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GPT67 (Dientes de Navarino)

2025-08-20T14:02:19Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT67 (Dientes de Navarino)

2025-08-20T12:20:56Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-08-20T11:28:49Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 5 to Apr 14 / 9 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 1, 1B, RR, Var A, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES:
Though it's almost impossible to choose a favorite GPT section, this may be ours. It felt as big and wild as some of the northern sections, and the demanding navigation made it really adventurous. We would definitely recommend budgeting more time for this section to really enjoy it, and to make the route-finding less frustrating. (I spent at least three days carrying the GPS in one hand all day because I had to check it so often there was no point in putting it back on the strap.) We also really enjoyed Opt 1 to Lago Negro. As a bonus, if you choose to do Opt 1 and then take the CC/BB Opt 1B to avoid backtracking, the rest of the route will seem easy by comparison!

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.48213, -72.66873 (Camp Opt 1 [8.69], in the forest, some wind protection, water access is about 50 m away at the lake, or about 100 m further along there was a clear stream running across the trail)

Night 02: -48.52777, -72.72149 (Lake, Camp Opt 1 [16.2] (wind protected, easy water access)

Night 03: -48.53809, -72.67203 (flat, okay wind protection, nice views of lake and mountains, water from stream about 50 m away)

Night 04: -48.59170, -72.65789 (flat, wind protected, no view, water access is about 300 m away)

Night 05: Camp without water 40.3 (decent wind protection, had a kind of half-corral style wind barrier; there actually was water, at (-48.64095, -72.71988) about 70 m north of the campsite, it's just a little tricky to get to)

Night 06: Camp 49.2 Arollo Derrumbe (most of the site is a bit on a slope, but we did find a pretty flat spot next to the large willow tree just a bit up from the fire ring, good water access on the pebble beach, really nice place to see the sunset)

Night 07: Puesto 53.7 La Pampa (there was a flat area inside the corral at the western side, almost directly opposite the cottonwood trees, wind protection was good, water was from a shallow stream up the hill about 100 m, access was a little tricky)

Night 08: Camp 66.6 Vista Fitz Roy (we don't recommend this as a campsite. Water access is not good, there is no wind protection, if it's early in the season or has been raining there will likely be no place to put the tent that isn’t swampy. We found one dry seasonal lake bed a little below the fire ring that worked, but we imagine that it is often swampy or under water; we would recommend to make this a lunch or coffee break spot and camp a little further along the trail, maybe near the river around Camp 63.5 or 63.6)

Night 09: Stayed at Misael’s

WATER: there is a lot of water

Day 01 - Apr 5th

We booked the boat with Ruedas the day before, arranging for them to pick us up in Bahía Pescado on the 14th (their last sailing of the season). In the morning, we dropped off two boxes of resupply since we were planning to do 37, 38, and 39 together. We started hiking a little after 10:00. The gravel road out is kind of annoying. There was a surprising amount of traffic on it. At X 3.6 there were a couple of picnic tables and a trailhead to the Sendero Altavista trail, which is the beginning of Opt 1 (Lago Negro). We had originally planned to just do the western traverse along RR, but when we saw the sign we checked the wiki, and after reading Volker’s trip report we decided to go with Opt 1. The trail was generally in good shape and easy, though there were a number of muddy spots. The views were amazing and we were lucky to have sun and no wind, so it was very pleasant. Ford Opt 1 [11.5] was easy, mid calf and almost no current. On the other side of the river was a private property sign and a wire fence. The gate (also wire) was padlocked shut, so we lifted the bags over it and then climbed between the wires on a side section to the right in order to not damage the gate. We passed by the buildings, it looked like it was abandoned. We continued onto the lake and camped around the Camp 8.69 waypoint. We found a flattish spot in the woods just above the trail. There was a clear stream running across the trail about 100 m on that was a good water source, but the lake is easily accessible as well.

Day 02 - Apr 6th

We continued around Lago Negro. For the first km or so the trail was easy and in fairly good shape. But after that it oscillated between good to non-existant, open to bush bash. It was definitely slow going. Much of the trail is in the forest, and it is Valdivian rainforest. It is very dark inside and feels like a jungle. Then the trail climbed up onto more exposed areas. There were lots and lots of muddy and marshy sections. It was slow going to work around them and keep our feet dry, but we managed. Somewhere around km 11 the trail drops down to the lake. We put on water shoes and just walked along the bank for about 500 m to avoid all the bush bashing. If the lake level is low enough and the weather is good, we recommend it, it goes much faster. The trail then went up again. Just before Water 12.6 we stopped for lunch on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It was a really great view and a nice break spot. The trail went up and down a few more times. We were tempted towards the end to walk in the water again but decided against it. Looking down from above it seemed like the right call. There were a number of dead trees in the lake that would have been hard to maneuver around. We camped at the south end of the lake . There was a fire ring and the site was set back in the trees a bit so there was some wind protection. The beach was really nice on that end of the lake, and we wished we had time to take a zero day here and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Day 03 - Apr 7th

We took Option 1B up to reconnect with RR to avoid backtracking. It was very, very slow going. At first there seemed to be a bit of a trail, but that ended quite quickly. Nearly the entire route up is a CC/BB the whole way, and much of it was quite steep. It took us almost exactly 8 hours including a couple of short rests to make the 1.3 km up. It never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of work. On the bright side, that put all the route finding for the rest of the section in perspective. There were some amazing views at the top. We camped in the forest along the side of the larger lake that starts at around km 26.5 of Opt 1. We found a flat spot about half way between the beginning and the end of the lake that had a fire ring. There was a clear stream a little before it that was a good water source.

