Wikiexplora - Contribuciones del usuario [es]

GPT40 (Glaciar Viedma)

2026-03-30T21:34:13Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-03-30T21:33:32Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2026-03-30T21:32:39Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2026-03-30T21:31:55Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2026-03-30T21:31:36Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT35 (Parque Patagonia)

2026-03-30T21:30:11Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT 35 | 2/5-2/6 | 2 Days | RR | SOBO | Graham and Gabe '''

Humbled.
Just got humbled by the wind. First day we were pushing up to pass, and the wind became quite strong, despite weather saying it would be calmer. Opted to try and camp in some rock cover for the night rather than risk getting in a tough spot on plateau. Wind ended up becoming too strong, only found a spot for Gabe’s 1 person tent, and we built a rock wall to protect from exposed side. ( -46.67712 , -71.85435) Cold wind, ripped through the tent all night, as we cramped together lol. Hoped for improved conditions in the morning.
Lots of Guanacos in the morning, very cool. But when we reached pass, the wind made it very hard to stay standing and walk forward. Very tired from the horrible sleep, we opted to return to Chile Chico and try and organize a ride to Jeinemeni. Once in town, realized it wasn’t really in the cards for us. Opted to hit the ferry, bus, bus combo to Cochrane and continue from there.
Perhaps could have pushed on in wind, perhaps could have walked 40km on the road, but that’s all in the ether now. It was still beautiful to see the pampa and Guanacos.

* ''' 2026-02-20 until 2026-02-26 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Sendero Rio Chacabuco / Sander and Isa '''

Well marked, easy and really diverse section with a lot of wildlife, we've seen many guanacos, a skunk and a huemul and definitely puma presence (lots of poop and paws, especially on the Sendero Rio Chacabuco). This Sendero Rio Chacabuco is reopened with 3 small, fancy cabins/refugios along the way for shelter with dry toilets. Some of the trail didn't show on our apps, probably not yet on OSM. Sander put a picture of a physical map on FB, the trail is like a walk in the park. The map indicates camping is only allowed next to Pampa Guanaco and Puma refugios. In all refugios it says it's not allowed to sleep inside, but rangers later told us that in case of bad weather you can.
During the entire hike we only met one other couple and some more people on the payed camping sites. All fords were very doable, never higher than mid thigh (I'm 165 cm). Lastly, we didn’t see any flamingos on the plateau and also on the wiki it is often reported that they fly away. These big birds use huge amounts of energy to fly so it’s generally advised to stay 50 to 100 meters away.

Day 1. Payed 10k CLP for a taxi until the paved road ends, seemed a bit expensive. Planned our night on the plateau with low winds (according to Windy app) and after strong winds on the plateau we enjoyed a quiet, windless night at previously suggested camp spot (S 46.71314°, W 071.88570°).

Day 2. Walked until the road next to Rio Jeinemeni using a combination of GPT, OSM and game trails, which seemed more straightforward. Had to wait a while, but right before the road closed (only open between 9:00 and 18:00) got a ride until the ranger and Camp El Silencio. Payed park entrance (11.4k CLP p.p.) through their Starlink, camping is free.

Day 3. Until official camp Valle Hermosa. Nice place with rain sheltered tables. Saw the huemul here at dawn walking across the river!

Day 4. Crossed many fords in the morning, made for slow walking and ice cold feet, but also an experience. Walked until unofficial but nicely sheltered camp site (S 46.94083°, W 072.15601°).

Day 5. To Casa Piedra (10k CLP p.p.) with hot shower, wifi and tables with rooftop for outside cooking with a view. Met some guys who just did the Sendero Rio Chacabuco who gave us their physical map.

Day 6. To Puma refugio, really beautiful peaceful hike through grassland along the river Chacabuco.

Day 7. Last day with a detour to Laguna Cisnes following OSM, but when we arrived at the lake there were marks that this path actually is closed. We got this information confirmed at the visitors center at the Valle Chacabuco Administration Area. Here we also enjoyed the museum (although mostly the more specific part about the history of the park) and hitchhiked to Cochrane (super nice, comfortable Hostal Casa Raíces, 40k CLP for 2 people per night, +56988840002).

* ''' GPT35/2026-02-20 to 2026-02-25/5,5 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''

Nice section in NP Patagonia with nice weather window.

The most difficult part for us was many river fords spring cold morning (66,9-72,4 km), fording itself was easy up to knee but temperate was big problem it was soooo cold. And we forded it maybe 20 times. After this part we had to cross some fallen trees not many but some and easy, as well on sendero siete lagunas there are some.

We paid entry fee to NP at area de acampar El Silencio, we were asked to do it online they offer WiFi. The ranger just asked about our plan, but didn’t inform about anything. 11400 pesos per person for the whole time. While exiting before cochrane we had to check out from parque.

Camps:

1. S 46.562874° W 71.823775° spot after Chile Chico good views but no water

2. S 46.730813° W 71.895828° not much sheltered with water

3. S 46.837865° W 72.118438° camp on the other side of the lago verde, beautiful views with water, nicest spot if the whole section

4. S 46.952670° W 72.151145° sheltered with water

5. S 47.133393° W 72.301508° sheltered with water next to the lake

Very good resupply before and after section, no options in between.

Attractiveness 4/5
Difficulty 4/5

* '''2026-01-23 to 2026-01-26/ 3 1/4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Daniel.s '''

All has been said, no news from my end. Refugios 81.8 and 94.7 don't exist anymore! There are several established campsites between Valle hermoso refugio and casa piedra. Conaf has all the info when you enter the park in Jeinimeini sector, including a Google earth "walk through the park" with exact route and campsite locations to casa de piedra.

* '''2026-01-17 to 2026-01-26/ 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Edwin '''

Cochrane to Casa de Piedra via the lagunas altas and the full siete lagunas trail
Not many good campsites available on the siete lagunas trail. Camped on the start of the siete lagunas trail just after it branches of the lagunas altas trail and at Laguna Guagua. The latter is very nice, with a pebble beach and lots of birds.
Decided to camp at Casa de Piedra campsite before hitchhiking out but did not have a good experience there, no hot shower, not allowed to use the WiFi, many horse flies and at night mosquitos. Guess I was unlucky with the guardaparque (couldnt be bothered)

* '''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-18/ 6 days + 1 zero / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 3 / Chris & Lotte'''

Wonderful section, challenging weather, routefinding at times difficult but only consequence is loss of time.
At 46.889670S 072.164669W the RR is swept away and OSM detour should be followed.
Refugios 81.8 and 94.7 do not exist anymore and arent well protected. If possible use the inofficial one at 46.940842S 072.156137W.
Too stormy conditions for tabanos or mosquitos.

Day1: Tried to hitchhike to X 8.1, it was tricky. Some taxi stopped at the notario to drop people off. We asked how much it was and he said 5k to the end of the pavement. The pavement ends before the X though, so we had to pay extra. 7-8k seems reasonable price, we gave 10k, because he seemed worried of his shiny cab.

Ascent is easy to follow and a quite nice way to gain altitude. Saw two people at Don Claudios puesto. They waved friendly back, we just passed. Many animaltrails make the CC quite passable, our speed did not decrease too much. The wind picked up and climbing the final ridge was challenging in strong winds. NOBO might be nicer here.
Plateau was super nice, loads of wild guanacos, we probably saw flamingos but they were very fast to escape so we werent 100% sure.
Camping is a challenge.The exposed terrain offers zero protection against the strong winds.
Near Water 23.9 I found a medium good spot at 46.664157S 071.843819W.

We camped near Water 30.6 at 46.713142S 071.885664W which was somewhat sheltered (we pitched the tent as low as possible on the grass).
Since camping was an issue, we were battling a bit over the plateau. Going NOBO might be nicer... camp close to the pass, get up early, enjoy a lot if the plateau, go the MR down in the afternoon and hitchhike to chile chico at the "paved" road.

Day2: easy navigating down, long stretches along the fence (had to cross due to swamp anyhow, might be nice to cross higher). At the MR we had a nice break and as soon as we had our boots on, we instantly got a ride to the laguna (probably usually harder to get one).
Paid using the starlink at the ranger. He told us that weather-ing out at refugio 81.8 would be the best option (strongly disagree!). The fords would ne higher in the afternoon.

Camped at refugio 61.7.

Both the refugios 61.7 and 69.0 are very well sheltered, offer plenty of space and even sheltered common areas. Very good to have a zero due to bad weather.

Day3: as the weather was challenging and the river higher than usual, we tried ti bypass the fords. We went shortly before the fords start/end marking up on the river bank into the woods. Very challenging and slow bush-pushing CC ensued quickly.
The triangle in elevation in which Option H starts (which we wanted to catch) is an impassable swamp.
We pusjed ourselves through the woods at the flank between mountain and swamp, when finally after exhausting 2h we were able to break through towards Option H, just to realize it was all flooded. By that point our boots were already wet, we realized this whole endeavour was a waste of time and energy and we started the inevitable fords from there.
Crossed the bizillion fords during snowfall and light minus degrees. That was quite challenging but comparably quick. highest was approx hip high (181cm tall).
The trail at the pass is hard to follow due to hundreds of fallen trees. Mostly mentally hard to stay on track. There is one official camp space and one unofficial along the trail after the pass (indicated in OSM).
At 46.889670S 072.164669W the RR is swept away. Two detours exist. One indicated in OSM (adds approx 30m altitude and crosses shortly after back to RR in the woods and should be prefered) and one scrambling across the rock. That was sketchy... the beginning (SOBO) is easier than the end. Turning around might be tricky with a heavy pack. We had to slide a meter and jump the last two to the rubble of the river bed. Getting up there could be possible with the tree, but seems overly risky considering the alternative option. Our conditions were very windy, wet and cold, the mud on the rock was slimy.
Arrived exhausted at refugio 81.8 just to realize its just ruins and the tent spot is not well sheltered.
Camped there anyways, the night was rainy but not too windy.
A much better spot is the inofficial one at 46.940842S 072.156137W.

Day4: easy walking to valle chacabuco. Refugio 94.7 is just wkthout a roof. Only space for a very small footprint tent inside, otherwise not flat nor protected. Due to ankle issues decided to not further follow the RR, so hitched a ride from chacabuco campsite to the museum, walked towards camp west wind surprisingly pleasant 2km, despite tourists).

Day5: zero due to ankle issues.

Day6: took option 3 / lagunas altas trail. Beautiful walking. Wonderfully maintained trail. Also the siete lagunas trail looks yummy! A bit more touristic though. Saw 6 other hikers. Camped at indicated official spot at camp 35-03 15.3 together with 11 other hikers who came from cochrane. The laguna is surprisingly warm so we took a short swim.

Day7: decended to cochrane, easy walking. First gate open, second gate easily jumped on the left. Werent able to hitch a ride, so walked to town. Stayed at hostal benito (25k pP, a bit noisy, lovely owner). Supermarked at the square offers even gas. Camping can be as cheap as 7k pP.
Side note: bus cochrane to chile chico is preferably to locals. We were not able to reserve seats. We should drop by and see if a free spot is available, and if, we'd have to pay the double price. Didnt know, this existed in Chile.
Edit: the connection is subsidized by the chilenian gov, we stopped at the police station, where the passenger list was handed over to recieve the subsidies. This is why foreigners pay a different price and cant reserve. The drive was very scenic!

* '''2025/26 Dec 24 to Jan 9 / 13.5 hiking days, 2.5 zero days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 3, Opt 3C, Opt 3A, Opt 3E, Var L / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really amazing section. This was our third time going through the park (twice last season). We opted for NOBO this season, which we were very happy with. Especially after Casa Piedra, the views were nicer going that way. We also discovered that if starting in Cochrane, it is possible to arrange for a resupply drop to Casa Piedra to reduce weight. More information in the Resupply Along the Way section. The park seems to be increasing in popularity, or maybe our timing is different this year, but we saw a lot more people than last year. For the plateau, if you can wait for a low-to-no wind day to cross, it's a much better experience. If you have a windless night, we recommend camping on the plateau. There’s a special kind of silence there on calm nights.

CHALLENGES: Tábanos. While we didn't see many in the Tamango and Chacabuco sectors, in the Jenimeni sector they were really bad. More specific to us, grass allergies. They were the worst on the Jenimeni sector.

WATER: Generally very easy to come by. The exception was the Siete Lagunas trail.

CAMPS:

NIGHT 1: -47.18812, -72.52718 (official campground, nice view of lake, raised cooking box with wind protection, picnic tables, we could only find one space that was level and not on wet ground, no wind protection)

NIGHTS 2&3: -47.18468, -72.52438 (official campground, a couple of benches in poor condition, no wind protection, water access is a ways away, there was more flattish space here than in the other space, and the taller grass helped compensate for the lumpiness)

NIGHT 4: -47.14151, -72.45515 (some wind protection, clean stream nearby, view just up the hill, not visible from the trail)

NIGHT 5: -47.15964, -72.41494 (nice view on the lake, okay wind protection from the north and west, easy water access, easily visible from the road above)

NIGHT 6: -47.13355, -72.31556 (Camp, X {35} 119.1 space for one tent, next to a collapsed stop-over puesto, nice view of the lake, some wind protection but not a lot, easy water access, not that level)

NIGHT 7: -47.07533, -72.25804 (on grass looking over the lake, some wind protection, water is down at the lake)

NIGHT 8: Casa Piedra (10.000 CLP pp, possibility of a hot shower, indoor space for cooking and eating, electricity for charging, mosquitos outside were pretty bad)

NIGHT 9: -46.98407, -72.15984 (decent wind protection, flat enough, a nice view nearby, no good water source close, right on the trail)

NIGHT 10: -46.87214, -72.17639 (some wind protection, flat space for two to three tents, stream about 10 m away, right on the trail)

NIGHTS 11&12: Camp Raleigh (spaces in various places, a few picnic tables and a shelter, outhouse, next to a beautiful lake, popular spot)

NIGHT 13: -46.79026, -71.91166 (Camp (42.9+0.2) near the bridge, good wind protection from the west, flat spaces for a few tents, view of the road, the river is about 200 m away)

NIGHT 14: -46.70956, -71.88111 (flat, grassy space, some protection from western winds, water close by)

NIGHT 15: -46.66455, -71.84387 (flat, some wind protection from the west, water is about 170 m away)

Night 16: -46.606711, -71.809753 (on a bit of an angle, some wind protection from winds coming from the west, water is from a stream about 150 m away)

Day 01: Dec 24th

We organized a resupply delivery to Casa Piedra with Jorge. We met the driver at 09:00 at the tourist center in the plaza to hand the box off. We took Var R to get into the park. We bought tickets online before entering. At El Húngaro we went north on Opt 3 (Sendero 6: Las Lenguas) to Laguna El Cangrejo. The trail up was in good shape and a lot of it was in the forest. This was the first time we had taken this trail and we were really happy with it. We camped at the official camping spot at km 15.3. No one else came that night. There was a family of geese with six or seven goslings hanging around the site which we really enjoyed.

Day 02: Dec 25th

We did an out-and-back day hike along Opt 3C (Sendero 7: Los Guanacos). We had walked it last year and remembered that there is a really nice pebble beach on Laguna Elefantita (-47.18524, -72.49595). It was a nice, leisurely way to spend Christmas Day. When we returned there was another couple camped at the camping spot at km 15.3. We knew from the day prior that there was really only one tent space that was on flat, dry ground, so we went to the site at km 14.8.

Day 03: Dec 26th

Zero day to wait over rain.

Day 04: Dec 27th

We continued on Opt 3 (Sendero 9: Los Cóndores). At around km 13.5 there was a reroute that is not in the GPT track files yet, but is on OSM. It is also heavily marked with flag tape, so hard to miss. This goes around a huge blow-down from last season. It rejoins the GPT track at around km 13.2. Between km 11.5 and 10.5 there are a few areas on a steep slope where the path is on an angle and there is scree on the path. They aren't long sections, but we wouldn’t personally want to be walking it during high winds. After Pass 10.9 we continued on Opt 3A (Lagunas Altas). It was a sunny but rather windy afternoon. At the lake at (-47.13894, -72.47796) we saw a group of guanacos, including one baby guanaco, which was very cute. We took Opt 3E and found a spot to camp about 600 m in, going across the stream and up the hill. It was a decent spot, hidden from the trail and seemed to have good wind protection.

Day 05: Dec 28th

Continued on Opt 3E. Nice views on the valley. The trail is in good shape and easy to follow. The trail is mostly through exposed areas. From km 5.1 until km 1.9 we did not find any water. At km 1.9 (-47.15420, -72.43156) there was a good, clear stream. We camped at km 0 of Opt 3E down at the lake shore.

Day 06: Dec 29th

Cloudy and windy throughout the day, a little rain but not much. Landscape was beautiful though. We saw two huemules as we were walking the two track road along Laguna Adelita. Good water points at km 130.5 (-47.16069, -72.40775), km 125.2 (-47.14270, -72.36498), and okay lake access to Laguna Vizcacha at km 122.8 (-47.14118, -72.34587), but that was it for water until Laguna Gua Gua. Pay special attention to the trail around km (-47.135394, -72.328629). It goes uphill, but a large tree fell across the path. It's not immediately obvious, but if you go up a few meters you see where it continues. There is another path that continues straight ahead, but it leads to a scramble and some unnecessary elevation gain. We camped at Camp, X 119.1. It is somewhat wind protected from the lake, but it was a very gusty night.

Day 07: Dec 30th

Sunny but very windy morning. Shortly before leaving, three other hikers passed us going SOBO. Camp 114.6 did not seem to have any flat space for a tent. The stream near it was also dry. There was running water at km 113.5 (-47.10902, -72.28838). It wasn't a lot, but it was clear and clean. Water (112.3) had a few stagnant pools, but nothing running. At (-47.09787, -72.28558) there was some water running, but it was very shallow. Not water again until the lake. Just before the pass a group of three hikers passed us going SOBO. On the way down watch the GPS, there are a lot of animal trails. We wanted to camp on the beach, but the water level was too high. We camped instead a little ways before the lake in a grassy area a few meters off the trail.

Day 08: Dec 31st

We left very early. We remembered that there was a part toward the end of the lake that was difficult for us last season, largely due to it being very windy, so we wanted to arrive early before the wind picked up. It was a sunny day and the lake and mountains were beautiful in the early morning light. We made it past the steep, slippery part much more easily this time. We arrived in Casa Piedra around 11:00. We got our package, which has already arrived. The person running administration offered to heat water for a shower for us, which we happily accepted. We also took the opportunity to charge everything. Several solo hikers and couples came down from Valle Hermoso. Shortly after the bus left a tour group of 11 arrived, and then a group of ten Chileans who had hiked from Chile Chico. We spent some time with the Chileans which was fun. One of them said they had done the route before and were really surprised at how many more people they saw this time. Despite it being New Years Eve and there being 25 people there, it was a quiet night.

Day 09: Jan 1st

We got a bit of a late start. Full sun day with very little wind. We opted for Var L, on the west side of the river. It has more ascent initially, but there are a couple of long, flat sections. We also suspected, and think we are probably correct, that the views were a little better on that side. Another consideration was that we both have vertigo and did not want to have to take the suspension bridge. We went down to see it and were happy with our choice. A tour group of about 18 headed SOBO passed us on the way out. Ford {35-L} 0.8 was easy, mid-calf. We camped near an OSM marked campsite around RR km 88. There were a few spots there that had been used recently as evidenced by flattened grass. Ours was under a couple of trees which provided decent wind protection. There was a very nice view on the mountains a little ways up the trail. We filled up on water at the estero about 300 m before the campsite. There were two streams closer by, but they were fairly shallow.

Day 10: Jan 2nd

Camp at km 84 has one spot under some trees and a few other spots around in the grass. Camp at 82.7, which many people along the trail refer to as “the camp at km 16”, is a large field with a makeshift picnic table and spots for several tents, some of which are wind protected, others not. There is a path down to the river for water.
Ford (83.4) was above the knee with a fair amount of current. The camp site right after it has spaces for two tents, but not good for trekking pole supported tents as there were too many big roots in the ground. At Refuge (81.8) we didn't see any flat areas to pitch a tent. Ford (80.1) was fairly easy, below the knee and not too much current. The views up the valley were spectacular. The sun came out in the afternoon and lit the mountains up. With all the wind, some of the waterfalls coming down the mountains had the water blown back uphill and they looked like they were steaming. The camp at km 78.2 didn't seem to exist. The camp at km 76.9 was in the forest; there were spaces for two tents, one next to a collapsed shelter, and another back in the woods a bit. At km 76.4 there is an unmarked ford which ironically was the most challenging one by far. We had to choose our crossing points very carefully as there was a lot of current and it was crotch deep at the deepest point (we're both about 165 cm). The water was also very cloudy which made it difficult to see the bottom. We arrived there around 19:00 on a warm day, so an earlier crossing, especially on a cooler day, might be easier. The camp at km 75 had space for two or three tents. It was in the trees and had some wind protection, but the spaces were gravel and wouldn't hold the tent stakes of our X-Mid 2. We camped at the camp at 74.1. It is in the trees, though the trees are low and sparse, so not great wind protection. There are spots for at least 3 tents. There is a stream about 10 meters away. In total we passed 9 hikers going SOBO.

Day 11: Jan 3rd

The Pass 74.9 is a low saddle, not difficult. On the way down there was a section about 500 m long where there were so many fallen trees it was impossible to keep to the trail. After that there were a few fallen trees here and there until the fords, but all easy to step over or go around. The fords until Valle Hermoso were all easy, knee deep at most with moderate current. The last ford before the ascent to Puertzuelo La Gloria was mid-thigh for us, but not a strong current so no problem. The ascent up was a little challenging. We went up in the afternoon on a hot, sunny, windless day and the hillside was in full sun the whole time. There were also a few areas that were fairly steep and had scree on the trail. The way down the other side was thankfully in shade by the time we got there. Fords on the other side were also below knee with more current than the Valle Hermoso side, but nothing difficult. We arrived late to Camp Raleigh. One other couple was there for the night.

Day 12: Jan 4th

We decided to take a rest day. It was supposed to be another hot and mostly windless day. It was nice to sit on the beach in the shade and look at the mountains and the water. I also spent a lot of time killing tábanos. It never seems to make a difference. A few people passed through in the early afternoon. At 16:00 a school group of about 20 16-18 year olds from California came to camp for the night. Fortunately they weren't loud.

Day 13: Jan 5th

Another hot and largely windless day. We got to El Silencio around 13:00. We met Mor, another GPTer, on the way. We wanted to hitch and get to a spot below the plateau for the night, but there were no cars in the parking lot. We started walking the road and didn't see a single car. We decided to camp near the willow trees across the field from the bridge. It was flat and had wind protection from the south-west, but it had a ton of noseeums and tábanos, it's exposed to the road, and the river is about 200 m away. Definitely not our favorite campsite.

Day 14: Jan 6th

We got an early start to make as much distance as possible before the heat hit. It was full sun and hot all day. At (km 38.5) we found a path that corresponded to the OSM track and started on that. As it got closer to the GPT track we switched over. We followed the fence line up on the east side, but had to climb through the fence at one point. We would recommend being on the west side as there is a marshy spot that is difficult to get through. There is a gate at (-46.749383, -71.898336) which could be used to get to the west side. We found a nice spot to camp near Water (30.6) before going up to the pass. It has good wind protection from winds from the south-west. Another spot (-46.710147, -71.883436) was also wind protected from the same direction. It was a little warmer and seemed a bit better sheltered, but we chose the other one because it was flatter and on grass.

Day 15: Jan 7th

Woke up to a silent, sunny morning. The clouds came in as the day went on. At times there were cold breezes, but otherwise windless throughout the day. There were lots of different small wild flowers out. At the large lake there was a flock of about 50 flamingos. Shortly after we met Dave and Siyuan and had a nice chat with them. We found another small group of flamingos at one of the smaller lakes. We decided to camp on the plateau since it was a calm night. We stayed in the same spot we did last season. Had a windless night.

Day 16: Jan 8th

It was a still morning. Clouds rolled in as the afternoon progressed and winds picked up. The wind gets to be pretty tiring. We saw lots of little wildflowers, white and pink, yellow and orange, all different kinds. Lots of lizards skittered about as we walked. Getting closer to the second pass we saw two large herds of guanacos. As we approached the down, the views out over the valley were really great. We followed the OSM track for the descent rather than the GPT track. We met the settler, Claudio, and his son while they were doing a round to look for their sheep. They said we could camp in the vallecito down below and said there was good water there. We camped in the same spot as last season. There were lots of noseeums out so we were in the tent pretty early.

Day 17: Jan 9th

We got up early because it was supposed to be hot. There were some great views out over the lake. We ended up walking the whole way to town.

* '''2026-1-7 to 2026-1-11/ 5 days/ Hiking/ NOBO/ Sendero Rio Chacabuco + RR/Tomas Martinec'''

I already walked some sections of Tamango before, so I started the Parque Patagonia traverse via Sendero Rio Chacabuco, then connected to RR at Casa Piedra.

Overall, I consider it as a diverse section
Beginning: savana like terrrain inside a wide valley
Middle: mountainous terrain with river crossing and lakes
End: pure pampa and plateu walking

What makes this section special is the sense of wildness. It is possible to see a lot of guanacos, flamingos, and many other birds I couldn't identify. If you are lucky, you might even encounter pumas (I had that luck). Unfortunately, there are also a lot of tabanos (horseflies).

Navigation is generally easy and well marked, except for the final plateau section (15-42 km). There are several river fords in the middle (69-72 km), the deepest reaching mid-thigh (I'm 184 cm tall)

Day 1
Sendero Rio Chacabuco is officially closed. At the entrance (Museum), I had to prove that I had offline maps and a powerbank, then sign a document stating that I continued at my own responsibility.

Later I learned the main reason for the closure is a missing bridge across Rio Aseradero Quemado (washed away by the river). However, the main donor is very interested in reopening the trail, and CONAF workers are currently working on reopening it in the coming months.

I spent about 2 hours in the museum (highly recommended), then started hiking around midday.

Despite the official closure, the trail was easy to follow. The missing bridge wasn't problem - the river was low and easy to ford. Still, there are very few hikers using this trail. After about 10 km, I met CONAF worker who took photo of me, saying very unusual seeing tourist here.

Around km 20, I encountered a group of guanacos. A few kilometres later, I unexpectedly passed three pumas sitting next to the trail in the bushes. Two of them run away immediately (probably bigger cubs, I only saw them for a split second). The third one (probably the mama) stayed sitted and looked directly to me. I followed basic safety rules: not showing my back, keeping the eye contact, and slowly walked out of the bushes. The whole encounter lasted only a few seconds and everything was thankfully fine.

I camped about 3 kms from where I saw them
(I didnt sleep well that night). There are several nice shelters along this trail. I camped next to the Refugio Pampa Guanaco.

1st night camp: 47.0548324S, 72.3130370W

Day 2
Unfortunately, the Sendero Rio Chacabuco does not connect directly to Casa Piedra. I had to walk 8km on the road to reach Casa Piedra. From there, I continued along RR.

2nd night camp spot: 46.9408026S, 72.1560413W (protected to the wind, a lot of space)

Day 3
The pass is in the forrest. On the descent, I lost the trail briefly and had to do some bush bashing. Later came the ford section (km 69-72). The deepest crossing reached mid-tigh height (I'm 184 cm tall). After that, there is another pass above Lago Verde, a beautiful lake.

3rd night camp: Refuge {35} [61.7/856] (Camp Raleigh - very nice place)

Day 4
An easy walk brought me to lago Jenimeni and camp El Silencio (there is WiFi), with quite a lot tourists around. I hitched 8 km and started the final section, which is a pure pampa. The beginning is easy to follow. Later, I simply kept a fence on my left side as a navigation aid.

I stopped before reaching the plateau and camped here X. It was still quite windy. A spot about 30 m lower might serve better. Water was not problem.

4th day camp spot: Camp {35} [32.6/1300]

Day 5
No wind in the morning, but the navigation on the plateu was difficult. It is better to keep your general direction and follow it, rather than trying to stay exactly on the track. Progres was slow - 2.5 km/h. Wind picked up again on the plateu. There were many guanacos, and even flamingos in the central part of the plateau.

From Puesto {35} [15.8/1075], navigation becomes easy again. I passed the puesto and greeted Don Claudio and three young men.
Luckily, later the three guys gave me a lift for the last 10 km. It turned out they are cousins from the family that owns the land around the puesto. Don Claudio might be the caretaker.

* ''' 2025-Dec-22 to 2025-Dec-31 / 10(9) Days / Hiking / SOBO RR / Massa and Jacicek '''

Generally the track through the park is maintained and easy to navigate. Water is plentiful.

Day 0
Went by bus from Bahia Murta to Chile Chico, managed to explain to the driver that we want to drop off at crossroads to El Ciprés, the ride took approx 6 hours and we arrived around 7pm. Very short hike just to pass the gates (unlocked) to get to nature, we camped alongside small stream [S 46°33.7889’, W 071°49.6138’], spot for one tent protected by the bushes.

Day 1
Long hike through the NP to the Camp 32.6. We met Claudio mending his fence and one other local on his horse. Beautiful valley and plato, seen a lot of animals. We didn’t encounter any river that needed fording shoes (we followed the OSM track at km 23.9). Camped around 250m downhill from Camp 32.6 (optimistically set up tent when wind was down and had to move it).

Day 2
Hiked downhill, met another local riding his horse with two dogs. For a brief section we followed OH-CC-A at 35-C as the path across meadows seemed nicer, however this than continues along bare hillside, so we went directly back to the RR (there is animal trail there also). Road walking was easy, with nice views but long. Camped at El silencio, met guard on his way home and he went back to log in us even after hours (he was very friendly).

Day 3
Easy walking around the Lago Jeinemeni with nice bridge at camp Raleigh. Both Lagos are beautiful. All fords were easy. Camped at official camp in Valle Hermoso.

Day 4
No walking due to bad weather with better forecast for tomorrow.

Day 5
Nice walk with clear paths, Fords are many but all easy, only obstacles are fallen trees before pass km 74.9 (sobo). Camped at official campsite at km 83.

Day 6
Days walk to Casa Piedra, we took a water from stream running from read mountains, this was highly mineralized and tasted acidic after treatment with micropur (chlorine based) tablets, we discarded this. The bridge over the gorge is beautiful, however, the ongoing path is up and down a lot, the path on the other site seem flatter. Young ranger in casa Piedra, payed 10 000 CLP pp and got a warm shower, no tickets checked and no new ones needed.

Day 7
The SSL trail runs through slightly drier part of the park, 1liter was enough for us between water sources though. The SSL start after casa Piedra was full of bushes, but trail was visible. Camped next to Laguna Guagua [-47.13500, -72.30704] .

Day 8
Nice and recognizable paths, stream at 130.4 had wild mint growing in it :-) , the minor road to Settler at km 136 appears to been restored recently. We camped at OSM free official camp site at CA km 139.

Day 9
Mediterranean feel to the hike to Cochrane, rangers at the station had a lunch break and we signed out without issues.

* '''2026-01-06 to 2026-01-14/ 3+2+4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 and 2 / Dave & Siyuan'''

Summary: We took 9 days of food leaving Chile Chico. The first 3 days were on the plateau. We decided to go to the Cherry Festival in Los Antiguos (just cross the border in Argentina). We hitched a lift to Chile Chico when we got to the road on day 3 afternoon, then went across the border the following day. Two days later, we got a lift back to the park entrance and continued our hike through Parque Patagonia. Finished with a hitch to Valle Chacabuco. We saw a lot of wildlife on this section.

Day 1: 10km
Got the 8am bus from Chile Chico towards Coyhaique, but it was delayed by an hour and they charged us $4k CLP each. A local taxi would probably be cheaper. Exited the bus after 8km at -46.55736, -71.82521. Dirt road continued for 8km and was easy to follow. Water was available at -46.57576, -71.82803 and -46.59019, -71.81717. The cross country section is easy terrain with many animal trails. We camped after about 2km at -46.61882, -71.81595 at a grassy spot next to the stream. Not totally protected from the wind but flat with water nearby. We saw lots of Guanacos!

Day 2: 12km
Easy cross country terrain all day. We had no wind at all on the plateau but I imaging it would be very windy with the right conditions. If you see flamingos in the lagoons, make sure you take photos early because they all flew off as we approached and we never saw them again. We met GPTers Michael and Kasia who told us about their excellent camp where we camped tonight: -46.70956, -71.88111 (flat, nice stream and slightly protected from westerly wind).

Day 3: 11.3km
Easy cross country across the plateau, and down to the road. We followed variant C (following the fence) but still got wet feet in a few boggy sections. We got a lift back to Chile Chico after waiting an hour at about 17:00.

Day 4-5: Cherry Festival in Los Antiguos

Day 6: 9km
Got a lift from Chile Chico to the Park Entrance. Bought our tickets online with the starlink wifi. Easy and flat walk to Raleigh Campsite.

Day 7: 16.6km
Many river crossings. Walked in our shoes through 20 + fords. All easy below our knees. Camped at Camping el Puesto 78.1/888. However there was no Puesto.

Day 8: 21.4km
Crossed the main river and a couple of other small fords, no issues. An easy long walk down the valley, mostly downhills. Camped at Casa Piedra Camping 99.6/380. 10000 per person, hot showers, wifi, and electricity. Windy but there were sheltered spots to set up tents. The stone hut was awesome to be sheltered from the weather.

Day 9:
We started hiking on the road towards Chacabuco, soon we got a lift and the rain started...

'''2026-Jam-2 to 2026-Jan-7 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Mor'''

All in all a beautiful section with the definite highlight being the plateau for me. Did the whole RR but would recommend Option 3 and finish either in Valle Chacabuco in the very nice visitor center or cross from there to Cochrane. The walk along lago Cochrane is not interesting or too nice while lagunas altas trail is impressive.

I did the hike during a heatwave which made the exposed sections between Lago guagua and up to Valle hermoso tiring and with a constant buzz of the Tabanos.

Attractiveness: 5/5 (for the plateau)
Difficulty: 3.5/5 (extra 0.5 for 35 degrees and no shade)

Day 1: Cochrane -> camp35(119.1, 716)
~ 10.5 hours day
Long day with not so interesting of views besides lake Cochrane in the beginning and the valleys and lagunas towards the end. Water is almost solely at the lagunas once leaving the lake.
Gorgeous camp location, fairly protected from the wind.

Day 2: camp35(119.1,716)->refuge35(94.7,618)
~9.5 hours day
Walk is not too interesting and mostly follows the lake's sides. Makes the walk in poorly maintained trails confusing at times with fallen trees or overgrown thorny vegetation. No water between Laguna guagua and Laguna Gutierrez. No shade after pass35(111.6,1126).
Water at refuge35(94.7,618).
Chatted with the Ranger at Casa del piedra which was mostly caring for the wildfire hazard due to the heatwave.

Day 3: refuge 35(94.7,618) -> refuge 35(69.0,867)
~ 8 hour day
A few new fords which are not marked at -46,94964, -72,15276 and -46,88983, -72,16463.
Plenty of water along the path.
Plenty of fallen tree in section leading to Valle hermoso making finding the trail hard at times.
Fords were at most mid thigh for me(1.80). Watch out for following the trail without checking GPS when fording as it ends in a swampy area.
Valle hermoso truly deserves the name. Camp at refuge is well organised, had a few other hikers with me and along the way as it is a more popular hike.

Day 4: refuge35(69.0,867) -> camp35(34.8,1170)
~ 12 hours day
A long day with easy walking for the most part but 12km along the road after the park as no hitch was to be found. An immediate and welcomed change of scenery from alpine to pampa as you exit the park. Plenty of water all along the day.
From X35(41.4,768) to X35(38.2,916) the walk is on a double tracked road but after roads it turns CC. Have the fence on your east (right I'd you're climbing) and there'll be a horse trail most of the time.

Day 5: camp35(34.8,1170) -> -46,61892, -71,81546
~ 8 hours day
Hands down the highlight of the hike. DO NOT SKIP. herds of guancos and flamingos and the occasional heir make it all worth it with the beautiful views. An easy walking once above 1400m as the vegetation disappears.
Water is no issue at all as entry of lagunas and streams.
Met Siyuan and Dave as I was going down and camped with them for the night.

Day 6: -46,61892, -71,81546 -> Chile Chico
~ 4 hours day
Strolled down to the main road and after half the way to Chile Chico managed to get a. Ride into town. Pretty views of the lake as descending. Did not meet any of the puetsos or settlements occupied as I was passing.

'''2025-Dec-2 to 2025-Dec-7 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Emily & Kole'''

Beautiful section - diversity of landscapes, lots of wildlife and wildflowers, and despite the length not overly difficult. Saw very few people. No issues with water, plentiful. Attractiveness 5/5, difficulty 3/5.

Day 1 -
* Roadwalked for 3km from Chile Chico before getting a hitch to X {35} [8.1/505].
* Gate at Settler {35} [8.9/539], unlocked.
* Spoke with settler briefly at Puesto {35}[15.8/1075] - lovely guy.
* Trail is CC ascent after puesto, but easy walking. Winds at top on plateau very strong.
* Ford at Water {35}[23.9/1586] was mid-low thigh for Em (165cm), but Kole crossed 100m downstream on a snow ridge.
* Camped across the stream to the west of Camp {35} [32.6/1300] - small hills offer some wind protection but still very exposed.

Day 2 -
* Followed the OSM route to the road to avoid multiple river crossings.
* Hitched the final 3km of the roadwalk, but very few cars passing.
* Paid online 11.400 CLP pp for park entry - office was open but no ranger present
* Camped at Raleigh, Refugio {35} [61.7/856]. Several hikers were there when we arrived, but there’s a small sheltered space for 2 tents around 50m to the left after bridge along the OSM trail.

Day 3 -
* Fords after Valle Hermoso were all below knee height.
* Watch for the turnoff back to trail at Ford start/end {35} [72.4/905] - there’s a marker of cairns and sticks.
* Ford {35} [83.4/805] was mid-low thigh height for Em, but not overly strong.
* Camped at -46.94070, -72.15596, just afterward. Below the destroyed refugio, look for a trail leading left. Spots are well sheltered and flat.

Day 4 -
* No ranger at Casa Piedra.
* Water available at [112.3/1108], but difficult to collect. Better flow at Camp {35} [114.6/779].
* We camped here, below trail to the right. Spots aren’t perfectly level but very well sheltered. A more level spot to the left of trail before crossing the stream.

Day 5 -
* Horseflies in the morning drained our souls - not a bad idea to bring repellant or a head net.
* Watch out for turnoff for RR at Laguna Adelita; easy to miss.
* Camped at -47.20055, -72.46699 near the lake shore. Well sheltered and grass very soft.

Day 6 -
* Signed out at ranger station {35} [147.3/165] but rangers didn’t check our tickets.
* No luck hitching into town but it’s an easy walk on paved road.
* Arrived in Cochrane at midday.
* Stayed at “Camping & Laundry Cochrane” next to the plaza. 7.000clp to camp or 10.000clp for a 4 bed shared dorm. Laundry for 5.000clp pp. Hot showers, kitchen, WiFi, close to supermarket for resupply.

'''GPT35 / 2025 Dec 7-11 / NOBO / RR / variant R, Option 3, Option 3A, Option 3E & Option 2 / 5 days (2 half days)/ hiking // Bailey'''

General notes - incredibly beautiful section and quite diverse. Heaps of wildlife. We came across 7 other people walking the other direction. Fairly easy navigation. The high plateau was a highlight

Challenges - none to note

Costs - paid online for a parks pass - 11,400 CLP for foreigners. Walking out of cochrane I didn't pass the rangers hut. No one checked my pass. When I reached the second rangers hut they didn't ask to check, just shook my hand

Campsite Casa dePiedra, night 2 - 10,000 CLP cash

Difficulty - 3/5

Attractiveness - 5/5

Day 1

Started walking after 5 pm out of cochrane up to camp next to Laguna El Cangrejo. Taking variant R and option 3. Pretty steep climb

Camp 1

We camped at camp {35-03} [15.3/995] which was beautiful and protected from the wind by the lake. Mosquitos

Day 2

Today was the longest day. The passes were gorgeous. Took option 3A, good trail down onto option 3E and option 2, linking back onto the main route. No issues. The trail after this was pretty unmaintained but there was a trail. After Lago Gutierrez there were some animal cameras on the trail.

Camp 2

Reached Casa dePiedra camp at 8:30 pm, and paid 10,000 CLP. Hot showers, a place to eat inside away from the mosquitos.

Day 3

Crossed the fords, some were fast moving but nothing above mid thigh (194 cm). No navigation issues

Camp 3

Camp Raleigh [61.7/856]. A very beautiful campsite. There's tables and chairs. A cool looking bridge.

Day 4

Walked past the rangers hut in the morning, there's starlink here. Briefly talked to the ranger, he didn't ask about my parks pass. Walking on the road had some beautiful views. Walking up over the high plateau was incredible. Cross country navigation felt relaxed. Hundreds of guanacos up here. Came across a gaucho herding sheep

Camp 4

Camped at camp [14.1923] just as the minor road begins. This was incredibly windy.

Day 5

Walked down to the main road and got picked up by a local archaeologist

Stayed in chile chico for 20,000 CLP per person at Campamento Ñandú Hostel. Really laid back vibe, just opened today.

Ferry to Puerto Ibáñez, tried booking a ferry for this afternoon but it's not running because of high winds. Below is the website but I couldn't purchase a ticket through it. The office is located here

https://maps.app.goo.gl/mxD1LgMF5s2FPPbH9

Website - https://www.ferrypatagonia.com/horarios-y-tarifas

<big>'''2025-11-8 to 2025-11-13 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 3, Opt 3A, Opt 3E, RR / Ohad '''</big>

Beautiful and diverse section! Very glad its my introduction to the GPT.

Sendero 7 Lagunas (RR) is closed, but hikers with inreach/gps that informed the park administration (north of westwind camp) are allowed to walk it. I did not know this, and went without informing. I suppose its possible to contact them prior to arrival to do it by the book. I saw no rangers or other person on trail.

Fees: 11400$
paid 11400 pessos for entry to the NP in the ranger station near Cochrane, did not sleep at any camps that required payment, no ranger in Casa de Piedra and didnt pay for the second entry to the park.

Camping

Day 1: S 47.149459 W 072.434050, unofficial therefore illegal (alt spot, semi protected from wind, a patch of dirt big enough for one tent reletivaly flat. Hidden from the road.

Day 2: Camp {35} [114.6/779], nice spot near little stream in lenga forest.

Day 3: OSM camp at S 46.983453 W 072.160344 No wind protection, very scenic there is a little stream a bit to the south.

Day 4: Camped at Raleigh, wind sheltered and scenic, the outhouse has mice droppings, probably mice around the camp. Very nice spot.

Day 5: slept on the plateau at S 46.715519
W 0.71877977. Semi wind sheltered spot woth little stream behind a small hill. Still had a very windy night. Would not reccomend sleeping on the plateau, crazy wind. But it was beautiful at sunset and early morning.

Challenges: no challanging fords. some snow left on Opt 3 and the plateau, could be annoying if tackeling slush but it was mostly firm.

Water: no problem at all, at the plateau i would recc to filter all water, lots of dead guanaco and goose droppings with still and slow moving water.

Day 1: started from Cochrane, no hitchhike. Waited for the ranger to wake up and open shop (9 am), only after saw the option to pay online. Continued on my way on Sendero Las Aguilas, a trail heading towards Opt3 not on the gpx files. Nice views over the valley, mainly lenga forest, continued to the pass. Decieded to continue on the lagunas altas route (Opt 3A) and connect to RR tommorrow. The pass and Opt3A offer very panoramic views to the valley next over and surrounding mountains. Up to you if its worth the steep uphill. Some of the northface of the pass is an unstable, exposed scree slope. Would not reccomend in snow.

Day 2: shorter day, transioned yesterday to Sendero 7 Lagunas. The trail is not always clear in open terrain as Perrenial plants are starting to grow over it and annuals are in full growth. When entering the lenga forest the trail is clear but there is debree. Beautiful day with amazing yellow orchids, clear lakes and on very not shy huemuul.

Day 3: over the pass, lots of puma prints and droppings, be alert and maybe get a lucky encounter. Over the pass the terrain opens up and for NOBO hikers offers a (usually) nice stroll down. The last 2km of trail coming down to Laguna Guttiérrez is very unclear, i approached it as CC. Casa Piedra was closed, and the gate to the bridge was closed (just a steel rope attached lazely, no problem). The trail becomes clear again after Casa Piedra.

Day 4: very clear day, fallen trees in the forrested parts, the fords never passed my knees (Im 185cm). I saw someone reccomending sandals for the many fords on the river flowing east (couldnt find the name) I disagree, a lot of walking on dry river bed, they would probably get in the sandel and or hit your toes on them. To each their own. There are clear posts every couple hundred meters so its very easy to pathfind. The pass to Lago Verde was steep.

Day 5: easy flat day, nice views over the lakes, saw the first people in 5 days. As i was walking past the ranger station the ranger called me to "sign out"? Was very friendly but just starteled me. Just wanted to ask if I had any information and that everything is OK. No hitch on the road (at around noon). Walked up to the plateau, CC is less challenging as you go up in elevation. At certain point decided to just ascend the plateau for easier CC. Wanted to shorten the next day to get to Chile Chico earlier and ended up dleeping on the plateau. Would not reccomend. Lots of guanacos on the plateau and very interesting ecosystem, geology and views. definatley worth the extra day if youre NOBO.

Day 6: woke up early and traversed the plateau, lots of snow patches, the temp was low and i was early so it wasnt very bad. If there is snow and you expect slush then it will be slower. Lots of mud from the extra water. The southwest wind was extremely harsh, was very happy to walk north. Shared some maté, bread, salami and ciggs with the settler. Lovely man. Said hes there from oct to april give or take. Dropped into the road and got a hitch into town.

Happy GPT Season!

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-13 to 2025-Mar-19/ 6 days/ Hiking/ NOBO RR - Oh-Mr-V 35-01 (sendero 7 laguna - valle aviles - valle hermoso- lago jeinimeni) / Emilie '''

Day 1: started in Cochrane around 9:30 and registered at the guardaparque where I paid around 11000CPL and the guard checked if I had 2 gas canister and he even weighed them to make sure they were full. He also asked me if I had an inreach as the trail wasn’t busy and I wouldn’t meet a lot of ppl on the way. I started and had a relatively short day, stopping at (S 47.198824° O 72.449461°) to camp for the night.

Day 2: it was a relatively pleasant and easy day. Walked until laguna guagua to camp on the shore (S 47.134842° O 72.307318°)

Day 3: started in the forest again and after the pass the landscape changed almost drastically, the weather was really nice and it was just so pretty! I saw a few guanacos. Camped at casa piedra for 8000CLP

Day 4: woke up to a herd of guanacos running around on the campground. I also idiotically left my bag on one of the sheltered picnic tables woke up to several of my ziplock bags being eaten trough by a mouse…:( Continued on the valle aviles sendero and camped at km 22 (S 46.893873° O 72.160906°). Not the cutest campground but relatively well protected as it started to rain.

Day 5: woke up under the rain and after 1hr of walking the ford crossing started, crossed the river about 8 times, 4 times out of those were knee high and the rest was below that. After the lago verde pass I had one other shoes-off ford crossing aswell. And camped at (S 46.864410° O 72.048501°) kind of hidden in the bush, definitely not ideal, would recommend sleeping at Raleigh (free campsite) or push to el silencio (I think that one is paying).

Day 6: decided to not do the last ascent of the trek and walked on the Camino laguna jeinimeni trying to hitchhike to Chile Chico. I still had to walk about 17kms before someone finally picked me up. You probably have more chances hitchhiking in the afternoon as people are leaving réserva jeinimeni because it’s a dead end road and people with go there for the day, being able to pick you up on their way back to Chile Chico.

All in all this was a beautiful and relatively easy section. The weather was on and off during the last few days, you can feel the autumn cold air rolling in, but with the two easy exit points (casa piedra and campamento el silencio) you can easily only do parts of it or stop if needed.

'''2025-Mar-10 to 2025-Mar-15/ 6 days/ Hiking/ NOBO RR/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

We managed to hike the full RR in 6 days because we hitchhiked about 20k, otherwise that would have been long days.
Weather: after arriving from villao higgins with the bus, we were lucky to see a really good weather windw of 5 /6 days with sun, relatively warm and few wind except the first day. Forecast were quite accurate ( yr), we checked it again twice with the in reach. It was also quite accurate, a bit less than yr.

Camps:
Camp 1: camp 136.9: 200 m before, we found something more sheltered from wind

Camp 2: camp osm: S 47° 08.017', W 072° 18.115': really nice, not sheltered a lot

Camp 3: 100m after the refuge 93.9, there s à spot for a single tent. We slept in front of the refuge: not really flat ( nice spot was already used by sb).

Camp 4: refugio valle hermoso: Nice camp site sheltered with tables..

Camp 5: camp 32.6 not sheltered from the wind but otherwise it s incredible.

Day 1: We started at 11 from cochrane, hitchhiked 2km, and then took the nice yrail along the lake. There was far less elevation gain than what is sometimes written on tracks when there s a lot of ups and downs ( such as this section :139.1 + 7.7).

Day 2: We saw 3 huemules on the MR above the lago cochrane. The forest is devastated by the caterpillar.

Day3: Nice and huge diversity of landscape. At casa de piedra the camping guy checked that we had a GPS, gas... No fees problems.

Day 4: Nice again, as is the whole section.it was a bit long. On this section it is better to have really good sandals to walk the whole 2km in the river bed or to have wet running shoes.
Day 5: we managed to hitchhike from the park ranger to X 41.5. There were very few cars, but it seem doable if you are early enough. On the cc between 41.5 and 32, we found some good animal tracks that allowed us to avoide walking in thorny bushes. Then you follow fences. We had sometimes to cross it by crawling under. There is no need to follow the track too closely, you would have to cross the fences to often.

Day6: amazing crossing of this plateau full of guanacos, flamingo... CC is easy ( bare ground). We had 2 drops of rain, and a bit of sun, not windy. We hitchhiked the last 8km to chile chico ( they were not many cars).

Overall, we did not found any challenging fords. This is one of the best section we found: quite easy despite the length, huge diversity of landscapes. We saw a lot of different animals. We saw no ones on the first part ( sentier de 7 lagunas), a bit more after casa de piedras, no one on the last 40 k.
It is probably recommended to filter water all along the way as there is a lot of cattles and wild animals everywhere, compared to other sections.

'''2025-03-07 to 2025-03-12 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyson'''

Hit some incredible weather. A really beautiful and diverse section. No trouble with water or crossings.

Day 1: [RR] Got a lift out of town to X {35} [8.1/505], and started hiking ~10am. Beautiful views as you ascend the plateau looking back at Lago General Carrera. Tons of guanacos. The ground on the walk up to and in places on top of the plateau has a lot of clay in it. So if it has rained recently, be ready for mud. I stayed near Camp {35} [32.6//1300]. I checked out MiamZelt’s recommended spot, but it lacked the view so I compromised by camping across the stream just west from the Camp. There are some small hills there that provide a bit of protection from west winds.

Day 2: [RR] Continued the valley descent. Hit the road going to the Jinemeini entrance to the park by noon. No hitch so I had to walk the whole thing which was annoying and took a good bit longer than expected. Tried to pay entrance fees but the system was down. Had Raleigh campground to myself that evening. Some nice fishing in Lago Verde there.

Day 3: [RR] Over the pass to Valley Hermosa. Really beautiful. Peaked in at the campsite there, which is nice and well-protected. Crossings in the valley were ankle deep mostly, so easy. There are easy markers for the first ⅔ of the valley, but you need to watch for the turn south. I overshot it and got stuck in a small but thorny bushwhack. Clear trail up and over the pass, crossings on the other side all easy. The trail cuts through a couple of boggy terraces. Camped at OSM Free Unofficial Campsite (-46.98401, -72.16014). Water is easily available at a stream down trail just past the camp spots

Day 4: [RR] Took the RR across the suspension bridge, and down to Casa Piedra. Spoke to the ranger there who said I should just pay at the end in Tamango. On to Sendero 7 Lagunas. Really enjoyed this section. The pass [111.6/1126] kicked my ass more than I expected. But saw two huemules on the other side so worth it. Camped at Laguna Guagua / OSM “Plano sitio para acampar.” Beautiful lake, gorgeous sunset, though the prime camp spot was taken by some other hikers so I ended up in the woods, just NE of there. There are some flat spots tucked away there.

Day 5: [RR] Watch for the RR turnoff at Laguna Adelita. You’re on a dirt road there that continues and becomes Option N. To stick to the RR turn at an easy to miss trail. Camped at OSM ‘Free official camp site” (-47.20052, -72.46710)

Day 6: [RR] Tamango Reserve, another nice section here, but lots of day hikers. The outlet to Rio Cochrane has some nice coves for throwing a line in. Finally was able to pay entrance fees at the Tamango office (11,700). No hitch to Cochrane so had to road walk. Made it town by ~2pm

*'''2025-MAR-02 to 2025-MAR-07 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. L) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A beautiful section through stunning nature, although the presence of a national park comes with an entrance fee and a higher number of people and cars.

We followed the RR almost entirely. The only exceptions were the descent into the Jeinemeni River valley, where we followed the trail marked in OSM rather than the track files from kilometer 32 until reconnecting with the MR at kilometer 38. Second exeprion was Variant L, which seemed like a more logical approach to Casa Piedra. However, if you take this variant, be sure to check out the suspension bridge at [90.9/635] before turning off. Crossing a suspension bridge over a deep gorge is absolutely worth it!

CHALLENGES
The biggest challenge overall was the weather. Strong winds are to be expected, and at higher elevations, we encountered both snow and freezing temperatures.

The river crossings were not deep, but there were many of them. Given the cold and heavy rain we experienced, crossing them was not particularly pleasant.

The trail was often waterlogged and muddy. Don’t expect to keep your feet dry!

FEES
The entrance to Patagonia National Park can be booked and paid online via the CONAF website. Alternatively, rangers at the park entrance [53.0/843] can facilitate payment, as they have internet access via Starlink. The fee is 11,400 CLP per person.

At Casa Piedra, you enter another part of the park where another fee might be required. However, the local ranger didn’t ask for any payment, and since we didn’t use the campsite, we didn’t have to pay anything.

When exiting the park, no additional fees were requested.

BIVOUACING
Our first night, we arrived by ferry after 9 PM and camped just outside the town. We chose a spot among rocks west of town (-46.5397818, -71.7343889). There are several small tent spots among the bushes. It’s a quiet and scenic spot despite its proximity to town.

The second night, we camped on a plateau in a small valley with a water source [23.9/1586]. It’s slightly less windy than higher up, but still quite exposed. If your tents are not highly wind-resistant, we do not recommend following our example.

After entering the national park, camping is only allowed in designated campsites. The available campsites are:

Camp $, Bridge, Lake {35} [53.3/852] – Includes toilets and cold showers, with a few sheltered platforms. We did not have to pay for staying here.

Refuge {35} [61.7+0.2/856] – A simple shelter with several picnic tables and benches. Free of charge.

Refuge {35} [68.1/867] – Slightly off-trail, so we didn’t visit, but it appeared to be maintained.

Other campsites and shelters marked in OSM and track files further along are mostly ruined or unmarked open spaces. The next large managed campsite is Casa Piedra, costing 8,000 CLP per night.

From Casa Piedra onwards, we entered a different section of the national park, where the local ranger gave us no clear instructions on camping, nor did he seem concerned about it.

We camped on the shore of Lago Gutiarrez (-47.07580, -72.24877), and we weren’t the only ones—another group camped further down the shore.

Our final night was spent at the campsite [136.9/162], which was a nice spot.

A few hundred meters further at (-47.19807, -72.45737), there are three surprisingly nice and clean refugias, which could also be used.

WATER
Water is not an issue. The plateau at the start has several small lakes and streams, and for the rest of the section, the trail follows rivers and lakes for the most part.

Even at higher elevations, such as beyond the pass [110.8/1126], small streams were available for water resupply. A good example is at (-47.09787, -72.28568).

RESUPPLY
We resupplied in Puerto Ibáñez at a small minimarket near the lake, so we don’t have information on shopping options in Chile Chico.

In Cochrane, there are several stores. We were recommended Supermercado Rojita, located near the main square at (-47.25330, -72.57560).

Another well-stocked option was Supermercado Emporio Vecino Arno, which is conveniently located as you enter Cochrane at (-47.25089, -72.56108).

For food, we recommend Cumbres Pizzería Artesanal, located above Supermercado Rojita. It’s a small pizzeria, but the lady running it was very friendly, and this was easily the best pizza we had in Chile.

''' 2025 Feb 25 to Mar 7 / 9 hiking days, 1 zero days / NOBO / Hiking / Var R, Var S, RR, Opt 3D, Opt 3C, Opt 3, Opt 3A, Opt 2A, Opt N, Var T / Michael and Kasia '''

Quick notes: This was our second route in Parque Patagonia this season; we really loved this section, we saw a lot of animals, had some great weather and a couple rainy and windy days, and we managed to do a loop from Cochrane to Casa Piedra and back with minimal overlap.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -47.19763, -72.45248 (flat space for two to three tents, excellent water access, nice view, some wind protection, but would be cold if wind were coming from the south)

Night 02: -47.18468, -72.52438 (official campsite, okay view, not much wind protection, water access is about 70 m away)

Night 03: -47.13894, -72.47796 (amazing view, site is fairly flat, water access is about 150 m away, no wind protection)

Night 04: -47.15964, -72.41494 (amazing view, easy water access, good wind protection from the north, right on the trail)

Night 05 and 06: -47.13355, -72.31556 (Refuge, X {35} 118.3, not a refuge but a collapsed stop over puesto, nice view of the lake, some wind protection but not a lot, easy water access)

Night 07: Casa Piedra (8.000 pp, access to bathrooms, running water, electricity and indoor place for cooking and eating, flat places for tents with some wind protection, there are mice in the outdoor covered areas)

Night 08: -47.17285, -72.36981 (nice view, some wind protection, water is about 100 m away)

Night 09: same as night 1

Night 10: -47.22544, -72.53908 (good wind protection, no water)

WATER:

Generally easy to find, however on a new route to create a loop there was an 18 km section with no water.

Day 01: Feb 25

We started from Cochrane around 11:00. Var R was easy to follow. At [Gate {35-R} 13.5] we met a local gaucho named Lionel who happened to be going through the gate right when we arrived. He was very friendly. We chatted for a bit and he told us to just follow the road to the park. [Gate {35-P} 10.6] was a little tricky. The gate is padlocked shut and the center vertical posts are broken, so I think it would not be a good idea to try to climb the gate. On the downhill side, the gate is only attached to the post by some fence wire. We undid the wire and pulled the gate open from the side to get through and then rewired it to the post. This is easier with two people. [Water {35–P} 7.7] was a stream that was flowing clear. [Water 4.9] was also flowing, but [Water 4.1] was just a couple of muddy, stagnant pools. [Camp 4.0] also looked kind of exposed and not that inviting. There was another stream about 120 m further along Var R. We decided to take Var S (Sendero 6: Los Ciruelillos) down to the lake. At km 3.72 of Var R, Var S starts downhill. We did not see a way to continue on Var R. I could barely make out where a trail might have existed in the past, but it would be BB. Var S was very clear and easy to follow, though somewhat steep and hard on the knees. At the bottom we walked RR NOBO to [Camp {35} 137.6]. This was a really great campsite, right near the lake with flat space for two or three tents, and one tent could be under some trees for wind protection. Unfortunately there were already people there, so we continued toward [Camp 136.9]. Close to it at (-47.19763, -72.45248) we found a really nice spot under a couple of trees right near the lake. We had a windless night, so it was very peaceful, however I would recommend checking the weather in advance as this would likely be a cold spot if the wind was coming over the lake.

Day 02 - Feb 26th

We backtracked across the field and back up Var S, then switched to Opt 3D (Sendero 8: Los Pumas). The route was steep in parts, but again very clear and easy to follow. There were some nice views out over the valley. At the end of Opt 3D we switched to Opt 3C (Sendero 7: Los Guanacos) heading west along the south side of the lakes. At (-47.18524, -72.49595) along the southwest side of Laguna Elafantita there was a really nice beach. It was a sunny, windless day when we were there and we stopped for about a half hour to wade in the water and rest in the sun. We highly recommend making time for a stop there if the weather is good. The path after Laguna Elafantita was across wetlands and was swampy in places, however we managed to get through without getting our feet wet. At the trail intersection we started into Opt 3 (Sector Tamango) (Sendero 9: Los Cóndores). We camped at Laguna Cangrejo at the second official camping area, about 450 m further north than [Camp {35-03} 15.3]. It was a clear sky and a windless night. It got cold very quickly and everything was wet from dew quite quickly.

Day 03 - Feb 27th

We woke up to everything being covered in frost. Both the inside and the outside of our tent had a frost layer. Kasia came up with the brilliant idea to use the rubber scraper spatula we have in the kitchen like an ice scraper. We managed to scrape enough frost to make a tiny snowman. We took some time to get everything dried out since it was a sunny morning. We continued on Opt 3. Part way up there was a short section where a huge blow down had covered part of the trail. At km 10.5 we switched to Opt 3A (Lagunas Altas). There was a 400 m or so section of an exposed traverse on a narrow, degrading path that would not be ideal in windy or rainy conditions. Overwise the trail was in good shape and easy to follow. We camped at (-47.13894, -72.47796) just off the trail overlooking the lake. Water access was about 150 m away, having to walk part way around the lake to get to a stone beach. This would not be a good camp if there was wind, but it had an exceptional view.

Day 04 - Feb 28th

We took an alternate trail that Alex had suggested to us. At km 1.47 of Opt 3A, about 35 m from a stream at (-47.14331, -72.46124), on the right hand side there is a trail that goes east-northeast. It is actually a very clear trail that is easy to follow. The route runs largely parallel to GPT Opt 2 (Ruta X83) but entirely on trail. It goes up above and around the southern side of two lakes and provides some excellent views. It makes for some very pleasant hill walking. I will note that there were very few places to collect water on the way, and the hills are quite exposed. It was sunny and hot the day we went and we wished we had taken more water. The trail finally descends to the lake where it is possible to reconnect with RR. At the north end of the lake we found three areas where camping was possible. We camped more to the east end of the north shore at (-47.15964, -72.41494). It was a really nice spot with space for a large tent and another nearby, easy water access, a wonderful view out over the lake, and good wind protection for us (the winds were coming over the hill that night, not across the lake).

Day 05 - Mar 1st

From the lake we headed up the hill and walked down the road just enough to see the Refuge 130.4 from above. It was still intact, but we were very happy with our choice of campsite for the night. We took Var N for about 500m until it connected into RR at km 130.8, then started RR NOBO. It was a cloudy day, often windy. As we headed up there were caterpillars everywhere. We saw a few woodpeckers tapping away at some trees. At km 127.8 the trail connects with a 2 track road and follows it for about 1 km. The trail breaks off the road again, though it was not visible and we accidentally walked past it. By looking at the satellite later however, we could see that the 2 track road continued on and eventually connected to Opt 2A. This became relevant later. At somewhere around km 120.5 on RR we lost the trail and ended up below it. We had to climb up a steep hill and over to reconnect to the track. The [Refuge, X 118.3] site is not that nice in our opinion, though the dense trees between the site and the lake do provide decent wind protection. We had windy conditions and some rain. There is a nice beach that would be very enjoyable in nice weather.

Day 06 - Mar 2nd

We stayed at Laguna Guagua to wait over rain and high winds. Despite the weather report, the morning was calm and pleasant. The afternoon and the night were very windy. We spent part of the day map scrolling and discovered a road visible in the satellite layer that leaves the highway 13 km after Casa Piedra heading toward Chacabuco, and that then connects to Opt 2A. From the map it looked possible to walk that route and then along the road we had accidentally walked too far on the previous day. We decided that we would try to walk back to Cochrane.

Day 07 - Mar 3rd

It was a cold, windy morning, though the sun was out. The trail was generally easy to see and follow. The lack of maintenance is obvious, but enough people seem to walk it that the trail is generally visible. We found water at three points heading up to the pass (-47.11424, -72.29322), (-47.10902, -72.28838), (-47.09787, -72.28558). The pass was easy. On the way down the trail is a little harder to follow, not so much because it's hard to see, but because there are a lot of strips of bare ground that look like paths, but aren't, or at least aren't the correct one. I checked the GPS frequently and we only had two or three places where we had to search a bit. The views over Laguna Gutiérrez were really spectacular. We had sun with interesting cloud formations around the mountains, and the mountains had a dusting of fresh snow. The water in the lake was a really amazing blue. More to the west end of the lake there were places where it was possible to access the beach. It got much harder to do so closer to the east end. We found water without having to go down to the lake at two points along the lake route (-47.07573, -72.24689), (-47.07908, -72.22735), and one on the way out toward Casa Piedra (-47.07480, -72.20466). There were also some very steep, near scrambling areas that we would not have wanted to do in rainy conditions. We had actually thought of camping near the east end of the lake, but there are no trees there, just a lot of spiky bushes, and no clear path to get there. It might be possible to camp directly on the beach if the weather is calm. The weather report for the following day was rain and high winds, so we decided to camp at Casa Piedra. We were the only ones there other than the guardaparque. We stayed near one of the shelters. There was a mouse scampering around inside it so we stored our stuff in the dining hall in the lodge. When we arrived the guardaparque asked us where we were coming from and where we were going. We said we had come from the direction of Argentina and were going to Cochrane, and she didn't ask any other questions. We were able to pay for camping with a credit card.

Day 08 - Mar 4th

It was very windy throughout the night and rained a fair bit. There was sun in the morning so we were able to dry everything out before getting a late start. That made it worth paying for the camping. We walked 13 km on the highway. There was almost no traffic at all, and only one car passed that was going our direction. For the first couple of hours it was sunny in the valley with clouds all around. Around 13:00 it started raining and didn't fully stop until 19:00 that night. The road we were looking for left the highway at (-47.06902, -72.35132). It was not visible on OSM, but is on satellite. The road is a functioning 2 track road with a new looking steel cable stretched between two poles to block vehicle traffic, but otherwise easily accessible and obvious. About 500 m on the was a trailer and a structure of some sort under construction on a hill above the trailer. No one was around when we passed. After 2.6 km the road becomes Opt 2A. At km 6.7 on the Opt 2A track (-47.12185, -72.36911) there was an unmarked ford. A slow moving stream cut across the road. We looked for a way around it, but it seemed too wide to jump. It was top of the calf with very little current. 200 m further (-47.12237, -72.36619) the other end of the road we had walked too far a few days prior broke off and headed toward RR. We reconnected with RR SOBO, then started on Var N, which is an out of use 2 track road. It was actually still in good shape and was easy to follow. There weren't any fallen trees on the road, it's just a little overgrown with tall grass in some places. We camped under a tree about 100 m from a stream (-47.17391, -72.37062). We had a windless night, but just on the other side of the stream was a flat area under more trees that looked like it was better wind protected. (An important note: when leaving Casa Piedra heading west, the road follows the river for the first 3 km, then starts uphill and away from it. We did not find water again until the ford (about 18 km) and then after that not again until the stream (about 7 km). It wasn't an issue for us because it was cold and rainy that day so we weren't that thirsty, but on sunny days it would be important to take sufficient water before leaving the river as the route had very little shade along the way.)

Day 09 - Mar 5th

We finished Var N, then reconnected with RR SOBO. We camped at the same place we had camped our first night.

Day 10 - Mar 6th

We got a late start due to morning rain. We took RR SOBO (Sendero 3: Los Coigües, Sendero 2: Los Carpinteros). The route was clear, but there were several very steep parts that we would not want to do on a windy day. It was tricky enough with it being wet from rain. At km 143.9 we switched to Var T (Sendero 10: Los Ñires) and headed uphill. As we were rounding a corner, there was a huemul standing in the path about 2 m from us. It looked at us for a minute, then walked a wide circle around us to get back on the trail and head down hill. We then connected back to Var R just before El Hungaro. We passed through the wired gate and found camping at (-47.22544, -72.53908). It was a flat, grassy space in the pine trees a little off the road. It was wind protected, but there was no water nearby.

Day 11 - Mar 7th

We walked back into Cochrane. We were having lunch outside of El Rojito in town and had the pleasure to meet Jakub, Ivan and Daniel. It was really nice to meet some other GPTers along the way.

'''25-02-26 - 25-03-02/ 5 days / SOBO / RR-OH3a-OH3 / Volker'''

Very beautiful section with changing landscapes.
Water everywhere, many fords of Estero Ventisquero, all easy), navigation in the CC parts no problem.

I had a bad knee, walked slowly, shortened the section by hitchhiking/taking a bus.

Day 1: I had called Frida (+56 9 4792 9126) the day before, but she was occupied and recommended another driver (+56 9 8464 3768, WhatsApp account is „Sisterna“) and this very nice and funny man drove me at 8 a.m. for 10k eight km along the X265. At the puesto chatted with the arriero, then straightforward CC to the pass, lots of Guanakos, some condors, flamingos and various species of ducks on the lagunas.
After some stormy days no wind at all, so I camped on a pass some 500m away from the RR at S 46.693877° W 71.874276° for the sunset and the sunrise. Nevertheless be careful with the wind!
Day 2: Rejoined the RR at the indicated pass, then down to the small puesto (nobody there), had to climb a fence. After the puesto swampy and another fence. As I walked slowlier than usual with my bad knee, I went the derour (500m) to the next puesto at and asked, if I could buy any food. The very nice arriero asked me to come in and while we drank mate he buke pancitos, which he offered me with some meat. Unfortunately no food to take away. I spent quite a lot of time with him, so I was really lucky, that in the very moment I arrived at the junction with the MR coming from Chile Chico, a Conaf worker passed by with her car and gave me a ride to their check point. If you haven‘t bought a ticket in advance on the Conaf website, you have to do it now (11,5k, they don‘t accept neither cash nor cards, you have to buy it online, using their WIFI). The Lago Jeinemeni is stunning, recommend to make the 1km detour for the mirador. Camped on a nice river bank 1km before Lago Verde.
Day 3: Very pittoresque, many easy fords (2 additional shortly before the indicated one, as Rio Aviles has destroyed the path on the left side of the valley. Camped at the (destroyed) ‚refuge‘ together with two Chileans, who gave me a practical lesson in fishing.
Day 4: Easy and nice on RR down to Casa Piedra. Ibuprofen made it possible, dimming the pain in my knee. However, I had walked too slowly and during too many rests consumed too much of my supplies to continue as planned. So I waited for a bus at 16.30. It stopped for 15 min at Museo/Los West Winds; unfortunately too late for the museum, but a Cafeteria for some resupply! Sandwiches, chocolate, power bars (goes without saying, that not at supermarket prices) - and a better knee allowed for continuing. So I walked in direction of the Los West Winds camping and after some hundred meters went back into the mountains on the Las Lagunas Altas trail. Camp at S 47.127889° W 72.468457°, great spot with view on the distant ridges in the evening sun.
Day 5: The Las Lagunas Altas Trail joins the gpt OH 3a and passes by the lagunas. Without knowing the RR and other options, I very much recommend this trail! After the lagunas at the pass heavy wind and rain started, so instead of walking all the way to Cochrane, together with Thijmen, whom I met 200m after the pass, we went down on OH3 (sector Tamango) to Los West Winds, visited the museum (recommended!) and went to Cochrane with the bus at 5 p.m.

'''2025-02-25 to 2025-03-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, variant R,S. Leaving trough option 3,/ Thijmen Scholten'''

* I stayed in Hospedaje Rio Baker in Chile Chico it's cheap and very friendly, recommended.
* The pass/Platform very weather exposed, so check the weather forecast before you go.
* You can camp sheltered just before the pass
* Besides all the guanacos There are also Some nice oyster like stones
* I could not really find a trail on the first part but it's a easy CC at which you do not have to be perfectly on the indicated trail. Just more or less in the same direction.
* I found a truly beautiful stone but forgot it and it's at the source of water source 30.6. it's heavy but I wanted to give it to the people who would take me hitchhiking or at the park entrance office. So if you want this beautiful stone you can take it !
* Camped somewhere next to the river on the way down. Took CC shortcut to bridge at 42.7
* next day hitchhiked , pay entrance , easy walk.
* After camp valley Hermosa there were many river crossings (ankle to knee deep). Best to keep your sandals or (non gortex) shoes on and just accept you will have cold feet in the next hour.
* Camped: 100m before refuge 94.7 at an nice little windfree spot next to the river.
* 7 Laguna's trail. About 1km before end of lake and about 1 and 4km after pass are decent streams to get water from. For the rest only water from the lakes.
* Trail fairly easy to follow in forest because of sawn trunks and in grassland because one plant species grows everywhere expect on the trail.
* Trail is not maintained anymore. Therefore would be nice if everyone did some trail maintenance (remove some branches from trail, break some branches , indicate wrong trail with row of stones etc.
* Internet entell at end of the pass 111.6
* Look out that you don't miss the junction at the last lake.
* Option R: is badly overgrown with spiky Plants and seeds! I went 1/3 of the way and turned back. I would not take it
* Variant 3: is nice and clear. At Valle Chacabuco there is a very nice Museum! And a bus to Cocrane @17.00 cost 15.00 CLP.

''' 2025-FEV-21 > 25 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 35-02 > 35-03A > 35-03 > 35-R > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : (GPT34)+GPT35
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : parfois difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : chenilles urticantes, rivière

J'ai laissé ma machette à Coyhaique pour m'alléger. J'ai dormi à l'hostel Ayékan à Chile Chico puis j'ai commencé la randonnée à 9h. J'ai eu du mal à faire de l'auto-stop mais après 4 km de marche une voiture m'a emmenée au km 8. Il y a pas mal d'eau sur le plateau, bien plus qu'indiqué sur le GPS. Il y avait beaucoup de vent sur le plateau mais il faisait beau alors ça s'est bien passé. J'ai campé au km 36 mais il y avait de petites mouches qui piquent, pas super pour se laver. Malheureusement le vent s'est levé et il a pas mal plu dès 20h alors j'ai passé une nuit difficile. J'ai eu beaucoup de chance et j'ai pu faire du stop du km 45 au km 53. Très peu de voitures sur cette gravel road. Les arbres n'ont plus de feuilles car des chenilles ravagent tout dans le parc (https://laderasur.com/articulo/cuncunas-espinosas-a-la-vista-los-impactos-de-una-especie-que-ha-defoliado-miles-de-hectareas-de-lenga-en-chile/). Comme il a bien plu pendant la nuit, toutes les rivières sont en crues. C'est bien car les sentiers sont désert, mais les ford sont très dangereux. Le ranger et un monsieur du coin m'a dit que je pouvais tout franchir en faisant attention. Il n'y a pas de refuges aux km 81,8, 94,7 et 119,1. A partir du km 98, il n'y a plus de rivière, juste de petits ruisseau vaseux et les lacs bien sûr. Au km 10,4 du 35-R, le bâtiment peu servir de refuge. Il est très propre et je n'ai pas vu de rongeurs malgré la mise en garde. Le seul problème c'est qu'il n'y a pas d'eau. Il a neigé au dessus de 1000m. Je suis arrivé à 10h à Cochrane alors j'ai pris un hotel pour y passer la journée.

'''2025-FEB-16 to 2025-FEB-22 / 7 hiking days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''
Beautiful section! Very special for us, and we were lucky to have good weather! first part had a lot of animals. second part had many tourquize lakes and snowy mountains around+ black caterpillars. third part had pampa terrain and 8 beautiful blue lakes.

Day 1- started walking at noon from Chile Chico. There were a lot of hichhikers, so decided to walk the PR. A dog followed us and slept the night with us at camp (14.1/923).

Day 2- started walking with the dog (even though we tried getting rid of him he was very stubborn). Got to puesto (15.8/1075) and asked Claudio the settler if he would like to adopt the sweet dog, which he happily agreed to. Claudio invited us to watch him slaughter a sheep and for breakfast.
Continued walking, saw many guanacos (they make such silly sounds!), and some flamingos as well. Camped at (-46.722612, -71.904105) like Miamzelt-thanks!. Was a long day for us.

Day 3- walked to national park. Until the MR it can be a bit swampy a times- best to keep near fence for dry feet. Saw many dead guanacos near the fence - was interesting to see their anatomy but also sad because it looks like they get traped in the fence and die miserably.
On MR got a ride for last 10k.
In national park payed online for entrance fee- 11,000 each, free wifi. We asked about whether as well and figured we'll have only 2 more days until it will start raining for many days. We decided we would not want to walk in the rain and try to walk longer days then planed to try and finish before the rain and from Casa Piedra take a hitch. Walked up to valle hermoso camp site- great views on the way a few fords before the campsite- easy but cold.

Day 4- after valle hermoso many fords in the morning- more then written in gps files, easy but cold.
Lovely scenary.
Very high and cool bridge at the end of the day. Shelter 94.7 was a bit dirty, we found a nice cozy spot between the trees sheltered from the wind. About 100 meters before the shelter.

Day 5-: thought this will be our last day- but when we got to Casa Piedra we checked the wether again and no rain for the next few days! Decided to continue as planed at first. The first lake we passed had a lot of rip calafate- delicious and juicy! Slept in (-47.09768, -72.28546) as suggested below. Small stream, wind sheltered by the trees, and flat. Thank you!

Day 6- walked though many lakes. Crazy wind! A tree fell 20 meters from us right on the trail- be alert while walking for sounds of cracking trees! Maybe not a good time for airpods. Slept near the lake in camp 138.4. We later discovered that there are two wood shelters a few meters from where we slept. Was not locked and looked pretty clean.

Day 7- walked to Cochrane. Last kms where with many day hikers. Were Many comfortable places to take a dip in the lake.

'''2025 Feb 02 to Feb 14 / 10 hiking days, 3 zero days / SOBO, NOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 6 Fachinal / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: The plateau at the beginning of RR is best done in good weather, but definitely worth it; the park is beautiful, though in summer there were a fair amount of people, though less than Cerro Castillo; Opt 6 Fachinal is a really beautiful and adventurous optional route and well worth it, though in our opinion better as an exit than an entrance to the section.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -46.60658, -71.80980 (nice views, water is about 150 m away, can be semi-protected by the hill depending on which way the winds come from)

Night 02: -46.66455, -71.84387 (some wind protection from the hill if the winds come from the west, water is about 170 m away, only really good in good weather)

Night 03: -46.73523, -71.89404 (water is close, not wind protected)

Night 04: El Silencio campground

Night 05 and 06 : Camp Raleigh

Night 07 to 09: Camp Valle Hermoso

Night 10: -46.75834, -72.22028 (good water access, not that wind protected, ground is difficult to get tent stakes into)

Night 11: -46.69923, -72.22451 (some wind protection, water not close)

Night 12: -46.62948, -72.27663 (some wind protection, water about 200 m away)

WATER: water was generally easy to find throughout the section, even on the plateau

Day 01 - Feb 02

We took the bus from Chile Chico. The company was Buses Interlagos, +56 9 9038 6338. We made a reservation. There is a sign in the terminal in Chile Chico that says they leave at 09:00, but when I messaged to make the reservation they said they would leave at 08:00. It is due to regular road closures for road work, so it is recommended to message in advance to get the correct time if you take the bus. Also, the bus driver knew about a trail to Parque Patagonia, but it wasn't the GPT track, so it's good to watch the map to not overshoot. He charged us 2.000 each for the 8 km ride. The route up initially was just a road so easy going. There were multiple places to get water. At Puesto 15.8 we met Claudio who invited us in. His wife and son had passed us going the opposite way as we hiked up. We stayed and talked with Claudio for about an hour. He was very friendly and hospitable. He said a lot of backpackers go through there, some to the park, but a lot for a rock climbing area nearby. We camped at (-46.60658, -71.80980), water was a little ways away. It snowed briefly just before we set up the tent, then cleared up and was sunny for the rest of the day. The night was completely calm.

Day 02 - Feb 03

We headed up to the pass. We followed the OSM track more than the GPT track which worked well. The landscape on the way up was very impressive and we saw our first guanacos. On the plateau it was pretty windy, but as others have said, there are spots where the topography shields you from the wind and you can get a break from it. We had seen on Windy before leaving that the next day on the plateau was supposed to be essentially windless and with full sun, so we wanted to stay for the night. We found a spot that was protected from the prevailing winds which were from the west that day and had a peaceful night.

Day 03 - Feb 04

We woke up to a silent morning that was quite warm. We took the whole day to walk across the plateau, carefully observed by guanacos the whole way. They seemed to work in shifts with at least one acting as lookout at all times. We found it very endearing. We stopped at a lake for lunch and watched 8 flamingos there as well as other birds. We also came across a curious hill that appeared to be made largely of giant ancient seashells. They looked like oyster shells, and some still looked like they had bits of mother of pearl on the inside. It was just the one hill. The descent was easy, gradual and with nice views. We found camping a little below camp 32.6 in a grassy area near the stream. It was not wind protected but we had a quiet night.

Day 04 - Feb 05

We wrapped up camp quickly, just before it started raining. We went under a fence and did CC between the GPT track and the OSM track. Around km 36.6, just before where the OSM and GPT tracks join, we found a well maintained trail that was not on the map that led down to a puesto. The man who lives there, Leopoldo, was friendly. He opened the gate for us and took us to another gate close by and pointed us to a 2 track road that rejoined with the GPT track after about 500 m. On the main road to the park, few cars passed and they were all full. We had lunch at the Bridge 42.7. The Camp 42.9 looked reasonably good, but it was visible from the road, so not that private. We walked about 1 km before we finally caught a hitch to the park entrance. The park office had an open StarLink wifi network. We bought tickets, 11.400 each. Camping 53.3, Camping El Silencio, was free. Each site had a covered area with tables and benches. Water spigots at the sites were not working so we took water from the outflow of the lake next to the bridge. The caterpillar apocalypse was definitely not overstated. Live, dead, dying, they were everywhere, most ominously in some places as enormous mounds of dead ones, like something out of a horror movie. The park office had to close the main bathrooms due to them and opened a temporary one at the office. They let us charge our devices in the office overnight and pick them up in the morning.

