona Luisa has a nice spot on the southern side of the lake Vidal gormaz.
To give you idea, here a short pricelist:
5k camping,
3k for a beer (brahma or Sol),
7k for a bottle of wine,
12k for dinner (meat, salad and bread),
1.5k for cheese

Camping at the settlement Steffen looked nice. Unfortunately i chose a spot next to a way too curious bull...

The camping at the brewery in El Manso is not worth a penny (they charge 5k). It's basically a dry piece of land full of goose shit. Engine on petrol runs untill 10pm. Only wifi is positive. I couldn't find a good spot to camp nearby. I would camp way before. Bus supposed to arrive between 14:30 and 15:00. Luckily a car took me to Puerto Urrutia where i continued. Hostel Puelo Libre looked nice next to the beautiful river. Hiked until the north west side of lago las rocas.

Ricardo (?) offered me a ride for free to the other end of the landslide. But I chose to cross the whole lake by boat. He charged 30k (I was alone). The radio is not anymore at the "port", but you can walk to his house (just continue the MR, first house at around [-42.019089, -71.861245] to your left, if you want to avoid the dogs take the small trail to your left once you see it).

Leaving Chile without the PDI document was not an issue (I requested the paper 5 days in advance and only got an auto response...). They did not even ask. Good views on the lake from now on. Spend an extra day at the camp next to the AR border control. All in all, nice hike!

Missed the bus to El bolson by 5mins. Seems like it's more towards x:30h. I think they run every hour. Got a ride with a car for 1k to the city. If someone is fancying good sourdough bread i can recommend "El Obrador"

The Post office is also doing Westernunion here (check Googlemaps reviews for more Infos)

* '''2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / Lilian'''

If you decide stay at Segundo Corral, and take the boat to Argentina.

NO NO NO

NO NO NO

DON'T DON'T DON'T stay at Mari Mari Peni Camping, (or another name) Amancays Camping.

I saved a girl hiker almost RAPED by the campground owner, and I'm pointed by a rifle gun force me to stop helping her at the night on 07/02. About the details, i type it and upload later.

It is already reported to Chile carabineros and Consulate in Chile.

* '''GPT22 2024-01-31 to 2024-02-05 / 5,5 days days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Cochamó options/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

After a month and a half, we finally did something standard! From Puerto Varras (the bus stop on Avenida Vicente Perez Rosales just after Antonio Varras street) we took a bus at 8:38 going from Puerto Mont that went all the way to the end of MR to the "Road end" waypoint (aka the trailhead). At our hostel (Casa Apel), they told us it would arrive at 8:45. Not sure if this is the same bus that others said would pass Puerto Varras at 8:15 or if it just goes to the road end only in high season. It was 7000 per person - I think they might charge double for backpacks, it seemed expensive but happy they took us all the way.

We were at the entrance at 11 AM and were let through for free when we told them we were going to El Arco. Nat worries this excuse won't last long. The way to La Junta is really busy (met maybe 50 people and about ten horses), easy and without many views as it goes through a forest. When we reached La Junta, we decided that the valley is too special to just walk on by, so we decided to try our luck and ask for camping in order to do the side trips. We asked all the campsites and only La Junta let us stay, 8000 CLP per person. Nat says it is important not to spread the word as they were nice people and did us a favor even though they were not supposed to allow people without reservations to stay. So, do not expect to be let in. We had a numbered site so I think they genuinely had some places free. If nobody had places, after ford 98.9, there is a maze of paths and mini-meadows on the left where I saw somebody camp illegally. If you hide your packs well for the day and then camp from dusk till dawn, you would probably get away with it. Alternatively there are some flat spots in Trinidad valley two hours up - if you start so that you would arrive by dusk, you should meet nobody.

The side trips are steep but not challenging, many people take them. We went to Paloma [November 2024: in our suggestions and in OSM, like the next option too] in the evening, it can be done in three hours there and back if you do not stop (we did). We started going up at 1715 and saw last person going down at 1830 or so. It is quite splendid and fun, there are a couple of places you have to use a fixed rope. OSM says there is a route to Cerro La Junta. It is probably an exit route for climbers, I did not see any traces of it, but it looked like it was possible. If it is, one could probably continue all the way to Cerro Capicua.

Arco Iris is still closed. If it were open I think one could follow the ridge, which is not very steep or outcroppy, all the way north to above GPT21 - only there is probably no way down [November 2024: in the Facebook group, it was said that somebody died there and that is why it is close, so maybe there is nothing wrong with the path, but it is closed officially for sure].

The next morning I went to the Trinidad Valley and all the way up to Cerro Bella Vista and Nat went ahead to escape the approaching rain. The roundtrip takes about 7-8 hours. There is a marked travelled trail to the pass ("El Paso"), the last 300 vertical meters or so are marked by cairns. You will need your hands occasionally, but it is not exposed or particularly hard - SAC 4. The views are well worth it. It seemed most people only go to La Laguna (lake just under the pass). We started at 6 AM and I met the first people on my way down around noon at La Laguna. The way up through Camping Vista Hermosa (the current GPT track) is not supposed to be used by people not staying at the campsite. The proper way up seems to be the more western trail that is marked on OSM. Going back down trough camping Bella Vista was without issues though. They told Natalie you are not supposed to use their cable car (the one more upstream). Tomáš thinks you should use it as it is the only one that you can use without going through either of the campsites (the downstream one goes directly from La Junta campsite). No horseflies by now!

I left the camping at 15:30, and met only one group of hikers all the way up to the second Camp waypoint at Lago Grande. It is a nice camp, bigger than the first, but no good water sources. Wild legal camping, if I get it right. Refuge El Arco is unmanned, it is just a simple wooden hut. I would only use it in case of severe rain. The way up was almost all dry after two weeks of no rain. Mostly through forest, with some nice views of the valley, a few more fords than indicated, but they could all be jumped.

The next day it rained (5mm?) from 4 AM till 11 AM but it was not enough to make the trails substantially muddy. Nat had camped under a tree on a bench at Doña Luisa (5mil) and despite the rain was mostly dry without a tent. Tomáš had camped at Lago Grande and the tent got very wet (but not his sleeping bag). The bridge before Lago Vidal is not there but there was a nice log. There are some pre-colonization rock paintings after Lago Vidal, one probably needs to make a sidetrip to see them based on the information signs near Torrentoso (trail 22-10 was signposted; trails in the valley are well maintained so I assume the option is good to go). On the last meadow before the gone bridge at 51.8, there was a cherry tree that still had very tasty miniature cherries in the beginning of February. It is behind the house to the left of the trail, maybe 40 m from it. I discovered it by going south of the house (nobody seemed to be in it). Do not miss the turnoff of the trail from the meadow - I went straight, there was initially a trail but petered out into a landslide. Camp at 45.2 is nice but bring water (reach it by turning left from the trail cca 50-100 m beyond the imaginary shortest route from the trail to the camp, that way you avoid any vegetation, there is an opening in the fence (-41.70438, -71.99186). Finally met Natalie after two days of escaping rain, she found a dry spot under the tree canopies there. Shop in El Manso is better than expected (has good veges and fruit) but not as good as the one in Llanada Grande. El Manso also is besides a cerveceria with wifi (you have to buy the beer). The bus only came at 1530 despite being told it comes at 1pm. In almost three hours of waiting, we did not manage to hitch a car.

The bus indeed stops at Llanada Grande for 10 minutes or so - it is not really enough to orientate yourself and buy lots of supplies. The supermarket had lots of nectarines! Should you want to go to Puerto Urutia, the bus does not go there so you need to get off and walk the minor road there. We could not get reliable Entel internet reception anywhere in the valley (calls were fine) along the bus route.

We went to Primer Corral to do 22-08. The first few km are not a pleasant road to walk on. We decided to turn back as bad weather was coming in two days and it did not seem worth it. Not sure how far the road for cars goes. There seems to be regular but sparse traffic on it.

We walked back for about an hour on the main road before getting a hitch for the last 3 km to turnoff to 22-02, as others indicated the RR is badly passable due to a landslide. The MR we walked was aesthetically dreadful and supersteep. We had to climb a locked gate right at the start. We found a miniature camping spot (dry) about 200 m before the signposted trail turnoff. In the morning a lorry driver waved at us so probably no issues with climbing the gate. Luckily the trail is much nicer than the road. We met the settler at the lake Azul, he let us walk through his property. The few km to the first very small lake are actually an undriven MR, but very pleasant, it does not seem to be connected to the road network. After 2 km, one turns left onto a trail, there are new signposts indicating you ca go to the "Frontera" or the lake - go to the Frontera. Until the pass, it is very clear. After the pass, the visibility deteriorates somewhat but no bush bashing is involved. Soon after that, there is a gate saying there is no trail afer a harsh winter. We went further and it turned out there is a trail. There were some trees on it, but not too much and we lost it only for about 50 m. From setler at 11.4, the trail is much more clear. Met a seemingly lonely girl from the next homestead with whom we had a lovely chat. The trail to the border control was easy, we came there at 1530 and were let through. They told us that it would be ok to reach the Argentinian border control the next day. They too had a very ripe cherry tree but did not pick up on my appraisal of it and did not suggest I get some fruit.

We met several people on the way to Argentina border. We camped there (wild permitted numbered camping sites - there was about twenty other Argentinians, the functioning toilets are unsigned immediately next to the Police building, the building that looks like the old toilets is closed). The next day we had no issues with getting a stamp and going down. The last CC part is a trail. We forded the second ford a bit earlier than suggested, it was waist deep but very slow moving. Took a bus at 1340 to El Bolson - seems to run regularly (the dog bandits there are aggressive, watch out).

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + day trip / Lotti & Alex'''

We did this section mostly as described by Fangwen and Tobi (El Manso to Cochamo base camp), so there is not much to add. We stayed at La Junta for 2 nights and did a very nice day trip to Cerro Bellavista (see description further down). The trails were very well maintained all the way. The only minor problems were mud and lots of horse flies. Like Fangwen and Tobi, we were happy we did the section NOBO, because the landscape gets more and more spectacular. This way it is also much easier to get to camp at La Junta without reservation, because they always reserve some space for hikers coming from the south.
It was a beautiful hike and especially the area around La Junta is really spectacular and worth visiting. We even met a fellow GPT hiker there, which was great!

Transportation:

To start:
Bus "Rio Puelo" from Puerto Varas to Lago Tagua-Tagua at 8:20am, then ferry to Puerto Maldonado, then bus to El Manso. We arrived at the trailhead around 1pm.

after hike:
Bus from end of trailhead ("Cochamo base camp") to Cochamo/Puerto Montt at 1pm.

Day trip to Cerro Bellavista:

Start at La Junta on GPT Variant G, following the signs to "Trinidad". It starts by crossing the river with the little cable car. After the walls of Trinidad, stay on the trail and follow the signs to "Laguna". The official trail ends there, but there are stone cairns and ribbons marking a trail that goes up to the pass. The laguna is crowded, but we didn't meet anyone further up. The view at the pass is already great, but you can go up even further. Turn to the left and follow the stone cairns until the summit. It is not difficult, just walking and easy scrambling, and the view is absolutely spectacular.
The whole tour has about 1300m of altitude difference. It took us around 5h to go up, and 3-4h down.

* '''2024-01-07 to 2024-01-14: Fangwen and Tobi / 2.5 days Ventisquero Valley (Option 08 + more), 4 days El Manso to Cochamo RR / NOBO hiking.'''

We did two parts along this enjoyable section, connecting them by hitchhiking and resupplying in between in Llanada Grande.

The first part was hiking ~20km into the scenic Ventisquero valley (Option 08), alongside a wonderful river on an enjoyable and easy hiking trail through farms and rainforest that mostly follows an old minor road. It's often better to follow the well-marked trail rather than the GPT track files. A highlight of our trip was hiking up to a fantastic viewpoint at 1100m with a view of the whole valley, its remote side valleys and glaciated mountain peaks. The trail (900m elevation gain, 4.5km) through the thick rainforest is steep but excellent in quality and easy to follow (but the turnoff at S 42° 01.737', W 072° 05.643' is easy to miss). This and other trails in the valley are not part of the GPT files yet, but GPX files can be found on the website of Rincon Bonito (glamping accommodation for groups) that presumably created the trail. We camped by the viewpoint; what a wonderful experience! There are plenty of places to pitch up a tent, but little protection from wind. We found a wind protected camp in a dried-out puddle at (S 42° 02.705', W 072° 06.193'). Make sure to bring water, since the last reliable water source is in the valley, just before the turnoff onto the steep trail. From the viewpoint, we attempted to climb the local mountain, but beyond 1500m, it appears to require bush bashing. Our track: [[Media:GPT 22 Ventisquero Viewpoint.gpx]]. [https://rinconbonito.cl/experiencias/ The GPX on their site].
The viewpoint is within the Pumalin National Park, but the whole valley seems to be private property and camping is forbidden outside official campsites, which begin quite far into the valley. There are plenty of spots to pitch up a tent nonetheless (which is what we did).
For packrafters, going down the river must surely be a highlight! Rincon Bonito offers packrafting (maybe only for their guests?), they describe it as class II+.

Our second part followed the regular route 22N from El Manso to the Cochamo trailhead. This was an enjoyable hike and we found the trail to be in good condition, although it gets pretty muddy around El Arco (and that's after one week of sunny weather). There is quite a bit of pointless up and down between km45 and km79. Additionally, our hiking distance was often 20-25% longer than expected, as there are many switchbacks too small to be represented on the track files. We liked hiking this section northbound, as the rainforest and the views get more and more impressive as you go along. La Junta has a lot of local hiking options (e.g. hiking into the Anfiteatro valley or on top of Cerro Trinidad), but we didn't spend any extra days because the weather was turning.

Logistics: to get to the start of section 22, take the daily bus that leaves at 7.45am from Puerto Montt (stops at 8.15 in Puerto Varas at intersection el Salvador/San Pedro S 41° 19.081', W 072° 59.038', and later in Cochamo). The bus company Río Puelo has a ticket office in Puerto Montt, their WhatsApp number is +56 9 7408 9199. From there, take the ferry across Lago Tagua Tagua and the connecting bus down the valley to your respective trailhead (El Manso for the Cochamo valley, Primer Corral for the Ventisquiero valley). Note that travel is slow... We arrived at the Primer Corral at 4pm. We left a bag of food for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately it was visible from the parking lot and got stolen, so we resupplied at the Llanada Grande supermarket. The bus makes a stop there for ~15min, if you want a quick resupply there (it's a bit bigger than in El Manso). We hitchhiked to El Manso, which worked after two hours of waiting/walking (not a lot of traffic).

If you are in the Llanada Grande area, go to Camping Reflejo Azul. The campsite itself is average, but it has the most beautiful river we have ever seen in our lives. Visit this truly special place before Instagram influencers find out about it and it becomes overrun by hordes of tourists. Day access is possible also for 5.000 CLP.

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1732098767296002/?app=fbl

* '''2024-Jan-4 / 7.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RH + OP-LK-2 + RP / Lauren & Sebastian'''

Note: We were told a reservation is needed for a camp site at La Junta to be allowed into the valley from Cochamo side, so we did that. However, one of the wikiexplora entry mentioned that they were allowed in when mentioning that they wanted to camp at El Arco Refuge but we read it too late. Camp Trawen is the most expensive (15k per person), which is the reason why it’s been available on short notice. There are several other sold-out camps around for 8k-10k.

Day 1: We hitchhiked to Cochamo Base Camp at 9am and reached Camp Trawen by 2pm. It would have been better to go on the El Arco Refuge straight away and camp there. It’s a touristy stretch and in our view not really worth doing, if you like the general quiet nature of the GPT.

Day 2: Camped at the beach at Lago Vidal. Easy hike but lots of ups and downs.

Day 3: We packrafted Lago Vidal and had a good lunch at Luisa’s place (make sure to drop by!), before continuing on to Torrentoso (not the paid camp, but on the meadow a few hundred meters after the official camp).

Day 4: The bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) does not exist anymore. It’s not a demanding ford but there are short steep ups and downs on both sides. We stayed near wp Settler {22N} [50.1/307].

Day 5: We rivered in at wp Rio Manso. The ride was super scenic and beautiful and there were no rapids, just a bit of boiling water but nothing difficult, which might be due to different water levels compared to previous accounts. It’s 45 minutes from there to the bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36]. We rivered out behind the bridge on the right side. There is a nice flat beach which leads to the cabin of Harv and Veronica. They let us camp on their land and even offered a hot (wood fired) shower for 2.5k per person. There is a cervezeria and shop across the road for resupply.

Day 6: We took the bus at 1 pm to intersection at wp X {22-01} [25.0/187] and went on OP-MR-V (along Hunter’s estate) to Lago Azul. You will be charged 5k per person to access the lake. We crossed Lago Azul with strong waves and tailwind so we sailed to the other side in no time.

Day 7: Crossed Lago de Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, and Lago Puelo to the Argentinian border control which opens at 8am next morning so we camped there. Next day we finished at Lago Puelo which is a popular tourist beach.

Tip: It is a hot & dusty walk to town from the beach and hitchhiking is not as easy in this part of Argentina as in Chile. Keep some small change of USD or Argentinian pesos for the bus ride to resupply in town. If you plan to continue packrafting Lago Puelo on GPT23 after resupplying, the earliest bus back to the beach reaches around 7.30am but it will be too late as the wind picks up by 8am. Lago Puelo is known for its strong gusts so it’s best to check wind forecast and paddle early morning 5.30am to cross. Therefore it may be easier to camp at one of the campsites nearer to the beach instead of staying in town. Just go there for resupplying.

*'''2023 Dec OH-TL-V / Anh'''
Note: the trail OH-TL-V alias Cerro Arco Iris [from La Junta] was damaged by big rocks in the last season and is completely closed. A new route or repair is not in planning.

* '''2023-12-17 to 2023-12-21 / 5 days / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO /RR & Option 01B / Roman'''

Route: Hiking from Cochamó to El Manso. Bus to Lago de Las Rocas. Packrafted the lake and Lago Inferior. Hiked to Lago Puelo.

Due to the border crossing, there is a thread about it on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1709504102888802/. I applied online - no answer. Went to the carabineros in Cochamó they couldn't issue it, so I went without it (it worked without a problem)

Started in Cochamó (there is a bus to the entry I just got him by hitchhiking so I don't know the schedule) and had a reservation for Camp Trawen (Fruit, Groceries, Electricity). This is getting checked at the entrance if you have one. The trail to the camp was a bit muddy (2 days of rain before the start) but all doable. The next day went to the northern end of Lago Vidal Gormaz and slept there at Lake {22-05} [7.9/604]. Bridge destroyed at: -41.43696, -71.96632 and Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado). Both are crossable dry feed due to trees. Generally, there is no fording necessary after Lago Vidal Gormaz. Before yes. Packrafted Rio Manso. There were no rapids on the map, it's mentioned in the Manuel that it can be challenging. There are some rapids but all are doable and manageable (I am a beginner with kayak experience and an open deck packraft). You can get easy access to the river at -41.692561, -71.972725 this is 300m after the mark in the file. There is a dry river bed to avoid BB to get to the River. The river is fast flowing. Follow the GPS only at one point where the river splits pay extra attention: turn left as shownin the GPS: -41.698615, -71.985482 . Went out at the south side of the bride: Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36] (Rio Manso) on the right side. There is a trail to the street with one gate where you can walk through on the right side. The shop Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) has good supplies and free WiFi. The trail to this point is very good. Based on previous comments and a chat to a local I want to skip at least to Puerto Urrutia [comment in: 2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07]. There is an official bus going all the way from Rampa Punta

Maldonado -> Segundo Corral. Find the schedule here: https://imgur.com/a/7MVEscb . The shop owner said the bus is normally there at 02:00 PM. The bus was there in my case at 02:30 PM. This bus stops at the large supermarket [Supermercado Llanada Grande] a great place for a last resupply). The bus also stops at Puerto Urrutia but I went all the way to Lago de Las Rocas and used OH-MR-V {22-01B} [8.2+1.9] to get to the lake. Started packrafting at 05:00 PM. The start was fine. The wind got worse during the evening and was to my capabilities on the maximum with serious waves. Strong wind from the north. It was pleasantly paddling after going through the gap at -42.069608, -71.813735. Camped at Lake, Camp {22S} [21.8/314]. Got there at 07:45 PM. Crossed the border without any problems. Packrafted Lago Inferior and got in the water here: Lake {22S} [20.9/201] at 10:00 AM. The wind got stronger but manageable. Exited the lake at 11:15 AM at -42.102244, -71.742575. The trail back to the RR is good to hike. From there, the trail is in good condition. Due to the higher water in Rio Azul fording and therefore the RR is not possible. You get also the recommendation from the Argentinien carabineros to take Option 03. I didn't want to take this and followed the RR to this point: -42.091481, -71.633667. From there I followed the trail to this point: -42.09399, -71.634188. There is an old dock [image here: https://imgur.com/a/5LMsKA1]to put in you packraft. The trail can be downloaded at the end of the comment. There I packrafted with very strong onshore wind and if it hadn't been for only 300m I wouldn't have done it to (03:15 PM):-42.096114, -71.628682 ,and walked from there to the end of GPT22.

