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GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2026-02-17T11:59:30Z

Nimrod: /* Season 2025/26 */

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-02-03 to 2026-02-10 / 8 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2B (Refugio Viejo)/ Isabelle & Sander

There’re some great recent report so we’ll just stick to some short additions.

In general: great mountains in Argentinean part and beautiful forested valley in Chile. We expected busy trails but mostly just met one or two groups per day. Maybe because the first day had a little bit of rain. Only 1 tabaño in 8 days, of which 6 were sunny. Trails are very well maintained.

Day 1 - Colonia Suiza to Refugio Italia, short day. Took the bus at 8 am from Bariloche, wanted to buy some fruit in Colonia Suiza but everything still closed (all shops and restaurants seem to open at 12:30). A handful of day hikers. Some rain. Refugio wants you to reserve camping spot before, some spots are well sheltered. Windy night.

Day 2 - Refugio Italia to osm wild camp between steep passes at -41.17616, -71.64804
Walking the shore of Laguna CAB was almost possible with dry feet, low water levels?
The osm wild camp -41.17616, -71.64804 is very nice, many sheltered places, a little pool for bathing. One other group of Argentinians.

Day 3 - to little lakes 2 km before Laguna ilon
At steep path just east of Lago creton: stay close to cairns. Easy to miss the path. A ‘negative’ sign of two bamboo sticks in a cross also helped us when we took a wrong turn. Between the little lakes where we camped you’ll find many flat sheltered spots, perhaps better to continue to official camping at laguna Ilon, but we didn’t reserve beforehand.

Day 4 - short day to Pampa Linda
Camping Rio Manso is very nice. We hoped for some better resupply but could just find lots of cookies and snacks. At camping vuriloche they had some fruits and also batteries and gas. Although Argentinian Gendarmeria is open until 9 (?) you can only get stamps between 8 am and 6 pm.

Day 5 - long day to Refugio viejo del tronador
Chileans carabineros were super nice. Explained its for them a privilege to stay at this pass and do it only once for one month. Although they looked a bit surprised we could leave some stuff in their shed which we didn’t need at the Refugio. Refugio viejo is spectacular. It was Saturday and spent the night with 6 others from Bariloche, felt a bit like hanging with the locals. Most were camping but it seemed hard to get any stakes in the ground. We understood it’s often empty during the week.

Day 6 - down to Settler {21-02} [92.9/592]
You can camp at this settler for 10k Chilean pesos per tent.

Day 7 - long day to Camp {21-02} [120.0/323]
Termas vuriloche super nice and hot. Just when we jumped in a helikopter landed across the hanging bridge at the Refugio. We’re expecting some fancy tourists but turned out they only dropped off some gas canisters for the Refugio.
Later in the forest a cool tarantula dragging a frog behind.
Beautiful flowering big Ulmo trees! Blossoms everywhere.
This camp at the lake is nice and you’ll find some shelter but the water tasted rotten even after filtering (although our filter froze one night so it might not filter properly…). The spot 200 m more south just across the river is probably with better water but less views perhaps.

Day 8 - to Ralun
After one hour hiking it started raining which didn’t stop till the end of the day. We got soaking wet and the trail extremely muddy but still ok to walk. Also quite windy at the lake so we didn’t stop and just continued to ralun. To our surprise one family was making a daytrip in the pouring rain and picked us up on their way down with their car and brought us to Cochamo where we stayed two nights to prepare for gpt 22. Hostal Mauro (23k) was 45k for two person room and had a kitchen with a burning stove, but not really clean. Hostel bicycletta is really nice but dorm was full and double room was 55k and no heating to dry clothes.

'''2026-01-26 to 2026-01-29/ 4 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2, 2A/ Greg Carter

Not much to add to Stiina’s and Bailey’s notes, which I agree with.

I did this route due to limited time and at the end changed my plan due to bad weather. However, apart from some sections of poor trail mentioned by Stiina and others, it was a relatively easy way to experience some wonderful mountain terrain in the Bariloche area.

Following Bailey’s experience I didn’t pay for a park pass and no-one checked me either.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3-4/5

Day 1
I caught a local public bus (MiBus) from Bariloche to Colonia Suiza. Very easy and you can pay with card on the bus (approx ARS 5,000 depending on where you get on).

I hiked to and camped at Laguna Lluvu (aka CAB). Very nice camping by the lake.

Day 2
I hiked to and camped at Laguna Ilón. To avoid the crowds at the huge campground I camped north of the lake on a nice flat grassy area off the OSM trail connecting Option 3 to 3A (at -41.18572, -71.73849). This is a dry camp so collect water beforehand.

Day 3
I intended to hike Options 3A and 2 but the weather became rainy and cloudy so I hiked on the autobahn (love that description by Stiina!) trail to Pampa Linda for rest, beer and wifi, whilst awaiting expected good weather the next day.

Note the public WiFi is weak/ poor at the information centre, and best/strong at Albergue Pampa Linda. There you pay for camping at Rio Manso (ARS 14,000/ noche) which is located 100m to the south on the other side of the main car park.

Day 4
This day the weather was perfect. I hiked Options 2 and 2A to Refugio Otto Meiling, return. Spectacular views of the waterfalls, glaciers and surrounding mountains. However, until the last section going up the open rocky ridge, the trail is relatively boring, being mostly road and autobahn trail.

Late that day I hitched most of the way from Pampa Linda to Bariloche, then caught an Uber. Note that due to the narrow dirt road from Pampa Linda, outbound vehicles are not allowed to leave until 4pm. So you have a captive audience for hitching. If you can’t get a hitch, buses leave at 5pm, and cost around ARS45,000.

In Bariloche I stayed at a friendly hostel for ARS 24,000/noche. Casa Central Hostel at 1266 General Antonio Tiscornia (-41.13951, -71.29268). The manager is Nelson, who is on WhatsApp: ‪+54 9 2944 24‑3261‬'''

*''' 2025.07.01 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NO/EABO / RR + Op. 2 (Tronador) + Op. 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi/ 5 Lagunas) / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 22N and 21 from El Manso to Colonia Suiza - 8 days total - 3,5 days for section 22N from El Manso to Cochamó via La Junta.
A resupply in Cochamó and hitch to Ralún (El Cruce) for Section 21. 4.5 walking days for section 21 options 2 & 3.

(Continued from section 22N)

Day 4 - After the lunch and resupply in Cochamó we opted for the magic thumb once again. There was supposed to be a bus at 15:30 going through Cochamó towards Puerto Mont, but our thumbs summoned a ride before the bus arrived, though the bus was running a few minutes late.
We got a ride to El Cruce - X, Bus {21} [76.9/64] and when we were stepping out of the car the bus passed us.
We called Miguel +56 9 9866 2101 (nr. provided previously by Dorota) and he wanted 20k CLP for the 10km ride, so we decided to walk.
In all honesty, after the few previous days of walking in a deep, dark, muddy forest on anything but a flat ground it felt great to finally be walking again, despite it being on a dusty +28C gravel road. There were even views behind us of the Estuario Reluncavi fjord and Volcán Yates. No cars passed us on the way up though some came down seemingly with people coming from the Lago Cayutué. When we got to the lake we met an Argentinian couple camping that had just done the hike from Pampa Linda so they shared some useful information about the upcoming. Later a bunch of youngsters came to the lake for camping aswell. For the most part they all behaved nicely. It is an excellent campsite by the lake with views of Volcán Puntiagudo and the water was a perfect temperature for swimming.

Day 5 - A bit of a green tunnel most of the day, from Lago Cayutué to Termas Vuriloche with some openings in the meadows however that’s where all them tabanos were hanging out. All fords were easy and there was plenty of water en route, we didn’t carry more than half a litter at a time. The nice thing about the forest was that it kept things cool while it was very hot out in the sun.
It seemed like a popular traverse, we met 3 guided groups and some other hikers along the way, mostly Argentinian.

Termas Vuriloche:
Ford {21-02} [101.3/351] - can be avoided if you go through the settlers yard and follow the osm trail that leads to a suspension bridge: -41.24813, -72.04719 across the river. Right after the bridge there is a trail going up and a trail going down. Following the upper trail brings you to the meadow with campsite described by Clara. And the trail going down brings you to the river. And some termas? We didn’t go down this trail our selves we used a different one.
The settler (“Jose/ Coche”? - Peggy) was at home and saw us, we greeted him an asked if it’s ok if we pass here to go to the termas to which he said yes, no problem.

The trail then goes by the newly built private refuge - Nana Roth that is owned by a company called Expediciones Petrohue -41.24847, -72.04779. A little googling showed that guests are brought there by helicopter to enjoy the termas and stay at the Refugio, it did look very fancy and a really unexpected out of place building when it suddenly appeared in front of us.

We camped here -41.24555, -72.04866 in a meadow, but as described by Clara, there is an established campsite, sheltered in the forest with fireplace and tent sites, however there was already a guided Argentinian group camping there, mostly older folk.

Looking at the campsite from the meadow there is a trail on the left (south) side leading down to the river where there are a few termal pools, one is built with concrete walls but very private, comfortable and perfect temperature, we didn’t want to leave.
Another more natural looking terma just on the rocky beach, a bit warmer.
But as I said there are probably more termas that could be accessed from the trail leading down from the suspension bridge because we saw people going there in swimming outfits when we took the upper trail (the one marked on the OSM)

Day 6 - From the Termas Vuriloche to Pampa Linda still a lot in the forest but finally some views of Tronador were opening up.

The trail passes Settler {21-02} [92.9/592] and crosses Rio Aguas Turbio twice, before and after the settler there are bridges on both sides.

Another new Refugio Baguales being built here -41.22699, -71.96225 by the same company that had constructed the Refugio Nana Roth. Refugio was similar design, built from the same materials on the outside.

Ford, Camp {21-02} [88.9/802] - there are two streams and both have hanging bridges, but a bit sketchy ones. The fords possibly looked easier and quicker.
Not really a place for a camp. A picnic table was there but I didn’t see a place for a tent.

Puesto {21-02} [86.9/1030] (Huenchupen) - as mentioned by other is supposedly a refugio. There is a small stream right before it with a flat spot for a tent, another spot a bit after and probably one by the refugio or just inside it like Dorota did.

No problem at the border, make sure your passport is stamped with exit stamp and they give you a paper slip (a double /copy paper) that you have to show to Argentinian border control.
The place and the campsite there is very nice but also very tabano infested. Tap water available.

Camp ? {21-02} [78.1/1241] - not really, didn’t see a spot for a tent, like Peggy mentioned too much vegetation.
If really in a need of camp on that stretch of a trail then here was one: -41.23509, -71.80915 - there is a ford and some flat, bushless spots for a tent I believe the spot that Peggy meant.

After arriving in Pampa Linda we went straight to the border control. Supposedly since covid Argentinians don’t stamp your passport upon entering. However last time (2024 Jan.) we had a stamp and still had some issues when leaving the country, because we were “not in the system”. Due to this we asked them if they could do it so that we could leave the country with less hassle. They stamped the “copy side” of paper slip that we got when leaving Chile. Which we then needed when we were leaving Argentina again.

We camped at Auberge Pampa Linda Camping / Rio Manso camping. 14k ARS pp, shower 15k ARS pp, we washed in the river like any other day.
Dinner at the auberge, fast food, papas fritas is what we have been craving. Card payment accepted and Fernando working there was the friendliest and nicest guy in Argentina.
We camped on the spot nearest to the camp entrance and were “catching” some of the public wifi in our tent. It worked pretty well by the information building (closed) making the wifi, even some tables outside for longer surfs.

Camping Los Vuriloches 30k ARS pp, with shower included. Also has a nice restaurant with some healthier food options and a small shop, not really a resupply, but enough snacks and drinks, fresh fruit. Cash only!

Day 7 - From Pampa Linda we took the option 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi) however the actual name for this trail is Cinco Lagunas.

It is a very popular trek to do around Bariloche and we met very many people doing it despite it actually being quite demanding in some places with some quite poor sections of the trail in other. But mostly all the locals that we met had a very different philosophy and approach to hiking which we found very interesting. Just one example, by the time we go to Laguna Cretón at around 14:30, the people that camped there the night before were just finishing drinking matte and packing up to start their day. A different approach, for them it’s a camping trip with some hiking whereas for us it’s a hiking trip with some camping. We should try it the other way some time.

It is a very good trail (autobahn of a trail) from Pampa Linda to Laguna Ilón, but after that the trail gradually gets worse and worse.
Ford {21-03} [50.5/848] - has a bridge.

Lots of people camping at Ilón, at least a hundred. (It was Saturday). There you can buy some food, snacks and drinks (Cash only!). And the prices are quite outrageous, Chile felt like a really cheap country in comparison.
A very beautiful location but I wouldn’t want to camp there at least not on a weekend.

Again as mentioned by others the trails going up and down the passes are not in the greatest conditions. There are some cairns and some blue and red markings, here and there but it is still possible to loose the trail because the loose terrain in some places can be engaging and requires full focus.
Up and down - Pass {21-03} [38.4/1942] (Paso Cerro Capitan) was quite simple there was a trail up albeit steep and sandy in places and it sort of fizzled out on the way down mainly because of the rocky terrain, but plenty of cairns to follow.

The Laguna Azul was truly azul in comparison to Jujuy and Cretón, very beautiful contrast with the surrounding mountains.

The Up to the Pass {21-03} [33.5/1911] (Filo Cerro Cristales) was steep and tbh the trail didn’t make sense from the beginning to the end and it is potentially dangerous due to a rock fall that could be caused by others.
First it goes steeply down through some trees and to a wet meadow instead of just traversing from the pass by Laguna Cretón. Then it just goes straight up through the steepest part of the face. I definitely wouldn’t want to be on this super loose trail, below some of the very overburdened hikers with 6 bags on all sides, that we saw plenty of, slipping and sliding down the most simple trail because they can’t see where they are going. The “trail” for some mysterious reason is designed to channel any dislodged rocks above you, right at you. We were lucky and there was nobody above us, but I can definitely see a potential hazard there. This part of the trail could definitely be made a lot safer by adding some longer zig-zags traversing the face and spreading the people out instead of keeping everyone in a “death culoir”
Plenty of blue and sometimes red markings, just need to look for them.
Down on the other side was way less steep and mostly on solid granite.

And then the Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815] (Filo Cerro CAB) was a mirror of the previous pass, first up on lower angle mostly solids granite slabs except for the final bit and then down a steep and loose slope but at least traversing the face for the most part. We also didn’t follow the gpx but just went straight down to the NW bypassing the cliffs on the other side. Not sure whether it was any more difficult than the actual route.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather and the views from all the passes were just incredible, we missed those, all the previous days being in the forest.

We camped on the west side by Laguna C.A.B. / Lluvu (locals call it CAB and also some signs reffered to it as CAB not Lluvu.
A nice swim in the lake after a long day but it takes a walk to get to the deep/swimmable part of the lake. A very few other campers by the lake. Though the 20 people we talked to on the way there all had camped there the night before.

Day 8 - There are no actual trails around the either side of the lake so you have to walk through the lake or potentially do a very annoying BB. The lake has actually a pleasant, flat and hard packed bottom near the shore, very easy to walk on even without shoes, a nice foot massage.
After the lake there is a mierda trail pretty much all the way down to the Ford {21-03} [23.0/1133] (Arroyo la Chata) after which it slowly starts to improve again. There is a possibility to camp by the ford. The “ford” is doable on rocks and logs.

The trail up to the Pass {21-03} [20.1/1780] (Filo del Cerro Negro) is actually not too bad except for a short but very steep and sandy part just before exiting the forest. And then after the pass it’s pretty much back on normal trails, especially oncce past the Refugio.

No card payment at the Refugio Manfredo Segre, solo efectivo, Pepsi - 7k ARS.
A lot of people on the trail afterwards and with every km closer to Colonia Suiza more and more people were on the trail.

A massive camp - “Camp {21-03} [16.1/1185]” over 50 people were wild camping there, though when we passed there in the afternoon, most of the people were still drinking matte and packing up in a true Argentinian fashion. I can only imagine how much toilet paper you could find in the bushes around that place. I definitely wouldn’t take the water from anywhere in Arroyo Goye stream.

And btw the pipe from the Refugio toilets went into the gully where the river originates from. There are side streams along the way.

Somewhere else in this valley of surprises a bit lower down there was a school group with about 40 school kids that had camped there. When we were passing there, some of the kids (teenagers) looked quite desperate running around with toilet paper rolls in their hands, one guy was just squatting behind the rock right next to the trail. The shit smell in the air was a direct consequence of a poor planning, bringing so many school kids to a camp-out without any facilities.

Even though we thought we saw many people on the trail, when we got to Colonia Suiza it felt like we had suddenly come to some sort of festival. Supposedly the reason was the Sunday fair due to which the place was extra busy.

We took Uber from Colonia Suiza to Bariloche as after the 28 days of hiking (not all in a row) we were a bit too tired and smelly for the bus. It also started raining shortly after we got back, perfect timing.

Overall, definitely a very beautiful and worth doing section. Bring some ARS if you want some goodies and probably, avoid doing it on weekends if you can.

After 27 GPT sections and over 2000km of trail covered over 3 trips in 6 years we now plan to take a bit of a longer break from GPT. It’s an amazing project and truly a special place to explore and find an adventure and solitude in the mountains that’s not that easy to come by these days. Thank you GPT community!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''GPT21/ 2026 Dec,Jan 31-4 / WEBO / OH03, OH02A, OH2B/ 4.5 days/ hiking /Bailey'''
General notes -

Incredibly beautiful section

Killed at least 100 horse flies

When entering Chile to bariloche they asked how long i intended to stay in Argentina. I said 5 days. I read a previous comment saying that you can stay for less but not more than the time you say you intend to stay in Argentina. So I would recommend giving yourself more time maybe

Costs - bus to trail head, camping at Refugio (10,500 ars), bus to Puerto varas (2000 CLP,)

Difficulty - 3/5

Attractiveness - 5/5

Day 1

Bariloche felt like a mega city compared to everywhere else

Bus to Colonia suzia pay with card number 10.

Started after noon. Trail was great up until Launga Negra

First ford is a bridge. All the fords were okay. Mostly rock hops, there's a bridge or calf height

I camped on the pass after cab Laguna. The ascent had cairns going in multiple directions but mostly upwards.

Camp 1

Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815]. No water, heaps of flat ground, not really wind protected

Day 2 - Option 2A Refugio otto meiling

I forgot the pass but I missed the cairns for one of the descents and had to do a awkward down climb

The trail from pampa Linda to the top was pretty nice. I found some water along the way. This was between the ford (a bridge) and the steep incline where the trail starts and road finishes. The ford/ bridge had murky water

Camp 2

Refugio otto meiling

Nice spot, heaps of people. I didn't reserve my camping. The person who checked me in recommended people reserve their campsites or if you are staying inside. There's water here.

Day 3 - option 2B Refugio Viejo

Wifi was working okay for me at pampa Linda.

I got my Argentina exit stamp in pampa Linda.

After crossing into Chile the Carabineros were nice, I didn't check my bag for food, I didn't smuggle anything in. There's water here, tables and camping. They wanted me to check in after camping at the

Camp 3

Refugio Viejo - cowboy camped past the Refugio Viejo. There were about 6 people up there. Agree with a previous comment to get closer to the cliff and watch the glacier. Snow melt for water.

Day 4

Checked in with the Carabineros

Big day walking through the forest in the heat wave. Thankful a lot of shade and water. I didn't see anyone until the end of the day

Camp 4

Lago Cayute [63.6/233]. Water from the lake, sheltered. Very busy on the weekend.

Day 5

Walked to cochamo, caught the bus to Puerto varas.

*''' 2025.28.12 / 1 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 1 (Laguna Los Quetros) + RR to El Callao/ Kris and Stiina'''

(Continued from Section 20)

Day 5 - While we had the Movistar cell service in Las Gaviotas we wanted to at least make sure that Rudy is at his Refugio Dos Condores to help us with the boat the upcoming day.

When we tried to call him the call didn’t go through, we tried different phone nrs.
We didn’t guess it then but what Rudy told us later is that you should write him a WhatsApp message instead, because he has internet there but no cell service.
Don Rudy Yefi phone nr. +56 950 180 447 as mentioned earlier.

So, we googled boat services on Lago Todos Los Santos and we found this website with 3 different phone numbers for different ferries www.lago-todoslossantos.cl/informacion/

First we called the Elizabeth III, there was no answer, then we called the Catamarán (a fast express boat between Petrohué and Peulla) +56 942 623 484 and a man answered. We explained that we want to be picked-up from El Callao the next day to which he said yes no problem and that the boat will be there at 9:30 and that’s it, no further information was given. So oblivious to our faulty arrangements we continued on to section 21.

A lot of the following information we only learned the next day because we didn’t read the trail notes careful enough.

Even though we thought that we spoke with someone who operates the Catamarán boat, it later turned out we spoke to the captain of the Elizabeth III as he himself confirmed.

What we didn’t know at the time but learned later was that - in El Callao there isn’t actually any ferry port or a dock, just a sandy beach.
And the main cherry on top of the cake that we somehow missed was that to actually board the Elizabeth III you have to have your own independent boat arrangement for a boat that will actually take you to the ferry that just passes El Callao from a distance. This somehow very “obvious” information wasn’t even mentioned by the captain of the ferry. However I spoke to him about it once we were on the ferry that next time some extranjeros calling for a boat pick-up to please mention this little detail.

Long story short, we were simply lucky that Rudy himself and another settler from the valley had to go to the Puerto Varas the same morning that we had to go. Otherwise we would have waved to the ferry from the coast watching it go past without stopping, scratching our silly heads.
The 5min boat ride to the ferry cost 10k CLP pp, the 2h ferry with toilets and wifi to Petrohué cost 660 CLP pp, all makes sense.

So once we “”arranged”” a boat transfer from El Callao for 9:30 tomorrow we went on to join the Option 1 (Laguna Los Quetros).

On the way along the road 3 dogs started following us and those weren’t some street dogs they all had collars and they looked very groomed, at least when they started following us later they were completely dirty like dogs. No matter how we tried to stop them from following us they just continued all the way to Laguna Los Quetros which was a bit annoying. People that we saw along the way kept telling us that the dogs will return home, sure. We had this happen before in Armenia, hiking the TCT where we became known as foreigners that stole the dog.
Anyhow, when we go to the Quetros lake there was luckily an ariero who had a horse tour with some people whom he had brought to the lake for lunch. We asked for his help with the dogs and he tied them all to a tree until we left, to later make the dogs follow them back instead. Because when we tried to continue on from the lake the dogs kept following us again, instead of hanging out with the people who were actually giving them food. We didn’t give them anything except some swear words, however we did name them - Chikito, Negrito and Goldie.

We met Isabelle at Rudy’s termas, she works for Rudy and was there with 3 other foreigners preparing the hot tubs she was very nice and friendly. The termas were two bathtubs carved our of logs with a pipe of warm water filling them up. And it was all inside a shed, which is presumably locked when nobody is there. We just did small talk and kept walking.

Rudy is a lovley old gentleman, we explained to him that we had arranged a boat for tomorrow and that we will be heading to El Callao for the night to avoid the very early morning hike the next day to which he didn’t say anything, just nodded so we though all is good!
We also bought some pan amasado from him, a really delicious dense, homemade bread 400 CLP per piece a bargain!

The trail from Don Rudy’s place to El Callao was slightly undulating and took us about 1.5hr even though Rudy advised us it will take about 3h.

We camped not far from the harbor on a meadow we saw on the satellite that had a stream running by. When we were setting up our tent, we heard some people talking. Behind the stream and the bushes were a few houses and the people were at home so I went to ask if it’s ok that we camp there. We talked a bit and I explained about the GPT, the man was nice bus asked me not to disclose their location as they value their privacy.

Day 6 - Cows started blaring from around 5:00 in the morning in the neighboring meadows. The evening before the man said there is a bull that visits the meadow that we were on in the mornings. And sure enough the bull was there at 6:30, staring at us, what the heck are we doing in his field, so we had an earlier departure than anticipated.
While waiting for our ferry to “pick us up” on the beach in the El Callao we enjoyed some sunshine with some, Rudy’s pan amasado and a few protein bars which was all that we had left from food.
Unexpectedly Rudy arrived with two other men and that’s when we learned about how this whole thing works, luck definitely saved us from having an unexpected adventure that day.

We boarded Elizabeth III about a kilometer from the coast, which would have been a long swim otherwise. It was smooth sailing all the way to Petrohue with the most incredible views of Volcan Osorno, Volcan Puntiagudo and the Tronador on the other side of the lake.
There are toilets and wifi on board and we didn’t make any other stops which brought us to Petrohué in about 2hrs. When we got there the bus to Puerto Varas was already waiting - 3.5k CLP pp.

Next off to Section 22 NoBo, 21 (Tronador traverse) and to Bariloche to finish another GPT season!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-07 to 2025-12-11/ 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO+EABO / 21-01 + RR + 21-04A (Packraft El Callao to Rio Blanco) + 21-04 + 21-02 + 21-02B (Refugio Viejo) / Antoine B'''

A section mostly in forest trail with nice highlights: Laguna Questros for camping, crossing Lago de Todos los Santos and sleeping on an isolated beach, ascending El Tronador, enjoying hot spring and isolated farms.

Attractivity: 4
Difficulty: 3 (long forest sections)

Day 1:
Coming from GPT20, I started at las Gaviotas around 18.30 and finished the day hiking up to Laguna Los Questros. Very pleasant path uphill. I met a horse rider coming from la Laguna, who asked for 10k for camping over there. I wasn't sure if he was the owner but paid 5k CLP (it's just a good flat ground with a pit, dry toilets maybe). La Laguna is a great spot to camp and swim in the lake, no one there but birds and cows.

Day 2:
Long day walking on forest trails with tabanos. 2 farms on the way but no one there. Arrived around 18 at Lago de Todos los Santos and packrafted SE for 2.5h until nightfall (barely no wind, clear sky, lucky conditions). The evening light were charming and the surrounding landscapes reminded of many places (Fuji for Osorno, Garda & Annecy lakes)....
Camped on a lovely isolated beach (-41.117963 ; -72.127518), close to the referenced waypoint. Splendid spot.

Day 3:
On the water around 10:30 for 2-3h, a bit of tail wind accelerating me. It wasn't possible to access the last bit in the river meadows (not enough water) and Rio Blanco has too much current, not worth the effort. So I landed in the muddy/woody shore, where a neighbour just left by boat (-41.15470, -72.09983). Short walk along the shore before joining the trail in the forest. Nice walk in the valley, then lots of forest trail, I went eastward towards Tronador and ended up by nightfall at the hot spring spot, by the river close to the farms (thanks for the tips shared here, really a memorable place). Camping ground is perfect.

