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GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-12-31T10:48:08Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-12-09: Track file update 2025 Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT09 Regular Route: Based on route verifications and recommendations from the previous season I rerouted the Regular Route onto the ridge (previously Option 3). This reduces road walking and the ridge route is without doubt more scenic. In instable or poor weather best stay in the valley (now Option 4, was regular route till season 2024/25).

==Season 2025/26==

'''2025-12-26 to 2025-12-27 / 2x 0.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Connected to GPT 09 from GPT 08 option 04 in the afternoon. Being sick as a dog I choose the slightly less demanding Option 04. Option 04 is still very nice.

Found a nice campsite at [37.625119, 71.246509]

New puesto? at [ 37.516549, 71.251260]

Day 02

Awoke feeling slightly better, continued on my way to Trappa Trappa, during the decent I met fellow GPT hiker (or cyclist) Sebastian pushing his bicycle up the path. We chatted for a while before I went onto Trappa Trappa.

Entered the town at noon to find everything crossed due to a indigenous religious ritual called Ngillatung (spelling uncertain), a Mapuche ceremony where they stay in their huts for three days, eat and smoke some “weed” as I understood it.

The hospital offers accommodation (tent site, water and wifi) for anyone. I, however, was lucky however and met the scouts currently in the area doing volunteer work — bringing Christmas presents to the children of the local community. They invited me for lunch, the Christmas party and dinner. Very friendly group of people.

I pitched my tent in the schoolyard, made a contribution to their cause and fell asleep at midnight after a long day of partying. Not the best cure against sickness but opportunities like these do not come around often. Anyways, continued on GPT 10 in the morning and probably more, that is yet to be seen.

''' GPT09/2025-12-17 to 2025-12-19/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/option 1/RR/ Denis and Robert '''

Before leaving Abanico we stoped in Roca Cafe. The owner was really nice he is outdoor lover. Besides cafe he offers Refugios for 27 000 pesos with hot tub. Dinner or lunch possible for 6 000 pesos.
We didn’t pay anything, at the gate to National Park young guy asked for a plan we told him that we want to sleep in pas between Antuco and Sierra Velluda, and possibly climb Antico next morning. On google translator he wrote us that we don’t need to pay because we are just going through and not spending night in NP area.
It took us 4 hours from the pass up and down with 50 minutes break on top. Early in the morning the snow was hard so with microspikes to went pretty nice, but the slide lines were sketchy. Way down was even harder because the snow was softer. It wasn’t that difficult but we were happy for microspikes.
Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.

Difficulty 3,5/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.08.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (New Re-route) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

(Continued from Section GPT08 log - middle of Day 5)

We joined the GPT09 RR ca. 28.2km - A decent trail continued all the way to Rio de los Pinos which we forded at this point (-37.51706, -71.24997) it’s a long but shallow ford and the water temperature was actually very pleasant. After the ford there is a minor road for a short bit and then some CC/cow trails to get to X {09} [34.9/1495].

Big dark clouds were gathering on the Argentinian side, we hoped that we will escape them by going up the valley following the now new RR. At the Puesto {09} [37.6/1543] there was a friendly family and the man let us through the 3 gates to get to the ford just below (-37.54347, -71.25271). The RR passes right through his property. He explained to us that the better trail goes on the other side of the valley, which matched with the RR. Since we felt a bit rushed by the brewing storm behind us we didn’t really chat to the man and didn’t even find out his name unfortunately.
The trail was really good for a GPT standard and there was a cool waterfall on the way (-37.56195, -71.27035) with a place to swim just below (we unfortunately didn’t). Also the area around the trail especially higher up in the valley seemed to have had quite a few bush/forest fires.
Our goal for today was to get to the waypoint “Camp ? {09} [41.8/1705” Just before we got there it started to rain and when we did get there, there was no campsite just bushes and spiky tufed grass. It was a shame because we had earlier passed a nice sheltered looking place in trees just before around this area (-37.56669, -71.27521)
However we didn’t want to return so we walked onwards a bit and found somewhat sheltered spot among the bushes on a slightly sloping ground and it had a small side stream right by it. I wouldn’t recommend the spot as there were better places further up the valley as we learned the next day.
Lightning thunder and heavy rain kept things exciting for quite a few hours until it died down before midnight, the night was somewhat peaceful.

Day 6 - Our morning alarm was the thunder that started rumbling before 7am, it was back! By the time we were done with breakfast and packing it started to rain. We considered heading back to the road Q45 and hitching to Antuco but the thought of being all wet and miserable potentially for hours didn’t appeal much so we opted to wait it out in the tent.
Garmin forecast showed there should be a few hour weather window around midday. It stopped raining around 11:30 and the sky got a bit brighter. We decided to stick with our original plan and gun for the ridge route which is now the RR to Trapa Trapa.

We started walking around 13:00 and the good trail continued, when we got to around “Camp ? {09} [43.3/1890]” we could see the ridge where we had to go and a way to get there but the RR suggested we continue up the valley for a few km and then ridge walk back to get to that point. We wanted to get to Trapa Trapa by daylight so we opted for a direct attack (slow crawl) towards the ridge. From around the marked camp - and there were definitely some camp spots in the area with a small stream in the meadow, we aimed for the burned bushes on the hillside across. Through a slightly wet meadow and then we opted for a 30 m Bush Bash to get to a clearer area behind it. From my satellite images I couldn’t see it then but I can see it now that there probably is a trail going through the bushes further on if we would have kept skirting along to somewhere around here (-37.56999, -71.29519). Once we did our BB we picked up the trail which took us in the direction where we had initially planned to go.
From a bot higher up we could see a puesto here (-37.56909, -71.30161) and on Google Maps it is marked as “Cajon gutarda” - “summer camp organizer”
We continued on the newly found trail until we were just below the ridge with the less steep ground and less bushes above us and then went straight for the ridge which we reached and rejoined the RR around here (-37.57952, -71.29323). In total I believe this “variant” saved us about 2.5km and some valuable time.

Once on the ridge it was straightforward CC to the “Summit {09} [49.1/2381]” from which the panorama was incredible, we could see from Volcá Chillán to Volcán Callaqui and all the high snowy summits in between.
From the summit we continued down to a pass (-37.61173, -71.26537). However already on the way down we could see from above that there were some trails passing on the side of the mountain towards the pass. We could also see a small lake/pond (-37.60329, -71.26681) with a large flat area around it, definitely a camp spot with water if you want to break up the ridge walk and the weather permits it.
Following with our eyes to where approximately the trail leads from the little lake, in the distance we could see some structure here (-37.58957, -71.25816) possibly a puesto? And on the satellite image now I can see that there is a trail from there connecting to the road of Option 4 below. That would definitely be an easier and a quicker way to gain the ridge. An option worth investigating?
Because we initially were considering variant D but since we got there late in the afternoon it would have meant we would have had to camp somewhere around “Ford {09-D} [0.9/1512]” to then go for the ridge the next day. And from the distance Variant D looked very steep and not very inviting to be honest.

Continuing along the ridge we picked up the trail going towards the pass that I mentioned before and though it was very faint at times it was possible to follow it, sometimes it was the scratches on the rocks from the horse shoes that showed the way. This faint trail pretty much continued across two more passes along the ridge. First to this pass/saddle (-37.62817, -71.25821) and from here instead of going up an over the steep and unnecessary climb like the RR suggests an actual trail skirted nicely around it on the west side you can see it clearly on the sattelite image. On the way it passed a spring somwhere around here (-37.63423, -71.25954). At least judging by the wet green swampy area around it I believe it was a spring and not a result of the heavy rains earlier in the day, there was a small stream with flowing water. Right after that it connects to what almost seems to be a road going over the pass that then connects the Variant E to the RR. On the pass there was also a spring (3rd and last water along the ridge) and a really good campsite with flat soft short grass and dry ground below it. This is where I would have loved to camp if I knew before and of course if the weather permited.

From this pass the trail sort of fizzled out and it was more or less CC once again. We didn’t exactly follow the gpx of the RR but mostly what seemed to be some animal tracks. And we skirted between the two knolls over a mini saddle and skirted along to the next mini saddle without loosing elevation like the RR suggests but it was on a steep muddy slope at times, perhaps actually going a little uphill and staying on the ridge would have been better. The ridge here actually splits into two separate, we of course followed the one that RR suggested and it also got a bit more interesting, it got a lot narrower and more rocky. Though it looked very exciting from the distance it was still pretty easy, and you could go around the rocks on the east side where necessary.

Around here we heard our friend Thunder was back, right behind us brewing up another nasty. Though this time we were even more determined to win this race. We pushed onwards to the next saddle along the ridge where Variant F joins the RR where we picked up a nice and easy trail that pretty much carried us all the way to Trapa Trapa. On the way we saw the Variant H trail coming up to join the RR and a puesto right besides it (-37.66803, -71.24238)

Since we were racing to outrun the thunderstorm and get to Trapa Trapa we didn’t really look for or investigate the Variant I trail, the RR was super good enough.
To mention a few extra waypoints along the RR: A possible Camp without water around this area (-37.69263, -71.24922) and a small ford here (-37.69691, -71.25383) it was possible to cross it with dry feet but the water was murky probably due to heavy rains earlier in the day.
Also, there is now a fence here (-37.70568, -71.26387) but the path is redirected nicely in between two property fences and channels you onto the same road that the RR comes to just a slightly different way.

We got to Trapa Trapa around 19:30 it looked very quiet there. The Posta de Salud Rural Trapa Trapa wifi now had a password and since it was closed we couldn’t use the wifi. We had no interest in staying in the accommodation there or visiting the shop, we wanted to get to Los Angeles for some proper resupply and rest. So we started walking down the road hoping to at least get to the Termas Nitrao hot springs (-37.69241, -71.29524) for the night. But after less than a km of walking a pickup truck picked us up and brought us to Cauñicu which is where the Chilean road maintenance crew that picked us up was heading for their night. They told us Termas Nitrao cost about 4k CLP pp and that you can camp there but we can’t confirm that.
In Cauñicu we stayed in a very basic campsite here (-37.71099, -71.48273) called Camping y Cabañas Margarita - 6k CLP pp. There was also a roadside “cafe” called Kawello Ko (-37.71329, -71.48313) where we got some large “sopapillas con palta” for dinner. They also sold some completos, soft drinks and some home made nut mixes.

From what we could gather from the locals there are usually 2 buses one at around 6:40 and another one just before 7:00. We got on the bus around 6:40 and the bus was already full and we were standing all the way to Ralco (Alto BioBio) and more people kept packing on the bus. So it’s probably better to get on the bus somewhere earlier.
Bus to Los Angeles costs 3.5k CLP pp and takes about 3h from Cauñicu, it stops for a 10 min coffee break in Santa Barbara.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 19th 2025 – Dec 23th 2025 / 4.5 days (including 1 rest day) / NOBO / Option 4, Variant D, RR, Variant B, RR / Matt&Linda '''

Day 1: With a late start in Trapa Trapa and bad weather coming in the following day we decided to take Option 4. The ascent along the river in the cool of the afternoon was quite nice, easy path. We met a lot of Pehuenche and arrieros coming down from the pass. We said our hellos but no one stopped long enough to talk. The pass and the high, open valley that followed was so beautiful. I was sad we had to rush through it a little. We camped at a closed puesto (Camp 09-04 [9.5/1709]).

Day 2: we started early to beat the rain. Stopped for breakfast at a nice site that isn’t in the GPS files with wooden benches and tables a couple of meters off the trail (S 37°34.568, W71° 14.489), could be a nice campsite?! The path was very comfortable to hike and we enjoyed the valley. The fords were no problem for us, could do most of them with dry feet. There is a little metal bridge right by a puesto to cross the Rio de los Pinos here: S 37° 31.047, W 71° 15.071. Closer to Laguna de la Laja we finally got our feet wet but the water only went up to our knees. We set up our camp on the riverbank, trying to find a sheltered spot for 1.5 days of rain. Found a good spot and build a little fire pit here: S37° 29.090, W71° 16.148

Day 3: rainy rest day

Day 4: incredible day! We abandoned the straight line of the CC Section between Laguna Laja and Ruta Q45 and headed more towards the police building (Police 09-C [1.1/1475]). We ended up standing in front of the old bus-turned-diner that has been mentioned in the logs before (S37° 27.996, W71° 19.154). When we arrived, a young man called Jurgen greeted us, opened the doors to the bus and got a whiteboard with the menu written on it. They serve churrasco, barros luco, empanadas, sopaipilla, spring rolls, pizzas and drinks. You can get wifi for 5000cp. The sandwiches were good, empanadas and sopaipillas store bought, didn’t try the rest. I’ll add a picture of menu/prices. We talked to Jurgen a bit and heard that they are about to open a restaurant in the container house they built right next to the bus. They also want to develop more (campsites, rooms, bike rental, quad drives, something similar to paintball). We went on our way on Variant B to reconnect with the RR. Note: on Variant B you have to ford the river whereas you wouldn’t have to following the RR, crossing the bridge on Q45! We didn’t mind, though. It was a windy day but the pass was no problem, the trail is relatively good to follow on the southern side. I had a small hope to summit Volcán Antuco but with fresh snow and those winds I quickly discarded it. The views of Antuco and Velluda were incredible nonetheless! We enjoyed our time exploring the lava field on the northern side and eventually set up camp at the “amphitheatre” but not at the campsite marked in OSM. We just pitched our tent close to the river here: S37° 25.427, W71° 24.952. Beautiful views, highly recommend!!! We arrived there on Dec 22nd and we were expecting to meet some people but we got to spend yet another night in solitude.

Day 5: we hiked the last couple of km down to the park ranger on good and well marked trails in the morning. The trail ends before the office, as far as we could tell. There was no one around who asked us for a permit or a fee. We hitchhiked into Antuco without a problem. Due to tendon issues we had to make the call to end our adventures on the GPT for now. A big thanks to Jan Dudeck, David Brophy and all the others who contributed to making the GPT happen for so many people!

Final note: We hadn’t planned to be in town for Christmas and found last minute accommodations with an unbelievably open and welcoming family in Huépil. It took us about 2 hours to reach it by bus (Antuco – Canteras – Huépil, 4000cp total). It is probably too far from the trailhead if you only want to stay the night but we can highly recommend “El mercadito de Pamela” if you want to be pampered with good and abundant local food by a lovely family. We couldn’t believe our luck to be asked to join the Christmas feast and be part of preparing “Chivo al Palo” with Pamela and her family.

Difficulty: 2/5

Attractiveness: 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-15 to 2025-04-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Peggy

After staying 2 nights at Mireya and her family’s place in Trapa Trapa (lodging point km0.3) due to the rain, I left re-stocked with food bought from the family (noodles, jam, boiled eggs, bread, and sopapillas).
Note: in Trapa Trapa, mobile network only with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, Wi-Fi at the health center (posta de salud, in the center – no password needed, connection accessible from outside).

The day I left, Belissario, the man of the family and an arriero, was also heading back up to his puesto to fetch his cows. He invited me to his puesto by the estero for the evening. I ended up staying until the day after that, letting a day of light rain and wind pass. Quiet moments of sharing and mutual respect. Chaltumay 🙏

As with the other sections (12, 11, and 10) done in April, all the puestos I passed were closed.

Once past the ruta Q-45, it’s easier to cross the river (first ford not marked as such on the map in April 2025, with a puesto on the other side – 37.516956, 071.250529) by following vehicle tracks and thus going through the “bao” (river crossing for vehicles and animals); rather than following the GPS track.

It’s really worth taking the RR and not variant C unless you’re in a hurry and want to hitchhike...

I slept not far from the araucaria solitaria, a bit set back from the river to avoid the humidity on top of the cold. My tent and sleeping bag were still frozen in the morning, but I felt less humidity than I would have if I had camped closer to the water.

The next day, descent to Antuco via the pass, between Volcán Velluda and Volcán Antuco. Beautiful area (cold and windy at this time of year), then an impressive lava field. Upon reaching the amphitheater, I met a few people who had come as far as the waterfall at its end.
I hesitated to stay the night there but it was still early, and although I’m happy that people come to see one of the beauties of their country, I tend to enjoy solitude and avoid crowded places.

So I descended to Antuco that evening and spent the night for 15k at Hostal Puelche in Antuco (there are also cabañas, but I don’t know the price – 985776984).

For me, that marked the end of 3.5 months on the GPT for this season…
Thank you to Jan and everyone, present and past, who have walked this path and shared their experiences, those I met – especially Dorota for her friendship and shared journey – and Tomáš and Natalie for the few options I followed (and for those I didn’t get to follow but that still remain in my mind).

''' 2025-FEB- 13 to FEB 17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Emilie and Henry'''

Day 1: I slept close to the park ranger station the day prior, camping on the side of the road, a little bit hidden close to a stream to be able to get an early start. I disclosed my plans to go to trapa trapa to conaf and after filling out a paper and showing my day pass bought online I started on the road. A few kms in a car stopped next to me with someone asking me if I was the Canadian that registered to go to trapa trapa, I said yes; a fellow Canadian GPT hiker! I hopped in the Uber he took to the trail head with him and we decided to hike together. Henry (that’s his name) and I decided to start the hike together, and see if our rhythm matched and asses if we would continue. We hiked all day and camped at (S 37.458403° O 71.346766°).

Day 2: Henry wanted to hike to volcan antuco summit, which I had considered but discarded because I didn’t want to do it alone, but I was keen on doing it together. It took us 12 hours total, with 2x 20 mins break uphill and a 30 min break on the summit. We got back at camp around 8:30pm as the sun was setting. We took the track / footway that starts at (S 37.460320° O 71.313438° ) The hike up is long, especially after the first plateau, a lot of scrambling and a few 100ms on snowy ice which we did without ice gear but should not be attempted alone as it is relatively steep and dangerous. We went very slowly and we made it to the top. We admitted to each other that this was not the safest way we could’ve done this and went equally as slow to go down. Crampons would’ve helped A LOT. We came down via Oh-cc-a 09-01 (0.0+4.3) and camped at the same spot as the night before, where we had left our tents.

Day 3 : we continued passed the Refugio/military base and stayed on Ruta Q-45 hoping to get picked up (Which eventually happened) and driven until (S 37.526480° O 71.244377°) where we went back on the RR. We slept at (S 37.599160° O 71.243858°) near a puesto. We asked permission to the family on site to sleep next to the rio near them and they accepted. They were so so kind and we chatted and asked if we could buy some eggs and flour from them, and they proceeded to give us a bag with 8 eggs, flour, a tuna can and cookies. We paid them but they refused, shoving the money back into our bags. The next morning we wrote them a note with a drawing, heart-fully thanking them again . In retrospect we wish we had put money in the letter because they didn’t open it until we walked away, and next time that’s what we’ll do.

Day 4: after leaving the puesto we finished walking to trapa trapa, where we went to the store (S 37.712410° O 71.256369° ) to buy a few snacks and a ramen and hiked back a km or two to camp at (S 37.710964° O 71.249438°). We ended up being on private property (our mistake) and were confronted by the owner but he didn’t mind at all. We had a small fire going and he said something along the lines of “it’s to cold for such a small fire” and proceeded to throw a huge bundle of wood on. So all in all a good hearted exchange.

The next day we continued on gpt 10, together!

* ''' 2025-FEB-19 > 21 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Arno'''

| Weather : sunny and hot
| water : no issues
| snow : no
| Interest : 5/5
| Difficulty : 3/5
| Danger : none

Day 1
Started the hike from Antuco then the bus took me after 8km to the starting point of the section.

The first kilometers on the road are not interesting so I hitched. A super friendly arrieros family took me all the way in the park. It’s too bad my Spanish was not better so I could joke with them. The man is called Marco and knows everyone around.

They drove me past the park entrance which was useful as there was a guard probably checking for entry tickets. He let us through.

I took the option variant around the volcan following the road.

There are insane camp spots all around the laguna.

Day 2
Followed the path on the dirt road. Rather nice and easy walk. Camped along the road not far from puestos.

Day 3
The descent in the forest is very much enjoyable.
From Trapatrapa I hitched to Alto bobio.

* '''2024-02-03 - 2024-02-04/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and option 1 / Elijah and Michael '''

Option 1 Volcan Antuco entails relatively moderate angle perennial snowfield. Option 1A has no snow, ascent is direct and on lava rock.

Red shop in Trapa Trapa currently has biscuits, snacks and drinks, no pasta, ramen, etc.

Accomodation in Trapa Trapa at waypointed lodging was 65000 CLP for two persons including dinner, breakfast and 500g of harina tostada. Highly recommended.

*2025-02-12 to 2025-02-15 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Laguna Laja National Park - Sendero Sierra Velluda - ruta Q45 - Trapa Trapa / Paula & Ramon 🇧🇷
Day 1 (7 km): Entrance of Laguna Laja National Park - Amphitheatre Campsite (1540 msnm) 
As we passed through the national park control, we bought the entrance to the Park online at www.pasesparques.cl/ (it is not possible to buy on the spot). Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.426734, -71.414157): the water point is a little far from the camping area.
Day 2 (16 km): Amphitheatre (1540 msnm) - ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) 
Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.491905, -71.292664)
Day 3 (23 km): ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) - Paso near Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) 
Nice and easy path. We hitchhiked for about 7 km. Camping at (-37.652843, -71.233232) on a beautiful lawn with some water flowing in a streams. 
Day 4 (12 km): Paso Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) - Trapa Trapa (950 msnm). 
Easy path. At the health center in Trapa Trapa there was open Wi-Fi and a bathroom. We hitchhiked to the Nitrao Hot Springs (-37.692406, -71.295236), and the next day we took a bus from Malla Malla (-37.697741, -71.317649) to Los Angeles.

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky. No snow, no fords worth mentioning.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked minimarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-12-31T10:46:53Z

Hoscheid-l: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-12-09: Track file update 2025 Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT09 Regular Route: Based on route verifications and recommendations from the previous season I rerouted the Regular Route onto the ridge (previously Option 3). This reduces road walking and the ridge route is without doubt more scenic. In instable or poor weather best stay in the valley (now Option 4, was regular route till season 2024/25).

==Season 2025/26==

'''2025-12-26 to 2025-12-27 / 2x 0.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Connected to GPT 09 from GPT 08 option 04 in the afternoon. Being sick as a dog I choose the slightly less demanding Option 04. Option 04 is still very nice.

Found a nice campsite at [37.625119, 71.246509]

New puesto? at [ 37.516549, 71.251260]

Day 02

Awoke feeling slightly better, continued on my way to Trappa Trappa, during the decent I met fellow GPT hiker (or cyclist) Sebastian pushing his bicycle up the path. We chatted for a while before I went onto Trappa Trappa.

Entered the town at noon to find everything crossed due to a indigenous religious ritual called Ngillatung (spelling uncertain), a Mapuche ceremony where they stay in their huts for three days, eat and smoke some “weed” as I understood it.

The hospital offers accommodation (tent site, water and wifi) for anyone. I, however, was lucky however and met the scouts currently in the area doing volunteer work — bringing Christmas presents to the children of the local community. They invited me for lunch, the Christmas party and dinner. Very friendly group of people.

I pitched my tent in the schoolyard, made a contribution to their cause and fell asleep at midnight after a long day of partying. Not the best cure against sickness but opportunities like these do not come around often. Anyways, continued on GPT 10 in the morning and probably more, that is yet to be seen.

''' GPT09/2025-12-17 to 2025-12-19/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/option 1/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
Before leaving Abanico we stoped in Roca Cafe. The owner was really nice he is outdoor lover. Besides cafe he offers Refugios for 27 000 pesos with hot tub. Dinner or lunch possible for 6 000 pesos.
We didn’t pay anything, at the gate to National Park young guy asked for a plan we told him that we want to sleep in pas between Antuco and Sierra Velluda, and possibly climb Antico next morning. On google translator he wrote us that we don’t need to pay because we are just going through and not spending night in NP area.
It took us 4 hours from the pass up and down with 50 minutes break on top. Early in the morning the snow was hard so with microspikes to went pretty nice, but the slide lines were sketchy. Way down was even harder because the snow was softer. It wasn’t that difficult but we were happy for microspikes.
Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.

Difficulty 3,5/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.08.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (New Re-route) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

(Continued from Section GPT08 log - middle of Day 5)

We joined the GPT09 RR ca. 28.2km - A decent trail continued all the way to Rio de los Pinos which we forded at this point (-37.51706, -71.24997) it’s a long but shallow ford and the water temperature was actually very pleasant. After the ford there is a minor road for a short bit and then some CC/cow trails to get to X {09} [34.9/1495].

Big dark clouds were gathering on the Argentinian side, we hoped that we will escape them by going up the valley following the now new RR. At the Puesto {09} [37.6/1543] there was a friendly family and the man let us through the 3 gates to get to the ford just below (-37.54347, -71.25271). The RR passes right through his property. He explained to us that the better trail goes on the other side of the valley, which matched with the RR. Since we felt a bit rushed by the brewing storm behind us we didn’t really chat to the man and didn’t even find out his name unfortunately.
The trail was really good for a GPT standard and there was a cool waterfall on the way (-37.56195, -71.27035) with a place to swim just below (we unfortunately didn’t). Also the area around the trail especially higher up in the valley seemed to have had quite a few bush/forest fires.
Our goal for today was to get to the waypoint “Camp ? {09} [41.8/1705” Just before we got there it started to rain and when we did get there, there was no campsite just bushes and spiky tufed grass. It was a shame because we had earlier passed a nice sheltered looking place in trees just before around this area (-37.56669, -71.27521)
However we didn’t want to return so we walked onwards a bit and found somewhat sheltered spot among the bushes on a slightly sloping ground and it had a small side stream right by it. I wouldn’t recommend the spot as there were better places further up the valley as we learned the next day.
Lightning thunder and heavy rain kept things exciting for quite a few hours until it died down before midnight, the night was somewhat peaceful.

Day 6 - Our morning alarm was the thunder that started rumbling before 7am, it was back! By the time we were done with breakfast and packing it started to rain. We considered heading back to the road Q45 and hitching to Antuco but the thought of being all wet and miserable potentially for hours didn’t appeal much so we opted to wait it out in the tent.
Garmin forecast showed there should be a few hour weather window around midday. It stopped raining around 11:30 and the sky got a bit brighter. We decided to stick with our original plan and gun for the ridge route which is now the RR to Trapa Trapa.

We started walking around 13:00 and the good trail continued, when we got to around “Camp ? {09} [43.3/1890]” we could see the ridge where we had to go and a way to get there but the RR suggested we continue up the valley for a few km and then ridge walk back to get to that point. We wanted to get to Trapa Trapa by daylight so we opted for a direct attack (slow crawl) towards the ridge. From around the marked camp - and there were definitely some camp spots in the area with a small stream in the meadow, we aimed for the burned bushes on the hillside across. Through a slightly wet meadow and then we opted for a 30 m Bush Bash to get to a clearer area behind it. From my satellite images I couldn’t see it then but I can see it now that there probably is a trail going through the bushes further on if we would have kept skirting along to somewhere around here (-37.56999, -71.29519). Once we did our BB we picked up the trail which took us in the direction where we had initially planned to go.
From a bot higher up we could see a puesto here (-37.56909, -71.30161) and on Google Maps it is marked as “Cajon gutarda” - “summer camp organizer”
We continued on the newly found trail until we were just below the ridge with the less steep ground and less bushes above us and then went straight for the ridge which we reached and rejoined the RR around here (-37.57952, -71.29323). In total I believe this “variant” saved us about 2.5km and some valuable time.

Once on the ridge it was straightforward CC to the “Summit {09} [49.1/2381]” from which the panorama was incredible, we could see from Volcá Chillán to Volcán Callaqui and all the high snowy summits in between.
From the summit we continued down to a pass (-37.61173, -71.26537). However already on the way down we could see from above that there were some trails passing on the side of the mountain towards the pass. We could also see a small lake/pond (-37.60329, -71.26681) with a large flat area around it, definitely a camp spot with water if you want to break up the ridge walk and the weather permits it.
Following with our eyes to where approximately the trail leads from the little lake, in the distance we could see some structure here (-37.58957, -71.25816) possibly a puesto? And on the satellite image now I can see that there is a trail from there connecting to the road of Option 4 below. That would definitely be an easier and a quicker way to gain the ridge. An option worth investigating?
Because we initially were considering variant D but since we got there late in the afternoon it would have meant we would have had to camp somewhere around “Ford {09-D} [0.9/1512]” to then go for the ridge the next day. And from the distance Variant D looked very steep and not very inviting to be honest.

Continuing along the ridge we picked up the trail going towards the pass that I mentioned before and though it was very faint at times it was possible to follow it, sometimes it was the scratches on the rocks from the horse shoes that showed the way. This faint trail pretty much continued across two more passes along the ridge. First to this pass/saddle (-37.62817, -71.25821) and from here instead of going up an over the steep and unnecessary climb like the RR suggests an actual trail skirted nicely around it on the west side you can see it clearly on the sattelite image. On the way it passed a spring somwhere around here (-37.63423, -71.25954). At least judging by the wet green swampy area around it I believe it was a spring and not a result of the heavy rains earlier in the day, there was a small stream with flowing water. Right after that it connects to what almost seems to be a road going over the pass that then connects the Variant E to the RR. On the pass there was also a spring (3rd and last water along the ridge) and a really good campsite with flat soft short grass and dry ground below it. This is where I would have loved to camp if I knew before and of course if the weather permited.

From this pass the trail sort of fizzled out and it was more or less CC once again. We didn’t exactly follow the gpx of the RR but mostly what seemed to be some animal tracks. And we skirted between the two knolls over a mini saddle and skirted along to the next mini saddle without loosing elevation like the RR suggests but it was on a steep muddy slope at times, perhaps actually going a little uphill and staying on the ridge would have been better. The ridge here actually splits into two separate, we of course followed the one that RR suggested and it also got a bit more interesting, it got a lot narrower and more rocky. Though it looked very exciting from the distance it was still pretty easy, and you could go around the rocks on the east side where necessary.

Around here we heard our friend Thunder was back, right behind us brewing up another nasty. Though this time we were even more determined to win this race. We pushed onwards to the next saddle along the ridge where Variant F joins the RR where we picked up a nice and easy trail that pretty much carried us all the way to Trapa Trapa. On the way we saw the Variant H trail coming up to join the RR and a puesto right besides it (-37.66803, -71.24238)

Since we were racing to outrun the thunderstorm and get to Trapa Trapa we didn’t really look for or investigate the Variant I trail, the RR was super good enough.
To mention a few extra waypoints along the RR: A possible Camp without water around this area (-37.69263, -71.24922) and a small ford here (-37.69691, -71.25383) it was possible to cross it with dry feet but the water was murky probably due to heavy rains earlier in the day.
Also, there is now a fence here (-37.70568, -71.26387) but the path is redirected nicely in between two property fences and channels you onto the same road that the RR comes to just a slightly different way.

We got to Trapa Trapa around 19:30 it looked very quiet there. The Posta de Salud Rural Trapa Trapa wifi now had a password and since it was closed we couldn’t use the wifi. We had no interest in staying in the accommodation there or visiting the shop, we wanted to get to Los Angeles for some proper resupply and rest. So we started walking down the road hoping to at least get to the Termas Nitrao hot springs (-37.69241, -71.29524) for the night. But after less than a km of walking a pickup truck picked us up and brought us to Cauñicu which is where the Chilean road maintenance crew that picked us up was heading for their night. They told us Termas Nitrao cost about 4k CLP pp and that you can camp there but we can’t confirm that.
In Cauñicu we stayed in a very basic campsite here (-37.71099, -71.48273) called Camping y Cabañas Margarita - 6k CLP pp. There was also a roadside “cafe” called Kawello Ko (-37.71329, -71.48313) where we got some large “sopapillas con palta” for dinner. They also sold some completos, soft drinks and some home made nut mixes.

From what we could gather from the locals there are usually 2 buses one at around 6:40 and another one just before 7:00. We got on the bus around 6:40 and the bus was already full and we were standing all the way to Ralco (Alto BioBio) and more people kept packing on the bus. So it’s probably better to get on the bus somewhere earlier.
Bus to Los Angeles costs 3.5k CLP pp and takes about 3h from Cauñicu, it stops for a 10 min coffee break in Santa Barbara.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 19th 2025 – Dec 23th 2025 / 4.5 days (including 1 rest day) / NOBO / Option 4, Variant D, RR, Variant B, RR / Matt&Linda '''

Day 1: With a late start in Trapa Trapa and bad weather coming in the following day we decided to take Option 4. The ascent along the river in the cool of the afternoon was quite nice, easy path. We met a lot of Pehuenche and arrieros coming down from the pass. We said our hellos but no one stopped long enough to talk. The pass and the high, open valley that followed was so beautiful. I was sad we had to rush through it a little. We camped at a closed puesto (Camp 09-04 [9.5/1709]).

Day 2: we started early to beat the rain. Stopped for breakfast at a nice site that isn’t in the GPS files with wooden benches and tables a couple of meters off the trail (S 37°34.568, W71° 14.489), could be a nice campsite?! The path was very comfortable to hike and we enjoyed the valley. The fords were no problem for us, could do most of them with dry feet. There is a little metal bridge right by a puesto to cross the Rio de los Pinos here: S 37° 31.047, W 71° 15.071. Closer to Laguna de la Laja we finally got our feet wet but the water only went up to our knees. We set up our camp on the riverbank, trying to find a sheltered spot for 1.5 days of rain. Found a good spot and build a little fire pit here: S37° 29.090, W71° 16.148

Day 3: rainy rest day

Day 4: incredible day! We abandoned the straight line of the CC Section between Laguna Laja and Ruta Q45 and headed more towards the police building (Police 09-C [1.1/1475]). We ended up standing in front of the old bus-turned-diner that has been mentioned in the logs before (S37° 27.996, W71° 19.154). When we arrived, a young man called Jurgen greeted us, opened the doors to the bus and got a whiteboard with the menu written on it. They serve churrasco, barros luco, empanadas, sopaipilla, spring rolls, pizzas and drinks. You can get wifi for 5000cp. The sandwiches were good, empanadas and sopaipillas store bought, didn’t try the rest. I’ll add a picture of menu/prices. We talked to Jurgen a bit and heard that they are about to open a restaurant in the container house they built right next to the bus. They also want to develop more (campsites, rooms, bike rental, quad drives, something similar to paintball). We went on our way on Variant B to reconnect with the RR. Note: on Variant B you have to ford the river whereas you wouldn’t have to following the RR, crossing the bridge on Q45! We didn’t mind, though. It was a windy day but the pass was no problem, the trail is relatively good to follow on the southern side. I had a small hope to summit Volcán Antuco but with fresh snow and those winds I quickly discarded it. The views of Antuco and Velluda were incredible nonetheless! We enjoyed our time exploring the lava field on the northern side and eventually set up camp at the “amphitheatre” but not at the campsite marked in OSM. We just pitched our tent close to the river here: S37° 25.427, W71° 24.952. Beautiful views, highly recommend!!! We arrived there on Dec 22nd and we were expecting to meet some people but we got to spend yet another night in solitude.

Day 5: we hiked the last couple of km down to the park ranger on good and well marked trails in the morning. The trail ends before the office, as far as we could tell. There was no one around who asked us for a permit or a fee. We hitchhiked into Antuco without a problem. Due to tendon issues we had to make the call to end our adventures on the GPT for now. A big thanks to Jan Dudeck, David Brophy and all the others who contributed to making the GPT happen for so many people!

Final note: We hadn’t planned to be in town for Christmas and found last minute accommodations with an unbelievably open and welcoming family in Huépil. It took us about 2 hours to reach it by bus (Antuco – Canteras – Huépil, 4000cp total). It is probably too far from the trailhead if you only want to stay the night but we can highly recommend “El mercadito de Pamela” if you want to be pampered with good and abundant local food by a lovely family. We couldn’t believe our luck to be asked to join the Christmas feast and be part of preparing “Chivo al Palo” with Pamela and her family.

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-15 to 2025-04-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Peggy

After staying 2 nights at Mireya and her family’s place in Trapa Trapa (lodging point km0.3) due to the rain, I left re-stocked with food bought from the family (noodles, jam, boiled eggs, bread, and sopapillas).
Note: in Trapa Trapa, mobile network only with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, Wi-Fi at the health center (posta de salud, in the center – no password needed, connection accessible from outside).

The day I left, Belissario, the man of the family and an arriero, was also heading back up to his puesto to fetch his cows. He invited me to his puesto by the estero for the evening. I ended up staying until the day after that, letting a day of light rain and wind pass. Quiet moments of sharing and mutual respect. Chaltumay 🙏

As with the other sections (12, 11, and 10) done in April, all the puestos I passed were closed.

Once past the ruta Q-45, it’s easier to cross the river (first ford not marked as such on the map in April 2025, with a puesto on the other side – 37.516956, 071.250529) by following vehicle tracks and thus going through the “bao” (river crossing for vehicles and animals); rather than following the GPS track.

It’s really worth taking the RR and not variant C unless you’re in a hurry and want to hitchhike...

I slept not far from the araucaria solitaria, a bit set back from the river to avoid the humidity on top of the cold. My tent and sleeping bag were still frozen in the morning, but I felt less humidity than I would have if I had camped closer to the water.

The next day, descent to Antuco via the pass, between Volcán Velluda and Volcán Antuco. Beautiful area (cold and windy at this time of year), then an impressive lava field. Upon reaching the amphitheater, I met a few people who had come as far as the waterfall at its end.
I hesitated to stay the night there but it was still early, and although I’m happy that people come to see one of the beauties of their country, I tend to enjoy solitude and avoid crowded places.

So I descended to Antuco that evening and spent the night for 15k at Hostal Puelche in Antuco (there are also cabañas, but I don’t know the price – 985776984).

For me, that marked the end of 3.5 months on the GPT for this season…
Thank you to Jan and everyone, present and past, who have walked this path and shared their experiences, those I met – especially Dorota for her friendship and shared journey – and Tomáš and Natalie for the few options I followed (and for those I didn’t get to follow but that still remain in my mind).

''' 2025-FEB- 13 to FEB 17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Emilie and Henry'''

Day 1: I slept close to the park ranger station the day prior, camping on the side of the road, a little bit hidden close to a stream to be able to get an early start. I disclosed my plans to go to trapa trapa to conaf and after filling out a paper and showing my day pass bought online I started on the road. A few kms in a car stopped next to me with someone asking me if I was the Canadian that registered to go to trapa trapa, I said yes; a fellow Canadian GPT hiker! I hopped in the Uber he took to the trail head with him and we decided to hike together. Henry (that’s his name) and I decided to start the hike together, and see if our rhythm matched and asses if we would continue. We hiked all day and camped at (S 37.458403° O 71.346766°).

Day 2: Henry wanted to hike to volcan antuco summit, which I had considered but discarded because I didn’t want to do it alone, but I was keen on doing it together. It took us 12 hours total, with 2x 20 mins break uphill and a 30 min break on the summit. We got back at camp around 8:30pm as the sun was setting. We took the track / footway that starts at (S 37.460320° O 71.313438° ) The hike up is long, especially after the first plateau, a lot of scrambling and a few 100ms on snowy ice which we did without ice gear but should not be attempted alone as it is relatively steep and dangerous. We went very slowly and we made it to the top. We admitted to each other that this was not the safest way we could’ve done this and went equally as slow to go down. Crampons would’ve helped A LOT. We came down via Oh-cc-a 09-01 (0.0+4.3) and camped at the same spot as the night before, where we had left our tents.

Day 3 : we continued passed the Refugio/military base and stayed on Ruta Q-45 hoping to get picked up (Which eventually happened) and driven until (S 37.526480° O 71.244377°) where we went back on the RR. We slept at (S 37.599160° O 71.243858°) near a puesto. We asked permission to the family on site to sleep next to the rio near them and they accepted. They were so so kind and we chatted and asked if we could buy some eggs and flour from them, and they proceeded to give us a bag with 8 eggs, flour, a tuna can and cookies. We paid them but they refused, shoving the money back into our bags. The next morning we wrote them a note with a drawing, heart-fully thanking them again . In retrospect we wish we had put money in the letter because they didn’t open it until we walked away, and next time that’s what we’ll do.

Day 4: after leaving the puesto we finished walking to trapa trapa, where we went to the store (S 37.712410° O 71.256369° ) to buy a few snacks and a ramen and hiked back a km or two to camp at (S 37.710964° O 71.249438°). We ended up being on private property (our mistake) and were confronted by the owner but he didn’t mind at all. We had a small fire going and he said something along the lines of “it’s to cold for such a small fire” and proceeded to throw a huge bundle of wood on. So all in all a good hearted exchange.

The next day we continued on gpt 10, together!

* ''' 2025-FEB-19 > 21 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Arno'''

| Weather : sunny and hot
| water : no issues
| snow : no
| Interest : 5/5
| Difficulty : 3/5
| Danger : none

Day 1
Started the hike from Antuco then the bus took me after 8km to the starting point of the section.

The first kilometers on the road are not interesting so I hitched. A super friendly arrieros family took me all the way in the park. It’s too bad my Spanish was not better so I could joke with them. The man is called Marco and knows everyone around.

They drove me past the park entrance which was useful as there was a guard probably checking for entry tickets. He let us through.

I took the option variant around the volcan following the road.

There are insane camp spots all around the laguna.

Day 2
Followed the path on the dirt road. Rather nice and easy walk. Camped along the road not far from puestos.

Day 3
The descent in the forest is very much enjoyable.
From Trapatrapa I hitched to Alto bobio.

* '''2024-02-03 - 2024-02-04/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and option 1 / Elijah and Michael '''

Option 1 Volcan Antuco entails relatively moderate angle perennial snowfield. Option 1A has no snow, ascent is direct and on lava rock.

Red shop in Trapa Trapa currently has biscuits, snacks and drinks, no pasta, ramen, etc.

Accomodation in Trapa Trapa at waypointed lodging was 65000 CLP for two persons including dinner, breakfast and 500g of harina tostada. Highly recommended.

*2025-02-12 to 2025-02-15 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Laguna Laja National Park - Sendero Sierra Velluda - ruta Q45 - Trapa Trapa / Paula & Ramon 🇧🇷
Day 1 (7 km): Entrance of Laguna Laja National Park - Amphitheatre Campsite (1540 msnm) 
As we passed through the national park control, we bought the entrance to the Park online at www.pasesparques.cl/ (it is not possible to buy on the spot). Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.426734, -71.414157): the water point is a little far from the camping area.
Day 2 (16 km): Amphitheatre (1540 msnm) - ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) 
Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.491905, -71.292664)
Day 3 (23 km): ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) - Paso near Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) 
Nice and easy path. We hitchhiked for about 7 km. Camping at (-37.652843, -71.233232) on a beautiful lawn with some water flowing in a streams. 
Day 4 (12 km): Paso Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) - Trapa Trapa (950 msnm). 
Easy path. At the health center in Trapa Trapa there was open Wi-Fi and a bathroom. We hitchhiked to the Nitrao Hot Springs (-37.692406, -71.295236), and the next day we took a bus from Malla Malla (-37.697741, -71.317649) to Los Angeles.

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky. No snow, no fords worth mentioning.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked minimarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-12-31T10:38:06Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-12-09: Track file update 2025 Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT09 Regular Route: Based on route verifications and recommendations from the previous season I rerouted the Regular Route onto the ridge (previously Option 3). This reduces road walking and the ridge route is without doubt more scenic. In instable or poor weather best stay in the valley (now Option 4, was regular route till season 2024/25).

==Season 2025/26==

'''2025-12-26 to 2025-12-27 / 2x 0.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Connected to GPT 09 from GPT 08 option 04 in the afternoon. Being sick as a dog I choose the slightly less demanding Option 04. Option 04 is still very nice.

Found a nice campsite at [37.625119, 71.246509]

New puesto? at [ 37.516549, 71.251260]

Day 02

Awoke feeling slightly better, continued on my way to Trappa Trappa, during the decent I met fellow GPT hiker (or cyclist) Sebastian pushing his bicycle up the path. We chatted for a while before I went onto Trappa Trappa.

Entered the town at noon to find everything crossed due to a indigenous religious ritual called Ngillatung (spelling uncertain), a Mapuche ceremony where they stay in their huts for three days, eat and smoke some “weed” as I understood it.

The hospital offers accommodation (tent site, water and wifi) for anyone. I, however, was lucky however and met the scouts currently in the area doing volunteer work — bringing Christmas presents to the children of the local community. They invited me for lunch, the Christmas party and dinner. Very friendly group of people.

I pitched my tent in the schoolyard, made a contribution to their cause and fell asleep at midnight after a long day of partying. Not the best cure against sickness but opportunities like these do not come around often. Anyways, continued on GPT 10 in the morning and probably more, that is yet to be seen.

''' GPT09/2025-12-17 to 2025-12-19/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/option 1/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
Before leaving Abanico we stoped in Roca Cafe. The owner was really nice he is outdoor lover. Besides cafe he offers Refugios for 27 000 pesos with hot tub. Dinner or lunch possible for 6 000 pesos.
We didn’t pay anything, at the gate to National Park young guy asked for a plan we told him that we want to sleep in pas between Antuco and Sierra Velluda, and possibly climb Antico next morning. On google translator he wrote us that we don’t need to pay because we are just going through and not spending night in NP area.
It took us 4 hours from the pass up and down with 50 minutes break on top. Early in the morning the snow was hard so with microspikes to went pretty nice, but the slide lines were sketchy. Way down was even harder because the snow was softer. It wasn’t that difficult but we were happy for microspikes.
Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.

Difficulty 3,5/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.08.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (New Re-route) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

(Continued from Section GPT08 log - middle of Day 5)

We joined the GPT09 RR ca. 28.2km - A decent trail continued all the way to Rio de los Pinos which we forded at this point (-37.51706, -71.24997) it’s a long but shallow ford and the water temperature was actually very pleasant. After the ford there is a minor road for a short bit and then some CC/cow trails to get to X {09} [34.9/1495].

Big dark clouds were gathering on the Argentinian side, we hoped that we will escape them by going up the valley following the now new RR. At the Puesto {09} [37.6/1543] there was a friendly family and the man let us through the 3 gates to get to the ford just below (-37.54347, -71.25271). The RR passes right through his property. He explained to us that the better trail goes on the other side of the valley, which matched with the RR. Since we felt a bit rushed by the brewing storm behind us we didn’t really chat to the man and didn’t even find out his name unfortunately.
The trail was really good for a GPT standard and there was a cool waterfall on the way (-37.56195, -71.27035) with a place to swim just below (we unfortunately didn’t). Also the area around the trail especially higher up in the valley seemed to have had quite a few bush/forest fires.
Our goal for today was to get to the waypoint “Camp ? {09} [41.8/1705” Just before we got there it started to rain and when we did get there, there was no campsite just bushes and spiky tufed grass. It was a shame because we had earlier passed a nice sheltered looking place in trees just before around this area (-37.56669, -71.27521)
However we didn’t want to return so we walked onwards a bit and found somewhat sheltered spot among the bushes on a slightly sloping ground and it had a small side stream right by it. I wouldn’t recommend the spot as there were better places further up the valley as we learned the next day.
Lightning thunder and heavy rain kept things exciting for quite a few hours until it died down before midnight, the night was somewhat peaceful.

Day 6 - Our morning alarm was the thunder that started rumbling before 7am, it was back! By the time we were done with breakfast and packing it started to rain. We considered heading back to the road Q45 and hitching to Antuco but the thought of being all wet and miserable potentially for hours didn’t appeal much so we opted to wait it out in the tent.
Garmin forecast showed there should be a few hour weather window around midday. It stopped raining around 11:30 and the sky got a bit brighter. We decided to stick with our original plan and gun for the ridge route which is now the RR to Trapa Trapa.

We started walking around 13:00 and the good trail continued, when we got to around “Camp ? {09} [43.3/1890]” we could see the ridge where we had to go and a way to get there but the RR suggested we continue up the valley for a few km and then ridge walk back to get to that point. We wanted to get to Trapa Trapa by daylight so we opted for a direct attack (slow crawl) towards the ridge. From around the marked camp - and there were definitely some camp spots in the area with a small stream in the meadow, we aimed for the burned bushes on the hillside across. Through a slightly wet meadow and then we opted for a 30 m Bush Bash to get to a clearer area behind it. From my satellite images I couldn’t see it then but I can see it now that there probably is a trail going through the bushes further on if we would have kept skirting along to somewhere around here (-37.56999, -71.29519). Once we did our BB we picked up the trail which took us in the direction where we had initially planned to go.
From a bot higher up we could see a puesto here (-37.56909, -71.30161) and on Google Maps it is marked as “Cajon gutarda” - “summer camp organizer”
We continued on the newly found trail until we were just below the ridge with the less steep ground and less bushes above us and then went straight for the ridge which we reached and rejoined the RR around here (-37.57952, -71.29323). In total I believe this “variant” saved us about 2.5km and some valuable time.

Once on the ridge it was straightforward CC to the “Summit {09} [49.1/2381]” from which the panorama was incredible, we could see from Volcá Chillán to Volcán Callaqui and all the high snowy summits in between.
From the summit we continued down to a pass (-37.61173, -71.26537). However already on the way down we could see from above that there were some trails passing on the side of the mountain towards the pass. We could also see a small lake/pond (-37.60329, -71.26681) with a large flat area around it, definitely a camp spot with water if you want to break up the ridge walk and the weather permits it.
Following with our eyes to where approximately the trail leads from the little lake, in the distance we could see some structure here (-37.58957, -71.25816) possibly a puesto? And on the satellite image now I can see that there is a trail from there connecting to the road of Option 4 below. That would definitely be an easier and a quicker way to gain the ridge. An option worth investigating?
Because we initially were considering variant D but since we got there late in the afternoon it would have meant we would have had to camp somewhere around “Ford {09-D} [0.9/1512]” to then go for the ridge the next day. And from the distance Variant D looked very steep and not very inviting to be honest.

Continuing along the ridge we picked up the trail going towards the pass that I mentioned before and though it was very faint at times it was possible to follow it, sometimes it was the scratches on the rocks from the horse shoes that showed the way. This faint trail pretty much continued across two more passes along the ridge. First to this pass/saddle (-37.62817, -71.25821) and from here instead of going up an over the steep and unnecessary climb like the RR suggests an actual trail skirted nicely around it on the west side you can see it clearly on the sattelite image. On the way it passed a spring somwhere around here (-37.63423, -71.25954). At least judging by the wet green swampy area around it I believe it was a spring and not a result of the heavy rains earlier in the day, there was a small stream with flowing water. Right after that it connects to what almost seems to be a road going over the pass that then connects the Variant E to the RR. On the pass there was also a spring (3rd and last water along the ridge) and a really good campsite with flat soft short grass and dry ground below it. This is where I would have loved to camp if I knew before and of course if the weather permited.

From this pass the trail sort of fizzled out and it was more or less CC once again. We didn’t exactly follow the gpx of the RR but mostly what seemed to be some animal tracks. And we skirted between the two knolls over a mini saddle and skirted along to the next mini saddle without loosing elevation like the RR suggests but it was on a steep muddy slope at times, perhaps actually going a little uphill and staying on the ridge would have been better. The ridge here actually splits into two separate, we of course followed the one that RR suggested and it also got a bit more interesting, it got a lot narrower and more rocky. Though it looked very exciting from the distance it was still pretty easy, and you could go around the rocks on the east side where necessary.

Around here we heard our friend Thunder was back, right behind us brewing up another nasty. Though this time we were even more determined to win this race. We pushed onwards to the next saddle along the ridge where Variant F joins the RR where we picked up a nice and easy trail that pretty much carried us all the way to Trapa Trapa. On the way we saw the Variant H trail coming up to join the RR and a puesto right besides it (-37.66803, -71.24238)

Since we were racing to outrun the thunderstorm and get to Trapa Trapa we didn’t really look for or investigate the Variant I trail, the RR was super good enough.
To mention a few extra waypoints along the RR: A possible Camp without water around this area (-37.69263, -71.24922) and a small ford here (-37.69691, -71.25383) it was possible to cross it with dry feet but the water was murky probably due to heavy rains earlier in the day.
Also, there is now a fence here (-37.70568, -71.26387) but the path is redirected nicely in between two property fences and channels you onto the same road that the RR comes to just a slightly different way.

We got to Trapa Trapa around 19:30 it looked very quiet there. The Posta de Salud Rural Trapa Trapa wifi now had a password and since it was closed we couldn’t use the wifi. We had no interest in staying in the accommodation there or visiting the shop, we wanted to get to Los Angeles for some proper resupply and rest. So we started walking down the road hoping to at least get to the Termas Nitrao hot springs (-37.69241, -71.29524) for the night. But after less than a km of walking a pickup truck picked us up and brought us to Cauñicu which is where the Chilean road maintenance crew that picked us up was heading for their night. They told us Termas Nitrao cost about 4k CLP pp and that you can camp there but we can’t confirm that.
In Cauñicu we stayed in a very basic campsite here (-37.71099, -71.48273) called Camping y Cabañas Margarita - 6k CLP pp. There was also a roadside “cafe” called Kawello Ko (-37.71329, -71.48313) where we got some large “sopapillas con palta” for dinner. They also sold some completos, soft drinks and some home made nut mixes.

From what we could gather from the locals there are usually 2 buses one at around 6:40 and another one just before 7:00. We got on the bus around 6:40 and the bus was already full and we were standing all the way to Ralco (Alto BioBio) and more people kept packing on the bus. So it’s probably better to get on the bus somewhere earlier.
Bus to Los Angeles costs 3.5k CLP pp and takes about 3h from Cauñicu, it stops for a 10 min coffee break in Santa Barbara.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 19th 2025 – Dec 23th 2025 / 4.5 days (including 1 rest day) / NOBO / Option 4, Variant D, RR, Variant B, RR / Matt&Linda '''

Day 1: from what I read in the logs it seems like Option 4 used to be the RR, the new RR has a longer and steeper climb starting from Trapa Trapa and there weren’t any campsites marked for the first 25km. With a late start in Trapa Trapa and bad weather coming in the following day we decided to take Option 4. The ascent along the river in the cool of the afternoon was quite nice, easy path. We met a lot of Pehuenche and arrieros coming down from the pass. We said our hellos but no one stopped long enough to talk. The pass and the high, open valley that followed was so beautiful. I was sad we had to rush through it a little. We camped at a closed puesto (Camp 09-04 [9.5/1709].

Day 2: we started early to beat the rain. Stopped for breakfast at a nice site that isn’t in the GPS files with wooden benches and tables a couple of meters off the trail (S 37°34.568, W71° 14.489), could be a nice campsite?! The path was very comfortable to hike and we enjoyed the valley. The fords were no problem for us, could do most of them with dry feet. There is a little metal bridge right by a puesto to cross the Rio de los Pinos here: S 37° 31.047, W 71° 15.071. Closer to Laguna de la Laja we finally got our feet wet but the water only went up to our knees. We set up our camp on the riverbank, trying to find a sheltered spot for 1.5 days of rain. Found a good spot and build a little fire pit here: S37° 29.090, W71° 16.148

Day 3: rainy rest day

Day 4: incredible day! We abandoned the straight line of the CC Section between Laguna Laja and Ruta Q45 and headed more towards the police building (Police 09-C [1.1/1475]). We ended up standing in front of the old bus-turned-diner that has been mentioned in the logs before (S37° 27.996, W71° 19.154). When we arrived, a young man called Jurgen greeted us, opened the doors to the bus and got a whiteboard with the menu written on it. They serve churrasco, barros luco, empanadas, sopaipilla, spring rolls, pizzas and drinks. You can get wifi for 5000cp. The sandwiches were good, empanadas and sopaipillas store bought, didn’t try the rest. I’ll add a picture of menu/prices. We talked to Jurgen a bit and heard that they are about to open a restaurant in the container house they built right next to the bus. They also want to develop more (campsites, rooms, bike rental, quad drives, something similar to paintball). We went on our way on Variant B to reconnect with the RR. Note: on Variant B you have to ford the river whereas you wouldn’t have to following the RR, crossing the bridge on Q45! We didn’t mind, though. It was a windy day but the pass was no problem, the trail is relatively good to follow on the southern side. I had a small hope to summit Volcán Antuco but with fresh snow and those winds I quickly discarded it. The views of Antuco and Velluda were incredible nonetheless! We enjoyed our time exploring the lava field on the northern side and eventually set up camp at the “amphitheatre” but not at the campsite marked in OSM. We just pitched our tent close to the river here: S37° 25.427, W71° 24.952. Beautiful views, highly recommend!!! We arrived there on Dec 22nd and we were expecting to meet some people but we got to spend yet another night in solitude.

Day 5: we hiked the last couple of km down to the park ranger on good and well marked trails in the morning. The trail ends before the office, as far as we could tell. There was no one around who asked us for a permit or a fee. We hitchhiked into Antuco without a problem. Due to tendon issues we had to make the call to end our adventures on the GPT for now. A big thanks to Jan Dudeck, David Brophy and all the others who contributed to making the GPT happen for so many people!

Final note: We hadn’t planned to be in town for Christmas and found last minute accommodations with an unbelievably open and welcoming family in Huépil. It took us about 2 hours to reach it by bus (Antuco – Canteras – Huépil, 4000cp total). It is probably too far from the trailhead if you only want to stay the night but we can highly recommend “El mercadito de Pamela” if you want to be pampered with good and abundant local food by a lovely family. We couldn’t believe our luck to be asked to join the Christmas feast and be part of preparing “Chivo al Palo” with Pamela and her family.

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-15 to 2025-04-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Peggy

After staying 2 nights at Mireya and her family’s place in Trapa Trapa (lodging point km0.3) due to the rain, I left re-stocked with food bought from the family (noodles, jam, boiled eggs, bread, and sopapillas).
Note: in Trapa Trapa, mobile network only with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, Wi-Fi at the health center (posta de salud, in the center – no password needed, connection accessible from outside).

The day I left, Belissario, the man of the family and an arriero, was also heading back up to his puesto to fetch his cows. He invited me to his puesto by the estero for the evening. I ended up staying until the day after that, letting a day of light rain and wind pass. Quiet moments of sharing and mutual respect. Chaltumay 🙏

As with the other sections (12, 11, and 10) done in April, all the puestos I passed were closed.

Once past the ruta Q-45, it’s easier to cross the river (first ford not marked as such on the map in April 2025, with a puesto on the other side – 37.516956, 071.250529) by following vehicle tracks and thus going through the “bao” (river crossing for vehicles and animals); rather than following the GPS track.

It’s really worth taking the RR and not variant C unless you’re in a hurry and want to hitchhike...

I slept not far from the araucaria solitaria, a bit set back from the river to avoid the humidity on top of the cold. My tent and sleeping bag were still frozen in the morning, but I felt less humidity than I would have if I had camped closer to the water.

The next day, descent to Antuco via the pass, between Volcán Velluda and Volcán Antuco. Beautiful area (cold and windy at this time of year), then an impressive lava field. Upon reaching the amphitheater, I met a few people who had come as far as the waterfall at its end.
I hesitated to stay the night there but it was still early, and although I’m happy that people come to see one of the beauties of their country, I tend to enjoy solitude and avoid crowded places.