Overall: great section! It's a nice trail to hike and packrafting rRioEl Manso is a lot of fun and a great change in perspective after hiking for a few days. After that, the trail continues bto bein a good condition. The conditions for Lago de Las Rocas should be closely checked. I would definitely recommend it!

Trail download: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5q7YZzDoW3qlKypqwBg

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-03 to 2023-Dec-12 / 9 days / PACKRAFTING / NOBO & SOBO / Jordan Jennings'''
Route:

took bus to Primer Corral>Arroyo Ventisquero>Rio Puelo (walked 13km of rapids through canyon)>Lago Tagua Tagua>Rio Puelo>Estero Reloncavi to Cochamó (nobo) took bus back towards Primer Corral from Cochamó, asked to be dropped off near Lago Azul.. Lago Azul>lago las rocas>Lago Inferior>Lago Puelo>Lago Puelo town (sobo).

Highlights:

Arroyo ventisquero: is well worth a visit, packrafting or hiking. I got told that there is a hostel run by an abuela 4km further up the valley from Rincon Bonito (posh cabins) where the route on track files stops (c20km up valley from Primer Corral). Between the hostel and Rincon there are rapids, so be prepared to walk back to Rincon to put boat in water. The river from Rincon to Rio Puelo is stunning and very easy in packraft.

Lago Azul: If you flip flop (as recommended if packrafting), and return back to Primer Corral for sobo travel as Jan mentions in the manual, ask the bus driver to drop you at Lago Azul, rather than taking the bus closer to the Lago las rocas trailhead/Primer Corral. The 3km walk from the bus stop to the lake is easy and I got super lucky and passed a local horse race (Carreras) on a Saturday. Maybe ask ahead when they are on?!

Other comments:

The hiking section bypassing Rio Puelo (first set of) rapids through canyon, the 13km or so took me all day. Parts of the trail were barely a trail, very slow kms. Although I was also a bit sick so my experience might be tainted. The alternative is taking roads on the right hand side of the river.

I hiked the section between the Argentinian border patrol and lago puelo town (13km) which passed through some stunning farmland (lago puelo can get angry with wind as with any big lake). The dotted line section or shortcut which requires two river fords was impassable for me. Rio Azul was not even close to being fordable mid December. And even if you did pass, you would have to take the road to Puelo anyway.

In terms of transport to Primer Corral, the bus leaves Cochamó at 10:30am and Puelo at 11:30am (same bus, which I think starts in Puerto Montt v early). From the ferry there’s another local bus that will essentially drop you wherever you want (en route) to primer corral. Super easy.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-18 to 2023-Feb-23 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 22-01 / Martin & Helena'''

A lot has been already written, so just a few comments from our side:

No problem with entering the valley in SOBO direction, until the noon aprox., saying you will spend the night at the refugio El Arco - they have some time estimate for this hike and can’t let you in if its late. By the entrance you can buy some useful things that might be hard to buy in Cochamo, like gas or peanut butter. There was also a beer truck with quite good wifi connection (only during summer). Crowds of people in both directions, quite muddy trail. Detour to the Toboganes is definitely worth it. We spend the night after all in a marked camp aprox. 4 kms before the refugio and it was a good decision - there were quite a lot of people when we passed by the next day.

From the refugio its nice and easy walking. We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

Based on other comments and our time schedule we decided to take the alternative 22-01 to Llanada Grande. This is a good resuppy spot as there is a new and big (at least in comparison to what you would expect in a place like this) supermarket that replaced the old one destroyed by fire. Good place to stay is a campsite at the end of the village, on the right side, run by really nice lady. Not expensive and if its free, you can stay for the same price in a so called refugio, that is actually just a very small room, but for us better than a tent. Hot water and electricity + possibility to buy pizza and maybe some other small things - there is actually no restaurant in the village. Some more road walking around Lago Totoral to Rio Puelo to connect back to RR. In general not very attractive part of the trail. Great restaurant in Hostal Puelo Libre with local beer and view on the river.

From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake. We thought about taking the RR around the lake, but the landslide caused by snow (aprox. 1.5 km from the port) looked quite difficult to pass. We discovered there is possibility to cross the lake on one of the locals boat, which we did in the end. We were lucky that after waiting for some time in the port a car with locals arrived. Happily for us they arranged a boat transfer with other residents to get to the other side of the lake, where they went for a lunch. We were able to go with them, and after picking up their friends, we all hop off the boat close to the police station. Great experience and we learned a lot about this area and people living here. We paid 10k CLP. In the comments here is a contact for the guy with a boat, but without signal it must be arranged in advance, and the price might differ when not sharing the transfer with others. No problem with the border check. It took us around 4 hrs to get to the argentinian side, where everyone was super friendly as well. They offered us to camp there, but we decided to make it to Lago Puelo, which took us 2 more hrs. The landscape changes significantly on the other side where everything is more dry. No problem with the river crossing. We got off the trail directly on the main road.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07 / 7 days / hiking / SOBO / Cochamó - Lago Puelo / Anna & Christopher '''

We hitchhiked from Eco Camping El Valle to the entry of the park and arrived around 8 am. We told them that we would camp at the Refugio El Arco and explained our further route. Until la Junta there were lots of chilenean tourists, therefore the path was very good only with some muddy stretches. Like Véronica we walked to Toboganes, a waterfall/stream with beautiful rock formations. There were tons of people, but it's worth it. La junta seems to be an amazing place for rock climbing, we would have loved to have some climbing gear with us.

After la Junta there were almost no more hikers. We camped next to the Refugio, as there were already two other groups of hikers sleeping in the Refugio.

Until Lago grande there are still some muddy stretches and blowdowns, but generally it is a good path. From there on the path is perfectly maintained. We camped at approx. km 66 next to Río los Morros.

Nice path until El Manso. We resupplied at the minimercado and camped next to the river, which was a beautiful camping spot with lots of delicious blackberrys.

The next morning we arrived at Señora Ocos house around 8 am. She contacted multiple people and luckily found out that there was somebody crossing the river to our side at 11 am. The man, whose name we unfortunately forgot, was super friendly and dropped us off after the river mouth of Rio Traidor, close to where he lives. He charged 10.000 CLP p.p.

The path to the first settler was mediocre and afterwards got worse and worse until it was almost pure buschwhacking. It was the worst we had so far on the GPT. Thorns.. Lots of thorns tearing away at your clothes, backpack and skin.
We camped at the river at approx. km 12, which was a beautiful spot.
Until the settlement Las Nieves the path continued beeing bad with lots of bush bashing. The settler told us that no locals use that path and she also told us that there are no regular boat transfers to Puerto Urrutia on weekends (it was sunday..).
We wouldn't do that stretch next to Rio Puelo again and instead hitchhike from El Manso to Puerto Urrutia.

At the boat transfer waypoint to Puerto Urrutia we had Entel service and contacted one lodging on the other side. They told us to go to the last house 1km back to ask for a transfer (it's the house of the man who does the boat transfer on weekdays). But we got lucky and a boat passed by and took us to the other side. The man on the boat also told us that the path from Río Traidor to Puerto Urrutia "is closed".

We continued to Lago verde, where we planned to camp, but it's surrounded by dense forest, apart from a private property.
That spot is amazing, a little landing stage to go swimming, a great view and a very friendly owner. She even baked some delicious apple bread for us. For camping she charged us 8000 CLP p.p.. That was definetly worth it.

After Lago verde there is a minimarket. We didn't check it out, but there is no resupply wp yet.

After reading previous blogs and having had enough of thorns we decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard. We also got his number (+56958694897), if you want to contact him in advance. When we arrived at the lake, there were already lots of people waiting for the boat so we just waited with them and after some time got knocked the boat with them. The ride was really nice across the crystal clear blue water and we were charged 5000 p.p.

From the southern end of the lake it's just a couple of minutes to walk to the chilenian border control. We continued on and camped at km 30 at the river. Again a really beautiful spot.

The next day we passed the argentinian border control and continued to Lago Puelo.

The section was really beautiful, except the part with the thorns. There are lots of streams along the whole trail, so one does not need to carry much water.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Feb-02 / 5 days / hiking / NOBO / RR mostly / Frank'''

I got the bus-ferry-bus from Puerto Montt to Segundo Corral. To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas & delays with the river ferries I walked on the road from Segundo Corral to El Manso, about 50KM. Easy but not very interesting walking. It takes a full day to get from Puerto Montt on the bus to Segundo Corral so I believe it would be better to go SOBO with an early start to get through La Junta, otherwise you need 2 additional days for travel.

Stayed @ nice & cheap campsite at bridge over Rio Colorado & camped at El Arco. The trail approaching El Arco was muddy & a bit swampy (it had been raining). It's possible to go by boat across Lago Vidal Gomez but it's an easy 3 hour walk.

Got the bus again to Segundo Corral & ferry to Paso Bolson. The trail across the border is generally in good condition. There is some easy bushbashing on the Chilean side for about 1KM before the border & some fallen trees but they are straightforward to go over. Rio Azul was easily fordable in early February.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-14 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR, also GPT22-01 / Véronica '''

Route: Cochamó - La Junta - Lago Vidal Gormáz - El Manso - Puerto Urrutio via Option 1 - Lago Las Rocas - Lago Puelo (Argentina)

The borders of Paso El León and Paso El Bolsón are both opened again for tourists! Go for it! It is a beautiful section with wonderful people, such a contrast to where I started the GPT further north.

In Cochamó, I stayed at Eco Camping El Valle, right at the entrance to the Cochamó River Valley. Paid 7000 clp, very nice campground, there are tarps over the picnic tables at each site so you have a dry place to hang out even if it rains :) Since I spent the night so close to the trailhead, it was easy to get to the guarded valley entrance (Road End {22N} [109.8/58]) early. I did not have a camping reservation for La Junta. I arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 a.m., explained my route to the staff, saying I would stay at Refugio El Arco that night. They let me through no problem. The trail to La Junta is a bit muddy, but nothing bad, my feet stayed dry in my trailrunners despite the fact it was also raining off and on. Beautiful path through the Valvidian rainforest, I really enjoyed all the green and the moss. When I reached the La Junta area, I stashed my pack in some trees and made a short detour to Las Toboganes. They are only 0.7 km off the regular route, and highly worthwhile to see! What a spectacular area, I totally see the Yosemite resemblence, and would love to go back someday.

I found the trail after La Junta (all the way to Lago Vidal Gormáz) to be in good shape, contrary to what others have written. It was maybe slightly less maintained than the popular trail leading into the valley, but it was still very clear and easy to follow — not overgrown, no blowdowns, just a bit muddy in some places. Granted, it has been drier than normal so far this summer. None of the fords went above my knees, and sometimes I could cross the creeks without even getting my feet wet, all very easy.

The refugio at El Arco is dark and without any furniture inside. I found it much nicer to camp in the nearby meadow just south of the trail there. There are outhouses.

Nice path from Lago Vidal Gormáz all the way to El Manso. Very beautiful in this valley as well. Met a few arrieros along the way. Most of the rivers have bridges crossing them. There is a small camp at the bridge over Río Colorado.

In El Manso, I topped off my food supply at the shop on the main road. It has a good selection of food items. Then I went to Señora Oco's house to try and arrange a boat transfer over Río Puelo. She and her family are very friendly and welcoming. I arrived there mid-afternoon, but she could not get in radio contact with anyone on the other side. In the evening, we heard back from Hospedaje Nancy, who charged 60,000 clp for a crossing upriver all the way to Río Traidor (where she lives). This I found too expensive for me traveling alone. Señora Oco baked some bread and I was able to buy some. She also said I was welcome to camp in the fields behind her house while waiting for a response from settlers Paulina and Jovino regarding a crossing to their place (much more direct and therefore likely much cheaper). The next morning, we still hadn't received any response from Paulina and Jovino either via radio or Whatsapp (they may have been away). Because of this, I decided to take the gravel road to Puerto Urrutia (Option 1), and forgo crossing Río Puelo, unfortunately. Despite this setback, I'm really glad I got to meet and spend time with Señora Oco and her family, they are such kind people.

I was able to hitch most of the way to Puerto Urrutia, where I rejoined the regular route. The trail from there all the way to Lago Las Rocas is mostly easy and clear. There were a few confusing junctions in the vicinity of Lago Verde, so I kept a close eye on the GPS there. After crossing the road after that, the beginning of RR -TL-V {22S} [2.8/7.1+2.7] is tricky to find. There are lots of fallen trees and many forest paths. The GPS was very helpful there too until I finally found the right path. After about 700 m it merges with a nice clear path all the way to Lago Las Rocas.

As has been previously reported, there is a large rockslide about 2 km in once you reach Lago Las Rocas. It didn't look overly dangerous to me, the boulders were large and seemed solid enough. I started crossing it right at the bottom where the rocks fall into the lake, as it looked to be the easiest and safest way across. I was maybe 50 meters through it, when a boat came along, and the people in it told me to hop in! What lucky timing! As we passed the rest of the rockslide, I could see the last part of it was steep, loose scree rather than big boulders. That part would have definitely been nerve-wracking to cross, and I was very grateful for the boat ride. The settlers who owned the boat live about 3 km along the trail, at a little bay/inlet in the lake. They have a nice beach and campground too. That's where I rejoined the trail. Beyond their house, the "Camino Los Mosquitos," as it is locally called, gets progressively worse in terms of overgrowth and blowdowns. The trail has not been cleared since the past winter, and not been used either. The stretch between kilometers 4 and 6.5 is the worst. It felt more like pure bushwhacking than following a trail. The path was mostly burried beneath walls of downed trees and branches, it got very hard to follow at times. Lots of climbing over and under vegetation, some of it quite thorny too. Very slow and tiring. My pack got ripped up a bit and so did my clothing. Had I known the trail was this bad, I would have taken the option on the east side of Lago Las Rocas. It's hard to imagine it could be in worse shape than the regular route.

When I got to the Chilean Border Control it was around 6:30 p.m., so too late to cross that day. The border agent working there was very friendly, but he couldn't get in contact with his supervisor to get approval for stamping my passport with the next day's date. So I camped back at Lago Las Rocas, and the next morning came back at 8 a.m. when the border post reopened. The trail on the Chilean side of the border was a bit rough in places, it has been neglected since the winter too. But it was not as bad as the previous stretch along Lago Las Rocas. Once I got into Argentina, it got much better. The trails in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo are well-maintained, and I met some day hikers. No issues at the Argentine Border Control.

I was able to ford Río Azul easily, thanks to the dry weather. There are three branches of the river to cross (the GPS waypoints only show two of them). The middle branch is the widest and deepest. The water there went up to my upper thighs (I'm 165 cm), but the current was slow and it never felt dangerous.

Now I'm skipping down to GPT32 to continue my adventure further south :) The northern sections that I hiked from 6 to 22 were simply amazing, with great weather almost the entire time. Thank you, all!

* '''2022-Oct-19 to 2022-Oct-24 / 6 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / ???'''

Here are the main points because our story is long :)
Paso el bolson and El Leon are closed for tourists until further notice
Some of trails are in bad condition because of the hard winter but they might be cleared in the following weeks.
Landslide in Lago Las rocas - very dangerous part to cross. We suggest to take an optional route

The trail starts in valle cochamo. We did not have any reservations but as we were in low season we were not worried. However the lady from the tourist office in Cochamo told us to arrive at the entrance of the valley between 7 & 8 to avoid being rejected. At 7h50 there was nobody at the reception so we did not have any trouble, but we cannot say for the high season.
You can arrange a car transfer to go the valley entrance. The numbers of the drivers are available at the tourist office.

The trail until La Junta is muddy but well maintained - no worries there. Up there we met some arrieros and the locals from the camping and they told us that the trail was closed a bit further because of snow (up to 2 meters) in laguna Blanca. This is the highest part of the trail (about 1100m). The river crossings were feasible, but as they forecasted rain for the next day, we preferred to turn back in order to avoid being blocked between high rivers and snow.

Back on the road between Cochamo and Puelo, we caught at about 10:30 the bus that leaves at 7:45 from Puerto Montt, to go to Rio Manso. There is a well furnished Shop where you can even find gas.
We remained in the Southbound direction and went to Senora Oco's house. She was very welcoming, and her and her grandchild helped us in arranging a boat transfer for the following morning (nothing was possible the same day). We paid 50000 pesos to go from their house to Rio Traidor - close to Nancy hospedaje. Indeed, we skipped the first part of the trail as they told us that it was very closed with a lot of small trees and not used anymore. Maybe it would be cheaper to cross a bit south using the cable car or directly from Manso to Rio Traidor.

Until the Rio Tigre, settler # 22N [7.7/157], the trail is visible but sometimes with some obstacles (fallen trees). After this settling, you will have to cross the Rio Tigre which might be the hardest to cross on your way if you have a lot of rain. There is a bridge indicated on the tracks but it has been swept away this winter. The best place to cross is a bit higher following the river, follow the horse track. We did not have any problem crossing, and probably the settler could help you with his horse if the river is too high. That is an advantage of the Southbound direction.

After, the trail is really clear. We found the last transfer across Rio Puelo about 1 km before the point indicated on the track. It is his job to do the crossings and he also does sportive fishing if you are interested. Look for a house with a border collie with a piece of wood around the neck :)

From Puerto Urrutia, the trail is clear again until the road. There is a shop at 600m on the right. Again here, the trail is closed due to fallen trees at the beginning, but the locals (last house on the right) will help you find another path. Clear trail until Lago Las Rocas.

Once you reach the Lago Las rocas you will be blocked after 2km. Indeed there was a landslide this winter and you have to cross a very dangerous part of about 300 m of rocky mountain slide. It is not stabilized yet. We went through but we do not advise it.
Also, there were a lot of fallen trees and the path was really tiring. The locals will probably clear the path in the following weeks. To get more information we suggest to contact the camping Playa Las Rocas on Instagram.
You can also consider the other routes or arrange a boat crossing.

Finally we arrived at the border crossing. Unfortunately it was closed due to the Covid, except for the very locals (people from Cochamo). Apparently Paso el Leon is closed as well for tourists. Be aware of that if you have to cross the Chilean- Argentinian borders, as small passes seem to be closed for tourists.
In the end we had to go back to Puerto Montt crossing the Lago inferior with a free boat (ask the carabineros), and then the bus-ferry-bus from Segundo Corral.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Nov-23 & 2021-Nov-25 / 2 days / Packrafting / SOBO / Estuario de Reloncavi from Ralun to Rio Puelo (Western shore) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Ubilla'''

We paddled in two easy days the roughly 40 km southbound.

Start at Ralun at Puente Petrohue: On the right side of the bridge (view in river flow direction) is a suitable put-in and good spot to camp. The gate was closed but not locked. There are signs of people occasionally camping there.

Ralun to Cochamo: Packrafters in need to resupply can do this in Cochamo about 16 water kilometers from the put-in. Both, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking. The western side is less intervened and more scenic.

Ralun to Rio Puelo: Again, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking but requires the crossing of a 4 km wide bay in open water. The western side is less intervened and more scenic but requires crossing the 3 km wide Estuario de Reloncavi near Rio Puelo. On the western side are also the Termas de Sotomo that are suitable for camping.