Day 4:
Started at 12, walked to the 2nd farm and met 4 carabineros visiting the farmer. We hiked back to the puesto together (4h). We sympathized and they invited me for dinner. Lovely company, great memories. Camped at the puesto, free, water available and a little stream for washing. Good news: they just got equipped with solar panel so no more noisy diesel generator as of now.

Day 5:
Relaxing hike up to Refugio Viejo (option 02B), at fast pace (1h30 up). Loved the views (and not carrying any backpack). It's quite fresh and was super windy up there so worth carrying jacket + sun glasses (very reflective with the glaciers). The CC path beyond the refuge, to the edge of the cliff is indeed not to be missed. Ran down in 45mn, amazing feeling after 2 weeks with a 25kg backpack. After chatting again with the carabineros, it took me 3-4h of forest trail to end up in Pampa Linda (17:00). Gendarmería is after the bridge, last building leaving the place. Smooth entry but the bus left (17:00 I think). Hitchhike was not successful for 30mn and I met cool people staying at the camping Vuriloche (~30k ARS if I recall) so I joined them for the night and they drove me the next day to Bariloche.

*''' GPT21 5-8/12/25 / 4 days / Hiking / WEBO / OH03 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel'''

5/12 — Colonia Suiza → Laguna Negra

Took a bus to Colonia Suiza (using SUBE card but you can just use your credit as well).
The ascent to the lagoon was mostly easy and well marked with a steeper section toward the end.

Distance: 11 km
Ascent: 963 m
Descent: 163 m

6/12 — Laguna Negra → Campsite After the Pass (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W)

After breakfast at the hut, we packed and began the climb to the first pass, which offered an impressive reflection of Laguna Negra.
We then continued ascending toward Laguna CAB on a partially marked and steep trail. We did some bush bashing but connected to the trail after 10 or so minutes. The GPX is fairly accurate and it easy to miss the marks. The weather was hot, and there were many biting flies. ( bring some fly spray) We took our shoes off and crossed the lagoon from the other side (the gpx trail is from the opposite side but longer) along its edge and stopped for lunch.
Afterward, we climbed another pass with beautiful views. The beginning of the ascent was not clearly marked.
During the descent, Shmuel and Shai lost track of unintentionally followed a difficult scrambling route. The Route is marked with rock cairns but easy to miss.

Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 1,067 m
Descent: 1,176 m

7/12 — Campsite (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W) → Laguna Ilón

Well marked, steep accents and decents. (Need to use hands for sure). Mostly well marked, a bit confusing near Jujuy. It was an hoilday and a lot of people camped at the laguna. Campsite is 20000 pesos per person. I was told after I paid there is a wild camping spot pretty closeby.

Distance: 12.5 km
Ascent: 955 m
Descent: 1,058 m

8/12 — Laguna Ilón → Pampa Linda

Easy route down, and well marked. The road is closed till 16:00, rested by the river till then. Was super easy to hitchhike back to bariloche. Maybe because of the holiday. Where is a weak free wifi near the visiter center.

Distance: 8.5 km
Ascent: 112 m
Descent: 632 m

Annoyances : the horse fly bite ever through the shirt, bring some bug spray

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 4/5

* '''GPT21 / 2025-12-01 and 02 / 2 days / Packrafting Sobo / Option 5A and Lago Cayetue side trip / Lago Todos los Santos from Petrohue to Lago Cayetue / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This route is a suitable southbound season start for packrafters with heavier packrafting gear that wish to minimize hiking in favor of more packrafting.

Public transportation to Petrohue at the western terminus of Lago Todos los Santos is simple. Take a minibus from the Puerto Montt bus station to Puerto Varas (every 5 to 10 minutes) and tell the bus driver that you wish to take another minibus to Petrohue. The bus drive will drop you off in the center of Puerto Varas at a bus stop where the buses to Petrohue stop (every 30 minutes).

In Petrohue are two camp sites on the other side (southern) of the slow moving river just where Lago Todos los Santos ends and drains into Rio Petrohue. Packrafters best stay at one of these camp sites to start paddling with the first light on the next morning when conditions are typically calmer. Motor boats bring people to these camp sites (boat crossing 1000 CLP / camping 5000 CLP) so packrafters don’t need to inflate the boat for a 50 m river crossing.

Wind typically blows westbound on the lake main body. The lake arm Cayetue is generally less windy but the typical wind blows northbound (“viento sur”). On a typical sunny day wind starts between 10:00 and 12:00 and calms down after 18:00. Therefore starting very early is the best strategy to complete the lake crossing in one day.

There are quite some emergency exits along the water route if wind and waves force you out of the water. Note that most buildings along the shore are now vacation retreats of the rich and super-rich and not the homes of settlers. A good number of these luxury buildings are equipped alarm systems so be cautious when exploring these upscale buildings to avoid a visit by caretaker. If you are forced to camp somewhere along the shore then best choose a hidden spot that is not easily visible from water nor from the buildings.

We packrafted in 6 hours from Petrohue to Cayetue. The best lake exit is just west of Rio Conchas (41° 13′ 40.5″ S / 72° 16′ 0.8″ W) and not as indicated in the track files at the small port. This extends the water route by 1.5 km and reduces hiking by the same distance.

The trail from the lake exit to Lago Cayetue is well maintained.

Lago Cayetue and Rio Conchas is a nice side trip. You can packraft the Rio Conchas from the lake drain 1 km downstream (very little flow) and from lake feed 2.5 km upstream.

Hikers that need a northbound boat transfer from Cayetue may call Eduardo (+56 9 7515 2075). He is a caretaker of the vacation retreat where Rio Conchas flows into Lago Todos los Santos.

* '''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Daniel.s'''

Started at Puerto Poncho, from Entre Lagos hitchhiking is the only way. Plan a half day to get anywhere on this side of Lago Rupanco.

Day 1: Paddling is straight forward, tailwind in the afternoon usually. The hike from las Gaviotas is easy to find and maintained, used by cattle at L. Los Quetros, where I camped (no one there). In summer tabanos and mud (after rain) will be your dominant enemies.

Day 2: hiked all the way to Lago Todos los Santos, trail easily followabel. At arrival (~15:00) wind was moderate at shore, strong in the middle of the lake, made a few kilometers to a little sheltered beach (S 41° 03.993', W 072° 11.689') where I spent the night.

Day 3:
Early start (4:30am) to use the calm hours. Arrived at southern end ( S 41° 13.706', W 072° 16.019') around 11am, then hiked to L. Cayutué and up to the parking for the day-hikers (S 41° 18.052', W 072° 16.309') where I got a lift all the way to Cochamó quickly (to avoid hiking down 10 kms of dusty gravel road).

'''2025-01-21 to 2025-01-24 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

- Road from Entre Lagos to Puerto poncho does not have much traffic. Hitchike may take long.

- Because of that I started at lago Rupanco quite late (12.00). Waves were big but ok with decked packraft.

- Laguna's los quetros and the thermal baths are perfect camp spots. As for 22th of January there is no one , so it's free.

- Water is easily to find on the route every hour or so l. So no need to carry

- The trail goes trough beautiful forest. Can be very muddy if it recently rained alot.

- You can beautiful camp at the Northern shore of Laguna de los Santos. To cross the lake next day early morning.

- I started at 7 and at 8 there were already huge waves. In the afternoon it calmed down. Crossing took a whole day.

- The entry of Rio conchas is not at the first entry but more downstream.

- camping next to Rio Conchas has awesome fishing

- The haucho there said in the winter Rio conchas flows to Lago dos Santos and in the summer it flows to the Laguna.

- Just before the lake Rio Conchas turns into a small stream so you need to carry the packraft (100m).

==Season 2024/25==

*''' 2025-02-24 to 2025-03-03 / 9 days / Hiking+ferry / SOBO / var 21-01 + RR + ferry + 21-02 from Puerto Callao + 21-02 A (Refugio Otto Mailing) + 21-02 B (Refugio Viejo) + RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: I started at Puerto Las Gaviotas. I did not make it to 19 stages because I would like to cross the border as quickly as possible. I found Uber tel.+56 9 8716 2865 who took me for 50,000 clp to Las Gaviotas. I can recommend him. The road was not easy and the price is fair because from Entre Lagos it was 70 km. Then I took OH 1. Very nice path in the forest but a little moody after rain. Near Termas de Rudy trail passes for private terrain. Diana, who is the owner, invited me for tea. She also offers camp for 5,000 clp and has Termas. There also lives his son, Alejandro. There I have met two Chilean girls. They were frightened after passing bridges in variant RR. From the house of Diana, take variant AA, not RR. On RR at point .... there is a bridge. But I decided to go through the river. After the rain, the current was strong and the level of water was till my hips. I passed the night at Refugio Los Condores. Laura, mujer de Rudy, was very polite. She took me to his house, in the cabana there were some people. For hospedaje, cena, desayuno I paid 40,000 clp. The cena was very big and the desayuno also.
You can also buy eggs, bread, honey , beer. When I was in Entre Lagos I wrote Rudy to order a boat, refugio and food. Also he ordered for me a place at the ferry Elizabeth III for the next day. I paid for the boat to the ferry 15,000 clp.

Day 2: From Refugio Dos Condores to Puerto Callao, it took me 1.5 hours, but I recommend 2 hours. Two bridges were very solid. At Puerto Callo, I was waiting for Augustino, the son of Rudy. The ferry Elizabeth III arrived at 4:30 p.m. with a half-hour delay. During the journey, we took and left passengers at different ports. Finally, I reached Puerto Puella at 8 p.m. I slept at Hotel Puella for 40,000 clp with breakfast. But you can try Hotel Natura. The next day, one girl said to me that she had paid 30,000 clp. I was very lucky that transporting between ports had worked well for a normal price, together 20,000 clp.

Day 3: In the morning, I crossed the border of Chile without a problem. I still had three days for my stay. The road from Puella is a little boring but easy. I joined a group who went to "Riggy". From there, I had very spectacular views of Tronador. Afterward, I came back and spent the night near a refugio in a tent. The refugio is private. One person said to me that it belonged to carabineros, and another that it belonged to Hotel Natura.

Day 4: In the morning, I reached Aduana, Argentina. But the officials went at 12:30 on a boat from Bariloche. They did not like me to give a stamp of entrada to Argentina. But finally, the women gave me a paper to fill out and gave me a stamp. The men were impolite. Then I took a very nice trail "Paso por las Nubes". You had to pass some bridges. The trail went through the forest and is very easy. The night I spent in Refugio Alfonso Roca. A lot of people were there, but the views of the glacier were spectacular. The price for a night was 60,000 clp. You need a first reservation for WhatsApp. I had not, but it was a place for me. Payment only in cash.

Day 5: The trail went down through the forest. It was very easy. All fallen trees were cut down and easy to cross, and there were bridges saved. I decided to take variant 21-02A to refugio Otto Mailing, also paying 60,000 pesos argentinos for the night. They had also places for tents for 14,000 pesos argentinos. You can pay by card but with an additional 10%. The views of the glacier were incredible. The trail from Pampa Linda is very popular and very well signed.
Unfortunately, it was raining and there were a lot of clouds, but still I could see the glacier. This refugio has a very nice atmosphere. Because of bad weather, there were not a lot of people.

Day 6: It was a very rainy day. I started very early from Pampa Linda. At the border control, the man was very polite. He gave me two stamps: entrance and exit. And filled out a paper in three copies. I did not make any requests in Pampa. The Paso Viriloche trail was well signed, and the next day was the maratón to Ralun. I would like to take variant 21-B, but the carabinero stopped me because of bad weather. He was very polite. Because of bad weather, he invited me and two other people to something like a house and also took our clothes and shoes for drying. We slept on the floor and made a fire inside.

Day 7: The weather was excellent so I took 21B to refugio viejo. This place is amazing with views on Tronador. Finally I was walking together with three carabinieros, they had patrol. They took care of me. We went a little up after refugio to see glaciers. Tronador is amazing. After descending I took my things and went to refugio Huenchupen at km 86.9 of 21-02. I slept on the floor.

Day 8: Next day very rainy, so I was walking very fast through forest and mundo terrain. Night at puesto at km 26.4 of variant 21-04 close to RR. There were not poblador. We put tents together with two chilenos and two argentinos in house for animals. Water we find close from small stream.

Day 9: Crazy day. Next day in the predicción heavy rain, so I decided to reach Ralun, 37 km to go. All rivers all the way had increased water level because of rain. But only Rio Conchas was demanding: water above knee level and strong current. Finally I reached Ralun. I slept at hospedaje for 30 k clp, there is also cabana there for 40 k clp. The first house at the left. The owner is Margot, phone:+56 9 8716 2865. In shop el cruce very good asortiment. Next day I went to Puerto Montt to take my deposit with food. Bus at 6.50 and last at 8.00. Last from Puerto Montt at 4 p.m, at terminal you can buy ticket at shop number 37.

*'''2025-01-03 to 2025-03-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy

After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.

The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.

At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
So if you want to do this new option (OH03D) it is better to start directly in Villa las Coihues.

I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!

Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.

The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.

Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!

There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.

At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.

From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.

Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.

On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.

Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏

The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!

*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''

There is a detailed report of Natalie and Tomáš from January 2024 so I'll just add the differences/changed things.

I took the formal OH3 so I began in Colonia Suiza.

To get there from Bariloche by bus, need to bye a SUBE card (or ask someone to pay for you with it in the bus and give cash directly). These cards can only be found at the Centro Civico Bariloche in the center. Then you have to go in one of the many kiosko with SUBE in the city to pay and charge it. It was 1.5k for the card and needed to charge 4k to go untill Colonia Suiza. The bus 10 goes there directly from the city center but not much per day. Other solution is to take bus 20 and then an other one. Easy to find out in ggmaps or app moovit.

Untill laguna negra, it's an easy trail, overrun at this season.
Camp at 16.1, close to nice river.

Pass at 20.1 is easy and the view is awesome.

Going up to laguna CAB : there are some falen trees, trail a bit harder to follow. At this point -41,14666, -71,61216 intersection with an other more evident trail but it's not the good one, which is hide behind a log.

First beach of laguna CAB is very nice, stopped there to eat and swim, water at perfect temperature in the afternoon and no annoying insects.

Then steep ascent to the pass at 28.0. Up there, I found navigation a bit confusing. Sometimes lots of cairns in several direction. No trail as it's only big scrambling rocks. Begining of the descent is hard and take time.

Camp at the 2nd camp spot close to Mallin Mate Dulce. This one was nicer than the first. Good river flowing close and sort of a waterfall with a bassin. But so much mosquitoes that I ate and mostly stayed in my tent.
This day was only 15km but feels way more. Lots of elevation gain and loss, slow evolution (and also I had a very heavy backpack).

Next pass at 33.5, navigation easier with some red/blue marks, steep ascent and descent that often demand using of hands (especially begining of the descent !!). I saw my first condor up there, incredible moment.

After laguna Creton, everything gets easier (and faster) : navigation, terrain and steepness !

Note : camp spot just under laguna Creton (with waterfall and bassin) and the one close to Laguna Jujuy (probably a bit exposed if big wind but there are little stonewalls to pitch the tent) seems really nice to spent the night !

The view is awesome all along the ridge till pass 38.4.

Easy descent to laguna Ilon. Lots of people camp here coming from pampa linda (12k/pp for camping). Still nice spot to rest a bit, perfect to swim, shade, dry toilets and drinking water.

Easy descent to pampa linda with really nice views on the tronador !

Pampa linda : restaurants (expensive!), campings (saw one at 8k without shower). Free wifi that worked really well in all town (at least in the morning when not much people there), I could even had a WhatsApp videocall with perfect quality.

Gendarmería : easy and fast. No date in the paper so I guess it's not compulsory to get to the carabineros the exact same day.

Carabineros : very chill, they don't check my bag at all, no form to fill, so I didn't finished all my prohibited food as previoused and I passed the border with cheese, nuts, dry fruits,... Possible to let them things to go up to refugio viejo.

Refugio viejo tronador : long but mostly easy going up to the refugio, awesome landscapes. I splept there in a high windy night, the refuge is very basic but a good schelter.

Puesto at 86.9 is not a puesto but a refuge. There is a table outside with an awesome view on the tronador. No bed inside but could probably be a good shelter to pitch the tent in bad weather. Water in the river flowing just few meters down (not in OSM).

Camp at 88.9 : the spot with the river is really nice to have a swim with large bassins. Only fits 1 tent I think.

In Gaia there are 2 others refugio on the map. Refugio Seba --> nothing. Refugio Vuriloche --> seems more like the house of a settler. The termas are at wrong place on Gaia map.

I did a short day to enjoy the termas and shelter from rain, multiple nice and clean bassins.
-41,24628, -72,04855 : flat spot to camp, tables, fire.
-41,24701, -72,04806 : first trail go down here to the river. 1 bassin just down and one closer to the river.
-41,24813, -72,04712 : 2nd trail go to the bridge (the one in OSM). Just before there are 2 other nice bassins, hoter !!
I was there with a group of 16 argentinians who make the traverse every year, they know the settler, told me the use of hot springs is free !
I saw him the next morning. He sells bread and killed a lamb for the group (but maybe need to be asked in advance for that?).

Then trail sometimes muddy/sleepery but mostly in good conditions even after a rainy night !
Fords of Rio Conchas up to knee.

Camp just after ford 28.6.

In total, it was a very nice section with awesome landscapes, especially OH3 and the refugio viejo!! Took me about 7 days with some short days.

*'''2025-JAN-17 to 2025-JAN- / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We combined stages 20 and 21, starting with food supplies for both stages (4 days). This stage with enough water, mostly leads through dense Valdivian forest. The highlight for us was the view of the Puntiagudo and Osorno volcanoes from Lago Todos los Santos, where you need to arrange transportation to the opposite shore.

Following variant 01, the trail ascends to Laguna Los Quetros through dense forest along a cow path carved into the terrain. At Laguna Los Quetros, there are many beautiful camping spots, benches, fire pits, and a dry toilet. We met the owners of this campsite at the beginning of the stage, and they told us that the campsite usually has a fee, but they didn’t feel like going up that day, so we could stay for free.
The ford [19.1/650] was crossed dry-footed. The bridges along the trail were quite fragile or improvised, for example, the bridge [20.3/419] is suitable only for the brave due to its condition. At the point Food, Lodging, Ferry [21.1+0.2/415], no one was there, so we continued to Settler, Lodging, Ferry [23.2/432], where you can buy breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as bread, eggs, honey, soda, and beer. We also learned that the boat to the other side of Lake Todos los Santos was expected to depart the following day (Sunday) around noon. Therefore, we reached the lake and decided to wait until the next day. However, the owner of one of the boats appeared and offered to take us to the Cayutue port for 120,000 CLP. We eventually negotiated the price down to 100,000 CLP. He dropped us off outside the track files at coordinates (-41.22695, -72.26297), where there is a sheltered terrace where you can stay overnight. In addition to tables, benches, and a grill, there is also a water tap. From there, we set out on a new route, mostly across pastures, visible on navigation tools. The settler at coordinates (-41.25020, -72.25722) allowed us to pass through his property, though he didn’t seem too pleased about it. We rejoined the RR trail at the transition from MR to TL approximately at km [57.2]. From Lago Cayutue, we encountered many people who were out on a weekend walk. The rest of the way to Cochamó was peaceful.

* ''' 2025-JAN-17 > 18 / 1 jours (30km) / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 21-A > RR > END km 30 / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : nuageux
| Eau : rare
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Si la neige ne fond pas, il n'y a pas d'eau entre le km 4,5 et le km 19,0. Je n'ai pas pu faire ma lessive. Le RR va dans la riviere au km 20,3 alors j'ai pris le 21-A qui est le chemin officiel. Le (vendredi) soir au refuge Dos Condores, on me dit que le ferry ne passe que certains jours. Je dois donc attendre le dimanche 12h00... Je n'ai pas compris où allait le ferry car le monsieur parlait très mal et je comprend mal l'espagnol. Bref je pense que c'est très difficile de trouver un bateau El Callao > Cayutué. Le lendemain je suis descendu au port par la derniere section plutôt boueuse, espérant un miracle. Et le miracle était là... un groupe de 15 jeune randonneur (14-18ans) de Puerto Varas avec un guide qui attendent leur bateau... Je suis rentré avec eux à Petrohue gratuitement. J'avoue qu'après la section 18 et 20, et ce plan foireux de ferry, ma motivation avait totalement disparu. Mais je repars de plus belle vers le GPT22. Bus de 12h00 entre Petrohue et la route 225, tentative infructueuse d'auto-stop vers Cochamo mais bus à 12h45. Je n'ai pas pu faire la seconde partie du GPT21 malheureusement. Mais je suis content d'être sorti de ce cul de sac.

* '''2025-01-14 / 6 hours / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 8 / Tomáš'''
While Natalie was resting in Puerto Varras, I took the same bus like last year at 8:38 from next to our hostel (-41.32710, -72.96598) and got dropped at the bridge where Option 8 starts an hour later (2500 CLP). Unlike last year, the bus was half-empty. The approach is MR, no CC. Rio Huenuhuenu does not have that much water - it is navigable, but you will hit the ground from time to time probably. Also, there are some sticks, that are due to narrowness of the river not so always to avoid (just walk your biat here and there). It took me 40 minutes to get to Rio Petrahue, which is deep and wide and while it has momentum, so you go fast, is not technical at all. There are logs and sticks but they are extremely easy to avoid. It was raining and I stopped for about two hours at Hot Spring {21-08} [24.2/29] (Termas de Ralun). They are free and popular (with both Chilians and foreigners) - there have always been other people. So probably not good for camping or washing, but great warm up. They can fit 10+ people. Tide reaches there and it somewhat elevated my boat even though I put it on the beach previously. Luckily it did not flow away. Due to high tide, Rapid {21-08} [25.1/30] was nonexistent. Camp {21} [79.3/7] is paid, I think, this is private land. Without stopping at the hot spring, Rio Petrohue would have taken me 3 hours to go down. I managed to lose my inReach in my transparent dry bag there, but recovered it later (see next entry). Hitched first car to Puerto Varras. All in all maybe due to rain and clouds, I did not find it very scenic, but listening to a podcast and eating strawberries while just floating down the river was a treat.

* '''2025-01-6/ 1 / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&OP 8/ Davide'''

Together with Volker I took Elisabeth III for Petrahue at Lagos todos Los Santos. While he proceeded for the climb of Vulcan Osorno I continued my packrafting trips starting a bit after Petrohue (Los Pollos). The official track of the GPT (21) start back at the intersection between Rio Hueñu Hueñu and Rio Petrohue, and for good reasons. The rapids starting at Los Pollos are locally famous for guided trips and rated at III+, so I don't suggest them for unaware packrafter. DO NOT try if inexperienced.

On the other hand the rest of the river is a glorious enjoyment up to its end at estero Reloncavi.

Be mindfull at the delta of Rio Hueñu Hueñu to Rio Petrohue, there are many trees in the river, and the left-most branch of the delta is completely blocked by a fallen tree transversal to the flow. Care must be given also for the remaining trait of the river.

This route overall represents a possible variation to existing tracks to not have to go to Puerto Varas if passing to Petrohue. While it is a bit more dangerous, it can substitute the hike of the RR to a day on paddling in the river downstream.

* '''2025-01-10 to 2025-01-12/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&RP (ridge) / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Note: I wrote this when out of service without reading the last three new entries, so many things could be repeated, apologies.

Day 01: El Poncho to Cenizo basin; ~14km
After a short paddle from our, "alternative hot spring camp" (see gpt20), we arrived at El Poncho port. Unfortunately like others have said, there is no infrastructure there, the GPT has it misplaced. There is just one vacation home and SWARMS of tabaños. This was disappointing because I (Natalie) wasn't careful during the last resupply stop and did not buy enough food. Tomáš set up the tent to organize our things and I wasted an hour swinging a paddle into thin air trying to kill as many tabaños as I could. I will be having a good laugh for a while when I think back to what the Chileans must have thought when they saw me walking along the road, wearing a neon colored drysuit, and swinging a paddle up a down like a lunatic. I was very close to the skipping point as my body was exhausted from stomach issues that started at the beginning of gpt19, but eventually I came to terms. Plus, Tomáš had plenty of extra food as a back up so we set off around 12:30.
The trail is an old CONAF trail and there is an covered seating area/shelter near the start (no water). The trail was in surprisingly good shape and well traveled until the turn off for the gpt trail around -40.89986, -72.27375. We recommend taking the left fork (on OSM), it looked more traveled than the right and it went well (Tomáš of course cleared some bamboo to make it more obvious, hope it helps). There is also a stick blocking the GPT route at the top when they connect again. The OSM route first takes you to two settler houses, except if you hit the second s
house, you have gone too far, the trail veers upwards in the grass just before the second. After that it is pretty easy to stay on route, there are just a couple of alternative paths that intersect at times. The last one km of the OSM route is a bit overgrown, but it is just annoying, not slowing you down. There is no water until past the "Camping Alerces". If you plan to camp there, you can walk westward ~300m to a good flowing creek that should hopefully provide water year round..
After the camping, it's a walk up a semi dry creek bed until a waterfall blocks further advancement. The trail leaves the creek bed on your left about 100 m before this waterfall, Tomáš magnified the cairns there so hopefully you can see it. Then it's a simple but steep at times walk to the ridge, absolutely amazing views of Puntiagudo (Osorno's evil stepsister) and the the surrounding area. I give the ridge walk a 10/10 for views. We slept (the night was thankfully windless) in the basin underneath Volcan Cenizo. If there is snow and sun you may find water in the afternoon/evening, but no water in the morning/early afternoon so the last water would have been the waterfall.

Day 02: Volcan basin to Lago Todos Los Santos; 20 km
The next day was very straightforward. We hiked up Cenizo , aiming more to towards the north ridge for easier climbing. The peak to it's east looks like a possible fun scramble (from the west!) if you find a good way (without bag of course). There was no snow melt on the way down and like Roman has mentioned the turn off into the forest can be easily missed; -40.95687, -72.18367. The path down was in surprisingly good shape, lots of orange cut marks as well. The tabaños were in FULL force in the valley. They were the worst around the hotspring 19.2. The hotsprings are in a locked shed and nobody is living in that spot, they live a little further down valley on the trail (Sergio?). The worst of the tabaños were there but they continued to be terrible anytime we were not in the shade of the forest. We had lunch at the main hub of the valley; Refugio Dos Condors (aka Laura and her son Augustin, Rudy being the head of the family?). They are formally set up to take guests, so it is unlikely they will ever "not" be there. They have a couple menu's and prices for alternative requests. We had lunch for 16mil each. It was well worth it for my sake because I had been under fueled for a while. I also bought eggs (300pp), bread (400pp) and half a kilo of honey (3mil). Tomáš was overjoyed to be able to eat as mucj cherries from their trees as he could and also some raspberries. They are notnripe yet, should stay available maybe till end of month? We then made good time and got to the beach "ferry" early enough to rest before an early morning paddle the next day. P.s. we almost accidentally went to the beach of the settler to the east of the ferry, seemed like a prettier spot. Also, if you camp at the ferry, there is a large light near the boats/trail entrance, so I suggest camping on the far right (loling onto the beach from the lake). There was a trickle of water that seemed questionable, so our last source of water was the bridge 27.1.