So I descended to Antuco that evening and spent the night for 15k at Hostal Puelche in Antuco (there are also cabañas, but I don’t know the price – 985776984).

For me, that marked the end of 3.5 months on the GPT for this season…
Thank you to Jan and everyone, present and past, who have walked this path and shared their experiences, those I met – especially Dorota for her friendship and shared journey – and Tomáš and Natalie for the few options I followed (and for those I didn’t get to follow but that still remain in my mind).

''' 2025-FEB- 13 to FEB 17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Emilie and Henry'''

Day 1: I slept close to the park ranger station the day prior, camping on the side of the road, a little bit hidden close to a stream to be able to get an early start. I disclosed my plans to go to trapa trapa to conaf and after filling out a paper and showing my day pass bought online I started on the road. A few kms in a car stopped next to me with someone asking me if I was the Canadian that registered to go to trapa trapa, I said yes; a fellow Canadian GPT hiker! I hopped in the Uber he took to the trail head with him and we decided to hike together. Henry (that’s his name) and I decided to start the hike together, and see if our rhythm matched and asses if we would continue. We hiked all day and camped at (S 37.458403° O 71.346766°).

Day 2: Henry wanted to hike to volcan antuco summit, which I had considered but discarded because I didn’t want to do it alone, but I was keen on doing it together. It took us 12 hours total, with 2x 20 mins break uphill and a 30 min break on the summit. We got back at camp around 8:30pm as the sun was setting. We took the track / footway that starts at (S 37.460320° O 71.313438° ) The hike up is long, especially after the first plateau, a lot of scrambling and a few 100ms on snowy ice which we did without ice gear but should not be attempted alone as it is relatively steep and dangerous. We went very slowly and we made it to the top. We admitted to each other that this was not the safest way we could’ve done this and went equally as slow to go down. Crampons would’ve helped A LOT. We came down via Oh-cc-a 09-01 (0.0+4.3) and camped at the same spot as the night before, where we had left our tents.

Day 3 : we continued passed the Refugio/military base and stayed on Ruta Q-45 hoping to get picked up (Which eventually happened) and driven until (S 37.526480° O 71.244377°) where we went back on the RR. We slept at (S 37.599160° O 71.243858°) near a puesto. We asked permission to the family on site to sleep next to the rio near them and they accepted. They were so so kind and we chatted and asked if we could buy some eggs and flour from them, and they proceeded to give us a bag with 8 eggs, flour, a tuna can and cookies. We paid them but they refused, shoving the money back into our bags. The next morning we wrote them a note with a drawing, heart-fully thanking them again . In retrospect we wish we had put money in the letter because they didn’t open it until we walked away, and next time that’s what we’ll do.

Day 4: after leaving the puesto we finished walking to trapa trapa, where we went to the store (S 37.712410° O 71.256369° ) to buy a few snacks and a ramen and hiked back a km or two to camp at (S 37.710964° O 71.249438°). We ended up being on private property (our mistake) and were confronted by the owner but he didn’t mind at all. We had a small fire going and he said something along the lines of “it’s to cold for such a small fire” and proceeded to throw a huge bundle of wood on. So all in all a good hearted exchange.

The next day we continued on gpt 10, together!

* ''' 2025-FEB-19 > 21 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Arno'''

| Weather : sunny and hot
| water : no issues
| snow : no
| Interest : 5/5
| Difficulty : 3/5
| Danger : none

Day 1
Started the hike from Antuco then the bus took me after 8km to the starting point of the section.

The first kilometers on the road are not interesting so I hitched. A super friendly arrieros family took me all the way in the park. It’s too bad my Spanish was not better so I could joke with them. The man is called Marco and knows everyone around.

They drove me past the park entrance which was useful as there was a guard probably checking for entry tickets. He let us through.

I took the option variant around the volcan following the road.

There are insane camp spots all around the laguna.

Day 2
Followed the path on the dirt road. Rather nice and easy walk. Camped along the road not far from puestos.

Day 3
The descent in the forest is very much enjoyable.
From Trapatrapa I hitched to Alto bobio.

* '''2024-02-03 - 2024-02-04/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and option 1 / Elijah and Michael '''

Option 1 Volcan Antuco entails relatively moderate angle perennial snowfield. Option 1A has no snow, ascent is direct and on lava rock.

Red shop in Trapa Trapa currently has biscuits, snacks and drinks, no pasta, ramen, etc.

Accomodation in Trapa Trapa at waypointed lodging was 65000 CLP for two persons including dinner, breakfast and 500g of harina tostada. Highly recommended.

*2025-02-12 to 2025-02-15 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Laguna Laja National Park - Sendero Sierra Velluda - ruta Q45 - Trapa Trapa / Paula & Ramon 🇧🇷
Day 1 (7 km): Entrance of Laguna Laja National Park - Amphitheatre Campsite (1540 msnm) 
As we passed through the national park control, we bought the entrance to the Park online at www.pasesparques.cl/ (it is not possible to buy on the spot). Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.426734, -71.414157): the water point is a little far from the camping area.
Day 2 (16 km): Amphitheatre (1540 msnm) - ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) 
Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.491905, -71.292664)
Day 3 (23 km): ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) - Paso near Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) 
Nice and easy path. We hitchhiked for about 7 km. Camping at (-37.652843, -71.233232) on a beautiful lawn with some water flowing in a streams. 
Day 4 (12 km): Paso Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) - Trapa Trapa (950 msnm). 
Easy path. At the health center in Trapa Trapa there was open Wi-Fi and a bathroom. We hitchhiked to the Nitrao Hot Springs (-37.692406, -71.295236), and the next day we took a bus from Malla Malla (-37.697741, -71.317649) to Los Angeles.

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky. No snow, no fords worth mentioning.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked minimarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-12-31T10:31:42Z

Hoscheid-l: /* Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2025-12-26 to 2025-12-27 / 2x 0.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Connected to GPT 09 from GPT 08 option 04 in the afternoon. Being sick as a dog I choose the slightly less demanding Option 04. Option 04 is still very nice.

Found a nice campsite at [37.625119, 71.246509]

New puesto? at [ 37.516549, 71.251260]

Day 02

Awoke feeling slightly better, continued on my way to Trappa Trappa, during the decent I met fellow GPT hiker (or cyclist) Sebastian pushing his bicycle up the path. We chatted for a while before I went onto Trappa Trappa.

Entered the town at noon to find everything crossed due to a indigenous religious ritual called Ngillatung (spelling uncertain), a Mapuche ceremony where they stay in their huts for three days, eat and smoke some “weed” as I understood it.

The hospital offers accommodation (tent site, water and wifi) for anyone. I, however, was lucky however and met the scouts currently in the area doing volunteer work — bringing Christmas presents to the children of the local community. They invited me for lunch, the Christmas party and dinner. Very friendly group of people.

I pitched my tent in the schoolyard, made a contribution to their cause and fell asleep at midnight after a long day of partying. Not the best cure against sickness but opportunities like these do not come around often. Anyways, continued on GPT 10 in the morning and probably more, that is yet to be seen.

''' GPT09/2025-12-17 to 2025-12-19/ 2,5 days/ SOBO/RR/option 1/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
Before leaving Abanico we stoped in Roca Cafe. The owner was really nice he is outdoor lover. Besides cafe he offers Refugios for 27 000 pesos with hot tub. Dinner or lunch possible for 6 000 pesos.
We didn’t pay anything, at the gate to National Park young guy asked for a plan we told him that we want to sleep in pas between Antuco and Sierra Velluda, and possibly climb Antico next morning. On google translator he wrote us that we don’t need to pay because we are just going through and not spending night in NP area.
It took us 4 hours from the pass up and down with 50 minutes break on top. Early in the morning the snow was hard so with microspikes to went pretty nice, but the slide lines were sketchy. Way down was even harder because the snow was softer. It wasn’t that difficult but we were happy for microspikes.
Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.

Difficulty 3,5/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.08.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (New Re-route) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

(Continued from Section GPT08 log - middle of Day 5)

We joined the GPT09 RR ca. 28.2km - A decent trail continued all the way to Rio de los Pinos which we forded at this point (-37.51706, -71.24997) it’s a long but shallow ford and the water temperature was actually very pleasant. After the ford there is a minor road for a short bit and then some CC/cow trails to get to X {09} [34.9/1495].

Big dark clouds were gathering on the Argentinian side, we hoped that we will escape them by going up the valley following the now new RR. At the Puesto {09} [37.6/1543] there was a friendly family and the man let us through the 3 gates to get to the ford just below (-37.54347, -71.25271). The RR passes right through his property. He explained to us that the better trail goes on the other side of the valley, which matched with the RR. Since we felt a bit rushed by the brewing storm behind us we didn’t really chat to the man and didn’t even find out his name unfortunately.
The trail was really good for a GPT standard and there was a cool waterfall on the way (-37.56195, -71.27035) with a place to swim just below (we unfortunately didn’t). Also the area around the trail especially higher up in the valley seemed to have had quite a few bush/forest fires.
Our goal for today was to get to the waypoint “Camp ? {09} [41.8/1705” Just before we got there it started to rain and when we did get there, there was no campsite just bushes and spiky tufed grass. It was a shame because we had earlier passed a nice sheltered looking place in trees just before around this area (-37.56669, -71.27521)
However we didn’t want to return so we walked onwards a bit and found somewhat sheltered spot among the bushes on a slightly sloping ground and it had a small side stream right by it. I wouldn’t recommend the spot as there were better places further up the valley as we learned the next day.
Lightning thunder and heavy rain kept things exciting for quite a few hours until it died down before midnight, the night was somewhat peaceful.

Day 6 - Our morning alarm was the thunder that started rumbling before 7am, it was back! By the time we were done with breakfast and packing it started to rain. We considered heading back to the road Q45 and hitching to Antuco but the thought of being all wet and miserable potentially for hours didn’t appeal much so we opted to wait it out in the tent.
Garmin forecast showed there should be a few hour weather window around midday. It stopped raining around 11:30 and the sky got a bit brighter. We decided to stick with our original plan and gun for the ridge route which is now the RR to Trapa Trapa.

We started walking around 13:00 and the good trail continued, when we got to around “Camp ? {09} [43.3/1890]” we could see the ridge where we had to go and a way to get there but the RR suggested we continue up the valley for a few km and then ridge walk back to get to that point. We wanted to get to Trapa Trapa by daylight so we opted for a direct attack (slow crawl) towards the ridge. From around the marked camp - and there were definitely some camp spots in the area with a small stream in the meadow, we aimed for the burned bushes on the hillside across. Through a slightly wet meadow and then we opted for a 30 m Bush Bash to get to a clearer area behind it. From my satellite images I couldn’t see it then but I can see it now that there probably is a trail going through the bushes further on if we would have kept skirting along to somewhere around here (-37.56999, -71.29519). Once we did our BB we picked up the trail which took us in the direction where we had initially planned to go.
From a bot higher up we could see a puesto here (-37.56909, -71.30161) and on Google Maps it is marked as “Cajon gutarda” - “summer camp organizer”
We continued on the newly found trail until we were just below the ridge with the less steep ground and less bushes above us and then went straight for the ridge which we reached and rejoined the RR around here (-37.57952, -71.29323). In total I believe this “variant” saved us about 2.5km and some valuable time.

Once on the ridge it was straightforward CC to the “Summit {09} [49.1/2381]” from which the panorama was incredible, we could see from Volcá Chillán to Volcán Callaqui and all the high snowy summits in between.
From the summit we continued down to a pass (-37.61173, -71.26537). However already on the way down we could see from above that there were some trails passing on the side of the mountain towards the pass. We could also see a small lake/pond (-37.60329, -71.26681) with a large flat area around it, definitely a camp spot with water if you want to break up the ridge walk and the weather permits it.
Following with our eyes to where approximately the trail leads from the little lake, in the distance we could see some structure here (-37.58957, -71.25816) possibly a puesto? And on the satellite image now I can see that there is a trail from there connecting to the road of Option 4 below. That would definitely be an easier and a quicker way to gain the ridge. An option worth investigating?
Because we initially were considering variant D but since we got there late in the afternoon it would have meant we would have had to camp somewhere around “Ford {09-D} [0.9/1512]” to then go for the ridge the next day. And from the distance Variant D looked very steep and not very inviting to be honest.

Continuing along the ridge we picked up the trail going towards the pass that I mentioned before and though it was very faint at times it was possible to follow it, sometimes it was the scratches on the rocks from the horse shoes that showed the way. This faint trail pretty much continued across two more passes along the ridge. First to this pass/saddle (-37.62817, -71.25821) and from here instead of going up an over the steep and unnecessary climb like the RR suggests an actual trail skirted nicely around it on the west side you can see it clearly on the sattelite image. On the way it passed a spring somwhere around here (-37.63423, -71.25954). At least judging by the wet green swampy area around it I believe it was a spring and not a result of the heavy rains earlier in the day, there was a small stream with flowing water. Right after that it connects to what almost seems to be a road going over the pass that then connects the Variant E to the RR. On the pass there was also a spring (3rd and last water along the ridge) and a really good campsite with flat soft short grass and dry ground below it. This is where I would have loved to camp if I knew before and of course if the weather permited.

From this pass the trail sort of fizzled out and it was more or less CC once again. We didn’t exactly follow the gpx of the RR but mostly what seemed to be some animal tracks. And we skirted between the two knolls over a mini saddle and skirted along to the next mini saddle without loosing elevation like the RR suggests but it was on a steep muddy slope at times, perhaps actually going a little uphill and staying on the ridge would have been better. The ridge here actually splits into two separate, we of course followed the one that RR suggested and it also got a bit more interesting, it got a lot narrower and more rocky. Though it looked very exciting from the distance it was still pretty easy, and you could go around the rocks on the east side where necessary.

Around here we heard our friend Thunder was back, right behind us brewing up another nasty. Though this time we were even more determined to win this race. We pushed onwards to the next saddle along the ridge where Variant F joins the RR where we picked up a nice and easy trail that pretty much carried us all the way to Trapa Trapa. On the way we saw the Variant H trail coming up to join the RR and a puesto right besides it (-37.66803, -71.24238)

Since we were racing to outrun the thunderstorm and get to Trapa Trapa we didn’t really look for or investigate the Variant I trail, the RR was super good enough.
To mention a few extra waypoints along the RR: A possible Camp without water around this area (-37.69263, -71.24922) and a small ford here (-37.69691, -71.25383) it was possible to cross it with dry feet but the water was murky probably due to heavy rains earlier in the day.
Also, there is now a fence here (-37.70568, -71.26387) but the path is redirected nicely in between two property fences and channels you onto the same road that the RR comes to just a slightly different way.

We got to Trapa Trapa around 19:30 it looked very quiet there. The Posta de Salud Rural Trapa Trapa wifi now had a password and since it was closed we couldn’t use the wifi. We had no interest in staying in the accommodation there or visiting the shop, we wanted to get to Los Angeles for some proper resupply and rest. So we started walking down the road hoping to at least get to the Termas Nitrao hot springs (-37.69241, -71.29524) for the night. But after less than a km of walking a pickup truck picked us up and brought us to Cauñicu which is where the Chilean road maintenance crew that picked us up was heading for their night. They told us Termas Nitrao cost about 4k CLP pp and that you can camp there but we can’t confirm that.
In Cauñicu we stayed in a very basic campsite here (-37.71099, -71.48273) called Camping y Cabañas Margarita - 6k CLP pp. There was also a roadside “cafe” called Kawello Ko (-37.71329, -71.48313) where we got some large “sopapillas con palta” for dinner. They also sold some completos, soft drinks and some home made nut mixes.

From what we could gather from the locals there are usually 2 buses one at around 6:40 and another one just before 7:00. We got on the bus around 6:40 and the bus was already full and we were standing all the way to Ralco (Alto BioBio) and more people kept packing on the bus. So it’s probably better to get on the bus somewhere earlier.
Bus to Los Angeles costs 3.5k CLP pp and takes about 3h from Cauñicu, it stops for a 10 min coffee break in Santa Barbara.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''2025-12-09: Track file update 2025 Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT09 Regular Route: Based on route verifications and recommendations from the previous season I rerouted the Regular Route onto the ridge (previously Option 3). This reduces road walking and the ridge route is without doubt more scenic. In instable or poor weather best stay in the valley (now Option 4, was regular route till season 2024/25).

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-15 to 2025-04-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Peggy

After staying 2 nights at Mireya and her family’s place in Trapa Trapa (lodging point km0.3) due to the rain, I left re-stocked with food bought from the family (noodles, jam, boiled eggs, bread, and sopapillas).
Note: in Trapa Trapa, mobile network only with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, Wi-Fi at the health center (posta de salud, in the center – no password needed, connection accessible from outside).

The day I left, Belissario, the man of the family and an arriero, was also heading back up to his puesto to fetch his cows. He invited me to his puesto by the estero for the evening. I ended up staying until the day after that, letting a day of light rain and wind pass. Quiet moments of sharing and mutual respect. Chaltumay 🙏

As with the other sections (12, 11, and 10) done in April, all the puestos I passed were closed.

Once past the ruta Q-45, it’s easier to cross the river (first ford not marked as such on the map in April 2025, with a puesto on the other side – 37.516956, 071.250529) by following vehicle tracks and thus going through the “bao” (river crossing for vehicles and animals); rather than following the GPS track.

It’s really worth taking the RR and not variant C unless you’re in a hurry and want to hitchhike...

I slept not far from the araucaria solitaria, a bit set back from the river to avoid the humidity on top of the cold. My tent and sleeping bag were still frozen in the morning, but I felt less humidity than I would have if I had camped closer to the water.

The next day, descent to Antuco via the pass, between Volcán Velluda and Volcán Antuco. Beautiful area (cold and windy at this time of year), then an impressive lava field. Upon reaching the amphitheater, I met a few people who had come as far as the waterfall at its end.
I hesitated to stay the night there but it was still early, and although I’m happy that people come to see one of the beauties of their country, I tend to enjoy solitude and avoid crowded places.

So I descended to Antuco that evening and spent the night for 15k at Hostal Puelche in Antuco (there are also cabañas, but I don’t know the price – 985776984).

For me, that marked the end of 3.5 months on the GPT for this season…
Thank you to Jan and everyone, present and past, who have walked this path and shared their experiences, those I met – especially Dorota for her friendship and shared journey – and Tomáš and Natalie for the few options I followed (and for those I didn’t get to follow but that still remain in my mind).

''' 2025-FEB- 13 to FEB 17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Emilie and Henry'''

Day 1: I slept close to the park ranger station the day prior, camping on the side of the road, a little bit hidden close to a stream to be able to get an early start. I disclosed my plans to go to trapa trapa to conaf and after filling out a paper and showing my day pass bought online I started on the road. A few kms in a car stopped next to me with someone asking me if I was the Canadian that registered to go to trapa trapa, I said yes; a fellow Canadian GPT hiker! I hopped in the Uber he took to the trail head with him and we decided to hike together. Henry (that’s his name) and I decided to start the hike together, and see if our rhythm matched and asses if we would continue. We hiked all day and camped at (S 37.458403° O 71.346766°).

Day 2: Henry wanted to hike to volcan antuco summit, which I had considered but discarded because I didn’t want to do it alone, but I was keen on doing it together. It took us 12 hours total, with 2x 20 mins break uphill and a 30 min break on the summit. We got back at camp around 8:30pm as the sun was setting. We took the track / footway that starts at (S 37.460320° O 71.313438° ) The hike up is long, especially after the first plateau, a lot of scrambling and a few 100ms on snowy ice which we did without ice gear but should not be attempted alone as it is relatively steep and dangerous. We went very slowly and we made it to the top. We admitted to each other that this was not the safest way we could’ve done this and went equally as slow to go down. Crampons would’ve helped A LOT. We came down via Oh-cc-a 09-01 (0.0+4.3) and camped at the same spot as the night before, where we had left our tents.

Day 3 : we continued passed the Refugio/military base and stayed on Ruta Q-45 hoping to get picked up (Which eventually happened) and driven until (S 37.526480° O 71.244377°) where we went back on the RR. We slept at (S 37.599160° O 71.243858°) near a puesto. We asked permission to the family on site to sleep next to the rio near them and they accepted. They were so so kind and we chatted and asked if we could buy some eggs and flour from them, and they proceeded to give us a bag with 8 eggs, flour, a tuna can and cookies. We paid them but they refused, shoving the money back into our bags. The next morning we wrote them a note with a drawing, heart-fully thanking them again . In retrospect we wish we had put money in the letter because they didn’t open it until we walked away, and next time that’s what we’ll do.

Day 4: after leaving the puesto we finished walking to trapa trapa, where we went to the store (S 37.712410° O 71.256369° ) to buy a few snacks and a ramen and hiked back a km or two to camp at (S 37.710964° O 71.249438°). We ended up being on private property (our mistake) and were confronted by the owner but he didn’t mind at all. We had a small fire going and he said something along the lines of “it’s to cold for such a small fire” and proceeded to throw a huge bundle of wood on. So all in all a good hearted exchange.

The next day we continued on gpt 10, together!

* ''' 2025-FEB-19 > 21 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Optional / Arno'''

| Weather : sunny and hot
| water : no issues
| snow : no
| Interest : 5/5
| Difficulty : 3/5
| Danger : none

Day 1
Started the hike from Antuco then the bus took me after 8km to the starting point of the section.

The first kilometers on the road are not interesting so I hitched. A super friendly arrieros family took me all the way in the park. It’s too bad my Spanish was not better so I could joke with them. The man is called Marco and knows everyone around.

They drove me past the park entrance which was useful as there was a guard probably checking for entry tickets. He let us through.

I took the option variant around the volcan following the road.

There are insane camp spots all around the laguna.

Day 2
Followed the path on the dirt road. Rather nice and easy walk. Camped along the road not far from puestos.

Day 3
The descent in the forest is very much enjoyable.
From Trapatrapa I hitched to Alto bobio.

* '''2024-02-03 - 2024-02-04/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR and option 1 / Elijah and Michael '''

Option 1 Volcan Antuco entails relatively moderate angle perennial snowfield. Option 1A has no snow, ascent is direct and on lava rock.

Red shop in Trapa Trapa currently has biscuits, snacks and drinks, no pasta, ramen, etc.

Accomodation in Trapa Trapa at waypointed lodging was 65000 CLP for two persons including dinner, breakfast and 500g of harina tostada. Highly recommended.

*2025-02-12 to 2025-02-15 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Laguna Laja National Park - Sendero Sierra Velluda - ruta Q45 - Trapa Trapa / Paula & Ramon 🇧🇷
Day 1 (7 km): Entrance of Laguna Laja National Park - Amphitheatre Campsite (1540 msnm) 
As we passed through the national park control, we bought the entrance to the Park online at www.pasesparques.cl/ (it is not possible to buy on the spot). Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.426734, -71.414157): the water point is a little far from the camping area.
Day 2 (16 km): Amphitheatre (1540 msnm) - ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) 
Great views of Volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda. Camping at (-37.491905, -71.292664)
Day 3 (23 km): ruta Q45 (1460 msmm) - Paso near Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) 
Nice and easy path. We hitchhiked for about 7 km. Camping at (-37.652843, -71.233232) on a beautiful lawn with some water flowing in a streams. 
Day 4 (12 km): Paso Trapa Trapa (1880 msnm) - Trapa Trapa (950 msnm). 
Easy path. At the health center in Trapa Trapa there was open Wi-Fi and a bathroom. We hitchhiked to the Nitrao Hot Springs (-37.692406, -71.295236), and the next day we took a bus from Malla Malla (-37.697741, -71.317649) to Los Angeles.

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky. No snow, no fords worth mentioning.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked minimarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2025-12-31T10:29:17Z

Hoscheid-l: /* Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT10 Option 1 (Termas Pucon Mahuida) and Option 2 (Cumbre Copahue): I added in 2025 additional routes east of the regular route. In good weather and with the vulcano being calm, these more remote routes are more adventurous but might require some exploration.

- GPT10 Option 3 (Ruta Fronterra): This completely new route was suggested and investigated by Manon and Robin and connects GPT10 Option 1 with GPT11 on a more eastern route by traversing the mountain ridges along the border to Argentina. This route bypasses the more populated valleys along the regular route where in rare cases some tension with the local Pehuenche population was reported. This route also bypasses Guallali. Thererfore, more provisions are required.
==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT10/2025-12-19 to 2025-12-21/SOBO/RR/Denis and Robert '''

Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.
From 17 km there is no water until Camping El Barco.
Camping is open for 5000 pesos per person, but no food or snack, no WiFi. We used electricity to recharge and cold showers.
In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place.

Attractiveness 3/5
Difficulty 2/5

*''' 2025.13.12 to 2025.14.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 1A + Opt 1 + Opt 1C + / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an injury we had to change our plans.

TLDR: Decent resupply shop in Butalelbún up the valley from Trapa Trapa. Option 1A very good trail connecting to Option 1 with possible campsites not far from leaving the road. Copahue - snow from around 2300m depending on the slope aspect plus fresh snow due to cold front. For us very cold day therefore we skirted the volcano somewhere below Option 1. Option 1C very nice, but unfortunately for us an agressive cow herd (approx. 60) charged at us on the meadow before the Paso de Pucón Mahuida. The ridge has a small slightly technical and exposed bit at the end, but with possibility to go around. The bushbash down pretty steep but not the worst, only bamboo (there must be a better trail somewhere). Not a person on the whole section.

After sections 8 & 9 and some R&R in Los Ángeles we got back on the same bus now going in opposite direction to get us to our start of section 10.

Getting there.
The bus leaves the Los Ángeles rural bus station at around 14:15 even though the schedule says it leaves at 14:00.
The most interesting part about this 6h journey was getting on the bus.
Luckily we were there almost an hour before and gathered enough info that we have to get in a queue if we hope to get any seats. There was already some line of people when we got there almost an hour early. When the bus arrived and the door opened it was sort of a “Takeshi Castle” where people charged in, scrambing and pushing past each other like mad. By our rough estimates it seemed that we are fine and will have seats even with all the people ahead of us however there was a scheme going on. People would get on the bus and put their bags across two or four seats to book it for someone else without themselves even sitting there. So by the time we got on, it seemed that even though bus was half empty all the seats were already “taken”.
Well, I didn’t agree with this scheme so we moved the bags and still took the empty seats.
We knew how long this bus ride is going to be and standing for that amount of time in a crowded bus was a hard no. There was a little scuffle later when some people returned but with some seat changing and rearrangements those that were in line on time all did get their seats.

So after 6h of sitting on bus (the bus did two longer stops one in Santa Barbara and one in Cauñicú) we arrived at the very final stop of the bus at the end of the road in Butalelbún where the bus turns around (-37.78489, -71.20359). It was super windy and the forecast said it will soon start to rain, it was also half past eight and getting dark. We already started talking with some people on the bus towards the end and they offered to stay at their place somewhere between Trapa Trapa and Butalelbún. We were tempted but still hoped we could hike in at least a little bit.
When we got off the bus there were some more people gathered we talked with one of them and asked if there is a sheltered place somewhere up the 4x4 road for a tent, but the man - Mario offered us to pitch a tent in his garden behind his tool shed. As the wind was picking up and it started to drizzle he actually offered for us to stay in the shed which we happily accepted.

Mario is a local villager that keeps horses and used to work as a guide in Ralco he lives in Butalelbún with his wife and small daughter and is very nice. He has a car and said that for a fee he could drive us somewhere if we needed e.g. up the 4x4 road to Termas De Chancho Ko.
I asked if I could share his WhatsApp nr. here in case other hikers would like to use this offer and he agreed.

Mario Manquepi +56 9 3329 9028

And very importantly there is a shop (kiosk) in Butalelbún that offers a somewhat decent resupply: pasta, canned goods, oil, hamburgesas, pollo vienesa, drinks, chocolate bars, candy etc. (that’s what we saw through the window and what the sign outside mentioned) the kiosk is located here: -37.78532, -71.20343 and there is a bell that you have to ring for someone to come and attend the shop.
Since we had just come from Los Ángeles we didn’t need anything from the shop.
But if you arrive late in Trapa Trapa then calling Mario for a ride to Butalelbún for some shopping is definitely an option. The bus passes through Trapa Trapa roughly 19:30 (really depends on the day of the week) so you could also just wait for the bus to get to Butalelbún.

A few km before Butalelbún there was a sign that said camping, we only saw it while on the bus and I can’t give you a precise location but Mario confirmed that there is a camping somewhere there. So it could be an alternative to staying in Trapa Trapa. Also the bus to Los Ángeles leaves from Butalelbún at 5:30 in the morning and you would most likely get a seat. Though the buses stay overnight in Malla Malla and in the morning go to Butalelbún from there.

Day 1 - Since the day before we didn’t hike at all I only count the days we actually spent walking.

Initially we planned to hike the option 2B but due to very cold and rainy weather we opted for a more sheltered option 1A which turned out to be an excellent choice. Mostly very good trail all the way to connect to option 1.
And since we started from Butalelbún we didn’t have to walk the boring first 9km on the road.
Another bonus for this option was that already about 1.5km from the Bridge {10-01A} [9.0/1137] there was a nice looking campsite with water by an abandoned puesto -37.78871, -71.22362. So even arriving with a late bus from Los Ángeles it should be possible to get there for an overnight.
There was one more option earlier right next to a stream, and well sheltered in the forest, but the ground was slightly slanted, puesto seemed nicer.
There was another sheltered campsite with water nearby further on -37.79904, -71.22790.
In general the 9km walk to connect to option 1 was really nice with plenty of water along the way and two passes. The Pass {10-01A} [14.1/1900] is actually marked in a slightly wrong location and the actual pass with a cairn is here -37.81328, -71.23357. Nice views of the Laguna Inaprachehue and the start of the plateau on the RR, Laguna Liay unfortunately hidden by the forest.
From the pass a short ways down past the puesto (horses and cows) and straight up to the next pass -37.82975, -71.22698 after which the trail traverses a steep slope. Due to the recent heavy rain storms in the area the trail had been damaged and eroded in some places but still walkable.
Right before joining the option 1 there is a ford -37.83599, -71.22817 but we managed to rock-hop across.
Once on the option 1 there was another abandoned puesto with a simple table and log-seats outside, nice place for lunch -37.83890, -71.22406
The trail then shortly after leaves the forest, goes past a few puestos, and dissipates in a cow meadow. From which it we continued CC past some waterfalls over some streams and climbed a very steep gully on loose rocks up towards more desolate and rocky lower reaches of Copahue.
Standing here -37.85475, -71.21840 where option 1B joins the option 1 it honestly didn’t look like option 1B would be possible at least not by the suggested trajectory, it looked steep and cliffy.

It was a pretty cold and windy day with a low cloud at around 2400m. So once we reached around here -37.85748, -71.21723 we deviated from the gpx and made our own way traversing below the option 1 only reaching a maximum elevation of about 2350m instead of 2430m like the gpx suggested. It also helped us to avoid more snow patches though we still crossed a few which were low angled and easy. We rejoined the gpx around here -37.87641, -71.20487 but still mostly followed what seemed to us like better trajectory.
There were a few small streams along the way and once lower down we picked up some sort of a trail again.
Termas Pucón Mahuida seemed ok there was one made pool with a lot of algea in it that would need some cleaning. Though very wet ground around it to get to it and not really any good campsite nearby. So even though we were cold the idea of undressing in the cold wind to get in the terma to perhaps get warm for a moment didn’t seem that appealing so we continued a little bit onwards.
We found a fantastic, sheltered campsite with water nearby, right on the junction where option 1 joins the option 1C -37.89779, -71.17220.
The temperatures were to further drop below 0C at night, so we braced for a chilly night.

Day 2 - Option 1C (Natalie’s and Tomáš’s new route on the boarder of Chile and Argentina)
The cold wind persisted and even though it was less overcast than the day before it was really cold already from the morning.
According to the map the morning walk promised to be an easy breezy along a 4x4 track towards Argentina and it was for about the first 1.5km until we reached the meadow on which there were a lot of cows and bulls.
The first group of around 20 with a big bull among them got alerted by us but they were a bit further from the 4x4 track and across the stream so even though they showed some anxiety about our presence we managed to pass them quickly without an escalation. A bit further we saw the main herd of about 80 cows and the 4x4 track went slightly closer to them. The cows noticed us already from a distance and started acting a bit weird, as we got closer ca. 100m which in my mind is still keeping a safe distance, something triggered them and they all started running, some of them away from us but the majority of the herd seemed to be running right at us, yikes.
Luckily there were bushes nearby so while staying calm we kept our stride and went behind the bushes to seek cover and to get out of their sight which worked. They were all mooing at us but they didn’t continue to chase us and we managed to keep on walking while staying out of their sight behind and around the bushes.
Cows are annoying and hard to read, I prefer being charged by a pack of dogs rather than a pack of cows, I find dogs are a lot easier to understand.
We had it happen to us once before on section 33H, that time we didn’t hide just stood our ground raised our poles and shouted at them and the cows stopped about 10m in front of us and then kept pushing us out of their meadow, also not the most pleasant encounter.
Further along the meadow there was another group of about 30 cows that also got anxious the moment they saw us so we just bushwhacked around them.
Once the road started to climb up we were clear of the cows. Probably the main reason they are so triggered at this time of the year is that they all have calves that they are very protective of. Probably all they have seen are humans on horses i.e. arieros, so when we walk by a strange looking creatures who don’t even command a horse they just freak out. Oh well, it’s part of the GPT, at least we have all these trails thanks to them.

The last water before gaining the ridge was here -37.90611, -71.12002. Getting to the flat ridge top is an easy CC with some trail lower on the ascent. And the ridge is mostly also an easy CC until you get to here: -37.95882, -71.12612 the ridge gets narrower and there is one easy step of downclimbing. After that the ridge remains narrow (not a knifes edge) and since we were going down on it we couldn’t see what’s below and from above it looked like a cliff drop. So from the place where we did the downclimbing step there was sort of a saddle from which we went below the ridge on the north side, traversed underneath the cliffy part of the ridge and then rejoined the ridge. Doing the ridge in this direction that was definitely the better way to do it. Looking back at the cliffs from below I could see that if doing the ridge in the opposite direction one could probably stay on the ridge and find a way through the cliffs with a bit of scrambling since you could see what is ahead where you are going. But coming down on the ridge it just seemed a bit more time consuming and since it was still very cold and windy and we had been walking for over 5h without breaks we looked for what is the fastest and easiest way not the most adventurous.
Then came the BB of the spur above Puesto {10-01G} [0.2/1484] in the beginning there was some trail that then disappeared. We pretty much tried to follow the gpx exactly but there was definitely no trail there. A steep and sometimes very steep BB through the bamboo thicket. It wasn’t too bad but after 6h of walking without a lunch (because it was too cold to stop) the BB felt very annoying. I definitely wouldn’t want to do it in the opposite direction, but people earlier claimed it was easy, so who knows, maybe we were doing it wrong.
I believe there must be a better way somewhere there, either on the same spur or in one of the gullies on either side of the spur, because we saw a bunch of cows on the meadow near the top of the spur. Unless they all got there from the valley north of the ridge on the option 1D trail, because we also saw a lot of cows down in that valley. It was finally time for a lunch by the stream -37.97455, -71.13867 first water since coming up the ridge.
Soon after that the trail reappeared and it was quite pleasant walking once again. Another potential, sheltered campsite on the way: -37.99719, -71.13963.
There was nobody at the Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] except cows but it looked like people would still be actively using it. We skirted around the fence of it and then the trail turned into a minor road that Natalie mentions.
If you are heading towards Guallalí then it’s probably the easiest to just keep following the minor road going west. Our plan was to join the GPT11 RR directly. The trail, if there was any, leaving the road and continuing south was not visible or obvious until you reach the edge of the trees 50m further south. Then some part CC, some part cow trails brought us to the GPT 11 RR.

(Continued in Section 11)

Overall I would say it was very nice and scenic way to do the section 10, we didn’t see a single person the whole way since leaving the Butalelbún. A good weather for this way is definitely preferred but we did it in suboptimal conditions and it was still nice (lucky it wasn’t raining). The main challenges for us were the cold and the cows, the rest was minor.
The plus side to the cold weather was that we didn’t see a single tabano which was a pleasant surprise, compared to sections 8 and 9 when they were very vicious and followed us even on the ridges.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 16th 2025 – Dec 19th 2025 / 3 days (0.5 days on Dec 16th and 19th each) / NOBO / RR, Variant D, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa, 15 days total on the trail.

Day 1: we left late from Romira’s after a large dinner with the idea to make it to Laguna Del Barco on Var D for the night. But our stomachs were just too full and we camped here

Day 2: continued on Variant D to Laguna del Barco and had a long siesta there. We were asked to pay 3000cp per person for entrance but when we said that we had heard in Guallalí that it would be 1000cp per person they didn’t argue with us. We arrived on an early Wednesday morning and the laguna didn’t seem touristy to us. Hardly any people around. No food vendors, no wifi. The bath houses have outlets – and the coldest shower I ever had in my life! Colder than the lake! We spent about 5 hours at the laguna to let the heat of the day pass before hiking up to the plateau. You have to pass through the property on the road to the laguna to get to the ascent. There was no one around when we walked through, signs indicate that they sell tortillas and mote con huesillo there. The hike on the plateau was beautiful with great views! We had decided to sleep on the plateau, we made it to the creek mentioned in the logs before (S 37° 54.077, W 71° 18.470) which carried no water. We didn’t need it. We camped here: S 37° 53.711 W 71° 18.333

Day 3: crossed the rest of the plateau and stopped to fill up our water bottles at the Puesto 10 [14.5/1297]. Shortly after we passed the first open puesto with lots of goats and cows. We got spooked by the dogs and decided not to go up to the man who came out to look at us from a distance. We regretted it a little bit since that really was the only puesto we passed from GPT 12 – 09 that was open. We wanted to get close to Trapa Trapa and camped here: S 37° 45.301, W 71° 17.029 which really wasn’t a great spot.

Day 4: hiked the last couple km to Trapa Trapa, passed a place that looks like a nice spot to camp closer to the village here: S 37°43.522, W 71° 16.403 (it is off the MR by the river after having passed already a couple of houses, I’m not sure if the land belongs to someone). We asked a woman working in her garden (S37° 42.741, W71° 16.062) where we could find food and she offered us lunch if we came back in an hour (rice, chicken, sausage, salad, bread, mote con huesillo for 15000cp per person and she also sold us pasta, rice, flour, harina tostada out of her own stock). The wifi is not open anymore at the health center, we asked for the password and the young man working there gave it to us. He didn’t want us to stay inside the house but let us charge our phones in one of the offices. Most importantly, he gave us the valuable information that there was a new “negocio”/store close to the cemetery. The shop and food/lodging indicated in the GPS files were closed and no people around. The minimarket is here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760. José is the owner and he and his family are very kind. He had opened his little shop in Sept. 2025. They had a pretty good selection and had all and more we needed for the trail except for maybe nuts/dried fruits/fresh veggies (rice, lentils, pasta, flavor packages, harina tostada, flour, oats, cornflakes, cookies, batteries, chocolate powder etc.). We talked a little while, he new the trails in and out of Trapa Trapa well and when he heard about our love for sopaipillas he offered to have some made for us by his wife. He loved hearing about the GPT and offered to help out as best he can. His number: +56 94220 6627. Well supplied we made our way NOBO on GPT 09.

Difficulty: 1/5

Attractiveness: 4/5

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-11 to 2025-04-13 / 2.5 days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, 10C and 10D (Laguna Liay) / Peggy

Day 1: I left late after having a long conversation with Romina at Guallali. I found a good spot before the camping at Laguna el Barco, on the heights above the lake, sheltered from the lake's humidity where I could make my evening and morning fire.

Day 2: Crossing the camping area was deserted at this time. I climbed up to the plateau where I met some motorcyclists (Saturday). At first, I grumbled to myself because of the noise, but they also have the right to enjoy the place in their own way! Come on, Peggy! And in truth, I just followed their tracks all day until I reached Laguna Liay, where I arrived at the right time to take a photo of them! The descent to the lake was a bit tricky. I tried 10C, but I couldn’t find the trail and it seemed very steep. I went back to 10D, which I had tried initially. I got half-lost in the bamboo, losing then finding the cow trail. Once down, I just got some water and then went back up. No way I was going to sleep by the lake in the cold and humidity (autumn, of course!). Once at the top, I took some time to find the right spot (humidity, wind, flat if possible, and maybe a view...). It was late, but I found it, collected some wood, made my fire, and enjoyed the view with the full moon. I slept well!

Day 3: Descent to Trapa Trapa. All the puestos were closed at this time. I didn’t meet anyone. I went straight to the lodging point km0.3 at Mireya’s place and stayed there for 2 nights knowing it would rain all day (and snow at higher altitudes). Be careful, in Trapa Trapa, there’s only network with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, there’s Wi-Fi at the health center (Posta de Salud, at the center – didn’t need to enter a password, connection accessible from the outside).

*"2025-02-17 to 18/ 2 days, SOBO, RR, Henry and Emilie:"

Day 1:
After waking up at a beautiful campsite just outside Trapa Trapa we went down to the store where we bought some more sugary snacks as well as half a kilo of fresh honey! (Possibly too much?) We continued South through Trapa and before leaving were also able to buy some fresh eggs. The trail is well troden through the valley and it is very beautiful though dusty. We came across two very easy fjords through the day and camped at (S 37.812384° O 71.274833°). Throughout the day there were a few aggressive puesto dogs, it seemed to me though that they were smart enough to back off when I raised my stick at them.

Day 2:
After waking up we made our way up to Laguna Liey. A steep but short climb. Getting down to the lake though was another matter. It's steep and for us confusing, we lost the trail on the way down and ended up doing some bush bashing. Made it eventually though, filled up water for the last time until Laguna del Barco (there is no water on the plateau). The way OUT of Laguna Liey was very rough for us. The tracks seemed to lead us straight up a cliff, eventually we made it out my following horse tracks around the cliff to the left. Rest of the day was moderatly easy but long, made it to El Barco after dark and were able to pay for a very slanted campsite (S 37.941382° O 71.284620°) (8000 each). Lots of people selling snacks and bread there and we managed to score some cold beers. The next day we hitch hiked from El Barco back to Los Angeles not completing the section to instead head down South.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-20 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Natalie&Tomas option 3 from GPT11 (border ridge), option 1&2 (Cupahue ascent), RR / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume : both Volcan Cupahue option (1&2) and Natalie&Thomas option (3) to connect GPT11 near argentinian border are really amazing and made to be combined if you can do without Guallali food supply. We highly recommand it if the weather is good. (Thanks a lot Natalie&Tomas !)
Coming from GPT11 we camped at the abandonned puesto at -37.978400, -71.141083 (very good camp spot : peasible, water pool, beautiful araucarias with pinones supply).
Day 1 : Abandonned puesto from GPT 11 > Camp at 2170 under Cupahue
We climbed the ridge dividing the valley in into two following Natalie&Tomas tracks to the north. With the trail slope before the ford, the ascending BB&TL ridge is truely easy. Then easy CC to join the main ridge at about -37.958580, -71.142415 and then following the ridge to the east until the summit/plateau (on the north side sometimes). Really good views on Cupahue and Collaqui following the ridge to the north. We joined and went down the Paso Pucon Mahuida non-used MR until to reach option 1. Passing by the hotsprings which seem ok, we went up until a camp at 2170 under Cupahue glacier at -37.87753, -71.19874. Volcanic ground was pretty easy to hike finally.
Day 2 : Camp at 2170 > Cupahue ascent > Trapa Trapa
Easy CC to the summit (beautiful crater and view) and way down to highest puesto, with also spectacular views to the north. From there, we followed a path with only 100 meters of easy BB (between option 1 and option 1A) and then Option 1 and RR to Trapa Trapa.
We conclued then 6,5 days of GPT 12, 11 and 10 and slept at welcoming Mapuche family home at "Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]".
Manon and Robin continued NOBO and I (Thomas) took the daily 6am bus to Los Angeles.

* '''2024-02-05 - 2024-02-06/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Elijah and Michael'''
No water on plateau after Laguna Liay as previous notes.

Camping at Laguna Barco 8000 CLP per person. Hot food such as sopapaillas, tortillas, completos, etc available. Minishop has snacks, cookies and drinks.

Shop at Guallil had sufficient options for a limited resupply - soups, ramen, pasta, biscuits, etc. Shop also provided accommodation for 30,000CLP including cena and desayuno.

*'''2024-01-31 to 2024-02-03 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Chris & Julia'''

Beautiful araucarias (and yummi piñones), pretty easy trail, Laguna El Barco less romantic and more overcrowded than expected but nice food! No snow, no fords worth mentioning. Also possible in less time.

Day 1: started after resupplying in Trapa Trapa (only cookies) in the afternoon. Camped at [S 37° 45' 18.08" W 071° 17' 01.75"] ~6km (first possible camping spot with water and flat ground). A lot of arieros passing.

Day 2: A lot of puestos. Last water at 14.5km. Trail to the pass is very beautiful, stunning araucarias. We also harvested some low hanging piñones. We reached two by hand (twisting, not pulling, worked for us). For another we used a rope stretched between two long branches. A bit tricky, but it worked. They are not ripe yet, but they taste good raw and even better roasted. We camped at Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] to avoid walking 19km without water. The Laguna there is really just a dirty pond, we spend hours (!) filtering water for two people with our befree, would not recommend sleeping there.

Day 3: Nice and easy trail. We followed a wrong trail at [S 37° 56' 01.04" W 071° 18' 15.57"] for ~2.5 km. At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 8000 CPL per person for camping (has bathrooms + showers). It was pretty crowded (guess because of weekend?). But there were 3 small stands with nice food (Tortillas, Sopaipillas, Completos, some meet stuff,
Softdrinks, & Mote con huesillo -> you should try, super nice chilean summerdrink).

Day 4: Following the trail there is a nice Camp at the Laguna after the official campsite if you prefere a more private spot (we would have camped there if we had known). Met Tobi + Mara from Germany (Viele Grüße :D!). Hitched directly to Ralco from the road. From Ralco there are buses to Los Angeles (at least every 2hours).

*''' 2024-01-29 to 2024-01-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 10E+RR / Dorota Szparaga '''
Day1: A lot of puestos on part till 14.5 km of RR. I had some really interesting talks about the Mapuche conflict and war between Russia and Ukraine. All people were friendly. Camp at Laguna Liay taking OH 10C - easy to find. After that, one woman said to me that near Laguna there is a path where crossed thieves with stolen cows from Guallalli. Very nice and quiet place.

Day2: I came back to the trail tracking back and found a shortcut. Took water from the lake for the whole day. I had a strange case near Laguna in the forest. A big bird tried to attack me. The plateau is amazing. Descending to Laguna Barco at 32.1/1296 there is a puesto and a gate. I decided not to go through camping at Laguna Barco, as there were a lot of people there. Took variant 10E on MR. At km 6.0 of this variant it is possible to buy soft drinks and ice creams. Night at Guallalli at minishop 11 (0.1/951) fideos, sweets, soft drinks. Bed, breakfast,dinner 30000 CLP. Very nice place. In the evening I had a really interesting talk about the Mapuche and animals. This family is not Mapuche. There is a good net here, Entel.

*''' 2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-26 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 10-C, 10-E / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Highlights: Stunning Araucaria forests, encounters with the Pehuenche people living there, Laguna de Liay, puma tracks and puma stories.

Challenges: No water on the plateau. The creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470' has dried out already by this time of the year.

I had lots of friendly encounters with the native Pehuenche and some not so friendly ones with their dogs. I’ve made it a habit to greet people in their language (mari mari), then approach them and introduce myself in Spanish with my name and a handshake. This led to a couple of interesting, informative and friendly conversations with lots of mutual learning.

Day 1

Started in the evening in Trapa Trapa and camped at [7.1/1181], where I met Elias, the owner of this land. He told me a lot about Pehuenche history, his hard but also beautiful and tranquil life in the mountains and about other mochileros who camped on his land.

Day 2

Started late because of hip pain. Higher up the valley two people independently from each other told me that they frequently see pumas (“leones”) on the edge of the plateau, one told me he has sheep “cuando no los comen los leones”, asked me if I had a revolver to defend myself, then reassured me pumas don’t attack people unless feeling cornered or protecting their offspring. One Pehuenche asked me how I know the way. I showed him my GPS device and showed him the track. He was a bit astonished but didn’t suspect any commercial exploitation as had happened previously according to the manual.

I shared Volkers feeling of awe when I saw the group of Araucarias right before the ascent to the plateau. It’s simply beautiful. Took a long food and coffee break there and ascended to Laguna Liay. On the way up, the path is partly heavily overgrown and at times difficult to find between other paths.

Up there I found myself in a fairytale forest in the evening light. I hashed my first glimpse of Laguna Liay shortly before sunset and it was mesmerizing. When looking for the way down to the laguna I lost the path and did some heavy CC BB but after a couple of minutes decided this can’t be the right way, double checked my location using the GPS and found the correct path. Still overgrown, but recognizable and easy to walk.

Camped close to the spot indicated by Nimrod & Tamar. Pure beauty and tranquility!

Day 3

Purified and packed enough water for the day and then continued my ascent to the and way over the plateau. Shortly before the intersection X {10} [17.7/1676] I discovered my first puma tracks.

Checked the little creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470': It has dried out, so the last chance to fill up water before the plateau is at Laguna de Liay (as described in the manual).

At a rock close by I took a siesta/food/coffee break. Lorenzo, a Pehuenche in his sixties, came up from the valley in his horse with three dogs, and had them drive his cattle downhill. He then turned around, rode towards me and offered to carry my backpack on his horse all the way down to Laguna del Barco. I was amazed by this generous offer, but still wanted to carry it myself, so I thanked him many times but declined. Later met him next to his house at X {10} [32.1/1296], where we took photos together and exchanged numbers.

Camped at Laguna de Barco and filled my hungry stomach with a churrasco, a huge serving of French fries, a fruit shake and a Coca Cola. The restaurant closes around 21 opens at 8 in the morning.

Day 4

Bought a sopaipilla (similar to the hungarian lángos) and two tortilla breads and took the variant 10-E to Guallalí. Bad decision because 10-E seems to be the only way to get from and to Laguna de Barco by car, so I got to eat a lot of dust. Good decision, because I got offered a ride a couple of times (politely declined) and one passing driver gifted me cookies and fruits (gratefully accepted). There’s also a house where they sell ice cream. I asked a couple of people with chicken on their yards, if they sell eggs. None had any because most hens don’t lay that time of the year due to the heat as I learned later at the Guallalí shop. In Guallalí, shortly before the police station, I got invited for a coffee, soft drink, tortilla bread with butter and a friendly and very interested conversation with the elder couple who lives there and their family from Los Ángeles. When I left, they also gifted me cookies.

Bought a can of tuna and a pack of tomato sauce at the shop in Guallalí and continued to GPT11.

'''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, OH10C+D (Laguna Liay) / Nimrod & Tamar'''

1st day:
After buying some supplies from a family we started hiking up the valley.
There were some unmarked puestos and tons of nice places for camp.
We asked permission from the family in a puesto to camp in their area and camped at ().

2nd day:
Last water point is near puesto [14.5/1297]. Next water point is near Laguna El Barco on RR or Laguna Liay.

There was a trail crossing at approx (-37.83314, -71.27040). We didn't notice it because the trail which is not on the files is much more clear, and walked on it for 200 meters until we felt something is wrong, and turned back. It might be easier trail up.

OH (10-C) until approx 1 km is partly easy CC because of the fire. From 1 km to 2.1 the trail has changed but it was easy to follow.

TL(10-D) does not exist and was hard BB so we skipped it. There might be another trail going down to the Laguna but we didn't look for it.

Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] is really poor in comparison to the lagoon beach. It was a dirty pond with a lot of cows around. So we hiked back and camped on the beach at (-37.83347, -71.28245).
Had afternoon swim and really nice view!

3rd day:
Easy trails until laguna El Barco. We harvested low hanging piñones we found at (-37.84210, -71.27454).
We recommend bringing a 15 meters cord. We had only 4 meters. The piñones were not ripe yet but were sweet, and could be eaten fresh without roasting.

At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 1000 clp per person only for entrance. There was a small stand which sold fresh tortillas and some junk food. We had a Churrasca, coke, and ice cream 😋.

We discovered that the bus to Los Angeles departs Gulalli at 5:30 so we put an effort to get there before darkness.
When it was completely dark we saw a bus parking in a yard, 1 km before Gulalli! Happy and excited we discovered it was the driver's house, which let us camp in his garden and take a hot shower in his home.

The first bus stop is at the police station and the ride takes approx 5 hours and cost us 3500 clp per person.

* ''' 2025-JAN-09 to 2025-JAN-10 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
Found an excellent campsite: S37° 46.967' W71° 16.896', right on the riverbank and free of cow manure. The river pocket was teeming with trout during the evening feed. A small fly or tenkara gear is recommended for fishing.

* ''' 2024-DEC-24 > 25 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 1/5
| Danger : aucun

Il restait un peu de neige alors j'ai trouvé de l'eau facilement.
Juste avant le Laguna El Barco il y a un camping 5000CLP/nuit pour emplacement, douche glacée, eau potable, électricité et poubelle. J'y suis allé car c'etait marqué qu'il etait interdit de camper près du lac...

*'''2024-DEC-22 to 2024-DEC-23 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A straightforward stage dominated by a relatively flat plateau with araucarias. A highlight of the journey was swimming in Laguna El Barco. We set off from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon along a pleasant gravel road, carrying food for two days. After the ford [9.5/1171], the trail continues through a beautiful and wide river valley, where several puestos are located. We camped at a nice spot, Camp [14.1/1269], under the araucarias. There, we each collected 3 liters of water, as there was none on the plateau, except for one location (-37.90128, -71.30783), where there was a small stream that was not marked in the track files. It’s possible that this stream could be dry during peak summer.

The ascent to the plateau was taken via a more well-trodden and gradual path (approximately 300 meters longer than in the track files, but more frequently used). The plateau itself is a paradise of araucarias with views of Volcán Callaqui. After descending to Laguna El Barco, we first paid 1000 CLP per person for entry at point Lake, Camp [32.9/1292], and then enjoyed a pleasant picnic by the lake while swimming. It’s a beautiful lake.

The route to Guallalí mostly follows a pleasant MR, although it can be somewhat monotonous at times. Upon arriving in Guallalí, we stocked up on supplies for two days for the GPT11 stage at a small shop, Shop {11} [0.1/951] (Mini Shop). They had pasta, rice, tuna, jurel, cookies, and soft drinks.

'''2024-Dec-16 to 2024-Dec-18 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Not much to say for this section it's pretty straight forward. We did it in a relaxed 2.5 days to avoid spending the night in Trapa Trapa but its easily doable in 2.

25.2km water - there was a small stream flowing well here. Could have saved us carrying so much water to camp up on the plateau.

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Continued on to 9

*'''24-12-11 - 24-12-12/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''
A section of beauty and peace
There are few technical things to say about this section, perhaps this: on the way from the valley up to the pass use your device more often than you might feel it is necessary. There are many trails and yours is often not the one you see in front of you, but the overgrown or blocked by a broken tree to your right or left.
The moment you arrive at the first Araucaria trees (though some on the way down to Trapa Trapa on gpt09) is just overwhelming. Camped at Laguna Liay, when I arrived there, I just didn’t want to leave this place.
Day 2: After the short first day, this one promised to become a long one. The plateau is just breathtaking, even after 08+09 the days before. At Laguna El Barco no food, no wifi, but a great opportunity to cool down in the lake. Some km later on RR the MR (good to walk, few rubble, shadow) passes a house, the sheep ran away from me, a lamb left behind, I draw the attention of a woman to the lamb - and was invited for lunch with that very nice „spanish“ (not Pehuenche) family.
Arrived at Guallali at 6.30 p.m., presented at the carabineros (very friendly!), the officer brought me to the „shop“, which is hidden in a garden house (don‘t expect any meaningful resupply).
Camped not far, to the right of RR11, in a small valley beyond some Eucalyptus and Araucaria trees (river not far, but deep down). Two women passed by, first sceptical, then offered to join them and get some bred (declined).

*'''3Dec2024 - 5dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR -varC - RR / 2 days / Clara'''

The ascent and descent of the plateau are awesome, full of araucaria trees and beautiful landscapes of the montains around. Sad that I've to hurry because of bad weather comming.
Fords : easy
Snow : big snow fields from about 1700m alt but easy to cross.
Water : still full on the plateau at this period.
Navigation : often many paths but easy to find the good one with the GPS. A bit more difficult to follow on the ascent after puesto at 14.5. And also around the pass cause the path often goes under the snow fields so needed more gps to stay in the good direction.
Var C : the lake is really nice. Made it with not so much bushbashing by staying closest as possible to the tracks, gps in hand at least at the begining.
Camp : around 8km (water) and camping at laguna el barco was open (5000 CLP/pers/night)

Arrive in Guallali before the rain :
Eat and sleep at the point mini-market with Romina and her family.
30kCLP for bed + lunch + dinner + breakfast.
Mini market : pasta, soups.

Entel phone coverage.

2024-Nov-26 to 2024-Nov-28 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - C, D / Karin

Camp: camp near laguna Liay (km0.1 var D) / Campamento Laguna El Barque (km32.9)

The MR/trail is easy to follow, except for the ascent after puesto km14.5, where the trail is no well visible. All along the valley from Trapa Trapa to the late puesto were a lot of small streams running over the road. Some were easy to cross without getting wet feet, others were a bit bigger, but never more than mid-calf.

From an altitude of 1760m was still snow. The snow on the pass and the plateau was managable, but slows down quite a bit and makes navigation more challenging. This on a distance of about 8km.

As there is still snow, there is a lot of water. Even on the plateau were a few streams, which will probably dry out during summer.

The camping at the Laguna El Barque was still closed. I asked two men how were working on the cabañas if I could pit up the tent anyways. This was not a problem and they did not charge me for this. At the camping were sanitary instalations, tables...

I arrived Guallalí at 12hrs. Because of the snow, I decided to go to Los Angeles. The carabineros station was empty, so I went to the minishop (gpt 11 km0.1) and asked when the buses leave. The owner told me that there is only one bus everyday at 5.30 am. But I could try to hichhike. While waiting, two locals came by and told me that in the next community (Chenqueco) are more cars going to/in direction of Ralco and that from there I would be more lucky.
About 5min later a car drove by and took me to this community. From there I hichhiked again.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-19 // 1,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel'''

I was a bit anxious on that section because of a big fire on the valley of the vokcan Copahue. Everything was under the steam all around, and with a big smell of fire. Few helicopters passed, and I was seriously questioning myself to continue or not.

Fortunately for me the track change of the valley to reach the beautiful Laguna El Barco.

It was late on the season so there were absolutely no one there. But In season that would be a great camp spot (event if it's probably popular and not so quiet as there's a lot of camping places).

Fill your water at the bottom of the valley because when you'll reach the plateau you'll have no water at all, until you go down to the valley.

Plateau is pretty nice, met a lot of people up there harvesting piñones. Easy horse track to follow. Ground is sandy and very steamy on the way down. Then you arrive on a valley with lot of water and lor of arrieros, great to chat with some of those that are leaving around there.