Wind: On nice sunny days “viento sur” often kicks in around 10 am making southbound paddling difficult or unfeasible. We had two partially overcasted days and could paddle on the first day till 4 pm when wind became annoying strong. On the second day around 3 pm the wind and waves became unpleasant but by this time we were walking the final kilometers into Rio Puelo.

GPT22: Southbound packrafters may take in Cochamo or Rio Puelo the bus to Lago TaguaTagua an get to the recommended packrafting starting point of section GPT22 halfway into this section to Flip-Flop as recommended.

* '''2021-NOV-18 / 1 day / hiking / NOBO / Cochamó Valley (Lago Tagua Tagua - Lago Grande) / Tobías '''

The Section between La Junta Base and Lago Vidal Gormez was very challenging. It had been raining a lot, so the Trail was very muddy and I had to cross several rivers and creeks. Went straight from Cochamó to Lago Grande and camped there in some Snow. Met only a few settlers. After reaching Lago Vidal Gormez, the Trail was easy and I enjoyed the hike a lot. Amaizing área up there!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-FEB-18 to 2020-FEB-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler '''
I didn’t have problems getting a campsite at la junta on the spot luckily. AMAZING area that I’ll be returning to again to do all the day hikes in. Aside from that, most the trail was very muddy, rainy, and unmaintained. This got a bit difficult after the 3rd day in a row. Good places to camp at the lakes over the pass SOBO. When I got down to Lago Vidal Gomez the trail improved.. I got some bread from a settler at the start of the lake. There right on the trail and super friendly and have rooms. The last ferry across Tagua Tagua leaves at 7 pm. I didn’t make it, so I slept underneath the office/bathrooms and took the ferry at 8:00 the next morning. I believe there’s another ferry at 12.

* '''. 2020-Jan-09 to 2020-Jan-11 / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

Despite the austere warnings on the La Junta Camping website, I was able to make a reservation at short notice in high season, and the back and forth process only took a few hours. In Cochamó, I was warned that due to recent rain the river crossings at El Arco and another nearby river would likely be impassable. With four more days of heavy rain forecast, I decided to take the bus-ferry-bus combo to Puerto Urrutia and try to walk northbound from there with the optimistic hope that by the time I reached El Arco the river would be passable or, at least, the wait would be less. However, 10km north of the Rio Puelo crossing (service starts at 9am) my way was blocked by a high and fast river. I then retraced my steps and completed the rest of the section southbound - which was straightforward. The trail on the west side of Lago de la Roca until the frontera is a bit overgrown but still easy to see and nothing particularly slowed me down. On the Argentinian side the trail is well maintained. It is not permitted to camp on the 12km stretch between the border posts. I arrived too late to cross that day, but the Chileans stamped my passport with the next day’s date so I didn’t have to wait for the post to open at 9am. The Argentinian border guards informed me that because of the rain, the Rio Azul was too high to ford at the point on the regular hiking route just before Lago Puelo so I took the alternative route (Oh-Tl-V@22-04-#001) a few kms north and crossed over the La Pasarela bridge.

* '''2020-Jan-22 to 2020-Jan-26 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / parque de la vallee de Cochamo - La Pasarella / Arnaud '''

As we arrived from Puerto Montt we were with the bus and stopped directly at the entrance of the private parque de la vallee de Cochamo.
As it is private, there are some rules to get in, or they block you at the control point.
The entrance is free but you need to have a reservation in one of the official camp sites there. To get the reservation, you can do it on internet (but you need to wait for the confirmation and it can be several days long), or do it directly there (red house), they give you the reservation voucher if there are places available (number seem to be limited). Then you pay the night when you reach the camp sites (6000 clp/pers).
Or the other solution is to say that you sleep in the refugio del Arco. It is 23km further after the control. Then it is free and no reservation is needed, but this is possible only before 10am (after they block you). After 10am the only way to pass is to sleep in the camp sites. They block you if you do not have a
reservation voucher for one camp site.
This spot (la Junta) is famous among the chilenos so the access to the camp sites is really overrunned. The path is easy to walk.
Once you go further than the campsites, you're alone, so it is better.
The path is clearly marked. There are bridges for most of the rivers you cross. But it is very muddy.
At the lago Vidal you can resupply a bit with those living there (you can also sleep in their camp sites).
In El Manso you can find a minimarket with lots of things.
Then, we decided to follow the road instead of the track because we were in a hurry with a deadline in El Bolson, until we reached la cruce de la rocas. There are buses or hitchiking is easy.
Crossing borders was easy. There are 12km between the chilean stamp and the Argentin one that we did in 3.5 hours.
At the very end we have not not crossed El Rio Azul, we walked 7 more km to the north to reach La Pasarella.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*In Cochamo go down towards the lake. There is a church on the left & before you reach it there is a hospedaje on the right, good & cheap.

Really nice Cafe (Materia Cochamo) with a good selection of coffee, cake (Kuchen) & sandwiches ca 50 meters before turning right to the cheap campsite.

*There is a good place to stay NOBO 500 metres before the junction where the road turns towards Laguna Las Rocas. Farmhouse on RHS of road has rooms & meals. Cheap, friendly & good

*In Segundo Corral there are two campsites. The first one is just before the school, it just says Kuchen but you can camp there. Cheap, nice family & they do meals. There is a campsite after the school but the owner was drunk & looking for an argument.
Lots of campsites at Lago Totoral (on the road, not on RR)
It's possible to camp near the Argentinian border control.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2023 / Martin & Helena
We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

*Zapatoria Puerto Varas.He is located in the back corner of a market like building across the street from the Santa Isabella on San Bernardo street. San Bernardo & Del Salvador. I payed extra (10mil total) to have them finished and ready to go that day

=Transport to and from Route=

* February 2023 / Gerald
Bus lago puelo - El bolson:
According to the timetable the bus is leaving from the lake every full hour from 7am till midnight

* January 2023 Frank
To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas you can walk on the road or get the bus to Segundo Corral then from Lago Inferior about 1.5KM from Segundo Corral there is a ferry to Paso Bolson (Chilean border control).The government subsidised ferry runs Monday-Friday only from 8-12 & 2PM-6PM & is only 2000 pesos. You need to radio the ferryman to arrange pickup, easily done in Segundo Corral.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
We decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard (+56958694897),we were charged 5000 p.p.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023 / Martin & Helena
From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake.

*Northbound and southbound hiking is feasible. However, due to the controlled private southbound access through the La Junta área, hiking in that direction is only possible with a camping reservation, or by arriving at the checkpoint before 10am. A northbound traverse may therefore be preferred. For hikers generally heading south, it is possible to take the single ticket, half-day bus-ferry-bus combination south from Cochamó to Puerto Urrutia, hike the 120km north to Cochamó, then return to Puerto Urrutia and resume the section southwards from there.

*Crossing the border is typically straightforward, however it is not permitted to camp on the 12km between the border posts. So if you arrive too late to cross, it is necessary to camp at the border post and cross the next day. In this situation, Chilean officials will stamp your passport with the next day’s date so you don’t need to wait for the office to open that morning.

*Southbound access to the popular La Junta area is controlled at a private checkpoint and only granted to those with a prior camping reservation, or those arriving before 10am and therefore early enough to make it on to the free and unmanaged El Arco campsite 23km away. Reservations for La Junta can be made online at cochamo.com, but there may not be availability and the process may take several days, so hiking this section southwards may not be possible.Therefore, an option for hikers generally heading south is to take the bus-ferry-bus combination from Cochamó across Lago Tagua Tagua and on to Puerto Urrutia, hike 120km north back to Cochamó, then take the bus-ferry-bus south again and hike the remainder of the section southwards from Puerto Urrutia.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT22 - Cochamó]]

=Images=

[[Archivo: | ]]

{| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
|+'''GPT22: Cochamó'''
| colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT22: Cochamó
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
| colspan="2" | D: Lagos Chilenos
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''160.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''51 h'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''136.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''35 h'''
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
| colspan="2" | Chile & Argentina: Los Lagos (X) & Chubut
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|137.9 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|85.9%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 20.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|14.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
| colspan="2" | Cochamó
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|10.8 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.7%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.3%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
| colspan="2" | Lago Puelo (Puerto)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|9.7 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.0%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.0%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
| colspan="2" | Published & Verified
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|2.2 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|1.4%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.4%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
| colspan="2" | Dec - Apr (Maybe: Sep, Oct, Nov, May)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
| colspan="2" | Very Useful
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.8 km)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.1%)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
| colspan="2" | GPT21, GPT23
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.9 km)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.4%)
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
| colspan="2" | 268 km (9 Options & Variants)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
| rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''111.1 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''81.4%'''
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 5 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 62.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 45.7%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 32.4 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 23.7%
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|Both ↓↑
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 16.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|11.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
| colspan="7" | Hiking: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
| colspan="7" | Packrafting: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
| colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Sea Coast, Farmland, Settlers, River Packrafting, Lake Packrafting, Fjord Packrafting, Partly Overrun
|}

[[File:profile GPT22.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

[[File:profile GPT22-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

<gallery>
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520254.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520443.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282465.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282466.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447503.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_101648648.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_104321335.jpg|thumb|
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File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447491.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447496.jpg|thumb|
</gallery>

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT22 (Cochamo)

2025-12-15T19:40:09Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
* General advice : The Regular Route is best hiked between December and April. The primary obstacles are high river levels early in the season and after rain. During the peak period of January and February it may be difficult to obtain a camping reservation at La Junta which could prevent a southbound traverse (but people were usually let through when they say they go all the way to El Arco).

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-12-07 to 2025-12-11/ 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO+EABO / 21-01 + RR + 21-04A (Packraft El Callao to Rio Blanco) + 21-04 + 21-02 + 21-02B (Refugio Viejo) / Antoine B'''

A section mostly in forest trail with nice highlights: Laguna Questros for camping, crossing Lago de Todos los Santos and sleeping on an isolated beach, ascending El Tronador, enjoying hot spring and isolated farms.

Attractivity: 4
Difficulty: 3 (long forest sections)

Day 1:
Coming from GPT20, I started at las Gaviotas around 18.30 and finished the day hiking up to Laguna Los Questros. Very pleasant path uphill. I met a horse rider coming from la Laguna, who asked for 10k for camping over there. I wasn't sure if he was the owner but paid 5k CLP (it's just a good flat ground with a pit, dry toilets maybe). La Laguna is a great spot to camp and swim in the lake, no one there but birds and cows.

Day 2:
Long day walking on forest trails with tabanos. 2 farms on the way but no one there. Arrived around 18 at Lago de Todos los Santos and packrafted SE for 2.5h until nightfall (barely no wind, clear sky, lucky conditions). The evening light were charming and the surrounding landscapes reminded of many places (Fuji for Osorno, Garda & Annecy lakes)....
Camped on a lovely isolated beach (-41.117963 ; -72.127518), close to the referenced waypoint. Splendid spot.

Day 3:
On the water around 10:30 for 2-3h, a bit of tail wind accelerating me. It wasn't possible to access the last bit in the river meadows (not enough water) and Rio Blanco has too much current, not worth the effort. So I landed in the muddy/woody shore, where a neighbour just left by boat (-41.15470, -72.09983). Short walk along the shore before joining the trail in the forest. Nice walk in the valley, then lots of forest trail, I went eastward towards Tronador and ended up by nightfall at the hot spring spot, by the river close to the farms (thanks for the tips shared here, really a memorable place). Camping ground is perfect.

Day 4:
Started at 12, walked to the 2nd farm and met 4 carabineros visiting the farmer. We hiked back to the puesto together (4h). We sympathized and they invited me for dinner. Lovely company, great memories. Camped at the puesto, free, water available and a little stream for washing. Good news: they just got equipped with solar panel so no more noisy diesel generator as of now.

Day 5:
Relaxing hike up to Refugio Viejo (option 02B), at fast pace (1h30 up). Loved the views (and not carrying any backpack 😱). It's quite fresh and was super windy up there so worth carrying jacket + sun glasses (very reflective with the glaciers). The CC path beyond the refuge, to the edge of the cliff is indeed not to be missed. Ran down in 45mn, amazing feeling after 2 weeks with a 25kg backpack. After chatting again with the carabineros, it took me 3-4h of forest trail to end up in Pampa Linda (17:00). Gendarmería is after the bridge, last building leaving the place. Smooth entry but the bus left (17:00 I think). Hitchhike was not successful for 30mn and I met cool people staying at the camping Vuriloche (~30k ARS if I recall) so I joined them for the night and they drove me the next day to Bariloche.

* '''2025-11-28 to 2025-12-02 / 5 days / Packrafting / NOBO / RP (partial) + Option 8 (Rio Ventisquiero) (partial) / Dave & Siyuan'''

Day 01: we got the 8AM bus from Puerto Montt to Lago Tagua-Tagua (7000 CLP), ferry (1340 CLP) and the bus to Primera Coral (2000 CLP), arriving at about 3PM. We followed Option 8 alongside the Rio Ventisquero on a 4x4 track. We stashed our food where the train meets the river for the first time -41.99928, -71.93188. The side stream Rio Correntoso at -42.01706, -71.94015 was a little too deep to ford so we used the packrafting to ferry across. After the crossing the 4x4 trail ended and the trail was tricky to follow. Eventually you’ll find yourself in farmland at -42.02391, -71.95023 with lots of barbed wire fences. We made the mistake of descending down to the river to camp.

Day 02: The farm is very easy to navigate - you should head straight for the gate by the building at -42.02519, -71.94891, then exit the farm through the gate at -42.02704, -71.94878. This then joins a very good trail which continues all the way along Rio Ventisquiero. We didn’t quite get all the way along the GPX track, deciding to get on the river at about the 15km point: -42.01938, -72.05608. The paddle down Rio Ventisquiero was absolutely stunning. Mostly grade 1 rapids, with a couple of easy grade 2 sections. Very little wood in the river made the paddle stress free. After picking up our food stash we continued to the confluence and on down Rio Puelo to a camp at -41.96241, -71.91332, which was secluded but just sand so pegs had to be reinforced with rocks. We got Entel 3G coverage at this camp site.

Day 03: The Rio Puelo was beautiful, but lots of wood in the water meant we were kept on our toes. We exited the river as indicated and found a relatively well defined trail. This continued as far as the farmland at -41.88868, -71.96327. After that the trail was very difficult to follow and very overgrown. We made use of our machete and made very slow progress for a couple of hours. Gradually the trail got better but we only managed to get about half way through this section before calling it a day. We found an excellent camp site next to the big rapid at -41.85605, -71.98205.

Day 04: We put in directly after the main rapid at -41.85389, -71.98136. There were three other rapids to portage:

1: -41.85020, -71.97891, grade 3.

2: -41.83783, -71.97900, grade 3.

3: -41.83532, -71.97799, grade 2.

We portaged #1 on the rocky beach on the left. This was simple, but the large rocks made portage difficult.

Rapid #2 is not visible on our satellite images, and we believe is it newly formed from landslides from the creek on the right of the river. It was easily portaged on the right. We needed to paddle hard to ferry across to the beach above #3 on the left.

Rapid #3 is at the start of the right channel of an island. There is also a smaller rapid at the start of the left channel. You should portage the rapids from the island. We portaged #3 on the left or the right channel. On inspection, both channels around the island would have been ok to paddle, but visibility down the right channel was better, so that’s what we chose.

After these rapids, the rest of the days paddle was very relaxing in comparison. There was quite a bit of wood in the river, but as the river widened be became easier to avoid. We reached the ferry terminal at 18:00 and waited for the 19:00 ferry. It wasn’t until the next morning we realised we were at the wrong location, and the ferry terminal was 5 minutes walk down the road.

Wrong location (toilets): -41.69748, -72.11422

Correct location for ferry: -41.69885, -72.11884

We slept in the unmanned building at -41.69748, -72.11422 which made a great shelter for the night, and had lights, flushing toilets, running water and power outlets.

Day 05: we got on the river at a great spot 500m from the ferry terminal at -41.64383, -72.17079. The river is straightforward apart from the rapid section as mentioned in the waypoints. We almost had a disaster and lost a paddle where one of the streams was blocked with wood. After an hour of searching we eventually found it. I don’t have any recommendations for a safe route through this section. There are several rapids, max grade 2+, but very shallow and rocky. The shallows were rocky and covered in algae, so very slippery.

The waypoint instructions to stay right is a good plan, but would involve lots of hauling your raft over rocks. Some of the rapids might be possible to paddle depending on your boat and water levels. Take care because there’s a lot of wood in this section!

After the rapids, the river widens and is much more relaxing. We exited the river and finished the section at -41.65247, -72.30067. We missed our bus so stayed overnight in an outstanding cabin in Puelo at -41.66261, -72.29580 for 40k CLP (https://maps.app.goo.gl/B8nh4TJS3Tw5aXFq9 WhatsApp: https://wa.me/56996127975).

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-02 / 2,5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / OP (02A) / 02D / RH / 22S / Daniel.s'''

In short: from Cochamó by public transport to near Lago Azul, then Lago Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, Lago Puelo

Day 1:
Bus from Cochamó to Lago Tagua Tagua leaves every day between 10 and 10:30 (coming from Pto. Montt). From there you hop directly onto the ferry and from the ferry you can take the next bus towards Segundo Coral (hop off anywhere you want, just let the driver know). I got off at "acceso Lago Azul" by Lago Totoral X {22-01} [25.0/187] and started hiking. The land owner charges (in my opinion illegally) 6k clp for access to the lake. Once up at the lake it depends on the wind if it's safe to paddle. I had low winds, was on the other side in ~2hrs. Camped at the beach S 41° 58.959', W 071° 50.706'.

Day 2:
Hiked the short section to Lago Las Rocas, strong tailwind already in the morning. Reached Carabineros at noon (they're open till 8pm), no Salvoconducto needed. They email PDI and get a reply before he finishes filling out the paperwork. Camping between borders is an option (around 2kms after Chilean border post) needs to be communicated with Carabineros. Paddling Lagos Inferior and Puelo is also allowed. I opted to hike until Lake {22S} [26.8/213], because of too strong winds on Lago Inferior. Lago Puelo is a little sheltered in the beginning, no problem paddling until Argentinian border post (open 8am till 8pm). Immigration no problem, camped there.

Day 3:
Wind picked up over night and waves were massive, so paddling was not an option. Hiked the 7 kms to the National Park entrance S 42° 05.344', W 071° 37.075' on RH (no issues there, it's a popular trail), bus leaves from there to Lago Puelo village and El Bolson every full hour until midnight (yes, I double checked, midnight) The bus driver was happy to change CLP or USD (small amount) do i vould psy the fare. You get everything you need in Lago Puelo village.

==Season 2024/25==

* '''2025-03-05 to 2025-03-15 / 11 days (2 days rest) / Hiking+horse+boats / RR 22N+Valle Verde+22S / Dorota'''

This stage was exceptional due to the people I have met on my road.

Day 1:
I took Uber from Ralun to the entrance to Valle Cochamo (20.000 clp, +56 9 9866 2101 Miguel). I was there at 8:58, so I still had 2 minutes to enter. I said that I would like to go to Arco. I have registered and got a lot of information about the route. On the road to La Junta I met Ariero, Javier. He was returning to his house in Valle Verde. He took part of my luggage. The trail was muddy. There were some tourists but not too many. Two boys were looking for a girl who had lost last night on the trail near Junta. Rio La Junta (98.9) till knee for women of 1.64 cm and Rio Traidor (97.4) also. I spent the night at Milico (Ariero said to me about this place) before the Arco (-41.42665,-72.05549). Water from Rio Cochamo.

Day 2:
It started to rain in the night. The trail was very moody. It was a really hard day. As I know, Javier and I were the only persons who made this day stage from el Arco to Laguna Vidal. We started at 7. Rio El Arco had a water level to my knee. But at 12 a.m I had a big problem crossing the river [80.9]. There was no bridge. I tried two times, but I resigned. In the middle, the current was too strong and the water was to my waist. I waited one hour, rested a little, and crossed the river. But it was really demanding. The night ended at the end of Laguna Dial, in Casa de Dona Luisa. The night, dinner, and breakfast cost 31,000 clp. I met a group of Argentinos who had waited for better weather.

Day3:
I had an invitación to the house of Javier at Valle Verde at Morros. It is 5 km from the trail. It was the next day with rain, so I was happy that I had a roof. Javier is a local guide. He can organize horse trips and pesca, and also has hospedaje. @cabalgatasypescavalleverde, +56 9 4945 9601.