Day three: Lago Todos Los Santos (TLS) to Petrohue - 22 km
We chose to go to Petrohue as we have walked to Ralun last year via Argentina. Tomáš had the idea of crossing the lake and then following the south shore of TLS as it was less distance. I hesitated as I didn't trust the lake, so the safest option sounded like the north shore, but we had a good weather window so we went with Tomáš's suggestion, making one quick stop on the island (a nice stop if it wasn't for the tabaños. Sadly we had almost no tabanos before the stop but after that they followed us to the end - must have killed over a hundred). In the morning we set off at ~6:15am and glad we didn't set of any later. One reason being the attack of the horseflies while paddling but mainly because when we got 1km close to the end we got hit by some strong headwind and waves. Advancement was slow but we made it (altogether the section took us 48 hours). A tourist boat came to us looking panicked but we assured them we would make it. Goes to show that it is true, conditions can change VERY fast and I am personally glad we were not any further from shore. Petrohue is an awful touristy place. Bus to Puerto Varras leaves every half an hour and there were swarms of cars with tourists. There are several telecommunications towers, but no working Entel internet (Edge!).

* '''25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker'''

Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.

Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).

Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.

*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''

Very scenic but quite demanding

Day 0: We hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to Puerto Rico. We were lucky, it took us just three cars and a we waited in total less than 15 minutes. We got out of the 3rd car 1 km after the start of the RR at a small beach of Lago Rupanco, but the Tabano situation forced us to leave the beach at once. Haunted by dozens of horse-flies we went up to the MR road at this point -40,89289, -72,27335. At the last house (big wooden house after last gate on the MR), we found Robin that was really nice and help full, speaks english. She offers very nice rooms in a calm and beautiful house away of the tabaños, has a big kitchen were you can cook. Paradise to rest a night.

In the evening we wrote a message to Rudy, made a reservation for the refugio Los Condores and the hotsprings on the way for the day after.
The number to make reservation : +56950180447.
Camping + hot tubes 12k
Refuge : camping 6k, hospedaje 12k. Desayuno 10k, almuerzo o cena 16k. Everything is homemaid by his wife. She also cell bread, eggs, bebidas.

Day 1: We started at 8.30 on the RR, first hours in the forest (no water! You hear a small river, but the access seemed very difficult), then CC on the volcanic plateau.

On the trail up, we pass throught settlers land, they were nice but told us that they charge people of 5k each when they go by this trail that is on their land.

Ascent to the pass on very steep volcanic gravel. 1300 m of altitude only to this point. Great view on the very close Volcan Puntiagudo. From now on much snow, but no running water. The ascent on Cerro Cenizo is very, very steep, we went partly on snow, partly on volcanic gravel. When you arrive at the summit (1640m) you have climbed all in all around 2000m of altitude. We arrived at 3 p.m. and had still a descent of 1200 m of altitude before us. Very steep down, when the CC ends less steep on the trail. First running water only close to the junction with OH1.

Rudy had opened the hut with 2 wooden bassins at 19.2 (one too hot to enter, the other one perfect, but it‘s not the same as a natural bassin with a hot spring). We arrived at the refugio los condores 23.2 at 7 p.m. and got a great dinner (and two rooms in the lovely hut). This was a really long and very physical day.

Day 2: Clara went back to Lago Rupanco, Volker continued to Lago Todos Santos.

Clara :
took OH 1 to get to Las Gaviotas. Very easy trail compared to RR. Should be muddy in rain weather. There are more parallel trails, some are in OSM, frequently used.
Laguna Los quetros was full of tabaños so I went directly down.

No boat at Las gaviotas to go to puerto buey.
Easy to hitchhike if you walk a bit the beginning of the road.

Volker: Rudy‘s price for the boat transfer over the Lago Todos Santos is now at 150k, which is a no-go. But the Elizabeth III boat from Peulla to Petrohue passes by on the lake on mo/wed/friday at around 9 a.m. It does not stop at the beach! Rudy called his cousin down at the lake and arranged an apppintment at 8.30 on the beach. So I started at 6 a.m. at Rudy’s, arrived after two hours of easy walking (mud at the beginning; can be done in 1,5hrs) at the beach and 30 minutes later Esteban arrived with his small boat. Once he saw the ferry approaching, we got to the middle of the lake, where I changed the boat. Rudy told me, Esteban would charge 5k, it was 10, but I was happy with that, too. On the ferry they took 5k (less than 1k for locals, but again….). It took 2,5hrs to Petrohue. Probably it would have been even possible to continue to Cochamo on the RR. Before going to Perrohue, the ferry went to the Rio Conchas bay, again one person was brought to the ferry on a small boat. It would probably have been possible to get on this small boat and to start the RR at the beach.
But my plan was to climb the V. Osorno.

The very nice guy at the Conaf in Petrohue told me, that shops to rent the gear are in Ensenada (Terra SUR, at the junction of the road coming from Peteohue). From Ensenada I hitchhiked to Refugio teskiclub (close to the Ski station, single room: 23k the night, food). The much less friendly Conaf guy at the station there (150m behind the refuge) told me in the evening, that I have to come in the morning and he will not allow me as a solo hiker to go to the summit, if there is no other registrated group. What a stupid rule! Luckily when I started at 5.a.m. in the morning he was obviously sleeping. Just don’t go to the station and you will have no problems! There were groups - and they didn’t registrer. It took me 3 hours first on volcanic gravel, later on steep and harsh snow to get to the summit. Breathtaking view all the time, highly recommended to all gpt-hikers , which are experienced in walking with crampons.

* '''From 2024-12-25 to 2024-12-28 // packrafting // NOBO // rp opt 2 // Nic, Lukas, Basil, Max'''

Starting out from cochamo on Christmas Day we were able to hitch a ride to Ralún after 8km. Went another 25 or so until we camped in an open pasture.

Overall Route is a bit muddy even though it was dry but very passable in these conditions. Tabanos were mental. Sometimes 50 or so swarm you making stopping for more than a few seconds very annoying. They don’t like smoke or night time.

In day two Ford (22.0/226, La Flecha) was difficult to pass and the continuation of the trail is a bit hidden. After the main crossing go all the way down on the right side of the islet and there is a small crossing to the other side where the trail continues.

After the settler at 15.6/232 (Aroldo) we couldn’t find a way to the port farther down (very muddy and no clear path from his house). So we camped a bit farther down from the pack raft route that starts at the last fork. We camped on a sandy bank and were easily able to pack raft out of the shallow waters the next morning.

Starting a 6:30 am in the morning we packrafted approx. 16km to el Callao in about 4-4.5 hours with no wind. Walked and camped at the “hot springs” afterwards. They were basically nonexistent (would have to pay to unlock a weird house with maybe some warm water). We unfortunately talked to the settlers on the way there because there was a cow dying. They were uninterested in the cow and just wanted money for the hot springs. After setting up camp, the settler showed up and awkwardly asked us for 6000 clp each to which we happily paid because we realized we were on their land.

We then took the route over Cerro cenizo. Absolutely worth it but quite technical with the volcanic rocks and snow. Instead of taking the packs up the mountain we went up without and then went back down and around to join up with the route again. The route down is also easy to find. Be aware that el poncho is a bit of a long stretch of houses and the resupply is not where it’s marked currently. There are a few houses on the way that sell stuff but a real Mercado is further down the road in Rupanco.

* '''From 2024-12-20 to 2024-12-23 // packrafting // 3 days // NOBO RR // Mara, Tobias'''

No difficulties and just a few tabanos on this beautiful section. Crossed Lago Todos Los Santos from Rio Petrohue with little wind in 1.5 days. Camped day 2 beside refuge -41.00172, -72.16788 for 6000CPS per person. Laura and Augustin were happy to sell us fresh bread, lettuce and eggs. Trail is in a good condition (compared to other sections). Met no other hikers but friendly settlers.

* '''17th to 20th dec 2024 / / Hiking / sobo var 1 + RR + boat + bus / Allie'''

I attempted the RR over cerro cenizo in bad weather early december and then i had tendinite at my achilles so took a three week break at lago rupanco.
On this trip i hitchhiked to las gaviotas. From there the hike to refugio el callao is easy. The sign says it takes 9 hours to get to the refugio, but it can be done in 6 hours easlily in my opinion. I took a nice break at the termas, which were open by chance. Its two carved out tree trunks. I walked another 3 km to the refugio. +56 9 5018 0447 this is the number of rudi yefi that keeps it. Any boat information can be asked to him.
The 18th i went halfway up the cerro cenizo on a day hike. The trail is easy to follow.
The 19th of december i didnt do anything because of bad weather.
The 20th i went down from the refugio to todos los Santos. Rudis son drives a lancha that brings you to the boat to petrohue. The boat over todos los santos to petrohue costs 5000clp for foreigners. From there i took a bus to puerto varas and then a bus to cochamo.

* '''From 2024-12-8 to 2024-12-11 // 3 day // Hiking // SOBO // Las Gaviotas - RR // Mo'''
Found s.o. who dropped me at Las Gaviotas, then walked to the Termas which were open (luckily), slept there, went down to the beach Puerto El Callao/ El Rincon and waited for my boat I organised beforehand (80000 pesos) that took me to Petrohue.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.

Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.

She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.

80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.

Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).

Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.

The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.

Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).

Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.

* '''2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian'''

From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.

I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.

Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.

From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.

Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!

The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.

Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.

Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.

{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!

Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.

Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.

Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!

Km28.6 : go through the gate.

Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.

Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.

From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.

From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)

Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.

I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.

Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.

For bus schedule:

10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min

* '''2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: Beginning of this is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is the end of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is an extension of GPT21, option 2.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1740951703077375/.]

Overview (sorry for the length):

Since the mountains of Bariloche are a bit of a playground of trails, we did a variation of mainly high trails starting from Laguna Guiterezz and onward to Pampa Linda (joining Option 3 midway) and then followed the "Jesuitos/Vuriloche" route to Ralún (Option 2). We had a few short and a few long days to make a total of 6,5 days.

For the Bariloche part we wanted to go Lago Guiterezz – Lago Frey (via optional valley) – Refugio Jacob – Refugio Italiana (behind which you join Option 3) and out via Lago Ilón to Pampa Linda. However since I banged up my knee I separated from Tomáš. He went on to do the high route as planned from Jacob and I went down the Huella Andina and then back up via the Laguna Azul trail to meet near Laguna Creton.

Re-supply is possible but expensive and with limited variety at Pampa Linda, so bringing most of your food is advised. I restocked on bread (5mil for 1kg or 2.5mil for half) some sweets (2-2.5mil) and had a meal (9mil). There is weak wifi at the tourist info stand (sometimes not working at all, sometimes passing through messages, e-mails and even non-interactive websites, the speed was not a function of the number of people trying to connect) and two campsites (1@4mil, no services apart from toilets and water and 1@8mil with shared electricity and showers).

Highlights of the Bariloche part were indeed mountain vistas, Torre principal of Cerro Catedral lurking everywhere the first two days, rock scrambling and lagoons. The disadvantages were the slow terrain, (a lot of edging on rock/kitty litter dirt/dust on slab/steep tree belaying dirt) and park rules. You have to register online (easy and free, there is a Google form on park's website) and register in person at every Refugio (it is free and if they do not see you, you can get away with not registering, we only actually did it once). Camping is free but it can be annoying because of the amount of people concentrating around refugios. Officially you are only allowed to camp near refugios and at certain designated places, but given the number of tent places along the route, this rule is often breached. We never bought food from the refugios, but that option is out there.

As for the Jesuitos route (Vuriloche) we were lucky because things were dry and therefore the trek was a lot better than expected. The forest walking/mud tunnels felt like Indiana Jones. The biodiversity of mosses and ferns felt like home (West coast of British Columbia) and the valley settler homesteads were picture perfect at times (and smelled like summer houses in central Europe). The trek to Tronador's "Refugio Viejo" was not to be missed and neither were the hot springs near Ford at [101,3/351], if you can get there around nightime. The passing through the border with the Carabineros was alarmingly easy. They did not check our food (we smuggled a tomato!) and they barely asked any questions, they just took our passports and came back with a stamp (no PDI paper). Don't forget to check in with the Argentinian border patrol before leaving, if it wasn't for Tomáš, I would have had to walk back from the carabinieros because I did not think it was necessary since I never got an entry stamp from Argentina in the first place – I was wrong. The Argentinians made us fill out a piece of paper to show to the Chilians and perhaps communicated with them that we were coming.

Things to note:
-The Terrain around Bariloche is very much alpine-like terrain. It is slow and can be dangerous so if you are not comfortable with steep terrain, rock, edging, gullies and possible snow then I suggest choosing the Huella Andina or the regular GPT21 Option 03 (it is comparable to GPT11-GPT12 around Cerro Dedos or the ridge at the end of GPT08) - all of these trails are regularly walked though.
-The mud: it is said that in the wet season or after a recent rain, the trail on the Jesuitos route gets so muddy that it may be impassable. From what we saw, most of the mud tunnels were very dry so I think it would take a hard rain to make it impassable.
-The mosquitos were a thing but we were only "swarmed " in our camp spot on the other side of Cayute (and we built our tent once for lunch against them). Horse flies seem to be dying off but they were crazy around the Carabinieros.
- Option 2C on the North side of Rio Blanco is not meant for pedestrians, there is a sign saying for pedestrians to stay on the Right (South). Maybe it is because of the ford over Rio Blanco (one out of the two bridges still exist, the first one on the west side) or maybe the settlers are not interested in hikers. There is a skinny suspension bridge over the river at the hotsprings (300 m SE from the ford waypoint) but you can easily ford as well. Some of the bridges on OSM are broken and nonexistent [was corrected in summer 2024].
- we got a hitch for only the last 4km of the Laguna Cayute road, then hitched slowly to Puerto Varas for food and a rest.

The details:

We started by getting out of Bariloche by a city bus number 41 (0.2 USD per person, goes every 30 minutes, Google maps or Moovit [more precise] have the schedules, you need to have a SUBE card [available at bus terminals] valid in all of Argentina, topping it online is seemingly impossible, in theory there are many small shops that can top it up [they are marked SUBE, the SUBE app has their locations] but we got lucky only at the third such shop) to Villa Lago Guiterezz and then hitchhiking to the southern end of Lago Guiterezz, where we started walking along a very crowded beach and then in-the-evening-decidedly-not-crowded lakeshore to a beach at the mouth of Arroy van Titter. We then walked towards Lago Frey by taking a partialy (it is probably cleared from time to time) overgrown but beautiful valley just south of the main route. It was slow and swampy (cca for 2 km/1 hour but had little people and offered impressive views of Cerro Catedral south and it's towers. Through this we bypassed the Refugio Frey and made our way to the first of many passes near Laguna Schmoll. The way up is simple scrambling anyone can do, but the way down was a mix of slow edging and sand sliding (it is probably a lot less travelled). We waited until the heat of the day ended to make our way up the second pass above Refugio Jacob. For this second pass it was easy walking on the way up, but the way down was once again slow edging on relatively steep terrain. We registered and camped at Refugio Jacob to have an early start on the next day. The Refugio and campsites were packed and felt cramped.

I had a bad encounter with a log that morning and my knee was banged up so the next day Tomáš and I split. He went on to the high route and I went down the Huella Andina and up again to a meeting spot near Lago Laguna Creton via Laguna Azul.

As for getting down the Huella Andina it was slower than expected but fine, and getting up to Azul was fast but more involved than expected. The last 200 vertical meters was low angle slab beside a waterfall, which was fun for going up but maybe not so fun for the way down. The rest of the way to Creton and camping was easy with fun slabby terrain.

Tomáš's report:

I went from Refugio Jacob to Refugio Italiano through Pico Refugio and then to Pampa Linda through laguna Illón. It took me two full days. The warden at Jacob told us that the route to Refugio Italiano was closed due to snow (a lot fell late in spring), so I met no one on the route, though I saw a set of footprints that were at most from the previous day. The route is mostly marked by cairns, sometimes it is invisible and sometimes you can see a painted sign (there is little consistency in terms of shape or colour of the marking) but is easy to follow with a map. The climb to Pico Refugio was easy scrambling. There were bolted rings that you can use to secure a rope but I did not think it was dangerous to climb unsecured. It was never vertical, the holds were good. It took me 10-15 minutes to get through this section of maybe 50 vertical meters. SAC 5 or slightly under. A much less vertical zigzagging route appeared then on that went to a pass still before Pico Refugio. From then on I sometimes did walk on snow but it was soft without any creeks eating it from underneath so I felt safe. It took me four hours to get to Cerro Navidad. The gully from there was mostly under snow for about 300 vertical meters. I went down on the snow until a creek started flowing under it from left. Then I stayed on the left side of the undersnow creek or on bare rocks. Lower in the valley the route was a bit eroded and there was even a short (20 metres - SAC 4 at most) fixed rope but it was not too difficult to get down. It was not easy walking though even in the valley, one crosses the stream several times and there are big stones even in the forrest (SAC 3). I took the first OSM route left to Refugio Italiano. It was quite (but not fully) vertical, but easy, I did use my hands and it was fun. It took me four hours from Cerro Navidad to Refugio Italiano, where there were lots (40?) of people at 4 PM.

I continued along the lake, where there was even a section with steps on the stone made out of metal rods (10 metres, SAC 3-4). This part is frequented and so was easy. It continued to be easy until Laguna CAB (though I lost the route several times going up in the forest). I reached the lake before dusk. I met two people on the near end of the lake. There were several people on the far end of the lake, where there are lots of mosquitoes, not recommended to camp. There is no trail around the lake - one fords the lake along its shore for about 1 km, it is not deep. I started going up to Cerro CAB. It is steep and was at first muddy but the route is clear enough in the bush and then marked by cairns on the rocky section (SAC 2-3). I reached the pass when it started to be fully dark. I continued the horizontal traverse (SAC 3-4) with a headlamp but 800 metres took me almost 40 minutes so I stopped before the route starts descending (thank God for the InRreach to InRreach messaging, I could let Natalie know I would not make it that night – the next day it took me four additional hours to get where she was camping). It was hard to follow the cairns as one just walks on bare rocks with no visible trail whatsoever, sometimes using hands to go up or down a a few metres. There is a nice horizontal miniplateau ideal for sleeping on a warm windless night (no mosquitoes!) with plentiful water from the melting snow.

In the morning, I woke up to a splendid view of Tronador. I went down, at first again using my hands here and there (SAC 4), but not much. Mosquitoes during daytime in the valley, which is actually a pass you reach from above. The climb to the pass at Cerro Cristal is clear trail at first but the last 150 vertical metres is a diagonal upward traverse walking on large slabs or wedges made out of pure granite. Their slope is good and I thought it was fun and it is quite scenic (SAC 3-4). Going down to Laguna Creton is steep and the route is sometimes a bit hard to find but it is not too hard (SAC 3). I saw one tent around Laguna Creton and met about six people going my direction to Laguna Illón, where there were dozens of people at 4 PM. Going down I met over a dozen prople either going my way or going up (and then I met Natalie of course).

Altogether, this traverse took me to routes that are not overun with people and are quite nice with lots of views (Cerro Cathedral is a scary darling that has that name for a reason), being mostly above the tree line. However, the route is demanding – you will be happy to cover 1,5 km per hour. It seems many people go up to a refugio, spend the night and go down again, so the aproach routes to refugios are more popular than the connecting traverses between them. These routes seemed to be in quite good shape thanks to that.

From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).

The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).

* '''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

TLDR: Very enjoyable section; No mentionable difficulties; Packraft Lago Todos Los Santos in the morning if you can, as wind will pick up in the afternoon; Great chats with the settlers along the way

From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).

We hiked the next day on RP to wp Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] and stayed the night. Rudi wasn’t there and the hot tubs were closed. It was an easy hike all the way. There we met Alejandro, Sergio’s son, who mentioned that Sergio doesn’t live in the valley anymore - it’s him and his mother now, so no more beers, but Alejandro speaks fluent English, which made it easier for us to connect :). If you want to get in touch with him, connect through his insta @valleelcallao.

The next day we continued on RR, took variant 21-A and camped at wp Port {21} [29.9/204] (El Callao) right by the beach. We met Rudi there and had a lovely chat with him.

* We started paddling early the next day, crossed Lago Todos los Santos in ard 4 hours and went to shore at wp Lake {21} [53.6/200]. We continued to wp River, Camp {21} [61.1/237] (Rio Conchas) where we went into the water again to paddle the short RP upstream river segment and across Lago Cayutue. It was not the best idea to paddle there in the afternoon, as headwinds on the lake were strong. However it’s a short stretch and going back would have cost more time, so we managed, and the landscape from the lake is really amazing. We stayed the night at wp Lake, Camp {21} [64.1/233]. Beautiful place!

We went to the parking lot at wp Settler {21} [63.4/448] the next morning and were offered a ride down the valley by some lovely people, so we hitchhiked to Cochamó.

* '''2023-12-12 to 2023-12-14 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR / Roman'''

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos all the way to the start of the RR. Beginning was a bit overgrown nothing bad but a bit annoying (7km) [in hindsight I wouldn't consider it BB but close before it, still doable and worth it]. Snow stating at 1350m good to hike as soon as you are out the forest. Down the other side: watch the GPS the entry in the forest can be easily missed and trust the GPS. There are some marks in the bark. The point is here: -40.956873, -72.183669. Trust the GPS and after ~100m you will find a "proper" trail (visible easy to follow). Stayed at the Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] [Rudi brought some people NoBo with the Boat). The trail from there to the lake is at the beginning for 5k a bit annoying due to a lot of vegitation (no BB). The frist bridge after Rudi is a bit sketchy, i crawled over it, because there is nothing to hold on, some planks ate missing and some are badly damaged [https://imgur.com/a/piW3AI3]. After that the bridges getting better. Pacrafted the next day to Camp ? {21} [52.2+1.0/196]. Startet Packrafting at 02:00 PM pitched tent at 08:00 PM. Conditions where good. Waited for a window of no wind to cross the lake to the other bank. A lot of exit possibilities there a lot more settlers than on the map. Overall it was a quite day; wind was mainly from west. Got on shore here: Lake {21} [53.6/200]. Trail after that easy and beautiful! Hitchhiked to Cochamó from here: -41.316407, -72.273071.

Overall: beginning a but annoying due to dense vegetation (no BB). After that the trail is ok and is good after the crossing. Would reccomend it even if the beginning is annoying and after Rudi also vegetation but the views are worth it!

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.

The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.

We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.

We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.

Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2022-NOV-25 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR and OR A / Yannic & Mirjam'''
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.
All the ways were in good condition, but sometimes a bit muddy. So maybe not that easy after heavy rainfalls

* '''2022-NOV-3 / 3 days / NOBO /hiking / RR / Frank'''
From Cochamo I walked 15KM on the road to Ralun crossroad (see transport section) Basic shop Minimercado El Cruce at Ralun Cross. Then 9KM on a good dirt road with a little traffic to 'Pass 510 metres'. You could probably hitch part of this if you want. After the pass the road deteriorates to a rough track. Cross a log bridge before Lago Cayutue. Beautiful campsite by the lake, one of the best on the GPT so far. On day 2 I walked to Lago todos los Santos & met Eduardo. He lives at the first house you come to NOBO just before the lake. He was busy & his boat was out of the water but agreed to take me for 80,000 CLP. Other houses & boats there are owned by weekenders who are rarely present. I believe Eduardo is your only option NOBO. However he said he is usually there & only goes to town occasionally. The crossing is spectacular with views of Osorno, Tronador & Puntiagudo.

I continued to the camp at the hot spring. The spring is in a locked shed & there is a basic refuge there, also locked. Rudy came by on his horse in the evening to open the shed. 10,000 CLP to camp & use the spring. If you want to be sure the spring or refuge are open then call in at Refugio dos Condores NOBO. Note the location marked for Refugio dos Condores on Openstreetmap which is used by Gaia & other apps is not correct. The location marked on the track files is the correct one. After Refugio dos Condores you cross a small bridge & on a ridge there are two signs saying Aguas Calientes 2KM. Don't follow the track file here but go down left at the signs on a trail, cross a small stream & go up to a meadow with some farm houses. Go out flat across the meadow with the houses on your right, continuing on a trail in the forest. After 1.5KM you rejoin the track file. This is much easier than the track file route (I used the 2019 track file)

Day 3: Pay attention after Pass 830M, there are a lot of switchbacks in the forest & the route is not obvious. Laguna los Quetros is also a very nice camp but I continued to Las Gaviotas. Got the ferry out at 8PM. This unscheduled ferry does not connect to a bus. I walked out 3KM to Entre Rios, cheap camping, cabanas & basic shop. The campsite has tap water & rabbits but no toilet or shower. The entire route has now been cut back, hardly any bush bashing. There are quite a few mud wallows on the track but you can go around them. Part of the route is on sunken trails & it's likely to flood out & be a mudbath after rain.