Day 05 - Feb 06

We had a short day just hiking to Camp Raleigh. We stopped and had lunch on the beach of Lago Jenimeni. We passed several groups of day hikers on the way, but were the only ones called for the night. The caterpillars were not as bad there.

Day 06 - Feb 07

We took a zero day to wait out an all day rain event. Two other groups showed up part way through the day, one going either direction. Both intended to keep moving but after two hours of waiting and no break in the rain, they both decided to stay and move the next day.

Day 07 - Feb 08

The hike to Valle Hermoso was fairly easy. All fords were below the knee. At the last ford we went a little higher up and towards a small beach as the direct crossing to the trail marker was quite deep. Up to the pass was easy. On the way down the other side there were a few areas where it was steep and the trail was covered in scree, and a few places where the trail had been washed out, but nothing very difficult. There were some amazing views on the way down. All the fords until the camp were knee deep or below. Four other groups were staying at Valle Hermoso camp that night.

Day 08 - Feb 09

We took another zero day to wait out another all day rain event. All but one of the other groups stayed as well. The river went up about 15 cm over the course of the day and turned completely brown from all the sediment.

Day 09 - Feb 10

We had intended to do some exploration toward Opt 7 Mallin Grande because Garmin weather report said it was supposed to be partly sunny for the day. It turned out to be very cloudy with high winds and very cold, alternating light rain and some snow. The valley was also mostly covered in clouds and fog so we decided to just take another zero day.

Day 10 - Feb 11

We had good weather in the morning. We left for Opt 6 Fachinal. It was a really beautiful walk up. We were in water shoes until the first lake as there were many stream crossings. The first lake is a popular side trip from Valle Hermoso. One of the Chileans at the campsite mentioned that the valley was called Valle de los Glaciers. I'm not sure if that's an official name or just a common name, but we did see three huge glaciers, one above Ventisquero, and the other above the second lake. We passed a private refuge (-46.79249, -72.20797) that was locked, however they had prepped camp sites and an outhouse with running water, so it was possible to use the outdoor facilities if no one was there (if you use the toilet or sink, the water gate is down on the floor to the left of the toilet). It was too early to stop so we continued on. The trail around the bowl above the lake was faint but we were able to follow it. Over the pass the next valley opens up and is mostly flat. A lot of it was wetland, but we were able to find dry foot crossings by staying more on the west side. Occasionally we would come across a bit of trail and then it would disappear again. Around (-46.76362, -72.22212) where the track turns sharply east before heading north again, we switched to water shoes to cross the river. After that point we just left them on. As the track goes north again it enters a shallow canyon and we had to cross back and forth several times. We found a place to set up the tent near the stream at (-46.75834, -72.22028). A very short distance away (-46.75795, -72.22048) was a spot under some trees that was too small for an X-Mid 2, but would be nice for a 1-person tent or a smaller 2-person tent. It was fairly flat with nothing spikey and had great wind protection.

Day 11 - Feb 12

We started the day in water shoes. All the way to the pass we crossed back and forth across the stream. It was never deeper than half-calf, and no serious current. There is a really beautiful lake at the top just before they pass. There is a trail along the west side, but it was so overgrown and muddy that we just walked in the water along the edge of the lake. The pass is a low pass. Going down the other side we struggled through a lot of it. We would find what looked like a good trail and follow it, and then it would just abruptly end leaving us to bushwack for some distance before finding another piece of it. It was strange how some sections would look almost meticulously maintained and then suddenly it would look as if there had never been a trail at all. The track files were very helpful, especially since there were other trail sections that led in different directions. At (-46.69923, -72.22451) there was an abandoned puesto with a single grave next to it. We camped inside the corral of the puesto. Just before it we had passed by the second private refuge. That one did not have as good of quality campsites and the toilet was a latrine with no water. Water access was further down the trail in the direction of the first Tyrolean traverse. That last 400 m is currently marked as CC in the track files, however a trail now exists there and is very easy to follow.

Day 12 - Feb 13

We got up early to do the first ford. Water was crotch height (we're both about 165 cm) and with a good amount of current. The water was icy cold, milky and so hard to see through, and the bottom of the river had very large rocks so it was very uneven. It was one of the more challenging fords we've done. There is a second ford point listed in the track files, but we would not recommend using that point. It looks like a much easier ford, however in the far side there is a rock slide with very large rocks between it and the way to go forward on the trail. It looked to us like the area around the Tyrolean traverse was the only suitable place to cross. After the cross the trail follows the river for a couple hundred meters then heads very steeply up for a few hundred meters. Once up it was fairly easy to follow the trails, but we recommend again keeping an eye on the GPS as there were several trails, and while they often reconnected, sometimes they didn't. The second ford was just above the knee and with less current than the first, much easier for us. There was a flat area that would be good for camping on the far side. The trail then passed through open forest with a fairly clear trail, and through a few pastures where the trail disappeared. There seems to be less trail maintenance than in previous reports with a lot of downed trees not cleared. At around km 31 the trail heads downhill along a fence. There is a path that goes left to stay on the trail or goes right. We went right about 100 m and found an old puesto that has been completely broken down, but that has a nice flat area (-46.62948, -72.27663). We camped there for the night. Water was back out along the track through the fence. There was a side stream feeding into the river.

Day 13 - Feb 14

We had to use water shoes to ford the side stream as even in the morning we couldn't find a suitable place to cross dry foot. The day was warm and sunny and the trail was very pleasant. In a few places other trails showed up. They usually rejoined later. A section of the GPT track had been washed out by the river, so there were a few CC areas. Towards the end the trail passes through an area where a fire has gone through a few years prior. We made it down to the road around 14:00. Hitching was not easy. Very few cars passed by and nearly all of them were full. After about two and a half hours someone picked us up and dropped us off in Puerto Guadal.

We really enjoyed Opt 6 Fachinal and were very happy we chose to walk it. It was beautiful and had a varied landscape, and it felt very “GPT” compared to the park routes. We didn't see anyone else while we were on it. However we would recommend it as an exit since there is a lot of up and down and BB in parts that would be much easier without a full resupply. We would also recommend, if going NOBO, knowing the schedule for buses that pass along the road as it did seem that hitchhiking was not easy, and it was about 45 km or so of rather unpleasant, exposed and dusty road walking in either direction to the nearest towns. During the 24/25 season there were supposedly buses passing one direction or the other at least once during the day every day except Saturday.

''' 2025-Jan-28 to 2025-Jan-30/3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RH / Davide Materia '''

I pretty much had the same experience of MiamZelt, with same camping locations as him.
Details:
1- day. I would probably camp either a bit up than were he suggested, or a bit further down, as there are spots of grass created by dried pond, which if dry enough are perfect location for a tent, in general the location of the first camp is not ideal, many rocks and not that easy to find a spot. This mountain can get pretty windy, I would in general restrain myself from starting the section in bad weather, as even in good weather the wind is really strong, this also suggest why good care must be paid for the location of the tent.
2 trail is next to impossible to keep without gps, I doubt it even exist a real single trail. One good trick here is to jump over the fence and stay always on the right but following the fence until the gpx track and the former diverge. At that point there is a bit more of "grass-bashing" but you are getting closer to the off-track road. For the rest, I hitchhiked to the park once I reached the road and went to camping valle Hermosa, and damn Hermosa it was!!! Resting next to the river under the sun was the best moment in this section.
3 I kept following the track. Many fordings, more than the 2nd day. Luckily I restrained myself from the temptation of packrafting the river beside the trail as ~15km before Casa Piedra it gets inside canyons and becomes a deathtrap, there's a reason if Jan didn't do it by packraft, as always.
Camping Casa Piedra actually has hot shower if the stove warming up the water has been turned on quite in advance, no such luck for me...

4-The next day after deciding to not do Rio chacabuco given all the bad reports of previous years I hiked around 2 hours on the road until some locals picked me up to cochrane.

Awesome section, one I will remember for a long time

'''2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-28 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus at 9am to skip the paved road walk.

After puesto 15.8km the gpx files are CC but there's a trail on OSM which we loosely followed to pass 20.8km, worked out well.

Very exposed and windy from 19km to 32km.

Camp 32.6km was wet, we camped about 500m further.

Got a hitch around 43.5km to park ranger 53km. Paid 11,400 each entrance.

Camp 53.3km and 61.7km have been taken over by caterpillars.

Ford 66.4km about knee deep at about 6pm on a rainy day.

Camped at valle hermosa 68.1km - well sheltered in the forest but lots of people.

Fords 68.4 - 71.6km, 79.3, 82.6, 86.2 all below the knee and easy in the morning after a rainy day.

Camped at 88.6km - slight protected from the wind.

Camped at 98.9km Casa Piedra to wait out some bad weather. 8k pp. WiFi, cooking room, warm showers.

Camped at Refuge 118.3km some wind protection but not great.

Easy walk out, camp 136.9km looked nice we debated staying but walked out instead.
Trail condition is really good after 139.1km so is pretty fast

*'''2025 Jan / 5 days / SOBO / RR + 35-06 alternative to Fachinal / Al & Bee'''

The alternative route to Fachinal is a beautiful and adventurous route, the glacier lakes are particularly stunning. However, the bushbashing part is quite demanding and time-consuming.

Day 01
Transport from Chile Chico to trailhead (X at 8.1) with Pamela. At the settler's property, we passed through a closed iron gate. Easy walking on MR to the Puesto with beautiful views of the lake when looking back. Hiked up through hills past sheep, horses and cattle to the pass. On the plateau it was extremely windy but stunning, with CC being easy due to minimal vegetation. Saw numerous curious guanacos and gorgeous flamingos on a lagoon. Followed OSM rather than GPT track. The marked camp spot was very exposed, so we continued downhill to find a relatively protected flat spot by the riverbed. Met a fellow GPT hiker which was great.

Day 02
CC down the hill to MR, encountering a fence and following a small trail to an empty puesto. Many areas were boggy. Spotted ibis and numerous other birds. Reached the road in the afternoon with no cars heading our direction. Walked to the park entrance, but the ranger station was already closed (open until 6pm). Caterpillars abounded. Walking along the shore of Lago Jeinimeni instead of the trail is often more interesting.

Day 03
Hiked on good trails through the national park. The view from the pass, which we ascended quickly, of the turquoise Lago Verde was beautiful. The caterpillar situation improved somewhat on the other side of the pass. Descended to Lago Verde and hiked up the broad river valley of Vallehermoso. All river fords were easily manageable. Weather was poor - rainy, windy and cold. After Refugio Vallehermoso, we left the RR for the optional route in a north-west direction. The valley was extremely windy at first, but we found a relatively protected campsite at the forest edge in a kind of recess of the valley (close to -46.82125, -72.17825).

Day 04
Hiked up the beautiful valley in north-west direction towards the two beautiful glacier lakes. River crossings were easy, at one the water was thigh-high. At the second lake there’s a mountain hut (-46.79241, -72.20793). Rocky path next to lake up to beginning of high plateau valley. Parts are boggy, otherwise easy CC. Potential wind sheltered campsite with flat spots at -46.76511, -072.21924. Hiked up along (and in) creek to third lagoon and the pass at 15.0 (on 35-6), lots of suitable campsites there. Hiked down from the pass into a forest. Trail finding was initially manageable but became very difficult, with the path extremely overgrown or non-existent. Sometimes there were cow tracks, sometimes broken off branches to indicate the direction. Don’t underestimate the amount of time you will need for this part. Hut at -46.69930, -72.22469 right before the first river crossing. Some suitable campsites in vicinity to hut. Crossing was easy right next to the zipline at 19.9, water about knee high. We camped at a camp without water in old corral ca. 20 minutes before second zipline at 24.0, carried water from river crossing at 19.9.

Day 05
Crossing was easy right next to the second zipline at 24.0, water was even lower than at the first. The trail continued up and down, often well above the beautiful turquoise Río Aviles, which flows through the valley, sometimes between narrow rocks, sometimes in a wider valley. The environment became drier and warmer, with evidence of past forest fires in some areas. We reached the road at the Río Aviles bridge. Initially no cars stopped, with little traffic passing. Eventually a small bus from Coyhaique heading to Chile Chico picked us up.

*'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-17 / 5 days Hiking / SOBO/ RR + Variant L / MiaimZelt'''

I very much enjoyed this lovely section. Took the bus to skip the first 6.5km of Roadwalk. CC was indeed easy, on the way up i didn't follow the Track very closely. Crazy windy between km 19-30. Surprinsingly there were some small areas that had way less wind. Guess it should be possible to find a campspot somehow sheltered by the curves of the landscape, when you can't make it further. Camp {35} [32.6/1300] is exposed and has no shelter besides from the tiny stonewall. Camped here: -46.722612, -71.904105. Was sheltered by the valley and fits a 1 person tent, wind was ok. 100m below there is a spot which can fit a 2 person tent. While sitting in the tent 2 german GPT hikers arrived and took the spot below. I very much enjoyed their company.

Day 2 i could follow animal trails very often. Walked 4km on the road until i got a hitch. Entrance fee was 11400 for foreigner. You have to pay online, but they have WiFi. Tons of black caterpillars everywhere, gets better after Laguna Verde. Trail was in very good shape. Ford {35} [67.0/877] was up to the knees. Stayed at Camp Valle Hermoso, which is very good sheltered by the forest.

Day 3 i met no one, until i reached the camp. Trail was 99% in good shape, few meters overgrown with young beech trees. -46.89382, -72.161099 campspots with shelter from the forest. All fords were easy. Stayed at Camping Casa Piedra. 8000 per person, can pay cash or card. They have WiFi, Room to cook inside and a shower (not hot). Most campspots are sheltered by trees or buildings. Spots next to buildings were occupied by carcampers. Trees provided good protection, although 80km/h winds according to Windy.

Sendero 7 Lagunas was mostly in good to ok shape,
only in few parts the trail isn't visible at all. -47.094236, -72.286568 near pass has lots of flat space and is sheltered by the forest. Small stream here: -47.097866, -72.285581. Also flat areas nearby to create a makeshift campsite. Later the only sources for water were the lakes. Refuge, X {35} [119.1/716] is collapsed, but flat space protected by trees and bushes for one bigger tent. Water from the lake. Stayed at small flat space with very little wind here -47.140176, -72.372035 and listened to the birds.

Day 5 was mostly straight forward. Saw 2 Huemuls near the Minor Road. Lago Cochrane is a real gem. Open and abandoned huts here: -47.198091, -72.457465. There was a sign, saying danger becaus of rodents. Maybe not good to sleep in, but would be a good shelter in heavy rain. 1km later i saw the first dayhikers. Lot's of steep ups and downs at Sendero Carpinteros, but very beautiful. Got a hitch to Cochrane after 1.5km on the paved road.

*'''GPT 35 SOBO RR // hiking, hitchhiking // 4 days 1-4.01.2025 Maks & Gabi'''

Simply magical section with lots of guanacos, birds and beautiful landscapes. We hitchhiked the first 8 km and then from Casa de Piedra to Cochrane.
CC parts were quite easy and visible, later on when entering the park by Lago Jeinimeni the trail is incredibly well maintained. You can buy a ticket by the entrance because the is a wi-fi.

One thing that is worth taking into account when planning the hike, are insects - there are tons of mosquitos and quite a lot of horseflies. Furthermore the ranger (Jeinimeni entrance) warned us about black worms that are in the forests (not sure what is the name in eng). For that reason we did not sleep at the camping by the lake (see pictures), choosing a camp spot by the bridge at 50.0 km instead. It is better not to camp by the trees.
If you have a spare moment we really recommend the visitors center near Casa de Piedra as they have a really nice museum. If you already bought a ticket to the park it is free of charge.

About trail itself it's hard to say something new compare to the previous notes. There was no snow, all ford's easy to cross.

*'''2024-Nov-08 to 2024-Nov-16 / 8.5 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 08.11.2024
Arrived by ferry from Puerto Ibanez in Chile Chico at 1430. Started walking right away. Caught a ride for about 3 km. After street, needed to open fence and door.
Dog kept following all day. Couldn't make him leave.
Settlers (mother & daughter) offered a ride but kept walking. Camp spot at 14.1 was too wet to stay there. Looked for another spot. Nothing was good, wanted to look after puesto at 15.8. settlers offered me mate and asked if I wanna pitch my tent here since it got late. Stayed close to their place. Same settler family who offered me a ride.

Day 02: 09.11.2024
Starting from the settlers puesto CC had light snow when packing my tent. Didn't follow the route exactly. On the way to the first pass, saw the first guanacos. Started snowing stronger. Didn't follow the track or the OSM path to avoid snowfields. Tried to follow the trails but not always possible. Stronger snow and windy. After the first pass went too far to the east to avoid snowfields, thought it'd be easy to come back to the trail but took a longer detour. At least saw the first flamingos! In the plateau it was crazy windy. Sometimes followed track, sometimes OSM. Often in between because of snowfields. Snowfields were not steep, just wanted to avoid them. More guanacos only on the way down. Camp at 32.6 was too wet. ~250 m further down found a protected spot close to a small river/creek.

Day 03: 10.11.2024
Woke up late. Water in pot was frozen about 1 cm thick. Walked down, saw a lot of bones. Followed not the OSM track. Crossed the fence relatively far to the west. CC walking was nice. Maybe as others mentioned there is a path sooner if you cross/stay further east. Hit the dirt road and walked to the main dirt road. Already afternoon. First Pick Up stopped and gave me a ride to the park entrance. Didn't book the ticket before. You can book it at the CONAF station with their WiFi for the same day. 11.400 CLP for the entrance. Camping is free. Walked to camp Raleigh (about two hours) and found a nice spot there.

Day04: 11.11.2024
Short day. Started late, trail easy to follow. In the beginning keep left if other trails are there. First fording section is well marked in the track files. Keep your shoes off until Ford Stop. Climb to pass is sometimes steep but easy. Climb down is ready with stunning view of Valle Hermoso. Some parts with some rock slides. After descend two rivers to ford. Until camp Valle Hermoso some stretches in wind protected first in the river bed, some stretches in open river bed. Easy to follow. Camp Valle Hermoso has two roofed areas.

Day 05 12.11.2024
Started from camp Valle Hermoso. If you keep south you can avoid all the fords. At least at this time of the year.
Trail is easy walking, landscape is stunning! Did a detour to Laguna Escondida. Nice and windy up there. To get there keep close to the track files.
Only needed to take the boots off for the ford at 79.3. The rest was easy to navigate around or enough rocks/trees in the river.
Camped at refuge 81.0 at the broken down cabin.

Day 06: 13.11.2024
Easy walking all day. Trail was easy to follow. Needed to ford once.
The bridge at 90.9 is something if you're afraid of heights.
Arrived early at Casa Piedra. Could use the infrastructure including warmish water. Since I said I won't pass the ranger station it was fine without paying.

Day 07: 14.11.2024
Trail is easy to follow. Lago Gutierrez looks amazing and quite windy. Some beach walking off track is nice. After Lago Gutierrez the trail is mainly easy to follow. Checked the GPS every now and then. Climb to the pass takes some time. Filled water up at a stream at the end of Lago Gutierrez. There was on running stream in the middle of the stretch to the pass. Not sure if it has water all year. Way down is through a beautiful forest. Nice views of the valley along the way. Some trees on the path but easy enough to climb them or walk around them.
Stayed at the collapsed refuge. Enough wind protection even though it was quite windy.

Day 08: 15.11.2024
Trail was easy to follow in the forest. Outside the forest check your GPS when you think you might be off trail.
Water in the beginning mainly from the lakes, later streams existed as well. Took the MR on the RR easy fast walking, no GPS checking necessary. Settler at 138.7 wasn't there passed by his house and followed the RR on a horse trail. Camped at around 142 at Lago Cochrane. Beautiful lake with clear water.

Day 09: 16.11.2024
For the last 12 km it was easy to follow the trail. Quite some up and down. Nice views on the lake. Arrived the CONAF office at lunch time. Did a self checkout. Stayed in Cochrane for two nights before the next bus to Villa O'Higgins left.

Really nice hike! Due to the time of the year I only met one other hiker. It snowed a bit in the first days but not too much. Trails were generally easy to follow. Fording was not too much, might be different at another time.

* '''2024-Dec-14 to 2024-Dec-18 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO/ RR + Variant J, L / Roman'''

Route: Hitchhiked from Chile Chico to X {35} [8.1/505]. Hiked to X {35} [41.5/768]. Hitchhiked from there to Park Ranger {35} [53.0/843] and hiked from there to -47.244414, -72.529165 and hitchhiked from there to Cochrane.

Started in the Morning in Chile Chico and and started hiking at X {35} [8.1/505]. It's a small easy hiking road up to Puesto {35} [15.8/1075]. It's easy CC. I camped at Camp {35} [32.6/1300]. The next day was a easy hike to X {35} [41.5/768]. I was waiting 25 minutes for the first car to come by which picked me up around 11:30 AM - so prepared to either walk or wait quite some time. At the Ranger Station (Park Ranger {35} [53.0/843]) is fesh water, a toilet. There you have free internet via starlink. I have heard multiple stories and read multiple prices for entry. I would recommend to just show up. You will scan the QR code and buy the ticket online. I said that I hike to "Casa Piedra camping". I had to buy the ticket "Parque Nacional Patagonia - Sector Chacabuco" for 5.200 CLP. Link here: https://tickets.pasesparques.cl/events/parque-nacional-patagonia-sector-chacabuco . From there i hiked to Camped at Refuge {35} [69.0/867] there are multiple fordings (river bed walking) which had a few banks and tables and a shelter hut. The next day hiked to Camp $, Refuge {35} [99.8/379] (Casa dePiedra). The Camp has electricity and a warm (not hot ;)) shower and toilets and 3 rooms with benches and tables for cooking etc. I was staying there with 2 other people and the Ranger. Apparently the Ranger doesn't collect/want money - i/we didn't needed to pay. There is Apparently a lady coming from time to time to collect a fee - so we were lucky. The trail was maintained and easy to hike. At the beginning there was some fording.

The next day I camped at Refuge {35} [131.2/556] which is only a emergency shelter but has some flat spots to pich a tent. The trail is not maintained and is sometimes very good or not visible at all - you need you GPS! Overall good easy to hike with some fallen trees. There is a bridge at -47.160823, -72.407796 also with water which makes the Refuge a great place to say. Picture of bridge https://imgur.com/a/ZydIQ7f and Refuge: https://imgur.com/a/NDMT0FP . After that it's a easy hike all the way to -47.244414, -72.529165 where I hitchhiked to Cochrane. I haven't camped there but this location looked like the best stay you could get in the trail here: https://imgur.com/a/rtak82Q. -47.198106, -72.457406 close to Camp {35} [138.4/173].

Stayed at Camping, Refugio ,Cabaña y HostelCochrane which i can highly recommend (camping 7k, dorm 9k, laundry 5k and a supermarket across the street)

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* ''' 2024-Dec-13 to 2024-Dec-17 / 5 days / GPT35 SOBO RR / wiiiim
Relatively uncomplicated & fast section, lots of info exists so just a summary here. In essence it feels like 3 parts

- part 1 Chile Chico to the park entrance: mostly cross country over a barren plateau with lots of animals. I arranged a taxi out of Chile Chico to skip the first 9km of road walk at 7am for an early start - Alexis +56 9 7971 5823. Surprisingly lots of water on this section.

- part 2 Park entrance to Casa de Piedra, park fee is 11400, very easy going, well marked trail, lots of water

- part 3 Casa de piedra to Cochrane, somewhat overgrown, less water, mostly from the lagunas so good to have a filter

I took the bus from Cochrane to Villa O’Higgins, it runs every Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8:30am (returning the next day), it’s a small publicly funded bus (8400 pesos) with about 25 seats, they typically want you to buy a ticket in person in Cochrane in the bus terminal upstairs (I believe the company is Gardy?), I got a ticket the afternoon before and it had 5 seats left.

* ''' 2024-Dec-12 to 2024-Dec-14 / 3 days go and back / GPT35 SOBO option 1 by car and Regular Road with a little part of option D and OH-CC-A-{35-06} to the first laguna/ Julien Mamari

All the way to the Releigh Camp is really easy and try with bridges.
Into the Releigh Camp and the 3rd camp you have 2 rivers to cross with the Gloria pass but it's really easy with sandals... Water to the knees maximum (on my time)
If you go to the first Laguna (option 6) on the right sise of valley better beguin on the left side for around 1km then you have obligation to cross and the best its to keep always on de right side, it's dry.

* '''2024-Nov-07 to 2024-Nov-10 / 4 days with one day of rest at home of Daniel “Huemul” / GPT35 Regular Route SOBO from Kilometer 100 to 150 / Sendero 7 Lagunas / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This scenic route inside Parque Patagonia is officially closed due to lack of trail maintenance but still easily traversable. As we entered from the north we did not speak with any Conaf personnel and learned about the closure when exiting this route in Cochrane.

The GPT track file 2024 precisely documents the official route of Sendero 7 Lagunas from Kilometer 37 to Kilometer 5 (GPT35 Regular Route) where the Regular Route connects on other trails to Cochrane. Note that the OSM data is in large parts incorrect. OSM is showing a now partially overgrown and less attractive routing on disused trails and minor roads. So all topographic maps based on OSM data are unreliable in this respect.

About 30% of the trail is clearly visible, about 60% of the trail is vaguely visible and 10% of the trail are invisible as trail. There is just a trail mark every kilometer but no other visual aids to follow the official trail. This makes frequent GPS verifications essential. Without a GPS and without the correct tracks loaded to the GPS hikers get inevitably lost numerous times and it would be very time consuming to find the correct trail just based on visual references. But with a GPS it’s easy to stay on the trail.

There was no snow left on the 1126 m high pass.

In the forest numerous fallen trees block the trail but there is always an easy way around.

There are no noteworthy river crossings and the trail is dry. Water can be obtained regularly at smaller streams or at the lakes.

There are numerous potential camp sites except from the northern trail head and the 1126 m high pass. This northern end is mostly wind exposed with very little shelter to pitch a tent.

* '''2024-Nov-02 to 2024-Nov-05 / 4 days (but 50 km hitchhiked) / Hiking / SOBO / Option 4 (Ruta RP41 in Argentina) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This option provides an alternative to the weather-exposed regular route of GPT35. Therefore this option should be considered early or late in the season (October, November or April) or whenever poor weather makes the regular route of GPT35 unsafe. This option is east of the Andes main mountain chain in Argentina and the clouds that typically come from the west unload most snow and rain while crossing the higher peaks in Chile. Anyway, the maximum altitude of just under 1500 m should not be undermined. Up on the pass area, weather can become unpleasant all year around.

This road walking option is certainly not as attractive as the regular route but the insignificant traffic and the scenic scenery makes it a worthwhile hiking choice. The landscape is that attractive that one tour company in Los Antiguos offers guided excursions along this route.

This option connects back to regular route of GPT35 at the trailhead of “Sendero 7 Lagunas” that becomes also traversable early in the season (October or November).

Route description:

The border crossing from Chile to Argentina is a 13 km hike or hitchhike as there is not organized public transport. Argentines rarely check luggage of backpackers, therefore bringing all supplies from Chile should not cause problems. Don’t be surprised when Argentine border controls don’t stamp your passport on entry. It’s not any more a given, that all travelers with passports receive an entry stamp when crossing into Argentina.

Before starting on RP41 consider a good meal in Los Antiguos.

The first 43 km on RP41 from Los Antiguos to Estancia Los Alamos are wind-exposed and dry. We were lucky to ride most of this stretch on the back of a pickups truck. From the road we could only see one more reliable water source at kilometer 39.5. And descending 100 to 200 m into gorge of Rio Jenimeni just to refill water supplies seams an ordeal that should be avoided.

The owners of Estancia Los Alamos are welcoming and helpful. We were invited for lunch and offered a bed for a night. But to get moving we opted to start hiking in the afternoon.

Estancia La Frontera at kilometer 46 of RP41 just after the bridge over Rio Zaballos seams also to offer accommodation on request. And here starts the more scenic part with patches of forest and more regular water streams crossing the road.

At kilometer 54 of RP41 by-passes are welcome to camp just next to Rio Lincoln. Here we spend our first night.

At kilometer 64 of RP41 the last patches of forest are left behind and exposed but scenic landscape is crossed.

The highest point of RP41 (“portezuelo”) is reached at kilometer 76 with just under 1500 m. The last snowmelt washed a part of road away stopping currently most transit traffic but hikers and bikers can cross this damaged road section without problems.

While walking from Rio Lincoln up to the “portezuelo” the wind and the light snowfall increased. But compared to the weather in Chile at the same time our conditions where quite manageable. The lack of wind-sheltered places keep us moving to kilometer 79 of RP41. Here, an unlocked puesto with a wood stove provided a surprisingly convenient shelter for our second night en route. We just had to seal some gaps in the walls to reduce the wind and snow from entering our temporary refuge. When getting up on the next morning a thin layer of fresh snow covered everything around us.

The descent to Paso Roballos at kilometer 96 of RP41 traverses open but scenic landscape with little natural shelter.

The best places to camp after the pass are:
Kilometer 79: unlocked puesto
Kilometer 87: maybe near puesto at 47°06'47"S 71°50'00"W
Kilometer 96: the crossing to Paso Roballos 2 km before the Argentine border control

At the Argentine border control camping is not permitted.

When exiting Argentina make sure to get an exit stamp. This stamp is required to enter into Chile.

Another good option is the abandoned Chilean military post 4 km after the Argentine border control. Most buildings of this small compound are sealed closed but one shelter is open and one mostly closed veranda provided good shelter for us for one night while rain and snow made pitching a tent less pleasant.

The Chilean border control is 11 km inland from the border.

From the Chilean border control it’s another 26 km to the trail head of “Sendero 7 Lagunas” with a brilliant camp site halfway (“camping alto valle”).

* '''Note:''' The RR was changed between Lago Jeinemeni and Lago Verge in October 2024, so numbering of options in the reports below might be slightly off.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024 Mar 14 to 2024 Mar 19 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: Hiked out of Cochrane after lunch in light rain. Hiked up Sendero Las Aguilas then Las Lengas, easy trail and well defined. Rain got heavier as we approached Laguna El Cangrejo. Camped on the west side of the lake, started snowing lightly as we set up. One of the colder nights and we considered turning back and taking the lower route as we weren't sure how passable Laguna Altas would be in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to a snowy morning so decided to wait it out in the tent. Packed up once it stopped around 11am and followed Sendero Los Condores. Luckily had a bit of sun as we went over the pass but as we were coming down the other side the rain and wind picked up. Abandoned our plans to hike the Lagunas Altas circuit and instead followed it straight down to Westwind campsite. Sat there for a bit hoping to see a puma but only guanaco in sight. Hiked towards Valle Chacabuco hoping for a hitch but no cars came past. Kept walking along Paso Roballos trying for a hitch, eventually a couple from the UK picked us up and dropped us at Casa Piedra. Spent the night there and got a hot shower which was excellent after all the rain and snow. Didn't end up paying any entry fees for the park or the camping as noone asked.

Day 3: Got up fairly early to overcast day but no rain. Followed the eastern branch of the Sendero Aviles which was clearly marked and easy to follow. The bridge over the canyon is fun to rejoin the west branch of the trail. Kept following the track along, easy going until you hit the river bed and then there are many crossings back and forth. We did a bit of dodgy scrambling up the banks to avoid getting wet feet. We were going to push on but it started raining lightly about 4pm so we set up camp in the trees along the river. Another group joined us later that night as it was raining heavily and it was the first flat and clear spot.

Day 4: Started along the track, excellent views as you pass Cerro Jeinimeni. Fairly easy track down to the next river, followed by a lot of walking in the river bed. Gave in and just walked through the water to Lago Verde. Crossings were never really over ankle deep. Track around Lago Verde is fine to follow with excellent views. Very windy as we got over the pass and the path down is quite eroded (but manageable). Hiked around to Raleigh. There is a new suspension bridge over the river at Raleigh that connects to Sendero Laguna Esmerelda. It isn't marked on Gaia or Maps Me so a group behind us went around the other way and had to do a hip deep river crossing. Going via Raleigh and Sendero Esmerelda avoids all river crossings and is an easy track to follow. Hiked all the way to El Silencio for the night, noone there so didn't pay any fees.

Day 5: Started the hike out along the road hoping for a hitch but no cars went by. Headed up the plateau following a minor road, then relying on GPS and animal tracks. Lots of guanaco. Kept hiking up the hill as the wind picked up. Found a camp spot somewhat out of the wind towards the top of the plateau with a small river passing by for water. Started snowing as we went to sleep.

Day 6: Woke up to a few cms of snow on the ground and tent and started a very frosty walk up and over the plateau. Lots of guanaco around but not much else other than snow. Luckily the sun came out as we were coming back down the other side as it was freezing up the top and was difficult navigating with the snow cover. Once it cleared we had awesome views of the Torres de Avellano and the lake. The descent track is pretty eroded and very slippery in parts where mud is hidden under small stones. Eventually joined up to the minor road and followed it down to Ruta 265. I had a weird phenomenon with my shoes picking up enormous amounts of sticky mud on the minor road, making my feet a few kgs heavier and having to scrape it off every 100m. Got a hitch to Chile Chico from Ruta 265.

* '''2024-Mar-12 to 2024-Mar-17 / 4 + 2×0.5 = 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH D + F / Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [0.0-16.7]

I startet around 2 pm and did not try to hitch the first 8 km on the primary road. There is a good flowing stream at the water marker (km 12.2) and at the camp (km 14.1). The flat spot that is camp 14.1 is swampy and therefore not ideal for camping. I camped at -46.60658, -71.80980 which is at least a little bit wind protected. There is also a stream on the other side of the RR close to this spot.

Day 2: RR [16.7-48.2]

There was plenty of water. The RR was covered in snow from about km 23 to 28. I took a CC shortcut from km 40.8 to 42.7. I camped at -46.810258, -71.965073.

Day 3: RR [48.2-59.1] + OSM trail to Laguna Verde + OH35-D + RR [62.4-88.9] + OH35-F + RR [70.3-78.9]

The park gate at km 50.1 is open from 9 am to 5 pm. But the ranger didn't mind, that I entered before 9 am. I paid 17000 Pesos at the ranger station (km 53). This fee allows camping at all the Campgrounds in the park. I followed the official park trail which branches off at km 59,1 to Laguna Verde. From there it returns via OH35-D to the RR. All fords today were below my knees. After km 75.5 the RR was partially flooded and you had to walk through some branches. Therefore I sometimes walked in the river bed on the eastern side of Rio Aviles. I camped at km 78.9. Its an official campground of the park, but there is nothing. But its flat and wind protected.

Day 4: RR [78.9-106.3]

The roof of the refuge at km 93.9 is collapsed. Casa de Piedra is a real house with bathrooms and some common rooms to hang out and probably sleep. I camped on the lakeshore at -47.074614, -72.25701. I would not recommend this spot for windy nights.

Day 5: RR [106.3-137.6]

The next reliable water source after Lago Gutierrez (km 106.3) is a stream at km 113.8. Its possible to camp just south of the pass (km 110.8). I did a shortcut from km 129.1 to 130.3. I had to cross a small swampy area for that. Camping at km 137.6 is nice.

Day 6: RR [137.6-150.4]

Nice campsite at km 146.0 (RN Tamango) with sheltered tables and spots for camping. I stayed at camping calafate in Cochrane (-47.254013, -72.568419). It has a kitchen with common area (heated by wood oven), wifi and hot showers for 7000 pp.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Mar-01 / 6.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR+RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Much has been said about this section, so we will share only our impressions.

Day 1: After reaching wp Settler {35} [8.9/539] by taxi in the early evening, we hiked a short distance and camped at wp Camp {35} [14.1/923]. On a windy day it’s basically unprotected in a narrow valley. There was no wind that day, making it a spot with a great view.

Day 2: Upon reaching the plateau, it felt like a guanaco/flamencos safari as previously described. To get up there, you have to CC on one manageable steep stretch. Follow the dotted line in OSM relatively far to the left and not the GPT files. We camped north of wp Water {35} [28.1/1579].

Day 3: We headed across the pass and amazing views opened up before us. On the downhill, follow the GPT line until you reach a fence. Go through the fence on the left end and follow the fence line towards wp Puesto {35} [34.6/1191]. From the side of the puesto, you can easily follow well trodded horse tracks along the fence line until -46.75064, -71.89899. Follow the trails along the river towards the south until you hit the MR. We stopped for the night at wp Camp {35} [42.9+0.2/713].

Day 4: Cars did not appear until after 10am but we eventually got a ride to the park entrance. From here, the more touristy part begins. Once inside the park we decided to walk the MR around Lago Jeinemeni and only inflated the packraft at Lago Verde. This was an absolutely great paddle on the most turquoise waters and we were lucky with the afternoon wind. We stayed the night at Refuge {35} [68.1/867].

Day 5: The next part has lots of fording so expect slow progress. We left our crocs on for the next 3 km. Well marked trail through the forest and across the pass. On the other side, however there is a new official route which starts here -46.87696, -72.17213 and requires more fording. The old trail still exists and no fording was necessary. Stick to the GPS here if you want to save time taking your shoes off! The rest of the way down the valley was enjoyable and we stayed the night just before wp Ford {35} [82.6/805].

Day 6: Easy hiking down to Camp Piedra where we stayed and camped early.

Day 7: We started paddling Rio Chacabuco the next morning, but I would advise packrafters against doing so (at least in the late season). Conditions of the river included low water levels with frequent ground contact and many trees in the water. The river splits often, making the already low water even lower and obstacles in the tightly winding corners become even more tricky. First time that we hit a tree since we are on the GPT. As if that wasn’t enough, wind picked up early and forced us out of the water. We decided to water-out here -47.05177, -72.29040 and hiked up the road, where a car took us towards Cochrane after 2 hours.

* '''2024-Feb-27 to 2024-Mar-04 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {35-S} - {35-D} - RR - {35-J} - RR - {35-L} - RR / Lilian & Rainbow '''

Safari = GPT35, we saw foxes, bunny, flamingos, ostrich, owl, woodpecker, and more than 100 guanacos at this section!

We standing at the end of town more than 1 hour and found that it is really difficult to hitch out by low traffic. So we go to tourist information ask for help maybe a ride, a man at there said he can take us to x[8.1/505] for 10k CLP, but lastly he just took us to the junction at km5.9, and said he don't want to drive on a non paved road, then don't wait us to respond and throw our backpacks out from his car immediately, and ask for the money.

So, DON'T ask any ride in tourist information at Chile Chico, they cheated our trust.

Km12 : flat spot (-46.57669, -71.82779) can fit some tents at other side of a stream, the stream is flowing good and dry feet crossable by rock hopping.

Km12.75 : viewpoint(-46.58294, -71.82549) of a valley with sky blue colour, super beautiful, don't miss it!

Camp[14.1/923] : grassland spot, a small stream is flowing low beside it.

Km16.6 : flat spot(-46.60658, -71.80980), have some covers can stay away from the wind tunnel in valley at north.(wind from north)

After this spot, no more camping spot or flat spot have wind protection until camp[32.6/1300]. Wind is crazy at the plateau.

Camp[32.6/1300] : tiny wind protection from a rock wall, just fit 1 tent for it. Better wind protection nearby camp[42.9/713].

Short cut CC from 38.2 to 42.7, it doesn't save much time, better follow GPX track, MR is completely finished and super easy to walk. It also walk beside some beautiful meadows that are nice to camp(no wind protection).

Camp[42.9/713] : spots at a wet muddy road. Better spots nearby at (-46.79053, -71.91127), dry and 2-3 sides wind protection by bushes, can fit many tents there.

Didn't see any cars going south at morning, so road walking all the way to entrance. 11k CLP for entrance fee, 6k CLP for camping fee, total 17k CLP, can pay by credit card.

Camp,$,bridge,lake[53.3/852] : El Silencio campsite and Lago Jeinemeni. This campsite is a little bit crown with car camping, and the lake is amazing beautiful!

HIGHLY RECOMMEND walking on the shore of lake from km56.65 - km57.75(from the junction of viewpoint, to the point that trail met the beach), easy, dry feet and excellent beautiful!

Bridge[58.9/856] : after this bridge, follow south route ( {35-S} & RP{35} ) to Lago Verde, then take the bridge(-46.86056, -72.07982) to cross the river. Lastly follow {35-D} rejoin RR. Dry feet.

Lake [59.2/840] : Laguna Esmeralda. Didn't find any camping possibilities. Better views at trail.

Refuge[61.7/856] : beside Laguna Esmeralda, a super blue lake. This refuge is not a cabin, just a shelter with 3 side wooden wall, good wind protection, but I'm not sure about heavy rain, because i saw many holes at the wall. Better camping spot with views beside the lake(not much wind protection).

Ford start/end[63.4/896] : late season, all the way easy dry feet crossing, walking on log or rock hopping.

Pass[64.5/1132] : no camping spot here, the spot shown on OSM, is already covered by many blowdowns. Nice viewpoint(-46.84093, -72.10324) of Lago Verde just SW of here.

Ford[66.1/877] : better river crossing point at (-46.83741, -72.11991), there is a sign at another side of river. Below knee, easy.

Ford[66.4/859] : river breaks into some parts, below knee, easy.

Refuge[68.1/867] : shelter with 2 walls, nice weather protection. Refuge with 4 walls, but huge air tunnel at ceiling, so just wind protection. A sign book inside refuge too. Camping spots at here can fit lot of tents, mostly have some wind protection, but not much, because trees are too tall, and just 1 spot behind a blowdowns have well wind protection.

Fords[68.4/869] - [71.6/905] : lot of river crossing, some trail can go around the river, but not much help and they are overgrown, so finally you need to be crossing and crossing then wet feet.

Km74.7 : camping spot(-46.87204, -72.17630), can fit 3-4 tents with some weather protection by the forest. Have a shelter made by logs here, can squat 1-2 hiker inside for emergency, but not much help, because it is really small and too many holes on it.

Km75.7 : camping spot(-46.87886, -72.16954), can fit 3-4 tents with some weather protection by the forest.

Km78.9 :camping spot(-46.90498, -72.15591), and some more spots nearby, total can fit 4-6 tents with some weather protection by the forest.

Ford[79.3/846] : Below knee, easy.

Refuge[81.0/819] : no refuge, no shelter. Camping spot with views can fit 2 tents but no protection.

Ford[82.6/805] : Below knee. Camping spot(-46.93485, -72.15869), can fit 2 tents with not much weather protection by the bushes, before the crossing.

Km83.3 : camping spot(-46.94089, -72.15600), can fit 2-3 tents with some weather protection by some trees. Also one spot at south but not much protection.

Km84.7 : camping spot(-46.95268, -72.15123), can fit 1 tent with some weather protection by some brushes.

Km88.6 : camping spot(-46.98397, -72.15988), can fit 2 tents with weather protection by some trees and brushes. Flat area nearby can fit many tents with good views but no protection.

Bridge[90.9/635] : classic bridge! Worth to take a look and walk on it!

We took {35-J} instead RR here, because less puds, also walking on a plateau looks like more scenic.

{35-J} Km5 : viewpoint(-47.03902, -72.19077) of the whole valley, very beautiful! Don't miss it!

Camp,$,refuge[98.9/379] : Casa de Piedra campground. Have some shelters with picnic table for cooking, and a refuge with hot(warm) shower, toilet and some tables for meals. If you decide to camp here, please expect sleep late. This spot mostly are campers and tourists. They'll speaking and cooking until 10 or 11 or midnight.

You can take a shuttle form here to Cochrane(30k CLP per person) or Camping Los West Wind(15k CLP per person)

Time schedule: 9am Cochrane - 9.45am Museo, 10am Museo - 10.15am Camping Los West Wind, 10.30am Camping Los West Wind - 10.45am Museo, 12noon Museo - 1pm Camping Casa de Piedra, 4.30pm Camping Casa de Piedra - 5.15pm Museo, 5.30pm Museo - 6.30pm Cochrane

Start from here, the trail is not maintained anymore, but still in good condition.

Km103 : Lago Gutierrez, amazing beautiful lake, have some minutes i thought back to Norway again.

Km103.85 : a small stream(-47.07911, -72.22738) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect.

Pass[110.8/1126] : some fresh snow remain at here.

Km112.45 : emergency camping spot(-47.10718, -72.28893), the ground is a little soft, but is flat and some wind protection, can fit many tents here.

Km116.9 : Laguna Guagua. Camping spot(-47.13350, -72.30170), can fit 2-3 tents with some wind protection from west by bushes, SW of the spot have a side trail to lake. BUT, DON'T go for {35-02A} back to RR, it is completely CC and BB with spike plants, not fun. Better CC climbing up to RR from camping spot directly.

Refuge,X[118.3/716] : no refuge, it is collapsed. The woods becomes a super small shelter here. If you lost your backpack, crawling inside maybe can save your life. Otherwise just for photos snapping function.

From here to km125.0, you will walk beside 3 lakes, didn't see any wind protection camping spots there, but if you have good luck at a no wind night, you maybe find some spots at the last lake.

Km125.0 : road walking start. Flat spot with some wind protection on the road can fit 1-2 tents at here too.

Km125.9 : junction of RR and {35-L}, because the road is too easy to walk and follow, we completely miss this junction and walk a long time then realised RR is a different way, so we keep going on {35-L} and rejoin RR later.

{35-L} km3.6 : a small stream(-47.17383, -72.37063) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect. Flat spot can fit 1-2 tents after the crossing.

We walked the whole way{35-L} and rejoin RR at km130.8.

RR Km132.4 : flat spot(-47.17220, -72.42231) can fit 1 tent at the end of lake. With some wind protection by forest.

Camp[136.9/162] : can fit 2-4 tents with weather protection by forest, but if the wind is come from south, it is not much help. Excellent views on the beach.

Camp[137.6/173] : can fit 2-3 tents with wind protection from east and north by trees. Excellent views on the beach. Just beside a port, looks like can take a boat to here.

Km138.3 : camping spot(-47.20064, -72.46718), total can fit 3-5 tents at several stage, some spots have good wind protection by trees and bushes.

From here to km146.0, lot of up and down beside some cliffs (maybe slippery in rain), but it is a trail with lot of amazing views, we are really enjoyed it.

Km139.77 : a tiny stream(-47.20803, -72.47813) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect.

Km141.73 : side trail to viewpoint(-47.21986, -72.49280) and cell service for Movistar.

Km142.15 : flat grassland(-47.22231, -72.49623) can fit 4 tents just beside the beautiful lake, some wind protection by valley itself.

X[143.9/244] : cell service for Entel(-47.23128, -72.50780)

Km146.0 : RN Tamango campground, some shelters for cooking, large arae for camping, hot shower and trash can, 7k CLP per person.

Km146.5 : the last flat spot(-47.24353, -72.53067) before Cochrane, some wind protection by brushes, can fit 1-3 tents with nice sunrise, you can arrive there by a clear trail beside ranger station, the trail is shown on OSM map.

Cochrane :

Lot of accommodation, markets and restaurants, and 2 outdoor gear shops.

230g gas canisters, power bank, chargers and tent stakes at Supermercado Melero(-47.25386, -72.57414).

Sunglasses, micro spikes, snow shoes and some clothes at La Ruta 7 Patagonia(-47.25591, -72.57320).

Sleeping bag, tents, boots(just 1 trail runner), socks, base layer, warm clothes and pants at Kalfu Patagonia(-47.25474, -72.57018).

Clothes at Vansy(-47.25417, -72.57431), not a outdoor gear shop, but some sporty clothes and pants for a low price at here.

Some campground and lot of indoor stays at Cochrane. The only hostel is Camping, Refugio ,Cabaña y Hostel(a long name) (-47.25446, -72.57497). And most of the rooms here include breakfast(without kitchen), 20k CLP per person. The only one we found with kitchen(but no breakfast) is Casa Raíces Hostal(-47.25113, -72.56848).

Bus terminal to Coyhaique, Villa Cerro Castillo, Villa O' Higgins, Chile Chico, Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Tortel at (-47.25137, -72.57317).

Tourist information(-47.25439, -72.57283).

I recommend La Martica(-47.25112, -72.57266), local restaurant with nice food in a good price.

* '''24-Feb-17 to 2024-Feb-22 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Variant L / Tomáš & Natalie'''

There were several hitchhiker groups out of Chile Chico so we took a taxi (990250968) to the settler at 8.9 for 10,000 CLP. Nobody was there, but there is a locked gate so it would not be possible to take a taxi further up. For pedestrians, there is an unlocked door. One can shortcut the first zigzag of the road thereafter and several others, it is open terrain. We camped in a dry lakebed (for windprotection) about 1 km after the first pass. Despite strong wind in Chile Chico and a forecast of wind gusts over 60km/hr, the night was largely peaceful with just one hour of wind. The plateau has terrain features and it seemed to us it is not that impossible to camp there, but maybe we were just lucky.

The next day was like a safari, lots of animals and little wind. Pawprints on lake bed turned out to be a big dog and not a puma according to the rangers though. Going down from the plateau, it is possible to shortcut the GPX track to the SE and end near the puesto at 34.6. Trail starts above the puesto but is not so easy to follow and the GPX does not seem to be the most precise. It is advisable to take a CC shortcut to bridge at 42.7 as mentioned by Adrien Kunzli: about 1 km before the end of MR 38.2, veer right aiming for a black outcrop on the mountain on the other side of the valley and you will pop out above the bridge. We got lucky and got a ride at around 16:30 to the parkoffice. We paid 15000 CLP only for one person - they forget to charge the other one. They were friendly and told us the weather forecast. We did not get any receipt or pass though. Walked two hours to campsite Raleigh, there were two other foreign tents there. The new trail is technically the old "laguna Esmeralda" (RP 59.2) trail with a new bridge, so keep left to avoid fords, combined with variant D it seems preferable to RR even when not intending to camp [November 20224: this is not RR].

From Raleigh, the first fords were possible to cross without fording thanks to logs and stones. The next valley is indeed beautiful, especially Lago Verde. There were about ten tents but no people near the refugio at 67.6. Tomáš tried to go around the second fords through the forest on the left and he eventually reached variant F, which exists but partially goes through a marsh and does not avoid fording anyway: it is pointless, just ford. Initially the start of the fords seem like a marsh, go around it from the right through the river, it is a nice riverbed thereafter. Rio Aviles was kneedeep and ok. Ford 71.2 is mighty - go downstream about 200 m, it splits and is easy there (there is a cairn in the middle). We camped at a camping site marked on OSM about 2 km further down from there. There is a place for one tent about 20 m from a creek. Very nice spot. Having a headstart to people starting from the park office, we only met three groups of foreigners all day.

Variant J does not avoid any substabtial fords, water at 96.1 is easily jumpable and the river is bridged on both J and RR.
Casa de Piedra is a nice spot with resident guanacos (and some tourists). Tomáš had a hot shower! We were asked for our passes - we explained we were not given them and it was ok. We went on. The Siete Lagunas trail is surprisingly in a rather good shape. It is little used but not much overgrown and generally easy to follow, needing a GPS only occasionally. Tomáš liked it tremendeously. Did not meet anyone on it.

We slept near the pass next to a marsh. It rained most of the night but stopped before morning, luckily the trail was not too wet the next day. The first stream after the pass is very weak (not flowing if not raining?); it flows from the marsh by which we slept and is about 500 m after the pass waypoint. The next stream is about 1 km further down, it had more water. After that, water is only in the lakes. Tomáš cleaned a lot of the logs and branches from the trail, if you can spare a moment, please do likewise. We could not see any traces of option 02A or option K. We took option L near km 129.9 - we were confused by other reports because we thought people were taking the much longer part of L that follows a MR. RR leaves the Siete lagunas trail at the end of option L after 29 km. The trail probably goes to Valle Chacabuco. [OSM has Variant F and L marked as "Sendero 7 Lagunas", this is wrong. Variant K looks to be indeed CC and variant L looks to be an unnecessary detour on a MR (overgrown and with logs at first when RR is on this MR - when you cross the MR again after four km on RR, it no longer looks that overgrown). November 2024: OSM has been corrected.] On L, one can easily take a CC shortcut from top of the hill to MR. We found two shortcutting trails to the MR. We met Daniel who was coming back from cutting invasive pines with his chainsaw, he had a friendly and humorous attitude. Camped at the lake at the wind protected camp.

The night brought surprisingly strong wind and rain - try to camp deeper in the forest. We followed a faint trail tracing the shore of the lake instead of CC 137.6, in the middle of it there was an apple tree that will be ripe in March probably. Did not meet anybody until the viewpoint above the lake that says "signal Movistar" (we have Entel, which has a sign 2 km further on but it did not work, just wait one hour until Cochrane proper), from then on, there were daytrippers. CONAF had a lunch break so we passed unnoticed. Cochrane as a town is ok.

Nat's Notes:
The Bulk shop in Chile Chico (Güenta Emporio) is not open on weekends, they have weird hours and sometimes need to call before; Andrea +56 9 9540 1708. I recommend the hospedaje Rio Baker, 15mil pp which is the general price here.
The plateau
- Besides Descabezado, this area was one of the most visually interesting sections for me. I haven't had that much fun taking photos in a long time. At first the guanacos scared me a little, I felt like I was surrounded by ninjas, eventually I warmed up to them. A good place for a zoom camera.
-For me the going was slow, besides being tired and equipped with rash-covered feet I found the navigation tricky. I kept aiming for the wrong pass because there are many rolling hills. However I found things got better near and after pass km28.8.
- Water in the plateau is still frequent. If one wants to camp as close to the plateau as possible (SOBO) I suggest this spot:-46.62397, -71.81920. Also there is a nice grassy and fairly sheltered spot near water km23.9: -46.66437, -71.84393 and a big flat grass patch at water 30.6. There is a huge boulder for wind protection if needed here; -46.65469, -71.83997. In the valley bottom near the puesto, there are less/no camping spots. I did not like all the dogs at puesto 34.6, so I purposely avoided it.
- When finishing the plateau section, I filled up on water at the last stream that wasn't the main river here: -46.72842, -71.89633, as I didn't think we would get a hitch to the park office.

Sendero Avilés
- The descent from pass km64.5 is nothing, just a bit of dirt dust that makes traction hard. The only part on this track that I would worry about safety-wise (apart from the two river crossings) is a new steep traverse 2ish kms after pass km74.1: -46.88996, -72.16428. I decided to throw my bag down 5m instead of walking down the "free fall". (Alternatively you could ford rio Aviles twice.)
- The series of mini river crossings were all fine, there is a nice water source before pass km74 in the forest once you finish all the fords, it comes from a waterfall not far away.
- Near the end I took Variant J bcs I thought it avoided a river crossing (no rivers to cross but RR doesn't either). If you do this option I recommend still going to the hanging bridge at the X of J and RR bcs it is a fun and unique bridge!
- Cassandra at Case Piedra was nice and easy to get along with.

Siete Lagunas
- The water we took from the marsh was probably the grossest water I have had to drink, lots of algae and oil, I filtered and boiled. (The second stream was much better.)
- As noted the trail is not hard to follow at this moment, only a handful of times I lost it. That being said it could be because we were walking near the end of the season and therefore it was obvious where ppl had been walking (pushed down grass), I think it would be a lot harder at the beginning of the season. Another bonus was that most spikees were gone.
- Near to camp 136.9, there is a water source. It is at the end of the beach, 200-300m west of camp. There are two or three more water sources on the first part of the trail but after the look-out, there are no more.

* '''2024-Feb-6 to 2024-Feb-11 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option L / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : really nice overall // the trail is sometimes overgrown and easy to loose from km 113,5 to km 122, so just keep an eye on the gps
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : we camped at km 32,6 and it was a bad idea, too exposed and we got snow and a lot of wind during the night, would really recommend to go down more // we camped near the lago Gutiérrez at km 106,15 there is place for 2 tents
- Weather : windy, sunny, snow, rain
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in Chile Chico (a bulk shop just opened in front of the camping Nandu) // in Cochrane everything you need
- Entrance fee : for park Patagonia 11 000 pesos per pp + 6 000 pesos for camping per pp
- Overall : really nice section, we were happy to encounter 3 huemuls

*'''2024-Jan- 18 to 2024-Jan-24/ 7 days/hiking/SOBO/ 35/ 35-02a( from 47.1567357S, 72.4154650W)/ 35-02 ( from S 47.12123, W 072.46099) /35-03 ( from S 47.11712 W072.48494)/35-03c ( from Laguna El Cangrejo)/35-03d/ 35 from Lago Cochrane/ Paulina'''
Long, beautiful tour in Parque Patagonia, as I mixed different variants, it allowed me to see all the divercity of the park. Almost no people, a lot of guanacos, a really beautiful section!

Day 1 The way from Chile Chico to Lago Jeinimeni. I was prepared to walk all the way, but as some cars stoped and it was a very hot day, I took a lift ( I have walked maybe 8 km in total ). I stopped at 46.7304997S, 71.7415019W, to do the loop of about 7 km in the first reserve of Jeinimeni. The entrance is paid 6000 CLP but the ticket is valid later, at the main entrance at Lago Jeinimeni ( the next 2 days). It's really worth to walk on this place. The rock formations are amasing. It takes about 3h and you can leave your backpack at the park reception After that, another car stoped and took me to the main entrance of Lago Jeinimeni. The views from the road are really scenic, it's a pity not to walk some parts of this road, lucky my car was old and slow so I could admire the views.

Day 2 From Lago Jeinimeni to the refugio and camping at 46.8406732S, 72.1409082W. The first part of the trail to Portezuelo La Gloria is rather easy, it stays mostly in the valley, the ascent to the pass is not very difficult and rather short. On the way down from the pass there are some steeper moments and there are some places where the trail is distroyed by a kind of stone avalanche so you have to find your way thru the stones. Amasing views on Laguna Verde. Once you are down at Laguna, there are some fords, when I was there, the highest one was till knees.

Day 3 A lot of fords all the way in Valle Hermoso, there were all easy to cross. Also, you can't clearly see the path but anyway, you have to follow the valley. Sometimes there are signes so you will always find the way. This day, the only a bit more difficult place you can find around S 46.89032 W 072.16461. Going SOBO it's a steep descent, it's very short but steep. Can be dangerous after the rain. Later the views on the canyon on Aviles river became really amasing, it was for me one of the most beautiful part in all the park.

Day 4/5 I had 6 km till Casa de Piedra ( there was a tiny spot for one tent with a stream at this distance) and I started the part Siete Lagunas. At Casa de Piedra I asked the ranger if the trail was walkable and he confirmed that it was ok and I could go. But, as the others already mentioned , the trail is not maintained anymore. Till the end of Laguna Gutierrez it's rather easy to find the way without gps, but later, there are some places where the path is not at all visible. With trail on gps is not very difficult to find the way, but without this, can be very difficult to follow this trail. There are also a lot of fallen trees, some BB. If they do nothing, I think in 2 years the path will completely disapear. But it's a beautiful trail, wild, you meet nobody, a pure and intacked nature. Just take enough water, the first day of this sendero the water was at Lago Gutierrez and later about 1h after the pass.

Day 6 Instead to continue on RR I went to Valle Chacabuco to discoverer also this sector. I started with the trail Lagunas Atlas. Well marked, beautiful, various views, it was the most frequented part of the park, but still I can't say it was crowded. Beautiful camp on Laguna el Cangrejo.

Day 7 The views on Lago Cochrane are really amasing. The landscapes and the vegetation are in this part different than before.

To conclude, I did not encontered really difficult places on this long hike. As I walked through all sections of the park, it allowed me to see all the divercity of the area. Except maybe 3 h in Valle Chacabuco, I did not really meet people in the park. It was a beautiful section! In Cochrane, you will find a lot of shops where you can find everything you need for next section. There are several campings ( I liked a lot Camping Lorenzo not crowded, nice place to cook with gaz, friendly owner, spots with twin protection

* '''2023-Dec-28 to 2024-Jan-04 / 8 days / RR / SOBO / Roshi'''

I hitchhiked from Chile Chico to X{35}[8.1/505] and did not see the settler at El Ciprés. It was very windy and I decided to cross the plateau at midday which was maybe not the best idea. The cross country I found very challenging and the extreme head wind across the plateau was in relentless. Nevertheless I thoroughly enjoyed the amazing landscape and the challenge, although a less windy day or starting earlier would have made it more enjoyable. I camped close to Camp 32.6/1300 at a dry spot and the next day followed the fence down to the road and walked to the Park entrance at Jenimeni. The park rangers told me of an alternative route to the start of the Avilés trail to Casa de Piedra and gave me some maps and info, they were very friendly. I paid 3000 pesos for park entry. I camped at Valle Hermoso which lives up to its name and then did a day hike to the glacial lake leaving my tent at the Refugio Valle Hermoso and following Estero Ventisquero or part of OH-CC-A {35-06} After packing up I then hiked a couple of kms down to a next campsite (there are a couple of established places to set up your tent on the way to Casa de Piedra). From Casa de Piedra I followed the Site Laguna's trail which was overgrown and difficult to follow and navigate and for me probably my least favourite part. The kms are marked but you really have to follow the GPS me there aren't many places to pitch if you don't feel like hiking anymore. I think going down into Chacobuco (which I had done previously) would have been nicer. I loved the Lago Cochrane and Tamango reserve the views and colours were amazing and the trails very easy to follow and not very busy. I got a lift into Cochrane halfway from the entrance but the road walk is not long anyway and I was not actively hitching.

Annoyances were horse flies but I got good advice to "out Zen" them and to be honest once you let it go and enjoy the views and being in nature generally they are easy to deal with. Just don't stop between 2 and 8 PM ;)
And from Jenimeni to Casa de Piedra is lots of river crossings so just accept wet feet :) and try do river crossings in the morning especially on hot days ( esp Avilés) Be safe and sensible obviously!
I would have maybe even liked to stay longer on this part of the trail, there were lots of little day hikes and alternative routes I'd have loved to explore, but I didn't have enough food. It's a beautiful part of the world, enjoy it!

* '''From 2023-01-15 to 2023-01-19 // 5 days // Hiking // NOBO // VARIANT P + OPT3 + OPT3A + RR + VARIANT J + VARIANT I + VARIANT D + Sendero Laguna Esmeralda (no variant on that one yet) + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochrane, I thought it was sad to go straight along the Lago Cochrane without checking what's going up there, and have a view over the vallee Chacabuco. So that's what I did.

I just took the beginning of Variant P, you have to pass threw a gate saying "no passar" then you have to bifurcate to the option 3 (tamango) to reach the pass between vallée tamango and chacabuco. Very nice views. Then instead of going down into vallée Chacabuco, I went straight, and continue on the sendero de las siete lagunas, wich is an old track, sometimes hard to guess, so check the GPS, but mostly easy to folllow (you still have the mark every kilometers).

Really loved the colours at the end of Lago guitterrez !

Main difficulties on the section are these horrible horseflies, and the no less terrible little spiky plants that stay sticks in your shoes and socks.

Then you reach casa de piedras. I took the variant J to don't have to put my crocs for the river crossing (yeah, I'm a lazy walker aha).

Then follow the river until the vallée hermoso, wich lives up to its name. And at this time it's just a mix between walking and crossing rivers. No need to ask, I putted my crocs on aha !

The pass up to Lago Verde was steep but the view so outstanding and the colours .. same amazing colours on Lago jeinemeni !

Didn't stayed at, but the Raleigh camp is very nice if you may choose a camp around !

Second part of NP was CC, and that was so cool ! Just have the directions and go straight to this point. Passing from mountains to others, surrounded by an unnumerable number of curious guanacos !

Hardest part is to deal with the strong wind during the ascend and at the highest point. And the descent is quite unstable, stay close to the GPX tracks, I tried to shorttrack but it led me down to slippery slopes, so I had to backtrack to find again the GPX.

Then it's 15 km down to reach Chile Chico (8km on the asphalt). Settler wasn't angry against me and saluate me kindly when I passed threw his land.

Very nice stretch. Very diversificate, great landscapes, wildlife. I loved it !

And about the entrance fees, It was not my intention, but I haven't paid for as I entered by variant P which is not a porper enter. And haven't seen any guardaparque at all.

* '''2023-Dec-30 / 1 day / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 10 C / Tom Pieper'''

I attempted this option as an alternative starting point for section 36G. Hitchhiked to the bridge of Carreterra Austral over Rio Chacabuco. I scouted rapid {35-10C} [2.3/121] from 100 m above and it looked feasible. This was not true when I approached on the river after entering just before the bridge. The rapid was impassable (late afternoon) which brought me into serious troubles. The canyon is pretty steep here and there is no way back. It was not fun to climb the steep slopes cliffs to escape the 100 m deep canyon. Its really dangerous. The rapid is pretty hard to investigate from above. I would recommend to only go later in the season and only in the morning or at least with company.

* '''2023-Dec-21 / 8 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 10 + Old and new tracks to Administration Parque Patagonia Valle Chacabuco / Tom Pieper'''

Most have been described by Kris and Stina. The plateau and the entire track is awesome. After the kind Arriero at the puesto {35} [15.8/1075] (actually its his house) I found it a little bit tricky to find a good route first but then just ascended and found a nice cross country route. Camped before the plateau. There are nice spots just before 1400 m, after that its just rocky until you descend to the Water {35} [23.9/1586]. Camp {35} [32.6/1300] was a little bit swampy. Found a better spot 300 m south. Try to be early at the road if you want to hitchhike. I was lucky and got the last car passing at 14.00 to the park at day. On the 25/12 the park entrance (but only the entrance) is always closed! Keep in mind if you come around christmas. At the park entrance you must disinfect your packrafting gear due to Didymo algae. I could not packraft lago jenimeni and verde due to wind but its still stunning. Between Water {35} [75.5/937] and Ford {35} [79.3/846] there is a approx. 3-4 steep bluff. I felt really uncomfortable with my heavy backpack as a lot of erosion happened to the steep ‘steps’. Maybe exploring an additional bush bashing route is feasible here. The ford was rather deep and could be a problem for shorter persons but I crossed in the evening, so in the morning it should be fine. Collapsed Refuge {35} [81.0/819] makes a nice camp spot. The other forts were fine. Stayed one night at Casa Piedra were I met Tobi and Fangwen and spend dinner and breakfast together the next day. CONAF first denied to packraft Rio Chacabuco due to conservation reasons, but after I mentioned that I came along all the track with my gear and rangers et sector jenimeni they were fine with me going on that river. The river is a bit unspectacular. I left at the River Out {35} [119.8/277] and I followed the old trail/road to Park Ranger, Refuge, Camp {35} [123.2/263]. There is a new picknick hut and I spend the night in there with a spectacular view of the valle chacabuco to the rims of campo hielo norte. The next day I continued the old track right side of the river (not in the GPT track files) until the bridge {35-10} [4.7/265]. Track is still in good conditions and occasionally used by the horses and guanacos there. A wonderful hike with massive views. I than continued on the CONAF trail (also not in the GPT track files) to Park administracion at Lodging $$$ {35-03} [1.9/340]. Would not recommend the restaurant. 65 $ for a 3 course meal but nothing fancy. Better spend for dinner in Cochrane. But for a post hike drink at the bar it is a lovely place and staff is kind. Also liked the museum and stayed the night at the campsite approximately 2 km away. The puma still seems to be there occasionally. Next day I hitchhiked out to Cochrane.

* '''2023-Dec-18 to 2023-Dec-23/ 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

Got a taxi for the first 8 kilometers of the roadwalk. Nobody present at the farm where the dirtroad starts to go uphill, gates easy to get through, friendly dog. We hiked just 6km and made camp by a stream.

The next day passed the puesto at km15.8, owner seemed friendly and waved. Slowly climbed up to the plateau, lots of water everywhere, very few snowpatches en route. Perfect day - not much wind. Saw lots of guanacos, hares, flamingos. Moving cross-country was ok throughout. Climbed a few barbed-wire fences. Finally found the dirt road, hiked to camp at km42.9.

In the morning hitched a ride to the park entry with a ranger. We had no online booking as we didn't know when we'd arrive, they had us make one on site. Super friendly guys, said that there is currently fewer visitors than normally at this time. The route between Rio San Antonio crossing and Camp Raleigh has been changed, partially new trail built; follows mainly the Lago Esmeralda trail. There is now a brand new hanging bridge over Rio San Antonio right next to Camp Raleigh, avoiding all the needless crossings.

After the camp there trail seems new in places, but then resorts to many rivercrossings again. The way up and down the Puertozuela La Gloria is steep and loose. After Lago Verde there are a million more crossings until you turn South. Here the trail is not much maintained, lots of fallen trees. The next 25km to Casa Piedra the trail is a bit harder to see at first but then gets much better. The guy (not a ranger) at Casa Piedra informed us that the Siete Lagos trail is closed but couldn't say why. It's definitely overgrown in parts, lots of fallen trees - need to keep track on the gpx at all times. After settler at km135.2 the trail has been recently maintained and bushes cut.

For photos and stories, you can follow us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-31 to 2023-Apr-06 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option J / Martin & Helena'''

We enjoyed this section a lot, especially with all the beautiful autumn colors in early April and basically without people until the last part before Cochrane. PN Patagonia closed some sectors on the first Monday in April, so we were the last ones to get a permission and do this section ‘legally’. Be prepared for this if you want to do this part in April or later. The problem is they close Casa Del Piedra and probably won’t let you pass to that sector from Lago Jeinemeni, where the entrance stays open for longer time. Sneaking around the guards house early in the morning or just not be specific about your plans might work if needed, its very unlikely you would meet anyone on the way from the main entrance.

Just like others we found the plateau between km 20-28 very very windy. Definitely don’t count with camping there. We found a good spot right after the secound pass, aprox. 500m down the hill where you can find a wind protected place. The descent down is a little slow but with nice views, guanacos, horses.. simply amazing. Once back on the road, it’s not too far to the PN entrance where we met a guard, but fortunately were able to get a permission as described above. The trail from Lago Jeinemeni was one of our favorites. All the fords were easy, but expect quite slow progress in the CC parts. We camped in a forrest at km 81 where is a destroyed refugio but still a good spot for camping. The rest of the trail to Casa Del Piedra is again straightforward and the landscape is somehow more dry. We didn’t cross the first bridge but went with the J option which turned out to be a good decision as we met a xx of guanacos that let us come really close to them. Closed and locked refugio still provides a good shelter, but when open it must be a perfect stop in the middle of this long section. Water was turned off as well but there is a stream behind the house.

We spent the next night on the beach of Lago Gutierrez where is enough space to build a tent - bushes around the trail are otherwise very thorny and sharp. After the ascent to the pass was a good stream of water, probably the last place to safely take unfiltered water for the next couple of kms. The trail from there leads around all the lakes and is nice and easy. We spent the night in a refugio at km 134. This one was the only one standing from what we have seen and its a good shelter when it rains, however we decided to stay in our tent anyway. You can make fire inside. Closest water is actually the one in a lake uphill, the stream on the other side of the path was very dirty and hard to gather anyway.

From there its a one more day until the finish with a good pace. We haven’t met the settler Daniel, but he’s definitely still living there. Beautiful beach of Lago Cochrane and from there we started to meet more and more tourists, doing just a day hike or some circuit around the lake - might be a good option as well in this beautiful region. The last kms felt a little long for us as we were looking forward to have some rest and enjoy all the fun in town. At the official campsite were a few people but no one asked us about anything. There are nice toilets and shower. From there its around 30m to Cochrane. Good to remember they celebrate Easter holidays in Chile as well, but we still managed to find some shop and bakery open.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''12/03/2023 - 18/03/2023 / RR SOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

Doing section 35 was due to closure of the Patagonia NP caused by heavy rains with helicopter rescue of several tourists from Valle Hermoso quite complicated, we did walk all we could in Tamango reserve and later (when it was opened) in Chacabuco valley. Be sure not to miss the museum. It's really worth it. The northern part was opened as the last one, that's why we've skipped it and hitchhiked back to Caretera. All paths in great condition. When going from Tamango to Chacabuco there's one suggestion:

It seems that on RR (35, km 141) ends new 11km long track ”Huemules” which starts at the parking in Chacabuco valley on RP (35, km 132.5). That trail might be a nice alternative to RR (mud road) leading over private land of settler David Huemul.

*8.02. - 05.03.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Chile Chico - Cochrane

We started in Chile Chico around 5 pm walking the first km on the road. After a while we got a ride to the Bahía Jara cross and camped a few hundred meters further near the street (we carried water from Chile Chico).

The ascent to the plateau is mostly easy dirtroad walking and the last CC part easy to navigate. The whole stretch on the plateau until the street at km 41.5 we had extreme wind, which made walking super tiring and nearly blew us away a few times. We found a tiny and steep, but wind protected place to set up our tent at around km 28 in the ridge dug by the river. We had to get a bit inventive to set it up and to be able to sleep properly there. There were almost no other places that were protected by the wind until you get off the plateau. As almost all previous entries say, it's better to camp off the plateau. But it's really worth doing it because you can see Guanacos and flamingos on it :)

When we reached the street at km 41.5 we were lucky and a car passed by a few minutes later, which brought us to the entrance of Parque Patagonia. We payed 15k CLP p.p. and walked to the camp Raleigh at Lago verde. There are some sheltered places to set up the tent, with an unfamiliar amount of people for the GPT. Lago Verde is beautiful though.

The next day involves lots of river- and stream crossings and it started to rain not particularly heavy, but after some hours we were completely wet. Therefore the rivercrossing at km 82.6 was really hard for Anna (1,63 m) but we managed by inertlocking our arms and doing it step by step slowly. After that the trails get really good and you can walk way faster. We camped at the unofficial camp site at km 84.7.

We had good weather the next day and the trail was really good until Lago Gutierrez. Up to the pass the trail gets a bit worse with some navigation issues, but you always find a good path again. As the others wrote there are only some tiny streams within the first km after the pass until the next Laguna, so we filled up our bottles there and camped somewhere in the forest soon afterwards once it started to rain again.

The next day there were still not too much water sources and we fetched the first water at the first Laguna which wasn't super easy to access. The trail until Lago Cochrane wasn't in bad condition neither. We also took Option L, which follows the 'regular' siete lagunas trail. The stretch from Lago Cochrane until the Conaf office at the end of the lake is absolutely amazing with great views of one of the clearest lakes in the world. We camped at km 145.7 and took a bath in the lake.

The last 8 km to Cochrane went super fast on an easy trail until Conaf and 4 km road walking to the town, so happily we could escape from the starting rain.

* '''20 to 24 of February 2023 / Silke & Hans / Loop - Fachinal -> Chile Chico'''

We didn't do the regular route, but read about an intresting loop starting in Fachinal and entering the normal route at Valley Hermoso. We then continued along the regular route to the entrance at Laguna Jeinimeni, and back to Chile Chico. The first 3 days from Fachinal we didn't see any other hikers, but it was pretty clear why. The trail was completely overgrown, full of fallen trees and a lot of the time there is no trail at all. But we managed our way through pretty good, and is was an awesome alternative to enter the Park. We recorded our GPX for others, waypointed some POI's and added some photo's to it: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/114121493

DAY 1 / 18km / +740m /
Although we heard of a bus to Fachinal from Chile Chico, nobody really appeared to know any information about it.. In the terminal the people we spoke said there were none. So we started hitchhiking the following morning. But after 3-4h of no luck we went back to the terminal, and all of a sudden there was a bus leaving at 11:30. 10.000 pesos pp, a little expensive but being unsuccesfull hitchhiking we took it. We had lunch at the turnoff, and starting hiking around 13:00. The first part is on a clear double track, but soons turns into a clear singletrack. We took the wrong intersection twice (waypointed on our GPX). We camped right before the first big river crossing. There is one steel cable, so if you bring a harness you could tiroller across.

DAY 2 / 22km / +1100m /
First up, we crossed the river. The water level didn't seem a lot lower than the day before, and at the deepest part it was about halfway our thighs. After taking another wrong intersection and backtracking, we reach the second river crossing. Again a steel cable is provided but the crossing was pretty straightforward, and the water level was only slighty above our knees. Just across the river is a an old cabin, and then short after a very new refugio (locked, used by a trekking agency). The trail gets super dense after this, climbs steeply on the mountain side and dissapears completely on numerous occasions. After the climb it flattens out, opens up and you reach a laguna. After the laguna it's the easiest to just follow the river bed down to the open valley floor (possible sheltered campsite in the forest). Follow the valley floor to another amazing laguna where you can camp near a second locked refugio.

DAY 3 / 14km / +440m /
We started the day with a side-trip to a mirador looking over the glacier high above. Takes about 1,5-2 hours return. We then packed up camp and headed for Valley Hermoso. You pass another beautiful laguna and follow the river down to the main valley. Lots of river crossing here. We camped at the Refugio Valley Hermoso, arriving earlier than expected.

DAY 4 / 15km / +200m /
Very short and easy daytrip to another laguna. About 3 hours return. We just chilled the rest of the day.

DAY 5 / 36km / +830m /
Final day along the normal route to the entrance of Laguna Jeinimeni. The day started off with some heavy rain for a couple of hours, but all the river crossings were still very doable. We arrived at the entrance around 13:00, and there was no sign of anybody leaving soon. So we decided to continue hiking untill we could find a ride along the way. We ended up hiking an extra 19km before finally a car was willing to take us along. There is an established campsite at the entrance for 3000 pesos pp.

* '''19 to 24 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO, regular route'''

Not too much to add on this one. I had a good time but the section felt long.

On the way up to the first plateau there were a few somewhat sheltered places to camp past the puesto. I camped around km 19, just before the last steep climb up to the plateau. Lots of streams around there.

None of the river crossings went above my knees, after a dry week.

I liked the detour up to the Lago Jeinemeni mirador. I also took variant I out and back to a glacier lake, I'm less sure whether that was worth it. I couldn't find any real trail, it was nice easy cross country walking through the woods followed by some open rocky ground. The glacial lake was cool, but not as spectacular as some of the ones I've seen in other sections.

I camped at the casa de piedras and took a luxurious warm shower. The ranger said you're supposed to pay at the office in valle Chacabuco, but since our route doesn't go there she just let me stay for free. She also said that sendero de siete lagunas (our route) was closed, but that I could do it since I had my gps and satellite communicator. She made it sound tough/dangerous though it turned out to be fairly quick trail.

Not much water or campsites along the siete lagunas. There's a nice campsite at the tip of the pencil lake just after the (still intact!) refugio at 133.9.

* '''2023-Feb-12-19 / NOBO / RR + Option 35-L / Ondrej and Bara / Cochrane - Chile Chico / 7.5 days'''

We really enjoyed this section! We went from Cochrane to Chile Chico. Our favourite parts were the descent through Valle Hermoso and the descent on the cross country section to Chile Chico. We spent 7.5 days on this section, taking a relaxed pace and including a half day break.

We only had to pay 9,000 CLP per person entrance fee at the Cochrane park gate (sector Tamango). We then showed the pass three days later to a ranger at Casa de Piedras and he let us go. The final checkpoint for us was the CONAF park exit/entrance at Lago Jeinemeni. The ranger there didn’t want to see our pass at all, he just asked from where we hiked (we said Casa de Piedras).

Some details: - Starting from Cochrane, the trail is easy walking up until km 144.9. As you leave Lago Cochrane, the trail is harder to follow. Fortunately this lasts only up to km 138, where the trail becomes easy to follow again. We camped next to the refuge on km133.9. The refuge has a good roof and can serve as an emergency shelter. There is no good water next to it though - we needed to climb the hill to the laguna to refill. - From roughly km 125 to km 99, the RR follows the old Siete Lagunas trail, which is not maintained anymore. Expect some fallen trees and slightly overgrown parts but the trail is beautiful and easy to navigate in general. - We took Option L to cut some overgrown road walking as recommended by others. We really liked it. - We camped next to the destroyed refuge at Laguna Guagua (km 118.3) and really loved the place - there is an amazing pebble beach at the laguna. - If you don’t want to camp at Casa de Piedras, there is a place for a small tent and a stream at roughly km 97 (-47.07463, -72.20439). We camped there. - The river crossings in Valle Aviles and Vale Hermoso were maximum to our knees. The deepest one was at Lago Verde (km 66.1). However, the river levels can change rapidly when it rains the days before - do check the weather. - We camped at the eastern shore of Lago Verde (km 61.7; campsite Raleigh) and really loved it - it has picnic tables and a spacious cooking/eating shelter. - We hitchhiked the part on the road between km 53 and 41.5. Few cars go by but the hitch was easy - we stopped the first car. - The cross country section from km 41.5 is very different from the rest - semi-desert like and lots of animals. We saw llamas, flamimgos, condors and hares (among sheep, cows and horses). - Between km 38 and 33 the path goes along a fence. We had to get over the fence once (we scrambled below it without problems). - If you are going NOBO, expect stunning views of the General Carrera Lake and Torres del Avelano when coming from the last pass (km 20.8) down to Chile Chico.

A ranger in Casa de Piedras wanted to prevent us to walk the RR NOBO from Casa de Piedras to Valle Hermoso. He claimed that route is closed now as the rivers are too high to cross. To avoid conflict, we said that we will only do the “loop trail” which is basically the RR from Casa de Piedras up until the bridge where the RR joins Option J. The Option J is then used to return back to Casa de Piedras. When doing the loop, we met several hikers in the opposite direction who confirmed that all river crossings are fine. In light of this we decided to continue on the RR and indeed the deepest ford was to our knees. Therefore if faced with a ranger claiming that the rivers are too high, we suggest to start with the loop trail (rangers should be okay with that) and get more info on the river levels from the hikers going the opposite direction.

*2023 last week January NoBo (6 days but could have very easily been done in less) / Helen and Craig + (Caro, Ali and Gabby)

>Such lovely camp sites. Beautiful places to stay the night the whole way around

>Very very easy trails. River crossing section isn't bad at all and the Valle hermosa lives up to its name.

>1st and last camp site particularly lovely

>Keep eyes peeled for pumas! I would have easily missed the sighting if I hadn't been looking the right way at the right time. They were super close. 10m or less away. Two cubs outside the refugio at casa peidra. Not where they are commonly seen in the park at all Aparently around west winds camp they are more commenly seen.