I crossed the Ford {10} [9.5/1171] then camo just after that. Had a great and quiet night there, happy to clean myself after a very dusty day, but I reckon it's gonna be like that for few sections further north aha !

Then easy track, gravel and road. No more ford to cross. Until the tiny trapa trapa.

Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).

* '''2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Started in Trapa Trapa around 15:30 and walked to right before camp 7.1. Hid in the forest to camp instead of using the nice grassy area as a lot of people on horses were using the trail.

Day 2 - Felt worried about the multiple puesto dogs and the aggressive person along the RR and option 1 so decided to try a new route to eventually rejoin GPT option 2, the trail to the summit of Copahue (pronounced Copaway). Went cross country going South from my 7.1 camp for a while until I started climbing East. Eventually joined a trail that seemed to get good use. There is probably no need to go cross country if you find the start of that trail… Left the trail at -37.78784, -71.25114 and went CC again on the plateau. Met a couple harvesting piñones and chatted with them. As I was leaving, their dog nipped my ankle… so much for avoiding dogs. Stopped by Laguna Negra (-37.81527, -71.21972) for lunch and water. Camped by a small lake at -37.83042, -71.20250. Beautiful views around that area. There were patches of old (last year’s) and new (last week’s) snow. In the evening, I went to investigate a direct route to Copahue up the peak at -37.83807, -71.20001, but felt that it was a little too exposed for me and my big backpack.

Day 3 - Took a slightly lower route on the West side of previously mentioned peak to Copahue from my campsite which worked great. Water at -37.83722, -71.20762 and also further depending on the snow quantity. Rejoined the marked OSM trail up to Copahue at around 2,750 meters of elevation, where I left most of my gear and went to the summit. The hike down from the volcano was very slow going, I followed the OSM route mostly but at times I was in between the GPT line and the OSM line. Went to check out the hot springs, which looked gross to me. Camped at -37.89625, -71.16599, on the road leading to Argentina.

Day 4 - I wanted to try the new option that Nathalie and Tomas have posted below for this section, so I followed the road to Argentina up to the valley that parallels the border and made my way to the ridge. Views from the ridge are spectacular and I enjoyed that part very much, following the border at first and ending up here: -37.95833, -71.11928. Difficulties came when I tried to come down the ridge following the route posted on FB. I backed out of the proposed “best route” as it was too exposed and scrambling-like for my liking. I ended up going down the steep talus slope for a while, traversing as Natalie described and ended up doing a fair amount of unpleasant bush-bashing to reach the trail at the bottom of the valley. There are probably better routes than the one I took though, I didn’t have the opportunity to study the satellite imagery very well before going :-). Looking back I should have walked in the creek bed earlier rather than fight with all the bamboo. Ended up with a fair amount of scratches and ripped pants. Camped shortly after I found the trail in the valley.

Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.

* '''2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi'''

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for our tips on pinones

Nothing to add that's not described below, except we found the native Pehuenche people friendly. We think it helps to great them in their language (Mari mari - hello; Chaltu may - thank you). This you can find with a bit of digging online. Would love to have interacted with them more - they seem friendlier up the valley at the puestos (not in trappa trappa).

No luck finding asado in this time of year due to touristic things shutting down (including campsite at Lago El Barco, completely deserted).

There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)

* '''2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, all fordings very easy, plenty of (unmarked) water except from Puesto RR 14.5km (one stream a few hundred meters afterwards last water) to shortly before Laguna El Barco. Tabanos: 2

The valley south of Trapa-Trapa is first narrow but the open ups to a wide valley with a lot of puestos, mostly inhabited, which means a lot of dogs and cows, horses, sheep around. All marked campsites are completely full of animal feces, every single decimeter is covered. I camped around -37.78551,-71.27975 on sand next to the river, sandy and stony places are the only one without extrem amounts of shit. Stayed there another day just sleeping in the tent bc of all day raining. Next camp was a nice weather camp with great views but no water at -37.89069,-71.30189. Flat spot, no shit, very quiet, some boulders and bushes.

RR out of the valley up to thea area of Laguna Liay was a bit tricky. Seems part of RR are not in use anymore and overgrown ( -37.83346,-71.2705 ). I just followed the horse tracks which later went back to RR. it seems there are different paths going up.

Lake, camp 32.9km: camping 8000, picknick 5000. But nobody at the gate, so I just walk in, swimm a little and try to open my first Araucaria seed cone I harvested an hour before. Shortly before I leave someone asks if I paid the entry. Sorry bro, not going to pay 5000 for sitting 30min on a bench, so I just don't understand spanish at all until he gives up.
Next to Laguna El Barco a wildfire puts a lot of smoke on the water, but no fire in the sky. 2 helicopters pour water on it the whole day. RR southeast of the Laguna was not affected, the fire (actually only lots of smoke) was on the other side of the valley about 1km away.

Rio Lomin had very brown-yellow water, but there are a few small clean unmarked streams further south RR.

Guallali tiny shop, no sign, just go over the little wooden bridge after the police and shortly before the school. Dog alarms child, child alarms mother. Mother opens shop. Mostly cola and chips, ice cream, some cookies, 3 packs of noodles and (worst quality) toilet paper.

Some really nice views at the waterless part, first massive amount of Araucaria trees, Laguna El Barco is kinda nice too, finally a lake with trees around! Lots of boring road walking at the beginnig and more so at the end of section with basically no traffic.

* '''2024 Feb 28 to Feb 29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Day 0: Trapa Trapa- Camp -37.76398, -71.28171

On our last day of the previous section, we hiked the first 7 km to this camp. Great bivouac spot not to be missed, next to a puesto with grass, water, horses and welcoming vegetation.

Day 1: Camp -37.76398, -71.28171 - Laguna El Barco:

Truly magnificent scenery and lots of puestos. The climb is pleasant and in the shade. As soon as you cross a river, it's easy (maximum knee-deep).
From laguna Liay to laguna el barco, NO WATER. We initially wanted to camp between the two, but were forced to push on to laguna el barco to get water. The scenery is really beautiful and easy to walk on the plateau, and the aracaunia trees give it a unique atmosphere.
Pay camping at el barco (8,000 pesos per person) with beach and friendly staff.)

Day 2: Laguna el barco - Guallali

A short day's descent. We stop at the bus stop indicated in the waypoints at 3pm. Only one bus a day from Guallali to Los Angeles at 5:30 am.
We were lucky and hitchhiked to Ralco.

* '''2024 Feb 13 to Feb 18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D, some off GPT track / Michael and Kasia '''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR: beautiful section with some very impressive araucaria forests. Technically easy but navigationally a little challenging due to so many trails branching everywhere. Laguna Liay is definitely worth visiting.

Day 1 - Feb 13

After finishing our resupply in Trappa Trappa, we started on RR. The road was fully exposed until we got up a ways into the forest. After that I had to watch the GPS fairly closely. As has been noted previously, the horse trails fork off in different directions, sometimes rejoining and sometimes not. The trail was pretty dusty, but the forest was beautiful. There was very little water access for quite awhile. We arrived at the camp point at km 7.1 with the Mapuche family. No one was at the house so we started looking around. I found Elías in another part of the property. He was very kind and said we were welcome to camp. He showed us a nice spot near a creek set away from the road. We had initially thought to camp more in the open area but he said that the road gets a lot of traffic in the night and the are some “mala gente” that pass through, so the spot he showed us was safer.

Day 2 - Feb 14

We started hiking early and the morning light on the landscape was absolutely beautiful. We stopped after the first ford, mid calf with little current, to have coffee and enjoy the area. We continued on passing a lot of puestos. Many seemed abandoned or falling apart, though there were people at several of them. We waved and they waved back, but they were fairly far from the road so we didn't go over to talk. We met our first other GPT hikers, Christof and Alex (hi guys! We hope you got the roasted chicken in Antuco!) We crossed the second ford, just under the knee, and had lunch and a nap and then started up to the pass. The path was mostly in forest, and though steep, we didn't find it difficult. We started on Var C to Laguna Liay sticking more to the OSM track than the GPT track. We got down to the lake and wanted to go all the way around to the north side, but part way up the trail started heading up to the plateau. We returned to the bottom and tried to walk in the water counterclockwise around the lake, but after only about 50 m there was a section where I was sinking deep into mud. We walked back to the south side beach and then walked the beach clockwise to get to the north side. There were a few fallen trees to climb over, but otherwise we had no issues going that way. On the north side there was a fairly sizable sand beach with a fire ring. We camped there.

Day 3 - Feb 15

We took a rest day at the lake. The atmosphere at the lake was so peaceful and the scenery was so beautiful. Not one person passed through that day, and it felt really amazing to have such a quiet, serene and beautiful place all to ourselves. It got hot during the afternoon so we retreated up into the woods a bit to get some shade. In the late afternoon I went to scout Var D for the next day. There isn't a full trail there really, but from the beach looking uphill I could see a brown stripe going up. It was a short BB to get to it and then a steep up. The trail forked after maybe 50 m. I first went left, but after a while it was all dead ends and started to lose elevation. I went back and tried the right fork with a combination BB/CC and was finally able to connect to a path. From there it was easy to get up to the plateau and then to the other marked campsite which was near a pond that had mostly evaporated for the season.

Day 4 - Feb 16

We started early to get over the pass before it got hot. We took the scouted approximate Var D up and then connected in with RR. The pass was easy and on the far side there was an incredible monkey puzzle forest. As noted there was no water. We took the OSM track up just before the descent to Laguna El Barco for the lookout. The trail down to Laguna El Barco was somewhat steep but easy to follow. At the bottom it passes through a puesto on the way to the road. The guy there also rents camping sites. The El Barco campground is somewhat chaotically managed. We arrived on a Friday and it was packed with vacationing Chilenos. Posted price was 5.000 pp for the picnic area day use and 8.000 pp for camping. They offered 6.000 pp without a table, which we took. It turns out that that is for essentially an unused parking spot next to the road. We would have left, but it was too late to go anywhere else. A very nice couple happened by as we were setting up and said they were about to leave and we could have their spot which had a table and was away from the road. We thanked them and moved up. The shop seems not to be operating this year. The small building it was in was empty and the door was just hanging open. There were two groups selling food, one at the entrance selling tortillla, a fairly large and dense bread cooked directly in the ash in the fire for 2.000 each, some smaller pan amasado, sopaipillas 500 each, a fried dessert bread dusted in powdered sugar 3 for 1.000, and churasco for 4.000. They also had sodas, 1.200 for a 591 ml bottle. The other group was at a camp just past the lower bathrooms, and two of them walked around the campground periodically as well. They had tortilla 2.000 each, sopaipillas 2 for 1.000, and some kind of tea. The second place had our favorite tortillas, we ate several of them. The churrasco was a disappointment. I was thinking Bolivian churasco which is just grilled meat. These were sandwiches with a couple thin strips of meat simmered in liquid in a frying pan and then put on huge breads with a slice of tomato, a bit of lettuce and some mayo. They were okay, but not what I had expected.

Day 5 - Feb 17

We left late and hiked RR. On the other side is another much smaller and more laid back campground. It is run by the couple that lives there. Price was 6.000 pp with a table. They had a toilet and sinks, no shower. They sold tortillas on request, 2.000 each, but the woman, Clementina, makes them when she's making their food, so it can be awhile. We bought 5 of them and they were larger than the ones in the campground. Wrapped in paper towels and kept in plastic bags, these lasted us almost 5 days.

Day 6 - Feb 18

We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-21.9]

Both Fords are easy below knee + the RR crosses a few more streams during the first 14 km. There is no water on RR after the Ford at km 14.1 until km 32.1.

Day 2: RR [21.9-32.1] + OH10-E + RR [45.1-47.5]

At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was a nice and easy section. For us, the Laguna Liay would deserve to be on RR. It was one of the most beautiful and peaceful campspot we had this season.

We also camped on the official campground at Laguna El barco. It was still 8000 CLP pp and the place was crowded with all the Chileans on holiday. The beach is nice but the campground is really dusty (as most of the section). There were also two families selling food (tortillas, sopaipillas and some other things).

By the way, there is no more snow on the plateau so take plenty of water to cover the distance between Lago El Barco and Laguna Liay.

* '''2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes'''

From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.

* '''2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian'''

After have a nice breakfast with the lovely family, i keep going south.

Km0 - km13.6 : easy walking, easy to follow.

Km13.6 : junction of RR and {10-01}.

Ford[14.1/1269] : if you are not decided go to {10-C} or visit Laguna Liay (lake), it is the last water until km33 Laguna El Barco ( or a stream just before this lake ).

Km14.47 : climb up start, the entrance is beside the corner of wooden fence.

Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.

Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.

{10-C} km0.33 : (-37.83379, -71.27817) a sandy slope steep going down, the trail to Laguna Liay (lake) is here, you can see some trail trace on the sandy slope. A little overgrown and sometimes fallen tree block your way, but mostly you can step over them. About 10min you will arrive a sandy beach (-37.83326, -71.28031) at km0.5. Not a camping spot, but here have some big trees fell in the lake, easy walking on them go to the lake for collecting better water. Good view point of Laguna Liay with Volcán Callaqui, i also saw some beautiful ducks with red brown body and blue beak swimming here!

After collecting water and a long nap, i decided back to RR, i took another trail on the sandy slope that closer to lake side (not shown on map), it is easy to follow and easy walk, lastly join RR at km16.5.

RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!

Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!

Km26.6 : left side, Volcán Copahue!

Km31.4 : pass, from dirt road to trail going down, but before going down, there is a side trail to south for climbing up a small hill, just distance 500m and climb up 70m, go for it! Excellent view point of Laguna El Barco, Volcán Callaqui, Volcán Copahue and Volcán Lonquimay( Sierra Nevada behind it?) !

X[31.2/1469] : a campground with picnic table ( i think it is a paid area because a sign at front gate but didn't see anyone when i passed there) and a stream flowing nice with clear water just before it. If you don't decide go to Laguna El Barco for collecting water, it is the only water until Guallalí.

Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.

Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).

{10-E} km10.0 rejoin RR.

RR km46.05 : look like a very old shop, I saw a sign for candy and cigarettes, but the house is broken and no people there any more.

Shop {11} [0.1/951] : No sign for shop, it is a beautiful looking wooden house, cross a tiny wooden bridge to their front gate. A little better stock than i think before, more than the shop at Trapa Trapa and almost the same as Los Álamos. Pastas, rice, some canned food, biscuits, drinks and chips. Not picky and i resupply for 3 days food here. I asked for accommodation, and the female owner said can stay in their house, 30000 CLP for a single room(4 beds) with light, quilt and electric charger, shower(cold) with shampoo, dinner and breakfast, maybe can use their washer for laundry, but finally i use my hand for washing them, because my clothes are too dusty and don't want to pollut their machine. It has a feeling look like guesthouse at some tourist routes in Nepal, but of course the one in Nepal are much commercial.

Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!

I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.

(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.

* '''2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella'''

TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people

Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.

Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…

Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!

Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.

* '''2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie'''

Note: Our path was of course convoluted. We walked the optional route 10-01 to Volcán Copahue last year. It is splendid and recommended for our option, but this time we opted for the RR, as we have not walked it previously. We came back to the area to find a new connection that would avoid almost 25 km of unpleasant roadwalking after Laguna El Barco. We suceeded, see below.

We followed the regular route to Laguna el Barco. The route and the Laguna are indeed very pleasant. We paid 1000 each to be able to pass through (?) and use the camping tables for lunch. The store was closed even on Saturday (Dec 23). About 300m from the lagoon, there is a sign about Entel coverage and 4g indeed works decently there. We then took the minor road to the hot spring under Volcan Copahue (elevation 1812, name Pucon Mahuida).

No cars seem to be using the road, especially the second part is quite eroded and after the hot spring it is bordering on impassable for cars. The hot spring is still nice. We then followed the road to an incredibly beautiful valley under Copahue. Few hundred metres before reaching Argentina, we left the road and shortly found a path that traversed into the valley in the south next to the border. The path petered out once we got above the bushes. It was really easy to reach the ridge and folow it (and the Argentinian border) to 37.9575000S, 71.1211474W. With snow all around on the slopes and with condors circling us, it was stunning (the ridge is mostly snow free). Made camp under the summit next to a 10m-high wall of ice for wind protection. There was no path but walking was easy, the ridge is rather flat and wide.

There are three options we explored from there on. The recommended one is the last one we explored, but here they follow in chronological order. Continuing on the ridge towards Cerro Dedo would require climbing or exposed traversing (if one dropped to Argentina, one could probably find a path to reconnect to GPT after Cerro Dedos if there ius no police in the area). Instead we went down side of the mountain roughly to here: 37.9650794S, 71.1206588W (it was steep but full of stones, so not slippery and we did not think it was dangerous). Then we started traversing (it did not feel exposed, but was a bit strenuous) until about here: 37.9792148S, 71.1245764W, from where we started going down a narrow ridge that was flanked by creeks on both sides. Again it was not dangerous and first half was good CC (like all the previous traverse), the second half was part cow trail (with cow poop), part bush bashing, but surprisingly easy and painless with long sleeeves.

At the bottom of the valley, we came out on a clearly visible trail. We went up it further into the valley, where there was a deserted puesto on a meadow under enormous araucaria trees with a magnificent views on snowy slopes full of huge waterfalls. We made camp.

In the evening, Tomáš then went to explore a scary looking ridge to reach this peak:
37.9767704S, 71.1623784W. It turned out not to be scary. The sidehill up the ridge is mostly without trees or bushes, so it is steep but good CC. Once up the ridge, one can go around the pinacles from the southern side (left facing up), occasionally using the tree branches as support - there is a little of easy climbing, but with no exposure. Then the ridge is steep and somewhat narrow but one can mostly go up only using poles and not hands. Altogether SAC 5. It was fun and pretty, but caution needs to apply. From the top, one could easily traverse north towards here: 37.9611427S, 71.1539942W.

The next day, we went up a ridge dividing the valley we slept in into two (this one: 37.9714484S, 71.1414231W). There is a trail up that branches off the main valley trail about 300 m downstream of the abandoned puesto. One goes up a slope for about 400m and then down to a ford and then up. There are a variety of cow trails with bamboo cut some time ago. It is partly bush bashing, but very easy and just a few hundred metres. Once up the steep slope, the trail is much clearer. Above the tree line, it is easy CC. Once you get up the main ridge, you can either go right to the peak we slept the days before (a walk up - no need to use hands, the rocky features can be easily skirted, SAC 3-4) or left to the coordinates that end the previous paragraph. From there one could go down to the valley in the north and either CC and ford (probably possible, but unceartain) or follow the road/path that is mapped in OSM (look it online, it was only added in late November) toward El Barco. Navigating this SOBO is much easier, we posted the GPX route of the most tricky part and a rough overall route painted over satellite image in the Facebook group and hopefully it will be included in the GPT next year [November 2024: it is in our suggstions together with a lot of exploratory options].

Going down the valley to reconnect to the GPT leading from Gaulali is easy 5 km on a clear trail. Once you hit car tracks (almost in the main valley) that will soon turn left, you can probably follow one of the trails going straight and save yourself maybe a 0.5 km detour to a puesto here: 38.0095590S, 71.1391237W. From the puesto, there is a very ugly road that was enlarged this year all the way to Guallali. Going NOBO, you reconnect to the trail going to Cerro Dedos very soon and thus almost entirely eclipsing the roadwalk. Plus our proposed new route is really pretty.

From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in-front-of-the-turnoff-to-the-carabinieros-station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, but ask at the station.

* '''2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans'''

Took the bus from Ralco to Trapa Trapa, start of GPT10. 2 busses a day, 4.30 and 16.30. I was at the busstop at 4.10, but the driver probably didn't expect anyone and took a shortcut and therefore didn't pass the busstop. So if you want to take that one, walk 100m further to the crossing of the main road.
16.30 no problems, plenty of people taking that bus. Total of 2.5hrs to get to Trapa Trapa.

Missing the bus gave me time to explore Ralco a bit, plenty of shops, turist information center and a Museum about the Pewenche. Small, but worth a visit (1000 CLP).

Didn't explore anything in Trapa Trapa since I wanted to cover some gound before darkness. Did see some signs of shops tho.
Easy trail, no issues here. Ended up to camp at: Camp 10 [7.1/1181]. Got woken up by some cows and horses in the morning.

Took the route (C) along the lake, also with the intention to get some extra water for the plateau. Although there was plenty at the plateau (for now), at least 5 good streams and more small ones. All because of the melting snow, so I don't know for how long that will be in the upcoming weeks.

Walk was easy, pass is easy, some snow/ice walking but all stable. You might be taking a little caution when it starts melting more but walk around the snow is also an easy option.

I camped at the plateau, almost at the end just before you walk into the greenzone again. On the right side is a flat spot next to some trees and bushes.

Next day via Laguna el Barco, some people camping there, no one at the entry so didn't had to pay anything. Easy walk again. Took option (F) and first house on the left after crossing the bridge had a sign that they sold ice cream. Stopped there, friendly people and as they told me they will sell more stuff in the future. It also looked like that, they were constructing a store, shelves, counter everything. Just no inventory yet. Unclear when they will, at least to me with my limited Spanish.

Reached Guillali easily, had a chat with the local Cabaniero. He gave me a Entell Sim-card so I could have cell service. Stayed at Romina. Bed, dinner, breakfast 30.000 CLP.

Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.

* '''2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : a little bit of snow around the pass, super easy to navigate

- Camping spot : easy to find
- River crossing : easy

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : there is a small 'negocio' in Trapa Trapa, and you can have breakfast with a really nice family at the 'lodging and food'

- Option roads : Variant C - really nice lake, just a little bit of bushbashing to rejoin the RR

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-07 to 2023-Mar-09 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

After a night in Guallali, we continued on GPT10. This section is short and awesome, definitely worth hiking!

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.

On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way.
The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered.

* '''On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked.'''
The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections).

Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).

* '''2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš'''

The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to Trapa Trapa from Los Angeles, it was long... 5+hours and it leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable, we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more.
Arrived in Trapa Trapa at ~7:30pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping (there are nicer spots just a bit further).

Day2
Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously, but there is also a nice water source earlier here: -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.

Day 3
We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although we found the path the day before, we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucarias, the trail is clear and non-bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434.
Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son: genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall-fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to this pass, although beautiful, took a long time!
At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far.
The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs.
We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.

Day4
We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road to Guallalí.

The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river (glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?), it feels like the era of the dinosaurs. The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.
Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR. From there we walked about 3 km to Guallalí.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi'''

Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01.
Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain.
We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.
The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.

* '''2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will '''

Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake.

I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route.

Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail.

Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods.

The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful.

Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.

* '''2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza. On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher '''

We started from Trapa Trapa around 11 am after finishing section 9. The first part nearly until Laguna Liay is an easy walk on dirt roads/nice paths with several water sources.
We met some pehuenche people who greated us friendly, only one man mumbled if we had a 'permiso' to pass there (we couldn't understand him very well). But then his friends told him to let us pass, he went away and we continued walking.
On the last km to Laguna Liay there is a lot of bush bashing. But it's definitely worth it, a very nice camping spot up there.
The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco.
At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica '''

Route: Trapa Trapa - Laguna Liay - Laguna El Barco - Guallalí

Two days from Trapa Trapa to Guallalí. Easy trail up the valley towards Laguna Liay. Didn't see anyone, most of the puestos appeared unoccupied. Lovely araucaria grove at the base of the big climb to Laguna Liay. The trail during the climb was overgrown/hard to distinguish in some places, and had a few areas of blowdowns too, which made the going slow during that bit.

I took Option C around Laguna Liay, which I found to be a frustrating maze of cow paths. One minute it's nice and clear and then it disappears, leaving me to bushwhack my way along until I stumble upon it again. The lake is beautiful though, and it's the last water before Laguna El Barco, so I filled up a couple litres. Met my first other GPT hikers in 3 weeks there too, they were going NOBO. Really beautiful up on the plateau of araucarias.
There was no one at Laguna El Barco when I got there around lunchtime, no one selling food either. Spent over an hour there enjoying the shady picnic tables and the beach.

Easy trails/4×4 tracks the rest of the way to Guallalí. The two NOBO GPT hikers I met yesterday got charged 10,000 pesos by some local Mapuche folks to pass through this area, but I (again) didn't meet anyone.
The shop in Guallalí is very limited. When I saw the selection, I decided to take the bus the next morning to Ralco, it leaves at 5:30 am. The shop owner was also not offering accommodation, but pointed me to the lovely araucaria grove across the street to camp. There is Entel cell service here :)

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-27 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] : the place is nice, as mentioned there are lot of bins, the camping is also very nice and the showers still very cold. They charged me $5.000 for the night. It was written "with no (something I didn't manage to read)" on the bill so if they charge you $8.000 you can try to specify you don't have car, or I don't know... They removed the panel for the grocery just after I asked for it so it's now fixed, there is no grocery. The family selling cooked food wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

- Close to GPT10-C Start there is a point of view on the whole valley, it's beautiful and you can see all the puestos

- Just after it there are many paths to go down, I haven't taken the one from the GPS but it's very easy to reach it then

- Around Puesto {10} [14.5/1297] an arriero told me there are 2 paths going down the valley, one on each side of the river, I've followed the GPT to try to reach Trapa Trapa before the night so I didn't go further about them but if someone try

- Around fords there are often a "bridge" made of one massive plank, the same arriero told me about some so they probably check each year they are usable. You just have to look for it, but it can not be the case at some points

- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met

* '''2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo '''

In one day from Trapa Trapa to Laguna Liay, camping at the north side. There are many cow trails leading down to the laguna. The one we took seemed suitable for hikers too. Going back up the next day we got lost in the cow maze though, and only by searching for our own footprints from the previous day did we get back on the RR. It may be worth having a look at our GPS tracking data to figure out our initial path.

The next day continued to Guallalí. Beatiful plateau! Got to harvest our first piñones as well! However, we hurt the araucaria tree by breaking off a small but not insignificant branch when trying to get the green "pinecone" to break off, using the "strong rope" method described in the hiker's manual. Only later we learned you should go for the brownish, "café"-colored cones. Just hit these with your walking stick and the piñones will fall right off. You then collect them from the ground. The threatened araucaria will be much happier not being hurt :)

When in need of water at the plateau, there should be a path to Laguna Totora from S 37° 54.510', W 071° 18.580', according to an arriero who passed by. Maybe a future optional route?

The optional routes 10-E and 10-G have become MR instead of TL.

The lodging at the shop in Guallalí was not avaible, but the shop owner pointed us to an araucaria grove closeby (you can enter via a wooden gate next to the escuela). We camped there: S 38° 02.647', W 071° 16.441'. There were some villagers passing by, so it seems to be public land. There's a small stream to the east with quite clear water. Maybe it's possible to camp more upstream to the north, where there are bridges and where the stream has passed fewer houses.

Continued to GPT11 immediately after.

* '''2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

Between Guallalí and Laguna el Barco is mainly gravel road, but sometimes there are small, discrete paths that connect them, so keep an eye on the GPS.
The camping at Laguna el barco is now 8000 per person. There are toilets, very cold showers and many garbage bins. There is also a family selling tortillas (bread baked in the ash) and sopaipillas, as well as some other people who come down in the evening and morning selling tortillas. There's a shop advertising ice cream, bread, sodas and other stuff, but it's closed. The people at the camping told us that it would open at 13, and then at 20, and then next day. A lady who had stayed there for a week said it had been like that the whole week, so I wouldn't count on it being open. As noted, you can ask the campground people to charge your phone. All in all, it was a nice campsite.
Shortly after, the big climb starts. You have to pass through a fence and by some houses - again keep an eye on the GPS. We were charged 1000 per person, probably wouldn't happen for people going southbound.
As warned, there was no water on the plateau until Laguna Liay. At the camp-waypoint, there is a very small lake, it doesn't look like the best drinking water, and the path directly to the lake seems very overgrown. Instead, we continued around the lake and found a decent campsite on the far side. The path around the lake is faint at best, and we ended up doing some serious scrambling down a cliff, however when we got down we found a path coming more from the right, so maybe there's a better way. The walk around is pretty, though.
After the descent, the rest is easy walking past many puestos.
In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. Very nice family, they might be away in their puesto sometimes though. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. They were building a cabaña when we were there. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. Apart from that there are two other minishops, one in each direction, which we didn't check out.

The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony '''

After finishing GPT9 I went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food.
Like already mentioned by others, remember to bring a lot of water for the following section. The plateau you climb up on after El Barco lake was very dry. Next water source with good clean water was at Laguna Liay. I was getting desperate for water, so I took variant D directly down to the laguna. The trail was very overgrown and requires some bush bashing. Frustrating amounts of mosquitos and horseflies in this part of the section, might be worth bringing some mosquito spray!

Next section towards trapa trapa was nice and easy with perfect weather and plenty of water.
Found two mini-shops in Trapa Trapa with only limited supplies. A bus to Ralco, leaves weekdays 6:00 in the morning. Therefore I spent the night in a room that a local Mapuche family were renting out. Was served a very big plate of grilled sheep meat and really enjoyed talking with the family. Later in the evening the father returned home very drunk. He was nice and talkative but I was getting at bit of a bad vibe from him, so thanked them for the food and went off to bed. Later at night I was awaken by someone vigorously trying to open the door which I thankfully locked. Rest of the family woke up and I heard a mans voice shouting something about “extranjero” and soon after the abuela kicked this guy out of the house.

Instantly thought I was gonna get robbed, but might just have been a drunk family member or the father who had forgot I was sleeping in their room. Hard to say… Apart from this I really enjoyed interacting with the locals in this region and I’ve had a lot of nice and memorable experiences.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb-02 / Incident on GPT10 at Puesto-55 Location S 37* 49‘ 31.79‘‘ / W 71* 16‘ 23.38‘‘ / Published on behalf of Trevor Mattson'''

"Sad to report that i had a very negative experience about 15km into section 10 on sunday (2/2). I was offered food and a place to camp by a very nice pehuenche lady (miriam, goes by "mila", the puesto after puesto 55 marked as "puesto, food" at the beginning of the OH route right after it splits from RR) only to have her husband come home later an try to rob me. She was extremely friendly. Although he was noticeably intoxicated, he was also nice at first as we joked, drank maté an collected firewood together. After a couple hours, as the sun was almost completely gone (~10pm), he went inside his puesto, grabbed a knife, an approached me from behind as i sat around the fire with his wife. He marched me to my tent with the knife pressed againt my neck. I allowed him to search it (he kept saying "plata, plata, plata" an his Spanish wasn't very good) which gave me the opportunity to pick up a rock an intimidate him a bit. I had a lot of money an wasn't just gonna let him take it and all of my stuff up in the mountains at night. His wife then came an tried to get between us / protect me (she was pleading him to stop). He was shoving her around, but this gave me just enough time to rip my tent out of the ground, which had all my stuff in it, an quickly drag it to the nearest puesto (~100metres). He followed me on horseback after a minute or two an the family there armed themselves with sticks an told him to f**k off.

I hiked for a few hours through the night an met an incredible family at around 1700metres on the optional route (papa named exequel). They told me that he (bernardino from "puesto, food") has robbed a "chino" (means anyone that looks even remotely asian in my latin American experiences) in the past an that "se vuelve loco" when he drinks vine. I bought more cheese from bernardino an his wife than i wanted/needed as a nice gesture an we seemed to get along, so this was reassuring that he was just crazy an it was nothing that i did to provoke him. In other words, i behave according to the manual provided by Jan an it is not at fault.
All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well.
Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"

* '''2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single.
2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.

* '''2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section was well marked/distinguished relative to all the other sections on thus far. There were many Puestos along the way as well. This was also the first section where the araucaria tree is very prevalent across the landscape. This section was my final section on the GPT and the araucaria trees and the lush green landscape provided good contrast to the semi-desert climate south of Santiago de Chile.

Difficulties:
There was a small 12km ish section without water close to the pass.

Highlights:
Change in landscape. Great views of the many volcanoes in the area.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.

* '''2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

- Nice hike with no major difficulties. The plateau with the araucarias after the pass is amazing!!!

- No river when you leave the valley toward the pass and then down to the other valley BUT, as I wanted to sleep on this plateau (25 km after the start of the section) I found a small river 300 meters on the right from the regular track and camped at this place : S37,895511° O71,308919° Wonderful sunset!!!

- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!

* '''2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 3.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. The 0.5 day we had left from arriving in Guallali we spend buying food and hitch hiking to the campground at Laguna el Barco. We did so because we expected rain soon and wanted to camp it out. Also we were not too keen for the gravel road part.

We liked: Nice araucaria trees, an amazing sunset we saw a tad south of Laguna Llai and after section 11 and 12 the easy terrain.

We did not like so much: The horsflies.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections. It took us 3.5 days via regular trail SOBO.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked minimarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

- Accommodation: The house marked "lodging, food" charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner.

- Shopping: Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. There is a panel just before the street going to the grocery indicating that the mini-market is 100m away. There are two other minishops.

- Bus: The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

*Guallalí
Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with dinner and breakfast for 20000 CLP.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*Laguna El Barco :
Updated Mar 22

-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus Guallali - Ralco - Santa Barbara - Los Angeles 05:30

Updated January 2022:
Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

Updated February 2025:
Bus from Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa to Los Angeles: 
- at 5:30 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 14:00 on Sunday
Bus from Los Angeles to Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa: 
- at 14:00 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 19:15 on Sunday

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108664113.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603529.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603527.jpg|thumb|Araucarias at GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603530.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603538.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_1086641189.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2025-12-31T10:17:18Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT10 Option 1 (Termas Pucon Mahuida) and Option 2 (Cumbre Copahue): I added in 2025 additional routes east of the regular route. In good weather and with the vulcano being calm, these more remote routes are more adventurous but might require some exploration.

- GPT10 Option 3 (Ruta Fronterra): This completely new route was suggested and investigated by Manon and Robin and connects GPT10 Option 1 with GPT11 on a more eastern route by traversing the mountain ridges along the border to Argentina. This route bypasses the more populated valleys along the regular route where in rare cases some tension with the local Pehuenche population was reported. This route also bypasses Guallali. Thererfore, more provisions are required.
==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT10/2025-12-19 to 2025-12-21/SOBO/RR/Denis and Robert '''

Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.
From 17 km there is no water until Camping El Barco.
Camping is open for 5000 pesos per person, but no food or snack, no WiFi. We used electricity to recharge and cold showers.
In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place.

Attractiveness 3/5
Difficulty 2/5

*''' 2025.13.12 to 2025.14.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 1A + Opt 1 + Opt 1C + / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an injury we had to change our plans.

TLDR: Decent resupply shop in Butalelbún up the valley from Trapa Trapa. Option 1A very good trail connecting to Option 1 with possible campsites not far from leaving the road. Copahue - snow from around 2300m depending on the slope aspect plus fresh snow due to cold front. For us very cold day therefore we skirted the volcano somewhere below Option 1. Option 1C very nice, but unfortunately for us an agressive cow herd (approx. 60) charged at us on the meadow before the Paso de Pucón Mahuida. The ridge has a small slightly technical and exposed bit at the end, but with possibility to go around. The bushbash down pretty steep but not the worst, only bamboo (there must be a better trail somewhere). Not a person on the whole section.

After sections 8 & 9 and some R&R in Los Ángeles we got back on the same bus now going in opposite direction to get us to our start of section 10.

Getting there.
The bus leaves the Los Ángeles rural bus station at around 14:15 even though the schedule says it leaves at 14:00.
The most interesting part about this 6h journey was getting on the bus.
Luckily we were there almost an hour before and gathered enough info that we have to get in a queue if we hope to get any seats. There was already some line of people when we got there almost an hour early. When the bus arrived and the door opened it was sort of a “Takeshi Castle” where people charged in, scrambing and pushing past each other like mad. By our rough estimates it seemed that we are fine and will have seats even with all the people ahead of us however there was a scheme going on. People would get on the bus and put their bags across two or four seats to book it for someone else without themselves even sitting there. So by the time we got on, it seemed that even though bus was half empty all the seats were already “taken”.
Well, I didn’t agree with this scheme so we moved the bags and still took the empty seats.
We knew how long this bus ride is going to be and standing for that amount of time in a crowded bus was a hard no. There was a little scuffle later when some people returned but with some seat changing and rearrangements those that were in line on time all did get their seats.

So after 6h of sitting on bus (the bus did two longer stops one in Santa Barbara and one in Cauñicú) we arrived at the very final stop of the bus at the end of the road in Butalelbún where the bus turns around (-37.78489, -71.20359). It was super windy and the forecast said it will soon start to rain, it was also half past eight and getting dark. We already started talking with some people on the bus towards the end and they offered to stay at their place somewhere between Trapa Trapa and Butalelbún. We were tempted but still hoped we could hike in at least a little bit.
When we got off the bus there were some more people gathered we talked with one of them and asked if there is a sheltered place somewhere up the 4x4 road for a tent, but the man - Mario offered us to pitch a tent in his garden behind his tool shed. As the wind was picking up and it started to drizzle he actually offered for us to stay in the shed which we happily accepted.

Mario is a local villager that keeps horses and used to work as a guide in Ralco he lives in Butalelbún with his wife and small daughter and is very nice. He has a car and said that for a fee he could drive us somewhere if we needed e.g. up the 4x4 road to Termas De Chancho Ko.
I asked if I could share his WhatsApp nr. here in case other hikers would like to use this offer and he agreed.

Mario Manquepi +56 9 3329 9028

And very importantly there is a shop (kiosk) in Butalelbún that offers a somewhat decent resupply: pasta, canned goods, oil, hamburgesas, pollo vienesa, drinks, chocolate bars, candy etc. (that’s what we saw through the window and what the sign outside mentioned) the kiosk is located here: -37.78532, -71.20343 and there is a bell that you have to ring for someone to come and attend the shop.
Since we had just come from Los Ángeles we didn’t need anything from the shop.
But if you arrive late in Trapa Trapa then calling Mario for a ride to Butalelbún for some shopping is definitely an option. The bus passes through Trapa Trapa roughly 19:30 (really depends on the day of the week) so you could also just wait for the bus to get to Butalelbún.

A few km before Butalelbún there was a sign that said camping, we only saw it while on the bus and I can’t give you a precise location but Mario confirmed that there is a camping somewhere there. So it could be an alternative to staying in Trapa Trapa. Also the bus to Los Ángeles leaves from Butalelbún at 5:30 in the morning and you would most likely get a seat. Though the buses stay overnight in Malla Malla and in the morning go to Butalelbún from there.

Day 1 - Since the day before we didn’t hike at all I only count the days we actually spent walking.

Initially we planned to hike the option 2B but due to very cold and rainy weather we opted for a more sheltered option 1A which turned out to be an excellent choice. Mostly very good trail all the way to connect to option 1.
And since we started from Butalelbún we didn’t have to walk the boring first 9km on the road.
Another bonus for this option was that already about 1.5km from the Bridge {10-01A} [9.0/1137] there was a nice looking campsite with water by an abandoned puesto -37.78871, -71.22362. So even arriving with a late bus from Los Ángeles it should be possible to get there for an overnight.
There was one more option earlier right next to a stream, and well sheltered in the forest, but the ground was slightly slanted, puesto seemed nicer.
There was another sheltered campsite with water nearby further on -37.79904, -71.22790.
In general the 9km walk to connect to option 1 was really nice with plenty of water along the way and two passes. The Pass {10-01A} [14.1/1900] is actually marked in a slightly wrong location and the actual pass with a cairn is here -37.81328, -71.23357. Nice views of the Laguna Inaprachehue and the start of the plateau on the RR, Laguna Liay unfortunately hidden by the forest.
From the pass a short ways down past the puesto (horses and cows) and straight up to the next pass -37.82975, -71.22698 after which the trail traverses a steep slope. Due to the recent heavy rain storms in the area the trail had been damaged and eroded in some places but still walkable.
Right before joining the option 1 there is a ford -37.83599, -71.22817 but we managed to rock-hop across.
Once on the option 1 there was another abandoned puesto with a simple table and log-seats outside, nice place for lunch -37.83890, -71.22406
The trail then shortly after leaves the forest, goes past a few puestos, and dissipates in a cow meadow. From which it we continued CC past some waterfalls over some streams and climbed a very steep gully on loose rocks up towards more desolate and rocky lower reaches of Copahue.
Standing here -37.85475, -71.21840 where option 1B joins the option 1 it honestly didn’t look like option 1B would be possible at least not by the suggested trajectory, it looked steep and cliffy.

It was a pretty cold and windy day with a low cloud at around 2400m. So once we reached around here -37.85748, -71.21723 we deviated from the gpx and made our own way traversing below the option 1 only reaching a maximum elevation of about 2350m instead of 2430m like the gpx suggested. It also helped us to avoid more snow patches though we still crossed a few which were low angled and easy. We rejoined the gpx around here -37.87641, -71.20487 but still mostly followed what seemed to us like better trajectory.
There were a few small streams along the way and once lower down we picked up some sort of a trail again.
Termas Pucón Mahuida seemed ok there was one made pool with a lot of algea in it that would need some cleaning. Though very wet ground around it to get to it and not really any good campsite nearby. So even though we were cold the idea of undressing in the cold wind to get in the terma to perhaps get warm for a moment didn’t seem that appealing so we continued a little bit onwards.
We found a fantastic, sheltered campsite with water nearby, right on the junction where option 1 joins the option 1C -37.89779, -71.17220.
The temperatures were to further drop below 0C at night, so we braced for a chilly night.

Day 2 - Option 1C (Natalie’s and Tomáš’s new route on the boarder of Chile and Argentina)
The cold wind persisted and even though it was less overcast than the day before it was really cold already from the morning.
According to the map the morning walk promised to be an easy breezy along a 4x4 track towards Argentina and it was for about the first 1.5km until we reached the meadow on which there were a lot of cows and bulls.
The first group of around 20 with a big bull among them got alerted by us but they were a bit further from the 4x4 track and across the stream so even though they showed some anxiety about our presence we managed to pass them quickly without an escalation. A bit further we saw the main herd of about 80 cows and the 4x4 track went slightly closer to them. The cows noticed us already from a distance and started acting a bit weird, as we got closer ca. 100m which in my mind is still keeping a safe distance, something triggered them and they all started running, some of them away from us but the majority of the herd seemed to be running right at us, yikes.
Luckily there were bushes nearby so while staying calm we kept our stride and went behind the bushes to seek cover and to get out of their sight which worked. They were all mooing at us but they didn’t continue to chase us and we managed to keep on walking while staying out of their sight behind and around the bushes.
Cows are annoying and hard to read, I prefer being charged by a pack of dogs rather than a pack of cows, I find dogs are a lot easier to understand.
We had it happen to us once before on section 33H, that time we didn’t hide just stood our ground raised our poles and shouted at them and the cows stopped about 10m in front of us and then kept pushing us out of their meadow, also not the most pleasant encounter.
Further along the meadow there was another group of about 30 cows that also got anxious the moment they saw us so we just bushwhacked around them.
Once the road started to climb up we were clear of the cows. Probably the main reason they are so triggered at this time of the year is that they all have calves that they are very protective of. Probably all they have seen are humans on horses i.e. arieros, so when we walk by a strange looking creatures who don’t even command a horse they just freak out. Oh well, it’s part of the GPT, at least we have all these trails thanks to them.

The last water before gaining the ridge was here -37.90611, -71.12002. Getting to the flat ridge top is an easy CC with some trail lower on the ascent. And the ridge is mostly also an easy CC until you get to here: -37.95882, -71.12612 the ridge gets narrower and there is one easy step of downclimbing. After that the ridge remains narrow (not a knifes edge) and since we were going down on it we couldn’t see what’s below and from above it looked like a cliff drop. So from the place where we did the downclimbing step there was sort of a saddle from which we went below the ridge on the north side, traversed underneath the cliffy part of the ridge and then rejoined the ridge. Doing the ridge in this direction that was definitely the better way to do it. Looking back at the cliffs from below I could see that if doing the ridge in the opposite direction one could probably stay on the ridge and find a way through the cliffs with a bit of scrambling since you could see what is ahead where you are going. But coming down on the ridge it just seemed a bit more time consuming and since it was still very cold and windy and we had been walking for over 5h without breaks we looked for what is the fastest and easiest way not the most adventurous.
Then came the BB of the spur above Puesto {10-01G} [0.2/1484] in the beginning there was some trail that then disappeared. We pretty much tried to follow the gpx exactly but there was definitely no trail there. A steep and sometimes very steep BB through the bamboo thicket. It wasn’t too bad but after 6h of walking without a lunch (because it was too cold to stop) the BB felt very annoying. I definitely wouldn’t want to do it in the opposite direction, but people earlier claimed it was easy, so who knows, maybe we were doing it wrong.
I believe there must be a better way somewhere there, either on the same spur or in one of the gullies on either side of the spur, because we saw a bunch of cows on the meadow near the top of the spur. Unless they all got there from the valley north of the ridge on the option 1D trail, because we also saw a lot of cows down in that valley. It was finally time for a lunch by the stream -37.97455, -71.13867 first water since coming up the ridge.
Soon after that the trail reappeared and it was quite pleasant walking once again. Another potential, sheltered campsite on the way: -37.99719, -71.13963.
There was nobody at the Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] except cows but it looked like people would still be actively using it. We skirted around the fence of it and then the trail turned into a minor road that Natalie mentions.
If you are heading towards Guallalí then it’s probably the easiest to just keep following the minor road going west. Our plan was to join the GPT11 RR directly. The trail, if there was any, leaving the road and continuing south was not visible or obvious until you reach the edge of the trees 50m further south. Then some part CC, some part cow trails brought us to the GPT 11 RR.

(Continued in Section 11)

Overall I would say it was very nice and scenic way to do the section 10, we didn’t see a single person the whole way since leaving the Butalelbún. A good weather for this way is definitely preferred but we did it in suboptimal conditions and it was still nice (lucky it wasn’t raining). The main challenges for us were the cold and the cows, the rest was minor.
The plus side to the cold weather was that we didn’t see a single tabano which was a pleasant surprise, compared to sections 8 and 9 when they were very vicious and followed us even on the ridges.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 16th 2025 – Dec 19th 2025 / 3 days (0.5 days on Dec 16th and 19th each) / NOBO / RR, Variant D, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa, 15 days total on the trail.

Day 1: we left late from Romira’s after a large dinner with the idea to make it to Laguna Del Barco on Var D for the night. But our stomachs were just too full and we camped here

Day 2: continued on Variant D to Laguna del Barco and had a long siesta there. We were asked to pay 3000cp per person for entrance but when we said that we had heard in Guallalí that it would be 1000cp per person they didn’t argue with us. We arrived on an early Wednesday morning and the laguna didn’t seem touristy to us. Hardly any people around. No food vendors, no wifi. The bath houses have outlets – and the coldest shower I ever had in my life! Colder than the lake! We spent about 5 hours at the laguna to let the heat of the day pass before hiking up to the plateau. You have to pass through the property on the road to the laguna to get to the ascent. There was no one around when we walked through, signs indicate that they sell tortillas and mote con huesillo there. The hike on the plateau was beautiful with great views! We had decided to sleep on the plateau, we made it to the creek mentioned in the logs before (S 37° 54.077, W 71° 18.470) which carried no water. We didn’t need it. We camped here: S 37° 53.711 W 71° 18.333

Day 3: crossed the rest of the plateau and stopped to fill up our water bottles at the Puesto 10 [14.5/1297]. Shortly after we passed the first open puesto with lots of goats and cows. We got spooked by the dogs and decided not to go up to the man who came out to look at us from a distance. We regretted it a little bit since that really was the only puesto we passed from GPT 12 – 09 that was open. We wanted to get close to Trapa Trapa and camped here: S 37° 45.301, W 71° 17.029 which really wasn’t a great spot.

Day 4: hiked the last couple km to Trapa Trapa, passed a place that looks like a nice spot to camp closer to the village here: S 37°43.522, W 71° 16.403 (it is off the MR by the river after having passed already a couple of houses, I’m not sure if the land belongs to someone). We asked a woman working in her garden (S37° 42.741, W71° 16.062) where we could find food and she offered us lunch if we came back in an hour (rice, chicken, sausage, salad, bread, mote con huesillo for 15000cp per person and she also sold us pasta, rice, flour, harina tostada out of her own stock). The wifi is not open anymore at the health center, we asked for the password and the young man working there gave it to us. He didn’t want us to stay inside the house but let us charge our phones in one of the offices. Most importantly, he gave us the valuable information that there was a new “negocio”/store close to the cemetery. The shop and food/lodging indicated in the GPS files were closed and no people around. The minimarket is here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760. José is the owner and he and his family are very kind. He had opened his little shop in Sept. 2025. They had a pretty good selection and had all and more we needed for the trail except for maybe nuts/dried fruits/fresh veggies (rice, lentils, pasta, flavor packages, harina tostada, flour, oats, cornflakes, cookies, batteries, chocolate powder etc.). We talked a little while, he new the trails in and out of Trapa Trapa well and when he heard about our love for sopaipillas he offered to have some made for us by his wife. He loved hearing about the GPT and offered to help out as best he can. His number: +56 94220 6627. Well supplied we made our way NOBO on GPT 09.

Difficulty: 1/5

Attractiveness: 4/5

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-11 to 2025-04-13 / 2.5 days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, 10C and 10D (Laguna Liay) / Peggy

Day 1: I left late after having a long conversation with Romina at Guallali. I found a good spot before the camping at Laguna el Barco, on the heights above the lake, sheltered from the lake's humidity where I could make my evening and morning fire.

Day 2: Crossing the camping area was deserted at this time. I climbed up to the plateau where I met some motorcyclists (Saturday). At first, I grumbled to myself because of the noise, but they also have the right to enjoy the place in their own way! Come on, Peggy! And in truth, I just followed their tracks all day until I reached Laguna Liay, where I arrived at the right time to take a photo of them! The descent to the lake was a bit tricky. I tried 10C, but I couldn’t find the trail and it seemed very steep. I went back to 10D, which I had tried initially. I got half-lost in the bamboo, losing then finding the cow trail. Once down, I just got some water and then went back up. No way I was going to sleep by the lake in the cold and humidity (autumn, of course!). Once at the top, I took some time to find the right spot (humidity, wind, flat if possible, and maybe a view...). It was late, but I found it, collected some wood, made my fire, and enjoyed the view with the full moon. I slept well!

Day 3: Descent to Trapa Trapa. All the puestos were closed at this time. I didn’t meet anyone. I went straight to the lodging point km0.3 at Mireya’s place and stayed there for 2 nights knowing it would rain all day (and snow at higher altitudes). Be careful, in Trapa Trapa, there’s only network with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, there’s Wi-Fi at the health center (Posta de Salud, at the center – didn’t need to enter a password, connection accessible from the outside).

*"2025-02-17 to 18/ 2 days, SOBO, RR, Henry and Emilie:"

Day 1:
After waking up at a beautiful campsite just outside Trapa Trapa we went down to the store where we bought some more sugary snacks as well as half a kilo of fresh honey! (Possibly too much?) We continued South through Trapa and before leaving were also able to buy some fresh eggs. The trail is well troden through the valley and it is very beautiful though dusty. We came across two very easy fjords through the day and camped at (S 37.812384° O 71.274833°). Throughout the day there were a few aggressive puesto dogs, it seemed to me though that they were smart enough to back off when I raised my stick at them.

Day 2:
After waking up we made our way up to Laguna Liey. A steep but short climb. Getting down to the lake though was another matter. It's steep and for us confusing, we lost the trail on the way down and ended up doing some bush bashing. Made it eventually though, filled up water for the last time until Laguna del Barco (there is no water on the plateau). The way OUT of Laguna Liey was very rough for us. The tracks seemed to lead us straight up a cliff, eventually we made it out my following horse tracks around the cliff to the left. Rest of the day was moderatly easy but long, made it to El Barco after dark and were able to pay for a very slanted campsite (S 37.941382° O 71.284620°) (8000 each). Lots of people selling snacks and bread there and we managed to score some cold beers. The next day we hitch hiked from El Barco back to Los Angeles not completing the section to instead head down South.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-20 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Natalie&Tomas option 3 from GPT11 (border ridge), option 1&2 (Cupahue ascent), RR / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume : both Volcan Cupahue option (1&2) and Natalie&Thomas option (3) to connect GPT11 near argentinian border are really amazing and made to be combined if you can do without Guallali food supply. We highly recommand it if the weather is good. (Thanks a lot Natalie&Tomas !)
Coming from GPT11 we camped at the abandonned puesto at -37.978400, -71.141083 (very good camp spot : peasible, water pool, beautiful araucarias with pinones supply).
Day 1 : Abandonned puesto from GPT 11 > Camp at 2170 under Cupahue
We climbed the ridge dividing the valley in into two following Natalie&Tomas tracks to the north. With the trail slope before the ford, the ascending BB&TL ridge is truely easy. Then easy CC to join the main ridge at about -37.958580, -71.142415 and then following the ridge to the east until the summit/plateau (on the north side sometimes). Really good views on Cupahue and Collaqui following the ridge to the north. We joined and went down the Paso Pucon Mahuida non-used MR until to reach option 1. Passing by the hotsprings which seem ok, we went up until a camp at 2170 under Cupahue glacier at -37.87753, -71.19874. Volcanic ground was pretty easy to hike finally.
Day 2 : Camp at 2170 > Cupahue ascent > Trapa Trapa
Easy CC to the summit (beautiful crater and view) and way down to highest puesto, with also spectacular views to the north. From there, we followed a path with only 100 meters of easy BB (between option 1 and option 1A) and then Option 1 and RR to Trapa Trapa.
We conclued then 6,5 days of GPT 12, 11 and 10 and slept at welcoming Mapuche family home at "Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]".
Manon and Robin continued NOBO and I (Thomas) took the daily 6am bus to Los Angeles.

* '''2024-02-05 - 2024-02-06/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Elijah and Michael'''
No water on plateau after Laguna Liay as previous notes.

Camping at Laguna Barco 8000 CLP per person. Hot food such as sopapaillas, tortillas, completos, etc available. Minishop has snacks, cookies and drinks.

Shop at Guallil had sufficient options for a limited resupply - soups, ramen, pasta, biscuits, etc. Shop also provided accommodation for 30,000CLP including cena and desayuno.

*'''2024-01-31 to 2024-02-03 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Chris & Julia'''

Beautiful araucarias (and yummi piñones), pretty easy trail, Laguna El Barco less romantic and more overcrowded than expected but nice food! No snow, no fords worth mentioning. Also possible in less time.

Day 1: started after resupplying in Trapa Trapa (only cookies) in the afternoon. Camped at [S 37° 45' 18.08" W 071° 17' 01.75"] ~6km (first possible camping spot with water and flat ground). A lot of arieros passing.

Day 2: A lot of puestos. Last water at 14.5km. Trail to the pass is very beautiful, stunning araucarias. We also harvested some low hanging piñones. We reached two by hand (twisting, not pulling, worked for us). For another we used a rope stretched between two long branches. A bit tricky, but it worked. They are not ripe yet, but they taste good raw and even better roasted. We camped at Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] to avoid walking 19km without water. The Laguna there is really just a dirty pond, we spend hours (!) filtering water for two people with our befree, would not recommend sleeping there.

Day 3: Nice and easy trail. We followed a wrong trail at [S 37° 56' 01.04" W 071° 18' 15.57"] for ~2.5 km. At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 8000 CPL per person for camping (has bathrooms + showers). It was pretty crowded (guess because of weekend?). But there were 3 small stands with nice food (Tortillas, Sopaipillas, Completos, some meet stuff,
Softdrinks, & Mote con huesillo -> you should try, super nice chilean summerdrink).

Day 4: Following the trail there is a nice Camp at the Laguna after the official campsite if you prefere a more private spot (we would have camped there if we had known). Met Tobi + Mara from Germany (Viele Grüße :D!). Hitched directly to Ralco from the road. From Ralco there are buses to Los Angeles (at least every 2hours).

*''' 2024-01-29 to 2024-01-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 10E+RR / Dorota Szparaga '''
Day1: A lot of puestos on part till 14.5 km of RR. I had some really interesting talks about the Mapuche conflict and war between Russia and Ukraine. All people were friendly. Camp at Laguna Liay taking OH 10C - easy to find. After that, one woman said to me that near Laguna there is a path where crossed thieves with stolen cows from Guallalli. Very nice and quiet place.

Day2: I came back to the trail tracking back and found a shortcut. Took water from the lake for the whole day. I had a strange case near Laguna in the forest. A big bird tried to attack me. The plateau is amazing. Descending to Laguna Barco at 32.1/1296 there is a puesto and a gate. I decided not to go through camping at Laguna Barco, as there were a lot of people there. Took variant 10E on MR. At km 6.0 of this variant it is possible to buy soft drinks and ice creams. Night at Guallalli at minishop 11 (0.1/951) fideos, sweets, soft drinks. Bed, breakfast,dinner 30000 CLP. Very nice place. In the evening I had a really interesting talk about the Mapuche and animals. This family is not Mapuche. There is a good net here, Entel.

*''' 2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-26 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 10-C, 10-E / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Highlights: Stunning Araucaria forests, encounters with the Pehuenche people living there, Laguna de Liay, puma tracks and puma stories.

Challenges: No water on the plateau. The creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470' has dried out already by this time of the year.

I had lots of friendly encounters with the native Pehuenche and some not so friendly ones with their dogs. I’ve made it a habit to greet people in their language (mari mari), then approach them and introduce myself in Spanish with my name and a handshake. This led to a couple of interesting, informative and friendly conversations with lots of mutual learning.

Day 1

Started in the evening in Trapa Trapa and camped at [7.1/1181], where I met Elias, the owner of this land. He told me a lot about Pehuenche history, his hard but also beautiful and tranquil life in the mountains and about other mochileros who camped on his land.

Day 2

Started late because of hip pain. Higher up the valley two people independently from each other told me that they frequently see pumas (“leones”) on the edge of the plateau, one told me he has sheep “cuando no los comen los leones”, asked me if I had a revolver to defend myself, then reassured me pumas don’t attack people unless feeling cornered or protecting their offspring. One Pehuenche asked me how I know the way. I showed him my GPS device and showed him the track. He was a bit astonished but didn’t suspect any commercial exploitation as had happened previously according to the manual.

I shared Volkers feeling of awe when I saw the group of Araucarias right before the ascent to the plateau. It’s simply beautiful. Took a long food and coffee break there and ascended to Laguna Liay. On the way up, the path is partly heavily overgrown and at times difficult to find between other paths.

Up there I found myself in a fairytale forest in the evening light. I hashed my first glimpse of Laguna Liay shortly before sunset and it was mesmerizing. When looking for the way down to the laguna I lost the path and did some heavy CC BB but after a couple of minutes decided this can’t be the right way, double checked my location using the GPS and found the correct path. Still overgrown, but recognizable and easy to walk.

Camped close to the spot indicated by Nimrod & Tamar. Pure beauty and tranquility!

Day 3

Purified and packed enough water for the day and then continued my ascent to the and way over the plateau. Shortly before the intersection X {10} [17.7/1676] I discovered my first puma tracks.

Checked the little creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470': It has dried out, so the last chance to fill up water before the plateau is at Laguna de Liay (as described in the manual).