Day 04 - Apr 8th

We continued back toward RR. The fall colors and the light at that time of year were amazing. It was full sun and no wind that day. Somewhere around km 28.9 of Opt 1 we decided to CC southeast to skip a lobe of the trail. It worked out for us, however the area is a marsh and earlier in the season or after rain it might not be passable. At km 29.9 of Opt 1 there was an open field that would have been good for camping and a good stream for water. From the clearing we went CC to RR, similar to Var A, but further south. By staying to the right of the river and going uphill we managed fairly easily. The trail up to the pass was very steep and in sections had scree over hard packed earth, so we did a lot of CC on the way up as well. About half way up we stopped to rest for a couple of minutes. There were a couple of condors flying around. Kasia was about 7 meters away from me. One of the condors dipped to fly by her, maybe just 2 or 3 meters away! It was an absolutely enormous bird. At the top of the pass there is a plateau. There were a couple of small lakes and some streams. We stopped by one of the lakes for lunch. With sun and no wind it was very pleasant. The way down the other side was fairly easy to follow. The valley on the other side looked like it was out of a fairytale, and the fall colors really looked amazing. We wandered around for a while just to explore. About 50 m away from Ford 18.4 there was a large tree that had fallen across the river and made a good bridge. Camping on both sides of the river looked nice, there were flat grassy areas. I would have chosen to camp before crossing just because it was easier water access, but there was a fire ring on the far side. Ford 19.8 was dry when we passed. Ford 20.6 was just above the ankle. We had trouble finding camping around Ford 20.6 as much of the area is rocky, and a lot of the forest had shrubs instead of grass. We found a spot fairly far from the river, but it was flat and had good wind protection, which was good because the wind started over night and continued into the morning.

Day 05 - Apr 9th

We got up early to make as much distance as possible. It was windy and cold. Ford 21.6 was easy, it had a fair amount of current, but was below half calf. Camp 24.6 looked nice. It was inside an open forest and was a place that arrieros camp with a windwall and fire ring. At the Ford mark shortly after, the water was very shallow, but wide. I was able to drop a long branch across it to create a makeshift bridge. The first part of the way around the lake was through forest, but the lake level was fairly low, so by about a third of the way around we could walk on the beach the rest of the way. Camp 29.3 looked okay. It was in a clearing set back from the lake a bit. There was still a fair amount of wind coming through on the day we passed, though I imagine the direction of the wind makes a big difference. Ford, X 30.2 was knee deep but with very little current. Ford 31.7 was half calf with a moderate current. We were not really sure where Camp 37.0 was. It was not near water and there didn’t seem to be any flat place to camp. We don't recommend planning this one for camping if you can avoid it. The rest of the way to the pass was a bit challenging. It was incredibly windy on that side. There isn't really a trail for much of it and it goes back and forth across the river several times. About 100 m before Ford 38.8 was actually the first of several fords. After the fords there were some deep marshy areas. We crossed the pass and camped at Camp 40.3. It was a good spot. There was very little wind there. The wind wall at the site was set up almost like a corral. There's only room for one tent, and the X-Mid 2 just barely fit, but it did fit. We discovered that there is actually a water source there, about 70 m due north of the camp site. The way to it is kind of marshy/muddy, but I was able to access it without getting my feet wet. Earlier in the season that might not be possible.

Day 06 - Apr 10th

We started down early. It was fully overcast but an almost windless day. The muted grey of the clouds combined with the turquoise of the water and the oranges and reds of the trees made for spectacular scenery throughout the day. Despite the descent being listed as CC, a good bit of it actually followed a trail. About 500 m before the trailhead, we decided to do a complete CC heading south-southeast instead of southwest. We headed toward a grassy patch then cut more south, went down a steep animal path and across a marshy field before finally reconnecting with RR. I’m not sure it saved any time or distance, but it was fun to explore. Ford 43.6 was dry foot crossable, we stopped there for lunch. Ford 45.6 appeared a little tricky, but since we had read the reports from Tomas, Roman and Jonas, we were aware of the turn and it was no problem at all. The descent to Camp 39.2 was CC/BB. Towards the end it was possible to cut across the boulder field early and go directly to the camp site rather than to the lake and coming around along the beach. Arrollo Derrumbe was nice and had easy access to a pebble beach. We had an absolutely stunning sunset that night. We camped up next to a willow tree a little ways away from the fire ring because the ground was more level there.

Day 07 - Apr 11th

We were hoping to get to Camp Vista Fitz Roy, but it had rained in the night and even with our rain gear we got soaked just going through the brush. As we got to La Pampa it started to rain. We found a place up in the forest to take shelter to wait it out for a bit. When the rain stopped it was already late in the afternoon and we knew we were unlikely to make it. Reading through notes and looking at topo and satellite imagery we thought it would be fairly unlikely to find another camp at least until km 63.4, so we decided to just camp early. We found a flat and fairly wind protected spot inside the corral on the western side. It had stopped raining and some sun had come out so we strung up a line and hung some of our wet clothes to try to get them dry. For water we went back up the hill to the east about 100 m. Outside the fence there was a shallow stream flowing through a wetland area. It was a little tricky to access.

