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GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2026-02-01T15:10:48Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==
'''2026-Jan-27 to 2026-Jan-31 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''

A tranquil segment; the wide open views of the pass nicely compliment the long closed-in forested sections.

Attractiveness: 4/5; Difficulty: 3/5

Camps:

Night 1: -48.11405, -72.48790 — nice spot on a beach of Lago Christie, but without any wind protection; there could be some sheltered spots in the forest right before

Night 2: Camp {36H} [110.9/500] — lovely sheltered spot on the shore of Lago Alegre

Night 3: Camp {36H} [79.9/876] — some decent flat spaces in the area amongst the trees after the initial Rio Bravo fords

Night 4: -47.62141, -72.46907 — flat sheltered spots right before the Puesto {36H} [53.1/611]

Hitches:

- I departed Villa O’Higgins at 12:00. Got two partial hitches, and a third that took me all the way to the trailhead, X {36H} [142.0/550], arriving at 15:00. On a day with nice weather during high season there seemed to be a decent number of cars driving in the direction of Lago Christie, and so a good chance on hitching all the way to the trailhead. Might be more difficult in bad weather or early/late in the season.

- I arrived to the northern trailhead at Laguna Calluqueo, X {36H} [50.0/553], around 11:00. Luckily it was a nice clear day and so there were several cars around the trailhead and at viewpoints near the Laguna. I walked on the road for a bit and quickly got a hitch from a couple that was returning to Cochrane.

Ford Conditions:

Water levels were high and currents strong after many days of warm weather contributing to snowmelt. All fords along the RR were still able to be crossed, but particularly the ones near the pass (km 81.3 to 77.4) required some trial and error to find a safe line and some careful footing. Ford {36H-B} [1.3/934] (La Picota, often not fordable) along variant B was indeed not fordable, best to stick to the RR higher up along the ridge unless early in the season.

General Notes:

- Challenges include blowdowns in the forested sections that require some CC/BB. Trail was overgrown in parts and at times easy to wander off on cow paths. Many flies on warm, windless days.

- No longer any snow on the pass

- The owner of Puesto {36H} [57.6/667] (Calloqueo) was home

- Also the couple caretaking Puesto {36H} [53.1/611] were home and invited me in for mate and some homemade queso and jam, warm and friendly people.

* '''2026-01-28 to 2026-01-31 / 4 days / Packrafting / Loop / RP /OP 23 / Daniel.s'''

In short: I started in Cochrane paddled on the lake eastbound until Lake {36H} [52.6/155] (Lago Cochrane), hiked to Lago Brown and paddled Rios Tranquilo and Del Salto to get back towards Cochrane, finished at X {36H-04A} [7.7/314].

Day 1: with 2,5 days of very calm and hot weather ahead I started paddling the little upriver section out of Cochrane, river in at Lake {35} [154.1/156]. The current in the upper parts were too strong for the single packraft to be overcome, so I had to portage. Easiest way is to take out at S 47.22448°, W 072.49745° and put back in at Lake {35} [149.0/193]. The lake itself then was calm all day long. Camped at Lake, Camp {36H-L} [0.0/157] (Lago Cochrane), wich I only recommend in calm conditions.

Day 2: another calm day with a little tailwind in the afternoon. Camped at Settler Abandoned {36H} [52.7/156].

Day 3: hiked to Lago brown, which is all on MR starting from Settler {36H} [53.9/157] (Serafin). Reached there by noon, headwinds too strong already, so I continued walking until someone gave me a lift to Rio Tranquilo. Camped at S 47.40648°, W 072.38180°.

Day 4: put in Rio Tranquilo at S 47.40533°, W 072.37968°, access directly to the river from MR hassle-free. Water level mid high after a few hot days and melting water. The first 2,5 - 3 kms the river fans out a lot and is shallow, expect ground contact and short portage/lining sections if you choose the wrong river-arm. After that short section no problem. I took out just before X {36H} [98.2/349] (River Xersion) at S 47.45777°, W 072.45684° and hiked alon the old riverbed and then through semi-dense brush with cow-paths to put in at S 47.46068°, W 072.47258°. The rest of the river runs fine. No major difficulties, but it wouldn't be packrafting in Patagonia if the wasn't the obvious "occasional tree/log in the water"-warning 😉. Take out and hike across the bridge is straight forward, put in and the rest of the way on Rio Tranquilo and Rio Del Salto is easy. Rapid {36H-23} [42.2/286] was not much of a rapid due to high water level, just some waves. Took out just after and hitchhiked back to Cochrane from Ruta 7.

'''2025-Dec-30 to 2026-Jan-3 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, E, G / Emily'''

A beautiful section, particularly from Glacier Callequeo to the Pass, and around Lago Christie.
The trail is mostly well-defined. There are several sections with a lot of fallen trees, but they’re easily stepped over or passed with CC/light BB on occasion. I found it more bothersome than difficult. Similarly, the sections I had to roadwalk were more monotonous than difficult. No issues with fords; a couple reached my upper thigh/crotch, but all had weak to mild currents. Plenty of water around.
Fortunate to have some great weather - several days of sun and minimal winds. I’d expect that the exposed and swampy sections of the trail would be significantly more difficult in poorer conditions. With the exception of the road and at the Glacier, I didn’t see anyone.
Attractiveness - 4/5
Difficulty - 3/5

Camps (all with decent wind protection and nearby water)
* Day 1 - Settler 36H-23 [33.2/290]. Approx. 1.5km off the RR at 15km. This is an established campground, though there’s currently no sign. Friendly family, flat grass area for tents, big dining/kitchen space with fireplace, showers and toilets. 7.000clp p/n
* Day 2 - Camp [79.9/876] (Approx. 100m before, where there was a flatter spot).
* Day 3 - Camp [110.9/500]. Beautiful spot, highly recommend.
* Day 4 - -48.162416, -72.414089, approx. 138.5km at the puesto marked on OSM. A slightly lumpy but flat spot for 1 tent below the lean-to.

Points of note
* I started from Cochrane around 4.15pm on a weekday afternoon. I was able to get two short hitches but mostly roadwalked. The following morning I hitched with a local guide to the glacier (from ~20km, around 8am). On the roadwalk to Villa O’Higgins (Day 5) I was able to hitch from ~148km, around 9.15am on a weekend).
* After the Puesto at 57.6/667 there’s a bad patch of fallen trees. For the most part the RR was obstructed or not obvious. I instead followed a mix of game trail and RR; whatever was the path of least resistance. Some CC/BB required, which was time-consuming but not difficult.
* Note that there’s no water at 67.3/1041, but plenty at the following waypoint [68.4/1089].
* Only one small patch of snow on the descent from Pass 71.5/1304 - could be avoided if you wanted. I forded [71.8/1262] on a snow bridge.
* There were a lot of fallen trees between ~86.5km to 110km, though as with the day before, they could be bypassed relatively easily with CC. Trail improved thereafter, though is still overgrown in parts/requires detours around fallen trees.
* I bypassed the Puesto at [107.3/479] by cutting across at -47.98615, -72.55851. While there’s no trail as such, there are several game trails and it’s easy CC (more straightforward than the RR at times). I reconnected with the RR at -47.99036, -72.55305.
* Recommend keeping an eye on your GPS after the puesto at ~135km. I followed a clear trail to the right of the RR. While in other instances these game trails usually reconnected to the RR, this one didn’t; required some BB through swamp to reconnect.

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025 Mar 17 to Mar 31 / 12 hiking days, 3 zero days / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 22A (Glacier Calluqueo), Var B / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: a nice section, very long so we really had a chance to sink into the wilderness, the trail can be a little tricky at times with all the mud, but overall easy to follow, once we got through the gate we did not see another person until 1 km before the trail met the driving road.

CAMPS:

Night 01-03: -47.60141, -72.49162 (grassy area, flat space for 1 tent, space for more tents if you aren't picky about lumpy ground or a slight grade, nice view, some wind protection, closest water is 300 m away)

Night 04: -47.65599, -72.47866 (about 250 m past Puesto Calluqueo, in a grassy field under trees; look up before choosing camp site as there are a lot of dead branches hanging from trees, water is about 250 m away at the river)

Night 05: -47.70850, -72.49490 (about 100 m before a stop-over puesto, flat space for one tent, another spot nearby closer to the trail, river access is about 150 m away, some wind protection)

Night 06: -47.80911, -72.52036 (Camp 79.9, actually a stop-over puesto, it had a table and fire pit, there was flat space for a couple of tents, closest water was about 200 m away at the estero)

Night 07: Puesto El Burro (km 92.3) (flattish spot for a tent, water is about 200 m away)

Night 08-10: Camp 110.9 (excellent water access, fishing possibilities, nice view)

Night 11: -48.03699, -72.49126 (near Settler 118.9 Margarita Bustos, in the woods, decent wind protection, good water access at the lake)

Night 12/13: -48.09404, -72.49794 (in a forested area near the lake, water access was a stream, decent wind protection, dark and damp, not a site we would recommend)

Night 14: -48.14246, -72.43804 (next to puesto, flat, grassy area with space for several tents, no real wind protection, excellent water access from the river, tons of mosquitos)

WATER: No issues with finding water generally, however in a few spots it was a bit of a walk from camp to get water access.

Day 01 - Mar 17th

We took the subsidized bus from Cochrane to Lago Brown and the driver let us off at the cruz at the northern end of Lago Confluencia [X {36H} 33.9)]. There was only one other passenger on the bus. The driver, Orlando, was very friendly. It was 16 km of gravel road after that. Not the greatest, but there wasn't much elevation gain until the end so we made good time, and the surroundings were quite pretty. Only two vehicles passed us and neither picked us up. It rained a little, was sunny a little, was windy a little, but overall very pleasant weather. The trees were changing color, especially close to the glacier, and the reds of the leaves were really pretty contrasted with the turquoise of the lake. We hiked to the trailhead of Opt 22A. Just across the road to the west was a road heading in and then a gate. There was a flat, grassy area down to the left. We found a flat spot there. There was a house past the gate, but no one was home when I went to ask if it was okay to camp. However, we did not have to go through the gate to get to the area where we camped, there was a small path leading down to the grassy area before to the gate, and there used to be a fence there, but it has been taken down and rolled up, so I think camping here should not be an issue. The downside was that there was no water nearby so we had to walk 600 m round-trip to Rio Pedregoso to get water.

Day 02 - Mar 18th

We left the tent setup and just took a day pack to do Opt 22A (Glacier Calluqueo). About 140 m from the beginning of the route is an unmarked ford of the Rio Pedregoso. It was knee deep where we forded with a fair amount of current. It also has almost no visibility due to the milky quality from all the glacial flour. On the far (east) side of the river, the bank was a fairly flat rocky bank. It looked like it would be possible to camp there with a free standing tent. From the river the trail went steeply up for a bit, then began to follow a forested ridge. After the ridge there was a narrow, exposed traverse for about 400 m, then it returned to forest for most of the rest of the route. At the end of Opt 22A there was a campsite with a stream about 200 m before it. It had some wind protection and a fire ring. We went past the campsite, and the trail actually went another 150 m or so to a nice lookout point. We stopped there to have coffee. On the way back down we walked a little bit of Opt 22B. We returned to camp as the wind picked up and it started to rain a bit. We thought this was a really nice side hike and definitely recommend it.

Day 03 - Mar 19th

We took a zero day. It had rained in the night and there was some light rain during the day. I walked down to the river to get water a couple of times and it was noticeably higher and faster than the day before.

Day 04 - Mar 20th

We started for the gate marked Fin del Camino, and almost immediately had to turn back. The guys from Puesto Calluqueo (we assume) were driving their herd of cows down. Once the cows had passed we went through the gate. The early part of the trail until the first ford was essentially a road and was very easy to follow. Fords were all easy, and we left the water shoes on in between them since they were so close together. After Fence 56.5 the trail became a maze through swampy areas. No one was at Puesto Calluqueo when we passed. We went 250 m or so past it and found a forested area with a flat spot. There were a lot of dead branches and dead trees around. We were able to push some of them over to make the site a little safer. Water access was about 100 m away at the river.

Day 05 - Mar 21st

The day continued the maze of swamp. At one point we had to switch to water shoes to avoid a significant detour. We stopped at the south end of the laguna to have lunch. Just to the east there was a good stream. We heard it before we saw it. We had wanted to get to Camp 68.4, but the day had taken longer than we anticipated, so we opted to camp early and attempt the La Picota ford the following day. We found a flat, grassy spot about 100 m before an unmarked puesto. Water access was about 75 m away at the river which had good access.

Day 06 - Mar 22nd

We took Var B and headed up to the infamous La Picota. The way down to the ford was terrifying. The trail was extremely narrow and steep, and the material slid easily. About half way down I just leaned back into the hill and started to slide down on my uphill leg. The soil was extremely loose and would pile up under my legs quickly. Once a good berm had formed under my back leg, I would pull it out and repeat the process. This created a kind of stair step effect in the hill that Kasia could walk down. The ford itself was actually uneventful, mid calf and with moderate current, and okay visibility. On the way up on the other side we found a lot of really good berries. After the first pass we found a trail that was clear and easy to follow that allowed us to bypass Ford 71.8 and stay on the east side of the river down into the plateau. We stopped to have lunch and set up the tent to dry out. It was sunny and warm with very little wind, so it was very pleasant. The way down from the second pass was easy. The valley was beautiful. The first two fords were dry foot crossable. Ford 77.4 was a little tricky. There was a large rock that the river split around. We crossed to the rock, then went up and over it, down the other side and then through the water again. It was only ankle deep, so not problematic, but the route wasn't so obvious. We just left the water shoes on after that until after Ford 78.9, also easy, mid calf with very little current, though we had to go slow because the water was completely opaque from all the sediment so it was entirely by feel. We should have left the shoes on longer though because the trail shortly started to go through swamp, and then came to an unmarked ford and we had to switch again. We camped at Camp 79.9. The site is actually a stop-over puesto. There was a table, a wind wall and a fire ring. The closest water was about 200 m further along the trail at the estero. There was a fox that came in the night and hung around for awhile, but didn't bother any of our gear.

Day 07 - Mar 23rd

It was a clear, cold morning. There was a thin layer of ice on both the inside and the outside of the tent when we woke up. We started the day in frozen water shoes. There was an unmarked ford (the estero) that is potentially dry foot crossable about 200 m from the camp. The remaining fords were mostly ankle deep, half calf at most, with not much current. The river was very low and the area where the track went through, to the east of the river, looked swampy. We crossed to the west of the river and just went CC for about 2 km, then crossed back over. This worked out well for us. We stopped at Puesto La Pampa for lunch. There was a nice sunny spot to set up the tent to dry out. Water was about 200 m away. There were a ton of mosquitos there. Further along the route, the trail up the hill provided some very nice views on either side. There were a lot of muddy spots on the trail, so slow going at times. We camped at Puesto El Burro, some flat space right around the puesto. Water was about 150 m away.

Day 08 - Mar 24th

It was cloudy and cool with no wind. We walked to Puesto Las Tablas for lunch. Other reports have said there is no water there, however we found water not far from the puesto (-47.92729, -72.56685). Across the grassy field there is a low hill with a few large trees. Just behind it was a stream with good, clean water coming down from the hill up above. As we continued on, there was a lot of mud on the trail and we took our time getting around it to keep our feet dry. We did the CC/BB east-southeast to go directly from 104.7 to 110.9. It took us about an hour. There were many animal paths, so we just selected whichever seemed the most open. It definitely saved some time over going RR the whole way. For us the campsite at 110.9 was just okay. There really wasn't any flat, level space for a two person tent. There is good, easy lake access, but at that time of the year the sun doesn't ever really hit the beach near the site. There were also a lot of mosquitos.

Day 09 - Mar 25th

We decided to take a rest day. We tried fishing but didn't catch anything. Neither of us had ever fished before, so I can’t say we did it correctly.

Day 10 - Mar 26th

We took a day hike over to Rial's place. We had seen The Last Gaucho in Patagonia after last season and wanted to see the place in person. The door to the puesto was just tied shut and it looked as if people were still using the area for cattle. We opened the door to look around, but we saw mouse droppings and rodent chew marks on some things, so we left immediately and re-tied the door. After we had looked around, we followed a plastic water line up to a little stream and then continued on some trails we found. The route was a little above the regular packrafting route and eventually connected with it. We followed the packrafting route almost until the lake, then crossed back over the river and went CC back to RR and back to camp. It was a nice, short day hike.

Day 11 - Mar 27th

The path around the lake was easy to follow. The route provided some nice views over the lake. We arrived at Settler 118.9 (Margarita Bustos) in the late afternoon. There was a corral with a flat, grassy area near the house, but we opted to camp in the woods, both for wind protection, and also because the area near the house had a lot of mosquitos for some reason. There were very few in the woods. No one was at the house, but it did look like someone spends some time there. We took water from the lake.

Day 12 - Mar 28th

The day was cloudy and kind of cold. There was an unmarked ford at around km 119.3. It was mid-calf with very little current. A lot of the trail was in the woods. There were fewer muddy spots than in previous areas. We knew that the following day was supposed to have bad weather, so we planned to camp at Refuge 126.1 (Entre Lagos). As others have stated, a giant tree fell on the puesto a few years back and completely destroyed it. There was no place around the puesto that looked flat enough to camp. Also, the only water we found were two different trickling streams with a lot of mud, both quite far from the puesto itself. We went back down to the lake and looked around there. We finally found a spot that was flat enough, but we had to pull down a couple of rotting trees to make it safe in the event of wind. There was a stream running very close by that was kind of shallow, but clear. It worked well enough as a water source. Most of the forest was made up of fairly thin trees, close together, and a lot of dead branches and trees. We would definitely recommend looking up before choosing a campsite here if wind is in the forecast.

Day 13 - Mar 29th

We took a zero day to wait over rain and wind. It turned out to be not that windy, which was fortunate, but it did rain throughout most of the day.

Day 14 - Mar 30th

In the morning it was quite cold, but at least not raining. In the afternoon we passed by Rubén’s place. He invited us in, but we decided to decline as we were trying to make some distance. He walked us down to the gate and opened it for us, and explained the route. He said sometimes hikers take the wrong path and get lost. We had no issues sticking with the GPT path. There were a couple of places where we had to be creative with getting around water to not have to do a shoe switch. At around km 135.4 (-48.14246, -72.43804) we came out of the woods and found an unmarked puesto. There was also an unmarked ford that needed to be passed to continue. We decided to stop early for the day with the hope of getting the gear dried out. There was a large grass area that was mostly flat and we were able to get the tent up before the drizzle started. Fortunately there was some sun peaking through as well and it was just enough to get the inside of the tent fully dry. We kept our stuff under the large tree next to the river while we waited. The major drawback to this site was there were a ton of mosquitos.

Day 15 - Mar 31st

We started the morning with the ford. Right after the ford we were following the GPT track file, but we ended up at a dead end. There was a fence on our left and we back tracked along it almost until the ford when we saw an opening in the fence. We went through it, then up to a path and it reconnected with the GPT track shortly after that. After that the trail was easy to follow. There continued to be a lot of up and down. Up high the terrain was rocky and exposed. It made for some amazing views, but was also a little tiring as the winds were very strong that day. At around km 138.5 (-48.16224, -72.41415) there was a stop over puesto with a wind barrier and a fire ring. We stopped and had lunch there before continuing. The wind got stronger throughout the day, though fortunately it was not raining. About 1 km before the path connects with the road we met a day hiker going the opposite direction. When we arrived at the trailhead, a couple from Santiago on holiday was just walking up. We talked to them for a couple of minutes and they offered us a ride to O’Higgins. What amazing luck! We arrived in town around 17:00.

*'''2025-MAR-20 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 12) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From Villa O'Higgins, we set out towards the Mosco Glacier. However, due to the absence of a trail, we had to turn back earlier than planned. Later, we learned at the information center that the trail is closed after the annual floods and can only be completed with a guide.

The trail is maintained up to Refugio Puesto Rivera, though we still had to climb over several fallen trees. Shortly after joining the final CC&TL section, the river flows along a steep rock face, which we initially attempted to climb. However, due to loose debris, we deemed it too risky and turned back. This section should be passable with a combination of climbing and river fording, but due to other commitments, we decided to return instead. We did not attempt to ford the river.

Challenges: Difficult terrain caused by the Rio Mosco, which recently changed the valley’s landscape due to flooding.

Water: Plenty of water available along the entire route.

'''2025-03-14 to 2025-03-20 / 7 days, 1 Zero / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Option B / Tyson'''

I joined forces with a hiker I met in Parque Patagonia who was hesitant to do it on his own. It made for a great fit as he was a native Spanish speaker which led to amazing interactions with locals on the way that I would not have been able to manage on my own. We hitched on the front and back end avoiding a lot of the road walking, which allowed us to take a zero on Lago Alegre. Overall, the trail was in much better shape than I expected. Quite clear, and well-trodden in most places (with the usual cow trails to contend with at times) and the pass has a lot of cairns. No trouble with water or crossings. Keep an eye out for mushrooms. The best online resource I found for identification was CIEFAP (at your own risk of course). A really special section.

Day 1: [RR] We started out of Cochrane ~9:30. Two hitches got us all the way to Glaciar Calluqueo - massive timesaver. We were on the Ruta by 1pm. We camped at the outlet to a shallow lake at -47.697970, -72.498393. This is next to a shallow still pond, so I imagine this spot can get covered up by mosquitoes at certain times, but they were minimal while we were there. There is a small stream just up the hill with good water.

Day 2: [RR, option B, option D] Up to Paso La Picota. We took option B to Picota, which is only possible when the water is low late in the season. The spot to descend and cross was well-marked with a cairn that had an old shovel and pick stuck in it. On the way to the Pass/Border [71.5/1304] and down to Rio Bravo there were plenty of cairns to help guide the way. We saw some other SOBO hikers who turned out to be a Chilean family led by a swaggering gentleman by the name of Papo. After having the good fortune to cross paths a few times on the trail, we learned that Papo is in fact the owner of a number of the puestos on the Ruta, born and raised in the area. When not out tending his cattle in the wilderness, he has a tourism business (Bajo Baguales), and he and his lovely wife Lorena run Hospedaje Fabiana in Villa O’higgins (recommended). Real salt of the earth Patagones. If you need some inspiration before the hike, check out the documentary “Gaucho” (search “Gaucho Journeyman Pictures” on youtube), featuring a younger Papo. He also has a boat on Lago Alegre. We didn’t ask, but if anyone is looking for a guide, or possibly a boat ride, or to fish with a local, or to arrange a true cordero a palo, I’m sure Papo is the man for it. Just search for Bajo Baguales in google maps. It will point you to a restaurant north of town by that name that currently has his number. Or you could inquire at Hospedaje Fabiana.

All fords were well below the knee and easy. After Ford [78.6/888] we took Option D which is up and over a hill but allows you to skip a couple crossings (my hiking partner was a boots off type..). There is definitely some BB in the option particularly in the beginning. But if you stick closely to the track it was actually surprisingly well trodden and easy to follow for most of it. We stayed near Puesto La Pampa [83.9/820] (unoccupied), where Papo’s crew caught up to us.

Day 3: [RR] We camped in the woods near Puesto Las Tablas [98.4/553] (unoccupied), where Papo’s crew caught up with us again late that night and beat us to the trail the following morning. A NOBO hiker that we didn’t have the chance to meet (Laura?) arrived late in the evening at the puesto. Papo was amazed that he ran into two separate sets of hikers on his trip.

Day 4: [RR] We caught up to Papo where the terrain flattens out between Rio Bravo and the outlet for Lago Alegre. Papo guided us through the shortcut that avoids going down towards Puesto El Depleye [107.4/479], and puts you at Camp [185.7/487]. The shortcut starts somewhere around -47.985545, -72.558281. You’ll see an intersection where the RR goes downhill and the shortcut goes to the left keeping to the current elevation. Lunched with Papo and crew who were finishing up their hike and boating out the next day.

We stayed at Camp [110.9/500].

Day 5: [RR] We zeroed at Camp [110.9/500]

Day 6: [RR] Pretty clear trail going south. No one home at Settler [118.9/486] (Margarita Bustos). Apparently no one lives there now but the property is managed by her son now. We picked some wild yarrow (milenrama) from the pasture for tea later and then moved on. All along the lakes, we also were finding a lot of changle (fungi). At the southern end of Lago Alegre just north of Refuge [126.1/512] we ran into a small group of fly fisherman camped. After chatting, we thought we had a good chance of hitch with them from Rio Perez the next afternoon.

Made it to Don Ruben’s ~6pm, Settler [132.8/525] (Ruben Pradano). A really lovely farm on the water, full of all kinds of animals. Don Ruben rode up after a few minutes of us getting there and greeted us warmly. After a short chat, he offered us his spare room for the night as well as food. We ate beef and tortas fritas, and thanks to my travel companion we were able to talk for quite a while. Don Ruben lives on the ranch full time including through the winter and rarely goes into town. He seemed quite content to have some company. Among other things he told us that there had been some 40 hikers that passed through this past season.