Day4: rest en Valle Verde.

Day5:
I came back to trail on horse with Javier. It was amazing because it was my first time on horseback. I survived 17 km on horseback, also crossing a river. After that, I walked to Steffen. I spent the night at 53.5km. Here is a "fugon" house with a place for a fire. Here, I met arrieros de Lago Vidal. They invited me for asado and wine. In the night, it was raining.

Day6:
I crossed Rio Steffen (till knee) without a problem. In the morning it was raining, after that it was sunny. In mini shop 43.0 you can buy a lot of things. I asked for a boat to cross Rio Puelo. Women said to me that I needed to go to cabanas de señora Oco and from there call for a boat. In Manso I took a really good bear. At cabana de senora Oco (Fabian,+56 9 6102 0535 ), a man called for a boat. I went to playa and after one hour came somebody. He took me to the other side for 20.000 clp at point -41.74885,-72.065492. About 1.7 km from the house of Ricardo Garardo (28.9). I put up a tent at -41.76425,-72.05840, close to the house of Ricardo.

Day7:
In the morning, I returned to Ricardo’s house because his three perros followed me. He invited me for breakfast. Finally, I spent the night at his house. In the evening, we collected cows and sheep on his motocross, giving apples to the pigs, and made bread. And also, he showed me how to use the cable car for crossing the river. It was a really interesting day.

Day8:
Ricardo +56 9 6473 8749 took me on his boat to cross Rio Traidor for 30,000 clp. But I have not paid for hospedaje y food. In my opinion, if you take a boat from Playa de Dona Oco, you should like to cross Rio Puelo y Rio Traidor. I continued RR from 24 km. It is a good place for camping at -41.85365, -71.98192. And from this point, you have some bushwalking and till puesto 7.7 km trail is not clear. Wife of Christian invited me for the night. I helped her with carrying different things. We spent a very nice evening together. Her husband was in Puerto Montt.

Day9:
She also said to me that in Puerto Urutia from 9 to 12 and from 15-17 is Dario with a boat for crossing the river 1000 clp. Hostel Puelo Libre is only with a reservation. I took the road to avoid discussion at puesto 7.2.
On the trail I met Roberto (he lives at lago rocas at -42.01945, -71.86015). You can ask him to put up a tent. He crossed with me a landslide. After Laguna Mosquitos the trail is complicated because of fallen trees. Finally I spent the night in the middle of BB but there was no water. (-4×.05604,-71.83066)

Day10:
Day without problems. Crossing borders easy. Control point AR is at 34 km not 30. I spent night at camping agreste.

Day11:
I took variant 22-03 to Lago Puelo at 1.7 km before Rio Azul. Men said to me that he had water level till his hips. At Lago Puelo I have found a fantastic place for stay. Hostel La Estación 15.000 ars for a night. There are a lot of shops. The most economical supermercado is Todo, the most expensive is Anónima. You can withdraw money, a maximum of 60.000 ars with a commission of 14.000 ars.

'''2025-02-01 to 2025-02-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO (partly) / option 8 / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)'''

When we hiked/packrafted the GPT21-GPT22 back in 2013 we had some very nice stays with settlers in the valle ventisquero, so we decided to come back with our kids this season.

We did a 4 day trek starting at rancho Velazquez-Alegria (-42.02312, -71.93288) after an extensive almuerzo with the campesinos which we had not seen since 2013.
There is a bridge over the Rio Correntoso (-42.02938, -71.94279) where you can leave a car, so no need to do difficult ford near the mouth of the ice stream into the ventisquero river.

The first 5km it's all ripio walking where it changes in a trail just next to a ranch. There is nice camping on the river banks at (-42.01151, -72.02404).
There are safe cable crossings for Río Alicia (-42.02393, -72.05756) and Rio Unniverso (-42.03852, -72.12473).
There are several settlers in the valley which offer camping (see picture on FB page, rincon bonita is glamping with fly-in guests, so skip that one). Our objective of the hike was Bernaditta Alegria which offers camping at 6000CLP/person with hot showers included.

Bernaditta also offers half board (delicious food) sleeping in a bed for 45000CLP/pers/night. She has starlink internet nowadays, which is free to use when she puts on the solar battery 2-3 times a day for like half an hour. She still remembers well when we stayed at her ranch back in 2013, because on the night when we camped there, a puma came out of the mountain which killed a sheep somewhere 50m from our tent. It's a lovely place to go with kids.
There are a lot of wasps because of the fruit trees, so in autumn they might become very aggresive.

'''2025-01-25 to 2025-01-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO (partly) / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

* Primer Coral has a very nice campspot. Chance there will be kayakers around doing the upper section of Rio Puelo with class 5 rapids you can watch them paddle it, it's insane.

* I heard there is a cabin you can stay up on Río Ventisquero would be a nice option and you can leave part of your gear/food at the camping. And do an overnight trip. Rio Ventusquero supposed to be very nice.

* I was lucky to go with another group of Kayakers into the Rio Puelo and into the rapids at the Canyon. I had no whitewater experience but the camping owner convinced me it was doable and safe even if I fall. It was nice to paddle the Canyon and the waves felt huge. I had a decked packraft that still filled with water, which was nice and made it more stable.

* So if you are here and get the chance on going with a group of Kayakers into the Canyon and rapids , it will be a nice experience

* First I would continue after the rapids and the pickup would take my backpack. But I decided to go back with the pickup to Primer Coral and continue next day towards Argentinia.

* First part of the trail from primer coral to Lago de Las Rocas is closed the settler there told me. You can join the trail from road V723. But I went from Lago Azul.

- The trail (blue line) towards Lago Azul already started earlier. * From the road at you left side there is already a sign with trail towards Lago Azul.

* Lago de Las Rocas went fast with wind in the back.

* I had to stay at the border crossing because they only had electricity at 7 p.m. to register me. Next morning from 8.00 I could pick up my passport. I did not fill in am online form beforehand and that was no problem.

* I went to the Argentinian border crossing that is indicated at the map. But because I was with a boat they did not let me. I had to get my passport stamped at the maritime office at the end of the lake at the beach of lago Puelo. So if you decide to skip lago Puelo/El Bolson than you better not show that you are by boat and pretend you are walking.

*'''25Jan2024 - 28jan2024 / hiking NOBO / RR (El Manso to Cochamo) / 3 days / Clara'''

From Cochamo to get to El manso, there is the bus - ferry (lake tagua tagua) - bus. First bus pass at Cochamo every day around 10am. It comes from Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas before.
First bus is 3k. Boat 1.3k. 2nd bus 500.

At El manso there are 2 little negocios. In front of the first one there is a cervecería with a nice terrasse, artisanal beer and wifi. Sadly it was closed on this super hot begining of afternoon !
There is an inconstant but working phone coverage there (entel).

Lago Vidal Gomez. Possible to ask at the camping to cross the lake by boat, Francisco do the traverse during summer. 35k that can be devided until 4 people. May make you pay less if he has to go to the other side anyway to get other people. The family here also sell good bread, vegetables, beers, sweets,...

Because of rainy night, I slept on the north side of the lake at the first house. Marguerita has a sort of barn where you can sleep/pitch a tent and also make fire (for 5k). Dry toilets and water.

Then trail was on better conditions than I expected.
Camp sites along lago grande are really nice.
Refugio El Arco is a really good shelter if bad weather (all in wood, nice roof, closing windows).

Between El arco and la junta very muddy trail but nothing impassable even after a rainy night. It just slow down a lot.

The valley is really nice.

La Junta - Cochamo : overrun +++.

There are multiple buses going back to Cochamo from the end of the trail

*'''2025-JAN-20 to 2025-JAN-27 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 01 / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel)'''

Stage 22 is one of the longest sections of the GPT, but from our perspective (also thanks to our route choice), it wasn’t particularly difficult. Due to health issues and plenty of time (we had a scheduled meeting in Bariloche on a specific date), we took the stage quite leisurely.

The first part to La Junta is very busy, with a large number of day hikers. That wasn’t really our thing, so we rushed ahead into the wilderness, which starts right after the camps in La Junta.

In the Rio Puelo valley, due to health issues, we chose Variant 01 and rejoined the RR at Puerto Urrutia at the start of 22S.

The most surprising and interesting stop on the trail for us was meeting señira Alexandra at Lago Verde, where we spent an entire morning on the lake on boats and doing deep water solo climbing. (More details in the BIVOUACING section.)

ENTRY INTO VALLE COCHAMÓ

The first major challenge is entering Cochamó Valley, but it’s not as complicated as it might seem.

The entry checkpoint is at Road End {22N} [109.8/58], and access to the valley is free. However, due to high visitor numbers, there are relatively strict regulations. To be allowed entry, you need to follow these rules:

If you want to camp near La Junta, you must have a reservation through www.reservasvallecochamo.org and bring confirmation of your reservation to the checkpoint. Entry is permitted between 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

If you want to camp at Refugio El Arco, no reservation is needed, but entry is only allowed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.

The time restrictions aren’t enforced too strictly, but you shouldn’t arrive much later. According to locals, it’s also theoretically possible to enter very early in the morning before any staff arrive, avoiding the need to follow these rules.

However, we personally recommend adhering to the official regulations. There are many visitors (often with little or no experience), and if the beauty of this valley is to be preserved, some regulation and monitoring are necessary. This is also why camping outside of the designated campsites in the valley is prohibited.

For GPT hikers, the best option is to enter the valley in the morning, explain your plans, and then hike to El Arco, where there is plenty of space for tents and camping is free. (Although volunteers manage the site and, like at the entry point, record visitor details.) If you follow this approach, there’s no reason you wouldn’t be allowed in, and you will still comply with all the rules.

CHALLENGES

Ford at Rio Traidor {22N} [95.9/340] was very easy. All other fords on this section were also crossable with dry feet, except for the final fords over Rio Azul at the very end.

Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn’t exist, but the river can be crossed on fallen logs.

Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) was washed away. There is a cable car alternative, or you can cross using fallen logs.

At Settler {22S} [7.2/215], a man yelled at us from a house, saying we shouldn’t walk there. He seemed angry, and we didn’t feel like arguing. Instead, we walked a short stretch along the road and then rejoined the trail by climbing over a valley (near coordinates -41.98297, -71.88292). This involved a short bush-bash and crossing a creek on fallen logs.

The trail around Las Rocas is quite overgrown in one section, with many fallen logs. This rough stretch is between km 17.8 {22S} (-42.05306, -71.83367) and km 19.9 {22S} (-42.06622, -71.81971). We believe it may be possible to bypass this section using other trails, as well-maintained paths connect before and after it, but we didn’t try it ourselves and just bush-bashed through.

Border control was quick and completely problem-free on both sides.

BIVOUACING

The first night, we camped at La Frontera Camp at the entrance to Cochamó Valley. It’s a small and very nice eco-camp, where making a reservation is a good idea. Staying here was a special experience for us, as it is run by Pavel, a fellow Czech.

At El Arco, there’s a shelter, though it doesn’t have much sleeping space. However, right next to it is a large grassy area with plenty of room for tents.

At -41.56978, -71.93585 (km ~64.3 {22N}), there’s a beautiful flat campsite with a refugio.

At Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado), there’s a fire pit with benches and a small tent spot.

One night, we camped in the backyard of Valle Puelo Brewery. They let us stay for free, but the roosters woke us up early.

At -41.96567, -71.90571 (Lago Verde), there is a settlement run by a very kind woman named Alexandra and her brother. They offer cabins for rent, but they also allowed us to camp in our tents for 8,000 CLP per person. The price included free kayak rental for a paddle on the lake. We highly recommend staying here. It is also the only reasonable access point to the lake. Elsewhere, the shoreline is covered with dense vegetation or cliffs.

WATER

There is plenty of water available. The trail runs along rivers and crosses many smaller streams.

RESUPPLY

Cochamó has several minimarkets, a hardware store (where you can buy gas cartridge), a pharmacy, post office, and plenty of restaurants and food stalls.

At the Road End {22N} [109.8/58] (Valle Cochamó entry checkpoint), there is a food truck open in summer with fast food, and a small store nearby selling snacks and some basic groceries.

We bypassed Camp La Junta via Toboganes, so we have no info on current shopping options there.

At Lake, Settler, Camp $ {22N} [70.9/602], we bought very good and reasonably priced fresh cheese and beer. They likely have some other basic supplies as well.

Shop {22N} [43.0/49] is operational. It’s small but sufficient for basic resupply.

Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) is a complex of brewery with the best beer we've had in Chile so far. The store is slightly better stocked than the previous one and sells gas cartridges.

Llanada Grande has a fairly large and well-stocked supermarket.

At the start of 22S, there’s a restaurant with its own brewery (Hostal Puelo Libre).

TRANSPORT

A bus from Lago Puelo to El Bolsón runs every hour (around the full hour) and costs 1,800 ARS per person.

* '''2025-01-24 to 2025-01-26/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Option 02, RP, Option 09, Option 03/ Natalie & Tomáš'''

Coming from Cochamo, where we had to organize getting a new neck gasket, we once again set off towards Lago Azul. The bus for the ferry left at 10:30am (around here, -41.49304, -72.30553). It came five minutes after the bus that goes from Puerto Montt to the Cochamo TH. We left Rio Puelo at 12:00 after ten minute break but missed the docked ferry by a minute or two. Only had to wait ~30min for the next one and the busses on the other side were still there. Lots of people, so Entel did not work. The bus did its regular stop at Llande Grande (~10min - they have a very good non industrial salami there) and then we got off where the road to Lago Azul goes around 15:30. We managed to get a hitch quickly, but it was short lived. There is a man watching a gate (7mil for the car owner, nothing for us) and the car was only allowed to go ~1km further (maybe because it wasn't 4-wheel drive, and/ or they only allow certain [local?] people to go all the way, not sure). The road to the lake has recently been "upgraded" and is quite ugly. 02B and 02C are probably roads too, based on satellite and a little foot survey where 02B joins 02A. At the beach there were a stand selling empanadas, a toilet, about 20 people and 4 cars parked. We started paddling around 18:00. First going west for ~600m to check out an alternative trail Tomáš was interested in that is on OSM leading to here: -41.92170, -71.87635. The trail exists, but might be somewhat unused, as there seems to be a new road for cars built above it. Anyway, it looks like a more attractive and shorter approach to Azul, somebody needs to investigate it (we only noticed the trail half way on 02A). The start of the lake outlet (20 m) is magical with its blue-green water, a nice detour. The waves got stronger near the middle of the lake but then eased quickly. Near the end of the lake we had calm water. We camped at a spot we noted last year when hiking: -41.98306, -71.84801. It has a small flowing creek but is near a cottage. Both years of being here we have not seen anyone in it, you can camp in the trees and be mostly hidden. People vacation in tents 200m along the lake shore. Lago Azul is very pretty.

The next day was straightforward. Lago Los Rocas was "reflection-like" calm, despite starting around 11:00. We were worried about the boat and the Chilean Carabineros (read Jan's description in the manual) so we put the boat and equipment into the duffel bag and placed it all outside the Carabineros building, entering without our luggage. Everything went well because the men were nice (same ones from last year). However, we were almost busted when they asked us specifically if we were going to Argentina on foot or by boat. At first we said boat, but then they asked who was taking us, and when we struggled to come up with an explanation, they seemed to take our silence as a language misunderstanding and asked us again, so to make things easier, we said we were walking. We then slipped down using Variant U. If you are uncomfortable about this, it might be worth just putting your boat in your bag and walking the 3km to the next beach along RH. Variant S does not exist. Lago Inferior was once again sadly not windy, we started around 16:00 but no horsepower from the wind.
Tomáš and I had a small misunderstanding about our end goal at the lake. Tomáš wanted to walk up the river to scout the rapids and possibly run them back and I, being completely unaware of the obvious, agreed. I thought we most likely wouldn't run them and just walk on the other OSM trail. What I didn't know was that the river flowed against us, despite looking at satellite images and saying, "why does it look like the rapids are going in the wrong direction?" and noticing it's called"lake inferior". Like I said, unaware of the obvious. When I realized the river went against us I instantly hated the idea, but we were already past the normal take out point, so in the end we went for it. The first longish set of rapids (class II, -42.10240, -71.73502) is north (river right), so you cannot just connect to the OSM trail next to the river. We crossed to southern shore of the river and had a slow 400m walk and 100m paddle up to a point we could safely ferry back to the northern side, -42.10413, -71.73233. It was slow because of the algae/didymo being very slippery and rocks in the river bed having gaps in between them. You will appreciate how easy entrapment could be here if water was deeper and faster. A pole in one hand will greatly improve your stability and also a leash for the boat (walk the dog). We paddled up to the second short rapid(class II+?, -42.10487, -71.72934). Walking along it's side was more involved as we had to lift the boat over some rocks and it was a bit sketchy trusting our dollar store locking carabiners on our leash. The last rapid (class III, -42.10487, -71.72934) was much easier to walk along, once again on our north/river-right. We filled up on water after the last rapid and paddled towards the lake. Surprisingly there was not much wind and the waves only started to be not small just before the Argentinian border patrol, so it was a bit slower than expected.
All in all this option was probably a little slower than just packing your boat and walking to the border control and about as fast as deflating your boat, walking the 2km portage and reinflating your boat. If you are careful, it is not dangerous (slips permitting). When water levels are high, it might be a different story. It took us 75 minutes. If you go down river, NOBO, the first (going from Lago Puelo) rapid had some undercuts, so better walk it down on the right, but the rest can probably be run (after scouting!) or walked.

The camping at the border was once again packed, and this time all toilets were locked or non-functional, pretty gross considering the amount of people. There is a stream on the west side. The evening was quiet but fierce wind picked up around 3am, the wind was better in the morning but still not great. The check-in with Argentina (open from 8 till 20) was very easy and we got our passports stamped. I had a bit of "boat fever" and wanted to walk out, plus I wanted to be conservative with the waves at this lake. Tomáš felt it would be totally manageable so he sailed on down to Lago pueblo and I hiked out to La Pasarela. It was an okay hike with a little bit of water along the way. It was up and down basically the whole way and very warm. La Pasarela is extremely popular. There is a restaurant and a smoothie joint and many other food stands. Somehow I didn't get a hitch. There is a bus stop when you hit the main road around here; -42.05087, -71.59679. I went into town and caught the bus out front the hospital here; -42.05924, -71.59776 @ 14:15. It was 1.700mil and paid only in cash. The earlier bus stop would have been fine. Plum season is almost here, red ones are tart but edible, yellow ones need at least 2-4more weeks.

Tomáš: waves were sizable (75 cm maximum difference top to bottom?), from the camp I had to ferry to get out of the cove, but then I mostly paddled only to keep the boat in the right position and let the wind push me to the lake end. A huge parking lot by the beach, hitching does not work but the bus does.

* '''2025-01-15 to 2025-01-22 / 7 days / Packrafting/ NOBO (flip flop)/ Option 8 (extended), RP / Natalie & Tomáš'''

For hikers: the RR west of Rio Puelo is actually attractive and the part we walked was no bushbashing, do not all shun it :-).

Summary

Last year we were inspired by Tobi and Fangwen's (T&F) trip into the Ventisquero valley and tried but didn't finish due to time and weather. On the flip side, that meant we were able to return this year with a packraft, which made the return trip much more interesting. It is a stunning valley and a beautiful river to be in a packraft (a must for packrafters, Tomáš thinks). There were virtually no tabanos which was a biggie after the mid-January infestation of 20 and 21! Tomáš did the upper Ventisquero river after the view-hike in Rincon Bonito and I chose to go higher on the mountain of the view-hike as T&F considered, both not in GPT yet. The Ventisquero river was easy, class II at most, we hit our knees on occasion. The Upper Puelo before the hike was very easy with a faster flow, just a bit of wood (nothing that couldn't be avoided), probably class l. We skipped the first rapids of the Gorge (6.2), they are surprisingly powerful and should not be paddled by anyone unskilled or without a team. The hike was actually nice, not that overgrown and pretty easy to follow. Tomáš went back into the river a little earlier and skipped the last 6km of hiking. He had to walk one more rapid and ride two. The rest of the Puelo until the lake was once again easy. Upon approaching Lago Tagua the headwind was strong and paddling was slow. We planned to paddle to the parque Tagua (Option 11) but the waves and wind were very strong so we camped and crossed the lake the next morning, skipping the hike. Lake was easy and fast in the morning but the lower Puelo was slow for the first 5km before the rapids. We skipped the first rapid there and went down river right, putting in a bit earlier than Jan suggests, crossing a few small rapids and hitting our knees once. The rest of the lower Puelo was a bit slow but overall the whole thing was very beautiful.