* '''2022-Oct-17 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Alice & Florian'''

We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day) and spent the day in the park around Petrohue. They are nice few hours walk on the volcano Osorno, near the the lake and in the forest, and the CONAF team is really nice there (kept our backpacks).
Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

After reaching Cayutue, the trail is easy to find, a little bit muddy but okay for us after a few days of sun.
We slept at the camp # indicated on the tracks.
We arrived the next day around 4PM on the intersection between the trail and the road to Cochamo. There was no bus, but hitchhiking was easy.
We slept at the hostel Arcoiris. It is quite cheap as we paid 15000 pesos per person for a double private room, the kitchen is available and well equipped. You can camp as well if you are not tired of it :)

One another piece of information. The CONAF guys in Petrohue told us that they are planning to maintain and put more signalization on La ruta de los jesuitas. This trail comes from Argentina and crosses the Lago de todos los santos until the Rio Blanco. There you can join the main route of the GPT with an optional route.
Considering this information, it will be an additional argument for Jan to change this optional route to the main one.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Dec-13 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We took the bus from Puerto Varas towards Cochamó, but got dropped at the road about 15 km before and started directly on the gravel road. The bus leaves quite a few times, but you have to ask around for the specific times. We took it at 13, and I think it left at least once more that day. The employees at the different outdoor stores know pretty well where the bus leaves from and who to ask. We camped at the spot marked "camping" near a small lake, it was quite nice, near a river as well. We got to Lago Todos Los Santos around 13 and asked at the first house marked on the GPS. It's situated on a hill behind three newly built vacation houses. Eduardo who lives there came out as soon as the dogs started barking, and was immediately ready to take us across the lake. The place where you want to get dropped of is called El Rincón. We were charged 70.000 pesos like other people have said as well.
On the second day we camped right after the first "bridge" waypoint.
Termas:
The third day we went to the termas. On the way there, you pass Rudy's house - it's about two hours before the termas. They have a cabin which is about 8000 CLP and sell breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as bread, honey, eggs and so on. They also have the option to camp at the termas which is 7000 CLP for camping and access. They have a wooden tub in a small shed, so you need to get the key from them - easiest going nobo as you pass their house. We later found out that there is a second option. A guy who lives in the house right next to the termas has made his own, it's more natural looking with rocks, and it's outside and more private. You have to knock on his house for him to show you. We actually thought it was nicer, but didn't hear the price. He is also a really nice guy who offers trips to Cerro cenizas with great views of Volcán Puntiagudo if he has time. It's a one day trip according to him. The last part of the trail to Las Gaviotas was fairly easy, although with a lot of confusing trails that ultimately seem to go the same way.
Las Gaviotas:
In Las Gaviotas there are a few different options for sleeping. There seem to be two or three different people with cabañas, there's a nice camping ground right on the beach with toilets, and we saw a tent further down on the beach which didn't seem to bother anyone. There is a very small shop in a shed on the beach with a few snacks and sodas, and it's possible to buy some bread, eggs and honey but definitely no resupply options. The beach was beautiful and good for swimming!
Access/exit:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. Puerto Buey is even smaller than Las Gaviotas. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but maybe there are more buses from there. As has been written before, it's possible to walk to Puerto Buey along a gravel road by the lake.

* '''2021-Nov-29 to 2021-Nov-30/ 1,5 days / hiking / NOBO / OR: Lago Todos Los Santos - Cerro Cenizo - Volcan Puntiagudo ridge - Lago Rupanco / Alex Abramov'''

This new variant is not the same as GPT21 option 4: it is easier and more logical. Easy/Moderate difficulty.
Rudy Jefi and his refugio are still in business (the price for boat from Petrohue 70.000), but Camping Las Nalcas and Mini Mercado Rupanco were closed.

* '''2021-Nov-17 to 2021-Nov-21 / 5 days / Packrafting and Hiking / Traverse of Lago Todos Los Santos, Option 2 Rio Blanco and Ruta de los Jesuitas (Vuriloche) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

We started this season at Petrohue on the western end of Lago Todos los Santos. Access by bus to Petrohue is easy (Bus from Puerto Varas every 20 to 30 min). Petrohue is a suitable starting point for packrafters that travel southbound with heavier fjord-suitable packrafting equipment.

Lago Todos los Santos: can get very rough with wind but we had two calm days with moderate wind in the late afternoon only. We paddled 40 km in two easy days. Only few of the originally dozens of settlers are still living on the shore and mostly the rich and super-rich of Chile have build vacation homes on the often steep coastline. But since the access to lakes and lake shores is legally guaranteed in Chile, this should not cause a significant problem.

Rio Blanco: 6 years ago we met a settler from Rio Blanco who confirmed that a horse trail traverses this valley and connects to the Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche). Now we came to investigate and record this route. The well maintained trail includes two river crossings that are well fordable in the morning after some reasonable dry days. Packrafters can cross these fords by packraft if the water level is elevated but hiker may struggle after heavy rain.

Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche): A well maintained but muddy horse trail connects to Lago Cayetue. Three river generally easy river crossings may become difficult to pass after heavy rain.

Conclusion: Connecting from El Callao to Rio Blanco requires a shorter and more wind protected lake traverse (compared to the current regular route to Cayetue) making it an attractive option for packrafters and southbound hikers if the weather is reasonable dry. I’m considering to change the Regular Route for this option and recommend the route via Cayetue in bad weather only.

El Callao to Cayetue: 22 km on direct route
El Callao to Rio Blanco: 14 km on direct route

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-04 to 2020-Jan-06 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

I accessed the southbound start of this section by walking 7km east from El Poncho on the dirt road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco (=Oh-Mr-V@20-0a-#001). From settlers Sergio and Sandro, I learned that Esteban is an alternative to Rudy for crossing Lago Todos los Santos. Esteban was able to take me immediately, whereas around the same time Linda (see below) unfortunately had to wait a couple of days. My experience of the rest of section was similar to others’.

* '''2020-Jan-03 to 2020-Jan-06 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

Starting on the beach of the North shore of Lago Rupanco (arriving from GPT20). Waypoint in Las Gaviotas Food and Lodging is great! Nelly prepared me a big glass of fresh raspberry juice.

Trail to Lago Todos Los Santos is easy and very nice. Only problem = the horse flies that loved me and I had at least 50 around me!

Stop at Las Termas! Beside the cold river, you will find a cabana with 2 bath tubes carved in wood full of hot thermal water. Amazing to camp and rest here.

Next house you will see on the trail is the one of Sergio. Very nice guy. He makes artisanal beer if you want to try one of them!

Then, as mentioned by Martin, in Refugio Dos cóndores, you can ask for the boat transfer of Lago Todos Los Santos to Rudy Jefi. 80000 CLP. I did and had to wait 2 days before crossing.

Other possibility for the boat transfer : when you arrive on the shore of Lago Todos Los Santos, ask the last house on the beach (waypoint = Settler) for Esteban. Same price 80000 CLP but you won't have necessarily to wait cause he seems to be more available than Rudy. Very nice man who offered me food and Lodging before I could cross the lake with Rudy! Say hello from me if you see him!!!

Between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Cayutué, trail not maintained for about 2 kilometers. Easiest way to overcome the obstacles is to go on the left in the open fields and then go back on the track. Not that difficult but expect to be slow.

Then, after Lago Cayutué, no problem. Easy Hitchiki'g to Cochaml where you will find everything to resupply. Very good accommodation = Patagonia Nativa!

* '''2019-DEC-23 to 2019-DEC-24 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Martín Lizondo'''

Trail perfectly walkable. Ask Rudy Yefi in Dos Condores for boat transfer to Pto. Cayuthue (CLP 80.000). After crossing Lago de Todos los Santos the minor road finishes in a 1 km unmantained trail. After 1 km the trail becomes opened and it gets better as you aproach to Laguna Cayuthue. River crossings are easy, less than knee level. From Ralun there’s a bus stop to Cochamó or Pto. Montt.

* '''2019-OCT-07 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

Refugio Las Termas is a great spot to camp out. Beside the cold river, the hot springs and the fire in the refugio are very nice after a hiking day.

* '''2019-NOV-01 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

The part between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todo Los Santos is a bit tricky. The last winter(s?) damaged the trail a lot. Rivercrossings are up to knee deep and there is a lot of trees and debris on the trail. In wide parts it is easyer to walk to the right or left of it. Also at one point it is likely that you have to jump/crawl some barbed wire to get around some fallen trees. In some parts it is bush bashing. Expect to be slow in this part.

The river crossing south of Lago Cayutué is easier a little bit further south than indicated by the track files. There is a tree as a bridge.

* '''2019-OCT-30 to 2019-NOV-04 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR from one km east of Ralun / Sophie & Hendrik'''

First day we camped at Lago Cayutué. Second day (to Lago Todos Los Santos) we had bad weather and were a lot slower than expected. (The trail is very damaged in this part, see recent alerts.) Due to health issues we stoped here and went to Puerto Varas for some days. We reentered the trail and only looked for a goat free campsite on our first day back (some 50min of walking). The next stops before we made it to the end of the section were Refugio Las Termas (we highly recommend to take a bath here) and Laguna Los Quetros.

What we liked: Very nice woods, beautiful lakes, very friendly and sympathetic people, crossing Todos Los Santos in an open boat in very heavy rain was harsh but beautiful, the termas, funny animals on the way.

What we did not like so much: In very long parts extremely muddy (probably depends on the season), the trail conditions between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todos Los Santos (which forced us to crawl beneath barbed wire).

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Shopping: Food
Cochamó: Possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but expensive. Some restaurants and many housing options.
Minimercado El Cruce at junction with the gravel road in Ralun, very basic. They have drinks, probably wine & possibly pasta.
There is a kiosk in Las Gaviotas by the beach with basic snacks & drinks but its opening hours are irregular.
On the road 1KM before Ralun NOBO there is a food truck but it only opens in the evenings after 5PM & may be closed in low season.
There are no other resupply options along the road Cochamo-Ralun although there are cabanas about every 4KM, some may provide food if you stay there.

*Services: Laundry
A local woman offers a laundry service from her home a few houses down a side street from the main road in Cochamó.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is nice camping at the small, scenic Laguna Los Quetros (Km6) near the northern start of the section. At the highly recommended Las Termas, around Km13, there is a small cabana with bath tubs carved of wood and full of hot thermal water. Settlers along the trail are interesting and welcoming.

*2022 / Yannic & Mirjam
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m.
(...)
We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted.

=Transport to and from Route=

*Southbound and northbound hiking is feasible and recommended. It may be easier to arrange a southbound than a northbound boat crossing of Lago Todos de Los Santos.

*2023 December / Lauren & Sebastian
Southbound from Entre Lagos to Las Gaviotas:

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to intersection south of Lago Rupanco, from there we continued to hitchhike for a bit, but eventually a bus came (around 3:30 pm, CLP 1500 per person, I’m not sure where started though…) that brought us to Puerto Poncho, from there we took the ferry to Las Gaviotas (4:30 pm, CLP200 per person)

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals.

*2022 / Alice & Florian
We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day).Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

*Access to Start

Northbound:
The bus leaves Puerto Montt main bus terminal (07:45, 12:00, 3:30PM & 5PM on weekdays, runs on weekends also but weekend schedule may differ) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada & Ralun to Cochamó. Get off at Ralun crossroads (intersection with a small gravel road near Minimercado EL Cruce) if you don`t want to walk 15KM on the road from Cochamo to Ralun.

Southbound:
Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday 7:00 & 16:30 Wednesday 2:30 PM, Friday 7:00 & 16:30, Sunday 15:00. Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus. Ferry Puerto Buey-Las Gaviotas Monday or Tuesday 8:00 & 17:30, Wednesday 15:30, Friday 8:00 & 17:30, Sunday 16:00. A bus coming from Osorno outside Terminal Rural goes to Puerto Buey to connect with the ferry on operational days, timetable not known. Ask at info. desk in Osorno Terminal Rural. No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
In addition to accessing through GPT20, it is possible to take private transportation on the road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco and walk the final 5-7km to the northern start point of GPT21.

*Return from Finish

Northbound:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but there are more busses from there.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT21 - Lago Todos Los Santos]]

=Images=

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2026-02-17T11:58:12Z

Nimrod: /* Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-02-03 to 2026-02-10 / 8 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2B (Refugio Viejo)/ Isabelle & Sander

There’re some great recent report so we’ll just stick to some short additions.

In general: great mountains in Argentinean part and beautiful forested valley in Chile. We expected busy trails but mostly just met one or two groups per day. Maybe because the first day had a little bit of rain. Only 1 tabaño in 8 days, of which 6 were sunny. Trails are very well maintained.

Day 1 - Colonia Suiza to Refugio Italia, short day. Took the bus at 8 am from Bariloche, wanted to buy some fruit in Colonia Suiza but everything still closed (all shops and restaurants seem to open at 12:30). A handful of day hikers. Some rain. Refugio wants you to reserve camping spot before, some spots are well sheltered. Windy night.

Day 2 - Refugio Italia to osm wild camp between steep passes at -41.17616, -71.64804
Walking the shore of Laguna CAB was almost possible with dry feet, low water levels?
The osm wild camp -41.17616, -71.64804 is very nice, many sheltered places, a little pool for bathing. One other group of Argentinians.

Day 3 - to little lakes 2 km before Laguna ilon
At steep path just east of Lago creton: stay close to cairns. Easy to miss the path. A ‘negative’ sign of two bamboo sticks in a cross also helped us when we took a wrong turn. Between the little lakes where we camped you’ll find many flat sheltered spots, perhaps better to continue to official camping at laguna Ilon, but we didn’t reserve beforehand.

Day 4 - short day to Pampa Linda
Camping Rio Manso is very nice. We hoped for some better resupply but could just find lots of cookies and snacks. At camping vuriloche they had some fruits and also batteries and gas. Although Argentinian Gendarmeria is open until 9 (?) you can only get stamps between 8 am and 6 pm.

Day 5 - long day to Refugio viejo del tronador
Chileans carabineros were super nice. Explained its for them a privilege to stay at this pass and do it only once for one month. Although they looked a bit surprised we could leave some stuff in their shed which we didn’t need at the Refugio. Refugio viejo is spectacular. It was Saturday and spent the night with 6 others from Bariloche, felt a bit like hanging with the locals. Most were camping but it seemed hard to get any stakes in the ground. We understood it’s often empty during the week.

Day 6 - down to Settler {21-02} [92.9/592]
You can camp at this settler for 10k Chilean pesos per tent.

Day 7 - long day to Camp {21-02} [120.0/323]
Termas vuriloche super nice and hot. Just when we jumped in a helikopter landed across the hanging bridge at the Refugio. We’re expecting some fancy tourists but turned out they only dropped off some gas canisters for the Refugio.
Later in the forest a cool tarantula dragging a frog behind.
Beautiful flowering big Ulmo trees! Blossoms everywhere.
This camp at the lake is nice and you’ll find some shelter but the water tasted rotten even after filtering (although our filter froze one night so it might not filter properly…). The spot 200 m more south just across the river is probably with better water but less views perhaps.

Day 8 - to Ralun
After one hour hiking it started raining which didn’t stop till the end of the day. We got soaking wet and the trail extremely muddy but still ok to walk. Also quite windy at the lake so we didn’t stop and just continued to ralun. To our surprise one family was making a daytrip in the pouring rain and picked us up on their way down with their car and brought us to Cochamo where we stayed two nights to prepare for gpt 22. Hostal Mauro (23k) was 45k for two person room and had a kitchen with a burning stove, but not really clean. Hostel bicycletta is really nice but dorm was full and double room was 55k and no heating to dry clothes.

'''2026-01-26 to 2026-01-29/ 4 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2, 2A/ Greg Carter

Not much to add to Stiina’s and Bailey’s notes, which I agree with.

I did this route due to limited time and at the end changed my plan due to bad weather. However, apart from some sections of poor trail mentioned by Stiina and others, it was a relatively easy way to experience some wonderful mountain terrain in the Bariloche area.

Following Bailey’s experience I didn’t pay for a park pass and no-one checked me either.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3-4/5

Day 1
I caught a local public bus (MiBus) from Bariloche to Colonia Suiza. Very easy and you can pay with card on the bus (approx ARS 5,000 depending on where you get on).

I hiked to and camped at Laguna Lluvu (aka CAB). Very nice camping by the lake.

Day 2
I hiked to and camped at Laguna Ilón. To avoid the crowds at the huge campground I camped north of the lake on a nice flat grassy area off the OSM trail connecting Option 3 to 3A (at -41.18572, -71.73849). This is a dry camp so collect water beforehand.

Day 3
I intended to hike Options 3A and 2 but the weather became rainy and cloudy so I hiked on the autobahn (love that description by Stiina!) trail to Pampa Linda for rest, beer and wifi, whilst awaiting expected good weather the next day.

Note the public WiFi is weak/ poor at the information centre, and best/strong at Albergue Pampa Linda. There you pay for camping at Rio Manso (ARS 14,000/ noche) which is located 100m to the south on the other side of the main car park.

Day 4
This day the weather was perfect. I hiked Options 2 and 2A to Refugio Otto Meiling, return. Spectacular views of the waterfalls, glaciers and surrounding mountains. However, until the last section going up the open rocky ridge, the trail is relatively boring, being mostly road and autobahn trail.

Late that day I hitched most of the way from Pampa Linda to Bariloche, then caught an Uber. Note that due to the narrow dirt road from Pampa Linda, outbound vehicles are not allowed to leave until 4pm. So you have a captive audience for hitching. If you can’t get a hitch, buses leave at 5pm, and cost around ARS45,000.

In Bariloche I stayed at a friendly hostel for ARS 24,000/noche. Casa Central Hostel at 1266 General Antonio Tiscornia (-41.13951, -71.29268). The manager is Nelson, who is on WhatsApp: ‪+54 9 2944 24‑3261‬'''

*''' 2025.07.01 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NO/EABO / RR + Op. 2 (Tronador) + Op. 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi/ 5 Lagunas) / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 22N and 21 from El Manso to Colonia Suiza - 8 days total - 3,5 days for section 22N from El Manso to Cochamó via La Junta.
A resupply in Cochamó and hitch to Ralún (El Cruce) for Section 21. 4.5 walking days for section 21 options 2 & 3.

(Continued from section 22N)

Day 4 - After the lunch and resupply in Cochamó we opted for the magic thumb once again. There was supposed to be a bus at 15:30 going through Cochamó towards Puerto Mont, but our thumbs summoned a ride before the bus arrived, though the bus was running a few minutes late.
We got a ride to El Cruce - X, Bus {21} [76.9/64] and when we were stepping out of the car the bus passed us.
We called Miguel +56 9 9866 2101 (nr. provided previously by Dorota) and he wanted 20k CLP for the 10km ride, so we decided to walk.
In all honesty, after the few previous days of walking in a deep, dark, muddy forest on anything but a flat ground it felt great to finally be walking again, despite it being on a dusty +28C gravel road. There were even views behind us of the Estuario Reluncavi fjord and Volcán Yates. No cars passed us on the way up though some came down seemingly with people coming from the Lago Cayutué. When we got to the lake we met an Argentinian couple camping that had just done the hike from Pampa Linda so they shared some useful information about the upcoming. Later a bunch of youngsters came to the lake for camping aswell. For the most part they all behaved nicely. It is an excellent campsite by the lake with views of Volcán Puntiagudo and the water was a perfect temperature for swimming.

Day 5 - A bit of a green tunnel most of the day, from Lago Cayutué to Termas Vuriloche with some openings in the meadows however that’s where all them tabanos were hanging out. All fords were easy and there was plenty of water en route, we didn’t carry more than half a litter at a time. The nice thing about the forest was that it kept things cool while it was very hot out in the sun.
It seemed like a popular traverse, we met 3 guided groups and some other hikers along the way, mostly Argentinian.

Termas Vuriloche:
Ford {21-02} [101.3/351] - can be avoided if you go through the settlers yard and follow the osm trail that leads to a suspension bridge: -41.24813, -72.04719 across the river. Right after the bridge there is a trail going up and a trail going down. Following the upper trail brings you to the meadow with campsite described by Clara. And the trail going down brings you to the river. And some termas? We didn’t go down this trail our selves we used a different one.
The settler (“Jose/ Coche”? - Peggy) was at home and saw us, we greeted him an asked if it’s ok if we pass here to go to the termas to which he said yes, no problem.

The trail then goes by the newly built private refuge - Nana Roth that is owned by a company called Expediciones Petrohue -41.24847, -72.04779. A little googling showed that guests are brought there by helicopter to enjoy the termas and stay at the Refugio, it did look very fancy and a really unexpected out of place building when it suddenly appeared in front of us.

We camped here -41.24555, -72.04866 in a meadow, but as described by Clara, there is an established campsite, sheltered in the forest with fireplace and tent sites, however there was already a guided Argentinian group camping there, mostly older folk.

Looking at the campsite from the meadow there is a trail on the left (south) side leading down to the river where there are a few termal pools, one is built with concrete walls but very private, comfortable and perfect temperature, we didn’t want to leave.
Another more natural looking terma just on the rocky beach, a bit warmer.
But as I said there are probably more termas that could be accessed from the trail leading down from the suspension bridge because we saw people going there in swimming outfits when we took the upper trail (the one marked on the OSM)

Day 6 - From the Termas Vuriloche to Pampa Linda still a lot in the forest but finally some views of Tronador were opening up.

The trail passes Settler {21-02} [92.9/592] and crosses Rio Aguas Turbio twice, before and after the settler there are bridges on both sides.

Another new Refugio Baguales being built here -41.22699, -71.96225 by the same company that had constructed the Refugio Nana Roth. Refugio was similar design, built from the same materials on the outside.

Ford, Camp {21-02} [88.9/802] - there are two streams and both have hanging bridges, but a bit sketchy ones. The fords possibly looked easier and quicker.
Not really a place for a camp. A picnic table was there but I didn’t see a place for a tent.

Puesto {21-02} [86.9/1030] (Huenchupen) - as mentioned by other is supposedly a refugio. There is a small stream right before it with a flat spot for a tent, another spot a bit after and probably one by the refugio or just inside it like Dorota did.

No problem at the border, make sure your passport is stamped with exit stamp and they give you a paper slip (a double /copy paper) that you have to show to Argentinian border control.
The place and the campsite there is very nice but also very tabano infested. Tap water available.

Camp ? {21-02} [78.1/1241] - not really, didn’t see a spot for a tent, like Peggy mentioned too much vegetation.
If really in a need of camp on that stretch of a trail then here was one: -41.23509, -71.80915 - there is a ford and some flat, bushless spots for a tent I believe the spot that Peggy meant.

After arriving in Pampa Linda we went straight to the border control. Supposedly since covid Argentinians don’t stamp your passport upon entering. However last time (2024 Jan.) we had a stamp and still had some issues when leaving the country, because we were “not in the system”. Due to this we asked them if they could do it so that we could leave the country with less hassle. They stamped the “copy side” of paper slip that we got when leaving Chile. Which we then needed when we were leaving Argentina again.

We camped at Auberge Pampa Linda Camping / Rio Manso camping. 14k ARS pp, shower 15k ARS pp, we washed in the river like any other day.
Dinner at the auberge, fast food, papas fritas is what we have been craving. Card payment accepted and Fernando working there was the friendliest and nicest guy in Argentina.
We camped on the spot nearest to the camp entrance and were “catching” some of the public wifi in our tent. It worked pretty well by the information building (closed) making the wifi, even some tables outside for longer surfs.

Camping Los Vuriloches 30k ARS pp, with shower included. Also has a nice restaurant with some healthier food options and a small shop, not really a resupply, but enough snacks and drinks, fresh fruit. Cash only!

Day 7 - From Pampa Linda we took the option 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi) however the actual name for this trail is Cinco Lagunas.

It is a very popular trek to do around Bariloche and we met very many people doing it despite it actually being quite demanding in some places with some quite poor sections of the trail in other. But mostly all the locals that we met had a very different philosophy and approach to hiking which we found very interesting. Just one example, by the time we go to Laguna Cretón at around 14:30, the people that camped there the night before were just finishing drinking matte and packing up to start their day. A different approach, for them it’s a camping trip with some hiking whereas for us it’s a hiking trip with some camping. We should try it the other way some time.

It is a very good trail (autobahn of a trail) from Pampa Linda to Laguna Ilón, but after that the trail gradually gets worse and worse.
Ford {21-03} [50.5/848] - has a bridge.

Lots of people camping at Ilón, at least a hundred. (It was Saturday). There you can buy some food, snacks and drinks (Cash only!). And the prices are quite outrageous, Chile felt like a really cheap country in comparison.
A very beautiful location but I wouldn’t want to camp there at least not on a weekend.

Again as mentioned by others the trails going up and down the passes are not in the greatest conditions. There are some cairns and some blue and red markings, here and there but it is still possible to loose the trail because the loose terrain in some places can be engaging and requires full focus.
Up and down - Pass {21-03} [38.4/1942] (Paso Cerro Capitan) was quite simple there was a trail up albeit steep and sandy in places and it sort of fizzled out on the way down mainly because of the rocky terrain, but plenty of cairns to follow.

The Laguna Azul was truly azul in comparison to Jujuy and Cretón, very beautiful contrast with the surrounding mountains.

The Up to the Pass {21-03} [33.5/1911] (Filo Cerro Cristales) was steep and tbh the trail didn’t make sense from the beginning to the end and it is potentially dangerous due to a rock fall that could be caused by others.
First it goes steeply down through some trees and to a wet meadow instead of just traversing from the pass by Laguna Cretón. Then it just goes straight up through the steepest part of the face. I definitely wouldn’t want to be on this super loose trail, below some of the very overburdened hikers with 6 bags on all sides, that we saw plenty of, slipping and sliding down the most simple trail because they can’t see where they are going. The “trail” for some mysterious reason is designed to channel any dislodged rocks above you, right at you. We were lucky and there was nobody above us, but I can definitely see a potential hazard there. This part of the trail could definitely be made a lot safer by adding some longer zig-zags traversing the face and spreading the people out instead of keeping everyone in a “death culoir”
Plenty of blue and sometimes red markings, just need to look for them.
Down on the other side was way less steep and mostly on solid granite.

And then the Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815] (Filo Cerro CAB) was a mirror of the previous pass, first up on lower angle mostly solids granite slabs except for the final bit and then down a steep and loose slope but at least traversing the face for the most part. We also didn’t follow the gpx but just went straight down to the NW bypassing the cliffs on the other side. Not sure whether it was any more difficult than the actual route.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather and the views from all the passes were just incredible, we missed those, all the previous days being in the forest.

We camped on the west side by Laguna C.A.B. / Lluvu (locals call it CAB and also some signs reffered to it as CAB not Lluvu.
A nice swim in the lake after a long day but it takes a walk to get to the deep/swimmable part of the lake. A very few other campers by the lake. Though the 20 people we talked to on the way there all had camped there the night before.

Day 8 - There are no actual trails around the either side of the lake so you have to walk through the lake or potentially do a very annoying BB. The lake has actually a pleasant, flat and hard packed bottom near the shore, very easy to walk on even without shoes, a nice foot massage.
After the lake there is a mierda trail pretty much all the way down to the Ford {21-03} [23.0/1133] (Arroyo la Chata) after which it slowly starts to improve again. There is a possibility to camp by the ford. The “ford” is doable on rocks and logs.

The trail up to the Pass {21-03} [20.1/1780] (Filo del Cerro Negro) is actually not too bad except for a short but very steep and sandy part just before exiting the forest. And then after the pass it’s pretty much back on normal trails, especially oncce past the Refugio.

No card payment at the Refugio Manfredo Segre, solo efectivo, Pepsi - 7k ARS.
A lot of people on the trail afterwards and with every km closer to Colonia Suiza more and more people were on the trail.

A massive camp - “Camp {21-03} [16.1/1185]” over 50 people were wild camping there, though when we passed there in the afternoon, most of the people were still drinking matte and packing up in a true Argentinian fashion. I can only imagine how much toilet paper you could find in the bushes around that place. I definitely wouldn’t take the water from anywhere in Arroyo Goye stream.

And btw the pipe from the Refugio toilets went into the gully where the river originates from. There are side streams along the way.