Day 7: [RR] We asked Don Ruben what we could help him with on the farm, and spent about an hour with him chopping some sections of logs into firewood and stacking it. After, we had a bit of mate and went on our way. Made it to X [142.0/550] by ~2pm. There is a picnic table above the road that we made the mistake of stopping at for a snack. As we ate in the rain, we watched two cars pass by that turned out to be our only possibilities for a hitch for the rest of the day. Pro tip: snack on the road.

The rest of the day we roadwalked in worsening weather. Refuge [148.6/464] at the turnoff for Entrada Mayer is quite clean and would make for fine camping, but we went on. Our fisherman friends were not at Rio Perez, so we resigned ourselves to the long roadwalk. Made it to Refuge [156.8/418] just past the bridge. Not nice at all: broken chimney, everything absolutely covered in clay dust, benches too short to sleep on, rodent sign. Amazingly, just before we were about to set up camp in the muck outside the refuge, my hiking companion waved down a single truck passing in the night. We got to Villa O’higgins quite late that night but still managed to get a cabana with a wood stove after inquiring at Mercado San Gabriel.

*'''2025-MAR-8 to 2025-MAR-14 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + var. B + own exp. / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

Long, wild, and beautiful. The GPT36H Ruta de los Pioneros is undoubtedly one of the most stunning sections of the entire GPT and one of our favorites, as we primarily seek out wilderness, remoteness, and breathtaking panoramas. Apart from two arrieros, we encountered no one on the trail section of this segment, and we even successfully fished in the crystal-clear Lago Alegre. Sections 0-53.1 and 142.0-183.4 are on a gravel road, which is fairly dull, but it can be covered quickly, allowing you to focus most of your time on the trail between these sections, where you'll enjoy views of glaciers and crystal-clear lakes.

We completed the route in six days, sticking to the RR with two exceptions:
1) OH-B between the Ford Start/End points [66.5/867] (Rio Pedregoso) and Camp [68.4/1089]. The only challenging spot is Ford {36H-B} [1.3/934] (La Picota, often not fordable). At the end of the season, the crossing was completely manageable and could even be jumped over.
2) The trail section between kilometers 104.7 - 110.9, where RR unnecessarily directs towards Puesto {36H} [107.4/479] (Rial), can be taken as straightforward cross-country, as noted by Natalie and Lillian before us.

Challenges:
It's hard to pinpoint one main challenge; perhaps just that the entire trail section of this segment is quite time-consuming, and the real elevation gain is much greater than it may appear on the map. This section is an ideal cocktail of all the challenging aspects that the GPT as a whole presents. You definitely need to account for long resupply distances, difficult fords, strong winds and snow, frequent tree crossings, and at times ambiguous navigation in the terrain.

Bivouacing:
We had no problems finding a bivouacing spot along the entire route. You can also use puestos (small simple enclosed shelters) that typically have a table or fire pit. We preferred not to sleep in them due to the presence of mice (hantavirus) and opted to bivouac a short distance away. For example, we bivouacked near Puesto {36H} [57.6/667] (Calloqueo), which is managed by Don Aguilar and is usually closed. He was there, hosted us, and we cooked together. We then slept in the fenced enclosure next to the puesto because he had a bull roaming freely nearby. Bivouacing is also nice near Puesto {36H} [83.9/820] (La Pampa) and Puesto {36H} [98.4/553] (Puesto Tablas) – both were open and can be utilized. The Refuge {36H} [148.6/464] was very pleasant (with a stove and grill).

Water:
Water is not an issue; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
1) In Cochrane, there are several shops; we were recommended the Rojita supermarket (-47.2533068, -72.5755978). In the eastern part of the town, there is also a well-stocked supermarket, Emporio Vecino Arno (-47.2508926, -72.5610763). You can also find gas cartriges there. They can reliably be purchased at the ferreteria (-47.2550686, -72.5761167). For food, we recommend Cumbres pizzeria artesanal above the Rojita supermarket. It’s a small pizzeria, but the lady was very nice, and it was definitely the best pizza we had in Chile.
2) In Villa O'Higgins, there are again several shops. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.

'''25-03-03 - 25-03-06 / 3,5 days / Upper valley of Rio Tranquilo/ Thijmen and Volker'''

We started at Cochrane at 2 p.m. with a driver, who brought us on Ruta X 901, then X903 to the house of the Soto family (Fundo San Lorenzo). It‘s around 2,5 hours to go in a quite remote area. The Sotos are the owners of Refugio Röhrer (Campo de Agostini) in the upper valley of Rio Tranquilo (7k per person). It‘s 2 hours of walk to this great cabin (oven, saw and axe, pans, space for 10, very cosy) and with bresthtaking views on the Cerro San Lorenzo, its glaciar and the Torre Grande.
The next day we went to Paso del Comedor. The pass is on the western side of the valley, south to Torre Grande, which dominates this side. The refugio is at 1020m, the pass at 2000m. First you follow a trail in the forest, then it‘s CC but marked with cairns steep upwards along a creek, later without cairns to a laguna. We surrounded the laguna on its northern end, then walked on a snow-covered glaciar along the western side of the laguna,. Finally we turned right, went up a steep snowfield to reach the pass after another 20 minutes in less steep, rocky terrain. The conditions were quite difficult, snow, that had fallen the days before, started at around 1500m. We scrambled over snow-covered rocks and stones and sunk into the snow up to our knees or even thighs. Navigation was not easy, too. So It took us 5,5 hours with light backpacks to get to the pass. We couldn’t even think about connecting this route to gpt36 OH22b on Laguna Caluqueo. From the pass it’s a long way down on a glaciar. The first part seemed doable, but you definitively need all equipment for a glaciiar. It should be explored going upwards from the laguna in order to have the possibility to return, if it turns out to be too difficult or if the weather isn’t stable. Anyway with backpacks it would be very difficult to do in one day and a camp in high-mountain terrain, possibly on a glaciar, might be necessary. For us it was 3 hours back to Refugio Röhrer on approx. the same way we came.
The next day was rainy in the morning, so we started late for exploration to the glaciar at the end of the valley. The way to the first Laguna is marked with cairns, afterwards we went CC scrambling to the southern end of the second laguna and the waterfall on the left side. We still walked up in very steep terrain in direction of the glaciar, but due to the westher didn‘t try to reach the first seracs, which would have taken another hour, if possible at all. So it was a short day in this stunning upper valley, that makes you feel, that Antarctica is not too far away. The next day we walked down and spent some nice time at the Fundo Agostini of the Soto family, before we walked to ruta X903, There we met a driver from Cochrane, we called from the Fundo (they have starlink).

* ''' 2025-FEV-26 > MAR-01 / 4 jours / Randonnée + auto-stop / SOBO / RR > 36-22A > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT36
| Meteo : soleil, nuage le dernier jour
| Eau : parfois difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : chenilles urticantes

Départ de Cochrane à 8h, personne ne s'arrête sur la carretera austral (pas d'eau). Sur la gravel road j'arrive à faire 3km en auto-stop, puis 10km, puis 16km avec un jeune couple allemand adorable qui m'ont déposé à la Laguna Calluqueo vers 12h30. Attention peste aquatique, j'ai bu l'eau du lac mais elle ne contient pas que du sable. Ensuite j'ai passé 5h à faire la 36-22A qui est vraiment géniale (il y a beaucoup de points d'eau après le km 4), puis j'ai campé au km 55,4 pour éviter le ford le matin. J'ai mal au ventre en me levant mais rien de méchant. Ensuite la progression dans la forêt est plutôt lente (~3km/h) à cause des arbres couchés, des zones humides et des buissons. J'ai suivi le sentier toute la journé, il n'y a pas de cross-county. Le sentier a été entretenu récemment et il y a des cairns partout dans la partie rocheuse. Après le pass au km 71,5, il faut suivre le sentier qui descend tout de suite, la trace gps n'est pas bonne et ça évite le ford au km 71,8. Au km 75,4 il n'y a pas de ford. Après le km 79, il y a des moustiques. La pression n'est pas forte mais c'est pénible pour se laver. J'ai moins mangé car je n'avais pas faim, je me couche avec un mal de ventre et je me lève avec un mal de crâne en plus. Après le sentier est aussi bon. Il se dégrade seulement entre les km 103 et 105. Le problème quand on pousse les branches ce sont les chenilles. Beaucoup d'arbres couchés du km 109 au 112. J'ai mal au crâne, au ventre, et j'ai des courbatures, la journée se termine et je suis complètement claqué. Après le settler du km 119 le sentier se degrade un peu mais redevient normal après le km 125,5. En arrivant à la salto Perez, j'ai rencontré deux retraités Italiens très gentils qui ont acceptés de me conduire à O'Higgins. Coup de chance car la route n'est pas frequentée et il n'y avait pas d'autres voitures. A l'hostel El Mosco j'ai rencontré Tamar et Nimrod, nous avons bien discuté, ils sont super gentils.
MAR-02: Repos Villa O'Higgins et médecin.

'''2025-Jan-30 to 2025-Feb-5 / 7 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Pretty straight forward section so not much to add. All the fords were fine even though it was raining a lot for us. Trail a bit overgrown in places but nothing problematic.

Caught the bus at 11am to junction 33.9km (1,000 clp pp).

Walked on the minor road for 8km before getting a hitch to the mirador at Laguna Calluqueo.

Ford 53.7, 54.8 and 55.4km all below the knee and easy the morning after a rainy day. Good camping on the south side of 55.4km too.

Fords 66.5-66.7km all easy.

Ford 71.8km hopped over.

Camped 150m north of Ford 75.4km (-47.46396, -72.30952) flat dry spot not much wind protection though.

Fords 75.4-81.3km all easy, below the knee.

Camped in the forest just over 1km before puesto 98.4km - good wind protection.

Really nice campsite by the river at 104km (marked on OSM)

Trail by Lago Alegre is pretty overgrown in places.

Camped at 138.5km (-48.09739, -72.24849) stream for water, sheltered in forest.

Walked as far as 150km when we saw the subsidised bus from o'higgins, stopped and waited for it to turn around and caught it on its way back to o'higgins. We didn't see a single car heading towards Villa O'higgins so can imagine it's a tough hitch, at least until you get closer.

* '''2025-Jan-20 to 2025-Jan-24 / 5 days Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 36H-D/ MiaimZelt'''

Day 1: Took the bus to X {36H} [33.9/336]. Got no hitch and had to hike 3 hours to Laguna Calluqueo. Ford {36H} [55.4/656] was easy and up to my knees.
Same with Ford {36H} [54.8/650]. Puesto {36H} [57.6/667] (Calloqueo) was protected by an aggressive dog. Continued and camped in the forest. Heavy rain in the evening.

Day 2: Fords Start/End {36H} [66.5/867] (Rio Pedregoso) was easy, only almost knee deep. Could not find the landslide that Sophie and Gaspar mentioned. Ford {36H} [78.6/888] (Rio Bravo) was a bit higher then my knees. Took option 36H-D to avoid to cross Rio Bravo two more times. Mostly i could follow a vague visible animal trail, which was often overgrown.
Puesto {36H} [83.9/820] (La Pampa) was not locked and looked nice. Dicided to continue and camped somewhere in the forest.

Day 3: From here -47.977178, -72.555534 to there -47.987679, -72.560694 the trail is definately very overgrown with 1-2m beech trees. Camped near this place -48.02468, -72.49029 nicely sheltered under trees.

Day 4: Liked the stretch along both lakes very much.
Refuge {36H} [126.1/512] (Entre Lagos) doesn't exist. -48.142506, -72.43804 collapsed shelter with a big and flat grassland. Would prefer to camp here instead because of better protection: -48.141492, -72.438798. After the shelter i struggled to find the trail. Got very windy in the afternoon. Camped here:
-48.162321, -72.414155. There is good wind protection from the forest and a small stream next to it. But the shelter in the map is just some almost collapsed trunks of trees. Like the stuff they build in 7-vs.-wild, but 10 years later.

Day 5: Again very windy. After 90 minutes hiking i reached the road. Very few cars passed. Refuge {36H} [148.6/464] is nice and has enough space to pitch a freestanding tent inside. But it has a corrugated iron roof, so probably waterproof. Refuge, River In {36H} [156.8/418] is ok, soil inside is sand. Found an open puesto here:
-48.252049, -72.357653. It was in good condition, but looked abandoned. 45min later i got a hitch to Villa O'Higgins, before heavy rain started.

* '''SOBO RR + OH 22A// hiking, hitchhiking // 6 days 7-12.01.2025 Maks & Gabi'''

Getting out of Cochrane was slightly problematic (hitchhiking) so we walked the first 5 km, but after leaving the main road, the 4th car stopped and gave us a ride until the Lago Calluqueo.

We camped by Rio Pedregoso, left our backpacks there and went to see the glacier - a lovely trail, there are 3 streams on the trail but only in second part od the trail, it took us about 4hrs.

Most of the fords were easy to cross, but some of the puestos looked abandoned (we haven't seen a human soul on that section).

I don't think there is much to be added. The trail is slightly overgrown so that it is not always easy to follow.

Again lots of annoyingly wind resistant horseflies 🙃

It might be quite hard to hitchhike the last +/- 50 km. We only saw one car after walking 7 km and we were lucky enough that they gave us a ride to Villa O' Higgins.

* '''2024-Dec-20 to 2024-Dec-26 / 7 / Hiking and Packrafting / SOBO (circle) / RR + Variant E Options: 14, 14E (new option), 14D, 14A (new option) / Roman'''

Successful investigation in Option 14 connecting Paso Mayer with Lago Burmeister.

Route: Started in Cochrane and hiked to X {36H} [5.5/267] there i got the first lift. Overall it took me 3 lifts and 15km of hitchhiking. Followd the RR hiking with Variant E until Camp {36H} [110.9/500]. Packrafting to Lake, Refuge {36H} [213.2/527]. Got a lift to Border Control CL {36H} [222.6/449]. Hiked from there Options: 14, 14E, 14D and 14A. First to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480] then to Laguna Bello and Lago Burmeister and finshed at X {36H-14} [64.1/897] and got a lift to Gobernador Gregores and from there over Chile Chico to Cochrane.

Started in Cochrane at 10:00 and hoped for a lift but didn't got one. You can also ask for a shuttle but I was told it was expensive so this wasn't a option. I guess you could gamble and just wait at X {36H} [5.5/267] for lift i hoked and reached the start of the hike at 16:00. The detailed information from Lilian Season 23/24 where really good. The first 3 fords where easy, there was a person at Puesto {36H} [53.1/611] and i camped at Ford {36H} [55.4/656]. There was no snow on the pass Border, Pass {36H} [71.5/1304] and Border, Pass {36H} [73.9/1225] so quite easy hiking. Camped at Puesto {36H} [83.9/820] (La Pampa) it was a nice place to pitch a tent - the Puesto was ok (see here: https://imgur.com/a/v2pPTK8). The next day was the only day where I didn't has sunshine and it was cloudy with 3 short rainfalls each ~10min. There were some people at Puesto {36H} [98.4/553] (Puesto Tablas). On that day was the only part where I would say the trail is overgrown- this is from -47.977178, -72.555534 to -47.987679, -72.560694 there is a trail but chest high trees which are especiallyin the rain annoyingas you get completely wet. The trail was good and easy to hike and I camped at Camp {36H} [110.9/500] which was good access to the lake and enough space for 2-3 tents. The next morning i stared Packrafting - wind forecast was good until 16:00 there wind with 23 km/h and gusts up to 40 km/h should set in from NW - so favourable. The Morning was super calm and it took me 4:20h for the 13km (avg. 3.0 km/h) to cross Lago Alegre. After the short hike from Lake {36H} [198.8/489] to Lake {36H} [200.5/525]. I started Packrafting at 15:00. The wind was favourable and I made fast progress especially with the strong wind it took me 3:00h for the 12.5 km (avg. 4.2 km/h). The waves at -48.173951, -72.427001 my limit and quite crazy. They calm down right after the turn. Same situation at -48.180342, -72.393292. So if the wind is that strong evaluate the situation critically. I camped at Lake, Refuge {36H} [213.2/527]. The Refuge is good for a fire or to cook but not to sleep inside. Until this point i would say the trail is in a ok to good condition. There a quite a few fallen trees but nothing major and all easy to hike except the 1km mentioned earlier so Overall good quality.

The next day I got a lift to Border Control CL {36H} [222.6/449]. You need a Salvoconducto (https://www.pdichile.cl/tr%C3%A1mites-online/salvoconducto) you can request it 10 days in advance normally it takes between a few minutes to hours. Last year I also applied to it for the boarder crossing at Border Control CL {22S} [22.2/299]. But I never got one i event went to the local police before the trip. So i didn’t has a Salvoconducto at the Border. The PDI was very friendly and you have wifi there and we requested it together - and just got the approval email after 40min. They have given me Water, Tea, Biscuits and WiFi. They have given me a ride in the car to cross the Ford at -48.209796, -72.322273. From there i followed 36H-14 and 36H-14E to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. I took a slightly diffrent route which is in my Option optimized as it follows the main hose trail to Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] and after that the ond minor road and a shortcut at -48.242534, -72.23587 (there is also a bridge). This part can be found and downloaded below market as: GPT36H-14_14E.

After that i started the investigation and hiked to Laguna Bello and camped here: -48.168916, -72.191267. There is no real trail only animal trails and CC and 250m of BB (i guess it can be circumvented. So overall quite easy to hike (3.1 km/h with 540m ascent). You have to jump the fence at -48.251191, -72.224694 ater that it's easy CC to this point -48.231692, -72.206461. There you enter the forest trough a small trial and reached a river visible on Topo maps and follow it: (https://imgur.com/a/KRGrwFD). After that it's CC trough the forest: https://imgur.com/a/ANahcO8. There is one ford at -48.219721, -72.202217 which is also a great place for a camp. CC continues all the way to -48.190151, -72.193122 there are quite a lot fallen trees. At -48.182434, -72.193504 is a short BB section 200m nit that bad just chest high trees - i guess this can circumvent if you hike a bit further west. The coordinates mark the end of the BB. The last 50m BB are here: -48.169691, -72.188992. After that you made it to Laguna Bello and absolutely stunning place to camp and hike: https://imgur.com/a/gjumzVL!!! The next day is awesome CC over the pass and down the valley there is water every few hunderd meters. There is a short swampy section here (300m -48.064146, -72.198477). All fords where below knee level and easy with one exception (will come later) you have to Ford here: -48.033639, -72.201987 and -48.029881, -72.202172. The Puesto at Refuge {36H-14} [90.7/1009] is a good place to pitch a tent but there is no water. The place itself is simple buy maybe even water proof as there is a plastic wrap as a roof see: https://imgur.com/a/mcizrYr. From there on is mostly a trail all the way to the end. It's south following the GPS. Sometimes the trail is not visible for e.g. if it's completely open CC but other that that I would say I got 80%. I camped at -47.968783, -72.187904 which wasn't very flat but manageable. The next day I connected the trail to GPT36H-14A end. The Ford Ford {36H-14} [79.6/902] is the only one which was knee high. It's a wide but not fast flowing river so easy to cross especially there is a treck for the cars: https://imgur.com/a/dqPamtM. To get a overall impression of the terrain: https://imgur.com/a/2I7gegk.

After that i hiked to X {36H-14} [64.1/897]. And got a lift to -47.851658, -72.031836 (https://maps.app.goo.gl/HPkqayReiotCw2yP7) there is the registration for the Parque Nacional Perito Moreno. You need a reservation to get into the park and to have the huts booked. I guess if you just enter it's also fine. At this place is a open Bathroom and Free WiFi. The Ranger was nice and Helpful. There is no resupply. This and transfer could be arranged with Estancia la Oriental ( https://laorientalpatagonia.com/). While I was there (40min) 3 cars showed up. I got a lift directly to Gobernador Gregores (during the 1.5h dirst road 5 cars came in the opposite direction so i guess you always get a lift away within half a day) from where you can take multiple busses one is a daily bus which goes to Los Antiguos departure 16:30PM here: -48.755133, -70.255558 (https://taqsa.com.ar/). From there i went back to Cochrane.

Overall:
It's a absolutely beautiful and remote part of the GPT and I absolutely enjoyed it! It's nice and easy CC and if you like adventure, remoteness and CC without a trail is can highly reccomend it as you have great hiking access to a new area with this Option! I had food for 10 days with fairly fast hiking which was sufficient - i would reccomend doing this option only with a good weather window.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):

GPT36H-14_14E: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tIZ5EBZfod3IqJ2B7Q?e=cl8pza

GPT36H-14_14A_14D: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tIc7PQrXY25VQ5ywOA?e=ttbG02

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*27-11-2024 to 02-12-2024 / 6 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

We departed from Villa O’Higgins, where we stayed at the Los Pioneros campground, run by the very kind Pachi (highly recommended). Heading north, we followed the unpaved road for about a day and a half before joining the actual Pioneers’ Route.

This trail is navigable 70% of the time, but vegetation has overgrown about 30% of the path (locals mentioned we were likely the first to pass through this year, which might explain the conditions). Locals also mentioned the possibility of crossing Lakes Christie and Alegre by boat. Since we intended to hike, we didn’t inquire further, but for those interested, this option exists. Only one permanent settler remains at Lake Christie: Don Rubén. We passed by his cabin, but unfortunately, he had already left for work that day, so we didn’t get the chance to meet him. On the third day, we reached the La Pampa settler site, where we camped in preparation for an early crossing of the Río Bravo.

Crossing the Río Bravo at its source posed no issues for us, as this year’s snowmelt is delayed, keeping river levels low. We chose the OR route to ford the river only once. Although this path was slightly more challenging, it was worth it to avoid wet feet in the low temperatures.

At Paso Picota, we encountered some snow, but it didn’t impede our progress. On the descent, however, the RR crossing of the first river was not passable, likely due to a landslide upstream. As a result, we followed the OR route, which runs higher and presented no problems. From there, we continued our journey to Cochrane without major difficulties.

* '''2024-Nov-06 / 3.5 hours (1 day including return) / GPT36H Option 22 Sendero Los Gatos / SOBO / Jan Dudeck'''

This route is particularly useful for packrafters with a smaller open packraft that wish to travel GPT35 and GPT36H southbound. By only packrafting the more wind protected eastern section of Lago Cochrane the infamous windy “La Leona” sector of Lago Cochrane is avoided.

Resupply can be arranged by hitchhiking or taking the subsidized bus 35 km back to Cochrane after paddling Lago Brown and Rio Tranquilo (this is part of the Regular Packrafting Route of GPT36H before reaching the trail head of Ruta de los Pioneros). This reduces travel time for packrafters and keeps the water proportion up.

Route Description:

Halfway between the Chilean Border Control of Pasa Roballo and the southern terminus of the Los Aviles Track (“Casa de Piedra”) is the “Camping Alto Valle”. This perfectly maintained camp ground offers about 8 shelters. The campground is situated 500 m away from the main road on a minor gravel road. This 6 km short gravel road continues towards Lago Cochrane. From this minor road start two trails: Sendero Los Gatos that leads all the way to Lago Cochrane and Sendero Lago Chico.

Sendero Los Gatos can be used by packrafters to access Lago Cochrane in a somewhat wind sheltered sector next to Isla Victor. The track of Sendero Los Gatos is not part of the GPT track files 2024 but the trail head is signposted and route is mostly well visible.

When visiting the beach I could see a few spots where a tent can be pitched for a night but I did not spot a really nice sheltered location where waiting two or three days would be delight (if the wind forecast makes it unlikely). So packrafters best descent to the lake on the day before attempting to cross Lago Cochrane.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Apr-02 to 2024-Apr-07 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR - {36H-G} - RR - {36H-D} - RR / Lilian'''

A beautiful section, especially from km83.9(Puesto La Pampa) to km66.5(multiple crossing), nice views with remote area, i love it so much!

Because of late season, all the river crossing are super easy, only 4 place need to wet feet, all others can go around or rock hopping. Some of trail go in the water(lake, pond, pool) directly, but all you can go around by side trail, some CC or light BB.

Snow still not a problem, snow start at 950m at south, and covered some of the trail above 1100m but didn't matter, i go around most of the snow easily. And didn't find any knee deep snow(maybe melted again), the deepest posthole just above ankle, easy walking. Because of lot of cairns at the area of two pass, so it is easy for navigation although some parts of trail is covered by snow.

The most annoying is WIND. It is crazy windy almost everywhere except last day. The most windy part is at the second pass, i even can't open my eyes to look at the trail and walk on it straighly because of crazy freezing wind. (Be careful of hypothermia, crazy windy + rain/snow/after river crossing is horrible)

My friend give me a 2hour ride from Villa O' Higgins to Lago Christie( X[142.0/550] ) , so i save about 50km road walking, a huge thank you to him!

Km138.5 : shelter(-48.16236, -72.41397) made by woods, can cowboy inside when summer time, not rainproof but can be some wind protection. Can fit 2 tents outside with fire ring, some small stream flowing good with clear water just beside it. Weather protection by forest and the shelter.

Km135.35 : old refuge(-48.14246, -72.43808), half of the roofs is collapsed, but still can provide some protection for emergency. Nice grassland for camping beside the refuge, can fit 3-5 tents with fire pit and rock seats, not much protection by trees or bushes. A river flowing good beside it, trail crossing it with wet feet, half of calf. It is the first wet feet point for me.

Km134.1 : a lake, i cleared out a spot and camped here, some animals go to this lake and walking in it when midnight. It is very quiet and i heard the sound clearly. Not much protection, just some bushes here, not recommended with bad weather.