Day zero: the bus

We again took the bus at 8:38 near Hostel Apel in Puerto Varas to Cochamo, we were told the bus that goes to the ferry (Laguna Tagua Tagua) was 10min behind the Cochamo-only bus. The ferry bus supposedly leaves here: 41.3160641S, 72.9853782W at 8:15 and then probably goes around town, taking a long time. The plan was to get off the first bus, look for Tomáš's inReach he had lost and then catch the second bus. Unfortunately, while we were looking for the inReach, the Ferry bus passed and we were unable to stop it, it was the only bus of the day. On the bright side, with more time to spare, Tomáš managed to wake up the land owner of Camp {21} [79.3/7], and it turned out they had found the inReach the day before and gave it back to us, yay! Soon after all of this (~10:15) we were able to catch another bus to Cochamo (later we learnt Cochamo buses leave @ 8,9,10,11,12 and 16:00 from Puerto Montt). In Cochamo, we waited until a bit after 12:00 for a bus to Rio Puelo (but no more buses to the ferry). We reached Rio Puelo at about 13:45. Since both of us were underslept due to Tomáš having spent the night vomitting (and having had little luck with hitchhiking on that road last year), we found a very nice two-room cabaña for 50.000 here: -41.66243, -72.29821, WhatsApp +56 9 4243 2328. (Entel internet in town functional.)

Day one: the bus and the walk, 4 km

The bus from Rio Puelo is said to be at 11:30 but didn't arrive until 12:15. If one is stopping in Puelo for re-supply, there is a small vegan bakery with good sourdough loafs (-41.6599144, -72.2974946; not open Mondays). Also Supermercado El Maiten sold gas canister's for 7mil. By one o'clock and 1.5mil per person shorter, we were at the ferry. There you get out of the bus and catch a new one waiting at the other side (there are two on the other side, be sure to take the correct one). It takes over half an hour and costs 1.3mil (slow but functioning 3G Entel most of the lake ferry, but not at the end, telecom tower at the northern terminal). The ferries are three and at least two of them go 7 times a day each way (December- March), so you are likely to wait less than an hour. The buses on each side of the ferry are coordinated The bus to primer coral costs 1.5mil. It still stops in Llamada Grande (10-15min) and the Entel internet mostly not functioning (receiving e-mails and text messages at most). We got to Primer Corral at 16:00.

Our plan was to stash extra food near Ford 37.5 (not fordable, maybe in February or better March). It seems it is regularly used for camping. We read T&F got their food stolen so we made sure to hide/bury our duffel bag of food very well. Unfortunately, after I hid it and carried on to the first ford, Tomáš met a pig. The pig tried to invade his backpack despite Tomáš only standing a meter away. He realized quickly our food stash had no hope against this invader. Since he did not know where I hid it, he started to pursue me, which only came to fruition at the river "Correntos", which has a fitting name. Therefore our first day was extremely short. Tomáš took both our backpacks across the ford (had to cross up river near the top of the islands where it divides into three: -42.01786, -71.93876 ) and made camp (lots of spots near the OSM path). The river was above his knees (173cm), but the length of the crossing, doing it three times and coldness made it somewhat challenging. I went back to make the duffel pig-proof, taking the OSM route that follows the river in my way (-42.00228, -71.93336). It was a lot nicer than the road, recommended.

Day two: Ford camp to outside Ricon Bonito, 16 km

Since we were both still struggling to get over our stomach bugs, we had a late morning and a very easy day. The simple 16km walk to Ricon Bonito felt a lot harder than it should have. As T&F described this section before, it is partially a MR, with a short detour, turning into a trail midway. From our river camp, the GPT track files follow an old trail used probably mostly by cows, until a settler: -42.02520, -71.94877. At the settler, who was not at home, we had to zig zag through gates and over one fence until reaching the MR: -42.02707, -71.94872 (it makes a detour probably to cross Rio Correntoso over a bridge). The way to Rincon Bonito is signed with little red arrows. Our first water was located here: -42.01995, -71.98929, shortly after the MR ends and trail begins. The last few kilometres of the MR were recently "upgraded", so it is quite ugly, and they may expand it more, but who knows. On the trail, there were two more simple fords. The first ford was a calm creek: -42.01840, -72.04246. There looked to be good camping just before it, would have been a nice place to aim for the first night. The second ford [15.8/164] has a cable car, where the GPT files indicate a bridge. Tomáš went to verify this after we forded and saw other tents camping there as well. Not sure if it was organized or not, probably yes. A little further ahead there is a settler with their own cell tower. Tomáš (who is from Europe) got full bars but my Canadian phone got nothing. There is still water just before the turn off to the viewpoint trail as T&F have noted. We went into Ricon Bonito to see what they would charge us for camping. We were surprised to meet a group of American packrafters who had flown in that day to paddle down to the fjord. There were 5 of them sharing the 200mil cabin, so not terribly expensive, but the plane from Puerto Montt was 600mil. Kind of nice to know we had a group of river guides near. In the end we were not allowed to camp at this glamping site, it is for reservations only. The men that worked there recommend us to camp at the Bernardita Alegría's (referred to as "abuela" in earlier seasons) 2km up the valley but they said it was 25mil a night per person, which sounded far too expensive for camping (maybe it included half board?) so we found a place in the forest not far from Ricon Bonito and once again had an early night. It seems that while the valley is privately owned (by several landowners? - settlers still live up there), there are no right of ways issue, yet...

Day three: Stealth Ricon camp to Ventisquero river camp, 20-25 km

The trail to the view point is steep but easy (~930m in 4km). The men working at Ricon Bonito had cleared the brush the day before, so Tomáš finally didn't need his machete. There was a little bit of water on the way up ( -42.03631, -72.09700), but probably best to fill at the bottom. You do not have to go all the way up for a view, there is a view point after 450m of elevation gain. At the top we decided to split and go on two different adventures. Tomáš wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero river with the boat and I wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero mountain (aka go to the highpoint above the view point like T&F considered). Luckily we both had successes and you can read Tomáš's description below. As for extending the trail to a highpoint at 1600m I HIGHLY recommend it. By using satellite imagery and intuition, the bushbashing was not bad at all. The bush is that dwarf alpine Lenga that is usually very stiff to walk through, but luckily it was not so dwarf. It was taller than me which made it possible to slither through the understory without much fight. There is roughly 500m of BB, the rest is CC. At the beginning I zig zagged between hidden open spots and then eventually made my way to a ridge-like feature that had many breaks from the bush, and some interesting views. You have to play with this ridge a bit because it is not continuous. Ridge around here -42.05122, -72.09511. Eventually you break free from the bush and enter a dry basin just below the highpoint. It is an easy walk from there and if there is snow you might come across a few small meltwater streams as I did. The views were amazing. If we did not have a plan to start paddling that day I would have explored the ridge. It easily goes to 1700m and then from there it looks you could connect to the main mountain, it will be a fun trip for one lucky person.
As for meeting Tomáš, we planned to meet where the track files hit the river. However I was unable to get to that spot as there were blackberries and cliffs, so I ended up taking the main trail to the river in Ricon Bonito: no one said anything. But when you take this trail down you will hit the bottom and eventually walk along two small boardwalks, just after these boardwalks, the main trail goes left, but dont go left, a better way in is to the right after the boardwalks. It is a sneaky path but it is there and leads you to a nice small beach. Luckily I was ahead of Tomáš and warned him of this new point; -42.02492, -72.09604. We had a nice evening paddle of only a few kilometers, filled up on water at the cable car ford and then made camp in a sheltered bay. Unfortunately the day ended with a torn neck gasket: I ripped my neck gasket all the way to the bottom when taking off my drysuit. I was terribly sad and in disbelief. I had been trying hard to treat it well, not pulling it, covering my face with a balaclava when putting it on, covering it with a balaclava from sun, treating it with 303 and so on. Luckily Tomáš had one bar of internet ať the camp site so I managed to find a store in Pucón that could ship a spare neck gasket to Cochamo (do not do that, ship things to Puerto Varras instead).

Tomáš's trip up the Ventisquero valley:
This goes beyond what is in the GPT files - I was not sure why they end up only in the middle of the valley. when one can clearly see buildings and meadows higher up the valley on satellite.Turns out there is a trail to them indeed. There is one more settler, Fredy Alvarado living here with his family: -42.03933, -72.13376. He is signposted, maybe he would provide lodging and stuff too. Up to him, there is an OSM trail. You can divert from it to a cable car over a river here -42.03852, -72.12473 (signposted by Ricon Bonito). From Fredy, the trail continues, it seems to be used by animals and is still fairly clear. When you enter one clearing, trail can be a bit difficult to find, join it here: -42.04754, -72.16677. Then here -42.04773, -72.17127, the trail fell into the river with trees (obstructing it, this part needs to be walked in packraft through a shallow side channel). It is just 50m and can be easily walked around. The meadows are abandoned puestoes that still seem to be grazed. I put in here: -42.04244, -72.18400. One could probably walk further up in the braided river bed if willing to ford, the valley is really pretty with lots of waterfalls and glacier views and the river would be packraftable for a few kilometres more. River itself is stunning (more scenic and wild than Rio Puelo I think) and easily navigable until Bernardita's place here -42.03202, -72.11899, where II or II+ rapids start (sorry, I am only apporixmate in rating). With a bit of scouting and skill (I am not very skilled though), the rapids are navigable though, as I ran them. The second and third are the biggest, and those are the ones I scouted, the following ones are a bit smaller but could have been scouted too. One can also portage and supposedly there is a path maintained by Ricon Bonito along the river bank (see OSM) so bailing out should be easy. Where there is the OSM path to the side valley, there were some cables so I assume a cable car, but did not see it and cables could be for water too, I did not get a good look. Rapids end around our meeting point with Natalie. I definitely recommend this extension especially for packrafters.

Day four: Ventisquero camp to Puelo Gorge exit, 26 km

We spent the morning organizing the online neck gasket purchase with one bar of internet and then set off quite late. The Ventisquero river is indeed gorgeous and at this time of year unlikely II+, the rapids are small and easily portaged if need be. Tomáš thinks II+ is for the rapid section he did alone - or possibly for spring months with more water. We scouted a few rapids but overall there were no surprises, and obstacles were easily passed. There was very little wood, and the wood that was there was big and obvious with lots of room to go around. I saw only one rapid with possibly dangerous strainers ( -42.02042, -72.06173 if we postidentified it well). There are two possibly low class II rapids here: -42.01429, -71.99931 and here: -42.01853, -71.99523. The first one is straightforward, the second one has a good line on the left of the main current. I personally agree with Jan's description that the river is shallow, we hit our knees a few times (canoe seat). Tomáš thinks it is "Moderate with occasional ground contact" at most - and this more in the upper part than the part we did with Natalie, that is as long as you pick the correct main line to run rapids, anyway it has a lot more water than Rio Huenuhuenu. There was one more water source for drinking further down the river on river right (-42.01882, -71.98949) and then Rio Correntoso if you trust that. I wish I filled up more because it was the last water until Bridge {22N} [7.4/137]. We got to our food stash near Ford 37.5 in ~3hrs. After lunch we headed towards the gorge entrance/hiking section (Rapids Start 6.2). This part of Rio Puelo seemed easier but flowing faster and with more water, no more shallows. There was more wood than the Ventisquero but once again easily avoided. However, there were a couple of underwater logs we almost hit. Tomáš thinks the river is at most I+, when Jan mentions "up to class III" in the manual, that either applies to November or is wrong, you can avoid all of the small rapids if you want and keep it strictly class I. We were totally surprised when we hit the gorge because we were fighting a headwind and thought we were moving slow. Turns out we were still moving fast (~13km in 1.5hrs) and therefore missed the exit by a hundred metres- you do not want to miss the exit! (the gorge is more than half a kilometre after the exit). We had to walk back up the river and ferry across it to get to the start of the hiking section. It was 17:30 so we just camped there and boiled river water. There is a telecom tower above Puerto Urrutia but we did not test it. Lots of didymo algae.

Day five: Gorge to end of hiking section, 12 km

The bypass trail turned out to be a nice up and down trail. It is only very little overgrown with some beautiful views of the gorge and powerful rapids within. There was drinking water throughout. We started late and stopped somewhat early. The first ~2km to Settler 7.7 (Christian) was very easy and clear but Bridge 7.4 is not there anymore, there is a new log bridge just up the creek bed (go left after the gate). Two men on stunning horses were there but we didn't talk for long. The overgrown bit technically starts after this settler but it was ~80% easy to see and follow. The meadow sections are the only places easy to loose it and it was only badly overgrown at the first beach after Settler's 7.7 gate (locked). There, the GPX wants you to walk on the river shore, which is probably a lot easier than the overgrown trail, as long as you find the entrance back to the trail again: -41.87870, -71.96787. Later, it would have been very overgrown after the last hill climb before Settler 15.3 but it had been recently cleared. I was very lucky as it seemed to have been cleared that morning or day before. There were fresh cuts, prints and horse poo. I often found the GPX was off by ~20m, which can be annoying in the forest at times. At the third beach (~6km before end), Tomáš and I split. He wanted to paddle the last bit as he believed it could be a good alternative river in, the rapids looked easily portaged. I was less inclined, so I walked and he took most of the weight and we met back at the normal put in. See Tomáš's notes below. Camping at the end of the hike, beach under Settler "Castanos", is very nice. There are lots of camping spots on the beach or grass meadow above and some tables as well. Near his boat, there is a tarp set up, if you want shelter from the rain. You can fill up on water at the top near Castanos or ferry across the river to a creek.

Tomáš: Rio Puelo in the section that is portaged looks like at least solid class III (that was also the assessment of the Americans we met earlier - they said the start of the gorge is 500m of big waves without holes, surveying from an airplane on their way to Rincon Bonito) and technically probably can be run by people who know what they are doing (but do your own research), as the Americans presumably did (but they were river guides). Possibly, you could even put in (somewhat precariously from a rock) at the end of the first beach Natalie mentions above, walking the rapids (the gorge is mostly not closed from then on where there are rapids) if you have got the skills (they are still mostly class III). From what we saw, I am unsure only whether rapid at -41.86224, -71.97834 can be walked, as we could not see the rapid properly. Also possible there are more rapids than we saw. Make your own assessment first.

Anyway, I put here: -41.85388, -71.98151. This is also a very pretty and comfortable campspot with access to water. There were three more rapids. First one well visible on satellite at -41.85019, -71.97913. It is II or II+, but short and straightforward to run through the center. Could be walked on the left, especially if you have a rope. Then there is a rapid at -41.83779, -71.97925. The main current is probably still III, I did not like it, so I walked it on the right, which was easy (and short, like 10-15 m). The last rapid is here: -41.86224, -71.97834, I would say it is II (or possibly II+) and I ran it. Natalie was faster as I ate, took forever to set up the boat and scouted all the rapids, which I would recommend you do too. Even with the scouting, it took me about an hour to do this section. The last two rapids were not visible on satellite, so Jan's waypoint ending the rapids is correct. According to my GPS, Puelo drops from 80 m to 45 m over this section, which is about 15m more than the manual says. The gorge is beautiful (but you will see it even if you put where recommened by Jan, it is not over there yet). Puelo here has a lot of that nasty didymo algea thing, it is ugly and do wash your boats after leaving.

Day six: End of hike to Laguna Tagua Tagua, 28 km

Rio Puelo was again pretty calm (and pretty) but then somewhat slow nearing the lake. Fresh (last that we saw) water not coming from humans here: -41.80219, -71.99786. We found a nice lunch spot here with picnic tables and nice views: -41.70008, -72.09018. No water but I recommend camping here if you know the lake is going to be too windy to cross and you don't want to take the ferry. However it looks like it sees day trip visitors. Our plan after lunch was to paddle to the start of the Parque Tagua Tagua hike. However, close to the ferry port the base valve in our middle seat inflation tube ripped (obviously a weak point in our boat as the same spot ripped on the main compartment while on the Rio Ñuble). Luckily it was just the seat. I stupidly put Aquaseal FD on it rather than taping it and doing the permanent fix later, so we had to be very careful for the rest of the day. The Aquaseal was a battle. I had been keeping the valve clean but the first few centimeters of aquaseal in the tube had turned to concrete and we had to make a new hole to get some out, I wish I had two tubes (FD + UV). In the end it didn't matter too much because the waves and wind were so strong at the lake that we decided not to cross the lake to get to the hike. For camping we went into the trees and found a wind sheltered patch of grass: -41.70132, -72.11486. We boiled water from the lake, probably not great considering the ferry port was right there. It is probably 4-5 hours of paddling from end of gorge to the lake.

Day seven: Laguna Tagua Tagua to Bridge 79.3, 23 km

We got started fairly early and the lake was easy to cross in about 100 minutes, even with some light tailwind. We stopped for internet at the north side. The first 5km of the Puelo before Rapids 68.9 were more like an extension of the lake, very slow (but pretty). It was easy to stay right at the small gorge before Rapids 68.9. We stopped to scout them and although they were not as strong as the rapids in the first gorge, they had many features we did not like. If there was more water it would have been possible to stay to the far right of them, but at this time it looked impossible to do so without hitting rocks on our knees (it is possible to walk the boat through here too). So we walked the boat to the far right as GPX indicates, there is not enough water to float the whole way. At the end of the walk (-41.61433, -72.21046), there is a a rapid you enter downstream if you want to re-enter the river. After that we stayed right the whole way, passing some more minor rapids directly after. We hit our knees badly on the last shallow rapid because at the end we went to the left of a center rock, we should have gone right (that was here: -41.60956, -72.21677). We found a nice water supply here: -41.61519, -72.24686. The rest of the Puelo that day was easy and it got slow, we had to paddle against the waves for the last few kms before Bridge 79.3 (it pays to follow the current, not chasing the shortest route). There was a fun small feature (possibly a hole) here: -41.63345, -72.25323 that we rode to the side channel of the river. At the bridge we got out and caught a hitch easily to Cochamo, and prepared ourselves to deal with the broken gear and online orders (the Post office in Cochamo is delivered to only on Mondays, so order your stuff to Puerto Varras instead - we had to go to retrieve the stuff in transit in Puerto Montt as to not wait in Cochamo for days). In Cochamo there are many hospedajes, the going rate seems to be 17mil per person. We chose Hostal Arcoíris (-41.49402, -72.30973), we got a small private room for 34mil. There is a large grass area in the back with outside showers to make cleaning the packraft easy, only downfall was it is very popular for Chilean campers. Good fruit shop here: -41.49456, -72.29692.

* ''' 2025-JAN-18 > 22 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 22N > 22-01 > 22S / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : aucun

Après quelques achats à Cochamo, je continue ma journée pleine de surprises. Sans que je fasse d'auto-stop, une dame s'arrête et je fais 4km avec elle sur la gravel road qui mène au barrage de la CONAF. Il est alors 15h30 et il n'est plus possible de passer depuis 15h, dernière montée possible seulement avec une preuve de réservation au camping La Junta. Pour passer sans réservation il faut se présenter entre 7h et 9h. Je dors au camping 200m avant le barrage. Le dimanche matin, je me fais dépasser par des dizaines de coureurs. Après La Junta, il n'y a plus personne et le sentier est plus difficile et boueux. Jusqu'au km 45, ce sont des montagnes russe. On a toujours l'impression de monter. Je prend la 22-01 puisque le RR est fait pour le packraft, et surtout parce qu'après l'échec du GPT20 pour demander un bateau, je préfère éviter de recommencer, 3 fois qui plus est.
J'ai fait de l'auto-stop 20km sur les 30. J'ai fait quelques courses à Llanada Grande, le supermarché est vraiment bien. Je n'ai pas vu de bateau au km 0 du 22S, preuve que j'ai fais le bon choix. Ensuite sur le RR ça alterne entre route de terre carrossable et chemin ou il faut pousser quelques branches, et enjamber des arbres en travers de la route. Mais le chemin est relativement bon. Attention aux ronces qui sont plutôt répandues ici. Aucun taon. Les 4km avant de croiser la 22-X sont en très mauvais état. Attention à bien passer par les postes frontière Chilien et Argentin, le premier pour sortir administrativement du Chili et le second pour entrer administrativement en Argentine.
JAN-23: Repos Lago Puelo

* '''23rd of december / 1 day/ hiking/ sobo/ var 12 + boat (rio puelo) + rr (lago inferior) + var 3 / allie'''

I started in segundo corral where I stayed in a hospedaje. The dueña helped me with the logistics of the boat transfer +56 9 2050 2809. The border control went smooth on both sides. The trail is well maintained and stunning views. When i got to the village lago puelo i tried to cross the rio azul but the current was too strong and it was very deep. I couldnt pass (im 165cm). I went back to the argentinian border control to ask for a boat. They called for one through the radio but no responses. so i had to take the detour to get to la paserela (var 3) which was an extra 13 km more or less to get to lago puelo alto. I passed some people that managed to pass the rio azul 5 km away from the pasarela. But they were quite tall.