Day 08 - Apr 12th

We hiked over the pass and then down. There was no issue passing by Bahia Once Hermanos on the RR. It looked like Var E would take you directly to the house, but the RR stays outside the fenced areas of the property. We did not see anyone when we passed. We took Var G. The path wasn’t always clear, but this part of the peninsula was mostly low shrubs so it was easy to find a way. Ford 63.5 was half-calf, mild current. Both the camp before and the camp after the ford looked okay. The one after was cleaner. Water 65.9 was actually a ford similar to Ford 45.6. There was a lot of brush on both sides that encroached on the passage and made it a little tricky. This was also the last place to get running water if staying at Camp 66.6. We were actually fairly disappointed with this campsite (notes above in the Camps section). We would recommend camping elsewhere and just stopping for lunch or a break at this spot.

Day 09 - Apr 13th

It was a cold and windy day. It seemed that the wind had knocked most of the water off the bushes as we did not get nearly as wet as a few days prior. The route was often tricky to find. We got lost towards the top and ended up CCing a steep hill to get to the pass. There was a short little plateau and then it began to drop down the other side. It was even windier on the far side. Miseal was a very hospitable host. We talked for quite awhile. For dinner he made roasted lamb ribs, salad with greens from his garden, and a kind of deep fried yeasted bread cooked in lamb fat, which was really delicious. He explained that the bread was very similar to sopaipilla, with the main difference being that what he made is fried in animal fat and sopaipilla is fried in oil. We preferred his version to the more common sopaipilla. We slept on the floor in a side room that seemed to function as both a storage room and a guest room.

Day 10 - Air 14th

The boat arrived on time. We said goodbye to Misael and got on the boat. The ride was maybe 15 minutes. At the dock on the other side we took the boxes and walked to Ricardo and Maria's place.

*'''2025-MAR-20 to 2025-MAR-21 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We skipped the Peninsula Florida. The most crucial part of this section is the boat transfer from Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamóndez) to the opposite shore of Lago O'Higgins (Candelario Mancilla).

BOAT CROSSING:

There are two companies in Villa O'Higgins that transport tourists across the lake – Amigo Patagon (office here: -48.4615871, -72.5605656) and Las Ruedas (office here: -48.4640142, -72.5582920). We initially communicated with Amigo Patagon, but due to poor communication and unprofessionalism, we ended up purchasing tickets from Las Ruedas (55,000 CLP if bought online, 60,000 CLP at the office).

When purchasing a ticket, you are required to fill out a form, after which you will receive a document called "Salvo Conducto" via email. You will need this document at the border control when exiting Chile.

!!! Although the boat usually runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), weather conditions can play a significant role. We arrived in Villa O'Higgins on Friday (March 14), missed the Saturday boat due to waiting for a package, and the next crossing was postponed until the following Friday due to strong winds.

We recommend starting the hike as soon as possible, as a large number of people travel by boat, and border control can take several hours, if you're on the end of the queue.

A well-maintained road, mostly through forest, leads to the Argentine border. After the first climb, the majestic Fitz Roy appears between the trees for the first time. Once in Argentina, the trail becomes narrower, with many boggy sections and small stream crossings.

Challenges: Patience

Bivouacking: Camping is only allowed in designated areas. The first official campsite is near the Argentine border control at Laguna del Desierto (-48.9996549, -72.8379285).

Water: There is plenty of water after Candelario Mancilla, with numerous small streams crossing the route.

Resupply: There are several shops in Villa O'Higgins. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.
There is no resupply on the end of this section.

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

*'''2025-01-20 to 2025-01-22 / 3 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / RR, RP (Laguna Verde), RR / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left Isla Central with La Soberania (boat ~10 days for inhabitants of the lake). After a tour of the inhabitants, La Florida left us at Bahia Pescado around mid-day. We followed the RR from km 69 to ~km 60.

Day 2:
Continued the RR until km~33.

Day 3:
Continued the RR for a couple of km until the Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde was completely flat so we packrafted it (not engaged as you can follow the shore all the time): great moment ! Continued the RR (multiple easy fords - ankle/below knee height - after Laguna Verde) until Bahia Bahamondes where we hitchhicked to Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-08-20T11:27:30Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 5 to Apr 14 / 9 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 1, 1B, RR, Var A, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

QUICK NOTES:
Though it's almost impossible to choose a favorite GPT section, this may be ours. It felt as big and wild as some of the northern sections, and the demanding navigation made it really adventurous. We would definitely recommend budgeting more time for this section to really enjoy it, and to make the route-finding less frustrating. (I spent at least three days carrying the GPS in one hand all day because I had to check it so often there was no point in putting it back on the strap.) We also really enjoyed Opt 1 to Lago Negro. As a bonus, if you choose to do Opt 1 and then take the CC/BB Opt 1B to avoid backtracking, the rest of the route will seem easy by comparison!