At a rock close by I took a siesta/food/coffee break. Lorenzo, a Pehuenche in his sixties, came up from the valley in his horse with three dogs, and had them drive his cattle downhill. He then turned around, rode towards me and offered to carry my backpack on his horse all the way down to Laguna del Barco. I was amazed by this generous offer, but still wanted to carry it myself, so I thanked him many times but declined. Later met him next to his house at X {10} [32.1/1296], where we took photos together and exchanged numbers.

Camped at Laguna de Barco and filled my hungry stomach with a churrasco, a huge serving of French fries, a fruit shake and a Coca Cola. The restaurant closes around 21 opens at 8 in the morning.

Day 4

Bought a sopaipilla (similar to the hungarian lángos) and two tortilla breads and took the variant 10-E to Guallalí. Bad decision because 10-E seems to be the only way to get from and to Laguna de Barco by car, so I got to eat a lot of dust. Good decision, because I got offered a ride a couple of times (politely declined) and one passing driver gifted me cookies and fruits (gratefully accepted). There’s also a house where they sell ice cream. I asked a couple of people with chicken on their yards, if they sell eggs. None had any because most hens don’t lay that time of the year due to the heat as I learned later at the Guallalí shop. In Guallalí, shortly before the police station, I got invited for a coffee, soft drink, tortilla bread with butter and a friendly and very interested conversation with the elder couple who lives there and their family from Los Ángeles. When I left, they also gifted me cookies.

Bought a can of tuna and a pack of tomato sauce at the shop in Guallalí and continued to GPT11.

'''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, OH10C+D (Laguna Liay) / Nimrod & Tamar'''

1st day:
After buying some supplies from a family we started hiking up the valley.
There were some unmarked puestos and tons of nice places for camp.
We asked permission from the family in a puesto to camp in their area and camped at ().

2nd day:
Last water point is near puesto [14.5/1297]. Next water point is near Laguna El Barco on RR or Laguna Liay.

There was a trail crossing at approx (-37.83314, -71.27040). We didn't notice it because the trail which is not on the files is much more clear, and walked on it for 200 meters until we felt something is wrong, and turned back. It might be easier trail up.

OH (10-C) until approx 1 km is partly easy CC because of the fire. From 1 km to 2.1 the trail has changed but it was easy to follow.

TL(10-D) does not exist and was hard BB so we skipped it. There might be another trail going down to the Laguna but we didn't look for it.

Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] is really poor in comparison to the lagoon beach. It was a dirty pond with a lot of cows around. So we hiked back and camped on the beach at (-37.83347, -71.28245).
Had afternoon swim and really nice view!

3rd day:
Easy trails until laguna El Barco. We harvested low hanging piñones we found at (-37.84210, -71.27454).
We recommend bringing a 15 meters cord. We had only 4 meters. The piñones were not ripe yet but were sweet, and could be eaten fresh without roasting.

At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 1000 clp per person only for entrance. There was a small stand which sold fresh tortillas and some junk food. We had a Churrasca, coke, and ice cream 😋.

We discovered that the bus to Los Angeles departs Gulalli at 5:30 so we put an effort to get there before darkness.
When it was completely dark we saw a bus parking in a yard, 1 km before Gulalli! Happy and excited we discovered it was the driver's house, which let us camp in his garden and take a hot shower in his home.

The first bus stop is at the police station and the ride takes approx 5 hours and cost us 3500 clp per person.

* ''' 2025-JAN-09 to 2025-JAN-10 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
Found an excellent campsite: S37° 46.967' W71° 16.896', right on the riverbank and free of cow manure. The river pocket was teeming with trout during the evening feed. A small fly or tenkara gear is recommended for fishing.

* ''' 2024-DEC-24 > 25 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 1/5
| Danger : aucun

Il restait un peu de neige alors j'ai trouvé de l'eau facilement.
Juste avant le Laguna El Barco il y a un camping 5000CLP/nuit pour emplacement, douche glacée, eau potable, électricité et poubelle. J'y suis allé car c'etait marqué qu'il etait interdit de camper près du lac...

*'''2024-DEC-22 to 2024-DEC-23 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A straightforward stage dominated by a relatively flat plateau with araucarias. A highlight of the journey was swimming in Laguna El Barco. We set off from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon along a pleasant gravel road, carrying food for two days. After the ford [9.5/1171], the trail continues through a beautiful and wide river valley, where several puestos are located. We camped at a nice spot, Camp [14.1/1269], under the araucarias. There, we each collected 3 liters of water, as there was none on the plateau, except for one location (-37.90128, -71.30783), where there was a small stream that was not marked in the track files. It’s possible that this stream could be dry during peak summer.

The ascent to the plateau was taken via a more well-trodden and gradual path (approximately 300 meters longer than in the track files, but more frequently used). The plateau itself is a paradise of araucarias with views of Volcán Callaqui. After descending to Laguna El Barco, we first paid 1000 CLP per person for entry at point Lake, Camp [32.9/1292], and then enjoyed a pleasant picnic by the lake while swimming. It’s a beautiful lake.

The route to Guallalí mostly follows a pleasant MR, although it can be somewhat monotonous at times. Upon arriving in Guallalí, we stocked up on supplies for two days for the GPT11 stage at a small shop, Shop {11} [0.1/951] (Mini Shop). They had pasta, rice, tuna, jurel, cookies, and soft drinks.

'''2024-Dec-16 to 2024-Dec-18 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Not much to say for this section it's pretty straight forward. We did it in a relaxed 2.5 days to avoid spending the night in Trapa Trapa but its easily doable in 2.

25.2km water - there was a small stream flowing well here. Could have saved us carrying so much water to camp up on the plateau.

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Continued on to 9

*'''24-12-11 - 24-12-12/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''
A section of beauty and peace
There are few technical things to say about this section, perhaps this: on the way from the valley up to the pass use your device more often than you might feel it is necessary. There are many trails and yours is often not the one you see in front of you, but the overgrown or blocked by a broken tree to your right or left.
The moment you arrive at the first Araucaria trees (though some on the way down to Trapa Trapa on gpt09) is just overwhelming. Camped at Laguna Liay, when I arrived there, I just didn’t want to leave this place.
Day 2: After the short first day, this one promised to become a long one. The plateau is just breathtaking, even after 08+09 the days before. At Laguna El Barco no food, no wifi, but a great opportunity to cool down in the lake. Some km later on RR the MR (good to walk, few rubble, shadow) passes a house, the sheep ran away from me, a lamb left behind, I draw the attention of a woman to the lamb - and was invited for lunch with that very nice „spanish“ (not Pehuenche) family.
Arrived at Guallali at 6.30 p.m., presented at the carabineros (very friendly!), the officer brought me to the „shop“, which is hidden in a garden house (don‘t expect any meaningful resupply).
Camped not far, to the right of RR11, in a small valley beyond some Eucalyptus and Araucaria trees (river not far, but deep down). Two women passed by, first sceptical, then offered to join them and get some bred (declined).

*'''3Dec2024 - 5dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR -varC - RR / 2 days / Clara'''

The ascent and descent of the plateau are awesome, full of araucaria trees and beautiful landscapes of the montains around. Sad that I've to hurry because of bad weather comming.
Fords : easy
Snow : big snow fields from about 1700m alt but easy to cross.
Water : still full on the plateau at this period.
Navigation : often many paths but easy to find the good one with the GPS. A bit more difficult to follow on the ascent after puesto at 14.5. And also around the pass cause the path often goes under the snow fields so needed more gps to stay in the good direction.
Var C : the lake is really nice. Made it with not so much bushbashing by staying closest as possible to the tracks, gps in hand at least at the begining.
Camp : around 8km (water) and camping at laguna el barco was open (5000 CLP/pers/night)

Arrive in Guallali before the rain :
Eat and sleep at the point mini-market with Romina and her family.
30kCLP for bed + lunch + dinner + breakfast.
Mini market : pasta, soups.

Entel phone coverage.

2024-Nov-26 to 2024-Nov-28 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - C, D / Karin

Camp: camp near laguna Liay (km0.1 var D) / Campamento Laguna El Barque (km32.9)

The MR/trail is easy to follow, except for the ascent after puesto km14.5, where the trail is no well visible. All along the valley from Trapa Trapa to the late puesto were a lot of small streams running over the road. Some were easy to cross without getting wet feet, others were a bit bigger, but never more than mid-calf.

From an altitude of 1760m was still snow. The snow on the pass and the plateau was managable, but slows down quite a bit and makes navigation more challenging. This on a distance of about 8km.

As there is still snow, there is a lot of water. Even on the plateau were a few streams, which will probably dry out during summer.

The camping at the Laguna El Barque was still closed. I asked two men how were working on the cabañas if I could pit up the tent anyways. This was not a problem and they did not charge me for this. At the camping were sanitary instalations, tables...

I arrived Guallalí at 12hrs. Because of the snow, I decided to go to Los Angeles. The carabineros station was empty, so I went to the minishop (gpt 11 km0.1) and asked when the buses leave. The owner told me that there is only one bus everyday at 5.30 am. But I could try to hichhike. While waiting, two locals came by and told me that in the next community (Chenqueco) are more cars going to/in direction of Ralco and that from there I would be more lucky.
About 5min later a car drove by and took me to this community. From there I hichhiked again.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-19 // 1,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel'''

I was a bit anxious on that section because of a big fire on the valley of the vokcan Copahue. Everything was under the steam all around, and with a big smell of fire. Few helicopters passed, and I was seriously questioning myself to continue or not.

Fortunately for me the track change of the valley to reach the beautiful Laguna El Barco.

It was late on the season so there were absolutely no one there. But In season that would be a great camp spot (event if it's probably popular and not so quiet as there's a lot of camping places).

Fill your water at the bottom of the valley because when you'll reach the plateau you'll have no water at all, until you go down to the valley.

Plateau is pretty nice, met a lot of people up there harvesting piñones. Easy horse track to follow. Ground is sandy and very steamy on the way down. Then you arrive on a valley with lot of water and lor of arrieros, great to chat with some of those that are leaving around there.

I crossed the Ford {10} [9.5/1171] then camo just after that. Had a great and quiet night there, happy to clean myself after a very dusty day, but I reckon it's gonna be like that for few sections further north aha !

Then easy track, gravel and road. No more ford to cross. Until the tiny trapa trapa.

Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).

* '''2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Started in Trapa Trapa around 15:30 and walked to right before camp 7.1. Hid in the forest to camp instead of using the nice grassy area as a lot of people on horses were using the trail.

Day 2 - Felt worried about the multiple puesto dogs and the aggressive person along the RR and option 1 so decided to try a new route to eventually rejoin GPT option 2, the trail to the summit of Copahue (pronounced Copaway). Went cross country going South from my 7.1 camp for a while until I started climbing East. Eventually joined a trail that seemed to get good use. There is probably no need to go cross country if you find the start of that trail… Left the trail at -37.78784, -71.25114 and went CC again on the plateau. Met a couple harvesting piñones and chatted with them. As I was leaving, their dog nipped my ankle… so much for avoiding dogs. Stopped by Laguna Negra (-37.81527, -71.21972) for lunch and water. Camped by a small lake at -37.83042, -71.20250. Beautiful views around that area. There were patches of old (last year’s) and new (last week’s) snow. In the evening, I went to investigate a direct route to Copahue up the peak at -37.83807, -71.20001, but felt that it was a little too exposed for me and my big backpack.

Day 3 - Took a slightly lower route on the West side of previously mentioned peak to Copahue from my campsite which worked great. Water at -37.83722, -71.20762 and also further depending on the snow quantity. Rejoined the marked OSM trail up to Copahue at around 2,750 meters of elevation, where I left most of my gear and went to the summit. The hike down from the volcano was very slow going, I followed the OSM route mostly but at times I was in between the GPT line and the OSM line. Went to check out the hot springs, which looked gross to me. Camped at -37.89625, -71.16599, on the road leading to Argentina.

Day 4 - I wanted to try the new option that Nathalie and Tomas have posted below for this section, so I followed the road to Argentina up to the valley that parallels the border and made my way to the ridge. Views from the ridge are spectacular and I enjoyed that part very much, following the border at first and ending up here: -37.95833, -71.11928. Difficulties came when I tried to come down the ridge following the route posted on FB. I backed out of the proposed “best route” as it was too exposed and scrambling-like for my liking. I ended up going down the steep talus slope for a while, traversing as Natalie described and ended up doing a fair amount of unpleasant bush-bashing to reach the trail at the bottom of the valley. There are probably better routes than the one I took though, I didn’t have the opportunity to study the satellite imagery very well before going :-). Looking back I should have walked in the creek bed earlier rather than fight with all the bamboo. Ended up with a fair amount of scratches and ripped pants. Camped shortly after I found the trail in the valley.

Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.

* '''2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi'''

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for our tips on pinones

Nothing to add that's not described below, except we found the native Pehuenche people friendly. We think it helps to great them in their language (Mari mari - hello; Chaltu may - thank you). This you can find with a bit of digging online. Would love to have interacted with them more - they seem friendlier up the valley at the puestos (not in trappa trappa).

No luck finding asado in this time of year due to touristic things shutting down (including campsite at Lago El Barco, completely deserted).

There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)

* '''2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, all fordings very easy, plenty of (unmarked) water except from Puesto RR 14.5km (one stream a few hundred meters afterwards last water) to shortly before Laguna El Barco. Tabanos: 2

The valley south of Trapa-Trapa is first narrow but the open ups to a wide valley with a lot of puestos, mostly inhabited, which means a lot of dogs and cows, horses, sheep around. All marked campsites are completely full of animal feces, every single decimeter is covered. I camped around -37.78551,-71.27975 on sand next to the river, sandy and stony places are the only one without extrem amounts of shit. Stayed there another day just sleeping in the tent bc of all day raining. Next camp was a nice weather camp with great views but no water at -37.89069,-71.30189. Flat spot, no shit, very quiet, some boulders and bushes.

RR out of the valley up to thea area of Laguna Liay was a bit tricky. Seems part of RR are not in use anymore and overgrown ( -37.83346,-71.2705 ). I just followed the horse tracks which later went back to RR. it seems there are different paths going up.

Lake, camp 32.9km: camping 8000, picknick 5000. But nobody at the gate, so I just walk in, swimm a little and try to open my first Araucaria seed cone I harvested an hour before. Shortly before I leave someone asks if I paid the entry. Sorry bro, not going to pay 5000 for sitting 30min on a bench, so I just don't understand spanish at all until he gives up.
Next to Laguna El Barco a wildfire puts a lot of smoke on the water, but no fire in the sky. 2 helicopters pour water on it the whole day. RR southeast of the Laguna was not affected, the fire (actually only lots of smoke) was on the other side of the valley about 1km away.

Rio Lomin had very brown-yellow water, but there are a few small clean unmarked streams further south RR.

Guallali tiny shop, no sign, just go over the little wooden bridge after the police and shortly before the school. Dog alarms child, child alarms mother. Mother opens shop. Mostly cola and chips, ice cream, some cookies, 3 packs of noodles and (worst quality) toilet paper.

Some really nice views at the waterless part, first massive amount of Araucaria trees, Laguna El Barco is kinda nice too, finally a lake with trees around! Lots of boring road walking at the beginnig and more so at the end of section with basically no traffic.

* '''2024 Feb 28 to Feb 29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Day 0: Trapa Trapa- Camp -37.76398, -71.28171

On our last day of the previous section, we hiked the first 7 km to this camp. Great bivouac spot not to be missed, next to a puesto with grass, water, horses and welcoming vegetation.

Day 1: Camp -37.76398, -71.28171 - Laguna El Barco:

Truly magnificent scenery and lots of puestos. The climb is pleasant and in the shade. As soon as you cross a river, it's easy (maximum knee-deep).
From laguna Liay to laguna el barco, NO WATER. We initially wanted to camp between the two, but were forced to push on to laguna el barco to get water. The scenery is really beautiful and easy to walk on the plateau, and the aracaunia trees give it a unique atmosphere.
Pay camping at el barco (8,000 pesos per person) with beach and friendly staff.)

Day 2: Laguna el barco - Guallali

A short day's descent. We stop at the bus stop indicated in the waypoints at 3pm. Only one bus a day from Guallali to Los Angeles at 5:30 am.
We were lucky and hitchhiked to Ralco.

* '''2024 Feb 13 to Feb 18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D, some off GPT track / Michael and Kasia '''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR: beautiful section with some very impressive araucaria forests. Technically easy but navigationally a little challenging due to so many trails branching everywhere. Laguna Liay is definitely worth visiting.

Day 1 - Feb 13

After finishing our resupply in Trappa Trappa, we started on RR. The road was fully exposed until we got up a ways into the forest. After that I had to watch the GPS fairly closely. As has been noted previously, the horse trails fork off in different directions, sometimes rejoining and sometimes not. The trail was pretty dusty, but the forest was beautiful. There was very little water access for quite awhile. We arrived at the camp point at km 7.1 with the Mapuche family. No one was at the house so we started looking around. I found Elías in another part of the property. He was very kind and said we were welcome to camp. He showed us a nice spot near a creek set away from the road. We had initially thought to camp more in the open area but he said that the road gets a lot of traffic in the night and the are some “mala gente” that pass through, so the spot he showed us was safer.

Day 2 - Feb 14

We started hiking early and the morning light on the landscape was absolutely beautiful. We stopped after the first ford, mid calf with little current, to have coffee and enjoy the area. We continued on passing a lot of puestos. Many seemed abandoned or falling apart, though there were people at several of them. We waved and they waved back, but they were fairly far from the road so we didn't go over to talk. We met our first other GPT hikers, Christof and Alex (hi guys! We hope you got the roasted chicken in Antuco!) We crossed the second ford, just under the knee, and had lunch and a nap and then started up to the pass. The path was mostly in forest, and though steep, we didn't find it difficult. We started on Var C to Laguna Liay sticking more to the OSM track than the GPT track. We got down to the lake and wanted to go all the way around to the north side, but part way up the trail started heading up to the plateau. We returned to the bottom and tried to walk in the water counterclockwise around the lake, but after only about 50 m there was a section where I was sinking deep into mud. We walked back to the south side beach and then walked the beach clockwise to get to the north side. There were a few fallen trees to climb over, but otherwise we had no issues going that way. On the north side there was a fairly sizable sand beach with a fire ring. We camped there.

Day 3 - Feb 15

We took a rest day at the lake. The atmosphere at the lake was so peaceful and the scenery was so beautiful. Not one person passed through that day, and it felt really amazing to have such a quiet, serene and beautiful place all to ourselves. It got hot during the afternoon so we retreated up into the woods a bit to get some shade. In the late afternoon I went to scout Var D for the next day. There isn't a full trail there really, but from the beach looking uphill I could see a brown stripe going up. It was a short BB to get to it and then a steep up. The trail forked after maybe 50 m. I first went left, but after a while it was all dead ends and started to lose elevation. I went back and tried the right fork with a combination BB/CC and was finally able to connect to a path. From there it was easy to get up to the plateau and then to the other marked campsite which was near a pond that had mostly evaporated for the season.

Day 4 - Feb 16

We started early to get over the pass before it got hot. We took the scouted approximate Var D up and then connected in with RR. The pass was easy and on the far side there was an incredible monkey puzzle forest. As noted there was no water. We took the OSM track up just before the descent to Laguna El Barco for the lookout. The trail down to Laguna El Barco was somewhat steep but easy to follow. At the bottom it passes through a puesto on the way to the road. The guy there also rents camping sites. The El Barco campground is somewhat chaotically managed. We arrived on a Friday and it was packed with vacationing Chilenos. Posted price was 5.000 pp for the picnic area day use and 8.000 pp for camping. They offered 6.000 pp without a table, which we took. It turns out that that is for essentially an unused parking spot next to the road. We would have left, but it was too late to go anywhere else. A very nice couple happened by as we were setting up and said they were about to leave and we could have their spot which had a table and was away from the road. We thanked them and moved up. The shop seems not to be operating this year. The small building it was in was empty and the door was just hanging open. There were two groups selling food, one at the entrance selling tortillla, a fairly large and dense bread cooked directly in the ash in the fire for 2.000 each, some smaller pan amasado, sopaipillas 500 each, a fried dessert bread dusted in powdered sugar 3 for 1.000, and churasco for 4.000. They also had sodas, 1.200 for a 591 ml bottle. The other group was at a camp just past the lower bathrooms, and two of them walked around the campground periodically as well. They had tortilla 2.000 each, sopaipillas 2 for 1.000, and some kind of tea. The second place had our favorite tortillas, we ate several of them. The churrasco was a disappointment. I was thinking Bolivian churasco which is just grilled meat. These were sandwiches with a couple thin strips of meat simmered in liquid in a frying pan and then put on huge breads with a slice of tomato, a bit of lettuce and some mayo. They were okay, but not what I had expected.

Day 5 - Feb 17

We left late and hiked RR. On the other side is another much smaller and more laid back campground. It is run by the couple that lives there. Price was 6.000 pp with a table. They had a toilet and sinks, no shower. They sold tortillas on request, 2.000 each, but the woman, Clementina, makes them when she's making their food, so it can be awhile. We bought 5 of them and they were larger than the ones in the campground. Wrapped in paper towels and kept in plastic bags, these lasted us almost 5 days.

Day 6 - Feb 18

We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-21.9]

Both Fords are easy below knee + the RR crosses a few more streams during the first 14 km. There is no water on RR after the Ford at km 14.1 until km 32.1.

Day 2: RR [21.9-32.1] + OH10-E + RR [45.1-47.5]

At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was a nice and easy section. For us, the Laguna Liay would deserve to be on RR. It was one of the most beautiful and peaceful campspot we had this season.

We also camped on the official campground at Laguna El barco. It was still 8000 CLP pp and the place was crowded with all the Chileans on holiday. The beach is nice but the campground is really dusty (as most of the section). There were also two families selling food (tortillas, sopaipillas and some other things).

By the way, there is no more snow on the plateau so take plenty of water to cover the distance between Lago El Barco and Laguna Liay.

* '''2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes'''

From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.

* '''2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian'''

After have a nice breakfast with the lovely family, i keep going south.

Km0 - km13.6 : easy walking, easy to follow.

Km13.6 : junction of RR and {10-01}.

Ford[14.1/1269] : if you are not decided go to {10-C} or visit Laguna Liay (lake), it is the last water until km33 Laguna El Barco ( or a stream just before this lake ).

Km14.47 : climb up start, the entrance is beside the corner of wooden fence.

Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.

Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.

{10-C} km0.33 : (-37.83379, -71.27817) a sandy slope steep going down, the trail to Laguna Liay (lake) is here, you can see some trail trace on the sandy slope. A little overgrown and sometimes fallen tree block your way, but mostly you can step over them. About 10min you will arrive a sandy beach (-37.83326, -71.28031) at km0.5. Not a camping spot, but here have some big trees fell in the lake, easy walking on them go to the lake for collecting better water. Good view point of Laguna Liay with Volcán Callaqui, i also saw some beautiful ducks with red brown body and blue beak swimming here!

After collecting water and a long nap, i decided back to RR, i took another trail on the sandy slope that closer to lake side (not shown on map), it is easy to follow and easy walk, lastly join RR at km16.5.

RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!

Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!

Km26.6 : left side, Volcán Copahue!

Km31.4 : pass, from dirt road to trail going down, but before going down, there is a side trail to south for climbing up a small hill, just distance 500m and climb up 70m, go for it! Excellent view point of Laguna El Barco, Volcán Callaqui, Volcán Copahue and Volcán Lonquimay( Sierra Nevada behind it?) !

X[31.2/1469] : a campground with picnic table ( i think it is a paid area because a sign at front gate but didn't see anyone when i passed there) and a stream flowing nice with clear water just before it. If you don't decide go to Laguna El Barco for collecting water, it is the only water until Guallalí.

Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.

Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).

{10-E} km10.0 rejoin RR.

RR km46.05 : look like a very old shop, I saw a sign for candy and cigarettes, but the house is broken and no people there any more.

Shop {11} [0.1/951] : No sign for shop, it is a beautiful looking wooden house, cross a tiny wooden bridge to their front gate. A little better stock than i think before, more than the shop at Trapa Trapa and almost the same as Los Álamos. Pastas, rice, some canned food, biscuits, drinks and chips. Not picky and i resupply for 3 days food here. I asked for accommodation, and the female owner said can stay in their house, 30000 CLP for a single room(4 beds) with light, quilt and electric charger, shower(cold) with shampoo, dinner and breakfast, maybe can use their washer for laundry, but finally i use my hand for washing them, because my clothes are too dusty and don't want to pollut their machine. It has a feeling look like guesthouse at some tourist routes in Nepal, but of course the one in Nepal are much commercial.

Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!

I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.

(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.

* '''2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella'''

TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people

Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.

Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…

Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!

Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.

* '''2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie'''

Note: Our path was of course convoluted. We walked the optional route 10-01 to Volcán Copahue last year. It is splendid and recommended for our option, but this time we opted for the RR, as we have not walked it previously. We came back to the area to find a new connection that would avoid almost 25 km of unpleasant roadwalking after Laguna El Barco. We suceeded, see below.

We followed the regular route to Laguna el Barco. The route and the Laguna are indeed very pleasant. We paid 1000 each to be able to pass through (?) and use the camping tables for lunch. The store was closed even on Saturday (Dec 23). About 300m from the lagoon, there is a sign about Entel coverage and 4g indeed works decently there. We then took the minor road to the hot spring under Volcan Copahue (elevation 1812, name Pucon Mahuida).

No cars seem to be using the road, especially the second part is quite eroded and after the hot spring it is bordering on impassable for cars. The hot spring is still nice. We then followed the road to an incredibly beautiful valley under Copahue. Few hundred metres before reaching Argentina, we left the road and shortly found a path that traversed into the valley in the south next to the border. The path petered out once we got above the bushes. It was really easy to reach the ridge and folow it (and the Argentinian border) to 37.9575000S, 71.1211474W. With snow all around on the slopes and with condors circling us, it was stunning (the ridge is mostly snow free). Made camp under the summit next to a 10m-high wall of ice for wind protection. There was no path but walking was easy, the ridge is rather flat and wide.

There are three options we explored from there on. The recommended one is the last one we explored, but here they follow in chronological order. Continuing on the ridge towards Cerro Dedo would require climbing or exposed traversing (if one dropped to Argentina, one could probably find a path to reconnect to GPT after Cerro Dedos if there ius no police in the area). Instead we went down side of the mountain roughly to here: 37.9650794S, 71.1206588W (it was steep but full of stones, so not slippery and we did not think it was dangerous). Then we started traversing (it did not feel exposed, but was a bit strenuous) until about here: 37.9792148S, 71.1245764W, from where we started going down a narrow ridge that was flanked by creeks on both sides. Again it was not dangerous and first half was good CC (like all the previous traverse), the second half was part cow trail (with cow poop), part bush bashing, but surprisingly easy and painless with long sleeeves.

At the bottom of the valley, we came out on a clearly visible trail. We went up it further into the valley, where there was a deserted puesto on a meadow under enormous araucaria trees with a magnificent views on snowy slopes full of huge waterfalls. We made camp.

In the evening, Tomáš then went to explore a scary looking ridge to reach this peak:
37.9767704S, 71.1623784W. It turned out not to be scary. The sidehill up the ridge is mostly without trees or bushes, so it is steep but good CC. Once up the ridge, one can go around the pinacles from the southern side (left facing up), occasionally using the tree branches as support - there is a little of easy climbing, but with no exposure. Then the ridge is steep and somewhat narrow but one can mostly go up only using poles and not hands. Altogether SAC 5. It was fun and pretty, but caution needs to apply. From the top, one could easily traverse north towards here: 37.9611427S, 71.1539942W.

The next day, we went up a ridge dividing the valley we slept in into two (this one: 37.9714484S, 71.1414231W). There is a trail up that branches off the main valley trail about 300 m downstream of the abandoned puesto. One goes up a slope for about 400m and then down to a ford and then up. There are a variety of cow trails with bamboo cut some time ago. It is partly bush bashing, but very easy and just a few hundred metres. Once up the steep slope, the trail is much clearer. Above the tree line, it is easy CC. Once you get up the main ridge, you can either go right to the peak we slept the days before (a walk up - no need to use hands, the rocky features can be easily skirted, SAC 3-4) or left to the coordinates that end the previous paragraph. From there one could go down to the valley in the north and either CC and ford (probably possible, but unceartain) or follow the road/path that is mapped in OSM (look it online, it was only added in late November) toward El Barco. Navigating this SOBO is much easier, we posted the GPX route of the most tricky part and a rough overall route painted over satellite image in the Facebook group and hopefully it will be included in the GPT next year [November 2024: it is in our suggstions together with a lot of exploratory options].

Going down the valley to reconnect to the GPT leading from Gaulali is easy 5 km on a clear trail. Once you hit car tracks (almost in the main valley) that will soon turn left, you can probably follow one of the trails going straight and save yourself maybe a 0.5 km detour to a puesto here: 38.0095590S, 71.1391237W. From the puesto, there is a very ugly road that was enlarged this year all the way to Guallali. Going NOBO, you reconnect to the trail going to Cerro Dedos very soon and thus almost entirely eclipsing the roadwalk. Plus our proposed new route is really pretty.

From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in-front-of-the-turnoff-to-the-carabinieros-station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, but ask at the station.

* '''2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans'''

Took the bus from Ralco to Trapa Trapa, start of GPT10. 2 busses a day, 4.30 and 16.30. I was at the busstop at 4.10, but the driver probably didn't expect anyone and took a shortcut and therefore didn't pass the busstop. So if you want to take that one, walk 100m further to the crossing of the main road.
16.30 no problems, plenty of people taking that bus. Total of 2.5hrs to get to Trapa Trapa.

Missing the bus gave me time to explore Ralco a bit, plenty of shops, turist information center and a Museum about the Pewenche. Small, but worth a visit (1000 CLP).

Didn't explore anything in Trapa Trapa since I wanted to cover some gound before darkness. Did see some signs of shops tho.
Easy trail, no issues here. Ended up to camp at: Camp 10 [7.1/1181]. Got woken up by some cows and horses in the morning.

Took the route (C) along the lake, also with the intention to get some extra water for the plateau. Although there was plenty at the plateau (for now), at least 5 good streams and more small ones. All because of the melting snow, so I don't know for how long that will be in the upcoming weeks.

Walk was easy, pass is easy, some snow/ice walking but all stable. You might be taking a little caution when it starts melting more but walk around the snow is also an easy option.

I camped at the plateau, almost at the end just before you walk into the greenzone again. On the right side is a flat spot next to some trees and bushes.

Next day via Laguna el Barco, some people camping there, no one at the entry so didn't had to pay anything. Easy walk again. Took option (F) and first house on the left after crossing the bridge had a sign that they sold ice cream. Stopped there, friendly people and as they told me they will sell more stuff in the future. It also looked like that, they were constructing a store, shelves, counter everything. Just no inventory yet. Unclear when they will, at least to me with my limited Spanish.

Reached Guillali easily, had a chat with the local Cabaniero. He gave me a Entell Sim-card so I could have cell service. Stayed at Romina. Bed, dinner, breakfast 30.000 CLP.

Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.

* '''2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : a little bit of snow around the pass, super easy to navigate

- Camping spot : easy to find
- River crossing : easy

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : there is a small 'negocio' in Trapa Trapa, and you can have breakfast with a really nice family at the 'lodging and food'

- Option roads : Variant C - really nice lake, just a little bit of bushbashing to rejoin the RR

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-07 to 2023-Mar-09 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

After a night in Guallali, we continued on GPT10. This section is short and awesome, definitely worth hiking!

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.

On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way.
The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered.

* '''On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked.'''
The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections).

Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).

* '''2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš'''

The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to Trapa Trapa from Los Angeles, it was long... 5+hours and it leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable, we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more.
Arrived in Trapa Trapa at ~7:30pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping (there are nicer spots just a bit further).

Day2
Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously, but there is also a nice water source earlier here: -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.

Day 3
We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although we found the path the day before, we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucarias, the trail is clear and non-bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434.
Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son: genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall-fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to this pass, although beautiful, took a long time!
At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far.
The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs.
We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.

Day4
We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road to Guallalí.

The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river (glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?), it feels like the era of the dinosaurs. The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.
Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR. From there we walked about 3 km to Guallalí.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi'''

Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01.
Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain.
We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.
The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.

* '''2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will '''

Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake.

I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route.

Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail.

Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods.

The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful.

Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.

* '''2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza. On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher '''

We started from Trapa Trapa around 11 am after finishing section 9. The first part nearly until Laguna Liay is an easy walk on dirt roads/nice paths with several water sources.
We met some pehuenche people who greated us friendly, only one man mumbled if we had a 'permiso' to pass there (we couldn't understand him very well). But then his friends told him to let us pass, he went away and we continued walking.
On the last km to Laguna Liay there is a lot of bush bashing. But it's definitely worth it, a very nice camping spot up there.
The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco.
At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica '''

Route: Trapa Trapa - Laguna Liay - Laguna El Barco - Guallalí

Two days from Trapa Trapa to Guallalí. Easy trail up the valley towards Laguna Liay. Didn't see anyone, most of the puestos appeared unoccupied. Lovely araucaria grove at the base of the big climb to Laguna Liay. The trail during the climb was overgrown/hard to distinguish in some places, and had a few areas of blowdowns too, which made the going slow during that bit.

I took Option C around Laguna Liay, which I found to be a frustrating maze of cow paths. One minute it's nice and clear and then it disappears, leaving me to bushwhack my way along until I stumble upon it again. The lake is beautiful though, and it's the last water before Laguna El Barco, so I filled up a couple litres. Met my first other GPT hikers in 3 weeks there too, they were going NOBO. Really beautiful up on the plateau of araucarias.
There was no one at Laguna El Barco when I got there around lunchtime, no one selling food either. Spent over an hour there enjoying the shady picnic tables and the beach.

Easy trails/4×4 tracks the rest of the way to Guallalí. The two NOBO GPT hikers I met yesterday got charged 10,000 pesos by some local Mapuche folks to pass through this area, but I (again) didn't meet anyone.
The shop in Guallalí is very limited. When I saw the selection, I decided to take the bus the next morning to Ralco, it leaves at 5:30 am. The shop owner was also not offering accommodation, but pointed me to the lovely araucaria grove across the street to camp. There is Entel cell service here :)

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-27 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] : the place is nice, as mentioned there are lot of bins, the camping is also very nice and the showers still very cold. They charged me $5.000 for the night. It was written "with no (something I didn't manage to read)" on the bill so if they charge you $8.000 you can try to specify you don't have car, or I don't know... They removed the panel for the grocery just after I asked for it so it's now fixed, there is no grocery. The family selling cooked food wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

- Close to GPT10-C Start there is a point of view on the whole valley, it's beautiful and you can see all the puestos

- Just after it there are many paths to go down, I haven't taken the one from the GPS but it's very easy to reach it then

- Around Puesto {10} [14.5/1297] an arriero told me there are 2 paths going down the valley, one on each side of the river, I've followed the GPT to try to reach Trapa Trapa before the night so I didn't go further about them but if someone try

- Around fords there are often a "bridge" made of one massive plank, the same arriero told me about some so they probably check each year they are usable. You just have to look for it, but it can not be the case at some points

- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met

* '''2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo '''

In one day from Trapa Trapa to Laguna Liay, camping at the north side. There are many cow trails leading down to the laguna. The one we took seemed suitable for hikers too. Going back up the next day we got lost in the cow maze though, and only by searching for our own footprints from the previous day did we get back on the RR. It may be worth having a look at our GPS tracking data to figure out our initial path.

The next day continued to Guallalí. Beatiful plateau! Got to harvest our first piñones as well! However, we hurt the araucaria tree by breaking off a small but not insignificant branch when trying to get the green "pinecone" to break off, using the "strong rope" method described in the hiker's manual. Only later we learned you should go for the brownish, "café"-colored cones. Just hit these with your walking stick and the piñones will fall right off. You then collect them from the ground. The threatened araucaria will be much happier not being hurt :)

When in need of water at the plateau, there should be a path to Laguna Totora from S 37° 54.510', W 071° 18.580', according to an arriero who passed by. Maybe a future optional route?

The optional routes 10-E and 10-G have become MR instead of TL.

The lodging at the shop in Guallalí was not avaible, but the shop owner pointed us to an araucaria grove closeby (you can enter via a wooden gate next to the escuela). We camped there: S 38° 02.647', W 071° 16.441'. There were some villagers passing by, so it seems to be public land. There's a small stream to the east with quite clear water. Maybe it's possible to camp more upstream to the north, where there are bridges and where the stream has passed fewer houses.

Continued to GPT11 immediately after.

* '''2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

Between Guallalí and Laguna el Barco is mainly gravel road, but sometimes there are small, discrete paths that connect them, so keep an eye on the GPS.
The camping at Laguna el barco is now 8000 per person. There are toilets, very cold showers and many garbage bins. There is also a family selling tortillas (bread baked in the ash) and sopaipillas, as well as some other people who come down in the evening and morning selling tortillas. There's a shop advertising ice cream, bread, sodas and other stuff, but it's closed. The people at the camping told us that it would open at 13, and then at 20, and then next day. A lady who had stayed there for a week said it had been like that the whole week, so I wouldn't count on it being open. As noted, you can ask the campground people to charge your phone. All in all, it was a nice campsite.
Shortly after, the big climb starts. You have to pass through a fence and by some houses - again keep an eye on the GPS. We were charged 1000 per person, probably wouldn't happen for people going southbound.
As warned, there was no water on the plateau until Laguna Liay. At the camp-waypoint, there is a very small lake, it doesn't look like the best drinking water, and the path directly to the lake seems very overgrown. Instead, we continued around the lake and found a decent campsite on the far side. The path around the lake is faint at best, and we ended up doing some serious scrambling down a cliff, however when we got down we found a path coming more from the right, so maybe there's a better way. The walk around is pretty, though.
After the descent, the rest is easy walking past many puestos.
In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. Very nice family, they might be away in their puesto sometimes though. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. They were building a cabaña when we were there. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. Apart from that there are two other minishops, one in each direction, which we didn't check out.

The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony '''

After finishing GPT9 I went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food.
Like already mentioned by others, remember to bring a lot of water for the following section. The plateau you climb up on after El Barco lake was very dry. Next water source with good clean water was at Laguna Liay. I was getting desperate for water, so I took variant D directly down to the laguna. The trail was very overgrown and requires some bush bashing. Frustrating amounts of mosquitos and horseflies in this part of the section, might be worth bringing some mosquito spray!

Next section towards trapa trapa was nice and easy with perfect weather and plenty of water.
Found two mini-shops in Trapa Trapa with only limited supplies. A bus to Ralco, leaves weekdays 6:00 in the morning. Therefore I spent the night in a room that a local Mapuche family were renting out. Was served a very big plate of grilled sheep meat and really enjoyed talking with the family. Later in the evening the father returned home very drunk. He was nice and talkative but I was getting at bit of a bad vibe from him, so thanked them for the food and went off to bed. Later at night I was awaken by someone vigorously trying to open the door which I thankfully locked. Rest of the family woke up and I heard a mans voice shouting something about “extranjero” and soon after the abuela kicked this guy out of the house.

Instantly thought I was gonna get robbed, but might just have been a drunk family member or the father who had forgot I was sleeping in their room. Hard to say… Apart from this I really enjoyed interacting with the locals in this region and I’ve had a lot of nice and memorable experiences.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb-02 / Incident on GPT10 at Puesto-55 Location S 37* 49‘ 31.79‘‘ / W 71* 16‘ 23.38‘‘ / Published on behalf of Trevor Mattson'''

"Sad to report that i had a very negative experience about 15km into section 10 on sunday (2/2). I was offered food and a place to camp by a very nice pehuenche lady (miriam, goes by "mila", the puesto after puesto 55 marked as "puesto, food" at the beginning of the OH route right after it splits from RR) only to have her husband come home later an try to rob me. She was extremely friendly. Although he was noticeably intoxicated, he was also nice at first as we joked, drank maté an collected firewood together. After a couple hours, as the sun was almost completely gone (~10pm), he went inside his puesto, grabbed a knife, an approached me from behind as i sat around the fire with his wife. He marched me to my tent with the knife pressed againt my neck. I allowed him to search it (he kept saying "plata, plata, plata" an his Spanish wasn't very good) which gave me the opportunity to pick up a rock an intimidate him a bit. I had a lot of money an wasn't just gonna let him take it and all of my stuff up in the mountains at night. His wife then came an tried to get between us / protect me (she was pleading him to stop). He was shoving her around, but this gave me just enough time to rip my tent out of the ground, which had all my stuff in it, an quickly drag it to the nearest puesto (~100metres). He followed me on horseback after a minute or two an the family there armed themselves with sticks an told him to f**k off.

I hiked for a few hours through the night an met an incredible family at around 1700metres on the optional route (papa named exequel). They told me that he (bernardino from "puesto, food") has robbed a "chino" (means anyone that looks even remotely asian in my latin American experiences) in the past an that "se vuelve loco" when he drinks vine. I bought more cheese from bernardino an his wife than i wanted/needed as a nice gesture an we seemed to get along, so this was reassuring that he was just crazy an it was nothing that i did to provoke him. In other words, i behave according to the manual provided by Jan an it is not at fault.
All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well.
Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"

* '''2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single.
2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.

* '''2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section was well marked/distinguished relative to all the other sections on thus far. There were many Puestos along the way as well. This was also the first section where the araucaria tree is very prevalent across the landscape. This section was my final section on the GPT and the araucaria trees and the lush green landscape provided good contrast to the semi-desert climate south of Santiago de Chile.

Difficulties:
There was a small 12km ish section without water close to the pass.

Highlights:
Change in landscape. Great views of the many volcanoes in the area.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.

* '''2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

- Nice hike with no major difficulties. The plateau with the araucarias after the pass is amazing!!!

- No river when you leave the valley toward the pass and then down to the other valley BUT, as I wanted to sleep on this plateau (25 km after the start of the section) I found a small river 300 meters on the right from the regular track and camped at this place : S37,895511° O71,308919° Wonderful sunset!!!

- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!

* '''2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 3.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. The 0.5 day we had left from arriving in Guallali we spend buying food and hitch hiking to the campground at Laguna el Barco. We did so because we expected rain soon and wanted to camp it out. Also we were not too keen for the gravel road part.

We liked: Nice araucaria trees, an amazing sunset we saw a tad south of Laguna Llai and after section 11 and 12 the easy terrain.

We did not like so much: The horsflies.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections. It took us 3.5 days via regular trail SOBO.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked supermarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

- Accommodation: The house marked "lodging, food" charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner.

- Shopping: Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. There is a panel just before the street going to the grocery indicating that the mini-market is 100m away. There are two other minishops.

- Bus: The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

*Guallalí
Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with dinner and breakfast for 20000 CLP.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*Laguna El Barco :
Updated Mar 22

-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus Guallali - Ralco - Santa Barbara - Los Angeles 05:30

Updated January 2022:
Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

Updated February 2025:
Bus from Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa to Los Angeles: 
- at 5:30 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 14:00 on Sunday
Bus from Los Angeles to Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa: 
- at 14:00 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 19:15 on Sunday

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108664113.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603529.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603527.jpg|thumb|Araucarias at GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603530.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603538.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_1086641189.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2025-12-31T10:14:38Z

Hoscheid-l:

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT10 Option 1 (Termas Pucon Mahuida) and Option 2 (Cumbre Copahue): I added in 2025 additional routes east of the regular route. In good weather and with the vulcano being calm, these more remote routes are more adventurous but might require some exploration.

- GPT10 Option 3 (Ruta Fronterra): This completely new route was suggested and investigated by Manon and Robin and connects GPT10 Option 1 with GPT11 on a more eastern route by traversing the mountain ridges along the border to Argentina. This route bypasses the more populated valleys along the regular route where in rare cases some tension with the local Pehuenche population was reported. This route also bypasses Guallali. Thererfore, more provisions are required.
==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT10/2025-12-19 to 2025-12-21/SOBO/RR/Denis and Robert '''

Shop in Trapa Trapa was closed and for Wifi we needed password but health center was closed. We came to village at 17. At the end we just bought some fruits from guy selling it from the car and eggs from nice lady while leaving the village.
From 17 km there is no water until Camping El Barco.
Camping is open for 5000 pesos per person, but no food or snack, no WiFi. We used electricity to recharge and cold showers.
In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place.

Attractiveness 3/5
Difficulty 2/5

*''' 2025.13.12 to 2025.14.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 1A + Opt 1 + Opt 1C + / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an injury we had to change our plans.

TLDR: Decent resupply shop in Butalelbún up the valley from Trapa Trapa. Option 1A very good trail connecting to Option 1 with possible campsites not far from leaving the road. Copahue - snow from around 2300m depending on the slope aspect plus fresh snow due to cold front. For us very cold day therefore we skirted the volcano somewhere below Option 1. Option 1C very nice, but unfortunately for us an agressive cow herd (approx. 60) charged at us on the meadow before the Paso de Pucón Mahuida. The ridge has a small slightly technical and exposed bit at the end, but with possibility to go around. The bushbash down pretty steep but not the worst, only bamboo (there must be a better trail somewhere). Not a person on the whole section.

After sections 8 & 9 and some R&R in Los Ángeles we got back on the same bus now going in opposite direction to get us to our start of section 10.

Getting there.
The bus leaves the Los Ángeles rural bus station at around 14:15 even though the schedule says it leaves at 14:00.
The most interesting part about this 6h journey was getting on the bus.
Luckily we were there almost an hour before and gathered enough info that we have to get in a queue if we hope to get any seats. There was already some line of people when we got there almost an hour early. When the bus arrived and the door opened it was sort of a “Takeshi Castle” where people charged in, scrambing and pushing past each other like mad. By our rough estimates it seemed that we are fine and will have seats even with all the people ahead of us however there was a scheme going on. People would get on the bus and put their bags across two or four seats to book it for someone else without themselves even sitting there. So by the time we got on, it seemed that even though bus was half empty all the seats were already “taken”.
Well, I didn’t agree with this scheme so we moved the bags and still took the empty seats.
We knew how long this bus ride is going to be and standing for that amount of time in a crowded bus was a hard no. There was a little scuffle later when some people returned but with some seat changing and rearrangements those that were in line on time all did get their seats.

So after 6h of sitting on bus (the bus did two longer stops one in Santa Barbara and one in Cauñicú) we arrived at the very final stop of the bus at the end of the road in Butalelbún where the bus turns around (-37.78489, -71.20359). It was super windy and the forecast said it will soon start to rain, it was also half past eight and getting dark. We already started talking with some people on the bus towards the end and they offered to stay at their place somewhere between Trapa Trapa and Butalelbún. We were tempted but still hoped we could hike in at least a little bit.
When we got off the bus there were some more people gathered we talked with one of them and asked if there is a sheltered place somewhere up the 4x4 road for a tent, but the man - Mario offered us to pitch a tent in his garden behind his tool shed. As the wind was picking up and it started to drizzle he actually offered for us to stay in the shed which we happily accepted.

Mario is a local villager that keeps horses and used to work as a guide in Ralco he lives in Butalelbún with his wife and small daughter and is very nice. He has a car and said that for a fee he could drive us somewhere if we needed e.g. up the 4x4 road to Termas De Chancho Ko.
I asked if I could share his WhatsApp nr. here in case other hikers would like to use this offer and he agreed.

Mario Manquepi +56 9 3329 9028

And very importantly there is a shop (kiosk) in Butalelbún that offers a somewhat decent resupply: pasta, canned goods, oil, hamburgesas, pollo vienesa, drinks, chocolate bars, candy etc. (that’s what we saw through the window and what the sign outside mentioned) the kiosk is located here: -37.78532, -71.20343 and there is a bell that you have to ring for someone to come and attend the shop.
Since we had just come from Los Ángeles we didn’t need anything from the shop.
But if you arrive late in Trapa Trapa then calling Mario for a ride to Butalelbún for some shopping is definitely an option. The bus passes through Trapa Trapa roughly 19:30 (really depends on the day of the week) so you could also just wait for the bus to get to Butalelbún.

A few km before Butalelbún there was a sign that said camping, we only saw it while on the bus and I can’t give you a precise location but Mario confirmed that there is a camping somewhere there. So it could be an alternative to staying in Trapa Trapa. Also the bus to Los Ángeles leaves from Butalelbún at 5:30 in the morning and you would most likely get a seat. Though the buses stay overnight in Malla Malla and in the morning go to Butalelbún from there.

Day 1 - Since the day before we didn’t hike at all I only count the days we actually spent walking.

Initially we planned to hike the option 2B but due to very cold and rainy weather we opted for a more sheltered option 1A which turned out to be an excellent choice. Mostly very good trail all the way to connect to option 1.
And since we started from Butalelbún we didn’t have to walk the boring first 9km on the road.
Another bonus for this option was that already about 1.5km from the Bridge {10-01A} [9.0/1137] there was a nice looking campsite with water by an abandoned puesto -37.78871, -71.22362. So even arriving with a late bus from Los Ángeles it should be possible to get there for an overnight.
There was one more option earlier right next to a stream, and well sheltered in the forest, but the ground was slightly slanted, puesto seemed nicer.
There was another sheltered campsite with water nearby further on -37.79904, -71.22790.
In general the 9km walk to connect to option 1 was really nice with plenty of water along the way and two passes. The Pass {10-01A} [14.1/1900] is actually marked in a slightly wrong location and the actual pass with a cairn is here -37.81328, -71.23357. Nice views of the Laguna Inaprachehue and the start of the plateau on the RR, Laguna Liay unfortunately hidden by the forest.
From the pass a short ways down past the puesto (horses and cows) and straight up to the next pass -37.82975, -71.22698 after which the trail traverses a steep slope. Due to the recent heavy rain storms in the area the trail had been damaged and eroded in some places but still walkable.
Right before joining the option 1 there is a ford -37.83599, -71.22817 but we managed to rock-hop across.
Once on the option 1 there was another abandoned puesto with a simple table and log-seats outside, nice place for lunch -37.83890, -71.22406
The trail then shortly after leaves the forest, goes past a few puestos, and dissipates in a cow meadow. From which it we continued CC past some waterfalls over some streams and climbed a very steep gully on loose rocks up towards more desolate and rocky lower reaches of Copahue.
Standing here -37.85475, -71.21840 where option 1B joins the option 1 it honestly didn’t look like option 1B would be possible at least not by the suggested trajectory, it looked steep and cliffy.

It was a pretty cold and windy day with a low cloud at around 2400m. So once we reached around here -37.85748, -71.21723 we deviated from the gpx and made our own way traversing below the option 1 only reaching a maximum elevation of about 2350m instead of 2430m like the gpx suggested. It also helped us to avoid more snow patches though we still crossed a few which were low angled and easy. We rejoined the gpx around here -37.87641, -71.20487 but still mostly followed what seemed to us like better trajectory.
There were a few small streams along the way and once lower down we picked up some sort of a trail again.
Termas Pucón Mahuida seemed ok there was one made pool with a lot of algea in it that would need some cleaning. Though very wet ground around it to get to it and not really any good campsite nearby. So even though we were cold the idea of undressing in the cold wind to get in the terma to perhaps get warm for a moment didn’t seem that appealing so we continued a little bit onwards.
We found a fantastic, sheltered campsite with water nearby, right on the junction where option 1 joins the option 1C -37.89779, -71.17220.
The temperatures were to further drop below 0C at night, so we braced for a chilly night.

Day 2 - Option 1C (Natalie’s and Tomáš’s new route on the boarder of Chile and Argentina)
The cold wind persisted and even though it was less overcast than the day before it was really cold already from the morning.
According to the map the morning walk promised to be an easy breezy along a 4x4 track towards Argentina and it was for about the first 1.5km until we reached the meadow on which there were a lot of cows and bulls.
The first group of around 20 with a big bull among them got alerted by us but they were a bit further from the 4x4 track and across the stream so even though they showed some anxiety about our presence we managed to pass them quickly without an escalation. A bit further we saw the main herd of about 80 cows and the 4x4 track went slightly closer to them. The cows noticed us already from a distance and started acting a bit weird, as we got closer ca. 100m which in my mind is still keeping a safe distance, something triggered them and they all started running, some of them away from us but the majority of the herd seemed to be running right at us, yikes.
Luckily there were bushes nearby so while staying calm we kept our stride and went behind the bushes to seek cover and to get out of their sight which worked. They were all mooing at us but they didn’t continue to chase us and we managed to keep on walking while staying out of their sight behind and around the bushes.
Cows are annoying and hard to read, I prefer being charged by a pack of dogs rather than a pack of cows, I find dogs are a lot easier to understand.
We had it happen to us once before on section 33H, that time we didn’t hide just stood our ground raised our poles and shouted at them and the cows stopped about 10m in front of us and then kept pushing us out of their meadow, also not the most pleasant encounter.
Further along the meadow there was another group of about 30 cows that also got anxious the moment they saw us so we just bushwhacked around them.
Once the road started to climb up we were clear of the cows. Probably the main reason they are so triggered at this time of the year is that they all have calves that they are very protective of. Probably all they have seen are humans on horses i.e. arieros, so when we walk by a strange looking creatures who don’t even command a horse they just freak out. Oh well, it’s part of the GPT, at least we have all these trails thanks to them.

The last water before gaining the ridge was here -37.90611, -71.12002. Getting to the flat ridge top is an easy CC with some trail lower on the ascent. And the ridge is mostly also an easy CC until you get to here: -37.95882, -71.12612 the ridge gets narrower and there is one easy step of downclimbing. After that the ridge remains narrow (not a knifes edge) and since we were going down on it we couldn’t see what’s below and from above it looked like a cliff drop. So from the place where we did the downclimbing step there was sort of a saddle from which we went below the ridge on the north side, traversed underneath the cliffy part of the ridge and then rejoined the ridge. Doing the ridge in this direction that was definitely the better way to do it. Looking back at the cliffs from below I could see that if doing the ridge in the opposite direction one could probably stay on the ridge and find a way through the cliffs with a bit of scrambling since you could see what is ahead where you are going. But coming down on the ridge it just seemed a bit more time consuming and since it was still very cold and windy and we had been walking for over 5h without breaks we looked for what is the fastest and easiest way not the most adventurous.
Then came the BB of the spur above Puesto {10-01G} [0.2/1484] in the beginning there was some trail that then disappeared. We pretty much tried to follow the gpx exactly but there was definitely no trail there. A steep and sometimes very steep BB through the bamboo thicket. It wasn’t too bad but after 6h of walking without a lunch (because it was too cold to stop) the BB felt very annoying. I definitely wouldn’t want to do it in the opposite direction, but people earlier claimed it was easy, so who knows, maybe we were doing it wrong.
I believe there must be a better way somewhere there, either on the same spur or in one of the gullies on either side of the spur, because we saw a bunch of cows on the meadow near the top of the spur. Unless they all got there from the valley north of the ridge on the option 1D trail, because we also saw a lot of cows down in that valley. It was finally time for a lunch by the stream -37.97455, -71.13867 first water since coming up the ridge.
Soon after that the trail reappeared and it was quite pleasant walking once again. Another potential, sheltered campsite on the way: -37.99719, -71.13963.
There was nobody at the Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] except cows but it looked like people would still be actively using it. We skirted around the fence of it and then the trail turned into a minor road that Natalie mentions.
If you are heading towards Guallalí then it’s probably the easiest to just keep following the minor road going west. Our plan was to join the GPT11 RR directly. The trail, if there was any, leaving the road and continuing south was not visible or obvious until you reach the edge of the trees 50m further south. Then some part CC, some part cow trails brought us to the GPT 11 RR.

(Continued in Section 11)

Overall I would say it was very nice and scenic way to do the section 10, we didn’t see a single person the whole way since leaving the Butalelbún. A good weather for this way is definitely preferred but we did it in suboptimal conditions and it was still nice (lucky it wasn’t raining). The main challenges for us were the cold and the cows, the rest was minor.
The plus side to the cold weather was that we didn’t see a single tabano which was a pleasant surprise, compared to sections 8 and 9 when they were very vicious and followed us even on the ridges.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 16th 2025 – Dec 19th 2025 / 3 days (0.5 days on Dec 16th and 19th each) / NOBO / RR, Variant D, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa, 15 days total on the trail.

Day 1: we left late from Romira’s after a large dinner with the idea to make it to Laguna Del Barco on Var D for the night. But our stomachs were just too full and we camped here

Day 2: continued on Variant D to Laguna del Barco and had a long siesta there. We were asked to pay 3000cp per person for entrance but when we said that we had heard in Guallalí that it would be 1000cp per person they didn’t argue with us. We arrived on an early Wednesday morning and the laguna didn’t seem touristy to us. Hardly any people around. No food vendors, no wifi. The bath houses have outlets – and the coldest shower I ever had in my life! Colder than the lake! We spent about 5 hours at the laguna to let the heat of the day pass before hiking up to the plateau. You have to pass through the property on the road to the laguna to get to the ascent. There was no one around when we walked through, signs indicate that they sell tortillas and mote con huesillo there. The hike on the plateau was beautiful with great views! We had decided to sleep on the plateau, we made it to the creek mentioned in the logs before (S 37° 54.077, W 71° 18.470) which carried no water. We didn’t need it. We camped here: S 37° 53.711 W 71° 18.333

Day 3: crossed the rest of the plateau and stopped to fill up our water bottles at the Puesto 10 [14.5/1297]. Shortly after we passed the first open puesto with lots of goats and cows. We got spooked by the dogs and decided not to go up to the man who came out to look at us from a distance. We regretted it a little bit since that really was the only puesto we passed from GPT 12 – 09 that was open. We wanted to get close to Trapa Trapa and camped here: S 37° 45.301, W 71° 17.029 which really wasn’t a great spot.

Day 4: hiked the last couple km to Trapa Trapa, passed a place that looks like a nice spot to camp closer to the village here: S 37°43.522, W 71° 16.403 (it is off the MR by the river after having passed already a couple of houses, I’m not sure if the land belongs to someone). We asked a woman working in her garden (S37° 42.741, W71° 16.062) where we could find food and she offered us lunch if we came back in an hour (rice, chicken, sausage, salad, bread, mote con huesillo for 15000cp per person and she also sold us pasta, rice, flour, harina tostada out of her own stock). The wifi is not open anymore at the health center, we asked for the password and the young man working there gave it to us. He didn’t want us to stay inside the house but let us charge our phones in one of the offices. Most importantly, he gave us the valuable information that there was a new “negocio”/store close to the cemetery. The shop and food/lodging indicated in the GPS files were closed and no people around. The minimarket is here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760. José is the owner and he and his family are very kind. He had opened his little shop in Sept. 2025. They had a pretty good selection and had all and more we needed for the trail except for maybe nuts/dried fruits/fresh veggies (rice, lentils, pasta, flavor packages, harina tostada, flour, oats, cornflakes, cookies, batteries, chocolate powder etc.). We talked a little while, he new the trails in and out of Trapa Trapa well and when he heard about our love for sopaipillas he offered to have some made for us by his wife. He loved hearing about the GPT and offered to help out as best he can. His number: +56 94220 6627. Well supplied we made our way NOBO on GPT 09.