Somewhere else in this valley of surprises a bit lower down there was a school group with about 40 school kids that had camped there. When we were passing there, some of the kids (teenagers) looked quite desperate running around with toilet paper rolls in their hands, one guy was just squatting behind the rock right next to the trail. The shit smell in the air was a direct consequence of a poor planning, bringing so many school kids to a camp-out without any facilities.

Even though we thought we saw many people on the trail, when we got to Colonia Suiza it felt like we had suddenly come to some sort of festival. Supposedly the reason was the Sunday fair due to which the place was extra busy.

We took Uber from Colonia Suiza to Bariloche as after the 28 days of hiking (not all in a row) we were a bit too tired and smelly for the bus. It also started raining shortly after we got back, perfect timing.

Overall, definitely a very beautiful and worth doing section. Bring some ARS if you want some goodies and probably, avoid doing it on weekends if you can.

After 27 GPT sections and over 2000km of trail covered over 3 trips in 6 years we now plan to take a bit of a longer break from GPT. It’s an amazing project and truly a special place to explore and find an adventure and solitude in the mountains that’s not that easy to come by these days. Thank you GPT community!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''GPT21/ 2026 Dec,Jan 31-4 / WEBO / OH03, OH02A, OH2B/ 4.5 days/ hiking /Bailey'''
General notes -

Incredibly beautiful section

Killed at least 100 horse flies

When entering Chile to bariloche they asked how long i intended to stay in Argentina. I said 5 days. I read a previous comment saying that you can stay for less but not more than the time you say you intend to stay in Argentina. So I would recommend giving yourself more time maybe

Costs - bus to trail head, camping at Refugio (10,500 ars), bus to Puerto varas (2000 CLP,)

Difficulty - 3/5

Attractiveness - 5/5

Day 1

Bariloche felt like a mega city compared to everywhere else

Bus to Colonia suzia pay with card number 10.

Started after noon. Trail was great up until Launga Negra

First ford is a bridge. All the fords were okay. Mostly rock hops, there's a bridge or calf height

I camped on the pass after cab Laguna. The ascent had cairns going in multiple directions but mostly upwards.

Camp 1

Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815]. No water, heaps of flat ground, not really wind protected

Day 2 - Option 2A Refugio otto meiling

I forgot the pass but I missed the cairns for one of the descents and had to do a awkward down climb

The trail from pampa Linda to the top was pretty nice. I found some water along the way. This was between the ford (a bridge) and the steep incline where the trail starts and road finishes. The ford/ bridge had murky water

Camp 2

Refugio otto meiling

Nice spot, heaps of people. I didn't reserve my camping. The person who checked me in recommended people reserve their campsites or if you are staying inside. There's water here.

Day 3 - option 2B Refugio Viejo

Wifi was working okay for me at pampa Linda.

I got my Argentina exit stamp in pampa Linda.

After crossing into Chile the Carabineros were nice, I didn't check my bag for food, I didn't smuggle anything in. There's water here, tables and camping. They wanted me to check in after camping at the

Camp 3

Refugio Viejo - cowboy camped past the Refugio Viejo. There were about 6 people up there. Agree with a previous comment to get closer to the cliff and watch the glacier. Snow melt for water.

Day 4

Checked in with the Carabineros

Big day walking through the forest in the heat wave. Thankful a lot of shade and water. I didn't see anyone until the end of the day

Camp 4

Lago Cayute [63.6/233]. Water from the lake, sheltered. Very busy on the weekend.

Day 5

Walked to cochamo, caught the bus to Puerto varas.

*''' 2025.28.12 / 1 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 1 (Laguna Los Quetros) + RR to El Callao/ Kris and Stiina'''

(Continued from Section 20)

Day 5 - While we had the Movistar cell service in Las Gaviotas we wanted to at least make sure that Rudy is at his Refugio Dos Condores to help us with the boat the upcoming day.

When we tried to call him the call didn’t go through, we tried different phone nrs.
We didn’t guess it then but what Rudy told us later is that you should write him a WhatsApp message instead, because he has internet there but no cell service.
Don Rudy Yefi phone nr. +56 950 180 447 as mentioned earlier.

So, we googled boat services on Lago Todos Los Santos and we found this website with 3 different phone numbers for different ferries www.lago-todoslossantos.cl/informacion/

First we called the Elizabeth III, there was no answer, then we called the Catamarán (a fast express boat between Petrohué and Peulla) +56 942 623 484 and a man answered. We explained that we want to be picked-up from El Callao the next day to which he said yes no problem and that the boat will be there at 9:30 and that’s it, no further information was given. So oblivious to our faulty arrangements we continued on to section 21.

A lot of the following information we only learned the next day because we didn’t read the trail notes careful enough.

Even though we thought that we spoke with someone who operates the Catamarán boat, it later turned out we spoke to the captain of the Elizabeth III as he himself confirmed.

What we didn’t know at the time but learned later was that - in El Callao there isn’t actually any ferry port or a dock, just a sandy beach.
And the main cherry on top of the cake that we somehow missed was that to actually board the Elizabeth III you have to have your own independent boat arrangement for a boat that will actually take you to the ferry that just passes El Callao from a distance. This somehow very “obvious” information wasn’t even mentioned by the captain of the ferry. However I spoke to him about it once we were on the ferry that next time some extranjeros calling for a boat pick-up to please mention this little detail.

Long story short, we were simply lucky that Rudy himself and another settler from the valley had to go to the Puerto Varas the same morning that we had to go. Otherwise we would have waved to the ferry from the coast watching it go past without stopping, scratching our silly heads.
The 5min boat ride to the ferry cost 10k CLP pp, the 2h ferry with toilets and wifi to Petrohué cost 660 CLP pp, all makes sense.

So once we “”arranged”” a boat transfer from El Callao for 9:30 tomorrow we went on to join the Option 1 (Laguna Los Quetros).

On the way along the road 3 dogs started following us and those weren’t some street dogs they all had collars and they looked very groomed, at least when they started following us later they were completely dirty like dogs. No matter how we tried to stop them from following us they just continued all the way to Laguna Los Quetros which was a bit annoying. People that we saw along the way kept telling us that the dogs will return home, sure. We had this happen before in Armenia, hiking the TCT where we became known as foreigners that stole the dog.
Anyhow, when we go to the Quetros lake there was luckily an ariero who had a horse tour with some people whom he had brought to the lake for lunch. We asked for his help with the dogs and he tied them all to a tree until we left, to later make the dogs follow them back instead. Because when we tried to continue on from the lake the dogs kept following us again, instead of hanging out with the people who were actually giving them food. We didn’t give them anything except some swear words, however we did name them - Chikito, Negrito and Goldie.

We met Isabelle at Rudy’s termas, she works for Rudy and was there with 3 other foreigners preparing the hot tubs she was very nice and friendly. The termas were two bathtubs carved our of logs with a pipe of warm water filling them up. And it was all inside a shed, which is presumably locked when nobody is there. We just did small talk and kept walking.

Rudy is a lovley old gentleman, we explained to him that we had arranged a boat for tomorrow and that we will be heading to El Callao for the night to avoid the very early morning hike the next day to which he didn’t say anything, just nodded so we though all is good!
We also bought some pan amasado from him, a really delicious dense, homemade bread 400 CLP per piece a bargain!

The trail from Don Rudy’s place to El Callao was slightly undulating and took us about 1.5hr even though Rudy advised us it will take about 3h.

We camped not far from the harbor on a meadow we saw on the satellite that had a stream running by. When we were setting up our tent, we heard some people talking. Behind the stream and the bushes were a few houses and the people were at home so I went to ask if it’s ok that we camp there. We talked a bit and I explained about the GPT, the man was nice bus asked me not to disclose their location as they value their privacy.

Day 6 - Cows started blaring from around 5:00 in the morning in the neighboring meadows. The evening before the man said there is a bull that visits the meadow that we were on in the mornings. And sure enough the bull was there at 6:30, staring at us, what the heck are we doing in his field, so we had an earlier departure than anticipated.
While waiting for our ferry to “pick us up” on the beach in the El Callao we enjoyed some sunshine with some, Rudy’s pan amasado and a few protein bars which was all that we had left from food.
Unexpectedly Rudy arrived with two other men and that’s when we learned about how this whole thing works, luck definitely saved us from having an unexpected adventure that day.

We boarded Elizabeth III about a kilometer from the coast, which would have been a long swim otherwise. It was smooth sailing all the way to Petrohue with the most incredible views of Volcan Osorno, Volcan Puntiagudo and the Tronador on the other side of the lake.
There are toilets and wifi on board and we didn’t make any other stops which brought us to Petrohué in about 2hrs. When we got there the bus to Puerto Varas was already waiting - 3.5k CLP pp.

Next off to Section 22 NoBo, 21 (Tronador traverse) and to Bariloche to finish another GPT season!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-07 to 2025-12-11/ 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO+EABO / 21-01 + RR + 21-04A (Packraft El Callao to Rio Blanco) + 21-04 + 21-02 + 21-02B (Refugio Viejo) / Antoine B'''

A section mostly in forest trail with nice highlights: Laguna Questros for camping, crossing Lago de Todos los Santos and sleeping on an isolated beach, ascending El Tronador, enjoying hot spring and isolated farms.

Attractivity: 4
Difficulty: 3 (long forest sections)

Day 1:
Coming from GPT20, I started at las Gaviotas around 18.30 and finished the day hiking up to Laguna Los Questros. Very pleasant path uphill. I met a horse rider coming from la Laguna, who asked for 10k for camping over there. I wasn't sure if he was the owner but paid 5k CLP (it's just a good flat ground with a pit, dry toilets maybe). La Laguna is a great spot to camp and swim in the lake, no one there but birds and cows.

Day 2:
Long day walking on forest trails with tabanos. 2 farms on the way but no one there. Arrived around 18 at Lago de Todos los Santos and packrafted SE for 2.5h until nightfall (barely no wind, clear sky, lucky conditions). The evening light were charming and the surrounding landscapes reminded of many places (Fuji for Osorno, Garda & Annecy lakes)....
Camped on a lovely isolated beach (-41.117963 ; -72.127518), close to the referenced waypoint. Splendid spot.

Day 3:
On the water around 10:30 for 2-3h, a bit of tail wind accelerating me. It wasn't possible to access the last bit in the river meadows (not enough water) and Rio Blanco has too much current, not worth the effort. So I landed in the muddy/woody shore, where a neighbour just left by boat (-41.15470, -72.09983). Short walk along the shore before joining the trail in the forest. Nice walk in the valley, then lots of forest trail, I went eastward towards Tronador and ended up by nightfall at the hot spring spot, by the river close to the farms (thanks for the tips shared here, really a memorable place). Camping ground is perfect.

Day 4:
Started at 12, walked to the 2nd farm and met 4 carabineros visiting the farmer. We hiked back to the puesto together (4h). We sympathized and they invited me for dinner. Lovely company, great memories. Camped at the puesto, free, water available and a little stream for washing. Good news: they just got equipped with solar panel so no more noisy diesel generator as of now.

Day 5:
Relaxing hike up to Refugio Viejo (option 02B), at fast pace (1h30 up). Loved the views (and not carrying any backpack). It's quite fresh and was super windy up there so worth carrying jacket + sun glasses (very reflective with the glaciers). The CC path beyond the refuge, to the edge of the cliff is indeed not to be missed. Ran down in 45mn, amazing feeling after 2 weeks with a 25kg backpack. After chatting again with the carabineros, it took me 3-4h of forest trail to end up in Pampa Linda (17:00). Gendarmería is after the bridge, last building leaving the place. Smooth entry but the bus left (17:00 I think). Hitchhike was not successful for 30mn and I met cool people staying at the camping Vuriloche (~30k ARS if I recall) so I joined them for the night and they drove me the next day to Bariloche.

''' GPT21 5-8/12/25 / 4 days / Hiking / WEBO / OH03 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel

5/12 — Colonia Suiza → Laguna Negra

Took a bus to Colonia Suiza (using SUBE card but you can just use your credit as well).
The ascent to the lagoon was mostly easy and well marked with a steeper section toward the end.

Distance: 11 km
Ascent: 963 m
Descent: 163 m

6/12 — Laguna Negra → Campsite After the Pass (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W)

After breakfast at the hut, we packed and began the climb to the first pass, which offered an impressive reflection of Laguna Negra.
We then continued ascending toward Laguna CAB on a partially marked and steep trail. We did some bush bashing but connected to the trail after 10 or so minutes. The GPX is fairly accurate and it easy to miss the marks. The weather was hot, and there were many biting flies. ( bring some fly spray) We took our shoes off and crossed the lagoon from the other side (the gpx trail is from the opposite side but longer) along its edge and stopped for lunch.
Afterward, we climbed another pass with beautiful views. The beginning of the ascent was not clearly marked.
During the descent, Shmuel and Shai lost track of unintentionally followed a difficult scrambling route. The Route is marked with rock cairns but easy to miss.

Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 1,067 m
Descent: 1,176 m

7/12 — Campsite (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W) → Laguna Ilón

Well marked, steep accents and decents. (Need to use hands for sure). Mostly well marked, a bit confusing near Jujuy. It was an hoilday and a lot of people camped at the laguna. Campsite is 20000 pesos per person. I was told after I paid there is a wild camping spot pretty closeby.

Distance: 12.5 km
Ascent: 955 m
Descent: 1,058 m

8/12 — Laguna Ilón → Pampa Linda

Easy route down, and well marked. The road is closed till 16:00, rested by the river till then. Was super easy to hitchhike back to bariloche. Maybe because of the holiday. Where is a weak free wifi near the visiter center.

Distance: 8.5 km
Ascent: 112 m
Descent: 632 m

Annoyances : the horse fly bite ever through the shirt, bring some bug spray

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 4/5

* '''GPT21 / 2025-12-01 and 02 / 2 days / Packrafting Sobo / Option 5A and Lago Cayetue side trip / Lago Todos los Santos from Petrohue to Lago Cayetue / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This route is a suitable southbound season start for packrafters with heavier packrafting gear that wish to minimize hiking in favor of more packrafting.

Public transportation to Petrohue at the western terminus of Lago Todos los Santos is simple. Take a minibus from the Puerto Montt bus station to Puerto Varas (every 5 to 10 minutes) and tell the bus driver that you wish to take another minibus to Petrohue. The bus drive will drop you off in the center of Puerto Varas at a bus stop where the buses to Petrohue stop (every 30 minutes).

In Petrohue are two camp sites on the other side (southern) of the slow moving river just where Lago Todos los Santos ends and drains into Rio Petrohue. Packrafters best stay at one of these camp sites to start paddling with the first light on the next morning when conditions are typically calmer. Motor boats bring people to these camp sites (boat crossing 1000 CLP / camping 5000 CLP) so packrafters don’t need to inflate the boat for a 50 m river crossing.

Wind typically blows westbound on the lake main body. The lake arm Cayetue is generally less windy but the typical wind blows northbound (“viento sur”). On a typical sunny day wind starts between 10:00 and 12:00 and calms down after 18:00. Therefore starting very early is the best strategy to complete the lake crossing in one day.

There are quite some emergency exits along the water route if wind and waves force you out of the water. Note that most buildings along the shore are now vacation retreats of the rich and super-rich and not the homes of settlers. A good number of these luxury buildings are equipped alarm systems so be cautious when exploring these upscale buildings to avoid a visit by caretaker. If you are forced to camp somewhere along the shore then best choose a hidden spot that is not easily visible from water nor from the buildings.

We packrafted in 6 hours from Petrohue to Cayetue. The best lake exit is just west of Rio Conchas (41° 13′ 40.5″ S / 72° 16′ 0.8″ W) and not as indicated in the track files at the small port. This extends the water route by 1.5 km and reduces hiking by the same distance.

The trail from the lake exit to Lago Cayetue is well maintained.

Lago Cayetue and Rio Conchas is a nice side trip. You can packraft the Rio Conchas from the lake drain 1 km downstream (very little flow) and from lake feed 2.5 km upstream.

Hikers that need a northbound boat transfer from Cayetue may call Eduardo (+56 9 7515 2075). He is a caretaker of the vacation retreat where Rio Conchas flows into Lago Todos los Santos.

* '''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Daniel.s'''

Started at Puerto Poncho, from Entre Lagos hitchhiking is the only way. Plan a half day to get anywhere on this side of Lago Rupanco.

Day 1: Paddling is straight forward, tailwind in the afternoon usually. The hike from las Gaviotas is easy to find and maintained, used by cattle at L. Los Quetros, where I camped (no one there). In summer tabanos and mud (after rain) will be your dominant enemies.

Day 2: hiked all the way to Lago Todos los Santos, trail easily followabel. At arrival (~15:00) wind was moderate at shore, strong in the middle of the lake, made a few kilometers to a little sheltered beach (S 41° 03.993', W 072° 11.689') where I spent the night.

Day 3:
Early start (4:30am) to use the calm hours. Arrived at southern end ( S 41° 13.706', W 072° 16.019') around 11am, then hiked to L. Cayutué and up to the parking for the day-hikers (S 41° 18.052', W 072° 16.309') where I got a lift all the way to Cochamó quickly (to avoid hiking down 10 kms of dusty gravel road).

'''2025-01-21 to 2025-01-24 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

- Road from Entre Lagos to Puerto poncho does not have much traffic. Hitchike may take long.

- Because of that I started at lago Rupanco quite late (12.00). Waves were big but ok with decked packraft.

- Laguna's los quetros and the thermal baths are perfect camp spots. As for 22th of January there is no one , so it's free.

- Water is easily to find on the route every hour or so l. So no need to carry

- The trail goes trough beautiful forest. Can be very muddy if it recently rained alot.

- You can beautiful camp at the Northern shore of Laguna de los Santos. To cross the lake next day early morning.

- I started at 7 and at 8 there were already huge waves. In the afternoon it calmed down. Crossing took a whole day.

- The entry of Rio conchas is not at the first entry but more downstream.

- camping next to Rio Conchas has awesome fishing

- The haucho there said in the winter Rio conchas flows to Lago dos Santos and in the summer it flows to the Laguna.

- Just before the lake Rio Conchas turns into a small stream so you need to carry the packraft (100m).

==Season 2024/25==

*''' 2025-02-24 to 2025-03-03 / 9 days / Hiking+ferry / SOBO / var 21-01 + RR + ferry + 21-02 from Puerto Callao + 21-02 A (Refugio Otto Mailing) + 21-02 B (Refugio Viejo) + RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: I started at Puerto Las Gaviotas. I did not make it to 19 stages because I would like to cross the border as quickly as possible. I found Uber tel.+56 9 8716 2865 who took me for 50,000 clp to Las Gaviotas. I can recommend him. The road was not easy and the price is fair because from Entre Lagos it was 70 km. Then I took OH 1. Very nice path in the forest but a little moody after rain. Near Termas de Rudy trail passes for private terrain. Diana, who is the owner, invited me for tea. She also offers camp for 5,000 clp and has Termas. There also lives his son, Alejandro. There I have met two Chilean girls. They were frightened after passing bridges in variant RR. From the house of Diana, take variant AA, not RR. On RR at point .... there is a bridge. But I decided to go through the river. After the rain, the current was strong and the level of water was till my hips. I passed the night at Refugio Los Condores. Laura, mujer de Rudy, was very polite. She took me to his house, in the cabana there were some people. For hospedaje, cena, desayuno I paid 40,000 clp. The cena was very big and the desayuno also.
You can also buy eggs, bread, honey , beer. When I was in Entre Lagos I wrote Rudy to order a boat, refugio and food. Also he ordered for me a place at the ferry Elizabeth III for the next day. I paid for the boat to the ferry 15,000 clp.

Day 2: From Refugio Dos Condores to Puerto Callao, it took me 1.5 hours, but I recommend 2 hours. Two bridges were very solid. At Puerto Callo, I was waiting for Augustino, the son of Rudy. The ferry Elizabeth III arrived at 4:30 p.m. with a half-hour delay. During the journey, we took and left passengers at different ports. Finally, I reached Puerto Puella at 8 p.m. I slept at Hotel Puella for 40,000 clp with breakfast. But you can try Hotel Natura. The next day, one girl said to me that she had paid 30,000 clp. I was very lucky that transporting between ports had worked well for a normal price, together 20,000 clp.

Day 3: In the morning, I crossed the border of Chile without a problem. I still had three days for my stay. The road from Puella is a little boring but easy. I joined a group who went to "Riggy". From there, I had very spectacular views of Tronador. Afterward, I came back and spent the night near a refugio in a tent. The refugio is private. One person said to me that it belonged to carabineros, and another that it belonged to Hotel Natura.

Day 4: In the morning, I reached Aduana, Argentina. But the officials went at 12:30 on a boat from Bariloche. They did not like me to give a stamp of entrada to Argentina. But finally, the women gave me a paper to fill out and gave me a stamp. The men were impolite. Then I took a very nice trail "Paso por las Nubes". You had to pass some bridges. The trail went through the forest and is very easy. The night I spent in Refugio Alfonso Roca. A lot of people were there, but the views of the glacier were spectacular. The price for a night was 60,000 clp. You need a first reservation for WhatsApp. I had not, but it was a place for me. Payment only in cash.

Day 5: The trail went down through the forest. It was very easy. All fallen trees were cut down and easy to cross, and there were bridges saved. I decided to take variant 21-02A to refugio Otto Mailing, also paying 60,000 pesos argentinos for the night. They had also places for tents for 14,000 pesos argentinos. You can pay by card but with an additional 10%. The views of the glacier were incredible. The trail from Pampa Linda is very popular and very well signed.
Unfortunately, it was raining and there were a lot of clouds, but still I could see the glacier. This refugio has a very nice atmosphere. Because of bad weather, there were not a lot of people.

Day 6: It was a very rainy day. I started very early from Pampa Linda. At the border control, the man was very polite. He gave me two stamps: entrance and exit. And filled out a paper in three copies. I did not make any requests in Pampa. The Paso Viriloche trail was well signed, and the next day was the maratón to Ralun. I would like to take variant 21-B, but the carabinero stopped me because of bad weather. He was very polite. Because of bad weather, he invited me and two other people to something like a house and also took our clothes and shoes for drying. We slept on the floor and made a fire inside.

Day 7: The weather was excellent so I took 21B to refugio viejo. This place is amazing with views on Tronador. Finally I was walking together with three carabinieros, they had patrol. They took care of me. We went a little up after refugio to see glaciers. Tronador is amazing. After descending I took my things and went to refugio Huenchupen at km 86.9 of 21-02. I slept on the floor.

Day 8: Next day very rainy, so I was walking very fast through forest and mundo terrain. Night at puesto at km 26.4 of variant 21-04 close to RR. There were not poblador. We put tents together with two chilenos and two argentinos in house for animals. Water we find close from small stream.

Day 9: Crazy day. Next day in the predicción heavy rain, so I decided to reach Ralun, 37 km to go. All rivers all the way had increased water level because of rain. But only Rio Conchas was demanding: water above knee level and strong current. Finally I reached Ralun. I slept at hospedaje for 30 k clp, there is also cabana there for 40 k clp. The first house at the left. The owner is Margot, phone:+56 9 8716 2865. In shop el cruce very good asortiment. Next day I went to Puerto Montt to take my deposit with food. Bus at 6.50 and last at 8.00. Last from Puerto Montt at 4 p.m, at terminal you can buy ticket at shop number 37.

*'''2025-01-03 to 2025-03-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy

After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.

The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.

At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
So if you want to do this new option (OH03D) it is better to start directly in Villa las Coihues.

I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!

Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.

The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.

Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!

There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.

At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.

From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.

Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.

On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.

Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏

The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!

*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''

There is a detailed report of Natalie and Tomáš from January 2024 so I'll just add the differences/changed things.

I took the formal OH3 so I began in Colonia Suiza.

To get there from Bariloche by bus, need to bye a SUBE card (or ask someone to pay for you with it in the bus and give cash directly). These cards can only be found at the Centro Civico Bariloche in the center. Then you have to go in one of the many kiosko with SUBE in the city to pay and charge it. It was 1.5k for the card and needed to charge 4k to go untill Colonia Suiza. The bus 10 goes there directly from the city center but not much per day. Other solution is to take bus 20 and then an other one. Easy to find out in ggmaps or app moovit.

Untill laguna negra, it's an easy trail, overrun at this season.
Camp at 16.1, close to nice river.

Pass at 20.1 is easy and the view is awesome.

Going up to laguna CAB : there are some falen trees, trail a bit harder to follow. At this point -41,14666, -71,61216 intersection with an other more evident trail but it's not the good one, which is hide behind a log.

First beach of laguna CAB is very nice, stopped there to eat and swim, water at perfect temperature in the afternoon and no annoying insects.

Then steep ascent to the pass at 28.0. Up there, I found navigation a bit confusing. Sometimes lots of cairns in several direction. No trail as it's only big scrambling rocks. Begining of the descent is hard and take time.

Camp at the 2nd camp spot close to Mallin Mate Dulce. This one was nicer than the first. Good river flowing close and sort of a waterfall with a bassin. But so much mosquitoes that I ate and mostly stayed in my tent.
This day was only 15km but feels way more. Lots of elevation gain and loss, slow evolution (and also I had a very heavy backpack).

Next pass at 33.5, navigation easier with some red/blue marks, steep ascent and descent that often demand using of hands (especially begining of the descent !!). I saw my first condor up there, incredible moment.

After laguna Creton, everything gets easier (and faster) : navigation, terrain and steepness !

Note : camp spot just under laguna Creton (with waterfall and bassin) and the one close to Laguna Jujuy (probably a bit exposed if big wind but there are little stonewalls to pitch the tent) seems really nice to spent the night !

The view is awesome all along the ridge till pass 38.4.

Easy descent to laguna Ilon. Lots of people camp here coming from pampa linda (12k/pp for camping). Still nice spot to rest a bit, perfect to swim, shade, dry toilets and drinking water.

Easy descent to pampa linda with really nice views on the tronador !

Pampa linda : restaurants (expensive!), campings (saw one at 8k without shower). Free wifi that worked really well in all town (at least in the morning when not much people there), I could even had a WhatsApp videocall with perfect quality.

Gendarmería : easy and fast. No date in the paper so I guess it's not compulsory to get to the carabineros the exact same day.

Carabineros : very chill, they don't check my bag at all, no form to fill, so I didn't finished all my prohibited food as previoused and I passed the border with cheese, nuts, dry fruits,... Possible to let them things to go up to refugio viejo.

Refugio viejo tronador : long but mostly easy going up to the refugio, awesome landscapes. I splept there in a high windy night, the refuge is very basic but a good schelter.

Puesto at 86.9 is not a puesto but a refuge. There is a table outside with an awesome view on the tronador. No bed inside but could probably be a good shelter to pitch the tent in bad weather. Water in the river flowing just few meters down (not in OSM).