>Museum in the middle of the section worth checking out. Very visual and quite hard hitting environmental museum

> Can hitch easy enough to Chile Chico but leave last camp early in the morning. There's often a driver with a 4x4 who drives hikers in to the park and will take you back for 10,000p/p. Hikers who were a few hours behind us had no luck hitching as demand can often overtake spaces.

* '''27 of January to 1 of February 2023 / Véronica & Zach / GPT35 RR SOBO / 5.5 days '''

Route: Chile Chico - Lago Jeinimeni - Valle Hermoso - Casa de Piedra - Lago Cochrane - Cochrane

What a beautiful and diverse stretch of the GPT! I hiked half of this section with Zach, up to Casa de Piedras at km 98.9. We were unable to get a hitch out of Chile Chico, so we ended up walking the road to where the trail begins. No navigation issues, but the entire cross-country section to Río de las Nieves (waypoint at 42.7 km) is very exposed and was very windy when we crossed. We ended up camping at the water at 23.9 km, but the wind blew very strongly all night and I was worried it might take my tent. If you can, it is better to camp off this plateau unless the weather is calm. Lots of guanaco trails to follow :)

At the CONAF office at km 53.0, we each paid 9,000 clp for entry to the national park, plus 6,000 clp for passage/camping along the trail to Casa de Piedras in the Valles Hermoso and Aviles. Beautiful trail the whole way, popular and well-maintained, with cairns and markers to follow. There is an awesome shelter and camping area with picnic tables on the eastern shore of Lago Verde, at the end of Option D. In my opinion it was nicer than the popular refugio in Valle Hermoso (km 68.1) that everyone talks about.

We had no issues with fords, except the one at km 82.6 which flows into Río Aviles. It was the end of a warm sunny day, so the flow was quite high and strong. Had I been on my own I would have camped on the north side and waited till morning to cross. However, this time I was able to cross by linking arms with Zach as he is much taller than me and was more stable in the current.

At Casa de Piedras, Zach and I parted ways as he wanted to packraft down the Río Chacabuco. The ranger at the Casa told me the Sendero de las Siete Lagunas (which begins at km 99.5) was no longer maintained. This is true, there were stretches in the desertlike brush that were hard to follow, and I checked the GPS frequently. Generally it was better when the trail went into wooded areas. I also found this trail to be dry — the only water I found was the water from the lagunas and a tiny trickle about a kilometer south of the pass. Lots of spiky plants that get stuck in your socks and shoes. I took Option L to cut out some overgrown minor road walking. It's sad that this trail is being neglected and left to be swallowed up by nature, because otherwise it is quite scenic.

The horse trail that goes from the puesto of Daniel Huemul (km 143.3) to Lago Cochrane was also rough and overgrown. Everything gets easier once you reach Lago Cochrane though, nice, maintained trails all the way to Cochrane with beautiful places to camp along the lake.

* '''GPT35 / Yannic & Mirjam / 2022-Dec-13'''

Much is already detailed below, so we will keep it short

1 day: from Chile Chico to the entrance of the National Park. We camped one night before the pass at S 46.61639 W 71.81632. Water right next to the camp. Pass is very windy.

2 days: from the National Park to the Refugio. Nice refugio with small house where you can make a fire inside to dry things. From the Refugio to Casa Piedra is possible in one day. But it is a long day with many kilometres.

2.5 days: Casa Piedra to Cochrane. Leaving Casa Piedra, after a few hundred metres the trail leaves the Minor Road and enters the trail (where there is a large stone marker). The trail is officially closed and partly in bad condition. There are many fallen trees on the trail, some of it is overgrown and not completely clear. We therefore checked the GPS regularly. We took OH-TL-V{35-L}, which saves a few kilometres of (overgrown) minor road.
We spent one night at Laguna Guagua (Refugio is completely destroyed) and one at Lago Cochrane.
When we left the national park, no one was at the office. We therefore simply went through...

* '''GPT35 Variant P, Option 3, 3C, 3D / Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck / 2022-Dec-12 and 13 / 1.5 days'''

While waiting in the village Cochrane for our friends to catch up, we did a little 1.5 day hike higher up next to Lago Cochrane that we visited at least 3 times by packraft in past years. For the first time this year we waked with a light backpack without packrafting gear.

We took Variant P eastbound that slowly climbs on a gravel road to an altitude of 500 m and then continues as a panorama trail in this altitude.

Apparently, this is not authorized access to Parque Patagonia (Sector Tamango) and two gates need to be climbed but there was nobody to be seen on this route. The normal access to the park is down next Rio Cochrane and Lago Cochrane.

Nearly the entire route was scenic and worth the effort.

The settler “El Húngaro” apparently sold the land and became part of the national park. There is an open building that might be used as a refuge in case of emergency but camping is probably more comfortable.

The refuge at {35-P} [4.0/501] is collapsed but camping is pleasant on this pasture.

The trail section OH-TL-V {35-03} [0.0+5.2] is not maintained for several years making this route inconvenient to walk. The route south of both lakes is easy walking.

As long as Parque Patagonia does not challenge hikers to make a full traverse from Cochrane to Chile Chico it is prudent to take the official route which is the current regular route and pay the entrance fee near Cochrane when hiking northbound.

But should longer multi-day traverses be denied, then it might be less bothersome to take Variant P which avoids the entrance.

Packrafters can travel east and westbound on Lago Cochrane and will not pass any park entrance.

* '''Alice & Florian / 4 to 10 November-2022 / Regular Hiking Northbound'''

Here's our story of our GPT35. We really enjoyed this section, it is really diverse, beautiful landscapes and we saw heaps of animals.

As we wanted to do the trail in the northbound direction, we took the bus from chile chico to Cochrane, arriving in chile chico from argentina from the south (border o'higgins closed...). It tales 4 hours and leaves on sunday at 14 (return Monday 7 Am), Monday 16 (return Tuesday 7 AM),Wednesday and Friday 7 Am (return 16).

We took the option north of Cochrane because we were not sure if they would allow us to sleep in the tamango reserve. But, indeed you have to pass a no entry sign, a gate and a sign saying that entering the park that way is prohibited so we do not recommend it when it is written on the conaf website that it is allowed to sleep in tamango section.

We took the sendero de los huemules and slept at camp 1 waypoint. There was plenty of water at that time and a beautiful view.

After that we took the option OH-TL-V 35-P to avoid going downhill. The entry of this trail is about 150m before what is indicated on the GPT so be aware. I don't think the trail is an official one from the park so you have to fight your way through some bushes. But apart from that, it is clear. Then we joined the regular route, which since the 2022 version does follow the siete lagunas trail. You will join the siete lagunas trail at the kilometer 11 more or less. We then camped around the km 13 of the 7 lagunas trail.

We found water just before climbing at the pass at S47°06.0856' W072°17.592' and there is more at the top. However, it is true that it is drier on the other side of the pass, so if you are going Southbound, pack enough water from Lago Gutierrez to climb the pass.

We spent the third night at casa de Piedra where you have all facilities (electricity, hot shower, kitchen). Unfortunately for us they were on strike so they wouldn't allow us to go further on the trail. We did anyway as going out to jeiminini or through the road to chacabuco would take the same time.
By the way various national parks - including Torres del Paine were on strike at the moment.

The second part in the aviles valley is really clear, the trail is really nice and easy and with a lot of water available. Exiting the casa de piedra you should take the option OH-TI-V 35-J instead of the regular route, it will save you 600 m and two river crossings, and the view is similar. Starting at km 20, you will have to reduce your pace because the trail is busy with a lot of fallen trees, bushes and rocks. Between the km 22 and 23 of the valle aviles trail, the trail has been swept away by the river this winter so you have to cross the river two more times to go around. The kilometers indications disappear more or less after the pass, at km 25.

After that you enter the valle Hermoso. We camped at the waypoint 17/Camp Valle Hermoso but we do not recommend it. It was really small and close to the river, so if there is a sudden level rise because of heavy rain or a flooding because of a glaciar outburst (GLOF), you might get wet... Better sleep st the small caban near km23 if you don't think you will reach the refugio in valle Hermoso.

Once you reach Lago Verde, follow the GPT track and not the trail that leads to the lake, or you will have to turn back. After the pass it's more river crossings but you can save some kilometers in the river bed by taking the option OH-TI-V 35-E and then OH-TI-V 35-D until the rio jeimenini (the first part of the option OH-TI-V 35-D does not exist anymore). We did not have any trouble to cross the Rio between the 2 lakes even though we were in the middle of the afternoon. It was about thigh deep for me but I'm tall.

After that it's really easy to the Parc entrance. We went back to Chile Chico walking on the road instead of taking the cross country option, because0 there were still snow on the mountain. The first part is still pretty until the intersection, once you enter the valley of the Rio it is a bit more monotonous. Halfway there is an access to an annex of the national park, to go see the Cueva de las manos and valle lunar.

* '''Adrien Kunzli / 31-Oct-2022-04-November-2022 / Regular Hiking Northbound'''

All rivers crossing are easy to pass at this time of year. One tricky passage on the snow at the entrance of lago verde, very steep, but it was to avoid walking in the lake (frozen feet early in the morning).

No guards at the entrance at Tamango so i didnt pay the fee but didnt get my pass. Tamara gently gave me one at the camping of casa del piedra (apparently if i didnt have this pass i could not be admitted at Jeinimeni.) At Jeinimeni pass, again, nobody. So i were to the houses near and finaly find the guy. He took my pass and i get no fee in this NOBO direction.
Nice shortcut after the bridge of Rio de las Nieves (S 46° 47.274', W 071° 54.665') that can avoid you a little bit of the 4x4 unfinshing road and get you directly into the heart of this amazing and beautifull last part. So:
In front of the end of the bridge, you go up the big hill and go diagonally (or directly if you feel better) to join the path (pretty wild) of the gps (S 46° 45.843', W 071° 54.359'). Small stretches of paths are drawn rather well along this shortcut.

Not much good water between the bridge (brown water) and the puesto but the the puesto's water is of much better quality.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''GPT 35: Parque Patagonia/ Exploration Route via Valle Maullín Grande/ 2022 March-12/ 4 days / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald '''

We hiked from Maullín Grande to Cochrane by chance. I always wanted to do the stretch from Chile Chico to Cochrane, but we had just 4 days left… When we hitchhiked northbounded from Villa O’Higgins, we luckily got picked up by Pascual Diaz, who is a experienced Mountain Guide (company Kalem) and took us all the way to his refugio in Maullín Grande. He also explained us, how to reach Cochrane on time while doing that crossing. The next day he took us to the end of the Road, where we started hiking around midday (-46,80390, -72,42001). It was a easy walk to the end of the Valley where we camped (-46,87872, -72,34138). The following day was hard, but we went up to the pass (1430m) in perfect sunshine. At (-46,87234, -72,30906) you will face a waterfall in a steep canyon. We recommend to walk on the left side (northwest) through the forest until you meet the riverbed again. The other side is also possible (we went there), but you have to climb higher in difficult terrain. From that point you can easily do a cross country walk up to the pass, where you have to cross the Glaciar (without cracks). It was absolutely stunning! Going down to the laguna is quite steep. I would not do it in bad weather conditions. When you meet the laguna, you can either walk on the left or right side. Both options are not easy. We crossed on the right (southern) side, which is ok in good weather conditions. There is one river crossing in between, which could be impossible with more water. Now we think it would have been easier to walk on the left (northern) side, although we would have had needed to cross the river before and after the laguna. Packrafting is an option as well, but since it only 1.5 km we don’t think it is worth it. Camped in a forest close to the regular trail dry and save. All in all we recommend this option to experienced hikers in good weather conditions. The hike to Cochrane was hard, because we had just 2 days for 80km. So we hitchhiked to the museum of Parque Patagonia and we even saw a puma at the Westwind Campsite! It seems like this puma shows up there regularly. I waited for that moment almost 5 months. My dream came true on my very last evening in nature. Thank you Patagonia for this great gift. 🙏

* '''2022-Feb / Packrafting / Mikhail Bogdanov&Masha Ovchinnikova'''

See for Rio Chacabuco and picturesamd discussion of the canyons.

https://web.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1319249015247648/

* '''Christmas2021 / GPT 35, NOBO, participants Janna & Matthias, dec 2021, duration 6 days from Cochrane to Conaf center at Lago Jeinimeni, then hitchhiked to Chile Chico'''

As recommended by a friend we opted for the following route through the Parque Nacional de Patagonia which is highly recommendable (first two days mainly GPT variants and options, afterwards GPT regular routes. There are several marked senderos in the beginning as 5 Los Huemules, 8 los Pumas, 7 los Guanacos, sendero 9, sendero Lagunas Altas etc.) as you can see in our attached tracking file.

All in all the trails were easy to find, some seemed to be still unhiked this year. To enter the park from Cochrane we had to pass a prohibition sign and climb over a no entrar gate. We didn't meet anyone on the first day, the settler didn't seem to be around. The following days we met two to three other hikers per day, but no rangers until the end at Conaf Center near Lago Jeinimeni, where we easily paid the park fees in arrears (8000 pp park entrance fee and an additional 6000 pp overnight stays in the park). We deliberately skipped the Conaf center in Valle Chacabuco on the advice of our friend.

Good to know:
- There is no water anymore at S 47.198557, W 72.474927 near the camping site but instead at S 47.203460, W 72.480747 and S 47.179332, W 72.465807
- There were many lagoons on our day 3 that weren't visibly well marked neither on our apps nor on the Garmin GPS.
- All the marked refugios along the trail are heavily damaged except Casa de Piedra
(closed on the 24th of dec) and Refugio Valle Hermoso (where we could even dry our
soaked shoes from the many river crossings next to the fireplace).
- From the refugio Valle Hermoso we did a side trip to the first glacier lake in the Valle
Estero Ventisquero without all the luggage.
- The río Jeinimeni water level was up to our waists and strong (note it had rained the
night before). According to others it was supposed to be knee-deep.
- Hitchhiking from Conaf center Jeinimeni to Chile Chico is possible when camping or day guests are leaving. As we arrived later in the afternoon we spent an extra night there.
- The supermercado sur in Chile Chico sells gas.

Track files and waypoints: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-98Ou9jk0porCVRp7CSFZ-KciXQ2PBzD

*'''30 Nov RR 5 days SOBO Frank'''

From Chile Chico I got the Bahia Jara bus & got off at the junction, saves a 6KM roadwalk. Walked 2KM up the road then on trail to the high plateau. The settler before the pass wasn't there but his dogs were a bit territorial so I avoided the puesto. I went across the high plateau & camped a bit before the second puesto in one long day. Camp marked on track file below the pass was not very good (boggy & sloping) so I continued down to camp near the stream. The second puesto is above the RR & not visible from it. Camping on the high plateau definitely not recommended. It is very exposed & the wind can & will knock tents. On day 2 I got to CONAF, they said a puma had been there every day the week before. Continued with many river crossings to the hut. There are trails marked with ribbons on LHS of the river SOBO, they go in on small loops which avoid some of the river crossings. Nearing the hut there is a stream flowing into the lake. At the lake it was too deep to cross. Bush bashed for about 40 metres to reach the ford. Camped outside the hut. Several river crossings on the third day. The double crossing is the crux. I avoided it by going over the bluff on LHS of river with a bit of tree bashing but I don't recommend that. The bluff descent is cliffed off with only a narrow breach where you can downclimb on trees. The breach is not obvious from above. Better to ford the river - it was running high but I met several hikers who had crossed it. Got to Casa de Pidera in 1 long day from the hut. You can cook in the Casa (they have a gas stove, electricity & showers) but have to camp outside. There are some trees to shelter from the wind. On the fourth day I started walking Sendero de Siete Lagunas (SSL) but I was using the 2019 track file which doesn't show the SSL. It had not been walked much recently & the route was not obvious. At the lake I lost the SSL in guanaco tracks. I continued around the lake & walked out about 2KM to the road. The descent to the road was cliffed off but I found a way down in a gully. Then I walked out the road past a meadow where hundreds of guanaco were grazing. Past the meadow I went in left on a side road to rejoin the RR. On the fifth day I walked past Daniel Huemul's puesto & was lucky to meet Daniel who was riding out & he showed me the way. He said the direct RR which goes right from the puesto is now overgrown & disused. Instead we went out to the left. There is a small road which goes in a loop & turns towards Lago Cochrane but with his directions I was able to shortcut it. I paid 15,000 CLP for entry & camping at CONAF Lago Jeinemeni & they didn't charge me anything at Casa de Piedra.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

*'''2020-Mar-18 , Tyler Wood, 7 Days Sobo'''

Amazing section to end my season with. I got a couple short hitches on the way up past Chile Chico. Up past the last puesto are some great areas to camp along a big boulder field. Maybe 2 km more. Beautiful and surrounded by Guanacos. Plenty of water too. Up near the top of the pass was very cold, but very beautiful, and even saw a bunch of flamingoes in the lakes.

On the way down the pass I tried to find the fore-mentioned route to the puesto to take the road the rest of the way down and didn’t really have any luck...found my way anyways and camped down by Rio sucio under a willow.

Into Jenimeni I got another little hitch. Once you cross the deeper river by Laguna esmeralda just keep those water shoes on, you’ll be crossing many more times.

I also was told by a ranger that sendero siete Lagunas wasn’t habilitado, but went for it anyways. Water is Not after Laguna Gutiérrez for a while, so make sure you fill up around there. After the pass there are a few more small
Streams to fill up.

The road walking to Tmango reserve seemed to take forever, but Walking/camping by Lago Cochrane was all worth it. At puesto Huemul Is when I got my first advice that the corona virus was a big deal. The woman told me there were 3 confirmed cases in Cochrane, I went there and booked my tickets straight home. Hasta le vista baby!!!

* '''2020-February-08 / 7 days / Southbound'''

Long and beautiful section. No major difficulties. Great diversity. Without hitchhiking, it took me 173 kilometers.

1st part / 2 days / Chile Chico to Div 217
At the beginning of the cross country, valley full of Guanacos. I camped just after the puesto, about 2 kilometers after the beginning of the cross country, before the pass, where there are still rocks to protect from the wind.
As related in previous reports, after camp 279, you will stumbled upon a fence. Go on the East along the fence, cross it, and you will find a trail to the next Puesto and then the trail goes down from the puesto to the dirt road. You will avoid cross country this way.

2nd part / 2,5 days to Casa de Piedra
Popular part. Groups of hikers along the way. 8000CLP entrance fee + 6000 CLP for 2 nights sleeping inside the park.

3rd part / 2,5 days / Sendero de las 7 lagunas
After Casa de Piedra, I followed the GPS regular route which took me to the beginning of the Sendero of 7 lagunas. CONAF said it was not "habilitado" but it is actually well marked. The good thing is that there will be no hikers on this part, except when you approach the end, along the lago Cochrane. The trail is very different from the GPS tracks but no difficulties to find it. So, don't worry not having the GPS tracks.
At S 47º08.015' W 72º18.948', there is a nice place to camp and also, the trail will merge with the optional route OH-TL-V@35-02F-#001 You can then follow this track and then go back to the Regular Route to reach Cochrane.

* Martin Lizondo / 28-Jan-2020 / Regular Hiking Southbound

The section took me 6 days. Some tips:

The first part from Chile Chico has a +20 km cross country walk. The wind is extremly strong and the route very high, with no forest protection. I recommend spending the first night behind the trees of El Ciprés (the settler Orlando Vazquez allows people to pass and is very kind) or near to the puesto at the end of the minor road at 46º 36' 5,3" S, 71º 48' 45,05" O (Miguel Pacheco is very kind too). Enough water all along the route.

The Jeinimeni section of Parque Patagonia is very easy and well marked. Entrance to foreigners costs CLP 8000 plus 6000 if spending the night. There’s a shelter with place for fire and tents after 18 km.

Valley Aviles to Casa de Piedra is also easy and beautifull, with many free camping spots. Casa de Piedra costs CLP 8000 per night.

The rest of the gps track is very different from the actual trail, called “Sendero de las Siete Lagunas”. I recommend taking this route instead of the old gps track, as it’s very well maintained. At Lago la Pepa ( 47º 7' 45,19" S, 72º 18' 41,54" O ) the trail crosses an old overgrown minor road, which coincides with the gps track and takes to Puesto Huemul (47º 11' 25,31" S, 72º 26' 6,98" O). If going to the left, you’ll reach the puesto, if going up to the right you’ll end the official “Sendero de las Siete Lagunas” near to the main park center. Other hiking options are possible from that point, but the regular route to Puesto Huemul is the shortest.

From Puesto Huemul, the trail goes down near to the lake Cochrane through Sendero “Coigües” and “Carpinteros”. Well marked and signed, this trails will take you to the start of Tamango section, very near to Cochrane.

* '''2020-Jan-27 / GPT35 New Route: Lago General Carrera (Fachinal) to Parque Patagonia (Lago Jenimeni or “Casa de Piedra”) / 5 days / Meylin Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck'''

Based on a recommendation from Tobias Hellwig W and Daniel Mahn Borkowsky we investigated a new route that I did no had on my radar until a few weeks ago. This route provides an alternative access from the southern coast of Lago General Carrera into the Parque Patagonia and is of interest for packrafters and hikers.

The route is a traditional animal trail that was used by the settlers of Fachinal to drive cattle to a large summer pasture that is now part of Parque Patagonia (sector Jenimeni). With the enforcement of keeping domestic animals out of the protected park area a 5 km trail section inside Parque Patagonia lacks maintenance but is still quite well traversable for GPT standards. Apart from this short trail section most of the route is very scenic and nice to walk but practically unknown. Only one tourism company runs guided hiking trips along this route about once per months. Apart from this occasionally use the full traverse seams not to be done anymore.

Due to lack of trail markings we spend about one extra day in searching and following the poorly maintained 5 km trail section but with our GPS record other hikers should struggle much less than we did and will be able to walk in 4 to 5 moderate hiking days from Fachinal at the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to “Casa de Piedra” in the center of Parque Patagonia in the Valle Chacabuco.

We hiked the route northbound as we considered the option to cross Lago General Carretera at its shortest narrow by packraft. Here the lake is only 3.2 km wide but we finally did not cross this rather dangerous lake due to suboptimal wind conditions.

Fachinal to Rio Aviles River Crossing:

A well maintained “cattle highway” leads from Fachinal from the road bridge of Rio Aviles along the western/southern side of Rio Aviles to the limit of Parque Patagonia. This roughly 20 km long trail section gets regularly cleaned with chain saws to facilitate access to the pastures along Rio Aviles for free-rooming cattle. Most of the trees that have fallen on the trail have been cut to keep the trail easily traversable. Some hikers might find the “pointless up and down” annoying but this trail was created by men that move on horses that did not had to ascent and descent themself. About 1 km before crossing the Rio Aviles two signs indicate the limit of Parque Patagonia (Sector Jenimeni) and ban access for unauthorized people and domestic animals (without providing any clue who might be authorized and who not ;-). From the park limit the trail descents steep to Rio Aviles but remain well maintained to ford.

This trail section requires two possibly demanding river crossings that can become impossible during snow melt in spring, after heavy rain or on the afternoon or evening of hot days (melting water from glaciers!). To keep the route traversable in such circlesumstances the tourism company has installed in both locations steel ropes (to cross these two rivers hooked up in harness to the steel rope without even touching the water).

Rio Aviles River Crossing to the Pass (1150 m above Sea Level):

After the river crossing the trail condition suddenly changes. Fallen trees don’t get cut anymore and undergrowth is not cleaned by machete. It’s mainly the remaining path on the ground that indicates the former animal trail. Advance is slow and in various locations care must be taken to not loose the trail. Here you will need to climb over fall trees and push occasionally through dense vegetation until reaching an altitude of 950 m. At this altitude the forest floor opens up (no dense undergrowth any more) and the trail disappears completely. Here walking becomes easy again. Walk the following kilometer through the open forest following roughly the GPS track until reaching the end of the forest and the small lake after the 1150 m high pass.

An advise for northbound hikers:

Finding the first signs of the trail in the open forest was a struggle as we had no information where exactly the trail starts to descent. I searched at least 3 or 4 hours in a 400 m wide and 1200 m long section of open forest till I found a first old machete mark on a tree that indicated the location of the trail. Carefully searching and following similar marks I finally found the descending trail.

Searching northbound we lost the trail again when reaching Rio Aviles at the bottom of the valley and searched half a day for the correct continuation. A well visible and noticeably used trail next to Rio Aviles leads directly to an suitable river ford but from there a well maintained trail continues 1 km in the wrong direction (upstream). Only after bushbashing 1 km along the river shore downstream we recognized with surprise a second river ford (now the correct river ford) which connects to the well maintained trail section in the correct direction. In hindsight we understood that the well maintained trail simply continues upstream along Rio Aviles and that this trail crosses twice the Rio Aviles. Due to a partially not evident trail section on the other side of we did not recognize this when hitting this trail on the bottom of the valley and took the wrong direction to the wrong river ford.

Now hikers with our GPS record and a GPS should not struggle to find and follow this trail as we did.

Pass (1150 m above Sea Level) to Valle Hermoso Refugio:

After leaving the forest at the 1150 m high pass the most scenic part of this route starts. A roughly 15 km long cross country route leads over pastures and river sediments past 3 lakes and two glaciers to the Refugio Valle Hermoso. Occasionally signs of a trail are visible but due to the open landscape a continuous trail neither exists nor is needed.

Near the Refuge Valle Hermoso this route connects with regular route that leads along Valle Aviles (diffrent river with the same name!) to “Casa de Piedra” in the center of Parque Patagonia.

Access to Trail Head at Fachinal:

There are multiple buses per week from Chile Chico to Puerto Tranquilo on the Carretera Austral that pass Fachinal.

Monday and Friday runs a subsidized bus from Chile Chico to Fachinal and back to Chile Chico (One round trip in the morning and a second one in the evening).
8:30 leaving Chile Chico
9:30 in Fachinal
11:00 returning to Chile Chico
17:30 leaving Chile Chico
18:30 in Fachinal
20:00 returning to Chile Chico

If you wish to cross Lago General Carrera to continue hiking in the Cordillera Avellano North of the lake speak to Carloz Amoros in Fachinal (mobile: +56 9 76267029 / price around 30‘000 CLP) or Pascual Diaz de Mallin Grande.

* '''2020-January 23 / Oreste Marquis/ Northbound : 8 days '''

Going northbound. I followed the route until the second settler at the puesto Tejuela. From there, until the optional route @35-02e#001,
I could not find the approximate trail in the files. I manage to find another one which is call siete Lagunas. It is really easy to follow and really beautiful! I find it near km 18 and keep walking on it until km 38. It is the end of it and is at the campground near Lago Gutiérrez. For more informations go reed Martin post in recent alerts and suggestion. I met him on the trail and he updated the wikiexplora before me. From the beginning to Casa Piedra took me 3 days. Then I hiked to the end of the reserve in an other 3 days. Lots of rivers to cross but felt pretty safe for all of them even the one higher between Lagos Jeinimeni and Verde. The cross country part the next day was my favorite of the hole trip! Awesome views, a lot of wildlife, just need to check a little bit more the gps! Last day, I headed to Chile Chico without any problem. Overall, I love it! Enjoyed it as much as GPT40.

* '''2020-January / Matthieu / Northbound : 7.5 days "tranquilito"'''
Incredible trekk, lots of different type of views and soil, my favorite since El Chalten. Money required for passing by the reserves !!
I hitchhiked 10 km on the road to Casa Piedra, and 12 km between Jeinemini qnd the beginning of the trail that goes north in the mountain to join Chile Chico.

'''1st part : Reserve Tamango''' : 6000 CLP the entry
I took the old "Huemul trail" in the Tamango reserve, taking the left route at the "Camp 284" It is an old trail for 4x4, so very easy, and closed to vehicles now.

'''2nd part : The road to Casa Piedra :''' the rangers I crossed were all agreed that it was not permitted to camp aside of the road (so the information is different that in Nov). One officiql camping at the end of Tamango reserve (WestWind) and one at Casa Piedra 26 km after. 8000 CLP each. At Westwind (not verified, only inforñqtions for guardaparques): no accomodations, only baño. At Casa Piedra . real big house, hot shower, electricity, place to cook.

'''3rd part : Reserve Jenemeni :''' Entry 8000 CLP. For the camping, the ranger told me that it was permitted to camp wherever I wanted, so the information differs too from november. And at the exit, I told the ranger about my "savage" camping in the conversation, and he didnt tic at all, so no stress. The rangers are very nice !
Good trekk, easy to follow. One very good refuge in the valle Hermoso where fire is possible. a more open refuge/camping site by the east shore of Lago Verde.
Many river crossing, all safe except one, before the Laguna Esmeralda. Strong current, and people choose many different way with different profundness. Better do it in the morning, being a glaciar river (I could effectively compare between late in the afternoon and the morning and it is very different).

'''Last part, to Chile Chico by the mountain :''' Amazing views, totaly different climate, more dry and with only bushes.
At the beginning of the Cross country after the 4x4 road, I would advise to go a few meters west from the GPS tracks, to the east side of the river. There is effectively a fence on the west ridge, and a good trail on the east ridge that can avoid you the difficult crossing of many bushes, and that goes directly to the puesto.
Two puestos, The 135 of metal being used by the locals (real bed inside), so just putted the tent outside. The second one 134 is actually a real house. Two mens were here when I arrived, working with the animals. I could put the tent near the house and take water from the sink outside. Many dogs, all nice.

* '''Mum, Sis and I / Southbound / 11 days '''

Well. What an interesting and varied section. Also the longest walk I think we'd all done. It took us 11 days in the end with a couple of longer side trips. Interestingly, when we emerged from the park it was closed, there was martial law in effect, a curfew in place. Borders closed. Only a week to get back to Santiago to catch the last flights back to Australia... Anyway. We're heading back now. Got temperature tested as we reentered Chili Chico this morning. Waiting for the boat across the lake mañana in la mañana. No buses out of town. Enough rambling...

As always, thanks to the others before us that have taken the time to comment and provide feedback. Here's my two cents.

Firstly here are some landmarks to make it easier for others to orient themselves:

El Ciprés
http://ge0.me/oGvL0ey6_7/El_Ciprés
ge0://oGvL0ey6_7/El_Ciprés
Casa Piedra
http://ge0.me/4GvJGSxqPH/Casa_Piedra_%28Stone_House%29
ge0://4GvJGSxqPH/Casa_Piedra_%28Stone_House%29
Westwind
http://ge0.me/wGvC_gnJaX/Westwind
ge0://wGvC_gnJaX/Westwind

Camping in Chile Chico:
El Carro is supposed to be the cheapest place to stay in town. Though if you want a hot shower it's the same as Kon-aiken next door. We stayed at neither so can't really comment, but there were a lot of people staying at Kon-aiken and next to none at El Carro which might be indicitive of value for money or just the fact they are a little closer to the centre of town.
El Carro however was the only one willing to look after some things for us.
We also visited a hostel, but the owner was unfortunately very rude.

El carro
4k frío
5k caliente
1k por día por mochila

Kon-aiken
5k pp / noche
No baggage service

Part 1: Chili Chico to Jeinemeni
In the end we decided to cache things in the bushes just outside of town. Mum and my sister got a lift to the Bahía Jara cruz whist I was caching. Unfortunately I had to walk all the way to El Ciprés where my mum and sister had been enjoying a nice conversation with Orlando Vazquez who allowed us to pass but emphasised the dangers and didn't really recommend crossing.
Passing through the gate a couple of utes were exiting. Apparently there is a new mine up in the mountains and they didn't really want us to walk up. They admitted they just worked there.
Turn off the main rd that assumably heads to the mine about here: -46.57775, -71.82666
Goucho Miguel Pacheco passed us on the way up herding some cattle and we talked to him at the puesto for a while. We also gave him one of the Australian coins we'd been carrying around. He seemed to believe it was everyone's right to pass. "People pass through here all the time "."Just yesterday a lad passed by "."It's the shortest route across the mountains "
Anyway. We camped in the rocks just outside the park boundaries (as mentioned by??).
We then camped two nights up on the windy plateau. Our side trip to Valle Lunes was amazing. I'd recommend it. But be careful with wind. Oh and did anyone mention the guanacos?
Unfortunately I think the water wasn't very clean on this part. Sheep, cows, guanacos, birds... It's the first time in Chile I've wished I took my water filter along. We had some sore stomachs.
Dropping down the other side we hit the mentioned fence (about here -46.72574, -71.90211). We crossed, but would recommend following it to the left until you get to a corner. I'm not sure where it starts, but there is a trail running on the outside of the fence to the puesto. We then followed a sheep trail that ran high on the left (east) of the valley. Very good but it bypassed Las Abutardas completely and seemed to be heading towards Laguna los Flamencos instead. We ended up cutting down to the road where León passed us heading into town, a little confused why we hadn't taken the 'proper trail'.
We camped the night at the Río El Sucio camp. Not really recommended.
We walked the road and stayed at Río Las Vacas for a bit which is at the border of the park and a nicer place to camp. (There is a good stream between the two).

Part 2: Jeinemeni to Casa Piedra
It was 8k to enter the park (for foreigners) and an additional 6k for camping in Valle Hermoso. The section to the refugio (-46.84092, -72.14078) was very nice. This is the only shelter still standing. The others included in the track files were not really enterable.
Heading to the refugio (where everyone seems to camp) you cross the small ankle deep creek exiting Laguna Esmeralda and then the deeper river between Lago Verde and Jeinemeni. This might have been the trickiest but when we crossed it wasn't really bad. We then had two more smaller crossings before passing through Portezuela La Gloria (1100m) to cross Estero Ventisquero and the other river running down the main valley.
The next day we did the popular side trip to the glacier in this valley: -46.80924, -72.20116
We wondered if it was the same way Jan et al entered recently?
From the refugio to Valle Avilés there are no compulsory river crossings if you stick to the somewhat scrubby trail to the left (south) of the valley. The first crossing we did was Río Avilés shortly followed by the tributary. So only 8 crossings (wet feet) on the RR.

We walked from the refugio to Casa Piedra in a day. It was closed so we camped on the other side of the Rd.

Part 3: Casa Piedra to Cochrane
From casa piedra we took the aforementioned Sendero las Siete Lagunas. It is not it the track files but indeed very well marked with numbered markers every kilometre. I'll upload a kml with the markers I recorded as well as some of the water bodies I sketched.
After the stream running into Lago Gutiérrez there wasn't much water until Lago la Pepa.
You will briefly intersect with a road here: -47.14006, -72.37138. The road seems to run down to Puesto Tejuela coinciding with OH-TL-V@35-02F-#001 which I think is incorrectly labelled as TL. Part of RH-TL-I@35-99.0+30.0 too should be marked as MR. You'll intersect this road before taking it down to Lago Cochrane.
We passed the occupied dwelling (Daniel Huemul?) but the man wearing a shirt emblazoned with Parque Patagonia seemed afraid to approach us (another hint the world had gone Corona crazy). He wouldn't let us take the RR so we followed the road for a bit before taking another newly made trail also not in the track files.
Everything after that was very easy to follow.
Everything was abandoned at the entrance and the gate locked. People avoided us on the streets and covered their face when passing us.
We grabbed some needed food (we were very short after 11 days!) and got on the WiFi. Wow! How things had changed! Martial law in place and a curfew in place, we slept under a bridge with some Colombians and caught a bus back to Chili Chico in the morning. Waiting for the boat across the lake tomorrow now.

Links to files :
Kilometre markers: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fuzt4xacxjjvvg4/kms.kmz?dl=0
Water bodies: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uz1ei95s1913xvb/water.bodies.kmz?dl=0
Other planning:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uk9ym56gufwk4zq/planning.kmz?dl=0

* '''2019 Dec / Olrik/ Northbound '''

Amazing part of the GPT, from Cochrane ou enter in the Tamango national reserve and pay 6000CLP for the entrance. We took several trails to get to Valle Chacabuco : Las Aguilas, Las Lengasm Los Condores, Laguna Altas. Great views. We had a snow storm at the pass though. There you end up in a paid campground. From there we walked the dirt road to Casa Piedras in Valle Chacabuco, it was beautiful with lots of guanacos. Then we took the Las Aviles sendero. We camped near the first river crossing as it was late and waited for the morning to cross. It is normally not possible to wild camp in the park but the guardaparque told us to camp there if the river crossing is not sage. The rest of the trail is easy to follow next to the river. There is a pass then you descend to Valle Hermoso and to lago Jeinimeni. It was just gorgeous and easy to follow with great weather. Be aware of the numerous river crossings. In lago Jeinimeni there is a paid campground. From there you can hitchhike, walk, or pay a transportation at the entrance of the park (15000Clp pp) but I'm not sure if this is a regular thing. We ended up hitchhiking to get to Chile Chico.

* '''2019-Nov-28/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 5.5days/ Northbound / Regular Hiking Route (Cochrane to Chile Chico) with OH-32-2-#003/'''

This section might have been our favorite out of the whole Group H, where the diversity of the landscape was our favorite part (also including weather and trail conditions). The NP was entered at Tamango just outside of Cochrane. Registration is mandatory, the entrance fee is at 8000 CLP. The ranger asked us to explain our route and since the regular Hiking route did not seem familiar to them, they told us to take the optionals route going north over the pass to WestWinds campground and then do the road walk Eastwards.
The pass had some snow patches on the Southern side but was easy to traverse. At the Valley Chacabuco (another entrance to the national park) we got asked for our permits and the route we plan on taking. We heard different information on if it is allowed to camp at the road or not (there were signs that told us not to do it but the ranger said it is okay). After the roadwalk, we passed another ranger station where we had to register and sign a responsibility form telling that we plan to leave at Lago Jeinimeni (and telling that we're only allowed to stay at designated campsites). The hike from there is extremely beautiful and super diverse, the trail well maintained. The rivers were at higher flow but all fords were doable.
We camped next to the Refugio because we still weren't sure about the camping rules (other hikers we met said they were told that it's okay to camp everywhere along the river). Leaving the NP at Lago Jeinimeni was straightforward, but it's mandatory to check out at the rangers office. The cross-country section after the road walk was a bit slow on the way up due to many bushes and hilly terrain. We found a nice trail next to the fence leading up to the puesto when going up the ridge on the Eastern side. From the puesto we took a short steep uphill after which the terrain became more open and easier to travel on. It was very windy and snowy in the mountains, which made it difficult to walk at times and it felt like the temperatures were rather low.
The lagoons on the way up are filled with exciting birds (flamingos!) and guanacos are running around on the whole plain. Once reaching the plateau we headed down in a pretty straight line which was easier than the uphill until we reached the road

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*2024/25 Michael and Kasia
Chile Chico has two main supermarkets, but also lots and lots of smaller shops. J&D gave a 15% discount if you paid in cash (discount does not extend to gas canisters). We found had in a few places. The ATM is BancoEstado, just off the main plaza. There is a Chilexpress for sending and receiving things.

*Chile Chico has two supermarkets. Sell gas.

*2024/25 Michael and Kasia
There are more than a dozen stores in Cochrane. Rojita a block off the square is the most popular, and generally had good prices. We stayed at Ana Luz, 15.000 pp for a room. She also has one cabaña. It is possible to use the kitchen there for simple cooking. We also had a pair of boots repaired at the zapatero and had a very good experience. It was fast, high quality work and not expensive. He also repairs backpacks.

Regarding planning ahead for Villa O'Higgins, the cash thing is no longer such a problem. All six of the grocery stores and the hardware store there accepted credit cards. We were also able to pay for our accommodation and for the boat with a card as well. There is still no ATM, so it would be smart to have some cash (not all the panaderías take cards for example, and sometimes network issues prevent card machines from working), but it shouldn't be necessary to bring a huge stack of cash.

*Cochrane is a decently sized town with three mid-range supermarkets. The largest one, which is a grocery and department store, is located adjacent to the town square. There are many lodging and restaurant options. Be sure to withdraw an ample amount of money here because most of the businesses in the next town, Villa O’Higgins, only take cash and there is no ATM.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
'''2025/26'''
Cochrane:
* Zapatero La Gotera [-47.254119,-72.576216]
* Bulk food store (good for nuts, seeds, oats, etc. in the amount you need): Tienda al Grano [-47.254390,-72.574136]

* '''Michael & Kasia 2025/26'''
If traveling NOBO and interested in a resupply drop at Casa Piedra, you can contact Jorge Garrido (+56 933 765 989), he prefers contact through WhatsApp. Jorge runs the concession that operates the four campgrounds in the southern part of PN Patagonia (Tamango, West Wind, Casa Piedra, and Alto Valle) as well as the bus that does a daily round from Cochrane to Alto Valle and back, stopping at West Wind, the museum, and Casa Piedra along the way. We got his number from the tourist information center in the plaza in Cochrane. He was very friendly and agreed to take an "encomienda" for us for 5.000 CLP. We got an empty box from the grocery store and made sure it was securely taped shut with our names, the date for the delivery, and the location clearly written on multiple sides. We gave the package and the money to the bus driver, meeting him in the plaza near the tourist info center on a pre-arranged, just before 09:00 when he leaves to start the round. When we arrived in Casa Piedra a week later, the package was already there. Jorge happened to be there that day and said he had it left a day early just in case we arrived earlier than we expected, which was very thoughtful. Just be aware if using this option that Casa Piedra DOES NOT allow you to leave trash, so you have to pack out everything. They will let you leave the cardboard box without the tape since they make fires regularly.

=Transport to and from Route=

*2025 / MiaimZelt
Buses (starting at Terminal de buses in Chile Chico) that enable you to skip the first 7-8km of Roadwalk when hiking SoBo:

Turismo Tramal. Chile Chico - Bahia Jara. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 8:30 & 16:30.
WhatsApp: +56 9 7538 0178

Buses Interlagos from Chile Chico to Puerto Rio Tranquilo: Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday 9:00.

* From Cochrane there are buses to Casa de Piedra leaving at 9:00 which would allow you to skip the first few days north bound or allow you to exit from Casa de Piedra instead of hiking all the way to Cochrane when coming south bound.

* We got a taxi ride to Casa de Piedra to shorten the section somewhat with Claudio (+56992193995, @turismocg_cochrane on Instagram) who was really nice, knew lots about the history and nature, answered all the questions we had and spoke perfect English too. So if you need a driver, he'd be a good option!

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023-Mar-31 to 2023-Apr-06 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option J / Martin & Helena

PN Patagonia closed some sectors on the first Monday in April, so we were the last ones to get a permission and do this section ‘legally’. Be prepared for this if you want to do this part in April or later. The problem is they close Casa Del Piedra and probably won’t let you pass to that sector from Lago Jeinemeni, where the entrance stays open for longer time. Sneaking around the guards house early in the morning or just not be specific about your plans might work if needed, its very unlikely you would meet anyone on the way from the main entrance.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT35 - RN Lago Jeinimeni]]

=Images=
[[file:Greater Patagonian Trail (7).jpg|left|GPT35 - RN Lago Jeinimeni]]

GPT33H (Torres de Avellano)

2026-03-30T21:20:10Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/2026 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
The GPT manual has an extensive description of this route and all its options.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/2026==

'''Section 33 | 1/28 - 2/2 | 5 Days + 1 zero | SOBO | OH 3B+ RR | Graham + Gabe'''

Actually right now at Puerto Avellano, waiting out wind. But we finish tmrw 🫡.
Beauty Section. Had great weather, till today.
Took bus at 10am from Cerro Castillo to start of Option 3B. Easy road walking, Hacer dedo and got some information from driver.
2nd day we arrived at Camp 61.1/1137. Beautiful camp, view is good and nice beach, decent wind protection.
Did pass— beauty, followed notes regarding descending along boulders. However… at one point we ended up on a slab and Gabe slipped. He slid down the slab and fell 2m onto some rocks. Very scary, but just a little banged up on the knee. Weight barring and good ROM, so after calming our nerves we descended slowly.
4km after descent is horrible bush. We stayed river left, but it zig zags a lot. Took a long time.
Arrived at Ford of Rio Avellano and it was very high. Scouted for spots and down stream obstacles, but were very unsure, especially with knee. During debate, another non-gpt hiker crossed going other direction. His ability to cross gave us more confidence and we did it. Up to my Belly Button, though I am kinda short (170cm).
He also told us about Roberto’s puesto (unmarked) where we could buy more food (with slow walking from injury we were nervous about food supply).
10km to Roberto’s Puesto ( -46.45777, -72.32740). Roberto is extremely nice and welcoming to hikers. He has been there 3 years and lives full time (in winter too) at his puesto. He plans to build better gates, though with stair crossings for hikers. He is happy to be considered a resource and placed on GPT network. He also informed us that the plan has been approved to build road from Levican to Puerto Avellano, though it could be several years. He also has really cute kittens right now.
Roberto gave us food, and offered us to stay the next day so Gabe could rest. We took him up on that.
While Gabe rested, I helped Roberto with some work around the Puesto, and he offered me a horse to cross river to find service to call my nurse friend and perhaps organize a boat transport (there is wifi, free with no password, at Puesto (81.8/511)).
I ended up going with Roberto and doing some Arriero work. We collected some materials from other puestos and moved two Steers to the Puesto. It was like my 5th time on a horse, but actually the best experience of my life.
Boat transport from Puerto Avellano to Puerto Rio Tranquilo costs 570k CLP, way too much we are walking out of here. At night Roberto cooked an Asado, que rico.
Today we made it to Puerto Avellano, however due to high winds this evening, we will stay here and try go make bus in Levican at 7pm tomorrow.
Quite an eventful section haha!

''' GPT33/2026-02-14 to 2026-02-20/6 days/ SOBO/RR-Variant E,H/Denis, Robert '''

Resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo we did in Minimarket Villarica, they have gas as well. It was closed but we called them and begged to open for us.

Despite the bad weather forecast due to rain and strong wind, we decided to go to the section packed for 6-7 days.

Up to 46 km it is only road later with some fallen trees which we could easily overpass.
Next 10 km are on nice, looks like used trail.

On the junction with O8 there is old Puesto, which could be potentially good shelter from bad weather, we saw mouse there.

From 59km we took Variant D to check on Lakes, it is pure CC between rocks and boulders all the way to the pass. But even with light rain the rocks weren’t slippery. After pass is important to follow GPX track, otherwise you could end up close to stepper terrain.

We camped next to the lake at the camping spot, we spent there whole afternoon and next morning because of rain storm and wind.

BB and CC wasn’t too difficult but it took while to get through, bush, muddy terrain, rivers. First 2,5 km we jumped from one side of river to another depending on the better conditions. But later it is good to stay on left. From 68,5 km it is nice trail.

The first ford at 70 km was up to knees fairly easy and the second at 80 km, was up to waist but still easy to do. (It was day after heavy rainfall and in the evening).

Took variant H to avoid another fording.

Traverse of the lake was very nice, good trail with amazing views, it is up and down, time consuming but totally worth it.

Camps:

1. S 46.167090° W 72.254022° spot in forest hidden from road na water
2. S 46.29927° W 72.48627° spot in forest next to the meadow and river, sheltered from wind
3. S 46.421887° W 72.506877° camp spot next to the lake, beautiful views but not perfectly sheltered from wind
4. S 46.457862° W 72.301269° next to river, better to take water from better source
5. S 46.438222° W 71.995427° nice spot on grass between trees, good sheltered, 300 meter from water
6. S 46.298789° W 71.968988° spot on grass, sheltered from wind no water

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 4/5

* '''2026 Feb 2 to Feb 14 / 11 hiking days, 2 zero days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, Var H, Var E, Opt 2 / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES: A long and grueling section, but worth it if you get good weather and nice views of the Torres. It is worth making the effort to time this section with the weather, both for enjoyment as well as safety. We think NOBO is the much more attractive direction to go, especially up the Torres valley. The camp at the Torres is only for excellent weather, but worth it. If not planning to do the pass, the bypass valley is really enjoyable and has many nice views of its own.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.43813, -71.99556 (Camp 113.9, flat space for multiple tents on grass, good wind protection, no view, water about 200 m away

Night 2: -46.48709, -72.10010 (On the Campo Chico península, flat space for one tent, a little wind protection from west winds but not much, nice view, water from the lake very close by)

Night 3: -46.46164, -72.24432 (Flat space for one tent, wind protection from west winds, some view, water about 200 m away)

Night 4: -46.45153, -72.41652 (Flat, grassy area, space for a few tents, good wind protection, water close by)

Night 5: -46.42558, -72.50041 (Flat space for one tent, water nearby, good wind protection)

Night 6: -46.42178, -72.50672 (Camp 63.4, stellar view, no wind protection, difficult water access)

Night 7: -46.43207, -72.43984 (near Ford 69.8, wind protected, water nearby)

Nights 8-10: -46.36802, -72.43937 (At Puesto? 4.8, flat space for 2 tents, excellent wind protection, no view, water is about 200 m away)

Night 11: -46.26115, -72.40152 (flat spot for 1 tent, water nearby, some wind protection, right on the trail)

Night 12: -46.15244, -72.22080 (Emergency camp, not recommended, no water)

WATER: Generally very accessible, however on the minor road section of RR close to Cerro Castillo there was a 16 km stretch where we did not find water. Details below.

Day 01 - Feb 2nd

We took the bus from Ibáñez to the cruz. The route is well known by the locals and the driver knew the spot. She asked if we were planning to come back via Ibáñez or leaving through Cerro Castillo. (We stayed in Ibáñez at Cabañas Antu, a nice place, we would recommend (+56 9 7996 0067). The owner works for the municipality and confirmed what another report here said, that they will build a road to the port, in part to promote tourism, and they plan to make the Avellanos a protected area. He said they are doing exploration and surveys now, but in about 5 years they will start the road.) The minor road out is easy to follow. There were a couple of locked gates we had to hop. We stopped for lunch near Water 119.9 at the point where Daniel camped. It looked like a good camping spot with easy water access. We met Graham and Gabe headed SOBO and chatted with them for a bit. The road down is steep and sandy. Camp 116.3 had a flattish space but there were the plants with the spikey little balls growing everywhere. We pushed on to Camp 113.9 and were happy with the choice. It was just off the trail (look for the hole in the fence), flat, grassy, and wind protected. We had to go back to the stream about 200 m away for water.

Day 02 - Feb 3rd

The day of ups and downs. For some reason last year we were under the impression that the route went right along cliffs above the water and would be challenging for someone with vertigo (we both have it). We did not find this to be the case at all. There were a few short tricky spots, but nothing particularly bad. This would, however, be very unpleasant to walk in windy or rainy weather. Fortunately it was dry and windless most of the day. As we got closer to the lake there were some BB sections which became tiring. When we got to the lake at one point we put on water shoes and walked the rocky beach to save on the BB. We camped at the Campo Chico península near the east beach. We looked at the area under the willows near the old puesto, but we couldn't see how to put the tent. Many of the branches hung low, the ground was sloped, and there was no good water access. Above the beach we found a spot next to what looked to be another old puesto, there was an old wood stove, a table and some corrugated sheet metal. The wind protection was not great. Camping directly on the beach would probably have been better.

Day 03 - Feb 4th

The last 4 km to the port were mostly easy. Toward the end we switched to water shoes and walked the shore to avoid BB. We walked until we reached a fence built out into the lake. Just up the hill was an open gate and the road to the refugio. It was very windy there. We found a place in the bushes that was wind protected and had lunch. The refugio itself was not that inviting. It looked like a temporary office on a construction site. After lunch we started up the minor road. It was windy and there was a bit of rain on and off. The road and the landscape both felt kind of monotonous. We camped just before Ford 87.2 in the same place Dave and Siyuan camped (and thank you to them for leaving the GPS coordinates in the report, I doubt we would have seen that spot otherwise). It was a flat space big enough for our tent on grass with good wind protection from west winds. Water was about 200 m away at the ford.

Day 04 - Feb 5th

A mild day, no real wind, some sun and some clouds, cool, which we were happy for. We used the open Wi-Fi network at Puesto 81.8 to check the weather again. The network was not password protected and we were able to get signal from the road. We took Var H to only have to cross the river once. The crossing was easier than we expected. We crossed very close to the marked crossing at km 81.2. It was just above the knees at the deepest point (we're both about 165 cm) with decent current but manageable. Shortly after crossing we saw Roberto just as he was taking his ox cart across the river. We waved to each other. No one was around when we passed Maria and Julio's. We took Var E because the RR after the intersection looked like bush bashing through swamp. The trail kept disappearing for the first kilometer or so, but it was in open forest so we just needed to navigate around fallen trees. After a kilometer the trail became much more consistent and easy to follow. We camped at about km 1.4 on the variant. It was a nice, flat grassy spot just after a muddy stream crossing in a clearing that provided good wind protection but with no trees directly overhead, so no risk of falling branches. For water I went up stream a few meters and found an area that was sandy with good flow and ladled the water with my cup, being careful not to stir up sediment. The water tasted surprisingly good, very clean and fresh.

Day 05 - Feb 6th

We got started early to get across the last major ford. The remainder of Var E was in good shape and easy to follow. Ford 71.8 was easy. The two km between it and Ford 69.8 was also in good shape and easy to follow. Ford 69.8 was knee deep for us and actually quite easy. Fortunately there had been several cooler or overcast days without any real rain, so the level was low. The path up to Trailhead 68.5 was very steep for a lot of it. We stopped for lunch at Camp No Water 68.7. It is an old corral. We would not be able to put our tent up there if we wanted to. It was sloped ground, very lumpy, and had lots of shrubs and small trees growing inside of it. At the Trailhead waypoint we followed a dry creek bed down to the river. The level was fairly low, about half calf, and we decided to try walking the river instead of fighting with the forest. For the next three hours we crossed back and forth across the river. I cannot say for certain if it was faster. For us it was a bit easier because our bags are rather heavy which makes going over downfalls cumbersome, and with the water level still relatively low it wasn't too bad. By around 16:00 we got to just before the side valley drainage emptied into the main river and we had to go up into the forest. We were getting tired and as the warm sunny day progressed, the water level and the current both went up. After that we switched between the forest and the river four or five more times before the end of the day. We found a decent place to camp in the woods. It was fairly flat, right near a stream, and had the remains of an old fire ring on the side.

Day 06 - Feb 7th

We took a slow morning. Two other GPTers passed us on their way to the Torres and we had a nice chat. The last 200-300 meters of the route up to the Torres is a steep granite boulder field. It required a bit of scrambling and was quite exhausting. At the campsite there is a short stone wind wall that was too small for our X-Mid 2. We managed to set it up outside the wall, though it was a bit of a challenge. The whole area could accommodate maybe three small tents, one inside the wind wall and two outside of it, but for larger footprint tents it is not so easy. Water is the other issue there. Right as the track reaches the ridge going NOBO, just before it turns right, there was a way to get down to the lake that wasn't too steep. The campsite was another 200 m further on from that point. We had excellent weather for the day, sunny and no wind. The Torres and the other mountains around, which are just as interesting, looked nice after the sun was behind them. The finer details were more visible. The night was surprisingly warm.

Day 07 - Feb 8th

We got up about a half hour before sunrise. We got to see the orange light on the Torres which was very exciting. We stayed for about an hour and a half taking pictures. We found a slightly different way down the boulder field which went quicker. On the way down the hill we found a trail of sorts and followed it as long as we could. Eventually we ended up back in the river crossing back and forth. I used TracBack on the Garmin to look at how we had come up and that took the guess work out of the fording points. It took us about half as long to get down as it did to go up. We were fortunate that the level was relatively low again. The only tricky part was right after the side valley river joined the main one. We decided to camp early and stayed down near Ford (69.8). Just after we set up camp it started to rain a bit.

Day 08 - Feb 9th

We knew that a sistema frontal had been coming, and Tuesday was supposed to be a day of heavy rain and high wind, so we wanted a good place to wait it over. We remembered from last year that the camp at Puesto ? 4.8 was very well wind protected and had flat, grassy space. We started early to get there as early as possible. We arrived around 13:00. The trail was surprisingly good for most of the way. As the flood plain opened up near the swampy area we just followed the river banks, crossing where necessary to avoid BB and trail hunting. The puesto shelter had partially collapsed. We camped in the flat, grassy space just beyond it. There was a short path leading to a small clearing with a log that looked like it had been cut to be a trough.

Day 09 & 10 - Feb 10th & 11th

Took zero days to wait over rain and high wind. The campsite had excellent wind protection.

Day 11 - Feb 12th

A cold but beautiful sunny day. We continued to enjoy the bypass valley. All fords were easy, even after rain and snow up above. On the way up to Puesto 53, 2 guys with a team of horses passed us. After the pass a few of the bridges and wooden culverts had collapsed and we ended up doing several unexpected shoe changes. We camped just off the trail at km 37.

Day 12 - Feb 13th

The MR was in good shape the rest of the way. We passed a group of three hikers going SOBO. Having hiked in on Opt 3B last season, we wanted to hike out on RR. The views of Lago Lapparent, Lago Alto and Lago Verde were very nice. The road gets a bit tiring after a while. Camp 16.9+0.3 would have required a fence jump, and the gate was padlocked from the inside. We didn't know if that meant someone was there and didn't want to risk an issue so we kept on hiking. Camp 9.6+0.2 should be removed from the tracks. On the map it looks as if it is 200 m off the main road and easily accessible via a minor road. In reality there is no road, just a 40 m dropoff, and no access to the campsite or the lake. We ended up climbing through a fence and camping in the woods near an abandoned house in a spot without water. An important note if taking RR there is a 16 km stretch where water is not easily available. We did not find any water between km 19.5 where there was public beach access to Lago Alto until km 3. Despite the number of lakes on the map, the MR goes quite high above them and they are all fenced off, so access is difficult if not impossible. There were some other features on the map that looked like ponds, but they turned out to be seasonal wetlands which were either dry, or muddy, stagnant water. We didn't take enough and ended up camping without water for the night which was not pleasant. Obviously depending on the time of year there might be water here, but in mid-February there wasn't.

Day 13 - Feb 14th

We continued on the road. We walked about 100 m past X 5.5 before realizing that it was beyond a gate and had to walk back to it. The MR is actually nice, starting to disappear and look more like a trail. The views into the surrounding mountains were very nice; there is a panoramic view of Cerro Castillo and the other mountains in the range. We finally found water at (-46.137001, -72.177002) around km 3. There were some pipes going across the trail directing water into three large cisterns. I followed the pipes through the bushes for about 2 m and found enough of a stream to get water. We hiked down to the highway and arrived in Cerro Castillo around noon.

* '''GPT33H / 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-21/ 5 Days / SOBO / Hiking / 3B, RR, 8, 4 / Alex and Aoife.'''

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 4 / 5 verging on 5/5 in the overgrown parts of Option 8 (Our day 4).

We chose to backtrack from the Pass to Option 08 and descend into Bahia Murta so we could go and see the Marble Caves.

If we had time, and had known about it before hand we would have also walked up a track to get a view of the Torres from the Northern aspect. The track begins around
Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548]
-46.397340, -72.582010 and ascends a trail following Rio Estero South. We were told you can find the track details/GPX for that particular part on WikiLoc which seems to be like a Chilean 'Alltrails'.

Day 1:
Bus from Coyhaique at 0800. ( Bus Company, Don Carlos), 9k CLP To option 3B Trail Head.

Distance: 22km
Time: 1100- 1800
Water:
Water available at various points where the river passes under bridges. Small stream at eastern edge of campsite clearing.
Camp: -46.26492, -72.41280

Route:
Option 3b MR, easy walk to where it joins to the RR- along a gravel road. Nice views. Didn't see a single car only saw a friendly man on a horse.

Day 2:

Distance: 22km
Time: 07.45- 19.45
Water:
Lots of opportunities for water on the route. Water available on the pass from a stream
(We were there 2 days after heavy rainfall)

Route:
Easy start on MR until you find the TL that takes you through Lenga forrest. We followed cow tracks ( and poo) through the forest. Trail not always clear but easy enough to find.

Slow moving in boggy grassy sections. Crossed multiple streams. Took off shoes once.

Camp:
Plenty of camping options along the way. Upon reaching the pass we decided to camp there as we had a good forecast, good views and tired legs. Would only consider with nil wind forecast. Views were amazing, had a nice sunset.

* We saw a great campsite for maybe 3 tents on a sandy beach next to stream with some plunge pools and very sheltered at -46.409772, -72.498086

Day 3:

Distance: 14.31km
Time: 1100-1940
Water:
Plenty of options along the route. We prefer small clear streams rather than glacial rivers. No small streams at campsite But we had carried enough from earlier.

Route:
We followed the RR back down to the unmarked Puesto we had passed the previous day, near enough to:
Camp {33H} [52.7/953]
(-46.34585, -72.49821)
We then took option 8 all the way to the remains of a Puesto (-46.36573, -72.52865) and camped here. Trail easy enough to follow. Follow the cow poo and hoof prints.

Camp:
The remains of a Puesto (-46.36573, -72.52865) not many flat spots, by a river not a stream. If you continued a few hundred ms more there was a more idyllic location close to a stream.

Day 4:

Distance: 12.3km
Time: 0700- 1700
Water: plenty of water spots along the way.

Route:
Continued on option 8. Not far into this day the trail became a full body workout. An obstacle course requiring lots of maneuvering over many fallen trees, hard to follow path, very slow and tiring day. Track very overgrown in parts.

Camp:
'Camp? {33H-08} [8.1/462]'
(-46.410860, -72.612140) - waterfall not far from camp a bit further down the track at around: (-46.41242, -72.61436)

Day 5:

Distance: 8.45km
Time: 3hrs 20mins
Water: Few options early on, we filled up few km before TL meets the MR when there is a fence and a gate blocking the river.

Route:
Easy day , followed option 8 all the way to the gate at the PR on option 4.
Started early as was hoping to hitch a ride to the marble caves at Rio Tranquilo , we managed to and would recommend.

Upon completion of the cave tour we missed the bus to Chile Chico by only about 20 mins, we decided that was a sign to have some rest so we camped at ‘Bellavista: Hospedaje, Camping y Transporte’ 8k CLP p/p, it was fine. Kitchen access, showers etc. Quite busy.

* '''2026-01-17 to 2026-01-22 / 6 Days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO then NOBO / Opt 09, 08, RR, Var D, Opt 03 / Michel & Lisa'''

Summary: Another really beautiful section. It's a bit of a battle to get up to the Torres (either long road waking or bush bashing) but it's actually worth it. We took the packraft down Río Murta in very high flow and stashed things in Cruce Murta before venturing up to the Torres. There are definitely mice here as well so we made sure to always hang our food and had zero problems this way. Option 8 is both nice and deserted but also tough, especially for going in. As others have said it might be a better option to get out with lighter packs, due to the bushwhacking and the elevation gain on this route.

Day 1

We took the bus towards Chile Chico from Coyhaique at 8:00 from the bus terminal and got dropped off at River In {33H-09) [0.0/275] at around 12:15. There's an open, small hut that we used for shelter from the setting in rain. You could sleep in there as well. The river water levels were really high due to rain the previous two days and the flow fast - very different from what the satellite images show. Turbid, brown water instead of crystal clear, blueish. We started paddling and enjoyed the really fast flow (10 km/h and more when completely in the flow). At the same time it meant that we couldn't see much of what was going on below the water surface and we scratched over rocks a couple of times. There were hardly any rock islands visible and we floated over places that on satellite images are just rock - there was that much water. At times we were worried that the river could become dangerous in narrow stretches if there were sunken trees but nothing dangerous happened. We made the 36 km to Bridge (33H-04) [0.2/211] in only 3 h 20 min (excluding breaks). We took close by, at Residencial Patagonia [-46.44156, -72.71190] where the high water levels basically allowed us to float into their back yard. We stayed the night (20000 clp pp in a room, 8000 clp for camping) and stored our packraft in the alojamiento for going to the torres.

Day 2

We hitchhiked to Bahía Murta, bought some additional supplies and started hiking Option 8. The path is clear and easy to travel at first. After Ford {33H-08} [11.5/545] (Estero Sur) the trail becomes harder to follow with boggy sections and lots of fallen trees. There's considerable elevation gain up to Water (33H-08} [14.5/946], where you get the first nice views of the valley and start descending again. We continued to Camp (33H-08} [16.1/703] where we found a spot that's just big enough to put a 2 person tent and not exactly flat but good enough. All in all we did 22.3 km that day in 9 h 25 min, thanks to the bushwhacking which wasn't terrible but not exactly pleasant either.

Day 3

We continued from our camp and were positively surprised that the path actually got better after the first ~3-4 km with less fallen trees, a more visible path and less soggy ground. There are many more potential campsites along this section which are not marked in the track files, some of them I noted here:

* S46.376195° W72.537594°
* S46.354586° W72.516934°
* S46.348093° W72.501339° (camp with some tables and a view over an open (boggy) area with mountains in the background - looks like someone is trying to set something more commercial up here)
* S46.352356° W72.489023°

We got to RR at around 14:00 and continued for a while before taking a well deserved lunch break. We chose to follow Variant D which is more direct and leads to the first lagoon. If you're comfortable with hiking over rocks and boulders we would definitely recommend this over RR since the view of the towering mountains you get once you're at the lagoon is amazing (given good weather I suppose). There are no obvious camp spots at the lagoon itself but you can find level, sandy spots in the vicinity of you wanted to stay here. It can probably get pretty windy down here though. We continued to Camp {33H} [61.1/1167] and went for a swim in the second lagoon (yes, the weather was that good, haha - lucky us!) which is about 10 min walking from the camp. We didn't find a perfectly flat spot here but there are a couple options that are actually more than fine. The advantage of picking this site is that you're really sheltered from the wind, thanks to the trees. Water nearby and soft ground (vegetation) are added benefits. Some parts are quite wet so you might have to search around for a moment to find something suitable.

Day 4

We decided to have a relaxed day and just hiked up to the pass to see the actual Torres, which to be honest we found almost a bit underwhelming. Personally I much preferred the view down the valley from our camp and from the first lagoon. But you might get a better view from down in the valley from the lagoons (i.e. after descending from the pass, which we didn't do). Still, the Torres are impressive and it was definitely worth the walk up. From the valley bottom and the pass it looked like one could potentially climb up to one of the passes to the east to get a view down onto option 02 (-46.40615, -72.48187 or -46.40237, -72.48235) but it would be a scramble - we didn't try. Potentially it could even be possible to go down there to join option 02 with some bushwhacking, but that's really a shot into the blue. Maybe someone wants to try. ;)

Day 5

Since there was some bad weather forecast for the coming days we decided to hike out. Going down we decided to try the RR to be able to compare with variant D. RR was also fine but there was some trail finding through the forest required and some boggy sections as well. However, it might still be slightly faster than Variant D. Still, coming up I would highly recommend Variant D so you get the beautiful view from the lagoon. We came all the way to [-46.28395, -72.44366] in 6 h 50 min, where we camped. The spot is close to the road but invisible from there, nice and flat and wind protected. In the evening a pigmy owl came for a visit and sat in the tree next to us really close before it was detected by another bird and flew away - a pretty special encounter. Lots of mouse holes everywhere so we hung our food like always on this section just to be sure.

Day 6

We continued along the road, first nice and shady in the forest and then in the scorching heat of the sun. We saw a pigmy owl in the forest that allowed us to observe it for quite a while and then we even saw it catch some large insect (a firefly maybe?) which felt like another really special moment along the otherwise rather dull road.
We continued walking along the road until we were lucky to get picked up by one of the settlers who was driving to Villa Cerro Castillo with his wife. They were very friendly and explained a lot about their lifestyle living up in the mountain valley all year. They said that the flow of hikers to the Torres has really increased in the past few years and that some people seem to be setting up some gear for climbing up there with clients. They said that they didn't mind hikers coming to visit. :)

* ''' 2026-01-16 to 2026-01-20 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO 3B, RR, H, K / Daniel.s '''

Not much to add to the previous entries (especially Dave and Siyuan and Emily and Kole)

Day 1 was a roadhike in the rain and cold for me, Camp at 38.5/1020 (-46.26492, -72.41280)

Day 2 started late (noon) due to snow and rain in the morning. Trail in good condition, CC quite wet due to rain. Camped at x with Option 8 (mice in the shelter!)

Day 3 perfect weather day, CC to pass very wet due to previous rain, wet feet again, otherwise straight forward. See D+S recommended exit point after pass. A lot of scrambling over granite blocks. Further down - as E+K mentioned boggy on both sides of the river, from about halfway it's probably better to stay left of the river. Camp at first Ford, like D+S.

Day 4 trail and MR to Puerto Avellano, river crossing where D+S suggested, a braided section, knee deep for me and immediate connection to MR on the other side.

Day 5 trail along the lake is energy consuming, it's 90% loose rock, sand and gravel. MR is steep and dusty in the beginning, great campsite at S 46.40217°, W 071.97845° near water.

* ''' 2025-Dec-13 to 2025-Dec-19 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO RR, Opt 8 / Massa and Jacicek '''

We did not complete whole trail, but what we saw was really nice. Exit by opt 8 took us 2.5 days. No problems with water or Fords.

Day 1
Hiked from Villa Cerro Castillo to Lago Alto, we had lift for approx 5km.
The Rr from km 1.2 (after you walk off caretera austral) is through nice hills and very pretty, until you reach the minor road.
Camped on a hill alongside Lago Alto at [-46.17655, -72.32639], with a view on Laguna Verde, the spot is not flat and not well wind protected.

Day 2
Hiked through beautiful woods, as noted, camp x is fenced off and there are trespassing sings, however, there is also a ladder over the fence, so no problems there. Walked up to the Ford with Estero Alto and camped approx 200m before the ford km 36 [-46.25544, -72.38370 ] . Several spots with flat spaces there.

Day 3
Forded the Estero Alto river on km 36, ankle deep only. Beautiful section with large meadows. Camped at the end of the meadow alongside the stream on km 51 [-46.33183, -72.48916 ] .

Day 4
This day, we got awful weather, stopped approx 3km before Torres de Avellano. Camped in small spot in the forest, place for one tent, good wind protection [-46.37974, -72.49111 ] .

Day 5
Decided to turn back and head for Bahia Murta using opt 8. Camp at [-46.36514, -72.52866]. Path is recognizable and traversable.

Day 6
Fallen trees in the path, lots of ups and downs. Camped next to a Camp ? [11.6/548]. When we came, there were tents erected there, however nobody was present, we camped near the river, outside of the obvious camp. In the evening a guy came and we asked him if we can camp there and said yes. In the morning a local guide (different guy) came and said that it would be better to camp in the main camp, as there is a toilet, and to give him a heads up beforehand (www.guiasdelavellano.com).

Day 7
The path from Camp ? Is maintained, however parts are muddy.

* '''2025-12-27 to 2026-01-02 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / 3B + RR + H / Dave & Siyuan'''

We took 8 days of food with us from Villa Cerro Castillo and hoped we would get lifts at the start and the end. Luckily we did get lifts (32km in total) and spend 7 days on the trail.

Day 1 - 16km - 10:30-17:00
🚌 9.40am bus from Villa Cerro Castillo to start of Option 3B
🥾 Walked 1km, got a lift 🚗 for 6km to the RR, walked on the road for the rest of the day, a couple of gates, one easy ford. The public road ends at a locked gate at -46.26266, -72.35047.
⛺️ Camp at 38.5/1020 (-46.26492, -72.41280) the edge of this large clearing is sheltered from the wind with a stream nearby.

Day 2 - 20km - 09:00-19:00
🥾 Easy road walk and horse trail in the morning, then it gets harder in the forest as the trail isn’t obvious a the time. Many stream crossings and boggy sections but kept feet dry.
⛺️ Camp at 58.8/1020 (-46.39009, -72.49369) one tent spot, away from the wind, as recommended by Emily & Kole - thanks!

Day 3 - 11km - 09:00-20:00
🥾 The pass day. It was raining on and off the whole day and we didn’t get to see all the views. No snow on the way up and walked around one snow patch on the way down. Make sure you follow the RR and head left at the top of the pass (to approx -46.41859, -72.49544) so you descend on the rocky/bouldery patch in between the slippery steep slabs. Once we reached the bottom, we walked on the left bank of the river, 4 km of CC, BB and intermittent animal trails, slow going.
⛺️ Camp at 69.8/634 just before the ford.

Day 4 - 17.5km - 09:00-17:30
🥾 The day of river crossings of Rio Avellano and other side streams. The first main one at camp dropped a little bit overnight. It was up to our crotch deep. Fast current, manageable with careful footing. The second time crossing Rio Avellano, we crossed it here (-46.45641, -72.32730) a braided section. It was at knee deep. The river path probably changes every year as where we crossed didn’t look like what’s on satellite images.
⛺️ Camped at 87.4/454 (-46.46164, -72.24432) one tent tent, partially wind protected. It was 200m after a ford.

Day 5 - 15km 10:00-14:00 and 19:00-20.30
🥾 Easy walking on minor road towards the lake. Very windy and dusty. Spent a few hours at the disused port building at Puerto Avellano to shelter from the afternoon wind. Walked the last few kms after dinner.
⛺️ Campo Chico 102.4/212 (-46.48727, -72.10030) near the lake.

Day 6 - 14km - 08.15-16.15
🥾 A dusty day walking up and down hills along the shore through thorny bushes. Crossing a stream or creek every hour or two. Windy.
⛺️ Campsite 116.3/239 was full of thorns, except one tent spot near a boggy area (-46.42128, -71.98175).

Day 7 - 14km - 09:00-14.00 + hitchhiking
🥾 Walked along the shore then up on a dusty road. 14km to the road intersection between Puerto Ibanez and Levican. We found only two water sources between the lake and the road - both small streams: (-46.40371, -71.97566), and (-46.38677, -71.97407). Both might be dry in drought.
🚗 We waited at a bus stop shelter for 1.5h before the first car passed and picked us up. 🚌 We took a bus back to Coyhaique at night from Puerto Ibanez instead of staying there due to perfect bus timing and cheaper and wider resupply options in Coyhaique.

*'''2025-12-27 to 2026-01-02/ 7 days/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR, Option 8, RR, Variant D/RR/ Option 3B/ Option 3/ Greg Carter, Tomas Martinec'''

Overall
The Torres de Avellano are spectacular, and it’s well worth the effort to access them.

Attraction: 5
Difficulty: 4

Important note: at Puesto Aguero (Day 1) we encountered an official looking sign requiring registration and payment of CLP 6,000 per person/ night, for Torres del Avellano. However Andre Aguero did not seek to enforce this. In the future this may be enforced regardless of the entry point into the area of the Torres.

Day 1
We got the 7am bus (CLP 10,500) from Cochrane which dropped us off at Cruce Murta at around 11am. From there we walked 3km to the trailhead of Option 8, where a new gate must be climbed.

The trail is steep and when it enters the forest there is a lot of fallen trees and branches, however most have been cleared up to a puesto which has been built at Camp? {33H-08} [11.6, 548]. This puesto is owned by a friendly guide (Andres Aguero), who takes clients on a private trail up to the Torres de Avellano from the puesto, on a 20km round trip. Andres has built a bridge over the Estero Sur, at [11.5, 545], so no ford is necessary there. We camped at the puesto for no cost. My tent had a hole in the morning, as did a number of food bags: hang your food here and all other camps!

Day 2
After the puesto the trail is not used or maintained, and it is very slow going with many fallen trees and branches. We left at 7am, pushed hard with a few quick breaks, and arrived at the intersection with the RR at 2:40pm, a distance of approximately 12km ie less than 2km/h.

There is another abandoned puesto at -46.36573, -72.52865, at approximately 19km.

It was not necessary to ford the Rio Resbalin at [15.6] or [15.8], we stayed on the southern side of the river.

At the RR intersection there is good camping at -46.34573, -72.49709, alongside a stream, near a corral. The nearby puesto was not occupied.

It was nice to meet David Brophy and Siyuan Hong passing through.

That afternoon, knowing that the next 2 days would be rainy, we did a quick return hike up the RR, to see the Torres in perfect visibility.

There is an established sheltered camp on the RR at -46.36762, -72.48672.

Day 3
Zero rest day, as it rained all day.

Day 4
With sunny weather forecast for the following day, we again hiked in light rain up the RR towards the Torres and camped at -46.39020, -72.49375, where there is space for a 2 man and 1 man tent. We could not find the camp others have mentioned at -46.39161, -72.49438.

Note: At about 58km it is easier to go up the slope to follow the cairns around the tree line, rather than follow the GPT eg cairns at -46.38167, -72.49209 and -46.38199, -72.49218.

Day 5
This day was perfect weather from beginning to end. Blue sky and little to no wind. The views of the Torres and the 2 lagunas were amazing, as are the views from the pass. The pass has no snow but there are a few patches of snow on the southern side of the pass, which are easy to avoid or walk across. We tried to get down to the 3rd laguna but went too far right and got stopped by steep slippery rock.

In the afternoon we returned to the previous camp at the RR intersection (-46.34573, -72.49709).

Day 6
We hiked out NOBO along the RR and camped beside a river, near the bridge over the river to the Settler [29.4/537], who wasn’t home. There are nice views on the hike out of snow-capped mountains.

Day 7
Hiked out on Option 3B, and hitched within minutes on Option 3 into Villa Cerro Castillo. There is plenty of tourist traffic on the Carretera Austral.

* ''' 2025-12-14 to 2025-12-15/ 2 days/ Hiking/ NOBO/ Option 1/Tomas Martinec'''

This was my first test with a multiday hike outside the main tourist routes like Torres del Paine and El Chalte. It also served as practical way to get from Chile Chico to Villa Cerro Castillo where I planned to continue with the Cerro Castillo trek.

The hike took me 2 days (about half of day of walking each day).

Challenges:
Lack of drinkable water at the plateau
Difficulty finding a suitable camping spot in the middle section

Day 1
I took the ferry from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibanez Ingeniero (very cheap, around 2500 CLP) and started hike around midday. The first day follows an old gravel road. Cars passed ocasionally and several drivers even offered me the lift.

The route offers some nice scenery, including a wattergall near the beginning and open landscapes in the higher sections.

Finding a place to camp was difficult to me. The Camp {33H-01} [12.5/666] is on private land and in the morning I saw many cows around. In the end, I slept near Settler {33H-01} [13.7/636].

I recommend carrying water from the lower parts of the route. In the upper section there are lagoons, but the water is stagnant. Personally, I wasn't comfortable drinking it, even with water filter.

Day 2
This day follows a proper trail, passing lakes, forests, and open terrain. The views are beautiful- both of surrounding mountains and down into the valley- and I enjoyed this section a lot.

The last 3 kms before entering to Villa Cerro Castillo are on an asphalt road, which is not very enjoyable.

'''2025-Dec-13 to 2025-Dec-18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var D, Var H, Var J, Opt 11, Opt 11G / Emily & Kole'''

Camps (all spots had space for two tents, relatively sheltered, and water nearby):

Day 1: -46.25533, -72.38371

Day 2: -46.39009, -72.49369

Day 3: -46.42604, -72.49970

Day 4: Refuge [98.4+0.2/211] (Puerto Avellano)

Day 5: -46.37248, -71.87165

Attractiveness - 5/5

Difficulty - 4/5

* Joined by Ohad for the roadwalk from Villa Cerro Castillo - thanks for the company! Hope you found your stove. Beautiful views of Cerro Castillo, Laguna Verde and Lago Alto. The camp at 32.0/700 is on private property, so we continued on to a flat spot on the river around 35km. There appeared to be good flat spots in the forest to the left of trail around 1km before 32.0.
* Timed our arrival to the Torres for a clear day. Took the ascent and descent (58.5km to 63.4) of the main pass slowly as it was covered in snow between knee to hip-height. Where possible we scrambled on the uncovered boulders to avoid post-holing. Took significant time. Variant D along the glacial lakes was nice, although it may require a bit more scrambling than RR. We met GPT hikers Bailey and Ed going NOBO on our ascent to the pass - a big thank you for the footsteps!
* The view of the Torres from the main Pass [61.9/1314] was great but the best viewpoint for us was from the lake by the Camp [63.4/995].
* After 64km, Kole followed game trail to the right of the river and Em to the left. Both options were boggy, with intermittent trail and lots of blowdowns. Wet feet. Slow going, but not too difficult. Trail was clear and easy to follow after 68.5km. Ran into settler Julio driving cattle shortly thereafter.
* We forded Rio Avellano 100m downstream of 81.2/490, at 46.45791, -72.31714. Very strong current, upper-thigh height, had to cross slowly, but manageable with careful footing.
* Slept on the floor of the refugio in Puerto Avellano. A table, some chairs, and wood burning stove inside. Didn’t notice any pests. There are a few spots for tents behind in the trees, but very wind exposed. Met the settler that lives nearby the following day.
* From the junction with the road [130.4/311] we took Option 11 into Levican and camped behind some bushes with good wind protection. We didn’t find any good spots on 11G, with the north shore being very windy. Started the road walk to Puerto Ibanez on the final day, but luckily got a hitch 3km out of Levican (around 8am), we rode with them all the way to Coyhaique (he turned out to be Julio’s brother).

'''GPT33 / 2025 Dec 12-16 / NOBO / RR / 5 days/ hiking // Bailey & Ed'''

General notes - another incredibly beautiful section. Had to take a few slow days approaching the pass because of high winds and snow.

Challenges - crossing snow boulder fields at the pass

Costs - paid 70,000 CLP for two people to be dropped off just before bridge [129.3/304], saving about 27 km of road walking. +56982463160

Difficulty - 4/5

Attractiveness - 5/5

Day 1

Caught the ferry from Chile chico, took about three hours leaving at 8 am. We went to the tourist office to ask about a taxi. Mostly on minor roads to camp

Camp 1

Nice campground, wind sheltered with water [116.3/239]

Day 2

Pretty good trail, connects to a minor road. Fords okay

Camp 2

Another nice campground, wind sheltered with water [82.8/479]

Day 3.