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.48213, -72.66873 (Camp Opt 1 [8.69], in the forest, some wind protection, water access is about 50 m away at the lake, or about 100 m further along there was a clear stream running across the trail)

Night 02: -48.52777, -72.72149 (Lake, Camp Opt 1 [16.2] (wind protected, easy water access)

Night 03: -48.53809, -72.67203 (flat, okay wind protection, nice views of lake and mountains, water from stream about 50 m away)

Night 04: -48.59170, -72.65789 (flat, wind protected, no view, water access is about 300 m away)

Night 05: Camp without water 40.3 (decent wind protection, had a kind of half-corral style wind barrier; there actually was water, at (-48.64095, -72.71988) about 70 m north of the campsite, it's just a little tricky to get to)

Night 06: Camp 49.2 Arollo Derrumbe (most of the site is a bit on a slope, but we did find a pretty flat spot next to the large willow tree just a bit up from the fire ring, good water access on the pebble beach, really nice place to see the sunset)

Night 07: Puesto 53.7 La Pampa (there was a flat area inside the corral at the western side, almost directly opposite the cottonwood trees, wind protection was good, water was from a shallow stream up the hill about 100 m, access was a little tricky)

Night 08: Camp 66.6 Vista Fitz Roy (we don't recommend this as a campsite. Water access is not good, there is no wind protection, if it's early in the season or has been raining there will likely be no place to put the tent that isn’t swampy. We found one dry seasonal lake bed a little below the fire ring that worked, but we imagine that it is often swampy or under water; we would recommend to make this a lunch or coffee break spot and camp a little further along the trail, maybe near the river around Camp 63.5 or 63.6)

Night 09: Stayed at Misael’s

WATER: there is a lot of water

Day 01 - Apr 5th

We booked the boat with Ruedas the day before, arranging for them to pick us up in Bahía Pescado on the 14th (their last sailing of the season). In the morning, we dropped off two boxes of resupply since we were planning to do 37, 38, and 39 together. We started hiking a little after 10:00. The gravel road out is kind of annoying. There was a surprising amount of traffic on it. At X 3.6 there were a couple of picnic tables and a trailhead to the Sendero Altavista trail, which is the beginning of Opt 1 (Lago Negro). We had originally planned to just do the western traverse along RR, but when we saw the sign we checked the wiki, and after reading Volker’s trip report we decided to go with Opt 1. The trail was generally in good shape and easy, though there were a number of muddy spots. The views were amazing and we were lucky to have sun and no wind, so it was very pleasant. Ford Opt 1 [11.5] was easy, mid calf and almost no current. On the other side of the river was a private property sign and a wire fence. The gate (also wire) was padlocked shut, so we lifted the bags over it and then climbed between the wires on a side section to the right in order to not damage the gate. We passed by the buildings, it looked like it was abandoned. We continued onto the lake and camped around the Camp 8.69 waypoint. We found a flattish spot in the woods just above the trail. There was a clear stream running across the trail about 100 m on that was a good water source, but the lake is easily accessible as well.

Day 02 - Apr 6th

We continued around Lago Negro. For the first km or so the trail was easy and in fairly good shape. But after that it oscillated between good to non-existant, open to bush bash. It was definitely slow going. Much of the trail is in the forest, and it is Valdivian rainforest. It is very dark inside and feels like a jungle. Then the trail climbed up onto more exposed areas. There were lots and lots of muddy and marshy sections. It was slow going to work around them and keep our feet dry, but we managed. Somewhere around km 11 the trail drops down to the lake. We put on water shoes and just walked along the bank for about 500 m to avoid all the bush bashing. If the lake level is low enough and the weather is good, we recommend it, it goes much faster. The trail then went up again. Just before Water 12.6 we stopped for lunch on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It was a really great view and a nice break spot. The trail went up and down a few more times. We were tempted towards the end to walk in the water again but decided against it. Looking down from above it seemed like the right call. There were a number of dead trees in the lake that would have been hard to maneuver around. We camped at the south end of the lake . There was a fire ring and the site was set back in the trees a bit so there was some wind protection. The beach was really nice on that end of the lake, and we wished we had time to take a zero day here and just enjoy the atmosphere.

Day 03 - Apr 7th

We took Option 1B up to reconnect with RR to avoid backtracking. It was very, very slow going. At first there seemed to be a bit of a trail, but that ended quite quickly. Nearly the entire route up is a CC/BB the whole way, and much of it was quite steep. It took us almost exactly 8 hours including a couple of short rests to make the 1.3 km up. It never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of work. On the bright side, that put all the route finding for the rest of the section in perspective. There were some amazing views at the top. We camped in the forest along the side of the larger lake that starts at around km 26.5 of Opt 1. We found a flat spot about half way between the beginning and the end of the lake that had a fire ring. There was a clear stream a little before it that was a good water source.

Day 04 - Apr 8th

We continued back toward RR. The fall colors and the light at that time of year were amazing. It was full sun and no wind that day. Somewhere around km 28.9 of Opt 1 we decided to CC southeast to skip a lobe of the trail. It worked out for us, however the area is a marsh and earlier in the season or after rain it might not be passable. At km 29.9 of Opt 1 there was an open field that would have been good for camping and a good stream for water. From the clearing we went CC to RR, similar to Var A, but further south. By staying to the right of the river and going uphill we managed fairly easily. The trail up to the pass was very steep and in sections had scree over hard packed earth, so we did a lot of CC on the way up as well. About half way up we stopped to rest for a couple of minutes. There were a couple of condors flying around. Kasia was about 7 meters away from me. One of the condors dipped to fly by her, maybe just 2 or 3 meters away! It was an absolutely enormous bird. At the top of the pass there is a plateau. There were a couple of small lakes and some streams. We stopped by one of the lakes for lunch. With sun and no wind it was very pleasant. The way down the other side was fairly easy to follow. The valley on the other side looked like it was out of a fairytale, and the fall colors really looked amazing. We wandered around for a while just to explore. About 50 m away from Ford 18.4 there was a large tree that had fallen across the river and made a good bridge. Camping on both sides of the river looked nice, there were flat grassy areas. I would have chosen to camp before crossing just because it was easier water access, but there was a fire ring on the far side. Ford 19.8 was dry when we passed. Ford 20.6 was just above the ankle. We had trouble finding camping around Ford 20.6 as much of the area is rocky, and a lot of the forest had shrubs instead of grass. We found a spot fairly far from the river, but it was flat and had good wind protection, which was good because the wind started over night and continued into the morning.