* '''(2024/Dez/19-2024/Dec/23) 5 Days/ Packrafting/ NOBO/ Route K/ Lukas, Basil, Maxi and Tabea)'''

Entry point at Lago Pueblo and took the bridge over Rio Azul, which looked not easy fordable. The path to the border was easy to find and well kept.
The packrafting route starting at primer corral is easy and nice. The hiking path starting at 15.2 is partly in overgrown and takes a long time. The second rafting section starting at 28 km is also beautiful and easy however the current is quite slow getting closer to the lago tagotago. The lake should be crossed before noon, strong winds pick up at around 12.
Rafting after Lago TagoTago is easy, the rapids need to be skipped. pay attention of water vortex.

* '''(2024/Dez/12-2024/Dec/17) 6 Days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Route N/ Lukas, Basil and Tabea'''

Entry point at Cochamo. Dont forget to register in advance for the park, they will send you away otherwise. In the park the path is well kept and easy to walk on, although a bit muddy. Up to the camping la junta many tourist are on the way.
From el Manso, after the loop, we took a bus to secundo corral. The bus leaves daily at 2pm on the main road.

* '''From 2024-12-07 to 2024-12-11 // 4 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Puerto Urrutia to La Junta // Mo'''

Transfer from Cochamo to Puerto Urrutia and the other side of Rio Puelo with Bus/Ferry/Bus/Bote was easy, then nice walking next to the river, in really short parts completely overgrown, otherwise easy walking until the river crossings where no settler was there but I was lucky to find others to get me over, from El Manso to La Junta you have a minimarket in El Manso and a little further (knocked on the door of the farm house) and a farmer sells eggs (I just asked for eggs) after Lake Viedma. In La Junta there is an expensive minimarket. Other settlers (like in Terrentosa) might also sell food.

* '''From 2024-12-04 to 2024-12-10 // 6.5 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Pasarela option, Option 2 (Lago de las Rocas east side) + Gravelroad between Llanada Grande and Rio Manso // MiaimZelt'''

In general: no dofficult river crossings, the biggest challenge was the mud between Rio Manso and La Junta. Navigation was mostly without difficulties.

Day 1: Easy trail to the argentinian border. Arrived at 5pm and needed to wait until next morning for the stamp. Camped at the beautiful and free camping next to the carabinieros.

Day 2: Got my stamp and continued. Lovely trail with nice vies until the chiliean carabinieros. Easy bordercrossing. Took the alternative at the east side around Laguna de las Rocas. At some point i saw a sign, indicating the trail is closed due to fallen trees. I continued, the trail got wider. Then i reached the farm of german settlers. A woman (Vivi) approached me and we talked. She told me, my GPX-Track is wrong, because it want's me to cross their private property. Last days people climbed over locked fences, what bothers them. Should walk outside of the fence. On the other side Vivi waited for me and asked me to walk the original trail with her daughter. Got invited to lunch, later her daughter walked with me on the original trail (indicated by a sign "Lago Azul 6km"), while she cleared it with a machete. I did record it with my Smartphone. Sent it to Jan, you also can find it in the facebook group.
After the ford of a river the trail in the dense forest was partly covered under fallen trees. Several times i needed to check the GPS. Camped at a tiny lake near Lago Azul.

Day 3: Didn't follow the GPS around Lago Azul, because it lead's through the property of a settler. Instead i stayed outside of the fenced area. Found signs indicating i'm on the right track, directly before i reached the shore of the lake. The path up to the gravel road was partly overgrown, but doable.

Walked on the gravel road, later i got a hitch to the supermarket in Llanada Grande. Very good shop for a full resupply. After resupply i didn't find a hitch, walked 3 hours until a very nice chilean took me the last kilometers. Stayed at Camp {22N} [45.2/44].

Day 4: Due to the steep up and downs + the mud i was much slower than expected. Met 2 very nice settlers on horseback. Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) has a cable car instead of a bridge. Settler warned me about it. Didn't know how to get inside, because it drives away when you don't hold the rope at the same time. Decided to ford the river instead, was knee-deep. 4 more easy fords along my way to the nice campside at Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado).

Day 5: Trail was in better conditions the next hours. At Torrentoso there is a open shelter with lots of space for tents around. Along Lago Vidal the trail got muddy again. Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn't exist, but very easy to ford. The forst half of the ascent to Lago Grande was easy, but the second half was very muddy and challenging. Wanted to camp at Lago Grande but, Camp {22N} [83.8/1001] is fully covered under a huge downfall of several big trees. Trail along Lago Grande is in poor condition (fallen trees + mud). Camp {22N} [84.9/1012] is a beautiful campspot.

Day 6: Began with the poor trail. Directly after camp, there is a hole where the trail should be. Campspot near the tiny lake. Later one more huge downfall. Trail improves a little bit until El Arco, but due to mud i was very slow. 4 easy fords until the refuge. Rio Arco was knee-deep, easy ford. Met the first hikers directly after the crossing. Mud was getting even more, improved at the descent. Ford Rio Traidor was not difficult, again knee-deep. Ford Rio La Junta could be avoided, because above Toboganes there is a bridge. Didn't know. Could stay at Camp Trawen (13mil), was plenty of space for more tents. They have a small kiosk. Toboganes waterfall is worth to be visited.

Day 7: Easy trail in the beaufiful rainforest from La Junta to the reception. Hiked on the gravel road and luckily i got a hitch to Puerto Varas.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-19 to 2024-02-24 // 6 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 2, 1B, 1 + Variant I, J // Quentin Clavel'''

Lago Puelo - lago de las rocas (east) - Lago Azul - Lago Totoral - Llana Grande - El Manso - Lago Vidal Gormaz - La Junta - Toboganes - mirador Arcoiris - Anfiteatro - Cerro Trinidad - Cochamo

The section begin with the crossing of Rio Azul, wich was not difficult at this time of the year. Then easy track to the lovely Argentinia border, I slept on the camping there. 8 more kilometers to arrive to the carabineros office. Easy border, nice people.

Then due to the landslide on the RR (carabineros confirm me that the track is still not praticable there) I continued along Lago de Las Rocas, on the eastern side, following the option 2. Pretty easy to follow.

At some point there is a junction, with a sign indicate Lago Azul - 6Km on the right. I followed it, even if it get me out of the GPX file (and the nice and easy to follow track). Not sure it was a great idea, I ended up on a sort of small bush-bashing areas that I managed to pass threw and after few kilometers, finally found back the option track, clear and easy, and continue my way.

Then you arrive to a big farm, the one from Jonas, a German native arriving here when he was a child, grow up there and have now a family, living in nature, along the lake, cultivating fruits and vegetables, and selling woods. Very nice man, interesting discussions ! After his farm, you'll follow the valley but keep the left in the woods straight after his farm, if not you'll arrive in a big swampy area.

The track is less obvious and there's a lot of fallen trees. Few check on the GPS was necessary. Then you reach the Lago Azul. The GPX file is going inside the property of a settler. He's a nice guy but his dogs less, one bites me ! (Not hardly, but still!). Just be more careful than me going there, or go around the property.

One last hard push to reach a gravel road, that you will follow until El Manso (30km a bit boring), but easy to find camping and food, especially around Lago Totoral. Resupply at Llana Grande, big supermarket with everything you need.

At El Manso, there's a minimarket next to the cervecería wich is a place where you can camp. The track is quite easy to follow, and quite physical with all the ups and downs. I had rain for two days and this stretch was muddy, especially along the Lago Vidal Gormaz. Then it becomes VERY muddy until La Junta. I had the feelings I will never finish this stretch, and I felt few times in the mud.

I was definitely not presentable when I arrived in La Junta, and the contrast was huge with all people well dressed with clean sports clothes who smell good the fresh perfume of lavenderia ahaha.

I wanted to do Arco iris, but the track is closed because of a landslide. So I opt for the glaciar Paloma wich was surprisingly technical and steep.
But the surrounding worth it, the glaciar Is amazing, the fact that you can enter into it is mad ! I slept up there, there's a little circle with rocks to put your tent.

Then I reached Cochamo and enjoyed great food, confortable hostel and relaxing atmosphere

* '''2024-Feb-09 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Gerald'''

First: I wouldn't do it if there was a lot of rain. Did it after a week of rain in 2019 and it was a mud hell until El Arco. Now it seems at least until junta the trail improved (not sure). For those who don't own a trekking pole, organize a stick early... you won't have mich fun with the muddy situation otherwise.

The bus leaving Puerto Varas at 8:30 (Bus stop at -41.31617, -72.985396) charged 7k. Surprisingly they drove me to the trailhead, last time i had to walk from the bridge, guess it depends on the bus. If you want to get a seat you should probably take the bus in Puerto Montt, had to stay the whole ride. Seems like they will also stop along the way if you wave (check the cochamo insta for an overview of the schedule and route of the bus).
Arrived at the checkpoint at 11:45. After explaining my trip and that i will stay at El Arco they let me pass (without a reservation). They just ask you to register before you go.
Stopped at la junta to make a coffee and enjoy the view. They sell veggies they grow on site.
If i remember rights from Rio Trador on it gets really muddy. It rained 4 days ago and mud was not a big issue until that river.

Anyway, arrived quite late at 8pm at the shelter. There is a path to the right to a place to pitch couple of tents. After Rio Traidor (-41.407173, -72.092915) would also be a nice place to camp

In average only 2 tabano/day annoyed me, what a time we live in... Finally

Dona Luisa has a nice spot on the southern side of the lake Vidal gormaz.
To give you idea, here a short pricelist:
5k camping,
3k for a beer (brahma or Sol),
7k for a bottle of wine,
12k for dinner (meat, salad and bread),
1.5k for cheese

Camping at the settlement Steffen looked nice. Unfortunately i chose a spot next to a way too curious bull...

The camping at the brewery in El Manso is not worth a penny (they charge 5k). It's basically a dry piece of land full of goose shit. Engine on petrol runs untill 10pm. Only wifi is positive. I couldn't find a good spot to camp nearby. I would camp way before. Bus supposed to arrive between 14:30 and 15:00. Luckily a car took me to Puerto Urrutia where i continued. Hostel Puelo Libre looked nice next to the beautiful river. Hiked until the north west side of lago las rocas.

Ricardo (?) offered me a ride for free to the other end of the landslide. But I chose to cross the whole lake by boat. He charged 30k (I was alone). The radio is not anymore at the "port", but you can walk to his house (just continue the MR, first house at around [-42.019089, -71.861245] to your left, if you want to avoid the dogs take the small trail to your left once you see it).

Leaving Chile without the PDI document was not an issue (I requested the paper 5 days in advance and only got an auto response...). They did not even ask. Good views on the lake from now on. Spend an extra day at the camp next to the AR border control. All in all, nice hike!

Missed the bus to El bolson by 5mins. Seems like it's more towards x:30h. I think they run every hour. Got a ride with a car for 1k to the city. If someone is fancying good sourdough bread i can recommend "El Obrador"

The Post office is also doing Westernunion here (check Googlemaps reviews for more Infos)

* '''2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / Lilian'''

If you decide stay at Segundo Corral, and take the boat to Argentina.

NO NO NO

NO NO NO

DON'T DON'T DON'T stay at Mari Mari Peni Camping, (or another name) Amancays Camping.

I saved a girl hiker almost RAPED by the campground owner, and I'm pointed by a rifle gun force me to stop helping her at the night on 07/02. About the details, i type it and upload later.

It is already reported to Chile carabineros and Consulate in Chile.

* '''GPT22 2024-01-31 to 2024-02-05 / 5,5 days days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Cochamó options/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

After a month and a half, we finally did something standard! From Puerto Varras (the bus stop on Avenida Vicente Perez Rosales just after Antonio Varras street) we took a bus at 8:38 going from Puerto Mont that went all the way to the end of MR to the "Road end" waypoint (aka the trailhead). At our hostel (Casa Apel), they told us it would arrive at 8:45. Not sure if this is the same bus that others said would pass Puerto Varras at 8:15 or if it just goes to the road end only in high season. It was 7000 per person - I think they might charge double for backpacks, it seemed expensive but happy they took us all the way.

We were at the entrance at 11 AM and were let through for free when we told them we were going to El Arco. Nat worries this excuse won't last long. The way to La Junta is really busy (met maybe 50 people and about ten horses), easy and without many views as it goes through a forest. When we reached La Junta, we decided that the valley is too special to just walk on by, so we decided to try our luck and ask for camping in order to do the side trips. We asked all the campsites and only La Junta let us stay, 8000 CLP per person. Nat says it is important not to spread the word as they were nice people and did us a favor even though they were not supposed to allow people without reservations to stay. So, do not expect to be let in. We had a numbered site so I think they genuinely had some places free. If nobody had places, after ford 98.9, there is a maze of paths and mini-meadows on the left where I saw somebody camp illegally. If you hide your packs well for the day and then camp from dusk till dawn, you would probably get away with it. Alternatively there are some flat spots in Trinidad valley two hours up - if you start so that you would arrive by dusk, you should meet nobody.

The side trips are steep but not challenging, many people take them. We went to Paloma [November 2024: in our suggestions and in OSM, like the next option too] in the evening, it can be done in three hours there and back if you do not stop (we did). We started going up at 1715 and saw last person going down at 1830 or so. It is quite splendid and fun, there are a couple of places you have to use a fixed rope. OSM says there is a route to Cerro La Junta. It is probably an exit route for climbers, I did not see any traces of it, but it looked like it was possible. If it is, one could probably continue all the way to Cerro Capicua.

Arco Iris is still closed. If it were open I think one could follow the ridge, which is not very steep or outcroppy, all the way north to above GPT21 - only there is probably no way down [November 2024: in the Facebook group, it was said that somebody died there and that is why it is close, so maybe there is nothing wrong with the path, but it is closed officially for sure].

The next morning I went to the Trinidad Valley and all the way up to Cerro Bella Vista and Nat went ahead to escape the approaching rain. The roundtrip takes about 7-8 hours. There is a marked travelled trail to the pass ("El Paso"), the last 300 vertical meters or so are marked by cairns. You will need your hands occasionally, but it is not exposed or particularly hard - SAC 4. The views are well worth it. It seemed most people only go to La Laguna (lake just under the pass). We started at 6 AM and I met the first people on my way down around noon at La Laguna. The way up through Camping Vista Hermosa (the current GPT track) is not supposed to be used by people not staying at the campsite. The proper way up seems to be the more western trail that is marked on OSM. Going back down trough camping Bella Vista was without issues though. They told Natalie you are not supposed to use their cable car (the one more upstream). Tomáš thinks you should use it as it is the only one that you can use without going through either of the campsites (the downstream one goes directly from La Junta campsite). No horseflies by now!

I left the camping at 15:30, and met only one group of hikers all the way up to the second Camp waypoint at Lago Grande. It is a nice camp, bigger than the first, but no good water sources. Wild legal camping, if I get it right. Refuge El Arco is unmanned, it is just a simple wooden hut. I would only use it in case of severe rain. The way up was almost all dry after two weeks of no rain. Mostly through forest, with some nice views of the valley, a few more fords than indicated, but they could all be jumped.

The next day it rained (5mm?) from 4 AM till 11 AM but it was not enough to make the trails substantially muddy. Nat had camped under a tree on a bench at Doña Luisa (5mil) and despite the rain was mostly dry without a tent. Tomáš had camped at Lago Grande and the tent got very wet (but not his sleeping bag). The bridge before Lago Vidal is not there but there was a nice log. There are some pre-colonization rock paintings after Lago Vidal, one probably needs to make a sidetrip to see them based on the information signs near Torrentoso (trail 22-10 was signposted; trails in the valley are well maintained so I assume the option is good to go). On the last meadow before the gone bridge at 51.8, there was a cherry tree that still had very tasty miniature cherries in the beginning of February. It is behind the house to the left of the trail, maybe 40 m from it. I discovered it by going south of the house (nobody seemed to be in it). Do not miss the turnoff of the trail from the meadow - I went straight, there was initially a trail but petered out into a landslide. Camp at 45.2 is nice but bring water (reach it by turning left from the trail cca 50-100 m beyond the imaginary shortest route from the trail to the camp, that way you avoid any vegetation, there is an opening in the fence (-41.70438, -71.99186). Finally met Natalie after two days of escaping rain, she found a dry spot under the tree canopies there. Shop in El Manso is better than expected (has good veges and fruit) but not as good as the one in Llanada Grande. El Manso also is besides a cerveceria with wifi (you have to buy the beer). The bus only came at 1530 despite being told it comes at 1pm. In almost three hours of waiting, we did not manage to hitch a car.

The bus indeed stops at Llanada Grande for 10 minutes or so - it is not really enough to orientate yourself and buy lots of supplies. The supermarket had lots of nectarines! Should you want to go to Puerto Urutia, the bus does not go there so you need to get off and walk the minor road there. We could not get reliable Entel internet reception anywhere in the valley (calls were fine) along the bus route.

We went to Primer Corral to do 22-08. The first few km are not a pleasant road to walk on. We decided to turn back as bad weather was coming in two days and it did not seem worth it. Not sure how far the road for cars goes. There seems to be regular but sparse traffic on it.

We walked back for about an hour on the main road before getting a hitch for the last 3 km to turnoff to 22-02, as others indicated the RR is badly passable due to a landslide. The MR we walked was aesthetically dreadful and supersteep. We had to climb a locked gate right at the start. We found a miniature camping spot (dry) about 200 m before the signposted trail turnoff. In the morning a lorry driver waved at us so probably no issues with climbing the gate. Luckily the trail is much nicer than the road. We met the settler at the lake Azul, he let us walk through his property. The few km to the first very small lake are actually an undriven MR, but very pleasant, it does not seem to be connected to the road network. After 2 km, one turns left onto a trail, there are new signposts indicating you ca go to the "Frontera" or the lake - go to the Frontera. Until the pass, it is very clear. After the pass, the visibility deteriorates somewhat but no bush bashing is involved. Soon after that, there is a gate saying there is no trail afer a harsh winter. We went further and it turned out there is a trail. There were some trees on it, but not too much and we lost it only for about 50 m. From setler at 11.4, the trail is much more clear. Met a seemingly lonely girl from the next homestead with whom we had a lovely chat. The trail to the border control was easy, we came there at 1530 and were let through. They told us that it would be ok to reach the Argentinian border control the next day. They too had a very ripe cherry tree but did not pick up on my appraisal of it and did not suggest I get some fruit.

We met several people on the way to Argentina border. We camped there (wild permitted numbered camping sites - there was about twenty other Argentinians, the functioning toilets are unsigned immediately next to the Police building, the building that looks like the old toilets is closed). The next day we had no issues with getting a stamp and going down. The last CC part is a trail. We forded the second ford a bit earlier than suggested, it was waist deep but very slow moving. Took a bus at 1340 to El Bolson - seems to run regularly (the dog bandits there are aggressive, watch out).