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-11 to 2025-04-13 / 2.5 days / NOBO / Hiking / RR, 10C and 10D (Laguna Liay) / Peggy

Day 1: I left late after having a long conversation with Romina at Guallali. I found a good spot before the camping at Laguna el Barco, on the heights above the lake, sheltered from the lake's humidity where I could make my evening and morning fire.

Day 2: Crossing the camping area was deserted at this time. I climbed up to the plateau where I met some motorcyclists (Saturday). At first, I grumbled to myself because of the noise, but they also have the right to enjoy the place in their own way! Come on, Peggy! And in truth, I just followed their tracks all day until I reached Laguna Liay, where I arrived at the right time to take a photo of them! The descent to the lake was a bit tricky. I tried 10C, but I couldn’t find the trail and it seemed very steep. I went back to 10D, which I had tried initially. I got half-lost in the bamboo, losing then finding the cow trail. Once down, I just got some water and then went back up. No way I was going to sleep by the lake in the cold and humidity (autumn, of course!). Once at the top, I took some time to find the right spot (humidity, wind, flat if possible, and maybe a view...). It was late, but I found it, collected some wood, made my fire, and enjoyed the view with the full moon. I slept well!

Day 3: Descent to Trapa Trapa. All the puestos were closed at this time. I didn’t meet anyone. I went straight to the lodging point km0.3 at Mireya’s place and stayed there for 2 nights knowing it would rain all day (and snow at higher altitudes). Be careful, in Trapa Trapa, there’s only network with Wom and maybe Claro. Otherwise, there’s Wi-Fi at the health center (Posta de Salud, at the center – didn’t need to enter a password, connection accessible from the outside).

*"2025-02-17 to 18/ 2 days, SOBO, RR, Henry and Emilie:"

Day 1:
After waking up at a beautiful campsite just outside Trapa Trapa we went down to the store where we bought some more sugary snacks as well as half a kilo of fresh honey! (Possibly too much?) We continued South through Trapa and before leaving were also able to buy some fresh eggs. The trail is well troden through the valley and it is very beautiful though dusty. We came across two very easy fjords through the day and camped at (S 37.812384° O 71.274833°). Throughout the day there were a few aggressive puesto dogs, it seemed to me though that they were smart enough to back off when I raised my stick at them.

Day 2:
After waking up we made our way up to Laguna Liey. A steep but short climb. Getting down to the lake though was another matter. It's steep and for us confusing, we lost the trail on the way down and ended up doing some bush bashing. Made it eventually though, filled up water for the last time until Laguna del Barco (there is no water on the plateau). The way OUT of Laguna Liey was very rough for us. The tracks seemed to lead us straight up a cliff, eventually we made it out my following horse tracks around the cliff to the left. Rest of the day was moderatly easy but long, made it to El Barco after dark and were able to pay for a very slanted campsite (S 37.941382° O 71.284620°) (8000 each). Lots of people selling snacks and bread there and we managed to score some cold beers. The next day we hitch hiked from El Barco back to Los Angeles not completing the section to instead head down South.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-20 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Natalie&Tomas option 3 from GPT11 (border ridge), option 1&2 (Cupahue ascent), RR / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume : both Volcan Cupahue option (1&2) and Natalie&Thomas option (3) to connect GPT11 near argentinian border are really amazing and made to be combined if you can do without Guallali food supply. We highly recommand it if the weather is good. (Thanks a lot Natalie&Tomas !)
Coming from GPT11 we camped at the abandonned puesto at -37.978400, -71.141083 (very good camp spot : peasible, water pool, beautiful araucarias with pinones supply).
Day 1 : Abandonned puesto from GPT 11 > Camp at 2170 under Cupahue
We climbed the ridge dividing the valley in into two following Natalie&Tomas tracks to the north. With the trail slope before the ford, the ascending BB&TL ridge is truely easy. Then easy CC to join the main ridge at about -37.958580, -71.142415 and then following the ridge to the east until the summit/plateau (on the north side sometimes). Really good views on Cupahue and Collaqui following the ridge to the north. We joined and went down the Paso Pucon Mahuida non-used MR until to reach option 1. Passing by the hotsprings which seem ok, we went up until a camp at 2170 under Cupahue glacier at -37.87753, -71.19874. Volcanic ground was pretty easy to hike finally.
Day 2 : Camp at 2170 > Cupahue ascent > Trapa Trapa
Easy CC to the summit (beautiful crater and view) and way down to highest puesto, with also spectacular views to the north. From there, we followed a path with only 100 meters of easy BB (between option 1 and option 1A) and then Option 1 and RR to Trapa Trapa.
We conclued then 6,5 days of GPT 12, 11 and 10 and slept at welcoming Mapuche family home at "Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]".
Manon and Robin continued NOBO and I (Thomas) took the daily 6am bus to Los Angeles.

* '''2024-02-05 - 2024-02-06/ 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Elijah and Michael'''
No water on plateau after Laguna Liay as previous notes.

Camping at Laguna Barco 8000 CLP per person. Hot food such as sopapaillas, tortillas, completos, etc available. Minishop has snacks, cookies and drinks.

Shop at Guallil had sufficient options for a limited resupply - soups, ramen, pasta, biscuits, etc. Shop also provided accommodation for 30,000CLP including cena and desayuno.

*'''2024-01-31 to 2024-02-03 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Chris & Julia'''

Beautiful araucarias (and yummi piñones), pretty easy trail, Laguna El Barco less romantic and more overcrowded than expected but nice food! No snow, no fords worth mentioning. Also possible in less time.

Day 1: started after resupplying in Trapa Trapa (only cookies) in the afternoon. Camped at [S 37° 45' 18.08" W 071° 17' 01.75"] ~6km (first possible camping spot with water and flat ground). A lot of arieros passing.

Day 2: A lot of puestos. Last water at 14.5km. Trail to the pass is very beautiful, stunning araucarias. We also harvested some low hanging piñones. We reached two by hand (twisting, not pulling, worked for us). For another we used a rope stretched between two long branches. A bit tricky, but it worked. They are not ripe yet, but they taste good raw and even better roasted. We camped at Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] to avoid walking 19km without water. The Laguna there is really just a dirty pond, we spend hours (!) filtering water for two people with our befree, would not recommend sleeping there.

Day 3: Nice and easy trail. We followed a wrong trail at [S 37° 56' 01.04" W 071° 18' 15.57"] for ~2.5 km. At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 8000 CPL per person for camping (has bathrooms + showers). It was pretty crowded (guess because of weekend?). But there were 3 small stands with nice food (Tortillas, Sopaipillas, Completos, some meet stuff,
Softdrinks, & Mote con huesillo -> you should try, super nice chilean summerdrink).

Day 4: Following the trail there is a nice Camp at the Laguna after the official campsite if you prefere a more private spot (we would have camped there if we had known). Met Tobi + Mara from Germany (Viele Grüße :D!). Hitched directly to Ralco from the road. From Ralco there are buses to Los Angeles (at least every 2hours).

*''' 2024-01-29 to 2024-01-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 10E+RR / Dorota Szparaga '''
Day1: A lot of puestos on part till 14.5 km of RR. I had some really interesting talks about the Mapuche conflict and war between Russia and Ukraine. All people were friendly. Camp at Laguna Liay taking OH 10C - easy to find. After that, one woman said to me that near Laguna there is a path where crossed thieves with stolen cows from Guallalli. Very nice and quiet place.

Day2: I came back to the trail tracking back and found a shortcut. Took water from the lake for the whole day. I had a strange case near Laguna in the forest. A big bird tried to attack me. The plateau is amazing. Descending to Laguna Barco at 32.1/1296 there is a puesto and a gate. I decided not to go through camping at Laguna Barco, as there were a lot of people there. Took variant 10E on MR. At km 6.0 of this variant it is possible to buy soft drinks and ice creams. Night at Guallalli at minishop 11 (0.1/951) fideos, sweets, soft drinks. Bed, breakfast,dinner 30000 CLP. Very nice place. In the evening I had a really interesting talk about the Mapuche and animals. This family is not Mapuche. There is a good net here, Entel.

*''' 2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-26 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 10-C, 10-E / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Highlights: Stunning Araucaria forests, encounters with the Pehuenche people living there, Laguna de Liay, puma tracks and puma stories.

Challenges: No water on the plateau. The creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470' has dried out already by this time of the year.

I had lots of friendly encounters with the native Pehuenche and some not so friendly ones with their dogs. I’ve made it a habit to greet people in their language (mari mari), then approach them and introduce myself in Spanish with my name and a handshake. This led to a couple of interesting, informative and friendly conversations with lots of mutual learning.

Day 1

Started in the evening in Trapa Trapa and camped at [7.1/1181], where I met Elias, the owner of this land. He told me a lot about Pehuenche history, his hard but also beautiful and tranquil life in the mountains and about other mochileros who camped on his land.

Day 2

Started late because of hip pain. Higher up the valley two people independently from each other told me that they frequently see pumas (“leones”) on the edge of the plateau, one told me he has sheep “cuando no los comen los leones”, asked me if I had a revolver to defend myself, then reassured me pumas don’t attack people unless feeling cornered or protecting their offspring. One Pehuenche asked me how I know the way. I showed him my GPS device and showed him the track. He was a bit astonished but didn’t suspect any commercial exploitation as had happened previously according to the manual.

I shared Volkers feeling of awe when I saw the group of Araucarias right before the ascent to the plateau. It’s simply beautiful. Took a long food and coffee break there and ascended to Laguna Liay. On the way up, the path is partly heavily overgrown and at times difficult to find between other paths.

Up there I found myself in a fairytale forest in the evening light. I hashed my first glimpse of Laguna Liay shortly before sunset and it was mesmerizing. When looking for the way down to the laguna I lost the path and did some heavy CC BB but after a couple of minutes decided this can’t be the right way, double checked my location using the GPS and found the correct path. Still overgrown, but recognizable and easy to walk.

Camped close to the spot indicated by Nimrod & Tamar. Pure beauty and tranquility!

Day 3

Purified and packed enough water for the day and then continued my ascent to the and way over the plateau. Shortly before the intersection X {10} [17.7/1676] I discovered my first puma tracks.

Checked the little creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470': It has dried out, so the last chance to fill up water before the plateau is at Laguna de Liay (as described in the manual).

At a rock close by I took a siesta/food/coffee break. Lorenzo, a Pehuenche in his sixties, came up from the valley in his horse with three dogs, and had them drive his cattle downhill. He then turned around, rode towards me and offered to carry my backpack on his horse all the way down to Laguna del Barco. I was amazed by this generous offer, but still wanted to carry it myself, so I thanked him many times but declined. Later met him next to his house at X {10} [32.1/1296], where we took photos together and exchanged numbers.

Camped at Laguna de Barco and filled my hungry stomach with a churrasco, a huge serving of French fries, a fruit shake and a Coca Cola. The restaurant closes around 21 opens at 8 in the morning.

Day 4

Bought a sopaipilla (similar to the hungarian lángos) and two tortilla breads and took the variant 10-E to Guallalí. Bad decision because 10-E seems to be the only way to get from and to Laguna de Barco by car, so I got to eat a lot of dust. Good decision, because I got offered a ride a couple of times (politely declined) and one passing driver gifted me cookies and fruits (gratefully accepted). There’s also a house where they sell ice cream. I asked a couple of people with chicken on their yards, if they sell eggs. None had any because most hens don’t lay that time of the year due to the heat as I learned later at the Guallalí shop. In Guallalí, shortly before the police station, I got invited for a coffee, soft drink, tortilla bread with butter and a friendly and very interested conversation with the elder couple who lives there and their family from Los Ángeles. When I left, they also gifted me cookies.

Bought a can of tuna and a pack of tomato sauce at the shop in Guallalí and continued to GPT11.

'''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, OH10C+D (Laguna Liay) / Nimrod & Tamar'''

1st day:
After buying some supplies from a family we started hiking up the valley.
There were some unmarked puestos and tons of nice places for camp.
We asked permission from the family in a puesto to camp in their area and camped at ().

2nd day:
Last water point is near puesto [14.5/1297]. Next water point is near Laguna El Barco on RR or Laguna Liay.

There was a trail crossing at approx (-37.83314, -71.27040). We didn't notice it because the trail which is not on the files is much more clear, and walked on it for 200 meters until we felt something is wrong, and turned back. It might be easier trail up.

OH (10-C) until approx 1 km is partly easy CC because of the fire. From 1 km to 2.1 the trail has changed but it was easy to follow.

TL(10-D) does not exist and was hard BB so we skipped it. There might be another trail going down to the Laguna but we didn't look for it.

Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] is really poor in comparison to the lagoon beach. It was a dirty pond with a lot of cows around. So we hiked back and camped on the beach at (-37.83347, -71.28245).
Had afternoon swim and really nice view!

3rd day:
Easy trails until laguna El Barco. We harvested low hanging piñones we found at (-37.84210, -71.27454).
We recommend bringing a 15 meters cord. We had only 4 meters. The piñones were not ripe yet but were sweet, and could be eaten fresh without roasting.

At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 1000 clp per person only for entrance. There was a small stand which sold fresh tortillas and some junk food. We had a Churrasca, coke, and ice cream 😋.

We discovered that the bus to Los Angeles departs Gulalli at 5:30 so we put an effort to get there before darkness.
When it was completely dark we saw a bus parking in a yard, 1 km before Gulalli! Happy and excited we discovered it was the driver's house, which let us camp in his garden and take a hot shower in his home.

The first bus stop is at the police station and the ride takes approx 5 hours and cost us 3500 clp per person.

* ''' 2025-JAN-09 to 2025-JAN-10 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
Found an excellent campsite: S37° 46.967' W71° 16.896', right on the riverbank and free of cow manure. The river pocket was teeming with trout during the evening feed. A small fly or tenkara gear is recommended for fishing.

* ''' 2024-DEC-24 > 25 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 1/5
| Danger : aucun

Il restait un peu de neige alors j'ai trouvé de l'eau facilement.
Juste avant le Laguna El Barco il y a un camping 5000CLP/nuit pour emplacement, douche glacée, eau potable, électricité et poubelle. J'y suis allé car c'etait marqué qu'il etait interdit de camper près du lac...

*'''2024-DEC-22 to 2024-DEC-23 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A straightforward stage dominated by a relatively flat plateau with araucarias. A highlight of the journey was swimming in Laguna El Barco. We set off from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon along a pleasant gravel road, carrying food for two days. After the ford [9.5/1171], the trail continues through a beautiful and wide river valley, where several puestos are located. We camped at a nice spot, Camp [14.1/1269], under the araucarias. There, we each collected 3 liters of water, as there was none on the plateau, except for one location (-37.90128, -71.30783), where there was a small stream that was not marked in the track files. It’s possible that this stream could be dry during peak summer.

The ascent to the plateau was taken via a more well-trodden and gradual path (approximately 300 meters longer than in the track files, but more frequently used). The plateau itself is a paradise of araucarias with views of Volcán Callaqui. After descending to Laguna El Barco, we first paid 1000 CLP per person for entry at point Lake, Camp [32.9/1292], and then enjoyed a pleasant picnic by the lake while swimming. It’s a beautiful lake.

The route to Guallalí mostly follows a pleasant MR, although it can be somewhat monotonous at times. Upon arriving in Guallalí, we stocked up on supplies for two days for the GPT11 stage at a small shop, Shop {11} [0.1/951] (Mini Shop). They had pasta, rice, tuna, jurel, cookies, and soft drinks.

'''2024-Dec-16 to 2024-Dec-18 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Not much to say for this section it's pretty straight forward. We did it in a relaxed 2.5 days to avoid spending the night in Trapa Trapa but its easily doable in 2.

25.2km water - there was a small stream flowing well here. Could have saved us carrying so much water to camp up on the plateau.

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Continued on to 9

*'''24-12-11 - 24-12-12/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''
A section of beauty and peace
There are few technical things to say about this section, perhaps this: on the way from the valley up to the pass use your device more often than you might feel it is necessary. There are many trails and yours is often not the one you see in front of you, but the overgrown or blocked by a broken tree to your right or left.
The moment you arrive at the first Araucaria trees (though some on the way down to Trapa Trapa on gpt09) is just overwhelming. Camped at Laguna Liay, when I arrived there, I just didn’t want to leave this place.
Day 2: After the short first day, this one promised to become a long one. The plateau is just breathtaking, even after 08+09 the days before. At Laguna El Barco no food, no wifi, but a great opportunity to cool down in the lake. Some km later on RR the MR (good to walk, few rubble, shadow) passes a house, the sheep ran away from me, a lamb left behind, I draw the attention of a woman to the lamb - and was invited for lunch with that very nice „spanish“ (not Pehuenche) family.
Arrived at Guallali at 6.30 p.m., presented at the carabineros (very friendly!), the officer brought me to the „shop“, which is hidden in a garden house (don‘t expect any meaningful resupply).
Camped not far, to the right of RR11, in a small valley beyond some Eucalyptus and Araucaria trees (river not far, but deep down). Two women passed by, first sceptical, then offered to join them and get some bred (declined).

*'''3Dec2024 - 5dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR -varC - RR / 2 days / Clara'''

The ascent and descent of the plateau are awesome, full of araucaria trees and beautiful landscapes of the montains around. Sad that I've to hurry because of bad weather comming.
Fords : easy
Snow : big snow fields from about 1700m alt but easy to cross.
Water : still full on the plateau at this period.
Navigation : often many paths but easy to find the good one with the GPS. A bit more difficult to follow on the ascent after puesto at 14.5. And also around the pass cause the path often goes under the snow fields so needed more gps to stay in the good direction.
Var C : the lake is really nice. Made it with not so much bushbashing by staying closest as possible to the tracks, gps in hand at least at the begining.
Camp : around 8km (water) and camping at laguna el barco was open (5000 CLP/pers/night)

Arrive in Guallali before the rain :
Eat and sleep at the point mini-market with Romina and her family.
30kCLP for bed + lunch + dinner + breakfast.
Mini market : pasta, soups.

Entel phone coverage.

2024-Nov-26 to 2024-Nov-28 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - C, D / Karin

Camp: camp near laguna Liay (km0.1 var D) / Campamento Laguna El Barque (km32.9)

The MR/trail is easy to follow, except for the ascent after puesto km14.5, where the trail is no well visible. All along the valley from Trapa Trapa to the late puesto were a lot of small streams running over the road. Some were easy to cross without getting wet feet, others were a bit bigger, but never more than mid-calf.

From an altitude of 1760m was still snow. The snow on the pass and the plateau was managable, but slows down quite a bit and makes navigation more challenging. This on a distance of about 8km.

As there is still snow, there is a lot of water. Even on the plateau were a few streams, which will probably dry out during summer.

The camping at the Laguna El Barque was still closed. I asked two men how were working on the cabañas if I could pit up the tent anyways. This was not a problem and they did not charge me for this. At the camping were sanitary instalations, tables...

I arrived Guallalí at 12hrs. Because of the snow, I decided to go to Los Angeles. The carabineros station was empty, so I went to the minishop (gpt 11 km0.1) and asked when the buses leave. The owner told me that there is only one bus everyday at 5.30 am. But I could try to hichhike. While waiting, two locals came by and told me that in the next community (Chenqueco) are more cars going to/in direction of Ralco and that from there I would be more lucky.
About 5min later a car drove by and took me to this community. From there I hichhiked again.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-19 // 1,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel'''

I was a bit anxious on that section because of a big fire on the valley of the vokcan Copahue. Everything was under the steam all around, and with a big smell of fire. Few helicopters passed, and I was seriously questioning myself to continue or not.

Fortunately for me the track change of the valley to reach the beautiful Laguna El Barco.

It was late on the season so there were absolutely no one there. But In season that would be a great camp spot (event if it's probably popular and not so quiet as there's a lot of camping places).

Fill your water at the bottom of the valley because when you'll reach the plateau you'll have no water at all, until you go down to the valley.

Plateau is pretty nice, met a lot of people up there harvesting piñones. Easy horse track to follow. Ground is sandy and very steamy on the way down. Then you arrive on a valley with lot of water and lor of arrieros, great to chat with some of those that are leaving around there.

I crossed the Ford {10} [9.5/1171] then camo just after that. Had a great and quiet night there, happy to clean myself after a very dusty day, but I reckon it's gonna be like that for few sections further north aha !

Then easy track, gravel and road. No more ford to cross. Until the tiny trapa trapa.

Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).

* '''2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Started in Trapa Trapa around 15:30 and walked to right before camp 7.1. Hid in the forest to camp instead of using the nice grassy area as a lot of people on horses were using the trail.

Day 2 - Felt worried about the multiple puesto dogs and the aggressive person along the RR and option 1 so decided to try a new route to eventually rejoin GPT option 2, the trail to the summit of Copahue (pronounced Copaway). Went cross country going South from my 7.1 camp for a while until I started climbing East. Eventually joined a trail that seemed to get good use. There is probably no need to go cross country if you find the start of that trail… Left the trail at -37.78784, -71.25114 and went CC again on the plateau. Met a couple harvesting piñones and chatted with them. As I was leaving, their dog nipped my ankle… so much for avoiding dogs. Stopped by Laguna Negra (-37.81527, -71.21972) for lunch and water. Camped by a small lake at -37.83042, -71.20250. Beautiful views around that area. There were patches of old (last year’s) and new (last week’s) snow. In the evening, I went to investigate a direct route to Copahue up the peak at -37.83807, -71.20001, but felt that it was a little too exposed for me and my big backpack.

Day 3 - Took a slightly lower route on the West side of previously mentioned peak to Copahue from my campsite which worked great. Water at -37.83722, -71.20762 and also further depending on the snow quantity. Rejoined the marked OSM trail up to Copahue at around 2,750 meters of elevation, where I left most of my gear and went to the summit. The hike down from the volcano was very slow going, I followed the OSM route mostly but at times I was in between the GPT line and the OSM line. Went to check out the hot springs, which looked gross to me. Camped at -37.89625, -71.16599, on the road leading to Argentina.

Day 4 - I wanted to try the new option that Nathalie and Tomas have posted below for this section, so I followed the road to Argentina up to the valley that parallels the border and made my way to the ridge. Views from the ridge are spectacular and I enjoyed that part very much, following the border at first and ending up here: -37.95833, -71.11928. Difficulties came when I tried to come down the ridge following the route posted on FB. I backed out of the proposed “best route” as it was too exposed and scrambling-like for my liking. I ended up going down the steep talus slope for a while, traversing as Natalie described and ended up doing a fair amount of unpleasant bush-bashing to reach the trail at the bottom of the valley. There are probably better routes than the one I took though, I didn’t have the opportunity to study the satellite imagery very well before going :-). Looking back I should have walked in the creek bed earlier rather than fight with all the bamboo. Ended up with a fair amount of scratches and ripped pants. Camped shortly after I found the trail in the valley.

Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.

* '''2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi'''

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for our tips on pinones

Nothing to add that's not described below, except we found the native Pehuenche people friendly. We think it helps to great them in their language (Mari mari - hello; Chaltu may - thank you). This you can find with a bit of digging online. Would love to have interacted with them more - they seem friendlier up the valley at the puestos (not in trappa trappa).

No luck finding asado in this time of year due to touristic things shutting down (including campsite at Lago El Barco, completely deserted).

There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)

* '''2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, all fordings very easy, plenty of (unmarked) water except from Puesto RR 14.5km (one stream a few hundred meters afterwards last water) to shortly before Laguna El Barco. Tabanos: 2

The valley south of Trapa-Trapa is first narrow but the open ups to a wide valley with a lot of puestos, mostly inhabited, which means a lot of dogs and cows, horses, sheep around. All marked campsites are completely full of animal feces, every single decimeter is covered. I camped around -37.78551,-71.27975 on sand next to the river, sandy and stony places are the only one without extrem amounts of shit. Stayed there another day just sleeping in the tent bc of all day raining. Next camp was a nice weather camp with great views but no water at -37.89069,-71.30189. Flat spot, no shit, very quiet, some boulders and bushes.

RR out of the valley up to thea area of Laguna Liay was a bit tricky. Seems part of RR are not in use anymore and overgrown ( -37.83346,-71.2705 ). I just followed the horse tracks which later went back to RR. it seems there are different paths going up.

Lake, camp 32.9km: camping 8000, picknick 5000. But nobody at the gate, so I just walk in, swimm a little and try to open my first Araucaria seed cone I harvested an hour before. Shortly before I leave someone asks if I paid the entry. Sorry bro, not going to pay 5000 for sitting 30min on a bench, so I just don't understand spanish at all until he gives up.
Next to Laguna El Barco a wildfire puts a lot of smoke on the water, but no fire in the sky. 2 helicopters pour water on it the whole day. RR southeast of the Laguna was not affected, the fire (actually only lots of smoke) was on the other side of the valley about 1km away.

Rio Lomin had very brown-yellow water, but there are a few small clean unmarked streams further south RR.

Guallali tiny shop, no sign, just go over the little wooden bridge after the police and shortly before the school. Dog alarms child, child alarms mother. Mother opens shop. Mostly cola and chips, ice cream, some cookies, 3 packs of noodles and (worst quality) toilet paper.

Some really nice views at the waterless part, first massive amount of Araucaria trees, Laguna El Barco is kinda nice too, finally a lake with trees around! Lots of boring road walking at the beginnig and more so at the end of section with basically no traffic.

* '''2024 Feb 28 to Feb 29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Day 0: Trapa Trapa- Camp -37.76398, -71.28171

On our last day of the previous section, we hiked the first 7 km to this camp. Great bivouac spot not to be missed, next to a puesto with grass, water, horses and welcoming vegetation.

Day 1: Camp -37.76398, -71.28171 - Laguna El Barco:

Truly magnificent scenery and lots of puestos. The climb is pleasant and in the shade. As soon as you cross a river, it's easy (maximum knee-deep).
From laguna Liay to laguna el barco, NO WATER. We initially wanted to camp between the two, but were forced to push on to laguna el barco to get water. The scenery is really beautiful and easy to walk on the plateau, and the aracaunia trees give it a unique atmosphere.
Pay camping at el barco (8,000 pesos per person) with beach and friendly staff.)

Day 2: Laguna el barco - Guallali

A short day's descent. We stop at the bus stop indicated in the waypoints at 3pm. Only one bus a day from Guallali to Los Angeles at 5:30 am.
We were lucky and hitchhiked to Ralco.

* '''2024 Feb 13 to Feb 18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D, some off GPT track / Michael and Kasia '''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR: beautiful section with some very impressive araucaria forests. Technically easy but navigationally a little challenging due to so many trails branching everywhere. Laguna Liay is definitely worth visiting.

Day 1 - Feb 13

After finishing our resupply in Trappa Trappa, we started on RR. The road was fully exposed until we got up a ways into the forest. After that I had to watch the GPS fairly closely. As has been noted previously, the horse trails fork off in different directions, sometimes rejoining and sometimes not. The trail was pretty dusty, but the forest was beautiful. There was very little water access for quite awhile. We arrived at the camp point at km 7.1 with the Mapuche family. No one was at the house so we started looking around. I found Elías in another part of the property. He was very kind and said we were welcome to camp. He showed us a nice spot near a creek set away from the road. We had initially thought to camp more in the open area but he said that the road gets a lot of traffic in the night and the are some “mala gente” that pass through, so the spot he showed us was safer.

Day 2 - Feb 14

We started hiking early and the morning light on the landscape was absolutely beautiful. We stopped after the first ford, mid calf with little current, to have coffee and enjoy the area. We continued on passing a lot of puestos. Many seemed abandoned or falling apart, though there were people at several of them. We waved and they waved back, but they were fairly far from the road so we didn't go over to talk. We met our first other GPT hikers, Christof and Alex (hi guys! We hope you got the roasted chicken in Antuco!) We crossed the second ford, just under the knee, and had lunch and a nap and then started up to the pass. The path was mostly in forest, and though steep, we didn't find it difficult. We started on Var C to Laguna Liay sticking more to the OSM track than the GPT track. We got down to the lake and wanted to go all the way around to the north side, but part way up the trail started heading up to the plateau. We returned to the bottom and tried to walk in the water counterclockwise around the lake, but after only about 50 m there was a section where I was sinking deep into mud. We walked back to the south side beach and then walked the beach clockwise to get to the north side. There were a few fallen trees to climb over, but otherwise we had no issues going that way. On the north side there was a fairly sizable sand beach with a fire ring. We camped there.

Day 3 - Feb 15

We took a rest day at the lake. The atmosphere at the lake was so peaceful and the scenery was so beautiful. Not one person passed through that day, and it felt really amazing to have such a quiet, serene and beautiful place all to ourselves. It got hot during the afternoon so we retreated up into the woods a bit to get some shade. In the late afternoon I went to scout Var D for the next day. There isn't a full trail there really, but from the beach looking uphill I could see a brown stripe going up. It was a short BB to get to it and then a steep up. The trail forked after maybe 50 m. I first went left, but after a while it was all dead ends and started to lose elevation. I went back and tried the right fork with a combination BB/CC and was finally able to connect to a path. From there it was easy to get up to the plateau and then to the other marked campsite which was near a pond that had mostly evaporated for the season.

Day 4 - Feb 16

We started early to get over the pass before it got hot. We took the scouted approximate Var D up and then connected in with RR. The pass was easy and on the far side there was an incredible monkey puzzle forest. As noted there was no water. We took the OSM track up just before the descent to Laguna El Barco for the lookout. The trail down to Laguna El Barco was somewhat steep but easy to follow. At the bottom it passes through a puesto on the way to the road. The guy there also rents camping sites. The El Barco campground is somewhat chaotically managed. We arrived on a Friday and it was packed with vacationing Chilenos. Posted price was 5.000 pp for the picnic area day use and 8.000 pp for camping. They offered 6.000 pp without a table, which we took. It turns out that that is for essentially an unused parking spot next to the road. We would have left, but it was too late to go anywhere else. A very nice couple happened by as we were setting up and said they were about to leave and we could have their spot which had a table and was away from the road. We thanked them and moved up. The shop seems not to be operating this year. The small building it was in was empty and the door was just hanging open. There were two groups selling food, one at the entrance selling tortillla, a fairly large and dense bread cooked directly in the ash in the fire for 2.000 each, some smaller pan amasado, sopaipillas 500 each, a fried dessert bread dusted in powdered sugar 3 for 1.000, and churasco for 4.000. They also had sodas, 1.200 for a 591 ml bottle. The other group was at a camp just past the lower bathrooms, and two of them walked around the campground periodically as well. They had tortilla 2.000 each, sopaipillas 2 for 1.000, and some kind of tea. The second place had our favorite tortillas, we ate several of them. The churrasco was a disappointment. I was thinking Bolivian churasco which is just grilled meat. These were sandwiches with a couple thin strips of meat simmered in liquid in a frying pan and then put on huge breads with a slice of tomato, a bit of lettuce and some mayo. They were okay, but not what I had expected.

Day 5 - Feb 17

We left late and hiked RR. On the other side is another much smaller and more laid back campground. It is run by the couple that lives there. Price was 6.000 pp with a table. They had a toilet and sinks, no shower. They sold tortillas on request, 2.000 each, but the woman, Clementina, makes them when she's making their food, so it can be awhile. We bought 5 of them and they were larger than the ones in the campground. Wrapped in paper towels and kept in plastic bags, these lasted us almost 5 days.

Day 6 - Feb 18

We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-21.9]

Both Fords are easy below knee + the RR crosses a few more streams during the first 14 km. There is no water on RR after the Ford at km 14.1 until km 32.1.

Day 2: RR [21.9-32.1] + OH10-E + RR [45.1-47.5]

At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was a nice and easy section. For us, the Laguna Liay would deserve to be on RR. It was one of the most beautiful and peaceful campspot we had this season.

We also camped on the official campground at Laguna El barco. It was still 8000 CLP pp and the place was crowded with all the Chileans on holiday. The beach is nice but the campground is really dusty (as most of the section). There were also two families selling food (tortillas, sopaipillas and some other things).

By the way, there is no more snow on the plateau so take plenty of water to cover the distance between Lago El Barco and Laguna Liay.

* '''2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes'''

From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.

* '''2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian'''

After have a nice breakfast with the lovely family, i keep going south.

Km0 - km13.6 : easy walking, easy to follow.

Km13.6 : junction of RR and {10-01}.

Ford[14.1/1269] : if you are not decided go to {10-C} or visit Laguna Liay (lake), it is the last water until km33 Laguna El Barco ( or a stream just before this lake ).

Km14.47 : climb up start, the entrance is beside the corner of wooden fence.

Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.

Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.

{10-C} km0.33 : (-37.83379, -71.27817) a sandy slope steep going down, the trail to Laguna Liay (lake) is here, you can see some trail trace on the sandy slope. A little overgrown and sometimes fallen tree block your way, but mostly you can step over them. About 10min you will arrive a sandy beach (-37.83326, -71.28031) at km0.5. Not a camping spot, but here have some big trees fell in the lake, easy walking on them go to the lake for collecting better water. Good view point of Laguna Liay with Volcán Callaqui, i also saw some beautiful ducks with red brown body and blue beak swimming here!

After collecting water and a long nap, i decided back to RR, i took another trail on the sandy slope that closer to lake side (not shown on map), it is easy to follow and easy walk, lastly join RR at km16.5.

RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!

Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!

Km26.6 : left side, Volcán Copahue!

Km31.4 : pass, from dirt road to trail going down, but before going down, there is a side trail to south for climbing up a small hill, just distance 500m and climb up 70m, go for it! Excellent view point of Laguna El Barco, Volcán Callaqui, Volcán Copahue and Volcán Lonquimay( Sierra Nevada behind it?) !

X[31.2/1469] : a campground with picnic table ( i think it is a paid area because a sign at front gate but didn't see anyone when i passed there) and a stream flowing nice with clear water just before it. If you don't decide go to Laguna El Barco for collecting water, it is the only water until Guallalí.

Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.

Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).

{10-E} km10.0 rejoin RR.

RR km46.05 : look like a very old shop, I saw a sign for candy and cigarettes, but the house is broken and no people there any more.

Shop {11} [0.1/951] : No sign for shop, it is a beautiful looking wooden house, cross a tiny wooden bridge to their front gate. A little better stock than i think before, more than the shop at Trapa Trapa and almost the same as Los Álamos. Pastas, rice, some canned food, biscuits, drinks and chips. Not picky and i resupply for 3 days food here. I asked for accommodation, and the female owner said can stay in their house, 30000 CLP for a single room(4 beds) with light, quilt and electric charger, shower(cold) with shampoo, dinner and breakfast, maybe can use their washer for laundry, but finally i use my hand for washing them, because my clothes are too dusty and don't want to pollut their machine. It has a feeling look like guesthouse at some tourist routes in Nepal, but of course the one in Nepal are much commercial.

Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!

I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.

(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.

* '''2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella'''

TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people

Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.

Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…

Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!

Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.

* '''2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie'''

Note: Our path was of course convoluted. We walked the optional route 10-01 to Volcán Copahue last year. It is splendid and recommended for our option, but this time we opted for the RR, as we have not walked it previously. We came back to the area to find a new connection that would avoid almost 25 km of unpleasant roadwalking after Laguna El Barco. We suceeded, see below.

We followed the regular route to Laguna el Barco. The route and the Laguna are indeed very pleasant. We paid 1000 each to be able to pass through (?) and use the camping tables for lunch. The store was closed even on Saturday (Dec 23). About 300m from the lagoon, there is a sign about Entel coverage and 4g indeed works decently there. We then took the minor road to the hot spring under Volcan Copahue (elevation 1812, name Pucon Mahuida).

No cars seem to be using the road, especially the second part is quite eroded and after the hot spring it is bordering on impassable for cars. The hot spring is still nice. We then followed the road to an incredibly beautiful valley under Copahue. Few hundred metres before reaching Argentina, we left the road and shortly found a path that traversed into the valley in the south next to the border. The path petered out once we got above the bushes. It was really easy to reach the ridge and folow it (and the Argentinian border) to 37.9575000S, 71.1211474W. With snow all around on the slopes and with condors circling us, it was stunning (the ridge is mostly snow free). Made camp under the summit next to a 10m-high wall of ice for wind protection. There was no path but walking was easy, the ridge is rather flat and wide.

There are three options we explored from there on. The recommended one is the last one we explored, but here they follow in chronological order. Continuing on the ridge towards Cerro Dedo would require climbing or exposed traversing (if one dropped to Argentina, one could probably find a path to reconnect to GPT after Cerro Dedos if there ius no police in the area). Instead we went down side of the mountain roughly to here: 37.9650794S, 71.1206588W (it was steep but full of stones, so not slippery and we did not think it was dangerous). Then we started traversing (it did not feel exposed, but was a bit strenuous) until about here: 37.9792148S, 71.1245764W, from where we started going down a narrow ridge that was flanked by creeks on both sides. Again it was not dangerous and first half was good CC (like all the previous traverse), the second half was part cow trail (with cow poop), part bush bashing, but surprisingly easy and painless with long sleeeves.

At the bottom of the valley, we came out on a clearly visible trail. We went up it further into the valley, where there was a deserted puesto on a meadow under enormous araucaria trees with a magnificent views on snowy slopes full of huge waterfalls. We made camp.

In the evening, Tomáš then went to explore a scary looking ridge to reach this peak:
37.9767704S, 71.1623784W. It turned out not to be scary. The sidehill up the ridge is mostly without trees or bushes, so it is steep but good CC. Once up the ridge, one can go around the pinacles from the southern side (left facing up), occasionally using the tree branches as support - there is a little of easy climbing, but with no exposure. Then the ridge is steep and somewhat narrow but one can mostly go up only using poles and not hands. Altogether SAC 5. It was fun and pretty, but caution needs to apply. From the top, one could easily traverse north towards here: 37.9611427S, 71.1539942W.

The next day, we went up a ridge dividing the valley we slept in into two (this one: 37.9714484S, 71.1414231W). There is a trail up that branches off the main valley trail about 300 m downstream of the abandoned puesto. One goes up a slope for about 400m and then down to a ford and then up. There are a variety of cow trails with bamboo cut some time ago. It is partly bush bashing, but very easy and just a few hundred metres. Once up the steep slope, the trail is much clearer. Above the tree line, it is easy CC. Once you get up the main ridge, you can either go right to the peak we slept the days before (a walk up - no need to use hands, the rocky features can be easily skirted, SAC 3-4) or left to the coordinates that end the previous paragraph. From there one could go down to the valley in the north and either CC and ford (probably possible, but unceartain) or follow the road/path that is mapped in OSM (look it online, it was only added in late November) toward El Barco. Navigating this SOBO is much easier, we posted the GPX route of the most tricky part and a rough overall route painted over satellite image in the Facebook group and hopefully it will be included in the GPT next year [November 2024: it is in our suggstions together with a lot of exploratory options].

Going down the valley to reconnect to the GPT leading from Gaulali is easy 5 km on a clear trail. Once you hit car tracks (almost in the main valley) that will soon turn left, you can probably follow one of the trails going straight and save yourself maybe a 0.5 km detour to a puesto here: 38.0095590S, 71.1391237W. From the puesto, there is a very ugly road that was enlarged this year all the way to Guallali. Going NOBO, you reconnect to the trail going to Cerro Dedos very soon and thus almost entirely eclipsing the roadwalk. Plus our proposed new route is really pretty.

From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in-front-of-the-turnoff-to-the-carabinieros-station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, but ask at the station.

* '''2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans'''

Took the bus from Ralco to Trapa Trapa, start of GPT10. 2 busses a day, 4.30 and 16.30. I was at the busstop at 4.10, but the driver probably didn't expect anyone and took a shortcut and therefore didn't pass the busstop. So if you want to take that one, walk 100m further to the crossing of the main road.
16.30 no problems, plenty of people taking that bus. Total of 2.5hrs to get to Trapa Trapa.

Missing the bus gave me time to explore Ralco a bit, plenty of shops, turist information center and a Museum about the Pewenche. Small, but worth a visit (1000 CLP).

Didn't explore anything in Trapa Trapa since I wanted to cover some gound before darkness. Did see some signs of shops tho.
Easy trail, no issues here. Ended up to camp at: Camp 10 [7.1/1181]. Got woken up by some cows and horses in the morning.

Took the route (C) along the lake, also with the intention to get some extra water for the plateau. Although there was plenty at the plateau (for now), at least 5 good streams and more small ones. All because of the melting snow, so I don't know for how long that will be in the upcoming weeks.

Walk was easy, pass is easy, some snow/ice walking but all stable. You might be taking a little caution when it starts melting more but walk around the snow is also an easy option.

I camped at the plateau, almost at the end just before you walk into the greenzone again. On the right side is a flat spot next to some trees and bushes.

Next day via Laguna el Barco, some people camping there, no one at the entry so didn't had to pay anything. Easy walk again. Took option (F) and first house on the left after crossing the bridge had a sign that they sold ice cream. Stopped there, friendly people and as they told me they will sell more stuff in the future. It also looked like that, they were constructing a store, shelves, counter everything. Just no inventory yet. Unclear when they will, at least to me with my limited Spanish.

Reached Guillali easily, had a chat with the local Cabaniero. He gave me a Entell Sim-card so I could have cell service. Stayed at Romina. Bed, dinner, breakfast 30.000 CLP.

Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.

* '''2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : a little bit of snow around the pass, super easy to navigate

- Camping spot : easy to find
- River crossing : easy

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : there is a small 'negocio' in Trapa Trapa, and you can have breakfast with a really nice family at the 'lodging and food'

- Option roads : Variant C - really nice lake, just a little bit of bushbashing to rejoin the RR

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-07 to 2023-Mar-09 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

After a night in Guallali, we continued on GPT10. This section is short and awesome, definitely worth hiking!

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.

On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way.
The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered.

* '''On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked.'''
The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections).

Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).

* '''2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš'''

The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to Trapa Trapa from Los Angeles, it was long... 5+hours and it leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable, we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more.
Arrived in Trapa Trapa at ~7:30pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping (there are nicer spots just a bit further).

Day2
Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously, but there is also a nice water source earlier here: -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.

Day 3
We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although we found the path the day before, we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucarias, the trail is clear and non-bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434.
Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son: genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall-fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to this pass, although beautiful, took a long time!
At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far.
The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs.
We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.

Day4
We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road to Guallalí.

The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river (glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?), it feels like the era of the dinosaurs. The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.
Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR. From there we walked about 3 km to Guallalí.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi'''

Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01.
Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain.
We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.
The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.

* '''2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will '''

Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake.

I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route.

Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail.

Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods.

The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful.

Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.

* '''2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza. On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher '''

We started from Trapa Trapa around 11 am after finishing section 9. The first part nearly until Laguna Liay is an easy walk on dirt roads/nice paths with several water sources.
We met some pehuenche people who greated us friendly, only one man mumbled if we had a 'permiso' to pass there (we couldn't understand him very well). But then his friends told him to let us pass, he went away and we continued walking.
On the last km to Laguna Liay there is a lot of bush bashing. But it's definitely worth it, a very nice camping spot up there.
The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco.
At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica '''

Route: Trapa Trapa - Laguna Liay - Laguna El Barco - Guallalí

Two days from Trapa Trapa to Guallalí. Easy trail up the valley towards Laguna Liay. Didn't see anyone, most of the puestos appeared unoccupied. Lovely araucaria grove at the base of the big climb to Laguna Liay. The trail during the climb was overgrown/hard to distinguish in some places, and had a few areas of blowdowns too, which made the going slow during that bit.

I took Option C around Laguna Liay, which I found to be a frustrating maze of cow paths. One minute it's nice and clear and then it disappears, leaving me to bushwhack my way along until I stumble upon it again. The lake is beautiful though, and it's the last water before Laguna El Barco, so I filled up a couple litres. Met my first other GPT hikers in 3 weeks there too, they were going NOBO. Really beautiful up on the plateau of araucarias.
There was no one at Laguna El Barco when I got there around lunchtime, no one selling food either. Spent over an hour there enjoying the shady picnic tables and the beach.

Easy trails/4×4 tracks the rest of the way to Guallalí. The two NOBO GPT hikers I met yesterday got charged 10,000 pesos by some local Mapuche folks to pass through this area, but I (again) didn't meet anyone.
The shop in Guallalí is very limited. When I saw the selection, I decided to take the bus the next morning to Ralco, it leaves at 5:30 am. The shop owner was also not offering accommodation, but pointed me to the lovely araucaria grove across the street to camp. There is Entel cell service here :)

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-27 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] : the place is nice, as mentioned there are lot of bins, the camping is also very nice and the showers still very cold. They charged me $5.000 for the night. It was written "with no (something I didn't manage to read)" on the bill so if they charge you $8.000 you can try to specify you don't have car, or I don't know... They removed the panel for the grocery just after I asked for it so it's now fixed, there is no grocery. The family selling cooked food wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

- Close to GPT10-C Start there is a point of view on the whole valley, it's beautiful and you can see all the puestos

- Just after it there are many paths to go down, I haven't taken the one from the GPS but it's very easy to reach it then

- Around Puesto {10} [14.5/1297] an arriero told me there are 2 paths going down the valley, one on each side of the river, I've followed the GPT to try to reach Trapa Trapa before the night so I didn't go further about them but if someone try

- Around fords there are often a "bridge" made of one massive plank, the same arriero told me about some so they probably check each year they are usable. You just have to look for it, but it can not be the case at some points

- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met

* '''2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo '''

In one day from Trapa Trapa to Laguna Liay, camping at the north side. There are many cow trails leading down to the laguna. The one we took seemed suitable for hikers too. Going back up the next day we got lost in the cow maze though, and only by searching for our own footprints from the previous day did we get back on the RR. It may be worth having a look at our GPS tracking data to figure out our initial path.

The next day continued to Guallalí. Beatiful plateau! Got to harvest our first piñones as well! However, we hurt the araucaria tree by breaking off a small but not insignificant branch when trying to get the green "pinecone" to break off, using the "strong rope" method described in the hiker's manual. Only later we learned you should go for the brownish, "café"-colored cones. Just hit these with your walking stick and the piñones will fall right off. You then collect them from the ground. The threatened araucaria will be much happier not being hurt :)

When in need of water at the plateau, there should be a path to Laguna Totora from S 37° 54.510', W 071° 18.580', according to an arriero who passed by. Maybe a future optional route?

The optional routes 10-E and 10-G have become MR instead of TL.

The lodging at the shop in Guallalí was not avaible, but the shop owner pointed us to an araucaria grove closeby (you can enter via a wooden gate next to the escuela). We camped there: S 38° 02.647', W 071° 16.441'. There were some villagers passing by, so it seems to be public land. There's a small stream to the east with quite clear water. Maybe it's possible to camp more upstream to the north, where there are bridges and where the stream has passed fewer houses.

Continued to GPT11 immediately after.

* '''2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

Between Guallalí and Laguna el Barco is mainly gravel road, but sometimes there are small, discrete paths that connect them, so keep an eye on the GPS.
The camping at Laguna el barco is now 8000 per person. There are toilets, very cold showers and many garbage bins. There is also a family selling tortillas (bread baked in the ash) and sopaipillas, as well as some other people who come down in the evening and morning selling tortillas. There's a shop advertising ice cream, bread, sodas and other stuff, but it's closed. The people at the camping told us that it would open at 13, and then at 20, and then next day. A lady who had stayed there for a week said it had been like that the whole week, so I wouldn't count on it being open. As noted, you can ask the campground people to charge your phone. All in all, it was a nice campsite.
Shortly after, the big climb starts. You have to pass through a fence and by some houses - again keep an eye on the GPS. We were charged 1000 per person, probably wouldn't happen for people going southbound.
As warned, there was no water on the plateau until Laguna Liay. At the camp-waypoint, there is a very small lake, it doesn't look like the best drinking water, and the path directly to the lake seems very overgrown. Instead, we continued around the lake and found a decent campsite on the far side. The path around the lake is faint at best, and we ended up doing some serious scrambling down a cliff, however when we got down we found a path coming more from the right, so maybe there's a better way. The walk around is pretty, though.
After the descent, the rest is easy walking past many puestos.
In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. Very nice family, they might be away in their puesto sometimes though. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. They were building a cabaña when we were there. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. Apart from that there are two other minishops, one in each direction, which we didn't check out.

The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony '''

After finishing GPT9 I went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food.
Like already mentioned by others, remember to bring a lot of water for the following section. The plateau you climb up on after El Barco lake was very dry. Next water source with good clean water was at Laguna Liay. I was getting desperate for water, so I took variant D directly down to the laguna. The trail was very overgrown and requires some bush bashing. Frustrating amounts of mosquitos and horseflies in this part of the section, might be worth bringing some mosquito spray!

Next section towards trapa trapa was nice and easy with perfect weather and plenty of water.
Found two mini-shops in Trapa Trapa with only limited supplies. A bus to Ralco, leaves weekdays 6:00 in the morning. Therefore I spent the night in a room that a local Mapuche family were renting out. Was served a very big plate of grilled sheep meat and really enjoyed talking with the family. Later in the evening the father returned home very drunk. He was nice and talkative but I was getting at bit of a bad vibe from him, so thanked them for the food and went off to bed. Later at night I was awaken by someone vigorously trying to open the door which I thankfully locked. Rest of the family woke up and I heard a mans voice shouting something about “extranjero” and soon after the abuela kicked this guy out of the house.

Instantly thought I was gonna get robbed, but might just have been a drunk family member or the father who had forgot I was sleeping in their room. Hard to say… Apart from this I really enjoyed interacting with the locals in this region and I’ve had a lot of nice and memorable experiences.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb-02 / Incident on GPT10 at Puesto-55 Location S 37* 49‘ 31.79‘‘ / W 71* 16‘ 23.38‘‘ / Published on behalf of Trevor Mattson'''

"Sad to report that i had a very negative experience about 15km into section 10 on sunday (2/2). I was offered food and a place to camp by a very nice pehuenche lady (miriam, goes by "mila", the puesto after puesto 55 marked as "puesto, food" at the beginning of the OH route right after it splits from RR) only to have her husband come home later an try to rob me. She was extremely friendly. Although he was noticeably intoxicated, he was also nice at first as we joked, drank maté an collected firewood together. After a couple hours, as the sun was almost completely gone (~10pm), he went inside his puesto, grabbed a knife, an approached me from behind as i sat around the fire with his wife. He marched me to my tent with the knife pressed againt my neck. I allowed him to search it (he kept saying "plata, plata, plata" an his Spanish wasn't very good) which gave me the opportunity to pick up a rock an intimidate him a bit. I had a lot of money an wasn't just gonna let him take it and all of my stuff up in the mountains at night. His wife then came an tried to get between us / protect me (she was pleading him to stop). He was shoving her around, but this gave me just enough time to rip my tent out of the ground, which had all my stuff in it, an quickly drag it to the nearest puesto (~100metres). He followed me on horseback after a minute or two an the family there armed themselves with sticks an told him to f**k off.

I hiked for a few hours through the night an met an incredible family at around 1700metres on the optional route (papa named exequel). They told me that he (bernardino from "puesto, food") has robbed a "chino" (means anyone that looks even remotely asian in my latin American experiences) in the past an that "se vuelve loco" when he drinks vine. I bought more cheese from bernardino an his wife than i wanted/needed as a nice gesture an we seemed to get along, so this was reassuring that he was just crazy an it was nothing that i did to provoke him. In other words, i behave according to the manual provided by Jan an it is not at fault.
All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well.
Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"

* '''2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single.
2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.

* '''2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section was well marked/distinguished relative to all the other sections on thus far. There were many Puestos along the way as well. This was also the first section where the araucaria tree is very prevalent across the landscape. This section was my final section on the GPT and the araucaria trees and the lush green landscape provided good contrast to the semi-desert climate south of Santiago de Chile.

Difficulties:
There was a small 12km ish section without water close to the pass.

Highlights:
Change in landscape. Great views of the many volcanoes in the area.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.

* '''2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

- Nice hike with no major difficulties. The plateau with the araucarias after the pass is amazing!!!

- No river when you leave the valley toward the pass and then down to the other valley BUT, as I wanted to sleep on this plateau (25 km after the start of the section) I found a small river 300 meters on the right from the regular track and camped at this place : S37,895511° O71,308919° Wonderful sunset!!!

- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!

* '''2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 3.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. The 0.5 day we had left from arriving in Guallali we spend buying food and hitch hiking to the campground at Laguna el Barco. We did so because we expected rain soon and wanted to camp it out. Also we were not too keen for the gravel road part.

We liked: Nice araucaria trees, an amazing sunset we saw a tad south of Laguna Llai and after section 11 and 12 the easy terrain.

We did not like so much: The horsflies.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections. It took us 3.5 days via regular trail SOBO.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Trapa Trapa

- Dec 2025: new store near cemetery here: S37° 43.100, W71° 14.760 called "Molino Ralco", a well stocked supermarket. Owner's name is José, also offers meals/sopaipillas. If store is closed he offered that you could go up to the house behind the store and knock on his door. His number: +56 94220 6627

- Accommodation: The house marked "lodging, food" charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner.

- Shopping: Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. There is a panel just before the street going to the grocery indicating that the mini-market is 100m away. There are two other minishops.

- Bus: The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

*Guallalí
Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with dinner and breakfast for 20000 CLP.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*Laguna El Barco :
Updated Mar 22

-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus Guallali - Ralco - Santa Barbara - Los Angeles 05:30

Updated January 2022:
Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

Updated February 2025:
Bus from Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa to Los Angeles: 
- at 5:30 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 14:00 on Sunday
Bus from Los Angeles to Butalelbún/Trapa Trapa: 
- at 14:00 am from Monday to Saturday 
- at 19:15 on Sunday

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108664113.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603529.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603527.jpg|thumb|Araucarias at GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603530.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603538.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_1086641189.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

GPT11 (Cerro Dedos)

2025-12-31T10:04:03Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
== Connecting to Section 12 ==
<div style="overflow: hidden">
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.
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=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- GPT11 Option 5 (Lonquimay): The area around Cerro Dedos is demanding. Hikers that feel uncomfortable when scrambling should therefore consider Option 5.

- Regular Route and updated GPT11 Option 1 (Ladera Oeste Cerro Dedos): As the map above indicates (Thanks Tomas!), none of these routes is easy walking. Based on feedbacks from hikers I removed particular difficult options and several investigation suggestions that turned out unfeasible. So some of the descriptions from other hikers from past seasons are not conclusive when using the 2025 GPT Track Files as reference.

- GPT11 Option 1D (Ladera Oeste Cerro Dedos): This new investigation suggestion is based on animal tracks that are visible on satellite images. It would be worthwhile if an experienced hikers investigates this route in good weather.

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.14.12 to 2025.15.12 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR + ‘Opt.1D’ + Var.D / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in days total. 2 days for the Section 10. <1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12.

(Continued from Section 10)

In the late afternoon of day two we joined the GPT11 RR via Option 1C (GPT10) just before Ford {11} [15.7/1142] (Estero Coliqueo).

The trail continued a bit bushy and overgrown in places and and of course our nemeses - cows were lurking around and we had to sneak around, through the bushes to avoid them once again.
We camped near Camp {11} [21.2/1349], nice sheltered spot with some cow poop around and a pile of planks from some structure that has been disassembled, good for making seating.

Day 3 - Still cold and miserable, more cold and overcast than the day before and we even had some light drizzle in the morning.

While planning this section I wanted to try the Option 4 (Cumbre Cerro Dedos). From the ridge walk on Argentinian boarder the previous day I could see the Opt. 4 ridge clearly and it seemed possible but I could also see that there was still a lot of snow on the ridge and the summit starting from around 2350m. And since it was definitely not the weather for a high ridge walk we remained on the RR.

The upset cow theme continued the same as the morning before, luckily this time we were not charged at. However a few groups that we had to pass all still seemed very apprehensive of us being there. So once again we just tried our best to keep distance and walked around them CC and BB.
Getting to the Pass {11} [27.5/2176] was no problem other than it was very cold.
The first part going down from the pass was easy and straightforward and we used the snowy gully to glissade down quickly instead of walking over the loose rocky terrain.
Once we got lower down we spotted a very well walked trail across the stream going up into the bushes over here: -38.10139, -71.08903 so we decided to investigate a bit. For about 200m it was an excellent well maintained (you could see branches were cut by a saw) trail that lead out onto a meadow here: -38.10289, -71.08809 we then followed the meadow down and saw signs of a trail at the bottom of it but then it sort of ended. There was a junction of two gullies meeting -38.10499, -71.08771 and it seemed that the way going up eastwards was more traveled so we followed that. The west bank of the gully going down was definitely not possible but that’s the only one we could see, perhaps if we would have gone further down on the east side of it there might have been a way. Perhaps worth investigating if it helps to bypass the “canyon” part that we ourselves didn’t actually see.
At the gully junction we went up eastwards and pretty much contoured around all the bushes until we rejoined on option 1D at around 1750m elevation mark. Some parts of this little adventure were very steep and we definitely didn’t gain anything going this way, if anything we wasted some daylight. But it seemed that there was a potential, perhaps we just chose the wrong way at the gully junction.
So we followed a variation of 1D back to RR which was then just following the streambed until the gpx went out of it and some trail appeared. (I managed to keep my shoes dry on this whole ordeal)

We took the Variant D to look at the termas - Hot Spring ? {11-D} [0.3/1428] and had our lunch there. There were 3 nice looking pools but unfortunately a bit shallow and would require some excavation work. One of them was just about deep enough to sit in but not quite.

We were already a bit tired by that point the cold weather had taken more of our resource than we had anticipated. But during the lunch break the weather seemed to be improving a bit and according to Garmin forecast it finally promised some warm and sunny conditions for the next day. That gave us enough encouragement to keep going over the next pass and high ground of Cerro Dedos. Right after the lunch we joined the GPT12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637.

(Continued in Section 12)

Since we didn’t go to Guallalí or Carabineros Ranquil this section was very short for us.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 14th 2025 – Dec 16th 2025/ 2.5 days (including 1 rest day) / NOBO / RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa, 15 days total on the trail.

Day 1: after descending from Banos de Pelehue on GPT 12 RR we continued on GPT 11 RR without going to Ránquil. The CC up the pass was tough on the endurance but not very technical. We could keep our feet dry but had to do a couple of bigger moves in the lower part of the valley. We camped at Camp 11 [22.6/1461].

Day 2: rest day. We added a little fire pit to the campsite, hope it will serve you to cook some pinones!

Day 3: we continued on the RR and had planned to camp at the hot springs 11 [6.6/991] and make it to Guallalí early the next day. But the spot just wasn’t nice: the hot springs were hot but very dirty with more cow poop than water in them as mentioned before and campsite was full with cows. Since it was still early afternoon we decided to hike straight to Guallalí. At the shop 11 [0.1/951] we had to wait and yell a bit until a neighbor heard us and presumably texted Petro and Romira that we were looking for them. Petro came first and we could rest up with an ice cream in our hands. We stayed with them for the afternoon and Romira prepared a delicious and big dinner for 10k cp (stew with codero, salad, sopaipilla, little buns). We could kindly charge our electronics and also stocked up on food. They didn’t have all we asked for (no rice, no flour, no lentils) but they gave what they could out of their own supplies. What kindness!