Day 05 - Apr 9th

We got up early to make as much distance as possible. It was windy and cold. Ford 21.6 was easy, it had a fair amount of current, but was below half calf. Camp 24.6 looked nice. It was inside an open forest and was a place that arrieros camp with a windwall and fire ring. At the Ford mark shortly after, the water was very shallow, but wide. I was able to drop a long branch across it to create a makeshift bridge. The first part of the way around the lake was through forest, but the lake level was fairly low, so by about a third of the way around we could walk on the beach the rest of the way. Camp 29.3 looked okay. It was in a clearing set back from the lake a bit. There was still a fair amount of wind coming through on the day we passed, though I imagine the direction of the wind makes a big difference. Ford, X 30.2 was knee deep but with very little current. Ford 31.7 was half calf with a moderate current. We were not really sure where Camp 37.0 was. It was not near water and there didn’t seem to be any flat place to camp. We don't recommend planning this one for camping if you can avoid it. The rest of the way to the pass was a bit challenging. It was incredibly windy on that side. There isn't really a trail for much of it and it goes back and forth across the river several times. About 100 m before Ford 38.8 was actually the first of several fords. After the fords there were some deep marshy areas. We crossed the pass and camped at Camp 40.3. It was a good spot. There was very little wind there. The wind wall at the site was set up almost like a corral. There's only room for one tent, and the X-Mid 2 just barely fit, but it did fit. We discovered that there is actually a water source there, about 70 m due north of the camp site. The way to it is kind of marshy/muddy, but I was able to access it without getting my feet wet. Earlier in the season that might not be possible.

Day 06 - Apr 10th

We started down early. It was fully overcast but an almost windless day. The muted grey of the clouds combined with the turquoise of the water and the oranges and reds of the trees made for spectacular scenery throughout the day. Despite the descent being listed as CC, a good bit of it actually followed a trail. About 500 m before the trailhead, we decided to do a complete CC heading south-southeast instead of southwest. We headed toward a grassy patch then cut more south, went down a steep animal path and across a marshy field before finally reconnecting with RR. I’m not sure it saved any time or distance, but it was fun to explore. Ford 43.6 was dry foot crossable, we stopped there for lunch. Ford 45.6 appeared a little tricky, but since we had read the reports from Tomas, Roman and Jonas, we were aware of the turn and it was no problem at all. The descent to Camp 39.2 was CC/BB. Towards the end it was possible to cut across the boulder field early and go directly to the camp site rather than to the lake and coming around along the beach. Arrollo Derrumbe was nice and had easy access to a pebble beach. We had an absolutely stunning sunset that night. We camped up next to a willow tree a little ways away from the fire ring because the ground was more level there.

Day 07 - Apr 11th

We were hoping to get to Camp Vista Fitz Roy, but it had rained in the night and even with our rain gear we got soaked just going through the brush. As we got to La Pampa it started to rain. We found a place up in the forest to take shelter to wait it out for a bit. When the rain stopped it was already late in the afternoon and we knew we were unlikely to make it. Reading through notes and looking at topo and satellite imagery we thought it would be fairly unlikely to find another camp at least until km 63.4, so we decided to just camp early. We found a flat and fairly wind protected spot inside the corral on the western side. It had stopped raining and some sun had come out so we strung up a line and hung some of our wet clothes to try to get them dry. For water we went back up the hill to the east about 100 m. Outside the fence there was a shallow stream flowing through a wetland area. It was a little tricky to access.

Day 08 - Apr 12th

We hiked over the pass and then down. There was no issue passing by Bahia Once Hermanos on the RR. It looked like Var E would take you directly to the house, but the RR stays outside the fenced areas of the property. We did not see anyone when we passed. We took Var G. The path wasn’t always clear, but this part of the peninsula was mostly low shrubs so it was easy to find a way. Ford 63.5 was half-calf, mild current. Both the camp before and the camp after the ford looked okay. The one after was cleaner. Water 65.9 was actually a ford similar to Ford 45.6. There was a lot of brush on both sides that encroached on the passage and made it a little tricky. This was also the last place to get running water if staying at Camp 66.6. We were actually fairly disappointed with this campsite (notes above in the Camps section). We would recommend camping elsewhere and just stopping for lunch or a break at this spot.

Day 09 - Apr 13th

It was a cold and windy day. It seemed that the wind had knocked most of the water off the bushes as we did not get nearly as wet as a few days prior. The route was often tricky to find. We got lost towards the top and ended up CCing a steep hill to get to the pass. There was a short little plateau and then it began to drop down the other side. It was even windier on the far side. Miseal was a very hospitable host. We talked for quite awhile. For dinner he made roasted lamb ribs, salad with greens from his garden, and a kind of deep fried yeasted bread cooked in lamb fat, which was really delicious. He explained that the bread was very similar to sopaipilla, with the main difference being that what he made is fried in animal fat and sopaipilla is fried in oil. We preferred his version to the more common sopaipilla. We slept on the floor in a side room that seemed to function as both a storage room and a guest room.

Day 10 - Air 14th

The boat arrived on time. We said goodbye to Misael and got on the boat. The ride was maybe 15 minutes. At the dock on the other side we took the boxes and walked to Ricardo and Maria's place.