Camp at 88.9 : the spot with the river is really nice to have a swim with large bassins. Only fits 1 tent I think.

In Gaia there are 2 others refugio on the map. Refugio Seba --> nothing. Refugio Vuriloche --> seems more like the house of a settler. The termas are at wrong place on Gaia map.

I did a short day to enjoy the termas and shelter from rain, multiple nice and clean bassins.
-41,24628, -72,04855 : flat spot to camp, tables, fire.
-41,24701, -72,04806 : first trail go down here to the river. 1 bassin just down and one closer to the river.
-41,24813, -72,04712 : 2nd trail go to the bridge (the one in OSM). Just before there are 2 other nice bassins, hoter !!
I was there with a group of 16 argentinians who make the traverse every year, they know the settler, told me the use of hot springs is free !
I saw him the next morning. He sells bread and killed a lamb for the group (but maybe need to be asked in advance for that?).

Then trail sometimes muddy/sleepery but mostly in good conditions even after a rainy night !
Fords of Rio Conchas up to knee.

Camp just after ford 28.6.

In total, it was a very nice section with awesome landscapes, especially OH3 and the refugio viejo!! Took me about 7 days with some short days.

*'''2025-JAN-17 to 2025-JAN- / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We combined stages 20 and 21, starting with food supplies for both stages (4 days). This stage with enough water, mostly leads through dense Valdivian forest. The highlight for us was the view of the Puntiagudo and Osorno volcanoes from Lago Todos los Santos, where you need to arrange transportation to the opposite shore.

Following variant 01, the trail ascends to Laguna Los Quetros through dense forest along a cow path carved into the terrain. At Laguna Los Quetros, there are many beautiful camping spots, benches, fire pits, and a dry toilet. We met the owners of this campsite at the beginning of the stage, and they told us that the campsite usually has a fee, but they didn’t feel like going up that day, so we could stay for free.
The ford [19.1/650] was crossed dry-footed. The bridges along the trail were quite fragile or improvised, for example, the bridge [20.3/419] is suitable only for the brave due to its condition. At the point Food, Lodging, Ferry [21.1+0.2/415], no one was there, so we continued to Settler, Lodging, Ferry [23.2/432], where you can buy breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as bread, eggs, honey, soda, and beer. We also learned that the boat to the other side of Lake Todos los Santos was expected to depart the following day (Sunday) around noon. Therefore, we reached the lake and decided to wait until the next day. However, the owner of one of the boats appeared and offered to take us to the Cayutue port for 120,000 CLP. We eventually negotiated the price down to 100,000 CLP. He dropped us off outside the track files at coordinates (-41.22695, -72.26297), where there is a sheltered terrace where you can stay overnight. In addition to tables, benches, and a grill, there is also a water tap. From there, we set out on a new route, mostly across pastures, visible on navigation tools. The settler at coordinates (-41.25020, -72.25722) allowed us to pass through his property, though he didn’t seem too pleased about it. We rejoined the RR trail at the transition from MR to TL approximately at km [57.2]. From Lago Cayutue, we encountered many people who were out on a weekend walk. The rest of the way to Cochamó was peaceful.

* ''' 2025-JAN-17 > 18 / 1 jours (30km) / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 21-A > RR > END km 30 / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : nuageux
| Eau : rare
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Si la neige ne fond pas, il n'y a pas d'eau entre le km 4,5 et le km 19,0. Je n'ai pas pu faire ma lessive. Le RR va dans la riviere au km 20,3 alors j'ai pris le 21-A qui est le chemin officiel. Le (vendredi) soir au refuge Dos Condores, on me dit que le ferry ne passe que certains jours. Je dois donc attendre le dimanche 12h00... Je n'ai pas compris où allait le ferry car le monsieur parlait très mal et je comprend mal l'espagnol. Bref je pense que c'est très difficile de trouver un bateau El Callao > Cayutué. Le lendemain je suis descendu au port par la derniere section plutôt boueuse, espérant un miracle. Et le miracle était là... un groupe de 15 jeune randonneur (14-18ans) de Puerto Varas avec un guide qui attendent leur bateau... Je suis rentré avec eux à Petrohue gratuitement. J'avoue qu'après la section 18 et 20, et ce plan foireux de ferry, ma motivation avait totalement disparu. Mais je repars de plus belle vers le GPT22. Bus de 12h00 entre Petrohue et la route 225, tentative infructueuse d'auto-stop vers Cochamo mais bus à 12h45. Je n'ai pas pu faire la seconde partie du GPT21 malheureusement. Mais je suis content d'être sorti de ce cul de sac.

* '''2025-01-14 / 6 hours / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 8 / Tomáš'''
While Natalie was resting in Puerto Varras, I took the same bus like last year at 8:38 from next to our hostel (-41.32710, -72.96598) and got dropped at the bridge where Option 8 starts an hour later (2500 CLP). Unlike last year, the bus was half-empty. The approach is MR, no CC. Rio Huenuhuenu does not have that much water - it is navigable, but you will hit the ground from time to time probably. Also, there are some sticks, that are due to narrowness of the river not so always to avoid (just walk your biat here and there). It took me 40 minutes to get to Rio Petrahue, which is deep and wide and while it has momentum, so you go fast, is not technical at all. There are logs and sticks but they are extremely easy to avoid. It was raining and I stopped for about two hours at Hot Spring {21-08} [24.2/29] (Termas de Ralun). They are free and popular (with both Chilians and foreigners) - there have always been other people. So probably not good for camping or washing, but great warm up. They can fit 10+ people. Tide reaches there and it somewhat elevated my boat even though I put it on the beach previously. Luckily it did not flow away. Due to high tide, Rapid {21-08} [25.1/30] was nonexistent. Camp {21} [79.3/7] is paid, I think, this is private land. Without stopping at the hot spring, Rio Petrohue would have taken me 3 hours to go down. I managed to lose my inReach in my transparent dry bag there, but recovered it later (see next entry). Hitched first car to Puerto Varras. All in all maybe due to rain and clouds, I did not find it very scenic, but listening to a podcast and eating strawberries while just floating down the river was a treat.

* '''2025-01-6/ 1 / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&OP 8/ Davide'''

Together with Volker I took Elisabeth III for Petrahue at Lagos todos Los Santos. While he proceeded for the climb of Vulcan Osorno I continued my packrafting trips starting a bit after Petrohue (Los Pollos). The official track of the GPT (21) start back at the intersection between Rio Hueñu Hueñu and Rio Petrohue, and for good reasons. The rapids starting at Los Pollos are locally famous for guided trips and rated at III+, so I don't suggest them for unaware packrafter. DO NOT try if inexperienced.

On the other hand the rest of the river is a glorious enjoyment up to its end at estero Reloncavi.

Be mindfull at the delta of Rio Hueñu Hueñu to Rio Petrohue, there are many trees in the river, and the left-most branch of the delta is completely blocked by a fallen tree transversal to the flow. Care must be given also for the remaining trait of the river.

This route overall represents a possible variation to existing tracks to not have to go to Puerto Varas if passing to Petrohue. While it is a bit more dangerous, it can substitute the hike of the RR to a day on paddling in the river downstream.

* '''2025-01-10 to 2025-01-12/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&RP (ridge) / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Note: I wrote this when out of service without reading the last three new entries, so many things could be repeated, apologies.

Day 01: El Poncho to Cenizo basin; ~14km
After a short paddle from our, "alternative hot spring camp" (see gpt20), we arrived at El Poncho port. Unfortunately like others have said, there is no infrastructure there, the GPT has it misplaced. There is just one vacation home and SWARMS of tabaños. This was disappointing because I (Natalie) wasn't careful during the last resupply stop and did not buy enough food. Tomáš set up the tent to organize our things and I wasted an hour swinging a paddle into thin air trying to kill as many tabaños as I could. I will be having a good laugh for a while when I think back to what the Chileans must have thought when they saw me walking along the road, wearing a neon colored drysuit, and swinging a paddle up a down like a lunatic. I was very close to the skipping point as my body was exhausted from stomach issues that started at the beginning of gpt19, but eventually I came to terms. Plus, Tomáš had plenty of extra food as a back up so we set off around 12:30.
The trail is an old CONAF trail and there is an covered seating area/shelter near the start (no water). The trail was in surprisingly good shape and well traveled until the turn off for the gpt trail around -40.89986, -72.27375. We recommend taking the left fork (on OSM), it looked more traveled than the right and it went well (Tomáš of course cleared some bamboo to make it more obvious, hope it helps). There is also a stick blocking the GPT route at the top when they connect again. The OSM route first takes you to two settler houses, except if you hit the second s
house, you have gone too far, the trail veers upwards in the grass just before the second. After that it is pretty easy to stay on route, there are just a couple of alternative paths that intersect at times. The last one km of the OSM route is a bit overgrown, but it is just annoying, not slowing you down. There is no water until past the "Camping Alerces". If you plan to camp there, you can walk westward ~300m to a good flowing creek that should hopefully provide water year round..
After the camping, it's a walk up a semi dry creek bed until a waterfall blocks further advancement. The trail leaves the creek bed on your left about 100 m before this waterfall, Tomáš magnified the cairns there so hopefully you can see it. Then it's a simple but steep at times walk to the ridge, absolutely amazing views of Puntiagudo (Osorno's evil stepsister) and the the surrounding area. I give the ridge walk a 10/10 for views. We slept (the night was thankfully windless) in the basin underneath Volcan Cenizo. If there is snow and sun you may find water in the afternoon/evening, but no water in the morning/early afternoon so the last water would have been the waterfall.

Day 02: Volcan basin to Lago Todos Los Santos; 20 km
The next day was very straightforward. We hiked up Cenizo , aiming more to towards the north ridge for easier climbing. The peak to it's east looks like a possible fun scramble (from the west!) if you find a good way (without bag of course). There was no snow melt on the way down and like Roman has mentioned the turn off into the forest can be easily missed; -40.95687, -72.18367. The path down was in surprisingly good shape, lots of orange cut marks as well. The tabaños were in FULL force in the valley. They were the worst around the hotspring 19.2. The hotsprings are in a locked shed and nobody is living in that spot, they live a little further down valley on the trail (Sergio?). The worst of the tabaños were there but they continued to be terrible anytime we were not in the shade of the forest. We had lunch at the main hub of the valley; Refugio Dos Condors (aka Laura and her son Augustin, Rudy being the head of the family?). They are formally set up to take guests, so it is unlikely they will ever "not" be there. They have a couple menu's and prices for alternative requests. We had lunch for 16mil each. It was well worth it for my sake because I had been under fueled for a while. I also bought eggs (300pp), bread (400pp) and half a kilo of honey (3mil). Tomáš was overjoyed to be able to eat as mucj cherries from their trees as he could and also some raspberries. They are notnripe yet, should stay available maybe till end of month? We then made good time and got to the beach "ferry" early enough to rest before an early morning paddle the next day. P.s. we almost accidentally went to the beach of the settler to the east of the ferry, seemed like a prettier spot. Also, if you camp at the ferry, there is a large light near the boats/trail entrance, so I suggest camping on the far right (loling onto the beach from the lake). There was a trickle of water that seemed questionable, so our last source of water was the bridge 27.1.

Day three: Lago Todos Los Santos (TLS) to Petrohue - 22 km
We chose to go to Petrohue as we have walked to Ralun last year via Argentina. Tomáš had the idea of crossing the lake and then following the south shore of TLS as it was less distance. I hesitated as I didn't trust the lake, so the safest option sounded like the north shore, but we had a good weather window so we went with Tomáš's suggestion, making one quick stop on the island (a nice stop if it wasn't for the tabaños. Sadly we had almost no tabanos before the stop but after that they followed us to the end - must have killed over a hundred). In the morning we set off at ~6:15am and glad we didn't set of any later. One reason being the attack of the horseflies while paddling but mainly because when we got 1km close to the end we got hit by some strong headwind and waves. Advancement was slow but we made it (altogether the section took us 48 hours). A tourist boat came to us looking panicked but we assured them we would make it. Goes to show that it is true, conditions can change VERY fast and I am personally glad we were not any further from shore. Petrohue is an awful touristy place. Bus to Puerto Varras leaves every half an hour and there were swarms of cars with tourists. There are several telecommunications towers, but no working Entel internet (Edge!).

* '''25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker'''

Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.

Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).

Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.

*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''

Very scenic but quite demanding

Day 0: We hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to Puerto Rico. We were lucky, it took us just three cars and a we waited in total less than 15 minutes. We got out of the 3rd car 1 km after the start of the RR at a small beach of Lago Rupanco, but the Tabano situation forced us to leave the beach at once. Haunted by dozens of horse-flies we went up to the MR road at this point -40,89289, -72,27335. At the last house (big wooden house after last gate on the MR), we found Robin that was really nice and help full, speaks english. She offers very nice rooms in a calm and beautiful house away of the tabaños, has a big kitchen were you can cook. Paradise to rest a night.

In the evening we wrote a message to Rudy, made a reservation for the refugio Los Condores and the hotsprings on the way for the day after.
The number to make reservation : +56950180447.
Camping + hot tubes 12k
Refuge : camping 6k, hospedaje 12k. Desayuno 10k, almuerzo o cena 16k. Everything is homemaid by his wife. She also cell bread, eggs, bebidas.

Day 1: We started at 8.30 on the RR, first hours in the forest (no water! You hear a small river, but the access seemed very difficult), then CC on the volcanic plateau.

On the trail up, we pass throught settlers land, they were nice but told us that they charge people of 5k each when they go by this trail that is on their land.

Ascent to the pass on very steep volcanic gravel. 1300 m of altitude only to this point. Great view on the very close Volcan Puntiagudo. From now on much snow, but no running water. The ascent on Cerro Cenizo is very, very steep, we went partly on snow, partly on volcanic gravel. When you arrive at the summit (1640m) you have climbed all in all around 2000m of altitude. We arrived at 3 p.m. and had still a descent of 1200 m of altitude before us. Very steep down, when the CC ends less steep on the trail. First running water only close to the junction with OH1.

Rudy had opened the hut with 2 wooden bassins at 19.2 (one too hot to enter, the other one perfect, but it‘s not the same as a natural bassin with a hot spring). We arrived at the refugio los condores 23.2 at 7 p.m. and got a great dinner (and two rooms in the lovely hut). This was a really long and very physical day.

Day 2: Clara went back to Lago Rupanco, Volker continued to Lago Todos Santos.

Clara :
took OH 1 to get to Las Gaviotas. Very easy trail compared to RR. Should be muddy in rain weather. There are more parallel trails, some are in OSM, frequently used.
Laguna Los quetros was full of tabaños so I went directly down.

No boat at Las gaviotas to go to puerto buey.
Easy to hitchhike if you walk a bit the beginning of the road.

Volker: Rudy‘s price for the boat transfer over the Lago Todos Santos is now at 150k, which is a no-go. But the Elizabeth III boat from Peulla to Petrohue passes by on the lake on mo/wed/friday at around 9 a.m. It does not stop at the beach! Rudy called his cousin down at the lake and arranged an apppintment at 8.30 on the beach. So I started at 6 a.m. at Rudy’s, arrived after two hours of easy walking (mud at the beginning; can be done in 1,5hrs) at the beach and 30 minutes later Esteban arrived with his small boat. Once he saw the ferry approaching, we got to the middle of the lake, where I changed the boat. Rudy told me, Esteban would charge 5k, it was 10, but I was happy with that, too. On the ferry they took 5k (less than 1k for locals, but again….). It took 2,5hrs to Petrohue. Probably it would have been even possible to continue to Cochamo on the RR. Before going to Perrohue, the ferry went to the Rio Conchas bay, again one person was brought to the ferry on a small boat. It would probably have been possible to get on this small boat and to start the RR at the beach.
But my plan was to climb the V. Osorno.

The very nice guy at the Conaf in Petrohue told me, that shops to rent the gear are in Ensenada (Terra SUR, at the junction of the road coming from Peteohue). From Ensenada I hitchhiked to Refugio teskiclub (close to the Ski station, single room: 23k the night, food). The much less friendly Conaf guy at the station there (150m behind the refuge) told me in the evening, that I have to come in the morning and he will not allow me as a solo hiker to go to the summit, if there is no other registrated group. What a stupid rule! Luckily when I started at 5.a.m. in the morning he was obviously sleeping. Just don’t go to the station and you will have no problems! There were groups - and they didn’t registrer. It took me 3 hours first on volcanic gravel, later on steep and harsh snow to get to the summit. Breathtaking view all the time, highly recommended to all gpt-hikers , which are experienced in walking with crampons.

* '''From 2024-12-25 to 2024-12-28 // packrafting // NOBO // rp opt 2 // Nic, Lukas, Basil, Max'''

Starting out from cochamo on Christmas Day we were able to hitch a ride to Ralún after 8km. Went another 25 or so until we camped in an open pasture.

Overall Route is a bit muddy even though it was dry but very passable in these conditions. Tabanos were mental. Sometimes 50 or so swarm you making stopping for more than a few seconds very annoying. They don’t like smoke or night time.

In day two Ford (22.0/226, La Flecha) was difficult to pass and the continuation of the trail is a bit hidden. After the main crossing go all the way down on the right side of the islet and there is a small crossing to the other side where the trail continues.

After the settler at 15.6/232 (Aroldo) we couldn’t find a way to the port farther down (very muddy and no clear path from his house). So we camped a bit farther down from the pack raft route that starts at the last fork. We camped on a sandy bank and were easily able to pack raft out of the shallow waters the next morning.

Starting a 6:30 am in the morning we packrafted approx. 16km to el Callao in about 4-4.5 hours with no wind. Walked and camped at the “hot springs” afterwards. They were basically nonexistent (would have to pay to unlock a weird house with maybe some warm water). We unfortunately talked to the settlers on the way there because there was a cow dying. They were uninterested in the cow and just wanted money for the hot springs. After setting up camp, the settler showed up and awkwardly asked us for 6000 clp each to which we happily paid because we realized we were on their land.

We then took the route over Cerro cenizo. Absolutely worth it but quite technical with the volcanic rocks and snow. Instead of taking the packs up the mountain we went up without and then went back down and around to join up with the route again. The route down is also easy to find. Be aware that el poncho is a bit of a long stretch of houses and the resupply is not where it’s marked currently. There are a few houses on the way that sell stuff but a real Mercado is further down the road in Rupanco.

* '''From 2024-12-20 to 2024-12-23 // packrafting // 3 days // NOBO RR // Mara, Tobias'''

No difficulties and just a few tabanos on this beautiful section. Crossed Lago Todos Los Santos from Rio Petrohue with little wind in 1.5 days. Camped day 2 beside refuge -41.00172, -72.16788 for 6000CPS per person. Laura and Augustin were happy to sell us fresh bread, lettuce and eggs. Trail is in a good condition (compared to other sections). Met no other hikers but friendly settlers.

* '''17th to 20th dec 2024 / / Hiking / sobo var 1 + RR + boat + bus / Allie'''

I attempted the RR over cerro cenizo in bad weather early december and then i had tendinite at my achilles so took a three week break at lago rupanco.
On this trip i hitchhiked to las gaviotas. From there the hike to refugio el callao is easy. The sign says it takes 9 hours to get to the refugio, but it can be done in 6 hours easlily in my opinion. I took a nice break at the termas, which were open by chance. Its two carved out tree trunks. I walked another 3 km to the refugio. +56 9 5018 0447 this is the number of rudi yefi that keeps it. Any boat information can be asked to him.
The 18th i went halfway up the cerro cenizo on a day hike. The trail is easy to follow.
The 19th of december i didnt do anything because of bad weather.
The 20th i went down from the refugio to todos los Santos. Rudis son drives a lancha that brings you to the boat to petrohue. The boat over todos los santos to petrohue costs 5000clp for foreigners. From there i took a bus to puerto varas and then a bus to cochamo.

* '''From 2024-12-8 to 2024-12-11 // 3 day // Hiking // SOBO // Las Gaviotas - RR // Mo'''
Found s.o. who dropped me at Las Gaviotas, then walked to the Termas which were open (luckily), slept there, went down to the beach Puerto El Callao/ El Rincon and waited for my boat I organised beforehand (80000 pesos) that took me to Petrohue.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.

Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.

She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.

80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.

Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).

Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.

The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.

Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).

Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.

* '''2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian'''

From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.

I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.

Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.

From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.

Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!

The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.

Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.

Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.

{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!

Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.

Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.

Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!

Km28.6 : go through the gate.

Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.

Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.

From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.

From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)

Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.

I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.

Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.

For bus schedule:

10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min

* '''2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: Beginning of this is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is the end of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is an extension of GPT21, option 2.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1740951703077375/.]

Overview (sorry for the length):

Since the mountains of Bariloche are a bit of a playground of trails, we did a variation of mainly high trails starting from Laguna Guiterezz and onward to Pampa Linda (joining Option 3 midway) and then followed the "Jesuitos/Vuriloche" route to Ralún (Option 2). We had a few short and a few long days to make a total of 6,5 days.

For the Bariloche part we wanted to go Lago Guiterezz – Lago Frey (via optional valley) – Refugio Jacob – Refugio Italiana (behind which you join Option 3) and out via Lago Ilón to Pampa Linda. However since I banged up my knee I separated from Tomáš. He went on to do the high route as planned from Jacob and I went down the Huella Andina and then back up via the Laguna Azul trail to meet near Laguna Creton.

Re-supply is possible but expensive and with limited variety at Pampa Linda, so bringing most of your food is advised. I restocked on bread (5mil for 1kg or 2.5mil for half) some sweets (2-2.5mil) and had a meal (9mil). There is weak wifi at the tourist info stand (sometimes not working at all, sometimes passing through messages, e-mails and even non-interactive websites, the speed was not a function of the number of people trying to connect) and two campsites (1@4mil, no services apart from toilets and water and 1@8mil with shared electricity and showers).

Highlights of the Bariloche part were indeed mountain vistas, Torre principal of Cerro Catedral lurking everywhere the first two days, rock scrambling and lagoons. The disadvantages were the slow terrain, (a lot of edging on rock/kitty litter dirt/dust on slab/steep tree belaying dirt) and park rules. You have to register online (easy and free, there is a Google form on park's website) and register in person at every Refugio (it is free and if they do not see you, you can get away with not registering, we only actually did it once). Camping is free but it can be annoying because of the amount of people concentrating around refugios. Officially you are only allowed to camp near refugios and at certain designated places, but given the number of tent places along the route, this rule is often breached. We never bought food from the refugios, but that option is out there.

As for the Jesuitos route (Vuriloche) we were lucky because things were dry and therefore the trek was a lot better than expected. The forest walking/mud tunnels felt like Indiana Jones. The biodiversity of mosses and ferns felt like home (West coast of British Columbia) and the valley settler homesteads were picture perfect at times (and smelled like summer houses in central Europe). The trek to Tronador's "Refugio Viejo" was not to be missed and neither were the hot springs near Ford at [101,3/351], if you can get there around nightime. The passing through the border with the Carabineros was alarmingly easy. They did not check our food (we smuggled a tomato!) and they barely asked any questions, they just took our passports and came back with a stamp (no PDI paper). Don't forget to check in with the Argentinian border patrol before leaving, if it wasn't for Tomáš, I would have had to walk back from the carabinieros because I did not think it was necessary since I never got an entry stamp from Argentina in the first place – I was wrong. The Argentinians made us fill out a piece of paper to show to the Chilians and perhaps communicated with them that we were coming.

Things to note:
-The Terrain around Bariloche is very much alpine-like terrain. It is slow and can be dangerous so if you are not comfortable with steep terrain, rock, edging, gullies and possible snow then I suggest choosing the Huella Andina or the regular GPT21 Option 03 (it is comparable to GPT11-GPT12 around Cerro Dedos or the ridge at the end of GPT08) - all of these trails are regularly walked though.
-The mud: it is said that in the wet season or after a recent rain, the trail on the Jesuitos route gets so muddy that it may be impassable. From what we saw, most of the mud tunnels were very dry so I think it would take a hard rain to make it impassable.
-The mosquitos were a thing but we were only "swarmed " in our camp spot on the other side of Cayute (and we built our tent once for lunch against them). Horse flies seem to be dying off but they were crazy around the Carabinieros.
- Option 2C on the North side of Rio Blanco is not meant for pedestrians, there is a sign saying for pedestrians to stay on the Right (South). Maybe it is because of the ford over Rio Blanco (one out of the two bridges still exist, the first one on the west side) or maybe the settlers are not interested in hikers. There is a skinny suspension bridge over the river at the hotsprings (300 m SE from the ford waypoint) but you can easily ford as well. Some of the bridges on OSM are broken and nonexistent [was corrected in summer 2024].
- we got a hitch for only the last 4km of the Laguna Cayute road, then hitched slowly to Puerto Varas for food and a rest.

The details:

We started by getting out of Bariloche by a city bus number 41 (0.2 USD per person, goes every 30 minutes, Google maps or Moovit [more precise] have the schedules, you need to have a SUBE card [available at bus terminals] valid in all of Argentina, topping it online is seemingly impossible, in theory there are many small shops that can top it up [they are marked SUBE, the SUBE app has their locations] but we got lucky only at the third such shop) to Villa Lago Guiterezz and then hitchhiking to the southern end of Lago Guiterezz, where we started walking along a very crowded beach and then in-the-evening-decidedly-not-crowded lakeshore to a beach at the mouth of Arroy van Titter. We then walked towards Lago Frey by taking a partialy (it is probably cleared from time to time) overgrown but beautiful valley just south of the main route. It was slow and swampy (cca for 2 km/1 hour but had little people and offered impressive views of Cerro Catedral south and it's towers. Through this we bypassed the Refugio Frey and made our way to the first of many passes near Laguna Schmoll. The way up is simple scrambling anyone can do, but the way down was a mix of slow edging and sand sliding (it is probably a lot less travelled). We waited until the heat of the day ended to make our way up the second pass above Refugio Jacob. For this second pass it was easy walking on the way up, but the way down was once again slow edging on relatively steep terrain. We registered and camped at Refugio Jacob to have an early start on the next day. The Refugio and campsites were packed and felt cramped.

I had a bad encounter with a log that morning and my knee was banged up so the next day Tomáš and I split. He went on to the high route and I went down the Huella Andina and up again to a meeting spot near Lago Laguna Creton via Laguna Azul.

As for getting down the Huella Andina it was slower than expected but fine, and getting up to Azul was fast but more involved than expected. The last 200 vertical meters was low angle slab beside a waterfall, which was fun for going up but maybe not so fun for the way down. The rest of the way to Creton and camping was easy with fun slabby terrain.