Just as a side note here: they told us we were the first mochileros this season, probably why the stock was low in the shop. Petro questioned us about what we were eating on the trail and made a list. He said he would also be in contact with Jan. Hopefully our information will help you with the resupply!

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-04-7 to 2025-04-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / 02, 04, 02B, 01C, 01, RR, 06, 06B, 04B, 06, RR / Peggy

Day 1: continuation of section 12 via the Cerros Dedos. To reach the Baños de Pelehue, I went through 02, 04, and 02B. Beautiful! The views are incredible, especially on the Argentinian side. Cerros Dedos is easy to hike. I left my pack at the pass km5.4 and picked it up again to descend to the baños. That evening, I got caught off guard by the time change. My phone had automatically switched to the new time (one hour earlier), and I only realized it when night started to fall around 6:30 pm instead of 7:30 pm…
That night, I experimented with using dried cow dung for the fire. I managed to get hot water, but I still need to improve… I found the hot spring basin in the night, searching for hot water for my hot water bottle (even though the dung fire works, it’s quite slow and doesn’t warm like a wood fire, at least the way I did it for a first try). I found boiling water for my hot water bottle, but the water in the basin is much too lukewarm for me to bathe in at this time of year.

Day 2: even though I had decided to continue via the RR, my steps led me onto the 01 (starting with C and D). I had studied the map, it seems, the night before, but luckily I didn’t understand it because in the end it went well. At one point, around the trailhead? Km3.5, I had some doubt—there’s a short, slippery, semi-scrambling section. I didn’t feel comfortable and was afraid it would be like that the whole time. I first thought about turning back and descending via the 01, but rereading reports on the wiki, I found the one from Mathias from Austria, who (I think) is the only one to mention this part, and it gave me the confidence to keep going, slowly. The weather was good and it was still early.
In the end, I passed just above the small section that had bothered me (even though I had already done it both ways!). The rest is doable, sometimes physically demanding, but I didn’t encounter the difficulties I had expected. There’s a whole section that climbs up through a stream bed that goes well. The last part on the ridge isn’t hard if you like ridges. Slept at km25.1, a bit up high, sheltered by trees from wind and river humidity.

Day 3: I made a mistake and didn’t cross at the ford km18. I only realized later, and crossed where it seemed possible. There’s a path on that side of the river that is fairly easy to follow, but since I didn’t follow it all the way, I’m not sure if it’s reliable.
Wanting to rejoin the 06, I followed what Manon, Robin, and Thomas did and bushwhacked via CC from the ford at km15.7. At a certain point (38.014041S, 071.138786W), I joined a trail that led me to the 06. I camped here (-37.978400, -71.141083), an old dilapidated puesto, lovely little river, beautiful spot (seen in the report by Manon, Robin, and Thomas).

Day 4: my initial plan was to link sections 11 and 10 by reaching Volcán Copahue via the ridges following the same route as Manon, Robin, and Thomas using the new itineraries proposed by Tomáš and Natalie (06 and 03), but rain (and thus snow) was forecast for the next day, so I didn’t want to risk being up there.
My second plan was to go up via 06B along the ridges and descend via 04A toward Laguna el Barco and then down to Guallali to wait out the bad weather. So I started with 06B, which is a beautiful climb, manageable in the morning and at your own pace.
However, the first part of the ridge is quite challenging: physically demanding and exposed. I loved it but it was quite exhausting. I felt that after more than 3 months of hiking, my legs were strong enough to lift my body and big pack, but I also felt the fatigue from those 3 months and from the 10 days without coming down. In short, I loved it, but it’s the hardest thing I’ve done on this trail this season.
Stay on the ridge to avoid, like I did, having to climb back up the steep, unstable slope full of thorny plants! I posted some photos from the other side on FB to give a preview. Awesome for climbers, others: skip it!
So, at the end of this section, I revised my plans: considering my fatigue, the time it took to climb (2.5 hours I think?), the planned descent via EXP-I (04A), the season (night and cold come earlier), and the bad weather expected the next day, I chose to change my route and not do that option. A bit regretfully, but knowing it was the only wise choice.
But clearly, I want to come back and do the whole ridge loop. Another season maybe, with a bit more vitality. This place is very attractive. And also to do Copahue, which I skipped due to weather. Definitely a place to return to. Thank you Tomáš and Natalie for these options! And Jan siempre!
So eventually, I wanted to go through part of 04A and 04C on the ridges before descending via 06 (and pass by the place I had slept after eliminating 04 because I still thought I had time to reach the hot springs at km6.6!), but my body’s fatigue decided otherwise.
I descended via 04B, easy, you quickly find a trail. Then the descent via 06 in TL and BB, which I found sometimes a bit difficult or at least not easy, occasionally losing the trail and fighting with bamboo. The part before the river crossing is a bit tricky because it’s steep and often overgrown. Especially if, like me, you’re foolish enough to want to go fast!
On the descent via 06, you pass by the puesto of Jimena and Javier, a lovely young couple. Watch out for the dog guarding the goats! They offered me bread and coffee, and a thermos of hot water to take with me. Perfect, as it was already late.
I couldn’t reach the hot springs or Guallali, but I found a good campsite, hidden from the road and sheltered from the wind. Too late to make a fire (I don’t have gas) but I had a thermos of hot water and some bread. Thank you Jimena and Javier. Thank you, Life!

Day 5: arrival in Guallali at Romina’s place. The updated price for the 2024–2025 season is 40k for 3 meals and a night with hot water and access to a washing machine. If you arrive in the evening and leave early in the morning, it will be less because there won’t be lunch included.
Wonderful family. A big heartwarming connection with Romina and her bond with animals. A great opportunity for me to come back to this family and hike the ridges again.

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. Normally, they require several hours to cook (at this time of year because they’re already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire in the morning, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least on most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling.
A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*'''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-05 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Chloe and Mathieu

After section 12, we went straight for the GPT without going to Ranquil.

Day 1: we climbed the pass[27.6/1974] and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route. We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 2: we went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

*'''2025-02-18 / 1 day / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Banos Pelehue, Natalie&Tomas option 6 to connect GPT10 on the border ridge / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

After sandy and borring GPT12 south part, we were looking for path to avoid valley floor minor road & puestos and we found just in time Natalie&Tomas report and tracks about the new border ridge option to connect sections 10 and 11 (thanks!). We followed the route NOBO until Ford 15.7 where we cut CC to join ascending MR at about -38.012762, -71.141337. We followed MR and good TL to easily reach abandonned puesto at -37.978400, -71.141083 where we spent night (very good camp spot : peasible, water pool, beautiful araucarias with pinones supply).
Next morning we climbed the ridge dividing the valley in into two following Natalie&Tomas tracks to the north (> GPT 10 logs).

*'''2025-01-31 to 2025-02-02 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: Easy MR to 14 km. Here I have met 3 arrieros. Rivers easy for me (1.64 km). Camp at 21.6 km

Day2: Till pass at 27.6 trail easy. Only a little BB between 16 and 17 km. Descending of 3.3 km tricky. And the beginnig there is no snow. Then I chose combination of snow and river. Water cold and strong wind. Camp at 29km at a little moody place.

Day3: Continued descending river. Still cold. After joining trail at 30.8 really easy. I talked to carabineros, but there was no obligación to registratión. I followed Ana’s house in Ranquil at km 14.3 of variant F. I talked to her. Now she has proteínas and gas. Finally, one family took me to their house in Lonquimay.

*''' 2025-Jan-26 to 2025-Jan-28 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Highlights: Stunning views on the ascent to and the pass itself.

Challenges: Physically exhausting and dangerous descent on steep, loose terrain. Clambering in and around the river end the gorge on the descent.

Day 1

Started in the evening at the shop in Guallalí and camped at the Hot Springs at [6.6/991].

Day 2

Took a warm bath in the hot spring. There was still a little bit left of the cow manure mentioned in previous logs, but I just washed myself right afterwards in the river. The hot spring had a perfect hot bath temperature.

Met lots of cow herds with calves and overprotective fathers: massive bulls that clearly signal you their willingness to defend their kin if you get too close. Walking detours to keep distance as described in the manual worked well.

Camped close to [21.2/1349].

Day 3

Continued the ascent. It got pretty steep but the ways were good. The CC part uphill is also easy to walk. The views on the pass are breathtaking. Took a long food and coffee break there.

As expected after doing my research here and in the manual, I found the first couple of hundred meters of the CC descent after the pass quite challenging. It was still safe to slide down the snow field for the first hundred meters or so, but doing it this time of the year or later, choose your route and your exit point wisely. I took a snow bridge I could see from atop and hints for possible other snow bridges (water entering the snow field from the side) into consideration and only slid down the first hundred meters or so. From there on downwards, the gorge was full of snow which was unsafe to walk or slide, so I had to walk on the steep scree around it. This is the kind of terrain where you’ll want to check your hiking poles and shoelaces before. It’s still safe to walk down, but only if you choose your route carefully and walk with full focus. As soon as the snow was gone I continued my descent in the gorge right next to the river, which was easy. Then a long way clambering around the river and crossing it countless times. Again very exhausting and partly dangerous.

Once the CC part is over the path follows a an horse track that’s comfortable to walk. The last 6 km or so are a MR with almost no inclination.

Arrived at the carabineros around sunset. Ricardo, the police chief, offered me to camp on their property and to use their kitchen. Had a very nice conversation over dinner with him.

The next morning I took the bus to Lonquimay, which came over an hour later that the carabineros had told me (7 instead of 5:45).

* '''2025-JAN-10 to 2025-JAN-11 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
The designated camp {11} [26.1/1957] has a swamp nearby with significant mosquito activity. I camped about 70 meters higher at S38° 05.114' W71° 05.379', which provided better conditions.

* ''' 2024-DEC-25 > 26 / 1 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : Sentier dans le torrent

Le Rio Chaviquin n'est pas tres large mais il est assez profond. En fin de journée le debit etait élevé et l'eau trouble, difficile de voir le fond.
Le sentier n'est pas toujours facile a suivre mais le terrain est degagé.
La premiere partie de la descente etait facile car couverte de neige. Impossible si neige glacée. Par contre après il faut suivre le torrent comme on peut. C'est dangereux surtout si grosse fonte ou pluie.

*'''2024-DEC-24 to 2024-DEC-25 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short section featuring river crossings, Araucaria forests, and stunning views as you ascend to the pass. From Guallalí to the ford [14.3/1100], follow the MR instead of the TL as indicated in the track files. The hot springs [6.6/991] are in the middle of a pasture and unfortunately were full of cow manure, so there was no Christmas bath. The ford at [10.6/1059] could be crossed with dry feet. The ford at [24.3/1688] could also be bypassed a few meters upstream by jumping from stone to stone, again keeping feet dry. Other fords were crossed in the usual manner.

The ascent to the highest point of this section was steep but comfortable. We spent the night on the left bank of a creek at Camp [26.1/1967] under the final elevation to the pass. It's a beautiful spot with a great view.

On the second day, we climbed into the pass [27.6/1974]. The southern side still had significant snow, but the slope was not too steep, and the surface was smooth, allowing for a safe slide down 420 vertical meters to where the snow ended.

The next part followed a riverbed bordered by steep slopes. For a while, we hopped back and forth between the banks before deciding to wade through the stream. We rejoined the TL, which transitioned into MR near approximately (-38.1333167, -71.0920333), even though it’s still marked as TL in the track files.

From the police station [38.8/1194], we continued along OH-05F. We tried hitchhiking, but the first car was heading in the opposite direction. The family in the car was on their way to a Christmas barbecue. The driver, who owns a small shop in Ranquil, showed incredible trust by giving us the keys to his house so we could wait there until he returned. So we decided to walk the 13 km along MR.

Once we arrived, Maximiliano and his wife Ana welcomed us warmly. They provided us with a shower, a bed, laundry service, and cooked us dinner and breakfast. They also allowed us to restock our supplies at their shop, which they try to keep stocked with items suitable for hikers. The shop is located here: (-38.2499555, -71.2323042).

The next day, they drove us back to the police station [38.8/1194], where we continued at GPT12. For all these services for two hungry hikers, they charged 35,000 CLP.

Maximiliano and Ana have hosted several GPT hikers before and are making an effort to support the hiking community in this remote area. Their kindness and hospitality were truly remarkable! Ana's phone number: +56984926867

*'''2024-Dec-14 to 2024-Dec-15 / 2 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant C / Sean & Neele'''

Pass 27.6km - snow from 1,700m to the pass on the south side. North side just has a few patches. Following RR worked for us.

Ford 18km - crossed around 6pm was waist deep (1.61m tall) and strong but manageable.

We accidentally took variant C - we were pleased about this as the RR looked very boggy. Bridge? 11-C 0.3 doesn't seem to exist though.

From about 14km to 0km is dirt road, a bit boring but also very fast.

Water everywhere.

In Guallali we stayed at Shop 11 0.1 - 30k pp for a bed, lunch, dinner and breakfast. They also sell a few basics; pastas, ramen, tuna, cookies, toilet paper.

* '''24-12-13 - 24-12-14/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''

From the valley of the cows to the canyon of the lezards
I started a Guallali a 7 a.m. for the long MR (indicated as TL) walk into the valley of the cows - they were everywhere. Met 6 arrieros at different places. All indicated water reliable, fords no major problem. Camped some 500 m before the last indicated spot before the pass, great view there.
Day 2: started at 7 p.m. and arrived at 9 at the pass. By then, the snow on the southern side had just begun to become a bit softer on the surface. An hour earlier you need crampons to get down, now I could move very quick.
The second part of the CC section is not difficult if you stay in the river bed. I crossed the river like ten times, when I saw a path (also on OSM) on the left. I tried to get there, but this was a mistake. Just 20 meters, but very steep rubble. It was at that moment, when I probably looked very silly trying to get up this slope, when 2 gpt hikers passed by. I got back down to them, after a short gpt-small-talk they continued NOBO and I SOBO, now staying in the river bed. Arrived at Ranquil at 2. p.m. I had combined sections 08-11 and really ran out of food after the deplorable resupply situation in Trapa Trapa and Guallali. But nobody at the police station in Ranquil and an arriero told me, that buses go only on mondays, wednesdays and fridays. But that in 30 min an animal transporter will arrive. So it was, only that the driver’s cabin was full and the mochilero had to join the cows. 1,5 hours later the cattle and I arrived in Lonquimay.

* '''6Dec2024 - 9dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR / 3 days / Clara'''

Beautiful landscapes all along the way up and down.

Ford at 15 : went few meters upstream, not upper than knee.
Ford at 18 : cross at the exact point where RR arrive. Water until mid thighs (I'm 1,57) Not strong current even in afternoon.

Navigation : path is less clear between 16-17 with vegetation a bit overgrown. Same between 22-23.

Snow : going up to the pass 27 was absolutely not a problem, some patches of snow at the end but easy to cross.
I didn't know at this time if I could go to the over side of the pass and I was prepared to maybe backtrack since it snowed few days before. But arriving there, saw that it could be manageable passing upper to the track on the left side, where the snow is way more thin and you can see ground between patches of snow. Still was a bit steep to traverse like this and I think it could be harder in the opposite way (physically and navigation to avoid dangerous places).
Careful when joining the river down, the snow melt because of the water so sometimes there is only a thin layer that could break if crossing there + difficult to see when arriving from up.
Descending the river after the pass was harder for me. Lots of river crossing, easy at the begining but more and more demanding as the current went harder. Careful when going up because it could lead to really steep face to go down to the river, better stay in the riverbed most of the time. At the end, any crossing was upper than the knee except last one that was mid thigs but I think it's possible to do better.
Then you go back to the trail and it's really easy.

Water : a lot.

Camp : 6.6 (the hotspring seems more used by cows by than humans but still a good place to camp). 21.6 nice.
32 : at the point hot spring. Easy to find from RR, multiple paths.
Hot spring 32 : should be around 40° degrees, just perfect for the used hiking feet.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-17 // 1 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel'''

After the baños of oelehue, it was a bit like a mess for me aha, I just switched from RR, to option 1, 3 and finally reach the pass with the option 2. That was pure CC, on a volcanic plateau and I just follow my instinct more than a GPX file, than I reached horse track from option 2 and continude on it until joining the RR.

On the descent you just find again a animal track that looks so easy to follow after all this CC. You go easily Ans smoothly down, following the valley and finally found a jeep path for the last 15km.

Then you hit the road until arriving to the tiny tiny guallalli. I knew it's gonna be tricky to ressuply there, but I kind of gambled and needed some food from this place.

There 5 houses so it's not hard to have the information. I enter in like a private property parrallele to the escuela. There, I met Pedro, that escorted me to the "mini-tiny-micro shop", just a door ahead.

When I passed there, he had biscuits, chips, lot of sodas, pasta, tomato sauce, tuna, and most important : Dulce de leche !

I was quite happy about that ! I continued my way a bit further and found a place to camp in the bush.

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-26 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR, Options 02, 04, 02B, 01 / Fangwen + Tobi'''

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for tips on cooking pinones

Worth the short detour up to Cerro Dados. A flock (?) of condors make their home on the rock spires, amazing to see them flying up close.

Initially, we intended on taking the gully scramble route (option 01), but quickly realized this would be a lot slower. We took the CC way (option 01 as well?) down instead, which was very steep and inconsistently rocky/loose, making slow progress. We conclude that probably the RR would be the fastest of all, despite the extra elevation loss.

There's a great swimming hole around KM25 (?) as the stream turns into a gorge below the burnt down forest.

* '''2024-Mar-11 to 2024-Mar-13 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR A 01 01B 01C 01D 02 (only the ridge part southeast of pass 11-04 5.4km) 02B 04/ Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, however at X26.8km last water for a while (not far in distance but time consuming terrain). No Tabanos, all fordings very easy.

Hot Spring 6.6km. Some cowshit next to it and shallow water, but still nice almost hot water and with the cold river next to it to clean and bath. Campside is full of shit, I put my tent in the sand right next to the firepit, there is also a table!
Camp 25.1 and 26.1 very windy and hardly any protection. At 25.1 I followed the stream up a bit until its only bushes on both sides. Shortly before there is a big bush with a one tent flat spot next to it almost directly at the stream. I cleaned this spot from the shit, it is a bit protected but was still very windy.

RR route around Puesto 10km seems not accurate anymore. The road goes between RR and A and then turns to and follows A.

Around -38.01624,-71.15993 dont follow the road, check GPS for RR along the river. After ford 14.3 it can get quite swampy for a few hundred meters.

Beginning of section is a lot of boring walk on very dusty road.
I loved 01, that CC was demanding and time consuming navigation in steep terrain, but a lot of fun. Most of RR was easy hiking in the sections before, so this was welcome difference. The clambering on the ridge is short and not hard (difficult level UIAA 1) but lots of lose rocks, so need to be careful. Some clambering in gullys, it often looked harder from above as it then actually was. Still you need to be really careful and it's going slowly. Very strong and cold winds. First water NOBO at -38,10299,-71.07628. It rained the night before, so I waited until noon, giving wind and sun time to dry the area, as I would only recommend 01 in good weather conditions!

There is no hotspring at 11-01C 1.7km. The spring is at 11-02B 1.2km. It is warm and with an amazing view, but quite shallow and muddy, still nice to sit in. A small narrow stream of clean cold water nearby but no pool.
I camped next to the spring, there is a stonewalled campside, but no other protection. Next day I went up to Cerro Dedos and hiked the ridge to the southeast. Well worth it, but the winds were very strong and cold. Shortly before the peak of Dedos it is easy walking, the last few meters is light climbing. There are 2 peaks, the higher one is a bit harder and very exposed on top, the lower one is easier and has plenty of flat space and a stoneguy on it. Coming from the east first you will see only the higher peak, but you can easily hike around it.

* '''2024 Feb 19 to Feb 26 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 5A, Opt 5B, Opt 5, detour to Laguna Blanca / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR : with easy navigation, a well maintained trail, and impressive views, Opt 5 is both a relaxing and impressive route. Comunidad Chenqenco has a good store for resupply. Fundo Guindo charges people to pass through if they are around, but they may not be. Laguna Blanca is apparently a private lake, and while it is possible to camp there, there are complications.

Day 0 - Feb 18

We arrived in Comunidad Chenqueco around 19:30. There was one hospedaje in Chenqueco, but it was full. I talked to Luis who runs a small shop next to the big shop and he said there was camping about 2 km on down by the river. We headed down towards the driving bridge. Just before it there was a fence and a gate that was dummy locked. We went through the gate and found a spot a little ways in. There was no river access, and that specific river is not a good quality for drinking or filtering in any case, but there was a small stream cutting across the path that had clear water.

Day 1 - Feb 19

We stayed in the same place we camped the night before and walked up to the shop in town to resupply. It was a well stocked store with quite a few options and easy for us to do a good resupply there. Prices were very reasonable. They had instant coffee (Gold, our favorite!), pasta, instant noodles (only in the cups), powdered sauces/cremas and bouillon cubes, crackers, cookies, eggs, canned fish and canned paté, powdered milk, 8 flavors of Zuko, a few types of packaged cheeses, queso crema, peanuts (no other nuts and no raisins though), and even apples, onions, carrots, tomatoes, and cucumbers. They did not have camping gas but they said sometimes they do have it in stock. We also chatted with them about the toma at Fundó Guindo across the river. The owner, Juan, said there was no issue to pass, we would just need to pay at the gate.
We went back to camp to repack the food. Later two people came by. It turned out that we were camping on private property and the woman was the granddaughter of the owner. We talked to them for a bit and she said that it was okay if we stayed and just asked that we be careful to take all our trash and not start a fire. I asked who could someone in the future go to in order to request permission and she said her father, Jose Luis Benítez. He lives in a house at (-38.06389, -71.35347). If you are walking the main road toward the driving bridge there is a road that goes off to the right down to the school, a large building at the end of that street and easy to spot. Start down that street and his house is the first gate on the left hand side. They also told us that if you keep going across the river on the driving bridge and then go right over the hill and down a path, you can get to a public access beach with a good pozo for swimming in the other river (-38.06677, -71.34947). That may also have been the place Luis was thinking of when he told me about the camping 2 km on.

Day 2 - Feb 20th

We left early and took Opt 5B to connect with Opt 5A down to a new looking metal footbridge. (This is a better option as staying on 5A requires jumping a barbed wire fence but 5B goes around it). We followed the most used looking path. The whole path was a dirt road, but in good condition and half shaded in the forest. We passed through Fundo Guindo (I think, there were never any signs). We did not see anyone the whole time, only a few cows. Most of the puestos along the way were padlocked shut on the outside or falling down. We arrived at an intersection with a sign for Lonquimay going up the hill. We never came to a gate. I think the gate is actually back on Opt 5 about 240 m before 5A connects into it based on other reports and a gate icon on Gaia. It was almost entirely silent the whole way up to the pass. We didn't see anyone until the bridge over the embalsa.

Once we got past the bridge, the road had barbed wire fencing on both sides nearly the entire way. It was very challenging to find camping. We found one spot with water and another without, but we wanted to make some distance so we kept going. It started to get dark and we ended up climbing under the fence of Fundo Lolco just after the sign, going across a small field and camping on the far side just out of sight of the road. There was a creek running below.

Day 3 - Feb 21st

We packed up and got back on the road just before sunrise. Where the road crossed the estero it was fenced on both sides, but the lower side was secured with just two pieces of barbed wire twisted around each other. We undid the wire and sat by the water to have coffee and filter water, then closed the fence on the way out. The entire road runs through Fundo Lolco until you reach RN Nalcas. We saw only two spots where one could reasonably camp along the way without trespassing. Both were right on the side of the road, but the road seems to get very little use.

When we got to the reserva the guardaparque told us that the reserva was closed as a preventative measure due to the first fires. We told him we had read online that it had reopened and that we had been walking for days to reach the reserva and he finally said it was okay for us to go, just not to have any fires. We did not have to pay and he did not register us. We camped a little ways past the guardaparque residence.

Day 4 - Feb 22nd

The trail was easy to follow and well maintained. The first few km have a barbed wire fence running along one side of the path with takes away from the beauty a bit, but it ends eventually. The forest was amazing and we had the luck to have an almost completely overcast day, so a slow walk through everything was very pleasant. It was a bit difficult to find camping as much of the trail is on a slope and there is a 4 km section with no water. We camped at (-38.28562, -71.56485). Water was 300 m back down the trail just after the gate.

Day 5 - Feb 23rd

We woke up to an absolutely beautiful view of sunrise hitting a cloudless Volcan Tolhuaca in the morning, and to our tent frozen stiff in the night. It was our first frost of the season. We found the trail up easy to follow and not particularly demanding. There were several springs cutting across the path so water was not an issue. We had a consistent view of Volcan Tolhuaca for the first few hours with Volcan Callaqui rising up behind us just before the turn, then Volcan Lonquimay after the turn. The entire route is very scenic and beautiful. It was a cloudless, windless day, but there was a slight cool in the air, so very comfortable hiking weather.

We took a detour down towards Laguna Blanca. The views on the way down are absolutely spectacular, especially in the afternoon. It looks like something out of a fantasy movie or an illustration of the dinosaur era. The forest on the way there is also beautiful.
This is where the problems started. Since this is a longer story and not actually on the GPT route, I'll put the full account at the end of the report for those interested, but the short version is that a very irritable and inhospitable Swiss German woman named Beatrice claims ownership of the entire lake and surrounding area, and if you are not entering via the “normal way” as she referred to it, meaning through her lodge, she gets very, very, very angry.

Day 6 - Feb 23rd

We spent the morning talking with the guardaparque at Laguna Blanca and exploring the park, then headed back to a spot we had scouted the day before (-38.35580, -71.61209). It was an amazing camping spot at the bottom of the road down from Volcan Lonquimay inside a ring of oak trees. There was a small stream about 40 m up the hill that had good clean water. It was very peaceful with views of the whole valley and probably one of our favorite campsites so far.

Day 7 - Feb 24th

We took a rest day in the same spot. It was very quiet most of the day. We observed some small burrowing mammal, a ground hog or gopher, digging holes. In the afternoon a car drove past on the way to Laguna Verde and returned about 2 hours later, and towards sunset a group of dirt bikers passed through. Other than that we were alone and it was very relaxing.

Day 8 - Feb 25th

We got an early start going around the volcano. In a few places we went cross country. It shaved off some distance, but the volcanic rock was challenging to walk on so I think there wasn't much of a time savings. We walked out of the reserva after closing time so we did not have any interactions with CONAF on that end. There was one hostal on the way down the hill, 10.000 pp with a kitchen. It is above a ski gear shop shortly after leaving the reserva. We hitched a ride with a very nice Mapuche couple all the way to Lonquimay. If walking, there was camping around (-38.44185, -71.51361) next to the river. The road up had some beautiful views and I was glad to have seen it, but also grateful to not have to walk it as it was very dusty. There were several people selling tortillas, sopaipillas and cooked piñones along the way. In Lonquimay we stayed at Hostal Rusitko Lonquimay a half block from the square, 35.000 for a private room with private bathroom and hot water. The owner, Hector, was very friendly and helpful. If looking for something cheaper there was another Hostería Follil Pewenche next to the AhorraMás grocery store, 10.000 pp for a bed in a dorm, shared bathroom.

After resupplying we continued to section 12

Laguna Blanca detailed account: We walked down the road to the lake. There is no water starting from (-38.35578, -71.61120) on. We arrived at a locked gate with walking passages on either side and 4 signs on 1 wooden board. The uppermost is a wood sign that says “Area Silvestre Protegía” and looks like something in a park. The second is a fairly lengthy laminated paper sign in good condition that says it is private property and there is access with paid ticket, and to go 500 m on to meet their personnel for more information and to pay if you didn't already in the lodge, along with icons for swimming, fishing, canoeing, etc. Below that was another laminated paper sign that was badly water stained and looked old saying “Advertencia Propiedad privada con vigilancia continual No entrar! Solamente autorizados”, and finally a third laminated sign indicating no cars and no motorcycles. We took this to mean, I think understandably, that people can enter, but it is paid. The human sized gaps on either side of the gate looked like they were designed to let hikers through while preventing the cars and motorcycles that were prohibited as per the sign. We walked to reception, passing along the way a few hand painted wood signs for native animals and one with the elements. At the reception area there was a large carved wooden sign with the trails to three beaches and a CONAF insignia at the bottom. There were a few smaller signs, one saying Laguna Blanca Zona Protegía and claiming UNESCO status (it is not), another showing the horario (something not shown at the entrance a half km back), another saying to announce your arrival and departure with the guardaparque, another warning to disinfect fishing gear due to didymo, and another pointing to a cabin indicating reception. There was also a badly water stained paper sign saying no fishing, no hunting and no collecting fruit. The cabin had a window and a sign for a kiosco and there was also an unnecessary wooden sign near the cabin indicating again kiosco. There was also a bathroom with men's and women's signs attached to the respective doors. (There is a reason for the exhaustive detail I am providing here). We called out buenas tardes and a boy, probably around 12 years old came to the window. We asked him about camping and he asked about a ticket. We said we wanted to buy a ticket and he said if we didn't have one that we had entered illegally. We were confused about this, but assumed it was just a misunderstanding on his part. We explained that we came from the gate and were looking for a camping spot and asked how much. He said it was 8.000 pp, but he couldn't take money. No one else was around because his parents had gone to get food. On the door to the cabin was a sign in Spanish, English and German saying if no one was there, they were working elsewhere on the property and to go to one of the beaches and they would find you later. We told him our names and which countries we were from. He told us which beach was best for camping and we told him we would come back in the morning to pay and register, because at this point it was around 20:30. He said okay and we headed to the beach. The trail down was nearly a kilometer even though it could have been less than half that. We set up the tent and started dinner. At the beach there was a sign saying catch and release fishing. About an hour later the guardaparque canning running down to the beach shouting that we were on private property and we had entered illegally. He was very worked up, but we explained our situation and he calmed down. He had a walkie talkie with him that kept interrupting with two other people on the other end. We managed to explain where we were coming from and that Matias had mentioned the place on Facebook and suddenly he lit up, saying oh, yes Matias, you were referred by Matias. The Chilena woman also remembered him, and apparently he was fondly remembered. That changed the dynamic with the guardaparque entirely. Then another woman, speaking Spanish but with a German accent, came over the radio. She made it very clear that she did not care at all who referred us or why we were there, we were on her private property, illegally, and she was very, very angry about it. This went back and forth a bit, the guardaparque sort of trying to help, the radio not working well. Eventually he and I went up to reception (another kilometer back up the hill) to register us. She was on the radio and I actually talked to her directly in English. I explained that we were walking two weeks from Antuco, we had read a nice review from another member of our hiking group, and that we didn't understand that we needed to register at the lodge. She was very disinterested in anything other than the fact that we were on her private property (despite the fact that it is clearly a business) and should not be. She said she didn't want to discuss where we were coming from or how we got into her land over the radio. She also said a number of things that made no sense. First she said that they close the gate at 19:00 “which is quite normal here”. We left the next day and at 16:00 the gate was still closed and locked, because of course it was, there are pedestrian passes on both sides, and the gate is there for cars, ATVs and motorcycles. She said there was a number posted to call to make a reservation for the next day, but that was not true, there were no phone numbers on any of the signs. Furthermore, the guardaparque gave me a flier for the lodge which did have numbers (but you'd have to enter illegally to get it) that clearly stated on the bottom that there was very poor cell signal at the lake. In the end she said we had two choices, pay the entrance fee, which we were going to pay anyway, and a multa of 3.000 pp for “illegal entry” (they were all very fond of that specific wording), or leave immediately (at this point it was 22:00, and as previously mentioned the was no water for several kilometers). I said we would pay, really what choice did we have, and gave the radio back to Carlos, the guardaparque. He was very nice, said it was his fault, he's normally always there and just left for awhile because they were out of food. We talked to him and his partner more the next day. He explained that the fees were 5.000 pp for entry to the lake and another 5.000 pp for camping if you first registered at the lodge. For anyone who doesn't register at the lodge first, regardless of the time they enter, it constitutes “illegal entry” and there is a 3.000 pp multa. Keep in mind that the sign at the front gate says “welcome” “access with ticket” and “you can pay the guardaparque 500 m on if you didn't pay in the lodge”. There is absolutely no mention at the gate of the prices, the hours of entry, how far away the lodge is (it is 7 km further down the highway), or that a multa is issued for “illegal entry”. The whole situation was incredibly frustrating and it's our first truly unpleasant interaction here in Chile. It is also a very suspicious situation. On the OSM map on the GPS the lake is within the reserva, though on Gaia it is outside the reserva. She has a CONAF marked trail sign with her property, but she's claiming it's private, and a sign claiming UNESCO status, which it simply isn't. Bottom line, if you go, be prepared to walk an additional 14 km round trip to register the “normal way”, or to pay a 3.000 pp fine and be yelled at by Beatrice for “illegal entry”. But also maybe just don't go. It's really not that nice and there are better places to camp in the reserva.

* '''2024-Feb-14 to 2024-Feb-15 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-13.7]

Water at all Water and Ford Waypoints I passed today. But at km 3.1 it's not much more than a trickle. The hotspring at km 6.6 is a little dirty and has some cow poo around. But still worth a little bath.

Day 2: RR [13.7-32.9]

Water at all Water and Ford Waypoints I passed today. There is still some snow on the southern side of the Pass (km 27.6), but you can walk around it on the eastern side on a step gravel slope. Be carfull walking down. There are a lot of lose bolders. I didn't take the trail out of the gulch at km 31.1 as Hannes suggested. Its possible to continue in the gulch but I had to get rid of my hiking poles at one point to use both my hands to climb down a mini waterfall. The Hotspring at km 32.0 was pretty dirty and rather warm than hot. I did not went to Ranquil and continued directly with section 12 at km 32.9.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Section 12 on RR - Guallali / RR + Option 4 until the pass / Alex & Christophe'''

We directly went on this section after section 12. The way up to the pass in the river wasn't easy and took us more time than we thought. There was only one time were we had to go out of the river to find another way as Hannes as already explained.

Once, the pass was behind us, all was easy and we really enjoyed Hot Spring, Camp {11} [6.6/991] (Poorly Maintained). It was clean, maybe recently digged and nice after a dusty day on the trail.

We also ended this section with a light resupply in Guayali and a perfect almuerzo before going on section 10 in Shop {11} [0.1/951] (Mini Shop).

* '''2024-Jan-16 to 2024-Jan-18 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes'''

Nothing worth to mention, which has not already been mentioned before…except the gulch after the pass. At around -38.110511, -71.087826 it gets pretty straight, with fast water flow and river gets deeper and you are not able to figure out what comes after the next 50m because you do not see…I went out there from the river bed and took a trail on the left side (with some BB for the first 20m), you will see this trail…at around -38.111291, -71.087135 I entered the gulch again. Choose yourself.
Afterwards I went out to Ranquil and then to Maximilianos and Anna’s minishop at -38.24995, -71.23238. They let me sleep there. So nice people! Convinced Max to sell Gas in his shop, so should be available soon there.

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-06 to 2024-Jan-07 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {11-C} - RR / Lilian'''

Dirt road walking from RR km0 to "Bridge? {11-C} [0.3/1109].

Lot of nice water flowing across the road.

Hot spring,camp RR[6.6/991] : i didn't go to check the hot spring, i saw it from high at road, there are lot of cows surrounded and standing in the spring, look like they are enjoying it. And a beautiful grassland is good for camping just beside it. A dirt road just before water[6.8/1035] will lead you to there.

RR Km11.7 : beautiful view begin!

If you follow the dirt road walking, it will lead you to Bridge? {11-C} [0.3/1109].

Bridge? {11-C} [0.3/1109] : no more bridge here, cross the stream just above ankle. After you cross it, CC back to RR.

Ford RR [18.0/1199] : Crossing of Río Chaviquin, when you arrive the river, upstream 5m and look at the riverbed underwater, a rock bar there, about 45° downstream to the other side. Water is above half of thighs at noon, luckily flowing not fast and not strong.

After the crossing, sometimes the trail easily mix with cow paths.

Water, gate[19.9,136] : locked. Not a friendly gate, not easy climbing.

Km22 : go into a wildfire dead trees area, for now the trail conditions still ok, but after some years they all fall down, i think it'll be difficult to follow between blowdowns.

Km23.2 - km23.8 : blowdowns area, RR become difficult to follow, look like some reroute here.

Ford[24.3/1688] : flowing fast and above half of calf at late afternoon. Flat spot can fit 1 tent after the crossing, surrounded by forest.

Camp[25.1/1846] , Camp[26.1/1957] : both are beautiful camping spots, but no wind protection, also very wet as now, lot of tiny streams flowing nearby.

X[26.8/2036] : if you don't look at the GPS, it is a "must" miss junction.

Pass[27.6/2174] : no need to step on any snow at north side. Still covered by lot of snow at south until km28.6(1850m). You can sit down then slide down, but some rocks appear at 2060m, better control the sliding direction otherwise your butt will cut off. I keep skiing down(with my trail runner) until almost the end of snow. You can walk on some stable ground start at km28.4(1910m). I think this part is difficult for NOBO if in heavy snow conditions.

Mostly there are no trail, all walk by your own way in the valley. Maybe you'll find some nice trail like the one at km29.15, but all of them will disappear in 5min.

You will cross the same river 21 times until you met a beautiful trail at km30.8. All the crossing is easy, mostly just calf, all under knee.

Except km30.15, it is a small waterfall, valley become narrow, no shore for go around or stepping on, I don't know the way to go down. So i turn back to km30.1, follow the trail shown in OSM, climb up on the east side of valley. But when i going down back to the valley, look like a short part of the trail is landslide away, it becomes very steep to go down, be careful.

km30.8 : trail, easy walk start.

Km31.3 : locked gate with wire fence, you can go around it at right side.

Hot spring? [32.0/1428] : nice spot! 2m x 2m pool with good temperature water(about 50°c), although it's not deep also grey colour, but it surprised me, just like a reward after so many cold feet crossing! Some flat spots nearby. I met a friendly family here too!

Ford[33.2/1403] : crossing of Rio Ranquil, looks like up to thighs and flowing strong. Log crossing at upstream 40m, but not easy. I saw some footprints for locals crossing it, so i crossed here. After the crossing about 100m is a big fire ring and a camping spot can fit 1 tent under a tree. 80m more is a roundabout for dirt road, you can camping here if need, because the dirt road is damaged so no cars coming.

And then dirt road walking all the way down. Maybe possible for hitching out on weekend if you are lucky, i saw some people driving to here for picnic when i was walking down the road on Sunday.

* '''2023-dec-23/ 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Lukas en Tess'''

Section 11 went fairly smooth. We followed the advice of the wiki to avoid option 1. RR was perfect, coming through some awesome forrest on the way up, we found wild cilantro and some other stuff. We camped just across the ford on K24,3 for the pools. The pools are good, but I think the next campspot on the map at K25,1 is definitely the most beautiful on the route. With awesome waterfalls not too far to venture into. The pass was no problem, lots of snow on the other side but never to steep. We sat down and went for one of our fastest decends jet :p
Then the pickle began, we needed to restock for section 12, but the busses are only monday, wednesday, and Fridays. And not on public holidays like monday the 25th of dec!!! We tried hitchhiking, but there was no one passing except horses.
In the end, we found a new minishop on the way to Troyo {11-5f} 14.3 k from the end of GPT11. The owners just moved here from Santiago. Maximilian and Anna are probably the nicest people we have met on the trail so far. The shop has everything you need to resupply except gas (maybe in the future). They took us in and we ended up staying with them for 2 days and celibrating Christmas together with some of their friends. It was great!

* '''2023 Dec 15 / 1 day / hiking / SOBO / option 05 + 05F + hitchhike / Frans'''

Reading all the stories and in combination with the upcoming bad weather made me skip the pass and decide to go to Troyo or even Lonquimay and rejoin GPT 12 later. Beautiful walk through the valley tho! Really enjoyed it.

First rivercrossing after 1.5km, water was pretty strong and for me (194cm) reached my waist even before I was halfway. So decided to turn back and look for a better spot. About 150m downstream the water splits in 2 streams. Much easier, didn't came any higher than my knees. So easy to cross here.

About 200m before GPT11-05A End there was a gate and a man sitting in front of it. His wife joined immediately. My western interpretation of their verbal and non-verbal communication was they were grumpy and annoyed. But I could understand probably less than 5% of the words they said. I tried to smile and wave, thank them and say how beautiful the area was but it made no impression at all. After taking pictures of my driver license and paying 10k CLP they let me through and continue (and I knew this would happen because it's written here before).

Got a ride to Lonquimay after joining the main road to Troyo (11-05F) by the first vehicle that passed by.

* '''2023-Dex-02 to 2023-Dec-04 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Jens'''

We combined the two stages 12 and 11. The hot springs after about 7 kilometres gave our weary bones a little rest.

I had tried the ascent to the pass along the left-hand side. I followed a trail for a few kilometres, but at some point it ended in bush bashing. The better route is probably through and along the river.

As there was still a lot of snow at the beginning of December, crossing the pass was not easy. The last 100 metres in altitude were particularly steep. I can imagine that the melting of the snow could lead to avalanches in the coming weeks.

On the other side, I had no further problems. There was still some snow, but I could either avoid it or walk right over it.

Water: Many options

Camping: Many options from two kilometres before and after the pass.

* '''2023-Dec-3 to 2023-Dec-5 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 5F + option 5 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

We started section 11 and turned around just before the pass because there was too much snow for us and we felt it was dangerous. So we then took the option road to go to Troyo ( rest day) then to Guallali.

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : lots of snow on pass, from km 29,14 to km 27,57.

- Camping spot : easy to find, the natural hot spring matked on the map is present and it's easy to camp next to it

- River crossing : on RR, following the river is easy from km 30,8 to km 29,12, stay in the river bed. It's not worth it to get out of the river and try to found a way around it. We did it and regretted it. | Rio Chaquilvin on option 5 was easy to cross. (The cable car is locked)

- Weather : Sunny

- Option roads : option 5F | (1) gravel road, for us on a Sunday, we didn't encounter a car for the first 12 km then got lucky and got a ride to Troyo - we also got an easy hitch from Toro to Puente qcontraco. Option 5 | (2) easy track. From km 7,15 ( fundo los Guindos) to km 1,2 you are in Mapuche territory. At km 7,15 , two guys with some big knifes hanging on their belt asked us to stop. They were a bit cold and not really welcoming. They explained to us that they were retaking their land and therefore needed to register everyone who was entering.They took a picture of our passport and let us go after saying that we should go to the house at km 2,45 so someone there could help us cross the river ( Rio Chaquilvin) where there is a cable car. Once we arrived to the house, a woman ( really not nice) blackmailed us in order to give her money because we were on her land. When we asked how much for the fee she just said " what do you got ? ". So then we negotiated a little bit but quickly gave her some money ( 7000 pesos), but she was asking more.... There was a big dog behind her and we were feeling really uncomfortable and just wanted to get out of the situation. She didn't help us cross the river and just said " if you die it's your responsibility '.

- Warning : Mapuche land - read section ' option roads' | A lot of snow at the pass on RR.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-05 to 2023-Mar-05 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Continued directly from GPT12 so we started at the end of RR-TL-V {11} [31.3+1.5] . We followed the RR for the whole section.

On day 1, for RR-CC-A {11} [27.6+3.3], you have to stay in the river stream for the whole duration. You will find plenty of water because you walk in it, and nice pools and little cascade if you want to take a bath. Leaving the stream for higher up is not a good choice : every time we tried it was a mistake. We camped at Camp {11} [26.1/1957]. It was not protected and the night was very windy... Not our best choice.

On day 2, we continued until Guallali following the RR. The trail around Km15 transforms in a MR that leads you to the village without even checking the GPS.
There, we found the minishop that had limited resupply options (we bought lentils, cookies, snacks and cola). We checked in with the carabineros that were friendly and sayed we could camp wherever was wind protected. We opted for the football field which is a nice flat and grassy place.

Not much to say about this section, we found the end on the dirt road relatively dull but the beginning in the mountain is awesome

* '''2023-Feb-11 to 2023-Feb-12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (option 01+ off route) / Natalie&Tomáš'''

Combined GPT 10(01)+11+12
Day1
Slept in Guallalí in the growth as others have described, but still asked the shop owner first for permission. Carabineros were nice and told us we did not need to check in although the sign says "obligatory check". Pedro at the mini shop is also kind and willing to help hikers although there is only a handful of items in his shop: bought some sweets. Pedro also told me that option05 to lLnquimay would require you to pay 10mil to the locals. We took RR. At this time of the year the road is the "dirt-dust type" but still fast until Estero Quillaylemu (14km) which makes for a nice rest. Tomáš checked out the hotsprings at 6.6. There is a table and a pool of nicely hot muddy water directly next to a river. Better camping site than in Guallali. After the Estero Quillaylemu, the track gets harder to follow, but becomes beautiful after the ford and bend towards the pass. Lost the trail a couple of times, but found lots of wild quinoa. Camped at 25.1 behind a boulder by the river to cut the wind, camp at 26.1 looked nicer.

For the pass we followed the ridge for as long as we could (option 01) and it was fun and straightforward. Luckily, although the winds were strong that day the ridge was almost windless. Made our way down similar to Will. Got off the ridge here; -38.10270, -71.07250 (later than indicated by the GPX), headed to a small dry gully next to and below the "greyish" dirt here; -38.10359, -71.07282, you had to use your edges as the ground was hard"grit". Entered a small creek bed here;-38.10604, -71.07538 and followed it (some water) until it turned into a scramble. At that point we climbed back up to our left (East), moved south until we went down and up our final gully, just underneath 01B. This last gully was easy as Tomáš found a soft spot, somewhere around here;-38.11039, -71.07474. After this point it was easy to connect to the main route [2024: The track is in our suggestions]. Just the section up to here from the ridge is problematic - maybe two km. Probably fastest would be to go down the regular route and take the first option left, which is probably a trail and only means about 300 m of additional climbing. The route as mapped by the GPX files (option01; second half of the traverse) looks quite steep and exposed and does not save much elevation. It might or might not be possible but to us from below it does not look worth it.

Lastly there are water sources on the other side of the ridge (SW, the hard side) before the hotsprings if needed.

Continued onto Section 12 towards Banos Coyucos for the night.

* '''2023-Jan-27 to 2023-Jan-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Johana & Matouš'''

We camped near the ford on the 18th kilometre (just about 20 metres upstream is a great place to take a bath in). The next day we made it all the way to the end; however, it was an ordeal. The view from the pass was jaw-dropping and parts of the path leading up to it were shaded by beautiful trees, but we feel like the horrible descent (we were doing the regular route) made it not worth it for us. Despite the fact that we were lucky enough to have the best conditions for the descent (only some snowpatches at the top, sunny weather), the terrain felt ankle-spraining. The wobbly stones kept sliding down and it required a lot of focus. We went down through the canyon and after the point where you need to go above it when it becomes too narrow we went down the wrong way and I fell down clutching at straws (literally) not to fall down. So it might be better to go through the river..? To be optimistic, the last part of the path was beautiful again. We hitched a ride and stayed with a really nice family that took us to Lonquimay the next day. It's a nice bigger town with a lot of possibilities to resupply. There are really buses only Mo-We-Fri from Ranquil.

* '''2023-Jan-17 to 2023-Jan-18 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 to the Termas del Pelehue / Will '''

I took the bus to Guallali, which took me past the Carabineros and directly into town where I set up in the standard grove. A bit after dark two carabineros showed up at my tent. Intimidating at first, they were very friendly after I explained my plans. They just said that next time I should make sure to stop and report to them on my way by.

The section starts out with a not very interesting road walk, but suddenly became super beautiful 15ish km in. I camped at 25.1, a somewhat sheltered spot by a stream, where the wind rattling my tent made it hard to sleep. A few arrieros came by during the evening. The 26.1 campsite looked similar.

The horse flies reappeared as I got up closer to the pass. Had flashbacks of sections 7 and 8, trying to determine whether each stab was a horse fly or a burr or a paranoid hallucination. My theory is that they've migrated up to the higher altitudes, now that it's later in the season.

I took option 1 (diverging a decent amount) to join up with section 12 at the termas de pelehue. It was tough and slow going, taking around 3 hours, but I really enjoyed it. I planned my route to avoid horizontal slope traversals so I never really felt in danger of a serious fall. I did still slip a few times, cutting up my hand a bit.

I started out with the ridge walk from the pass. Would have been great walking if not for the absurd winds, I spent most of it slightly to the south below the ridge. The slope was pretty gradual there and not slippery. I then went down past the two grass patches following the route on openstreetmap. I descended to the south all the way down to around 1875m, along a stream around 50m to the east of the openstreetmap route. It was easy rock walking at first, but turned into some tricky hands on scrambling as the stream got bigger.

I wouldn't recommend it if the flow rate is high. Then I climbed back up to the final stretch of the main option route. The climb was steep at first but with enough vegetation and solid rock in the slope to get up. Everything after that was easy, more or less.

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

From Guallalí there’s a gravel road for first few kms, easy walking. We didn’t check the hot springs in a hot day, but someone mentioned it is fine. All the fords were easy. We camped around km 21 in a little forrest. The ascent to the pass is pretty gradual and we enjoyed it really. Based on previous comments we chose to stick to the RR which turned out to be a good decision. There was still quite a lot of snow and the terrain is more technical, but it just requires focus. We walked on the right edge of the snowfield and slided down in some parts. When we reached the river we didn’t walk at all on the snow but rather on river banks or even in the river itself. Closer to the junction we once or twice followed the alternative dotted line that is marked in our maps - it just goes higher up from the canyon and back. After the junction we continued to GPT12.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Jan-13 to 2023-Jan-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Guallalí - Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) / Anna & Christopher '''

In Guallalí we camped at the same spot as Veronica after arriving around 20:30.
The first day there is a lot of walking on dirt roads and good paths, so the km went by quickly. We camped at the ford waypoint [24.3/1688], where the way passes a small creek. It has some natural pools, which are amazing to take a bath.

The next day after arriving on the plateau there is a CC part, so keep an eye on your navigation device. When we reached the pass we accidently went the wrong way and ended up taking option 1 to decrease the detour. Bad idea! Better don't take option 1. There is almost no path, its very steep, a lot of scrambling and there was one very stupidly dangerous descent across some gravel/rock part. It took us around 3,5 hours to cross option 1. We would definetly not do it again. We directly continued to section 12.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking /SOBO / RR + OH 2 / Véronica '''

Route: Guallalí - Junction to Section 11, Option 2 - Ridge Las Monjas - Junction with GPT12, RR-CC-A {12} [12.9+3.5]

Ralco is a good resupply town, the smaller supermarket had camping gas. Took the bus back to Guallalí at 5 p.m. for 1,000 clp, arrived around 8:30 p.m. I camped in the same araucaria grove as the night before (via the wooden gate next to the escuela). Good and clear path in a pleasant valley, river fords easy. Found some ripe berries/brambles along the trail that were delicious.

I decided to opt for Option 2 that goes east of Cerro Dedos. I was worried about the likelihood of snow on the steep south side of the pass (2174 m) on the regular route. I didn't need to stop in Ranquil, so figured it was best to stay high on the mountain and take either Option 1 or Option 2 to connect with GTP12. After reading the comments from other hikers, I knew I didn't want to take Option 1. A scree traverse on a south-facing slope didn't sound appealing, especially if you factor in lingering snowbanks this year. So I thought Option 2 would be best. A detailed description of my experience along that route is posted under "Optional Routes" ("its directly under this post - modified by Joscha97") . The gist of it is - it was very technical, not much solid footing, lots of exposed scrambling. In a couple spots I genuinely feared for my life. Would not do it again. Please stay safe if going that route, and I would definitely not attempt it NOBO!

Took 1.5 days to meet up with GPT12 at km 12.9

OH 2:
The trail is good and easy to follow in the initial valley once it splits from the RR. There was no puesto at the second "puesto" waypoint, just remnants of old fences and corrals. Good place to camp, sheltered from the wind. The start of the CC section is an annoying but thankfully short bushwhack to the treeline. Afterwards it's straight up to the top of the ridge, grass turning to scree/rocks higher up. Steep, but quite doable.
Once at the top of the ridge, this is where my troubles started. The ridge is not nice and rounded, but very narrow and jagged, with vertical, rock outcrops/spires blocking the way frequently. You have to go around most of these obstacles (impossible to climb over), and this is the most dangerous part. To go around you need to descend back onto the nearly vertical scree slope, traverse around the rockface, then climb back up to the ridge. All on the most slippery scree/gravel I've ever experienced. It was all extremely precarious. Climbing back up around the very first obstacle, the scree was so loose I was on my hands and knees scrambling upward, trying to climb faster than the rocks falling under my body. One of the most frightening situations of my life honestly, I felt like I could have gone down with the rocks like an avalanche. After miraculously getting back up on the ridge, I couldn't stop shaking and was almost in tears. Couldn't believe what I'd gotten myself into honestly. And then came more scrambling and clambering. Poles were useless, I was using my hands the whole time. I can't stress enough how loose and unreliable most of the rocks were. Very, very difficult. Would not attempt this northbound, ever. And thank goodness the weather was good and calm too. The views were spectacular, out of this world, but not worth risking my life for, and I wouldn't ever do that section again. Don't know if Option 1 would have been better. At least snow wasn't an issue with Option 2. If I had to do it again I would stick to the regular route, go down to Ranquil and climb back up GPT12 via the RR.
Anyway, south of S 38° 06.903', W 071° 02.205', the ridge becomes less steep and more rounded, easy to walk on. You reach the pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], and make a sharp left to go along the Argentina border. Go across a few easy snowfields. Amazing views of snow-capped volcanoes all around. Condors swooping near my head. Felt like I was the only human on earth. Still lots of snow on Cerro Dedos. Once GPT11-02 meets with GPT12, you pick up a faint path and navigation is easier.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- If you cook on campfire or on wood burning stove you have better stay discrete because everything burnt some years ago and the landscapes are still marked.

- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. You can easily save food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- Camp {11} [22.6/1461] : I loved this place. It was very comfortable with grass on the soil, almost flat, protected from the wind even if there is some in the valley, discrete, and I spent much time looking at the stars thanks to a good and warm (or at least not cold as it was the previous days) weather. To get water you have to walk 3 minutes following the point on the GPS which is precise

- Ford {11} [18.0/1199] : I had good time there, the weather was very good, the place is calm and good to rest, water is still cold but there is enough to wash if you want to

- From GPT-11C Start to Guallali it's now a Minor Road so it's very easy to follow and you meet a lot cars going in both directions, they just waved me.

* '''2022-Feb-13 to 2022-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 11-01 (ABCDE) from the pass to Termas Pelehue on GPT12 / Veronika & Jo '''

The MR out of Guallalí continues until about km 12 on RR-TL-V (another trail that's been jeep-tracked recently) where it veers off to the north. We found out two kilometers too late, but got back to optional route 11-C by CCing through some araucaria forest. This turned out to be a happy little accident, as, this way, we saw a family collecting things from the ground, which turned out to be piñones. Here is where we learned that the ripe cones are "café", and that the piñones just fall down when the cone is hit with a stick or a rock. It's basically nature's piñata (no etymological relation though!). Before getting back to the track, we found some low-hanging ripe cones, which sprinkled more piñones than we wished to carry. Got a nice free meal out of those we did pick up :)

Camped in one of the many camp sites deeper in the mountains.

The next day, we decided to skip the descent to Ranquil after the pass, instead taking the optional route 11-01 (ABCDE). 11-01 stays above 2000m on the slopes of the peaks to get to Termas de Pelehue on GPT12. We had food for three more days and the weather was excellent.

We regretted this decision. 11-01 is CC without a clear path. Initially you're walking diagonally on a 45° incline of scree and sand, which is technical and requires constant concentration to find the scree-free spots. Later on, you're going from lower-incline slope to slope with little high-incline "gulleys" in between (as usual on a mountain flank). At some point, we did not see how to cross such a gulley at the spot suggested by the track files. We decided to descend to the point where the gulley seemed to have a passable incline, to ascend back on the next slope. This turned out to be a mistake, as the slope became more inclined before the gulley became passable. In the end, we did a lot of clambering, I got some fresh cuts from sliding down high-incline scree, and we narrowly avoided some scary looking cliff edges at the low end of our slope. This was the most dangerous situation we got in so far, and we were not really prepared to handle it well.

I'm not blaming the track files: it was clear that it was high-altitude CC, and there was a waypoint warning of "demanding clambering" (though it should not be limited to "nobo"). Maybe going up the problematic slope instead of down would have been the better decision. Just be aware of the challenges this optional route brings. Definitely not doable in bad weather (you would just slide down to your death in some spots).
Note that OSM shows a trail a little to the west (a little lower on the slopes) of 11-01, which connects at the beginning and end. We think we saw this path at some points during our traverse. This may be the easier route to follow instead of sticking to the CC points (which was the superior strategy on all other CC sections so far ;)
There's a water spring at S 38° 06.178', W 071° 04.579'.

Anyway, we were happy to reach the Termas de Pelehue. Sub-par hot spring, but great scenery all around. You can camp there, we went for a small spot protected on most sides by mountain slopes: S 38° 07.407', W 071° 03.775'. There are some non-sulfur water springs as well as a warm river to wash up in the surroundings.

We continued on GPT12 for one day, getting back to Ranquil via the southern optional route 12-01. This way, we could catch the bus to Lonquimay the morning after (left at 07:55, there's a second one at ~17:00 Mo-We-Fr). Camped opposite the carabineros (on their suggestion) a bit behind the bus stop, close to the river.

* '''2022-Jan-17 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We arrived in Ranquil with the bus at 17, and walked about two hours to the hot springs where we camped. They are not very deep, but you can probably lie in them comfortably. Nicely warm.
The ascent towards the pass next to Cerro Moncol follows the riverbed, and as previously noted, it's necessary to cross it multiple times. We were able to cross without getting our feet wet every time, though. The terrain before the pass is difficult, but after it immediately gets easier and the trail is easy to find. We were in a snowstorm and found it easily.
The trail to Guallalí is pretty easy, a long way before Guallalí it becomes a gravel road.

As described by others, there is a shop in Guallalí with VERY limited supply. It's next to the brown house of big planks, but you enter in front of the little red house to the right.
Romina normally still offers accomodation, but when we were there she was leaving for an appointment in the evening and couldn't have us. She pointed us to the carabineros to camp, but they didn't want us there and told us to go to the camping ground "3 km" down the road. It turned out to be more like 12, and we ended up camping on a field some km from Guallalí

* '''2021-Dec-03/ 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

Took the bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil friday at 15:00 (leaves Monday, Wednesday and Friday). On arrival I met two fellow GPT-hikers. Started off in some pretty bad weather with hail and thunder, but it luckily passed after a few hours.
The first challenge I encountered was walking up the small river towards the first mountain pass (NoBo). To make my way up this section I had to cross the river countless times because of the difficult terrain by the river banks. Getting wet feet was inevitable. Afterwards I encountered a snowfield that leads up to the pass. Definitely possible to avoid the snow by walking along the edge, but I found it easier to just make my way up through the snowfield.
Continued on to guallalí where there is a mini-shop with very limited supplies. (There are no flags or signs that indicate there’s a shop but it’s by the brown house made of rustic wooden planks.)
Went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food.