Short day mostly on a minor road. Fords okay

Camp 3

Camped next to ford [69.8/634] because the next campsite was noted without water. This campsite was nice, wind sheltered with water. We met Julio returning back after a days work. A lot of deadfall here though

Day 4

Started with walking in the river bed. The snow line started at the campground next to the lake. Previous trip report was useful mentioning stay right of the waterfall on the ascent to the pass. We tried staying in the forest and off the boulder field as long as we could. The snow was waist deep and very soft in areas. Mostly used rocks after the forest to ascend. On the descent we met col from salt lake city also hiking the GPT this season.

Camp 4

Camped at [32.0/700], a lot of cow poo around, but sheltered. Water across the fence

Day 5

Walked down the road to hitch. There's a bus shelter here to sit in and wait, protected from the wind. Waited an hour

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-Mar-19 to 2025-Mar-23/ 5 days/ Hiking/ NOBO OH 8, RR, OH 3B/ Timothée and Maëlle'''
We started in bahia Murta by option 8 to reach RR. Then we simply went to the lake 63.4 ( viewpoint) SOBO, and then back to Villa Cerro Castillo NOBO. We had light rain on the 2 first days and then sun, but with really cold nights. We have good equipment ( sleeping bags -5, big down jackets...) but without it that section would have not been enjoyable.

Camps:
Camp1: 8.1 : Nice one, some wind protected spots, not perfectly flat, water nearby.

Camp2: 52.7: several possibilities, we slept 300 m ( on OH8) before the waypoint, near wood tables, in the forest so a bit sheltered.

Camp3: S 46° 24.552', W 072° 29.933' below the camp 61.2: we slept on the river sediments: dry but not sheltered. We had absolutely no wind but that was really cold( we think about -5°): we re late in the season and it s high.

Camp4: S 46° 15.319', W 072° 23.019'
There are several other possibilities before this point on the MR. Not really after. Nice spot, quit sheltered, with the river next to it.

Day1:
We were coming from Puerto Rio Tranquillo by hitchhiking, and started from Bahia Murta around 1pm under light rain. We hiked only 8km.

Day2: We reached the RR from our first camp.
Overall, OH 8 was quite exhausting. The trail is maintained, probably by local guides: we found a lot of prints of chainsaws, machettes... but there is a lot of elevation gain ( ups and downs) and there are still a lot of trunks that you need to pass over, around... It was also usually muddy. At least we got a good impression of the rainforest! On OH 8 the trail does not always follow the GPS track really closely, probably because of the constant falling trees and that the trail was recently maintained.

Day3: For day 3 and 4 we decided to stay on RR to enjoy the torres a bit longer. We went to the pass with the viewpoint, and then down to the lack 63.4 with light backpack. We found that going to the lack and then back worthed it as the view feels quite different from the lack. The descent is not so technical, but indeed you need to follow the track, or even a bit more to the left( downward) to avoid the granit slabs.

Day 4: We went back to camp 52.7 and continued on the trail and the MR until camp 4. From camp 3 (61km) to camp 52.7 the trail can be lost, especially in the forest. After that it is quite easy and fast.
Day5: We went down the MR and then took option 3B. After 2 km on that option we caught a lift to cerro castillo. ( so a half day)

In total we hiked for a duration of 4 days spread on 5 days. ( 2 half days in both ends)

Right of way issues:
A guide in Bahia murta told us that we might be asked to pay if we meet the owner of puestos on OH 8 or when arriving in Villa Cerro Castillo.
We met no one on OH8 but we met the settler at 29.4 who was very friendly and never mentionned anything about paying.

For day 3 and 4 we thought about doing à loop woth OH2. We were coming from the south of GPT, and since GPT40, Rio avellano is the first big river with strong current to ford that we met. After heavy rain this option is probably a bit tricky. That is also why we stayed on RR.

'''2025-MAR-13 to 2025-MAR-16 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH (8, partially, then followed the east bank of Estero Sur SOBO up to southwest side of Torres de Avellano) / Joppe O'''

- 13/3: Started around 2:30PM after hitching a ride from Villa Cerro Castillo to Bahia Murta. Walked up to the mentioned camp site 33h/462. The obvious esplanade doesn’t really have a very flat spot, if you go down one ‘level’ there is a truly horizontal spot and it’s a bit more away from the trail.

- 14/3: hiked up to the ford over Rio Estero Sur. The section after the last gate up to the ford is muddy. Met three British students who came back from the Torres. The ford is easy, there is a tree log over the water and a steel cable to help you negotiate it. Lunched at Puesto/Camp at 11.6/548. Then commenced the BB section of option 8 along Resbalin. I made it about 1km into it before giving up. I did not bring a machete but even if I had I would not have pushed through it. It was impossible to make out a trail at this point and because I carried too much stuff it was too arduous and not fun, so I went back to the puesto and read a book in the sun.

- 15/3: I decided to check if I could find the trail up the Estero Sur that the British group told me of. The trail is marked with blue ribbons, pink ribbons, red paint dots, machete cuts on the trees and with cairns (hitos) so it takes some getting used to to follow it. Got lost a couple of times on the way in. There are some trees to climb over but it’s a fun hike. The last section is very steep and partially equipped with ropes to hold on to. Nonetheless would not recommend this section in rain because it would be tricky with the mud etc. Very nice trail though with really pretty forest vegetation and views on the waterfalls coming from the lakes beneath the Torres and the surrounding mountains. Made it to the lower lake around 5PM and camped right next to it at the little ¨beach¨ enjoying the warmth of a small fire made of dead wood. The spot has views of the glacier and you can hear the ice break off now and then. Very cool.

- 16/3 Woke up to rain. Went back the way I came at 10AM, the first part down through the forest is steep and requires full focus. Trail was muddier than the day before after the rain but doable. At the puesto I met Martin Aguëro, the owner, who was there for the first time in almost a year. He told me that his grandson is a guide and is the one who marked the trail and put up the ropes with the intention of taking people there. After lunch I continued the return to Bahia Murta and arrived around 8:40PM. I stayed at the cabaña next to Virginia´s house across from the aerodromo, there are more options down the road but her house is the first one that you come past on the left hand side of the road. (I think there is also a camp ground if you want to save money but at this point I was ready for a night in a proper bed :D).

Other notes:

Both Antonio Quiroz and Martin Aguëro confirmed that the BB section after the puesto along Resbalin is in disuse. They said it was opened/used by the army some decades ago and was indeed used to bring cattle to the Avellano valley, as the manual on Section 33 states.

the next day I got a ride to the bus stop from Antonio Quiroz who is a cattle farmer. He told me that another way to get to the Estero Sur and above it is to take the high route above the tree line right from the mouth of the Resbalin Valley.

For water I had 2x1.5l Nalgenes with me but I just carried a cup on my belt and took a few every time I crossed a stream, carrying .5l just in case to limit weight.

'''2025-02-28 to 2025-03-4 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 3, 3B, RR, E, H, I, partial 06, K / Tyson'''

Really beautiful section bookended by some unfortunate roadwalking. The roadwalk up and down to Puerto Ibanez was especially rough with nasty wind and rain ripping down the valley almost the whole way. But the views in the middle of the section made up for it. Pretty magical up top.

Day 1: [Option 3, 3B, RR] Caught the bus at Cafe Arbolitos in Villa Cerro Castillo. 2x buses (Sao Paulo and Bus Carolina?) show up anywhere from 9:30 - 11AM depending when they leave Coyhaique and road conditions etc). Sat up front with the driver for 2.5K pesos. Started walking the 3B road by 1045. There are a couple of bridges that you cross on the initial MR sections that are probably the easiest places to get water if you need it. Saw two climbers hiking back from the Torres who gave me some info on how best to descend the pass [62.0/1314] at the Torres. Beautiful walk up the valley to the first pass [44.4/1149], and after the pass in the CC section, especially in the evening light. Expect wet feet on the CC section. At [53.0/946] there are 2x puestos. After asking at the second, I set up my tent near the first puesto in time for another arriero to arrive and occupy the first. I asked again if my tent was ok there and he happily said no problema.

Day 2: [RR] To the Torres. Initial CC section took a little longer than expected with blowdown. I caught a little sun, and had probably 80% visibility of the Torres. Hung around the lakes there a bit, then went up the pass [62.0/1314] when it started raining in earnest. NOTE: On the way down the pass, once you are past the boulders, it is best to err on the side of staying too far left. It’s tempting to start crossing on the contour when you see a long ledge beneath you after the rock bald. I got cliffed out there and had to turn back. In better weather you might could scramble down but the GPX track is much better in wet and slippery conditions. In better weather I would have done a short day and stayed at the lakeside camp [63.4/995] (called the English camp by the climbers I met the day before?), but I decided to move on. Initially on the descent down Valle Ventisquero I followed some very nice game trail but it soon dissolved into a wet bushwhack. Thought for sure I would catch sight of a huemul with all the footprints that I was seeing, but nothing. Slept at the Camp Without Water [68.7/766]. It’s a corral that offers a nice opening with enough flat space for one tent, and plenty more not so flat space. Water is accessible down the hill. However, I recommend not stopping here and hiking another half hour to the Ford [69.8/634]. There is tons of flat space there, easy water, and you can check out the condition of the Ford.

Day 3: [RR, Option E] Down Lower Rio Avellano. Water was up with all the rain, but mostly just ~knee-high fords. I took Option E by accident but it was pleasant and very easy to follow. The Ford at [81.2/490] was too deep and fast to manage so I hiked upstream not quite a km where the river branched and found a spot that was about upper-thigh high. Stuck to Option H on the north side of the river to avoid additional fords. I took the cut-through Option I to get off the road a bit and noticed some nice flat gravel spots for camping that were free of prickly bushes. Hoping to take the Option 06 high route the next day, I pushed on past the Ford [89.5/545] but couldn’t find any open spots on the first bit of that option. So I went back to the gravel spots that I saw in Option I and camped there. NOTE as I found out the next day if you continue further up Option 06 to where you start seeing more mature tree stands you can find camp spots (without water) where cows bed down.

Day 4: [Option 06 partial, RR] Tempted by a bit of sun in the morning, I started climbing Option 06. Within an hour though it started raining and blowing, and after climbing halfway to the pass it turned to snow. Reluctantly I turned back but was immediately rewarded by a great big male huemul staring at me from about 10m away! Happily descended and started down the lower RR. After the Bridge [108.1/462] there is an old fallen down puesto [-46.457555, -72.044263] that shows up on OSM and satellite. Decent flat spot there, with water down the hill not too far away; camped there.

Day 5: [RR, Option K] Wind started up again. Got to X [130.4/311] in the afternoon and decided to push through to Puerto Ibanez. Spent the next few hours on a hellish road walk leaning into the wind and rain with not a single car going my way until I was almost to the Rio Claro bridge [147.7/211]. Was thrilled to get a hitch down to Puerto the rest of the way. Though the waterfall at Rio Ibanez is very cool, I think anyone who can figure out a ferry from Playa Levican to Chile Chico would be doing a great service to future hikers. I would gladly have paid to have skipped that bit of road on a day like that.

*'''2025-FEB-28 to 2025-MAR-01 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. A, 01A, 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We chose variants A, 01A and 01, so it was easy section which leads mainly on a paved road. There is a nice view of Cerro Castillo on the beginning and a waterfall of Rio Ibáñez [148.4/212] was also worth it.

From the point X [1.3/328] to the point X [5.5/554] we ascent on the minor road. The rest of this section is on the paved road.

CHALLENGES: Monotonous walk on the paved road.

BIVOUACING: There is a fence along the road most of the time, but it's possible to find some quiet places on the pastures. We spent the only night here:

WATER: Water from the nearby lakes, eventually from Rio Ibáñez. There are almost no small streams close to the road.

RESUPPLY: There is a well stocked store in the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, called 'Janito'. Close to there is a stylish foodtruck made of two old buses. There are more opportunities in Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (at least 2 stores and even more restaurants).

'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

'''25-02-19-25-02-23 / 4 days (interrupted)/ SOBO / OH 03B-RR/ Volker'''
Patagonia at its best (and its worst)

Day 0: After gpt32 and resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo too many people hitchhiking on the Carreterra, so I called Pedro Zuleta (+56 993 5786), who drove me for 20k to the start of 03B in the late afternoon. Walked until the pass at S 46.198129° W 72.357921° and camped there (nice place, but very windy).
Day 1: Light rain all the day long. Because of the weather I decided not to take the mountain route (OH07) and continued on the RR (though technically a MR, blocked for cars by fallen trees) and feels like a trail), one non-indicated (very easy) ford. With the rain getting heavier and only few feasible camp spots along the way, early camp at S 46.280118° W 72.435213°. Heavy rain all the night long.
Day 2: The day started with a non-indicated ford 50m behind my camp spot. All further river crossings (including the indicated ford at 52,0: dry feet, broken trees serving as a bridge). Weather better than forecasted, the light rain ceased during the morning and by noon the sun came out. Instead of following the track file and crossing the swampy meadow CC, I stayed on the left side, where a trail leads along the edge of the forest (not without stepping out on the meadow for the scenic view on Cerro los Pumas, which now came out of the clouds). A river bank at the end of the meadow allowed me to dry my tent and cook the warm meal I had skipped the evening before. After the puesto steep down and on the RR very nice along the river. After the steep ascent to the upper valley, though indicated as CC, the trail continues, partly along the river, partly more to the right, avoiding swamps. In the rocky parts, it‘s marked with cairns. My plan was to reach the indicated camp at 63,4, however a storm with hurricane-like blasts made the scrambling across rocks and broken trees very dangerous. Even in easy terrain I could hardly stand it. With a suicidal ford (one blast during the fording: game over) and 2km through wind-exposed rocky terrain ahead I found a flat spot in a wood at S 46.391614° W 72.494383°. Impossible to raise a tent without the protection of the dense wood! And it has to be a wood with young trees (many branches and even some trunks broke that night in forests with older and higher trees). Take this into account, when thinking about OH07 (and read the comments by Alexey, who opened up this route).
Day 3: Though the storm had subsided and the ford was doable, given the overall situation (3km of BB/CC, several fords, bad weather, possibly another storm in the afternoon and 90km ahead with a shortage of food, if slowed down too much by the conditions) I decided to walk back. Rain made the trail very swampy and slippery, 3 creeks, that I crossed dry feet the day before, now to be forded. Camped at the same spot as the day before.
Day 4: Rain the whole night long, not ceasing in the morning. I was very lucky: just arrived at the settler, where the MR gets passable for cars, when the same driver, who drove me to the start of 03B 4 days before, dropped 3 Chileans there (he had offered to drive me there for 70k) and gave me a free ride back to Villa CC.

* '''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

* ''' 2025-FEV-15 > 19 / 4 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 33-B > RR > 33-D > RR > 33-H > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil nuages et vent
| Eau : difficile au début
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : Rivière, éboulis

J'ai fais quelques courses et j'ai mangé au restaurant à Villa Cerro Castillo. Ensuite j'ai repris la randonnée. Attention l'eau est difficilement accessible car les lacs sont clôturés et en contrebas de la route. Sur la gravel road j'ai réussi à faire 4 km d'auto-stop. J'ai mal préparé ma randonnée et j'ai raté la 33-A. Mais je n'avais pas encore dépassé la 33-B alors je l'ai prise. Il y a un petit ruisseau devant le settler du km 0,7. Je n'ai pas pu faire de stop sur la gravel road car je n'ai vu aucun vehicule. Il y a un ford au km 36 quand le sentier traverse la rivière. Au km 52 un arbre permet de passer la rivière. Je suis passé par la 33-D pour aller voir les lacs. Je suis content d'avoir eu du soleil car la descente après le km 62 est vraiment raide sur des pierres lisse et des éboulis. Il n'y a pas de bush-bashing sur cette section du GPT. La descente après le lac se fait bien puis on entre dans un bois ou il n'y a pas de végétation au sol. Ensuite il faut suivre la rivière en marchand dans l'eau jusqu'au km 68,5 où la rivière se transforme en rapide et on trouve un sentier dans le sous-bois. Il faudrait trouver une autre couleur pour les sections de randonnées où on marche dans l'eau. Les fords des km 71,8, 73,5, 78,3 et 89,5 se font sans mettre les pieds dans l'eau. Le chemin est innondé au km 75,5, difficile à éviter car il est entouré de marais. Le ford du km 81,2 était dangereux car le courant était très fort même avec 60cm d'eau. Au km 98,5 il faut aller directement sur la plage. Le chemin le long du lac est parfois envahi par la végétation surtout dans les zones humide. A partir du km 130 c'est la gravel road peu frequentée X-735. J'ai eu du mal à faire de l'auto-stop mais j'ai reussi à faire les 15 derniers km avec un camion. Je n'ai pas pu m'arrêter à la cataracte du km 148,4, c'est mon seul regret car le vent était si violent que j'avais du mal à avancer.
FEV-20: Repos Coyhaique.

''' 2025-FEB-7 to 2025-FEB-15 / 8 hiking days / Hiking / SOBO / option 03B, RR, option 02 / Nimrod & Tamar '''

Good camps for bad weather (more info below): (-46.172528, -72.273827) Hut near km 52. puesto?[4.8/745] (-46.48726, -72.10065)

We think that its worth mentioning that if the weather is bad and you choose option 02 you should expect hard fords and having hard time following the trail until connecting back to RR.

Day 1:

Hitchhiked from Coyhaique - 3 rides 5 hours. Started walking at 17:00, camped at (-46.116414, -72216049). It was a little wind protected.

Day 02:

Rain all night and all day. Got a lift for 5 km by 2 chilean hikers that went to the Torres and back. Camped at: (-46.172528, -72.273827). Rain and wind all night and the camp location was well protected.

Day 03:

Finally sun came out, so we dried our gear. Camped at km 62. Great view and wind protection. The weather became bad again.

Day 04:

Started hailing in the morning and it should have became worse along the day. We climbed to the pass early in the morning. Got a glimpse of the Torres and made our way to camp at km 52. Near the camp there is an abandoned small hut where we stayed until the next day. The hut is well protected from rain and wind, and you can even make a fire inside.

Day 05:

Our Inreach forecast lied us (again...) and the rain didn't stop until evening. Took option 2 - Rio Avalleno. The river was swollen because of the rain and the fords were quite difficult for us. The trail was gone under the water in a lot of parts, and in some parts it was just CC. Track files was irrelevant in many parts. Camped at puesto?[4.8/745]. Like described before - it's actually a wooden built wall which protects from the wind. The wind was crazy and it gave us great wind protection to pitch our tent and to enjoy a fire.

Day 06:

Finally a nice day. Untill we connected to the RR the trail was in bad condition, and again the track files not very helpful. You can skip 2 fords at km 9 if you stick to the nice and visible trail on the east side.

Maria and Julio not at home. Camped at (-46.276123, -72.204873) There was some wind protection and no water.

Day 07:

At (-46.275422, -72.198820) we met Ricardo (we are not sure if he is a settler or a woreke), which kindly suggested to help us cross the Avellano on his horse back. The river was quite swollen from the rain but it's hard for us to say if it was crossable by foot. Camped at (-46.48726, -72.10065) by the small lake. The wind was strong and the campsite was well protected by the big rocks. We filtered water from the small lake/swamp. It might be flooded earlier in the season though.

Day 08:

Walked all the way to X[130.4/311] and camped near the junction. Not wind protected but the weather was good. There were a lot of water at variant N.

Woke up late and took the bus at 9:00. About one hour ride, 1000 clp. Times like MiaimZelt has written.

'''2025-Feb-02 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 8 / Tom'''

Day 1 - Rainy: I hitchhiked from Villa Castillo to the junction at the beginning of 3B. Great views, but if you can afford to pay for transportation to the end of the road, it's worth it. I camped at -46.2647991, -72.41223312025. Due to the rain, there were several streams, and some areas offered wind protection.

Day 2 - Rainy: A simple day, just following the route. Be mindful of the exit point from the road—I was focused on the rain and missed it. The Mallín (wetland) can be challenging at times, but nothing too difficult.

I arrived at Camp 57.2, where four students had waited for a day, hoping for clear skies.

Day 3 - Sunny: I started early, around 6:45 AM. It took about 2.5 hours to reach the viewpoint. Around -46.3870597, -72.4916724, there's a more recent landslide. Nothing too difficult, just loose rocks and fallen trees. Another 2.5 hours to return. On the same day, I started Opt 8 at 1 PM. This section took me 6.5 hours. It's a cattle trail, poorly marked—you really need to follow the GPS carefully, as there are many paths that lead nowhere. I recommend checking the contour lines since there is significant elevation gain. I arrived at Camp ? 11.6, which is Puesto Aguero—it appears to be in use, with sleeping bags and food inside. The camping area isn't ideal, as the ground retains a lot of moisture.

Day 4 - Rain/Sunny: I started at 2 PM when the rain stopped. The river was quite high, so unlike Michael and Kasia, I used the "punte" (a makeshift crossing). It's a fairly slender tree, but there's a rope to help with balance. I had no issues, but if the river were lower, I would have crossed directly through the water. At the beginning, the route is quite muddy but clear. The first half can be a bit more challenging at times, but the trail is well-marked towards the end. It took 4.5 hours to reach Bahía Muerta.

General Notes: From Route 7 to the Torres viewpoint, it's quite straightforward and well-marked. The difficult section is between Camp 57.2 and Camp ? 11.6. I know there's a route from Camp ? 11.6 to another viewpoint of the Torres, which is not included in current GPS tracks. It seems to be a trail that guides from Avellano Bahía Muerta are currently working on.

* '''2025 Jan / 4,5 days / SOBO / hiking/ opt. 3B, RR, opt. E / Al & Bee'''

It’s a beautiful route but it also consists of a considerable amount of road walking. The terrain before and after the Torres and some of the river crossings can be challenging depending on the conditions. This GPS track by Alex Chile on wikiloc was very helpful.

Day 01
We hitched a ride in the late afternoon from Villa Cerro Castillo along the Carretera Austral to the crossing with Camino Lago Lapparent (X at 18.6). From there on it’s a long way of gravel road walking. For camping we would not recommend the camp at 32.0 because it’s located on a fenced-off part of the trail. We camped in proximity to a small river at approximately (-46.25806, -72.38893).

Day 02
Late start, waiting out the rain in the morning. More road walking through the forest until X at 45.5. Then following a path through the forest on to an open valley with some cows. Some parts were boggy, at times it was easier to walk on the left side close to the forest. Some easy fording. Camp at 52.7 looked nice, lots of dead trees in that area. Route along river became more challenging at some point after X at 54.5 but it also started raining quite heavily then. Boulder fields to cross carefully, rocks were slippery in the rain. Behind the first boulder field, a stretch of (former) forest previously devastated by a storm, almost all trees uprooted. Reached the two lagoons as it was getting dark and camped at a beautiful spot close to camp at 61.2.

Day 03
The next morning peaks of the Torres were (still) covered in clouds, yet a beautiful sight. CC up to the pass at 62.0, beautiful views of the lagoon next to camp at 63.4 and the glacier. CC down the pass and through the boulder field required concentration but was fun, the weather was good. We were able to go around the snow field, which was then to our right. A bit further we encountered the same issue as described by MiaimZelt: our trails and the map didn’t match the terrain in the section with the waterfall. We also hiked down left of it. CC-descent close to lagoon and over boulder field. For the stretch along Rio Ventisquero to the trailhead we can really recommend the GPS track mentioned above. Countless (easy) river crossings, some riverbed walking, some boggy stretches. Nice horse trail after trailhead at 68.5. Fording at 69.8 was knee to thigh deep and manageable. After (easy) ford at 71.8 we took variant E because it seemed less overgrown. Easy horsetrail from there. Said hello to a settler. Camped right before ford at 81.2.

Day 04
Fords at 81.2 and particularly 81.4 were quite deep (thigh to hip high) and with strong current but manageable. Soon, easy walking on minor road. The road becomes bigger as you get closer to the lake. At the lake we enjoyed walking at the lake shore in the beginning before the path leads up to the hills. A perfectly windless day, the lake was extremely calm. The walk along and view of the lake was gorgeous and a highlight of the trail. Lots of creeks and beautiful waterfalls. We met two GPT-hikers heading the opposite direction and had a nice chat. Not many campsites available along the path. After a long day of walking we camped at 113.9.

Day 05
Late start, enjoying the lake in the morning. A little more ups and downs along the lake then ascended first on an overgrown minor road and then on one actually in use. Got water up the stream next to settler at 121.8. Along the last part of the dirt road we had a nice chat with local settlers who showed us some Calafate berry shrubs and offered us a ride to the junction with the road to Levican (X at 130.4). From there we had a transport.

'''2025-Jan-17 to 2025-Jan-21 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B RR + variant D + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus at 10 from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Option 03B. We'd hope to hitch the dirt road but we literally saw only one car.

Bridge 25.7km - good place to get water

Camped just before junction for option C (46.5km roughly) by the stream in the woods. Great wind protection.

49km to 50.8km - track files go CC but on OSM there's a trail we followed it and it worked well. CC route looked wet and boggy in places.

Ford 52km - lots of downed trees so can cross with dry feet.

Took variant D - easy and beautiful would recommend it.

Pass 60km small patch of snow on South side no problem without spikes

Camped at camp 63.4km - very beautiful but no wind protection, we were lucky the wind was pretty calm.

CC & BB 64.3 + 4.2 - we just stuck with the stream the whole way down worked out well.

Ford 81.2km - about 550m before the waypoint the trail gets close to the river for us it looked easy at this point so we just crossed here. Just over knee deep at 4pm on a hot sunny day, no rain for the past few days.

Took variant H to skip the other 2 fords.

Camped at 93.3km (S 46° 28.690', W 072° 11.674') nice grassy area with a small stream.

98.5km - shortly after leaving the road RR take you through some bushwhacking but it's avoidable just go straight to the beach.

Camped on the beach around 116km

Road walked to 138.5km where we saw the first car of the day and got a hitch to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''2025 Jan 02 to Jan 11 / 10 hiking days / SOBO, NOBO, WEBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 2, Opt 8 / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes:

A nice section with some great views and some good optionals. It is a fairly popular trail up to the Torres; we met 11 other hikers on the RR. Opt 2 is a really pretty and peaceful valley. Opt 8 is an adventurous alternative route, probably better to exit GPT33 than to enter it on full resupply weight.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -46.25532, -72.38365 (good water access, decent wind protection (look up before you set your tent, there were some widow makers), next to the road, no view)

Night 02: -46.34592, -72.49822 (Camp 57.2) (decent view, excellent water access, minimal wind protection, surrounded by dead trees, not safe in windy conditions, a lot of spots to choose from)

Night 03: -46.40655, -72.49601 (amazing view, decent water access, no wind protection)

Night 04: same as night 3

Night 05: -46.35732, -72.45379 (flat space for two tents, wind protected, just off the trail, water is a little ways away)

Night 06: -46.36802, -72.43937 (flat space for 2 tents, excellent wind protection, no view, water is a little ways away, accompanied by the sturdy arrieros shelter)

Night 07: same as night 6

Night 08: same as night 2

Night 09: -46.39734, -72.58201 (Camp ? 11.6) (not much truly flat space, but if you aren't picky there's lots of space, no wind protection, water is down a steep hill,next to the used puesto)

WATER:

On 3B and into RR on the road it was difficult to find at times. On all trail sections it was easy to find.

Day 01 - Jan 2nd

We got the bus from the terminal in Coyhaique. It was a bit of an ordeal. The buses hadn't been running for two days on account of the holiday, and we had not purchased tickets in advance. There was quite a line and it seemed they had been sold out much earlier. We went and talked to the driver after he finished loading most of the luggage. He said to give him a minute to check. He luckily had two empty seats to Cerro Castillo, and we paid him cash at the break point in Cerro Castillo, 8.000 pp, the normal price. He dropped us at the beginning of Opt 3B. There was a bus stop there. Opt 3B is a gravel road. There is some nice scenery, but overall it's a road walk. There isn't much traffic, but hitchhiking is possible. RR from km 24 where Opt 3B meets it is also gravel road until km 45.5. There isn't a huge grade and the road is in good condition, so it's easy if somewhat underwhelming walking. Water is not so easily accessible. All the little side creeks had dried up or were just water trickling through mud. Much of the time we were too high above the water, or it was fenced off. At km 24.9 there is an unmarked bridge. There was good water access there. There was also a very nice campsite there at (-46.21595, -72.34452). It had flat space for at least one tent, maybe two, trees and good water access close by. The next good water spot we found was at Settler 29.4. There was easy water access next to the bridge down to the barn. We didn't find water again until km 35.5 when we camped for the night. Camp 32.0 should be marked “Camp with No Water”. We did not see any water nearby or anything that looked like there is water at another time of year. At km 31.9 there was a locked gate with a No Trespassing sign, but a set of stairs to walk over the fence on the left hand side. The stairs were solid and in good condition. At km 32.9 was an easy open gate with a No Trespassing sign facing the other direction. It looked like someone had been working there recently, lots of fresh wood cuts, but we didn't see anyone. We camped just off the road at km 35.5 in a little clearing, just after a gate. There was access to the estero there.

Day 02 - Jan 3rd

We continued the road walk. The trail in the forest was very nice. The meadows were a little marshy but we moved through them fairly quickly. Ford 52.0 was easy, top of the calf and not much current. There was actually a fallen tree that could work as a bridge to do a dry foot crossing. We camped at Camp 52.7 next to a stream. This would not be a good site if it is windy. Fortunately we had a windless night. No issues finding water this day. We met three other hikers on their way out of Avellanos.

Day 03 - Jan 4th

The trail to the Trailhead 57.0 is easy to follow and, except in a few places, in good shape. There were a few places where it disappeared for a bit. Where they diverged, sometimes GPT track files were better, sometimes OSM, we just chose what seemed the most traveled. After Trailhead 57.0 the track is a little more difficult to follow. The OSM track was a little more accurate for the CC sections. There was only one ford at the end of the valley a little before it goes up into the woods, around km 59.3, just below the knee, not a strong current. The way through the woods at the end was difficult to follow. It is fairly overgrown in parts and we ended up walking a bit above the GPT track pushing through trees until the boulder field. We were trying to make it to Camp 61.2 above the pass. After the Trailhead 57.0 we did not see another suitable place to camp until close to Camp 61.2; everything was wet or on a slope, either covered in rock or trees. We camped at (-46.40655, -72.49601), about 400 m before Camp 61.2 in a flat area. There was no wind protection, but the night was calm. The site has a great view of the mountains and one of the lakes. We met five other hikers heading out over the course of the day.

Day 04 - Jan 5th

We did a packless day trip up to the pass to see the Torres. The weather was good, full sun and light wind. We spent about an hour on the pass. The Torres are nice; the one in the middle looked to us like it had the face of the rock eating monster from Neverending Story. As nice as the Torres were, we actually preferred the view on the mountains on the north side of the pass. On the way back down we looked at the area around Camp 61.2. We didn't really see any spaces suitable for a tent, certainly not for something the size of the X-Mid 2. There seemed to be a few options for bivys. There were strong gusts of wind in the night and part of our tent collapsed. We managed to get it back up and it stayed up for the rest of the night.

Day 05 - Jan 6th

We headed back NOBO on RR. We met Mia who was heading SOBO at the ford. It was nice to cross paths with another GPTer. At the X 54.5 we switched to Opt 2 Avellanos Bypass. We were interested to see the valley. The trail in places is in great shape, especially the higher areas, and in places non-existant, especially in low, wet areas, or where the river has washed it out. At one point we saw a huemul, our first one. It was walking up stream in the river very slowly and pausing often. We watched it for about 15 minutes before it finally got up on the hill on the opposite side and climbed into the trees. A little while later there was a huge waterfall coming down from one of the mountains. We camped in a sandy area under some trees a ways away from the river. All fords were more of a blessing in the scolding sun than a challenge. The riverbed moved in some places into the land where the GPS tracks were but it was very easy to navigate.

Day 06 - Jan 7th

We walked further downriver to Puesto ? 4.9. It is not actually a puesto, but a stopover half-shelter with fire pit for people driving animals. It was a great wind barrier, and a place to hang out on our rest/”waiting rain over” day. Just a few meters away we found a nice flat area with space for two tents that was very well wind protected and we were expecting 90 km/h winds to come next day. We left our packs and went further down river. The valley is really beautiful and has some great views. For a while the trail is in excellent condition, then it starts to disappear. It was not possible to follow the GPT track for all of it, but we found other paths. The river fords got increasingly more challenging as we went down stream. More drainages joined the river and added water. We turned around at Ford 8.2 and we noticed the increase in river level just over those few hours. The most difficult ford was mid-thigh with a good amount of current (at 6pm, earlier around 3 pm it was good 20 cm lower).

Day 07 - Jan 8th

We took a zero day. Rain and high wind all day. The camp site worked very well for inclement weather.

Day 08 - Jan 9th

We backtracked the rest of Opt 2 and arrived midday back at Camp 57.2. We were planning to exit 33H on Opt 8 but didn't want to start it the same day. We enjoyed a half rest day with sun and no wind at the campsite. We passed three other tents during the day.

Day 09 - Jan 10th

We started Opt 8 in the morning. For the first 7 km or so it is actually fairly easy to follow. The GPX tracks aren't always spot on, but we followed them as closely as we could and we managed to find the trail more often than not. The landslide seemed to be quite small and we just walked below it. The two fords at that point are just over a side stream, so probably dry foot crossable a little later in the season. Everything after that until Camp ? 11.6 where we stopped for the night was a bit of a challenge. In areas the trail is in excellent shape and then it just disappears into slopes of grass and blow downs. We would lose the track and CC for a while, finding it again a couple hundred meters on. I just walked with the Garmin in one hand for most of the way since I had to check it so frequently. The last few km to the campsite were very muddy. It ended up being a very long and very exhausting day. We did not see any serviceable campsites for our tent between the beginning and Camp ? 11.6. Camp ? 11.6 is a puesto with a sign saying it is called Puesto Agüero. There is also a sign saying “No Dejar Basura”, which we took to mean that the puesto is used, at least unofficially, for public camping, but just to pack your trash out. The site does not have good wind protection, but we had a windless night.

Day 10 - Jan 11th

Ford 11.5 had the same makeshift bridge that Maggie & Julien reported last season. We decided to ford instead of use the bridge. We forded a little lower than the waypoint. It was above the knee and with a fair amount of current. The path after the ford was generally very easy to follow. In the pastures we kept an eye on the GPS as there are animal trails that go all over, but in the forested areas it was very clear. It was very muddy for the first half and mostly dry for the second half. There are some nice views of the river along the way, and of the valley toward the end of the section. The MR at the end has been extended further up the valley and now starts about 1.5 km sooner than indicated in the track files. We walked into Puerto Murta around 18:30. We had no particular difficulty with Opt 8, and it was not overgrown enough that we wished we had a machete at any point. Though it doesn't look like it from the elevation profile in Gaia, due to the constant ups and downs there is an enormous amount of cumulative elevation gain and loss. For this reason we think that this is a much better option for exiting the section, so the pack can be as light as possible.

* '''2025 Jan 4th to Jan 9th / 5.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt D & E & H / MiaimZelt'''

This section indeed is a real gem, but also challenging. Weather was hot and sunny, too warm in my opinion.

Day 1: Wanted to hitchhike from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Opt 3B, but then a bus came an took me. Mostly boring hiking along a minor road.

Day 2: Continued along the minor road, soon it got smaller and wasn't passable for cars anymore. At -46.254893, -72.381462 is a new fence, theoretically it could be opened, but you need to be strong. I crawled under it... Here -46.260122, -72.397627 is a large rather open field with lot's of flat space to pitch a tent. Water nearby. -46.260547, -72.400255 small building, which was unoccupied. The horsetrail is in good condition. Camped here: -46.352094, -72.488826, but there is only space for small tents.

Day 3: The ascend in the forest was also in good condition. Later you have to sharpen your eyes and look for the cairns. Met Kasia and Michael, was nice to meet other GPT hikers. Option D is marked with cairns, but there is no trail and i had to cross the river 2 more times. Especially the first lake is a real gem.
Hike up to the pass was not difficult, just take your time.
Way down is more challenging. I had to cross a large and steep patch of snow, which was ok without microspikes. Than you have to climb down a steep slope with lots of boulders, but they have good traction. The middle part was the hardest, because both smartphone and Garmin didn't show my correct position and wanted me to hike down a small waterfall. According to the smartphone there had to be a lake, but there was a forest instead, which wasn't shown neither on the Garmin nor on the Smartphone. Hiked down left of the waterfall, which looked much safer. The last part before you arrive at the glacier lagoon, is a large field of XXL-boulders which you have to cross. The views at the lake were awesome!
The bushbashing was mostly easy or at least not difficult. The worst was the stretch along Rio Ventisquero to the Trailhead. In the beginning i tried to walk in the riverbed, which often means to walk in the river, not just crossing the river. But when a 2nd river was added, the water was up to middle thigh and had a stromg current - not a good idea to continue this way. Hiked at the left side in the forest instead. Sometimes there was a vague animal trail, but it disappeared very often. This was really annoying with a lot of bushbashing. Camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766].

Day 4: Crossing of Rio Ventisquero was just up to my knees and not diffucult. Enjoyed the horsetrail along Rio Avellano, but i took Option E, because the RR was i overgrown in this area. Option E is in better condition. Didn't met Maria & Julio, later i saw to guys on horseback. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was up to my crotch (i'm 1.74cm) and had a strong current, but i made it. My feet had traction, but couldn't place my trekkingpoles correctly due to the strong current. You have to cross 3 times here, but the other two were easy.
The Minor road is not like a real road, it's more a 4x4 track used by horses with sandy ground and vegetation in the middle. It's hard to find a camp at this minor road, because of the thorny vegetation. Camped here: -46.478173, -72.19456. It's a patch of flat gras with enough space for several tents, has a small stream and good protection from the wind.

Day 5: According to my Inreach the wind gusts should reach up to 101km/h. Was indeed very windy, but fortunately it came from the back and the wind was warm. The trail along Lago General Carrera is very scenic and mostly visible, but also strenuous. Some (fortunately very short parts) are badly overgrown - a machete would be useful. Almost every plant in this area has thorns. The ups and downs a very steep, which i didn't like in the heat. Lot's of water. Used Camp {33H} [116.3/239] which has a great protection from the wind. But be aware of the thorny plants while searching where to pitch you tent - there are only 2 places without them.

Day 6: The last stretch until the minor road was much faster. The first part of the minor road has vegetation on it and isn't used by cars. Brought all the water from the lake, but it wasn't necessary. Small streams here: -46.403664, -71.975755 and next to the road at Settler {33H} [121.8/643]. The settler wasn't at home and the wooden gates were locked, had to climb over them. There are several minor roads, not just one. Bridge {33H} [129.3/304] is a deep canyon, didn't see a possibility to get water there. Walked two hours along the road between Levican and Puerto Ibañez, until i got a hitch.

* '''Dec 6-11 / 03B + RR SOBO / wiiiim'''

Great route, still early season, weather was sunny but still cold, rivers were low, the infamous crossing of the lower rio Avellano just above knee height.
The crux of the route was the South side of the pass, sections of snow, I crossed later in the day when it was softer, avoided most of the snow on the East rock flank, but around 1200m the rock slabs were wet & the gullies in between were filled with snow. A bit of a maze, it took some time and back tracking, I used micro spikes but its probably okay without, I think knowing how to self arrest on snow with hiking poles is always a good skill to have, lots of videos exist on that.
Laguna la Plaza is a short/easy side trip well worth it, the North side of the pass is fast going & pretty well indicated (ciarns), on the South side section of CC once on the valley floor it seems easier to wade through the (spectacular) river.
I was pleasantly surprised with the walk along the lake, it’s really different and beautiful.
I was lucky to get a ride out from the MR to Puerto Ibáñez quite quickly from around -46.36065, -71.90255 but it’s usually very quiet.

At -46.26604, -72.41735 there is an established rock bivvy that could also fit a medium size tent.

Overall I would probably recommend the regular route NOBO to cut out most of the start/end road sections: organise a ride from Puerto Ibanez to the trail head (it will be worth the money) and on the other end the finish of 03B on the carretera austral will have plenty of traffic to hitch a ride

• '''2024-Dec-09 to 2024-Dec-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt.A + Opt.01A + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Following the road to Puerto Ibáñez
Just a little difficulty about finding water because most of lakes and rivers are private now.

* '''2024-Nov-28 to 30 / 3 day / Hiking / Circuit / GPT33H Option 5 and 5A Valle Miller from Puerto Alarcon to Valle Jaramillo and return to Puerto Sanchez / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

The Cordillera de Avallano between Rio Ibanez and Lago General Carrera is one of the hidden treasures of Patagonia. And Valle Miller is one possible entrance into this mountain range.

After packrafting to Puerto Alarcon we packed our packrafting gear and hiked up Valle Miller along the minor road to the bridge over Rio Miller to crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]”. There are numerous possible camp sites and water sources along this minor road.

A few hundred meters after crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]” is the last pasture with suitable camp sites.

Valle Jaramillo is a very scenic side valley of Valle Miller that can be explored in one day.

This side valley has no distinct trail but the forest is reasonably open. Therefore ascending and descending through the forest is not really bush bashing but just a slalom around the numerous fallen trees.

Once the open terrain is reached, hikers can see the very scenic valley with some remaining smaller glaciers.

The cross country walk to the 1679 m high pass is very rewarding in good weather. From an altitude of 1400 m the terrain was in parts covered by snow fields as we visited this early in the season.

We returned to Puerto Sanchez which is the alternative starting Point for hikers.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024 Mar 22 to 2024 Mar 28 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi, Tom and Jordan'''

Day 1: Got the public bus from Puerto Ibanez to Levican for about 1000CLP each. We were the only ones on the bus and the driver dropped us at the trailhead. After walking along the road for a while we miraculously got a hitch in the back of a pick up for a couple of kms. Trail down to the lake was a little confusing but just head down and you'll hit the main trail eventually. Trail along the lake has plenty of up and down but nothing too strenuous. We had a perfect, windless day with not too much sun so it was pretty easy going, plenty of spots to get water once down near the lake. The notes said there was some scary exposure but we didn't really encounter any along this section, the path is pretty solid and clearly used by horses. Set up camp on the lake on the small rocky beach at (-46.47634,-72.08138). Just enough room for our Zpacks Triplex and Jordan's free standing tent. Jordan caught a fish that night but chucked it back.

Day 2: Great sunrise over the lake but then it started to rain. Jordan caught another fish which the boys had for breakfast. Walked along the lake in light rain until the old road where we went up the steep hill and started inland. One apple tree along this section but the apples weren't great. Followed the disused road until the end and then started along the track. Hit our first ford at about (-46.46161,-72.24620) which was above the knee on me (174cm tall) and quite fast flowing/muddy from all the rain. Tom slipped climbing up the bank here and fell backwards into the water but somehow avoided getting swept away. Kept walking along until we hit the refugio, unfortunately it was locked. Set up camp next to it so we could use the porch for shelter then went to scout the next ford just past it. This one was way too high and fast to cross so we were hoping it would go down overnight. Rio Avellano also looked impossible but that was a problem for the next day.

Day 3: Luckily the tributary into the Rio Avellano had gone down significantly overnight and we were able to cross without issues, although it was still fairly fast flowing at about knee height. Had a go at crossing the Rio Avellano just after this ford where it is marked on the GPX and others had mentioned it was doable but we had no luck, even employing the three astern. Decided to try the settler's place up on the hill to see if we could get help crossing but noone seemed to be around. Kept following the track along the river, hoping for a place to cross. Jordan somehow manage to cross using the eddies formed by a large tree that had fallen into the river. He had to come back across to help me get over with Tom but it was a near miss. Water level just below hip and quite fast flowing. Massive relief to make it across and get to enjoy the sun a bit. Had lunch near Maria and Julio's but still didn't run into anyone other than sheep. Enjoyed an awesome section walking along through ankle deep water in the autumn colours with snowy peaks in the background. Hit another fairly fast flowing ford, just above the knee, but manageable now we were getting good at crossing 3 astern. Thought we would make it to camp just below the towers but unfortunately hit another ford that even Jordan couldn't cross. Much higher consequence with huge rapids downstream and the water level above the hip. Tried to walk upstream a km or so to see if we could cross but ends up high above the river as it enters a canyon section. Scrambled back down and camped for the night on the track in the forest with the hope of lower water in the morning.

Day 4: Water was much lower in the morning and we were able to cross with no issues. Still over the knee and fast flowing but the group of 3 works wonders. Headed into the forest and up past the old corral then into the swampy section. This was super rough going as the swamp was over the knee in parts. We constantly switched between climbing between the tangle of tree or wading through the swamp. It was raining lightly and getting quite cold by this point. We made it to a clearing along the river at about 11am but the towers were in complete fog and I was shivering hard. Decided to set up camp in the forest and try for the towers the next day in the hope of more visibility. Found a nice camp spot in the forest at (-46.42932,-72.49572) with easy access to the river for water. Snuggled down to try to warm up all afternoon, only emerging for meals.

Day 5: Set off through the forest up towards the towers. Says bush bashing but was actually pretty easy walking up the hill. Towers still in a bit of cloud but made it up there mid morning and spent some time scrambling around the lake to take a look around. Camp site in the rocks was flooded from yesterday so glad we didn't try to get up there to camp. Scramble over the boulder field and up to the pass isn't too bad, although some snow patches made it a bit slippery. Cool granite slabs on the way up. Super windy once we got over the pass so hurried down the valley. No navigation issues but definitely got wet feet walking along the river. Camped at the refugio.

Day 6: Hiked along clear trail until we got to the minor road. Hoped to get a rare hitch but didn't really see anyone. Decided to hike along the river just before the bridge toward Lago Lapparent to find somewhere to camp. Found a few awesome spots along the crystal clear water for our last night.

Day 7: Headed back to the road and followed it back to the Carretera Austral. Got a hitch in about 15 minutes all the way to Coyhaique but there is a bus stop there if you can time it right.

* '''2024-02-23 to 2024-02-27 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B + RR + OH08 / Maggie & Julian '''

Trail attractiveness: 4/5;
Difficulty: 3/5
(keep in mind that this is our first GPT hike)

Day 1: ‘GPT33H-03B start’ to (-46.2570, -72.3711):

We entered from Carretera Austral at Laguna Verde (Option 03B) after being dropped off by the morning bus from Coyhaique (heading to Cochrane). Arrived at the crossroads at 11:30am with Don Carlos bus.
Whole day was walking on roads and relatively easy to make distance.
At (-46.2671, -72.3561) there was a sign reading "se prohibe la entrada al predio" and a locked gate with a ladder to climb over the side. There is a campsite (Camp, X {33H} [32.0/700]) pinned shortly after, but we decided to keep going because of the sign. At (-46.2621, -72.3613) there is an end to the property (same sign facing opposite direction, no gate). We camped on an area used for chopping wood at (-46.2570, -72.3711). Short scramble down to the river.

Day 2: (-46.2570, -72.3711) to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]:

Large part of the day was also road walking, afterwards trails and some cross country.
Camped by Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Camping around Puesto {33H} [53.0/946] has better mountain views, Puesto itself was being used, possibly for guided horseback trekking.

Day 3: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and back:

We left our tent set up and most things at Camp. The way up was sometimes hard to find. Trail markers made more sense on the return. Had an extended lunch a little after Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and then returned the way we had come.

Day 4: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548]:

Probably hardest day in navigation, trail disappeared often, but manageable.
The former landslide section at (-46.3853, -72.5520) did not pose any difficulties for us as the water level was not too high and the main river flow now goes near the northwestern side of the valley. We just had to step over the remaining side stream. With more water some fording might still be necessary, but I imagine you could get away with staying near the southeastern bank for this section.
At Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] there is a puesto that seems to be in use, but we saw no one and camped a little lower near the river.

Day 5: Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] to ‘GPT33H-08 start’:

Right after camp there was a makeshift bridge to cross the stream (tree and rope, very rickety).
Trail seemed to be used and maintained on this part of option 08.
Shortly before Camp {33H-08} [6.9/435] there was a previously washed-out section with a new path already laid out. In heavy rainfall this could wash out again but should not pose a big hindrance.

Notes:

- RR + option 08 is a great short alternative without much backtracking.

- Our hitch out of Puerto Murta happened to be local members of an association that wants to bring more tourism to their town and the Torres del Avellano. If their plans are fruitful, traffic and trail maintenance may increase on option 08.

- We organized the transport of our non-trekking items from Coyhaique to Puerto Río Tranquilo by encomienda. Ines, the lady working at the Sao Paulo bus office in Coyhaique terminal was kind enough to hold our boxes until we arrived and called her from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Our things arrived the day after we called at around 1pm. We shipped a rather large quantity of items (enough items to fill 50L bag) for 12000 CLP. Sao Paulo bus Coyhaique telephone: +56 672 255 726

* '''30/01/2024 - 01/02/2024 / 3 days, 78 km / Options 06 and 07 / Alex + Andrey'''
South bound (east bound).
“Mountain route”,

a combination of Options 06 and 07 which are now passed and confirmed.

Difficulty: Difficult/Very Difficult

Most of the route is off-trail
Thanks to Jan for the suggested routes and clues.
Short resume:

This mountain route is a more difficult and demanding alternative to the regular route but can be an interesting option for those looking for a challenge.
The combination with a regular route allows to form a full-fledged “eight”, a trip of 6-10 days.

Option 07 is a shorter, although more difficult, alternative to the regular route in case the Avellano River cannot be forded NOBO.
Notes and recommendations.

Option 07:

All fords do not pose any significant difficulty.
Due to the height and southern exposure the areas between Pass 1 and Pass 2 (Pass {33H-07} [17.0/1755]) and descents from Pass 2 in the early to mid-season have extensive areas of snow where microspikes or crampons may be required.
The main difficulty on the descent is overcoming several side washouts, which are small but deep and steep canyons.

Option 06:

There is no water during the first 4-5 hours of ascent to the valley.
The open area of the upper valley at Camp 2 and beyond throughout the ridge is a resort for very strong winds. Setting up camp may be difficult or impossible. A strong hiker can combine and complete this section in one day.
The predominant wind exposure makes passage from west to east highly recommended.
The last reliable source of water is before reaching High Pass 3. Further east there is no water until the junction with the regular route, except for temporary streams from seasonal snow.

The track and additional information are here:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/avellano-mountain-route-chilean-patagonia-160489118

* '''2024-Mar-04 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 03B + RR + OH D + K / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH33H-03B + RR [24.2-41.2]

I tried to hitch from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of OH33H-03B. After 1 hour a Bus arrived and took me to the start for 2000 Pesos. The Bus runs from Cohayique to Chile Chico on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It starts in Coyhaique at 9 am and stopps in Villa Cerro Castillo at around 10:30 am. From the brigde at km 25.7 until km 35.8 there is no water on the RR. You walk close to some rivers but I didn't check if its possible to acces them. After km 35.8 there is plenty of water. At km 38.5 is a big flat field for camping with a creek next to it. I camped just before the crossing of the river at km 41.2.

Day 2: RR [41.2-58.3] + OH33H-D + RR [61.0-63.4]

There was plenty of water all along the trail. Camping possible at -46.291963, -72.470389 just before the Pass (km 44.4), at the start of OH33H-C and along the CC section from km 49.0 to 50.8. I can recommend OH33H-D. I especially liked the first Laguna. Camp 63.4 has awesome views, but is only slightly wind protected and the spots are only good for small tents.

Day 3: RR [63.4-93.2]

I stayed inside the riverbed for the last 2.5 km of the CC&BB section. I had to cross the river about 20 times, but its the fastest and easiest way. The ford at km 83.6 was just below my crotch (I am 191 cm) and the current was pretty strong at around 5 pm. It would have been difficult for smaller persons. All the other fords today were at max. knee hight. There is plenty of water all along the route. I camped next to the RR on a flat, grassy field at km 93.2.

Day 4: RR [93.2-116.3]

Plenty of water along this part of the RR.

Day 5: RR [116.3-119.6] + OH33H-K + RR [122.6-141.0]

OH33H-K is easy to walk but does not offer any great views. If you choose OH33H-K, than there is no water between km 117.5 and 138.5 (at km 135.2 is a water marker, but I didn't see any as I walked by. Maybe I missed it, because I wasn't looking for it). There is water at km 140.3. I got a hitch from km 141.0 to Puerto Ibanez. But there are very few cars on the road, so don't count on getting a hitch.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 03B, RR, Variant C, E, H, K / Tomáš & Natalie'''
There was a queue of three hitchhiker groups who did not get picked up while we were doing our shopping, so we opted to hire a taxi for 15000 to the start of 03B (Pedro Zuleta: +56 993 5786 68). Somehow, during our arranging of the taxi, all three groups left. Roadwalking to option 07 was uneventful. Tomáš got a hitch (he eats lunch too slowly so Natalie got ahead) for about 5 km from a family which was exploring in a car. About 500 m before the diversion to option 07, there is a locked gate with a sign saying the property is private, but one can go over a ladder. At the gate, we met a local with a key who has a house on Option 07, if we got him right. He gave us a ride of 500 m. The start of option 7 is actually a road.

The MR at 24.2 is in a bad shape due to erosion after ford at about 12 km in. Tomáš made a bridge out of a log but managed to jump into the water while doing it. Enjoy the bridge while it lasts as did a Frenchman we met there. He did the circuit NOBO based on Wikiloc. He said he keeps coming across GPT, but could not figure out how to get the GPS route. We told him to talk to Jan. Maybe he will come back the next season.

On the way to the Torres, we met 3 pairs of Chilean hikers going back. Tomáš went to Laguna La Plaza (option C). Lake is grey but the valley is nice enough to justify the short detour. It is no BB, there is a trail in the forest and above the tree line a vague trail or easy CC. The Torres are indeed magnificent. One can easily walk on the sloped polished slab falling into the far side of the second lake before the pass - it is an exhilirating detour. Going down from the pass, when the GPX turns right, Tomáš actually managed to walk over one of the ledges above the GPX and liked it. Just be extremely careful with moss and water, they can make the stones extremely slippery, but he survived that without falling. About 100 m before the lake, there is a at-least-a-ton heavy swing in the form of a loose boulder. Enjoy if you can find it. Camp 63.4 is literally awesome. We had a very warm almost windless night there.

After the boulder field under camp 63 we loss the rest of the elevation on the right side of the creek and then when the swamp appeared on the right we went to the left and stayed on that side (North) for the entire BB/CC. There is a vague trail most of the way, but is has many many logs over it. It took us 3 hours to walk to the trailhead. We kept our feet dry and were in the shade, but it would have been quicker and far less tiring just following the riverbed and constantly crossing the river.

Ford at 69.8 around noon was slightly above the knees. Ford it diagonally as the trail wants you to - it is shallower that way (ie a little further down than where the trail spits you out). Greeted grandfather, Maria and Julio and their three kids and had a short talk with the grandfather, nice to see the whole family working together on projects. From their place, the trail sort of is wide enough for a car (there is one at their place) but we think it is never or virtually never used by cars. Ford at 81.4 at six in the afternoon was 5 cm under our crotches (we are about 1.70), we forded about 100 upstream of GPX. The river was strong but we did not feel it was dangerous for us. We forded the widest part of the river just before a dead end fence (if you are coming from the other direction, after the grey river and around the dead end ford you will see the widest part of the river).The day was hot and despite not covering even 20 km, we felt superexhausted. Strong sun and spikees got to us!

We camped about 4 km along the road, shortly after the second (both jumpable) ford. It must be a good place to camp, as Tomáš, who went back to the big ford where he left his sandals the previous day, met a GPT hiker going NOBO who apparently slept in a hearing distance from us. The hiker first started to come to Patagonia decades ago, before it was overrun. Tomáš sadly never asked his name. Met the grandfather again, coming back from the port, horses are fast!

The road is not used by cars but stiĺl quite ugly. Around middle, near option 6, there are two shortcuts (400 and 50 metres) to the zigzags, three of which were marked by cairns by Tomáš. Please add the fourth cairn. Puesto 98.3 is a settler. He offered Natalie to come inside and rest but she didn't feel right stopping at that moment and kind of got the "heeby jeebies" from him. Met another pair of GPT hikers, doing just 33. The stretch along the coast is beautiful and very Mediterranean. All day the lake was without waves, even that can happen. Slept at Lake 113.8: nicer, with water and less buggy than camp 200 m earlier (just beware if the wind picks, up the waves can be very loud).

Variant K misses last water but is easy to follow, nicer than a road and involves only three very easy fence hops. Reached the bus stop for Puerto Ibanez around three. Got lucky and received a hitch from two British tourists to Puerto Ibanez. The shops there are larger than expected and stock overpriced pesto and gnocchi, Tomáš is almost as joyful as cherries make him!

Nat's Notes:

- For views I would prefer this NOBO. I suffered a new type of "look back" syndrom on most of the route. Plus, if you are walking the lake shore in the afternoon, the sun should be on your downhills and not your uphills (it was insanely hot when we did it and without a whisper of wind).

- In the section notes for km24-45 I think what was meant was that from roughly km36-45, "there are many small streams and camping spots", this is indeed true. However, between km 24-36 and option 3 there are NO longer many STREAMS to drink from, I remember only one slightly decent one and both sides of the road are fenced so if you want to camp or drink water from the main river, then you must jump the fences (cow panels or barb) or ask a settler. Also, strange to say, there is very little shade and can get uncomfortably hot...

- Intersection 45 is not hard to miss anymore, it is marked with an orange ribbon around a tree and a large cairn on your left.

- On Trail#9 (ascent before the first two alpine lakes) I took Veronicas advice about going into the woods where the RR is but rather than trying to follow the GPS, I followed what seemed to be a trail along the creek with some cairns here and there. Eventually it ends above the trees but you should be able to make your way back to the RR once the "coast is clear", ie. no more trees. If you want to walk along the lake then you should do the CC up the boulder field on Variant D.

- Going down from the pass was no problem, like everyone says, "just follow the gps". However with that said, it is very tempting to make your own way bcs there are many good looking ledge systems but after reading Wills experience, I backed away from the temptation and followed the GPS. I also slipped on some wet moss on RR.

- So much water everywhere except for the lake camping, if you are smart you will fill up on one of the many streams before getting to the lake...

- When doing the BB/CC section, after the initial elevation loss from the lake, there isn't much drinking water apart from the river until near the end of the BB. I think you could make "makeshift" camps. I was tempted to cross the river early to avoid crossing it at km69 but once again I remembered what Will wrote last year about the thorns and cliffs so I don't think that's a good idea.

- Not a fan of the lakeside gate locking technique (remember how it looks before you open it;)

- I surprisingly really enjoyed the lake stretch, it seemed it is where Pantagonia meets the Mediterranean/Arizona. The trail is in good shape, just a few overgrown roses and thorny bushes here and there (regretted shorts only a little bit). If you are coming from the north and still have your sand gaiters, this will be a good time to reuse them :). No exposure, wish there was more wind the day we were there. I am usually the biggest hater of "PUDs" - thanks for the new word - but these were not annoying. These PUDs are just a few large hills rather than a bunch of steep micro hills like gpt22 or the valley bottoms in Argentina. Water is at pretty much every "notch" in the hillside.

- Water is at the bottom of the MR~117.5 and there is still water at the top 119.9 RR (easier to grab it a little higher up).

* '''2024-Jan-30 to 2024-Feb-4 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : gpx easy to follow / between km 63,7 and km 68,5 we mostly stayed on the left of the river
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : easy to find and the one at km 68.7 is nice // the refugio near the lake at km 98.5 is perfect - make fire, sleep inside, we even could ask for some bread
- Weather : some rainy and cloudy days but overall the weather was ok
- River crossing :at km 69.8 we crossed the river early in the morning and the current was strong and the water up to the middle of the thighs but manageable // at km 81,2 the river was strong and up to our hips, we crossed it in the rain, it was also manageable for us that already jave a little bit of experience
- Resupply : in Villa Cerro Castillo and in Chile Chico ( a bulk shop just opened in front of the camping Nandu) // at km 76,7 we could buy some bread, cheese and eggs at Maria and Julio's house
- Overall : we absolutely loved this section ! The views are spectacular and really diverse from one day to another // we got a hitchike at the end on the gravel road to go to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''01.27.2024 / 5 days / Hiking / SoBo / RR + Option 8 to Bahía Murta / Milton Cea + 4 more'''

Considering that we would venture to make this route a journey from Villa Cerro Castillo to Bahía Murta, we have decided to pay Pedro Zuleta, who is dedicated to transportation in the surrounding areas (+56 9 9357 8668), to take us to the entrance of the route at the registration booth. There, we encountered a pair of muleteers who did not pay much attention to our passing, however, we spoke with them to ask for their permission and inquire about the condition of the path.

We started with the regular route, a bit late, and for that reason, we camped the first night at Mallín Grande, which is a very good option, as watching the sunrise in this beautiful place is worthwhile.

Starting early the next day, we reached the "Los puestos" sector and from there, leaving our camp set up, we headed towards the towers. We were only able to reach the first lagoon at the base of the massif, as we went a bit late and our conversation with some other hikers we met extended. I would recommend leaving early to take advantage of the views from the portezuelo lookout.

The next day we began the crossing through the "Río Resbalón" Valley, as the locals call it, following an animal trail that sometimes tends to get lost among new vegetation or fallen trees, accompanied by other hikers who decided to join the journey.
It is a part of the route that can be slightly complex if you do not have a good reading of the surroundings, finding the animal traffic trail, and considering that you navigate through a forest that can easily disorient. This changes when you already walk with the "Resbalin/Resbalón" river to your right, as it is quite useful to follow its course. Always on the left side of the river.
On the way, there are some fallen trees and abandoned muleteer posts that can be used as camping space if necessary, although I would not recommend camping in this old forest.
Upon reaching the point of the road collapse, the crossing of the scree can be done at the level of its arrival, but to continue the route, you must climb a few meters up the mountain until you find the entrance to the continuation of the route. This point took some time from us, and we decided to camp near the river, towards the rock beach in the middle of a young forest with a mossy floor, very comfortable and restorative. We also decided to place some pircas at this point, as there was no mark to help resume the path towards Murta, since the difference in height was noticeable and it can be easy to believe that the path continues by the river side, but no, from here the path separates from the river and goes up the mountain.

Finally, after this last abandoned stretch, where the vegetation is abundant in some parts, we ended up arriving at the Puesto de Los Agüeros and decided to spend a night there, as we were very tired from constantly finding the route. It's worth mentioning that we couldn't find a GPS track before the trip.

The next day, after a night of intense rain, we took the official route traced from "Bahía Murta" at opossite direction and arrived in the town at dusk.
If you want the track and the Waypoints of the journey, feel free to write to me at '''milton.1902@gmail.com''' =)

* '''From 2023-01-20 to 2023-01-21 // 1,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // option 1 Valle Ibanez // Quentin Clavel'''

When I arrived in Puerto Ingeniero Ibàñez, I had to make a choice, as the weather window were pretty short. I had only 3 days and a half ahead of nice weather followed by one entire week of rain.

So I made the hard choice to skip Torres del Avelano, and go straight to Cerro Castillo by the OPT1 to explore the NP of CERRO CASTILLO.

This section was not so bad. Even if it was gravel road until the Lago tamango, I had nice views, and was not too bored from this stretch, but well yeah, it's gravel road for 30 km, so of course it was not all the time so funny aha !

Then I went to the small track along Lago tamango. Very quiet, pretty well marked thanks to these sticks with red and white colours on top, and with some scenic views.

You'll end up at the parking of the touristic sendero sitio archeologico de manos pintadas (Paredón de las Manos (1000CLP for children's, 2000CLP for adults. From Tuesday to Sunday 10h00-17h00). Then it's gravel road, following by 1,3 km on the carretera austral to reach Villa cerro castillo.

I was expecting worse for this section. Quite happy about it. That's a nice alternative if, for a reason, you want or have to skip Torres de Avelano

* '''2024-Jan- 14 to 2024-Jan-16/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ 33h/ 33h-b/33h-a/ 33h-P/Paulina'''

At first, I wanted to do RR, but as the recent reports about the river crossing where not very encouraging, I decided to play it safelty, so I just mixed some sections.
I started in Villa Cerro Castillo, till X 33h [ 5.5/554] it was a very peaceful, nice trail, with beautiful views on Cerra Castillo. There were some fence crossing, but not very annoying.
After the intersection, so once I joined the road X-725, it was less interesting, walk on a gravel road. I think this part of RR is better to hitch-hike ( it's possible and not very difficult to catch a car on this way).
Once I reached the big lakes ( beautiful views!) and some wanderful camping spots [ S 46.17790 W 072.32049] between Lago Alto and Lago Lapparet, I took 33h-b. At the beginning the trail was l crossing a forest used by locals as wood supply, but later ( around the place where it joined 33h-a), the landscape was amazing! Especially the part with lakes and settlers.

The last section was on 33h-01A. The cannion of Rio Claro and later the waterfall are beautiful, but for some hikers a long distance on gravel road on this section can be annoying so it's probably better to hitch-hike ( not a lot of cars but still possible).

I bought my ticket for ferry from Puerto Ibanez to Chile Chico without any problem 1h30 before the ferry departure.

The mix of these 4 sections + hitch-hiking it's a good option for bad weather or high river level on RR. Some parts are very beautiful, and the less interesting parts ( long distances on gravel roads) it's possible to cover by car.

* '''2024-01-02 to 2024-01-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Options: 03, 03B, 04C, 04 & Variant E / Roman'''

Route: Hitchhiked along Option 03 to X {33H-03} [18.6/315]. Hiked via Option 03B to X {33H} [24.2/462] and than continued RR to Ford, X {33H} [71.8/602]. Here used Variant E and back to RR all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz). Continued on Option 04C to X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. From here used option 04 all to way to Bahía Murta.

Decided to go SoBo to get the tricky parts done with a good weather forecast. Hitchhiked along Option 03 because it's easier to get a lift. Was at X {33H-03} [18.6/315] 12:35 PM. From there it's a super easy to hike street all the way to X {33H} [45.5/1088] via Option 03C and than 03. Sadly there where no cars going in the correct direction. Towards the end (last 5km) there are some rivers crossing the street, nothing bad, you can get over them dry feet if jumping on the rocks. Continued the RR, the trail is clearly visible and easy to hike all the way to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Arrived there at 09:30 PM. It's a awsome place to pitch a tent! It was absolutely woth it to go for such a long day. Met 2 locals who went with a truck all the way to this point: -46.26754, -72.419667. Met also Cy & GG (see GPT 23). We continued the next day. Trail was in a good condition and CC was easy no snow up to the pass Pass {33H} [62.0/1314]. Absolutely beautiful view! There is some snow on the south side on the way down. It's mostly melted to you can decide if you want the first 150-200m of elevation go down in snow or trough the boulders. It was a sunny day therefore quite easy to get down to the lake. From there we went down a boulder field to the BB (Bush bashing) section (400m). This is trivial - no macheta required. It's just walking trough the forest. From there the CC&BB is at the beginning easy. We found a animal trail on the southern side of the river. Than the swamp started which was annoying. We started, after finishing the swamp section, to walk in the river bed around here -46.438037, -72.469247 which was fast progress but wet feet. Jumped on the trail and camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766]. There is a lot of water at the river and it's just a 10 minute walk so we filled the bottles. The Camp is good, stayed there with 3 tents. Continued the next day (it was moderate rain during the night and at the morning) to the X, Ford {33H} [69.8/634]. This was at the limit what is safely possible. Fast flowing river - hip deep (iam 180). From there on the trail was clearly visible and easy to hike fast. Continued the RR and did Variant E. Check you GPS, we didn’t intend to do it we just followed the most clearly visible trail and ended up at the Puesto {33H-E} [0.8/619] so we continued. The statement from above is still valid all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz) for the RR ;). After that is a easy trail, at Settler {33H} [76.7/535] (Maria & Julio) I met Julio and they had a car there to the trail from this point on is even easier. I split up here with Cy & GG because of different plans and it was questionable if the Ford at Ford {33H} [81.2/490] (Rio Avellano) is even possible so I wanted to speed up. Reached the point around 05:00 PM. It was not possible to Ford - way to deep and to much current! So I used my packraft and crossed the river. Got in the water here: -46.456627, -72.320677 and followed than the RR. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was also impossible by foot. Used the same tactic and crossed it by boat. Got in the water here: -46.453523, -72.316373 and crossed by boat. After that easy trail and continued the RR. Ford {33H} [83.6/467] (Rio Avellano) was also absolutely impossible so also did it by boat. After that I camped here: -46.463767, -72.26597.

interim conclusion: if the weather is not stable (I knew it wasn't [would reccomend checking with meteoblue] go SoBo and be aware that the crossing can be impossible - I would reccomend bringing you packraft so you habe more options even though it's the H route. Otherwise you have to wait, potentially for days or you need the help of a local (this is how Cy & GG managed it).

Next day continued 04C. The trail to the pass is clearly visible and beautiful to hike. From there it's hard to find a few times because of a lot of animal tracks. Follow the GPS. The trail is again visible from this point on: -46.486009, -72.212428. Trail condition generally good with some bushes hanging in the trail. Reached X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. Same here a lot if animal trail - follow the GPS. The trail is clearly visible from this point on: -46.49591, -72.205307 up to Bahía Murta. Condition is good. The Pass {33H-04} [71.5/958] is definetly a highlight. Camped at Camp {33H-04} [66.2/209] - great place. Next day was long no changes on the trail condition - good and easy - hiked to Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259]. Camping there is a bit tricky to find a good place but manageable. Met a guy at the gosttown Puerto Cristal. The trail is according to him also used by tourists groups. I asked before the trial if there is a ferry connection - there is none only one company goes there by boat for tourist. Maybe you can arrange a transfer ( https://turismopuertocristal.cl/ very fast response time via WhatsApp 10 minutes). The Pass {33H-04} [43.3/840] is also a highlight. The Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259] is challenging hip deep. After that it's easy road walk to Bahía Murta. Got a lift at -46.520007, -72.636049.

Overall: I would recommend SoBo because the difficult sections are at the beginning and weather dependent. Go if you have a few stable non rainy days. Bring you packraft to have more options for fording. The entry via Option 03 & 03B is in my opinion easy due to hitchhiking & ou find a grop and book a lift The views are amazing at the passes. The BB is trivial. BB&CC is annoying but done within 2 hours. The Option 4 is absolutely beautiful and if you are a bit luckier than me avoids a lot of road walking. Would definitely reccomend the section. The reason for me to go with Option 04 is to easy connect to 82P.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-12-22 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Anh'''

Just a quick info: The first part of RR is not marked but very easy to hike. After the pass (km 62) I had a hard time with the 2km CC. At first the snowfields were very steep (60 slope). The snow thickness was only 20-80cm, underneath are very big steep boulders and the melting snow makes the hollows big. Then there are the streams under the snowfields. I was a few times with a foot in it, fortunately not whole body. I had to go up and down in the forest, on the edge, on the rocks... My goal was to be safe, it took me 2 hours to cover the 2km.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Mar-30 to 2023-Mar-31 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Martin & Helena'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo around 11 AM and took ferry from the port the next day at noon. The former RR trail follows path of Sendero de Chile, and starting with no expectations we were quite impressed with what it offers, especially all the amazing views of Cerro Castillo. It's definitely a good short alternative to the Torres del Avellano detour that we were forced to skip. Trail is easy to follow and you can find many camp spots along the way. There are many small shops in Puerto Ibáñez. Knowing the ferry schedule we went directly to the port where were just a few others in this time of the year.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''26/02/2023 - 02/03/2023 / RR SOBO with emergency exit on a boat on Lago General Carrera / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

Day 1 - From Lago Verde - 15.5km - +700m/-300m We first hitchiked from Villa Cerro Castillo to Lago Verde on the Carretera Austral. We hiked then the gravel road until the camp next to the free check in point, in the forest.

Day 2 - Laguna La Plazza - 16.5km - +800m/-500m We kept going on the minor road before the well maintained horse trail. We took option to the Laguna La Plazza and we camped there but the weather was quite bad with a lot of wind. Would recommend to camp in the pasture down there in these conditions.

Day 3 - Lagunas before the pass - 17km - +1000m/-900m The trail was still very easy to follow this day. A bit of cross country at the end but nothing difficult as there are kerns. There is a spot to pitch tents next to the second lake, between it and the waypoint "camp" (that we didn't find btw). Very nice there and without the clouds, the view should be incredible.

Day 4 - CC until diversion @km69.8 - 14km - +500m/-1100m The troubles began for us this day. Noé injured his knee just after the pass. With Rémi, we alternated carrying his bag in addition to ours. That's why we hadn't moved a lot. The bush bashing is demanding and under the rain, fording is a real challenge. I would recommend you to be south of the Rio after the diversion/ford. We camped on the north side, a few hundred meters after the div.

Day 5 - Lago General Carrera - 30km - +700m/-1000m As we were a bit late, we decided to walk directly to the lake. We forded the Rio in order to be south of it and we found the horse trail, it was easier then ! We crossed the Rio a last time @km81.2, still manageable with the rain but a bit hard (water until the hips, we are 1m80 tall) with a strong current. Then, the minor road. We didn't leave it until the lake. A bit of ups and downs but the road is nice so it is fast. Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numeros given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. With the third bag to carry, it was too hard for us to keep hiking. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP... we didn't had the choice as the settler living just in front of the lake wasn’t there. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507 He transported us the next day.

* '''2023-Feb-21-27 / NOBO / RR + Option 3B / Ondrej and Bara / Puerto Ibanez - Vila Cerro Castillo / 6.5 days'''

Gorgerous section. Unfortunately, we were struck by bad weather mid-way which took out the joy and brought a few very difficult moments for us.

We went NOBO and on the 3rd day camped in the valley close to Maria & Julio (76.7 km). It started raining early morning and while the rain stopped around midday, it was enough to turn streams into rivers and cross country paths into swamps. We were unable to ford the river at km 69.8 at two different places. To continue, we decided to make a risky choice and bush-bash upstream on the other side of the river, hoping to ford it in an upper section and rejoin the trail. This eventually worked out. We forded the river at -46.43642, -72.45456 and rejoined the trail. This 1.2km diversion took us about 2 hours. Bush-bashing through forest was okay but in the middle of the diversion we struggled through 300m of thorny bushes which took forever to get across.

From around 1000m of altitude, we had fresh snow on the slopes. This made the boulder field more challenging than we wanted (fortunately still manageable). We crossed the exposed pass at km62.0 and continued on the other side, firstly through snow and then again through muddy cross country parts until we joined the trailhead at km 57.0. Afterwards the trail was easy all the way until the end.

We also met Anna and Christopher going the opposite direction - really great to meet fellow hikers!

* '''2023-Feb-20-24 / NOBO / RR shortend on the road sections / Zohar / Road to Levicán - Carterra Austeral / 5 days'''

I tried to shorten the section because of the upcoming bad weather, which hit on the last day, but I was lucky to catch a ride out with a family that came to collect wood from their land.

I arrived on Monday to pureto Ibañez spoke with the van to levicán that left at 17.40 to Levicán got off on the way where the rout leave the main road and walked till the shore of Lago General Carrera. Day 2 I followed the horse trail along the lake, which was very visible and easy to follow. Then, I followed a miner till I found a stable campsite. Day 3 was the hardest. I was determined to sleep at the base of the torres, so I had a lot of trail to cover, and the route was hard to follow, but the direction was clear. Day 4 started with a beautiful sun rise on the clear torres de avellano. The bolder field wasn't as hard as I itentenly thought, but be careful. After the pass, I met 4 young hikers going to the torres and back. Day 5 was wet, but at least on a minor road and about 9 km before the road, I was picked up and taken to Villa Cerro Castillo.

I don't advise doing the section in 5 days thay where long, big days, and it is better to enjoy the surroundings. if the weather was better, I would have taken 7 days. This section is beautiful and highly recommended

* '''20.02. - 24.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Villa Cerro Castillo - Puerto Ibáñez'''

In the afternoon we started hitchhiking the Carretera Austral to where Option 3B starts. There were lots of people trying to hitchhike directly from Villa Cerro Castillo, so we figuered to have a better chance if we walk further up the Carretera Austral. We soon got lucky. That day we walked the dirtroad until km 4.4 and camped there next to a small stream.

The next day was mostly easy walking on dirtroads until the crossing at km 45.5 (which is relatively easy to miss!). We camped at km 49 at the edge of the forest.

The next day the weather turned bad once we reached the section with all the boulders on the ascent to the pass. We did some unnecessary climbing by not sticking to the main route. When descending we lost the main route again and briefly tried to descend without it, which we soon realised is a bad idea, so we climbed back up to where we lost it. We spent the night at the camp at km 63.4.

The next morning we woke up with a clear blue sky and finally saw the Torres del Avellano. Really amazing rock formations. The following bushbashing part seemed ok to us, we had worse ones on the GPT so far ;). First we walked on to the right of the river following a good animal path. Once it ended we changed to the left side and stayed there. About 2/3 of the route is a realtively good path and the rest was some easy BB and climbing over fallen trees. Luckily the ford at km 69.8 was easy to cross. We took variant E from where on the trail was in a great condition and we could walk pretty fast. The river crossing at km 81.1 was more demanding and went almost up to Annas hips (1,63m). We camped soon after that at approx. km 81.5.

We continued on variant H the easy trail on the dirtroad until the lake, where it gets more demanding (we underestimated the continous ups and downs). The views are amazing though. It gets pretty windy next to the lake. We camped at a tiny spot at km 109.3 next to a small stream.

On the final day we walked to the bus station (6 pm) and took the ferry to Chile Chico the same day (8 pm). This section was great :)

* '''11-18 February 2023 / Maks&Gabi / SOBO / RR, 33H-E, 33H-H ( hichhiking from km136 to Puerto Ibanez)'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo. If you can, try not to skip the first part of road walking. It's beautiful with the view over Lagunas and Cerro Castillo. The terrain is also different than in later parts of the section.

There are some problems - lot of fences and gates on the first 5 km. Then many aggressive dogs and limited access to water (steep descents and fences around the lakes). The camping spots, marked on track files, can be hard to access (private properties with new fences). We camped by the bridge around 25km (the bridge is not marked).

We than waited half a day for the rain to stop. The rest of the road is also well maintained with occasional river crossing (all easy).

The next trail part (until km 57) is mostly visible. Some problem can occur by the CC part, especially during heavy rain - it was all floded. We weren't exactly expecting it, but it was snowing and the temperature during the night was about -4. Next day we waited until 11 am to dry our stuff, as the sun finally came out.

As Veronica wrote, when going up to the pass try to follow the cairns (33H-D). The part between the lakes and the pass is quite easy.

Going down from the pass we followed the GPS and we found it quite manageable (actually for us it seemed to be much easier going SOBO than NOBO at that point, even though it was slippery and with a lot of small streams going down the rock). We reached the camp at km 63.4 at 4 pm. First 400 m of BB is easy as the forest is not overgrown. It's getting worse in the valley. If possible try to be close to the river. We were fording it multiple times. Finally we stayed at the left side of the river, bushbashing for the next 3 km (that's where the trail starts). We slept next to the ford at km 69.8.

We forded the river in the morning. It's possible, but the current was strong (for us it was the worst ford on this section with water above our knees - I'm 175 cm). After the next ford we followed 33H-E as we couldn't find the entrance to the RR. It's a very well maintained path with a big puesto nearby.

After fords at km 81 we followed 33H-H as we didn't want to cross the river anymore. For those of you, who are planning to go there during the next few days, be carefull - somewhere around km 91 there is a fresh dead cow near to the water.

The lake part's quite exhausting. We were blessed with sunny and windless weather so we found it astonishing and not so dangerous. We started our last day at camp km 113.8 . Ascent on the road (117.5) is ok and there was water on km 119.9 (small stream). The rest of the road walking is easy (with occasional fences) but there's no water on km 135.2 (water on 129.3 is hard to access).

We hitchhiked from km 136 to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

* '''8 to 13 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO from Laguna Verde / 6 data'''

This one was an ordeal for me, I don't recommend starting with a week straight of rain in the forecast. At first I appreciated the ambiance after six completely dry weeks in the north, but after a few days it started to get me down. Thankfully to keep my morale up I encountered some kind settlers, a few pairs of GPT hikers, and some sun in the final stretch.

The rains never got too heavy, generally off and on light rain. The temperatures were fairly cold from the nearly constant cloud cover.

To start out I hitched out of Villa Cerro Castillo to Laguna Verde, teaming up with some of the many hitchhikers. The initial road walk was beautiful, some podcasts helped me power through the rest.

The pass was tough in the rain, but manageable. Things were slippery but there's enough to grab onto in the boulder fields to keep you stable, as long as you're focused and moving slowly. The ascent was nice boulder field the whole way, on the decent things looked scarier. Instead of boulders there was a lot of large smooth slab with water flowing down. The gpx route there was good, following boulders and vegetation around the slab. Things only felt dangerous once, when I went slightly off the track and ended up trapped between a cliff and a water slide. After some scary experimentation I found that I could get good traction on the waterslide using a crab walk technique, on my back with hands and feet and butt all resting on the slab. This let me traverse the waterslide back to safety.

The little bush bashing section after the pass was easy, I camped in there. Things got bad again once I got back out to the river and the cross country+bush bashing marker. My feet got worryingly numb after a bunch of river crossings and marshland traversal, I tried to stick to the woods after that.

I then took two big questionable detours from the tracks, staying to the south of the rio avellano and avoiding crossing it all the way until I reached the lake. I'll quickly describe them here but they were both uncomfortable and not worth it unless the river is impassable. The cold and rain seem to damage my decision making quite a bit, I refused to backtrack or to take breaks to think things through.

To skip the crossing at 69.8 I stayed in the woods south of the river starting at around km 67.5. Initially nice cow path, followed by a tricky wooded boulder field, followed by a horrific stretch crawling over thorny bushes. Eventually I made my way up to the base of some cliffs where things got a bit easier. Following the cliffs I reached a cow path, leading to some open woods through which I rejoined the trail around km 70.5. Never thought I'd be so happy to find cow poop.

I dropped a blue and black stone bracelet somewhere before or during the 71.8 river crossing, let me know if you come across it!

Some of the minor streams merging into the river were tough to cross. 71.8 was up to my thighs with a strong current.