Tomáš's report:

I went from Refugio Jacob to Refugio Italiano through Pico Refugio and then to Pampa Linda through laguna Illón. It took me two full days. The warden at Jacob told us that the route to Refugio Italiano was closed due to snow (a lot fell late in spring), so I met no one on the route, though I saw a set of footprints that were at most from the previous day. The route is mostly marked by cairns, sometimes it is invisible and sometimes you can see a painted sign (there is little consistency in terms of shape or colour of the marking) but is easy to follow with a map. The climb to Pico Refugio was easy scrambling. There were bolted rings that you can use to secure a rope but I did not think it was dangerous to climb unsecured. It was never vertical, the holds were good. It took me 10-15 minutes to get through this section of maybe 50 vertical meters. SAC 5 or slightly under. A much less vertical zigzagging route appeared then on that went to a pass still before Pico Refugio. From then on I sometimes did walk on snow but it was soft without any creeks eating it from underneath so I felt safe. It took me four hours to get to Cerro Navidad. The gully from there was mostly under snow for about 300 vertical meters. I went down on the snow until a creek started flowing under it from left. Then I stayed on the left side of the undersnow creek or on bare rocks. Lower in the valley the route was a bit eroded and there was even a short (20 metres - SAC 4 at most) fixed rope but it was not too difficult to get down. It was not easy walking though even in the valley, one crosses the stream several times and there are big stones even in the forrest (SAC 3). I took the first OSM route left to Refugio Italiano. It was quite (but not fully) vertical, but easy, I did use my hands and it was fun. It took me four hours from Cerro Navidad to Refugio Italiano, where there were lots (40?) of people at 4 PM.

I continued along the lake, where there was even a section with steps on the stone made out of metal rods (10 metres, SAC 3-4). This part is frequented and so was easy. It continued to be easy until Laguna CAB (though I lost the route several times going up in the forest). I reached the lake before dusk. I met two people on the near end of the lake. There were several people on the far end of the lake, where there are lots of mosquitoes, not recommended to camp. There is no trail around the lake - one fords the lake along its shore for about 1 km, it is not deep. I started going up to Cerro CAB. It is steep and was at first muddy but the route is clear enough in the bush and then marked by cairns on the rocky section (SAC 2-3). I reached the pass when it started to be fully dark. I continued the horizontal traverse (SAC 3-4) with a headlamp but 800 metres took me almost 40 minutes so I stopped before the route starts descending (thank God for the InRreach to InRreach messaging, I could let Natalie know I would not make it that night – the next day it took me four additional hours to get where she was camping). It was hard to follow the cairns as one just walks on bare rocks with no visible trail whatsoever, sometimes using hands to go up or down a a few metres. There is a nice horizontal miniplateau ideal for sleeping on a warm windless night (no mosquitoes!) with plentiful water from the melting snow.

In the morning, I woke up to a splendid view of Tronador. I went down, at first again using my hands here and there (SAC 4), but not much. Mosquitoes during daytime in the valley, which is actually a pass you reach from above. The climb to the pass at Cerro Cristal is clear trail at first but the last 150 vertical metres is a diagonal upward traverse walking on large slabs or wedges made out of pure granite. Their slope is good and I thought it was fun and it is quite scenic (SAC 3-4). Going down to Laguna Creton is steep and the route is sometimes a bit hard to find but it is not too hard (SAC 3). I saw one tent around Laguna Creton and met about six people going my direction to Laguna Illón, where there were dozens of people at 4 PM. Going down I met over a dozen prople either going my way or going up (and then I met Natalie of course).

Altogether, this traverse took me to routes that are not overun with people and are quite nice with lots of views (Cerro Cathedral is a scary darling that has that name for a reason), being mostly above the tree line. However, the route is demanding – you will be happy to cover 1,5 km per hour. It seems many people go up to a refugio, spend the night and go down again, so the aproach routes to refugios are more popular than the connecting traverses between them. These routes seemed to be in quite good shape thanks to that.

From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).

The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).

* '''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

TLDR: Very enjoyable section; No mentionable difficulties; Packraft Lago Todos Los Santos in the morning if you can, as wind will pick up in the afternoon; Great chats with the settlers along the way

From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).

We hiked the next day on RP to wp Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] and stayed the night. Rudi wasn’t there and the hot tubs were closed. It was an easy hike all the way. There we met Alejandro, Sergio’s son, who mentioned that Sergio doesn’t live in the valley anymore - it’s him and his mother now, so no more beers, but Alejandro speaks fluent English, which made it easier for us to connect :). If you want to get in touch with him, connect through his insta @valleelcallao.

The next day we continued on RR, took variant 21-A and camped at wp Port {21} [29.9/204] (El Callao) right by the beach. We met Rudi there and had a lovely chat with him.

* We started paddling early the next day, crossed Lago Todos los Santos in ard 4 hours and went to shore at wp Lake {21} [53.6/200]. We continued to wp River, Camp {21} [61.1/237] (Rio Conchas) where we went into the water again to paddle the short RP upstream river segment and across Lago Cayutue. It was not the best idea to paddle there in the afternoon, as headwinds on the lake were strong. However it’s a short stretch and going back would have cost more time, so we managed, and the landscape from the lake is really amazing. We stayed the night at wp Lake, Camp {21} [64.1/233]. Beautiful place!

We went to the parking lot at wp Settler {21} [63.4/448] the next morning and were offered a ride down the valley by some lovely people, so we hitchhiked to Cochamó.

* '''2023-12-12 to 2023-12-14 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR / Roman'''

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos all the way to the start of the RR. Beginning was a bit overgrown nothing bad but a bit annoying (7km) [in hindsight I wouldn't consider it BB but close before it, still doable and worth it]. Snow stating at 1350m good to hike as soon as you are out the forest. Down the other side: watch the GPS the entry in the forest can be easily missed and trust the GPS. There are some marks in the bark. The point is here: -40.956873, -72.183669. Trust the GPS and after ~100m you will find a "proper" trail (visible easy to follow). Stayed at the Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] [Rudi brought some people NoBo with the Boat). The trail from there to the lake is at the beginning for 5k a bit annoying due to a lot of vegitation (no BB). The frist bridge after Rudi is a bit sketchy, i crawled over it, because there is nothing to hold on, some planks ate missing and some are badly damaged [https://imgur.com/a/piW3AI3]. After that the bridges getting better. Pacrafted the next day to Camp ? {21} [52.2+1.0/196]. Startet Packrafting at 02:00 PM pitched tent at 08:00 PM. Conditions where good. Waited for a window of no wind to cross the lake to the other bank. A lot of exit possibilities there a lot more settlers than on the map. Overall it was a quite day; wind was mainly from west. Got on shore here: Lake {21} [53.6/200]. Trail after that easy and beautiful! Hitchhiked to Cochamó from here: -41.316407, -72.273071.

Overall: beginning a but annoying due to dense vegetation (no BB). After that the trail is ok and is good after the crossing. Would reccomend it even if the beginning is annoying and after Rudi also vegetation but the views are worth it!

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.

The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.

We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.

We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.

Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2022-NOV-25 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR and OR A / Yannic & Mirjam'''
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.
All the ways were in good condition, but sometimes a bit muddy. So maybe not that easy after heavy rainfalls

* '''2022-NOV-3 / 3 days / NOBO /hiking / RR / Frank'''
From Cochamo I walked 15KM on the road to Ralun crossroad (see transport section) Basic shop Minimercado El Cruce at Ralun Cross. Then 9KM on a good dirt road with a little traffic to 'Pass 510 metres'. You could probably hitch part of this if you want. After the pass the road deteriorates to a rough track. Cross a log bridge before Lago Cayutue. Beautiful campsite by the lake, one of the best on the GPT so far. On day 2 I walked to Lago todos los Santos & met Eduardo. He lives at the first house you come to NOBO just before the lake. He was busy & his boat was out of the water but agreed to take me for 80,000 CLP. Other houses & boats there are owned by weekenders who are rarely present. I believe Eduardo is your only option NOBO. However he said he is usually there & only goes to town occasionally. The crossing is spectacular with views of Osorno, Tronador & Puntiagudo.

I continued to the camp at the hot spring. The spring is in a locked shed & there is a basic refuge there, also locked. Rudy came by on his horse in the evening to open the shed. 10,000 CLP to camp & use the spring. If you want to be sure the spring or refuge are open then call in at Refugio dos Condores NOBO. Note the location marked for Refugio dos Condores on Openstreetmap which is used by Gaia & other apps is not correct. The location marked on the track files is the correct one. After Refugio dos Condores you cross a small bridge & on a ridge there are two signs saying Aguas Calientes 2KM. Don't follow the track file here but go down left at the signs on a trail, cross a small stream & go up to a meadow with some farm houses. Go out flat across the meadow with the houses on your right, continuing on a trail in the forest. After 1.5KM you rejoin the track file. This is much easier than the track file route (I used the 2019 track file)

Day 3: Pay attention after Pass 830M, there are a lot of switchbacks in the forest & the route is not obvious. Laguna los Quetros is also a very nice camp but I continued to Las Gaviotas. Got the ferry out at 8PM. This unscheduled ferry does not connect to a bus. I walked out 3KM to Entre Rios, cheap camping, cabanas & basic shop. The campsite has tap water & rabbits but no toilet or shower. The entire route has now been cut back, hardly any bush bashing. There are quite a few mud wallows on the track but you can go around them. Part of the route is on sunken trails & it's likely to flood out & be a mudbath after rain.

* '''2022-Oct-17 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Alice & Florian'''

We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day) and spent the day in the park around Petrohue. They are nice few hours walk on the volcano Osorno, near the the lake and in the forest, and the CONAF team is really nice there (kept our backpacks).
Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

After reaching Cayutue, the trail is easy to find, a little bit muddy but okay for us after a few days of sun.
We slept at the camp # indicated on the tracks.
We arrived the next day around 4PM on the intersection between the trail and the road to Cochamo. There was no bus, but hitchhiking was easy.
We slept at the hostel Arcoiris. It is quite cheap as we paid 15000 pesos per person for a double private room, the kitchen is available and well equipped. You can camp as well if you are not tired of it :)

One another piece of information. The CONAF guys in Petrohue told us that they are planning to maintain and put more signalization on La ruta de los jesuitas. This trail comes from Argentina and crosses the Lago de todos los santos until the Rio Blanco. There you can join the main route of the GPT with an optional route.
Considering this information, it will be an additional argument for Jan to change this optional route to the main one.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Dec-13 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We took the bus from Puerto Varas towards Cochamó, but got dropped at the road about 15 km before and started directly on the gravel road. The bus leaves quite a few times, but you have to ask around for the specific times. We took it at 13, and I think it left at least once more that day. The employees at the different outdoor stores know pretty well where the bus leaves from and who to ask. We camped at the spot marked "camping" near a small lake, it was quite nice, near a river as well. We got to Lago Todos Los Santos around 13 and asked at the first house marked on the GPS. It's situated on a hill behind three newly built vacation houses. Eduardo who lives there came out as soon as the dogs started barking, and was immediately ready to take us across the lake. The place where you want to get dropped of is called El Rincón. We were charged 70.000 pesos like other people have said as well.
On the second day we camped right after the first "bridge" waypoint.
Termas:
The third day we went to the termas. On the way there, you pass Rudy's house - it's about two hours before the termas. They have a cabin which is about 8000 CLP and sell breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as bread, honey, eggs and so on. They also have the option to camp at the termas which is 7000 CLP for camping and access. They have a wooden tub in a small shed, so you need to get the key from them - easiest going nobo as you pass their house. We later found out that there is a second option. A guy who lives in the house right next to the termas has made his own, it's more natural looking with rocks, and it's outside and more private. You have to knock on his house for him to show you. We actually thought it was nicer, but didn't hear the price. He is also a really nice guy who offers trips to Cerro cenizas with great views of Volcán Puntiagudo if he has time. It's a one day trip according to him. The last part of the trail to Las Gaviotas was fairly easy, although with a lot of confusing trails that ultimately seem to go the same way.
Las Gaviotas:
In Las Gaviotas there are a few different options for sleeping. There seem to be two or three different people with cabañas, there's a nice camping ground right on the beach with toilets, and we saw a tent further down on the beach which didn't seem to bother anyone. There is a very small shop in a shed on the beach with a few snacks and sodas, and it's possible to buy some bread, eggs and honey but definitely no resupply options. The beach was beautiful and good for swimming!
Access/exit:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. Puerto Buey is even smaller than Las Gaviotas. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but maybe there are more buses from there. As has been written before, it's possible to walk to Puerto Buey along a gravel road by the lake.

* '''2021-Nov-29 to 2021-Nov-30/ 1,5 days / hiking / NOBO / OR: Lago Todos Los Santos - Cerro Cenizo - Volcan Puntiagudo ridge - Lago Rupanco / Alex Abramov'''

This new variant is not the same as GPT21 option 4: it is easier and more logical. Easy/Moderate difficulty.
Rudy Jefi and his refugio are still in business (the price for boat from Petrohue 70.000), but Camping Las Nalcas and Mini Mercado Rupanco were closed.

* '''2021-Nov-17 to 2021-Nov-21 / 5 days / Packrafting and Hiking / Traverse of Lago Todos Los Santos, Option 2 Rio Blanco and Ruta de los Jesuitas (Vuriloche) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

We started this season at Petrohue on the western end of Lago Todos los Santos. Access by bus to Petrohue is easy (Bus from Puerto Varas every 20 to 30 min). Petrohue is a suitable starting point for packrafters that travel southbound with heavier fjord-suitable packrafting equipment.

Lago Todos los Santos: can get very rough with wind but we had two calm days with moderate wind in the late afternoon only. We paddled 40 km in two easy days. Only few of the originally dozens of settlers are still living on the shore and mostly the rich and super-rich of Chile have build vacation homes on the often steep coastline. But since the access to lakes and lake shores is legally guaranteed in Chile, this should not cause a significant problem.

Rio Blanco: 6 years ago we met a settler from Rio Blanco who confirmed that a horse trail traverses this valley and connects to the Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche). Now we came to investigate and record this route. The well maintained trail includes two river crossings that are well fordable in the morning after some reasonable dry days. Packrafters can cross these fords by packraft if the water level is elevated but hiker may struggle after heavy rain.

Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche): A well maintained but muddy horse trail connects to Lago Cayetue. Three river generally easy river crossings may become difficult to pass after heavy rain.

Conclusion: Connecting from El Callao to Rio Blanco requires a shorter and more wind protected lake traverse (compared to the current regular route to Cayetue) making it an attractive option for packrafters and southbound hikers if the weather is reasonable dry. I’m considering to change the Regular Route for this option and recommend the route via Cayetue in bad weather only.

El Callao to Cayetue: 22 km on direct route
El Callao to Rio Blanco: 14 km on direct route

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-04 to 2020-Jan-06 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

I accessed the southbound start of this section by walking 7km east from El Poncho on the dirt road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco (=Oh-Mr-V@20-0a-#001). From settlers Sergio and Sandro, I learned that Esteban is an alternative to Rudy for crossing Lago Todos los Santos. Esteban was able to take me immediately, whereas around the same time Linda (see below) unfortunately had to wait a couple of days. My experience of the rest of section was similar to others’.

* '''2020-Jan-03 to 2020-Jan-06 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

Starting on the beach of the North shore of Lago Rupanco (arriving from GPT20). Waypoint in Las Gaviotas Food and Lodging is great! Nelly prepared me a big glass of fresh raspberry juice.

Trail to Lago Todos Los Santos is easy and very nice. Only problem = the horse flies that loved me and I had at least 50 around me!

Stop at Las Termas! Beside the cold river, you will find a cabana with 2 bath tubes carved in wood full of hot thermal water. Amazing to camp and rest here.

Next house you will see on the trail is the one of Sergio. Very nice guy. He makes artisanal beer if you want to try one of them!

Then, as mentioned by Martin, in Refugio Dos cóndores, you can ask for the boat transfer of Lago Todos Los Santos to Rudy Jefi. 80000 CLP. I did and had to wait 2 days before crossing.

Other possibility for the boat transfer : when you arrive on the shore of Lago Todos Los Santos, ask the last house on the beach (waypoint = Settler) for Esteban. Same price 80000 CLP but you won't have necessarily to wait cause he seems to be more available than Rudy. Very nice man who offered me food and Lodging before I could cross the lake with Rudy! Say hello from me if you see him!!!

Between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Cayutué, trail not maintained for about 2 kilometers. Easiest way to overcome the obstacles is to go on the left in the open fields and then go back on the track. Not that difficult but expect to be slow.

Then, after Lago Cayutué, no problem. Easy Hitchiki'g to Cochaml where you will find everything to resupply. Very good accommodation = Patagonia Nativa!

* '''2019-DEC-23 to 2019-DEC-24 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Martín Lizondo'''

Trail perfectly walkable. Ask Rudy Yefi in Dos Condores for boat transfer to Pto. Cayuthue (CLP 80.000). After crossing Lago de Todos los Santos the minor road finishes in a 1 km unmantained trail. After 1 km the trail becomes opened and it gets better as you aproach to Laguna Cayuthue. River crossings are easy, less than knee level. From Ralun there’s a bus stop to Cochamó or Pto. Montt.

* '''2019-OCT-07 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

Refugio Las Termas is a great spot to camp out. Beside the cold river, the hot springs and the fire in the refugio are very nice after a hiking day.

* '''2019-NOV-01 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

The part between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todo Los Santos is a bit tricky. The last winter(s?) damaged the trail a lot. Rivercrossings are up to knee deep and there is a lot of trees and debris on the trail. In wide parts it is easyer to walk to the right or left of it. Also at one point it is likely that you have to jump/crawl some barbed wire to get around some fallen trees. In some parts it is bush bashing. Expect to be slow in this part.

The river crossing south of Lago Cayutué is easier a little bit further south than indicated by the track files. There is a tree as a bridge.

* '''2019-OCT-30 to 2019-NOV-04 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR from one km east of Ralun / Sophie & Hendrik'''

First day we camped at Lago Cayutué. Second day (to Lago Todos Los Santos) we had bad weather and were a lot slower than expected. (The trail is very damaged in this part, see recent alerts.) Due to health issues we stoped here and went to Puerto Varas for some days. We reentered the trail and only looked for a goat free campsite on our first day back (some 50min of walking). The next stops before we made it to the end of the section were Refugio Las Termas (we highly recommend to take a bath here) and Laguna Los Quetros.

What we liked: Very nice woods, beautiful lakes, very friendly and sympathetic people, crossing Todos Los Santos in an open boat in very heavy rain was harsh but beautiful, the termas, funny animals on the way.

What we did not like so much: In very long parts extremely muddy (probably depends on the season), the trail conditions between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todos Los Santos (which forced us to crawl beneath barbed wire).

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Shopping: Food
Cochamó: Possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but expensive. Some restaurants and many housing options.
Minimercado El Cruce at junction with the gravel road in Ralun, very basic. They have drinks, probably wine & possibly pasta.
There is a kiosk in Las Gaviotas by the beach with basic snacks & drinks but its opening hours are irregular.
On the road 1KM before Ralun NOBO there is a food truck but it only opens in the evenings after 5PM & may be closed in low season.
There are no other resupply options along the road Cochamo-Ralun although there are cabanas about every 4KM, some may provide food if you stay there.

*Services: Laundry
A local woman offers a laundry service from her home a few houses down a side street from the main road in Cochamó.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is nice camping at the small, scenic Laguna Los Quetros (Km6) near the northern start of the section. At the highly recommended Las Termas, around Km13, there is a small cabana with bath tubs carved of wood and full of hot thermal water. Settlers along the trail are interesting and welcoming.

*2022 / Yannic & Mirjam
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m.
(...)
We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted.

=Transport to and from Route=

*Southbound and northbound hiking is feasible and recommended. It may be easier to arrange a southbound than a northbound boat crossing of Lago Todos de Los Santos.

*2023 December / Lauren & Sebastian
Southbound from Entre Lagos to Las Gaviotas:

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to intersection south of Lago Rupanco, from there we continued to hitchhike for a bit, but eventually a bus came (around 3:30 pm, CLP 1500 per person, I’m not sure where started though…) that brought us to Puerto Poncho, from there we took the ferry to Las Gaviotas (4:30 pm, CLP200 per person)

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals.

*2022 / Alice & Florian
We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day).Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

*Access to Start

Northbound:
The bus leaves Puerto Montt main bus terminal (07:45, 12:00, 3:30PM & 5PM on weekdays, runs on weekends also but weekend schedule may differ) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada & Ralun to Cochamó. Get off at Ralun crossroads (intersection with a small gravel road near Minimercado EL Cruce) if you don`t want to walk 15KM on the road from Cochamo to Ralun.

Southbound:
Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday 7:00 & 16:30 Wednesday 2:30 PM, Friday 7:00 & 16:30, Sunday 15:00. Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus. Ferry Puerto Buey-Las Gaviotas Monday or Tuesday 8:00 & 17:30, Wednesday 15:30, Friday 8:00 & 17:30, Sunday 16:00. A bus coming from Osorno outside Terminal Rural goes to Puerto Buey to connect with the ferry on operational days, timetable not known. Ask at info. desk in Osorno Terminal Rural. No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
In addition to accessing through GPT20, it is possible to take private transportation on the road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco and walk the final 5-7km to the northern start point of GPT21.

*Return from Finish

Northbound:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but there are more busses from there.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT21 - Lago Todos Los Santos]]

=Images=

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2025-12-26T18:47:57Z

Nimrod:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* ''2025-12-15 to 2025-12-18 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Variant D), OH4 (up and down), OH1 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel + Shay''

15/12
Restaurante El Caulle → Refugio El Caulle

We paid 15000 CLP per person at Santiago hut.

The initial section of the ascent was muddy and relatively flat. The final section was steeper and slippery due to heavy rain.
Several water sources were available along the way; water was collected as there was none at the refuge.
Dense fog developed near the top.
Reached the refuge, which was littered with trash.
Overnight stay at the refuge.

Distance: 8.46 km
Elevation gain: 1,077 m
Elevation loss: 35 m

16/12
Refugio El Caulle → 40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W

Morning ascent to the summit over snow-covered volcanic terrain, with steeper slopes near the top.
At the crater, conditions included snow and strong winds with limited visibility. Decided against doing 4B option.
The descent was rapid, including sliding on snow in sections.
Continued hiking through cloud cover with multiple ascents and descents over snowfields, some with deep post-holing.
Observed colorful geothermal features and geysers.
Strong winds and cloud cover persisted at higher elevations, limiting views.

Camped near a river despite potential risk.

Distance: 18 km
Elevation gain: 1,688 m
Elevation loss: 1,515 m

17/12
40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W → 40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W

Started the day with rain. Wet conditions throughout, including steep ascents and descents on a faint, rarely used trail.
Water availability was limited until reaching the river.
Reached hot springs in rainy conditions and stopped for an extended rest.
Continued toward geothermal fields with notable geysers, then descended into forested terrain.
The campsite was established on the trail due to lack of better options, water availability remained limited.

Distance: 24.8 km
Elevation gain: 1,037 m
Elevation loss: 1,616 m

18/12
40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W → 40.3861952°S, 72.0805632°W

Freshly painted black gate about 100 meters from where Variant D and RR meet, after debating we decided to cross it. and when back a bit to hector house, talked with Erwin and filled some water.

Got a ride from the main road.

Distance: 13 km
Elevation gain: 184 m
Elevation loss: 858 m

* '''2025-12-16 to 2025-12-19 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR OH4a (turned around) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle and Sander'''
Impressive Puyehue vulcano! Made long days to squeeze trip in between bad weather but still had a lot of rain and wind on day 2. All indicated water points had water. Paid 15.000 each to a young woman who called Santiago when we showed up at the lodge at the start of the RR. We came by bus from Osorno and the bus driver helped to directly transfer to a bus to anticura so that was very smooth. At the end we walked option 2 until Pocura, hitchhiking no luck, when a bus showed up around 14h45 all the way to Rio Bueno.

Two important additions to what has been said before:

1. OH4a over the crater rim. We did it nobo with our backpacks, some steep parts but fine and quite some recent snow. Clouds and wind came in at the end of the day so we only saw the crater for some magical minutes. When reaching the northern part where the tracks go down again we bumped into quite steep snow/icefield. With strong wind and clouds we had very bad visibility and couldn’t see an alternative route. Would be a very bad place to fall so we turned around and were back at the RR after 20 o’clock and very tired. Actually on satellite images you can see the build up of snow at that point. Can imagine the size can fluctuate lots depending on weather.

2. When arriving at hectors place on our third day we followed the last km the gravel road of 19D but a large brand new locked gate with lots of barbed wire has been erected. Calling Erwin’s number as below wasn’t working neither we had enough internet for WhatsApp. Barking dogs but no one answered our ‘hola!’s. We climbed back to the RR and on the way took some water at a little stream around -40.43132, -72.11323. When following the RR to hectors house it seemed no one was there. The dogs came loudly barking, still no one came and the only way to calm the dogs was to keep walking further and we slipped through a locked gate with barbed wire and the dogs left. We continued a few km and a nice person at the next house advised us a camping spot on a communal space after a gate which you can open around -40.40713, -72.10952 and there should be clean water. We actually didn’t camp there because he underestimated it at 200 meters, but after 800 meters still didn’t see a gate and we found many other nice spots. Next day we found out it was just 100 meters further haha. Theres a beautiful river there as well!

We actually met Nimrod and friends on their way down to hectors place. Maybe they met someone who could explain the new gate?

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*2025 / Antoine
Futrono: several supermarkets, most open on Sundays. But they didn't have screw-type gas canisters. I was lucky to find one at Ferretería O'Higgins Futrono +56 9 6122 5722 (opened just for me, nice guy)
Anticura accomodation:Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]).
Camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
Restaurant is nice. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP

* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354781.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
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[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354773.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2025-12-26T18:47:19Z

Nimrod: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

*'''2025-12-15 to 2025-12-18 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Variant D), OH4 (up and down), OH1 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel + Shay''

15/12
Restaurante El Caulle → Refugio El Caulle

We paid 15000 CLP per person at Santiago hut.

The initial section of the ascent was muddy and relatively flat. The final section was steeper and slippery due to heavy rain.
Several water sources were available along the way; water was collected as there was none at the refuge.
Dense fog developed near the top.
Reached the refuge, which was littered with trash.
Overnight stay at the refuge.

Distance: 8.46 km
Elevation gain: 1,077 m
Elevation loss: 35 m

16/12
Refugio El Caulle → 40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W

Morning ascent to the summit over snow-covered volcanic terrain, with steeper slopes near the top.
At the crater, conditions included snow and strong winds with limited visibility. Decided against doing 4B option.
The descent was rapid, including sliding on snow in sections.
Continued hiking through cloud cover with multiple ascents and descents over snowfields, some with deep post-holing.
Observed colorful geothermal features and geysers.
Strong winds and cloud cover persisted at higher elevations, limiting views.

Camped near a river despite potential risk.