Settler[132.8/525] : from here to Refuge[126.1/512], trail becomes very easy to follow and walk, it is a frequency used trail. Look like some people living here, but i met noone when i passed.

Km129.3 : shelter(-48.11808, -72.48252) with just one side, weather protection by forest, can fit 1 tent here. A small stream flowing beside it.

Refuge[126.1/512] : refuge(Puesto Entrelagos) already gone just left some woods here, and like Natalie said looks like someone wants to rebuild it. Some flat spots here can fit 2-3 tents.

Lake[198.8/489] : Lago Alegre, a boat and a camping spot here, can fit 1 tent with fire ring and nice lake views but no protection, it is crazy windy when i was here.

Km119.3 : junction of RR and {36H-G}, i go straight and didn't go to Settler[118.9/486](El Caleuche). It is easy to follow and walk on {36H-G}, but you need to climb over a 2m wooden fence at north.

{36H-G} km3 : river crossing, cross it on a huge log easily.

RR Km117.2 : flat spot(-48.02468, -72.49029) can fit 1-2 tents with weather protection by forest. A small stream flowing beside it.

Km117 : river crossing, several logs crossing selection here, because raining and wet, so i crossed by the combination of multiple logs, it looks like more stability and safe. Huge flat area and grassland can fit many tents at both side of the river, weather protection by trees and bushes.

Camp[110.9/500] : can fit 2-3 tents with lake views, easy to collect water, weather protection by trees.

Then i did the short cut that Natalie said, from here walk through the open forest NW to the other valley(Río Bravo). It is completely CC or light BB on some animal path, fun and doable, but just recommend on good weather, otherwise you'll soaking wet by bushes.

Río Bravo is a grey water river, better collect water from some small stream.

Km104.3 : a small stream(-47.97355, -72.55419) flowing good with clear water, small flat spot can fit 1 tent after crossing.

Km103.95 : camping spot(-47.97095, -72.55524) can fit 3-4 tents with fire ring.

Puesto[98.4/553] : Puesto Las Tablas, huge and beautiful grassland for camping, refuge is a small cabin, have a wooden bed, bench, fire pit and some dry wood sticks (for burning) inside, it is possible to sleep inside with a warm fire night, good wind protection but not for rain. Didn't see any water nearby.

Km95.05 : cross a stream with a small waterfall, it'll be completely wet by the waterfall if cross at trail, so I climb to upstream and rock hopping for dry feet.

Puesto[92.3/660] : Puesto El Burro, large grassland but most of them are steep, only small grassland beside the refuge is flat for camping, can fit 2-3 tents with table and fire ring, refuge is a tiny cabin but half of roof is already collapsed, can fit 1 small single person tent for some protection if bad weather, a small stream flowing with clear water 200m before here. Very windy when i was here.

Km85.4 : easy and beautiful walk start!

Puesto[83.9/820] : Puesto La Pampa, large grassland for camping, refuge is a small, nice and clean cabin, have 2 wooden bed, wooden seats, table and fire pit inside, it is a nice place to sleep inside with a warm fire night, good wind protection but not sure for rain. Just like Natalie said you also can pitch a small tent inside. Tiny stream flowing low just in front of the refuge. Have a open toilet with views at here too.

Fords start/end[81.3/854] : rock hopping.

Then i take {36H-D} instead of RR, save 2 times of wet feet crossing of Río Bravo, it is doable and sometimes have an animal path(old trail?) to follow, but easy to lost the path, and overgrown at some part you need to BB, I'm not sure it can save time or not, and only recommend in good weather, otherwise you'll be completely soaking wet by bushes.

Ford[78.6/888] : river crossing of Río Bravo, the second wet feet point. I crossed it at 50m downstream(-47.79880, -72.52101) where the river breaks to 2 parts by island. First part easy rock hopping, second part is just above ankle, the water is grey so i didn't see through the bottom, otherwise I'll throw some rocks for hopping to keep my feet dry.

Ford[77.4/981] : i follow some cairns and crossed it much downstream with rock hopping. It is a beautiful viewpoint for waterfall and the glacier at west! Snow starts here.

Ford[75.4/1023] : easy rock hopping, look at the rocks underwatee here, the west side of valley is white colour, the east side is red, amazing!

Border,pass[73.9/1225] : snow here, but still not problem, go around them easily, or just above ankle posthole. A beautiful lake looks like good for camping 200m before here, but just for good weather because very exposed.

Km72.9 : between two pass, before the second pass you need to go in a wide riverbed, but snow covered the water. You know there is water flowing, you can hear them flowing, but you can't see them. And the snow(bridge) is not thick, not stable enough to walk on them directly, so it take me some time to find out which part is water, which part can walk on it.

Ford[71.8/1262] : snow covered most of the river, and river flowing a little wide here(can't step over), take me some time to find the way to go on it.

Border,pass[71.5/1304] : crazy crazy crazy windy, beautiful views but too windy that i can't open my eyes to look. It is the first time for NOBO to see Cerro Los Mellizos(black sharp tower mountain) at here. Mostly you can arrive there after 1 day. North of here lot of snow but still doable and navigation with lot of cairns easily.

Camp[68.4/1089] : can fit 2-3 tents with log seats and fire ring, some(not much) weather protection by trees and bushes. Stream flowing nearby. Then i continues RR.

Km68.1 : flat area(-47.72665, -72.49681) can fit many tents with amazing glacier views, but no protection. Stream flowing here, also old fire pit beside a tree. Still lot of snow here.

Water[67.3/1041] : snow end and i didn't see any water here. I took RR for going down, it is actually a trail, easy to follow. But some point is steep and a little landslide, walk easily when dry, but maybe a problem if wet or covered by snow.

Fords starts/end[66.7/867] : old camping spot with fire pit 100m before here, nice view but no protection. River breaks into many streams at here, I took about 20min total for putting rocks in streams separately for all the way dry wet crossing by rock hopping.

Km65.85 : shelter(-47.70890, -72.49466) with 1 side protection in good condition, nice for cowboy under it when summer. Flat spot can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring just beside it. Trail easy to miss it because covered by some trees.

From here to km53.2(road), HURDLE RACE start! At least 500 blowdowns you need to step over. No climbing, just step over, easy to walk and follow but muddy and blowdowns, you know that.

Km64.45 : camping spot(-47.69803, -72.49788) under trees, can fit many tents with fire pit and log seats, weather protection by forest.

Km64.05 : i cleared a flat spot(-47.69555, -72.50008) for a single person tent, with great lake, mountain views and i stayed here for 18 hours because of snowstorm, just beside the lake so it is easy to collect water. Weather protection by forest, but if the wind comes from south then nothing help. If you have 15min more, i think can fit one more single person tent here.

Km61.95 : junction of RR, {36H-A} and {36H-05}, easy to miss. Pay attention to wood cutting trace on ground.

Km58.45 : swamp area full of water, you can jump(a huge jump) over it for dry feet. After swamp is a river crossing by narrow log, after the crossing don't go away immediately, looks inside the river, lot of beautiful green water plants here!

Puesto[57.6/677](Calloqueo), Puesto Cayuqueo, refuge is locked, looks like no more people until next summer, because the gate nearby is completely locked by wire too. Beautiful grassland for camping at here, and a shelter with fire pit inside too. Easy to collect water because just beside Río Pedregoso, at here Río Pedregoso still a clear water river.

Fence[56.5/657] : it is a gate and completely locked by wire. Climb it at right side just wooden fence, at left side is barbed wire with fence. Huge exposed grassland with views in this area.

Ford[55.4/656] : third wet feet crossing, also is the deepest crossing at late season April. Looks like above knee at trail crossing, better go upstream 10m walk on the red rock bar, it is flowing very fast but just above half of calf, easy crossing. Flat area for camping at both side of river.

Ford[54.8/650] : crossing a grey water river, so better collect water before it joins main river. Trail crossing looks like up to half of calf, better crossing point at downstream just before 2 river combined, rock hopping there. But be careful for rock hopping, rocks not stable and rolling there, also a pool looks deep just at downstream, don't slide!

Km53.85 : nice flat spot(-47.62754, -72.46476) can fit 2 tents just beside the trail. Looks like camped by someone before.

Ford[53.7/630] : river breaks into 3 parts here, the first and third part is easy rock hopping. The second, main part above ankle at trail crossing, easy. It is the fourth, also the last wet feet crossing.

Puesto[53.1/611] : didn't see anyone when i passed here, but looks like still in using because lot of cooking equipment is outside the refuge. The refuge is not locked but I just take photos and didn't go inside. Can be emergency use for bad weather.

After here, all the way road walking.

Km49.25 : viewpoint(-47.59724, -72.49715) of Laguna Calluqueo, Glacier Calluqueo, Cerro Los Mellizos and Monte San Lorenzo o Cochrane. I camped here, with a 2m rock wall that covers the wind from south, also lot of things can hold my tent's line. A super beautiful spot with amazing sunrise coming up from the glacier!

The next morning i saw a bus coming to here, that i met it before outside Cochrane tourist information, so maybe possible to arrange a shuttle at Cochrane for SOBO?

Km48.5 : Glacier Calluqueo Camping Spot(-47.59382, -72.49962), i look it from high on road, looks like no views but covered by some trees with protection, can fit 2-4 tents with log seats.

Bridge[46.2/394] : Puente Calluqueo, camping spot after the crossing at downstream, can fit 1-3 tents with fire ring.

The next 2 Danger waypoint i didn't understand, it looks like very safe walking on the road?

After 10 minutes i hitched a car to Cochrane, this is the second car i saw in that day. They also take me to Lago Brown and followed {36H-23} to viewpoint(-47.46236, -72.38094) of Cerro San Lorenzo, huge huge huge thank you to them!

Lastly i stayed at Calafate Camping in Cochrane, 6k CLP for camping, good spot with nice refuge(kitchen), hot shower and clean toilet. You also can camping under some shelters if bad weather.

* '''2024-Mar-19 to 2024-Mar-23 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 24A + 02 + 04B / Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [5.5-50.0] + OH36H-24A to the Glacier and back

I got a hitch to the junction at km 5.5. From there I walked for about 2 hours until a car took me to the junction at km 33.9. There is a fence between Rio del Salto and the RR. At the Danger Waypoint (km 43.2) is the fence broken down and the river is accessible. I got a 3rd hitch from there to the Calluqueo Glaciar. I took OH36H-24A to the glacier. Its a good trail, but mostly through forrest without view. Around km 3.0 you can see the glacier + the lake. Its really nice. At the end of OH36H-24A you get a close-up look at the Glaciar. There is a lot of water between km 3.5 and 6. At km 4.1 is a decently flat spot for camping. I camped at km 49.7 next to the RR. I would not recommend the spot in a windy night.

Day 2: RR [50.0-79.9]

There was snow above 1000 meters. Around the Bourder/Pass Waypoints the snow was more than knee deep. It was possible to do it without any snowgear, but it took some time. There was plenty of water along the RR and all Fords were max. knee high.

Day 3: RR [79.9-107.3]

The RR crosses lots of small streams, so there is plenty of water. Puesto at km 83.9 can be used as shelter and has a open outhouse. I camped at km 107.3 on a flat meadow.

Day 4: OH36H-02 [0.0-26.6]

The first 2 km of OH36H-02 are more CC than a trail. After that the trail is easy to follow and in good condition for about 5-6 km. Than the trail starts to become overgrown and later very muddy. Therefore it wasn't to much fun walking this trail. But the valley offers some nice waterfalls and snowy mountains. There was plenty of water and fords were easy.

Day 5: OH36H-02 [26.6-29.0] + OH36H-04B [122.5-132]

I hiked about 2 1/2 hours along the Carreterra Austral until a group of cars passed me and one of them took me to Villa O'Higgins.

* '''2024 Mar 6 to 2024 Mar 12 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: Got the public bus from Villa O'Higgins to Lago Christie at 11am, paid 600 CLP per person. Apparently it comes every few days. We were the only ones on it so the driver dropped us at the trailhead. There is a big sign and a picnic table at the start and the trail is pretty clearly defined. Hiked along Lago Christie and camped at the Northern end at a clear spot on the sand.

Day 2: Kept following a clear track to Lago Alegre. Passed the settlers but noone appeared to be home. Had lunch on the lake at a nice pebbly beach (-48.03641,-72.49016), had a swim and Tom caught a rainbow trout to eat. Had a relaxed day hiking and camped at the very northern end of the lake (-47.98559,-72.53109). Tom caught another trout for dinner. Two others hiking joined us later that night as it was a good camp spot with lake access.

Day 3: Tom caught another trout for breakfast before we started hiking for the day. Rain started getting pretty heavy making the track quite muddy and it was very cold. Had lunch at Las Tablas to get out of the rain. Sun came out so we continued on, although it didn't last. Since it was raining heavily and I was getting very cold, we camped next to El Burro for the night.

Day 4: More rain in the morning. Packed up and hiked to La Pampa for lunch. Got a weather update and it was looking bad for the next day (heavy snow and wind) so we decided to camp at La Pampa. Spent a nice afternoon in the sun with a fire going. The two hikers we camped with before also stayed there that night.

Day 5: Woke up to heavy rain and wind so stayed in bed until 11am, not wanting to cross the pass in these conditions. Snow started around lunch and was heavy enough to stick. Got a weather update and it was looking sunny for the next day so decided to wait it out. Hiked up the river around 5pm to do the river crossing and then camped at the base of the pass at (-47.79854,-72.52191). Started snowing just as we went to bed.

Day 6: Got up early and started up the pass. Lots of snow and ice made it quite slippery but manageable. Had to watch out for the black ice on all the rocks around the river. The snow concealed any tracks but wasn't difficult to navigate with my watch. Snow was about knee deep at the top of the pass. Came down the other side with awesome views down the valley. Took the detour to avoid the river crossing above the canyon. Detour is steep uphill but is worth it as where we ended up crossing didn't even get our shoes wet. Did see a dead horse there though that must have been washed down the canyon. Had lunch near the fallen down puesto on the river. Was nice to get some sun after so many days of rain and snow. Continued on and camped at Glacier Calluqueo.

Day 7: Started walking along the road hoping for a hitch. Was actually very hot. Managed to get a ride after about an hour to Cochrane.

* '''2024-Feb-28 to Mar-03 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matthias'''

Took transport till end of road near glaciar Calluqueo (Jonathan +56940246832, 65000$) as I wanted to walk the pass before the predicted snowfall sets in. Traverse was quite tedious cause of the rainy and cold weather. Met Natalie and Luca halfway, hi :-) Did not meet anyone else during 4 1/2 days! Was accompanied by a smelling(!) dog (of Ruben?) from the camp at Lago Christie until next morning near Rubens house. He slept a bit windsheltered next to my tent - it was cold and a lot of wind! Keep in mind (I didn`t) that once you have reached Lago Alegre there are still 2000hm to go uphill before you reach the MR!

Campsites:
300m before Camp km68.4 on a +-exposed meadow with glaciar view,
in front of Puesto ElBurro (rainshelter inside and a table outside),
Camp km110.9,
on the shore of Lago Christie km 129 just before the path leads uphill in to the forest (a bit wind protection by bushes and Wood)

Did a shortcut between ca. km103.5 and km 100.5. Sometimes good trail, sometimes obstacle course over fallen trees.
Was very lucky with transport to Villa O`Higgins. Got a motorcycle ride all the way from the refugio at km148.6 at 6 pm with a short detour to the border at Rio Mayer. Stayed in Hostal Rio Mayer in Villa O`Higgins (very friendly and talkative, no internet).

28-Feb-24 to 03-Mar-24/4days/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Natalie & Luca

Took a few days off to reconnect with an old friend in Villa O'Higgins and then decided to take him for a test trial on the GPT.

With the help of Martin from Mosco we found out the day we left was the day the subsidized bus leaves from O'Higgins to Lago Christie. Left around 1130 and got to the TH ~13:00. The bus only goes 4x a month and it went twice in the last week of February, not sure how it is organized. Only 3500 each.

A little bit of rain the first day and a lot of rain/snow at the end. The trail was fun, mellow and in good shape, next to no mud. We met Ruben and all of his animals (cutest puppy atm). He offered a camping spot but I am sure the dogs would be all over you at night. We camped at the beginning of Allegra near Refugio entre lagos (NO refugio), -48.09404, -72.49798. At this moment there is no shelter but it looks like someone is working on one, there is a boat at the lake. There is a creek with only still puddles of water so we drank from the lake.
There are few nice camping spots along both Christie and Allegra that are not marked. Did not stop to fish :(. I heard Margarita is in O'Higgins atm.

We made a short cut to avoid the big intersection near Puesto 107. We cut off after camp 110 and ended ~800m near a river camp marked on osm. It was easy and mostly open forest, mainly just a quest to stay on the best animal track as there are a few of them. We basically followed close to where the hill is but not too close bcs that is where the bush is no good.

Camped outside Puesto 98.4, Las tablas. It had no water so fill up before of just go down to the river.

Met Matías - Hi Matías! Even though we were both trying to beat the rain I very much enjoyed the conversation/laughs!

When we got to Puesto 83.9, La Pampa, the rain just began to start and even though it was only lightly raining at the time the forecast was not good for the evening so we decided to stay and enjoy the early day and nice Refugio. The weather got increasingly worse and very strong overnight with snow in the morning. The Refugio is large and clean. It has a fire pit in the corner, an outhouse, extra blankets and tarps, a good table and lots of tools and pots if needed. No other puesto compared. There were only a few small leaks during the night, we pitched a tent inside for added warmth.

The next morning there was a lot of fresh snow and it was still snowing with strong wind at times - so the pass was interesting. We took variant D to avoid the Rio Bravo fords and got soaking wet in the bush, it wasnt very clear where the trail was, needed the GPS. Although the Rio Bravo was very calm and shallow (barely to my knees, 167), the snow made it too cold for my liking. If one is curious about camping on the other side of the river, I think you can make a camp, there are lots of flat spots but not so much wind protection. There were camping possibilities throughout the pass as well. As for the pass, "most" of the trail was not covered by snow bcs the water was flowing down the trail therefore navigation was still okay, a bit harder between passes. Of course the weather improved at camp 68.4...

I know Tomáš managed the La Picota river and it made me curious to try but it made no sense to go for it, the RR that follows the west is an easy trail and the fords afterwords were almost (all but one) jumpable. Sadly what I read about "la playa" is true, there was a dead horse (pieces of it) at the start of the fords, it seemed rather recent so I guess the La Picota ford still kills.
The Refugio after the fords is just a "lean-to". The trail afterwards is okay, starting to get muddy but not bad. A nice camp is possible at -47.66704, -72.50032 bcs of the beautiful view but there is no water, actually not many places to stop between ford and puesto 57.6. We Camped at Puesto 57.6 and met Antonio, super lovely man and we had breakfast with him the following morning. In return I gave him the rest of my walnuts and peanuts, hopefully that was enough. There is not much of a shelter there, teepee style, but you can camp under the trees by the river. His dogs are annoying, got into my food bag while we were talking and then never left us alone. Really nice camping just before his puesto in a big clover field.

Next day super quick walk out to the view point and then got a hitch down to Cochrane easily, lots of people on a cloudy Sunday afternoon.

* '''24-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Variant B, Option 2 / Tomáš'''

Having parted ways with Natalie, who had other commitments, I was not able to get a taxi to end of road so I started walking and hitching at noon. Second car took me for about ten km, then I was passed by ten cars in an hour and then got a hitch to the viewpoint three km from end of the road with a guide going to guide a group to the glacier (they go there by boat!). Our car's engine failed 4 km before the destination, but after 5 minutes a passing car took us there. Mount Cochrane is impressive. I ate there and in an hour another two cars passed, one probably from the puesto further on. It was a Saturday, still vacation period and a beautiful day, it seems hitching is promising under such conditions there. The road is in a very good condition and easily scalable by a non 4x4 car.

The puesto at 53.1 had barking dogs and seems used (maybe a settler?), I did not see it though, it is in the trees. All fords were easy and shallow: definitely under knees. In the beginning there are multiple trails, RR probably has the best route. You cannot avoid fording, I tried. After about ten km, the trail stops being ambiguous. Took variant B (which is mostly a trail, not CC) and slept above the "dangerous ford" (would have been better to stay 500 m lower at the end of the flats). It indeed sounded and looked dangerous after such a hot day. In the morning, I realized the trail to the ford eroded and horses probably cannot go there anymore. A pedestrian still can. The ford was much calmer, very cold but under knees and not strong. I forded it six times unfortunately with bare feet - first to try, than with my backpack and then with my forgotten phone. It hurt even if it is just 5 metres. Going up from the ford, the trail goes to the left of a small stream on top of a small ridge, do not follow the stream as I did. The CC section thereafter is mostly a trail, only invisible on river flats and for about 20 metres in the pass. Going down from the pass, the trail is above the GPX for several hundred metres, going straight and not zigzagging. Rio Bravo was tame after dry weather and at the end of summer, so I took RR. The fords were easy, well under my knees. Puesto el Burro at 92.3 would be a nice place to camp. Utterly scaring a lonely large bull, I pushed to Puesto Tablas, which has a roof that protected me from drops of rain.

Puesto at 107.4 looked nice and standing, not sure if it was locked, by any means very nice place to camp. I did not notice the "bridge ?". The ford was mellow, wide but ankle deep. Option 1 at least to variant 01J is actually a used trail, the bridge on it is over a marsh, not sure why it is a waypoint. Decided to take option 2 thinking I would get an easier hitch on Carretera Austral and trusting others who did not like the lake part that much and hating mosquitoes. The first part to variant 01I is partly a cow trail, partly a BB through open forrest. Take 01J instead, should be a clear trail and the ford should be as easy as the one on RR. From there on, 8 km to an unmarked ford through a first creek marked on OSM (it originates from a lake on map, the trail is clear and looks used. 02A was overgrown after 100 clear meters, so do not take that (I did not see the other end of it either and I looked). From the ford, the condition of the trail worsens for 7ish km to camp at 16.4. It is partially overgrown, occasionally with thorns. There is still space for legs, but arms are needed to clear the way. This portion is also mostly over open tundra-like terrain above the river. It is a bit marshy but not much after dry days. The views are splendid! Somebody with a machete would have fun here. Took option 02B, which I think is the actual trail, but it is hard to tell as it goes through a marsh there. Overall the overgrown part is maybe 2-3 km. Puesto Chirola at 17.6 is actually an abandoned settler house, still locked but in heavy rain you could probably get in through a window, the roof is still mostly ok. I slept there, with dusk mosquitoes appeared.

It rained during the night and probably because of that, the trail got muddy. It is however being used and mostly clear and mostly easy to follow. Refuge without water is without water. It is meant for cyclists and is in good condition. It would sleep easily four people amd uneasily double that. It is always well ventilated with always open windows (rain should not get through), so probably no need to fear the mouse virus. The occasional tundra, wetness and continous rain with occasional glimpse of a glacier finally made me feel like I am in proper Patagonia. On the Carretera, there are not many cars. Started walking and hitching at three PM. As the road is divided by a ferry, cars pass you at (in high season) 2-hour bursts of at most 8 cars, as I was informed by the one passing cyclist. The first burst was just three cars and two motorcycles and they all passed me. It is actually a one lane compacted road where cars in opposite directions must avoid each other. No luck with second burst of three cars. Finally a second car from the third burst took me after 4 hours on the road. The second refugio around km 35 did not look as nice.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : good condition, a lot of fallen trees that slows you down but not really bad / the trail was not muddy as we had good sunny days
- Water : lots of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : the refugio at km 126,1 has been destroyed by a tree so we camped closer to the lake amongst the trees // at km 148,6 The refugio is really nice, we could make a fire and have a great night before heading the next day to O'Higgins on the long gravel road
- Weather : sunny and a little bit of rain
- River crossing : easy, the river Bravo was not too high and not too strong so we didn't take the variant D
- Resupply : in Cochrane everything you need
- Overall : we were lucky to have an easy hitchike for the first 20km and for the last 7km // we also liked this section that offers really different landscapes and you feel really remote

* '''From 2024-01-06 to 2024-01-12 // 6,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT D // Quentin Clavel'''

After the small part in the forest, I followed the gravel road, which began to be nice from the Laguna la Clara. Some nice miradors along the roads, especially the last one, salto Rio Perez, which was pretty impressive !

Then you begin the track los Pioneros. Pretty easy to follow, a bit muddy, but I thought it would have been worse, the last sunny weeks made it dryer than expected.

From there, it's a sequence of up and down, with amazing views, on Lago Christie then on Lago Alegre, surrounded by mountains.

Some easy bushbashing which is more like cross country at the end of Lago Alegre to arrive along the Rio bravo.

The you go along the Rio bravo until cross it. I took the option D to avoid to cross it three times, it's bushbashing but pretty easy to follow as there's a kind of path which was created to go around the small cliffs, and have to cross rio bravo only once.

On the section, at this time, I haven't got any problem at all to pass the rivers who were pretty low and with weak current.

Then I arrived in the mountains and that was just amazing ! Even with an uncertain weather and lots of clouds !

I had an amazing bivy in front of the impressive calluqueo glacier then it was the looong Gravel road to Cochrane, but really scenic !