To skip the first major crossing of the Rio Avellano at 81.2 I followed some horse trail to the big white rock hill, and climbed to the top. The rock was super grippy even in the rain. I then traversed along the slope to the east, staying between an elevation of 700 and 750m. There was some cow path making it easier to walk, I wonder how they get up there. A few tough bushy sections descending and climbing out of crevasses/streams before I got to a gradual stream at -46.46385, -72.30601 which I scrambled down to the river.

I ran into the settlers Luis and Jaqueline at their house by the river. They generously took me in for the night and gave me a chance to dry out some of my stuff.

From there I followed option 4C down to the lake, hoping that the river crossing there would be less scary with the river fanned out wider. The option was decent trail over some low passes to the lake, though at times it was hard to follow. It's tough to choose where to cross the river because you can't see the bottom through the silt. I decided to cross near the gpx line where it was wide with lots of debris and sand bars to rest in between the channels. At the worst points it was crotch deep and powerful, the rocks under my feet sliding back from the force. Pretty scary.

I camped in the willow grove by campo chico, and the next day (Monday) I raced to the bus stop at 130.4. It turns out that the bus is now at 6pm, I got there just in time. I took the bus to Puerto Ibáñez and got straight on the 8pm ferry to Chile Chico.

A small cut on my ankle ended up getting infected, I'm now in town out of commission with a ton of swelling. Should have been more careful!

* '''Feb 12 Direct Route SOBO 1 day Frank'''

I walked straight from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Ibanez in one long day. A few KM out on a dirt road there is a museum on your left & a short trail on the right which goes to some rock paintings. You pass by a lake with good views of Cerro Castillo. Salto Rio Ibanez waterfall is impressive.

*Helen and Craig + (Caro and Ali)
5th-10th February NoBo<- only direction to do it! So pretty!

almost got stung by the ferry from Chile chico. Make sure when you go to the office as the online booking doesn't seen to be working, that you specify your a foot passenger. And if they refuse ask to be put on the waiting list for the next ferry (which means you'll get on just fine) pretty sure you could probably just turn up and ask very nicely and they would let you across. Looked in to the boats from Carlos and Pascual to join 33 missing the coast section from levican but Carlos is not in the area at the moment and Pascuals boat is currently non functional, sad times but the coastal section I would have been sad to miss!

-Decided to do Torres del avellano northbound. Highly recommend doing it this way and thankyou to the others who pointed out this point before us. Veiws were great and much easier to get over the bolder scramble going up.

-We walked in a group of 4 so payed for a transfere to levican and a pick up from lago lapparent. 60,000 each time.
-Phone signal from Puerto del avellano to levican
-The river valleys of avellano and venti were incredibly beautiful to the south.
-Route was better marked and easier to navigate than exsepted. Very Easy going apart from km 68.7-62. if you've done GPT 40 or 37, then you'll find 33 delightfully a breeze. (We did have good weather, in bad weather even just a little rain I imagine a very diffence and worse exsperience)
-In the BB/CC river valley of Rio avellano walk on the north shore of the river rather than going to the south. The forest is mostly easily passable or can hop out to the river valley to walk more freely. The south side of the river is calf/ knee high swampy bush bashing which leads to very cold feet and frustration.
-keep eyes peeled for humels! We spotted a male humel on the bushbash/cross country section and had the most amazing sighting!

* '''22 to 26 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT33H RR SOBO / via GPT33H-03B / 4.5 days'''

Route: Villa Cerro Castillo - Laguna Verde (Río Alto valley) - Upper Río Avellano valley - Torres del Avellano viewpoint - Lower Río Avellano valley - Lago General Carrera - Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

Simply beautiful section. Lots of excellent info is written about it in the Hiker's Manuel too. I only met 4 other hikers, with two of them being northbounding GPT hikers! Great to meet you, Yannic and Mirjam :)

From Villa Cerro Castillo I hitched easily on the Carretera Austral to Laguna Verde, where Option 3B begins. I wanted to cut some of the initial road walking because poor weather was incoming the next day and I wanted to try and beat it to have a chance at seeing the Torres. The road walk in the Río Alto valley was actually quite pleasant and scenic. There is a little self-registration booth across the road from the settler at km 30.8, where hikers are asked to "check in" before proceeding down the private road towards the Río Avellano valley. There is no charge.

The camp at 52.7 km is very nice with a little stream running through, lots of dead wood around to make a fire, and relatively sheltered. There is an old puesto/refuge there too that is open and has a fireplace. Could be a good spot to hole up if the weather is bad.

When you diverge from the Río Avellano valley to head up the pass, don't try and follow the GPS. Instead take the path of least resistance (or the path that looks the clearest) through the woods and across the rocks near the river. There are occasional cairns to mark the way too, although not always obvious to spot. Only the last cross-country section before the pass did I follow closely with the GPS, as it goes across a boulder field and the GPS line seemed to be the easiest way up to the pass.

On the south side of the pass is where you finally see the Torres del Avellano proper. Absolutely incredible, and I managed to get the great views only a couple of hours before the rain started and clouds engulfed everything.

I followed the GPS track closely going down through the granite boulder field, since it guided a safe way around the steeper cliffs. It was slow going down through the boulders, but it didn't feel unsafe as the rocks were grippy and solid.

The initial "bushbashing" segment at km 63.9 was very easy through a mature forest. I didn't follow the GPS here, just followed an old animal trail alongside a creek until it joined with Río Ventisquero. Again, the CC&BB section starting at km 64.4 was quite easy at first. I forded the river multiple times to walk along whichever side looked easier/less swampy. About midway through this section though it got tougher because Río Ventisquero got silty and the flow increased, so that I didn't want to ford it much anymore, so I stuck to the left (north) side of the river, mostly in the forest. There were some areas of unavoidable blowdowns and marshy terrain, and everything was wet from the rain coming down too.

When I reached the waypoint X, Ford at 69.8 km, I camped there for the night because Río Ventisquero was a torrent and looked unsafe to ford. There are a few nice, flat places to pitch a tent in this area, under large mature trees. Early the next morning, it was very cold and still raining, and I couldn't tell if the river had gone down at all or not. There was fresh snow higher on the mountaintops. I ended up fording the river slightly downstream from where the trail crosses it, and the water came up just below my hips (I'm 165 cm). The water is silty so you can't see the bottom, but the rocks underneath had surprisingly good traction, which I was grateful for because the current was strong.

It might be better to take Option 33H-E than the regular route. That trail looked well-maintained and clear, whereas the RR between 71.8 and 73.5 km was hard to follow and overgrown at times. There were no signs of life at the homestead of Maria and Julio when I passed through.

I was strategic when I forded Río Avellano at km 81.2, crossing multiple branches at their shallowest points. The water went midway up my thighs at the deepest point. Afterwards though I didn't want to cross it two more times, so I took Option 33H-H which stayed north of the river.

The refugio at km 98.5+0.2 on the shore of Lago General Carrera is nice and clean. There is a woodstove and some tables and chairs. It was crazy windy when I got there though, and I can't reccomend it as a good place to camp unless you sleep inside the refuge — the wind gusts were coming from all directions and there wasn't a spot that was sheltered outdoors. Further along the path at Campo Chico, there is a grove of mature willow trees that is probably a much better camp spot.

Very beautiful hiking along Lago General Carrera, but it was wildly windy for me that day. At times it was hard to stay on the trail due to the strong gusts trying to blow me off the path. Lots of water sources.

RH-MR&CC-V {33H} [19.5/118.0+4.6] is all minor road, no cross-country involved at all. I met the settler at km 121.8, he kindly let me pass through his property (and many gates) no problem.

I got to the minor road from Levican (waypoint at 130.4) at 7:40 a.m. on a Thursday. There is a little bus shelter there to protect from the wind. It was very cold and windy when I got there, and I waited until almost noon, hoping to hitch a ride. Not a single car passed by that whole time. So I resigned myself to the road walk, walked for about an hour in extremely windy conditions, and then a car finally came by and picked me up and drove me into Puerto Ibáñez :) Very grateful!!!

* '''2023 Jan / Yannic & Mirjam / Northbound'''

From Puerto Ibanez we made the first kilometres to junction 130.4 by car stop. Then we hiked on to Camp 113.4. We didn't stay at the location, but a little further ahead where the river flows into the lake. Along the lake was nice with a lot of ups and downs and then we camped somewhere on the side of the Minor Road. Along the Rio Avellano we stayed on the northern side so that we only had to cross the river once (at 81.2). The water came up to my waist (I am 180 cm). Surprisingly, there was another Ford at 69.8. Again, very strong current and loose ground, so it was difficult to find a good footing. Right after this Ford we spent the night in the forest.

On the climb at the start of the cross country section (at trailhead 68.5) be sure to get the right entry point as there are several small streams coming down the valley. We thought we saw a trail further into the forest that we could follow. Unfortunately, this was a mistake and led to us having to bush bash back onto the trail for a few hundred metres. In general, the trail was mostly better close to the river than deeper in the forest. The camping spot at the Torres was incredible and worth getting up for sunrise. The climb up the pass was very doable with the GPS tracks and not too difficult. On the other side of the pass, the trail got surprisingly good. We met a group of horses that were probably trekking to the lakes. Because the weather got worse, we took option 03 on the Carretera Austral and stopped at Ceroo Castillo.

*GPT section 33 7 days, 84 miles, 14K ft ascent Dec. 21 to 27, 2022 David and Erika NOBO

Ferry from Chili Chico runs just once a week (Mondays at 8:00 am) we missed it by hours and were stuck at the hotel California in Chili Chico for a day. “You can enter any time you like but you can never leave” got to be the feeling after residential bus after residential bus filled with residents and would not take us. Eventually got to Sierra Castillo and then hitched to Puerto Inginiero Ibanez. The tourist office there got her husband to give us a lift further 24 km to the end of the road. Well worth the 25,000 pesos. Road hike from there straightforward but new gates are being installed at the last road (NOBO) before you hit Lago General Carrera. Lots of wind. Last Refugio on the lake is legitimate. Good place to camp. Lower Rio Avellano was fordable. We thought we could avoid the 2nd and 3rd ford by taking the path over the hill. Don’t. It doesn’t go…Don’t worry, it gets worse. Ultimately, you’ll be hiking through the river all the way to Torres de Avellano. Note on that. The route takes you up to the lake. Beautiful, but then you go through a 2 km boulder field. We found the start of a trial before exiting the river that seems to lead right up to the pass. Might go, we don’t know. Instead, we took the boulder route, broke through a snow bridge, and put a deep gauge in Erika’s leg. Could have used stiches but had no sutures. Might be worth investigating.

*'''2022 Nov, NoBo, Option 1, Alice and Florian'''

We chose to do the option 1 taking the sendero de chile from Puerto Ibañez to Cerro castillo. Most of it is a trail road (first 25km, and the last 4) so it is quite tiring for the knees as some point. But it seems quite easy to do hitchhiking at least on the first 25 km if needed. Nevertheless it is quite a nice road. You first arrive to a very nice waterfall after 5km, them walk through a canyon with nice scenic views. The 10km pass through a forest trail near lakes, it is really nice as well.

* '''2022 Nov / GPT33H Option 11 and Parts of Regular Route / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

GPT33H/GPT34P: Northern coast of Lago General Carrera from Puerto Sanchez to Levican (packrafting and hiking)

From 2022-Nov-20 to 2022-Nov-24 we (Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck) packrafted and hiked in 5 days from Puerto Sanchez to Levican along the northern coast of Lago General Carrera.

This lake is infamous for the frequent strong gusty wind, therefore packrafting requires a careful monitoring of the weather to depart only onto the lake when a period with calmer conditions is approaching. Luckily, there is reasonable good mobile phone coverage what facilities checking the weather and wind forecast frequently.

Given the wind conditions any packrafting attempt on Lago General Carrera requires to my opinion:

- decked packraft, a longer tandem is strongly preferable (faster, more stable) - a sail (to get quicker to an exit point) - packrafting experience in the region (to anticipate typical weather and wind patterns) - smartphone with entel SIM card or entel rooming - YR weather App, Windy weather App

The predominant wind is eastbound therefore only eastbound packrafting is advisable.

I’m left with the impression that wind gets generally stonger towards the east (towards Levican and Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez) and that calm periods are more frequent and longer towards the west (Puerto Tranquilo, Puerto Sanchez).

Also, calmer conditions are more likely in the early morning just after sunrise but strong wind all night is also common.

During a previous hike in February 2020 we experienced an entire summer day with barely any wind but such days are as frequent as unicorns and no travel plan should be build on exceptional favorable circumstances.

There is a trail along the northern shore but due to the steep coast there are sections of up to 13 km on the lake without a connection from the shoreline to this trail.

Emergency exits are more frequent along the coast but using such an exit means waiting for the wind to calm down what can take days. Therefore it is generally favorable to exit the water only in a location from where the trail can be reached easily.

We packrafted most of the distance from Puerto Sanchez to the Avellano river delta on 3 mornings in about 9 hours on the water but from there we hiked in two days to Levican because we had no similar promising calm weather windows in following early mornings. In hindsight the wind remained manageable in the morning hours till about noon but there was no point in reversing our decision to hike (and we urgently needed some exercise to get used to hike with heavy backpacks again).

Crossing from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanchez is reasonable feasible by packraft in calm weather (typically either very early in the morning or later in the evening). The crossing is 3 km wide and best started 1 km north of Puerto Tranquilo in a hidden bay with a nice protected spot to pitch a tent (46.6146°S / 72.6838°W · 210 m). If preparing the packraft at the beach of Puerto Tranquilo officials may stop packrafters as there are numerous restrictions and requirements applicable (in example accompanying motor boat with two licensed boat drivers).

Packrafters should depart in north-eastern direction to compensate for a south-eastern wind drift in case wind increases.

A very nice protected camp site is approximately 8 km from the recommended exit point near Puerto Tranquilo.

GPT33H: Bus Levican - Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez

The last 26 km from Levican to Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez are rather dull road walking. Therefore hikers that arrive at the right day and time can take the subsidized bus.

Monday and Friday only: 08:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 09:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez 18:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 19:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez Price: 1000 CLP

Transport at other times can be arranged for a substantially higher cost (estimated 40‘000 to 60‘000 CLP per vehicle).

Paty: +56 9 9506 3176

Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 10-14, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

Even though the first few days out of town is a road walk, the first part of it is actually really scenic and worth walking, the lakes are just very beautiful one the way. The second part was mostly in the forest and our feet, knees and hips were already hurting from all the road walking but once we got on trail it got better right away. The trail was surprisingly well maintained I would even say better than in Cerro Castillo National Park. Another unexpected surprise was the amount of people that we met on the trail a total of about 25 people in different size groups were hiking to see Torres de Avellano. We really didn’t expect that, there also seemed to be some sort of backpack hauling and guiding service that the local arrieros were offering. We unfortunately didn’t manage to talk to them to find out, but it seems that the place is getting popular. Which is not a surprise because it’s very very beautiful there, probably is correct what the manual says, that it’s going to be the next Torres del Paine, time will tell.

On day 3 about 2-3km before the pass the trail disappeared and the going got tougher and tougher, mostly just bolder hopping up and over the pass. The descent was pretty steep on large granite slabs which offered plenty of good grip but I am not sure how well would it work in wet conditions. I think the pass is doable in not good weather conditions but only if one feels very confident in own abilities on wet rocks. Also it’s a good idea to follow the gps on the way down because otherwise you end up on a cliff edge and have to track back up. The ground finally eases up once you enter the forest, but then starts the bushwhacky part all the way until ford/div at 69,7km.

That was as far as we could make it that day because the river was pretty fast in the evening. So we decided to camp right there and cross it in the morning when the flow would be a bit more manageable and our decision payed off. In the morning the river was about 10cm lower than the evening before, so if you ar a shorter person it could save you. The flow was pretty strong and water was still about hips deep. Both of us crossed it together by standing in a line, me in front and Stiina supporting me from behind, it worked great. After that it was easy cruising for the next 32km, however we had to cross that river once again at 81,2km. It was still challenging but we managed to do it the traditional way one by one, facing upstream. But the current was still very strong and pushing our feet out from under us, challenging our balance. After that we didn’t want to cross it two more times as gps suggested so we just stayed on the left coast all the way to the lake. There were some cow trails to follow and also to bypass the cliffs it was no problem.

The lake is really beautiful with all the islands and it wasn’t too windy when we arrived. We camped about a kilometer from Campo Chico on the rocky stream bed and managed to cook on the fire that night without causing fire hazard. And there were apple, pear and plum trees at the 98,3km, plums were very ripe but the apples and pears still need a week or two to get ready, but it was a very nice treat nevertheless.

Next day was Monday which meant that we could avoid the 26km road walk at the end of the section which we were determined to do. We had 30km to goto get to the road junction were the bus is passing by and according to the manual the bus would pass there some time after 20:00 which is when it starts from Levican. So we pushed the whole day over the steep, sandy, bushy terrain and made it to the junction by 19:00, great, we thought. But after bus didn’t show up we called the phone nr that Janna & Matthias had provided and it turned out that the bus actually leaves Levican at 18:00 and is long gone. But the bus driver was nice enough to offer us a ride to Puerto Ibañez, however for a hefty 45.000 pesos. We were out of food, out of water and pretty spent from getting ourselves there so we accepted the offer. The car ride showed that it would be a pretty dull road walk aswell if we would have had to do it so in the end it all worked out and we got to town just as we wanted.

The town was a bit disappointing, people were somehow not very helpful and also all accommodations were full, but we managed to camp at Las Cabañitas about a km out of town. The next day we went to the port to catch the ferry to Chile Chico, but due to strong winds all ferries were canceled and nobody could even give us a guess of when the ferries would restart. We didn’t want to spend another day in Puerto Ibañez so we hitched back to Villa Cerro Castillo in hopes to get bus or a hitch around the lake. There are definitely daily buses to Cochrane.

In the end our plans changed and we decided that we are content with our experience on GPT this season, so we left it at that. Thanks for kicking our butts GPT and showing us beauty we haven’t seen before! :)

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''GPT 33H Option 4 (Puerto Cristal)/ Torres de Avellano/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-4 / 7 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald'''

I started Packrafting from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanches in the calm morning hours. Since Jonas doesn‘t have a Packraft, we booked a full Marvel Caves Tour by boat for him and asked the Captain, to leave him in Puerto Sanches, which was possible without any extra paying. We hiked northbounded along Lago Vidal Gormez and visited the left behind abandoned village Puerto Cristal. It was an impressive experience to see the old facilities of the Mining Company! The good visible trail is partly overgrown with spiky bushes and contains a lot of altitude. We have been rewarded with stunning views on the Lago General Carrera and recommend this option anyway. We went up to the Torres with good weather knowing, that some wind and rain have been predicted for the night. It took us many hours to cross the valley (-46,43300, -72,48867) because we mainly followed the “cow-trails” through the forest and wetland (as an alternative to walk up the river). We reached the camp (-46,42178, -72,50672) late and sheltered the spot with rocks against the wind. You are welcome to use our cozy spot free of charge 😉. Took the trail from the Torres down to Cerro Castillo without difficulties.

We have to say, that this part of the GPT was challenging but absolutely worth the struggle.

Disfrutas las cosas 🙏

* '''NoBo, January 2022, 6.5 days, Participants: Janna & Matthias'''

Day 1: We took the ferry from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibañez (ferry schedule online).There still runs a government-subsidised bus (+56 9 89448847) between Puerto Ibañez and Levicàn on Mondays and Fridays at 8am & 5pm (summer). We decided to spend the afternoon rain relaxing at the pizzeria in Puerto Ibañez and then catch the bus. We called and found out that the bus stop is now in front of the Supermercado Jelvez. The driver let us off at Div 130.4/311 at about 6pm ($1000 per person cash) and we hiked for another hour or so. At bridge 129.3/304 you cannot get water (a kind of gorge), maybe at the marked "Water?" about 15min downstream. We had enough with us and camped sheltered from the wind between the monoculture trees (S 46.377764 W 71.922459).

Day 2: We continued through / over many gates and past empty houses down to the water. Attention if NoBo: at gate 122.6/628 there are two gates - the GPT splits behind the left one, so take that one. The first water before the lake and two good camps at the lake are marked. The path along Lago Carrera was easy to find, sandy and rough in places but we could follow old riders' tracks. We really enjoyed the fantastic view over the lake and had a tábano-free time thanks to the strong wind. About 2 km before Campo Chico (S 46.478295 W 72.086034) we found a west wind-protected and very nice camping spot.

Day 3: Further camping possibilities would be as already described on wikiexplora at Campo Chico and at Puerto Avellano. Along the lake there are streams/rivers for drinking water every 1-2h. There is a wild apple tree on the trail here: S 46.487073 W 72.102247 in case you come by at the right time of year. After Puerto Avellano there is about 15km of a former mine road that is easy to follow. We had a wonderful view of the mountains the whole day. The first two Fords are easy to pass with little water. Water sources again every 1-2h. Our camp 3 was here: S 46.457910 W 72.299412 - beautiful, next to the water, sheltered from the wind.

Day 4: Ford-day - in total we forded rivers more than 20 times, all of them were easy to knee deep except Río Avellano at 81.2/490 which reached almost to our hips and required a lot of effort. We met and chatted with settler Maria who was on her way to have some work done. At Div/Ford 69.7/634 the mountain peaks remained hidden in the clouds and the weather forecast was not so sparkling why we opted for the bypass (option 2) which is also very nice to walk with imposing mountain massifs on both sides, enchanted fairytale forests, a waterfall and easy-to-find cow tracks. Only the large swamp around S 46.386387 W 72.422623 was very unpleasant and foul-smelling, about shin deep. It may be worth looking for a path along the water there. Camp 4: S 46.371434 W 72.432519, quiet and nice under curious observation of two horses on the other side of the river.

Day5: At Div 54.5/841 we checked the weather again but as it still looked bad and everything in the valley further up was already in fog we finally decided against the Torres. At this Div there was an unmarked Ford when coming from option 2. If NoBo hiking directly after this Div take the path higher up the hill and not the marked route directly along the water, because the latter is slipped and to climb. At Puesto 53.0/946 (if NoBo) do not go through the gate but continue on the east side. A Horse Trail runs along the eastern edge of Mallin Grande. Our Camp 5 was here: S 46.281253 W 72.436128.

Day 6: Continued on the gravel road, passing many settlers and pastures. The Estero Alto flows much lower than the road, there is water at Bridge 25.7/454 and otherwise only at the lakes. There is a fence almost everywhere to the left and right of the road. To get to Camp 16.9+0.3/598 you have to climb over a locked gate (S 46.178222 W 72.312583). The two buildings in the pasture are a ruin (S 46.182635 W 72.311414) and a stable (S 46.183119 W 72.310509).

Day 7: Continued along the gravel road we almost missed Div 5.5/554 where a sandy path continues. The path is blocked by a wire fence at S 46.143124 W 72.184071 but a little further to the right you can slip through. No problems to get to Villa Cerro Castillo

==Season 2020/21==

* '''February 2021 from Bahía Murta to Torres del Avellano to Carretera Austral / Northbound, 5 days. Valle Resfalín/Resfalón (Option 8) + Mirador Torres del Avellano + Regular Hike + Escape to Carretera Austral (Option 3B) + Hitchhiking to Villa Cerro Castillo'''

Day 1: Bahia Murta to Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) / 11.5 km / 6 hours

The hike started at Bahía Murta, on a steep hillside. We used the GPS tracks to find the path, and from there on it’s pretty easy to follow the path (when in doubt, we checked the GPS). It’s a very nice hike, and at the end of the day it’s necessary to cross the river. We both had trekking sandals, which came in handy every time we had to cross a river. Just after the river there is a camp option. We found a nice spot on the other side of the wooden fence, but there are many more options up the small hill. It was a perfect place for sleeping, with the soothing sound of the river.

Day 2: Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) to Regular Route at Mallín Quemado (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) / 11.7 km / 8 hours

This was one of the longest days for us, mainly because we underestimated how much time it takes to walk through a path that’s been reclaimed by nature. The day started with a steep uphill, where we lost the path for a while and then had to check the GPS to find it again. There are streams on the way where it’s possible to refill the water bottles. About a third way in, at (-46.38537, -72.55201), the path collapsed, probably washed out by the river. We took a look around and decided it was way safer to cross the river than to continue on the collapsed path (it was late February, so the river was not so full). We crossed to the other side, and 100m ahead crossed back. This is definitively the trickiest part of the day (although a bit farther ahead we found ourselves in the middle of a caterpillar forest...not really pleasant). Just after the crossing the are two camp sites (Camp ? @33H-08-#008 and Camp ? @33H-08-#009), but we would recommend keep going as the second part of the day is definitively easier than the first. Farther ahead we found two more camp site options: at (-46.36768, -72.53116) on this side of the river and at (-46.36722, -72.53088) on the other side of the river. We considered sleeping there, because we were exhausted, but in the end we decided to keep going as we still had some hours of daylight left. This was the right choice, because that way we could sleep at Mallín Quemado and then the next day do the day trip to Torres del Avellano. Mallín Quemado is the name the locals use for the big forest area that was “burned” by the ashes of Volcan Hudson. It’s near (Puesto @33H-53.0) and it’s a perfect place for sleeping. We decided to boil the water from the small stream, because there were some cattle grazing around.

Day 3: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Mirador Laguna y Torres del Avellano and back to Camp #10 / 7.1 km (each way) / 3 hours (each way)

We started early and with a lot of motivation to go and see the Torres del Avellano. Sadly the day was a bit cloudy, but nonetheless it was totally worth it: the views from up there are breathtaking! A lot of glaciers and superstreams with the purest water you can ask for. When we arrived back at the camp, we met the first person in 3 days: Francisco, a teacher from Puerto Aysen. He came up the other way, from Villa Cerro Castillo, and was planning on going to Torres del Avellano on the next day, and then head back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Day 4: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) / 21.6 km / 8 hours

Another long day, but without any difficult parts. This section of the hike is way more popular than Valle Resfalín/Resfalón, so the path is way easier to follow. The first section, until the car road, is really beautiful. We even saw some (semi) wild horses! We knew that once the car road started there wouldn’t be so many camp site options, so we kept our eyes open. The car road goes through a narrow valley, and then comes a steep down hill. At the bottom of the hill, on the left side, there is a small meadow, where it’s possible to pitch a tent (-46.26244, 72.35118). Water is available 100m down a steep hill.

Day 5: Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) to Carretera Austral / 14.8 km / 4 hours

Following the main car road to Carretera Austral it’s impossible to get lost. We didn’t find any stream on the way, but in case of needing water there are many houses. Just be sure to ask nicely :) Once on the Carretera Austral we hitchhiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. We only had to wait for 30 minutes to get a ride, and considering that we did this during covid times...not too bad. We also had the backup plan of Francisco, who would be driving to Villa Cerro Castillo later that day. Funny enough, we ran into Francisco by chance in Villa Cerro Castillo and he invited us to an ice cream. It was a nice way of ending the trip.

We are extremely grateful to Jan and all the people from wikiexplora for making this adventure possible!

==Season 2019/20==

*'''Section 33: RR(New!) from Ibáñez. Exit via Option 8 to Bahía Murta.'''
Westbound. 11 days. Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.

Ibáñez y Península Levican: Continuing our extended stay in Chile we caught a government subsidised bus from Cerró Castillo to Ibáñez where we learnt after a somewhat lengthy process: talking to the ticket office, boat personnel and then the carabineros (an officer and then his jefe!), everyone passing the buck; that without a certificado de salud (not available in town, and only online) we couldn't board the vessel. The upside was that the Naviera Austral had fantastic baños (yes! they were open!) and the cleaning lady let us have a quick body wash and even do a little laundry before she had to close up. There was also limited WiFi connectivity (only WhatsApp would work) and powerpoints where we could charge our things. It also happens that we bumped into a Zulema Amoroz who was born in Fachinal, most likely a relative of Carloz Amoros who offers the boat service from Fachinal across the lake (we contacted him but no boats were allowed on the lake). If you hang around near where the ferry docks you might find her selling coffee and alfajores.

We quickly decided to walk the new Section 33 Jan recently published, but end in Bahía Murta instead (i.e. explore option 8). Some effort was exhausted trying to organise a lift out to Península Levican. We did find someone for $30k, (it seemed a little steep but that's roughly what to expect), but it wouldn't be till the following day and we needed to get out of town to spend the night. We stocked up on food and started out on foot on the old RR (now Option 1) camping before we reached Río Ibáñez.

I had a little concern about water on the way to Levican, but there are two or three good streams along the way: (-46.31022, -71.97272) (-46.32470, -71.96457) (-46.34091, -71.94069)

In Puerto Ray a lady (also named Zulema!) warmed up to us and let us camp in her fruit orchard. In the morning we bought some eggs and 'bread' from them. Her husband was tanning a chivo hide; he had such a jolly step!

Along Lago General Carrera: We went back to the junction (Div Levican @33H-131.4) where a good emergency shelter exists. The road is still very clear from here, but don't expect any traffic. I think it was a rare sight that we saw an old Mercedes truck full of wood lumbering (pun intended ;) out. The rd deviates a little from the track files maybe due to the pine plantations. There are many new rds., so take care you don't go the wrong way. Taking the RR you will pass through a locked gate (-46.38234, -71.96692), after this keep an eye out for a gate on the left. It's not in the track files and we didn't look for it, so maybe it's not there. The issue we had was that the road continues up the hill, deviating from the RR around (-46.38448, -71.97642). Here you should already be on the small road on the other side of the fence (someone traveling towards Levican/Ibáñez will find this easier to scope I imagine). Though it's not recommended to cross fences, we carefully crossed instead of heading back. A very minor Rd continues down to a dilapidated puesto and a couple of portóns. The road didn't seem to continue as indicated in the track files... but I wasn't following my gps. We CCed across a field until we encountered another road that led back to the RR.

You will finally encounter your first reliable water source since Levican (-46.40196, -71.97831), especially if you are heading towards Ibáñez, make sure you fill up here!

The two camps in the track files at km117 and km114 were the best we saw. The next obvious choice would be around Campo Chico I think, quite a bit further along. Plenty of water along the lake and we had plenty of apples seeing we were walking so late in the walking season. Amazing autumn colours! The track is also in good shape, someone had very recently 'cleaned' the way! The refugio at Los Álamos was a very welcome sight, a great place to spend a night (it's there because of the high winds possible on the lake). The nearby settler was resonably friendly and his dog Puestero even more so! He told us that it was him who 'cleaned' the track along Lago General. It made our walking so much easier! Thanks Armando!

Valle Avellano y Ventisquiero: The old mining road through Valle Avellano was easy to follow. The road actually continues significantly further than indicated in the track files. Taking Variation F to avoid extra crossings of the river we found the road ended about here: (-46.45730, -72.30207). There is an unmarked ford here: (-46.46107, -72.24636)

We took Variation D and just caught Maria and Julio before they headed out with their kids on a horse ride. We bought some bread from them. They called it a tortilla, but I think my Mexican friends would strongly argue the point ;)

Easy walking up into Valle Ventisquiero. Read Jan's track notes. They are quite thorough. The trail to remeet Río Avellano is a little unused (also as mentioned in his write up), but easy to follow. Some good camping before the river. We met some gouchos using the puesto, they were not overly friendly; I think a little scared because of the virus. They pointed out a nearby shelter we could use made from a very old technique using U-shaped logs (I met a carpenter in Murta who told me a little about it).

Option 8: Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?): It was snowing in the morning. We decided to take Option 8 to Bahía Murta. This meant less road walking and involved a part marked as 'I' (investigation) which would be nice to document. It appears that this route down Valle Resbalín (or "Resfalón" as some locals in Murta told me it was named... anyone know?) is no longer used; quite overgrown, vague and in places difficult to detect at all. Sometimes all we could see was the occasional chainsawed log; and in some chutes: machete marks. Water was plentiful. There was a very old but partially functional puesto en route.

There is a junction ('div') here: (-46.37495, -72.53695). The trail heading up the side valley actually looked quite distinct. I'm not sure what it's name is, or what's up there, but the water was a nice glacier blue and it had a higher flow than the 'main' named river.

The only tricky spot to find the track was where it was washed away by the river, about here: (-46.38527, -72.55201). I cut steps in the bank, crossed, and dropped a rope down for the others. It would be much safer to walk in the river. We explored options to bypass via skirting around in the bosque, but they didn't seem practical. The nearby camp site marked in the track files (Camp ? @33H-08-#008) is not really good. Better to camp 200m upstream If camping around here. We camped at the confluence with Estero Sur, which is the best spot to camp we saw in the entire valley. From this point down the valley, the track is in use: plenty of fresh signs of cattle (maybe they graze in the side valleys?). Ford Estero Sur (-46.39815, -72.58224) and follow the track down the valley with ease. There is camping at (Camp ? @33H-08-#004) but better 300m down the valley near a corral. 50m down valley of (Camp ? @33H-08-#002) camping is possible next to the vague ruins of an old puesto. Further down the valley are several grassy areas good for camping, the most obvious is here (-46.43778, -72.65597) in the vicinity of the old puesto. The track (as opposed to Rd) continues much further than indicated in the track files. The road only starts about here (-46.44697, -72.66655) once you are nearly in Murta. We rested a full day in Murta and I happened to run into Felepé who we'd meet before the trip in Cerró Castillo. Loco!

Thanks Jan for making this trip possible, Tobias Hellwig for recommending the reroute, and all the people on wikiexplora who explored and documented the tracks.

If anyone has any information on the history of Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?), the mining prospectors in Valle Avellano, or the settlers that abandoned the coast of Lago General Carrera, I'd love to read a bit.

I hope this helps someone. Thanks!

Oh! and we're back in Cochrane now and planning to be in Coyhaique in a week or so. Cheers.

* '''BE AWARE THAT THE BELOW LOGS refer to Option 1 and not to the new Regular Route:'''
Until 2019 the Regular Route followed the Sendero de Chile in the vicinity of Rio Ibañez what is now Option 1. Tobias Hellwig suggested to reroute the GPT via the Torres de Avellano to incorporate this hidden treasure. This proposed new route was investigated and documented in February 2020 by the founders of the GPT. By this time multiple segments of this new route were already published on Wikiexplora by other authors. Only the route from Kilometer 62.2 to 69.9 remained undocumented and had to be researched and ground-proved.

* '''10 Mar 2020 / RH SOBO / Ty / 1 day'''

Super easy in general. I was able to get a hitch for like the last 10 kilometers. There’s a lot of different trail you can wander off on at the start of the sendero de Chile, so just be aware of your navigation at the start. The only good easily accessible water I found was between the two lakes before the intersection where you start walking the road. The ferry to Chile Chico leaves around 8 and takes a couple hours. Otherwise the next ferry leaves at 11 am....but make sure to confirm these times yourself. When arriving in Chile Chico, I climbed up to the viewpoint/mirador close to the ferry landing and found a place protected on the wind and slept on the ground. There is also an abandoned house marked in I-overlander that has an area in a room big enough for a 2 person tent. It’s on your right just before the climb up to the mirador.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu / 2 days'''

No technical difficulties on this part. However, I was stopped, when the GPT leave the road to go between the two lakes, by a sign : área protegida, ingreso no permitido. For me, it was cristal clear, so I just continued the road, disappointed. I spoke to one of the settler not far, who told me that it was only for cars and it s ok for walkers, and that it is part of the "Sendero de Chile". So the way seems open finally. Anyway, there is another little path just before the lago Ardillas that goes north, and join the GPS tracks above the Valley Ibanez. Well maintained, in the hills, lots of cows, good experience.

* '''2019 Jan/ Olrik / Northbound'''

From Ibanez you walk on a dirt road to the entrance of a Reserva Natural. You are on the Sendero de Chile so it is well marked. In the reserva the trail is easy to follow and there was no one. You end up in Cerro Castillo. We did it in 2.5 days but could be done in 1 day if beginning early.

* '''2019-Nov-28/ Lea Geibel/ 1 day / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route (Puerto Ibañez to Villa Cerro Castillo)'''

After arriving with the ferry at 10.30 a.m., the section can be hiked in one day (around 8 hours of walking). Most of the section is on a dirt road with very little traffic. The part that is following a trail is marked with posts with red / white rings on them. Occasionally the trail is not very visible but numerous animals tracks are usually heading in the right direction before eventually meeting up with a trail marker again.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*2025 / Michael & Kasia:
If entering or exiting via Opt 8 or Opt 4, Bahía Murta (Puerto Murta) has several places that rent cabañas or camping space. There are at least 5 shops in town. The two largest both had tall skinny gas recharge canisters (Minimercado Gemaniar 3.000, Minimercado Estribo 4.000), but no screw type for backpacking stoves. Minimarket Gemaniar across from the tourist information office had generally the best prices and a good selection. The panadería across from the plaza had good pan amasado.

*Section GPT33H starts in Villa Cerro Castillo and terminates in Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez (Resupply information see GPT34H). Hikers that continue southbound may also resupply in Chile Chico after the ferry crossing of Lago General Carrera (Resupply information see GPT35).

*Several shops sell food and camping gas canisters.

*Restaurants offer filling meals.

*Accommodation is provided by hostels, cabañas and camp sites in these towns.

*Hikers that walk GPT33H and its adjacent sections with continuous footsteps can resupply in Cerro Castillo, Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez and Chile Chico and do not need to leave the route to resupply.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is no plannable resupply along the entire Regular Route but some food may be obtained at the two homestead farms on the route.

[Settler (Maria & Julio) @33H-76.9]: Maria and Julio are one of the few settlers that still make cheese for sale in such a remote location. If you are short on foot you might also ask if they may sell some bread, milk or meat.

[Settler (Luis Diaz) @33H-85.2]: Luis : When passing his home consider a visit. You may also ask if he has bread or meat to sell.

[Puesto @33H-98.5]: The puesto 250 m north of Puerto Avellano is rarely occupied by their owners but the fruit trees might provide some well desired vitamins in summer and early autumn.

=Transport to and from Route=
*2026 / Michael and Kasia
Subsidized bus between Puerto Ibáñez and Levican had the same schedule as 2025. WhatsApp to driver +56 9 9506 3176

*2025 / MiaimZelt
Subsidized bus between Puerto Ibañez and Levican every Monday & Friday: Ibañez/levican 8:15 & 17:00, Levican/ibañez 9:00 & 18:00.
Transportes Freddy Morales (+56 9 9506 2906)

*2023 / Maks&Gabi
We hitchhiked from km 136 near Levican to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

*2023 / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numerus given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP.. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507

*Most buses to Villa Cerro Castillo leave Coyhaique in the morning around 08:00 and pass Villa Cerro Castillo approximately 1:30 hours later. In the opposite direction buses pass Cerro Castillo in the early afternoon.

*Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez has regular public transportation to Coyhaique (1:45 hour by bus) and Chile Chico (2:15 hour by ferry). The ferry over Lago General Carrera that connects Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez with Chile Chico does two round trips each day, one in the morning and one the evening. Buses to and from Coyhaique operate synchronized to these ferries.
Best Call Buses Alejandro: +56 9 7652 9546

*Subsidized bus from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Monday and Friday, Approx. 1’000 CLP Morning round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 08:00, arriving in Levican around 09:00 and returning immediately to Ibañez around 09:00 and arriving at Ibanez around 10:00. Evening round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 17:00, arriving in Levican around 18:00 and returning to Ibañez at 18:00 arriving at Ibanez at 19:00.

*Private transport from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Anytime, Approx. 35´000 CLP
Try to call Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

*Combining GPT35 with GPT33H

Northbound hikers may consider connecting GPT35 directly with GPT33H by exiting Parque Patagonia towards Fachinal and crossing Lago General Carrera by motorboat from Fachinal to the Desembocadura Rio Avellano. Here Lago General Carrera is only 3.5 km wide and a motorboat crossing does not take more than 20 minutes. Unfortunately, in summer this requires some patience as the normally strong wind often impedes this. In the morning or the evening the wind occasionally calms down but rarely during the day.

Carlos Amoroz, a settler in Fachinal owns a motorboat and offers this service on request. Pascual Diaz, a tour operator from Mallin Grande, can also provide this service but he must first haul his motorboat the 42 km on trailer from Mallin Grande to Fachinal what makes his service substantially more expensive.

Settler with motorboat in Fachinal (Location: -46.5568°S / -72.2120°W) Name: Carlos Amoroz Mobile: +56-9-76267029 Price: Approx. 30’000 CLP for 2 persons

Tour operator with motorboat in Mallin Grande Name: Pascual Diaz (Company: “Kalem Patagonia”) Mobile: +56-9-7391 7881 Price: Presumably more expensive and advance notice required

This section combination of GPT35 with GPT33H seems more practical in northbound direction as hikers can first talk directly to the settler with the motorboat in Fachinal, resupply in Chile Chico (by taking a motorized transport from Fachinal to Chile Chico and back) and then cross Lago General Carrera with a refilled backpack. While waiting for the wind to calm down hikers can pitch their tent at a nice wind protected camp site on the shore of Lago General Carrera.

Thanks to the reasonably good mobile phone coverage in Fachinal hikers can check the weather and wind forecast and call the settler with the motorboat when approaching Fachinal. This permits hikers to anticipate or discard a motorboat crossing on arrival.

Hikers that attempt a more complicated southbound crossing of Lago General Carrera should make arrangements with the settler with the motorboat at least one or two weeks before arriving at Puerto Avellano, test communication devices (i.e. InReach to mobile phone), agree on the precise pick-up location (Puerto Avellano or Desembocadura Rio Avellano) and carry enough food to wait some time in Puerto Avellano. Hikers should be prepared that the wind may not calm down while waiting several days in Puerto Avellano. In this case the motorboat transfer should canceled, and the hiker should walk out to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez before the food reserves deplete. There is mobile phone coverage at Puerto Avellano (entel if I recall correctly).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*To my knowledge paddling on Lago General Carrera requires a permit from the Armada de Chile but complying with all requirements might not be possible even for a well equipped packrafter (i.e. distress signal rockets).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Puerto Ibañez]]

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Torres del Avellano]]

For additional information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Península de Levican - El Avellano]]

[[Torres del Avellano]]

[[Laguna La Plaza]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Puerto Cristal]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Valle Miller]]

[[Estero Jaramillo]]

A part of this route is described in the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Mirador Este de las Torres de Avellano]]

=Images=

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2026-03-30T21:18:29Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2026-03-30T21:17:23Z

Gharvey: /* Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions */

GPT18 (Lago Pirihueico)

2026-03-30T21:16:33Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT17H (Liquine)

2026-03-30T21:15:25Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT 17 | 1/9 | 1 Day | Var. C, RR, Var. D | RR | Graham Hall'''

Crushed like a can…of tuna.
Actually quite a nice section. Took taxi to start of trail to avoid road walk. I’ll attach business card of driver. Nice and economical.
Variant C starts of some guys property, but he was kind. He explained the path and opened gate for me.
Variant D should be made RR, it is very good.
Ranger from Biological Reserve pulled up on me, said he saw me (not sure how), and I need to register, just for safety. He said he would drive back to me, but by then the RR diverts off main road and I never saw him. It didn’t seem a problem, as route never passes through Ranger Station.
Puerto Fuy is nice, there is free camping all along beach.

* ''' GPT17 | 2026-02-08 to 2026-02-09 I 1 day | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant D - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: After finishing section 16, I bought some snacks in Liquiñe, had a breakfast break there, and continued around 10:30 am with section 17.
I did not see anyone to pay the entrance fee for Laguna Ancacoihue, so I continued without paying. The lagoon was beautiful, even with fog. I was alone there, even though it was Sunday.
The rest of the day was very easy trail - (I took variant D).
I camped at Pozo de Oro (-39.872986, -71.852107), which was a great campsite. There were some people on the beach, but they soon left by boat and I had the whole place to myself.

Day 2: It rained all night. Short hike to Puerto Fuy, still in rain. It took a little more than one hour. I stayed at Hostel Andalue: 25.000 CLP.

Attractiveness: 3/5, Difficulty: 1/5

''' GPT17/2026-1-2/1 day/SOBO/RR and variant B/Denis, Robert'''

Many resupply spots in Liquiñe.
Really nice trail to Laguna Ancacoigue. We didn’t pay any fees to entry. Nice camping spots after Laguna. Easy going route, sometimes bit overgrown but nothing serious.
Good shops in Puerto Fuy.

Attractiveness 2/5
Difficulty 1/5

*''' 2025.25.12 to 2025.26.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris, Stiina and Bailey'''

Day 3 - (Continued from section 16)
After a few refreshments in Liquine we continued hiking all the way up to Laguna Corazon (Laguna Ancacoihue). Bailey managed to get a ride up to the junction with Variant C and saved himself a boring road walk.
We probably could have sneaked past and not pay the entrance fee but we went in at the reception and paid 3k CLP pp. The guy working/living there was very nice and filled up our water bottles.

We camped by the lake here -39.77618, -71.86933 where the official trail that is maintained ends, with sign stating that. The camp by the lake was very nice with some tables and benches. However there aren’t alot of places for tents - one proper space for 1 tent and then a few smaller spaces for one person tent. We had our 2 person tent and Bailey had his one person tent and we managed.
Further along the lake there is a campsite marked on the osm and it seems to have been an established campsite at some point, also with tables and benches, a fireplace and some flat places for the tents but a slightly more longer access to the lake.
To get to the further campsite and to pretty much continue on the RR don’t follow the gpx unless you enjoy a proper obstacle course with the final boss being a difficult barbed wire fence. Stay right on the coast of the lake behind the table with a bench and walk over some partially submerged logs which let you get to the other side of the barbed wire fence with a perfect trail immediately on the other side.
Lots of bird songs in the evening, no cows or cow poo anywhere. Water in the lake very clear and nice temperature, however the bottom of the lake very muddy and will murk up the water if you step in it.
As soon as the sun set the frog choir went mad and it was quite the performance they were putting on all night long until the sunrise. Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

Day 4 - We woke up in a cloud and it soon started raining. The rain continued until about midday and at some points it was borderline torrential rain, really heavy soaking is throughout.
Once past the barbed wire fence the trail was mostly very good, almost a minor road or an old bridleway. We took the RR all the way, though Variant D looked more groomed, Bailey took variant D (by accident) and confirmed it was good, the RR was just a bit more overgrown with some fallen tree obstacles and probably a bit slower, next time I would go with variant D.
Like mentioned in the comments before there were quite a few junctions along the way, leading who knows where (not on any of the map layers) so keep an eye on your nav. Following the red plastic/rubber “Huilo huilo” bird worked, though it would sometimes go a different way than the RR.
I think one could definitely camp by Lago Quilmo. There is a big and new looking nature sign by “Reserva Biologica Huilo Huilo” with different symbols, none prohibiting camping or fires. One of the symbols was Estacionamento, probably for whoever comes with a car there, fishermen?

The rain ceased around the time we got to the pass, right after the Bridge, Camp {17H} [25.0/1212], the bridge along the gpx had collapsed but someone had built a simple new bridge a bit lower down. That’s also when the mostly good trail ended and mostly eroded by rain trail started. It wasn’t great but it also wasn’t terrible.
The trail from Pozo de Oro to Puerto Fuy is mostly alright but also as mentioned before it is not exactly following the gpx, and had a few confusing junctions as to which way to go. Where the gpx goes a sharp down back towards the lake we went up along the gully and then once on the other side of it there is a confusing t-junction we went down for 20m and picked up a good also the correct trail. The rest was more or less straightforward, there was an easy to climb gate here -39.86952, -71.87945 and when we got to Puerto Fuy following the minor road which deviated from the gpx there was a closed get to enter the town but 50m along the fence towards the lake there was an opening to go through.
Puerto Fuy had plenty of small shops we found at least 5 and many places to eat, even a “food court” right across the harbour. We took 5pm bus to Panguipulli 4.5k CLP pp.

Continuing next the sections 19-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2024/25==

15-APR-2025 to 16-APR-2025 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Ben, Stephanie

Route from Puerto Fuy to Liquiñe. Pretty hike through Huilo Huilo Biological Preserve

Great camping on the southwest shore of the unnamed lake at 18.2km and south of Laguna Ancacohue, aka the Heart Lake.

* '''2025-02-17 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+own route / Dorota'''

From Reyehueico to Liquine I took lift. I needed to leave dog unfortunately. Liquine is very nice village with a lot of shops and cafaterias/bar. Laguna Corazón espectacular, paid entrance fee. Trail in forest very easy but there were not a lot of water beginning from laguna corazón. At Laguna Quilmo refugio was destroyed. All way from Liquine followed me another dog till Puerto Fuy. After Laguna Quilmo I took another route using osm, but I can not recommended because of lack of the water. In Puerto Fuy I took camp for 10.000 clp, big one with guard. A lot of place and river. Puerto Fuy has some shops but more bars and restaurantes. Next day decided took buses to reach stage 19. Buses: Puerto Fuy-Panguipulli-Los Lagos-Futrono-Liffen. I started at 9.00 and at 16 I was in Llifen. In bus stop at Los Lagos you can charge electrónica. At Llifen night in Posada de Tourista for 30.000 clp with breakfast (high sezon). Place very nice, WiFi. In liffen some shops and lot of restaurants.

* '''2025-02-17 to 2025-02-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Peggy

This short section is very easy. I arrived in Liquiñe via Route 16 in the afternoon. There are various options for food and shopping.

I left around 5 PM towards Laguna Ancacoihue (Laguna Corazón). I managed to get a ride to the entrance of the road leading to the lake. At that time, many tourist cars were going down, but few were going up, so I was lucky to be picked up by locals.

Laguna Corazón is definitely worth a visit. It is stunning, with lots of animal sounds. I arrived just as the last visitors were leaving. I didn’t pay an entrance fee because I didn’t meet anyone at the bottom, but otherwise, the cost is 3,000 CLP.

I set up my tent at the spot with tables (watch out for cows coming to drink!). There is another campsite further into the forest with a cooking area for making fires.

The trail down, which partially circles the lake, is beautiful and offers a great experience of the Valdivian forest. For me, this was the most scenic part of the hike.

I spent the second night at Pozo del Oro, where I arrived early. A woman was there for the afternoon. It’s a perfect spot for swimming, doing laundry, and making a fire in the evening. The place is pleasant and beautiful (a few ferries and boats passed by, but it’s not a highway!). However, like everywhere (including Europe!), there was a lot of toilet paper left behind.

The next morning, I headed down to Puerto Fuy, hoping to take the ferry to Route 18. However, all tickets were sold out for the day. The only option was to return at 5 AM the next morning to try and buy a ticket for later in the day. I decided to skip it and took a series of buses to Route 19 instead (Panguipulli–Los Lagos–Paillaco–Futrono–Llifén). I left Puerto Fuy around 1:30–2 PM and arrived in Llifén around 8 PM. The connections were smooth.

* '''2025-01-08 / 1 day / SOBO / RR Packrafting / Mara and Tobias

Beautiful floating! No dangerous streamers or rapids in the river. We boiled the water before drinking, since there are many cows and we saw settlers doing their laundry by the river. We could not cross Lago Neltume because of strong winds.

* ''' 2025-JAN-07 > 08 / 1 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 2/5
| Difficulté : 0/5
| Danger : aucun

J'ai essayé de faire du stop mais personne ne s'est arreté alors j'ai acheté un peu de nourriture et suis allé dejeuner au restaurant a Liquine.
Il faut prendre la 17H-D au km 15,7 car la RR est en mauvais etat.
Le sentier est bien balisé et en parfait état partout ailleurs. Pas de refuge au km 18,2, il y a un pont au km 21,9, pas de place pour camper au km 25,0 ni au 27,5. Pas de porte au km 34,4. Ce n'est pas une rain forest, il n'y a pas de boue ni de zone humide. Il n'y a que de petites epiceries a Puerto Fuy.

*'''2025-JAN-04 to 2025-JAN-05 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / Var. 12-01, RR + OH (Var. B, C) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A simple and short section featuring wild and very dense Valdivian forests. Worth mentioning are two beautiful lakes, Lago Quilmo and Lago Pirihueico.

We left Carriñe Bajo around noon, heading toward Liquiñe via variant {17H-B}, where we resupplied at a shop. Liquiñe has several shops, all fairly well-stocked. We began ascending and, around kilometer 11, left the RR route for variant {17H-C}, rejoining the RR at Camp Without Water {17H} [15.8/917]. Lago Quilmo is truly beautiful and surrounded by dense forest. Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes.

The trail to Lago Pirihueico is well-maintained and beautifully designed. For the first time, we even saw fir trees here. At Ford {17H} [21.9/994], we didn’t need to ford the river, as there’s a small bridge.

Upon arriving at the crystal-clear Lago Pirihueico, we found a lovely spot with a picnic table, fire pit, and a perfect bivouac area at coordinates -39.87309, -71.85218. The remainder of the route to Puerto Fuy follows a picturesque trail with occasional views of the lake.

*'''29Dec2024 - 30dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR - varD - RR / 1.5 days / Clara'''

Bus from coñaripe to liquiñe 2x/day except sunday no one. You can ask schedules in the supermarkets of coñaripe.

Short and easy section, nice forest and lakes.

Camp :
- at km10 nice camping 6500/pers.

- Pozo de oro. Table, flat spot, nice to swim in the lake. Good water flowing in the river just beside.

(I don't know why there is no camp at laguna quilmo but seems to be used and should be nice to camp.)

Navigation : MR until km12, can hitchhike if lucky.
Then good trail or old road, often marked with red huilo-huilo birds, easy.

Then not hard to skip 18. Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

* '''24-12-26- 24-12-27/ 1,5 days / SOBO / RR/ Volker'''

The forest section - beautiful, short and smooth
Day 1: I took buses from Pucon to Villarica to Panguipulli to Liquine, arrived there in the late afternoon. I bypassed the entrance gate for Laguna Curazon by walking over the steep meadow to the left of the MR (though probably at 6.30 p.m. there was nobody anyway). Camped close to the end of this meadow, hidden from the farm below by a tree. Lovely place!
Day 2: Started very early to avoid possible conflicts as I camped so close to the farm. Laguna Curazon magic at 7 a.m. The first 50 around the lake a bit tricky, the water level is higher than on the OSM and you have to climb a small canyon and bypass a barbed wire fence to get on the trail. Very impressing trees, plants and a second lake. But use your device, there are many paths and MRs. Later you more or less walk the km down. 2 indicated „bridges“ either destroyed or very special „bridges“, nevertheless easy. Bridge at the indicated ford. Down at Laguna Perihueico I had enough time for swimming. But notice, that the way to Puerto Fuy is not along the lake, it‘s up and down, moreover I had some navigation problems. The track files do not correspond to the actual trail (partly ca. 70m away, first south, later north). Follow the signs with the red rubberbird („Huilo Huilo“). I took the 5 p.m. ferry (last one) to Perihueico. Didn‘t see a shop for resupply in Puerto Fuy, in Perihueico definitively just restaurants. Walked until the indicated camp spot on the beach at the end of the packraft route (first broken trees, soon easy MR) and camped there to start gpt 18 the next day.

* '''Start 2024-11-20/ 2d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Resupply in Liquine, hot MR to trail to Laguna Corazon, then MR/trail that should be completely cleared to Puerto Fuy. Resupply in small supermarkets there. Camping should be possible at the beach. Ferry 2x/d.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-29 to 2024-Mar-31 / 2 days / SOBO / B RR D / Matthias de Austria'''

Short and easy section. Some nice lakes and hiking through dense valdivian rain forest. No tabanos nor mosquitos, snowfields or wet feet fords. Parts might be muddy after heavy rainfall. Limited water beside lakes. No water at water? 20.3/942 no gate at 17.4/985

Gate 12.0/801: Entry fee 3k. Toilet there, waste bin and some benches with volcano view. Possible camp at -39.777226,-71.870598 close to laguna Ancacoihue/Corazon, which has quite sediment rich water.

Camped inside the hut at -39.797914,-71.848616 due to rainy forecast. No direct access to the lake there, but a 5min walk south at lake, no camp 18.2/978. Don't know why no camp here, I think there is plenty of space and no forbidden sign around. Possible to swim but first 2m grown shore, then suddenly very deep. Refuge 18.2/978 burned down.

First water from stream at -39.824602,-71.851464, there is also a bridge at -39.824787,-71.851347
Don't miss junction at -39.826732,-71.848505, you have to turn right to the bad road otherwise you will walk to laguna chan chan.

I put a log on ford 31.0/610 for dry feet crossing. Plenty of campsides around, fireplaces, a table...lake is the best for swimming, easy access, clean almost warm water end of March.

Next to water 34.0/646 a camp should be possible.

Shortly before Puerto Fuy don't follow the road, it leads to a locked gated at -39.870979,-71.889116. Or do so, then just walk a minute along the fence direction to the lake until there is a easy to walk through whole in the fence.

* '''2024-03-06 // 1 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + variant B // Quentin Clavel'''

From Puerto Fuy, it's a smooth hike until liquine, where the trail is easy to follow.

At PK 13,7 you'll reach Laguna ancacoihue, that has been transformed into a tiny and cute touristic hike, because of the heart formed by this Laguna. So you'll probably see some people walking threw this "Laguna Corrazon" to/from the end of the gravel road PK 12.
During these 2 kilometers, the trail is very well marked and indicated, there's even ramps to helps you to go up/down. An amazing Mirador has been setup as well with sick view on the volcanoes Villarica end Lanin. Nice place indeed !

As I came nobo, I haven't had to pay anything, but probably going SOBO, you'll pass the entrance of this hike first (at the end of the gravel road) and have to pay to access here.

Then after 10 kilometers on a gravel road, you'll reach the asphalt and arrive in liquine.
I passed threw the "center" where there's at least one hospedaje, few minimarkets, place to eat and few thermals.

After a necessary stop at the panadería/café for some dulces and fresh fruits juice (Variant B, passing threw the city) I continued my way to the next section.

* '''2024-Jan-20 to 2024-Jan-21 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / {17H-A} - {17H-B} - RR - {17H-D} - RR / Lilian'''

{17H-A} km0 : Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Km1.55 : two tiny shops here. (-39.70430, -71.86316)

Then i joined RR.

RR km0.95 : tiny shop. (-39.71282, -71.85403)

Km1.95 : tiny shop. (-39.72135, -71.85373)

Then i take {17H-B} keep going on the main road.

{17H-B} km0.55 : two small shop and one tiny shop just beside the "Liquiñe" waypoint. Lot of food resupply options, also some restaurants nearby.

Km1.3 : junction of RR and {17H-B}, a tiny shop here(-39.74016, -71.85511), if you want to cross Río Liquiñe to hot spring, it is the correct place. Ask the staff in shop, and they'll find somebody to row the boat for you.

RR ferry[5.7/237] : if noone here, ask at the tiny shop beside the road. As they said, looks like the earliest time for rowing boat is 9:30am, until maybe 8pm? Because i crossed here at 8pm. I'm not sure how much for the boat, maybe 500 CLP, but i paid 1000 CLP because I arrived here too late, and the guy need to go to some place else for finding the key to unlock the boat for me.

Walking on a clear path to Termas Punulaf. The price for camping in 2024 is 20,000 CLP. The hot spring looks like a swimming pool, that of course hot spring water, with perfect temperature. About the camping, picnic table, light, a line for hanging clothes, sandy spot, toilet and covered by a shelter.

Soaking the hot spring in early morning, sit beside the inlet for relaxing, it makes a good start of a new day!

It is the HIGHLIGHT of GPT16's ending or start of GPT17, don't miss it!

Km6.3 : tiny shop(-39.74271, -71.85464).

Lucky me, get two rides from X,shop[7.1/308] to gate[12.0/801] directly!

Km10.95 : bus stop, maybe bus comes to here?

Gate[12.0/801] : talk with a young guy at here, register some basic information but no fee need to pay, he also fill up my water bottle, thank you to him!

From here to km13.4(Laguna Ancacoihue), steep climb up but very easy to follow, just follow some red sticks to go, lot of benches for rest, handrail if you need and some nice viewpoint platforms. The viewpoint at (-39.77073, -71.86505), beautiful platform with Chile flag, background are Volcán Villarrica, Lanín and the valley of Liquiñe, such a amazing picture!

When you arrive Laguna Ancacoihue maybe a little confused where is the trail to go. Trail is under blowdowns now for a few meters. Walk a little close to the lake(no need wet feet) and go around the fence that covered by blowdowns, a nice trail(road) is beside the fence.

After you follow the road walking about 5-10 min, you'll find some Red Bird sign(Huglo Huglo) and white red print at tree. They'll leads you to the Lago Quilmo(km17.4), follow them! If you see a white red print "X", it means "this is a wrong way".

Km13.7 : camping spot with fire ring, log sests, benches, picnic table. Still some more flat spots in 100m south.

Km15.6 : junction of RR and {17H-C}, a white red print "X" and lot sticks are put on the way to north.

Km15.8 : junction of RR and {17H-D}, RR is blocked by many huge blowdowns, Red Bird and white red print is at {17H-D}, also the road looks clear, so go for it.

{17H-D} km0.1 : sky blue ribbon start, it'll leads you the way too.

Km1.45 : Junction. Red Bird and white red print at left side go around the lake at east side, sky blue ribbon at right follow RR at west side. Go for RR.

Rejoin RR, and there are some blowdowns on RR at here too, i think {17H-D} is replaced RR completely.

Gate RR[17.4/995] : no gate.

Km18.05 : an empty hut(-39.79772, -71.84869) without door and windows, wooden floor is in good condition and clean. Looks like can used for staying away from bad weather.

Refuge[18.2/978] : The cabin? Hut? Is already burnt down. Just leave a burn out area and and an empty small hut, but lot of trash and dirty inside. The hut at previous is much better.

Lake,no camp[18.2/978] : at least five fire pit here...in a very small area. Why don't people just use other's old pit? Burning another green area is fun?

The water condition at here is better than Laguna Ancacoihue.

Km18.45 : four way junction, met Red Bird and white red print agian, but we still follow the sky blue ribbon.

X[18.9/1016] : junction to Laguna Chan Chan, Red Bird and white red print on the way to Laguna Chan Chan, follow sky blue ribbon and turn right here.

X[19.9/927] : sky blue ribbon go right. New colour, orange ribbon go left for RR. No more sky blue ribbon on your hike.

Water?[20.3/942] : no water here.

Ford[21.9/994] : beautiful water! A bridge here now. Crystal clear swimming pool at just downstream, nice spot for hot day. Some huge blowdowns help you go down to the pool.

Km23.15 : Red Bird again, follow it and orange ribbon all the way to Pozo de Oro.

Bridge,camp[25.0/1212] : bridge for cars already broken, just left a exciting log here. Better turn right go down for board bridge crossing. I didn't see any flat or camping spot. Water flowing slowly.

Km25.9 : views of Volcán Mocho (very little).

Km26 : road turns to a single track trail gradually.

Bridge,camp[27.5/1026] : bridge for cars already broken too. Cross by a log bridge now. Water flowing good and slowly. Grassland can fit 1-2 tents before go down for the crossing.

After some forest tunnel, you'll arrive Pozo de Oro, camping spot can fit many tents covered by tall trees, with fire ring, benches and picnic table. Also it is close to the lake.

Ford[31.0/610] : dry feet crossing, another crossing after here 100m, above ankle, or you can log crossing at 30m downstream.

Lake,camp[31.1/672] : sandy spot can fit 1 tent under a tree with lake views, i met some friendly locals driving their boat to here when i camped at weekends. Sleep with the peacey lake wave is great!

Keep follow Red Bird and orange ribbon for a little more.

Km31.4 : three way junction, DON'T follow orange ribbon climb up at right side, going straight on left side.

Km31.5 : three way junction, RR is turn left going down, OSM have a trail going right climb up for short cut. RR is in better condition, but OSM one is also good condition and much shorter. It'll connect RR at km31.75. And Red Bird start here.

Km31.75 : four way junction, if you follow OSM trail, turn right and climb up. If you follow RR, go straight and climb up.

After about 300m, Red Bird and white red print again! You can follow them, but they are not so frequently like before, also will disappear after a while.

Water[34.0/646] : grassland can fit 1-3 tents before the beautiful water, it is flowing low but clear and taste good. After here, trail becomes a dirt road.

Km34.3 : The wooden platform that Coline & Hermann slept still in progress about 70%, have windows and door, already locked up.

Km34.5 : huge flat area beside the beach under some trees, (car) camping spot.

Bridge[34.9/630] : log bridge crossing, (car) camping spot about 50m before it.

Km35.0 - km35.2: Camping Gratis, huge beautiful grassland (car) camping spot, i saw about 20 cars and many tents at Sunday morning. Spot covered by trees is loved by cars, hiker better camping at km35.2, no trees and car campers don't like it.

Km35.3 : some more (car) camping spot here, close to beach.

About the ferry and time schedule in 2024,

Tourist information center (-39.87183, -71.88962), you can buy the ferry tickets to Puerto Pirehueico at here, 1150 CLP one way. They also help me charging the power bank, super thank you to them!

Ferry from Puerto Fuy to Puerto Pirehueico:
Monday(07:00,13:30,18:00), Tuesday to Thursday(09:00,13:30,18:00), Friday(07:00,12:30,17:00), Saturday and Sunday(08:00,12:30,17:00)

Ferry from Puerto Pirehueico to Puerto Fuy:
Monday(09:00,16:00,20:30), Tuesday to Thursday(11:30,16:00,20:30), Friday(09:00,15:00,19:30), Saturday and Sunday(10:30,15:00,19:30)

Resupply in Puerto Fuy,

(-39.87320, -71.89134), (-39.87307, -71.89179), (-39.87373, -71.89390), (-39.87373, -71.89551), (-39.87375, -71.89775) : five tiny shops, combine together it is enough to resupply.

It is a tourist town, so lot of accommodation here, cabins or campground. Also some nice restaurants too.

When you are waiting the ferry, you can go for a boat tour, kayak trip, or take a nap on the beach under a big tree(-39.87178, -71.88877) like me.

* '''2024-Jan-13 to 2024-Jan-14 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : at km 31,1 really nice camp on the lac with a table
- Weather : Sunny and cloudy
- Resupply : we had ressuply in conaripe, also possible in Linquine
- Entry fee : at km 12 we had to pay 3000 pesos to use the track to the Laguna del Corazon
Easy section

* '''2024-05-01 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from Liquine Alto / Jens '''

Easy walk on forest road and single trail for the last 20km. I was a bit confused by the different trails. The right one was not always the most beaten one.
The ferry schedule at El fuy has changed. It is now 8 am. Timetable in the article of section 18.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-jan-27 to 2023-jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RH + Laguna Chan Chan / Coline & Hermann'''

After sleeping on a wooden platform nearby at work-in-progress house at some 1km after the gratis camping of Puerto Fuy (nice view on the lake, the city and the volcano Mocho Choshuenco), we walked northbound on the regular route of the GPT17.

It is also still possible to camp on a tiny beach which the trail reaches (Camp {18-F} [1.2/672]). From there, it took us time to find the trail, because it actually required to... walk on a tweenty meters long fallen tree !

It seems possible to avoid this, by following the path marked with red bird signs.

During the sloapse after, the road turns into a 4x4 road, where you may meet some cyclists going southbound – fast as arrows !

We arrived at the crossroad (the one either following the trail or going to the lake Chan-Chan) at the end of the day, after 1000m up in altitud, and found a place to sleep on the way up, inbeetween two rivers.

The next day, we stopped several hours at the beautiful volcano lake, where one's can make fire nearby the wooden tables. The clear water is not deep, which makes it perfect for sitting and refershing – surrounded by the mountains.

We went back on the GPT, and noticed that the refuge at the arrival to the lake Quilmo has burned.

It is less attractive to swim there because of the vegetation. It is even more the case for the lake which takes place north-east of the optional road of the GPT (OH-TL-V {17H-D} [0.0+1.5]). However, it was nice to see so many lakes during this section !

Actually, the last one – the laguna Anacoihue – was the cutest one. As you see on the map, it's in shape of a heart ! There is a camping place on the west side, where you can make fire and leave your stuff to walk to the "mirador" at the inner point of the heart (at the sunset, for example).

The next day, we walked the way down to Liquiñe in the morning. There are wooden sculptures, benches and games for (little and grown-up) kids, until one's reaches the plains. From there, we could see the volcano Villarica, which was smoking (so maybe avoid to go to the glacier Pichillancahue or even at the summit of the volczno, if you plan doing the GPT16-04 after... Or at least, have a look on RED).

We could easily resupply at Liquiñe and even found bottles of gas (Pro-Gas) in the "fereteria" some 200m down the main road (Ruta 201 CH), after it crosses the road leading to the Termas Trafipan, in front of a white building.

The hot springs marked on the map are now "infrastructured" (so to say), which means they are not for free anymore, but also that you can charge your phone (for free if asking) and/or spend the night (for 15 to 25mil pesos / person / night) and enjoy the swimming pools.

In fact, we were told (after) that there is a natural hot spring only known by inhabitants.

* '''2023-Jan-31 to 2023-Feb-01 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 17h-C / Maks & Gabi '''

Nice and easy trail even though the ascent on the beginning which follows dirty road with a lot of cars.
We took OH 17h-C which is not worth it, there is a new gate on the way, and when we tried to go through the forest there were lots of fences.
Than as written below the trail is marked and well maintained. We were doing RR, and it wasn't owergrown anywhere ( there is only one place somewhere around km 32 of RR when it's more worth to follow red bird sign than GPS navi, they are connecting once again after 100m)
We were sleeping at Camping gratis in Puerto Fuy, it was ok, but there is a lot of homeless dogs and it's quite a lot of people and noise during the night. Puerto Fuy is a quite big and there are many buses (almost every hour ) to Panguipulli.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Laguna Chan Chan / Will '''

Amazing section, don't skip it! Just make sure to take the openstreetmap route by Laguna Chan Chan instead of the main route.

I camped at the Termas de Punulaf after arriving via section 12. 15000 pesos, somewhat quiet, with some swimming pool style hot springs. Even a little restaurant. In the morning I walked along the field down to the river, where a kid rowed me across into town (500 pesos). Lots of shops for resupply.

The road walk up to the Laguna Corazon (aka Ankacoihue) trailhead would have been rough, thankfully I was blessed with a ride most of the way up. At the trailhead you'll find a nice lodge/cafe where I had to register and pay 2500 to hike to the lake. It's a cute trail, complete with benches and art and motivational signs. Great views of the valley.

After Laguna Corazon you'll end up on the Huilo Huilo trail, where you can follow the red bird trail markers all the way to Puerto Fuy along well maintained trail and dirt roads. Though the park's route seems to diverge from the main route twice, following variant D and the trail to Laguna Chan Chan.

Variant D looked to be a well maintained (slightly bland) road, vs the main route which is an old road in the process of being reclaimed by the forest. Currently the main route's still not bad walking.

The trail approaching Laguna Chan Chan from the north was a highlight: thin, slower, steeper, more intimate. It eventually merges onto a dirt road heading down from the lake and west. The main route here was a plain gravel road (I went the wrong way along it for a few km).

There's well maintained campsites with picnic tables and everything at Laguna Corazon/Ankacoihue, Laguna Chan Chan, and at Pozo de Oro near the end.

The ferry at Puerto Fuy was sold out all day by the time I got there around noon.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Lago Chanchan / Matthieu '''

Another part of the Huilo Huilo parc, no entry fees in this sens. Nice for the forest walkers the like flowers and calm.
Tracks well maintained in the form of 4x4 roads, easy to follow (Little red plastic birds sticked on the trees).
I agree with Martina and Ivo on the attractivity of this section. There are a few lakes to see on the way, if you get off the RR, and it is worth the effort. The savage beach just a few kilometers after Puerto Fuy is a paradise to camp.
Liquiñe is a nice place to rest, with camping and thermal water. Lots of shops.

- Lago Chanchan :

Talking to chilean hikers there, the main attraction seems to be the Lago Chanchan, which is actually a lake in a volcano crater, with a little beach, and a wonderful place to camp. I took the detour to go.
From the waypoint "Refugio?" (which is actually the house of Juan, whose mission is just to take the names of the people going south, just for safety if they get lost. No fees, no stress. Juan is really nice and I could enjoy a nice coffee and discussion with him.), I came back going southbound to the Div 108. Then you take the little forest trail, that goes up gor 2-3 hours until the lake Chanchan. It is a little technical trail cutted in the bamboos, but in this sense easy to follow, following the little red birds. Just before the lake there is a Div where you arrive to a 4x4 trail. One road goes north to the lake, and the other one goes south to the "pozo del Oro", and I assume that this trail join the RR between "Bridge, camp2" and "DIV 110" I didnt explore it the next day thow, going back on my tracks by the little bamboo trail because I was initially going northbound. SO there is a path exploitable from the south part of the section, leaving the RR on a minor road, going to the lake Chanchan, and then going back to RR taking this little trail to the Div 108, making your experience really more attractive.

* '''2020-Feb-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Here is our advertisement for this beautiful section: From Liquiñe alto to the beginning of the forest: great view to the volcanoes Villarica and Lanín. Nice trail to the enchanted Laguna Ankacoigüe. Then beginning of the Reserva Biológica Huilo-Huilo Sector Norte: stunningly huge trees and a sudden change of landscape, entering Valdivian rainforest for the first time. Only a short part of minor road between waypoint "lake, no camp" and the highest point of the section. The whole descent to Puerto Fuy is a attractive trail through pretty rainforest with views to the Volcán Choshuenco. 4 km before the village you find this pristine hidden lonely beach, perfect for a last rest before you arrive at busy touristy Puerto Fuy.

Our rating: 3

Don't skip ;-)

* '''2020-Feb-08 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

I met Martina & Ivo on the route & agree with their above comments. This section was an unexpected highlight & the campsite on the lake was the best. When you reach the lake you cross a river then arrive at the campsite which you will probably have to yourself. Avoid the campsites near Puerto Fuy as there are lots of car campers there.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

Liquine: Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at 39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

In Liquine there are a few small shops. There are also some open air markets, you can get breakfast & lunch there. They open around 10:30 AM. 2 restaurants in Liquine but neither of them was open when I was there (Feb 2020)

There are a few places advertising cabins on the road in to Liquine & as you leave Liquine southbound there are two cheap hotels.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT17H - Liquiñe]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228012.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H - Liquiñe]]
[[File:GP_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228017.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H]]
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[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228016.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT17H (Liquine)

2026-03-30T21:14:54Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT 17 | 1/9 | 1 Day | Var. C, RR, Var. D, RR'''

Crushed like a can…of tuna.
Actually quite a nice section. Took taxi to start of trail to avoid road walk. I’ll attach business card of driver. Nice and economical.
Variant C starts of some guys property, but he was kind. He explained the path and opened gate for me.
Variant D should be made RR, it is very good.
Ranger from Biological Reserve pulled up on me, said he saw me (not sure how), and I need to register, just for safety. He said he would drive back to me, but by then the RR diverts off main road and I never saw him. It didn’t seem a problem, as route never passes through Ranger Station.
Puerto Fuy is nice, there is free camping all along beach.

* ''' GPT17 | 2026-02-08 to 2026-02-09 I 1 day | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant D - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: After finishing section 16, I bought some snacks in Liquiñe, had a breakfast break there, and continued around 10:30 am with section 17.
I did not see anyone to pay the entrance fee for Laguna Ancacoihue, so I continued without paying. The lagoon was beautiful, even with fog. I was alone there, even though it was Sunday.
The rest of the day was very easy trail - (I took variant D).
I camped at Pozo de Oro (-39.872986, -71.852107), which was a great campsite. There were some people on the beach, but they soon left by boat and I had the whole place to myself.

Day 2: It rained all night. Short hike to Puerto Fuy, still in rain. It took a little more than one hour. I stayed at Hostel Andalue: 25.000 CLP.

Attractiveness: 3/5, Difficulty: 1/5

''' GPT17/2026-1-2/1 day/SOBO/RR and variant B/Denis, Robert'''

Many resupply spots in Liquiñe.
Really nice trail to Laguna Ancacoigue. We didn’t pay any fees to entry. Nice camping spots after Laguna. Easy going route, sometimes bit overgrown but nothing serious.
Good shops in Puerto Fuy.

Attractiveness 2/5
Difficulty 1/5

*''' 2025.25.12 to 2025.26.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris, Stiina and Bailey'''

Day 3 - (Continued from section 16)
After a few refreshments in Liquine we continued hiking all the way up to Laguna Corazon (Laguna Ancacoihue). Bailey managed to get a ride up to the junction with Variant C and saved himself a boring road walk.
We probably could have sneaked past and not pay the entrance fee but we went in at the reception and paid 3k CLP pp. The guy working/living there was very nice and filled up our water bottles.

We camped by the lake here -39.77618, -71.86933 where the official trail that is maintained ends, with sign stating that. The camp by the lake was very nice with some tables and benches. However there aren’t alot of places for tents - one proper space for 1 tent and then a few smaller spaces for one person tent. We had our 2 person tent and Bailey had his one person tent and we managed.
Further along the lake there is a campsite marked on the osm and it seems to have been an established campsite at some point, also with tables and benches, a fireplace and some flat places for the tents but a slightly more longer access to the lake.
To get to the further campsite and to pretty much continue on the RR don’t follow the gpx unless you enjoy a proper obstacle course with the final boss being a difficult barbed wire fence. Stay right on the coast of the lake behind the table with a bench and walk over some partially submerged logs which let you get to the other side of the barbed wire fence with a perfect trail immediately on the other side.
Lots of bird songs in the evening, no cows or cow poo anywhere. Water in the lake very clear and nice temperature, however the bottom of the lake very muddy and will murk up the water if you step in it.
As soon as the sun set the frog choir went mad and it was quite the performance they were putting on all night long until the sunrise. Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

Day 4 - We woke up in a cloud and it soon started raining. The rain continued until about midday and at some points it was borderline torrential rain, really heavy soaking is throughout.
Once past the barbed wire fence the trail was mostly very good, almost a minor road or an old bridleway. We took the RR all the way, though Variant D looked more groomed, Bailey took variant D (by accident) and confirmed it was good, the RR was just a bit more overgrown with some fallen tree obstacles and probably a bit slower, next time I would go with variant D.
Like mentioned in the comments before there were quite a few junctions along the way, leading who knows where (not on any of the map layers) so keep an eye on your nav. Following the red plastic/rubber “Huilo huilo” bird worked, though it would sometimes go a different way than the RR.
I think one could definitely camp by Lago Quilmo. There is a big and new looking nature sign by “Reserva Biologica Huilo Huilo” with different symbols, none prohibiting camping or fires. One of the symbols was Estacionamento, probably for whoever comes with a car there, fishermen?

The rain ceased around the time we got to the pass, right after the Bridge, Camp {17H} [25.0/1212], the bridge along the gpx had collapsed but someone had built a simple new bridge a bit lower down. That’s also when the mostly good trail ended and mostly eroded by rain trail started. It wasn’t great but it also wasn’t terrible.
The trail from Pozo de Oro to Puerto Fuy is mostly alright but also as mentioned before it is not exactly following the gpx, and had a few confusing junctions as to which way to go. Where the gpx goes a sharp down back towards the lake we went up along the gully and then once on the other side of it there is a confusing t-junction we went down for 20m and picked up a good also the correct trail. The rest was more or less straightforward, there was an easy to climb gate here -39.86952, -71.87945 and when we got to Puerto Fuy following the minor road which deviated from the gpx there was a closed get to enter the town but 50m along the fence towards the lake there was an opening to go through.
Puerto Fuy had plenty of small shops we found at least 5 and many places to eat, even a “food court” right across the harbour. We took 5pm bus to Panguipulli 4.5k CLP pp.

Continuing next the sections 19-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2024/25==

15-APR-2025 to 16-APR-2025 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Ben, Stephanie

Route from Puerto Fuy to Liquiñe. Pretty hike through Huilo Huilo Biological Preserve

Great camping on the southwest shore of the unnamed lake at 18.2km and south of Laguna Ancacohue, aka the Heart Lake.

* '''2025-02-17 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+own route / Dorota'''

From Reyehueico to Liquine I took lift. I needed to leave dog unfortunately. Liquine is very nice village with a lot of shops and cafaterias/bar. Laguna Corazón espectacular, paid entrance fee. Trail in forest very easy but there were not a lot of water beginning from laguna corazón. At Laguna Quilmo refugio was destroyed. All way from Liquine followed me another dog till Puerto Fuy. After Laguna Quilmo I took another route using osm, but I can not recommended because of lack of the water. In Puerto Fuy I took camp for 10.000 clp, big one with guard. A lot of place and river. Puerto Fuy has some shops but more bars and restaurantes. Next day decided took buses to reach stage 19. Buses: Puerto Fuy-Panguipulli-Los Lagos-Futrono-Liffen. I started at 9.00 and at 16 I was in Llifen. In bus stop at Los Lagos you can charge electrónica. At Llifen night in Posada de Tourista for 30.000 clp with breakfast (high sezon). Place very nice, WiFi. In liffen some shops and lot of restaurants.

* '''2025-02-17 to 2025-02-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Peggy

This short section is very easy. I arrived in Liquiñe via Route 16 in the afternoon. There are various options for food and shopping.

I left around 5 PM towards Laguna Ancacoihue (Laguna Corazón). I managed to get a ride to the entrance of the road leading to the lake. At that time, many tourist cars were going down, but few were going up, so I was lucky to be picked up by locals.

Laguna Corazón is definitely worth a visit. It is stunning, with lots of animal sounds. I arrived just as the last visitors were leaving. I didn’t pay an entrance fee because I didn’t meet anyone at the bottom, but otherwise, the cost is 3,000 CLP.

I set up my tent at the spot with tables (watch out for cows coming to drink!). There is another campsite further into the forest with a cooking area for making fires.

The trail down, which partially circles the lake, is beautiful and offers a great experience of the Valdivian forest. For me, this was the most scenic part of the hike.

I spent the second night at Pozo del Oro, where I arrived early. A woman was there for the afternoon. It’s a perfect spot for swimming, doing laundry, and making a fire in the evening. The place is pleasant and beautiful (a few ferries and boats passed by, but it’s not a highway!). However, like everywhere (including Europe!), there was a lot of toilet paper left behind.