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + day trip / Lotti & Alex'''

We did this section mostly as described by Fangwen and Tobi (El Manso to Cochamo base camp), so there is not much to add. We stayed at La Junta for 2 nights and did a very nice day trip to Cerro Bellavista (see description further down). The trails were very well maintained all the way. The only minor problems were mud and lots of horse flies. Like Fangwen and Tobi, we were happy we did the section NOBO, because the landscape gets more and more spectacular. This way it is also much easier to get to camp at La Junta without reservation, because they always reserve some space for hikers coming from the south.
It was a beautiful hike and especially the area around La Junta is really spectacular and worth visiting. We even met a fellow GPT hiker there, which was great!

Transportation:

To start:
Bus "Rio Puelo" from Puerto Varas to Lago Tagua-Tagua at 8:20am, then ferry to Puerto Maldonado, then bus to El Manso. We arrived at the trailhead around 1pm.

after hike:
Bus from end of trailhead ("Cochamo base camp") to Cochamo/Puerto Montt at 1pm.

Day trip to Cerro Bellavista:

Start at La Junta on GPT Variant G, following the signs to "Trinidad". It starts by crossing the river with the little cable car. After the walls of Trinidad, stay on the trail and follow the signs to "Laguna". The official trail ends there, but there are stone cairns and ribbons marking a trail that goes up to the pass. The laguna is crowded, but we didn't meet anyone further up. The view at the pass is already great, but you can go up even further. Turn to the left and follow the stone cairns until the summit. It is not difficult, just walking and easy scrambling, and the view is absolutely spectacular.
The whole tour has about 1300m of altitude difference. It took us around 5h to go up, and 3-4h down.

* '''2024-01-07 to 2024-01-14: Fangwen and Tobi / 2.5 days Ventisquero Valley (Option 08 + more), 4 days El Manso to Cochamo RR / NOBO hiking.'''

We did two parts along this enjoyable section, connecting them by hitchhiking and resupplying in between in Llanada Grande.

The first part was hiking ~20km into the scenic Ventisquero valley (Option 08), alongside a wonderful river on an enjoyable and easy hiking trail through farms and rainforest that mostly follows an old minor road. It's often better to follow the well-marked trail rather than the GPT track files. A highlight of our trip was hiking up to a fantastic viewpoint at 1100m with a view of the whole valley, its remote side valleys and glaciated mountain peaks. The trail (900m elevation gain, 4.5km) through the thick rainforest is steep but excellent in quality and easy to follow (but the turnoff at S 42° 01.737', W 072° 05.643' is easy to miss). This and other trails in the valley are not part of the GPT files yet, but GPX files can be found on the website of Rincon Bonito (glamping accommodation for groups) that presumably created the trail. We camped by the viewpoint; what a wonderful experience! There are plenty of places to pitch up a tent, but little protection from wind. We found a wind protected camp in a dried-out puddle at (S 42° 02.705', W 072° 06.193'). Make sure to bring water, since the last reliable water source is in the valley, just before the turnoff onto the steep trail. From the viewpoint, we attempted to climb the local mountain, but beyond 1500m, it appears to require bush bashing. Our track: [[Media:GPT 22 Ventisquero Viewpoint.gpx]]. [https://rinconbonito.cl/experiencias/ The GPX on their site].
The viewpoint is within the Pumalin National Park, but the whole valley seems to be private property and camping is forbidden outside official campsites, which begin quite far into the valley. There are plenty of spots to pitch up a tent nonetheless (which is what we did).
For packrafters, going down the river must surely be a highlight! Rincon Bonito offers packrafting (maybe only for their guests?), they describe it as class II+.

Our second part followed the regular route 22N from El Manso to the Cochamo trailhead. This was an enjoyable hike and we found the trail to be in good condition, although it gets pretty muddy around El Arco (and that's after one week of sunny weather). There is quite a bit of pointless up and down between km45 and km79. Additionally, our hiking distance was often 20-25% longer than expected, as there are many switchbacks too small to be represented on the track files. We liked hiking this section northbound, as the rainforest and the views get more and more impressive as you go along. La Junta has a lot of local hiking options (e.g. hiking into the Anfiteatro valley or on top of Cerro Trinidad), but we didn't spend any extra days because the weather was turning.

Logistics: to get to the start of section 22, take the daily bus that leaves at 7.45am from Puerto Montt (stops at 8.15 in Puerto Varas at intersection el Salvador/San Pedro S 41° 19.081', W 072° 59.038', and later in Cochamo). The bus company Río Puelo has a ticket office in Puerto Montt, their WhatsApp number is +56 9 7408 9199. From there, take the ferry across Lago Tagua Tagua and the connecting bus down the valley to your respective trailhead (El Manso for the Cochamo valley, Primer Corral for the Ventisquiero valley). Note that travel is slow... We arrived at the Primer Corral at 4pm. We left a bag of food for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately it was visible from the parking lot and got stolen, so we resupplied at the Llanada Grande supermarket. The bus makes a stop there for ~15min, if you want a quick resupply there (it's a bit bigger than in El Manso). We hitchhiked to El Manso, which worked after two hours of waiting/walking (not a lot of traffic).

If you are in the Llanada Grande area, go to Camping Reflejo Azul. The campsite itself is average, but it has the most beautiful river we have ever seen in our lives. Visit this truly special place before Instagram influencers find out about it and it becomes overrun by hordes of tourists. Day access is possible also for 5.000 CLP.

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1732098767296002/?app=fbl

* '''2024-Jan-4 / 7.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RH + OP-LK-2 + RP / Lauren & Sebastian'''

Note: We were told a reservation is needed for a camp site at La Junta to be allowed into the valley from Cochamo side, so we did that. However, one of the wikiexplora entry mentioned that they were allowed in when mentioning that they wanted to camp at El Arco Refuge but we read it too late. Camp Trawen is the most expensive (15k per person), which is the reason why it’s been available on short notice. There are several other sold-out camps around for 8k-10k.

Day 1: We hitchhiked to Cochamo Base Camp at 9am and reached Camp Trawen by 2pm. It would have been better to go on the El Arco Refuge straight away and camp there. It’s a touristy stretch and in our view not really worth doing, if you like the general quiet nature of the GPT.

Day 2: Camped at the beach at Lago Vidal. Easy hike but lots of ups and downs.

Day 3: We packrafted Lago Vidal and had a good lunch at Luisa’s place (make sure to drop by!), before continuing on to Torrentoso (not the paid camp, but on the meadow a few hundred meters after the official camp).

Day 4: The bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) does not exist anymore. It’s not a demanding ford but there are short steep ups and downs on both sides. We stayed near wp Settler {22N} [50.1/307].

Day 5: We rivered in at wp Rio Manso. The ride was super scenic and beautiful and there were no rapids, just a bit of boiling water but nothing difficult, which might be due to different water levels compared to previous accounts. It’s 45 minutes from there to the bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36]. We rivered out behind the bridge on the right side. There is a nice flat beach which leads to the cabin of Harv and Veronica. They let us camp on their land and even offered a hot (wood fired) shower for 2.5k per person. There is a cervezeria and shop across the road for resupply.

Day 6: We took the bus at 1 pm to intersection at wp X {22-01} [25.0/187] and went on OP-MR-V (along Hunter’s estate) to Lago Azul. You will be charged 5k per person to access the lake. We crossed Lago Azul with strong waves and tailwind so we sailed to the other side in no time.

Day 7: Crossed Lago de Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, and Lago Puelo to the Argentinian border control which opens at 8am next morning so we camped there. Next day we finished at Lago Puelo which is a popular tourist beach.

Tip: It is a hot & dusty walk to town from the beach and hitchhiking is not as easy in this part of Argentina as in Chile. Keep some small change of USD or Argentinian pesos for the bus ride to resupply in town. If you plan to continue packrafting Lago Puelo on GPT23 after resupplying, the earliest bus back to the beach reaches around 7.30am but it will be too late as the wind picks up by 8am. Lago Puelo is known for its strong gusts so it’s best to check wind forecast and paddle early morning 5.30am to cross. Therefore it may be easier to camp at one of the campsites nearer to the beach instead of staying in town. Just go there for resupplying.

*'''2023 Dec OH-TL-V / Anh'''
Note: the trail OH-TL-V alias Cerro Arco Iris [from La Junta] was damaged by big rocks in the last season and is completely closed. A new route or repair is not in planning.

* '''2023-12-17 to 2023-12-21 / 5 days / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO /RR & Option 01B / Roman'''

Route: Hiking from Cochamó to El Manso. Bus to Lago de Las Rocas. Packrafted the lake and Lago Inferior. Hiked to Lago Puelo.

Due to the border crossing, there is a thread about it on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1709504102888802/. I applied online - no answer. Went to the carabineros in Cochamó they couldn't issue it, so I went without it (it worked without a problem)

Started in Cochamó (there is a bus to the entry I just got him by hitchhiking so I don't know the schedule) and had a reservation for Camp Trawen (Fruit, Groceries, Electricity). This is getting checked at the entrance if you have one. The trail to the camp was a bit muddy (2 days of rain before the start) but all doable. The next day went to the northern end of Lago Vidal Gormaz and slept there at Lake {22-05} [7.9/604]. Bridge destroyed at: -41.43696, -71.96632 and Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado). Both are crossable dry feed due to trees. Generally, there is no fording necessary after Lago Vidal Gormaz. Before yes. Packrafted Rio Manso. There were no rapids on the map, it's mentioned in the Manuel that it can be challenging. There are some rapids but all are doable and manageable (I am a beginner with kayak experience and an open deck packraft). You can get easy access to the river at -41.692561, -71.972725 this is 300m after the mark in the file. There is a dry river bed to avoid BB to get to the River. The river is fast flowing. Follow the GPS only at one point where the river splits pay extra attention: turn left as shownin the GPS: -41.698615, -71.985482 . Went out at the south side of the bride: Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36] (Rio Manso) on the right side. There is a trail to the street with one gate where you can walk through on the right side. The shop Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) has good supplies and free WiFi. The trail to this point is very good. Based on previous comments and a chat to a local I want to skip at least to Puerto Urrutia [comment in: 2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07]. There is an official bus going all the way from Rampa Punta

Maldonado -> Segundo Corral. Find the schedule here: https://imgur.com/a/7MVEscb . The shop owner said the bus is normally there at 02:00 PM. The bus was there in my case at 02:30 PM. This bus stops at the large supermarket [Supermercado Llanada Grande] a great place for a last resupply). The bus also stops at Puerto Urrutia but I went all the way to Lago de Las Rocas and used OH-MR-V {22-01B} [8.2+1.9] to get to the lake. Started packrafting at 05:00 PM. The start was fine. The wind got worse during the evening and was to my capabilities on the maximum with serious waves. Strong wind from the north. It was pleasantly paddling after going through the gap at -42.069608, -71.813735. Camped at Lake, Camp {22S} [21.8/314]. Got there at 07:45 PM. Crossed the border without any problems. Packrafted Lago Inferior and got in the water here: Lake {22S} [20.9/201] at 10:00 AM. The wind got stronger but manageable. Exited the lake at 11:15 AM at -42.102244, -71.742575. The trail back to the RR is good to hike. From there, the trail is in good condition. Due to the higher water in Rio Azul fording and therefore the RR is not possible. You get also the recommendation from the Argentinien carabineros to take Option 03. I didn't want to take this and followed the RR to this point: -42.091481, -71.633667. From there I followed the trail to this point: -42.09399, -71.634188. There is an old dock [image here: https://imgur.com/a/5LMsKA1]to put in you packraft. The trail can be downloaded at the end of the comment. There I packrafted with very strong onshore wind and if it hadn't been for only 300m I wouldn't have done it to (03:15 PM):-42.096114, -71.628682 ,and walked from there to the end of GPT22.

Overall: great section! It's a nice trail to hike and packrafting rRioEl Manso is a lot of fun and a great change in perspective after hiking for a few days. After that, the trail continues bto bein a good condition. The conditions for Lago de Las Rocas should be closely checked. I would definitely recommend it!

Trail download: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5q7YZzDoW3qlKypqwBg

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-03 to 2023-Dec-12 / 9 days / PACKRAFTING / NOBO & SOBO / Jordan Jennings'''
Route:

took bus to Primer Corral>Arroyo Ventisquero>Rio Puelo (walked 13km of rapids through canyon)>Lago Tagua Tagua>Rio Puelo>Estero Reloncavi to Cochamó (nobo) took bus back towards Primer Corral from Cochamó, asked to be dropped off near Lago Azul.. Lago Azul>lago las rocas>Lago Inferior>Lago Puelo>Lago Puelo town (sobo).

Highlights:

Arroyo ventisquero: is well worth a visit, packrafting or hiking. I got told that there is a hostel run by an abuela 4km further up the valley from Rincon Bonito (posh cabins) where the route on track files stops (c20km up valley from Primer Corral). Between the hostel and Rincon there are rapids, so be prepared to walk back to Rincon to put boat in water. The river from Rincon to Rio Puelo is stunning and very easy in packraft.

Lago Azul: If you flip flop (as recommended if packrafting), and return back to Primer Corral for sobo travel as Jan mentions in the manual, ask the bus driver to drop you at Lago Azul, rather than taking the bus closer to the Lago las rocas trailhead/Primer Corral. The 3km walk from the bus stop to the lake is easy and I got super lucky and passed a local horse race (Carreras) on a Saturday. Maybe ask ahead when they are on?!

Other comments:

The hiking section bypassing Rio Puelo (first set of) rapids through canyon, the 13km or so took me all day. Parts of the trail were barely a trail, very slow kms. Although I was also a bit sick so my experience might be tainted. The alternative is taking roads on the right hand side of the river.

I hiked the section between the Argentinian border patrol and lago puelo town (13km) which passed through some stunning farmland (lago puelo can get angry with wind as with any big lake). The dotted line section or shortcut which requires two river fords was impassable for me. Rio Azul was not even close to being fordable mid December. And even if you did pass, you would have to take the road to Puelo anyway.

In terms of transport to Primer Corral, the bus leaves Cochamó at 10:30am and Puelo at 11:30am (same bus, which I think starts in Puerto Montt v early). From the ferry there’s another local bus that will essentially drop you wherever you want (en route) to primer corral. Super easy.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-18 to 2023-Feb-23 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 22-01 / Martin & Helena'''

A lot has been already written, so just a few comments from our side:

No problem with entering the valley in SOBO direction, until the noon aprox., saying you will spend the night at the refugio El Arco - they have some time estimate for this hike and can’t let you in if its late. By the entrance you can buy some useful things that might be hard to buy in Cochamo, like gas or peanut butter. There was also a beer truck with quite good wifi connection (only during summer). Crowds of people in both directions, quite muddy trail. Detour to the Toboganes is definitely worth it. We spend the night after all in a marked camp aprox. 4 kms before the refugio and it was a good decision - there were quite a lot of people when we passed by the next day.

From the refugio its nice and easy walking. We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

Based on other comments and our time schedule we decided to take the alternative 22-01 to Llanada Grande. This is a good resuppy spot as there is a new and big (at least in comparison to what you would expect in a place like this) supermarket that replaced the old one destroyed by fire. Good place to stay is a campsite at the end of the village, on the right side, run by really nice lady. Not expensive and if its free, you can stay for the same price in a so called refugio, that is actually just a very small room, but for us better than a tent. Hot water and electricity + possibility to buy pizza and maybe some other small things - there is actually no restaurant in the village. Some more road walking around Lago Totoral to Rio Puelo to connect back to RR. In general not very attractive part of the trail. Great restaurant in Hostal Puelo Libre with local beer and view on the river.

From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake. We thought about taking the RR around the lake, but the landslide caused by snow (aprox. 1.5 km from the port) looked quite difficult to pass. We discovered there is possibility to cross the lake on one of the locals boat, which we did in the end. We were lucky that after waiting for some time in the port a car with locals arrived. Happily for us they arranged a boat transfer with other residents to get to the other side of the lake, where they went for a lunch. We were able to go with them, and after picking up their friends, we all hop off the boat close to the police station. Great experience and we learned a lot about this area and people living here. We paid 10k CLP. In the comments here is a contact for the guy with a boat, but without signal it must be arranged in advance, and the price might differ when not sharing the transfer with others. No problem with the border check. It took us around 4 hrs to get to the argentinian side, where everyone was super friendly as well. They offered us to camp there, but we decided to make it to Lago Puelo, which took us 2 more hrs. The landscape changes significantly on the other side where everything is more dry. No problem with the river crossing. We got off the trail directly on the main road.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07 / 7 days / hiking / SOBO / Cochamó - Lago Puelo / Anna & Christopher '''

We hitchhiked from Eco Camping El Valle to the entry of the park and arrived around 8 am. We told them that we would camp at the Refugio El Arco and explained our further route. Until la Junta there were lots of chilenean tourists, therefore the path was very good only with some muddy stretches. Like Véronica we walked to Toboganes, a waterfall/stream with beautiful rock formations. There were tons of people, but it's worth it. La junta seems to be an amazing place for rock climbing, we would have loved to have some climbing gear with us.

After la Junta there were almost no more hikers. We camped next to the Refugio, as there were already two other groups of hikers sleeping in the Refugio.

Until Lago grande there are still some muddy stretches and blowdowns, but generally it is a good path. From there on the path is perfectly maintained. We camped at approx. km 66 next to Río los Morros.

Nice path until El Manso. We resupplied at the minimercado and camped next to the river, which was a beautiful camping spot with lots of delicious blackberrys.

The next morning we arrived at Señora Ocos house around 8 am. She contacted multiple people and luckily found out that there was somebody crossing the river to our side at 11 am. The man, whose name we unfortunately forgot, was super friendly and dropped us off after the river mouth of Rio Traidor, close to where he lives. He charged 10.000 CLP p.p.

The path to the first settler was mediocre and afterwards got worse and worse until it was almost pure buschwhacking. It was the worst we had so far on the GPT. Thorns.. Lots of thorns tearing away at your clothes, backpack and skin.
We camped at the river at approx. km 12, which was a beautiful spot.
Until the settlement Las Nieves the path continued beeing bad with lots of bush bashing. The settler told us that no locals use that path and she also told us that there are no regular boat transfers to Puerto Urrutia on weekends (it was sunday..).
We wouldn't do that stretch next to Rio Puelo again and instead hitchhike from El Manso to Puerto Urrutia.

At the boat transfer waypoint to Puerto Urrutia we had Entel service and contacted one lodging on the other side. They told us to go to the last house 1km back to ask for a transfer (it's the house of the man who does the boat transfer on weekdays). But we got lucky and a boat passed by and took us to the other side. The man on the boat also told us that the path from Río Traidor to Puerto Urrutia "is closed".

We continued to Lago verde, where we planned to camp, but it's surrounded by dense forest, apart from a private property.
That spot is amazing, a little landing stage to go swimming, a great view and a very friendly owner. She even baked some delicious apple bread for us. For camping she charged us 8000 CLP p.p.. That was definetly worth it.

After Lago verde there is a minimarket. We didn't check it out, but there is no resupply wp yet.

After reading previous blogs and having had enough of thorns we decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard. We also got his number (+56958694897), if you want to contact him in advance. When we arrived at the lake, there were already lots of people waiting for the boat so we just waited with them and after some time got knocked the boat with them. The ride was really nice across the crystal clear blue water and we were charged 5000 p.p.

From the southern end of the lake it's just a couple of minutes to walk to the chilenian border control. We continued on and camped at km 30 at the river. Again a really beautiful spot.

The next day we passed the argentinian border control and continued to Lago Puelo.

The section was really beautiful, except the part with the thorns. There are lots of streams along the whole trail, so one does not need to carry much water.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Feb-02 / 5 days / hiking / NOBO / RR mostly / Frank'''

I got the bus-ferry-bus from Puerto Montt to Segundo Corral. To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas & delays with the river ferries I walked on the road from Segundo Corral to El Manso, about 50KM. Easy but not very interesting walking. It takes a full day to get from Puerto Montt on the bus to Segundo Corral so I believe it would be better to go SOBO with an early start to get through La Junta, otherwise you need 2 additional days for travel.

Stayed @ nice & cheap campsite at bridge over Rio Colorado & camped at El Arco. The trail approaching El Arco was muddy & a bit swampy (it had been raining). It's possible to go by boat across Lago Vidal Gomez but it's an easy 3 hour walk.