During all the section it was easy to find water as there's water everywhere ! Some nice camp spot too.

Mosquitoes and these spiky plants who stay scratched to your shoes and socks are the only annoying stuff.

Plenty of crowberry and Calafate on the track. Delicious and perfect snacks on the road !

Last but not least, if you've always dreamed to try hurdles in athletism, this section is for you ! You'll have to pass threw hundreds of fallen trees ! Enjoy !

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-08 / 7.5 days / NOBO / Villa O'Higgins - Cochrane / RR and Option 36H-D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section, especially the part of the pass, with awesome views on glaciers and mountains. We found the 2 lakes part nice but less impressive.

For us, the most difficult with this section was to walk with heavy backpacks and to deal with the hundreds of mosquitoes on the camps near the two lakes. We had the chance to have dry trails most of the time and it helped us a lot. If it rains a lot before you start this section, you will need more time because the trail can get muddy really fast.

After the first 9km in the forest, we tried to hitchhike from Villa O'Higgins to Lago Christie but we weren't lucky and couldn't find a car on a 1st of January. We only had a lift the second day for 15km by the carabineros. There is nearly no car passing on the X905 road so plan a day or two of extra food if you plan to hitchhike here. Taking a private transport to Lago Christie could also be a solution but it's expensive (about 70'000 CLP according to Martin from El Mosco in Villa O'Higgins).

There is not much to say about the 2 lake part, we found the trail easy to follow and some nice shelter along the route. Apparently, there is a lot of trout in Lago Alegre. We didn't try to fish since it was raining but we let a peanut butter jar with a spoon (hook) and some fishing line rolled around the jar in the puesto next to Settler {36H} [118.9/486] (Margarita Bustos). She's actually not living there but the puesto is open and a nice shelter to cook (we put the tent next to it).

For the second part with the pass, we found the trail also easy to follow. The OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} didn't took us too long and saved us at least 2 river crossing. All the other fords were sometimes wide but easy to pass.

After 7 days, we tried to hitchhike on the X901 road near the Laguna Calluqueo and were really lucky. After only 4km, a car stopped and took us to X {36H} [5.5/267]. Maybe there is more traffic on this road than on the other side, especially with good weather during the holidays.

* '''2023-Dec-25 to 2023-Dec-29 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We arranged a ride to skip the first 50km of the roadwalk. The trail was surprisingly good and well-trodden throughout, i.e. visually easy to follow. Some muddy sections here and there and steeper climbs and descents. Plenty of water throughout.

The river crossings didn't pose any difficulties and we were blessed with good weather, despite one rainy night. The views were amazing - that so low down you could be face to face with glaciers!

We did not find the trail around lakes any harder than the rest of the section. A few times the route goes on the coast, i.e. you need to walk through the water, but it was not an issue. In two cases the route splits into two, the correct trail being the easier one to miss, so need to pay attention to nav. Met Ruben the settler, very nice and friendly guy. We also met 4 other GPT hikers on this section, which was a bit of a shock.

We walked 30km of the dirt road after Lago Christie until we finally got a hitch to Villa O'Higgins. Barely any traffic on the road, especially in the afternoon.

* '''2023-12-07 EXP-OH-TL-I 1day / Anh'''
There is a damaged and not yet reopened route from Villa O’Higgins to Glacier Mosco: EXP-OH-TL-I & EXP-OH-CC&TL-I
Together they are 24 km return and with a daypack it could work.
The EXP-OH-TL-I trail is very well maintained and relatively well marked. There is even a very nice Refugio Puesto Rivera + campsite for tents along the way. BUT from km 7 the trail is damaged by landslides and the section after that is overgrown. I tried the last km via BB through the forest. After that everything should be clear and only CC to the Mosco glacier. Unfortunately, I make very slow progress with BB, it simply takes too much time and with a temperature of 15°C the river crossing afterwards would be dangerous. Unfortunately I have to abort (safety first) & return.

* '''2023-12-10 / 4 days / RR + OH-TL-V / SOBO / Anh'''

A very experienced hiker/local in Villa O'Higgins advised me against NoBo due to high water levels in the next few days regarding river crossings.

Day 1: With a private transfer to Laguna Calluqueo I had to hike a few more kilometers to the end of Ruta X-901 because it is private land closed by a gate. The first two river crossings were a bit above knee and sometimes strong current. The trail after that in the forest is actually made for horses, there are a lot of obstacles like fallen trees, overgrown bush, swampy paths. It is particularly misleading when the RR and horse path separate because it is suddenly very strange without horse tracks. It has rained and with the snow melting, the paths and streams are almost indistinguishable. I make very slow progress through the obstacles.
The river crossing (Ford km 66.5) was long but in the evening without any problems (knee-deep). The path afterwards RR-CC-A to the camp was steep uphill, but more pleasant than in the forest. As you can see, this trail is only for hikers and it was very rarely used.

Day 2: It was CC up, across the border from Argentina & back into Chile. At this time there are still many snowfields to cross and therefore Ford (km 71.8) was under the snowfield, which made it very precarious for me. The river crossing Ford (km 77.4) was up to my hips with a strong current, but is not dangerous. Overall, I was much faster because there were hardly any obstacles (only Fords and completely swampy meadow).

Day 3: The way back from yesterday + 250m river crossing should be easy and pleasant like yesterday! But there was a strong headwind & snow = snow confusion. Then there was the fog and the infamous white-out. My footprints from yesterday were already filled with fresh snow, but still recognizable. I didn't have a long break, so I reached the day's destination very quickly.
Bored, I just carried on hiking and didn't find the way back in the forest from day 1 so bad. I got through all the obstacles surprisingly quickly with the following strategy:
- I had put on remedies on the way out, it had helped a lot. And I run like a horse, don't think twice, just jump over obstacles. The path is made for horses.
- The way back is from the top, the path is much easier to recognize.
- New strategy: just follow the horse tracks, even if I leave the RR.
In the end, I had completed the entire way back from two days earlier in one day. It was about 27km, only possible because it was mostly downhill (450m uphill, 700m downhill).
The price for this strategy was scratches and mini cuts from knees to shoes, very unpleasant at every river crossing.

Day 4: OH-TL-V to the glacier at Laguna Calluqueo. You have to cross the river right at the beginning, it was a bit over your knees but easy. After that it's a slow climb of almost 700m. There were only a few tricky places: mini path on the precipice or slippery downhill. Overall, the path was very easy to recognize and very pleasant to run. Water is only available again at km 3.5, so you should take your time and enjoy the trail at a leisurely pace.
During the night, a tent pole broke and the tent was damaged. There are no outdoor stores in Cochrane and you can't buy a new tent. In addition, a section on RR-GPT35 from Tamango entrance through Patagonia Park was not yet open.

==Season 2022/23==

*'''13.03.23 - 18.03.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins / 5.5 days'''
We camped approximately 3 km outside of Cochrane to get an early start on the first day. After walking some km we got pretty lucky and got two hitchhikes and were able to skip 41 km until km 53. The views in between were amazing though, especially Glaciar Calluqueo. The next day it was supposed to rain a lot until the afternoon. Therefore we planned half a day in the tent and went to a small simple shelter at km 65.8, that is indicated on Gaia.

It didn't rain as bad as last predicted and we were able to continue around 2 pm. The weather got surprisingly good then. Nice stretch over the pass. We camped at around km 76 next to the river. All rivercrossings were all pretty chill, even with Anna beeing 1,63m. But there were tons of small streams, muddy pools and rivers to cross. We had no dry feet for 5 days. There were also lots of fallen trees to climb over/walk around from Puesto la Pampa until Lago Christie, therefore that stretch took us longer than expected. The trail between approx. km 105 to 107 is starting to get really overgrown. It was still wet from the rain and our pants were completely drenched after we got through there, even without rain.

We met the settler at km 118.9. He even invited us in, but we continued on to make some more km that day and camped at km 122.9, which is a pretty nice spot at the lake.

The next morning we had to slip into frozen shoes to continue. After another friendly encounter with the next settler, we were happy to reach the dirtroad, were it felt good to gain kilometers a lot faster again. We spent the night at the refugio km 148.7 with a fireplace.

On our final day there were some fantastic views. Just when the road got more dull and we started our first brake after approx. 11 km, a car of the Carabineros passed and they took us to Villa O'Higgins. A pretty lucky section for us :)

* '''Feb. 2-8 / Zach + Veronica / 36H-Regular Packrafting Route / 7 days'''
I did the hiking parts of 36H with Veronica. After hitching the Carratera I had a windless late morning paddle from the Lago Esmeralda picnic site where a group of military were training in rafts. Veronica described the hike to Lago Alegre. To start Lago Christie, Option X would put you better in line with the wind which was strong, blowing straight through the narrow all the way to the cozy refugio at the otherwise blustery southern end of Christie. Just past Salto Pérez there are two rapids visible from the road. Putting in after those, Rio Perez was a scenic and swift ride with avoidable submerged trees all the way to Rio Mayer, which is stronger than it looks. I put in again past the first mortal rapid and rode straight to the take out before the second mortal rapid. The waypointed rapids in between were very challenging, almost flipping me twice. After taking out of Rio Mayer, I hopped the black fence for option 27. The minor roads in this area are undulating and steep but well maintained with painted guardrails, bridges, and directional signage at intersections. I had a pleasant conversation with one worker on ATV. I tried to do Option 27E but the wind was too strong on the lake in the evening and also the next morning. Backtracking, I paddled the pleasant Rio Briceño between the impressive falls near the lake down to another set of falls near the lower bridge (between[-48.2710, -72.492] and [-48.2726, -72.4772]). The wind on Lago Briceño seemed calm in the cove of the sheltered picnic refuge/dock (km 251.6), but around the corner a strong headwind turned me around. The walk to Lago El Salto had commanding views. Lagos El Salto and Cisnes both provided tail winds. The short trail between these lakes was overgrown and difficult to follow, but it was worthwhile to follow the trail as bushwhacking often led to spiky plant jail. Tailwind continued all the way to the O’Higgins bridge. I highly recommend El Mosco Hostal/camping.

* '''2 to 8 of February 2023 / Véronica & Zach / GPT36H RR SOBO / 7 days'''
Route: Cochrane - Mirador Glaciar Colluqueo - Río Pedregoso - Paso La Picota - Río Bravo - Lago Christie - Río Mayer - Villa O'Higgins

We stayed at Camping Calafate while we were in Cochrane. Great camping area with a kitchen, laundry service, hot showers, and wifi for 6,000 clp per person. The owner is very kind too.

We were quite fortunate this section to enjoy good weather almost the whole way. We were able to hitch the first few km on the Carretera Austral. Then Zach packrafted across Laguna Esmeralda while I took the primary road on the RR to the east of it. Very little traffic on the primary road, and we walked most of it, only ended up being able to hitch a ride for the last 10 km or so, to the junction at 39.9 km where the RR becomes a minor road.

At that point it was getting late, and we wanted to camp at the waypoint Lake, Camp {36H} [109.8/334] along the minor road. We set up our tents, but after it was dark, around 10:30 p.m., we were surprised by the arrival of a man with a dog and a horse. Talking with him, we realized he was the owner of the land we were on, and his house was right nearby (we hadn't seen it when we initially set up camp). He said it was ok and that we could camp here though, that we didn't have to move.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we packed our things and walked to the house, with the intention of thanking the man for letting us camp on his property. There were no signs of life around his house, so we assumed he might be still sleeping or was already out and about. So we left along the dirt road again. His dog followed us. We figured it would eventually return home. Afted ~6km, we were surprised by the settler coming at us down the road on his horse with his whip raised in a threatening way. He was very angry and upset at us about his missing dog, and initially thought we had taken his dog with us on purpose. We did our best to explain that the dog had simply followed us, we did not coax it or feed it, and that we were very sorry it followed us and had no bad intentions. After a bit of discussion, the settler calmed down and we were able to chat about where we were hiking and such. We seemed to part on good terms, but it wasn't a pleasant experience, and we wished we'd known that the land on the south shore of the lake where we camped belonged to a settler, and is not really a viable wild camping place. The GPS tracks only indicate "buildings" nearby, but that waypoint should say "settler" instead, and perhaps the camping waypoint by the lake should be removed. S 47° 30.166', W 072° 31.809' is where the settler house is.

The rest of the trail went well. The views of the various glaciers were wonderful, and we had mostly good weather the whole way. Zach took Option 36H-B that necessitates fording La Picota. It was early in the morning and he was able to ford it with the water reaching his waist. I took the regular route further west, which was a bit steep on shale rocks at first, but easy to follow.

The ford at km 77.4 was the most difficult ford in this section for me, the current was strong and cold and went up to my hips. Fording Río Bravo was easier, and we only did it once, next to the laguna. Option 36H-D had virtually no bushwhacking — there was a clear path to follow in the forest.

There were regular water sources between Puesto La Pampa (km 83.9) and Puesto Tablas (km 98.4), as well as occasional good spots to camp.

Once we got to Lago Alegre, I walked the regular hiking route east of the lake while Zach packrafted across with a good tailwind. Very beautiful trail, loads of crowberries and Calafate berries to eat too. I took Option 36H-G, where there is a large tree trunk you can walk across over the river. Zach packrafted Lago Christie as well, although the wind was much stronger in the afternoon. The refuge at the south end of Lago Christie is a good place to sleep out of the wind.

The roadwalk to town was quite scenic, with a few refuges along the way. Zach took the packrafting route while I stayed on the minor road. I ended up walking all of it except for the final 8 km. There was very little traffic, and I didn't mind walking through the gorgeous landscapes.

* '''Dec 2022 Frank'''
There is a bus from Cochrane to Lago Brown twice a week (see transport section) Taking it to the junction with Route 901, a little after the bridge over Rio Tranquilo, will save a 34KM road walk.

* '''GPT36H and Option 2 / Yannic & Mirjam / 22-Dec-2022 / Southbound'''
Regular Route to Option 2 We started from Cochrane and did the first part on the Carretera Austral by car stop. After that you get on a side road with very little traffic. We didn't have a car in 4 hours so we hiked. Then there was one that didn't take us, then nothing again. In the end we hiked everything. We wanted to spend the night at Laguna Confluencia (south at Camp 109.8/334). Unfortunately we were surprised by barking dogs, but could not see a house. We therefore returned to the road and spent the night a few hundred metres further ahead in the meadow. Next day on the Minor Road and Trail was nice and easy. We spent the night next to the Puesto Cayuqueo. From there we went through the forest, which is partly badly damaged by storms. Many fallen trees. But you can always find the way again. We then took the western route (not 36H-B). The river only has to be crossed once at a shallow point. Partly very sloping path, but easy to pass. We crossed Rio Bravo at the lagoon, which was even possible in the evening. We spent the night at the lagoon and hiked everything on the east side the next day. OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} was well passable. Nice place to camp near Puesto Tablas at S 47.92184 W 72.56781.

Option 2 All went well and we were set for an "easy" exit via option 2 - which surprised us.... The path is up and down. Partly well passable and easy path, partly very overgrown (up to bush bashing). Although we had only light rain, the path was very marshy and matchy. We sank in up to our knees. Nice refugio with fireplace at the end of the trail. The Carreteral Austral is not very busy. Cars only come when the ferry docks in Rio Bravo. It is best to check the timetable in advance. Then you can wait comfortably in the refugio. El Mosco is perfect to wait for the ferry in O'Higgins. For us 6 days....

* '''2022 Dec Frank 6 days mainly SOBO'''

As weather was initially poor I split the section as follows: 1. Got bus from Cochrane towards Lago Brown, got out @ road junction near Rio Tranquilo bridge, walked NOBO back to Cochrane. 2. While I was waiting for the ferry in Villa O'Higgins I walked out about 25KM NOBO to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched back to O'Higgins. 3. I again got the bus towards Lago Brown, got out @ the same junction & walked the central section of the route SOBO in 4 long days.

1. NOBO, nearly all on road. You pass by the 'mortal falls' on Rio Tranquilo (by the bridge) About 1KM further on the road was blocked by aggressive dogs who came up from a settlement about 800M off the road. I had to shout to the settler to call them off. Around 7KM out from Cochrane the road bends left at a metal crash barrier. I left the RR here & went over the low crash barrier & continued straight ahead on forest tracks, quicker & nicer than the road. About 1KM from Cochrane you return to the road by climbing over a small wooden gate.

3. I walked on the road past Calluqueo glacier then on a trail. After the first puesto the track fades out among fallen trees. Camped by a ruined shelter. I crossed the river on RR the next day. La Picota crossing is for horses & best avoided on foot. The RR crossing was easy. After the crossing continue straight ahead & go up the far hillside, pick up a small trail going left above a bluff about 70 metres up. Continued over the 2 border passes. There are some cliffs you need to go round when descending the first pass . There will be snowfields early in the season also. I crossed Rio Bravo high up between two waterfalls, descended to cross it again by the lake, then stayed on LHS of Rio Bravo. No trail initially on LHS of river & a lot of bush bashing over bluffs but judging by later comments the route may now be improved. I continued down to Lago Alegre. There is a settler just as you reach Lago Alegre. She was friendly & allowed me to sleep in her barn. She radioed Ruben, the settler who lives on Lago Christie, to let him know I was coming. It's slow going round the lakes with lots of up & down over bluffs. The hut between the two lakes had been used by sheep & was not in v. good condition. I met Ruben about half way round Lago Christie. He was friendly but I continued on to camp by a ruined hut after descending from bluffs to the lake. I walked out the road to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched from there to Villa O'Higgins. There is a good hut on the road at the junction with the X905 road. Another hut further on but it's dusty. All other huts marked on the route are in poor condition or ruined, they are mostly good for cooking & camping outside. The weather for the central section was good so I didn't have any problems. It's possible to hitch part of the road sections - traffic is sparse but they will usually stop. In both cases when you reach the road there is nothing, you need to walk out about 15KM & then start hitching.

==Season 2021/22==
* '''GPT 36P/ Ruta de Los Pioneros/ Option Río Baker and Valle de los Ñadis/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-20 / 9.5 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald'''
I packrafted from Balsa Baker (Cochrane) 50km downstream. On this section I faced 2 rapids. The first one -47,41143, -72,90798 has to be paddled from the right side (between 2 rocks). After the river is united again, stay in the center to avoid the swirls on the right side. The second rapid (class 3) needs to be ported, at least the first 20m. At the confluence with Río de los Ñadis I left the River and met with Jonas. We took a 20km Roadwalk southwards and entered the Valle de los Ñadis. Unfortunately we didn’t had Jan’s new GPS Tracks in this Part and got kind of lost on day 2, because of a misunderstanding with a settler. Now we know, that the trail is all the way to family Caucamán on the right side of the valley. We shared a mate with Ariel Caucamán, who explained us, how to get to Lago Desplaye. Found the lake after some struggles with navigation and camped right next to it. Luckily there was only some wind the following morning, so we made it with my Packraft to the stunning Glacier. Followed the river bank of Río Desplaye down to Lago Allegre. I packrafted Lago Alegre and Lago Christie, while Jonas walked. I was faster because the wind was in my favorite. The weather turned really bad with strong wind and rain on day 8. We stayed in the Refugio (-48,20300, -72,33202) close to the airport and made a fire. Because of bad weather conditions we decided to walk on the road to Villa O’Higgens instead of discovering the lakes.

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Martín Lizondo / 3-Feb-2020 / Regular Hiking Southbound'''
At this date the route is perfectly traversable. The settlers are happy to receive visitors. Path well visible 95% of the time. No snow at the pass and no dangerous river crossings, but only some suggestions: 1. cross Rio Bravo only once (47º 47' 53,49" S, 72º 31' 15,78" O) and then continue on the east margin with some bush bashing, instead of crossing it multiple times; 2. consider crossing the dirty river of sector Alegre at 48º 2' 20,65" S, 72º 29' 27,81" O instead of the gps track regular point nearer to the house. Way to Villa O’Higgins, at the road, Julia Torres offers place for tent and great fresh food ( 48º 15' 41,47" S, 72º 25' 43,52" O ). Good luck and enjoy!

* '''GPT36H Regular Packrafting Route / Southern End: Laguna Clara to Villa O‘Higgins'''
2020-Jan-08 1.5 days Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck

The „Ruta de los Pioneros“ is one of the historic routes that was created and used by the first settlers in the last century. This route connected Villa O’Higgins with Cochrane long before the Carreta Austral was completed in the year 2000.

The northern and the southern terminus; approx. 50 km on each end; are now upgraded to gravel roads. Only the roughly 100 km in the middle remain a classic animal trail made and created by people on horses to drive cattle.

To bypass as much as feasible of these gravel roads we have investigated in recent years multiple alternatives on both ends of GPT36H. Especially with a packraft most of these gravel road kilometers can be bypassed on a very attractive combination of lakes and rivers with shorter portages in between.

We now investigated and verified a route that first crosses the 2 km wide Lago Claro and than connects on an excellent 2 km trail to Rio Meyer. To continue either only cross Rio Meyer (like we did) or float downstream o. this river up to 4 km (alternative river exit to be scouted first!). An perfectly maintained trail leads then to Lago Biceño (2 to 6 km depending on only crossing Rio Meyer or floating downstream up to 4 km on Rio Mayer). Here a decision needs to be made depending on wind: either paddle a part of Lago Briceño or or continue walking 8 km to Salto on an scenic very well maintained trail (Alternatively a 6 km long trail connects from Lago Briceño to Lago Salto on a different route). After traversing 4 km on Lago Salto a 1 km short animal trail leads to Lago Cines. Once you reach Lago Cisnes it’s 13 km on a combination of lakes and rivers that gets you very close to Villa O’Higgins. Only the last 3 km into the village must be walked on a gravel road.

We travelled this route in 1.5 days and really enjoyed the landscape, the excellent trails and the scenic paddling. Even in suboptimal weather this route is feasible and offers plenty of alternatives and escape routes. Therefore I will re-route the regular packrafting route of GPT36H to this route.

Between Lago Claro and Lago Salto we discovered the best maintained trails of the entire Aysen region. Bridges cross even the smallest streams and all muddy areas are crossed on wooden passages. After years of hiking in this region this came as a surprise. But we also know why. These trails were not created to serve the public but a single family: los “Luksic”, the richest clan of Chile (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrónico_Luksic_Abaroa). They buy up huge plots of land in this region to create family resorts and as investments. The land between Lago Claro and Lago Salto is owned to my knowledge by this family. And they have the money to contract a large stuff to i.e. create and maintain trails on their properties. What was nice: when a group of 3 employees passed us on a trail on quarts they did not challenge us but gave use useful recommendations how to continue. Legally, access to lakes, rivers and the coast must be given in Chile even if the private property i.e. surrounds a lake but landlords can make it difficult anyway. To my knowledge all access routes from public roads a locked but since we accessed this area on water we did not have to climb over locked gates. Therefore this route seams to me suitable for packrafters.

Multiple route variations are feasible that link in further lakes. Short bushwhacking portages might be required in this case but the landscape and vegetation seams generally more open than the Valdivian rain forrest on the Aysen coast. Someone can easily spend up to 5 days discovering other packrafting routes in this area.

*'''11/12/2019 - les 2 As - regular hiking route'''

Hi! We finished this day the section 36 from north to south. It took us 6 days without the last 37 kms on the road (we hitchhiked on this part). It was rough, we have had 2 days of bad weather (only rain at our altitude but it changes everything). You are isolated in the middle of nowhere and we met no one during 5 days. Officially no bush bashing but sometimes the path is barely invisible and unmaintained so hard to walk. From the 3rd day to the end, we have had many rivercrossings. Some were easy, some not and some also quite dangerous. With all the snow melting, the level of the river is very high and the current is strong (I do not recommand to try these fords without walking poles, these saved us). Same situation with the lakes we walked near. Their level is high and often the path was submerged and we had to walk litteraly in the lake (sometimes up to the waist). Luckily we met 2 cabañas (2 last nights) to dry our clothes and sleep under a roof. This made the section even more wonderful than it already was. A great experience!

* '''2019 Dec / Olrik / Northbound'''

From O'Higgins there are 50km on a dirt road to the beginning of the sendero. There are some open refugios on the way to sleep. you can also arrange a paid transportation from O'Higgins. Hitchhiking is possible but there is not much traffic. The sendero was in pretty bad shape due to the weather conditions. Muddy and flooded all the way near the lakes. We ended up turning back as we did not plan to walk that slow and did not have enough food, and we felt it was safer. We met Matthieu (see below) and they completed it so his report seems better. Puesteros are really nice though.

* '''2019 Dec / Matthieu / Northbound Regular HR : 9 days'''
A very difficil trekk for us. Lots of river crossings, sometimes unsafe, and we had very bad weather conditions that make us last 9 days on the trekk, with hitchiking 40 km after Villa and 30 km before Cochrane. It could habe been more rapid though, but we walked "tranquilito". So I would recommend to take 10 days of food,and the chileans agreed with this.

I wont talk about the routes parts, because just long and we hitchhiked most.

So 1st Part : The 2 lakes : A very technical trekk, very aquatic. Sometimes we had to walk in the lake (not dangerous though), and the trail by the lakes is very hilly and muddy, and the progression can be very slow. It was for us, with mostly only rain. 1 dangerous rivercrossing : Before El Caleuche, Strong river but a big fat trunk above perfect for crossing.We didnt search for another way of crossing, so maybe there are some safe places by the water.