*'''2025-MAR-20 to 2025-MAR-21 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We skipped the Peninsula Florida. The most crucial part of this section is the boat transfer from Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamóndez) to the opposite shore of Lago O'Higgins (Candelario Mancilla).

BOAT CROSSING:

There are two companies in Villa O'Higgins that transport tourists across the lake – Amigo Patagon (office here: -48.4615871, -72.5605656) and Las Ruedas (office here: -48.4640142, -72.5582920). We initially communicated with Amigo Patagon, but due to poor communication and unprofessionalism, we ended up purchasing tickets from Las Ruedas (55,000 CLP if bought online, 60,000 CLP at the office).

When purchasing a ticket, you are required to fill out a form, after which you will receive a document called "Salvo Conducto" via email. You will need this document at the border control when exiting Chile.

!!! Although the boat usually runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), weather conditions can play a significant role. We arrived in Villa O'Higgins on Friday (March 14), missed the Saturday boat due to waiting for a package, and the next crossing was postponed until the following Friday due to strong winds.

We recommend starting the hike as soon as possible, as a large number of people travel by boat, and border control can take several hours, if you're on the end of the queue.

A well-maintained road, mostly through forest, leads to the Argentine border. After the first climb, the majestic Fitz Roy appears between the trees for the first time. Once in Argentina, the trail becomes narrower, with many boggy sections and small stream crossings.

Challenges: Patience

Bivouacking: Camping is only allowed in designated areas. The first official campsite is near the Argentine border control at Laguna del Desierto (-48.9996549, -72.8379285).

Water: There is plenty of water after Candelario Mancilla, with numerous small streams crossing the route.

Resupply: There are several shops in Villa O'Higgins. We chose the very well-stocked Supermercado Cordillera (-48.4668002, -72.5610119) for buying additional supplies. Directly across the street, there is a ferreteria where you can buy a gas cartrige.
There is no resupply on the end of this section.

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

*'''GPT 37H (Peninsula La Florida):
2025-01-20 to 2025-01-22 / 3 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / RR, RP (Laguna Verde), RR / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left Isla Central with La Soberania (boat ~10 days for inhabitants of the lake). After a tour of the inhabitants, La Florida left us at Bahia Pescado around mid-day. We followed the RR from km 69 to ~km 60.

Day 2:
Continued the RR until km~33.

Day 3:
Continued the RR for a couple of km until the Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde was completely flat so we packrafted it (not engaged as you can follow the shore all the time): great moment ! Continued the RR (multiple easy fords - ankle/below knee height - after Laguna Verde) until Bahia Bahamondes where we hitchhicked to Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37P (Lago O'Higgins)

2025-08-20T11:22:43Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2025-08-20T10:55:50Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2025-08-20T09:46:03Z

Manouche: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025 Apr 16 to Apr 26th / 10 hiking days, 1 zero day / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 1, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick Notes: A really stunning and worthwhile section. This was a close second to GPT37 La Florida for us. We had great weather during most of it, and there was just something calm and meditative in the atmosphere. The area on Peninsula La Caramela was especially enjoyable. Note: the track files were completely redone last year or the year before. I have used GPS coordinates as much as possible. Whenever km markers are used they refer to track files that were sent out by Jan for the 2024/25 season.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -48.82792, -72.79143 (inside of disused corral just below the trail, flat spot for one tent, no meaningful wind protection, water is about 150 m away)

Night 02: -48.86604, -72.89975 (this was an emergency camp literally in the middle of the path because we couldn't find a flat space anywhere else, so we don't recommend it; it was flat enough for us and water was about 150 m back up the trail, no wind protection, nice morning view)

Night 03: -48.90699, -72.98192 (camping area at the home of Don Luis, covered area for food prep and eating, flat spaces for tents, water close by, mice in the covered area, so we recommend keeping your stuff near the tent away from that area at night)

Night 04-06: -48.92020, -73.05417 (Camp 38-01 8.7, flat spaces for tents, good wind protection, great water access, we really liked this spot)

Night 07-08: -48.94216, -72.96680 (around km 30.6 of RR from 2024/25 track files, inside a grove of large trees, flat space for two or three tents, very good wind protection, good water access, the space almost looked prepped for camping, we really liked this spot)

Night 09-10: -48.90111, -72.77850 (just after Ford 71.9, flat space for two or three tents, okay wind protection, easy water access)

Night 11: Argentina BCP, north end of Lago del Desierto (Very nice view of Fitz Roy, easy water access at the lake)

WATER: We found water easily and often.

Day 01 - April 16th

We left Ricardo and Maria's around 10:00. They had agreed to store the food we had for section 39 at their place until we returned. We passed by the carabineros to register. It took about 15 minutes. The officer filled out a form with our passport info, age, emergency contact info, and asked if we had an SOS with an active subscription, how many days of food we had, how many days we planned to be out, and if we had mountaineering experience. Then he took our photos and showed us the route on the map hanging on the wall. We started up the road, then crossed the Bridge 1.8. It was old but stable. The route was sometimes good and clear, other times hard to follow. I checked the GPS a lot since there were so many animal trails. We stopped at Settler 4.5 for lunch. It was sunny but windy and the space in front of the house provided some wind protection. After lunch we continued toward Port 8.5 Bahía Esmeralda. To that point the trail was fairly clear and easy to follow. Around km 8, just below the trail there was a corral (-48.82792, -72.79143). We found a flat space big enough for the X-Mid 2 just a few meters inside the gate. Water access was down at the lake, about 100 m away.