The next morning, I headed down to Puerto Fuy, hoping to take the ferry to Route 18. However, all tickets were sold out for the day. The only option was to return at 5 AM the next morning to try and buy a ticket for later in the day. I decided to skip it and took a series of buses to Route 19 instead (Panguipulli–Los Lagos–Paillaco–Futrono–Llifén). I left Puerto Fuy around 1:30–2 PM and arrived in Llifén around 8 PM. The connections were smooth.

* '''2025-01-08 / 1 day / SOBO / RR Packrafting / Mara and Tobias

Beautiful floating! No dangerous streamers or rapids in the river. We boiled the water before drinking, since there are many cows and we saw settlers doing their laundry by the river. We could not cross Lago Neltume because of strong winds.

* ''' 2025-JAN-07 > 08 / 1 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 2/5
| Difficulté : 0/5
| Danger : aucun

J'ai essayé de faire du stop mais personne ne s'est arreté alors j'ai acheté un peu de nourriture et suis allé dejeuner au restaurant a Liquine.
Il faut prendre la 17H-D au km 15,7 car la RR est en mauvais etat.
Le sentier est bien balisé et en parfait état partout ailleurs. Pas de refuge au km 18,2, il y a un pont au km 21,9, pas de place pour camper au km 25,0 ni au 27,5. Pas de porte au km 34,4. Ce n'est pas une rain forest, il n'y a pas de boue ni de zone humide. Il n'y a que de petites epiceries a Puerto Fuy.

*'''2025-JAN-04 to 2025-JAN-05 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / Var. 12-01, RR + OH (Var. B, C) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A simple and short section featuring wild and very dense Valdivian forests. Worth mentioning are two beautiful lakes, Lago Quilmo and Lago Pirihueico.

We left Carriñe Bajo around noon, heading toward Liquiñe via variant {17H-B}, where we resupplied at a shop. Liquiñe has several shops, all fairly well-stocked. We began ascending and, around kilometer 11, left the RR route for variant {17H-C}, rejoining the RR at Camp Without Water {17H} [15.8/917]. Lago Quilmo is truly beautiful and surrounded by dense forest. Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes.

The trail to Lago Pirihueico is well-maintained and beautifully designed. For the first time, we even saw fir trees here. At Ford {17H} [21.9/994], we didn’t need to ford the river, as there’s a small bridge.

Upon arriving at the crystal-clear Lago Pirihueico, we found a lovely spot with a picnic table, fire pit, and a perfect bivouac area at coordinates -39.87309, -71.85218. The remainder of the route to Puerto Fuy follows a picturesque trail with occasional views of the lake.

*'''29Dec2024 - 30dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR - varD - RR / 1.5 days / Clara'''

Bus from coñaripe to liquiñe 2x/day except sunday no one. You can ask schedules in the supermarkets of coñaripe.

Short and easy section, nice forest and lakes.

Camp :
- at km10 nice camping 6500/pers.

- Pozo de oro. Table, flat spot, nice to swim in the lake. Good water flowing in the river just beside.

(I don't know why there is no camp at laguna quilmo but seems to be used and should be nice to camp.)

Navigation : MR until km12, can hitchhike if lucky.
Then good trail or old road, often marked with red huilo-huilo birds, easy.

Then not hard to skip 18. Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

* '''24-12-26- 24-12-27/ 1,5 days / SOBO / RR/ Volker'''

The forest section - beautiful, short and smooth
Day 1: I took buses from Pucon to Villarica to Panguipulli to Liquine, arrived there in the late afternoon. I bypassed the entrance gate for Laguna Curazon by walking over the steep meadow to the left of the MR (though probably at 6.30 p.m. there was nobody anyway). Camped close to the end of this meadow, hidden from the farm below by a tree. Lovely place!
Day 2: Started very early to avoid possible conflicts as I camped so close to the farm. Laguna Curazon magic at 7 a.m. The first 50 around the lake a bit tricky, the water level is higher than on the OSM and you have to climb a small canyon and bypass a barbed wire fence to get on the trail. Very impressing trees, plants and a second lake. But use your device, there are many paths and MRs. Later you more or less walk the km down. 2 indicated „bridges“ either destroyed or very special „bridges“, nevertheless easy. Bridge at the indicated ford. Down at Laguna Perihueico I had enough time for swimming. But notice, that the way to Puerto Fuy is not along the lake, it‘s up and down, moreover I had some navigation problems. The track files do not correspond to the actual trail (partly ca. 70m away, first south, later north). Follow the signs with the red rubberbird („Huilo Huilo“). I took the 5 p.m. ferry (last one) to Perihueico. Didn‘t see a shop for resupply in Puerto Fuy, in Perihueico definitively just restaurants. Walked until the indicated camp spot on the beach at the end of the packraft route (first broken trees, soon easy MR) and camped there to start gpt 18 the next day.

* '''Start 2024-11-20/ 2d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Resupply in Liquine, hot MR to trail to Laguna Corazon, then MR/trail that should be completely cleared to Puerto Fuy. Resupply in small supermarkets there. Camping should be possible at the beach. Ferry 2x/d.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-29 to 2024-Mar-31 / 2 days / SOBO / B RR D / Matthias de Austria'''

Short and easy section. Some nice lakes and hiking through dense valdivian rain forest. No tabanos nor mosquitos, snowfields or wet feet fords. Parts might be muddy after heavy rainfall. Limited water beside lakes. No water at water? 20.3/942 no gate at 17.4/985

Gate 12.0/801: Entry fee 3k. Toilet there, waste bin and some benches with volcano view. Possible camp at -39.777226,-71.870598 close to laguna Ancacoihue/Corazon, which has quite sediment rich water.

Camped inside the hut at -39.797914,-71.848616 due to rainy forecast. No direct access to the lake there, but a 5min walk south at lake, no camp 18.2/978. Don't know why no camp here, I think there is plenty of space and no forbidden sign around. Possible to swim but first 2m grown shore, then suddenly very deep. Refuge 18.2/978 burned down.

First water from stream at -39.824602,-71.851464, there is also a bridge at -39.824787,-71.851347
Don't miss junction at -39.826732,-71.848505, you have to turn right to the bad road otherwise you will walk to laguna chan chan.

I put a log on ford 31.0/610 for dry feet crossing. Plenty of campsides around, fireplaces, a table...lake is the best for swimming, easy access, clean almost warm water end of March.

Next to water 34.0/646 a camp should be possible.

Shortly before Puerto Fuy don't follow the road, it leads to a locked gated at -39.870979,-71.889116. Or do so, then just walk a minute along the fence direction to the lake until there is a easy to walk through whole in the fence.

* '''2024-03-06 // 1 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + variant B // Quentin Clavel'''

From Puerto Fuy, it's a smooth hike until liquine, where the trail is easy to follow.

At PK 13,7 you'll reach Laguna ancacoihue, that has been transformed into a tiny and cute touristic hike, because of the heart formed by this Laguna. So you'll probably see some people walking threw this "Laguna Corrazon" to/from the end of the gravel road PK 12.
During these 2 kilometers, the trail is very well marked and indicated, there's even ramps to helps you to go up/down. An amazing Mirador has been setup as well with sick view on the volcanoes Villarica end Lanin. Nice place indeed !

As I came nobo, I haven't had to pay anything, but probably going SOBO, you'll pass the entrance of this hike first (at the end of the gravel road) and have to pay to access here.

Then after 10 kilometers on a gravel road, you'll reach the asphalt and arrive in liquine.
I passed threw the "center" where there's at least one hospedaje, few minimarkets, place to eat and few thermals.

After a necessary stop at the panadería/café for some dulces and fresh fruits juice (Variant B, passing threw the city) I continued my way to the next section.

* '''2024-Jan-20 to 2024-Jan-21 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / {17H-A} - {17H-B} - RR - {17H-D} - RR / Lilian'''

{17H-A} km0 : Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Km1.55 : two tiny shops here. (-39.70430, -71.86316)

Then i joined RR.

RR km0.95 : tiny shop. (-39.71282, -71.85403)

Km1.95 : tiny shop. (-39.72135, -71.85373)

Then i take {17H-B} keep going on the main road.

{17H-B} km0.55 : two small shop and one tiny shop just beside the "Liquiñe" waypoint. Lot of food resupply options, also some restaurants nearby.

Km1.3 : junction of RR and {17H-B}, a tiny shop here(-39.74016, -71.85511), if you want to cross Río Liquiñe to hot spring, it is the correct place. Ask the staff in shop, and they'll find somebody to row the boat for you.

RR ferry[5.7/237] : if noone here, ask at the tiny shop beside the road. As they said, looks like the earliest time for rowing boat is 9:30am, until maybe 8pm? Because i crossed here at 8pm. I'm not sure how much for the boat, maybe 500 CLP, but i paid 1000 CLP because I arrived here too late, and the guy need to go to some place else for finding the key to unlock the boat for me.

Walking on a clear path to Termas Punulaf. The price for camping in 2024 is 20,000 CLP. The hot spring looks like a swimming pool, that of course hot spring water, with perfect temperature. About the camping, picnic table, light, a line for hanging clothes, sandy spot, toilet and covered by a shelter.

Soaking the hot spring in early morning, sit beside the inlet for relaxing, it makes a good start of a new day!

It is the HIGHLIGHT of GPT16's ending or start of GPT17, don't miss it!

Km6.3 : tiny shop(-39.74271, -71.85464).

Lucky me, get two rides from X,shop[7.1/308] to gate[12.0/801] directly!

Km10.95 : bus stop, maybe bus comes to here?

Gate[12.0/801] : talk with a young guy at here, register some basic information but no fee need to pay, he also fill up my water bottle, thank you to him!

From here to km13.4(Laguna Ancacoihue), steep climb up but very easy to follow, just follow some red sticks to go, lot of benches for rest, handrail if you need and some nice viewpoint platforms. The viewpoint at (-39.77073, -71.86505), beautiful platform with Chile flag, background are Volcán Villarrica, Lanín and the valley of Liquiñe, such a amazing picture!

When you arrive Laguna Ancacoihue maybe a little confused where is the trail to go. Trail is under blowdowns now for a few meters. Walk a little close to the lake(no need wet feet) and go around the fence that covered by blowdowns, a nice trail(road) is beside the fence.

After you follow the road walking about 5-10 min, you'll find some Red Bird sign(Huglo Huglo) and white red print at tree. They'll leads you to the Lago Quilmo(km17.4), follow them! If you see a white red print "X", it means "this is a wrong way".

Km13.7 : camping spot with fire ring, log sests, benches, picnic table. Still some more flat spots in 100m south.

Km15.6 : junction of RR and {17H-C}, a white red print "X" and lot sticks are put on the way to north.

Km15.8 : junction of RR and {17H-D}, RR is blocked by many huge blowdowns, Red Bird and white red print is at {17H-D}, also the road looks clear, so go for it.

{17H-D} km0.1 : sky blue ribbon start, it'll leads you the way too.

Km1.45 : Junction. Red Bird and white red print at left side go around the lake at east side, sky blue ribbon at right follow RR at west side. Go for RR.

Rejoin RR, and there are some blowdowns on RR at here too, i think {17H-D} is replaced RR completely.

Gate RR[17.4/995] : no gate.

Km18.05 : an empty hut(-39.79772, -71.84869) without door and windows, wooden floor is in good condition and clean. Looks like can used for staying away from bad weather.

Refuge[18.2/978] : The cabin? Hut? Is already burnt down. Just leave a burn out area and and an empty small hut, but lot of trash and dirty inside. The hut at previous is much better.

Lake,no camp[18.2/978] : at least five fire pit here...in a very small area. Why don't people just use other's old pit? Burning another green area is fun?

The water condition at here is better than Laguna Ancacoihue.

Km18.45 : four way junction, met Red Bird and white red print agian, but we still follow the sky blue ribbon.

X[18.9/1016] : junction to Laguna Chan Chan, Red Bird and white red print on the way to Laguna Chan Chan, follow sky blue ribbon and turn right here.

X[19.9/927] : sky blue ribbon go right. New colour, orange ribbon go left for RR. No more sky blue ribbon on your hike.

Water?[20.3/942] : no water here.

Ford[21.9/994] : beautiful water! A bridge here now. Crystal clear swimming pool at just downstream, nice spot for hot day. Some huge blowdowns help you go down to the pool.

Km23.15 : Red Bird again, follow it and orange ribbon all the way to Pozo de Oro.

Bridge,camp[25.0/1212] : bridge for cars already broken, just left a exciting log here. Better turn right go down for board bridge crossing. I didn't see any flat or camping spot. Water flowing slowly.

Km25.9 : views of Volcán Mocho (very little).

Km26 : road turns to a single track trail gradually.

Bridge,camp[27.5/1026] : bridge for cars already broken too. Cross by a log bridge now. Water flowing good and slowly. Grassland can fit 1-2 tents before go down for the crossing.

After some forest tunnel, you'll arrive Pozo de Oro, camping spot can fit many tents covered by tall trees, with fire ring, benches and picnic table. Also it is close to the lake.

Ford[31.0/610] : dry feet crossing, another crossing after here 100m, above ankle, or you can log crossing at 30m downstream.

Lake,camp[31.1/672] : sandy spot can fit 1 tent under a tree with lake views, i met some friendly locals driving their boat to here when i camped at weekends. Sleep with the peacey lake wave is great!

Keep follow Red Bird and orange ribbon for a little more.

Km31.4 : three way junction, DON'T follow orange ribbon climb up at right side, going straight on left side.

Km31.5 : three way junction, RR is turn left going down, OSM have a trail going right climb up for short cut. RR is in better condition, but OSM one is also good condition and much shorter. It'll connect RR at km31.75. And Red Bird start here.

Km31.75 : four way junction, if you follow OSM trail, turn right and climb up. If you follow RR, go straight and climb up.

After about 300m, Red Bird and white red print again! You can follow them, but they are not so frequently like before, also will disappear after a while.

Water[34.0/646] : grassland can fit 1-3 tents before the beautiful water, it is flowing low but clear and taste good. After here, trail becomes a dirt road.

Km34.3 : The wooden platform that Coline & Hermann slept still in progress about 70%, have windows and door, already locked up.

Km34.5 : huge flat area beside the beach under some trees, (car) camping spot.

Bridge[34.9/630] : log bridge crossing, (car) camping spot about 50m before it.

Km35.0 - km35.2: Camping Gratis, huge beautiful grassland (car) camping spot, i saw about 20 cars and many tents at Sunday morning. Spot covered by trees is loved by cars, hiker better camping at km35.2, no trees and car campers don't like it.

Km35.3 : some more (car) camping spot here, close to beach.

About the ferry and time schedule in 2024,

Tourist information center (-39.87183, -71.88962), you can buy the ferry tickets to Puerto Pirehueico at here, 1150 CLP one way. They also help me charging the power bank, super thank you to them!

Ferry from Puerto Fuy to Puerto Pirehueico:
Monday(07:00,13:30,18:00), Tuesday to Thursday(09:00,13:30,18:00), Friday(07:00,12:30,17:00), Saturday and Sunday(08:00,12:30,17:00)

Ferry from Puerto Pirehueico to Puerto Fuy:
Monday(09:00,16:00,20:30), Tuesday to Thursday(11:30,16:00,20:30), Friday(09:00,15:00,19:30), Saturday and Sunday(10:30,15:00,19:30)

Resupply in Puerto Fuy,

(-39.87320, -71.89134), (-39.87307, -71.89179), (-39.87373, -71.89390), (-39.87373, -71.89551), (-39.87375, -71.89775) : five tiny shops, combine together it is enough to resupply.

It is a tourist town, so lot of accommodation here, cabins or campground. Also some nice restaurants too.

When you are waiting the ferry, you can go for a boat tour, kayak trip, or take a nap on the beach under a big tree(-39.87178, -71.88877) like me.

* '''2024-Jan-13 to 2024-Jan-14 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : at km 31,1 really nice camp on the lac with a table
- Weather : Sunny and cloudy
- Resupply : we had ressuply in conaripe, also possible in Linquine
- Entry fee : at km 12 we had to pay 3000 pesos to use the track to the Laguna del Corazon
Easy section

* '''2024-05-01 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from Liquine Alto / Jens '''

Easy walk on forest road and single trail for the last 20km. I was a bit confused by the different trails. The right one was not always the most beaten one.
The ferry schedule at El fuy has changed. It is now 8 am. Timetable in the article of section 18.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-jan-27 to 2023-jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RH + Laguna Chan Chan / Coline & Hermann'''

After sleeping on a wooden platform nearby at work-in-progress house at some 1km after the gratis camping of Puerto Fuy (nice view on the lake, the city and the volcano Mocho Choshuenco), we walked northbound on the regular route of the GPT17.

It is also still possible to camp on a tiny beach which the trail reaches (Camp {18-F} [1.2/672]). From there, it took us time to find the trail, because it actually required to... walk on a tweenty meters long fallen tree !

It seems possible to avoid this, by following the path marked with red bird signs.

During the sloapse after, the road turns into a 4x4 road, where you may meet some cyclists going southbound – fast as arrows !

We arrived at the crossroad (the one either following the trail or going to the lake Chan-Chan) at the end of the day, after 1000m up in altitud, and found a place to sleep on the way up, inbeetween two rivers.

The next day, we stopped several hours at the beautiful volcano lake, where one's can make fire nearby the wooden tables. The clear water is not deep, which makes it perfect for sitting and refershing – surrounded by the mountains.

We went back on the GPT, and noticed that the refuge at the arrival to the lake Quilmo has burned.

It is less attractive to swim there because of the vegetation. It is even more the case for the lake which takes place north-east of the optional road of the GPT (OH-TL-V {17H-D} [0.0+1.5]). However, it was nice to see so many lakes during this section !

Actually, the last one – the laguna Anacoihue – was the cutest one. As you see on the map, it's in shape of a heart ! There is a camping place on the west side, where you can make fire and leave your stuff to walk to the "mirador" at the inner point of the heart (at the sunset, for example).

The next day, we walked the way down to Liquiñe in the morning. There are wooden sculptures, benches and games for (little and grown-up) kids, until one's reaches the plains. From there, we could see the volcano Villarica, which was smoking (so maybe avoid to go to the glacier Pichillancahue or even at the summit of the volczno, if you plan doing the GPT16-04 after... Or at least, have a look on RED).

We could easily resupply at Liquiñe and even found bottles of gas (Pro-Gas) in the "fereteria" some 200m down the main road (Ruta 201 CH), after it crosses the road leading to the Termas Trafipan, in front of a white building.

The hot springs marked on the map are now "infrastructured" (so to say), which means they are not for free anymore, but also that you can charge your phone (for free if asking) and/or spend the night (for 15 to 25mil pesos / person / night) and enjoy the swimming pools.

In fact, we were told (after) that there is a natural hot spring only known by inhabitants.

* '''2023-Jan-31 to 2023-Feb-01 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 17h-C / Maks & Gabi '''

Nice and easy trail even though the ascent on the beginning which follows dirty road with a lot of cars.
We took OH 17h-C which is not worth it, there is a new gate on the way, and when we tried to go through the forest there were lots of fences.
Than as written below the trail is marked and well maintained. We were doing RR, and it wasn't owergrown anywhere ( there is only one place somewhere around km 32 of RR when it's more worth to follow red bird sign than GPS navi, they are connecting once again after 100m)
We were sleeping at Camping gratis in Puerto Fuy, it was ok, but there is a lot of homeless dogs and it's quite a lot of people and noise during the night. Puerto Fuy is a quite big and there are many buses (almost every hour ) to Panguipulli.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Laguna Chan Chan / Will '''

Amazing section, don't skip it! Just make sure to take the openstreetmap route by Laguna Chan Chan instead of the main route.

I camped at the Termas de Punulaf after arriving via section 12. 15000 pesos, somewhat quiet, with some swimming pool style hot springs. Even a little restaurant. In the morning I walked along the field down to the river, where a kid rowed me across into town (500 pesos). Lots of shops for resupply.

The road walk up to the Laguna Corazon (aka Ankacoihue) trailhead would have been rough, thankfully I was blessed with a ride most of the way up. At the trailhead you'll find a nice lodge/cafe where I had to register and pay 2500 to hike to the lake. It's a cute trail, complete with benches and art and motivational signs. Great views of the valley.

After Laguna Corazon you'll end up on the Huilo Huilo trail, where you can follow the red bird trail markers all the way to Puerto Fuy along well maintained trail and dirt roads. Though the park's route seems to diverge from the main route twice, following variant D and the trail to Laguna Chan Chan.

Variant D looked to be a well maintained (slightly bland) road, vs the main route which is an old road in the process of being reclaimed by the forest. Currently the main route's still not bad walking.

The trail approaching Laguna Chan Chan from the north was a highlight: thin, slower, steeper, more intimate. It eventually merges onto a dirt road heading down from the lake and west. The main route here was a plain gravel road (I went the wrong way along it for a few km).

There's well maintained campsites with picnic tables and everything at Laguna Corazon/Ankacoihue, Laguna Chan Chan, and at Pozo de Oro near the end.

The ferry at Puerto Fuy was sold out all day by the time I got there around noon.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Lago Chanchan / Matthieu '''

Another part of the Huilo Huilo parc, no entry fees in this sens. Nice for the forest walkers the like flowers and calm.
Tracks well maintained in the form of 4x4 roads, easy to follow (Little red plastic birds sticked on the trees).
I agree with Martina and Ivo on the attractivity of this section. There are a few lakes to see on the way, if you get off the RR, and it is worth the effort. The savage beach just a few kilometers after Puerto Fuy is a paradise to camp.
Liquiñe is a nice place to rest, with camping and thermal water. Lots of shops.

- Lago Chanchan :

Talking to chilean hikers there, the main attraction seems to be the Lago Chanchan, which is actually a lake in a volcano crater, with a little beach, and a wonderful place to camp. I took the detour to go.
From the waypoint "Refugio?" (which is actually the house of Juan, whose mission is just to take the names of the people going south, just for safety if they get lost. No fees, no stress. Juan is really nice and I could enjoy a nice coffee and discussion with him.), I came back going southbound to the Div 108. Then you take the little forest trail, that goes up gor 2-3 hours until the lake Chanchan. It is a little technical trail cutted in the bamboos, but in this sense easy to follow, following the little red birds. Just before the lake there is a Div where you arrive to a 4x4 trail. One road goes north to the lake, and the other one goes south to the "pozo del Oro", and I assume that this trail join the RR between "Bridge, camp2" and "DIV 110" I didnt explore it the next day thow, going back on my tracks by the little bamboo trail because I was initially going northbound. SO there is a path exploitable from the south part of the section, leaving the RR on a minor road, going to the lake Chanchan, and then going back to RR taking this little trail to the Div 108, making your experience really more attractive.

* '''2020-Feb-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Here is our advertisement for this beautiful section: From Liquiñe alto to the beginning of the forest: great view to the volcanoes Villarica and Lanín. Nice trail to the enchanted Laguna Ankacoigüe. Then beginning of the Reserva Biológica Huilo-Huilo Sector Norte: stunningly huge trees and a sudden change of landscape, entering Valdivian rainforest for the first time. Only a short part of minor road between waypoint "lake, no camp" and the highest point of the section. The whole descent to Puerto Fuy is a attractive trail through pretty rainforest with views to the Volcán Choshuenco. 4 km before the village you find this pristine hidden lonely beach, perfect for a last rest before you arrive at busy touristy Puerto Fuy.

Our rating: 3

Don't skip ;-)

* '''2020-Feb-08 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

I met Martina & Ivo on the route & agree with their above comments. This section was an unexpected highlight & the campsite on the lake was the best. When you reach the lake you cross a river then arrive at the campsite which you will probably have to yourself. Avoid the campsites near Puerto Fuy as there are lots of car campers there.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

Liquine: Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at 39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

In Liquine there are a few small shops. There are also some open air markets, you can get breakfast & lunch there. They open around 10:30 AM. 2 restaurants in Liquine but neither of them was open when I was there (Feb 2020)

There are a few places advertising cabins on the road in to Liquine & as you leave Liquine southbound there are two cheap hotels.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT17H - Liquiñe]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228012.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H - Liquiñe]]
[[File:GP_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228017.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228020.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228022.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228023.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228025.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228034.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228011.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228013.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228015.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228016.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT16 (Volcan Quetrupillan)

2026-03-30T21:13:58Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==
'''GPT 16 | 1/6-1/8| 3 day | O4 (Villarrica Traverse), O2, RR | Graham + Felix?!?'''

Absolute beauty section.
Uber to Pucon Ski Center, had to walk final kilometer. Couldn’t register cause too early, but workers at ski station helped me contact Park Ranger.
Midst and Fog to start the day. Trail marker?… I barely know her!
At around 5pm when I was starting to hit a block, I ran into Felix! First GPT hiker on the trail and I was estatic. We pushed the final 8km to Chinay together.
Despite heading different directions on the GPT, and having different section end goals, we were both headed to Laguna Azul. Saw lots of people on the trail, definitely a new feeling.
There is a really nice waterfall just before the final climb towards to Laguna Azul, highly recommend.
Laguna Azul—> Liquiñe was nice and calm. Though quite muddy. Also, just before gate on the left is one of the biggest trees I’ve ever seen.
Camping at Termas in town, 20k with great wifi, bathrooms, and Termas.
This section is quite nice.

'''2026-Feb-12 to 2026-Feb-15 / 3.5 days / Hiking / EABO / OH-4, OH-2, RR, Variant A, OH-1 / Emily'''

Beautiful section, easy and clear trail with frequent markers. I hiked with a friend, and while the section could easily be completed more quickly, we found it well worthwhile to take extra time to enjoy the vistas and forest. Recent trip reports reflect current conditions, not much to add.

At Border/Pass {16-01} [40.4/1788] I ascended the hill along the border. Highly recommend - an easy climb for great 270 views of the five volcanoes.

Camps
Night 1: -39.458210, -71.978402. Highly recommend, incredible sunset. Space for 1 tent in trees, with another spot around the corner (with small rock wall) and more potential spots 20m before to the left in a small depression. Estero Nilfe was near dry and opaque, however there was a clear flowing stream shortly before at -39.45496, -71.98198.

Night 2: -39.455667, -71.822334. Along a disused pull-out road, plenty of space and well-protected, next to small river. We checked out Chinay but as per previous reports, it appears semi-abandoned and had an odd vibe. If looking to camp here, follow the road along SOBO after the OSM marker, and you’ll come to a bridge and road. The following morning we passed a better camp spot with picnic table just after the CONAF office {16-04} [31.9/996].

Night 3: Lake, Camp [40.2/1597]. Several spots among the trees. Three other hikers camping here. Some trash around unfortunately.

* ''' GPT16 | 2026-02-05 to 2026-02-08 I 3 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: Option 4 (Villarrica Traverse) - Option 2 - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: I took an Uber to the Ski Center parking area (8.400 CLP). I forgot to ask the driver to stop at CONAF, but I had already bought the entrance ticket for Parque Nacional Villarrica Norte online the day before (11.000 CLP) - in the end it was never checked. I started hiking at about 10:00. Easy trail with very good views.
I camped at Estero Aihue, nice spot with clear water: -39.476814, -71.885906

Day 2: Easy trails, water available along the route. I registered at "Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay)". They did not ask for my entrance ticket. Camped near the waterfall: -39.511992, -71.750355

Day 3: I woke up at 03:30 due to strong wind. I had to secure my tent. The wind continued until morning. The campsite was actually very nice, but not recommended in windy conditions.
I planned to climb Volcán Quetrupillán, but the forecast announced heavy rain soon and I wanted to reach Puerto Fuy, so I skipped the ascent. I reached Laguna Azul before noon. No other people and no trash. I took a swim break. The rest of the trail was straightforward and I saw many interesting birds.
Planned campsite - Camp {16} [62.0/486] - appears to be private property. There is a fence and a locked gate, so I continued. I camped hete: -39.684141, -71.856855 . It's not a perfect spot, but at least hidden, near the MR next to a stream.

Day 4: In the morning my tent was completely wet from condensation. I was super lucky then, I only walked a few minutes , then a car passed and I could hitchhike all the way to Liquiñe. I had breakfast there and continued with Section 17.

Attractiveness: 5/5, Difficulty: 2/5

*'''2026-1-29 to 2024-2-1/ 4 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/opt 4, 2, RR, A, 1/Tomas Martinec'''

A beautiful section that is not too difficult and well marked. I really enjoyed the changing volcanic and forest landscapes.

Day 1
I tried to pre-arrange an Uber the night before, but the price was quite high (14,000 CLP). So I left it for the morning, and the price dropped to 9,500 CLP.
The Uber took me to the ski resort parking lot (39.3816607S, 71.9710225W). We couldn’t go any further because there was a barrier down. However, some cafeteria workers were driving by and kindly took me directly to the beginning of the Villarrica trail.
Be careful — after this water point (39.4358367S, 71.9954842W), the next reliable clean water source is about 15 km later at Estero Aihue.
Campspot: Pichillancahue (39.4685929S, 71.8576455W) – one spot on both sides of the bridge.

Day 2
I met a friendly CONAF worker in Chinay. He warned me that storms were expected from midday. About 100 m after Chinay, there is a nice campsite.
Next water point: 39.4716573S, 71.8263066W
The storm started at 11:00 and finished at 19:00. I stopped walking at 13:00 and waited at the edge of the forest. As I was wet and cold, I decided to set up my tent and stay there for the night.
Campspot: 39.4772464S, 71.8250824W (forest, no water — chosen because of the storm).

Day 3
Nice possible campsite: 39.5030120S, 71.7647070W
Other possible campspots without water:
39.4842887S, 71.8155280W (sheltered by stones)
39.4898674S, 71.7983452W
I had planned to climb Quetrupillán, but when I was passing by, the summit was covered in clouds. So I continued to Laguna Azul.
I had a beautiful night at Laguna Blanca — a really nice place to stay. The only downside was that the water was very still and didn’t look very clean.
Campspot: 39.5393546S, 71.6964447W

Day 4
A very nice walk. It was easy to see all the volcanoes. The trail ends in the forest. I think it’s big advantage to walk this final section with a lighter backpack.
Hitchhiking from Puesco to Currarehue.

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''2026-01-15 to 2026-01-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarica Traverse / OH 4, OH 3, OH 2, RR, OH A, OH 01 / Lucie Vrat'''<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>

This was my first GPT trail section, and it was absolutely amazing. I had perfect sunny weather, except for strong winds on the final hiking day.
As I went shortly after Greg, the information he provided still applies.

Day 1:
I took an Uber to the ski center for 8,200 CLP. The CONAF office was closed, so I did not register there (I had bought the national park entrance ticket online the day before). As there was no wind, I camped on the plateau about 1 km before Estero Aihue [24 km]— definitely a very nice place to spend the night and take water.

Day 2:
I descended to the CONAF station at Chinay and then continued up to Mirador Los Pinos. I slept cowboy-style at an unofficial spot shortly before Camp Estero Mocho [31.2 km] - another really nice place to stay with water.

Day 3:
I continued on OH-4 towards Laguna Azul and decided to climb the Quetrupillán crater since conditions were perfect OH 3 CC A. I left my large backpack hidden behind a rock. The upper section had some falling rocks but was not too complicated. The views from the top were stunning. On the way down, I crossed a few small snowfields, but they were easy to walk on. I finished the day camping at Laguna Azul, where I met two groups of Chileans who were also camping there.

Day 4:
I walked past Laguna Blanco and Laguna Las Avutardas all the way down to Puesco. The descent was quite tiring on the knees, and in the lower part of the trail I had to avoid or step over many fallen trees, but nothing major. Tabanos and cows were everywhere:) There is a cool café/restaurant right where the trail meets the road. I got a hitch to Curarrehue and then took a bus to Pucón for 2,000 CLP.

Overall: An easy and very attractive section A5/D3.

'''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-16/ 5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Options 4, 3, 2/ Greg Carter'''

Overall
The Villarrica Traverse is a wonderful hike with immersion in spectacular volcanic terrain, and beautiful Araucaria forests. Although the hike is well-known I saw only 2 other hikers.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1 (Monday)
I started from Villarrica early afternoon by taking an Uber to the parking for Centro de Ski, for CLP 10,000. On the way up there is a ranger station for registration. However it was closed so registration was not possible (the park is closed on Mondays). I prepaid an online entry pass (11,000 CLP) starting on Tuesday, but this was never checked.

The trailhead/ start of the GPT is approx 2km uphill on a dirt road from the car park. Despite the park being closed I was not stopped from starting the trail.

There are many streams with heavy volcanic sediment which would be difficult to filter. It’s best to bring sufficient water for at least the first 10km (from the carpark) to the spring/ water point described below (**which may not be reliable later in summer**).

I camped at a major trail intersection here (-39.43578, -71.99362), close to a signed water point (-39.43583, -71.99545) fed by a spring, connected by a hose to a tap and water trough.

Day 2
Hiked to camp at Pichillancahue campsite (-39.46838, -71.85740). Note there is a no camping sign. Whilst there is a river here the water has volcanic sediment which I filtered after straining through a fine cloth.

Along the way there is a small clear lake and a good camping site at -39.44683, -71.98701.

Further along the only other good source of clean water is the Estero Aihue at -39.47765, -71.88646. I highly recommend you fill up here. This is also a good camping spot.

Day 3
Hiked to camp 3 (-39.51371, -71.75336) at the intersection with Option 3, where there is a good clear stream. There is also a fairly big waterfall nearby, and possibly a flat area for camping above it, which I saw from above but did not investigate.

Early in the day the rangers at Chinay {16-04} [31.9/996] required registration but did not check my pass. Shortly after the ranger station, where the trail turns to the right, there is a good stream to fill up. The trail then climbs steadily through Araucaria forest to reveal increasingly better views of Volcán Villarrica. On the way up there is a good flowing spring (signed, 20m downhill from the trail) at -39.47179, -71.82628.

Above the treeline there is an easy path to a scenic pass, followed by a spectacular ridge walk, with views of Volcáns Villarrica, Quetrupillan and Lanín.

Day 4
Hiked Option 3 to the N/S intersection, left my main pack and climbed Volcán Quetrupillan. This was a little challenging, as it required skirting several snow fields on the GPT route. However micro-spikes were not necessary. Some careful scrambling is required (due to loose rock and scree) to gain/ descend the summit ridge, and to climb/ descend the summit itself. There were amazing views from the top, including Laguna Azul, and Volcáns Villarrica and Lanín.

Afterwards I intended to continue east to connect with Option 1 (Rio Trancura), but I accidentally fell over when I wasn’t concentrating and broke a pole soon after setting off (insert expletive!). I repaired the pole but decided it was best to return to Pucón (to buy new poles) by the easiest route, which was Options 3 and 2. That night I camped at -39.52414, -71.80216, on a disused side road, uphill from a bridge with a good flowing stream.

Day 5
I hiked out on Option 2, which is an easy dirt track. At -39.51765 -71.83974 there is a big double gate system (?!) just before a bridge over a running stream. I found a gap where there is a missing fence post on the right hand side (facing west), which I squeezed my pack and myself through. It would be very difficult to climb over the second gate.

I then hiked to the road at Termas El Rincón, where I hitched almost immediately to Coñaripe. Then I caught 2 local buses, first to Villarrica, then to Pucón, (from memory) for CLP 2,300 and CLP 1,500, respectively.

I understand that the Termas El Rincon has wifi if you need it.

''' GPT16/ 2025-12-31 to 2026-1-1/2 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert'''

Stayed in Currarehue for two nights in Maxmafram cabañas for 40000 pesos for night. Bought gas in ferretería close to the bridge. First night we slept next to Laguna Blanca. No problems all the way.

*''' 2025.23.12 to 2025.25.12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 4 (Villarica Traverse) + Opt. 2 + RR / Kris and Stiina, Alex and Tim, Bailey'''

Day 1 - Morning transfer from Pucón to Ski center parking lot with Hans.
His site: travelaid.cl and phone nr. +56 9 7744 6664
Passing the ranger station 8am there was nobody there to check us in, but Hans managed to do it on his way back.
We were 5 GPT hikers together which is quite unusual for the GPT but a nice change once in a while to have it a bit more social on this otherwise very solitary trail.

We drove through the cloud and could appreciate the Volcán Villarrica and some sunshine as we set off. But as the day progressed it got more overcast and cold once again, especially in the windier places.
Does it seem to be a bit more rainy and cold summer this year?
Due to ample amounts of rain the days prior, water was not an issue.
A well established straightforward trail all the way.
We camped here: -39.46092, -71.83637 about 2km before Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay).

Day 2 - Despite there being no rain in the forecast the day was rainy, cold and miserable at times.
We stopped by the park ranger in the morning for a toilet break. He asked if we are all good and we had to write down our names.
Most of the day we spent in a cloud without any views. The ridge before the plateau was pretty cold with the rain on the open bits, but luckily there were also plenty of bushes for wind shelter along it.
Once we got to the plateau of Volcán Quatrupillán and joined the Option 2 the weather improved a bit but we were still in a cloud until the Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924].
After that the cloud lifted a bit and the views improved.
As we got to our planned camp by Laguna Azul the weather kept improving and later in the afternoon even the sun came out so we could dry all of our wet stuff. The camp was nice and sheltered from the wind. Some trash here and there especially where everyone went for the toilet but not too bad. Water in the lake was clear and not too cold.

Day 3 - The sun was finally back and it was warm once again. Alex an his son Tim departed in a different direction. Bailey took off while me and Stiina were still faffing around getting ready and we only saw him again in the evening when we camped together again.
Don’t expect any road to appear here: Road End {16} [44.6/1288]. It does start but later and for us was it was very muddy due to all the recent rain.
No bridge here: Settlement, Bridge {16} [58.5/440] (Huichahue), it seems to have collapsed. There is a log across that might be tricky when wet, but we managed fine otherwise ford seemed easy.
We got a hitch to Liquine from around: Camp {16} [62.0/486] which pretty much seemed where the road got really dull and boring. We drove along the road - variant B
There is a gate here: -39.69204, -71.85995 but Bailey said he could open it and walked through without any issues.
Since it was 25th of December we were lucky that a few shops were still open, but unfortunately everything else was closed, no restaurants or cafes for us.
After some refreshments we continued on to section 17…

(Continued in section 17)

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-06 to 2025-12-12 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO / OH4 (extra stop Pucon) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle & Sander'''
As our first hike in Chile we incredibly enjoyed the vulcanic landscape and the Auracaria/Nothofagus forests. Because of bad weather, a problem with our gps and food we made an extra stop in between. All trails very clear, just some remarks that might be of use to others:
+ We camped our second night next to the Rio Llancahue (OH4) which was grey from erosion of vulcanic rocks but was clear in the morning and easily went through our water filter.
+ we walked down OH2 to Coñaripe, but the trail after Termas Geometricas has a big sign ‘forbidden entry’. Two men from the Termas told us it’s private property and didn’t let us go and we took the road back. It seems the development of more Termas and Cabañas has made it more difficult. So we changed plans, stayed on the mountain and are camping at El Ranchi de Palito, 20k two people, there’s no one else and it is pouring rain so he let us stay in some kind of common room with a fire place, electricity and WiFi. Very kind! Also serves food.
+ Many cool flowering plant species now up on the vulcanic plateau. Also, on the villarica traverse we met two people shooting drone footage for a new BBC documentary called Home and it is coming out in a few years. It’s about a top secret animal, but we’re guessing it starts with a P and ends with uma.

* '''2025-12-04 to 2025-12-09 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO (east, then south) / Villarica Traverse + RR / Michel & Lisa'''

Day 1

Had a late start since someone (not gonna tell you who xD) lost their spork and so we had to wait until the outdoor Stores in town opened at 10.
Paid the entry fee for Villarica sector norte in advance online (10200CLP pp). Took a taxi up to the Centro de ski, although our taxi driver was hesitant at first due to bad road conditions he eventually agreed to take us up for 18000CLP. The road was fine and there were no problems at all in his standard sedan with 700'000km on it. Stopped at the CONAF office en route (not the center de visitantes) and registered - pretty straight forward. Show your proof of payment, get a tag for onto your backpack (so guarda parques can see you've registered for the Villarica Traverse) and write down your name and contact info in the list.
At the centro de ski we had to walk the first ~1.5 km to the start of the trail (i.e. where the track file starts as well). From there it's pretty easy walking on a well maintained trail. Only got as far as lagunitas XYZ where we camped (-39.44708, -71.98718). Water is clear but lots of algae growth in the lower of the two.
There was no water whatsoever between the centro de ski and this place (-39.43584, -71.99550) that is shown as a source of water on the OSM map as well (the lack of water surprised us somewhat as we are early in the season and had expected meltwater to result in some water availability). However, if you read the last entry about the traverse, there can be more water.

Day 2

Had a slow morning and late start, enjoying the calm and quiet in the forest close to the beautiful laguito. Filtered some water from the lagunita and treated it with micropur tablets on top, just to be sure. Turned out to be fine that way.
Estero Ñilfe had really grey water, just like 6 years ago when I was last here. Back then we drank it and were okay but I was glad not having to drink it again. Would definitely avoid that if you can. Then it was really sunny and dry for a while. The next water we found was Estero Tralco which was almost equally grey and therefore not good for drinking, though probably also not deadly. Continued all the way to Estero Aihue where the water is crystal clear and really cold (7 °C). Found a not really level campspot closeby, if you search longer you might be able to find something better. The ground is mostly pretty soft so we put rocks on all tent pegs. Lots of fine dust that gets everywhere which was a bit annoying. But the views are stunning here so it's worth it!

Day 3

Woke up to an almost full moon just above Volcán Villarrica and a calm, cloudless sunrise. People in the valley must have missed it due to the cloud cover visible from up here. :P
Next water source was at Río Pichillancahue (Llancahue on my map [-39.46842, -71.85767]). Shortly after that the trail joins a dirt road. We checked out the Chinay (marked as China on my map, lol) Camping [-39.45935, -71.82974] that turned out to be an abandoned camping with huts and lots of defunct infrastructure. Weird. We continued to the guardaparque [km 31.9] where there was nobody. Continued along the road until the trail turns off again, walked it for about 5 minutes where we found a wonderful camp [-39.45839, -71.81611] just next to the river. Sun, shade, water, it has it all! B-) only the tábanos are a bit of a lastima.

Day 4

Started earlyish to do as much in the shade as possible, which turned out to be a good idea. Water at [-39.46171, -71.82039] where one could also camp (but I wouldn't recommend it, it's dark and completely forested) and at [-39.47165, -71.82632] where you should definitely fill up. Then nothing until the end of the forest at [-39.50218, -71.76623] where there's a small stream and a couple of camping possibilities with reasonably flat ground. We continued on until [-39.51272, -71.75385] where we camped on nice flat ground next to the trail. A pretty tough day with our heavy backpacks but the views up here are again amazing! The area here with a few meandering streams is really beautiful. The only downside today were the tábanos everywhere and the extreme heat.
We apologize for all the dead tábanos en route and confess we had a little competition going on. If you find a few dead ones on the ground, it'll be a spot where we had a break (of which there were plenty). Lisa won 47 to 36, if you were curious. xD
------
Well. It seems mother nature, karma or whoever was not happy with the trail of dead tabanos we left behind. At least if you believe in this kind of stuff. Just after sunset a group of 7-8 bulls showed up and mooed loudly, walked in our direction. They seemed to have lost a buddy of theirs and we were kind of on their trail. Or they were curious or both. Anyways, some of them came really close and they were absolutely massive, which both scared us, especially since they were very vocal as well. After a while they continued on over the hill and we thought they had left, but they came back after about 10 minutes and so we decided to pack our stuff together and left in a hurry, back over the creek and to a slightly less flat camp spot with no grass [-39.51135, -71.75112] where we thought they wouldn't follow us. At least that was true. But then a gust pulled out one of the tent pegs in the middle of the night and our air mattress had a puncture. So... Not a great night! >:~|

Day 5

We woke up to a somewhat cloudy sky and stronger winds. After packing up we hiked to Laguna Azul which is really pretty, especially seen from the pass above. Great spot for a break. The camp at the laguna is really a bit dirty (trash, pots and pans left there) and smelled of fish so we didn't stop for long. If you want to stop there, continue to the ford where there's nobody and it's not dirty/trashy at all. We continued, joining the RR of the GPT which first is a trail and later develops into an abandoned road. Many a fallen tree on the trail/road which have to be climbed or walked around. The trail/road is frequented by dirt bikes so there's always a pretty good trail. I'm not sure what Road end [44.6/1288] wants to indicate as the road only starts much further down, where the RR actually becomes MR, i.e. X [49.6/997]. There are lots and lots of really good camp spots along the MR, not just where it's indicated [52.2/794]. But they're all without water access. We decided to search for an option with water and finally found a place which had a really nice flat grassy spot: [-39.631233, -71.834371]. It looks like it's used as pasture for cows, but there were none present when we were there (yay, if you read about our experience the night before). You can walk down an old, unused road towards a broken bridge (about 500m, maybe 5-10 min) where there's access to the river. The river is rather difficult to access since its banks are steep (everywhere, not just at this spot). But at the bridge it's possible, if slightly complicated. If you don't feel comfortable climbing down over some fallen trees and rocks to the water, this might not be your spot. We quite liked it. The punctured mattress was fixed in little time, shining a headlamp through it from behind while checking the front really helps to find small punctures! There was a big thunderstorm at night which kept us awake again, at times it got pretty close (600m?) but mostly stayed up in the mountains.

Day 6

After another night of bad sleep thanks to the thunderstorm, we skipped breakfast in order to get going soon. Just before reaching the settlement [58.5/440] we had to cross a deep trench (about 2-3 m deep, 2-3 m wide) that cut through the road and there was only a wooden plank which was a bit scary to cross over. You might find a way around the trench though. The river after we had to ford, the bridge seems to be gone.
After the settlements came rather boring road walking and we were happy to be picked up by a local who drove us all the way to the road towards Liquiñe. We went to the shop across the road [66.4/237] which had a nice selection (even some veggies!) and stocked up for 17P.

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-04-22 to 2025-04-29/ 6 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse Route from Pucón to Carirriñe Bajo. Ben &Stephanie

Spectacular alpine hiking around Volcáns Villarrica and Quetrupillán, then descend through aracharia forest where pinions are harvested.

We had to cut this stage short due to slow progress hiking in recent snow down to 1000m and rerouted southbound on the RR when the next storm arrived at Lago Azul. Useful tip if you anticipate a lot of snow: bring ice spikes/ultralight crampons -- we purchased some at Volcanica in Pucon, a very comprehensive outdoor gear store. Also: the highest snow accumulation is on Volcan Villarica and stays longer on the south sides of all the slopes. Melting snow means water was always near.

*'''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-13 / 3.5 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse (OH 04 + OH 02 + RR + OH A + OH 01) / MiaimZelt'''

Summary: Very pleasant stage with nice trails, posing no real difficulties. Didn't met a lot of people.

Day 1: Took a Uber for 10k to the Centro de Ski. It was raining and it's necessary to walk the last 2km to the beginning of the starting point of the trail. Started on monday, although the NP Villarica us officially closed. Prepaid the fee online for tuesday.
Trail was very easy, but the first 3 hours were hard because of rain and the cold. Camping options for example here: -39.435913, -71.993726 and -39.447416, -71.987115 (sheltered). Camped here exposed but with brilliant views: -39.472071, -71.957839. Water was easy to find, but don't take it from Ñilfe - very dirty. The small streams were the best. Met only one guy on horseback.

Day 2: Sunny wether all day long. Again easy hiking, met a group on the way down. Water at Río Pichillancahue was clean. Needed to register at CONAF Sector Quetrupillán and showed my payment. Take water before ascending, the next sourse comes here: -39.471659, -71.826306. The next 3 hours i didn't see water before this point: -39.503012, -71.764707. Camped there at the last possibility with shelter from the wind before Laguna Azul.

Day 3: Sunny, but very windy. Great views at Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924]. Hiked CC until i could see the milky lagoon nearby. At Laguna Azul i met local people camping and fishing with campfire at this spot. He gave me Piñones but asked strange questions, prefered to carry on. Ford {16} [36.6/1652] was posible dry feet. Water was greyish, better take from the small stream directly after the small pass before Laguna Blanca. Laguna Blanca was incredible! Camped near Lake, Camp {16-01} [33.6/1456], but wasn't the best choice because of tons of condensation. It's better to camp in the forest.

Day 4: The next km had a lot of fallen trees - very often it's necessary to walk around or climb over them, but always doable. Came across some streams. Hiked on the trail until Sector Puesco Park Ranger {16-01} [22.8/731]. Here i had to sign again and waited to get a hitch. Lot's of cars, but it took some time until someone stopped.

*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 /4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH02 + OH04 (villarica Traverse) / Chloe and Mathieu

We took the bus from Valdivia to Coñaripe at 2:2PM and slept there at the Küñul Pukuñil campground, really nice owner and 8000p per person.

Day 1 : we hitchhiked up to "settlement, shop{16}[66.5/237] and started walking from there. Gravel road easy to walk. We pitched our tent at the camp without water 52.3 but there are many places all around to camp. Good water spot at 51.1.

Day 2 : we walked up to Laguna Azul, easy trail in the bamboo and Araucarias forest. Then we took option 2, still some snow at the pass but easy to cross. We camped at S 39° 30.550', W 071° 45.530'. Lovely spot with water.

Day 3: the route up to the park ranger 31.9 is easy but no water in between. We refill there. Then we walked on the option 04 where there are no much water. Water from Rio Llancahue is dirty. The next clean water was at Estero Aihue (S 39° 28.618', W 071° 53.171') where we camped.

Day 4 : we continued until Villarica ski station. No clean water all along, hopefully we had enough water for the whole day. No public transportation at the station so we hitchhiked up to Pucon.

* '''2025-02-13 to 2025-02-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Vulcan Villarica+OH4+OH2+RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: After finishing stage 15, I took a micro from Curarreuhe to Pucón. I have found a good hostel, Raiz, for 15000 clp in a room of 6 persons, but you need to pay cash to avoid IVA. In Pucón, I bought shoes, but only for men. For women, there is no big choice. It is a very touristic place. I have decided to make a volcán Villa Rica with an agency. When I was buying shoes, a woman said to me that she was trying alone (she is from Pucón) and paid "multa". I paid 150.000 clp. The price includes full equipment (shoes, icepeak, crampones, jacket, trousers, gaiters, gloves, casque, backpack, mask, parque fee, and transport and equipment for sliding down it). They took my backpack, so after that, I could start Travesía Villarica from the Ski station in Pucón. Important: the ranger said to me that Puesco is closed because of a fire. I took water from "banos" near the Ski station and made camp at km 1 of OH4.

Day 2:
Continued Travesía, very spectacular views of volcanoes and valleys. I did not have problems with water, but very often it was dirty. In the forest trail, it was clear.
Water:
6.5 km Zanjón Vaipoi - dirty
12 km Estero - dirty
16 km clean water
Camp at km 26 - Río Pichillanchahue. Place for one tent.

Day 3:
I met two people from Czechia. They went from Nobo. The The Ranger had not allowed them to go to Laguna Azul. Then I met a family from Chile who were doing Travesía from Puesco. They bought tickets before closing Puesco, so they were allowed to start from there. The The Ranger was very polite. I was not registered officially on the trail. But when I was doing Volcan Villarica with an agency ranger who was there, he took my datos and made me a photo, so the ranger at point 31.9 km knew me. Of course, it is not standard:) After 31.9 km, the trail was going up significantly. In the forest, the trail was clear. I took water at km 36.5, then till km 42, there was no water. After the trail was following a ridge with views and then again, no views. I camped at km 43 in the place where there is a table "Mirador of Quetropillán". Water was near. It was an amazing place. There was no wind but very cold.

Day 4:
On the km of 44.5 of option OH4, I joined option OH2. In the morning, at the height of 1800 m n.p.m. small streams were frozen. After passing there, there were some patches of snow very easy to pass. Laguna Azul espectacular, but I have met people on motocross there. Here I joined variant RR (km 40.2). Ford near Laguna was very easy to cross. In the forest trail, it was clear, sometimes I needed to go around fallen trees. At km 59.9, near a destroyed bridge, there was something like a bridge, but I crossed the river a few meters after, in the deepest place, the water level was to the knee of my height ( 1.64).
Then till the village Reyehueico, there was no place for a tent. In the shop of the village, there were a lot of things to buy. I asked the owner to put my tent in his garden. He agreed. He gave me a table and I had water. He allowed me also to take my dog, who followed me. The dog was sleeping in my tent.

* '''2025-02-07 to 2025-02-11 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH 04 (Villarica Traverse), OH 03 (Volcán Quetrupillán), OH 02, RR / Peggy

I started from Molco, where I had spent the night, following a trail along the Río Correntoso (note: this river is dry). It took me about 3-4 hours to reach the ski station.

Villarica Traverse

I really enjoyed this traverse. The first part alternates between lava fields and forests, offering beautiful views of Villarica. Be mindful of water sources—rivers in the first kilometers are dry. The first water source I found was at -39.42548, -71.98709, but the water was whitish and carried volcanic sediments. A better water source was available from a faucet at km 36.3.

There's a beautiful forest section before reaching the park ranger station (31.9/996). Afterward, the trail climbs through a stunning forest of araucarias and other trees I couldn't identify. There are two notable water sources:

Km 24.1, which appears on maps (Locus and others).

-39.288052, -071.492708, where a small spring is located. This spot is also a great place to camp if there's no wind, with a breathtaking view of Villarica. This water source isn't marked on maps but was indicated by the park ranger.

Volcán Quetrupillán

The OH 03 connecting to the volcano is marked as CC but is quite manageable. There was still a lot of snow on the ascent, making it pleasant and easier to climb. The summit offers incredible views of the crater and surrounding volcanoes (Villarica, Lanín, Mocho, and Choshuenco).

There are two routes to the top. I first followed the GPT route to the crater, but when I tried to climb higher, I stopped due to a steep, slippery section that made me uncomfortable. On the way down, I decided to try the other route (further left) and managed to reach the highest point, crossing snowfields and finishing with a steep, rocky slope.

I camped by a beautiful green lake on my way down toward Laguna Azul, but I barely slept because of the strong wind. Thankfully, my tent held up!

The next day was spectacular—I was completely alone. Even at Laguna Azul, where there's an excellent, wind-sheltered campsite, I saw no one. Laguna Blanca was absolutely stunning! A must-see!

Descent to Curarrehue

I followed the RR down to Curarrehue. I camped near the Estero Huililco on private property, being respectful of the place (as always, of course).

From -39.238782, -71.394307, there are several gates and enclosures to pass through, but the path remains accessible. A local man told me that the trail the track follows had been closed by "los indígenas", and he wasn’t sure if it was still passable. However, I had no issues. Just follow the GPS track carefully at intersections.

* '''2025-01-28 to 2025-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1, RR, Option 3 (Quetrupillan ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

We came by a bus Temuco 8am - Curarrehue ~11am. From there we easily hitch hiked to Puesco/Mirador (beginning of OH1 SOBO).
Day 1 afternoon: mirador to Laguna Arguntas. The path is generally very well marked. A couple of fallen trees on the path and we encountered several groups of cows. Almost not disturb by tabanos.
We stoped to camp on the west side of Laguna Arguntas where we camped. Tabanos were quite present until sunset. Better camp with water and view on Lanin 150m above.
We regularly found water al along option 1 until we reached the volcanic plateau, and last melted snow water at -39,56982 -71,682110
Day 2: Laguna Arguntas > RR to Laguna blanca and then Laguna Azul > Quetrupillan ascent where we camped at -39,49878 -71,72278 on the ridge (amazing sunset, stars and sunrise views, totally worth it if the weather is good).
Amazing and scenic views on the plateau, we highly recomand to hike up from the Laguna Azul at least until -39,53391 -71,73845.
End of Quetrupillan ascent following GPT track was easy given the afternoon melted snow. You can also pass by by the west of the summit and ascent by the more used NW path.
Day 3: Way down from Quetrupillan summit to the broken bridge at 58,6km following RR (very good camp site before the broken bridge).
Easy path, beautiful first part through araucaria forest, the rest through regular forest.
Day 4 morning: minor road during 10km (worth hitchhiking) until the crossing with 201.
We walked to Quilimo camping for the packrafting section 17P through rio Cua Cua.

* '''2025-01-22 to 2025-01-25 / 3 days / villaria traverse middle part hiking in-out / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)

We did a 3 day trek starting at fundo porvenir (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where we paid 15000CLP to leave our rental car with the very hospitable farmers (there is also a little campsite here with them). We did not buy a national park ticket and as expected we did not meet any ranger. We did only meet 4 small hiking groups during those 3 days.
We hiked up to the saddle between Villarica and Quetrupillan where we set up camp at (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where there is still melting water from snow fields on Quetrupillan. A lot of fallen trees in the hike up via Estero Mocho.
From there we hiked up and back to Laguna Las Avutardas. Still some snow fields to cross above 1700m.
We hiked down via the alternative exit from the summit route of Quetrupillan.

* '''2025-01-09 to 2025-01-11 / 2.5 days / NOBO / RR / Mara and Tobias

Day 1 - walked 7.3 km from the Settlement, Shop {16} [66.5/237] to Bridge {16} [58.6/440] where we camped. Easy roadwalking, 2 hours. Day 2 - walked 24 km to Laguna Azul without difficulties. The trail is in a good condition, since people with motorbikes cross the park illegally. There were 6 other persons on the camping. Very beautiful spot. Day 3 - 32 km to Catripulli. Last Kilometres we got a lift. I sank up to my knees in the mud at Laguna Blanca. Watch your steps! We count 8 people on motorcycles that day. There are several Conaf signs indicating that motorcycles are illegal in the national park. Anyway, it was a nice section with various vulcanic rock formations, stunning views and beautiful araucarian forests!

* ''' 2025-JAN-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 16-A > RR > 16-02 > 16-03 > 16-02 > 16-02A > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : oui beaucoup
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : gouffres sur le sentier

J'ai fait quelques achats a Curarrehue. La montée se fait bien même si certaines clôtures ne sont pas facile a passer. Il y a un ford au point (39.470744° S 71.631158° W). Il n'y a pas autant de point d'eau que d'habitude, et moi qui aime marcher sans eau, c'etait parfois limite. Il y a encore beaucoup de neige dès 1600m. Je campe au lac a 1830m et il est en grande partie glacé et recouvert de neige.
Volcan Quetrupillan facile car beaucoup de neige ce qui evite les pierriers, puis grande boucle dans la forêt. Il y a de l'eau mais l'accès est difficile. Quasiment tout le chemin est en bon état, même si des moto-cross et des quad sont passés et l'ont abimés. Il y a des gouffres sur le chemin. Au km 58,6 le pont est detruit. Un arbre couché par les locaux permet de passer.

'''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / Eastbound / OH04, OH02, RR, OH01 / Sean & Neele'''

TLDR - Had to pay entrance fee and was checked by a ranger in day 2, plenty of water at this time of year due to snow melt, still some snow patches but not a problem at all.

Got an uber to the ski resort. A ranger stopped our uber and made us pay 10k each entrance fee.

Camped at 22.1km

Park ranger 31.9km - no one here but met a ranger further up the climb

34.6km - met a ranger clearing the trail. He checked we'd paid entry.

36.3km - last water until 42.8km. Trail is a bit overgrown/lots of blow downs between these two.

Camped at 42.8km

Took option 2 to Laguna azul patches of snow around pass 2.5km but all manageable.

RR Ford 36.6km just a stream at this point dry feet crossing.

Took variant A - water on this section at the moment.

Option 01 - passes 40.4km and 39.1km little snow patches but never a problem.

Camped at the lake 33.6km

We got a hitch from CONAF Puesco to Curarrehue in about half an hour and took the bus from there to Pucon.

*'''2025-JAN-02 to 2025-JAN-04 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This tranquil section of the trail offers stunning highlights, including the plateau beneath Volcán Quetrupillán, featuring a two lakes and breathtaking views of Volcán Lanín.

Between kilometer 6 and the bridge at [14.3/500], there are several gates you’ll need to climb over. At the settlement near this bridge, locals kindly allowed us to refill our water from their tap. Note that at coordinates -39.4708371, -71.6312554, there is a ford that is not marked on the track files.

While ascending through the forest, we encountered many cyclists going down the trail on mountain bikes. Once above the tree line, the landscape changed dramatically, revealing the majestic Volcán Lanín. On the plateau, patches of snow still covered several hundred meters of the trail in some areas.

The first ford in the Los Ríos region [36.6/1652] can be crossed dry-footed by stepping on rocks. From the crystal-clear Laguna Azul, we descended again into the forest, largely dominated by araucaria trees.

A great camping spot can be found just past the gate at [51.8/805]. Note that the old bridge at [58.6/440] no longer exists. However, a temporary log bridge has been installed, allowing for a safe crossing of the river.

21-12-21- 24-12-24/ 4 days / WEBO / OH01, RR, OH03, OH04/ Volker

Day 0: I went for cherrypicking and skipped gpt13-15. Bus at Liucura (end of gpt12) to Victoria at 7 a.m., direct connection to Temuco and from there to Pucon. Pucon is very touristic, I didn‘t like it and continued to Currarehue - nice town, everything for resupply, I recommend Hostal Quechupehuen (25k with breakfast)

Day 1: Very good weather forecast for 2 days. So instead of the long RR I took OH01 from Puesco (few cars on the road this morning, a local offered to give me a ride for 10k, fair offer). He would have brought me to the point, where OH01 leaves the PR, but I got out at the entrance of the Nationl Park. I think it‘s fair to pay the entrance fee (10k), untouched nature has a value. You don‘t have to walk along the PR, go 500 m to the east and you will find a path, that brings you to OH01 at S 39.549907° W 71.576084°.
Relaxed walk to Laguna Las Avutardas (many broken trees on the last 2 km). On the way to the pass first 1/3 swamp, 1/3 snowfields, later most parts of the trail covered by snow (flushy in the afternoon). Very, very scenic, most impressive section after many very beautiful others) Camped 1km before Laguna Blanca.
Day 2: Started early and left the RR at the ford at 36,6 (few water, snow bridges, take care) to go CC on the snow (99%} in the direction of Quatrepillan. Joined OH03 at S 39.502659° W 71.730390° and left my backpack there. While I was approaching the summit, the sun had melted the surface of the snow, what alllowed for a secure ascent to the summit on the steep slope with mini-spikes (last 200m some easy rock climbing). No clouds, no wind, stayed more than an hour on the Seat of the Gods. Back on OH03, , then OH04 (Villarica Traverse). Camped at a protected place on the ridge before the trail starts to go down to the ranger station.
Day 3: From 1750m down to 1050m (no Ranger there), up to 1250m, down to 1150m, up to 1500m. After leaving the forest zone very easy and scenic. Camped at S 39.459022° W 71.978801°
Someone should explore, if it‘s possible to follow the „Panorama Route“ (Conaf signs and on the OSM) and from the point, where this trail touches the glacier of Volcan Villarica go CC downhill to rejoin OH04.

Day 4: Tried to get to the Villarica summit. The southern side is less steep than all others, but local hikers had told me, there are many cleavages, moreover you see a bergschrund from below. Instead of going to the ski station (down from 1600m to 1400 + the ups and downs, I left my backpack at S 39.454841° W 71.982446° and went CC. The plan was a traverse to join the normal route from the ski station at around 2400 m. But when I arrived at the first snowfields at around 1800m it turned out, that even at 11 a.m. the snow was very hard. Just impossible without crampons. So I went back to my backpack and completed OH04. No summit, but very scenic, saw a puma. Lots of people at the ski station, many organised tours to the summit, all with complete equipment (crampons, ice peak and helmet). Hitchhiked down to Pucon.

* '''22Dec2024 - 27dec2024 / hiking / OH4 - OH3 - OH2 - RR - varA - OH1 (Villarrica traverse + summit quetrupillan) / 4,5 days / Clara'''

From Pucon, took uber in the afternoon to get to pucon ski station. 10k. Didn't stop at conaf so didn't pay anything.

Camp :
- -39.42611,-7198716. (Zanjón Voipir). Close to good water flowing. Nice spot with great views, almost flat spot on confortable soft sand.
- estero aihue (-39.47717,-71.88487). So nice spot with view on 3 volcanoes : villarrica, mocho y lanin. Incredible sunset.
- end of OH1, just under quetrupillan. Crazy high wind comming during the night that broke one of my tent pole. Better to find a wind protected spot, even if sunset up there was incredible.
- laguna azul : a paradise with shade, beach around the lake, can swim, really nice camp.

So nice traverse with great views all along.

No navigation issues even if the trail is a bit overgrown between 34 and 42km on OH4 and even more when descending on OH1 on kms before and after laguna las avutardas. Often slowing down.

No one at the conaf quetrupillan as it was Christmas.

Snow : few patches but nothing problematic. On quetrupillan volcan, was possible without spikes during morning (snow not too strong and neither to melted). The end is really steep climbing on snow. So nice view up there. Easy ski descent.
Water : all rivers flowing well at this time with snow melting.

Return : Hitchhike to Pucon was a bit hard (lots of cars but no one stoping). You can go down to the conaf point after end of the trail, good spot to hitchhike, there is free wifi, water, possible camp spot (the guy of conaf that was sleeping here told us it was ok if we couldn't find a car) and buses 1 or 2 times per day.

* '''Start 2024-11-18/ 3d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Bus Liquine from Santiago to Curarrehue, after short part PR, MR with quite some fences to jump over, snow starting higher than 1400m, hitched to Liquine on MR and PR after crossing. Some small supermarkets and restaurants in Liquine

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 13th / 4 days / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1:
Got an Uber right up to the ski centre so didn't pay the entrance fee. Started walking along the side of the volcano with high winds blowing us over every time we gained a ridge - seems we started on the same day as Michael and Kasia but we didn't see them unfortunately. Small trickles of water available at a few points along the route but filled up all our bottles for the night at the marked tap (-39.43584,-71.99555). We persevered through the high winds but still only made it about 15km for the day before setting up camp just beyond Estero Nilfe (not really any water in it) in the outcrop of trees. Plenty of little camp spots out of the wind, with awesome volcano views. Lucky the wind completely died off as we were setting up and we had an awesome fiery sunset over the lake. Went to bed and had an eerily quiet night. We couldn't work out why until we realised this was the first time we hadn't camped next to running water for 3 months.

Day 2:
Awesome sunny and windless day walking along the volcanic landscape. Water a bit scarce along here but managed to fill up from some smaller trickles until we got to Estero Aihue for lunch - plenty of water flowing. Steep descent down into the forest, crossing Rio Llancahue (plenty of running water) before getting to the 4WD track. Pichillanchue has no camping signs around now so not sure if it is still a camp spot. We continued up the road, did a quick side trip up to the glacier (probably not really worth it unless you haven't seen a glacier yet) then walked along the road to the CONAF office at Sector Quetrupillan. Set up camp just after the bridge (-39.45825,-71.81663) and had a very frosty night. Water available from stream under the bridge.

Day 3:
Really picturesque day walking up the ridgeline along Sendero Los Venados - probably our favourite day. Super clear views of all the volcanoes including our first glimpse of Lanin. Fill up with water before gaining the ridgeline as we didn't encounter any after the spring at (-39.47151,-71.82642) until our lunch spot (-39.50227,-71.76688). A few tree obstructions and some steep bits down into the valley but awesome views! Had lunch below Quetrepillan and was debating whether to climb it. By this point it was engulfed in cloud so we decided to continue on without the summit (very sad). Took the detour out to the cool green waterfall in the middle of the volcanic landscape. Then began the climb up and over to Laguna Azul. Some snowy patches but overall fine to walk along. Started getting very windy in the afternoon. Lots of tents at Laguna Azul (and lots of waste, pretty gross). We found a spot in the trees but had a very windy night.

Day 4:
Woke up to high winds and clouds so decided to leg it out of there. Good views on the descent to Laguna las Avutardas but Lanin unfortunately in cloud. Walked all the way out to the road and tried for a hitch for about an hour. First time on the GPT so many cars flew by us - normally we get a hitch straight away! Finally got a ride in the back of a pick up to Curarrehue where we got the bus back to Pucon.

* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 18th / 7 hiking days & 1 zero day / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR The Villarrica Traverse was one of our favorite sections this season; we were really happy we did it in the fall because the color change in the leaves was really beautiful; going eastbound it definitely gets more beautiful as you progress; we had less trouble finding water than we anticipated given previous reports; we caught a hitch all the way to the ski center and so did not pay an entry fee, and we also did not encounter any guardaparques during the 9 days in the park.

Camp points:

Night 1 - (-39.39748, -71.96793)

Night 2 - Estero Nilfe (-39.45876, -71.97840)

Night 3 - Rio Pichillancahue (-39.46861, -71.85707)

Night 4 - Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026)

Night 5 - below Quetrupian (-39.50221, -71.76620)

Nights 6 and 7 - Laguna Azul (-39.54443, -71.74855)

Night 8 - after river (-39.334752, -71.393837)

Water points - we found water often in this section. Around Volcan Villarrica we would sometimes see just a faint trickle across the path, but by going above or below the trail just a few meters we would find pools of clean water.

Day 1 April 10th

We left Pucón around 09:00. It was sunny, but pretty windy. We walked to Camino Al Volcán since it was more likely that cars on that road would be going to the park. It took two hitches, the second took us all the way to the ski center ticket office. This bypassed the CONAF office which is located at the bottom of the hill, so we did not pay or register. The ski center was closed and the road from the ski center ticket office to the beginning of the trail is gated off to cars, so it was about a 2 km road walk on a dirt road. Right at the entrance to the trail to the left are two buildings, one looked like a garage, the other a kitchen/dining room for the ski center workers. There were some people there working. I stopped and asked if they could fill a bottle of water for me and they did. We started on the trail, but the wind was very strong. We got about 1.5 km into the trail before we decided that we wouldn't make it very far since we were spending almost as much time standing and bracing ourselves against the wind as we did walking. We backtracked to (-39.39748, -71.96793), where we had spotted a somewhat wind-protected spot in a small forest. The site can accommodate 1 tent, and is a little on an angle, but not too bad. Wind protection wasn't amazing, but much better than being out in the open. We found water a little further on the trail. It looked like just a trickle coming across the path, but 3 or 4 meters above the trail there were a couple of pools of clear water deep enough to ladle out water with my mug. It was a cloudless night and a really amazing, long lasting sunset, and we could see the red glow of the volcano reflected in the smoke coming out

Day 2 April 11th

A sunny, windless day. There were nice views of the valley below and it was a walk through a classic volcanic landscape, up and down the various zajons, and through some forests. Overall a beautiful day. We also collected a lot of chaura, the little white, pink or red berries. I called them foam berries because they have a kind of airy consistency, but they were sweet and enjoyable, vaguely apple/strawberry flavored I guess. They aren't really filling, but we enjoyed eating something novel and wild harvested.

We camped at (-39.45876, -71.97840) at Estero Nilfe. There was a flat space big enough for one tent. It just barely fit our Durston X-Mid 2, but we managed to squeeze it in. The sunset view was absolutely amazing. The water in the estero was nearly gone for the season. I had to walk about 25 m up the gulch until I found a trickle like a faucet that wasn't fully turned off, and it was still cloudy. I would recommend filling up at (-39.45497, -71.98195) for drinking and cooking before heading there. This was our favorite campsite of the section, not necessarily because of the site itself, but the views. Highly recommended, but also recommended to get there early if going in high season.

Day 3 - April 12th

We had a nice sunrise in the morning. The landscape for the day was almost entirely volcanic until the end. Kasia was very taken by it and enjoyed it a lot. We had a very interesting experience as well. At about 14:00 we crossed a dry river bed at Estero Tralco. We were standing part way up the hill on the far side. We were listening to a sound that we couldn’t tell if it was wind or water. We were looking up the river bed and finally, about 30 m up we saw running water. We kept watching and the water started getting closer. Within 10 minutes the water had gone past us, and the river bed, which had been dry when we crossed it just minutes before, suddenly had a stream probably a meter wide and 6 cm deep. It was very impressive to see a stream just appear before our eyes.

The path down to Rio Pichillancahue was in the forest, steep but in pretty good condition. We camped at (-39.46861, -71.85707). There were flat spots with space for two tents above the path and another one or two below, with decent river access. There is a sign that says “No Camping”, but it obviously had been a campsite at some point. We arrived nearly at dark so no one was around.

Day 4 - April 13th

We had a slow start. A few hikers passed by as we were wrapping up camp. I was surprised when we arrived at the road. I had anticipated a road that was too damaged to drive on, but there were a variety of vehicles parked or driving on the road throughout the day (it was a weekend). There were also a fair number of hikers along the road as well.

At (-39.46156, -71.84584) we encountered a wooden cross standing in a clearing just off the side of the trail. It was unclear if it was a religious thing or art. A little further back there was a short path going down and a water spigot that worked. The water seemed good, though I would probably filter it.

We camped at Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026). There were 10 or 12 campsites with picnic tables and benches. There were also a number of buildings, several of them clearly intended to be bathrooms. There is no running water, but the river is just a short walk back toward the main path. I'm not sure what happened there, but my best guess would be that it was a concession that started to build a campground and went bankrupt and just abandoned the project. It was a good spot for the night.

Day 5 - April 14th

We passed the CONAF office around 7:30, we didn't see anyone there. We filled up water at the first river crossing. It was a cloudy, still morning. The trail up for the first few km was in good condition and easy to follow. There were a few more water points on the way up. The one marked with a sign saying ”Water 20 m” was the last one we saw until we camped that night. We didn't need water, but I went down to check it out. The path down was very steep and there wasn't really easy access to the stream which was piled over with blow downs. A mug or something small would be helpful to ladle water out. There was also a huge araucaria that had dropped a ton of piñones there and we spent nearly an hour collecting. It was the only really good piñones score that we encountered during the section.

Immediately after that were a few problematic blow downs. The trail went into and out of forest sections with some amazing views in between. By the time we reached the pass it was mostly clear. The pass had an almost 360 view, and from one point we could clearly see to the east Lanín and Quetrupian ahead of us, to the north Volcán Llaima in PN Conguillio just to the west of GPT13, to the west Volcán Villarrica behind us, and to the south Volcan Coshuenco and Volcan Mocho in RN Coshuenco adjacent to GPT18. We had lunch at the pass.

The route down was very steep in some parts, and at times felt a little sketchy until we were back in the forest. I would not want to be doing it on a windy day, and I would definitely budget a little extra time. There were some tricky blow downs on the way down as well. We arrived at a water point at (-39.50221, -71.76620), a stream, and decided to camp next to it. There was a clear, flattish spot and the remnants of a past campfire. There was one more possible campsite 100 m or so on that we saw the next day.

Day 6 - April 15th

We awoke to Quetrupian completely covered in fog. We got a slow start hoping that it would eventually clear, but it remained that way throughout the day. We passed by the Volcán Quetrupian camping spot and were glad we had stayed where we did the night before. It was completely barren and exposed other than a couple of low rock walls. It started to get windy as we made our way down to Laguna Azul. We had seen on the weather that it was supposed to start raining that evening and rain the whole next day, so we wanted to get a good campsite to sit it out. The Laguna was very pretty, but the camping area is, as others have mentioned, kind of trashed. Additionally it was not so easy to find a good spot. Most of the flattish areas were essentially the bottom of a bowl that would accumulate water fast, and there was a lot of cold wind coming directly off the lake. We found a spot around (-39.54443, -71.74855) near a small beach on the way towards RR going south that was more wind protected. We set up two ponchos to have an outdoor cooking and eating area and did some extensive trenching around the tent and built a low rock wall on the water side.

Day 7 - April 16th

Rain, wind and fog all day. The trenching turned out to be very useful. The rain was heavier and lasted longer than the weather prediction, and the trenches filled multiple times throughout the day. Some water found its way into the tent, but not too much. We managed to stay dry overall. We spent the day cooking and peeling piñones in the outdoor area. It was very wet and very windy, but we were grateful to have a fairly protected spot.

Day 8 - April 17th

There were clear skies and sun in the morning. We took extra time getting the wet gear as dried as we could, anticipating that we might not have a good opportunity later. Ford [36.6/1652 ] was dry foot crossable. The water was milky. On the way down to the branch in the trail toward Laguna Blanca there was a good, clear stream that looks like a permanent feature given all the plant growth around it. We dropped the packs and walked to Laguna Blanca. Kasia liked it very much. It didn’t do much for me. There were some great views on the way up to the passes.

Once over the second pass and back into Chile, there were absolutely stunning views in the evening light. The whole valley had a magical quality. Along the route down much of the landscape is essentially wetland, so it was a little slow going to not get our feet wet. We camped at (-39.334752, -71.393837) just on the other side of the river. The spot was above the path tucked away in the trees. It was a fairly large clear spot, though on somewhat of an angle. Going back out to the path, we had an exceptional sunset view over the mountains.

Day 9 - April 18th

We had an amazing sunrise in the morning. The route down continued to be wet and boggy in many places, requiring careful choice of footing. There were great views on the way down with the fall color. The trail through the woods above Laguna Las Avutardes was better, though there were some blow downs. We did not make the detour to the lake. There was a very nice forest further on with some very large trees. We hiked down to the highway and tried to hitchhike from the rest stop just across the street from the cafe, which was closed when we were there. After a bit with no luck we started hiking the highway down. After about 30 minutes a Mapuche man in a truck stopped without us even trying to hitchhike and offered us a ride to Currarehue which we gratefully accepted. He dropped us off on the main street in town and we caught a bus a few minutes later to Pucón.

* '''2024-Mar-24 to 2024-Mar-28 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 04 02 RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, Tabanos, Mosquitos and only very easy fords. Clean water is limited in some parts. Water markers flowing. Laguna Azul nice for a swim.

Started in Pucon, going for 04 Villarrica Traverese, the one Uber on Sunday forenoon does not want the job up to the ski center, and hitchhiking is harder then expected on this sunny, blue sky sunday. So first lots of road hiking, got 3 short rides later on.
Rangerstation at -39.349925,-7196941 Entry fee is 8k, friendly ranger, you get a map, not that useful though. The ranger paints the possible campsites on it.

Water at -39.435836,-71.995461
Next clean water at -39.454973,-71.981950 camp here or take water for camp next to Estero Nilfe.

First camp at Estero Nilfe, very brown, sandy, fast stream: -39.458163,-71.978453, camp: -39.458755,-71.978396
Next water again very brown and sandy at -39.476059,-71.924327
Tiny stream of fresh clean water at -39.474726,-71.891417
Bigger clean stream at -39.477181,-71.886020
Further at -39.475188,-71.874056
Bridge over not so clear water at -39.467944,-71.857586
Next clean water at -39.461168,-71.832391

Second camp at ranger camp -39.456630,-71.817651 (noone around there). There are toilets, access to river 5m southeast at the bridge -39.457709,-71.816879
Soon next clean water at -39.461418,-71.819858 I think there is one more fresh water soon after, but not sure. Take a bit, there is non for a while until -39.502209,-71766203
Next at -39.507045,-71.754523

Few km after park ranger 04 31.9 on 04 is partly overgrown and lots of fallen trees, especially on ridge on downhill from ridge to the east. Third Camp nearby close to the waterfalls around -39.511782,-71.750506 some stonewalls for tents but no larger vegetation. Shortly after last water until lake azul. Amazing viewpoint south of pass 2.5/1924. Ford 40.3/1593 should be dry feet crossing now, I built some stone islands into the stream.

Quite dense forest afterwards, next possible camp where 02a ends, but not so nice and no water. Afterwards regulary patches of meadows but without water. Path at -39.652889,-71.843811 impassable but wacky lodge bridge at -39.652985,-71.843994, just a few meters west. Bridge at 58.6 is gone but easy ford a few douzen meters southeast. Camp after ford, asked the guy from the settlement, he is super chill and say I can choose wherevee I want to put my tent. Meadows full of shit though. Around 8-9pm massive blast of Bumm-Bumm music from the settlement, easy to hear even 200m away next to the river and with earplugs.

Gate at RR eastwards at junction B. Got a lift there to Liquiñe. Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at -39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

Parts of Villarica Traverse is really beautiful. Southern parts of RR it's long, long boring road walking.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + summit Quetrupillan / Juliet and Martin '''

Day 1 Cararrehue to (-39.47055, -71.63177)

We left Cararrehue after sleeping in a campsite (altitude 360) for 7000 pesos per person. It's a good idea to stock up on water, as the rivers are milky. We filtered the water with our water bottles and it was fine. Lots of gates to climb. We slept in the forest near a river at the entrance to the national park. We recommend it.

Day 2 from (-39.47055, -71.63177) to Laguna Azul

We reached the laguna blanca, which is also milky. Magnificent. Great bivouac spot at laguna azul, which is finally transparent. Several places to shelter from the wind. There are a few people and garbage, but it's easy to get away from them and set up camp.

Day 3 ascent of Quetrupillan volcano

A long day's walk to the summit of Quetrupillan volcano and back. Lots of wind. Magnificent views, a must! We decided to do the grand tour, following the marked path (track on gaia) and not the GPT tracks after reading about other experiences on wikiexplora. We didn't encounter any technical difficulties. Long climb and very steep at the end. We recommend following the Gaia trail.
Back to laguna azul where we had left our gear to climb lighter.

Day 4 laguna azul a ruta 201 CH
We finally finished this section in one last day due to bad weather (continuous rain). Last day in the forest. No interest beyond that. We rejoined ruta 201 CH, where we were quickly picked up and hitchhiked to Conaripe. We stayed in Conaripe at the Hotel Chumay, which is very good and not too expensive.
There are buses in Conaripe, and we took one to Licanray as we'd missed the direct one to Panguipuilli, but it runs once a day. From Licanray we reached Panguipuilli and then Valdivia.

* '''From 2024-03-06 to 2023-03-08 // 2,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + summit Quetrupillan // Quentin Clavel'''

After a long, smooth and easy to follow ascent, threw gravel road then nice and large forest track, and finally lovely little path, I reached the volcanic plateau.