On this part, a few puestos good for shelters : between the two lakes, a good caban with possibility of making fire and a roof of metal and walls, very nice, two beds of wood, we slept in it well protected. El Caleuche : at the middle of the Lago alegre, near a abandoned house. POssibility of fire, but not really a good roof. We slept aside in the tents. The place is really nice though

2 houses of settlers on the way : - Ruben at the beginning of the Lago Christie, always happy to have visitors and share a mate. - At the end of the Lago Allegre a little bit south west from the trail (a rivercrossing a bit strong to go to the caban, or a "bridge" called Bridge ?-4 on the GPS waypoints, with 2 trunks, that we took in the morning to go back to the trail. A bit dangerous though, better to let Carmen show you how to cross): Ringo y Carmen, amazing persons too who let us plant the tent and permitted us to warm with a good mate, a meal and a wonderful smile, during the Christmas night.

2nd part : Rio Bravo and the pass We thought that the worst was behind but we had more strong weather conditions in this part. A few advises for the rivercrossings of the Rio Bravo : I would advise NOT to follow the GPS tracks that follow the normal trail on GPS devices (that is made normally for horses). All the locals (local guides in villa o higgins, Ruben, Carmen and Ringo) were agreed and told us all to follow the east side of the Rio UNTIL the Laguna. The crossing here is very safe, the rio not strong nor profund at all, and you have to cross it ONLY ONCE, instead of 4 or 5 (dont remember). To stay on the east side, there is a little cross country by the forest, a little bit technical and slow but not dangerous, and you can camp at the laguna on the east side. We saw some cairns in the forest too, on the last hill before the laguna, so the locals indeed use this way. We (very badly) abandonned this plan and passed by the normal way just near the camping site west from the river before the Laguna (really bad weather, really bad decisions !) and the rivercrossings (3 I think) were, for me, very dangerous with strong current in profund water, but there was a lot of rain and wind, so I wont judge during good conditions. We were frozen when we arrived at the camping site. I was very angry at me though to not have listened to the locals and taken all those risks.

For the pass, not very difficult, but we had (again) very strong weather conditions with even snow, and finished at the camp at the north side completely frozen. Know that it can be very exposed !

Last Part : Rio La Picota After the camping : Two choices - Following the normal road, made for horses. The rivercrossing is completely impossible, unless you want to join the fishes. Even for horses I don't understand how they do it. The Waypoint "Dangerous" totally make sense. - The GPS tracks : perfect to follow, and finished by a beautiful trail of cairns by the cliff (the optionnal trail OH on GPS track), very safe. The river crossing this way is very safe, the river is extremely large, separated and never go far from the ankle.

The rest we didn't have any technical difficulties. A trekk not to take lightly, and with much respect. Take advises to the locals before. Every one is happy to talk about it in Villa. They have the bad habbit to say that it's an easy way though !

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe / 6 days / northbound / regular hiking route'''

This was a tough section for us! It rained and it rained and it rained and the trail turned to mud and was pretty overgrown in parts. We took the optional Hiking route after reaching Rio Bravo heading South to the Carretera Austral because we didn't feel comfortable forging on, knowing there was a high pass that was probably getting tons of snow instead of our rain, and a "dangerous river ford" that we were afraid would be tok dangerous with flooding too. The snow-line appeared to drop as low as 700 meters one night! We made surprisingly slow progress because of the conditions (entire trail flooded knee deep and extremely muddy after 6 days of rain) - were glad to have extra food with us. On the bail out route, about 10km from reaching the safety of the Carratera there was a pretty big river to cross. It was swollen after all the rain and scary and nearly floated us away. From the Carratera we hiked about 20 minutes before catching a lift back to Villa O'Higgins

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Walk through town and join Highway 7, a moderately trafficked dirt road. The Regular Hiking Route follows X-901, a beautiful but fenced dirt road that culminates in the view of a stunning glacier, for about 28 km until it ends at a blockade just after the Mirador Calluqueo. Along X-901 there are few residences but extensive fence line on both sides. At the end of the road, the route transitions into a braided single track trail that may be confusing to follow.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: I recently changed the regular packrafting route of GPT36H. This change avoids 35 km of gravel and adds around 70 km of paddling on the two lakes and one river. It’s a big detour but adds impressive beauty. Note that paddling Lago Cochrane is very challenging as wind can be firce. Follow the regular packrafting route only if you are willing and prepared to possibly wait several days on the shore of Lago Cochrane if wind makes paddling this lake unsafe.

The trail, called La Ruta de Los Pioneros since it is frequently used by the local people, occasionally passes run down refugios as it winds through the forest. At the beginning of the climb to the highest pass, the trail joins a glacial river. Eventually the trail leaves the river to the west and follows a higher route above the valley that is occasionally marked by stone cairns. The top of the pass is at approximate elevation 1.300 m. From this point, there are several kilometers of very exposed hiking among rolling hills.

The track descends down to treeline at a small, unnamed lake which is the source of the Río Bravo. Join the river and cross it as necessary. There are some stone cairns that mark the way, but they can be hard to spot. When the route is unclear, just follow the river bed. Where the trail deviates from the river bed to the east, it becomes easier to follow. The trail soon climbs about 80 m and remains above Río Bravo. Here there is the occasional small area to camp. To reach Lago Alegre, the trail leaves Río Bravo and travels through an open forest.

Packrafters put in for Lago Alegre at a red sand beach. In general, both banks are very steep and heavily vegetated, but there are some flat areas near the shore where it may be possible to camp. Take-out is located at a rocky beach on the southeast end. 100 m from the Lago Alegre shoreline is an intact refugio; if you look closely inside, you may spot the etchings of GPT trail blazers, Jan and Meylin.

From the refugio, there is a well-formed track to Lago Christie. The Regular Hiking route around the east side of Lago Christie is generally easy to follow, but be aware of the occasional spurs that leads away from the main route. The track climbs and descends frequently as it makes its way around the lake and offers a beautiful view of several glaciers. Watch for the occasional stone cairn or red spray-painted arrow to indicate the way. Camping is possible in the forest.

The route exits onto X-911, a well formed and lightly trafficked gravel road. X-911 ends at X-905, and hikers continue to follow this road for around 20 km towards VIlla O’Higgins. X-905 is fence lined most of the way with the occasional residence.

Río Mayer is a big, no-nonsense river that is swift at higher flows. It does however mellow out where the GPS route indicates packrafters should put in (a small beach on the other side of the fence).

The Regular Hiking Route follows the Carretera Austral into Villa O’Higgins.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Villa O’Higgins

*2024/25 Michael and Kasia
The cash thing in Villa O'Higgins is no longer such a problem. All six of the grocery stores and the hardware store accepted credit cards. We were also able to pay for our accommodation and for the boat with a card as well. There is still no ATM, so it would be smart to have some cash (not all the panaderías take cards for example, and sometimes network issues prevent card machines from working), but it shouldn't be necessary to bring a huge stack of cash.

The biggest thing to realize about Villa O’Higgins is that nearly all of the lodging and restaurant options only take cash and there is no ATM in town. The closest place to withdraw money is Cochrane which is a 9-hour drive. Fortunately, there are two grocery stores in town that take credit cards. Lodging options vary from camping to a bed in a hostel.
2024/Joscha
I would recommend Los Cuatreros (-48.463589, -72.559946) and Los Coigues (-48.464742, -72.559453) for resupply. They are cheaper than the other supermarkets.

*2024/25 Michael and Kasia
There are more than a dozen stores in Cochrane. Rojita a block off the square is the most popular, and generally had good prices. We stayed at Ana Luz, 15.000 pp for a room. She also has one cabaña. It is possible to use the kitchen there for simple cooking. We also had a pair of boots repaired at the zapatero and had a very good experience. It was fast, high quality work and not expensive. He also repairs backpacks.

*Supermarket on the square in Cochrane. Several shops in Villa O'Higgins.

*Banco Estado on the square in Cochrane. The ATM was open on Christmas day.

*Cochrane: Campsite run by Patricia half a block from the Plaza. She does a good breakfast & also has Cabanas & a 4 bed dorm.

*Zapatoria Cochrane: Little Blue house North side of Dr Stefan's Street, above Rio Maitén street. -47.2541386, -72.5761942.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There are no resupply options & you should bring everything from Cochrane or O'Higgins. There are only two settlers living permanently on the central off road RR: A woman at Lago Alegre & Ruben on Lago Christie. All other off road puestos are only used occasionally.

=Transport to and from Route=

*There is a minibus from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins on Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8AM & one from O'Higgins to Cochrane on Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday @ 8AM. Operated by Buses Katalina, they have an office at the bus terminal in Cochrane. There is a minibus from Cochrane to Lago Brown on Monday & Thursday at 11AM. It comes back from Lago Brown on the same days & passes the junction with RR at about 2PM.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT36H - Ruta De Los Pioneros]]

=Images=
[[Archivo:IMG 7500.jpeg|left|Puerto Yungay - Rio Bravo Ferry Timetable February 2024]]

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2026-01-27T12:35:46Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-21 to 2026-Jan-25 / 5 days / Hiking / CCW / RR / Kole'''

An amazing adventure, but not without its challenges. The beach walking portions and sunset at Laguna Verde were memorable highlights. It was very immersive with not seeing anyone else during the trek.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5

Camps:

Night 1: Camp [105.1/549] — a great flat and relatively sheltered camp spot on Laguna Verde, I didn’t find it excessively buggy

Night 2: Camp [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) — another great spot right off a rocky beach on Lago O’Higgins, there are several flat and somewhat sheltered spots. Note that the waypoint is mislabeled, the camp is actually around km 49.0

Night 3: Camp [76.0/464] — no views, small spot, but greatly protected

Night 4: Camp [97.3/262] — plenty of flat and sheltered spaces in and around a forested coral

Challenges:

Some very overgrown (and rather thorny) trail in many parts. The trail also at times becomes difficult to follow amongst the rouge cow paths, keeping a diligent eye on GPS is required. Expect a constant personal escort of horse flies on windless days. Many fords and bogs made for wet feet the entire trek. I experienced relatively tame weather, but do expect this segment to be much more difficult in poor conditions.

Fords:

Ford {37H} [69.8/255] at Bahia Pescado was waist deep (~100cm) but easily passable with a minimal current.

Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) and Ford {37H} [97.0/255] (Rio San Martin) were closer to 80cm high but with strong currents required careful footing.

I found Ford [96.6/255] to be entirely impassable at the time of my trek. The path requires wading across a bay, but the tide was up to my pack. I had to turn back and take variant Q along the boggy shore.

* ''' 2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 Days / Hiking / 01, 08, 01 RR / Mor '''

General remarks:
Default state is wet feet as the mountain feels like one big swamp.
Trail finding is definitely the most challenging part of it.

Day 1: villa O'Higgins -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]
Walking on Opt 1, trail finding is largest challenge after passing the puesto.
Tried to go into Opt 2 and Opt 2A but as I was about 750m into Opt 2 a sudden hail shower turned me back as I didn't want to walk on the exposed ridge of Opt 2A in strong winds and showers.

Day 2: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Camp {37H-08} [4.6/337] (Bad Weather Option) -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]

*Option 8*: until where camps are marked (around 4.6 km) it is walkable on a decent trail which does require more BB/CC than Opt1 but is okay. Exploration part seemed undoable or highly demanding. No apparent trail that goes up the ridge. Abundance of rock fall and overall poor quality rock. Very very steep and exposed face. Wind is a big factor especially as the trail faces West and most winds comes from W-NW meaning they hit you directly. I turned around after a few hundred metres as I figured it didn't worth the risk of exploring it alone.

It forced me to trace back to Opt 1 and miss the part of Laguna Verde. In the end, due to lack of food, motivation and overall low physical feeling I cut the journey short leaving room for the next time.

Day 3: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Villa O'Higgins.
Easy stroll on decent trails back to VOH.

* ''' 2026-Jan-5 to 2026-Jan-14 / 10 Days / Hiking / RR, 01, A, RR, 03, RR / Massa and Jacicek '''

Day 1
We started walking at villa O’Higgin's and took option 1 to laguna negra. The path up to Laguna is nice and there is a lot of viewpoints. After the ford there is a gate and it can be opened from the right side. The puesto appeared to be empty, but there were a pair of water shoes before the ford. We camped at camp km 12.3.

Day 2
The path on the right side of the lake was in worse condition than the day before. And you need to pay attention to the GPS to stay on the path. Water was available at multiple places along the path. We stayed at camp km 18.7.

Day 3
We continued along the option 01. The initial horse trail is certainly nice. The cross-country section up the hill was rather challenging, but there was almost no bb. From the pass 23.9, the path is nice again. We camped at -48.53519, -72.69804.

Day 4
We found opt A to be traversable without issue, follow the edge of the dense forest, The path was even cleared at certain spots. The pass is really beautiful. Camped at [-48.55710, -72.64674].

Day 5
A lot of CC through wet marches. At the edge of the Lago (Ford 24.9) we would recommend to go through lake water further, as there is deep bog and large fallen tree just in path. Several dozen meters further is much nicer path. Camp km 105.1.

Day 6
Due to bad weather forecast for counter clock wise traverse we went in the direction of Bahia Aros. Ford at 96.6 was almost waist deep,, but narrow. We haven’t managed to find a path around through the shallow water (muddy after about half way). Settlers at puesto 90.5, they were friendly and told us that we can stay at refugio at Bahia Aros (where we camped). Ford at Rio Aros was rather strong and waist deep in the evening.

Day 7
Opt 3 starts with animal trail tracks. Some are better than others, and at places there are many new ones. The flatter valley section is boggy, but there are plenty places to pitch a tent, even wind protected. We camped [-48.71497, -72.67569], which wasn’t really flat however.

Day 8
Path 03 down to puesto La Pampa is nice and maintained with beautiful view of the Lago. The CC section 41.1 +1.7 was demanding for us. We stayed at camp 40.2, we found water there as described by Michael and Kasia.

Day 9
A lot of rain today, with many fords due to that rain. Camped at camp 114.5.

Day 10
Track back to villa O’higgins.

'''2026-Jan-04 to 2026-Jan-08 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Full 8 Circuit, anti-clockwise; RR, G / Emily'''

An incredible section - one of my favourites. I really enjoyed the full circuit and its diversity of trail and landscapes - would highly recommend! If you’re short on time, I’d suggest the western traverse, or an inverted ‘Q’ (i.e. a side trip to Cañadon los Patos rather than to Bahia San Martin) for the best views and trail.
Attractiveness - 5/5
Difficulty - 4/5

Camps
* Day 1 - Ford/Camp [18.3/637]. Plenty of space. Lots of bugs.
* Day 2 - -48.701918, -72.755100, (beach before Camp 62.2/262, where the CC ends). Space for 1 tent, flat but sloped, very hard ground. I wouldn’t recommend this spot and would suggest continuing to the marked camp. I only stopped here after arriving at the first beach and misreading the map. Note, this camp is around 48.5km - not 62.2.
* Day 3 - -48.834730, -72.625340 (hill above Camp 76.4/449). No water, lumpy and zero protection, but beautiful views.
* Day 4 - -48.677538, -72.589635 (approx. 101.3km). Very small spot. No water but a small stream shortly beforehand. I would only recommend in a pinch; Camps 97.5/320 and 105.1/549 looked a lot more comfortable. There were a couple of spots before in the forest that would’ve been more suitable if you’re looking to camp between the two marked spots.

The write up in the manual gives a great overview of the section. I found conditions to be more/less the same, with the biggest challenges being wayfinding and overgrown trail. Some points of note
* I started from Villa O’Higgins at midday on a Sunday; no luck with hitches. On return (Thursday, 5pm), there were plenty of cars near the Fin de la Carretera sign at Bahia Bahamondes, and I got a hitch shortly thereafter.
* After the bridge at 8.3/282 there’s a trail that cuts straight up to the RR around -48.519166, -72.597222, avoiding the unnecessary descent.
* Watch for the RR turnoff at the intersection for Option 1 - very easy to miss and continue on to the option.
* The RR requires some BB where it diverges from Variant G. G is instead relatively clear and easy to follow.
* There are lots of misleading animal trails, though with a bit of creative CC you can usually find your way back to the RR. The exception to this was after Water 49.9/252; watch for the trail going up. I continued along a well-defined animal trail, and when trying to cut across hit some steep scrambles and impenetrable BB. Best to backtrack if you find yourself in a similar situation.
* Trail on the eastern traverse was at times overgrown, requiring some CC/BB in thorny bush. For the most part, the path remained visible. These overgrown sections became very wet after light rain, making for some pretty miserable and cold walking.
* After a week of sun, I had no issues with fords. I crossed Rio Aro [90.1/263] around 3.30pm, starting below the waypoint and walking on a diagonal up. This kept me in shallows to my knee, with the exception of the last 2m to my mid-upper thigh (165cm). I crossed Rio San Martin [97.0/255] at the waypoint; mid-upper thigh. Both fords had strong currents, but weren’t particularly difficult.

<big>'''2025-12-20 to 2025-12-22/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ RR, Option 2, Option 2A, Option 1/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Overall
Wild and scenic mountain and forest/ lake environments, with challenging wind, cold and rain, and complex terrain to navigate.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 4/5

Accommodation in Villa O’Higgins
I camped at Camping Paraíso for CLP 8,000 per night
Friendly host, hot showers, kitchen/ dining room, and 50m to a cool microbrewery/ restaurant with tasty hamburgers and fries :-)

Day 1
Somewhat challenging finding a route on Option 2, uphill to Cerro Altavista, alternating between bush bashing seemingly unavoidable tree groves and rocky ridges. Made much slower progress than anticipated to get to turn-off to Cerro Altavista, and the wind was rising so I ‘cut the corner’ and continued on (EXP/I) Option 2A. Generally better progress was made on the northern side of the ridge. However it was slow progress with lots of shale, loose rock and rock hopping. The route was not straightforward with many climbs and descents on rock bands which extend down from the ridge. Route finding would be very difficult in poor visibility. I recommend Option 2A only in good visibility. I camped here: -48.52680, -72.69173, beside a small alpine lake.

Day 2
I intended to hike Option 1 to get to Options 8 and 8C, but made slow progress due to glitches with my primary navigation device (Garmin Enduro 3), which made it unusable. I tried to use the Gaia app as the primary but this slowed me down (not hands free for poles) with constant checking required in complex terrain, and would have required lots of phone charging in the days ahead. Due to expected slow progress (especially EXP/I Option 8C) and uncertain ability to solar charge my power banks (unreliable direct sunlight), I decided it was prudent to abort and return to Villa O’Higgins to fix the Garmin fault. Camped at Laguna Negra Camp [18.7, 298] - nice sheltered spot set back from the lake.

Day 3
Returned to Villa O’Higgins on Option 1, via Laguna Negra. Slow going on the track beside the lake, with lots of fallen branches and trees, and indistinct or non-existent trail, particularly around here: -48.49909, -72.68848. However lovely views over the lake in both directions, and after the lake approaching Villa O’Higgins.

Postscript
The GPS issue seems to have been caused by using the Auto Select function which, according to the manual, uses “ SatIQ™ technology to dynamically select the best multi-band GNSS
system based on your environment. The Auto Select setting offers the best positioning accuracy while still
prioritizing battery life”. However I found that frequently the device was unable to fix my position at all, meaning also that ancillary functions like distance, elevation and speed did not work either.

Afterwards I consulted Jan (he has the latest Garmin Fenix), who said that he uses the ‘GPS only’ mode to conserve battery power.

This is what Chat GPT says about the benefit of using “GPS Only” mode on your Garmin Enduro 3:

“Main Benefit — Better Battery Life
• GPS Only mode limits the watch to just the U.S. GPS satellite constellation instead of using multiple GNSS systems (like GPS + GLONASS/Galileo).
• Because it’s only tracking one system instead of many, it consumes substantially less power. That means longer battery life during activities like long hikes, ultramarathons, multi-day backpacking trips, etc.

For example, with GPS-only tracking the Enduro 3 can last significantly longer on a single charge compared to modes using all systems:
• GPS Only: ~120 hours (up to ~320 hours with good solar)
• All Systems: ~80 hours (up to ~144 hours with solar)
• All Systems + Multi-Band: ~60 hours (up to ~90 hours with solar)

So if you’re more concerned about maximizing time between charges and don’t need the absolute best positional precision, GPS Only is typically the most efficient setting.

** Trade-Off — Potentially Less Precision in Hard Environments

By using just GPS satellites, you might get slightly slower fix times or somewhat less precise positioning in challenging environments (like dense forest, deep canyons, or urban canyons) compared with multi-GNSS or multi-band settings. That’s because those broader settings can pull signals from more satellites to improve accuracy and lock-on speed.

When to Use GPS Only
- Long endurance activities where battery life is more important than pinpoint accuracy
- Backcountry trips, multi-day hikes, thru-hikes
- Activities in open areas where GPS signal is strong and accuracy differences are minimal

When Not Ideal
- In very dense tree cover or canyons if you need the tightest track logging
- For activities with precise navigation or mapping requirements.

In short: GPS Only mode extends battery life by simplifying the satellite system used, which is great for long adventures — at the cost of some positional precision in tough signal areas.”

<big>'''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-30 / 6 days / hiking /RR east trav Sobo, Opt 4(EXP/I), Opt 3, Opt 3B, RR west trav Nobo / Ohad & Bailey'''</big>

We found this section wild, beautiful and hard. I will write the general information, add our opinions, and at the end describe Option 4 which is EXP and I. I apologise for the long one.

Fees:
Non

Camp:
Camp 37h [30.5/543] - nice protected corral in the forest. Río San Martin close by for water.

Camp 37h [78.5/291] - semi sheltered, little mound is protecting from wind coming from the lake. River to the northeast was silty, found a small clear stream about 100m to the south west.

Camped at S 48.758705 W 072.633320. Protected Camp with stream near by, in an unmaintained forest, maybe not the best in high winds. Falling tree danger?

Camp 37h [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe), beatiful beach, we cowboyed on the beach there. Camp looks a bit lumpy, no water other than the lake.

Camp 37h [24.5/552] nice camp, water nearby, lots of mosquitos.

Fords:
Many fords, only three of note.
Ford 37h [90.1/263] (Rio Aro). It was quite strong. We crossed it closer to shore than shown in the files.
The fords on varient M were unpassable, we forded a bit upstream (S 48.661758 W 072.604474) and with a bit of BB and clambering got back to route.
Ford 37h [79.5/520] (Cascada) is an easy ford but very impressive with the waterfall and with higher stakes.

Water:
No problem.

Trail Conditions/Challenges:
The trail on the east traverse is much less clear and much steeper than the west with a lot of TL sections that feel like CC or light BB. Very easy to veer off route.

The route was often wet, many fords and bogs.

We would not recc Varient M. Unnecessary fords and risky fords, BB and clambering. Just go to RR, its not a time saver.

We encountered no one at Bahia Pescado

Opinions:
we found the east traverse very demanding with constant routefinding, light BB and very steep rollar coaster trail. The east traverse offers amazing views over Lago Ohiggins, with the lake snaking through the mountains. The beach walks are nice and the waterfall ford is very memorable. But over all the trail experience hindered our enjoyment of the views.

We were very happy with our decision to head inland on Option 4 and later Option 3, we feel like the views are nicer from higher up and we enjoyed the alpine experience and the glacial valley of 3.

The west traverse is nicer, the view is a bit less impressive then the east but conditions are much more pleasant.

Option 4:
We loosley followed the route on the files. I will write up a loose description of the route and attach an email address if you want our gpx.

From Pass 37h[68.1/492] ascend uphill north roughly following the ridgeline. The terrain is bluffy and low bush. No water here except tarns.
After passing west of the high point of the ridge (S 48.813329 W 072.704473) continue ascending north towards the gulley, you enter a forest, some of it easily traversable some less, after the gulley you continue north in a bog and then a bit of bb in forest. There may be campsite options in this part as it is flatter. after, you enter high alpine CC for almost the reminder of the route. Continue north towards the gulley of the pass. The Nav and CC is easy. Big snow patches in the pass. The rest is scree.
Descending was quick with the snow. Ascending SoBo would probably be exhausting with all the snow. The gully gets steep and you walk west on the south bank. We found various cow trails and camped before connecting to Opt3. Forded 100m upstream of ford waypoint and connected to Opt3.

Option 4 offered beautiful views over the lake, the bluffs were nice and once youre in alpine terrain the view opens up. And fitz roy accompanies the journey from afar. We very much enjoyed this Option and would reccomend it.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 5 to Apr 14 / 9 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 1, 1B, RR, Var A, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES:
Though it's almost impossible to choose a favorite GPT section, this may be ours. It felt as big and wild as some of the northern sections, and the demanding navigation made it really adventurous. We would definitely recommend budgeting more time for this section to really enjoy it, and to make the route-finding less frustrating. (I spent at least three days carrying the GPS in one hand all day because I had to check it so often there was no point in putting it back on the strap.) We also really enjoyed Opt 1 to Lago Negro. As a bonus, if you choose to do Opt 1 and then take the CC/BB Opt 1B to avoid backtracking, the rest of the route will seem easy by comparison!