* '''2021-Dec / Hiking / NOBO / OH 5 / Franck & Damien '''

Be aware there are only 2 water spots on the road around the volcano
One at the start (tap by the conaf barrack) and a very small one at the camp before entering the scoria field (not sure if water flows after december).
Make sure you load liters of water, esp. in summer (heat + exposure to sun)
Plenty of water (snow melt) once you passed the volcanoe.
The TL from Contracto bridge to Communidad Chenqueco is now a kind of MR, we crossed several 4WD there (? !!). There is plenty of water there.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-28 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH5 / Martin '''

4 days. 120 km. Because of bad weather forecast in the high parts of the cordillera, with strong winds, rain and even snow, we opted to take Alternative route 5 from Chenqueco to Lonquimay Volcanoe. A lot of road walking at the begining but the scenery and trail in the National Park were really amazing and worth it. Beware that in the traverse through the volcanoe to Corralco Ski Resort, there is no water and also difficult to camp. High winds and a lot of rain at the end. We checked many hostels in Lonquimay and the most convenient for us, was Hostal Nativo close to the main square.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank'''

2 days & continued to GPT12
At Pass 2180 wind & rain came in, I diverted onto OH-CC-A@11-03-#001 as described by Linda. Snowfields were old & undercut by stream leaving tunnels 5M deep, definitely not safe to slide on. Walked on edge of snowfields or a little above them on right. Then you enter a gorge, it is best to stay close to the stream & only leave the gorge if you must. In to Ranquil, nothing there apart from Carabineros & no traffic. From Ranquil I continued on OH-TL-V@12-01-#001 to GPT12

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ty & America '''

Guayali - Termas de Pelehue
Short & Beautiful. 4:00 Bus Ralco - Guallali. Arrived at carabineros after 8. Luckily they let us camp outside. TONS OF FLIES, so be ready for that. The thermal pools at Pelehue are up by the fumarole. The traverse over there is gnarly, steep, slippery, all the good stuff. Quite small, but with an AMAZING view. The lower one seemed fine to get in, we didn’t as we wanted to make it to the next hot springs on section 12.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Guallalí, End: Termas de Pelehue
2.5 days. We went from Ralco to Guallalí by Fletes (see section "To section start"). It's a bit expensive but we didn't want to take the bus at 16:30, arriving late. Beautiful section. The first hot springs are worth the detour if you have time to clean them and dig a bigger pot (would take you approx. 2h), otherwise you just have a warm foot bath. After the pass we took the optional route #002 leading back to the regular route, then we switched some times between optional and regular route and finally took the optional route directly to the Termas de Pelehue. This part is quite demanding as there are some landslides where you have to find your way through somehow. The hot springs are gone due to lack of maintenance.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 5 / Maddie & Tom'''

3 days, 120km walking around Volcán Lonquimay. Given section 11 was not feasible due to high levels of snow we took Optional Route 5. For us it was 5 star scenery. It is beautiful and the trail is very easy to follow with trail markings in the CONAF park. We found it to be quite a quick section as a result of the easy navigation and good trail quality. Good resupply options in Lonquimay (we stocked up on food as well as bought some new socks and more 95% alcohol for our stove).

* '''2020-Jan-09 / 5 days (GPT11+12) / Hiking / SOBO / OH / Matus & Anna '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-27 to 2019-Dec-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 3 / Linda'''

Regular hiking route until the pass 2180 meters and then Option 3
Nice section ! After the pass, I decided to go down along Option 3 that goes into the canyon. Lot of snow at the beginning, but that was fun cause the slope was not very steep and I could use my bag raincover as a sledge to go down!
Then, I ended up into the canyon, crossing the river at least 20 times but no problem cause the water level is low and the river is tight (compared to GPT07 for instance).
The only difficulty was once the canyon becomes too tight and I had to find a way up and had to face a landslide. Just one part of 5 meters wide but quite dangerous cause very sleepy with the rocks falling down.
After, back into the canyon until I could join the Regular Hiking route. No difficulties until Ranquil.
Was lucky to find people with a car who dropped me in Lonquimai cause I had to resupply. Otherwise, only 3 Buses a week from Ranquil (no tiendas to resupply) to Lonquimai = Monday, Wednesday, Friday
Supermercado with everything to resupply and accommodations in Lonquimai

* '''2019-Dec-12 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 5.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. On Cerro Moncol there was still some snow, which made us very slow, as we either had the options to walk on steep snow or walk higher up in more difficult terrain. Rivercrossings were no problem.
We liked: The amazing views, the condors we met at the northern part of the pass (they came very close to us), the mountain crystals of which there are plenty on the northern side of Cerro Moncol.
We did not like so much: The higher difficulty due to the snow in some parts (Snow on top of Cerro Moncol made the regular route more difficult)

=Resupply and Accommodation=

Accommodation in Guallali:
Brown house, ask for Romira; bed, dinner and breakfast for 30k

Supplies:
Hitchhiked to Chenqueco, 10 km, shop with small selection, some veggies, pasta, the essentials

Bus to Ralco with more options every day at 5.30 am takes 3,5 h

Same bus to Los Angeles

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

Ranquil:
new minishop on the way to Troyo {11-5f} 14.3 k from the end of GPT11. The owners just moved here from Santiago. Maximilian and Anna are probably the nicest people we have met on the trail so far. The shop has everything you need to resupply except gas (maybe in the future).

Resupply on optional road : in Troyo there are 3 small shops enought to resupply for section 10 and 9 ( vegetables, pasta, rice, semoula, galletas, mayonnaise, bread.. )

- Accomodation on optional road : in Troyo, we stayed in a cabana for 30000 a night for 2 people. Wood for fire included and kitchen. Just ask at one of the little shop | In Guallali, we stayed with a lovely family in front of the school (wooden house ). 30 000 pesos per person per night - dinner and breakfast included

*Lonquimay (from Ranquil)
- Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus terminal has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have.
Several accommodation options

(Hannes, JAN2024): Try Camping Lolen, around 16kms from Lonquimay, at entrance/exit OH-MR-12-04, very clean, nice Lady who attends, at river, weekends a bit crowded. 7000 pesos/night...hitchhike or take a bus, station in front.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

* Ana and Maximiliano's house - https://maps.google.com/?q=-38.249920,-71.232513. Available: accommodation, meal, protein, gas

=Transport to and from Route=

*Guallali
(2020-Jan)

Bus Ralco-Guallalí 16:30 Mon-Sat, 9PM Sun. (~2.5h) The bus leaves Los Angeles terminal rural around 2PM Mon-Sat, 7:30PM Sun, continuing to Ralco & Guallali

Fletes: 4x4 Cars in front of the supermercado. They drive you everywhere. CLP 80'000 to Guallalí, but if you find one going there anyway the price is much lower ;-)

*Ranquil
(2022 Jan)
Bus from Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15
Other days bus to Troyo can take you most of the way, but hitching the rest might be difficult

Dec 2024 :
Bus ranquil --> lonquimay : monday, wednesday and friday 2 times/day. Leaving ranquil around 7am or 5pm (and leaving lonquimay around two hours before to go up to ranquil)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT11 - Cerro Moncol]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830032.jpg|thumb|1100px|center|Laguna Marinaqui]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830130.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[file:Guayali.jpeg|thumb|1100px|center|Guallalí, Por Norberto Seebach, 1100px|center|[http://www.recorriendochile.cl/ Recorriendo Chile].]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830046.jpg|1100px|center|Laguna Marinanqui]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830051.jpg|thumb|1100px|center|Laguna Marinanqui]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830070.jpg|thumb|1100px|center|Laguna Marinanqui]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830082.jpg|thumb|1100px|center|Laguna Marinanqui]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830115.jpg|thumb|1100px|center|Laguna Marinanqui]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664147.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664155.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664163.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664167.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664189.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108829980.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108829987.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830002.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]
[[File:GPT_7_Laguna_Marinanqui_108830021.jpg|thumb|1100px|center]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2025-12-31T09:57:34Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2025-12-31T09:54:32Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious bb but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks there are at least animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5
Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2025-12-31T09:47:11Z

Hoscheid-l:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

Greater Patagonian Trail track files

2025-11-08T21:31:49Z

Hoscheid-l:

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]] The track files of the [[Greater Patagonian Trail]] are provided on personal request by [[user:Jandudeck|the author]] free of charge but not unconditionally. Read in the Hiker's Manual chapter '''1.15 Terms and Conditions for Using the Hiker's Manual and the Trail Files''' to review these conditions and to understand why these conditions were put in place. GPT Hikers's Manual: http://bit.ly/GPTmanual ==Create an account in Wikiexplora (compulsory)== [[File:create account wikiexplora.png|frame|Six (very standard) steps to create an account in Wikiexplora]] To request the files you must first [http://wikiexplora.com/index.php? title=Special:Enter&type=signup create a Wikiexplora account]. It really takes less than a minute. The form is in Spanish, but it's very standard and simple: #User name #Password #Confirm password #Email. Not mandatory but highly recommended to give us the chance to reach you. Wikiexplora has sent only '''one''' non personal email in 13 years. #Real name (optional) #On the final line type '''wikiexplora''', all in lower case ==List of requests== 

*'''Matt&Linda''' Hola Jan, we are looking forward to the hiking and cultural experience of the GPT! We learned a lot from the manual. We are already in Argentina and found some digüeñe! Thank you for all your work !

*'''Simon&Mila''' Hi Jan, thanks for the amazing work with the manual and the track files. Looking forward to go deep into patagonia !

*'''Alex&Aoife''' Hi Jan and GPT community :) My Partner and I are planning on hiking SOBO from Santiago Early January 2026. We would love access to the GPX files. Really appreciate all the collective effort that's gone into the manual too. Very special resource. Thanks alot !

*'''Isa&Sander''' Hi GPT community, we are two ecologists from the Netherlands and are travelling to Santiago at the end of November 2025 to hike parts of the GPT. We don't have a set time, so depending on our progress (and how many cool plants and other creatures will distract us ;) ), we will try to do more or less sections. We really look forward to experience the landscape and meet its people.

*'''pearcerichi''' Hello, we are Richard and Emeline, we are french, we plan to Come in Chile one month and half in the early 2026. It is our first Time in Chile. Like people of this community i guess, we like so much hiking paticularly in immersive natural and social environments. The reason why we were very glad to find a trail like GPT and a community like wikiexplora. Our first idea is to start by sections 06 to 12 this year. But maybe the plan might change during the process. Thanks à lot for all you have done to help us planning pour trip. Hope we might contribute. Best regards. Richard and Emeline

*'''AriGPT''' Hello! I'm Ari, and I'm hoping to hike a few sections of the GPT over the course of roughly a month from mid-December 2025 until January 2026. I was in Patagonia about 4 years ago, and I was absolutely impressed by its beauty. I'm really excited to hopefully go back and I think the GPT would be an incredible opportunity to do so and see new places and appreciate the beauty of Patagonia.

*'''Henrik G''' Hi Jan and the extended GPT community. I'm Henrik, from Norway, and I'm planning to spend a month hiking parts of the GPT early spring 2026. I learned about the GPT from a man I sailed with back in 2020, who was a long distance hiker (and also a captain on a sailing boat). We sailed together in Greenland where I especially appreciated the remoteness, the proper wilderness and the fact that your are self dependent and need to plan properly. I would like to request receiving the GPT track-files so I can start the detailed planning process.

*'''Amy G''' Hi Jan. I was lucky enough to be invited to trek with a member that I met in Chile in 2024. We will start in January 2026 until the season is over. While he does the packraft sections, I will trek solo and meet up later. The more I read the Hiker's Manual, the more exited I am becoming, because I agree wholehartedly with the phylosophy. I would appreciate recieving the GPT files so I can plan and coordinate routes with my friend.

*'''Lucie V''' Hi Jan and everyone, I’m Lucie from the Czech Republic. After four years, I’m coming back to Patagonia — a place that really became my second home for a while. I love nature and mountains and would like to experience some of the best parts of Chilean wilderness, while hiking and connecting with local people along the way. I plan to hike selected GPT sections from January to April 2026, heading southbound. I’ll be hiking solo but would be more than happy to meet and maybe join other hikers for parts of the journey.I’d be very grateful to receive the GPT files to be able to plan all the details. Thanks a lot to Jan and all the contributors for the amazing work on mapping and sharing this trail network!

*'''Mor A.''' Hello everyone who might come across this :) My name is Mor, I have just graduated from my Masters in university and now it is my time to take my exploration to a new continent. After wondering through Europe and Israel I would like to do the same this season in South America. I have heard about the GPT from a freind in the Israeli Ultralight community and have fell in love. The idea of wondering through less accessed land with the opportunity of interacting with native communities off the beaten path of Patagonia makes me excited. I am currently looking at the section around GPT06 or further down south around El Chalten. With no clear plan I am looking for the GPX and KMZ files to better plan routes. Reading the user manual was such a relief that so much accurate and to the point information exist and now the files will be the final piece to my plans :)

*'''Antoine B''' Hi, I'm Antoine from France. I just started a sabbatical, leaving space exploration for some time to explore Earth, spending more time in nature and mountains. For many years I have longed for travelling to Chile/Argentina, to discover its wild nature and culture (and finally practise my Spanish!). I read about the GPT earlier this year and it feels like an exciting balance between remote trekking, hiking/packrafting mix and an open adventure where encounters, weather, rivers and time hold surprises. I'm still planning but so far the idea is to reach Santiago by late November 2025, go SOBO and spend ~4 months on various sections of the trail: probably hiking sections between 05-22 and packrafting within 17-31. I will be happy to connect with other hikers on the way, and would be very grateful to receive the track files for planning. Thanks for your huge work Jan!

*'''Julia&Oliver''' Julia is working on a charity project in Mendoza atm. When this finishes we'll hike for a few weeks. We'll start somewhere at Puerto Montt/Bariloche and hike NOBO. Where Julia is more the kind of "Duracell bunny", I am looking more for really remote places where is no information at all available about the track. Discovering a handbook with 1300+ pages was kinda shock to me. 😅

*'''Elisa B''' Hello everyone, my name is Elisa and I'm from Switzerland. I'm planning to hike the GPT between December and January. Why the GPT? I discovered this trail through a book by a French explorer. As I read through the pages, it became clear that Patagonia would be my next destination and I'll be tackling part of the GPT, as I've always wanted to walk long distances. I enjoy wild and authentic landscapes, contact with the local population, and having to fend for myself. Since I have little time to explore the region, I'm planning to spend about 2 months hiking the section between GPT20 and GPT40. Heading north. I'd be very grateful to receive the GPS files. Thanks a lot for your job on the GPT!

*'''Pierrick G''' Hi Juan. 10/2025. I am currently exploring the South American continent with no fixed return date and a strong wish to immerse myself in the local culture. My motivation for hiking the Greater Patagonian Trail is to step off the beaten track and lose myself in nature, seeking an authentic, humble, and challenging way of life. I hope to leave no trace along my journey, connecting deeply with the environment where I am only a simple guest and a temporary visitor. For me, the trail is not only about adventure but also about respect, discovery, and becoming part of a wild and beautiful land, even if only for a while.

*Edwin. Hi Jan. I hope to be flying to Punta Arenas the 10th of november and intend to cherry pick some gpt sections. Hope to get a bit more done than just gpt12 and half a gpt33h two years ago! Of course I would be very happy to receive the latest gpt files.

*'''Alma''' Hi Jan. I hiked three months on the GPT in 2017/18. An amazing experience! Since that time I am longing to explore other regions of Chile whilst on the GPT. I would really appreciate receiving the new track files in preparation for another three months on the GPT starting this mid-November. Thanks for all your research and for sharing your knowledge on thru-hiking (and packrafting) in Chile!

*'''Sandro''' Hi Jan. I am a pretty experienced bikepacker, and I usually create my own routes, but since I don't have that much experience doing this for thru-hiking, and there is already such an exhaustive and well-researched amount of information available, it would be silly not to acquire your files and start from there.

*'''Nicolas''' Hello everyone, my name is Nicolas, I’m a young engineer from France. Between January and March I plan to travel on the GPT, most likely combining hiking and packrafting along parts of the GPT. To better prepare my trip, I would like to request access to the track files. Thank you very much to Jan and all contributors for the amazing work on this project, it’s really inspiring to see such a resource shared with the community!

*'''mts1010''' Hello. I´m planning to do a part of the GPT from January to April. Is it possible to get the track files? That would be helpful. Thank you for your continued work on this project.

*'''Michaela''' Hi everyone, my name is Michaela and I am from Austria. At the end of November 2025, I will start the GPT from Santiago and hike southbound. I will see how far I can get, as I have time until mid-March 2026. I am really looking forward to it!

*I'''guai''' Hello Jan, contributors, and all. Looking to be back in Chile for my first time in almost 20 years starting in January 2026. Excited to hike perhaps 500 km of the GPT over the course of a couple months. Thanks!

*'''LauraAndaGPT''' Hola Jan, I am currently figuring out which parts of the GPT I would like to hike (2025/26). It would be great to have acess to the track files for planning. Such great recourses to explore the Region, thank you very much in advance for all the considerations you made while publishing these informations!

*'''Massa''' Hi Jan, thanks to you and anyone contributing for maintaining and sharing the information (not only the track files). Me and my wife are going to be in Chile two months starting in early in december and returning late in the january 26. We are looking forward to hike some of the sections of the GPT. Thank you, Jan, also for the help with setting up the wiki account.

*'''djunksss''' Hola Jan! This is Julia from Brazil! Last December I went to Cochamo to hike in the region and loved it very much! Now I'm planning on going back to Patagonia, this time to Torres del Avellanos region to again do some hiking and exploring, but this time with plans to do some wild camping. A good friend of mine told me of the wiki and the GPT track files, and I'm sure they would be of the greatest help moving around! Thanks in advance for all the trouble in keeping this awesome site in the air.
*'''Álvaro''' Hi Jan! I´m planning to do a part of the GPT with my son the next summer, probably a couple of weeks in January. Is it possible to get the track files? It would be a great help to have them. Thanks in advance.
*'''Mochi''' Hi Jan! First of all, thanks to you and everybody else who's put so much work into the Greater Patagonian Trail - I'm amazed by your generosity! I would like to hike/packraft parts of the GPT this upcoming season, together with my partner. For more in-depth planning it'd be great to have the track files.

*'''Quentin.FR''' Hello, I plan to travel across Patagonia from january to april 2026, and I would love to take part of some GPT track in order to hike as much as possible. Therefore, I would like to request a GPS track to plan it. I will be alone during my trip. Thanks!

*'''Pierrick M.''' Hello to the GPT community, thank you for the work done on this project. I would like to hike part of the GPT starting from Santiago in November 2025. Therefore, I would like to request a GPS track to plan my route according to the recommendations in the guidebook. Hope to see you soon on the GPT!

*'''Castade''' Hi Jan, I’m planning to start hiking the GPT from Santiago (GPT01) without a fixed end point, just seeing how far I will go as the journey unfolds. I would really appreciate access to the GPS files so that I will be able to look further into the routes and have them for when I start the the trail. Thanks so much for all the work you've done—it’s truly an incredible resource!

*'''Daniel S.''' Hello everyone! Thank you Jan,, for continuing the project! After completing some of the packrafting sections in the 23/24 season, I will be returning to the GPT in November '25 to repeat some sections and probably try a few different ones as well. See you out there!

*'''Roy Kisluk''' Hi Jan, I plan on hiking the GPT starting with GPT69 in October and heading North. I will be hiking solo. I appreciate all that you put into this project. Thank you!

*'''Nimrod Ashkenazy''' Hi, I'm planing to mostly solo hike (I have friends who will join for some sections) in November 25. I first heard about this trail while thru-hiking the TA in New Zealand. Thanks for the great work!!!

*'''Denis Rosa''' Hello everybody, I heard about GPT from Slovakian couple which hiked almost 3000km, after gathering more information and as I have been going through hikers manual this is something we would like to be part of at least a bit. Possible attempt would be with my best friend most likely in the season 2026 November until 2027 March. Only hiking. Not sure yet which parts exactly but we would have few months for that we would like to plan more from track file. And I have to add that really appreciate all the work which Jan did, thank you.

*'''Glacier Kane''' Hi Jan, first of all can't help but smile when I read your document, the hidden codes, the obligatory communal contributions, as a fellow Engineer I appreciate your creativity and effort here :] anyways I'm planning a 3-4 month hike through the GPT in the next 6-12 months and would love the track files! Not 100% sure what section I'll do yet but the files sure would help me plan it, thank you sir.

*'''El Perezoso 91 (Sebastian)''' Hi together, my girlfriend and I hiked part 36H last year, and we would like to to the complete section 32 to 40 from September to January 2026/27. Many thanks @Jan for the GPT compilation, it's an incredible work you've done!

*'''Trix&Tinu''' Hello everyone, we already hiked GPT 21 to GPT 1 in 2018/2019. Now we want to hike further stages in the south (without a packraft). We'll be in Chile from December to February. @Jan: Thanks for your work!

*'''JesseCaro''' Hi Jan, ever since our last visit in Patagonia in 2016 we’ve been dreaming of coming back. In previous years we’ve been hiking trails in Europe and the US. Searching for new experiences we came across your project. We would very much like to hike the GPT next summer (from December 2025) and use your Track files. Thank you very much!

*'''Oelk'''* Hi Jan, A few months ago while planning an open-ended ticket trip to the Americas came across the GPT Hikers' Manual and fell in love, I depart in a month to NA and I plan to arrive at Santiago early October and to hike the Northern Bulk (and continue south if budget and weather allows). Already practicing my Spanish and preparing for the journey physically and logistically. Your passion for this region and this route is contagious! Would love to get access to the Track files, thank you and hope to hear from you soon.

*'''Anso'''* Hi Jan, I am reading about the GPT since years waiting for the right timing for me to come. It finally cames. I took 4 months off between December 2025 and March 2026 to go solo-hiking between Coyhaique and Ushuaia. My goal is not necessarily to connect footsteps between those two locations but rather to take the time to explore the area and enjoy the suprises on the way. Thank you very much

*'''Teebi'''* Hi Jan, I've been traveling the last 9 weeks through south of Chile/Argentina and did a lot of the well known trails. While preparing for Villarica Traverse I found Wikiexplora and the GPT. Now I also really want to do the GPT06 and I think it will be one of my highlights just before time in Chile ends. Many thanks.

*'''Minutetravel'''* hello Jan, my name is jacques this year I discovered northern Chile and fell in love with this country. I would now like to explore Chilean Patagonia. I thank you for the incredible work you have done in mapping all the trails in this region. Thank you for accepting me on this list so I can access the files.

*'''Greg''' Hi Jan, I'm very keen to explore parts of Greater Patagonia, particularly GPT 6-12 from January 2026. I would be very grateful for the track files to be able to achieve this. Many thanks for creating this amazing trail network.

*”Joppe” Hi Jan. I’ve been interested in the GPT since years and have finally got a chance to go to Chile for a month or maybe more. Would love to contribute to this project. I’d love to be granted access to the files. Thank you for your amazing work on this.

*"AthenaJones" Hi Jan. Hoping to solo hike the trail from the beginning of october to the end of january. My goal is not to complete the trail but to explore it until the time runs out. I will need the track files to achieve this. Thankyou for all the information you have provided, its inspiring.

*"Asimo" Hi Jan. I'm currently solo traveling in Patagonia by bike with a packraft for 2 months and for the next 2 months. I learned about the GPT on the way and I'm interresting on several sections. Particularly for packrafting a portion of Río Baker, hiking around Torre de Avallano y glaciar O'Higgins, but also comparing options for hiking and discover more deeply Patagonia between Coyhaique and Puerto Natales.

*'''Schmittenk''' Hi Jan. I'm living in southern Chile and have walked short sections that overlap with the route network. I'd like to look into hiking longer sections within the next couple of years. I'd appreciate being able to access the track files.

*'''UnChamoisEgaré'''* Hi Jan. I already had the chance to walk a part of the GPT 3 years ago alone (Adrien Kunzli) and this time I would like to do it with my 2 brothers for two months. We are preparing a little late but we have all the equipment and are in Valparaiso and we would like to start as soon as possible. I hope this is possible, thank you very much! Let me know :)

*'''Diego Raffaeli'''* Hi Jan. I've been reviewing the GPT Hikers manual in order to planning a trail from Lago Puelo (Arg) to Cochamó (Chi). I would really appreciate if you can share the tracking files with me. Thanks in advance.

*'''Sprocky.''' Hi Jan. I've been studying the GPT hikers manual for some years now with an eye on exploring as much of the route as possible over the next two summer seasons. Keen to be a part of the GPT community and give feedback. I would really appreciate the track files to help me continue with route planning this year. Many thanks for compiling such a detailed resource. Cheers

*'''SteveBehaeghel.''' Hi Jan en Meylin, thx for the recent update on the GPT files. We are currently in Pucon with our 3 kids (3ys, 6ys and 9ys). The upcoming 3 months we will continue to revisit or explore certain GPT sections on small adventures of maximum 5 days. We will trek parts of, and including optional routes, from GPT14-GPT16-GPT19-GPT21-GPT22-GPT30-GPT33-GPT35-GPT37. I will probably do some small uptdates on the FB group, but the wikiexplora pages I will update after our longer trip in the second half of 2025. Thx for all helpfull information.

*'''Martin M.''' Hi Jan, I would like to explore some part of the GPT on foot, starting from GPT32. I only have a few weeks, so it will be just a small taste of what GPT is. Therefore having access to the track files would greatly help. Thanks a lot for all the effort you put into it.

*'''7yson''' Hello, Jan. Thanks for this incredible resource. What an amazing effort that you and your community here have made. Happy to be a part of it. I'll be in the Esquel area in late Feb and am studying the main route for sections to hike in March, northbound likely. Thanks for considering me for access to the track files.

*'''Daniela Montecinos''' Hi Jan! I found GPT while searching for information on packraft routes in Patagonia. Your work is wonderful! I am interested in doing some of GPT's packraft routes and being able to contribute updated information on them. Thank you so much for your work and for sharing it!

*'''Mochilaosabatico''' Hi Jan. Tks for all information about GPT. My husband and I have just finished GPT 6 (Descabezado Grande) and we want to hike sectors 7 and 8. I would appreciate receiving the tracklogs for GPTs 7 and 8. Tks a lot!

*'''Moonshine''' Hi Jan. I have been loving the in depth guide for the GPT. It has been an incredible resource for this upcoming trip. Thank you so much for all you have done. My friend and I are planning on spending a month in March hiking along this trail. We have yet to decide exactly where along GPT06-GPT22. We are hoping we love it so much that next year we will come back with some packrafting knowledge and do more for a longer period of time. We love being in the backcountry, and connecting with local communities. This truly appeals to us in every regard. Excited for this adventure!

*'''Tom Venegas''' Thank you all for the fantastic work in gathering information and building this community! I’ve hiked in the Radal, Lircay, Antuco, Cochamó, and recently I’ve been exploring more of Aysén—specifically Cerro Castillo and Patagonia National Park. I’m really excited to check out Torres del Avellano and the Pioneros Road in Aysén next. Looking forward to connecting with other hikers and sharing experiences to be part of this project!

*'''Benoît''' Hi Jan, thank you for the incredible work you've done with the hiker's manual, it's an invaluable resource ! I started the GPT from Santiago in 2018 (sections 01 to 08), and I would like to continue from the Antuco Volcano and go south. Thanks again for all your work!

*'''einat shvartz''' Hello. I'm einat, i'm 26, i'm arriving solo to patagonia this January (2025), for about 2-3 months. I wish to hike the GPT, or maybe just some sections of it. I am absolutly love being in untouched nature and also meeting authentic people from all around the world. Hiking some of the GPT sounds incredible. I'm experienced with medium-long hikes (several days to 1-2 weeks top), but 0 experience with packrafting. There for I wish, at this point, to do only sections that are duable by foot (probably the more northen parts of GPT). And probably not a lot of difficult parts, at least in the begining, to see how i adapt to this new land, and to the whole thru-hiking experience. I hope that the track files will help me build and plan my own customize trail, and that i will be blessed to expirience some of it.

*'''jhfelner''' Hello. I plan on hiking and maybe packrafting numerous sections of the GPT over the next few years starting with parts of GPT around Section 6 this year. Experienced with remote mountain terrain. Would appreciate the track files for further planning.

*'''Tomek Z''' Hi, I´m from Poland. Right now on the one-year hitchhiking trip through South America. But part of my plan was always hiking some part of Andes. This idea of GPT really looks nice. I am a student mountain guide in Poland,and so far my bigest hike was from Zakopane to Budapest aprox. 350km, 16 days. Now I would love to try someting more challenging. I want to do a part from Trapa Trapa to Santaiago. I speak spanish quite well and curently I am working in a hostel in El Chalten. :) I plan to start a hike in the middle of February.

*'''Matthias Keil''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.

*'''Jordan Porter''' Hello. I plan to solo hike and packraft the Gpt starting December 2025 and hiking until April 2026. I spent three months backpacking and exploring Chile and Argentina last Jan-March so I have a decent idea of what to expect weather/transportation/etc. Your hikers guide has been a great resource so far! Looking forward to being in touch.

*'''Ben McLuckie''' Hi Jan, along with my spouse, we want to spend 3 months hiking from PN Hornopirén north to Santiago starting in March. I am currently reading your 2024 Hikers Manual. For 3 months in 2019 we traveled from Dientes de Navarino to El Chaltén and for another 3 months in 2024 traveled from El Chaltén to Valdivia by mountain biking, trekking and connecting ferries. We are most definately "immersion hikers" and not mileage-focused thru-hikers (no judging here).

*'''Fernanda Rodriguez''' Hi Jan, I am visiting Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia for one month. I am interested in doing the GPT 37 to GPT 40. I've been all of 2024 reading your Hikers Manual. I feel so grateful for such a beautiful contribution you have made to this, my country :)

*'''Chloe Derrien''' Hi Jan, with my partner, we would like to go from Ushuaïa up to Peru using some GPT sections. We would like to start end of february. Thank you for the GPT hiking manual, it is a huge help and source of informations.

*'''DavidVidal"" Hola, de a poco he ido haciendo trayectos de varios días por la cordillera, algunos de estos se unen también a ciertas secciones del GPT. Me interesa tener estos tracks para planificar mejor mis salidas. Agradecido de tu trabajo y prolijidad en esta ruta. Leí hace un tiempo el manual, acepto las condiciones claramente.

*'''Jason''' Hi Jan. I'm currently looking into hiking some sections of the GPT in 2025/2026 and would greatly appreciate the track files to aid in planning. I've read the introduction and agree to the terms and conditions. Thank you for all that you do.

*'''Ben Ram''' Hi Jan, I am researching hiking sections of the GPT in the Chilean Lake District with my partner in late 2025 to early 2026. It would be really great to have access to your GPS Files for this. I have read the Terms and Conditions and agree to them. Cheers.

*'''Ana''' Hi Jan, I’m looking into hiking sections of the GPT in late 2025 to early 2026. As part of my planning, I’d love to have a look at the GPS files to decide on sections. Thanks so much for all of the work you’ve put into this, the hikers manual is particularly useful.

*'''EmilieV''' Hi Jan, I am planning to cross Chile from Antofagasta to Ushuaia by foot and bus and I would like to incorporate some of the GPT sections in my adventure. The sections in question are 6 to 12 SOBO and then skipping over some of the middle sections to hop back on it probably after section 32 to finish at 40. I am still figuring out if I want to add a section or two from the southern part of the GPT and would like to access to GPS files to finish my preparation. The hikers manuel and the unbounded documentary were so helpful not only regarding the "trail" but also understanding the different dynamics of the local population, so interesting!

*'''pointatadventure''' Hi Jan, a huge thank you to this wonderful community! I came across GPT after an extensive internet search. As an avid adventurer, I am planning a trip to Patagonia next year to hike and packraft. I have read and of course accepted the terms and conditions. It would be fantastic if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Steve Hawkins''' Hello Jan and thank you for considering me for the GPT track files. I have read all terms and conditions, and I agree to comply. I also agree to contribute to the community. I am a "soon-to-be" retiree and have backpacked extensively in the United States. I would like to hike sections of the GPT over several years in 60–90-day increments beginning in Winter 2025-2026. I am beginning the research process for the first section hike in Patagonia and would love the assistance of the track files. Thank you for your consideration.

*'''Matias Federici.'''Hi Jan, I am going to do S14-15-16-17 next week, dont have much time for preparations because I was just noticed in my work that i have the vacations abiable, Been years reading About de GPT, this is the first time I have the money and time to try to do some, Im realy looking foward to this, thank you for the incredible job you started, best regards from argentina!

Use the format:
*'''Michael G.''' Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections 1 to 22 NoBo of the GPT from early March 2025, beginning in El Chaltén. I would like to thank you for the selfless work you did on making the GPT what it is. I'd be grateful if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Al and Bee''' Hi Jan, we are planning on hiking parts of the GPT starting in early January 2025, probably beginning in El Chaltén and hiking north. Thank you for the incredible Hikers Manual on the GPT. The GPS files would be extremely helpful for our endeavor.

*'''Juergen''' Hi Jan, My name is Jürgen Wolf. First of all, I want to thank you for the Greater Patagonia Trail project. I'm planning to some chapters in February, probably from stage 21 in northern direction. I'm currently in the process of studying the manual and creating a plan for myself, for which the GPS files would be helpful

*'''Pierre-Marie''' Hi Jan, I have been hiking since 27/11 from Santiago to El Chalten. Thank you for your work and efforts to keep this trail alive.

*'''Dustin''' Hi Jan, I am heading down to Patagonia this summer and planning to explore some of the packrafting sections. I'm planning to start exploring out of Coyhaique in early January. It is really wonderful that you are putting together a resource like this for an area you love. Your passion really comes through in the guide. Thank you so much for all that you do.

*'''Miguel''' Hi Jan, my name is Miguel Rodríguez Letelier, i live in Chile, love hiking and the mountains. I am planning to hike the GPT in the summer. Thank you for all the work and passion you put in this.

*'''Henri''' Hi Jan, let me first say how thrilled I am that the GPT guide exists and that there are all these incredible resources available for free all in the name of hiking! I am looking at the possibility of hiking a section of the GPT this coming February. I have my selection narrowed down to a few different sections but I am still a little indecisive. I will only have about a month to hike the sections of the GPT until I need to go home. I am hoping to get ahold of the Track Files so that I could better understand the scope of what I might be embarking. I've made myself a spread sheet showing every section of the trail from GPT 001 through GPT 040 where I include data and details to more easily narrow down my decision, and with this I feel that I am ready to get into the fine details of planning a relatively short hike on the GPT (3 weeks or a month).

*'''Graham''' Hello Jan, My name is Graham Hall. I am very interested in hiking the GPT between December and February of 2025. I am beginning my planning process, and I would love your insight. I will say, this is somewhat new to me, not in the outdoor sense, but in perspective. I have worked as a backcountry guide leading canoe trips for several years, but thru-hiking is newer for me at least in the packing sense -although I have been doing some smaller trips. I am fluent in spanish and confident in my abilities in the backcountry, specifically in outfitting and planning so I am excited about getting my hands on the most up to date maps and trip notes to plan my route. I also am looking to plan some pit stops to try and attract my other guide friends to join me for sections, but I just need to get to planning. I also would just love to get some more advice. I will say, pack rafting sounds insanely cool (from my canoe experience) but I also know the dangers that come with solo water travel, especially in such windy conditions. I would love to discuss this further, if you have the time. Either way, I hope this gets to you, wikiexplora do me right!
I hope we speak soon,
Graham

*'''Nono''' Hi Jan! I am planning to hike the GPT from Puerto Montt to Santiago. I'll be starting in February. I'm currently planning the hike and the guide is really fantastic. Congrats and thank you for putting together such useful information. I hope I can help contribute too. Best, Arno.

*'''Timotheed''' Hi Jan, I am planning to hike on the GPT from El Chalten to Santiago with a friend. We'll start in February, and we ll make it to Santiago with some junctions by bus. I am currently trying to plan our trip and therefore I would like to use the GPT track files. Thank you so much for the amazing informations you provided.

*'''dmateria''' Hi Jan, I am planning to packraft the packraftable (GPT16+) out of the GPT from end of December onwards, thus I'd gladly make use of the existing tracks. Thanks for the amazing community you have helped building.

*'''Mishun''' Hi Jan, me and my wife Anna plan to hike on GPT as a part our trip to Chile in December. We aim to hike sections GPT 06 and GPT 07 but we keep our plans open to change depending on the current conditions. Thank you for all your effort.

*"'MiaimZelt"' Hi Jan, thank you a lot for sharing so much informations in the GPT Manual. My husband and i are currently in Chile and will be until April. We planned to do a lot of multi-day hikes off the beaten path, which are part of the GPT, without knowing about the GPT. Less than 2 weeks ago an other hiker advised me about the GPT. This way i found out we'll be section hikers on the GPT. Now i'm reading every day in the Manual and try to improve my planning as best as i can without the files. Since then i considered if i should add myself to the list, although i'm definately late. Decided to give it a try. The gpx-files would be a great help to find out about alternative routes of our planned treks and to understand all the log-entrys, which are related to the files.

*'''Elijah Fuller''' My friend Michael and I are experienced thruhikers who are looking to do something very different from our previous experiences; the GPT. We'll have approximately 2 months to complete the GPT in January and February 2025. We're currently route planning, with sections GPT05-22 or GPT32-47 being the two sections we're considering. It's time to jump on Google Earth!

*“Raphael Chevalier” Greetings and thank you for all the research and detailed information found in the Guide Manual. I have read chapter 1 and am further into getting info on that very intriguing trail. I have a GSP and would like to use the GPT gps coordinate to further research the sections I am planning to do starting January 2025. Once again thank you for the community and available information.

* '''Roman''' I already did parts of the GPT in the 23/24 Season and fell in love with it!:) So I want to continue where it stopped GPT82P / GPT 33. Looking forward fore some new explorations and the new stories to tell of the people I meet! :)

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike once again on GPT. Last time we were here in 2023 and now we are planning to come back ready to experience GPT with all its beauty and challanges.

*'''Peggy''' Hi Jan, a lot of gratitude for you work and for charing it. It's a wonderful gift! I plan to start the gpt late december 2024 and walk until march or april wherever I get. Then I probably do the south part next year. For the momeent, I study the manual, analyse the route and my gear so I would be happy to have the gps files to go further in this preparation. Talk with you soon I hope and I am happy too to be a part of this community.

*'''Mttmllr''' Hi Jan, I live in Biobio region Chile, and in the past few years have done some hikes in the Andes that have been on GPT routes. I'm interested in the track files to enable me to continue exploring (slowly, year by year, I don't plan on leaving Chile any time soon) the different segments of the GPT. Many thanks for all your work and dedication to this project.

*'''BeingGarrett''' Jan ... I am looking to start the GPT this year (2024) in Santiago, I have an unlimited timeline and acknowledge that the GPT can not be done in a single season, therefore I would like to directly view the GPS files to map a roughly 1000 mile section. Go far, not fast. Thank you.

*'''Kare-Bare Blvd''' Hi Jan, my GF and I are super stoked to have found such a wealth of knowledge available for our planned adventure to Patagonia. We have 2 months and are very much interested in the Packrafting portions between 17-39, plus all the side quests and hikes along the way. We don't plan to complete all these sections in 2 months but we really think that the track files will help in our planning and prioritizing of sections so that we can get the most out of our adventure and to do it safely. GPT 2026! B-K

*'''ClickClack''' Hi Jan, myself and a friend are planning on doing sections 1 through 40 from mid-November 2024 to March 2025. We hope to complete the whole thing and the track files would really help! Thank you for the incredible amount of effort you have put into this!

*'''Simonlusignan''' Hi Jan, I am planning my 1500km hike through some GPT sections. I am starting from El Chalten in January 2025 and will be doing sections 32 to 40 and 6 to 12. I would love access to the files to help me navigate through river crossings and certain tougher sections. Thank you very much for the incredible ressource!

*'''Tamar''''' hi! we were very excited to hear about this trail! and it's uniqueness!! we hope to hike through some sections along the trail starting from the north in December 2024 until the weather becomes cold. Would love to share photos taken along the way. thank you!!

*''''Thijmen''''' Hola Jan, I'm planning to Packraft part of the GPT for three months in January till March 2025. I would like to receive the track files in order to prepare. Thank you for all the effort in making this adventure possible.

*'''''borruu''''' Hello Jan, thank you for sharing all the information about GPT. I am planning to hike a southern part of the GPT in February 2025, an access to the track files will be greatly appreciated.

*'''''wiiiim''''' Hola Juan, I'm very interested in exploring Patagonia further by hiking & packrafting sections of the GPT from December 2024. I'm still going through a lot of the information, but would love to get request access to the track files to plan more accurately. All the best, Wim

*'''''Kevin4''''' Hello Juan, I am considering the GPT between Section 6 and 20 starting in December 2024. Thank you for your work and manual on the GPT. I would like to have access to the trace file to plan my route. I thank you, Kevin.

*'''''Clara''''' Hey Jan ! I'm planning to hike some sections of the GPT between Decembre 2024 to March 2025. After reeding the amazing GPT hiker's manual, I would like to get access to the track files to continue planning the hike. Thank's for sharing all your work.

*'''''Amazering''''' Hi Jan, first of all thanks for putting together all this info and documentation about the GPT, the pdf in particular has been an amazing read so far! We as a couple have been hiking for a few years and we identify ourselves very much in the slow pace, sharing centered and collaborative philosophy of the GPT, and plan on hiking on parts of the trail from end October 2024 through February 2025. Excited to be able to contribute back too!

*'''''GLOBTUINA''''' Hey Jan, i'm planning to hike parts of the GPT into october 2024 and January 2025, i would like to get access to the track files to properly plan my trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''Volker''''' Hey Jan, I am planning to hike parts of the GPT starting in December 2024 and would like to get access to the track files you created. You completed a tremendous work to write the excellent manual and create the track files. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT - and for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

*'''''Farah & Jan''''' Hey Jan, we're planning to hike parts of the GPT in January and February 2025 and would love to get access to the track files to properly plan our trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''leo_micklem''''' Hello, I'm Leo. I'm planning to Packraft some sections of the GPT with my brother as part of a wider South America trip. The Packraft portion of the trip will likely take place December 2024 into January 2025. We feel strongly that it is important to be properly prepared for a safe and enjoyable adventure.

*'''''Allie''''' Hello, I'm Allie (or Aliénor). I'm planning to visit Patagonia from november 2024 to march 2025, and i would like to discover the region mostly on foot. Thank you for your extensive research and comprehensive guide.

*'''''sigg''''' Hi Jan, I'm Chris and I was thinking about spending some time on the GPT as a solo traveller beginning mid January to beginning of March 25. Yet, as I want to plan thoroughly, I'd love to take a look into the gpx files in order to better understand the terrain to choose to legs I feel confident in mastering.

*'''''HugoT''''' Hi Jan, I'm Hugo and I'm planning to spend 3 weeks on the GPT. Reading the manual was great, a real change on how I normally prepare for more well-known trails in Scandinavia, Scotland, Iceland or Nepal. In my search for true nature, I would like to start on section GTP06 and go south until 1) the trail beats me or 2) go as far as my feet will take me in the time that I have.

*'''''veleslavia''''' Hello, I'm Olga and I'm planning to hike and packraft some sections of the Trail in late December 2024 with my partner. Thank you so much for creating the manual and the community around it!

*'''''Ayrton.debeauffort''''' Hello, first of all thank you so much for all the hard work to put all these incredible resources together. I am looking to travel solo this spring to Patagonia and want to do first 20-30 section of the GPT over 2 months (with flexibility on the number of sections and timing). I have done multi day hikes in the W trek, and Norway and the Dolomites in the past and am looking to do a longer distance trek given I will be taking some time away from work. I look forward to contributing to your amazing research and thank you again!

*'''''Celio''''' Hola, first thing, thank you very much for the passionate job you made in creating this Hiker's manual, it's a gold mine of infos! We are a french couple living in the alps and planning to do the GPT, starting november and going up north. Having worked 4 years in Tierra del fuego in guiding i'll be very happy to help in contribute and support the job you made ! Thank a lot.

*'''''TiMa''''' Hi, we are a german couple planning to hike various treks in Patagonia roughly during Jan+Feb 2025. We didn't decide yet on specific sections of the GPT. Thank you and the contributors for all the work!
*""Morliz"" Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections of the GPT from 11/24-5/25, am experienced in long distance (US), alpine (alps, andes, pamir) and would be happy to support the wiki explorer homepage for the GPT during and after the hike. Thank you for the support.
*'''''LukSara''''' Hello Jan, we are Lukas and Sarah, two hikers from the Alps and woud like to hike the first part of the GPT. We are planning to travel to Chile in November 2024. It would be great to hike with your GPS Track Files and of course we would be happy to contribute to your work with your experience. Thank you and everybody who made this possible.

*'''''ErJo''''' Hello Jan, we are passionate hikers that would like to hike parts of the Greater Patagonian Trail in January and February of 2025. We don`t plan on doing packrafting. We are very grateful for your absolutely awesome work and thank you for making such a trip possible! :)

*'''''Mathilde and Jordan''''' Hello Jan, first of all thank you very much for your huge and impressive work. We are two frenchies who would like to participate to this adventure and start in november. We'll be happy to share our experience, help with the tracks and give some updates. Passionate about nature, hike and new culture, The GPT is an adventure that we have in mind for a long time. Thank you very much :)

*'''''Elio''''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for the work you're doing mapping out the most remote parts of Patagonia. I'm a seasoned hiker from France and I'm starting planning my next project (hopefully for December 2024, depending on finance and wife approval :). I would be very interested in the data you've collected over the years to help me come up with a route. I would gladly contribute to this wiki as soon as I find relevant data to provide. Thanks!

*'''''Stefan''''' Hi Jan, we, my wife and I, are experienced hikers from Germany and are looking for a new long-distance hiking trail that is scenically impressive, remote and not overcrowded. We don't have a concrete schedule yet (probably in a few years, for a few months). In our search we finally came up with GPT and your manual. Both are really impressive! Thank you for your work so far! We would be happy to help supplement the manual and keep it up to date. However, we are still at the very beginning of the planning and would therefore like to use the tracks for further information and preparation.

*'''''Keili100''''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.
Thanks for your unbelievable huge amount of work you are putting on the GPT

*'''''Karin'''''Hi Jan, I am Karin. I have had the dream of visiting and hiking Patagonia since many years. I am in Latin America for roughly a year for work and I would like to take advantage of being in Latin America to hike in November - December 2024 parts of the GPT. Thank you vera much for your incredible work!

*'''''Charlie''''' Hi Jan! I'm Charlie. I'm planning to hike either two (7-8) of the northern sections or 32 and 33h in the first two weeks of april. I'm an experienced hiker, have led trips and organized my own in the us and recently completed a 3 week thruhike of sicily. beyond excited to get to patagonia - has been a dream for years.

*'''''Marion y Augustin''''' Hello Jan, we are a french couple wich aim to try to hike some sections of the GPT beteen April 2024 and July 2024, mixed with bus travel to join Perù. We are reading the Hikers'Manual, thanks a lot for that huge job !
*'''''Sophie y Gaspar (Dr Jabali)''''' Hello Jan, we are a franco-spanish couple wich aim to try to complete the GPT beteen November 2024 and May 2025 and discover these beautiful landscapes and cultures. Thanks
*'''''Paulus''''' Hey Jan, im very impressed by your detailed planning and knowledge of the patagonian mountains. I really enjoyed reading your short manual for the trail even though I should have actually studied for my exams. In Autumn I will finish university and now have finally the time to do a longer hiking trip again. Since im a biology student, the GPT is extremely interesting, since it would serve me as a transect to observe to Vegetation change from the north to the south. Ive always dreamed of seeing Araucarias!
*'''''gitano''''' Hi Jan I enjoy hiking and I have a lot of expirience hiking patagonia for the last 6 years. I grow up in Osorno and i would like to hike my own land. I will love to cooperate and keep up this exelent job!
*'''''Maxfelis''''' Hi Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Santiago. I recently did "Sendero del Condor", and I met someone that was doing the GPT06. I would love to collaborate with the GPT project, and explore other sections. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''txrx''''' Hello Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Bariloche. I am always researching new routes and many times I end up scanning the GPT Hikers Manual. I can't believe how much work and love has been put by all the contributors to build this, thank you very much! I would love to help to keep the GPT growing responsibly.

*'''''Bebo'''' Hello Jan, I First heard of GPT while traveling through Peru, Bolivia and Argentina by bike. Rightnow I meet with my Brother in Buenos Aires and we want to hike remote trails for the coming 2 months. The GPT sounds just perfect, so we really would love to get the GPX files. We are aware of the fact that the trails lead through privat Land and nature. We treat both with hugh respect! Thanks for your work! Greetings from germany!

*'''''Marilynemg''''' Hi Jan! I have been discussing the GPT with hiker friends for the last ten years and I finally will be able to visit Chile in March and April. I want to start with sections 1-8 and I have a couple more on the radar, time and weather dependent. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''Retezepe''''' Hey Jan, we are very grateful for the invaluable resources you have compiled for the GPT. We're looking forward to being a part of this project! My partner and I are currently in Chile and interested in hiking a couple of sections of the GPT. The sections that currently interest us the most are sections 19 and 37H. We will be in Greater Patagonia from February to March.

*'''''TrailsOfWander''''' Hi Jan. Thank you very much for your envaluable work for the GPT and for your guidance. I am traveling to Chile on Feb 11 to hike GPT06 and partial GPT08 and 09. Unfortunately I don’t have much time for this trip but I will plan future trips for other sections so the Track Files of GPT will be very valuable as the Manual is. Thanks again!

*'''''AlexNecky''''' Hello Jan, thank you for all the work you've done putting this trail together!! My friend and I have been eyeing the GPT for a while. After much researching using your information and additional sources, we have tickets to Santiago for the beginning of March. Our plan is to start with GPT06 and going SOBO thru GPT10 or as far as we can for the month that we have. We're both super excited about this adventure and look forward to contributing back to the community with our experience!! Thanks again!

*'''''Dueser''''' Hi Jan. I am deeply impressed by your work. Not only the time you spent on the GPT, but also all the documentation and the manual. During reading the manual I realized that 10 years ago I explored a few GPT stages in the north without knowing about the GPT. This time I'm deliberately heading south. I'll certainly put my experience to good use for the project.

*'''''CharlieGardner101''''' Hey there Jan! Charlie here! Wow, what an incredible community you've created here. I couldn't be more excited to explore this wonderful and wild part of the world and to become a contributing member of this initiative you've begun! I will be flying into El Chalten in the first week of February and, along with a few friends, hope to hike a variation of GPT sections 38-40. Later on (mid-late march), we hope to move further North to try our hands at a section somewhere between GPT 6 and 12. Thanks for everything you do! Cheers!

*'''''Zsu''''' Hi Jan! I would like to hike parts of GPT32-40 in the upcoming weeks. More details in the email. Thank you very much!

*'''''Fernanda''''' Hi Jan! First and foremost, a sincere thank you for your impressive work. It is so valuable to have this type of initiatives in Patagonia. I am Chilean and mountains have been my backyard since I was a kid. I am planning to do GPT35 and GPT 36H with my brother Francisco. He is also close to nature and a entrepreneur based partially on Puerto Bertand since 2020. I've shared the hikers manual with him and he was very thankful and impressed with this initiative. I would also be interested in contributing with adding highlights and changes to the track. Global warming is slowly but steadily modifying nature.

*'''''Daemos''''' Hi Jan! My name is Andrew, and I am a Canadian travelling in Patagonia for the next two months. I was planning to hike the Condor Circuit, but I've read online of some difficulties lately and am interested in investigating one of the variations of GPT6 as an alternative. I would also be interested in adding some highlights of the GPT to my plans as well.

*'''''PauMau2024''''' Hello Jan! My name is Paulina and I thank you so much for your work. It´s an impressive work that you have done! From february on my partner Flo and I want to explore and hike from Futaleufu to O'Higgins, GPT 71 and GPT35-39. Beginning in Futaleufu we will take around 5 days to get to Chaiten where we will have a resupply and then continue hiking down until the end of the carretera Austral. We are happy to share our GPS log and further information&experience, hopefully support future travelers.

*'''''madnomad''''' Hi! My name is Elias. We are a couple from Greece travelling around the American continent on a campervan, motorcycle, packraft and hiking equipment! We are already on the road for 5 months and we are currently in the Argentinian part of Patagonia. We love it here and it would be great to try a few sections of the GPT. We are not planning to do anything extreme, just enjoy a few highlights of the GPT at first!

*'''''acivs''''' Hi! My name is Agnes. I'm from Switzerland and love trekking. I did several hikes in the Alps, the Andes and in Patagonia. In August 2022 I started backpacking through South America and got trapped in Tortel about a year ago. Last March I read for the first time about the GPT and was fascinated by it. For the moment I am planning on doing my first to sections, GPT36H and GPT35.

*'''''wandering_guanaco''''' Hey all! My name is Jack and I am an American outdoors-person interested in hiking sections 16-23 this austral summer, and hope to continue to complete sections of the GPT as I continue to work in Chile for a few months of the year every year. This project is amazing and I am stunned by the thoroughness of the documents I have read so far. From the intentions of the project as a hike undertaken only by those who are prepared, to the particular comments on the links between fundraising and the inevitable outcome of the trip itself, I really appreciate the time and thought that has been put in to not just the adventure portion, but also the preparation, reputation, and impact of the hike. I feel lucky to have explored chunks of Patagonia in my past and cannot wait to broaden my experiences through these sections and information in the future.

*'''''bistarai.bistarai''''' Hello! My name is Susie, I’m French-Canadian and planning on hiking sections 6 to 18 (although very flexible) as a first attempt on the GPT which I have been eyeing for a while now. Eventually I’d love to try packrafting in more southern sections in a couple of years!

*'''''mollycargill''''' Hello, my name is Molly and I am a medical doctor from Australia with a lifelong love of the outdoors and an interest in wilderness medicine. As a part of an Expedition Medicine course I am currently undertaking I need to create an in depth logistics plan for a trip which I want to go on, which I have chosen as packrafting sections 16-25 of the GPT. I have had my eye on the GPT for a while, and hopefully can use the finished product of this assignment to help me finally attempt some of the GPT in the 2024/25 season.

*'''''HHGTPE''''' (Hitchhikers guide to planet earth) Hey, I am Felix. I hitchhiked around the globe for three years some time ago and now I am doing a semester abroad in Buenos Aires for my uni. While looking for long distance tracks in Patagonia, I came across the GPT and very much fell in love with the whole concept. This year I would like to do some of the shorter and easiest hiking parts of the GPT but hopefully come back in the future to do some longer and connected parts.

*'''''fabianundcecile''''' Hola de San Rafael, Argentina. We are travelling to southern Patagonia and thought we could hike some sections of the PGT along the way. Maybe starting with GPT 7 southbound. Saludos Cécile y Fabian

*'''''czimahi'''''Hola Jan, por favor me podrías enviar el file para ir alguna parte entre GPT18 a GPT5? Muchas gracias

*'''''nico142857''''' Hola desde Chile!. Escribo en español por razones políticas más que practicas. Primero que todo, gracias por recolectar, sintetizar y compartir la información. Me interesa recorrer la parte norte de los 'senderos' y me interesan tener los .kmz para 1) tener una ayuda, 2) no abrir mas senderos y respetar la naturaleza y 3) dar feedback a la comunidad. Saludos

*'''''Ggeoff88''''' Hello everybody ! My name is Guillaume from France and I'm actually in Bariloche preparing my adventure to go to El Chalten by foot. You guys did an incredible Job of research, documentation and exploration... Today I'd like to inspire of your work in order to prepare my road. It's normal for me and will be a pleasure to share my experience after it.

*'''''MysticalMarauder''''' Hi my name is Misha and I'm in Chile with an old friend about to the depart on a greand adventure December 2023 onwards. Heading south in the coming days with the zenith of our travels the Punta Arenas/Puerto Natales area. Then turning around and heading back north after a month or 2. Eager to get on the GPT in either direction in the coming months/years? Not sure how long this adventure will last but hopeful to hike many kilometers on this network. Thank yiou to Jan and this commmunity for establishing this route and creating this excellent resource for those excited to get off the well-traveled roads and disappear into the wild for a bit.

*'''''Lazy_Lemon''''' Kia ora! Looking to get amongst the Patagonia trails so thanks so much for putting all this information together!

*'''''Sam Odin'''''' Hello! Thank you so much for this impressive work. The detail and love put into the GPT manual is truly a gift to us all. Between January 15 and February 5, my partner Sara and I are planning to explore as much of GPT33 as possible. Beginning in Villa Cerro Castillo we will take 8 to 10 days to get to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (where we will have a resupply) and then take about the same time to get back to Villa Cerro Castillo. We would love to share our log and GPS information, hopefully further illuminating future travelers to the less frequented routes and parts of this section

*'''''Jonathan Mudde'''''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT in the very south and in the north. I'll start on the first of January around Ushuaia. And after that I like to use the border close to O'Higgins and hike some parts around Laguna de la laja I'm looking forward to use the gpx files. Thanks in advance! I have read many parts with great respect for your work and honering the lokal people. Regards Jonathan Mudde/Abishaloom

*'''Matthias''' Küme naqün antü! I've been following this fascinating idea for years, and now I can hopefully explore a small part of it myself and contribute to its long-term existence. I will arrive in Santiago in January, then I would like to follo'''w the GPT southwards, walking until about GPT20. But I am flexible in my plans on the ground, I am open to spontaneity and ever-changing challenges. Alles Leben ist Problemlösen.

*'''Carina''' Hi! Thank you so much for the detailed GPT resource you have created. It's been a dream of mine to hike/trail run through parts of Patagonia, and it would be really helpful to see the GPT track files to help with my route planning. I'm planning to go in 1-2 years from now, so plenty of time to plan still. Very happy to contribute / provide feedback on route sections once I'm there myself. Thank you :)

*'''Paulina''' Hello everybody. First of all, I would like to thank you for all the huge job you put into this projekt. I'm really amased. I will start a part of GPT in January, I'm especially interested in GPT because it seems wild, unspoilt and very interesting from cultural point of view. I also love the idea that everyone can create its own trail and that three is no one and the best option. Living in Europe where in some parts of the mountain we focus maybe too much on kilometers and speed, it seems that GPT offers something much more important. I will be more than happy to contibute to this beautiful projekt.

*'''Mitschu''' Hello, after spending 9 weeks in Patagonia (pre pandemic) I am back with the aim to explore even more :) I thought about starting in Bariloche, explore the lake area going north (following part of Huella Andina) and finally cross over to chile and start at section 16 southbound mid/end of december. I used the pandemic for some long distance hikes in europe (GR5, half of GR10/11 and TMB) and cant wait to enjoy the beauty of patagonia. I will hike solo but open to meet up with fellow hikers if someone happen to be in the area :) I am following the project since 2 years... impressive work. Happy to contribute as well! Looking forward hearing from you! Thanks

*'''Rainbow16''' Hi Jan & fellow hikers! My name is Tanja and I am currently planning to walk Sections 6-22 starting end of December 2023. Still a bit dizzy from reading the hikers manual (what a great documentation!), I am excited to further explore this Patagonian trail network via the track files. A huge thanks to Jan and Meylin for their adventurous spirit and dedication as well as all other collaborators (what a cool community!). Looking forward to contributing myself once I put my feet on GPT grounds.