It was very windy when I arrived at Laguna Azul, and I really hesitated to go up to the volcano Quetrupillan. I finally put my pant and jacket on, and start the climb, without my bag that I left at the campsite next to the Laguna.

Even if it's windy, I think the first part of the climb is definitely worth it, to have this amazing view on Villarica on one side and Lanin on the other ! Stunning !

Then I continue, but didn't follow the GPX track, and just cross country threw different snow patches, and loosing rocks area, to reach the crater (east part). I stayed there less than 2 minutes I guess, the wind was just that crazy that thought I'll be blown away.

The view up there is pretty nice, but from where I was on the crater, I've got the summit part in front of me that hide the Villarica volcán. Anyway, with these conditions it wasn't doable to go to the summit safely. So I just went down, sliding on volcanic little rocks and snow patches, lot of fun !

I found back my bag and spent the night at Laguna Azul campsite, enjoyed to be sheltered from the wind on this tiny forest.

Before leaving the area make sure to fill your water as you'll not have clear/clean water for a while.

The next day was very hard because of the harsh weather. It was rainy a lot, very windy and so cold. I even was into a snow storm on the volcanic plateau and all the length until the entrance on the forest. That wasn't fun at all ! I struggled a bit on the turn around laguna blanca, as the water from the heavy rain created some small rivers that I had to cross.

Then as the altitud decrease, snow became rain, and it finally stopped to turn into blue sky at the end of the day.

From the volcanic plateau, you'll alternate between forest trail, gravel road and asphalt road. Mostly very easy to follow. Few time you'll pass kind of residentially place, all the people that I met were absolutely lovely !

Between PK 12 and PK 8, you'll have few gates and fences to jump. I met Don Carlos at PK12, he's the owner of the property where you have to climb 2 fences and pass a gate, very nice and kind man, he even escorted me to pass the first gate and the fence and explained me the way very precisely.

Then after PK8, you reach a gravel road, it was longer for me because I stopped very regularly to eat looooot of blackberrys and plums that I found on the way. Finally, you'll reach the internacional road, and the city of currarehue.

Currarzhue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 02 +03 + B/ Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [0.0-34.6]

Bus from Pucon to Curarrehue leaves frequently from the terminal Vipu-Ray (-39.27753, -71.97265) and costs 2000 Pesos. I had to climb a locked wooden gate (8.6), locked barbed wire gates (10.1 and 11.4.) and barbed wire fence (9.8 and 11.7) while following the RR. Other than that the first 20 km are pretty easy to walk and relatively boring. There was a little stream next to RR at km 11.2. At km 15.7 and 18.3 it's possible to acces Estero Huililco. The RR crosses a small river at km 23.1, which is the last water source until Laguna Blanca. There is plenty of flat space for camping all around Laguna Blanca.

Day 2: RR [34.6-40.2] + to Volcan Quetrupillan and back on OH16-02 + OH16-03

There are still some big snow patches on OH16-03, but they can be avoided with some rock scrambling. Just before the Summit of Quetrupillan I had to use both my hands for climbing up. On the way down I took the OSM trail that leaves the RR at -39.49735, -071.72325 and rejoines the RR at -39.50155, -071.72667. It's pretty steep, but I didn't had to use my hands to climb down. But I had to maneuver around some snowfields to get back to the RR. There are a few water sources during the first 2 km of OH16-03. The view from Volcan Quetrupillan is amazing and the hike to the summit isn't to hard.

Day 3: RR [40.2-64.5] + OH16-B

The Bridge at km 58.6 is gone, but its an easy ford. Possible camping spot just south of water marker at km 44.2. I took OH16-B down to the main road and hitched from there to Conaripe. There is water at all water/ford markers on the whole RR.

Outside of the area around Volcan Quetrupillan the RR is pretty boring. A traverse from the ski area (OH16-4) over Quetrupillan to Puesco Norte (OH16-1) is the more scenic route.

* '''2024-Feb-02 to 2024-Feb-06 / 4.5 days / Hiking / Westbound / Villarrica traverse / Gerald'''

Since i came from Argentina i wanted to start at Puesco. In Curarrehue i couldn't find a Gascontainer with a screw. GYG had none and the Ferreterias have only the long one or the one without the screw.... But there is a bus going to Pucon every 20min for 2k.
Run out of time and camped at the Puesco Cervezeria. Nice beer and good spot next to the river. CONAF couldn't give me any information about water sources along the trail. If you start in Pucon they do incl. a Map....
I always found enough water, but i don't need that much. Camped at Laguna las Avutardes (bad weather was coming), Laguna Azul (really nice, almost no litter), Rio Pichillancahue (only spot for maybe 2 tents, water was cloudy but drinkable aber you let the soil (?) settle, in the morning it's cleaner) and 6km before the ski center since i wanted to see the volcano glowing at night. Camping on volcanic gravel was not smart but didn't damage my tent :)
I had a lot of luck with the weather, since i could descent right before the big rain. Beautiful trail, landscape is unreal. Just keep in mind if you wear trailrunner, the vulcanic rocks will eat them :)
In Pucon is a shoe repair shop between Uruguay and Peru street called "clinica de calzado". They seem more specialized in leather boots, but tried their best on my trailrunner. Have Frankenstein shoes now :)
There are tours going up to the volcano villarrica, but they are not allowed to summit right now. They charge around 100k. Maybe with some planing it is possible to get the gear from an tour operator at the ski station and continue the journey. In the area around Villarrica is cell reception.

* 2024-Feb-07 - 2024-Feb-10, NOBO, Hiking, 4 days, RR, 16-01, czimahi

from Liquiñe by road and the direction Trancas Negras; Join RR, Bridge 16 (5 - no bridge; night in camp without water. Next day to Laguna Azul and by 16-01 to laguna Avutardas (camp before 34,7) lots of water on the way till the last indicated. next day to Puesco camping on road (with artesanal beer), then going back to Conaf to 16-01. by the level of camp Puesco there is a bridge but closed by gate, easy to cross by left side, i decided not to go but then I was in that place, the way is just here. Just one spiny fence without any gate on the way.

If you go just the larger "road" for a car you will get join to the 16-01 which in some case is marked by some horse trail or something like this - I returned thinking I'm lost but I would get the route. In Trancura a car stopped me and took me to Curarrehue.

* 2024-01-28 to 2024-01-31: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days Villarrica traverse

Like many others, we chose to do the scenic Villarrica traverse. We skipped the first day around the Villarrica mountain and started from CONAF Chinay (by taking an Uber -- until 1km before CONAF it's 2wd friendly). We left our stuff at the somewhat abandoned looking campsite at S 39° 27.571', W 071° 49.815' and went for a short hike up to Glaciar Pichillancahue. Nice, but not really a must in our opinion. The next day we hiked to the refreshing waterfalls at S 39° 30.715', W 071° 45.147' and camped there. The third day, we went up to the rim of the Quetrupillan volcano -- nice views! This involved hiking up some snowfields (but no technical gear was required). The peak itself involves scrambling up a short route. Not difficult but the rock is incredibly crumbly and so we turned around. Fun descent via buttsliding down the snowfields. Hike to the very scenic Lago Azul. We pushed on along the very scenic trail and camped at S 39° 33.759', W 071° 39.654', a bit after the getting back across the border to Chile from Argentina. The argentinian side would make for an awesome campsite with a great sunset too (in our case, there was also water from snowmelt), especially at S 39° 34.315', W 071° 40.548'. The fourth day was simply a hike out with a short stop at another lake. Easy hitchhike back to Pucón.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-16 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex & Lotti'''

We liked this hike a lot, especially the diversity of the landscape with the forests, volcanoes and lakes. We were happy that we did it in eastbound direction, because this way the landscape got more and more beautiful towards the end, and transportation to and from trail was easy.
Trail conditions were very good, only the trail from "Cafe Villarrica Traverse" to the Puesco CONAF office (part of Option 1) was overgrown and sometimes hard to find.

Camping:
Estero Nilfe (Beautiful view, no clean water), CONAF camp Chinay (weird abandoned construction site, but river close), Laguna Azul (beautiful campsite, but clearly used by many people, not much trash when we were there), Laguna Las Avurtardas (beautiful lake and campsite, lots of cow and horse shit, so water has to be filtered)

Transport to start:
We took an Uber to the Ski Center and paid 12000 pesos (more than what the driver asked for, but he had to wait for us while we did the registration at the CONAF office, so we paid a little extra).

Transport from end:
Bus at 5pm from the CONAF office in Puesco to Curarrehue, then bus to Pucon. (There is a river with nice swimming sites very close to the CONAF office to make waiting for the bus enjoyable)

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 5 days / Hiking / (eastbound?) / Villarrica traverse RR - {16-04} - {16-02} - {16} - {16-A} - {16-01} / Andrew'''

This was my favourite hike so far. I did it in 5 days, but I wish I'd added an extra day to do the 2 side trips mentioned by Nat and Tomas (Quetrupillan summit and glacier Pichillancahue). Notes for logistics if you're doing the traverse and plan to return to Pucon: Chili Kiwi hostel won't store bags during the high season while you hike, but Gecko hostel will (for $5.000 CLP).

Day 1 (trail start to Zanjón pino Huacho):

Two rides got me up to CONAF station. I registered for the hike, $10.000 CLP, and they gave me a map of the trail and a tag for my backpack. I only saw the park rangers once however in the final 2km of the trail. Officially no wild camping. I was eager (ok maybe impatient) to start so I started hiking up to the ski centre after about 15 minutes without success hitchhiking. In hindsight I wished I waited longer, as the 8km uphill to the ski centre is not that interesting. I ate lunch at the ski centre, refilled my water bottles, and started the trek.

Incredible landscapes, going back and forth between barren volcanic rocks spotted with wildflowers to tall grasses. I found a stream that looked clear at ( 39°24'57.16"S, 71°58'18.54"W), so I drank water from it. Otherwise no water until Zanjón pino Huacho where I camped.

Day 2 (Zanjón pino Huacho to near Chinay):

Started with Araucaria forests, and then back to volcanic landscapes. First glimpse of the twin peaks of Choshuenco/Mocho and later on Lanin. After Valle de Fuego, you up and down over a couple valleys, the last one had a stream and that's where I had lunch. Long uphill stretch, a stand of Araucaria trees, and then windings paths through tall grasses just above the treeline. Many day hikers walking up from Pichillancahue to the mirador del volcan. River Pichillancahue looked like it had some nice places to camp, but marked with no camping signs. With so many people going back and forth I decided to continue onwards. I camped at an official looking campground with a water spigot and a thunder box close to Chinay.

Day 3 (near Chinay to Quetrupillan waterfall):

After Chinay there is a long uphill but worth it for the views. Partway up the hill there's a sign for water 20 m downhill. Tricky to get to, but this is the last water for several hours. I was carrying 1.75L and that wasn't enough. Amazing views up high, then a slow descent. Found some muddy pools, and then finally a clear stream at (39°30'25.70"S, 71°45'15.91"W). Lots of blackflies, but there was a cool moment where a lizard crawled onto my shoes and started hunting them. Camped at Quetrupillán waterfalls, stunning landscapes and view of the fire from Villarrica at night.

Day 4 (Quetrupillan waterfall to Laguna Avutardas):

A couple spots where the trail is covered in snow and you need to find your own way down. Stopped at Laguna Azul for lunch. Sad to see the state of the campground there, so much trash. If you're doing the traverse make sure you don't start following the main GPT trail after the lake like I did. And then it's worth going back to the main trail even if you have to cross the river at a difficult spot. I tried to find another crossing, and then made my own way through the lava field which was difficult, would not recommend. Continued onwards, more snow. Laguna blanca was worth a detour. More amazing views, and then the last snowing section followed by a long muddy descent to Laguna Avutardas. Several other Villarrica traverse hikers camped on the beach.

Day 5 (Launa Avutardas to end):

Coldest night by far with frost on my tent in the morning! Easy hike to the road. First sighting of the park rangers. Hitchhiked back to Pucon.

* '''2024-Jan-17 to 2024-Jan-19 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {16-02} - {16-03} - {16-02} - RR - {16-B} / Lilian'''

I really enjoy GPT16, walking on the beach beside Laguna Blanca, climbing Volcán Quetrupillán, camping at outlet of Laguna Azul and soaking in hot spring at Liquiñe, they are all so lovely.

Volcán Quetrupillán still covered by lot of snow above 1930m. Also need to climb up a 40° snow slope and traverse to it's rim. Take your time.

RR km0 - km8.9 : dirt road walking.

Km8.0 : clear water flowing beside the road. (-39.38490, -71.63200)

Km8.3 : camping possibilities on grassland at uphill side with no fence.(-39.38470, -71.63648)

Km8.65 : locked gate with barbed wire fence, a house just behind the gate, better ask for the permission first.

Km8.9 : 4 way junction, dirt road become an old trail.

Km9.75 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. 2 holes at fence , one is already covered by bamboo, another one is at (-39.38352, -71.64776), go through it you will connect to an dirt road at other side.

Km10.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Open the gate at top, remains the lock there and big step over, my legs are too short, the barbed wire breaks a hole at my shorts here ;(

Km11.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. At right side there is a small gap let small people go through, but not for backpack, so climb it!

Km11.15 : bridge and a stream flowing good at right side(-39.39046, -71.65845), go over the bridge then you will find a side trail at right side to stream.

Km11.3 : bridge and a stream flowing good, but no way to go down.

Km11.35 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Climb.

Km11.7 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. Houses at (-39.39480, -71.66123), a dog continues barking when i was climbing the fence, make me so anxiety...

Km12.2 : finally, this gate can open it with the chain at middle. But i didn't know it can be opened before i saw the chain, so i climbed the gate...

FYI : RR follow the valley and Estero Huililco climbing up, but no clear water, because the river is milky.

Km16.5 : grassland(-39.42330, -71.65069) with no fence can fit many tents, but i think this spot is just for group hikers, because it is beside the road without any covers, every cars passing here must see you, it is not safe for solo hiker.

Km18.25 : camping spot can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring beside the river. Some trees and bushes here, very little privacy.

Km18.6 : bus stop here, and i don't know about the bus schedule.

Km18.65 - km19.2 : look like is a paid campground.

Km20.05 : dirt road junction, an old dirt road at left side, flat and without rocks, you can camp here if need. South of RR in this forest also lot spots for camping.

Km23.15 : crossing of a milky stream, just above ankle. It is the last reliable water until Laguna Blanca.

Km26.25 : junction of dirt road and trail, RR is turn to trail now, dirt road will end by damaged and huge blowdown, so turn left and climb up on the trail.

Km27 : information board( with Spanish and English). From the board, RR-CC-A[29.3+5.9] is the official route.

Km29.3 : junction of RR and {16-A}, RR at here is a clear trail, not CC. Easy to follow.

Km29.85 : water spot(-39.51775, -71.65871)! Tiny stream flowing low with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts, easy to collect. No water at downstream, because it just flow some meters then seep into sand. Some more tiny streams also flowing low beside the trail or across the trail by snow melts, but i think this is the best one in some km.

Km30.6 : viewpoint of Lanín! Some snow patch nearby, flat and easy to walk on.

Km32.6 : Laguna Blanca, cross 2 chocolate stream, just above ankle, but the riverbed is muddy in some steps.

Km33.05 : a 80m snow patch, not steep, not difficult, but you'll drop into the lake if slide.

Km35.2 : junction of RR and {16-A}. Tiny stream flowing good with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts beside the junction, easy to collect.

Km35.4 : steep snow slope at east side of the pass. Better go around it at right side (north). Tiny stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, at west side of the pass too.

Ford[36.6/1652] : crossing of a milky stream, above ankle.

Km37.6 - km38 , km39.9 - km40.1 : snow patches, easily go around.

Then i go for {16-02} then {16-03} climbing Volcán Quetrupillán.

{16-02} km0.15 : small stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, easy to collect.

Km1.65 : snow patch.

Km1.9 : junction of {16-02} and {16-03}, {16-03} maybe sometime have rock cairns, but i just find the trail when it is already very close to summit, so mostly CC go by yourself. {16-02} km2.1 to pass[2.5/1924], almost half is covered by snow, it becomes steep when get close to pass, be careful.

{16-03} km0.45 : snow slope steep go down, i go down at a little north, the slope is much shorter.

Km1.15 : due to lot of snow melts, the milky lake become larger than it shows on map. So walk a little east to go around.

Km1.3 : snow start, i recommend just walking on snow to trail junction waypoint at km2.1, it is gentle.

Km2.1 : tiny stream(-39.51478, -71.73556) flowing low with clear water just beside the trail junction (but i didn't see any trail here.)

Then the climbing is covered by lot of snow. You can walk on a dry rocky slope until km2.45, then choose continue finding dry slope to walk (but they are going around and around so the distance are a little longer and some puds, also sometimes block by snow wall), or climbing up on snow directly.

I climbed on the snow slope, because they are stable and not too steep, looks like better than following rock cairns on the dry slope.

When you arrive km3.7(-39.50145, -71.72655), look up to the mountain top. Of course the sharp peak at left is Quetrupillán, and your target is climbing up to the part at its right side, red colour and a little rocky one, that's the pass(-39.49857, -71.72277), also trail there.

Because most of the slope still covered by snow, so go a little southeast, you'll find a dry rock slope, parallel to GPX tracks. Not too much, but at least some places you can stand on easily and take a short break in climbing. Straight climb up the 40° snow slope to km4.05(2265m) (-39.50003, -71.72333), then traverse to the red part, trail is here(-39.49889, -71.72298). When it close to the red part, the snow slope becomes a little icy, kick step and be careful.

Arrive on the red, you can follow the loose rocky trail to the pass. You can continue climbing up to summit or walking on the rim for views.

After enjoying the moments for volcano, i slide down at here(-39.49886, -71.72313), a good way without rocks. Then skiing back to {16-02}. Lot fun!

I took 4.5 hours for climbing up and 2.5 hours for go down back to Laguna Azul. At my first plan, i want to go down to camp beside the waterfall at (-39.51315, -71.74967) then back to the Laguna Azul on next day, but it looks like lot of snow in the valley after the no trail's trail junction, also need a steep going down the pass. So i just take a round trip even i climbed Quetrupillán with my full backpack.

RR lake,camp[40.2/1597] : Laguna Azul, clear water. Can fit 3-4 tents under some short trees, with fire ring and wind protection, but a little crowded.

Ford[40.3/1593] : lake outlet, wet feet crossing, a beautiful camping spot can fit 1 tent just downstream 20m, another crossing point there too.

Camp[40.3/1601] : still covered by snow patch now.

Km41.7 : camping area with fire pit and log seats, covered by many trees.

X[49.6/997] : 4 way junction, some more junctions at south.

Water[51.1/871] : flowing low with clear water.

Km51.6 : 3 way junction, at left, a good road going down at east side of the valley. At right is RR, go down at west side of valley. Road is heavy damage just after the junction, be careful for crossing, the road is collapsing(-39.60354, -71.81894).

Km51.9 - km52.4 : a large beautiful grassland, nice camping spot. Start from here, the "road" becomes better condition.

X[55.6/618] : junction of RR and a good road, looks like coming from other sidecof valley.

Km57.75: grassland, camping spot.

Settlement, bridge[58.6/440] : the road is damaged before the "bridge", a board bridge (-39.65286, -71.84399) for human crossing. The bridge also is damaged, looks like washed away, so crossing at upstream (-39.65410, -71.84389), rock bar underwater, above ankle. This stream's water is flowing good with clear water. After crossing is a nice spot with lunch, well tree shade. Fire ring and log seats under a tree too, but it is in the area of settlement.

Camp[62.1/486] : i didn't notice the spot when i passed here, maybe I missed it.

Km64.5 : junction of RR and {16-B}, i take {16-B} because of shorter distance to main road, also no need to climb up 120m again as RR.

Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Then i walked all the way to Liquiñe, no bus and no luck(no successful hitch).

For resupply details read GPT17.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4 +sendero glacier Pichillancahue ( we did a cross country after towards the East to go to the Morador Los volcanoes ) / Yannick & Nolwenn'''
- Water : easy to find
- Snow : still snow left on the Quatrupillen volcano but manageable to go up
- Camping spot : easy to find
- Weather : Sunny
- Resupply : in Pucon to start and in Conaripe at the end of the section

* '''2023-01-02/05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + volcano Quetrupillán / Hermann & Coline'''

The GPT16 was a really nice experience !

Milagro, who hosted us in Liquiñe, gave us cherries and nuts for the travel ! With that, the sloapses up-hill felt less hard than it was for our legs.

We slept at the Camp Without Water {16} [52.3/794] the first night (and even found water nearby). We arrived at the Laguna Azul the next day.

We stayed there two days, so that I could walk up to the summit of Volcano Quetrupillán.

The ascension was okay. The sunny sky was a bit covered by clouds, but without wind. I just had a headhick after, because of the UVs reflecting on the snow (I guess). There are some places where one's can't avoid walking on it, so I took my time to "read" the landscape (underground rivers etc).

I left the GPT to take the optional road on Locus, that follows the crater at the end. It was scary at the top, but not dangerous.

On the way back, I started by following a group of men on a much easier way going westbound. Then, I went south and it was easy to follow the landlarks I had token outbound (the frozen lake for instance).

There was wind in the mid of the day and two chilians warned us that there would be snow in the night. Therefore, we spend the night at the Laguna Blanca : lot's of wind, but no snow there and even a new glacier river in the morning !

Thanks to the previous posts on Wikiexplora and also to Lukas and Tess we've meet on the way, we took enough water for the next 30kms down-hill. Actually, there was a river (probably due to the storm), even crossing the road at some point, but I'm not sure it was drinkable.

We went to Catripulli instead of Currarehue. We wanted to take a bus to Villarica – where there is a Scotiabank –, and to skip sections 14 & 15, so to join the GPT again at Icalma. This was a bad idea... There's no direct bus between Villarica and Melipeuco ; we had to first reach Temuco. Moreover, there's no bus from Melipeuco to Icalma, so we hitchhiked. (There were not many cars ; it took us a day.)

Food :
1. In Liquiñe, the shop just before the bridge is smaller and more expensive than the others (saying Milagro).
2. There are no piñones at the foot of the Araucanian tree, since the season starts in march (saying a woman who took us in her car).
3. In Catripulli, there's a shop with all you need and more – even argentinian cakes and Malta beers !

* '''2024-Jan-02 to 07 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Huella Andina plus new options / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a start of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT16 to middle of GPT18, next log is in GPT18H. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1754087775097101/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.]

In summary, we crossed the border into Argentina from Pucon and gained a ridge beneath Lanin's east face and traversed it towards a hiking trail in Argentina known as "Cara Sur Volcán Lanin". We then utilized the Huella Andina (HA) to end in San Martin. It took us ~5 days.

Day 1: Pucon-border-camp 1
From Pucon we took the Pullman Bus ("IGI LLAIMA") heading to San Martin, Argentina. It is the only company going to Argentina and leaves at 11:00am. I figured it would be the easiest way to cross the border and also the most likely way to keep food from being checked. It worked but it was slow and expensive (19 thousand CLP per person). They never ended up asking about food in the end, but the bus driver told us no fresh food was allowed and to make sure to have your PDI paper (a photo of it works too). The bus driver let us out at the National park guards for the Lanin park (we failed to explain we wanted to get off 2 km down the road). Luckily nobody at the park asked us what we were doing. We just continued walking on the road and got a hitch 2km to the start of the route. It took about 4hours to get from Pucon to the start, border time waits will vary. There just so happened to be a locked gate where we started and an old road, we jumped over it and prepared our things under some Aracaurias.

It looked as if there were many options for access but we decided against following any of the side ridge lines and instead aimed for a green bushy bowl at the top of a gentle valley in front of us. The valley is between a highly cliffy ridge to the right (the first one post Lanin) and a slightly rocky ridge on the left. There was an old road that took us to the base of the slope. The road goes along a circle, one might want to go directly cross country. Anyway, then we marched up the first steep slope through low shrubbery. On top we then made an ascending traverse to the left side of the valley, crossing through a fairly recent burn zone and a creek that runs in the middle. Despite the trees down, the walking was still pleasant, there were cow tracks here and there that we could follow. Looking from top of the first hill where the burnt Araucarias are, there was a nice non bushy c-shaped curve on the left of the creek that looked like it would take you in nicely.

To get to the top of the ridge (or green bowl as I say) you will have to cross some shrubbery but it was never terrible, only ~300m of rather easy bush bashing. However, getting from the creek to the shrubbery was rather steep. We followed a sloped washout, it was a mixture of steep rock (mostly solid) and hollow dirt, which seemed to enjoy engulfing your leg at times (postholing through dirt). I wouldn't worry about it too much, but to some it may be uncomfortably steep.
We made camp at the top of the ridge in a grassy plateau with water (-39.63637, -71.43107), unfortunately it was very windy.

Day 2 - Camp 1 - lanin Traverse - Lago Paimun
The next day we ascended a bit above camp and then followed underneath a ridgeline and made a long traverse with mild up and downs to the main pass before the ugly moraine part near one of Lanin's SE glacier's (-39.66646, -71.47695). The traverse before the moraine was easy, one could take many ways, the terrain was simple and there was lots of water. The moraine however had more obstacles and the hanging glacier up high made crossing in the mid day heat feel a bit intimidating. My main worry was crossing Arroyo Rucu Leufu near the end, my plan was to cross it high but since there was still solid snow covering it, we crossed it easily (breaking through was not a worry but if it happened it would have terrible consequences, therefore maybe aim to cross it higher than where we crossed, when snow is gone, fording should be easier). For the moraine crossing, one could traverse it high or low. My plan was to cross low where the moraine walls were less steep but we did a bit of both, Tomáš traversed closer to the 2000m mark and it was fine for him, I dropped down to see how the lower slopes were and I was happier on them. However if you go low you will have to climb back up no further than the moraine rib ~ here (-39.67443, -71.48657) as it is the one before Arroyo Rucu Leufu.
Once we hit the lookout trail on the other side the 10km decent went very fast. Apart from the unnecessary river crossing we did twice; the signage and gps are misleading and make you ford the river twice but there is a trail now that stays on the west side of the river, no need to cross. Near the end of the trail we took a dirt road on our right to get to camping Mawizache faster. I was told this camping had good food, but I wish we had just gone straight to the boat crossing and camped on the other side. However, bcs of this we never crossed the park entrance so noone ever ended up asking questions...

At Mawizache we had our first taste of bizarre Argentina currency exchange. The camping was an okay price (2mil each) but the dinner ended up costing us a lot more than expected. I had changed a 50us bill to Argentina pesos in Pucon but it was such a terrible rate (25000pesos for a 50, almost half of what I should have gotten) that I could not even afford to buy the dinner. Because of this we had to pay with a 50usd bill or 100usd bill bcs anything less cannot be exchanged in Argentina. We got the change back in pesos at a rate around ~1usd:650pesos. Long story short, it sorted itself out and it was nice to have a dinner on the lake, the trout and wine was excellent but she forgot to make two other dishes we ordered. We bought some white bread loafs from the man at the camping for 1mil each.

Day 3: Lago Paimun - Termas Camping
As for the next day, we crossed Lago Paimun by the little boat with a bell (-39.74619, -71.52482). It cost 3mil each bcs we were not staying at the campsite. Another reason we should have crossed the night before (hours for the boat bell system are 8-13:00 and 15:00-20:30). The camp there is run by a large family, they had bread and probably other food as well. We had to register our names and then the elder showed us the start of the Huella Andina trail behind her house.
The Huella Andina trail was signed and easy to follow. The first half of it on the way to the road was super fast and then near the end it became more slow and slightly grown over, but never terrible. Only one river ford.
The border road that this trail shoots you out on is closed for car traffic, it seemed. There is a barricade at the border checkpoint and no one stationed there. After the checkpoint the road becomes very much a "road" and seems to see a lot of vehicle traffic. We arrived at the hotsprings almost too early as there were a few groups. The hotsprings were once taken care of, now abandoned. There is this incredibly annoying wooden walkway that takes you to them (~800m) and then if you continue on it you get to the camping. The walkway is falling apart in places and there is a small suspension bridge that I hope does not collapse on somebody. We had dinner and got water by this suspension bridge and went back to the hotsprings when everyone was gone. The main one is bath water temperature (it is the largest and with a wooden patio like feature). There is another one maybe 30m before that is more dirty but warmer. The other ones that exist are way too hot, I think they are 60-70 degrees.
Instead of walking back we followed the broken walkway to the Termas camping and slept there. Didn't realize untill the morning it was payed camping, so we payed 2mil each.

Day 4: Termas- Achen Niyeu area -camp near pass
The road was not so bad, we got a hitch for the last 5km. Lots of cars going up to the hot springs but it was a bit too early for downward traffic. Laguna Verde is very popular and we thought they would charge us a day rate so we tried to cross the lagoon where it was narrow - that was a fail, too deep. They didn't charge us anyways so it was a waste of time but they did need us to register. Apart from trying to avoid Laguna Verde, it actually was a nice place in the end. The owners are a young and easy to get along with couple, their shop had lots of treats like pizza, bread, muffins and other basics. The rest of the day was slow for us as we were trying to plan an alternative ridge traverse but then the weather started to move in so we just hid our bags and went up Achen Niyeu quickly. The way down was probably the closest I will get to skiing this year. The plateau around Achen Niyeu was an incredibly beautiful volcanic landscape, easy to sit and admire for some time. Due to weather and Tomáš 's leg acting up we made an early camp in the trees on the other side of the pass. There is a tarped shelter set up where we camped, either for emergencies or for someone else (-39.88473, -71.54229).

Day 5 pass camp- bush camp
We may have missed the rain but we definitely had to deal with the consequences the next morning. The trail is still in good shape down from the pass but since it is still bushy and muddy in spots we got drenched from wet grass and leaves. The refugio Rincón de los pinos would have been a nice place to camp and so would have Auquinco. We went to Auquinco thinking it would be abandoned, but we wanted to see the state of the trail that supposedly goes around the lake, we were hoping there was a chance one could cross Lago Lolog to get to the other trails on the opposite side. It does not look like this is possible without weeks/months worth of machete work. There was a man, a citizen park-ranger or something like that, who was called Juan and based at Auquinco for the summer. He had a funny character and was very welcoming. He offered coffee and a place above his fire to dry our things and also told us no one has used those trails around the lake for at least 10 years.[November 2024: Tomáš has since removed that noexistent trail from OSM, it went west along the northern shore of Lago Lolog.] We enjoyed the pretty surroundings and then headed to the end of the trail near "bush camp" (40.0211644S, 71.3612525W) for our final night. The bush camp is just a few spots in the lake shore, no services, since it is free, but it is far nicer than the paid camping (7.5mil).
Next day we hitched back to San Martin easily.

* '''2023-29-12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 and 4 / Jens '''

Hitchhiked from Curarrehue to the trailhead of Option 1.

I didn't pay any entrance fees.

Lots of water until Villarrica volcano. Around the volcano good camping but little water. Water was clean.

Hitchhiked from the ski resort to Pucon. Lots of people in the resort for daywalks.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-01 & 02 + Quetrupillan summit + Villarica traverse / Martial.'''

Puesco - Pucón
Villarica traverse is indeed an interesting alternative for GPT16. The views on Volcanos are gorgeous and trail in good conditions for the all trip. My personal camping recomandations are Laguna azul, volcan Quetrupillan waterfall (on osm : -39.51160, -71.75365) and estero aihue (39.47713° S, 71.88582° W) or Zanjón pino Huacho for clean water access and sleep under the stars ✨ Although siphon water from the bucket in the zanjon was hard but should be better after recent rains.. Water from the various glaciar rivers is way cleaner in the morning to be drunk. An interesting combo for people in need for a treat would be stopping in Termas Geometricas wich looks to be one of the best attraction of the region.. (20mil or so)
I luckily was granted with nice weather for Quetrupillan climb wich for me is really worth-it. Hopefully you get a lucky ride for the long descent from the centro de ski to Pucón. Take plenty of water if you start nobo !

* '''2023-Feb-22 to 2023-Feb-26 / 4 days / Hiking / OH-01 +03 Villarrica traverse (West-bound?) / Natalie & Tomáš '''

We did not end up following the GPT but instead ended up doing the Villarrica Traverse (so options 01 and 03 of GPT and then some more). It was our last trip before flights back home so ending directly in Pucón made the most sense, just sad that our last hike wasn't actually on the GPT...

Thoughts: Really beautiful, surprisingly diverse and not as many people as expected. The busiest place was at Laguna Azul and the glacier lookout. We are both very happy to have walked it and since it was our last hike, it was a pleasure to be on trails that allowed one to reflect rather than think about the next step. Highlights were the ease of the trails, vistas, Araucaria sillouettes, a return to volcanic landscapes, the crater of Quetrupillan and the forest canopy.

Access: Bus from Curarrehue to Puesco leaves at 5pm, just once a day. It leaves from here;-39.36321, -71.58433 and is white and green. Probably easier to hitch as it only goes to Puesco (aka CONAF). It leaves Puesco to Curarrehue at 730am supposedly.

Description: The traverse is well documented and therefore I will only explain two different side trips. Note that if coming from Puesco the last section between Chinnay camping and the ski hill is scarce of water because most water available is recommended not to drink due to high levels of ash in the melting glacier. The two good sources are; estero aihue; 39.47713° S, 71.88582° W and Zanjón pino Huacho, which is actually just a tap over a bucket; 39.43604° S, 71.99502° W. There is also an app you can use to follow the traverse; https://villarricatraverse.cl/

Camping at Laguna Azul is crowded (in the minds of a GPT hiker) so one can camp on a different beach or up high in the trees on the south side of the lake. Wild camping is supposedly illegal but does not seem to apply for the section of the traverse between Chinnay and the ski resort, there are many bivy spots.

Side trips:
First side trip, Volcán Quetrupillan:
If one is doing the traverse and wants to summit Quetrupillan easily and quickly I recommend following the osm trail on the NW side of the summit, there is a good trail, however we both did something different. Tomáš was successful at making a traverse of the summit and I was not. From lake Azul we followed the GPT option03 until the base of the col where one goes straight up to the crater. I continued on the GPT trail and turned back ~2m from the true summit due to the terrible rock quality but at least the way to the crater was easy (if you are there know that the red dirt is soft and not that steep). Tomáš on the other hand went one ridge further south and was able to easily follow it up to the summit, traverse south on the summit and come down on the osm trail. He notes there were only two bits of simple scrambling but was still easy despite having his bag. After my failed attempt on the summit I just went straight down the West side of the mountain to hit the normal Villarrica traverse and met back up with Tomáš [November 2024: Tomáš'es version is now in OSM and also in our suggestions to the Track files].

Second side trip, glacier Pichillancahue to above "glacier mirrado" and back to normal trail (the route is on OSM):
When coming from Chinnay there is a very obvious trailhead for Glaciar Pichillancahue. Tomáš used this to make a small but high traverse to somewhere near Estero Aihue and therefore avoiding the last bit of road walking and elevation loss. I was lazy and hungry and opted to have lunch at the camping Pichillancahue instead which was a terrible decision because the water there was barely drinkable (ash and dirt) and Tomáš supposedly had nice clean water up top [November 2024: it is in OSM,though you do no want to follow it all the way going west; you want to stay higher and traverse a bit, it is included in our suggestions to track files].

If it wasn't for bad weather I think this traverse could be done easily in 3 days, even two if you are efficient. We took 4 because we had one morning of rain and were in no need of rushing and did the sidetrips. However it would have been nice to have one more free day to rent gear and try to climb Villarrica, but the information on whether or not the summit is open all the way to the top was very confusing. Locals told us it was closed but you could go up most of the way if you had gear but then again there was a mountain guide who said we could go, so it will be a mystery. We both would love to come back to this area with simple glacier gear and climb Villarrica and Lanin and also go back to Sollipulli to traverse its glacier. For now it will have to wait :).

* '''2023-Feb-02 t 2023-Feb-05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Quetrupillan + OH-01 / Yannic & Mirjam '''

Very beautiful and easy stage. We hitchhiked from Panguipulli to Liquine and then via option 16-B to the camp at Laguna Azul. Very pleasant path in the forest with a slow ascent.
We stayed at the lagoon for 2 days and made a day trip to the volcano. The trail was not always easy because of the strong wind and the occasional snowfields. East of option 16-03 there is another way marked on the map, a little more to the east could be good, because then you avoid the two big snowfields that you see at the top.

From Laguna Azul we continued via Laguna Blanca on the Villarica Traverse (Option 16-01) to Laguna Las Avutardas. The road is well maintained and the landscape after the second pass is fascinatingly different from the previous one. Very nice camping spot at the lagoon.
From the primary road we caught a car to Curarrehue and from there a bus to Pucon.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks & Gabi '''

Started in Catripulli and hichhiked to 16km of RR. We found it as a good solution to skip road walking as it is not so attractive. Remember to take enough water with you because on ascent to Laguna Blanca there is only one silty river. This part is not so hard unless the temperature is high and you are walking like us in the midday. Probably the ascent road is going to be worst cos they are destroying the trail to build a road ( most probably - it doesn't look nice and it's quite annoying )
There is quite a new gate with old sign on 18,5km ( it looks like entrance to some private propertie with seperate plots), it was open so we just walked through and we didn't meet anyone to ask.

Plateau is really amazing, worth seeing and there are a lots of tiny streams near Laguna Blanca with clean water.
At Laguna Azul there are a lot of tourists sleeping there.
Descent was plesent until the road started.
The entire trail is well visible.
Down there there is community of mapuche, they are really nice and talkative. There is a chance that when going NOBO or sleeping on their land you will have to ask about permission to go through but it shouldn't be a problem.
We hitchhiked with one of them last 3 km of RR.

* '''2023-Jan-27 to 2023-Jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Quetrupillan / Will '''

I also came in through Catripulli. I caught two quick rides but was still left with three hours of hot uphill road walking. If you aren't worried about connecting footsteps I bet you could find a better start/end point. The other hikers out there (on the Villarrica traverse) were mostly ending at Puesco, I heard rumors of a bus there. Sounds like a much better route if the bus exists. This is marked as option 1.

Coming out of the woods the alpine section was beautiful but short. I spent two nights at Laguna Azul, taking a side trip up Quetrupillan. There were a lot of fun snowfields to navigate. My new shoes were grippy enough to get me through easily even though I didn't bring my trekking poles. Most of the water was chalky.

The final scramble up to the summit (after reaching the snow filled crater) was treacherous. Might not be worth it. I went up around the right because it looked like a more gradual climb but I had a few big solid looking boulders come loose and tumble down. The route straight up seems better.

Laguna Azul was bustling, both nights I was camped with a few Europeans doing the Villarrica traverse. Met a crazy dutch couple biking it. I even heard that there were some people visiting by helicopter, before I showed up.

At the end I walked down to Liquiñe, lots of food places along the road. I camped at the Termas de Punulaf (decent, 15000 pesos) before continuing onto section 17H (highly recommended!).

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-24 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Anna & Christopher'''

Catripulli - Reyehueico
Short and easy section!

From Pucón we took a bus at 19:30 to Catripulli (Buses Currarehue, last one leaves at 21:00). From there we hitchhiked to km 18 of the RR. We camped next to Estero Huililco (silty water as the others mentioned).

The next accessible water source is the ford of Estero Huililco at km 23. The walking until the plateau is easy (dirt roads and good paths), no navigation issues at all.
Around Laguna Blanca there was still some clear water of the snowmelt. Here walking got a bit tougher due to the sand, but the plateau really is beautiful. After Laguna Blanca there is a good, visible path again until Laguna Azul. We camped at the Laguna and had the first rainy/stormy night.

Because of the bad weather we didn't climb the volcano the next day and went down directly. It's a good path the whole way. Around 4 km before Reyehueico we got a ride directly to Panguipulli :)

* '''2023-Jan-03 to 2023-Jan-05 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

Route: Catripulli - Laguna Blanca - Laguna Azul - summit of Volcán Quetrupillan - Reyehueico

I found this section beautiful, and quite easy, since most of the time you are on 4x4 tracks or well-maintained CONAF trails. No navigation issues whatsoever.

Pucón is a bustling hiking town, great place to get new gear/shoes and resupply. I stayed a few days at Chili Kiwi Hostel there, highly recommend! Buses from Pucón to Catripulli and Curarrehue are very frequent, I did not have to wait.

I started in Catripulli because the road walk is shorter from there. I was very lucky and ended up getting a ride (without even trying) up to the end of the gravel road beyond Rinconada, where a wooden gate marks the start of a lovely forest trail. As others have mentioned, Río Huililco is quite silty, and although the trail follows this river a while, I didn't collect any water there. The first night I camped at the treeline before the final climb to Laguna Blanca (before the start of the CC section). I found some good water in the ravine east of the trail, but it required some bushwhacking down a steep hill covered in vegetation.

The plateau up by Laguna Blanca is beautiful, there are multiple creeks feeding the lake — some of them are silty, but others are clear, just pure snowmelt. The cross-country section had a nice path running through most of it, so navigation was very easy. Between Laguna Blanca and Laguna Azul, there are still some snow patches, but they are easy to walk across or around.

I dropped most of my gear off at Laguna Azul to climb the volcano. I started around 11 a.m. and got back at 4 p.m., this included an almost hour-long break at the top to take in the spectacular views of Volcán Villarrica and Volcán Lanín. There's still a fair bit of snow on Quetrupillan, and instead of following the GPS I went up my own way to the rim, avoiding most of the snowfields. The crater is filled with snow, it's awesome! Coming back down, I half ran, half slid down a giant snow field, which was a lot of fun. That night I went for a swim and camped at Laguna Azul, a beautiful spot. For the first time on the GPT, there were other people (local tourists) camped with me there!

The rest of the trail down to Reyehueico is easy, downhill through a mature forest. Once you get to Trafún Chico, the trail becomes a gravel road. I was able to hitch the last couple kilometers to the main road, and get a ride to Panguipulli to resupply and head down to GPT19 after.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan-01 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + summit of Quetrupillan / Molly og Melissa '''

5 days - including a very short day due to bad weather
We were passed by a car on the gravel road shortly after Reyehueico. They told us that the place marked as camp on the GPS was closed, but we could camp on their land a little before on the place marked bridge. They wanted 5000 pesos per person, and there are no facilities, so we found it a little expensive but didn't want to discuss in the rain. They also sold us freshly baked bread which were huge and the best we have had so far, as well as sopaipillas. The gravel road here was pretty, but a lot of aggressive dogs who could easily crawl under their fences to follow us. We only had to climb one gate which seemed to be more to keep in cows than to keep out any hikers. At the waypoint gate there was nothing.
We camped right before the waypoint water before Laguna Azul.
At Laguna Azul there are two camp waypoints, the first is a little spot on the river bank, the second is the "real" camp with lots of spots in a little forest right next to the lake. It's nice, but there have been left a lot of garbage.

From there, you follow the Villarica traverse trail for some kilometres through very beautiful landscapes. When you reach the valley where Lago Blanco is (it really is white), you leave the trail for some fairly easy cross-country around the lake. On the far side, the whole valley was covered in water and we had to walk barefoot, but it was after three very rainy days.
Finding the path at treeline was a little difficult, but we just made sure to be right on the trail on the GPS and found it. Then followed a short trip through beautiful aucaria forest, followed by a gravel road. Here, we saw several "no entrar" signs meant for people going towards the national park, but there was no one around. We even asked for water while still in the no entrar-zone as we didn't know, and weren't told off. It was difficult to find a campsite, but at La Rinconada there was a house saying "Es bienvenido aquí", maybe you could ask there.
We accidentally walked to catripulli instead of currarehue as we missed the turn off and realized too late.

Water:
Until Laguna Azul, no problem. At Lago Blanco we didn't find any streams that weren't chalky, though we thought that some streams running down the mountain on the far right side might look better. We didn't investigate, though, as we thought we had enough. However, Estero Huilinco was the same, so we ended up asking at a house if we could get some water.

Summit:
We basecamped at Laguna Azul and followed the nicely marked trail up. Be aware that the summit route diverges after about a kilometre, with no trail to be seen. We followed the GPS for a while but decided to walk to the crater rim somewhere else, as the summit seemed more difficult and the height difference isn't that big anyway. The volcano itself looked a lot like Volcan Puyehue, but the views were different of course, and the crater had a lot more snow. It was great to spend an extra day above the treeline.

* '''2021-Dec-05 to 2021-Dec-07 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex Abramov '''

We made Villarrica Traverse here. This traverse is an excellent variant to go in (out) to (from) GPT.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Matthieu'''

From Liquiñe to Catripulli
Following the RR, I personnally never had to cross any barriers of barbed wire or closed portals. It is all an official CONAF trail.
I used Lago Azul as a base camp to do the ascent of the summit. Awesome place.
A little cheer to Ty, America and Sanita with who we had (I assume) the biggest GPT hikers camp of the year !

-The ascent:
Better use your head than your GPS, avoiding the snow to go up. The path I took was finally closed to the OH 002, going between the snow fields, but I never crossed any trail road.
The very end is quite steepy and the rocks easy to break, and you have to climb a little bit to arrive to the final cairn. Better do it with good weather conditions and without your big bag ! I wasnt confident with going down the same way, so at the cairn I just took directly west down the rocks and actually found a downhill of good sand, really easy to do, fast and safe. No climbing down this way. I joined my previous tracks after, near the OH 002.

-Water supply:
As Ty say, No water between the end of Lago Blanco and a little bit before the Estero Huililco. The track is easy and fast thow in the forest, and I didnt take more water supply going down.

I didnt do the final forest part just before Currarehue, hitchhiking to Catripulli.

* '''2020-Feb-27 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Catripulli Start & Optional end to Conaripe / Ty & America '''

We started at Catripulli because it was a bit shorter road walk compared to Curarrehue. Be aware of the big waterless start. You do have (mostly) friendly people on the road who are more than welcome to help with water. After Comunidad Rinconada (maps.me) don’t expect any water (besides the extremely chalky river water) all the way up to Laguna Blanco. Small Water falls on the right side of the lake have great clear water. We camped at Laguna Blanco by said falls a bit off the track file to find shelter from the wind. Then camped at Laguna azul the next day to summit the following morning. Beautiful place. Actual summit is sketchy, so we hiked to the rim and were perfectly content with that. I don’t recommend taking the optional OH-TL-V@16-02-#002 over the pass. It looked sketchy/snowy. The optional a bit further was perfectly fine. On the way down to conripe on OH-TL-V@16-02-#003 there is a good place to camp by water with plenty of wood ~1.5 km after the marked water source. We had luck hitching a ride from the termas at the bottom right to Conripe.

* '''2020-Feb-7 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

3 days for this amazing section. Trail in good condition, no navigation difficulties. At 39°23'11"S 71°37'48"W, where it says "se vende leña eucalyptus", we didn't climb the huge locked gate to our right but just continued the minor road. We passed two unlocked gates and got back to the regular route after 1km. Shortly afterwards we arrived at a high fence of seven strands of barbed wire, where we turned left into the forest, following an almost invisible path, and after 500m finally found a gate and got back to the regular route after 1km.

* '''2020-Feb-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

Came from GPT15, resupplied @ 2 supermarkets in Curarrehue. Going up from Curarrehue they are logging in the forest but track still clear. Went over the fence with 7 strands of barb wire. Later there is a wooden gate saying 'No Entry Residents Only' went over it onto track, no one around. When you cross the Estero Huilico fill up with water. You can wade it but if you go down on the left about 20 metres there is a footbridge hidden in the forest. Later you are near the river but it is in a gorge with dense vegetation so it's not accessible. Made a dry camp high up in the forest before the lakes. Hardly any snow left on the route.

Near the end of the route there is no place to camp at 'Camp 119' but continue a little down the road & there is a tiny field just before 'Bridge 51' where you can camp. Just before it the road goes round in a loop, on the lower part of the loop are two houses next to each other. Ask there if it's OK to camp by the bridge. Just after the bridge I continued straight to the main road (marked bus, shop) to resupply. However, it's not necessary to do that, if you continue on the RR you will find shops in Liquine.

* '''2019-Nov-13 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liquiñe to where the trail joins the S-947 / Sophie & Hendrik '''

We were 7 days on the trail, of which 2 were just camping out bad weather (23 walking hours) . First day we started late and went to what the first camp on the map. Next we went to the camp without water from the track files (We found some stream there. After filtering amd treading it with chloride we were able to drink it.) We stayed there one day, waiting for better weather. Next day we went to the Fort at Laguna Azul. However, we did not cross it until two days later, as we first waited for better weather conditions. Then we crossed the volcano and camped below the treeline on the other side. Last day we hiked to S-947 and hitchhiked to Pucón for some Food and a real bed.

What we liked: Sudden changes of landscapes, beautiful Araucaria forrest, remoteness (didn't meet people for 5 days), breathtaking views and scenes on the volcano, the snow was beautiful (obviously depends on the season), the many plushy chilean tarantulas on the north side.

What we did not like so much: The gravel roads on both ends of the section.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tom & Maddie'''

No issues, trail in good condition and cross country section is not hard to navigate. We took a bus out to Panguipulli at 08:00 on a weekday. We decided to skip 17 and 18. We then bussed to Los Lagos and then Futron and then to Rininahue. We then got a hitch back onto the regular route of 19 37km in. Less than 8hrs off the trail to skip 17/18.

* '''2020-Jan-31 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH-02 Start from Termas el Rincon (Conaripe) to Currarehue / Jean & Virginie'''

To start the option track (16-02) after el Rincon termas, we have to pass a gate closed but it was possible to pass on the left. We didnt see anyone inside.
After few kilometers on the minor road in good condition, we pass a small house where the guy explained us the track (turn on thé right at the arrow marked Laguna to get on the trail - track a little bit different from the gpt route but that join it further). After we went up on Quetrupillan volcano with amazing view. Trail in good condition and easy to navigate. This option join the regular route at the laguna Azul, nice site to camp. After the cross country section was not difficult to follow and the end until Currarehue was alternation of (a bit) overgrown trails and minor roads (+ some barbed wire).
Bus to Pucon every 20 min from Currarehue.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019-Nov-18 / Sophie & Hendrik'''

90% - 95% of the area from 1500m upwards are completely covered in snow. Think about snow shoes and be careful as there are melting streams covered and hidden by snow.
Also, unlike us, keep in mind that snow reflects the sun and can cause burns from below on your nose and chin.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Kara Davis'''

Follow the main road, 199-CH, south out of Curarrehue until the gravel road turn off, S-981. After several kilometers, the road transitions to single track through a eucalyptus forest. Be careful to not follow one of the several other tracks that wind through the forest. The trail exits onto a gravel road, S-947, that follows Estero Huilico. Turn off onto a 4WD track, but be aware there are several other 4WD track spurs. The trail narrows into an obvious single track as you enter Parque Nacional Villarrica. Be prepared for the possibility of snow during this section at higher elevations. At treeline the trail ends and the cross-country traverse begins.
This cross-country traverse follows the volcanic landscape at the base of Volcán Quetrupillán. During high snow years, Laguna Blanca may be frozen and snow covered. Be aware that snowpack may make parts of the GPS route difficult, and keep safety in mind when choosing a route. Instead of following the recommended route which ascends through a chute, snowpack forced us to climb up to a pass further to the left and then rejoin the route. Depending on the time of year, Laguna Azul may also be frozen, but water is available at the stream crossing at the southern end. After beginning the descent into the forest, try and find a well maintained trail. The trail joins a dirt road, T-447, which continues until the paved highway, 201-CH, to Carringue.
Town: Carriringue.
Carriringue is a tiny town with a small market which offers snacks but is difficult to resupply out of. There are also several signs advertising Cabañas.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Pucón:
About 30 minutes bus ride off trail. A hiking tourism town that has everything a hiker might need. Very good resupply option in Pucón if you're doing the Villarica Traverse option: República Granel. They have a big selection of dry foods like nuts, seeds, fruit, spices, etc. Really valuable for hikers and not too expensive!

*Catripulli:
A little down the road from Currarehue. Has two small shops which probably sell pastas and other basic stuff

*Currarehue:
You can rent a cabin for 50 000 pesos (ask at supermercado Katty) (February 2025 - Peggy)

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

Quentin : Currarehue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

You can buy bread and sopaipillas at the house right before the "bridge" waypoint just before Reyehueico.

A house in La Rinconada sells eggs

Some Aucaria trees

=Transport to and from Route=

2022-Jan:
Busses go from Panguipulli to Reyehueico on weekdays, and from Valdivia to Panguipulli (two hours bus ride) every day. Hitching was quite easy for us even though it was raining.

The bus from Currarehue through Catripulli to Pucón leaves approximately every 15 minutes on weekdays, and every 30 minutes on weekends - goes in both directions - about 30 minutes

(2020-Feb)

Bus Pucón - Curarrehue

Mo-Sa 11:00

Su 12:15

Operator Igi Llaima, Terminal, Palguín 550

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT16 - Volcán Quetrupillan]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172879.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Lanín]] from GPT16]]
[[File:Quetrupillan 01.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Quetrupillán]] from GPT16]]
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (1).jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 16]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226459.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226460.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226461.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226462.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226596.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173354.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172977.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173084.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226451.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT16 (Volcan Quetrupillan)

2026-03-30T21:13:43Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==
'''GPT 16 | 1/6-1/8| 3 day | O4 (Villarrica Traverse), O2, RR | Graham + Felix?!?'''

Absolute beauty section.
Uber to Pucon Ski Center, had to walk final kilometer. Couldn’t register cause too early, but workers at ski station helped me contact Park Ranger.
Midst and Fog to start the day. Trail marker?… I barely know her!
At around 5pm when I was starting to hit a block, I ran into Felix! First GPT hiker on the trail and I was estatic. We pushed the final 8km to Chinay together.
Despite heading different directions on the GPT, and having different section end goals, we were both headed to Laguna Azul. Saw lots of people on the trail, definitely a new feeling.
There is a really nice waterfall just before the final climb towards to Laguna Azul, highly recommend.
Laguna Azul—> Liquiñe was nice and calm. Though quite muddy. Also, just before gate on the left is one of the biggest trees I’ve ever seen.
Camping at Termas in town, 20k with great wifi, bathrooms, and Termas.
This section is quite nice.
'''2026-Feb-12 to 2026-Feb-15 / 3.5 days / Hiking / EABO / OH-4, OH-2, RR, Variant A, OH-1 / Emily'''

Beautiful section, easy and clear trail with frequent markers. I hiked with a friend, and while the section could easily be completed more quickly, we found it well worthwhile to take extra time to enjoy the vistas and forest. Recent trip reports reflect current conditions, not much to add.

At Border/Pass {16-01} [40.4/1788] I ascended the hill along the border. Highly recommend - an easy climb for great 270 views of the five volcanoes.

Camps
Night 1: -39.458210, -71.978402. Highly recommend, incredible sunset. Space for 1 tent in trees, with another spot around the corner (with small rock wall) and more potential spots 20m before to the left in a small depression. Estero Nilfe was near dry and opaque, however there was a clear flowing stream shortly before at -39.45496, -71.98198.

Night 2: -39.455667, -71.822334. Along a disused pull-out road, plenty of space and well-protected, next to small river. We checked out Chinay but as per previous reports, it appears semi-abandoned and had an odd vibe. If looking to camp here, follow the road along SOBO after the OSM marker, and you’ll come to a bridge and road. The following morning we passed a better camp spot with picnic table just after the CONAF office {16-04} [31.9/996].

Night 3: Lake, Camp [40.2/1597]. Several spots among the trees. Three other hikers camping here. Some trash around unfortunately.

* ''' GPT16 | 2026-02-05 to 2026-02-08 I 3 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: Option 4 (Villarrica Traverse) - Option 2 - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: I took an Uber to the Ski Center parking area (8.400 CLP). I forgot to ask the driver to stop at CONAF, but I had already bought the entrance ticket for Parque Nacional Villarrica Norte online the day before (11.000 CLP) - in the end it was never checked. I started hiking at about 10:00. Easy trail with very good views.
I camped at Estero Aihue, nice spot with clear water: -39.476814, -71.885906

Day 2: Easy trails, water available along the route. I registered at "Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay)". They did not ask for my entrance ticket. Camped near the waterfall: -39.511992, -71.750355

Day 3: I woke up at 03:30 due to strong wind. I had to secure my tent. The wind continued until morning. The campsite was actually very nice, but not recommended in windy conditions.
I planned to climb Volcán Quetrupillán, but the forecast announced heavy rain soon and I wanted to reach Puerto Fuy, so I skipped the ascent. I reached Laguna Azul before noon. No other people and no trash. I took a swim break. The rest of the trail was straightforward and I saw many interesting birds.
Planned campsite - Camp {16} [62.0/486] - appears to be private property. There is a fence and a locked gate, so I continued. I camped hete: -39.684141, -71.856855 . It's not a perfect spot, but at least hidden, near the MR next to a stream.

Day 4: In the morning my tent was completely wet from condensation. I was super lucky then, I only walked a few minutes , then a car passed and I could hitchhike all the way to Liquiñe. I had breakfast there and continued with Section 17.

Attractiveness: 5/5, Difficulty: 2/5

*'''2026-1-29 to 2024-2-1/ 4 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/opt 4, 2, RR, A, 1/Tomas Martinec'''

A beautiful section that is not too difficult and well marked. I really enjoyed the changing volcanic and forest landscapes.

Day 1
I tried to pre-arrange an Uber the night before, but the price was quite high (14,000 CLP). So I left it for the morning, and the price dropped to 9,500 CLP.
The Uber took me to the ski resort parking lot (39.3816607S, 71.9710225W). We couldn’t go any further because there was a barrier down. However, some cafeteria workers were driving by and kindly took me directly to the beginning of the Villarrica trail.
Be careful — after this water point (39.4358367S, 71.9954842W), the next reliable clean water source is about 15 km later at Estero Aihue.
Campspot: Pichillancahue (39.4685929S, 71.8576455W) – one spot on both sides of the bridge.

Day 2
I met a friendly CONAF worker in Chinay. He warned me that storms were expected from midday. About 100 m after Chinay, there is a nice campsite.
Next water point: 39.4716573S, 71.8263066W
The storm started at 11:00 and finished at 19:00. I stopped walking at 13:00 and waited at the edge of the forest. As I was wet and cold, I decided to set up my tent and stay there for the night.
Campspot: 39.4772464S, 71.8250824W (forest, no water — chosen because of the storm).

Day 3
Nice possible campsite: 39.5030120S, 71.7647070W
Other possible campspots without water:
39.4842887S, 71.8155280W (sheltered by stones)
39.4898674S, 71.7983452W
I had planned to climb Quetrupillán, but when I was passing by, the summit was covered in clouds. So I continued to Laguna Azul.
I had a beautiful night at Laguna Blanca — a really nice place to stay. The only downside was that the water was very still and didn’t look very clean.
Campspot: 39.5393546S, 71.6964447W

Day 4
A very nice walk. It was easy to see all the volcanoes. The trail ends in the forest. I think it’s big advantage to walk this final section with a lighter backpack.
Hitchhiking from Puesco to Currarehue.

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''2026-01-15 to 2026-01-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarica Traverse / OH 4, OH 3, OH 2, RR, OH A, OH 01 / Lucie Vrat'''<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>

This was my first GPT trail section, and it was absolutely amazing. I had perfect sunny weather, except for strong winds on the final hiking day.
As I went shortly after Greg, the information he provided still applies.

Day 1:
I took an Uber to the ski center for 8,200 CLP. The CONAF office was closed, so I did not register there (I had bought the national park entrance ticket online the day before). As there was no wind, I camped on the plateau about 1 km before Estero Aihue [24 km]— definitely a very nice place to spend the night and take water.

Day 2:
I descended to the CONAF station at Chinay and then continued up to Mirador Los Pinos. I slept cowboy-style at an unofficial spot shortly before Camp Estero Mocho [31.2 km] - another really nice place to stay with water.

Day 3:
I continued on OH-4 towards Laguna Azul and decided to climb the Quetrupillán crater since conditions were perfect OH 3 CC A. I left my large backpack hidden behind a rock. The upper section had some falling rocks but was not too complicated. The views from the top were stunning. On the way down, I crossed a few small snowfields, but they were easy to walk on. I finished the day camping at Laguna Azul, where I met two groups of Chileans who were also camping there.

Day 4:
I walked past Laguna Blanco and Laguna Las Avutardas all the way down to Puesco. The descent was quite tiring on the knees, and in the lower part of the trail I had to avoid or step over many fallen trees, but nothing major. Tabanos and cows were everywhere:) There is a cool café/restaurant right where the trail meets the road. I got a hitch to Curarrehue and then took a bus to Pucón for 2,000 CLP.

Overall: An easy and very attractive section A5/D3.

'''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-16/ 5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Options 4, 3, 2/ Greg Carter'''

Overall
The Villarrica Traverse is a wonderful hike with immersion in spectacular volcanic terrain, and beautiful Araucaria forests. Although the hike is well-known I saw only 2 other hikers.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1 (Monday)
I started from Villarrica early afternoon by taking an Uber to the parking for Centro de Ski, for CLP 10,000. On the way up there is a ranger station for registration. However it was closed so registration was not possible (the park is closed on Mondays). I prepaid an online entry pass (11,000 CLP) starting on Tuesday, but this was never checked.

The trailhead/ start of the GPT is approx 2km uphill on a dirt road from the car park. Despite the park being closed I was not stopped from starting the trail.

There are many streams with heavy volcanic sediment which would be difficult to filter. It’s best to bring sufficient water for at least the first 10km (from the carpark) to the spring/ water point described below (**which may not be reliable later in summer**).

I camped at a major trail intersection here (-39.43578, -71.99362), close to a signed water point (-39.43583, -71.99545) fed by a spring, connected by a hose to a tap and water trough.

Day 2
Hiked to camp at Pichillancahue campsite (-39.46838, -71.85740). Note there is a no camping sign. Whilst there is a river here the water has volcanic sediment which I filtered after straining through a fine cloth.

Along the way there is a small clear lake and a good camping site at -39.44683, -71.98701.

Further along the only other good source of clean water is the Estero Aihue at -39.47765, -71.88646. I highly recommend you fill up here. This is also a good camping spot.

Day 3
Hiked to camp 3 (-39.51371, -71.75336) at the intersection with Option 3, where there is a good clear stream. There is also a fairly big waterfall nearby, and possibly a flat area for camping above it, which I saw from above but did not investigate.

Early in the day the rangers at Chinay {16-04} [31.9/996] required registration but did not check my pass. Shortly after the ranger station, where the trail turns to the right, there is a good stream to fill up. The trail then climbs steadily through Araucaria forest to reveal increasingly better views of Volcán Villarrica. On the way up there is a good flowing spring (signed, 20m downhill from the trail) at -39.47179, -71.82628.

Above the treeline there is an easy path to a scenic pass, followed by a spectacular ridge walk, with views of Volcáns Villarrica, Quetrupillan and Lanín.

Day 4
Hiked Option 3 to the N/S intersection, left my main pack and climbed Volcán Quetrupillan. This was a little challenging, as it required skirting several snow fields on the GPT route. However micro-spikes were not necessary. Some careful scrambling is required (due to loose rock and scree) to gain/ descend the summit ridge, and to climb/ descend the summit itself. There were amazing views from the top, including Laguna Azul, and Volcáns Villarrica and Lanín.

Afterwards I intended to continue east to connect with Option 1 (Rio Trancura), but I accidentally fell over when I wasn’t concentrating and broke a pole soon after setting off (insert expletive!). I repaired the pole but decided it was best to return to Pucón (to buy new poles) by the easiest route, which was Options 3 and 2. That night I camped at -39.52414, -71.80216, on a disused side road, uphill from a bridge with a good flowing stream.

Day 5
I hiked out on Option 2, which is an easy dirt track. At -39.51765 -71.83974 there is a big double gate system (?!) just before a bridge over a running stream. I found a gap where there is a missing fence post on the right hand side (facing west), which I squeezed my pack and myself through. It would be very difficult to climb over the second gate.

I then hiked to the road at Termas El Rincón, where I hitched almost immediately to Coñaripe. Then I caught 2 local buses, first to Villarrica, then to Pucón, (from memory) for CLP 2,300 and CLP 1,500, respectively.

I understand that the Termas El Rincon has wifi if you need it.

''' GPT16/ 2025-12-31 to 2026-1-1/2 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert'''

Stayed in Currarehue for two nights in Maxmafram cabañas for 40000 pesos for night. Bought gas in ferretería close to the bridge. First night we slept next to Laguna Blanca. No problems all the way.

*''' 2025.23.12 to 2025.25.12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 4 (Villarica Traverse) + Opt. 2 + RR / Kris and Stiina, Alex and Tim, Bailey'''

Day 1 - Morning transfer from Pucón to Ski center parking lot with Hans.
His site: travelaid.cl and phone nr. +56 9 7744 6664
Passing the ranger station 8am there was nobody there to check us in, but Hans managed to do it on his way back.
We were 5 GPT hikers together which is quite unusual for the GPT but a nice change once in a while to have it a bit more social on this otherwise very solitary trail.

We drove through the cloud and could appreciate the Volcán Villarrica and some sunshine as we set off. But as the day progressed it got more overcast and cold once again, especially in the windier places.
Does it seem to be a bit more rainy and cold summer this year?
Due to ample amounts of rain the days prior, water was not an issue.
A well established straightforward trail all the way.
We camped here: -39.46092, -71.83637 about 2km before Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay).

Day 2 - Despite there being no rain in the forecast the day was rainy, cold and miserable at times.
We stopped by the park ranger in the morning for a toilet break. He asked if we are all good and we had to write down our names.
Most of the day we spent in a cloud without any views. The ridge before the plateau was pretty cold with the rain on the open bits, but luckily there were also plenty of bushes for wind shelter along it.
Once we got to the plateau of Volcán Quatrupillán and joined the Option 2 the weather improved a bit but we were still in a cloud until the Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924].
After that the cloud lifted a bit and the views improved.
As we got to our planned camp by Laguna Azul the weather kept improving and later in the afternoon even the sun came out so we could dry all of our wet stuff. The camp was nice and sheltered from the wind. Some trash here and there especially where everyone went for the toilet but not too bad. Water in the lake was clear and not too cold.

Day 3 - The sun was finally back and it was warm once again. Alex an his son Tim departed in a different direction. Bailey took off while me and Stiina were still faffing around getting ready and we only saw him again in the evening when we camped together again.
Don’t expect any road to appear here: Road End {16} [44.6/1288]. It does start but later and for us was it was very muddy due to all the recent rain.
No bridge here: Settlement, Bridge {16} [58.5/440] (Huichahue), it seems to have collapsed. There is a log across that might be tricky when wet, but we managed fine otherwise ford seemed easy.
We got a hitch to Liquine from around: Camp {16} [62.0/486] which pretty much seemed where the road got really dull and boring. We drove along the road - variant B
There is a gate here: -39.69204, -71.85995 but Bailey said he could open it and walked through without any issues.
Since it was 25th of December we were lucky that a few shops were still open, but unfortunately everything else was closed, no restaurants or cafes for us.
After some refreshments we continued on to section 17…

(Continued in section 17)

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-06 to 2025-12-12 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO / OH4 (extra stop Pucon) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle & Sander'''
As our first hike in Chile we incredibly enjoyed the vulcanic landscape and the Auracaria/Nothofagus forests. Because of bad weather, a problem with our gps and food we made an extra stop in between. All trails very clear, just some remarks that might be of use to others:
+ We camped our second night next to the Rio Llancahue (OH4) which was grey from erosion of vulcanic rocks but was clear in the morning and easily went through our water filter.
+ we walked down OH2 to Coñaripe, but the trail after Termas Geometricas has a big sign ‘forbidden entry’. Two men from the Termas told us it’s private property and didn’t let us go and we took the road back. It seems the development of more Termas and Cabañas has made it more difficult. So we changed plans, stayed on the mountain and are camping at El Ranchi de Palito, 20k two people, there’s no one else and it is pouring rain so he let us stay in some kind of common room with a fire place, electricity and WiFi. Very kind! Also serves food.
+ Many cool flowering plant species now up on the vulcanic plateau. Also, on the villarica traverse we met two people shooting drone footage for a new BBC documentary called Home and it is coming out in a few years. It’s about a top secret animal, but we’re guessing it starts with a P and ends with uma.

* '''2025-12-04 to 2025-12-09 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO (east, then south) / Villarica Traverse + RR / Michel & Lisa'''

Day 1

Had a late start since someone (not gonna tell you who xD) lost their spork and so we had to wait until the outdoor Stores in town opened at 10.
Paid the entry fee for Villarica sector norte in advance online (10200CLP pp). Took a taxi up to the Centro de ski, although our taxi driver was hesitant at first due to bad road conditions he eventually agreed to take us up for 18000CLP. The road was fine and there were no problems at all in his standard sedan with 700'000km on it. Stopped at the CONAF office en route (not the center de visitantes) and registered - pretty straight forward. Show your proof of payment, get a tag for onto your backpack (so guarda parques can see you've registered for the Villarica Traverse) and write down your name and contact info in the list.
At the centro de ski we had to walk the first ~1.5 km to the start of the trail (i.e. where the track file starts as well). From there it's pretty easy walking on a well maintained trail. Only got as far as lagunitas XYZ where we camped (-39.44708, -71.98718). Water is clear but lots of algae growth in the lower of the two.
There was no water whatsoever between the centro de ski and this place (-39.43584, -71.99550) that is shown as a source of water on the OSM map as well (the lack of water surprised us somewhat as we are early in the season and had expected meltwater to result in some water availability). However, if you read the last entry about the traverse, there can be more water.

Day 2

Had a slow morning and late start, enjoying the calm and quiet in the forest close to the beautiful laguito. Filtered some water from the lagunita and treated it with micropur tablets on top, just to be sure. Turned out to be fine that way.
Estero Ñilfe had really grey water, just like 6 years ago when I was last here. Back then we drank it and were okay but I was glad not having to drink it again. Would definitely avoid that if you can. Then it was really sunny and dry for a while. The next water we found was Estero Tralco which was almost equally grey and therefore not good for drinking, though probably also not deadly. Continued all the way to Estero Aihue where the water is crystal clear and really cold (7 °C). Found a not really level campspot closeby, if you search longer you might be able to find something better. The ground is mostly pretty soft so we put rocks on all tent pegs. Lots of fine dust that gets everywhere which was a bit annoying. But the views are stunning here so it's worth it!

Day 3

Woke up to an almost full moon just above Volcán Villarrica and a calm, cloudless sunrise. People in the valley must have missed it due to the cloud cover visible from up here. :P
Next water source was at Río Pichillancahue (Llancahue on my map [-39.46842, -71.85767]). Shortly after that the trail joins a dirt road. We checked out the Chinay (marked as China on my map, lol) Camping [-39.45935, -71.82974] that turned out to be an abandoned camping with huts and lots of defunct infrastructure. Weird. We continued to the guardaparque [km 31.9] where there was nobody. Continued along the road until the trail turns off again, walked it for about 5 minutes where we found a wonderful camp [-39.45839, -71.81611] just next to the river. Sun, shade, water, it has it all! B-) only the tábanos are a bit of a lastima.

Day 4

Started earlyish to do as much in the shade as possible, which turned out to be a good idea. Water at [-39.46171, -71.82039] where one could also camp (but I wouldn't recommend it, it's dark and completely forested) and at [-39.47165, -71.82632] where you should definitely fill up. Then nothing until the end of the forest at [-39.50218, -71.76623] where there's a small stream and a couple of camping possibilities with reasonably flat ground. We continued on until [-39.51272, -71.75385] where we camped on nice flat ground next to the trail. A pretty tough day with our heavy backpacks but the views up here are again amazing! The area here with a few meandering streams is really beautiful. The only downside today were the tábanos everywhere and the extreme heat.
We apologize for all the dead tábanos en route and confess we had a little competition going on. If you find a few dead ones on the ground, it'll be a spot where we had a break (of which there were plenty). Lisa won 47 to 36, if you were curious. xD
------
Well. It seems mother nature, karma or whoever was not happy with the trail of dead tabanos we left behind. At least if you believe in this kind of stuff. Just after sunset a group of 7-8 bulls showed up and mooed loudly, walked in our direction. They seemed to have lost a buddy of theirs and we were kind of on their trail. Or they were curious or both. Anyways, some of them came really close and they were absolutely massive, which both scared us, especially since they were very vocal as well. After a while they continued on over the hill and we thought they had left, but they came back after about 10 minutes and so we decided to pack our stuff together and left in a hurry, back over the creek and to a slightly less flat camp spot with no grass [-39.51135, -71.75112] where we thought they wouldn't follow us. At least that was true. But then a gust pulled out one of the tent pegs in the middle of the night and our air mattress had a puncture. So... Not a great night! >:~|

Day 5

We woke up to a somewhat cloudy sky and stronger winds. After packing up we hiked to Laguna Azul which is really pretty, especially seen from the pass above. Great spot for a break. The camp at the laguna is really a bit dirty (trash, pots and pans left there) and smelled of fish so we didn't stop for long. If you want to stop there, continue to the ford where there's nobody and it's not dirty/trashy at all. We continued, joining the RR of the GPT which first is a trail and later develops into an abandoned road. Many a fallen tree on the trail/road which have to be climbed or walked around. The trail/road is frequented by dirt bikes so there's always a pretty good trail. I'm not sure what Road end [44.6/1288] wants to indicate as the road only starts much further down, where the RR actually becomes MR, i.e. X [49.6/997]. There are lots and lots of really good camp spots along the MR, not just where it's indicated [52.2/794]. But they're all without water access. We decided to search for an option with water and finally found a place which had a really nice flat grassy spot: [-39.631233, -71.834371]. It looks like it's used as pasture for cows, but there were none present when we were there (yay, if you read about our experience the night before). You can walk down an old, unused road towards a broken bridge (about 500m, maybe 5-10 min) where there's access to the river. The river is rather difficult to access since its banks are steep (everywhere, not just at this spot). But at the bridge it's possible, if slightly complicated. If you don't feel comfortable climbing down over some fallen trees and rocks to the water, this might not be your spot. We quite liked it. The punctured mattress was fixed in little time, shining a headlamp through it from behind while checking the front really helps to find small punctures! There was a big thunderstorm at night which kept us awake again, at times it got pretty close (600m?) but mostly stayed up in the mountains.

Day 6

After another night of bad sleep thanks to the thunderstorm, we skipped breakfast in order to get going soon. Just before reaching the settlement [58.5/440] we had to cross a deep trench (about 2-3 m deep, 2-3 m wide) that cut through the road and there was only a wooden plank which was a bit scary to cross over. You might find a way around the trench though. The river after we had to ford, the bridge seems to be gone.
After the settlements came rather boring road walking and we were happy to be picked up by a local who drove us all the way to the road towards Liquiñe. We went to the shop across the road [66.4/237] which had a nice selection (even some veggies!) and stocked up for 17P.

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-04-22 to 2025-04-29/ 6 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse Route from Pucón to Carirriñe Bajo. Ben &Stephanie

Spectacular alpine hiking around Volcáns Villarrica and Quetrupillán, then descend through aracharia forest where pinions are harvested.

We had to cut this stage short due to slow progress hiking in recent snow down to 1000m and rerouted southbound on the RR when the next storm arrived at Lago Azul. Useful tip if you anticipate a lot of snow: bring ice spikes/ultralight crampons -- we purchased some at Volcanica in Pucon, a very comprehensive outdoor gear store. Also: the highest snow accumulation is on Volcan Villarica and stays longer on the south sides of all the slopes. Melting snow means water was always near.

*'''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-13 / 3.5 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse (OH 04 + OH 02 + RR + OH A + OH 01) / MiaimZelt'''

Summary: Very pleasant stage with nice trails, posing no real difficulties. Didn't met a lot of people.

Day 1: Took a Uber for 10k to the Centro de Ski. It was raining and it's necessary to walk the last 2km to the beginning of the starting point of the trail. Started on monday, although the NP Villarica us officially closed. Prepaid the fee online for tuesday.
Trail was very easy, but the first 3 hours were hard because of rain and the cold. Camping options for example here: -39.435913, -71.993726 and -39.447416, -71.987115 (sheltered). Camped here exposed but with brilliant views: -39.472071, -71.957839. Water was easy to find, but don't take it from Ñilfe - very dirty. The small streams were the best. Met only one guy on horseback.

Day 2: Sunny wether all day long. Again easy hiking, met a group on the way down. Water at Río Pichillancahue was clean. Needed to register at CONAF Sector Quetrupillán and showed my payment. Take water before ascending, the next sourse comes here: -39.471659, -71.826306. The next 3 hours i didn't see water before this point: -39.503012, -71.764707. Camped there at the last possibility with shelter from the wind before Laguna Azul.

Day 3: Sunny, but very windy. Great views at Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924]. Hiked CC until i could see the milky lagoon nearby. At Laguna Azul i met local people camping and fishing with campfire at this spot. He gave me Piñones but asked strange questions, prefered to carry on. Ford {16} [36.6/1652] was posible dry feet. Water was greyish, better take from the small stream directly after the small pass before Laguna Blanca. Laguna Blanca was incredible! Camped near Lake, Camp {16-01} [33.6/1456], but wasn't the best choice because of tons of condensation. It's better to camp in the forest.

Day 4: The next km had a lot of fallen trees - very often it's necessary to walk around or climb over them, but always doable. Came across some streams. Hiked on the trail until Sector Puesco Park Ranger {16-01} [22.8/731]. Here i had to sign again and waited to get a hitch. Lot's of cars, but it took some time until someone stopped.

*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 /4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH02 + OH04 (villarica Traverse) / Chloe and Mathieu

We took the bus from Valdivia to Coñaripe at 2:2PM and slept there at the Küñul Pukuñil campground, really nice owner and 8000p per person.

Day 1 : we hitchhiked up to "settlement, shop{16}[66.5/237] and started walking from there. Gravel road easy to walk. We pitched our tent at the camp without water 52.3 but there are many places all around to camp. Good water spot at 51.1.

Day 2 : we walked up to Laguna Azul, easy trail in the bamboo and Araucarias forest. Then we took option 2, still some snow at the pass but easy to cross. We camped at S 39° 30.550', W 071° 45.530'. Lovely spot with water.

Day 3: the route up to the park ranger 31.9 is easy but no water in between. We refill there. Then we walked on the option 04 where there are no much water. Water from Rio Llancahue is dirty. The next clean water was at Estero Aihue (S 39° 28.618', W 071° 53.171') where we camped.

Day 4 : we continued until Villarica ski station. No clean water all along, hopefully we had enough water for the whole day. No public transportation at the station so we hitchhiked up to Pucon.

* '''2025-02-13 to 2025-02-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Vulcan Villarica+OH4+OH2+RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: After finishing stage 15, I took a micro from Curarreuhe to Pucón. I have found a good hostel, Raiz, for 15000 clp in a room of 6 persons, but you need to pay cash to avoid IVA. In Pucón, I bought shoes, but only for men. For women, there is no big choice. It is a very touristic place. I have decided to make a volcán Villa Rica with an agency. When I was buying shoes, a woman said to me that she was trying alone (she is from Pucón) and paid "multa". I paid 150.000 clp. The price includes full equipment (shoes, icepeak, crampones, jacket, trousers, gaiters, gloves, casque, backpack, mask, parque fee, and transport and equipment for sliding down it). They took my backpack, so after that, I could start Travesía Villarica from the Ski station in Pucón. Important: the ranger said to me that Puesco is closed because of a fire. I took water from "banos" near the Ski station and made camp at km 1 of OH4.

Day 2:
Continued Travesía, very spectacular views of volcanoes and valleys. I did not have problems with water, but very often it was dirty. In the forest trail, it was clear.
Water:
6.5 km Zanjón Vaipoi - dirty
12 km Estero - dirty
16 km clean water
Camp at km 26 - Río Pichillanchahue. Place for one tent.

Day 3:
I met two people from Czechia. They went from Nobo. The The Ranger had not allowed them to go to Laguna Azul. Then I met a family from Chile who were doing Travesía from Puesco. They bought tickets before closing Puesco, so they were allowed to start from there. The The Ranger was very polite. I was not registered officially on the trail. But when I was doing Volcan Villarica with an agency ranger who was there, he took my datos and made me a photo, so the ranger at point 31.9 km knew me. Of course, it is not standard:) After 31.9 km, the trail was going up significantly. In the forest, the trail was clear. I took water at km 36.5, then till km 42, there was no water. After the trail was following a ridge with views and then again, no views. I camped at km 43 in the place where there is a table "Mirador of Quetropillán". Water was near. It was an amazing place. There was no wind but very cold.

Day 4:
On the km of 44.5 of option OH4, I joined option OH2. In the morning, at the height of 1800 m n.p.m. small streams were frozen. After passing there, there were some patches of snow very easy to pass. Laguna Azul espectacular, but I have met people on motocross there. Here I joined variant RR (km 40.2). Ford near Laguna was very easy to cross. In the forest trail, it was clear, sometimes I needed to go around fallen trees. At km 59.9, near a destroyed bridge, there was something like a bridge, but I crossed the river a few meters after, in the deepest place, the water level was to the knee of my height ( 1.64).
Then till the village Reyehueico, there was no place for a tent. In the shop of the village, there were a lot of things to buy. I asked the owner to put my tent in his garden. He agreed. He gave me a table and I had water. He allowed me also to take my dog, who followed me. The dog was sleeping in my tent.

* '''2025-02-07 to 2025-02-11 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH 04 (Villarica Traverse), OH 03 (Volcán Quetrupillán), OH 02, RR / Peggy

I started from Molco, where I had spent the night, following a trail along the Río Correntoso (note: this river is dry). It took me about 3-4 hours to reach the ski station.

Villarica Traverse

I really enjoyed this traverse. The first part alternates between lava fields and forests, offering beautiful views of Villarica. Be mindful of water sources—rivers in the first kilometers are dry. The first water source I found was at -39.42548, -71.98709, but the water was whitish and carried volcanic sediments. A better water source was available from a faucet at km 36.3.