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.48213, -72.66873 (Camp Opt 1 [8.69], in the forest, some wind protection, water access is about 50 m away at the lake, or about 100 m further along there was a clear stream running across the trail)

Night 02: -48.52777, -72.72149 (Lake, Camp Opt 1 [16.2] (wind protected, easy water access)

Night 03: -48.53809, -72.67203 (flat, okay wind protection, nice views of lake and mountains, water from stream about 50 m away)

Night 04: -48.59170, -72.65789 (flat, wind protected, no view, water access is about 300 m away)

Night 05: Camp without water 40.3 (decent wind protection, had a kind of half-corral style wind barrier; there actually was water, at (-48.64095, -72.71988) about 70 m north of the campsite, it's just a little tricky to get to)

Night 06: Camp 49.2 Arollo Derrumbe (most of the site is a bit on a slope, but we did find a pretty flat spot next to the large willow tree just a bit up from the fire ring, good water access on the pebble beach, really nice place to see the sunset)

Night 07: Puesto 53.7 La Pampa (there was a flat area inside the corral at the western side, almost directly opposite the cottonwood trees, wind protection was good, water was from a shallow stream up the hill about 100 m, access was a little tricky)

Night 08: Camp 66.6 Vista Fitz Roy (we don't recommend this as a campsite. Water access is not good, there is no wind protection, if it's early in the season or has been raining there will likely be no place to put the tent that isn’t swampy. We found one dry seasonal lake bed a little below the fire ring that worked, but we imagine that it is often swampy or under water; we would recommend to make this a lunch or coffee break spot and camp a little further along the trail, maybe near the river around Camp 63.5 or 63.6)

Night 09: Stayed at Misael’s

WATER: there is a lot of water

Day 01 - Apr 5th

We booked the boat with Ruedas the day before, arranging for them to pick us up in Bahía Pescado on the 14th (their last sailing of the season). In the morning, we dropped off two boxes of resupply since we were planning to do 37, 38, and 39 together. We started hiking a little after 10:00. The gravel road out is kind of annoying. There was a surprising amount of traffic on it. At X 3.6 there were a couple of picnic tables and a trailhead to the Sendero Altavista trail, which is the beginning of Opt 1 (Lago Negro). We had originally planned to just do the western traverse along RR, but when we saw the sign we checked the wiki, and after reading Volker’s trip report we decided to go with Opt 1. The trail was generally in good shape and easy, though there were a number of muddy spots. The views were amazing and we were lucky to have sun and no wind, so it was very pleasant. Ford Opt 1 [11.5] was easy, mid calf and almost no current. On the other side of the river was a private property sign and a wire fence. The gate (also wire) was padlocked shut, so we lifted the bags over it and then climbed between the wires on a side section to the right in order to not damage the gate. We passed by the buildings, it looked like it was abandoned. We continued onto the lake and camped around the Camp 8.69 waypoint. We found a flattish spot in the woods just above the trail. There was a clear stream running across the trail about 100 m on that was a good water source, but the lake is easily accessible as well.

Day 02 - Apr 6th

We continued around Lago Negro. For the first km or so the trail was easy and in fairly good shape. But after that it oscillated between good to non-existant, open to bush bash. It was definitely slow going. Much of the trail is in the forest, and it is Valdivian rainforest. It is very dark inside and feels like a jungle. Then the trail climbed up onto more exposed areas. There were lots and lots of muddy and marshy sections. It was slow going to work around them and keep our feet dry, but we managed. Somewhere around km 11 the trail drops down to the lake. We put on water shoes and just walked along the bank for about 500 m to avoid all the bush bashing. If the lake level is low enough and the weather is good, we recommend it, it goes much faster. The trail then went up again. Just before Water 12.6 we stopped for lunch on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It was a really great view and a nice break spot. The trail went up and down a few more times. We were tempted towards the end to walk in the water again but decided against it. Looking down from above it seemed like the right call. There were a number of dead trees in the lake that would have been hard to maneuver around. We camped at the south end of the lake . There was a fire ring and the site was set back in the trees a bit so there was some wind protection. The beach was really nice on that end of the lake, and we wished we had time to take a zero day here and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Day 03 - Apr 7th

We took Option 1B up to reconnect with RR to avoid backtracking. It was very, very slow going. At first there seemed to be a bit of a trail, but that ended quite quickly. Nearly the entire route up is a CC/BB the whole way, and much of it was quite steep. It took us almost exactly 8 hours including a couple of short rests to make the 1.3 km up. It never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of work. On the bright side, that put all the route finding for the rest of the section in perspective. There were some amazing views at the top. We camped in the forest along the side of the larger lake that starts at around km 26.5 of Opt 1. We found a flat spot about half way between the beginning and the end of the lake that had a fire ring. There was a clear stream a little before it that was a good water source.

Day 04 - Apr 8th

We continued back toward RR. The fall colors and the light at that time of year were amazing. It was full sun and no wind that day. Somewhere around km 28.9 of Opt 1 we decided to CC southeast to skip a lobe of the trail. It worked out for us, however the area is a marsh and earlier in the season or after rain it might not be passable. At km 29.9 of Opt 1 there was an open field that would have been good for camping and a good stream for water. From the clearing we went CC to RR, similar to Var A, but further south. By staying to the right of the river and going uphill we managed fairly easily. The trail up to the pass was very steep and in sections had scree over hard packed earth, so we did a lot of CC on the way up as well. About half way up we stopped to rest for a couple of minutes. There were a couple of condors flying around. Kasia was about 7 meters away from me. One of the condors dipped to fly by her, maybe just 2 or 3 meters away! It was an absolutely enormous bird. At the top of the pass there is a plateau. There were a couple of small lakes and some streams. We stopped by one of the lakes for lunch. With sun and no wind it was very pleasant. The way down the other side was fairly easy to follow. The valley on the other side looked like it was out of a fairytale, and the fall colors really looked amazing. We wandered around for a while just to explore. About 50 m away from Ford 18.4 there was a large tree that had fallen across the river and made a good bridge. Camping on both sides of the river looked nice, there were flat grassy areas. I would have chosen to camp before crossing just because it was easier water access, but there was a fire ring on the far side. Ford 19.8 was dry when we passed. Ford 20.6 was just above the ankle. We had trouble finding camping around Ford 20.6 as much of the area is rocky, and a lot of the forest had shrubs instead of grass. We found a spot fairly far from the river, but it was flat and had good wind protection, which was good because the wind started over night and continued into the morning.

Day 05 - Apr 9th

We got up early to make as much distance as possible. It was windy and cold. Ford 21.6 was easy, it had a fair amount of current, but was below half calf. Camp 24.6 looked nice. It was inside an open forest and was a place that arrieros camp with a windwall and fire ring. At the Ford mark shortly after, the water was very shallow, but wide. I was able to drop a long branch across it to create a makeshift bridge. The first part of the way around the lake was through forest, but the lake level was fairly low, so by about a third of the way around we could walk on the beach the rest of the way. Camp 29.3 looked okay. It was in a clearing set back from the lake a bit. There was still a fair amount of wind coming through on the day we passed, though I imagine the direction of the wind makes a big difference. Ford, X 30.2 was knee deep but with very little current. Ford 31.7 was half calf with a moderate current. We were not really sure where Camp 37.0 was. It was not near water and there didn’t seem to be any flat place to camp. We don't recommend planning this one for camping if you can avoid it. The rest of the way to the pass was a bit challenging. It was incredibly windy on that side. There isn't really a trail for much of it and it goes back and forth across the river several times. About 100 m before Ford 38.8 was actually the first of several fords. After the fords there were some deep marshy areas. We crossed the pass and camped at Camp 40.3. It was a good spot. There was very little wind there. The wind wall at the site was set up almost like a corral. There's only room for one tent, and the X-Mid 2 just barely fit, but it did fit. We discovered that there is actually a water source there, about 70 m due north of the camp site. The way to it is kind of marshy/muddy, but I was able to access it without getting my feet wet. Earlier in the season that might not be possible.

Day 06 - Apr 10th

We started down early. It was fully overcast but an almost windless day. The muted grey of the clouds combined with the turquoise of the water and the oranges and reds of the trees made for spectacular scenery throughout the day. Despite the descent being listed as CC, a good bit of it actually followed a trail. About 500 m before the trailhead, we decided to do a complete CC heading south-southeast instead of southwest. We headed toward a grassy patch then cut more south, went down a steep animal path and across a marshy field before finally reconnecting with RR. I’m not sure it saved any time or distance, but it was fun to explore. Ford 43.6 was dry foot crossable, we stopped there for lunch. Ford 45.6 appeared a little tricky, but since we had read the reports from Tomas, Roman and Jonas, we were aware of the turn and it was no problem at all. The descent to Camp 39.2 was CC/BB. Towards the end it was possible to cut across the boulder field early and go directly to the camp site rather than to the lake and coming around along the beach. Arrollo Derrumbe was nice and had easy access to a pebble beach. We had an absolutely stunning sunset that night. We camped up next to a willow tree a little ways away from the fire ring because the ground was more level there.

Day 07 - Apr 11th

We were hoping to get to Camp Vista Fitz Roy, but it had rained in the night and even with our rain gear we got soaked just going through the brush. As we got to La Pampa it started to rain. We found a place up in the forest to take shelter to wait it out for a bit. When the rain stopped it was already late in the afternoon and we knew we were unlikely to make it. Reading through notes and looking at topo and satellite imagery we thought it would be fairly unlikely to find another camp at least until km 63.4, so we decided to just camp early. We found a flat and fairly wind protected spot inside the corral on the western side. It had stopped raining and some sun had come out so we strung up a line and hung some of our wet clothes to try to get them dry. For water we went back up the hill to the east about 100 m. Outside the fence there was a shallow stream flowing through a wetland area. It was a little tricky to access.

Day 08 - Apr 12th

We hiked over the pass and then down. There was no issue passing by Bahia Once Hermanos on the RR. It looked like Var E would take you directly to the house, but the RR stays outside the fenced areas of the property. We did not see anyone when we passed. We took Var G. The path wasn’t always clear, but this part of the peninsula was mostly low shrubs so it was easy to find a way. Ford 63.5 was half-calf, mild current. Both the camp before and the camp after the ford looked okay. The one after was cleaner. Water 65.9 was actually a ford similar to Ford 45.6. There was a lot of brush on both sides that encroached on the passage and made it a little tricky. This was also the last place to get running water if staying at Camp 66.6. We were actually fairly disappointed with this campsite (notes above in the Camps section). We would recommend camping elsewhere and just stopping for lunch or a break at this spot.

Day 09 - Apr 13th

It was a cold and windy day. It seemed that the wind had knocked most of the water off the bushes as we did not get nearly as wet as a few days prior. The route was often tricky to find. We got lost towards the top and ended up CCing a steep hill to get to the pass. There was a short little plateau and then it began to drop down the other side. It was even windier on the far side. Miseal was a very hospitable host. We talked for quite awhile. For dinner he made roasted lamb ribs, salad with greens from his garden, and a kind of deep fried yeasted bread cooked in lamb fat, which was really delicious. He explained that the bread was very similar to sopaipilla, with the main difference being that what he made is fried in animal fat and sopaipilla is fried in oil. We preferred his version to the more common sopaipilla. We slept on the floor in a side room that seemed to function as both a storage room and a guest room.

Day 10 - Air 14th

The boat arrived on time. We said goodbye to Misael and got on the boat. The ride was maybe 15 minutes. At the dock on the other side we took the boxes and walked to Ricardo and Maria's place.

*'''2025-MAR-20 to 2025-MAR-21 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We skipped the Peninsula Florida. The most crucial part of this section is the boat transfer from Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamóndez) to the opposite shore of Lago O'Higgins (Candelario Mancilla).

BOAT CROSSING:

There are two companies in Villa O'Higgins that transport tourists across the lake – Amigo Patagon (office here: -48.4615871, -72.5605656) and Las Ruedas (office here: -48.4640142, -72.5582920). We initially communicated with Amigo Patagon, but due to poor communication and unprofessionalism, we ended up purchasing tickets from Las Ruedas (55,000 CLP if bought online, 60,000 CLP at the office).

When purchasing a ticket, you are required to fill out a form, after which you will receive a document called "Salvo Conducto" via email. You will need this document at the border control when exiting Chile.

!!! Although the boat usually runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), weather conditions can play a significant role. We arrived in Villa O'Higgins on Friday (March 14), missed the Saturday boat due to waiting for a package, and the next crossing was postponed until the following Friday due to strong winds.

We recommend starting the hike as soon as possible, as a large number of people travel by boat, and border control can take several hours, if you're on the end of the queue.

A well-maintained road, mostly through forest, leads to the Argentine border. After the first climb, the majestic Fitz Roy appears between the trees for the first time. Once in Argentina, the trail becomes narrower, with many boggy sections and small stream crossings.

Challenges: Patience

Bivouacking: Camping is only allowed in designated areas. The first official campsite is near the Argentine border control at Laguna del Desierto (-48.9996549, -72.8379285).

Water: There is plenty of water after Candelario Mancilla, with numerous small streams crossing the route.

Resupply: There are several shops in Villa O'Higgins. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.
There is no resupply on the end of this section.

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

*'''2025-01-20 to 2025-01-22 / 3 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / RR, RP (Laguna Verde), RR / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left Isla Central with La Soberania (boat ~10 days for inhabitants of the lake). After a tour of the inhabitants, La Florida left us at Bahia Pescado around mid-day. We followed the RR from km 69 to ~km 60.

Day 2:
Continued the RR until km~33.

Day 3:
Continued the RR for a couple of km until the Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde was completely flat so we packrafted it (not engaged as you can follow the shore all the time): great moment ! Continued the RR (multiple easy fords - ankle/below knee height - after Laguna Verde) until Bahia Bahamondes where we hitchhicked to Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2026-01-27T12:35:17Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-21 to 2026-Jan-25 / 5 days / Hiking / CCW / RR / Kole'''

An amazing adventure, but not without its challenges. The beach walking portions and sunset at Laguna Verde were memorable highlights. It was very immersive with not seeing anyone else during the trek.

Attractiveness: 5/5

Difficulty: 5/5

Camps:

Night 1: Camp [105.1/549] — a great flat and relatively sheltered camp spot on Laguna Verde, I didn’t find it excessively buggy

Night 2: Camp [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) — another great spot right off a rocky beach on Lago O’Higgins, there are several flat and somewhat sheltered spots. Note that the waypoint is mislabeled, the camp is actually around km 49.0

Night 3: Camp [76.0/464] — no views, small spot, but greatly protected

Night 4: Camp [97.3/262] — plenty of flat and sheltered spaces in and around a forested coral

Challenges:

Some very overgrown (and rather thorny) trail in many parts. The trail also at times becomes difficult to follow amongst the rouge cow paths, keeping a diligent eye on GPS is required. Expect a constant personal escort of horse flies on windless days. Many fords and bogs made for wet feet the entire trek. I experienced relatively tame weather, but do expect this segment to be much more difficult in poor conditions.

Fords:

Ford {37H} [69.8/255] at Bahia Pescado was waist deep (~100cm) but easily passable with a minimal current.

Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) and Ford {37H} [97.0/255] (Rio San Martin) were closer to 80cm high but with strong currents required careful footing.

I found Ford [96.6/255] to be entirely impassable at the time of my trek. The path requires wading across a bay, but the tide was up to my pack. I had to turn back and take variant Q along the boggy shore.

* ''' 2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 Days / Hiking / 01, 08, 01 RR / Mor '''

General remarks:
Default state is wet feet as the mountain feels like one big swamp.
Trail finding is definitely the most challenging part of it.

Day 1: villa O'Higgins -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]
Walking on Opt 1, trail finding is largest challenge after passing the puesto.
Tried to go into Opt 2 and Opt 2A but as I was about 750m into Opt 2 a sudden hail shower turned me back as I didn't want to walk on the exposed ridge of Opt 2A in strong winds and showers.

Day 2: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Camp {37H-08} [4.6/337] (Bad Weather Option) -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]

*Option 8*: until where camps are marked (around 4.6 km) it is walkable on a decent trail which does require more BB/CC than Opt1 but is okay. Exploration part seemed undoable or highly demanding. No apparent trail that goes up the ridge. Abundance of rock fall and overall poor quality rock. Very very steep and exposed face. Wind is a big factor especially as the trail faces West and most winds comes from W-NW meaning they hit you directly. I turned around after a few hundred metres as I figured it didn't worth the risk of exploring it alone.

It forced me to trace back to Opt 1 and miss the part of Laguna Verde. In the end, due to lack of food, motivation and overall low physical feeling I cut the journey short leaving room for the next time.

Day 3: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Villa O'Higgins.
Easy stroll on decent trails back to VOH.

* ''' 2026-Jan-5 to 2026-Jan-14 / 10 Days / Hiking / RR, 01, A, RR, 03, RR / Massa and Jacicek '''

Day 1
We started walking at villa O’Higgin's and took option 1 to laguna negra. The path up to Laguna is nice and there is a lot of viewpoints. After the ford there is a gate and it can be opened from the right side. The puesto appeared to be empty, but there were a pair of water shoes before the ford. We camped at camp km 12.3.

Day 2
The path on the right side of the lake was in worse condition than the day before. And you need to pay attention to the GPS to stay on the path. Water was available at multiple places along the path. We stayed at camp km 18.7.

Day 3
We continued along the option 01. The initial horse trail is certainly nice. The cross-country section up the hill was rather challenging, but there was almost no bb. From the pass 23.9, the path is nice again. We camped at -48.53519, -72.69804.

Day 4
We found opt A to be traversable without issue, follow the edge of the dense forest, The path was even cleared at certain spots. The pass is really beautiful. Camped at [-48.55710, -72.64674].

Day 5
A lot of CC through wet marches. At the edge of the Lago (Ford 24.9) we would recommend to go through lake water further, as there is deep bog and large fallen tree just in path. Several dozen meters further is much nicer path. Camp km 105.1.

Day 6
Due to bad weather forecast for counter clock wise traverse we went in the direction of Bahia Aros. Ford at 96.6 was almost waist deep,, but narrow. We haven’t managed to find a path around through the shallow water (muddy after about half way). Settlers at puesto 90.5, they were friendly and told us that we can stay at refugio at Bahia Aros (where we camped). Ford at Rio Aros was rather strong and waist deep in the evening.

Day 7
Opt 3 starts with animal trail tracks. Some are better than others, and at places there are many new ones. The flatter valley section is boggy, but there are plenty places to pitch a tent, even wind protected. We camped [-48.71497, -72.67569], which wasn’t really flat however.

Day 8
Path 03 down to puesto La Pampa is nice and maintained with beautiful view of the Lago. The CC section 41.1 +1.7 was demanding for us. We stayed at camp 40.2, we found water there as described by Michael and Kasia.

Day 9
A lot of rain today, with many fords due to that rain. Camped at camp 114.5.

Day 10
Track back to villa O’higgins.

'''2026-Jan-04 to 2026-Jan-08 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Full 8 Circuit, anti-clockwise; RR, G / Emily'''

An incredible section - one of my favourites. I really enjoyed the full circuit and its diversity of trail and landscapes - would highly recommend! If you’re short on time, I’d suggest the western traverse, or an inverted ‘Q’ (i.e. a side trip to Cañadon los Patos rather than to Bahia San Martin) for the best views and trail.
Attractiveness - 5/5
Difficulty - 4/5

Camps
* Day 1 - Ford/Camp [18.3/637]. Plenty of space. Lots of bugs.
* Day 2 - -48.701918, -72.755100, (beach before Camp 62.2/262, where the CC ends). Space for 1 tent, flat but sloped, very hard ground. I wouldn’t recommend this spot and would suggest continuing to the marked camp. I only stopped here after arriving at the first beach and misreading the map. Note, this camp is around 48.5km - not 62.2.
* Day 3 - -48.834730, -72.625340 (hill above Camp 76.4/449). No water, lumpy and zero protection, but beautiful views.
* Day 4 - -48.677538, -72.589635 (approx. 101.3km). Very small spot. No water but a small stream shortly beforehand. I would only recommend in a pinch; Camps 97.5/320 and 105.1/549 looked a lot more comfortable. There were a couple of spots before in the forest that would’ve been more suitable if you’re looking to camp between the two marked spots.

The write up in the manual gives a great overview of the section. I found conditions to be more/less the same, with the biggest challenges being wayfinding and overgrown trail. Some points of note
* I started from Villa O’Higgins at midday on a Sunday; no luck with hitches. On return (Thursday, 5pm), there were plenty of cars near the Fin de la Carretera sign at Bahia Bahamondes, and I got a hitch shortly thereafter.
* After the bridge at 8.3/282 there’s a trail that cuts straight up to the RR around -48.519166, -72.597222, avoiding the unnecessary descent.
* Watch for the RR turnoff at the intersection for Option 1 - very easy to miss and continue on to the option.
* The RR requires some BB where it diverges from Variant G. G is instead relatively clear and easy to follow.
* There are lots of misleading animal trails, though with a bit of creative CC you can usually find your way back to the RR. The exception to this was after Water 49.9/252; watch for the trail going up. I continued along a well-defined animal trail, and when trying to cut across hit some steep scrambles and impenetrable BB. Best to backtrack if you find yourself in a similar situation.
* Trail on the eastern traverse was at times overgrown, requiring some CC/BB in thorny bush. For the most part, the path remained visible. These overgrown sections became very wet after light rain, making for some pretty miserable and cold walking.
* After a week of sun, I had no issues with fords. I crossed Rio Aro [90.1/263] around 3.30pm, starting below the waypoint and walking on a diagonal up. This kept me in shallows to my knee, with the exception of the last 2m to my mid-upper thigh (165cm). I crossed Rio San Martin [97.0/255] at the waypoint; mid-upper thigh. Both fords had strong currents, but weren’t particularly difficult.

<big>'''2025-12-20 to 2025-12-22/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ RR, Option 2, Option 2A, Option 1/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Overall
Wild and scenic mountain and forest/ lake environments, with challenging wind, cold and rain, and complex terrain to navigate.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 4/5

Accommodation in Villa O’Higgins
I camped at Camping Paraíso for CLP 8,000 per night
Friendly host, hot showers, kitchen/ dining room, and 50m to a cool microbrewery/ restaurant with tasty hamburgers and fries :-)

Day 1
Somewhat challenging finding a route on Option 2, uphill to Cerro Altavista, alternating between bush bashing seemingly unavoidable tree groves and rocky ridges. Made much slower progress than anticipated to get to turn-off to Cerro Altavista, and the wind was rising so I ‘cut the corner’ and continued on (EXP/I) Option 2A. Generally better progress was made on the northern side of the ridge. However it was slow progress with lots of shale, loose rock and rock hopping. The route was not straightforward with many climbs and descents on rock bands which extend down from the ridge. Route finding would be very difficult in poor visibility. I recommend Option 2A only in good visibility. I camped here: -48.52680, -72.69173, beside a small alpine lake.

Day 2
I intended to hike Option 1 to get to Options 8 and 8C, but made slow progress due to glitches with my primary navigation device (Garmin Enduro 3), which made it unusable. I tried to use the Gaia app as the primary but this slowed me down (not hands free for poles) with constant checking required in complex terrain, and would have required lots of phone charging in the days ahead. Due to expected slow progress (especially EXP/I Option 8C) and uncertain ability to solar charge my power banks (unreliable direct sunlight), I decided it was prudent to abort and return to Villa O’Higgins to fix the Garmin fault. Camped at Laguna Negra Camp [18.7, 298] - nice sheltered spot set back from the lake.

Day 3
Returned to Villa O’Higgins on Option 1, via Laguna Negra. Slow going on the track beside the lake, with lots of fallen branches and trees, and indistinct or non-existent trail, particularly around here: -48.49909, -72.68848. However lovely views over the lake in both directions, and after the lake approaching Villa O’Higgins.

Postscript
The GPS issue seems to have been caused by using the Auto Select function which, according to the manual, uses “ SatIQ™ technology to dynamically select the best multi-band GNSS
system based on your environment. The Auto Select setting offers the best positioning accuracy while still
prioritizing battery life”. However I found that frequently the device was unable to fix my position at all, meaning also that ancillary functions like distance, elevation and speed did not work either.

Afterwards I consulted Jan (he has the latest Garmin Fenix), who said that he uses the ‘GPS only’ mode to conserve battery power.

This is what Chat GPT says about the benefit of using “GPS Only” mode on your Garmin Enduro 3:

“Main Benefit — Better Battery Life
• GPS Only mode limits the watch to just the U.S. GPS satellite constellation instead of using multiple GNSS systems (like GPS + GLONASS/Galileo).
• Because it’s only tracking one system instead of many, it consumes substantially less power. That means longer battery life during activities like long hikes, ultramarathons, multi-day backpacking trips, etc.

For example, with GPS-only tracking the Enduro 3 can last significantly longer on a single charge compared to modes using all systems:
• GPS Only: ~120 hours (up to ~320 hours with good solar)
• All Systems: ~80 hours (up to ~144 hours with solar)
• All Systems + Multi-Band: ~60 hours (up to ~90 hours with solar)

So if you’re more concerned about maximizing time between charges and don’t need the absolute best positional precision, GPS Only is typically the most efficient setting.