Got the bus again to Segundo Corral & ferry to Paso Bolson. The trail across the border is generally in good condition. There is some easy bushbashing on the Chilean side for about 1KM before the border & some fallen trees but they are straightforward to go over. Rio Azul was easily fordable in early February.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-14 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR, also GPT22-01 / Véronica '''

Route: Cochamó - La Junta - Lago Vidal Gormáz - El Manso - Puerto Urrutio via Option 1 - Lago Las Rocas - Lago Puelo (Argentina)

The borders of Paso El León and Paso El Bolsón are both opened again for tourists! Go for it! It is a beautiful section with wonderful people, such a contrast to where I started the GPT further north.

In Cochamó, I stayed at Eco Camping El Valle, right at the entrance to the Cochamó River Valley. Paid 7000 clp, very nice campground, there are tarps over the picnic tables at each site so you have a dry place to hang out even if it rains :) Since I spent the night so close to the trailhead, it was easy to get to the guarded valley entrance (Road End {22N} [109.8/58]) early. I did not have a camping reservation for La Junta. I arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 a.m., explained my route to the staff, saying I would stay at Refugio El Arco that night. They let me through no problem. The trail to La Junta is a bit muddy, but nothing bad, my feet stayed dry in my trailrunners despite the fact it was also raining off and on. Beautiful path through the Valvidian rainforest, I really enjoyed all the green and the moss. When I reached the La Junta area, I stashed my pack in some trees and made a short detour to Las Toboganes. They are only 0.7 km off the regular route, and highly worthwhile to see! What a spectacular area, I totally see the Yosemite resemblence, and would love to go back someday.

I found the trail after La Junta (all the way to Lago Vidal Gormáz) to be in good shape, contrary to what others have written. It was maybe slightly less maintained than the popular trail leading into the valley, but it was still very clear and easy to follow — not overgrown, no blowdowns, just a bit muddy in some places. Granted, it has been drier than normal so far this summer. None of the fords went above my knees, and sometimes I could cross the creeks without even getting my feet wet, all very easy.

The refugio at El Arco is dark and without any furniture inside. I found it much nicer to camp in the nearby meadow just south of the trail there. There are outhouses.

Nice path from Lago Vidal Gormáz all the way to El Manso. Very beautiful in this valley as well. Met a few arrieros along the way. Most of the rivers have bridges crossing them. There is a small camp at the bridge over Río Colorado.

In El Manso, I topped off my food supply at the shop on the main road. It has a good selection of food items. Then I went to Señora Oco's house to try and arrange a boat transfer over Río Puelo. She and her family are very friendly and welcoming. I arrived there mid-afternoon, but she could not get in radio contact with anyone on the other side. In the evening, we heard back from Hospedaje Nancy, who charged 60,000 clp for a crossing upriver all the way to Río Traidor (where she lives). This I found too expensive for me traveling alone. Señora Oco baked some bread and I was able to buy some. She also said I was welcome to camp in the fields behind her house while waiting for a response from settlers Paulina and Jovino regarding a crossing to their place (much more direct and therefore likely much cheaper). The next morning, we still hadn't received any response from Paulina and Jovino either via radio or Whatsapp (they may have been away). Because of this, I decided to take the gravel road to Puerto Urrutia (Option 1), and forgo crossing Río Puelo, unfortunately. Despite this setback, I'm really glad I got to meet and spend time with Señora Oco and her family, they are such kind people.

I was able to hitch most of the way to Puerto Urrutia, where I rejoined the regular route. The trail from there all the way to Lago Las Rocas is mostly easy and clear. There were a few confusing junctions in the vicinity of Lago Verde, so I kept a close eye on the GPS there. After crossing the road after that, the beginning of RR -TL-V {22S} [2.8/7.1+2.7] is tricky to find. There are lots of fallen trees and many forest paths. The GPS was very helpful there too until I finally found the right path. After about 700 m it merges with a nice clear path all the way to Lago Las Rocas.

As has been previously reported, there is a large rockslide about 2 km in once you reach Lago Las Rocas. It didn't look overly dangerous to me, the boulders were large and seemed solid enough. I started crossing it right at the bottom where the rocks fall into the lake, as it looked to be the easiest and safest way across. I was maybe 50 meters through it, when a boat came along, and the people in it told me to hop in! What lucky timing! As we passed the rest of the rockslide, I could see the last part of it was steep, loose scree rather than big boulders. That part would have definitely been nerve-wracking to cross, and I was very grateful for the boat ride. The settlers who owned the boat live about 3 km along the trail, at a little bay/inlet in the lake. They have a nice beach and campground too. That's where I rejoined the trail. Beyond their house, the "Camino Los Mosquitos," as it is locally called, gets progressively worse in terms of overgrowth and blowdowns. The trail has not been cleared since the past winter, and not been used either. The stretch between kilometers 4 and 6.5 is the worst. It felt more like pure bushwhacking than following a trail. The path was mostly burried beneath walls of downed trees and branches, it got very hard to follow at times. Lots of climbing over and under vegetation, some of it quite thorny too. Very slow and tiring. My pack got ripped up a bit and so did my clothing. Had I known the trail was this bad, I would have taken the option on the east side of Lago Las Rocas. It's hard to imagine it could be in worse shape than the regular route.

When I got to the Chilean Border Control it was around 6:30 p.m., so too late to cross that day. The border agent working there was very friendly, but he couldn't get in contact with his supervisor to get approval for stamping my passport with the next day's date. So I camped back at Lago Las Rocas, and the next morning came back at 8 a.m. when the border post reopened. The trail on the Chilean side of the border was a bit rough in places, it has been neglected since the winter too. But it was not as bad as the previous stretch along Lago Las Rocas. Once I got into Argentina, it got much better. The trails in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo are well-maintained, and I met some day hikers. No issues at the Argentine Border Control.

I was able to ford Río Azul easily, thanks to the dry weather. There are three branches of the river to cross (the GPS waypoints only show two of them). The middle branch is the widest and deepest. The water there went up to my upper thighs (I'm 165 cm), but the current was slow and it never felt dangerous.

Now I'm skipping down to GPT32 to continue my adventure further south :) The northern sections that I hiked from 6 to 22 were simply amazing, with great weather almost the entire time. Thank you, all!

* '''2022-Oct-19 to 2022-Oct-24 / 6 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / ???'''

Here are the main points because our story is long :)
Paso el bolson and El Leon are closed for tourists until further notice
Some of trails are in bad condition because of the hard winter but they might be cleared in the following weeks.
Landslide in Lago Las rocas - very dangerous part to cross. We suggest to take an optional route

The trail starts in valle cochamo. We did not have any reservations but as we were in low season we were not worried. However the lady from the tourist office in Cochamo told us to arrive at the entrance of the valley between 7 & 8 to avoid being rejected. At 7h50 there was nobody at the reception so we did not have any trouble, but we cannot say for the high season.
You can arrange a car transfer to go the valley entrance. The numbers of the drivers are available at the tourist office.

The trail until La Junta is muddy but well maintained - no worries there. Up there we met some arrieros and the locals from the camping and they told us that the trail was closed a bit further because of snow (up to 2 meters) in laguna Blanca. This is the highest part of the trail (about 1100m). The river crossings were feasible, but as they forecasted rain for the next day, we preferred to turn back in order to avoid being blocked between high rivers and snow.

Back on the road between Cochamo and Puelo, we caught at about 10:30 the bus that leaves at 7:45 from Puerto Montt, to go to Rio Manso. There is a well furnished Shop where you can even find gas.
We remained in the Southbound direction and went to Senora Oco's house. She was very welcoming, and her and her grandchild helped us in arranging a boat transfer for the following morning (nothing was possible the same day). We paid 50000 pesos to go from their house to Rio Traidor - close to Nancy hospedaje. Indeed, we skipped the first part of the trail as they told us that it was very closed with a lot of small trees and not used anymore. Maybe it would be cheaper to cross a bit south using the cable car or directly from Manso to Rio Traidor.

Until the Rio Tigre, settler # 22N [7.7/157], the trail is visible but sometimes with some obstacles (fallen trees). After this settling, you will have to cross the Rio Tigre which might be the hardest to cross on your way if you have a lot of rain. There is a bridge indicated on the tracks but it has been swept away this winter. The best place to cross is a bit higher following the river, follow the horse track. We did not have any problem crossing, and probably the settler could help you with his horse if the river is too high. That is an advantage of the Southbound direction.

After, the trail is really clear. We found the last transfer across Rio Puelo about 1 km before the point indicated on the track. It is his job to do the crossings and he also does sportive fishing if you are interested. Look for a house with a border collie with a piece of wood around the neck :)

From Puerto Urrutia, the trail is clear again until the road. There is a shop at 600m on the right. Again here, the trail is closed due to fallen trees at the beginning, but the locals (last house on the right) will help you find another path. Clear trail until Lago Las Rocas.

Once you reach the Lago Las rocas you will be blocked after 2km. Indeed there was a landslide this winter and you have to cross a very dangerous part of about 300 m of rocky mountain slide. It is not stabilized yet. We went through but we do not advise it.
Also, there were a lot of fallen trees and the path was really tiring. The locals will probably clear the path in the following weeks. To get more information we suggest to contact the camping Playa Las Rocas on Instagram.
You can also consider the other routes or arrange a boat crossing.

Finally we arrived at the border crossing. Unfortunately it was closed due to the Covid, except for the very locals (people from Cochamo). Apparently Paso el Leon is closed as well for tourists. Be aware of that if you have to cross the Chilean- Argentinian borders, as small passes seem to be closed for tourists.
In the end we had to go back to Puerto Montt crossing the Lago inferior with a free boat (ask the carabineros), and then the bus-ferry-bus from Segundo Corral.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Nov-23 & 2021-Nov-25 / 2 days / Packrafting / SOBO / Estuario de Reloncavi from Ralun to Rio Puelo (Western shore) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Ubilla'''

We paddled in two easy days the roughly 40 km southbound.

Start at Ralun at Puente Petrohue: On the right side of the bridge (view in river flow direction) is a suitable put-in and good spot to camp. The gate was closed but not locked. There are signs of people occasionally camping there.

Ralun to Cochamo: Packrafters in need to resupply can do this in Cochamo about 16 water kilometers from the put-in. Both, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking. The western side is less intervened and more scenic.

Ralun to Rio Puelo: Again, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking but requires the crossing of a 4 km wide bay in open water. The western side is less intervened and more scenic but requires crossing the 3 km wide Estuario de Reloncavi near Rio Puelo. On the western side are also the Termas de Sotomo that are suitable for camping.

Wind: On nice sunny days “viento sur” often kicks in around 10 am making southbound paddling difficult or unfeasible. We had two partially overcasted days and could paddle on the first day till 4 pm when wind became annoying strong. On the second day around 3 pm the wind and waves became unpleasant but by this time we were walking the final kilometers into Rio Puelo.

GPT22: Southbound packrafters may take in Cochamo or Rio Puelo the bus to Lago TaguaTagua an get to the recommended packrafting starting point of section GPT22 halfway into this section to Flip-Flop as recommended.

* '''2021-NOV-18 / 1 day / hiking / NOBO / Cochamó Valley (Lago Tagua Tagua - Lago Grande) / Tobías '''

The Section between La Junta Base and Lago Vidal Gormez was very challenging. It had been raining a lot, so the Trail was very muddy and I had to cross several rivers and creeks. Went straight from Cochamó to Lago Grande and camped there in some Snow. Met only a few settlers. After reaching Lago Vidal Gormez, the Trail was easy and I enjoyed the hike a lot. Amaizing área up there!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-FEB-18 to 2020-FEB-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler '''
I didn’t have problems getting a campsite at la junta on the spot luckily. AMAZING area that I’ll be returning to again to do all the day hikes in. Aside from that, most the trail was very muddy, rainy, and unmaintained. This got a bit difficult after the 3rd day in a row. Good places to camp at the lakes over the pass SOBO. When I got down to Lago Vidal Gomez the trail improved.. I got some bread from a settler at the start of the lake. There right on the trail and super friendly and have rooms. The last ferry across Tagua Tagua leaves at 7 pm. I didn’t make it, so I slept underneath the office/bathrooms and took the ferry at 8:00 the next morning. I believe there’s another ferry at 12.

* '''. 2020-Jan-09 to 2020-Jan-11 / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

Despite the austere warnings on the La Junta Camping website, I was able to make a reservation at short notice in high season, and the back and forth process only took a few hours. In Cochamó, I was warned that due to recent rain the river crossings at El Arco and another nearby river would likely be impassable. With four more days of heavy rain forecast, I decided to take the bus-ferry-bus combo to Puerto Urrutia and try to walk northbound from there with the optimistic hope that by the time I reached El Arco the river would be passable or, at least, the wait would be less. However, 10km north of the Rio Puelo crossing (service starts at 9am) my way was blocked by a high and fast river. I then retraced my steps and completed the rest of the section southbound - which was straightforward. The trail on the west side of Lago de la Roca until the frontera is a bit overgrown but still easy to see and nothing particularly slowed me down. On the Argentinian side the trail is well maintained. It is not permitted to camp on the 12km stretch between the border posts. I arrived too late to cross that day, but the Chileans stamped my passport with the next day’s date so I didn’t have to wait for the post to open at 9am. The Argentinian border guards informed me that because of the rain, the Rio Azul was too high to ford at the point on the regular hiking route just before Lago Puelo so I took the alternative route (Oh-Tl-V@22-04-#001) a few kms north and crossed over the La Pasarela bridge.

* '''2020-Jan-22 to 2020-Jan-26 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / parque de la vallee de Cochamo - La Pasarella / Arnaud '''

As we arrived from Puerto Montt we were with the bus and stopped directly at the entrance of the private parque de la vallee de Cochamo.
As it is private, there are some rules to get in, or they block you at the control point.
The entrance is free but you need to have a reservation in one of the official camp sites there. To get the reservation, you can do it on internet (but you need to wait for the confirmation and it can be several days long), or do it directly there (red house), they give you the reservation voucher if there are places available (number seem to be limited). Then you pay the night when you reach the camp sites (6000 clp/pers).
Or the other solution is to say that you sleep in the refugio del Arco. It is 23km further after the control. Then it is free and no reservation is needed, but this is possible only before 10am (after they block you). After 10am the only way to pass is to sleep in the camp sites. They block you if you do not have a
reservation voucher for one camp site.
This spot (la Junta) is famous among the chilenos so the access to the camp sites is really overrunned. The path is easy to walk.
Once you go further than the campsites, you're alone, so it is better.
The path is clearly marked. There are bridges for most of the rivers you cross. But it is very muddy.
At the lago Vidal you can resupply a bit with those living there (you can also sleep in their camp sites).
In El Manso you can find a minimarket with lots of things.
Then, we decided to follow the road instead of the track because we were in a hurry with a deadline in El Bolson, until we reached la cruce de la rocas. There are buses or hitchiking is easy.
Crossing borders was easy. There are 12km between the chilean stamp and the Argentin one that we did in 3.5 hours.
At the very end we have not not crossed El Rio Azul, we walked 7 more km to the north to reach La Pasarella.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*In Cochamo go down towards the lake. There is a church on the left & before you reach it there is a hospedaje on the right, good & cheap.

Really nice Cafe (Materia Cochamo) with a good selection of coffee, cake (Kuchen) & sandwiches ca 50 meters before turning right to the cheap campsite.

*There is a good place to stay NOBO 500 metres before the junction where the road turns towards Laguna Las Rocas. Farmhouse on RHS of road has rooms & meals. Cheap, friendly & good

*In Segundo Corral there are two campsites. The first one is just before the school, it just says Kuchen but you can camp there. Cheap, nice family & they do meals. There is a campsite after the school but the owner was drunk & looking for an argument.
Lots of campsites at Lago Totoral (on the road, not on RR)
It's possible to camp near the Argentinian border control.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2023 / Martin & Helena
We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

*Zapatoria Puerto Varas.He is located in the back corner of a market like building across the street from the Santa Isabella on San Bernardo street. San Bernardo & Del Salvador. I payed extra (10mil total) to have them finished and ready to go that day

=Transport to and from Route=

* February 2023 / Gerald
Bus lago puelo - El bolson:
According to the timetable the bus is leaving from the lake every full hour from 7am till midnight

* January 2023 Frank
To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas you can walk on the road or get the bus to Segundo Corral then from Lago Inferior about 1.5KM from Segundo Corral there is a ferry to Paso Bolson (Chilean border control).The government subsidised ferry runs Monday-Friday only from 8-12 & 2PM-6PM & is only 2000 pesos. You need to radio the ferryman to arrange pickup, easily done in Segundo Corral.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
We decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard (+56958694897),we were charged 5000 p.p.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023 / Martin & Helena
From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake.

*Northbound and southbound hiking is feasible. However, due to the controlled private southbound access through the La Junta área, hiking in that direction is only possible with a camping reservation, or by arriving at the checkpoint before 10am. A northbound traverse may therefore be preferred. For hikers generally heading south, it is possible to take the single ticket, half-day bus-ferry-bus combination south from Cochamó to Puerto Urrutia, hike the 120km north to Cochamó, then return to Puerto Urrutia and resume the section southwards from there.

*Crossing the border is typically straightforward, however it is not permitted to camp on the 12km between the border posts. So if you arrive too late to cross, it is necessary to camp at the border post and cross the next day. In this situation, Chilean officials will stamp your passport with the next day’s date so you don’t need to wait for the office to open that morning.

*Southbound access to the popular La Junta area is controlled at a private checkpoint and only granted to those with a prior camping reservation, or those arriving before 10am and therefore early enough to make it on to the free and unmanaged El Arco campsite 23km away. Reservations for La Junta can be made online at cochamo.com, but there may not be availability and the process may take several days, so hiking this section southwards may not be possible.Therefore, an option for hikers generally heading south is to take the bus-ferry-bus combination from Cochamó across Lago Tagua Tagua and on to Puerto Urrutia, hike 120km north back to Cochamó, then take the bus-ferry-bus south again and hike the remainder of the section southwards from Puerto Urrutia.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT22 - Cochamó]]

=Images=

[[Archivo: | ]]

{| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
|+'''GPT22: Cochamó'''
| colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT22: Cochamó
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
| colspan="2" | D: Lagos Chilenos
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''160.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''51 h'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''136.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''35 h'''
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
| colspan="2" | Chile & Argentina: Los Lagos (X) & Chubut
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|137.9 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|85.9%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 20.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|14.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
| colspan="2" | Cochamó
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|10.8 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.7%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.3%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
| colspan="2" | Lago Puelo (Puerto)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|9.7 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.0%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.0%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
| colspan="2" | Published & Verified
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|2.2 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|1.4%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.4%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
| colspan="2" | Dec - Apr (Maybe: Sep, Oct, Nov, May)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
| colspan="2" | Very Useful
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.8 km)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.1%)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
| colspan="2" | GPT21, GPT23
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.9 km)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.4%)
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
| colspan="2" | 268 km (9 Options & Variants)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
| rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''111.1 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''81.4%'''
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 5 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 62.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 45.7%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 32.4 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 23.7%
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|Both ↓↑
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 16.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|11.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
| colspan="7" | Hiking: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
| colspan="7" | Packrafting: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
| colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Sea Coast, Farmland, Settlers, River Packrafting, Lake Packrafting, Fjord Packrafting, Partly Overrun
|}

[[File:profile GPT22.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

[[File:profile GPT22-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

<gallery>
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520254.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520443.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282465.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282466.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447503.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_101648648.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_104321335.jpg|thumb|
File:Bahia ralun.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447491.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447496.jpg|thumb|
</gallery>

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT20 (Volcan Antillanca)

2025-12-15T00:50:03Z

Ant.bocquier:

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2025-12-05T04:15:54Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*2025 / Antoine
Futrono: several supermarkets, most open on Sundays. But they didn't have screw-type gas canisters. I was lucky to find one at Ferretería O'Higgins Futrono +56 9 6122 5722 (opened just for me, nice guy)
Anticura accomodation:Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]).
Camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
Restaurant is nice. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP

* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354781.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
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[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354773.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2025-12-05T03:24:15Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP

* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354781.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354783.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354857.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
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[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354765.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354768.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
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[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354773.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2025-12-05T03:09:41Z

Ant.bocquier:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant if the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere.

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

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