Day 02 - April 17th

We continued on the route. For quite a while it was surprisingly easy to follow. There was some light bush bashing getting around the Bahía, but once up it was fairly clear. At around km 10.5 (-48.82381, -72.81144) the trail passes through an unmarked abandoned puesto. This would make an excellent camp site. There seemed to be a lot of flat space both in the open on grass, and under trees in the event of strong wind. There was also a stream running through it with good water access. The property seemed to be in a bit of a depression that provided the whole space with some degree of wind protection as well. If we had known about this property we would have tried to make it there the night before. The route led up into some rocky hills, the trail was still generally fairly easy to follow, though sometimes different animal paths made it confusing. The views of the lake were very pretty. There was some bush bashing but nothing that we found too difficult. We would not recommend trying to camp at Settler 19.1 Cerro Colorado. There was nothing flat, the property is fairly wind exposed, and there is no easy water access as it sits up on a plateau and the water is in the valleys on either side. It isn't difficult water access, it just isn't close. We ended up going about another half km to try to find a better spot. It started to get dark and we just ended up setting the tent up right in the path because it was the only flat place we could find. Water access was about 150 m back up the trail.

Day 03 - April 18th

This day had the most bush bashing and the most challenging navigation. It was still really pretty and we enjoyed it, but it was definitely slow going. Be sure to keep an eye on the GPS. There is a point that both Misael and Ricardo had warned us about where it is critical to cross one of the gorges at the correct spot or you have to hike really far down and then really far back up again. If you follow the track files it is not a problem at all. As the route dropped down toward the lake there were some very pretty forested sections. At km 26 (-48.90595, -72.95504), a little over a km before Settler 27.1 Ventisquero Chico, there was a really nice area to camp. There was some flat space with grass and a small stream for water. This is a good option going either direction as an alternative to camping at Ventisquero due to the mice issue. We arrived at the lake around 17:30 and it took maybe 10 minutes to get the attention of Don Luis. He came down and rowed over to pick us up. (This was in mid April when sunset is around 19:00, so I think that was why he was available earlier) We found Don Luis to be a very kind, gentle soul, soft spoken but friendly and helpful. The 20.000 CLP includes boat transfer both ways and the ability to camp at the small campsite he has set up at his place. There was a flat, grassy area to set up the tent, and he had a small shed with two walls, open on two sides that provided some wind protection and also had a table for cooking. He also had a water line from the creek to use for convenience, but the creek was just outside the gate anyways. He initially offered to let us set the tent up in the shed for the wind, but the tent was too big so we went with the grass, and there was no wind in any case.

Day 04 - April 19th

It turned out to be good that we did not set up in the shed. We had left a few of our kitchen things there overnight, and I arrived in the morning to find that a mouse had chewed some things. It seems like the mouse was not after food, but maybe nest materials. It chewed up a rubber spatula, a sponge, my rubber gloves for washing, and it chewed on the soft rubber caps of our thermoses. It didn’t touch two rigid plastic containers with food in them, nor the two rigid plastic bowls that we eat from, which were clean but definitely smelled like food. All that is to say, if you camp here, the shed is a useful place to cook and eat, but we don’t recommend leaving stuff there overnight. The trail up to the pass is in great shape and easy to follow, though there are occasional diverging trails, some which come back and some which don’t, so I checked the GPS often. The forest there was amazingly beautiful, like something out of a fairytale. We really enjoyed just being in it. At the top the pass was a bit marshy in spots, but nothing too tricky. We decided to camp at Camp {38-01} 8.7. There was a clean running stream just a few meters away with easy access, and the whole area had good wind protection

Day 05 - April 20th

The weather forecast for the day was rain and high winds throughout the day so we took a zero day. Throughout the day we could hear the glacier cracking from the other side of the hill, almost like small thunder.

Day 06 - April 21st

We did a day hike out to see the glaciers. The trail out is again mostly very easy to follow with markers nailed to trees fairly often. Once out of the forest there are various animal paths, but they mostly go the same direction so we picked the ones that had the least amount of water in the trail. The day was full sun with almost no wind, and it was such a pleasant day to be out. We made our way up to the plateau and then started across it. We were hoping to see Glacier Chico. What we did not realize until we were already up there is that it is not possible to see Glacier Chico from that side unless you walk almost all the way down to Refugio Militar. After it became clear that we would not get a view of the glacier we started back. The plateau itself was pretty and we stopped to have a cup of coffee and enjoy the view. We backtracked to camp for the evening. It was a great day hike and very recommendable, but if we were to do it again we would skip the plateau and, at the point where Opt 1 and Opt 14 meet, switch to Opt 14 headed southwest to get a better view of the glacier that direction.

Day 07 - April 22nd

We packed up and started back down to Don Luis. It was cloudy, but not windy. In just the couple of days we had been up, most of the leaves had finally fallen off the trees making it look more like winter. We arrived at Don Luis’ place around 14:30. He was there and took us across right away (again, this is in the fall so we probably had very good luck with his schedule and we wouldn’t count on that during the summer months). At Ventisquero Chico we stopped for lunch. Then we began hiking south. The trail was overgrown in parts and difficult to find in places. We got lost a few times. It started to rain a bit and we found a tree under which to wait the rain over. We found a great campsite at (-48.94216, -72.96680). It looked almost prepared for camping. There was a nice stream with easy access about 50 m away.