** Trade-Off — Potentially Less Precision in Hard Environments

By using just GPS satellites, you might get slightly slower fix times or somewhat less precise positioning in challenging environments (like dense forest, deep canyons, or urban canyons) compared with multi-GNSS or multi-band settings. That’s because those broader settings can pull signals from more satellites to improve accuracy and lock-on speed.

When to Use GPS Only
- Long endurance activities where battery life is more important than pinpoint accuracy
- Backcountry trips, multi-day hikes, thru-hikes
- Activities in open areas where GPS signal is strong and accuracy differences are minimal

When Not Ideal
- In very dense tree cover or canyons if you need the tightest track logging
- For activities with precise navigation or mapping requirements.

In short: GPS Only mode extends battery life by simplifying the satellite system used, which is great for long adventures — at the cost of some positional precision in tough signal areas.”

<big>'''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-30 / 6 days / hiking /RR east trav Sobo, Opt 4(EXP/I), Opt 3, Opt 3B, RR west trav Nobo / Ohad & Bailey'''</big>

We found this section wild, beautiful and hard. I will write the general information, add our opinions, and at the end describe Option 4 which is EXP and I. I apologise for the long one.

Fees:
Non

Camp:
Camp 37h [30.5/543] - nice protected corral in the forest. Río San Martin close by for water.

Camp 37h [78.5/291] - semi sheltered, little mound is protecting from wind coming from the lake. River to the northeast was silty, found a small clear stream about 100m to the south west.

Camped at S 48.758705 W 072.633320. Protected Camp with stream near by, in an unmaintained forest, maybe not the best in high winds. Falling tree danger?

Camp 37h [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe), beatiful beach, we cowboyed on the beach there. Camp looks a bit lumpy, no water other than the lake.

Camp 37h [24.5/552] nice camp, water nearby, lots of mosquitos.

Fords:
Many fords, only three of note.
Ford 37h [90.1/263] (Rio Aro). It was quite strong. We crossed it closer to shore than shown in the files.
The fords on varient M were unpassable, we forded a bit upstream (S 48.661758 W 072.604474) and with a bit of BB and clambering got back to route.
Ford 37h [79.5/520] (Cascada) is an easy ford but very impressive with the waterfall and with higher stakes.

Water:
No problem.

Trail Conditions/Challenges:
The trail on the east traverse is much less clear and much steeper than the west with a lot of TL sections that feel like CC or light BB. Very easy to veer off route.

The route was often wet, many fords and bogs.

We would not recc Varient M. Unnecessary fords and risky fords, BB and clambering. Just go to RR, its not a time saver.

We encountered no one at Bahia Pescado

Opinions:
we found the east traverse very demanding with constant routefinding, light BB and very steep rollar coaster trail. The east traverse offers amazing views over Lago Ohiggins, with the lake snaking through the mountains. The beach walks are nice and the waterfall ford is very memorable. But over all the trail experience hindered our enjoyment of the views.

We were very happy with our decision to head inland on Option 4 and later Option 3, we feel like the views are nicer from higher up and we enjoyed the alpine experience and the glacial valley of 3.

The west traverse is nicer, the view is a bit less impressive then the east but conditions are much more pleasant.

Option 4:
We loosley followed the route on the files. I will write up a loose description of the route and attach an email address if you want our gpx.

From Pass 37h[68.1/492] ascend uphill north roughly following the ridgeline. The terrain is bluffy and low bush. No water here except tarns.
After passing west of the high point of the ridge (S 48.813329 W 072.704473) continue ascending north towards the gulley, you enter a forest, some of it easily traversable some less, after the gulley you continue north in a bog and then a bit of bb in forest. There may be campsite options in this part as it is flatter. after, you enter high alpine CC for almost the reminder of the route. Continue north towards the gulley of the pass. The Nav and CC is easy. Big snow patches in the pass. The rest is scree.
Descending was quick with the snow. Ascending SoBo would probably be exhausting with all the snow. The gully gets steep and you walk west on the south bank. We found various cow trails and camped before connecting to Opt3. Forded 100m upstream of ford waypoint and connected to Opt3.

Option 4 offered beautiful views over the lake, the bluffs were nice and once youre in alpine terrain the view opens up. And fitz roy accompanies the journey from afar. We very much enjoyed this Option and would reccomend it.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 5 to Apr 14 / 9 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 1, 1B, RR, Var A, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES:
Though it's almost impossible to choose a favorite GPT section, this may be ours. It felt as big and wild as some of the northern sections, and the demanding navigation made it really adventurous. We would definitely recommend budgeting more time for this section to really enjoy it, and to make the route-finding less frustrating. (I spent at least three days carrying the GPS in one hand all day because I had to check it so often there was no point in putting it back on the strap.) We also really enjoyed Opt 1 to Lago Negro. As a bonus, if you choose to do Opt 1 and then take the CC/BB Opt 1B to avoid backtracking, the rest of the route will seem easy by comparison!

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.48213, -72.66873 (Camp Opt 1 [8.69], in the forest, some wind protection, water access is about 50 m away at the lake, or about 100 m further along there was a clear stream running across the trail)

Night 02: -48.52777, -72.72149 (Lake, Camp Opt 1 [16.2] (wind protected, easy water access)

Night 03: -48.53809, -72.67203 (flat, okay wind protection, nice views of lake and mountains, water from stream about 50 m away)

Night 04: -48.59170, -72.65789 (flat, wind protected, no view, water access is about 300 m away)

Night 05: Camp without water 40.3 (decent wind protection, had a kind of half-corral style wind barrier; there actually was water, at (-48.64095, -72.71988) about 70 m north of the campsite, it's just a little tricky to get to)

Night 06: Camp 49.2 Arollo Derrumbe (most of the site is a bit on a slope, but we did find a pretty flat spot next to the large willow tree just a bit up from the fire ring, good water access on the pebble beach, really nice place to see the sunset)

Night 07: Puesto 53.7 La Pampa (there was a flat area inside the corral at the western side, almost directly opposite the cottonwood trees, wind protection was good, water was from a shallow stream up the hill about 100 m, access was a little tricky)

Night 08: Camp 66.6 Vista Fitz Roy (we don't recommend this as a campsite. Water access is not good, there is no wind protection, if it's early in the season or has been raining there will likely be no place to put the tent that isn’t swampy. We found one dry seasonal lake bed a little below the fire ring that worked, but we imagine that it is often swampy or under water; we would recommend to make this a lunch or coffee break spot and camp a little further along the trail, maybe near the river around Camp 63.5 or 63.6)

Night 09: Stayed at Misael’s

WATER: there is a lot of water

Day 01 - Apr 5th

We booked the boat with Ruedas the day before, arranging for them to pick us up in Bahía Pescado on the 14th (their last sailing of the season). In the morning, we dropped off two boxes of resupply since we were planning to do 37, 38, and 39 together. We started hiking a little after 10:00. The gravel road out is kind of annoying. There was a surprising amount of traffic on it. At X 3.6 there were a couple of picnic tables and a trailhead to the Sendero Altavista trail, which is the beginning of Opt 1 (Lago Negro). We had originally planned to just do the western traverse along RR, but when we saw the sign we checked the wiki, and after reading Volker’s trip report we decided to go with Opt 1. The trail was generally in good shape and easy, though there were a number of muddy spots. The views were amazing and we were lucky to have sun and no wind, so it was very pleasant. Ford Opt 1 [11.5] was easy, mid calf and almost no current. On the other side of the river was a private property sign and a wire fence. The gate (also wire) was padlocked shut, so we lifted the bags over it and then climbed between the wires on a side section to the right in order to not damage the gate. We passed by the buildings, it looked like it was abandoned. We continued onto the lake and camped around the Camp 8.69 waypoint. We found a flattish spot in the woods just above the trail. There was a clear stream running across the trail about 100 m on that was a good water source, but the lake is easily accessible as well.

Day 02 - Apr 6th

We continued around Lago Negro. For the first km or so the trail was easy and in fairly good shape. But after that it oscillated between good to non-existant, open to bush bash. It was definitely slow going. Much of the trail is in the forest, and it is Valdivian rainforest. It is very dark inside and feels like a jungle. Then the trail climbed up onto more exposed areas. There were lots and lots of muddy and marshy sections. It was slow going to work around them and keep our feet dry, but we managed. Somewhere around km 11 the trail drops down to the lake. We put on water shoes and just walked along the bank for about 500 m to avoid all the bush bashing. If the lake level is low enough and the weather is good, we recommend it, it goes much faster. The trail then went up again. Just before Water 12.6 we stopped for lunch on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It was a really great view and a nice break spot. The trail went up and down a few more times. We were tempted towards the end to walk in the water again but decided against it. Looking down from above it seemed like the right call. There were a number of dead trees in the lake that would have been hard to maneuver around. We camped at the south end of the lake . There was a fire ring and the site was set back in the trees a bit so there was some wind protection. The beach was really nice on that end of the lake, and we wished we had time to take a zero day here and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Day 03 - Apr 7th

We took Option 1B up to reconnect with RR to avoid backtracking. It was very, very slow going. At first there seemed to be a bit of a trail, but that ended quite quickly. Nearly the entire route up is a CC/BB the whole way, and much of it was quite steep. It took us almost exactly 8 hours including a couple of short rests to make the 1.3 km up. It never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of work. On the bright side, that put all the route finding for the rest of the section in perspective. There were some amazing views at the top. We camped in the forest along the side of the larger lake that starts at around km 26.5 of Opt 1. We found a flat spot about half way between the beginning and the end of the lake that had a fire ring. There was a clear stream a little before it that was a good water source.

Day 04 - Apr 8th

We continued back toward RR. The fall colors and the light at that time of year were amazing. It was full sun and no wind that day. Somewhere around km 28.9 of Opt 1 we decided to CC southeast to skip a lobe of the trail. It worked out for us, however the area is a marsh and earlier in the season or after rain it might not be passable. At km 29.9 of Opt 1 there was an open field that would have been good for camping and a good stream for water. From the clearing we went CC to RR, similar to Var A, but further south. By staying to the right of the river and going uphill we managed fairly easily. The trail up to the pass was very steep and in sections had scree over hard packed earth, so we did a lot of CC on the way up as well. About half way up we stopped to rest for a couple of minutes. There were a couple of condors flying around. Kasia was about 7 meters away from me. One of the condors dipped to fly by her, maybe just 2 or 3 meters away! It was an absolutely enormous bird. At the top of the pass there is a plateau. There were a couple of small lakes and some streams. We stopped by one of the lakes for lunch. With sun and no wind it was very pleasant. The way down the other side was fairly easy to follow. The valley on the other side looked like it was out of a fairytale, and the fall colors really looked amazing. We wandered around for a while just to explore. About 50 m away from Ford 18.4 there was a large tree that had fallen across the river and made a good bridge. Camping on both sides of the river looked nice, there were flat grassy areas. I would have chosen to camp before crossing just because it was easier water access, but there was a fire ring on the far side. Ford 19.8 was dry when we passed. Ford 20.6 was just above the ankle. We had trouble finding camping around Ford 20.6 as much of the area is rocky, and a lot of the forest had shrubs instead of grass. We found a spot fairly far from the river, but it was flat and had good wind protection, which was good because the wind started over night and continued into the morning.

Day 05 - Apr 9th

We got up early to make as much distance as possible. It was windy and cold. Ford 21.6 was easy, it had a fair amount of current, but was below half calf. Camp 24.6 looked nice. It was inside an open forest and was a place that arrieros camp with a windwall and fire ring. At the Ford mark shortly after, the water was very shallow, but wide. I was able to drop a long branch across it to create a makeshift bridge. The first part of the way around the lake was through forest, but the lake level was fairly low, so by about a third of the way around we could walk on the beach the rest of the way. Camp 29.3 looked okay. It was in a clearing set back from the lake a bit. There was still a fair amount of wind coming through on the day we passed, though I imagine the direction of the wind makes a big difference. Ford, X 30.2 was knee deep but with very little current. Ford 31.7 was half calf with a moderate current. We were not really sure where Camp 37.0 was. It was not near water and there didn’t seem to be any flat place to camp. We don't recommend planning this one for camping if you can avoid it. The rest of the way to the pass was a bit challenging. It was incredibly windy on that side. There isn't really a trail for much of it and it goes back and forth across the river several times. About 100 m before Ford 38.8 was actually the first of several fords. After the fords there were some deep marshy areas. We crossed the pass and camped at Camp 40.3. It was a good spot. There was very little wind there. The wind wall at the site was set up almost like a corral. There's only room for one tent, and the X-Mid 2 just barely fit, but it did fit. We discovered that there is actually a water source there, about 70 m due north of the camp site. The way to it is kind of marshy/muddy, but I was able to access it without getting my feet wet. Earlier in the season that might not be possible.

Day 06 - Apr 10th

We started down early. It was fully overcast but an almost windless day. The muted grey of the clouds combined with the turquoise of the water and the oranges and reds of the trees made for spectacular scenery throughout the day. Despite the descent being listed as CC, a good bit of it actually followed a trail. About 500 m before the trailhead, we decided to do a complete CC heading south-southeast instead of southwest. We headed toward a grassy patch then cut more south, went down a steep animal path and across a marshy field before finally reconnecting with RR. I’m not sure it saved any time or distance, but it was fun to explore. Ford 43.6 was dry foot crossable, we stopped there for lunch. Ford 45.6 appeared a little tricky, but since we had read the reports from Tomas, Roman and Jonas, we were aware of the turn and it was no problem at all. The descent to Camp 39.2 was CC/BB. Towards the end it was possible to cut across the boulder field early and go directly to the camp site rather than to the lake and coming around along the beach. Arrollo Derrumbe was nice and had easy access to a pebble beach. We had an absolutely stunning sunset that night. We camped up next to a willow tree a little ways away from the fire ring because the ground was more level there.

Day 07 - Apr 11th

We were hoping to get to Camp Vista Fitz Roy, but it had rained in the night and even with our rain gear we got soaked just going through the brush. As we got to La Pampa it started to rain. We found a place up in the forest to take shelter to wait it out for a bit. When the rain stopped it was already late in the afternoon and we knew we were unlikely to make it. Reading through notes and looking at topo and satellite imagery we thought it would be fairly unlikely to find another camp at least until km 63.4, so we decided to just camp early. We found a flat and fairly wind protected spot inside the corral on the western side. It had stopped raining and some sun had come out so we strung up a line and hung some of our wet clothes to try to get them dry. For water we went back up the hill to the east about 100 m. Outside the fence there was a shallow stream flowing through a wetland area. It was a little tricky to access.

Day 08 - Apr 12th

We hiked over the pass and then down. There was no issue passing by Bahia Once Hermanos on the RR. It looked like Var E would take you directly to the house, but the RR stays outside the fenced areas of the property. We did not see anyone when we passed. We took Var G. The path wasn’t always clear, but this part of the peninsula was mostly low shrubs so it was easy to find a way. Ford 63.5 was half-calf, mild current. Both the camp before and the camp after the ford looked okay. The one after was cleaner. Water 65.9 was actually a ford similar to Ford 45.6. There was a lot of brush on both sides that encroached on the passage and made it a little tricky. This was also the last place to get running water if staying at Camp 66.6. We were actually fairly disappointed with this campsite (notes above in the Camps section). We would recommend camping elsewhere and just stopping for lunch or a break at this spot.

Day 09 - Apr 13th

It was a cold and windy day. It seemed that the wind had knocked most of the water off the bushes as we did not get nearly as wet as a few days prior. The route was often tricky to find. We got lost towards the top and ended up CCing a steep hill to get to the pass. There was a short little plateau and then it began to drop down the other side. It was even windier on the far side. Miseal was a very hospitable host. We talked for quite awhile. For dinner he made roasted lamb ribs, salad with greens from his garden, and a kind of deep fried yeasted bread cooked in lamb fat, which was really delicious. He explained that the bread was very similar to sopaipilla, with the main difference being that what he made is fried in animal fat and sopaipilla is fried in oil. We preferred his version to the more common sopaipilla. We slept on the floor in a side room that seemed to function as both a storage room and a guest room.

Day 10 - Air 14th

The boat arrived on time. We said goodbye to Misael and got on the boat. The ride was maybe 15 minutes. At the dock on the other side we took the boxes and walked to Ricardo and Maria's place.

*'''2025-MAR-20 to 2025-MAR-21 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We skipped the Peninsula Florida. The most crucial part of this section is the boat transfer from Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamóndez) to the opposite shore of Lago O'Higgins (Candelario Mancilla).

BOAT CROSSING:

There are two companies in Villa O'Higgins that transport tourists across the lake – Amigo Patagon (office here: -48.4615871, -72.5605656) and Las Ruedas (office here: -48.4640142, -72.5582920). We initially communicated with Amigo Patagon, but due to poor communication and unprofessionalism, we ended up purchasing tickets from Las Ruedas (55,000 CLP if bought online, 60,000 CLP at the office).

When purchasing a ticket, you are required to fill out a form, after which you will receive a document called "Salvo Conducto" via email. You will need this document at the border control when exiting Chile.

!!! Although the boat usually runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), weather conditions can play a significant role. We arrived in Villa O'Higgins on Friday (March 14), missed the Saturday boat due to waiting for a package, and the next crossing was postponed until the following Friday due to strong winds.

We recommend starting the hike as soon as possible, as a large number of people travel by boat, and border control can take several hours, if you're on the end of the queue.

A well-maintained road, mostly through forest, leads to the Argentine border. After the first climb, the majestic Fitz Roy appears between the trees for the first time. Once in Argentina, the trail becomes narrower, with many boggy sections and small stream crossings.

Challenges: Patience

Bivouacking: Camping is only allowed in designated areas. The first official campsite is near the Argentine border control at Laguna del Desierto (-48.9996549, -72.8379285).

Water: There is plenty of water after Candelario Mancilla, with numerous small streams crossing the route.

Resupply: There are several shops in Villa O'Higgins. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.
There is no resupply on the end of this section.

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

*'''2025-01-20 to 2025-01-22 / 3 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / RR, RP (Laguna Verde), RR / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left Isla Central with La Soberania (boat ~10 days for inhabitants of the lake). After a tour of the inhabitants, La Florida left us at Bahia Pescado around mid-day. We followed the RR from km 69 to ~km 60.

Day 2:
Continued the RR until km~33.

Day 3:
Continued the RR for a couple of km until the Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde was completely flat so we packrafted it (not engaged as you can follow the shore all the time): great moment ! Continued the RR (multiple easy fords - ankle/below knee height - after Laguna Verde) until Bahia Bahamondes where we hitchhicked to Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2026-01-27T12:34:15Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-21 to 2026-Jan-25 / 5 days / Hiking / CCW / RR / Kole'''

An amazing adventure, but not without its challenges. The beach walking portions and sunset at Laguna Verde were memorable highlights. It was very immersive with not seeing anyone else during the trek.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5

Camps:

Night 1: Camp [105.1/549] — a great flat and relatively sheltered camp spot on Laguna Verde, I didn’t find it excessively buggy

Night 2: Camp [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) — another great spot right off a rocky beach on Lago O’Higgins, there are several flat and somewhat sheltered spots. Note that the waypoint is mislabeled, the camp is actually around km 49.0

Night 3: Camp [76.0/464] — no views, small spot, but greatly protected

Night 4: Camp [97.3/262] — plenty of flat and sheltered spaces in and around a forested coral

Challenges:
Some very overgrown (and rather thorny) trail in many parts. The trail also at times becomes difficult to follow amongst the rouge cow paths, keeping a diligent eye on GPS is required. Expect a constant personal escort of horse flies on windless days. Many fords and bogs made for wet feet the entire trek. I experienced relatively tame weather, but do expect this segment to be much more difficult in poor conditions.

Fords:
Ford {37H} [69.8/255] at Bahia Pescado was waist deep (~100cm) but easily passable with a minimal current.

Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) and Ford {37H} [97.0/255] (Rio San Martin) were closer to 80cm high but with strong currents required careful footing.

I found Ford [96.6/255] to be entirely impassable at the time of my trek. The path requires wading across a bay, but the tide was up to my pack. I had to turn back and take variant Q along the boggy shore.

* ''' 2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 Days / Hiking / 01, 08, 01 RR / Mor '''

General remarks:
Default state is wet feet as the mountain feels like one big swamp.
Trail finding is definitely the most challenging part of it.

Day 1: villa O'Higgins -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]
Walking on Opt 1, trail finding is largest challenge after passing the puesto.
Tried to go into Opt 2 and Opt 2A but as I was about 750m into Opt 2 a sudden hail shower turned me back as I didn't want to walk on the exposed ridge of Opt 2A in strong winds and showers.

Day 2: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Camp {37H-08} [4.6/337] (Bad Weather Option) -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]

*Option 8*: until where camps are marked (around 4.6 km) it is walkable on a decent trail which does require more BB/CC than Opt1 but is okay. Exploration part seemed undoable or highly demanding. No apparent trail that goes up the ridge. Abundance of rock fall and overall poor quality rock. Very very steep and exposed face. Wind is a big factor especially as the trail faces West and most winds comes from W-NW meaning they hit you directly. I turned around after a few hundred metres as I figured it didn't worth the risk of exploring it alone.

It forced me to trace back to Opt 1 and miss the part of Laguna Verde. In the end, due to lack of food, motivation and overall low physical feeling I cut the journey short leaving room for the next time.

Day 3: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Villa O'Higgins.
Easy stroll on decent trails back to VOH.

* ''' 2026-Jan-5 to 2026-Jan-14 / 10 Days / Hiking / RR, 01, A, RR, 03, RR / Massa and Jacicek '''

Day 1
We started walking at villa O’Higgin's and took option 1 to laguna negra. The path up to Laguna is nice and there is a lot of viewpoints. After the ford there is a gate and it can be opened from the right side. The puesto appeared to be empty, but there were a pair of water shoes before the ford. We camped at camp km 12.3.

Day 2
The path on the right side of the lake was in worse condition than the day before. And you need to pay attention to the GPS to stay on the path. Water was available at multiple places along the path. We stayed at camp km 18.7.

Day 3
We continued along the option 01. The initial horse trail is certainly nice. The cross-country section up the hill was rather challenging, but there was almost no bb. From the pass 23.9, the path is nice again. We camped at -48.53519, -72.69804.

Day 4
We found opt A to be traversable without issue, follow the edge of the dense forest, The path was even cleared at certain spots. The pass is really beautiful. Camped at [-48.55710, -72.64674].

Day 5
A lot of CC through wet marches. At the edge of the Lago (Ford 24.9) we would recommend to go through lake water further, as there is deep bog and large fallen tree just in path. Several dozen meters further is much nicer path. Camp km 105.1.

Day 6
Due to bad weather forecast for counter clock wise traverse we went in the direction of Bahia Aros. Ford at 96.6 was almost waist deep,, but narrow. We haven’t managed to find a path around through the shallow water (muddy after about half way). Settlers at puesto 90.5, they were friendly and told us that we can stay at refugio at Bahia Aros (where we camped). Ford at Rio Aros was rather strong and waist deep in the evening.

Day 7
Opt 3 starts with animal trail tracks. Some are better than others, and at places there are many new ones. The flatter valley section is boggy, but there are plenty places to pitch a tent, even wind protected. We camped [-48.71497, -72.67569], which wasn’t really flat however.

Day 8
Path 03 down to puesto La Pampa is nice and maintained with beautiful view of the Lago. The CC section 41.1 +1.7 was demanding for us. We stayed at camp 40.2, we found water there as described by Michael and Kasia.

Day 9
A lot of rain today, with many fords due to that rain. Camped at camp 114.5.

Day 10
Track back to villa O’higgins.

'''2026-Jan-04 to 2026-Jan-08 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Full 8 Circuit, anti-clockwise; RR, G / Emily'''

An incredible section - one of my favourites. I really enjoyed the full circuit and its diversity of trail and landscapes - would highly recommend! If you’re short on time, I’d suggest the western traverse, or an inverted ‘Q’ (i.e. a side trip to Cañadon los Patos rather than to Bahia San Martin) for the best views and trail.
Attractiveness - 5/5
Difficulty - 4/5

Camps
* Day 1 - Ford/Camp [18.3/637]. Plenty of space. Lots of bugs.
* Day 2 - -48.701918, -72.755100, (beach before Camp 62.2/262, where the CC ends). Space for 1 tent, flat but sloped, very hard ground. I wouldn’t recommend this spot and would suggest continuing to the marked camp. I only stopped here after arriving at the first beach and misreading the map. Note, this camp is around 48.5km - not 62.2.
* Day 3 - -48.834730, -72.625340 (hill above Camp 76.4/449). No water, lumpy and zero protection, but beautiful views.
* Day 4 - -48.677538, -72.589635 (approx. 101.3km). Very small spot. No water but a small stream shortly beforehand. I would only recommend in a pinch; Camps 97.5/320 and 105.1/549 looked a lot more comfortable. There were a couple of spots before in the forest that would’ve been more suitable if you’re looking to camp between the two marked spots.