There's a beautiful forest section before reaching the park ranger station (31.9/996). Afterward, the trail climbs through a stunning forest of araucarias and other trees I couldn't identify. There are two notable water sources:

Km 24.1, which appears on maps (Locus and others).

-39.288052, -071.492708, where a small spring is located. This spot is also a great place to camp if there's no wind, with a breathtaking view of Villarica. This water source isn't marked on maps but was indicated by the park ranger.

Volcán Quetrupillán

The OH 03 connecting to the volcano is marked as CC but is quite manageable. There was still a lot of snow on the ascent, making it pleasant and easier to climb. The summit offers incredible views of the crater and surrounding volcanoes (Villarica, Lanín, Mocho, and Choshuenco).

There are two routes to the top. I first followed the GPT route to the crater, but when I tried to climb higher, I stopped due to a steep, slippery section that made me uncomfortable. On the way down, I decided to try the other route (further left) and managed to reach the highest point, crossing snowfields and finishing with a steep, rocky slope.

I camped by a beautiful green lake on my way down toward Laguna Azul, but I barely slept because of the strong wind. Thankfully, my tent held up!

The next day was spectacular—I was completely alone. Even at Laguna Azul, where there's an excellent, wind-sheltered campsite, I saw no one. Laguna Blanca was absolutely stunning! A must-see!

Descent to Curarrehue

I followed the RR down to Curarrehue. I camped near the Estero Huililco on private property, being respectful of the place (as always, of course).

From -39.238782, -71.394307, there are several gates and enclosures to pass through, but the path remains accessible. A local man told me that the trail the track follows had been closed by "los indígenas", and he wasn’t sure if it was still passable. However, I had no issues. Just follow the GPS track carefully at intersections.

* '''2025-01-28 to 2025-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1, RR, Option 3 (Quetrupillan ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

We came by a bus Temuco 8am - Curarrehue ~11am. From there we easily hitch hiked to Puesco/Mirador (beginning of OH1 SOBO).
Day 1 afternoon: mirador to Laguna Arguntas. The path is generally very well marked. A couple of fallen trees on the path and we encountered several groups of cows. Almost not disturb by tabanos.
We stoped to camp on the west side of Laguna Arguntas where we camped. Tabanos were quite present until sunset. Better camp with water and view on Lanin 150m above.
We regularly found water al along option 1 until we reached the volcanic plateau, and last melted snow water at -39,56982 -71,682110
Day 2: Laguna Arguntas > RR to Laguna blanca and then Laguna Azul > Quetrupillan ascent where we camped at -39,49878 -71,72278 on the ridge (amazing sunset, stars and sunrise views, totally worth it if the weather is good).
Amazing and scenic views on the plateau, we highly recomand to hike up from the Laguna Azul at least until -39,53391 -71,73845.
End of Quetrupillan ascent following GPT track was easy given the afternoon melted snow. You can also pass by by the west of the summit and ascent by the more used NW path.
Day 3: Way down from Quetrupillan summit to the broken bridge at 58,6km following RR (very good camp site before the broken bridge).
Easy path, beautiful first part through araucaria forest, the rest through regular forest.
Day 4 morning: minor road during 10km (worth hitchhiking) until the crossing with 201.
We walked to Quilimo camping for the packrafting section 17P through rio Cua Cua.

* '''2025-01-22 to 2025-01-25 / 3 days / villaria traverse middle part hiking in-out / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)

We did a 3 day trek starting at fundo porvenir (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where we paid 15000CLP to leave our rental car with the very hospitable farmers (there is also a little campsite here with them). We did not buy a national park ticket and as expected we did not meet any ranger. We did only meet 4 small hiking groups during those 3 days.
We hiked up to the saddle between Villarica and Quetrupillan where we set up camp at (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where there is still melting water from snow fields on Quetrupillan. A lot of fallen trees in the hike up via Estero Mocho.
From there we hiked up and back to Laguna Las Avutardas. Still some snow fields to cross above 1700m.
We hiked down via the alternative exit from the summit route of Quetrupillan.

* '''2025-01-09 to 2025-01-11 / 2.5 days / NOBO / RR / Mara and Tobias

Day 1 - walked 7.3 km from the Settlement, Shop {16} [66.5/237] to Bridge {16} [58.6/440] where we camped. Easy roadwalking, 2 hours. Day 2 - walked 24 km to Laguna Azul without difficulties. The trail is in a good condition, since people with motorbikes cross the park illegally. There were 6 other persons on the camping. Very beautiful spot. Day 3 - 32 km to Catripulli. Last Kilometres we got a lift. I sank up to my knees in the mud at Laguna Blanca. Watch your steps! We count 8 people on motorcycles that day. There are several Conaf signs indicating that motorcycles are illegal in the national park. Anyway, it was a nice section with various vulcanic rock formations, stunning views and beautiful araucarian forests!

* ''' 2025-JAN-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 16-A > RR > 16-02 > 16-03 > 16-02 > 16-02A > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : oui beaucoup
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : gouffres sur le sentier

J'ai fait quelques achats a Curarrehue. La montée se fait bien même si certaines clôtures ne sont pas facile a passer. Il y a un ford au point (39.470744° S 71.631158° W). Il n'y a pas autant de point d'eau que d'habitude, et moi qui aime marcher sans eau, c'etait parfois limite. Il y a encore beaucoup de neige dès 1600m. Je campe au lac a 1830m et il est en grande partie glacé et recouvert de neige.
Volcan Quetrupillan facile car beaucoup de neige ce qui evite les pierriers, puis grande boucle dans la forêt. Il y a de l'eau mais l'accès est difficile. Quasiment tout le chemin est en bon état, même si des moto-cross et des quad sont passés et l'ont abimés. Il y a des gouffres sur le chemin. Au km 58,6 le pont est detruit. Un arbre couché par les locaux permet de passer.

'''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / Eastbound / OH04, OH02, RR, OH01 / Sean & Neele'''

TLDR - Had to pay entrance fee and was checked by a ranger in day 2, plenty of water at this time of year due to snow melt, still some snow patches but not a problem at all.

Got an uber to the ski resort. A ranger stopped our uber and made us pay 10k each entrance fee.

Camped at 22.1km

Park ranger 31.9km - no one here but met a ranger further up the climb

34.6km - met a ranger clearing the trail. He checked we'd paid entry.

36.3km - last water until 42.8km. Trail is a bit overgrown/lots of blow downs between these two.

Camped at 42.8km

Took option 2 to Laguna azul patches of snow around pass 2.5km but all manageable.

RR Ford 36.6km just a stream at this point dry feet crossing.

Took variant A - water on this section at the moment.

Option 01 - passes 40.4km and 39.1km little snow patches but never a problem.

Camped at the lake 33.6km

We got a hitch from CONAF Puesco to Curarrehue in about half an hour and took the bus from there to Pucon.

*'''2025-JAN-02 to 2025-JAN-04 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This tranquil section of the trail offers stunning highlights, including the plateau beneath Volcán Quetrupillán, featuring a two lakes and breathtaking views of Volcán Lanín.

Between kilometer 6 and the bridge at [14.3/500], there are several gates you’ll need to climb over. At the settlement near this bridge, locals kindly allowed us to refill our water from their tap. Note that at coordinates -39.4708371, -71.6312554, there is a ford that is not marked on the track files.

While ascending through the forest, we encountered many cyclists going down the trail on mountain bikes. Once above the tree line, the landscape changed dramatically, revealing the majestic Volcán Lanín. On the plateau, patches of snow still covered several hundred meters of the trail in some areas.

The first ford in the Los Ríos region [36.6/1652] can be crossed dry-footed by stepping on rocks. From the crystal-clear Laguna Azul, we descended again into the forest, largely dominated by araucaria trees.

A great camping spot can be found just past the gate at [51.8/805]. Note that the old bridge at [58.6/440] no longer exists. However, a temporary log bridge has been installed, allowing for a safe crossing of the river.

21-12-21- 24-12-24/ 4 days / WEBO / OH01, RR, OH03, OH04/ Volker

Day 0: I went for cherrypicking and skipped gpt13-15. Bus at Liucura (end of gpt12) to Victoria at 7 a.m., direct connection to Temuco and from there to Pucon. Pucon is very touristic, I didn‘t like it and continued to Currarehue - nice town, everything for resupply, I recommend Hostal Quechupehuen (25k with breakfast)

Day 1: Very good weather forecast for 2 days. So instead of the long RR I took OH01 from Puesco (few cars on the road this morning, a local offered to give me a ride for 10k, fair offer). He would have brought me to the point, where OH01 leaves the PR, but I got out at the entrance of the Nationl Park. I think it‘s fair to pay the entrance fee (10k), untouched nature has a value. You don‘t have to walk along the PR, go 500 m to the east and you will find a path, that brings you to OH01 at S 39.549907° W 71.576084°.
Relaxed walk to Laguna Las Avutardas (many broken trees on the last 2 km). On the way to the pass first 1/3 swamp, 1/3 snowfields, later most parts of the trail covered by snow (flushy in the afternoon). Very, very scenic, most impressive section after many very beautiful others) Camped 1km before Laguna Blanca.
Day 2: Started early and left the RR at the ford at 36,6 (few water, snow bridges, take care) to go CC on the snow (99%} in the direction of Quatrepillan. Joined OH03 at S 39.502659° W 71.730390° and left my backpack there. While I was approaching the summit, the sun had melted the surface of the snow, what alllowed for a secure ascent to the summit on the steep slope with mini-spikes (last 200m some easy rock climbing). No clouds, no wind, stayed more than an hour on the Seat of the Gods. Back on OH03, , then OH04 (Villarica Traverse). Camped at a protected place on the ridge before the trail starts to go down to the ranger station.
Day 3: From 1750m down to 1050m (no Ranger there), up to 1250m, down to 1150m, up to 1500m. After leaving the forest zone very easy and scenic. Camped at S 39.459022° W 71.978801°
Someone should explore, if it‘s possible to follow the „Panorama Route“ (Conaf signs and on the OSM) and from the point, where this trail touches the glacier of Volcan Villarica go CC downhill to rejoin OH04.

Day 4: Tried to get to the Villarica summit. The southern side is less steep than all others, but local hikers had told me, there are many cleavages, moreover you see a bergschrund from below. Instead of going to the ski station (down from 1600m to 1400 + the ups and downs, I left my backpack at S 39.454841° W 71.982446° and went CC. The plan was a traverse to join the normal route from the ski station at around 2400 m. But when I arrived at the first snowfields at around 1800m it turned out, that even at 11 a.m. the snow was very hard. Just impossible without crampons. So I went back to my backpack and completed OH04. No summit, but very scenic, saw a puma. Lots of people at the ski station, many organised tours to the summit, all with complete equipment (crampons, ice peak and helmet). Hitchhiked down to Pucon.

* '''22Dec2024 - 27dec2024 / hiking / OH4 - OH3 - OH2 - RR - varA - OH1 (Villarrica traverse + summit quetrupillan) / 4,5 days / Clara'''

From Pucon, took uber in the afternoon to get to pucon ski station. 10k. Didn't stop at conaf so didn't pay anything.

Camp :
- -39.42611,-7198716. (Zanjón Voipir). Close to good water flowing. Nice spot with great views, almost flat spot on confortable soft sand.
- estero aihue (-39.47717,-71.88487). So nice spot with view on 3 volcanoes : villarrica, mocho y lanin. Incredible sunset.
- end of OH1, just under quetrupillan. Crazy high wind comming during the night that broke one of my tent pole. Better to find a wind protected spot, even if sunset up there was incredible.
- laguna azul : a paradise with shade, beach around the lake, can swim, really nice camp.

So nice traverse with great views all along.

No navigation issues even if the trail is a bit overgrown between 34 and 42km on OH4 and even more when descending on OH1 on kms before and after laguna las avutardas. Often slowing down.

No one at the conaf quetrupillan as it was Christmas.

Snow : few patches but nothing problematic. On quetrupillan volcan, was possible without spikes during morning (snow not too strong and neither to melted). The end is really steep climbing on snow. So nice view up there. Easy ski descent.
Water : all rivers flowing well at this time with snow melting.

Return : Hitchhike to Pucon was a bit hard (lots of cars but no one stoping). You can go down to the conaf point after end of the trail, good spot to hitchhike, there is free wifi, water, possible camp spot (the guy of conaf that was sleeping here told us it was ok if we couldn't find a car) and buses 1 or 2 times per day.

* '''Start 2024-11-18/ 3d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Bus Liquine from Santiago to Curarrehue, after short part PR, MR with quite some fences to jump over, snow starting higher than 1400m, hitched to Liquine on MR and PR after crossing. Some small supermarkets and restaurants in Liquine

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 13th / 4 days / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1:
Got an Uber right up to the ski centre so didn't pay the entrance fee. Started walking along the side of the volcano with high winds blowing us over every time we gained a ridge - seems we started on the same day as Michael and Kasia but we didn't see them unfortunately. Small trickles of water available at a few points along the route but filled up all our bottles for the night at the marked tap (-39.43584,-71.99555). We persevered through the high winds but still only made it about 15km for the day before setting up camp just beyond Estero Nilfe (not really any water in it) in the outcrop of trees. Plenty of little camp spots out of the wind, with awesome volcano views. Lucky the wind completely died off as we were setting up and we had an awesome fiery sunset over the lake. Went to bed and had an eerily quiet night. We couldn't work out why until we realised this was the first time we hadn't camped next to running water for 3 months.

Day 2:
Awesome sunny and windless day walking along the volcanic landscape. Water a bit scarce along here but managed to fill up from some smaller trickles until we got to Estero Aihue for lunch - plenty of water flowing. Steep descent down into the forest, crossing Rio Llancahue (plenty of running water) before getting to the 4WD track. Pichillanchue has no camping signs around now so not sure if it is still a camp spot. We continued up the road, did a quick side trip up to the glacier (probably not really worth it unless you haven't seen a glacier yet) then walked along the road to the CONAF office at Sector Quetrupillan. Set up camp just after the bridge (-39.45825,-71.81663) and had a very frosty night. Water available from stream under the bridge.

Day 3:
Really picturesque day walking up the ridgeline along Sendero Los Venados - probably our favourite day. Super clear views of all the volcanoes including our first glimpse of Lanin. Fill up with water before gaining the ridgeline as we didn't encounter any after the spring at (-39.47151,-71.82642) until our lunch spot (-39.50227,-71.76688). A few tree obstructions and some steep bits down into the valley but awesome views! Had lunch below Quetrepillan and was debating whether to climb it. By this point it was engulfed in cloud so we decided to continue on without the summit (very sad). Took the detour out to the cool green waterfall in the middle of the volcanic landscape. Then began the climb up and over to Laguna Azul. Some snowy patches but overall fine to walk along. Started getting very windy in the afternoon. Lots of tents at Laguna Azul (and lots of waste, pretty gross). We found a spot in the trees but had a very windy night.

Day 4:
Woke up to high winds and clouds so decided to leg it out of there. Good views on the descent to Laguna las Avutardas but Lanin unfortunately in cloud. Walked all the way out to the road and tried for a hitch for about an hour. First time on the GPT so many cars flew by us - normally we get a hitch straight away! Finally got a ride in the back of a pick up to Curarrehue where we got the bus back to Pucon.

* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 18th / 7 hiking days & 1 zero day / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR The Villarrica Traverse was one of our favorite sections this season; we were really happy we did it in the fall because the color change in the leaves was really beautiful; going eastbound it definitely gets more beautiful as you progress; we had less trouble finding water than we anticipated given previous reports; we caught a hitch all the way to the ski center and so did not pay an entry fee, and we also did not encounter any guardaparques during the 9 days in the park.

Camp points:

Night 1 - (-39.39748, -71.96793)

Night 2 - Estero Nilfe (-39.45876, -71.97840)

Night 3 - Rio Pichillancahue (-39.46861, -71.85707)

Night 4 - Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026)

Night 5 - below Quetrupian (-39.50221, -71.76620)

Nights 6 and 7 - Laguna Azul (-39.54443, -71.74855)

Night 8 - after river (-39.334752, -71.393837)

Water points - we found water often in this section. Around Volcan Villarrica we would sometimes see just a faint trickle across the path, but by going above or below the trail just a few meters we would find pools of clean water.

Day 1 April 10th

We left Pucón around 09:00. It was sunny, but pretty windy. We walked to Camino Al Volcán since it was more likely that cars on that road would be going to the park. It took two hitches, the second took us all the way to the ski center ticket office. This bypassed the CONAF office which is located at the bottom of the hill, so we did not pay or register. The ski center was closed and the road from the ski center ticket office to the beginning of the trail is gated off to cars, so it was about a 2 km road walk on a dirt road. Right at the entrance to the trail to the left are two buildings, one looked like a garage, the other a kitchen/dining room for the ski center workers. There were some people there working. I stopped and asked if they could fill a bottle of water for me and they did. We started on the trail, but the wind was very strong. We got about 1.5 km into the trail before we decided that we wouldn't make it very far since we were spending almost as much time standing and bracing ourselves against the wind as we did walking. We backtracked to (-39.39748, -71.96793), where we had spotted a somewhat wind-protected spot in a small forest. The site can accommodate 1 tent, and is a little on an angle, but not too bad. Wind protection wasn't amazing, but much better than being out in the open. We found water a little further on the trail. It looked like just a trickle coming across the path, but 3 or 4 meters above the trail there were a couple of pools of clear water deep enough to ladle out water with my mug. It was a cloudless night and a really amazing, long lasting sunset, and we could see the red glow of the volcano reflected in the smoke coming out

Day 2 April 11th

A sunny, windless day. There were nice views of the valley below and it was a walk through a classic volcanic landscape, up and down the various zajons, and through some forests. Overall a beautiful day. We also collected a lot of chaura, the little white, pink or red berries. I called them foam berries because they have a kind of airy consistency, but they were sweet and enjoyable, vaguely apple/strawberry flavored I guess. They aren't really filling, but we enjoyed eating something novel and wild harvested.

We camped at (-39.45876, -71.97840) at Estero Nilfe. There was a flat space big enough for one tent. It just barely fit our Durston X-Mid 2, but we managed to squeeze it in. The sunset view was absolutely amazing. The water in the estero was nearly gone for the season. I had to walk about 25 m up the gulch until I found a trickle like a faucet that wasn't fully turned off, and it was still cloudy. I would recommend filling up at (-39.45497, -71.98195) for drinking and cooking before heading there. This was our favorite campsite of the section, not necessarily because of the site itself, but the views. Highly recommended, but also recommended to get there early if going in high season.

Day 3 - April 12th

We had a nice sunrise in the morning. The landscape for the day was almost entirely volcanic until the end. Kasia was very taken by it and enjoyed it a lot. We had a very interesting experience as well. At about 14:00 we crossed a dry river bed at Estero Tralco. We were standing part way up the hill on the far side. We were listening to a sound that we couldn’t tell if it was wind or water. We were looking up the river bed and finally, about 30 m up we saw running water. We kept watching and the water started getting closer. Within 10 minutes the water had gone past us, and the river bed, which had been dry when we crossed it just minutes before, suddenly had a stream probably a meter wide and 6 cm deep. It was very impressive to see a stream just appear before our eyes.

The path down to Rio Pichillancahue was in the forest, steep but in pretty good condition. We camped at (-39.46861, -71.85707). There were flat spots with space for two tents above the path and another one or two below, with decent river access. There is a sign that says “No Camping”, but it obviously had been a campsite at some point. We arrived nearly at dark so no one was around.

Day 4 - April 13th

We had a slow start. A few hikers passed by as we were wrapping up camp. I was surprised when we arrived at the road. I had anticipated a road that was too damaged to drive on, but there were a variety of vehicles parked or driving on the road throughout the day (it was a weekend). There were also a fair number of hikers along the road as well.

At (-39.46156, -71.84584) we encountered a wooden cross standing in a clearing just off the side of the trail. It was unclear if it was a religious thing or art. A little further back there was a short path going down and a water spigot that worked. The water seemed good, though I would probably filter it.

We camped at Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026). There were 10 or 12 campsites with picnic tables and benches. There were also a number of buildings, several of them clearly intended to be bathrooms. There is no running water, but the river is just a short walk back toward the main path. I'm not sure what happened there, but my best guess would be that it was a concession that started to build a campground and went bankrupt and just abandoned the project. It was a good spot for the night.

Day 5 - April 14th

We passed the CONAF office around 7:30, we didn't see anyone there. We filled up water at the first river crossing. It was a cloudy, still morning. The trail up for the first few km was in good condition and easy to follow. There were a few more water points on the way up. The one marked with a sign saying ”Water 20 m” was the last one we saw until we camped that night. We didn't need water, but I went down to check it out. The path down was very steep and there wasn't really easy access to the stream which was piled over with blow downs. A mug or something small would be helpful to ladle water out. There was also a huge araucaria that had dropped a ton of piñones there and we spent nearly an hour collecting. It was the only really good piñones score that we encountered during the section.

Immediately after that were a few problematic blow downs. The trail went into and out of forest sections with some amazing views in between. By the time we reached the pass it was mostly clear. The pass had an almost 360 view, and from one point we could clearly see to the east Lanín and Quetrupian ahead of us, to the north Volcán Llaima in PN Conguillio just to the west of GPT13, to the west Volcán Villarrica behind us, and to the south Volcan Coshuenco and Volcan Mocho in RN Coshuenco adjacent to GPT18. We had lunch at the pass.

The route down was very steep in some parts, and at times felt a little sketchy until we were back in the forest. I would not want to be doing it on a windy day, and I would definitely budget a little extra time. There were some tricky blow downs on the way down as well. We arrived at a water point at (-39.50221, -71.76620), a stream, and decided to camp next to it. There was a clear, flattish spot and the remnants of a past campfire. There was one more possible campsite 100 m or so on that we saw the next day.

Day 6 - April 15th

We awoke to Quetrupian completely covered in fog. We got a slow start hoping that it would eventually clear, but it remained that way throughout the day. We passed by the Volcán Quetrupian camping spot and were glad we had stayed where we did the night before. It was completely barren and exposed other than a couple of low rock walls. It started to get windy as we made our way down to Laguna Azul. We had seen on the weather that it was supposed to start raining that evening and rain the whole next day, so we wanted to get a good campsite to sit it out. The Laguna was very pretty, but the camping area is, as others have mentioned, kind of trashed. Additionally it was not so easy to find a good spot. Most of the flattish areas were essentially the bottom of a bowl that would accumulate water fast, and there was a lot of cold wind coming directly off the lake. We found a spot around (-39.54443, -71.74855) near a small beach on the way towards RR going south that was more wind protected. We set up two ponchos to have an outdoor cooking and eating area and did some extensive trenching around the tent and built a low rock wall on the water side.

Day 7 - April 16th

Rain, wind and fog all day. The trenching turned out to be very useful. The rain was heavier and lasted longer than the weather prediction, and the trenches filled multiple times throughout the day. Some water found its way into the tent, but not too much. We managed to stay dry overall. We spent the day cooking and peeling piñones in the outdoor area. It was very wet and very windy, but we were grateful to have a fairly protected spot.

Day 8 - April 17th

There were clear skies and sun in the morning. We took extra time getting the wet gear as dried as we could, anticipating that we might not have a good opportunity later. Ford [36.6/1652 ] was dry foot crossable. The water was milky. On the way down to the branch in the trail toward Laguna Blanca there was a good, clear stream that looks like a permanent feature given all the plant growth around it. We dropped the packs and walked to Laguna Blanca. Kasia liked it very much. It didn’t do much for me. There were some great views on the way up to the passes.

Once over the second pass and back into Chile, there were absolutely stunning views in the evening light. The whole valley had a magical quality. Along the route down much of the landscape is essentially wetland, so it was a little slow going to not get our feet wet. We camped at (-39.334752, -71.393837) just on the other side of the river. The spot was above the path tucked away in the trees. It was a fairly large clear spot, though on somewhat of an angle. Going back out to the path, we had an exceptional sunset view over the mountains.

Day 9 - April 18th

We had an amazing sunrise in the morning. The route down continued to be wet and boggy in many places, requiring careful choice of footing. There were great views on the way down with the fall color. The trail through the woods above Laguna Las Avutardes was better, though there were some blow downs. We did not make the detour to the lake. There was a very nice forest further on with some very large trees. We hiked down to the highway and tried to hitchhike from the rest stop just across the street from the cafe, which was closed when we were there. After a bit with no luck we started hiking the highway down. After about 30 minutes a Mapuche man in a truck stopped without us even trying to hitchhike and offered us a ride to Currarehue which we gratefully accepted. He dropped us off on the main street in town and we caught a bus a few minutes later to Pucón.

* '''2024-Mar-24 to 2024-Mar-28 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 04 02 RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, Tabanos, Mosquitos and only very easy fords. Clean water is limited in some parts. Water markers flowing. Laguna Azul nice for a swim.

Started in Pucon, going for 04 Villarrica Traverese, the one Uber on Sunday forenoon does not want the job up to the ski center, and hitchhiking is harder then expected on this sunny, blue sky sunday. So first lots of road hiking, got 3 short rides later on.
Rangerstation at -39.349925,-7196941 Entry fee is 8k, friendly ranger, you get a map, not that useful though. The ranger paints the possible campsites on it.

Water at -39.435836,-71.995461
Next clean water at -39.454973,-71.981950 camp here or take water for camp next to Estero Nilfe.

First camp at Estero Nilfe, very brown, sandy, fast stream: -39.458163,-71.978453, camp: -39.458755,-71.978396
Next water again very brown and sandy at -39.476059,-71.924327
Tiny stream of fresh clean water at -39.474726,-71.891417
Bigger clean stream at -39.477181,-71.886020
Further at -39.475188,-71.874056
Bridge over not so clear water at -39.467944,-71.857586
Next clean water at -39.461168,-71.832391

Second camp at ranger camp -39.456630,-71.817651 (noone around there). There are toilets, access to river 5m southeast at the bridge -39.457709,-71.816879
Soon next clean water at -39.461418,-71.819858 I think there is one more fresh water soon after, but not sure. Take a bit, there is non for a while until -39.502209,-71766203
Next at -39.507045,-71.754523

Few km after park ranger 04 31.9 on 04 is partly overgrown and lots of fallen trees, especially on ridge on downhill from ridge to the east. Third Camp nearby close to the waterfalls around -39.511782,-71.750506 some stonewalls for tents but no larger vegetation. Shortly after last water until lake azul. Amazing viewpoint south of pass 2.5/1924. Ford 40.3/1593 should be dry feet crossing now, I built some stone islands into the stream.

Quite dense forest afterwards, next possible camp where 02a ends, but not so nice and no water. Afterwards regulary patches of meadows but without water. Path at -39.652889,-71.843811 impassable but wacky lodge bridge at -39.652985,-71.843994, just a few meters west. Bridge at 58.6 is gone but easy ford a few douzen meters southeast. Camp after ford, asked the guy from the settlement, he is super chill and say I can choose wherevee I want to put my tent. Meadows full of shit though. Around 8-9pm massive blast of Bumm-Bumm music from the settlement, easy to hear even 200m away next to the river and with earplugs.

Gate at RR eastwards at junction B. Got a lift there to Liquiñe. Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at -39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

Parts of Villarica Traverse is really beautiful. Southern parts of RR it's long, long boring road walking.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + summit Quetrupillan / Juliet and Martin '''

Day 1 Cararrehue to (-39.47055, -71.63177)

We left Cararrehue after sleeping in a campsite (altitude 360) for 7000 pesos per person. It's a good idea to stock up on water, as the rivers are milky. We filtered the water with our water bottles and it was fine. Lots of gates to climb. We slept in the forest near a river at the entrance to the national park. We recommend it.

Day 2 from (-39.47055, -71.63177) to Laguna Azul

We reached the laguna blanca, which is also milky. Magnificent. Great bivouac spot at laguna azul, which is finally transparent. Several places to shelter from the wind. There are a few people and garbage, but it's easy to get away from them and set up camp.

Day 3 ascent of Quetrupillan volcano

A long day's walk to the summit of Quetrupillan volcano and back. Lots of wind. Magnificent views, a must! We decided to do the grand tour, following the marked path (track on gaia) and not the GPT tracks after reading about other experiences on wikiexplora. We didn't encounter any technical difficulties. Long climb and very steep at the end. We recommend following the Gaia trail.
Back to laguna azul where we had left our gear to climb lighter.

Day 4 laguna azul a ruta 201 CH
We finally finished this section in one last day due to bad weather (continuous rain). Last day in the forest. No interest beyond that. We rejoined ruta 201 CH, where we were quickly picked up and hitchhiked to Conaripe. We stayed in Conaripe at the Hotel Chumay, which is very good and not too expensive.
There are buses in Conaripe, and we took one to Licanray as we'd missed the direct one to Panguipuilli, but it runs once a day. From Licanray we reached Panguipuilli and then Valdivia.

* '''From 2024-03-06 to 2023-03-08 // 2,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + summit Quetrupillan // Quentin Clavel'''

After a long, smooth and easy to follow ascent, threw gravel road then nice and large forest track, and finally lovely little path, I reached the volcanic plateau.

It was very windy when I arrived at Laguna Azul, and I really hesitated to go up to the volcano Quetrupillan. I finally put my pant and jacket on, and start the climb, without my bag that I left at the campsite next to the Laguna.

Even if it's windy, I think the first part of the climb is definitely worth it, to have this amazing view on Villarica on one side and Lanin on the other ! Stunning !

Then I continue, but didn't follow the GPX track, and just cross country threw different snow patches, and loosing rocks area, to reach the crater (east part). I stayed there less than 2 minutes I guess, the wind was just that crazy that thought I'll be blown away.

The view up there is pretty nice, but from where I was on the crater, I've got the summit part in front of me that hide the Villarica volcán. Anyway, with these conditions it wasn't doable to go to the summit safely. So I just went down, sliding on volcanic little rocks and snow patches, lot of fun !

I found back my bag and spent the night at Laguna Azul campsite, enjoyed to be sheltered from the wind on this tiny forest.

Before leaving the area make sure to fill your water as you'll not have clear/clean water for a while.

The next day was very hard because of the harsh weather. It was rainy a lot, very windy and so cold. I even was into a snow storm on the volcanic plateau and all the length until the entrance on the forest. That wasn't fun at all ! I struggled a bit on the turn around laguna blanca, as the water from the heavy rain created some small rivers that I had to cross.

Then as the altitud decrease, snow became rain, and it finally stopped to turn into blue sky at the end of the day.

From the volcanic plateau, you'll alternate between forest trail, gravel road and asphalt road. Mostly very easy to follow. Few time you'll pass kind of residentially place, all the people that I met were absolutely lovely !

Between PK 12 and PK 8, you'll have few gates and fences to jump. I met Don Carlos at PK12, he's the owner of the property where you have to climb 2 fences and pass a gate, very nice and kind man, he even escorted me to pass the first gate and the fence and explained me the way very precisely.

Then after PK8, you reach a gravel road, it was longer for me because I stopped very regularly to eat looooot of blackberrys and plums that I found on the way. Finally, you'll reach the internacional road, and the city of currarehue.

Currarzhue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 02 +03 + B/ Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [0.0-34.6]

Bus from Pucon to Curarrehue leaves frequently from the terminal Vipu-Ray (-39.27753, -71.97265) and costs 2000 Pesos. I had to climb a locked wooden gate (8.6), locked barbed wire gates (10.1 and 11.4.) and barbed wire fence (9.8 and 11.7) while following the RR. Other than that the first 20 km are pretty easy to walk and relatively boring. There was a little stream next to RR at km 11.2. At km 15.7 and 18.3 it's possible to acces Estero Huililco. The RR crosses a small river at km 23.1, which is the last water source until Laguna Blanca. There is plenty of flat space for camping all around Laguna Blanca.

Day 2: RR [34.6-40.2] + to Volcan Quetrupillan and back on OH16-02 + OH16-03

There are still some big snow patches on OH16-03, but they can be avoided with some rock scrambling. Just before the Summit of Quetrupillan I had to use both my hands for climbing up. On the way down I took the OSM trail that leaves the RR at -39.49735, -071.72325 and rejoines the RR at -39.50155, -071.72667. It's pretty steep, but I didn't had to use my hands to climb down. But I had to maneuver around some snowfields to get back to the RR. There are a few water sources during the first 2 km of OH16-03. The view from Volcan Quetrupillan is amazing and the hike to the summit isn't to hard.

Day 3: RR [40.2-64.5] + OH16-B

The Bridge at km 58.6 is gone, but its an easy ford. Possible camping spot just south of water marker at km 44.2. I took OH16-B down to the main road and hitched from there to Conaripe. There is water at all water/ford markers on the whole RR.

Outside of the area around Volcan Quetrupillan the RR is pretty boring. A traverse from the ski area (OH16-4) over Quetrupillan to Puesco Norte (OH16-1) is the more scenic route.

* '''2024-Feb-02 to 2024-Feb-06 / 4.5 days / Hiking / Westbound / Villarrica traverse / Gerald'''

Since i came from Argentina i wanted to start at Puesco. In Curarrehue i couldn't find a Gascontainer with a screw. GYG had none and the Ferreterias have only the long one or the one without the screw.... But there is a bus going to Pucon every 20min for 2k.
Run out of time and camped at the Puesco Cervezeria. Nice beer and good spot next to the river. CONAF couldn't give me any information about water sources along the trail. If you start in Pucon they do incl. a Map....
I always found enough water, but i don't need that much. Camped at Laguna las Avutardes (bad weather was coming), Laguna Azul (really nice, almost no litter), Rio Pichillancahue (only spot for maybe 2 tents, water was cloudy but drinkable aber you let the soil (?) settle, in the morning it's cleaner) and 6km before the ski center since i wanted to see the volcano glowing at night. Camping on volcanic gravel was not smart but didn't damage my tent :)
I had a lot of luck with the weather, since i could descent right before the big rain. Beautiful trail, landscape is unreal. Just keep in mind if you wear trailrunner, the vulcanic rocks will eat them :)
In Pucon is a shoe repair shop between Uruguay and Peru street called "clinica de calzado". They seem more specialized in leather boots, but tried their best on my trailrunner. Have Frankenstein shoes now :)
There are tours going up to the volcano villarrica, but they are not allowed to summit right now. They charge around 100k. Maybe with some planing it is possible to get the gear from an tour operator at the ski station and continue the journey. In the area around Villarrica is cell reception.

* 2024-Feb-07 - 2024-Feb-10, NOBO, Hiking, 4 days, RR, 16-01, czimahi

from Liquiñe by road and the direction Trancas Negras; Join RR, Bridge 16 (5 - no bridge; night in camp without water. Next day to Laguna Azul and by 16-01 to laguna Avutardas (camp before 34,7) lots of water on the way till the last indicated. next day to Puesco camping on road (with artesanal beer), then going back to Conaf to 16-01. by the level of camp Puesco there is a bridge but closed by gate, easy to cross by left side, i decided not to go but then I was in that place, the way is just here. Just one spiny fence without any gate on the way.

If you go just the larger "road" for a car you will get join to the 16-01 which in some case is marked by some horse trail or something like this - I returned thinking I'm lost but I would get the route. In Trancura a car stopped me and took me to Curarrehue.

* 2024-01-28 to 2024-01-31: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days Villarrica traverse

Like many others, we chose to do the scenic Villarrica traverse. We skipped the first day around the Villarrica mountain and started from CONAF Chinay (by taking an Uber -- until 1km before CONAF it's 2wd friendly). We left our stuff at the somewhat abandoned looking campsite at S 39° 27.571', W 071° 49.815' and went for a short hike up to Glaciar Pichillancahue. Nice, but not really a must in our opinion. The next day we hiked to the refreshing waterfalls at S 39° 30.715', W 071° 45.147' and camped there. The third day, we went up to the rim of the Quetrupillan volcano -- nice views! This involved hiking up some snowfields (but no technical gear was required). The peak itself involves scrambling up a short route. Not difficult but the rock is incredibly crumbly and so we turned around. Fun descent via buttsliding down the snowfields. Hike to the very scenic Lago Azul. We pushed on along the very scenic trail and camped at S 39° 33.759', W 071° 39.654', a bit after the getting back across the border to Chile from Argentina. The argentinian side would make for an awesome campsite with a great sunset too (in our case, there was also water from snowmelt), especially at S 39° 34.315', W 071° 40.548'. The fourth day was simply a hike out with a short stop at another lake. Easy hitchhike back to Pucón.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-16 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex & Lotti'''

We liked this hike a lot, especially the diversity of the landscape with the forests, volcanoes and lakes. We were happy that we did it in eastbound direction, because this way the landscape got more and more beautiful towards the end, and transportation to and from trail was easy.
Trail conditions were very good, only the trail from "Cafe Villarrica Traverse" to the Puesco CONAF office (part of Option 1) was overgrown and sometimes hard to find.

Camping:
Estero Nilfe (Beautiful view, no clean water), CONAF camp Chinay (weird abandoned construction site, but river close), Laguna Azul (beautiful campsite, but clearly used by many people, not much trash when we were there), Laguna Las Avurtardas (beautiful lake and campsite, lots of cow and horse shit, so water has to be filtered)

Transport to start:
We took an Uber to the Ski Center and paid 12000 pesos (more than what the driver asked for, but he had to wait for us while we did the registration at the CONAF office, so we paid a little extra).

Transport from end:
Bus at 5pm from the CONAF office in Puesco to Curarrehue, then bus to Pucon. (There is a river with nice swimming sites very close to the CONAF office to make waiting for the bus enjoyable)

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 5 days / Hiking / (eastbound?) / Villarrica traverse RR - {16-04} - {16-02} - {16} - {16-A} - {16-01} / Andrew'''

This was my favourite hike so far. I did it in 5 days, but I wish I'd added an extra day to do the 2 side trips mentioned by Nat and Tomas (Quetrupillan summit and glacier Pichillancahue). Notes for logistics if you're doing the traverse and plan to return to Pucon: Chili Kiwi hostel won't store bags during the high season while you hike, but Gecko hostel will (for $5.000 CLP).

Day 1 (trail start to Zanjón pino Huacho):

Two rides got me up to CONAF station. I registered for the hike, $10.000 CLP, and they gave me a map of the trail and a tag for my backpack. I only saw the park rangers once however in the final 2km of the trail. Officially no wild camping. I was eager (ok maybe impatient) to start so I started hiking up to the ski centre after about 15 minutes without success hitchhiking. In hindsight I wished I waited longer, as the 8km uphill to the ski centre is not that interesting. I ate lunch at the ski centre, refilled my water bottles, and started the trek.

Incredible landscapes, going back and forth between barren volcanic rocks spotted with wildflowers to tall grasses. I found a stream that looked clear at ( 39°24'57.16"S, 71°58'18.54"W), so I drank water from it. Otherwise no water until Zanjón pino Huacho where I camped.

Day 2 (Zanjón pino Huacho to near Chinay):

Started with Araucaria forests, and then back to volcanic landscapes. First glimpse of the twin peaks of Choshuenco/Mocho and later on Lanin. After Valle de Fuego, you up and down over a couple valleys, the last one had a stream and that's where I had lunch. Long uphill stretch, a stand of Araucaria trees, and then windings paths through tall grasses just above the treeline. Many day hikers walking up from Pichillancahue to the mirador del volcan. River Pichillancahue looked like it had some nice places to camp, but marked with no camping signs. With so many people going back and forth I decided to continue onwards. I camped at an official looking campground with a water spigot and a thunder box close to Chinay.

Day 3 (near Chinay to Quetrupillan waterfall):

After Chinay there is a long uphill but worth it for the views. Partway up the hill there's a sign for water 20 m downhill. Tricky to get to, but this is the last water for several hours. I was carrying 1.75L and that wasn't enough. Amazing views up high, then a slow descent. Found some muddy pools, and then finally a clear stream at (39°30'25.70"S, 71°45'15.91"W). Lots of blackflies, but there was a cool moment where a lizard crawled onto my shoes and started hunting them. Camped at Quetrupillán waterfalls, stunning landscapes and view of the fire from Villarrica at night.

Day 4 (Quetrupillan waterfall to Laguna Avutardas):

A couple spots where the trail is covered in snow and you need to find your own way down. Stopped at Laguna Azul for lunch. Sad to see the state of the campground there, so much trash. If you're doing the traverse make sure you don't start following the main GPT trail after the lake like I did. And then it's worth going back to the main trail even if you have to cross the river at a difficult spot. I tried to find another crossing, and then made my own way through the lava field which was difficult, would not recommend. Continued onwards, more snow. Laguna blanca was worth a detour. More amazing views, and then the last snowing section followed by a long muddy descent to Laguna Avutardas. Several other Villarrica traverse hikers camped on the beach.

Day 5 (Launa Avutardas to end):

Coldest night by far with frost on my tent in the morning! Easy hike to the road. First sighting of the park rangers. Hitchhiked back to Pucon.

* '''2024-Jan-17 to 2024-Jan-19 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {16-02} - {16-03} - {16-02} - RR - {16-B} / Lilian'''

I really enjoy GPT16, walking on the beach beside Laguna Blanca, climbing Volcán Quetrupillán, camping at outlet of Laguna Azul and soaking in hot spring at Liquiñe, they are all so lovely.

Volcán Quetrupillán still covered by lot of snow above 1930m. Also need to climb up a 40° snow slope and traverse to it's rim. Take your time.

RR km0 - km8.9 : dirt road walking.

Km8.0 : clear water flowing beside the road. (-39.38490, -71.63200)

Km8.3 : camping possibilities on grassland at uphill side with no fence.(-39.38470, -71.63648)

Km8.65 : locked gate with barbed wire fence, a house just behind the gate, better ask for the permission first.

Km8.9 : 4 way junction, dirt road become an old trail.

Km9.75 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. 2 holes at fence , one is already covered by bamboo, another one is at (-39.38352, -71.64776), go through it you will connect to an dirt road at other side.

Km10.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Open the gate at top, remains the lock there and big step over, my legs are too short, the barbed wire breaks a hole at my shorts here ;(

Km11.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. At right side there is a small gap let small people go through, but not for backpack, so climb it!

Km11.15 : bridge and a stream flowing good at right side(-39.39046, -71.65845), go over the bridge then you will find a side trail at right side to stream.

Km11.3 : bridge and a stream flowing good, but no way to go down.

Km11.35 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Climb.

Km11.7 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. Houses at (-39.39480, -71.66123), a dog continues barking when i was climbing the fence, make me so anxiety...

Km12.2 : finally, this gate can open it with the chain at middle. But i didn't know it can be opened before i saw the chain, so i climbed the gate...

FYI : RR follow the valley and Estero Huililco climbing up, but no clear water, because the river is milky.

Km16.5 : grassland(-39.42330, -71.65069) with no fence can fit many tents, but i think this spot is just for group hikers, because it is beside the road without any covers, every cars passing here must see you, it is not safe for solo hiker.

Km18.25 : camping spot can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring beside the river. Some trees and bushes here, very little privacy.

Km18.6 : bus stop here, and i don't know about the bus schedule.

Km18.65 - km19.2 : look like is a paid campground.

Km20.05 : dirt road junction, an old dirt road at left side, flat and without rocks, you can camp here if need. South of RR in this forest also lot spots for camping.

Km23.15 : crossing of a milky stream, just above ankle. It is the last reliable water until Laguna Blanca.

Km26.25 : junction of dirt road and trail, RR is turn to trail now, dirt road will end by damaged and huge blowdown, so turn left and climb up on the trail.

Km27 : information board( with Spanish and English). From the board, RR-CC-A[29.3+5.9] is the official route.

Km29.3 : junction of RR and {16-A}, RR at here is a clear trail, not CC. Easy to follow.

Km29.85 : water spot(-39.51775, -71.65871)! Tiny stream flowing low with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts, easy to collect. No water at downstream, because it just flow some meters then seep into sand. Some more tiny streams also flowing low beside the trail or across the trail by snow melts, but i think this is the best one in some km.

Km30.6 : viewpoint of Lanín! Some snow patch nearby, flat and easy to walk on.

Km32.6 : Laguna Blanca, cross 2 chocolate stream, just above ankle, but the riverbed is muddy in some steps.

Km33.05 : a 80m snow patch, not steep, not difficult, but you'll drop into the lake if slide.

Km35.2 : junction of RR and {16-A}. Tiny stream flowing good with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts beside the junction, easy to collect.

Km35.4 : steep snow slope at east side of the pass. Better go around it at right side (north). Tiny stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, at west side of the pass too.

Ford[36.6/1652] : crossing of a milky stream, above ankle.

Km37.6 - km38 , km39.9 - km40.1 : snow patches, easily go around.

Then i go for {16-02} then {16-03} climbing Volcán Quetrupillán.

{16-02} km0.15 : small stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, easy to collect.

Km1.65 : snow patch.

Km1.9 : junction of {16-02} and {16-03}, {16-03} maybe sometime have rock cairns, but i just find the trail when it is already very close to summit, so mostly CC go by yourself. {16-02} km2.1 to pass[2.5/1924], almost half is covered by snow, it becomes steep when get close to pass, be careful.

{16-03} km0.45 : snow slope steep go down, i go down at a little north, the slope is much shorter.

Km1.15 : due to lot of snow melts, the milky lake become larger than it shows on map. So walk a little east to go around.

Km1.3 : snow start, i recommend just walking on snow to trail junction waypoint at km2.1, it is gentle.

Km2.1 : tiny stream(-39.51478, -71.73556) flowing low with clear water just beside the trail junction (but i didn't see any trail here.)

Then the climbing is covered by lot of snow. You can walk on a dry rocky slope until km2.45, then choose continue finding dry slope to walk (but they are going around and around so the distance are a little longer and some puds, also sometimes block by snow wall), or climbing up on snow directly.

I climbed on the snow slope, because they are stable and not too steep, looks like better than following rock cairns on the dry slope.

When you arrive km3.7(-39.50145, -71.72655), look up to the mountain top. Of course the sharp peak at left is Quetrupillán, and your target is climbing up to the part at its right side, red colour and a little rocky one, that's the pass(-39.49857, -71.72277), also trail there.

Because most of the slope still covered by snow, so go a little southeast, you'll find a dry rock slope, parallel to GPX tracks. Not too much, but at least some places you can stand on easily and take a short break in climbing. Straight climb up the 40° snow slope to km4.05(2265m) (-39.50003, -71.72333), then traverse to the red part, trail is here(-39.49889, -71.72298). When it close to the red part, the snow slope becomes a little icy, kick step and be careful.

Arrive on the red, you can follow the loose rocky trail to the pass. You can continue climbing up to summit or walking on the rim for views.

After enjoying the moments for volcano, i slide down at here(-39.49886, -71.72313), a good way without rocks. Then skiing back to {16-02}. Lot fun!

I took 4.5 hours for climbing up and 2.5 hours for go down back to Laguna Azul. At my first plan, i want to go down to camp beside the waterfall at (-39.51315, -71.74967) then back to the Laguna Azul on next day, but it looks like lot of snow in the valley after the no trail's trail junction, also need a steep going down the pass. So i just take a round trip even i climbed Quetrupillán with my full backpack.

RR lake,camp[40.2/1597] : Laguna Azul, clear water. Can fit 3-4 tents under some short trees, with fire ring and wind protection, but a little crowded.

Ford[40.3/1593] : lake outlet, wet feet crossing, a beautiful camping spot can fit 1 tent just downstream 20m, another crossing point there too.

Camp[40.3/1601] : still covered by snow patch now.

Km41.7 : camping area with fire pit and log seats, covered by many trees.

X[49.6/997] : 4 way junction, some more junctions at south.

Water[51.1/871] : flowing low with clear water.

Km51.6 : 3 way junction, at left, a good road going down at east side of the valley. At right is RR, go down at west side of valley. Road is heavy damage just after the junction, be careful for crossing, the road is collapsing(-39.60354, -71.81894).

Km51.9 - km52.4 : a large beautiful grassland, nice camping spot. Start from here, the "road" becomes better condition.

X[55.6/618] : junction of RR and a good road, looks like coming from other sidecof valley.

Km57.75: grassland, camping spot.

Settlement, bridge[58.6/440] : the road is damaged before the "bridge", a board bridge (-39.65286, -71.84399) for human crossing. The bridge also is damaged, looks like washed away, so crossing at upstream (-39.65410, -71.84389), rock bar underwater, above ankle. This stream's water is flowing good with clear water. After crossing is a nice spot with lunch, well tree shade. Fire ring and log seats under a tree too, but it is in the area of settlement.

Camp[62.1/486] : i didn't notice the spot when i passed here, maybe I missed it.

Km64.5 : junction of RR and {16-B}, i take {16-B} because of shorter distance to main road, also no need to climb up 120m again as RR.

Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Then i walked all the way to Liquiñe, no bus and no luck(no successful hitch).

For resupply details read GPT17.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4 +sendero glacier Pichillancahue ( we did a cross country after towards the East to go to the Morador Los volcanoes ) / Yannick & Nolwenn'''
- Water : easy to find
- Snow : still snow left on the Quatrupillen volcano but manageable to go up
- Camping spot : easy to find
- Weather : Sunny
- Resupply : in Pucon to start and in Conaripe at the end of the section

* '''2023-01-02/05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + volcano Quetrupillán / Hermann & Coline'''

The GPT16 was a really nice experience !

Milagro, who hosted us in Liquiñe, gave us cherries and nuts for the travel ! With that, the sloapses up-hill felt less hard than it was for our legs.

We slept at the Camp Without Water {16} [52.3/794] the first night (and even found water nearby). We arrived at the Laguna Azul the next day.

We stayed there two days, so that I could walk up to the summit of Volcano Quetrupillán.

The ascension was okay. The sunny sky was a bit covered by clouds, but without wind. I just had a headhick after, because of the UVs reflecting on the snow (I guess). There are some places where one's can't avoid walking on it, so I took my time to "read" the landscape (underground rivers etc).

I left the GPT to take the optional road on Locus, that follows the crater at the end. It was scary at the top, but not dangerous.

On the way back, I started by following a group of men on a much easier way going westbound. Then, I went south and it was easy to follow the landlarks I had token outbound (the frozen lake for instance).

There was wind in the mid of the day and two chilians warned us that there would be snow in the night. Therefore, we spend the night at the Laguna Blanca : lot's of wind, but no snow there and even a new glacier river in the morning !

Thanks to the previous posts on Wikiexplora and also to Lukas and Tess we've meet on the way, we took enough water for the next 30kms down-hill. Actually, there was a river (probably due to the storm), even crossing the road at some point, but I'm not sure it was drinkable.

We went to Catripulli instead of Currarehue. We wanted to take a bus to Villarica – where there is a Scotiabank –, and to skip sections 14 & 15, so to join the GPT again at Icalma. This was a bad idea... There's no direct bus between Villarica and Melipeuco ; we had to first reach Temuco. Moreover, there's no bus from Melipeuco to Icalma, so we hitchhiked. (There were not many cars ; it took us a day.)

Food :
1. In Liquiñe, the shop just before the bridge is smaller and more expensive than the others (saying Milagro).
2. There are no piñones at the foot of the Araucanian tree, since the season starts in march (saying a woman who took us in her car).
3. In Catripulli, there's a shop with all you need and more – even argentinian cakes and Malta beers !

* '''2024-Jan-02 to 07 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Huella Andina plus new options / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a start of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT16 to middle of GPT18, next log is in GPT18H. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1754087775097101/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.]

In summary, we crossed the border into Argentina from Pucon and gained a ridge beneath Lanin's east face and traversed it towards a hiking trail in Argentina known as "Cara Sur Volcán Lanin". We then utilized the Huella Andina (HA) to end in San Martin. It took us ~5 days.

Day 1: Pucon-border-camp 1
From Pucon we took the Pullman Bus ("IGI LLAIMA") heading to San Martin, Argentina. It is the only company going to Argentina and leaves at 11:00am. I figured it would be the easiest way to cross the border and also the most likely way to keep food from being checked. It worked but it was slow and expensive (19 thousand CLP per person). They never ended up asking about food in the end, but the bus driver told us no fresh food was allowed and to make sure to have your PDI paper (a photo of it works too). The bus driver let us out at the National park guards for the Lanin park (we failed to explain we wanted to get off 2 km down the road). Luckily nobody at the park asked us what we were doing. We just continued walking on the road and got a hitch 2km to the start of the route. It took about 4hours to get from Pucon to the start, border time waits will vary. There just so happened to be a locked gate where we started and an old road, we jumped over it and prepared our things under some Aracaurias.

It looked as if there were many options for access but we decided against following any of the side ridge lines and instead aimed for a green bushy bowl at the top of a gentle valley in front of us. The valley is between a highly cliffy ridge to the right (the first one post Lanin) and a slightly rocky ridge on the left. There was an old road that took us to the base of the slope. The road goes along a circle, one might want to go directly cross country. Anyway, then we marched up the first steep slope through low shrubbery. On top we then made an ascending traverse to the left side of the valley, crossing through a fairly recent burn zone and a creek that runs in the middle. Despite the trees down, the walking was still pleasant, there were cow tracks here and there that we could follow. Looking from top of the first hill where the burnt Araucarias are, there was a nice non bushy c-shaped curve on the left of the creek that looked like it would take you in nicely.

To get to the top of the ridge (or green bowl as I say) you will have to cross some shrubbery but it was never terrible, only ~300m of rather easy bush bashing. However, getting from the creek to the shrubbery was rather steep. We followed a sloped washout, it was a mixture of steep rock (mostly solid) and hollow dirt, which seemed to enjoy engulfing your leg at times (postholing through dirt). I wouldn't worry about it too much, but to some it may be uncomfortably steep.
We made camp at the top of the ridge in a grassy plateau with water (-39.63637, -71.43107), unfortunately it was very windy.

Day 2 - Camp 1 - lanin Traverse - Lago Paimun
The next day we ascended a bit above camp and then followed underneath a ridgeline and made a long traverse with mild up and downs to the main pass before the ugly moraine part near one of Lanin's SE glacier's (-39.66646, -71.47695). The traverse before the moraine was easy, one could take many ways, the terrain was simple and there was lots of water. The moraine however had more obstacles and the hanging glacier up high made crossing in the mid day heat feel a bit intimidating. My main worry was crossing Arroyo Rucu Leufu near the end, my plan was to cross it high but since there was still solid snow covering it, we crossed it easily (breaking through was not a worry but if it happened it would have terrible consequences, therefore maybe aim to cross it higher than where we crossed, when snow is gone, fording should be easier). For the moraine crossing, one could traverse it high or low. My plan was to cross low where the moraine walls were less steep but we did a bit of both, Tomáš traversed closer to the 2000m mark and it was fine for him, I dropped down to see how the lower slopes were and I was happier on them. However if you go low you will have to climb back up no further than the moraine rib ~ here (-39.67443, -71.48657) as it is the one before Arroyo Rucu Leufu.
Once we hit the lookout trail on the other side the 10km decent went very fast. Apart from the unnecessary river crossing we did twice; the signage and gps are misleading and make you ford the river twice but there is a trail now that stays on the west side of the river, no need to cross. Near the end of the trail we took a dirt road on our right to get to camping Mawizache faster. I was told this camping had good food, but I wish we had just gone straight to the boat crossing and camped on the other side. However, bcs of this we never crossed the park entrance so noone ever ended up asking questions...

At Mawizache we had our first taste of bizarre Argentina currency exchange. The camping was an okay price (2mil each) but the dinner ended up costing us a lot more than expected. I had changed a 50us bill to Argentina pesos in Pucon but it was such a terrible rate (25000pesos for a 50, almost half of what I should have gotten) that I could not even afford to buy the dinner. Because of this we had to pay with a 50usd bill or 100usd bill bcs anything less cannot be exchanged in Argentina. We got the change back in pesos at a rate around ~1usd:650pesos. Long story short, it sorted itself out and it was nice to have a dinner on the lake, the trout and wine was excellent but she forgot to make two other dishes we ordered. We bought some white bread loafs from the man at the camping for 1mil each.

Day 3: Lago Paimun - Termas Camping
As for the next day, we crossed Lago Paimun by the little boat with a bell (-39.74619, -71.52482). It cost 3mil each bcs we were not staying at the campsite. Another reason we should have crossed the night before (hours for the boat bell system are 8-13:00 and 15:00-20:30). The camp there is run by a large family, they had bread and probably other food as well. We had to register our names and then the elder showed us the start of the Huella Andina trail behind her house.
The Huella Andina trail was signed and easy to follow. The first half of it on the way to the road was super fast and then near the end it became more slow and slightly grown over, but never terrible. Only one river ford.
The border road that this trail shoots you out on is closed for car traffic, it seemed. There is a barricade at the border checkpoint and no one stationed there. After the checkpoint the road becomes very much a "road" and seems to see a lot of vehicle traffic. We arrived at the hotsprings almost too early as there were a few groups. The hotsprings were once taken care of, now abandoned. There is this incredibly annoying wooden walkway that takes you to them (~800m) and then if you continue on it you get to the camping. The walkway is falling apart in places and there is a small suspension bridge that I hope does not collapse on somebody. We had dinner and got water by this suspension bridge and went back to the hotsprings when everyone was gone. The main one is bath water temperature (it is the largest and with a wooden patio like feature). There is another one maybe 30m before that is more dirty but warmer. The other ones that exist are way too hot, I think they are 60-70 degrees.
Instead of walking back we followed the broken walkway to the Termas camping and slept there. Didn't realize untill the morning it was payed camping, so we payed 2mil each.

Day 4: Termas- Achen Niyeu area -camp near pass
The road was not so bad, we got a hitch for the last 5km. Lots of cars going up to the hot springs but it was a bit too early for downward traffic. Laguna Verde is very popular and we thought they would charge us a day rate so we tried to cross the lagoon where it was narrow - that was a fail, too deep. They didn't charge us anyways so it was a waste of time but they did need us to register. Apart from trying to avoid Laguna Verde, it actually was a nice place in the end. The owners are a young and easy to get along with couple, their shop had lots of treats like pizza, bread, muffins and other basics. The rest of the day was slow for us as we were trying to plan an alternative ridge traverse but then the weather started to move in so we just hid our bags and went up Achen Niyeu quickly. The way down was probably the closest I will get to skiing this year. The plateau around Achen Niyeu was an incredibly beautiful volcanic landscape, easy to sit and admire for some time. Due to weather and Tomáš 's leg acting up we made an early camp in the trees on the other side of the pass. There is a tarped shelter set up where we camped, either for emergencies or for someone else (-39.88473, -71.54229).

Day 5 pass camp- bush camp
We may have missed the rain but we definitely had to deal with the consequences the next morning. The trail is still in good shape down from the pass but since it is still bushy and muddy in spots we got drenched from wet grass and leaves. The refugio Rincón de los pinos would have been a nice place to camp and so would have Auquinco. We went to Auquinco thinking it would be abandoned, but we wanted to see the state of the trail that supposedly goes around the lake, we were hoping there was a chance one could cross Lago Lolog to get to the other trails on the opposite side. It does not look like this is possible without weeks/months worth of machete work. There was a man, a citizen park-ranger or something like that, who was called Juan and based at Auquinco for the summer. He had a funny character and was very welcoming. He offered coffee and a place above his fire to dry our things and also told us no one has used those trails around the lake for at least 10 years.[November 2024: Tomáš has since removed that noexistent trail from OSM, it went west along the northern shore of Lago Lolog.] We enjoyed the pretty surroundings and then headed to the end of the trail near "bush camp" (40.0211644S, 71.3612525W) for our final night. The bush camp is just a few spots in the lake shore, no services, since it is free, but it is far nicer than the paid camping (7.5mil).
Next day we hitched back to San Martin easily.

* '''2023-29-12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 and 4 / Jens '''

Hitchhiked from Curarrehue to the trailhead of Option 1.

I didn't pay any entrance fees.

Lots of water until Villarrica volcano. Around the volcano good camping but little water. Water was clean.

Hitchhiked from the ski resort to Pucon. Lots of people in the resort for daywalks.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-01 & 02 + Quetrupillan summit + Villarica traverse / Martial.'''

Puesco - Pucón
Villarica traverse is indeed an interesting alternative for GPT16. The views on Volcanos are gorgeous and trail in good conditions for the all trip. My personal camping recomandations are Laguna azul, volcan Quetrupillan waterfall (on osm : -39.51160, -71.75365) and estero aihue (39.47713° S, 71.88582° W) or Zanjón pino Huacho for clean water access and sleep under the stars ✨ Although siphon water from the bucket in the zanjon was hard but should be better after recent rains.. Water from the various glaciar rivers is way cleaner in the morning to be drunk. An interesting combo for people in need for a treat would be stopping in Termas Geometricas wich looks to be one of the best attraction of the region.. (20mil or so)
I luckily was granted with nice weather for Quetrupillan climb wich for me is really worth-it. Hopefully you get a lucky ride for the long descent from the centro de ski to Pucón. Take plenty of water if you start nobo !

* '''2023-Feb-22 to 2023-Feb-26 / 4 days / Hiking / OH-01 +03 Villarrica traverse (West-bound?) / Natalie & Tomáš '''

We did not end up following the GPT but instead ended up doing the Villarrica Traverse (so options 01 and 03 of GPT and then some more). It was our last trip before flights back home so ending directly in Pucón made the most sense, just sad that our last hike wasn't actually on the GPT...

Thoughts: Really beautiful, surprisingly diverse and not as many people as expected. The busiest place was at Laguna Azul and the glacier lookout. We are both very happy to have walked it and since it was our last hike, it was a pleasure to be on trails that allowed one to reflect rather than think about the next step. Highlights were the ease of the trails, vistas, Araucaria sillouettes, a return to volcanic landscapes, the crater of Quetrupillan and the forest canopy.

Access: Bus from Curarrehue to Puesco leaves at 5pm, just once a day. It leaves from here;-39.36321, -71.58433 and is white and green. Probably easier to hitch as it only goes to Puesco (aka CONAF). It leaves Puesco to Curarrehue at 730am supposedly.

Description: The traverse is well documented and therefore I will only explain two different side trips. Note that if coming from Puesco the last section between Chinnay camping and the ski hill is scarce of water because most water available is recommended not to drink due to high levels of ash in the melting glacier. The two good sources are; estero aihue; 39.47713° S, 71.88582° W and Zanjón pino Huacho, which is actually just a tap over a bucket; 39.43604° S, 71.99502° W. There is also an app you can use to follow the traverse; https://villarricatraverse.cl/

Camping at Laguna Azul is crowded (in the minds of a GPT hiker) so one can camp on a different beach or up high in the trees on the south side of the lake. Wild camping is supposedly illegal but does not seem to apply for the section of the traverse between Chinnay and the ski resort, there are many bivy spots.

Side trips:
First side trip, Volcán Quetrupillan:
If one is doing the traverse and wants to summit Quetrupillan easily and quickly I recommend following the osm trail on the NW side of the summit, there is a good trail, however we both did something different. Tomáš was successful at making a traverse of the summit and I was not. From lake Azul we followed the GPT option03 until the base of the col where one goes straight up to the crater. I continued on the GPT trail and turned back ~2m from the true summit due to the terrible rock quality but at least the way to the crater was easy (if you are there know that the red dirt is soft and not that steep). Tomáš on the other hand went one ridge further south and was able to easily follow it up to the summit, traverse south on the summit and come down on the osm trail. He notes there were only two bits of simple scrambling but was still easy despite having his bag. After my failed attempt on the summit I just went straight down the West side of the mountain to hit the normal Villarrica traverse and met back up with Tomáš [November 2024: Tomáš'es version is now in OSM and also in our suggestions to the Track files].

Second side trip, glacier Pichillancahue to above "glacier mirrado" and back to normal trail (the route is on OSM):
When coming from Chinnay there is a very obvious trailhead for Glaciar Pichillancahue. Tomáš used this to make a small but high traverse to somewhere near Estero Aihue and therefore avoiding the last bit of road walking and elevation loss. I was lazy and hungry and opted to have lunch at the camping Pichillancahue instead which was a terrible decision because the water there was barely drinkable (ash and dirt) and Tomáš supposedly had nice clean water up top [November 2024: it is in OSM,though you do no want to follow it all the way going west; you want to stay higher and traverse a bit, it is included in our suggestions to track files].

If it wasn't for bad weather I think this traverse could be done easily in 3 days, even two if you are efficient. We took 4 because we had one morning of rain and were in no need of rushing and did the sidetrips. However it would have been nice to have one more free day to rent gear and try to climb Villarrica, but the information on whether or not the summit is open all the way to the top was very confusing. Locals told us it was closed but you could go up most of the way if you had gear but then again there was a mountain guide who said we could go, so it will be a mystery. We both would love to come back to this area with simple glacier gear and climb Villarrica and Lanin and also go back to Sollipulli to traverse its glacier. For now it will have to wait :).

* '''2023-Feb-02 t 2023-Feb-05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Quetrupillan + OH-01 / Yannic & Mirjam '''

Very beautiful and easy stage. We hitchhiked from Panguipulli to Liquine and then via option 16-B to the camp at Laguna Azul. Very pleasant path in the forest with a slow ascent.
We stayed at the lagoon for 2 days and made a day trip to the volcano. The trail was not always easy because of the strong wind and the occasional snowfields. East of option 16-03 there is another way marked on the map, a little more to the east could be good, because then you avoid the two big snowfields that you see at the top.

From Laguna Azul we continued via Laguna Blanca on the Villarica Traverse (Option 16-01) to Laguna Las Avutardas. The road is well maintained and the landscape after the second pass is fascinatingly different from the previous one. Very nice camping spot at the lagoon.
From the primary road we caught a car to Curarrehue and from there a bus to Pucon.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks & Gabi '''

Started in Catripulli and hichhiked to 16km of RR. We found it as a good solution to skip road walking as it is not so attractive. Remember to take enough water with you because on ascent to Laguna Blanca there is only one silty river. This part is not so hard unless the temperature is high and you are walking like us in the midday. Probably the ascent road is going to be worst cos they are destroying the trail to build a road ( most probably - it doesn't look nice and it's quite annoying )
There is quite a new gate with old sign on 18,5km ( it looks like entrance to some private propertie with seperate plots), it was open so we just walked through and we didn't meet anyone to ask.

Plateau is really amazing, worth seeing and there are a lots of tiny streams near Laguna Blanca with clean water.
At Laguna Azul there are a lot of tourists sleeping there.
Descent was plesent until the road started.
The entire trail is well visible.
Down there there is community of mapuche, they are really nice and talkative. There is a chance that when going NOBO or sleeping on their land you will have to ask about permission to go through but it shouldn't be a problem.
We hitchhiked with one of them last 3 km of RR.

* '''2023-Jan-27 to 2023-Jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Quetrupillan / Will '''

I also came in through Catripulli. I caught two quick rides but was still left with three hours of hot uphill road walking. If you aren't worried about connecting footsteps I bet you could find a better start/end point. The other hikers out there (on the Villarrica traverse) were mostly ending at Puesco, I heard rumors of a bus there. Sounds like a much better route if the bus exists. This is marked as option 1.

Coming out of the woods the alpine section was beautiful but short. I spent two nights at Laguna Azul, taking a side trip up Quetrupillan. There were a lot of fun snowfields to navigate. My new shoes were grippy enough to get me through easily even though I didn't bring my trekking poles. Most of the water was chalky.

The final scramble up to the summit (after reaching the snow filled crater) was treacherous. Might not be worth it. I went up around the right because it looked like a more gradual climb but I had a few big solid looking boulders come loose and tumble down. The route straight up seems better.

Laguna Azul was bustling, both nights I was camped with a few Europeans doing the Villarrica traverse. Met a crazy dutch couple biking it. I even heard that there were some people visiting by helicopter, before I showed up.

At the end I walked down to Liquiñe, lots of food places along the road. I camped at the Termas de Punulaf (decent, 15000 pesos) before continuing onto section 17H (highly recommended!).

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-24 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Anna & Christopher'''

Catripulli - Reyehueico
Short and easy section!

From Pucón we took a bus at 19:30 to Catripulli (Buses Currarehue, last one leaves at 21:00). From there we hitchhiked to km 18 of the RR. We camped next to Estero Huililco (silty water as the others mentioned).

The next accessible water source is the ford of Estero Huililco at km 23. The walking until the plateau is easy (dirt roads and good paths), no navigation issues at all.
Around Laguna Blanca there was still some clear water of the snowmelt. Here walking got a bit tougher due to the sand, but the plateau really is beautiful. After Laguna Blanca there is a good, visible path again until Laguna Azul. We camped at the Laguna and had the first rainy/stormy night.

Because of the bad weather we didn't climb the volcano the next day and went down directly. It's a good path the whole way. Around 4 km before Reyehueico we got a ride directly to Panguipulli :)

* '''2023-Jan-03 to 2023-Jan-05 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

Route: Catripulli - Laguna Blanca - Laguna Azul - summit of Volcán Quetrupillan - Reyehueico

I found this section beautiful, and quite easy, since most of the time you are on 4x4 tracks or well-maintained CONAF trails. No navigation issues whatsoever.

Pucón is a bustling hiking town, great place to get new gear/shoes and resupply. I stayed a few days at Chili Kiwi Hostel there, highly recommend! Buses from Pucón to Catripulli and Curarrehue are very frequent, I did not have to wait.

I started in Catripulli because the road walk is shorter from there. I was very lucky and ended up getting a ride (without even trying) up to the end of the gravel road beyond Rinconada, where a wooden gate marks the start of a lovely forest trail. As others have mentioned, Río Huililco is quite silty, and although the trail follows this river a while, I didn't collect any water there. The first night I camped at the treeline before the final climb to Laguna Blanca (before the start of the CC section). I found some good water in the ravine east of the trail, but it required some bushwhacking down a steep hill covered in vegetation.

The plateau up by Laguna Blanca is beautiful, there are multiple creeks feeding the lake — some of them are silty, but others are clear, just pure snowmelt. The cross-country section had a nice path running through most of it, so navigation was very easy. Between Laguna Blanca and Laguna Azul, there are still some snow patches, but they are easy to walk across or around.

I dropped most of my gear off at Laguna Azul to climb the volcano. I started around 11 a.m. and got back at 4 p.m., this included an almost hour-long break at the top to take in the spectacular views of Volcán Villarrica and Volcán Lanín. There's still a fair bit of snow on Quetrupillan, and instead of following the GPS I went up my own way to the rim, avoiding most of the snowfields. The crater is filled with snow, it's awesome! Coming back down, I half ran, half slid down a giant snow field, which was a lot of fun. That night I went for a swim and camped at Laguna Azul, a beautiful spot. For the first time on the GPT, there were other people (local tourists) camped with me there!

The rest of the trail down to Reyehueico is easy, downhill through a mature forest. Once you get to Trafún Chico, the trail becomes a gravel road. I was able to hitch the last couple kilometers to the main road, and get a ride to Panguipulli to resupply and head down to GPT19 after.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan-01 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + summit of Quetrupillan / Molly og Melissa '''

5 days - including a very short day due to bad weather
We were passed by a car on the gravel road shortly after Reyehueico. They told us that the place marked as camp on the GPS was closed, but we could camp on their land a little before on the place marked bridge. They wanted 5000 pesos per person, and there are no facilities, so we found it a little expensive but didn't want to discuss in the rain. They also sold us freshly baked bread which were huge and the best we have had so far, as well as sopaipillas. The gravel road here was pretty, but a lot of aggressive dogs who could easily crawl under their fences to follow us. We only had to climb one gate which seemed to be more to keep in cows than to keep out any hikers. At the waypoint gate there was nothing.
We camped right before the waypoint water before Laguna Azul.
At Laguna Azul there are two camp waypoints, the first is a little spot on the river bank, the second is the "real" camp with lots of spots in a little forest right next to the lake. It's nice, but there have been left a lot of garbage.

From there, you follow the Villarica traverse trail for some kilometres through very beautiful landscapes. When you reach the valley where Lago Blanco is (it really is white), you leave the trail for some fairly easy cross-country around the lake. On the far side, the whole valley was covered in water and we had to walk barefoot, but it was after three very rainy days.
Finding the path at treeline was a little difficult, but we just made sure to be right on the trail on the GPS and found it. Then followed a short trip through beautiful aucaria forest, followed by a gravel road. Here, we saw several "no entrar" signs meant for people going towards the national park, but there was no one around. We even asked for water while still in the no entrar-zone as we didn't know, and weren't told off. It was difficult to find a campsite, but at La Rinconada there was a house saying "Es bienvenido aquí", maybe you could ask there.
We accidentally walked to catripulli instead of currarehue as we missed the turn off and realized too late.

Water:
Until Laguna Azul, no problem. At Lago Blanco we didn't find any streams that weren't chalky, though we thought that some streams running down the mountain on the far right side might look better. We didn't investigate, though, as we thought we had enough. However, Estero Huilinco was the same, so we ended up asking at a house if we could get some water.

Summit:
We basecamped at Laguna Azul and followed the nicely marked trail up. Be aware that the summit route diverges after about a kilometre, with no trail to be seen. We followed the GPS for a while but decided to walk to the crater rim somewhere else, as the summit seemed more difficult and the height difference isn't that big anyway. The volcano itself looked a lot like Volcan Puyehue, but the views were different of course, and the crater had a lot more snow. It was great to spend an extra day above the treeline.

* '''2021-Dec-05 to 2021-Dec-07 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex Abramov '''

We made Villarrica Traverse here. This traverse is an excellent variant to go in (out) to (from) GPT.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Matthieu'''

From Liquiñe to Catripulli
Following the RR, I personnally never had to cross any barriers of barbed wire or closed portals. It is all an official CONAF trail.
I used Lago Azul as a base camp to do the ascent of the summit. Awesome place.
A little cheer to Ty, America and Sanita with who we had (I assume) the biggest GPT hikers camp of the year !

-The ascent:
Better use your head than your GPS, avoiding the snow to go up. The path I took was finally closed to the OH 002, going between the snow fields, but I never crossed any trail road.
The very end is quite steepy and the rocks easy to break, and you have to climb a little bit to arrive to the final cairn. Better do it with good weather conditions and without your big bag ! I wasnt confident with going down the same way, so at the cairn I just took directly west down the rocks and actually found a downhill of good sand, really easy to do, fast and safe. No climbing down this way. I joined my previous tracks after, near the OH 002.

-Water supply:
As Ty say, No water between the end of Lago Blanco and a little bit before the Estero Huililco. The track is easy and fast thow in the forest, and I didnt take more water supply going down.

I didnt do the final forest part just before Currarehue, hitchhiking to Catripulli.

* '''2020-Feb-27 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Catripulli Start & Optional end to Conaripe / Ty & America '''

We started at Catripulli because it was a bit shorter road walk compared to Curarrehue. Be aware of the big waterless start. You do have (mostly) friendly people on the road who are more than welcome to help with water. After Comunidad Rinconada (maps.me) don’t expect any water (besides the extremely chalky river water) all the way up to Laguna Blanco. Small Water falls on the right side of the lake have great clear water. We camped at Laguna Blanco by said falls a bit off the track file to find shelter from the wind. Then camped at Laguna azul the next day to summit the following morning. Beautiful place. Actual summit is sketchy, so we hiked to the rim and were perfectly content with that. I don’t recommend taking the optional OH-TL-V@16-02-#002 over the pass. It looked sketchy/snowy. The optional a bit further was perfectly fine. On the way down to conripe on OH-TL-V@16-02-#003 there is a good place to camp by water with plenty of wood ~1.5 km after the marked water source. We had luck hitching a ride from the termas at the bottom right to Conripe.

* '''2020-Feb-7 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

3 days for this amazing section. Trail in good condition, no navigation difficulties. At 39°23'11"S 71°37'48"W, where it says "se vende leña eucalyptus", we didn't climb the huge locked gate to our right but just continued the minor road. We passed two unlocked gates and got back to the regular route after 1km. Shortly afterwards we arrived at a high fence of seven strands of barbed wire, where we turned left into the forest, following an almost invisible path, and after 500m finally found a gate and got back to the regular route after 1km.

* '''2020-Feb-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

Came from GPT15, resupplied @ 2 supermarkets in Curarrehue. Going up from Curarrehue they are logging in the forest but track still clear. Went over the fence with 7 strands of barb wire. Later there is a wooden gate saying 'No Entry Residents Only' went over it onto track, no one around. When you cross the Estero Huilico fill up with water. You can wade it but if you go down on the left about 20 metres there is a footbridge hidden in the forest. Later you are near the river but it is in a gorge with dense vegetation so it's not accessible. Made a dry camp high up in the forest before the lakes. Hardly any snow left on the route.

Near the end of the route there is no place to camp at 'Camp 119' but continue a little down the road & there is a tiny field just before 'Bridge 51' where you can camp. Just before it the road goes round in a loop, on the lower part of the loop are two houses next to each other. Ask there if it's OK to camp by the bridge. Just after the bridge I continued straight to the main road (marked bus, shop) to resupply. However, it's not necessary to do that, if you continue on the RR you will find shops in Liquine.

* '''2019-Nov-13 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liquiñe to where the trail joins the S-947 / Sophie & Hendrik '''

We were 7 days on the trail, of which 2 were just camping out bad weather (23 walking hours) . First day we started late and went to what the first camp on the map. Next we went to the camp without water from the track files (We found some stream there. After filtering amd treading it with chloride we were able to drink it.) We stayed there one day, waiting for better weather. Next day we went to the Fort at Laguna Azul. However, we did not cross it until two days later, as we first waited for better weather conditions. Then we crossed the volcano and camped below the treeline on the other side. Last day we hiked to S-947 and hitchhiked to Pucón for some Food and a real bed.

What we liked: Sudden changes of landscapes, beautiful Araucaria forrest, remoteness (didn't meet people for 5 days), breathtaking views and scenes on the volcano, the snow was beautiful (obviously depends on the season), the many plushy chilean tarantulas on the north side.

What we did not like so much: The gravel roads on both ends of the section.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tom & Maddie'''

No issues, trail in good condition and cross country section is not hard to navigate. We took a bus out to Panguipulli at 08:00 on a weekday. We decided to skip 17 and 18. We then bussed to Los Lagos and then Futron and then to Rininahue. We then got a hitch back onto the regular route of 19 37km in. Less than 8hrs off the trail to skip 17/18.

* '''2020-Jan-31 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH-02 Start from Termas el Rincon (Conaripe) to Currarehue / Jean & Virginie'''

To start the option track (16-02) after el Rincon termas, we have to pass a gate closed but it was possible to pass on the left. We didnt see anyone inside.
After few kilometers on the minor road in good condition, we pass a small house where the guy explained us the track (turn on thé right at the arrow marked Laguna to get on the trail - track a little bit different from the gpt route but that join it further). After we went up on Quetrupillan volcano with amazing view. Trail in good condition and easy to navigate. This option join the regular route at the laguna Azul, nice site to camp. After the cross country section was not difficult to follow and the end until Currarehue was alternation of (a bit) overgrown trails and minor roads (+ some barbed wire).
Bus to Pucon every 20 min from Currarehue.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019-Nov-18 / Sophie & Hendrik'''

90% - 95% of the area from 1500m upwards are completely covered in snow. Think about snow shoes and be careful as there are melting streams covered and hidden by snow.
Also, unlike us, keep in mind that snow reflects the sun and can cause burns from below on your nose and chin.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Kara Davis'''

Follow the main road, 199-CH, south out of Curarrehue until the gravel road turn off, S-981. After several kilometers, the road transitions to single track through a eucalyptus forest. Be careful to not follow one of the several other tracks that wind through the forest. The trail exits onto a gravel road, S-947, that follows Estero Huilico. Turn off onto a 4WD track, but be aware there are several other 4WD track spurs. The trail narrows into an obvious single track as you enter Parque Nacional Villarrica. Be prepared for the possibility of snow during this section at higher elevations. At treeline the trail ends and the cross-country traverse begins.
This cross-country traverse follows the volcanic landscape at the base of Volcán Quetrupillán. During high snow years, Laguna Blanca may be frozen and snow covered. Be aware that snowpack may make parts of the GPS route difficult, and keep safety in mind when choosing a route. Instead of following the recommended route which ascends through a chute, snowpack forced us to climb up to a pass further to the left and then rejoin the route. Depending on the time of year, Laguna Azul may also be frozen, but water is available at the stream crossing at the southern end. After beginning the descent into the forest, try and find a well maintained trail. The trail joins a dirt road, T-447, which continues until the paved highway, 201-CH, to Carringue.
Town: Carriringue.
Carriringue is a tiny town with a small market which offers snacks but is difficult to resupply out of. There are also several signs advertising Cabañas.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Pucón:
About 30 minutes bus ride off trail. A hiking tourism town that has everything a hiker might need. Very good resupply option in Pucón if you're doing the Villarica Traverse option: República Granel. They have a big selection of dry foods like nuts, seeds, fruit, spices, etc. Really valuable for hikers and not too expensive!

*Catripulli:
A little down the road from Currarehue. Has two small shops which probably sell pastas and other basic stuff

*Currarehue:
You can rent a cabin for 50 000 pesos (ask at supermercado Katty) (February 2025 - Peggy)

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

Quentin : Currarehue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

You can buy bread and sopaipillas at the house right before the "bridge" waypoint just before Reyehueico.

A house in La Rinconada sells eggs

Some Aucaria trees

=Transport to and from Route=

2022-Jan:
Busses go from Panguipulli to Reyehueico on weekdays, and from Valdivia to Panguipulli (two hours bus ride) every day. Hitching was quite easy for us even though it was raining.

The bus from Currarehue through Catripulli to Pucón leaves approximately every 15 minutes on weekdays, and every 30 minutes on weekends - goes in both directions - about 30 minutes

(2020-Feb)

Bus Pucón - Curarrehue

Mo-Sa 11:00

Su 12:15

Operator Igi Llaima, Terminal, Palguín 550

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT16 - Volcán Quetrupillan]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172879.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Lanín]] from GPT16]]
[[File:Quetrupillan 01.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Quetrupillán]] from GPT16]]
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (1).jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 16]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226459.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226460.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226461.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226462.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226596.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173354.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172977.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173084.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226451.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT13 (Laguna Icalma)

2026-03-30T21:12:01Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2026-03-30T21:10:34Z

Gharvey: /* Season 2025/26 */