Day 08 - April 23rd

We did an out-and-back toward the viewpoint. It was a partially overcast day. The trail was difficult to follow at some points and there were many muddy spots and lots of streams crossing the trail. We stopped at the Viewpoint 32.2, and also at the puesto Mosquito. It looked like it would be possible to camp there, though we preferred the spot we were in. We got to about a half km past X {38} 37 before we had to turn back. It was getting late in the day so we sat for a snack and to enjoy the view, then headed back to camp.

Day 09 - April 24th

We took Var D up the hill. It wasn’t really visible for the first half or so, but the second half was clear. The rest of the way up to the plateau was easy to follow. On the plateau it was cold and kind of windy. There were a number of marshy spots. The few river crossings that there were were all dry foot crossable when we went through. At Ford 71.9 we did have to switch shoes to get across. The water was mid-calf and moderate current. We camped just on the other side of the ford. It started to rain some just as we finished getting things set up.

Day 10 - April 25th

We hiked up from the Ford 71.9 to the road, then down to the carabineros. It was very cold but not windy, and the clearing over Fitz Roy behind us promised sun during the day. We arrived at carabineros around 11:30. When we arrived at the BCP we checked back in and signed off on our expedition report. We then applied for our salvoconducto. While we waited for it to come in we set up everything to charge, and I walked over to Ricardo and Maria’s place to collect the resupply that they had stored for us. I bought a couple of breads, a package of cookies and two pears from her. She didn’t have much left as it was the end of the season. The salvoconducto was not coming and we were beginning to think that we would have to camp for the night. Around 15:00 the border guard took pity on us and called to see if it could be expedited. They arrived in about 5 minutes after that. He said that they prefer people complete the trip between the two BCPs the same day for safety reasons, because of “wild animals” (I think he meant cows) and branches that can fall in high winds, but that if we knew the risks and accepted them, we were fine to camp part way between as long as we stamped in on the Argentinian side within 24 hours. We checked out, packed everything up and started back up the road. Due to how late in the day it was, we knew we would not make it too far. When we got to X {38-01} 0.0 we found a really good, flat spot just off the road with a good stream close by for water. Unfortunately the winds were really strong, and Garmin weather was forecasting them getting stronger throughout the night. After looking around and failing to find a more protected spot, we finally walked back down the hill to where we had camped the night before. It was windy down there as well, but noticeably less so. We also constructed a meter high wind wall which helped a lot.

Day 11 - May 26th

We hiked back up the hill and got back to the road. It was windy, but not raining. The road was in very good condition, and there were only a few points I had to check the GPS due to roads branching off. Beyond the sign at the end, it was very clear where Chile ended and Argentina began. I guess because the border patrol uses horses on the Argentinian side instead of trucks they did not feel the need to build a road. The trail was often confusing and had a lot of muddy spots. There were also several ad hoc bridges that hikers had built to get over streams. We arrived at the BCP around noon. The guard was very nice. He took our information and hand wrote it in a book (they must radio in the information later) and we got our first stamp into Argentina, as all the other entries we had made had been through border points that do digital-only. We were considering continuing around the lake, but the weather was leaning toward rain and the next day was supposed to be nice, so we decided to camp for the night. We dropped our bags and began looking for a campsite. Much of the area that is designated for camping was on a slight incline so it was a little challenging. At one point I made a small hop over a stream and when I came down I must have landed weird as I heard an awful sound and felt a terrible pain in my calf muscle. It ended up being a level 1 calf strain, but at the time there was no way I could hike further. It was devastating to have gone so far and end up with a hike-ending injury after something as small as a little jump on relatively flat ground without even any weight on the back. Kasia went and talked to the border guards. The short version is that, since the last of the tourist boats were done for the season, they arranged to take us across on their boat. We waited two nights there and then at 09:00 they took us across the lake. A couple of military guys picked us up on the other side and drove us to El Chalten and to the health center there and then left us. Ultimately we were not charged anything and did not even have to do any paperwork.

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A, Packrafting: RP Lago Chico, Hiking: Option 14 / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''

Day 1:
We left the argentinian border towards the chilean border (large and well marked path) following option 1 until reaching the RR at km 6.6. We had planned to turn west following the RR at this point but needed to go collect a stamp from the chilean border first.
Therefore we left our backpacks at the RR km 6.6 and walked RR km 6.6 until the border at RR km 1.5, thinking we would go faster to the chilean border and then back at that point. Bad idea ! The chilean carabineros wanted to check our backpacks so we had to go get them back (they didn't check the backpacks in the end). Lesson there is: bring the sufficient amount of stuff to look like a realistic backpacker ! We left the packrafts before the border though as we didn’t want to justify us. Chile and Argentina are not very friendly with packrafts because of Didymo propagation
We had to fill in an area remoto permiso for our expedition around the lake. The carabinero was not used to this kind of circuit, mentioning that we had meeting points with Leo Muñoz and Andrea Arriagada Mancilla helped. In the end we filled a 15 days expedition permit.
We went back to RR km 6.6 towards the end of afternoon and followed the RR for a bit more. Easy path. We slept by rio obstaculo.

Day 2:
Followed the RR from km 7 to km 33. Stunning view at 48°54'10"S 72°55'50"W. At km 33 we went down to the lake following Option 3B and 3A (some bad bush bashing) and slept at the Playita (start of Option 3A).

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT39 (Monte Fitzroy)

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