The write up in the manual gives a great overview of the section. I found conditions to be more/less the same, with the biggest challenges being wayfinding and overgrown trail. Some points of note
* I started from Villa O’Higgins at midday on a Sunday; no luck with hitches. On return (Thursday, 5pm), there were plenty of cars near the Fin de la Carretera sign at Bahia Bahamondes, and I got a hitch shortly thereafter.
* After the bridge at 8.3/282 there’s a trail that cuts straight up to the RR around -48.519166, -72.597222, avoiding the unnecessary descent.
* Watch for the RR turnoff at the intersection for Option 1 - very easy to miss and continue on to the option.
* The RR requires some BB where it diverges from Variant G. G is instead relatively clear and easy to follow.
* There are lots of misleading animal trails, though with a bit of creative CC you can usually find your way back to the RR. The exception to this was after Water 49.9/252; watch for the trail going up. I continued along a well-defined animal trail, and when trying to cut across hit some steep scrambles and impenetrable BB. Best to backtrack if you find yourself in a similar situation.
* Trail on the eastern traverse was at times overgrown, requiring some CC/BB in thorny bush. For the most part, the path remained visible. These overgrown sections became very wet after light rain, making for some pretty miserable and cold walking.
* After a week of sun, I had no issues with fords. I crossed Rio Aro [90.1/263] around 3.30pm, starting below the waypoint and walking on a diagonal up. This kept me in shallows to my knee, with the exception of the last 2m to my mid-upper thigh (165cm). I crossed Rio San Martin [97.0/255] at the waypoint; mid-upper thigh. Both fords had strong currents, but weren’t particularly difficult.

<big>'''2025-12-20 to 2025-12-22/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ RR, Option 2, Option 2A, Option 1/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Overall
Wild and scenic mountain and forest/ lake environments, with challenging wind, cold and rain, and complex terrain to navigate.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 4/5

Accommodation in Villa O’Higgins
I camped at Camping Paraíso for CLP 8,000 per night
Friendly host, hot showers, kitchen/ dining room, and 50m to a cool microbrewery/ restaurant with tasty hamburgers and fries :-)

Day 1
Somewhat challenging finding a route on Option 2, uphill to Cerro Altavista, alternating between bush bashing seemingly unavoidable tree groves and rocky ridges. Made much slower progress than anticipated to get to turn-off to Cerro Altavista, and the wind was rising so I ‘cut the corner’ and continued on (EXP/I) Option 2A. Generally better progress was made on the northern side of the ridge. However it was slow progress with lots of shale, loose rock and rock hopping. The route was not straightforward with many climbs and descents on rock bands which extend down from the ridge. Route finding would be very difficult in poor visibility. I recommend Option 2A only in good visibility. I camped here: -48.52680, -72.69173, beside a small alpine lake.

Day 2
I intended to hike Option 1 to get to Options 8 and 8C, but made slow progress due to glitches with my primary navigation device (Garmin Enduro 3), which made it unusable. I tried to use the Gaia app as the primary but this slowed me down (not hands free for poles) with constant checking required in complex terrain, and would have required lots of phone charging in the days ahead. Due to expected slow progress (especially EXP/I Option 8C) and uncertain ability to solar charge my power banks (unreliable direct sunlight), I decided it was prudent to abort and return to Villa O’Higgins to fix the Garmin fault. Camped at Laguna Negra Camp [18.7, 298] - nice sheltered spot set back from the lake.

Day 3
Returned to Villa O’Higgins on Option 1, via Laguna Negra. Slow going on the track beside the lake, with lots of fallen branches and trees, and indistinct or non-existent trail, particularly around here: -48.49909, -72.68848. However lovely views over the lake in both directions, and after the lake approaching Villa O’Higgins.

Postscript
The GPS issue seems to have been caused by using the Auto Select function which, according to the manual, uses “ SatIQ™ technology to dynamically select the best multi-band GNSS
system based on your environment. The Auto Select setting offers the best positioning accuracy while still
prioritizing battery life”. However I found that frequently the device was unable to fix my position at all, meaning also that ancillary functions like distance, elevation and speed did not work either.

Afterwards I consulted Jan (he has the latest Garmin Fenix), who said that he uses the ‘GPS only’ mode to conserve battery power.

This is what Chat GPT says about the benefit of using “GPS Only” mode on your Garmin Enduro 3:

“Main Benefit — Better Battery Life
• GPS Only mode limits the watch to just the U.S. GPS satellite constellation instead of using multiple GNSS systems (like GPS + GLONASS/Galileo).
• Because it’s only tracking one system instead of many, it consumes substantially less power. That means longer battery life during activities like long hikes, ultramarathons, multi-day backpacking trips, etc.

For example, with GPS-only tracking the Enduro 3 can last significantly longer on a single charge compared to modes using all systems:
• GPS Only: ~120 hours (up to ~320 hours with good solar)
• All Systems: ~80 hours (up to ~144 hours with solar)
• All Systems + Multi-Band: ~60 hours (up to ~90 hours with solar)

So if you’re more concerned about maximizing time between charges and don’t need the absolute best positional precision, GPS Only is typically the most efficient setting.

** Trade-Off — Potentially Less Precision in Hard Environments

By using just GPS satellites, you might get slightly slower fix times or somewhat less precise positioning in challenging environments (like dense forest, deep canyons, or urban canyons) compared with multi-GNSS or multi-band settings. That’s because those broader settings can pull signals from more satellites to improve accuracy and lock-on speed.

When to Use GPS Only
- Long endurance activities where battery life is more important than pinpoint accuracy
- Backcountry trips, multi-day hikes, thru-hikes
- Activities in open areas where GPS signal is strong and accuracy differences are minimal

When Not Ideal
- In very dense tree cover or canyons if you need the tightest track logging
- For activities with precise navigation or mapping requirements.

In short: GPS Only mode extends battery life by simplifying the satellite system used, which is great for long adventures — at the cost of some positional precision in tough signal areas.”

<big>'''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-30 / 6 days / hiking /RR east trav Sobo, Opt 4(EXP/I), Opt 3, Opt 3B, RR west trav Nobo / Ohad & Bailey'''</big>

We found this section wild, beautiful and hard. I will write the general information, add our opinions, and at the end describe Option 4 which is EXP and I. I apologise for the long one.

Fees:
Non

Camp:
Camp 37h [30.5/543] - nice protected corral in the forest. Río San Martin close by for water.

Camp 37h [78.5/291] - semi sheltered, little mound is protecting from wind coming from the lake. River to the northeast was silty, found a small clear stream about 100m to the south west.

Camped at S 48.758705 W 072.633320. Protected Camp with stream near by, in an unmaintained forest, maybe not the best in high winds. Falling tree danger?

Camp 37h [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe), beatiful beach, we cowboyed on the beach there. Camp looks a bit lumpy, no water other than the lake.

Camp 37h [24.5/552] nice camp, water nearby, lots of mosquitos.

Fords:
Many fords, only three of note.
Ford 37h [90.1/263] (Rio Aro). It was quite strong. We crossed it closer to shore than shown in the files.
The fords on varient M were unpassable, we forded a bit upstream (S 48.661758 W 072.604474) and with a bit of BB and clambering got back to route.
Ford 37h [79.5/520] (Cascada) is an easy ford but very impressive with the waterfall and with higher stakes.

Water:
No problem.

Trail Conditions/Challenges:
The trail on the east traverse is much less clear and much steeper than the west with a lot of TL sections that feel like CC or light BB. Very easy to veer off route.

The route was often wet, many fords and bogs.

We would not recc Varient M. Unnecessary fords and risky fords, BB and clambering. Just go to RR, its not a time saver.

We encountered no one at Bahia Pescado

Opinions:
we found the east traverse very demanding with constant routefinding, light BB and very steep rollar coaster trail. The east traverse offers amazing views over Lago Ohiggins, with the lake snaking through the mountains. The beach walks are nice and the waterfall ford is very memorable. But over all the trail experience hindered our enjoyment of the views.

We were very happy with our decision to head inland on Option 4 and later Option 3, we feel like the views are nicer from higher up and we enjoyed the alpine experience and the glacial valley of 3.

The west traverse is nicer, the view is a bit less impressive then the east but conditions are much more pleasant.

Option 4:
We loosley followed the route on the files. I will write up a loose description of the route and attach an email address if you want our gpx.

From Pass 37h[68.1/492] ascend uphill north roughly following the ridgeline. The terrain is bluffy and low bush. No water here except tarns.
After passing west of the high point of the ridge (S 48.813329 W 072.704473) continue ascending north towards the gulley, you enter a forest, some of it easily traversable some less, after the gulley you continue north in a bog and then a bit of bb in forest. There may be campsite options in this part as it is flatter. after, you enter high alpine CC for almost the reminder of the route. Continue north towards the gulley of the pass. The Nav and CC is easy. Big snow patches in the pass. The rest is scree.
Descending was quick with the snow. Ascending SoBo would probably be exhausting with all the snow. The gully gets steep and you walk west on the south bank. We found various cow trails and camped before connecting to Opt3. Forded 100m upstream of ford waypoint and connected to Opt3.

Option 4 offered beautiful views over the lake, the bluffs were nice and once youre in alpine terrain the view opens up. And fitz roy accompanies the journey from afar. We very much enjoyed this Option and would reccomend it.

Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 5 to Apr 14 / 9 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 1, 1B, RR, Var A, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES:
Though it's almost impossible to choose a favorite GPT section, this may be ours. It felt as big and wild as some of the northern sections, and the demanding navigation made it really adventurous. We would definitely recommend budgeting more time for this section to really enjoy it, and to make the route-finding less frustrating. (I spent at least three days carrying the GPS in one hand all day because I had to check it so often there was no point in putting it back on the strap.) We also really enjoyed Opt 1 to Lago Negro. As a bonus, if you choose to do Opt 1 and then take the CC/BB Opt 1B to avoid backtracking, the rest of the route will seem easy by comparison!

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.48213, -72.66873 (Camp Opt 1 [8.69], in the forest, some wind protection, water access is about 50 m away at the lake, or about 100 m further along there was a clear stream running across the trail)

Night 02: -48.52777, -72.72149 (Lake, Camp Opt 1 [16.2] (wind protected, easy water access)

Night 03: -48.53809, -72.67203 (flat, okay wind protection, nice views of lake and mountains, water from stream about 50 m away)

Night 04: -48.59170, -72.65789 (flat, wind protected, no view, water access is about 300 m away)

Night 05: Camp without water 40.3 (decent wind protection, had a kind of half-corral style wind barrier; there actually was water, at (-48.64095, -72.71988) about 70 m north of the campsite, it's just a little tricky to get to)

Night 06: Camp 49.2 Arollo Derrumbe (most of the site is a bit on a slope, but we did find a pretty flat spot next to the large willow tree just a bit up from the fire ring, good water access on the pebble beach, really nice place to see the sunset)

Night 07: Puesto 53.7 La Pampa (there was a flat area inside the corral at the western side, almost directly opposite the cottonwood trees, wind protection was good, water was from a shallow stream up the hill about 100 m, access was a little tricky)

Night 08: Camp 66.6 Vista Fitz Roy (we don't recommend this as a campsite. Water access is not good, there is no wind protection, if it's early in the season or has been raining there will likely be no place to put the tent that isn’t swampy. We found one dry seasonal lake bed a little below the fire ring that worked, but we imagine that it is often swampy or under water; we would recommend to make this a lunch or coffee break spot and camp a little further along the trail, maybe near the river around Camp 63.5 or 63.6)

Night 09: Stayed at Misael’s

WATER: there is a lot of water

Day 01 - Apr 5th

We booked the boat with Ruedas the day before, arranging for them to pick us up in Bahía Pescado on the 14th (their last sailing of the season). In the morning, we dropped off two boxes of resupply since we were planning to do 37, 38, and 39 together. We started hiking a little after 10:00. The gravel road out is kind of annoying. There was a surprising amount of traffic on it. At X 3.6 there were a couple of picnic tables and a trailhead to the Sendero Altavista trail, which is the beginning of Opt 1 (Lago Negro). We had originally planned to just do the western traverse along RR, but when we saw the sign we checked the wiki, and after reading Volker’s trip report we decided to go with Opt 1. The trail was generally in good shape and easy, though there were a number of muddy spots. The views were amazing and we were lucky to have sun and no wind, so it was very pleasant. Ford Opt 1 [11.5] was easy, mid calf and almost no current. On the other side of the river was a private property sign and a wire fence. The gate (also wire) was padlocked shut, so we lifted the bags over it and then climbed between the wires on a side section to the right in order to not damage the gate. We passed by the buildings, it looked like it was abandoned. We continued onto the lake and camped around the Camp 8.69 waypoint. We found a flattish spot in the woods just above the trail. There was a clear stream running across the trail about 100 m on that was a good water source, but the lake is easily accessible as well.

Day 02 - Apr 6th

We continued around Lago Negro. For the first km or so the trail was easy and in fairly good shape. But after that it oscillated between good to non-existant, open to bush bash. It was definitely slow going. Much of the trail is in the forest, and it is Valdivian rainforest. It is very dark inside and feels like a jungle. Then the trail climbed up onto more exposed areas. There were lots and lots of muddy and marshy sections. It was slow going to work around them and keep our feet dry, but we managed. Somewhere around km 11 the trail drops down to the lake. We put on water shoes and just walked along the bank for about 500 m to avoid all the bush bashing. If the lake level is low enough and the weather is good, we recommend it, it goes much faster. The trail then went up again. Just before Water 12.6 we stopped for lunch on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It was a really great view and a nice break spot. The trail went up and down a few more times. We were tempted towards the end to walk in the water again but decided against it. Looking down from above it seemed like the right call. There were a number of dead trees in the lake that would have been hard to maneuver around. We camped at the south end of the lake . There was a fire ring and the site was set back in the trees a bit so there was some wind protection. The beach was really nice on that end of the lake, and we wished we had time to take a zero day here and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Day 03 - Apr 7th

We took Option 1B up to reconnect with RR to avoid backtracking. It was very, very slow going. At first there seemed to be a bit of a trail, but that ended quite quickly. Nearly the entire route up is a CC/BB the whole way, and much of it was quite steep. It took us almost exactly 8 hours including a couple of short rests to make the 1.3 km up. It never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of work. On the bright side, that put all the route finding for the rest of the section in perspective. There were some amazing views at the top. We camped in the forest along the side of the larger lake that starts at around km 26.5 of Opt 1. We found a flat spot about half way between the beginning and the end of the lake that had a fire ring. There was a clear stream a little before it that was a good water source.

Day 04 - Apr 8th

We continued back toward RR. The fall colors and the light at that time of year were amazing. It was full sun and no wind that day. Somewhere around km 28.9 of Opt 1 we decided to CC southeast to skip a lobe of the trail. It worked out for us, however the area is a marsh and earlier in the season or after rain it might not be passable. At km 29.9 of Opt 1 there was an open field that would have been good for camping and a good stream for water. From the clearing we went CC to RR, similar to Var A, but further south. By staying to the right of the river and going uphill we managed fairly easily. The trail up to the pass was very steep and in sections had scree over hard packed earth, so we did a lot of CC on the way up as well. About half way up we stopped to rest for a couple of minutes. There were a couple of condors flying around. Kasia was about 7 meters away from me. One of the condors dipped to fly by her, maybe just 2 or 3 meters away! It was an absolutely enormous bird. At the top of the pass there is a plateau. There were a couple of small lakes and some streams. We stopped by one of the lakes for lunch. With sun and no wind it was very pleasant. The way down the other side was fairly easy to follow. The valley on the other side looked like it was out of a fairytale, and the fall colors really looked amazing. We wandered around for a while just to explore. About 50 m away from Ford 18.4 there was a large tree that had fallen across the river and made a good bridge. Camping on both sides of the river looked nice, there were flat grassy areas. I would have chosen to camp before crossing just because it was easier water access, but there was a fire ring on the far side. Ford 19.8 was dry when we passed. Ford 20.6 was just above the ankle. We had trouble finding camping around Ford 20.6 as much of the area is rocky, and a lot of the forest had shrubs instead of grass. We found a spot fairly far from the river, but it was flat and had good wind protection, which was good because the wind started over night and continued into the morning.

Day 05 - Apr 9th

We got up early to make as much distance as possible. It was windy and cold. Ford 21.6 was easy, it had a fair amount of current, but was below half calf. Camp 24.6 looked nice. It was inside an open forest and was a place that arrieros camp with a windwall and fire ring. At the Ford mark shortly after, the water was very shallow, but wide. I was able to drop a long branch across it to create a makeshift bridge. The first part of the way around the lake was through forest, but the lake level was fairly low, so by about a third of the way around we could walk on the beach the rest of the way. Camp 29.3 looked okay. It was in a clearing set back from the lake a bit. There was still a fair amount of wind coming through on the day we passed, though I imagine the direction of the wind makes a big difference. Ford, X 30.2 was knee deep but with very little current. Ford 31.7 was half calf with a moderate current. We were not really sure where Camp 37.0 was. It was not near water and there didn’t seem to be any flat place to camp. We don't recommend planning this one for camping if you can avoid it. The rest of the way to the pass was a bit challenging. It was incredibly windy on that side. There isn't really a trail for much of it and it goes back and forth across the river several times. About 100 m before Ford 38.8 was actually the first of several fords. After the fords there were some deep marshy areas. We crossed the pass and camped at Camp 40.3. It was a good spot. There was very little wind there. The wind wall at the site was set up almost like a corral. There's only room for one tent, and the X-Mid 2 just barely fit, but it did fit. We discovered that there is actually a water source there, about 70 m due north of the camp site. The way to it is kind of marshy/muddy, but I was able to access it without getting my feet wet. Earlier in the season that might not be possible.

Day 06 - Apr 10th

We started down early. It was fully overcast but an almost windless day. The muted grey of the clouds combined with the turquoise of the water and the oranges and reds of the trees made for spectacular scenery throughout the day. Despite the descent being listed as CC, a good bit of it actually followed a trail. About 500 m before the trailhead, we decided to do a complete CC heading south-southeast instead of southwest. We headed toward a grassy patch then cut more south, went down a steep animal path and across a marshy field before finally reconnecting with RR. I’m not sure it saved any time or distance, but it was fun to explore. Ford 43.6 was dry foot crossable, we stopped there for lunch. Ford 45.6 appeared a little tricky, but since we had read the reports from Tomas, Roman and Jonas, we were aware of the turn and it was no problem at all. The descent to Camp 39.2 was CC/BB. Towards the end it was possible to cut across the boulder field early and go directly to the camp site rather than to the lake and coming around along the beach. Arrollo Derrumbe was nice and had easy access to a pebble beach. We had an absolutely stunning sunset that night. We camped up next to a willow tree a little ways away from the fire ring because the ground was more level there.

Day 07 - Apr 11th

We were hoping to get to Camp Vista Fitz Roy, but it had rained in the night and even with our rain gear we got soaked just going through the brush. As we got to La Pampa it started to rain. We found a place up in the forest to take shelter to wait it out for a bit. When the rain stopped it was already late in the afternoon and we knew we were unlikely to make it. Reading through notes and looking at topo and satellite imagery we thought it would be fairly unlikely to find another camp at least until km 63.4, so we decided to just camp early. We found a flat and fairly wind protected spot inside the corral on the western side. It had stopped raining and some sun had come out so we strung up a line and hung some of our wet clothes to try to get them dry. For water we went back up the hill to the east about 100 m. Outside the fence there was a shallow stream flowing through a wetland area. It was a little tricky to access.

Day 08 - Apr 12th

We hiked over the pass and then down. There was no issue passing by Bahia Once Hermanos on the RR. It looked like Var E would take you directly to the house, but the RR stays outside the fenced areas of the property. We did not see anyone when we passed. We took Var G. The path wasn’t always clear, but this part of the peninsula was mostly low shrubs so it was easy to find a way. Ford 63.5 was half-calf, mild current. Both the camp before and the camp after the ford looked okay. The one after was cleaner. Water 65.9 was actually a ford similar to Ford 45.6. There was a lot of brush on both sides that encroached on the passage and made it a little tricky. This was also the last place to get running water if staying at Camp 66.6. We were actually fairly disappointed with this campsite (notes above in the Camps section). We would recommend camping elsewhere and just stopping for lunch or a break at this spot.

Day 09 - Apr 13th

It was a cold and windy day. It seemed that the wind had knocked most of the water off the bushes as we did not get nearly as wet as a few days prior. The route was often tricky to find. We got lost towards the top and ended up CCing a steep hill to get to the pass. There was a short little plateau and then it began to drop down the other side. It was even windier on the far side. Miseal was a very hospitable host. We talked for quite awhile. For dinner he made roasted lamb ribs, salad with greens from his garden, and a kind of deep fried yeasted bread cooked in lamb fat, which was really delicious. He explained that the bread was very similar to sopaipilla, with the main difference being that what he made is fried in animal fat and sopaipilla is fried in oil. We preferred his version to the more common sopaipilla. We slept on the floor in a side room that seemed to function as both a storage room and a guest room.

Day 10 - Air 14th

The boat arrived on time. We said goodbye to Misael and got on the boat. The ride was maybe 15 minutes. At the dock on the other side we took the boxes and walked to Ricardo and Maria's place.

*'''2025-MAR-20 to 2025-MAR-21 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We skipped the Peninsula Florida. The most crucial part of this section is the boat transfer from Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamóndez) to the opposite shore of Lago O'Higgins (Candelario Mancilla).

BOAT CROSSING:

There are two companies in Villa O'Higgins that transport tourists across the lake – Amigo Patagon (office here: -48.4615871, -72.5605656) and Las Ruedas (office here: -48.4640142, -72.5582920). We initially communicated with Amigo Patagon, but due to poor communication and unprofessionalism, we ended up purchasing tickets from Las Ruedas (55,000 CLP if bought online, 60,000 CLP at the office).

When purchasing a ticket, you are required to fill out a form, after which you will receive a document called "Salvo Conducto" via email. You will need this document at the border control when exiting Chile.

!!! Although the boat usually runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), weather conditions can play a significant role. We arrived in Villa O'Higgins on Friday (March 14), missed the Saturday boat due to waiting for a package, and the next crossing was postponed until the following Friday due to strong winds.

We recommend starting the hike as soon as possible, as a large number of people travel by boat, and border control can take several hours, if you're on the end of the queue.

A well-maintained road, mostly through forest, leads to the Argentine border. After the first climb, the majestic Fitz Roy appears between the trees for the first time. Once in Argentina, the trail becomes narrower, with many boggy sections and small stream crossings.

Challenges: Patience

Bivouacking: Camping is only allowed in designated areas. The first official campsite is near the Argentine border control at Laguna del Desierto (-48.9996549, -72.8379285).

Water: There is plenty of water after Candelario Mancilla, with numerous small streams crossing the route.

Resupply: There are several shops in Villa O'Higgins. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.
There is no resupply on the end of this section.

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

*'''2025-01-20 to 2025-01-22 / 3 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / RR, RP (Laguna Verde), RR / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left Isla Central with La Soberania (boat ~10 days for inhabitants of the lake). After a tour of the inhabitants, La Florida left us at Bahia Pescado around mid-day. We followed the RR from km 69 to ~km 60.

Day 2:
Continued the RR until km~33.

Day 3:
Continued the RR for a couple of km until the Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde was completely flat so we packrafted it (not engaged as you can follow the shore all the time): great moment ! Continued the RR (multiple easy fords - ankle/below knee height - after Laguna Verde) until Bahia Bahamondes where we hitchhicked to Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-01-27T12:30:49Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''

Route (includes part of GPT39):

El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla

Day 0:

After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118

Day 1:

Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.

Day 2:

In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees.

Day 3:

Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.

Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬

''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''

Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

Camps

Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.

Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.

* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.

<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.

Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1

After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.

I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.

*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''

Day 1

Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.

We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.

We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.

We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.

We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.

Day 2

We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.

The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.

On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.

When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.

We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.

The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.

Day 3

Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot

Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-01-27T03:19:34Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''

Route (includes part of GPT39):

El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla

Day 0:

After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118

Day 1:

Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.

Day 2:

In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees. No one home as I believe this settlement is also owned by Don Lucho who was across the channel at this time.

Day 3:

Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.

Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬

''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''

Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

Camps

Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.

Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.

* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.

<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.

Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1

After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.

I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.

*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''

Day 1

Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.

We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.

We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.

We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.

We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.

Day 2

We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.

The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.

On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.

When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.

We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.

The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.

Day 3

Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot

Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-01-27T03:17:57Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''

Route (includes part of GPT39):
El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla

Day 0:

After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118

Day 1:

Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.

Day 2:

In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees. No one home as I believe this settlement is also owned by Don Lucho who was across the channel at this time.

Day 3:

Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.

Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬

''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''

Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

Camps

Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.

Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.

* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.

<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.

Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1

After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.

I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.

*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''

Day 1

Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.

We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.

We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.

We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.

We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.

Day 2

We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.

The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.

On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.

When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.

We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.

The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.

Day 3

Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot

Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2026-01-27T03:15:35Z

Kruegerkole: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

‘’’2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole’’’

Route (includes part of GPT39):
El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla

Day 0:
After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118

Day 1:
Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.

Day 2:
In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees. No one home as I believe this settlement is also owned by Don Lucho who was across the channel at this time.

Day 3:
Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.

Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬

'''2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''

Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

Camps

Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.

Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.

* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.

<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>

Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.

Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1

After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.

I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.

*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''

Day 1

Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.

We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.

We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.

We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.

We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.

Day 2

We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.

The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.

On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.

When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.

We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.

The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.

Day 3

Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot

Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=