*'''Frans van Driel''' Hi Jan, first and foremost I would like to thank you for all the work you put into the GPT. Truly impressive to read the manual! I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT. I'll explain more in detail in the upcoming email. My timeframe will be half December 2023 till half January 2024. I'm looking forward to this amazing experience and would like to start some more detailed planning using the gpx files. Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Frans van Driel

*'''Owen Hutchison (elhutcho)''' Hey Jan! Am incredibly impressed with what you have been able to put together with the GPT - it’s an amazing achievement for which I’m sure many are thankful. I have been reading through the manual in preparation for a trip in February and March 2024. My partner and I will make our way down from Lago Puelo (GPT 22/23) to El Chalten via a mix of different segments and pack rafting. To assist in planning and preparation, I’d be really grateful to receive the the KMZ/GPX Files. I am very happy to contribute back to the project in anyway I can. Thanks again! Owen

*'''Piotr Szatkowski''' Hello Jan, primarily I would like to say thank you for the massive amount of dedication you put into creating the whole guide. The quality of it, the precision everything is described with is very impressive.I would like to kindly ask you if you could share with me the KMZ/GPX Files. I am incredibly humbled to be able to discover the beauty of the regions of Patagonia. Can't wait into immerse in to this journey of solitude. I will be starting in end of December for section and or 2 heading south. Will probably hike for 2 months. I am not sure how long exactly.

*'''Ella Meyer''' Hi Jan, I am planning to walk parts of the GPT as part of a project studying and documenting people's relationships to water along long-distance trails. As per your suggestion when we talked on the phone one year ago, I would like to hike Sections 1-12. I may also skip to Sections 21, 22, 63 and 69. I am hoping to depart Southbound around late December (2023). I am very excited to embark on this journey, and welcome anyone else planning on hiking these sections to connect with me (contact info can be found on my website https://ellameyer.com/)

*'''Vlad Ivanchuk (vladdi)''' I'm planning to walk some southern sections of GPT northbound from Ushuaia starting in December 2023 for just over a month. I look forward to immersing myself in the landscapes and culture of Patagonia, and I'd appreciate access to GPS files to enable this adventure.

*'''Robin Marcille''' Hi Jan, hi all, thank you for this immense amount of work. After sailing from France to Ushuaïa, we are planning to walk parts of the GPT norhbound from Puerto Williams on November 2024 for approx. 3 months. We would be very grateful to access the GPS files to prepare our trip ! We are especially interested in the various options between Puerto Williams and Cochrane. We're super excited to participate to this project and would like to propose some mountaineering options !

*'''Cyril AC'H (Cy)''' Hi, can't wait more to get back with GG on the GPT after 2 years break, from El Bolson southbound toward Cochrane and El Chalten in a packrafting mode for those sections. No rush, side trips to fjords, we will see how far we get ! Thx for the KMZ/GPX Files !

*'''Martin_crgt''' Hi all, thanks for your work Jan, and for everyone's contributions to this adventure, My sister and I are planning to do the GPT in February 2024 from section 6 down south. Having the GPS data would be a great help to help us plan.

*'''maddidunster''' Hi Jan, Tom and I are two Australians planning to hike northbound from El Chalten to wherever we make it with the time we have from February to April 2024. Super excited, can't wait!

*'''guswimbo''' Hello Jan, thank you for all of your and others' work on putting together this incredible wealth of information! I'm planning on backpacking/packrafting from Cochamo to El Chalten in January/February 2023.

* '''Oscar Crassous''' Hello Jan, I'm a french men who will travel northbound during 9 months in South America, between november and august. I have planned to walk most of the time and I am very excited to hike some parts of the GPT during my trip. Thanks for your work.

* '''Matthieu''' Hello Meylin and Jan, former hiker on the GPT (season 2019-2020, northbound), would gladly go back on trail this year to hike some other parts southbound (Santiago-Antuco, Puyehue - Coyhaique)!

* '''GriffinWagner13''' Hello Jan, planning to travel to Chile/Argentinia in 2025. I'll be doing some of the sections between GPT01 and GPT40, bussing between routes as possible. I definitely want to hit some of the northern volcanoes as well as the southern routes! Super excited to hike it.

* '''edwinb''' Hello Jan, planning to fly to Santiago in 2 weeks. Thinking about gpt2/3 to do something close to Santiago and especially want to do the tracks in the araucania this time. gpt33h and gpt37h look very attractive to. Thanks again for all the work! Edwin

* '''lilian''' Hello Jan, i'm planning to have a 3-4 months hike through Greater Patagonia, I will travel to Santiago in mid-November 2023 and maybe end my hike about March to April at somewhere south. I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 to 69, would be incredibly grateful to have the files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!

* '''zipgerm''' Hey Jan, Thank you for your work and contributing the route information to the world! I'll be in Chile/Argentina from beginning of December until April. If my feet are willing, I want to walk parts of the GPT starting with section 05 or 06 southwards. I read a great part of your guide and already bought a GPS with satellite pager - alhough I never used neither of them on my off-track hiking tours before. Looking forward to Chile and the Andes. Matthias

* '''JordanJennings''' Hi Jan, my plan is to packraft soundbound sections 17-30 over the season, but will likely begin with a few (conditions appropriate) sections between 30-40 from November after completing some packrafting training around Puerto Río Tranquilo. I would like to also thank you for dedication so much time and energy into making this possible for all of us

*'''LottiRummel''' Hi Jan, thank you for all your fantastic work! We are planning to spend January 2024 in Chile and want to hike starting from around GPT 06 southwards. I hope the gpx tracks will help us decide which sections to plan. Thanks! Alex and Lotti

*'''Rowe99''' Hi Jan, first of all, many thanks to you and everyone else who contributed to the manual. I have never seen so much information about such a large network for any other region in an open-source manner. I am planning to hike this year (2023) from December to mid-February starting from El Chaltén northwards with a pakraft. Thanks for all the information so far! Cheers Roman!

*'''Jonas._____''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to hike through Patagonia from December to February/March. I will start in Puerto Montt and then go south from there as far as time and terrain permits. The great GPT Hikers' Manual did already give me a really good insight in what to expect and I would really appreciate having the GPT Track Files as well to prepare for my trip as much as possible! Thanks for your help!

*'''ColineW''' Hi Jan ! Thank you a lot for the amazing work you did with the "Great Patagonian Trail, Hikers Manual" ! It's full of wize advices and ideas I maybe would havenot find myself. I will go in Chili from mid-december to mid-march, meet up with my father who is currently wandering in the south. We'd like the hike northbound from GPT20 to GPT01. The GPS files would be a great help for you, since I tried my plan an itinerary on Google Earth and, as you know, I lost sight of some roads in the forest. My father has a Garmin66i, so we'll be able to send the datas of our trail to you. Have a nice day !

*'''Roi Keler''' Hello Jan, First of all, thank you for the amazing work you did and still do, it's a great inspiration for me. I plan to spend 3-4 months in Patagonia and I want to combine several walking sections of the GPT between section GPT01 - GPT16 & GPT32 - GPT46. After reading the hikers' manual and completing the preparations, I decided not to focus on a meticulous plan because it is important for me to be spontaneous and keep the options open. The GPS files in combination with the hikers' manual will allow me to choose the hiking sactions that suit me and then send the information to you and share with the community. Thanks for everything!

*'''Marmur''' Hi Jan! We are a couple and are planning to hike the GPT from start to end, in 2 seasons (hopefully) starting next season. We have visited Patagonia in the past and can't wait to get to know it more intimately, as we loved it so much. hiking in remote locations with unmarked trails is not new to us, but we are exited about the challenges that are waiting for us at this epic terrain. this is a great chance to thank you for all this impressive work that you've been doing, and you can count on us that after all this ends for us, we will share all inputs and updates with you and the community.

*'''Lukas Deleu''' Hi Jan, my girlfriend and I are planning to do 3-4 months of hiking through Greater Patagonia starting this december. We chose some of the sections that most appealed to us and hope to connect them by public transport. Gpt 6-12, 16-19, 32-40 is what we have in mind for the moment. Having the trackfiles would be a great help offcourse. Cheers.

*'''Huemul''' Hello Jan, I'm Frank from Irlanda. I hope to continue southbound in November from El Chalten to Isla Navarino. Thanks for all your help & advice so far.

*'''RoshiJ''' Hi Jan, what an amazing piece of work you've established in the GPT hiker's manual, and its amazing to see how many people are inspired by it. I am planning on exploring Patagonia starting in November, with no end date as of yet. My only goal is to wander and wonder but I'd like to do so well-informed and as prepared as possible. I already feel so after reading the manual but it would be even better to set out armed with your GPS files. I also love the idea of using wikiexplora as a platform to communicate within a like-minded community with similar goals so am enthusiastic to share my own experiences and read those of others.

*'''Pieper92''' Holá Jan, Thank you for providing this comprehensive manual. I will travel to Patagonia in November 2023 and want to make my way from santiago to tierra del fuego by feet, on my beloved packraft but also longer sections by bus transport. Have not picked all sections but Lagos Chilenos/argentinos, parts of fjord area and tierra del fuego are in focus. Especially I want to circumvent the spoiled national parks in the south. Your guide has already been a great help up to know but the GPT track files would be extraordinary helpfull. I will especially try to provide novel exploration data by packraft.

*'''nickcarter884''' Dear Jan, Thank you so much for all the work you have done on this manual and the route, it's fantastic! Some friends and I are planning to do the section around El Chalten in February 2024 and would really like to follow your routes rather than the roads. Please could I have access to the GPS files so we can be in the real nature, not just the road? :-)

*'''delabien''' Dear Jan, I am very inspired by your manual. My partner and I plan to travel for 4 months starting from the capital Santiago going slowly to the south (starting in November 2023). Thus we would like to hike some of the sections you and the other collaborators assembled. In order to make the expedition more feasible for us we intent to use the local public transportation for some parts. Really looking forward to experience the changing landscapes during the route. Thank you

*'''wbarab''' Hi Jan, thank you for all the extensive and detailed work put into this manual. My partner and I (American & Spanish)plan to hike the GPT from mid November 2023 until late February or March 2024. So far GPT 6-12, 14-16, 19, and 32-40 have stood out to us as a start, but our investigations continue and we plan to add at least another half dozen sections (plus some "maybes" if time permits)! To continue we would really appreciate access to the trackfiles.

*'''ranulph24''' Hi Jan, great manual! Thank you for putting so much passion in this project. I consider hiking on the GPT in November 2024 - April 2025. I am mainly aiming for the northern part 5 - 30 and add a smaller section in the south. For refining my plans I would like to study the GPS Track Files in detail.

*'''MMartinez''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for this incredible amount of work. It is really inspiring and exciting. We are a couple (American and Polish) and we are interested in hiking some of the sections of the GPT later this year. We have been reading the manual and adjusting and readjusting plans the more we learn (there's so much to learn!) We would really appreciate access to the track files to help with the planning. Thank you so much again!

*'''SeanMaskill''' Hi Jan, Thanks for all of your work! I've wanted to hike sections of the GPT for a few years. I've now started the research seriously and tracks would help me decide which sections I'd like to hike. Cheers Sean.

*'''MarmotAndBear''' Dear Jan, Thank you for putting in so much dedicated work, to create the Hiker’s Manual, and in doing so helping others to hike and appreciate this part of the world. We are a German-Singaporean couple and we have been following the GPT community for almost one year now. We have quit our jobs not long ago and have started visiting Central Asia, where we’ve been able to do some amazing hikes. Before setting foot on the GPT this coming (southern) summer, we are planning to improve our Spanish in other South American countries. We hope a few weeks of dedicated learning will do the trick. Once on the trail, we are planning to hike and packraft as much of the GPT as we can during the coming season. Let’s see how far our feet and boat will carry us :)

*'''guaraches80''' Hello and good afternoon Jan. I have been reading and preparing for some sections of the trail you have put together. I, a Mexican American, and a Colombian friend will be backpacking through Brazil and later to Argentina in the coming months and we would love to see some of the wonderful trails you and others have experienced. Obviously, because of our backgrounds we both speak fluent Spanish and have years of backpacking, hiking and bushcrafting experience. This is something I look forward to with the uptmost energy and so will eagerly await the track files to begin further in-depth planning. Thank you for your time. Until next time!

*'''blissfulmisgivings''' Hi Jan, Thank you for providing so much detailed and helpful information about the GPT! We (two Americans) are excited to try packrafting portions of the GPT beginning in November 2023. The guidance you've provided in the manual has already been invaluable to our preparations, and we look forward to reviewing and using the GPT track files in our journey. Thanks again!

*'''YannickCOLL''' Hi Jan, Thank you very much for your work and your dedication to the GPT. We are immersing in the GPT universe with pleasure and a growing sense of adventure. We are a couple (French and Belgian) and we’re looking to hike some sections of the GPT between mid-November 2023 until April 2024 (Sections: 1-12 / 16 / 19 / 32-40). These are the sections that we selected so far and that we are more attracted to, knowing that of course it can change. We were wondering if you could grant us access to the GPS tracks in order for us to prepare for the GPT. We understand that this is an unofficial trail and that it is still a work in progress and we are eager to help in any way we can to continue to build this ‘trail’. Nolwenn & Yannick

*'''daniel.s''' Hi Jan, amazing work with the Hiker's Manual! I hope to meet some of you on the trail next season. I'm planning to do some of the packrafting sections starting at GPT 17. The track files would be very helpful to make it an unforgettable experience. Greetings from Austria, Daniel

*'''hevike''' Hello fellow hiking community, I'm Jens from Germany looking into hiking sections of the GPT this November until the end of February. Thanks for the amazing work you all have put into this project and I'm looking forward to contribute myself.

*'''MartinGilles''' Hola Jan, soy Martin de Belgica y estoy planeando hacer una parte del GPT al principio de noviembre hasta el 20 de diciembre. Me gustaria tener the GPS tracks para organisarme y ver lo que me conviene mas. Muchas gracias por lo que hiciste y para permitir la exploracion de esta parte del mundo. Un placer, Martin.

*'''Marc Altena''' Hi Jan, thanks for all your hard work exploring the hidden trails of Patagonia. I'm hoping to do sections 6 to 10, 16 to 22 and 32 to 40 early next year. The GPS tracks would be helpful. Tanks in advance for sending them. Kind regards, Marc

*'''Lorenzo''' Hi Jan, I don't have specific plans concerning the GPT yet, but that might change soon. After the reading the first 300 pages of your guidebook it seems to me like a real challenge and an unforgettable experience at the same time. I'll call it a dream to hike at least parts of it, and extensive planning is the first step to make your dreams come true.

*'''Joscha97''' Hi Jan, I gonna travel to Chile in the beginning of next year and I am really fascinated by the idea of the GPT. I would love to hike some parts of it, starting in Santiago. Thanks for all the work you put into this project. Greetings

*'''Larix84''' Hello Jan, he hablado contigo con whatsapp hace 2 semanas Mi proyecto de trail para el ano que viene se confirma, un saludo'''

*'''Noemie''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for making us discover those incredible paths and landscapes in an ethical way. I have been hiking in Chilean Patagonia for a few months now and I wish to keep discovering the region more deeply by hiking through a few sections of the GPT, especially GPT36H (ruta de los Pioneros). Depending on how this goes, and on the weather conditions, I may try to go further north around sections 08-09. Thanks for all your work, the resources you provided have been super helpful!

*'''TheRebel''' Hey Jan thanks for the big package of information you provide with tha website/pdf I'm in Argentina since 3 months and hiked many km in the official and more marked areas (bariloche, bolson, esquel, el Chaltén, El Calafate, Ushuaia and more) and now I'm on the way back north and wanna end up in Bolivia or maybe even Columbia in the next 6 months... I've heard about your site from a Canadian guy who did some sections more north and I thought it would be nice to do some more trails in a little more remote areas on my way north
Greatings TheRebel

*'''Jen''' Hi Jan and so, so many thanks for all the incredible work you have done here. I am currently in Peru and planning to fly south to begin the beginning of GPT01 in the next few weeks and see how long I can walk for before things become too off season. I will halt and recommence when the season comes back in. If I manage to journey to Punta Arenas in the end, whenever this might be, then I am happy! Thank you, Jen.

*'''Ollie''' Hello Jan. I am from Wales and currently is
Brazil after sailing here from Europe. My plan is to work my way towards southern Argentina where I will stop and work for a while. Hopefully improving my Spanish, get to know the culture more and spend my weekends in the mountains to prepare. The idea is to start from Tierra Del Fuego, head north and just take it step by step. The manual has been a great read thank you for being so thorough. Love it. Cheers.

*'''Silke & Hans''' Hello, We are a Belgian couple currently on a multiyear bikepacking, trekking & mountaineering trip through South-America. We'd been looking forward to do some sections of the GPT for a long time. We are currently in Chile Chico, and planning to do the GPT35 section. We probably want to do some more sections further South.

*'''Jakub+Veronika''' Hi Jan, we're a couple from Czechia, currently almost one month in Chile getting to know the country, it's history and it's people's culture. We'd like to hike some parts of the GPT south from Puerto Montt, where we are based right now. Thanks for this awesome work!

*'''Alan''' Hola Jan! I'm Alan from California. I'm interested in doing GPT32 and GPT33H. Thanks for all the resources you have provided so far!

*'''Diegoara''' Hi! My name is Diego and I am from Chile and I'm interested in the GPT to do de GPT18 & GPT19, i would be a little more than a week, i think that is amazing the work that you do making this GPT in my country.Thanks!

*'''Jess&Paco''' Hey Jan ! We are from France and we would love to hike the GPT between march and april 2023. We plan to connect a few sections in the great lakes region (between section GPT45 and GPT35, south to north) for about a month. And if the weather is favorable, we would explore in april a little bit of the nothern parts of the GPT (volcanos region) but without necessarily connecting steps, while being around for a workaway. Thanks a lot for all this work !

*'''blklb''' Hi Jan! I'll be leaving for Chile in a few days and would like to do bits and pieces of the sections between Curico and Conaripe, perhaps farther south. I'll be combining trekking with time spent in towns/cities. This is going to be a leisurely exploration of the GPT, with the possiblity of a longer GPT-specific trip in the future. Thanks!

*'''Joachim''' Holà Jan! I'm Joachim from France. I'm coming to Chile in a few weeks, and found your website with a lot of valuable informations on this beautiful itinerary! I don't have a fixed plan yet but my idea is to start around Santiago and go South until winter begins. I'd love to get a hand on those gpx files to help me plan properly, I'll be happy to share feedback when coming home. Many thanks for all the work you put in!

*'''Johnny1968''' Hi Jan! We are a couple from Italy and want to to start mid february 2023 from Santiago for the GPT. We have 2 months of time and want to see how far we get, without hurry, soaking up nature and culture. Thanks for the manual and creating the track files, great respect for the ethics!

*'''derameisenbaer''' Hi, two people from Germany. We'll be hiking part of the GPT (GPT06-GPT12) in February. If there's time left we might be able to hike part of the more southern sections as well. Really looking forward to it and really aprreciate the great work on this page and the Hikers Manual!

*'''ebse''' Hello, I'm Ed from England. Would love to help contribute to this mammoth project by hopefully walking GPT01 - GPT20ish in late 2023. Looks like a remarkable experience all round; I'd be very grateful to be part of it.

*'''Martio''' Saludos, soy Martial ! landing on jan. 14th for a 2 month journey into Chilean natural wonders. I plan to hike a selection of northern GPT sections between 1 and 22. Plans purposely open for this first experience and can't wait to get involved in the community. Ps: Jan, you rock !

*'''Clemgbl''' I'm Clement from France. Currently hiking in Chile from month, I would like to continue my trek on the GPT next month (january and February 2023). I plan to start in Coyhaique and hike until El Chalten (GPT 31 to GPT 40).

*'''Jcoxxx''' I'm Jeff from Alaska. Hopefully I'll be hiking and packrafting section 17 to 39, starting this January. I'm really excited to be a part of this project and share my trackfiles.

*'''Eleebeatriz''' Hi, I'm Elena from Chile. On the 27th of this month we are going to carry out the Gpt7, we will enter through the "Puente Ingles" , in San Fabian de Alico, up to the Polcura mountain range, in Antuco. Greetings and I hope in January I will be editing what I have done to share it with you!

*'''MarcGPT''' Hola! Last year while hiking around Cochrane, I learned about the GPT. Looking forward to return and contribute to the GPT manual.

*'''Franzz''' Hi! I'm Franzz from Switzerland. I'm planning to thru-hike my own version of the GPT next year. Using your tracking files would be a great help planning the itinerary :) I would be more than happy to share back my own track files and experiences once I'm back.

*'''Nicktravels_''' Hey mate, I'm Nick - i'm planning on a hike/packraft of mumtiple segments with my three amigos. Leave only footprints is a big part of our travelling philosophy and I have a lot of respect for the ethos you carry through the information provided.

*'''Timo''' Hi, I'm Timothée. I'm French but also from Munich Germany! I plan on being in Chile beginning of next year and on doing someof the sections (probably 6-22, 32-40 more or less). I'm super impressed by all the gathered and explained documentations and advices form the Manual and would love to contribute !

*'''zozo''' Hi, my name is Zohar. I'm from Israel and plan on doing some trekking in Patagonia in January 2023. planning to do parts of the GPT from south to north starting at section 46.

*'''florianluca''' Hi, my name is Florian. I'm from Germany and plan on doing some trekking in Chile at the Beginning of next year (2023). I appreciate the work that went into this project and would like to use some of it for planning some of our tour.

*'''willcampbell444''' Hi, I'm Will from Canada. I'm interested in hiking some of the trail as I make my way south through Chile! I was thinking of starting at section 6 in mid December, depending on the weather. I really appreciate all the work done putting together the trail, and I hope to contribute with my track files and notes.

*'''Dallas''' Hi, I´m Dallas, from Berkeley, California, USA. I am interested in planning a trip in early 2023 to explore the beauty of Patagonia and indulge in my passion for slow, human-powered travel. This trip is open-ended and intentionally meandering, and the GPT looks like an excellent basis of exploration.

*'''Nicopo''' Hi, I´m Nicolás, from Buenos Aires. My girlfriend and I have been hiking in Patagonia for the last few years and we are planning on hiking sections of the GPT from December to February. We are already getting started with our planning and are looking forward to contributing with what we can. Thank you!

*'''Newt, Birdie, and Possum''' Hi! We are on our way back to Patagonia for the third time. The three of us have hiked in Patagonia and many other places in the world together. We will have 1 month to hike a portion of the GPT, specifically focusing on 33H -38H going northbound. We are inspired by this document and we can't wait to become contributing members of this community. Thank you!

*'''pgantier''' Hi, I'm Pierre from France. I discovered Chile and South America 5 years ago during an exchange semester and look forward to going back there for a long trip (within the next 5 years for around 12 months). I would love to do some part of the Greater Patagonian trail during this future gap year and I want to prepare well it advance to continue to get experience to be ready for this gread adventure !

*'''Jonny6k''' Hi, im planning on hiking some sections of the GPT from late December until March (or until i get tired!) I am planning on sections 6-22, but nothing is certain yet. I hope to add to the track files and contribute with some notes regarding the trails. i look forward to arriving in chile! Jonny

*'''felagund''' Hello, I would like to hike the GPT in December-February, from Santiago till as far as I can get and as long as a I enjoy it. So I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 till about 40, even though I probably won't reach that far. I am a contributor to OSM so I was thinking that would be my main form of contribution, though I would not want to put paths that are disputed there of course. Tomas

*'''Arnaudlacoste''' Hello Jan! I have been a big fan of the GPT for some years now. I just moved back to Chile after living for the past 8 years in Europe and would love to discover a few sections of the GPT. I will be settling in Araucania region so I would love to have access to the track files and plan which sections I will immerge myself into. I hope I can also contribute to it and meet some of the community in the following months/years. Thanks you and the community for this marvelous work! Cheers, Arnaud.

*"ChristopherT"Hello! Christopher from Austria here. My girlfriend Anna from Germany and I are planning to do the gpt. We are still trying to figure out which sections we would like to trek.We definetly want to explore and hike in Feuerland though.We would very much appreciate the track files to help us with our decision and on our journey. I hope we can contribute a bit as well. Thank you!
Cheers,
Christopher and Anna

* '''Matous'''Hi everyone! Here Matous and Johana. Couple from Czechia. We are planning to hike some sections on GPT at the beginning of next year. We are interested in GPT06 - 22. The track files would be great help in planning. And thank you for amazing work. We´ll be happy to contribute.

* '''guilhermealexs''' Hi! Guilherme Alexsander here from Brazil. Me and some friends are planning to walk some parts of the GPT. We are currently interested in the Los Quenes - Central Cipreces section. I'd like to get the track files to help us with planning. Thanks!

*"nmakepeace" Hello everyone, Natalie here from Canada, thank you to Jan and everyone for their contributions! My plan is to hike southbound on the GPT starting at Termas del Flaco (connect@ GPT05) because I want to do some specific mountains in Central Chile first. I may also look into connecting Volcán Maipo to coya. To make this all easier and more safe I would be not only grateful for the GPS files but honored! Start: mid/late December until begining of March. Hope to hear tales from you all soon!

* '''rom1dwker''' My girlfriend and I will cycle southward patagonian roads and ripio from mid december 22 to mid february 23, and we plan to maybe hike some sections of the GPT, especially the ones in Jenimeini where we have already been a few years ago, dependind on how everything goes with the cycling and and the roads we will actually take.

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike on GPT from January till March 2023. We are on a gap year after our studies, and during that time we would love to enjoy the wilderness of Patagonia. We are planning to first do some singular sections and after gaining some knowledge and experience in Patatagonia hiking, we would like to do some longer distances. We are also exited to combine it with hitchhiking to minimalize environmental impact.

* '''hannahp24''' My partner Eric & I will hike GPT 32-36 in Dec-Jan 2022/2023. Excited to explore new places and give guidance to what we find here.

* '''Jmcantin''' Hi Jan, thanks for the hard work in this awesome guide! I am planning a Southbound hike of the GPT from Santiago de Chile in January 2023 for a couple of months. I would love to have the track files to properly plan my route. Thank you for your help :)

* ''' bforselv''' Hello guys, my wife and I live north of the Artic Circle in Norway and we are planing to go to Chile for hiking January and February. We want to do sections of the GPT.

* ''' Ishaysachs(Ishay)''' Hello Jan! Ishay from Israel here. Just finished the PCT and looking forward to do some sections of the GPT this January-March. Would love to get access to the files in order to plan my route (: thank you for putting so much effort into this. That's an incredible project and I can't wait to start hiking and share the journey with this great community.

*''' greenh3624 (Helen and Craig)''' Hello Hello Jan. Thank you so much for providing all this incredible information from the manual, we are both super grateful and are looking forward to contributing. Looking in to sections GPT 16- 05/06 for 2023 and hopefully some southern route sections from there. Just a quick comment to request track files. Your manual is incredible by the way. Mil gracias!

* ''' Christophe (Alex & Christophe)''' Hi Jan! Thanks a lot for all this informations and for your work. We are now travelling in south America with our van and are planning to sell it and start to hike the GPT in December 2023 for 2 or 3 month. This track files would help us a lot to plan this incredible adventure.

*'''miguelvdvelden (Miguel)''' Hola Jan! I’m in awe of everything you’ve put together for the GPT. It’s so comprehensive and as a sustainability student I am grateful for the focus on both the environmental and social sustainability of the region and its communities. I am hoping to hike or packraft a part of the GPT over six weeks or so in Jan-Feb 2023. I am in full planning mode now, hence my request here. Muchas gracias por todo. Abrazo.

*'''nico142857''' Hola Jan! Hace un tiempo habia leido parte del manual y veo que ahora esta actualizado. Desde ese momento que quede maravillado con la rigurosidad de tu trabajo y lo sigo haciendo ahora. Me suscribo a esta lista para poder obtener los track files, pues me interesa recorrer algunas secciones en las proximas vacaciones de verano 2022/2023. Estare muy agradecido si lo puedes mandar. Saludos desde Chile!. nicolas.

*'''Lore Olivares''' Hola Jan, gracias por compartir esta valiosa información. Soy de Chile y junto a mi amigo queremos hacer la parte norte del GPT desde Santiago. Te agradeceré mucho si nos puedes compartir los datos GPX. Muchas gracias de antemano.
*'''annéesympathique;) (Rémy D.)''' Hi guys, I‘m a student from Belgium and I plan to walk the GPT from december to march. That’s why having the GPX track files would help me realize this project. A big respect about all the work behind the GPT.
* ''' TOBEL ''' Congratulations to the GPT Hikers Manual. I am from Germany and a bit older then the most here. This year I will hike some parts of the GPT, so I would like to get the gpx files.

* ''' Michaelstabile (Mike & Avery) Hi, Thanks for compiling all of this information. We are Backpacking and Pack rafting Guides in Alaska. We are planning to start in 2023 and Continue through all the way back to Alaska. Hiking, bike packing, Packrafting and sea kayaking. Having this track files would be incredible for us helping with planning for this section of our journey.

* ''' Martin&Helena (Martin.h)''' Hello guys! Thanks for the amazing work you’re doing with the GPT. We are a couple from Prague, Czech republic, planning to start hiking from the beginning of December, most likely until the end of March. We would use the track files for planning our hike and navigation. Thank you, Martin&Helena

* '''EDAWILSON (Ed)''' Hello! We are a couple from Scotland who are heading to Patagonia for a couple of months hiking this October/ November, and we are looking to incorporate some elements of the GPT into our trip. 2022 conditions permitting, we will likely explore some sections of the Fjord route; as well as Glacier Chica to El Chaltén; and fingers crossed some sections south of here. I would love to overlay the track files over GE for a better planning experience. We love the spirit of the community you are building here! Great work!

* '''Ridgepathpictures (Jani)''' Hi! Myself and a couple of friends are planning a packrafting trip in Patagonia at the start of 2023. We will be dipping in and out of the regular packrafting route, so sections 17 to 39. The aid of the track files would be greatly appreciated. I'm honestly astounded by the work you have put into this trail, it's truly very inspiring.

* '''Slingshot (Jeremy)''' Hi! My soon to be wife and I are planning a 3 month trek from GPT05 southbound and would greatly benefit from the GPT track files. Thank you so much for your hikers manual and for providing access to these files. It has already greatly benefited us.

* '''Alexis (dm) & Iris''' Hello! We are a 29/28 years old couple from France and are starting a sabbatical in South America for a year in December. We are landing in Puntas Arenas and would like to hike our way, on the GPT or not, through Chile up to the Ecuador. To better plan our trip, we would like to access the GPT track files and are obviously willing to contribute to the initiative. Many thanks.

*'''Max''': Hello, I am from Germany and I really like to hike. Next year, I plan to hike from Santiago de Chile all the way down to Ushuaia with a Packraft. To do that, I would like to get the gpx files, so I can choose from the routes. Thank you for all of this.

*'''Ted''': Hi guys, I'm a 33 year old austrian guy and I plan to hike a few sections of the GPT in October and November. it would be great if i could have the gpx data so i can plan the routes better. great community

*'''Chris and Tara''': Hello!!! We are husband and wife, being 33 and 26 years old respectively. We plan to walk from Barilloche to Santiago incorporating large sections of the GPT. There are no fixed plans for sections and times, just to fully immerse our selves in Patagonia, it’s people and way of life. Thank you and all those who have contributes for your incredible work so far, I look forward to being able to contribute for others to enjoy!

**'''Wannes''': Hello, I'm a 31 year old belgian who plans a two week trek/run in the beginning of November. I would love to do a part of the GPT. Could I receive the gpt tracks to decide which part would be ok to do? Kind regards. Wonderfull work!

*'''Yannic & Mirjam''': Hello together. We are Yannic and Mirjam and since one year on a world trip. We plan to spend a few months in Patagonia next and hike parts of the GPT. Which parts exactly we are currently still working out. Would it be possible to get the GPS tracks? Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''AdriKunz''': Hello, first of all, a huge thank for all your amazing work. I am so grateful for this sharing which will allow me I hope to live a unique experience. I'm a actually working in French Guyana, but were looking for an immersive hick before living this continent. I finally came across this extraordinary adventure, which I think corresponds to me in every way. I plan to try the GTP from Santiago to part 14 or 15 of the GPT in a month and a week. I intend to start the hike in mid november. May i aske you the GPT track of thoses parts ?

*'''Avisito''': Finally going for it - December 2022! Plan to start at GPT05 and go south for several weeks - would love to start exploring the GPS track files. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

*'''Veronica''': Hello, I am Canadian and will be spending six months in South America from October 2022 to March 2023. While I am there I would love to spend a few of these months hiking various portions of the GPT, which is why I would love to obtain the GPS track files. Thank you so much for all this work and to all those who have compiled all this information. I am very much appreciative of all of this!

*'''Andes et Tentes''': Hello, we are 3 french students taking a year off to explore South America. We are planning to explore Patagonia between February and April 2023 by hiking on some specific sections of the GPT. That's why we are asking for the GPS tracks. Many thanks for the huge work achieved ! It is impressively detailed and complete !

*'''ondra''': Hello! My name is Ondrej and I am from the Czech Republic. I have been reading about Jan's and others' experiences on the GPT for the past two years. I will finally have a chance to walk a part of the trail myself in January - March 2023. I am adding myself to the list to kindly request the track files. Thank you Jan for putting this together.

*'''Mat''': Hi! from France. I’m planning a few months hiking trip to discover south America. I’ll most probably walk parts of the Gpt (as much as I can). I would be grateful to receive the necessary gpx files. Thank you for the this very huge and inspiring work.

*'''Alice & Florian''': Hola! We are Alice & Florian, a french couple who love hiking. We who will travel in South America and especially in Chile in September and October this year (2022), and we read about the GPT and some blogs, which really peaked our interest. Our project is to walk going south along the GPT for about a month, somewhere between September and November. After reading the hiker's manual, we came here in order to do access the GPX files and prepare deeper our project. Muchas Gracias para todo este trabalho.

*'''Thomas - Chilzin, Brah!''': Hola! I'm a thru hiker planning to do a large part of the GPT mostly continuously before heading north on a huge trip to explore South America. I really appreciate this resource and will do my best to contribute before and while I'm on trail. Thank you!

*'''Aneso''': Hola! I'm Aneso, a French woman who loves hiking. I heard about the GPT while doing research following my plan to go to South America for 1 year.
My project on the GPT being to leave from the south in the direction of the north, over a period of 1 month (or even a little more) from January 2023.
In my research I am missing the exact GPX files for my GPS.
Thank you in advance and congratulations again for all the work provided and to which we have access.

*'''Ariane''': Hola! I'm French and I will be hiking in Patagonia in April (and perhaps May); my plans are not yet well defined but I'd like to follow parts of the GPT on my way northward. Thanks for your super useful work!

*'''OriolGirona''': Hola! I'm from Barcelona but living at nearby Girona. Love hiking and cycling, being my longer tours so far between 4 and 6 weeks on the trail. I hear about the GPT two years ago while looking for new ideas during covid lockdown. I already read the manual a couple of times, and I am thrilled to travel to Santiago next November / December for a couple of month, probably starting from section 1. And at this point of planning I will apreciate to have the GPX tracks to get deeper into this process. Awesome work. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''JuanchoUgarte''': Hola! I'm a Chilean guy that loves hiking. I hear about the GPT a few years ago. This year while doing the Travesia Cerro Castillo realized that it was part of the GPT and decided to start planning to do it on summer 2023. During 2021 did the GR11 in Spain and want to do something in Chile this time (the GPX tracks would be very useful for all the planning) Probably will start near Parque Inglés. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''LeanderDc''': Hey hey, we're a crew of 3 hiking-friends from Belgium and Chile. We're planning on walking a part of the GPT starting from around Cochamó till O'Higgins, probably taking some ferries and hitchhikes in between. We're starting to refine our exact route, by reading the manual and analyzing google earth, and would hugely benefit from the exact GPX files. Thanks in advance!

*'''rowanl''': Hello, I'm an avid hiker from Canada looking to explore trails along the carretera austral especially around Cerro Castillo National Park. I hope to use the track files to help refine my plans. I appreciate all the information provided, Thank you!

*'''meotr''': Hi! I'm a french engineer planning to hike some parts of the main route between mid-february and mid-march during a 3-4 months period in Chile and Argentina. Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''Sergio''': Hi! I live in Santiago and I'm planning on hiking some of the first GPTs on early February and hopefully some of the southern parts later on. Thank you very much for all the work you have put into this, it's an incredible thing what you have done!!

*jdhanlon/Jen and Vince''': Hi! I am planning to hike and packraft a number of sections this season, from Jan - March 2022. Thank you for all your efforts and guidance in sharing information about the trail network!

*'''Gianluca/Cerna_Beltz''': Salve a tutti, Hi!! I'm italian and I'm planning to hike some part of the GPT from the end of january to mars/avril. Thank you so much for all this information and for your attitude!

*'''José''': Hi!!. I'm chilean and im planning to hike the GPT05 - 22 southbound. I would really apreciate to have access to the track files. Thank you so much for doing this, its awesome!

*'''Carlos and Ivan''': Hellow. We'll be in Chile in january and february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thank you for your great work!

*'''Mariia and Misha''': Hi! We are two Russian flying to Argentina in end of December. Fully equipped for packrafting. Planed start January 5, 2022 from Lago Puelo southbound. Sections: 1. GPT23-25P Rio Frey and Lago Amutui Quimei. 2. Then flying to Chile and resume GPT26-28P 3. GPT30P-32 4. GPT33H-35 5. GPT36P 6. 36H Northbound. End before March 25. I would be very greatful for the track files. Thank you so much for your awesome guide and work!

*'''Mawel''': Hello, I'm planning to hike the GPT or at least a part of it. Idealy, I'd like to start from Ushuaïa and travelling up north along the cordilliera. Anything concrete yet but I'm sure the track files will be very helpful to prepare this journey as best as I can.

*'''Alexey''': I will start my trip on 29.11.2021 from Lago Todos Los Santos to the North, until Lago Ranco.

*'''Matthias&Janna''': We will hike parts of the GPT in december - february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Franck''': I will hike parts of the GPT with a friend in december and january, we're interested in GPT05 to 12, 19 to 22 and 32 to 36. Thanks for the great work !! Can't wait to put my shoes on : D

*'''Nathaniel''': I will be in Chile for a few months starting in December 2021. I am considering packrafting in the vicinity of the Western Fjord Traverse (GPT90P-GPT92P) as well as hiking/packrafting a section of the main route of the GPT in Zones H and I (possibly including GPT32-40).

*'''Laurent and Maxime''': Hi there! We are two Canadians flying to Chile in January. We are fully equiped with lightweight equipment for packrafting, endure all sorts of weather and accomplish a great trip on the greater patagonian trail! We have 3 months to travel and we are very grateful of all the precious information you offer us ! Thank you very much !

*'''Rebeca y Cristián''': Buenas tardes Jan! Estuvimos conociendo distintos lugares de la décima región desde inicios del 2021, "aprovechando" las cuarentenas. Ahora estamos planeando un viaje más largo, el cual incluye packraft. Nos encantaría acceder a los archivos para planificar mejor. Desde ya, muy agradecidos.

*'''David Batguano''': Good day all. I am heading to Chile at the end of November 2021 to get some hiking in, obviously. Fist I am completing the O circuit at Torres del Paine, then will hopefully complete some of the easier sections of the GPT(I do not wish to bushwack or prove a point). I have no time constraints and will just go where I wish at a leisurely pace. I am on page 400 of the hikers manual working on routing. Though difficult, Jan's work so far is an unbelievable resource.

*'''Vera & James''': Hi all! We are planning to head over to Chile for 3 months Jan - Mar 2022 and plan to hike on the GPT. Planning is ongoing but current thinking is start at Puyehue and work north. The main motivation is to be in the mountains/wilderness for a period of time. The manual is an incredible resource! Thanks!

*'''Tobias''': Hi Jan, I'm flying into Chile on the 1 of November. My plan is to hike southwards from Frutillar to El Chaltén and visit Schools along the way. I would be very greatful for the track files GPT 22-40. Thank you so much for your amazing work!

*'''Kris&Stiina''': Greetings, we are going to Chile in November and we plan to hike some sections of the GPT. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike and logistics. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Helmut and Beatrice''': Hi JAN, we are planning to spend two months in Patagonia at the beginning of next year. We want to hike around 1000 km and the tracking data would be a great help for us to choose appropriate sections and plan our hiking adventure. High praise for the great manual!

*'''HolKann & Peanutje''': Hey all, we're planning to visit Chile in January 2022, and hope to hike parts of the GPT for the better part of (at least) 3 months. Our most recent hiking experience was the [https://thepindosway.com Pindos way] in Greece, which consisted of finding "the shadow of an old mule path" to get up or down a mountain ridge, which taught us how to handle packs of angry shepherd dogs, and which forced on us a crash course in rudimentary Greek (as we would have gone hungry otherwise). We hope to get to know Patagonia and its people in the same way, except that our Spanish skills should be a bit better.

*'''Stephan''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, i'm planning to do the GPT 22,Lago todos los santos, from Petrohue to Cochamo, hiking and packrafting. I have planned to go on October 2021. Thanks for the great work!
*'''Stéphane''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, planing a trail trip next summer in Patagonia walking from Villa Cerro Castillo to Villa o Higgins. Could you please Jan send mi the track files beetween Villa Cerro Castillo and Pto Ibanez passing through Torres el Avellano ? GPT33H. Thx a lot and long life to yout project ! Hug

*'''Martin and Kim''': Hi, we are planning to spend two oder three months next year in Patagonia. We want to hike round about 1200 km there and the track file would be very helpful to choose sections and plan our adventure. Thanks for the great manual!

*'''Vicente''': Hi, I'm planning on doing the GPT this spring of 2021, I've done other long trails through Patagonia so I want to take it to the next level. I believe this trail has a great potential to become an icon for my country and its beautiful mountains. I need the track files to prepare the adventure.

*'''Marc''' : We are two guys from Denmark who are hoping to spend a couple of months on the GPT, if possible we will begin this december. We are eager to get our hands on the track files to help us plan which sections to hike. We have a great amount of respect for all the work you have done to make this adventure possible!

*'''Simoncashyt''' : Me and my friend are Planning to spend 2.5 months in the area this December. Hoping to get this Track file and review the trail in gis with other historic route databases to really understand the sections topography, climates and route options to explore off the track file.

*'''Bastian Klein''' : I am a university student from Germany and currently only have vague plans for my hike. With the Covid situation still going on its still to be determined when I will actually get to go hiking, but I think the track files will help me a lot with planing. Greatly appreciate the work done on the GPT manual !.

*'''Tim''' : We are a couple from Germany and around new year we plan to spend a few weeks in the area around GPT05 to GTP07. If possible we might return some time to see southern patagonia as well for multiple months.

*'''Léo''' : I plan to travel one year in Chile from sept 2021 ; I want to start from Puertomontt to reach Santiago (in a whole year, so taking my time), and hike some sections of the GPT ! I have not chosen which exacts sections yet.

*'''Nadfero''': Mi plan is to divide the route in two or three sections, and hike it in the 2021-2022-2023 summers. Obviously it all depends on the covid situation. There is no harm in planning!

*'''Cristóbal''': Estoy aprovechando la cuarentena para estudiar la ruta y comenzar a hacer tramos en la medida que se levanten las restricciones sanitarias este 2021 y 2022.

*'''Jo and Ty''': We are a couple planning to trekk for 3 months or so on the GPT. 2021/2022 depends on Covid 19 situation. Propably starting somewhere at GPT08. We are still in the beginning of planning. We require the track files for a lot of planning and for navigating on the trek it self. We are pretty excited!

*'''Molly og Melissa''': We are two friends, from Denmark. We plan to hike most parts of group B, C and D in December 2021 - February 2022

*'''Patagonico''': Years ago i did the ruta de los pioneros now i would like to complete the GPT in the next few years.

*'''Les Amériques au fil de l'eau''': We are a french couple, planning to use the trail from Puerto Montt to Santiago in 2021-2022 and to realize two short documentary films about wetlands and about the women of America
*'''O Bicho Geográfico''': Para fines de investigación científica, Abril de 2021.
*'''Max Nemeth''': November to Mid-March 21/22, sections to be determined. Thank you for the amazing work on this route!
*'''Memo mcrash''': GPT10 and GPT11. I plan to do it in March with some friends. We are very grateful for the work you have done. Thank you! Guillermo.
*'''nico142857''': GPT01 and GPT02. Im planning to hike these 2 sections on March, and gpx's routes surely will help a lot. Thanks!
*'''MauricioDM''': I am planning to hike the whole trail in parts, but I am not sure where to begin, the GPX will help . Thanks.
*'''Nico busch''': GPT33H. Planning on doing the Torres del Avellano hike. Thanks.
*'''Bjornsether''': GPT 01 to 40. I've been planning a long-distance hike in Chile for some time. February-April 2021 might allow me to spend time on the GPT.
*'''AJForno''':, GPT 01 to 40, I live in Chile and have done some sections, and plan to keep exploring, Thank you! Andres
*'''Thom&Miky''': Hi, we are two friends planning to walk from febrary to april 2021 and we will try to reach from south to north the GPT 14 to GPT 01. Thank you! Thomas and Michael

*'''WhatDoesMyHeartTellMe''': I am very much interested in GPT 01 to 40. I plan to trek in 2021-2022. This endeavor requires a tremendous amount of planning. I hope you can grant me the track files. Thanks very much!

*'''Tom Corbett''': Januray 2021, hiking and packrafting sections of GPT 26 to GPT 33.

*'''Rperezdearce ''': Hi, With my girlfriend we will leave the first days of Nov 2020 from Santiago with the intention of reaching GPT12, then we will try to continue further south.

*'''Tobi & Fang''': Hiking and potentially packrafting in the <s>2021/2022, 2022/2023</s> 2023/2024 season.

*'''Freek van Keulen (Freek)''': Plan to hike 2021-2022 season, starting preparations and research now

*'''Joaquin Munoz (jqnmunozdiaz)''': Plan to hike sections GPT32-40 southbound on summer 2020-2021 if covid allows. I will likely hike some northern sections as well.

*'''Quamen''': I am dreaming to hike the GPT01-16 and to hiking/packrafting GPT17-40 southbound this austral summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Frambues''': Starting at the end of 2020 if Covid lets. Not sure yet which part to do in one season, but probably start in Santiago.

*'''Ferdinand''': Hi, Ferdinand from germany, I'd like to hike southbound starting from GPT 05 from Dec 2020 - Apr 2021 and see how far I can get. The GPS files would help a lot planning everything more in detail, thanks!

*'''Víctor Valenzuela''': GTP 05-19: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 05-19 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Isaac Garza (Try431)''': Planning to hike southbound GPT season from ~December 2020 through ~March/April 2021 (weather/COVID permitting). At the moment, planning to do GPT17P - GPT39, and track files will be very helpful in planning out in more detail :)

*'''Pipers''': Hi, I'm from Valdivia, chile, and I am planning to hike or ride in my bike the closest parts of the route, as soon as coronavirus lockdown finishes

*'''Patagoniandreams''': Planning to hike the standard route soundbound, starting at GPT10 until GPT23 and looping back nordbound via the Huella Andina. Due to the Corona crisis we postpone this endeavour to the 2021-2022 season. The hike will be done in family. We will have a 6 year old girl and a 3 year old boy with us. We have 4 months. We have been doing GPT sections back in 2008 - 2010 - 2013.

*'''Olivier1''': Planning to hike the standard route northbound, starting at GPT 40 for the 2021-2022 season.

*'''David Brophy (d.brophy)''': Planning to hike the standard route GPT01-GPT40 over two seasons starting as soon as COVID permits. Will use a pack-raft for the second season.

*'''Peter Mican (ElCondor)''': Planning to hike the GPT in 2020/2021, starting at section 01 and hike as far south as I can, depending on the weather and situations on the track. I am planning to go solo but would be happy to join with a fellow hiker(s) ;-)

*'''jojohoughton''': Planning on hiking/packrafting southbound to section 40, starting either from section 1 or section 13 depending on the conditions. Will be exploring the GPT for the summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Leonhard''': GTP 1-16: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 1-16 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Aligator''': GTP 40 to GPT32: Plannning to explore that part of the GPT in February (from 03/02) and March (flexible) with my girlfriend (we both live in Santiago). Thank you for the incredible work you've achieved gathering and updating all those information!

*'''ConnyPflaume''': GTP 14 & 15 or the area between lago Conguillo and Lago Tinquilco. We will start this weekend, 11.1.20 - would be nice we could be supplied with the map so shorthanded.

*'''felixrulz''': Will be in the Andes for around 4 months. Have already completed 3 sections, but looking to do more. Joined specifically for the Puyehue section (GPT 19)

*'''Kelly Swanson''': I plan to solo trek starting at GPT06 in January 2020, continuing till mid March.

*'''phil ro''': i will start in coihayque in mid-january and will head south for more than 4 weeks with a packraft.

*'''johannsteffen''': Going to make a backpack trip starting in February on Ushuaya and going to Bariloche in June.

*'''Claudio Miranda''': Starting from Santiago in January 2020 until April, planing to arrive at least to Chile Chico.

*'''Trinity''': Travelling to SA for 2 years and plan exploring Patagonia.

*'''pirre''': Starting in January 2020 on GPT32 and planning to hike south for 6-8 weeks. Thanks!

*'''Shn0rhelez''': Hi,I am Anton from Sofia,Bulgaria...me and my girlfriend are starting from sec6 in the middle of January...we have around four months...thank you for your remarkable work!!!

*'''Gatodelmonte''': Starting on 2 January from Santiago, planning to hike South for about 45 days & exit near Pucon (sections 1 to 15)

*'''Fedepatagon''': Like to pack raft on the area between Bariloche-Osorno and P.N Los Alerces

*'''Vincent Paquet''': My girlfriend and I are planning to spend 3 weeks walking from december 18 2019 to Jan 10 2020. We're still selecting the exact sections. Cheers!!

*'''Tmattson425''': Plan for this year is to solo trek sections 1 through 19 (southbound) starting in mid-January 2020. I'm an American expat living in Buenos Aires and plan on returning in following seasons to complete the GPT, try packrafting, and explore alternate routes. Extremely excited an grateful that this trek is possible. Thank you!

*'''SalomeS''': Planning for a 6 month trip with my husband starting in Nov/Dec 2020. Planning to hike the sections 40 to 16. We would be incredibly grateful to receive the gps track files. Thank you!

*'''Ianhikes'''* Leaving for Chile in 1 week and looking to spend a month on GPT hiking southbound.

*'''zc0rp10''': Hi! Planning and preparing for an extended hike together with two friends from November 2020 - Feb 2021.

*'''ELLI''': together with a friend we plan to hike the sections of the main route but in opposite direction starting in the area around Lago viedma in first days of January 2020, we have approx. 4 month time

*'''gorskial''': plan to bike/packraft along the carretera austral from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins with hiking side trips. Jan/feb 2020

*'''pitney''': Solo hiking GPT sections 6-22 Southbound beginning early January, 2020.

*'''dirtmonger''': GPT sections 1-24; planning underway for an immersion solo hike ‘20 November to ‘21 February.

*'''bob451''': Planning on solo hiking 2 or 3 sections of the GPT northbound March/April 2019.

*'''Mgabenesch''' : Planning on hiking most parts of the GPT, starting in Ushuaïa then going North. I have on year off. Starting Dec 2019

*'''Family Size''': Planning on hiking parts of the GPT southbound. Starting end of November 2019.

*'''shaunchurch''': Hope to solo hike/packraft a few sections southbound. Section 15 or 17 in Dec 2019. Then maybe a couple more from among sections 21-31 in Jan and Feb 2020.

*'''iank''':2 months jan and feb 2020. Hope to hike isla navarino, cirque of huemuls and then cochrane to chile chico. More northerly secions maybe 2021.

*'''dsmit3000''': Solo hiker planning on hiking GPT40-31 northbound November-January 2019.

*'''2As''': We plan to walk in Chile and Argentina from mid October 2019 to mid march 2020. We don't have precisely planned our trip but the root of our trip is to go by foot through Patagonia and also discover Chile and his people and culture.
*'''A pat''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT (Need to confirm but we are interesting in sections 08-22 and 35- 40) from January to early March 2020.
*'''Aceestrin''': We'll be exploring for 4 weeks in Los Lagos region December-January.
*'''Andrealopezb''': I plan on doing individual sections for the time being, mostly between Santiago-El Maule
*'''annbrnn''': Heya, a friend and I are planning on hiking several sections of the GPT beginning end of December 2019 and are currently in the process of determining our route.
*'''AlexEdge''': Hi, i am planning to hike the lower sections of this route with a couple friends, possibly febuary 2020. thank you!
*'''Arno507''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting fom November/December 2019 till early April 2020.
*'''Birdy ''': I plan to mostly walk from Lake Titicaca to Ushuaia starting November 2019.
*'''David''': Hello!! This is David from Barcelona and I'm planning to walk through the Patagonia for 4 month from January 2020. I would love to do all de GPT, but I'm not sure if it's too ambitious... For sure, I'll try it!! :-) I would really appreciate if you can provide me the gps track files. Many thanks!!
*'''Dubrovskiy''': 2 people, January 2020, Foot hiking southern parts, likely around GPT40-33.
*'''Edwinb''': I will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to cherry pick parts of the GPT and mix it with other trekking, basically like I did last year. Always interested in a bit of exploring, providing it doesn't get to extreme!
*'''Hendrik Niehaus''': We arrive in Chile early Oktober 2019. From November until January we plan to be on the GPT. Due to the recommendations of the hikers manual we are mainly interested in section 5-16. However, plans might still change and are not too fixed yet. Thank you in advance!
*'''Herman van Horssen''': We plan to do section 47 to 69 of the GPT in 2020.
*'''johansonst333''': Hi! I am planning the sections 30 - 40 during this hiking season, would be incredibly grateful to have the GPS files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!
*'''Jose Barros''' Hello !Im jose from Santiago de Chile, i will do the sections from Conquillio national park to Puyehue national park, its aprox. 15 days in January, i think it will be great ! If you can provide the track files i will be very thankfull.
*'''Jose Roman''': Hi, my plan is to several sections by bike or hiking staring September 2019 until Abril 2020.
*'''JUNHUI SON''': Hi, I'm from South Korea, I plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in September 2019 till November.
*'''Kendon''': I cycled Patagonia many year ago and have always wanted to return for an extended walk through this wonderful area. I am in preliminary stages of my planning and thank you for your efforts in providing such a great resource. I am looking at the 2020 summer.
*'''Martín H.I.''': Hello, I´m planning to make an attempt to hike from sections GPT01 to GPT22 this summer from December 2019 to February 2020, still deciding on the exact sections, but southbound is my direction. I´m a chilean 25 year old architect who will humbly try to hike this unique trail. Thank you Jan for the amazing creation.
*'''Martin Lizondo''': I will be hiking southbound from Anticura (GPT20) to El Chaltén (GPT39), between December 2019 and February 2020. It's my second season in the GPT, after hiking from Santiago (GPT01) to Anticura (GPT19) in 2018-2019.
*'''martinahaller''': We will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to hike parts of the GPT during the next 6 Month, starting in Santiago.
*'''Maturin''': Hi, I am currently figuring out the details to hike GPT06 to GPT08 from the 27th of December 2019 until mid January. I will be doing the Horseriding tour before. I speak fluent spanish and the idea is to go southbound. Thank you!
*'''Matúš Lašan''': We plan to do as much as possible from December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''msantelli''': Hi, Melissa, plan to trek sections 05-22 taking a chance to start mid-late Nov. of ‘19 may need to backtrack and cut a few sections out, if rivers can’t be ford/crossed-flexible schedule
*'''Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck''': We plan to investigate new packrafting and hiking routes in more remote areas between Puerto Montt and El Chalten without making a single long traverse (GPT21 to GPT40, GPT90P to GPT 92P). We will depart in November 2019 and plan to finish in February 2020. Experienced packrafts may join us for these investigations.
*'''Lauric Olrik''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting from November 2019, we have a whole year off.
*'''Lea Geibel''': Hi, my plan is to do several sections of the GPT starting fom October/November 2019 until beginning of January 2020 and need to figure out which ones are suitable for such an early start.
*'''Linda''': Hi, I am planning to hike alone southbound the GPT from beginning of December 2019 to mid-February 2020, probably from GPT06 to GPT22, but I am still studying the routes and the sections. I spoke quite good spanish, at least, it will come back there, practicing ! Thank you !
*'''Oreste Marquis''': Hello, i'm planning to hike sections 06-22 and 32-40 if time allows it. My trip will be from January to Abril 2020.
*'''Sanita Heinz''': We plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''Selma''': We are planning to packraft some sections of the GPT during our stay in Nov/Dez '19
*'''Staci Garcia''': Hello, I am planning on doing several sections of the GPT in 2020. I am still in research on what sections.
*'''TrashPanda''': Hi, we plan to do several sections from the end of November 2019 till February 2020.
*'''tom347''': Hola, I plan to do part of parts 1 to 40 with a friend, starting mid october. We will be hitchhiking the parts that are not recomended in particular months. We will be travelling for aproximately 2 months. Gracias.
*'''Tombartlett''': Hello I am planning on hiking many sections over a three month period from November 2019 to February 2020.
*'''Wanderwood18 ''': We plan to make it to El Chalten/Fitz Roy in one season from Santiago. This means I’ll probably skip recommended sections to skip/do what I need to do to make it. I’m flexible, we will see how it goes. My girlfriend, America, and I are planning on starting around Nov. 10th….
*'''LieberWeiter''' Hi, I do not know yet if I ever dare to walk the GPT but meanwhile I would like to plan therefore!
*'''Jarek Wątroba''' Hey, I will spend several months in Patagonia starting in Jan 2024. The information you provided in the Hiker's Guide is already immensely helpful, but the track files would make planning our route so much easier. Thanks.
*'''Wolke7net''' Hi, could you please send me the track without packrafting. Thanks!

*'''''DoloresMonika''''' Hi,my name is Dorota and I am from Poland. I ahve a plan to start from Santiago de Chile at 1 of December 2024. I can pass 4.5 months on the trail . Thanks for preparing this manual and description of trail.
*'''''Randomuser''''' Hi, my name is Victor and my wife and I are planning on spending 3 months in Patagonia starting Jan 25. We are planning on picking some sections to explore and will focus on the land portions, thanks!

*'''"bailey1998christopher"" hi my name is Bailey, I am planning on spending three months hiking the greater patagonia trail south bound, between December and February. Thank you for your great work and consideration. Kind regards bailey

'''wikiexplora'''