Distance: 18 km
Elevation gain: 1,688 m
Elevation loss: 1,515 m

17/12
40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W → 40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W

Started the day with rain. Wet conditions throughout, including steep ascents and descents on a faint, rarely used trail.
Water availability was limited until reaching the river.
Reached hot springs in rainy conditions and stopped for an extended rest.
Continued toward geothermal fields with notable geysers, then descended into forested terrain.
The campsite was established on the trail due to lack of better options, water availability remained limited.

Distance: 24.8 km
Elevation gain: 1,037 m
Elevation loss: 1,616 m

18/12
40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W → 40.3861952°S, 72.0805632°W

Freshly painted black gate about 100 meters from where Variant D and RR meet, after debating we decided to cross it. and when back a bit to hector house, talked with Erwin and filled some water.

Got a ride from the main road.

Distance: 13 km
Elevation gain: 184 m
Elevation loss: 858 m

* '''2025-12-16 to 2025-12-19 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR OH4a (turned around) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle and Sander'''
Impressive Puyehue vulcano! Made long days to squeeze trip in between bad weather but still had a lot of rain and wind on day 2. All indicated water points had water. Paid 15.000 each to a young woman who called Santiago when we showed up at the lodge at the start of the RR. We came by bus from Osorno and the bus driver helped to directly transfer to a bus to anticura so that was very smooth. At the end we walked option 2 until Pocura, hitchhiking no luck, when a bus showed up around 14h45 all the way to Rio Bueno.

Two important additions to what has been said before:

1. OH4a over the crater rim. We did it nobo with our backpacks, some steep parts but fine and quite some recent snow. Clouds and wind came in at the end of the day so we only saw the crater for some magical minutes. When reaching the northern part where the tracks go down again we bumped into quite steep snow/icefield. With strong wind and clouds we had very bad visibility and couldn’t see an alternative route. Would be a very bad place to fall so we turned around and were back at the RR after 20 o’clock and very tired. Actually on satellite images you can see the build up of snow at that point. Can imagine the size can fluctuate lots depending on weather.

2. When arriving at hectors place on our third day we followed the last km the gravel road of 19D but a large brand new locked gate with lots of barbed wire has been erected. Calling Erwin’s number as below wasn’t working neither we had enough internet for WhatsApp. Barking dogs but no one answered our ‘hola!’s. We climbed back to the RR and on the way took some water at a little stream around -40.43132, -72.11323. When following the RR to hectors house it seemed no one was there. The dogs came loudly barking, still no one came and the only way to calm the dogs was to keep walking further and we slipped through a locked gate with barbed wire and the dogs left. We continued a few km and a nice person at the next house advised us a camping spot on a communal space after a gate which you can open around -40.40713, -72.10952 and there should be clean water. We actually didn’t camp there because he underestimated it at 200 meters, but after 800 meters still didn’t see a gate and we found many other nice spots. Next day we found out it was just 100 meters further haha. Theres a beautiful river there as well!

We actually met Nimrod and friends on their way down to hectors place. Maybe they met someone who could explain the new gate?

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*2025 / Antoine
Futrono: several supermarkets, most open on Sundays. But they didn't have screw-type gas canisters. I was lucky to find one at Ferretería O'Higgins Futrono +56 9 6122 5722 (opened just for me, nice guy)
Anticura accomodation:Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]).
Camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
Restaurant is nice. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP

* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354781.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354783.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354857.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354866.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354871.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354758.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354765.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354768.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354769.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354773.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2025-12-10T03:09:13Z

Nimrod: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* GPT21 5-8/12/25 / 4 days / Hiking / WEBO / OH03 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel

5/12 — Colonia Suiza → Laguna Negra

Took a bus to Colonia Suiza (using SUBE card but you can just use your credit as well).
The ascent to the lagoon was mostly easy and well marked with a steeper section toward the end.

Distance: 11 km
Ascent: 963 m
Descent: 163 m

6/12 — Laguna Negra → Campsite After the Pass (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W)

After breakfast at the hut, we packed and began the climb to the first pass, which offered an impressive reflection of Laguna Negra.
We then continued ascending toward Laguna CAB on a partially marked and steep trail. We did some bush bashing but connected to the trail after 10 or so minutes. The GPX is fairly accurate and it easy to miss the marks. The weather was hot, and there were many biting flies. ( bring some fly spray) We took our shoes off and crossed the lagoon from the other side (the gpx trail is from the opposite side but longer) along its edge and stopped for lunch.
Afterward, we climbed another pass with beautiful views. The beginning of the ascent was not clearly marked.
During the descent, Shmuel and Shai lost track of unintentionally followed a difficult scrambling route. The Route is marked with rock cairns but easy to miss.

Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 1,067 m
Descent: 1,176 m

7/12 — Campsite (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W) → Laguna Ilón

Well marked, steep accents and decents. (Need to use hands for sure). Mostly well marked, a bit confusing near Jujuy. It was an hoilday and a lot of people camped at the laguna. Campsite is 20000 pesos per person. I was told after I paid there is a wild camping spot pretty closeby.

Distance: 12.5 km
Ascent: 955 m
Descent: 1,058 m

8/12 — Laguna Ilón → Pampa Linda

Easy route down, and well marked. The road is closed till 16:00, rested by the river till then. Was super easy to hitchhike back to bariloche. Maybe because of the holiday. Where is a weak free wifi near the visiter center.

Distance: 8.5 km
Ascent: 112 m
Descent: 632 m

Annoyances : the horse fly bite ever through the shirt, bring some bug spray

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 5/5

* '''GPT21 / 2025-12-01 and 02 / 2 days / Packrafting Sobo / Option 5A and Lago Cayetue side trip / Lago Todos los Santos from Petrohue to Lago Cayetue / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This route is a suitable southbound season start for packrafters with heavier packrafting gear that wish to minimize hiking in favor of more packrafting.

Public transportation to Petrohue at the western terminus of Lago Todos los Santos is simple. Take a minibus from the Puerto Montt bus station to Puerto Varas (every 5 to 10 minutes) and tell the bus driver that you wish to take another minibus to Petrohue. The bus drive will drop you off in the center of Puerto Varas at a bus stop where the buses to Petrohue stop (every 30 minutes).

In Petrohue are two camp sites on the other side (southern) of the slow moving river just where Lago Todos los Santos ends and drains into Rio Petrohue. Packrafters best stay at one of these camp sites to start paddling with the first light on the next morning when conditions are typically calmer. Motor boats bring people to these camp sites (boat crossing 1000 CLP / camping 5000 CLP) so packrafters don’t need to inflate the boat for a 50 m river crossing.

Wind typically blows westbound on the lake main body. The lake arm Cayetue is generally less windy but the typical wind blows northbound (“viento sur”). On a typical sunny day wind starts between 10:00 and 12:00 and calms down after 18:00. Therefore starting very early is the best strategy to complete the lake crossing in one day.

There are quite some emergency exits along the water route if wind and waves force you out of the water. Note that most buildings along the shore are now vacation retreats of the rich and super-rich and not the homes of settlers. A good number of these luxury buildings are equipped alarm systems so be cautious when exploring these upscale buildings to avoid a visit by caretaker. If you are forced to camp somewhere along the shore then best choose a hidden spot that is not easily visible from water nor from the buildings.

We packrafted in 6 hours from Petrohue to Cayetue. The best lake exit is just west of Rio Conchas (41° 13′ 40.5″ S / 72° 16′ 0.8″ W) and not as indicated in the track files at the small port. This extends the water route by 1.5 km and reduces hiking by the same distance.

The trail from the lake exit to Lago Cayetue is well maintained.

Lago Cayetue and Rio Conchas is a nice side trip. You can packraft the Rio Conchas from the lake drain 1 km downstream (very little flow) and from lake feed 2.5 km upstream.

Hikers that need a northbound boat transfer from Cayetue may call Eduardo (+56 9 7515 2075). He is a caretaker of the vacation retreat where Rio Conchas flows into Lago Todos los Santos.

* '''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Daniel.s'''

Started at Puerto Poncho, from Entre Lagos hitchhiking is the only way. Plan a half day to get anywhere on this side of Lago Rupanco.

Day 1: Paddling is straight forward, tailwind in the afternoon usually. The hike from las Gaviotas is easy to find and maintained, used by cattle at L. Los Quetros, where I camped (no one there). In summer tabanos and mud (after rain) will be your dominant enemies.

Day 2: hiked all the way to Lago Todos los Santos, trail easily followabel. At arrival (~15:00) wind was moderate at shore, strong in the middle of the lake, made a few kilometers to a little sheltered beach (S 41° 03.993', W 072° 11.689') where I spent the night.

Day 3:
Early start (4:30am) to use the calm hours. Arrived at southern end ( S 41° 13.706', W 072° 16.019') around 11am, then hiked to L. Cayutué and up to the parking for the day-hikers (S 41° 18.052', W 072° 16.309') where I got a lift all the way to Cochamó quickly (to avoid hiking down 10 kms of dusty gravel road).

'''2025-01-21 to 2025-01-24 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

- Road from Entre Lagos to Puerto poncho does not have much traffic. Hitchike may take long.

- Because of that I started at lago Rupanco quite late (12.00). Waves were big but ok with decked packraft.

- Laguna's los quetros and the thermal baths are perfect camp spots. As for 22th of January there is no one , so it's free.

- Water is easily to find on the route every hour or so l. So no need to carry

- The trail goes trough beautiful forest. Can be very muddy if it recently rained alot.

- You can beautiful camp at the Northern shore of Laguna de los Santos. To cross the lake next day early morning.

- I started at 7 and at 8 there were already huge waves. In the afternoon it calmed down. Crossing took a whole day.

- The entry of Rio conchas is not at the first entry but more downstream.

- camping next to Rio Conchas has awesome fishing

- The haucho there said in the winter Rio conchas flows to Lago dos Santos and in the summer it flows to the Laguna.

- Just before the lake Rio Conchas turns into a small stream so you need to carry the packraft (100m).

==Season 2024/25==

*''' 2025-02-24 to 2025-03-03 / 9 days / Hiking+ferry / SOBO / var 21-01 + RR + ferry + 21-02 from Puerto Callao + 21-02 A (Refugio Otto Mailing) + 21-02 B (Refugio Viejo) + RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: I started at Puerto Las Gaviotas. I did not make it to 19 stages because I would like to cross the border as quickly as possible. I found Uber tel.+56 9 8716 2865 who took me for 50,000 clp to Las Gaviotas. I can recommend him. The road was not easy and the price is fair because from Entre Lagos it was 70 km. Then I took OH 1. Very nice path in the forest but a little moody after rain. Near Termas de Rudy trail passes for private terrain. Diana, who is the owner, invited me for tea. She also offers camp for 5,000 clp and has Termas. There also lives his son, Alejandro. There I have met two Chilean girls. They were frightened after passing bridges in variant RR. From the house of Diana, take variant AA, not RR. On RR at point .... there is a bridge. But I decided to go through the river. After the rain, the current was strong and the level of water was till my hips. I passed the night at Refugio Los Condores. Laura, mujer de Rudy, was very polite. She took me to his house, in the cabana there were some people. For hospedaje, cena, desayuno I paid 40,000 clp. The cena was very big and the desayuno also.
You can also buy eggs, bread, honey , beer. When I was in Entre Lagos I wrote Rudy to order a boat, refugio and food. Also he ordered for me a place at the ferry Elizabeth III for the next day. I paid for the boat to the ferry 15,000 clp.

Day 2: From Refugio Dos Condores to Puerto Callao, it took me 1.5 hours, but I recommend 2 hours. Two bridges were very solid. At Puerto Callo, I was waiting for Augustino, the son of Rudy. The ferry Elizabeth III arrived at 4:30 p.m. with a half-hour delay. During the journey, we took and left passengers at different ports. Finally, I reached Puerto Puella at 8 p.m. I slept at Hotel Puella for 40,000 clp with breakfast. But you can try Hotel Natura. The next day, one girl said to me that she had paid 30,000 clp. I was very lucky that transporting between ports had worked well for a normal price, together 20,000 clp.

Day 3: In the morning, I crossed the border of Chile without a problem. I still had three days for my stay. The road from Puella is a little boring but easy. I joined a group who went to "Riggy". From there, I had very spectacular views of Tronador. Afterward, I came back and spent the night near a refugio in a tent. The refugio is private. One person said to me that it belonged to carabineros, and another that it belonged to Hotel Natura.

Day 4: In the morning, I reached Aduana, Argentina. But the officials went at 12:30 on a boat from Bariloche. They did not like me to give a stamp of entrada to Argentina. But finally, the women gave me a paper to fill out and gave me a stamp. The men were impolite. Then I took a very nice trail "Paso por las Nubes". You had to pass some bridges. The trail went through the forest and is very easy. The night I spent in Refugio Alfonso Roca. A lot of people were there, but the views of the glacier were spectacular. The price for a night was 60,000 clp. You need a first reservation for WhatsApp. I had not, but it was a place for me. Payment only in cash.

Day 5: The trail went down through the forest. It was very easy. All fallen trees were cut down and easy to cross, and there were bridges saved. I decided to take variant 21-02A to refugio Otto Mailing, also paying 60,000 pesos argentinos for the night. They had also places for tents for 14,000 pesos argentinos. You can pay by card but with an additional 10%. The views of the glacier were incredible. The trail from Pampa Linda is very popular and very well signed.
Unfortunately, it was raining and there were a lot of clouds, but still I could see the glacier. This refugio has a very nice atmosphere. Because of bad weather, there were not a lot of people.

Day 6: It was a very rainy day. I started very early from Pampa Linda. At the border control, the man was very polite. He gave me two stamps: entrance and exit. And filled out a paper in three copies. I did not make any requests in Pampa. The Paso Viriloche trail was well signed, and the next day was the maratón to Ralun. I would like to take variant 21-B, but the carabinero stopped me because of bad weather. He was very polite. Because of bad weather, he invited me and two other people to something like a house and also took our clothes and shoes for drying. We slept on the floor and made a fire inside.

Day 7: The weather was excellent so I took 21B to refugio viejo. This place is amazing with views on Tronador. Finally I was walking together with three carabinieros, they had patrol. They took care of me. We went a little up after refugio to see glaciers. Tronador is amazing. After descending I took my things and went to refugio Huenchupen at km 86.9 of 21-02. I slept on the floor.

Day 8: Next day very rainy, so I was walking very fast through forest and mundo terrain. Night at puesto at km 26.4 of variant 21-04 close to RR. There were not poblador. We put tents together with two chilenos and two argentinos in house for animals. Water we find close from small stream.

Day 9: Crazy day. Next day in the predicción heavy rain, so I decided to reach Ralun, 37 km to go. All rivers all the way had increased water level because of rain. But only Rio Conchas was demanding: water above knee level and strong current. Finally I reached Ralun. I slept at hospedaje for 30 k clp, there is also cabana there for 40 k clp. The first house at the left. The owner is Margot, phone:+56 9 8716 2865. In shop el cruce very good asortiment. Next day I went to Puerto Montt to take my deposit with food. Bus at 6.50 and last at 8.00. Last from Puerto Montt at 4 p.m, at terminal you can buy ticket at shop number 37.

*'''2025-01-03 to 2025-03-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy

After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.

The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.

At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
So if you want to do this new option (OH03D) it is better to start directly in Villa las Coihues.

I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!

Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.

The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.

Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!

There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.

At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.

From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.

Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.

On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.

Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏

The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!

*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''

There is a detailed report of Natalie and Tomáš from January 2024 so I'll just add the differences/changed things.

I took the formal OH3 so I began in Colonia Suiza.

To get there from Bariloche by bus, need to bye a SUBE card (or ask someone to pay for you with it in the bus and give cash directly). These cards can only be found at the Centro Civico Bariloche in the center. Then you have to go in one of the many kiosko with SUBE in the city to pay and charge it. It was 1.5k for the card and needed to charge 4k to go untill Colonia Suiza. The bus 10 goes there directly from the city center but not much per day. Other solution is to take bus 20 and then an other one. Easy to find out in ggmaps or app moovit.

Untill laguna negra, it's an easy trail, overrun at this season.
Camp at 16.1, close to nice river.

Pass at 20.1 is easy and the view is awesome.

Going up to laguna CAB : there are some falen trees, trail a bit harder to follow. At this point -41,14666, -71,61216 intersection with an other more evident trail but it's not the good one, which is hide behind a log.

First beach of laguna CAB is very nice, stopped there to eat and swim, water at perfect temperature in the afternoon and no annoying insects.

Then steep ascent to the pass at 28.0. Up there, I found navigation a bit confusing. Sometimes lots of cairns in several direction. No trail as it's only big scrambling rocks. Begining of the descent is hard and take time.

Camp at the 2nd camp spot close to Mallin Mate Dulce. This one was nicer than the first. Good river flowing close and sort of a waterfall with a bassin. But so much mosquitoes that I ate and mostly stayed in my tent.
This day was only 15km but feels way more. Lots of elevation gain and loss, slow evolution (and also I had a very heavy backpack).

Next pass at 33.5, navigation easier with some red/blue marks, steep ascent and descent that often demand using of hands (especially begining of the descent !!). I saw my first condor up there, incredible moment.

After laguna Creton, everything gets easier (and faster) : navigation, terrain and steepness !

Note : camp spot just under laguna Creton (with waterfall and bassin) and the one close to Laguna Jujuy (probably a bit exposed if big wind but there are little stonewalls to pitch the tent) seems really nice to spent the night !

The view is awesome all along the ridge till pass 38.4.

Easy descent to laguna Ilon. Lots of people camp here coming from pampa linda (12k/pp for camping). Still nice spot to rest a bit, perfect to swim, shade, dry toilets and drinking water.

Easy descent to pampa linda with really nice views on the tronador !

Pampa linda : restaurants (expensive!), campings (saw one at 8k without shower). Free wifi that worked really well in all town (at least in the morning when not much people there), I could even had a WhatsApp videocall with perfect quality.

Gendarmería : easy and fast. No date in the paper so I guess it's not compulsory to get to the carabineros the exact same day.

Carabineros : very chill, they don't check my bag at all, no form to fill, so I didn't finished all my prohibited food as previoused and I passed the border with cheese, nuts, dry fruits,... Possible to let them things to go up to refugio viejo.

Refugio viejo tronador : long but mostly easy going up to the refugio, awesome landscapes. I splept there in a high windy night, the refuge is very basic but a good schelter.

Puesto at 86.9 is not a puesto but a refuge. There is a table outside with an awesome view on the tronador. No bed inside but could probably be a good shelter to pitch the tent in bad weather. Water in the river flowing just few meters down (not in OSM).

Camp at 88.9 : the spot with the river is really nice to have a swim with large bassins. Only fits 1 tent I think.

In Gaia there are 2 others refugio on the map. Refugio Seba --> nothing. Refugio Vuriloche --> seems more like the house of a settler. The termas are at wrong place on Gaia map.

I did a short day to enjoy the termas and shelter from rain, multiple nice and clean bassins.
-41,24628, -72,04855 : flat spot to camp, tables, fire.
-41,24701, -72,04806 : first trail go down here to the river. 1 bassin just down and one closer to the river.
-41,24813, -72,04712 : 2nd trail go to the bridge (the one in OSM). Just before there are 2 other nice bassins, hoter !!
I was there with a group of 16 argentinians who make the traverse every year, they know the settler, told me the use of hot springs is free !
I saw him the next morning. He sells bread and killed a lamb for the group (but maybe need to be asked in advance for that?).

Then trail sometimes muddy/sleepery but mostly in good conditions even after a rainy night !
Fords of Rio Conchas up to knee.

Camp just after ford 28.6.

In total, it was a very nice section with awesome landscapes, especially OH3 and the refugio viejo!! Took me about 7 days with some short days.

*'''2025-JAN-17 to 2025-JAN- / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We combined stages 20 and 21, starting with food supplies for both stages (4 days). This stage with enough water, mostly leads through dense Valdivian forest. The highlight for us was the view of the Puntiagudo and Osorno volcanoes from Lago Todos los Santos, where you need to arrange transportation to the opposite shore.

Following variant 01, the trail ascends to Laguna Los Quetros through dense forest along a cow path carved into the terrain. At Laguna Los Quetros, there are many beautiful camping spots, benches, fire pits, and a dry toilet. We met the owners of this campsite at the beginning of the stage, and they told us that the campsite usually has a fee, but they didn’t feel like going up that day, so we could stay for free.
The ford [19.1/650] was crossed dry-footed. The bridges along the trail were quite fragile or improvised, for example, the bridge [20.3/419] is suitable only for the brave due to its condition. At the point Food, Lodging, Ferry [21.1+0.2/415], no one was there, so we continued to Settler, Lodging, Ferry [23.2/432], where you can buy breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as bread, eggs, honey, soda, and beer. We also learned that the boat to the other side of Lake Todos los Santos was expected to depart the following day (Sunday) around noon. Therefore, we reached the lake and decided to wait until the next day. However, the owner of one of the boats appeared and offered to take us to the Cayutue port for 120,000 CLP. We eventually negotiated the price down to 100,000 CLP. He dropped us off outside the track files at coordinates (-41.22695, -72.26297), where there is a sheltered terrace where you can stay overnight. In addition to tables, benches, and a grill, there is also a water tap. From there, we set out on a new route, mostly across pastures, visible on navigation tools. The settler at coordinates (-41.25020, -72.25722) allowed us to pass through his property, though he didn’t seem too pleased about it. We rejoined the RR trail at the transition from MR to TL approximately at km [57.2]. From Lago Cayutue, we encountered many people who were out on a weekend walk. The rest of the way to Cochamó was peaceful.

* ''' 2025-JAN-17 > 18 / 1 jours (30km) / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 21-A > RR > END km 30 / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : nuageux
| Eau : rare
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Si la neige ne fond pas, il n'y a pas d'eau entre le km 4,5 et le km 19,0. Je n'ai pas pu faire ma lessive. Le RR va dans la riviere au km 20,3 alors j'ai pris le 21-A qui est le chemin officiel. Le (vendredi) soir au refuge Dos Condores, on me dit que le ferry ne passe que certains jours. Je dois donc attendre le dimanche 12h00... Je n'ai pas compris où allait le ferry car le monsieur parlait très mal et je comprend mal l'espagnol. Bref je pense que c'est très difficile de trouver un bateau El Callao > Cayutué. Le lendemain je suis descendu au port par la derniere section plutôt boueuse, espérant un miracle. Et le miracle était là... un groupe de 15 jeune randonneur (14-18ans) de Puerto Varas avec un guide qui attendent leur bateau... Je suis rentré avec eux à Petrohue gratuitement. J'avoue qu'après la section 18 et 20, et ce plan foireux de ferry, ma motivation avait totalement disparu. Mais je repars de plus belle vers le GPT22. Bus de 12h00 entre Petrohue et la route 225, tentative infructueuse d'auto-stop vers Cochamo mais bus à 12h45. Je n'ai pas pu faire la seconde partie du GPT21 malheureusement. Mais je suis content d'être sorti de ce cul de sac.

* '''2025-01-14 / 6 hours / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 8 / Tomáš'''
While Natalie was resting in Puerto Varras, I took the same bus like last year at 8:38 from next to our hostel (-41.32710, -72.96598) and got dropped at the bridge where Option 8 starts an hour later (2500 CLP). Unlike last year, the bus was half-empty. The approach is MR, no CC. Rio Huenuhuenu does not have that much water - it is navigable, but you will hit the ground from time to time probably. Also, there are some sticks, that are due to narrowness of the river not so always to avoid (just walk your biat here and there). It took me 40 minutes to get to Rio Petrahue, which is deep and wide and while it has momentum, so you go fast, is not technical at all. There are logs and sticks but they are extremely easy to avoid. It was raining and I stopped for about two hours at Hot Spring {21-08} [24.2/29] (Termas de Ralun). They are free and popular (with both Chilians and foreigners) - there have always been other people. So probably not good for camping or washing, but great warm up. They can fit 10+ people. Tide reaches there and it somewhat elevated my boat even though I put it on the beach previously. Luckily it did not flow away. Due to high tide, Rapid {21-08} [25.1/30] was nonexistent. Camp {21} [79.3/7] is paid, I think, this is private land. Without stopping at the hot spring, Rio Petrohue would have taken me 3 hours to go down. I managed to lose my inReach in my transparent dry bag there, but recovered it later (see next entry). Hitched first car to Puerto Varras. All in all maybe due to rain and clouds, I did not find it very scenic, but listening to a podcast and eating strawberries while just floating down the river was a treat.

* '''2025-01-6/ 1 / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&OP 8/ Davide'''

Together with Volker I took Elisabeth III for Petrahue at Lagos todos Los Santos. While he proceeded for the climb of Vulcan Osorno I continued my packrafting trips starting a bit after Petrohue (Los Pollos). The official track of the GPT (21) start back at the intersection between Rio Hueñu Hueñu and Rio Petrohue, and for good reasons. The rapids starting at Los Pollos are locally famous for guided trips and rated at III+, so I don't suggest them for unaware packrafter. DO NOT try if inexperienced.

On the other hand the rest of the river is a glorious enjoyment up to its end at estero Reloncavi.

Be mindfull at the delta of Rio Hueñu Hueñu to Rio Petrohue, there are many trees in the river, and the left-most branch of the delta is completely blocked by a fallen tree transversal to the flow. Care must be given also for the remaining trait of the river.

This route overall represents a possible variation to existing tracks to not have to go to Puerto Varas if passing to Petrohue. While it is a bit more dangerous, it can substitute the hike of the RR to a day on paddling in the river downstream.

* '''2025-01-10 to 2025-01-12/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&RP (ridge) / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Note: I wrote this when out of service without reading the last three new entries, so many things could be repeated, apologies.

Day 01: El Poncho to Cenizo basin; ~14km
After a short paddle from our, "alternative hot spring camp" (see gpt20), we arrived at El Poncho port. Unfortunately like others have said, there is no infrastructure there, the GPT has it misplaced. There is just one vacation home and SWARMS of tabaños. This was disappointing because I (Natalie) wasn't careful during the last resupply stop and did not buy enough food. Tomáš set up the tent to organize our things and I wasted an hour swinging a paddle into thin air trying to kill as many tabaños as I could. I will be having a good laugh for a while when I think back to what the Chileans must have thought when they saw me walking along the road, wearing a neon colored drysuit, and swinging a paddle up a down like a lunatic. I was very close to the skipping point as my body was exhausted from stomach issues that started at the beginning of gpt19, but eventually I came to terms. Plus, Tomáš had plenty of extra food as a back up so we set off around 12:30.
The trail is an old CONAF trail and there is an covered seating area/shelter near the start (no water). The trail was in surprisingly good shape and well traveled until the turn off for the gpt trail around -40.89986, -72.27375. We recommend taking the left fork (on OSM), it looked more traveled than the right and it went well (Tomáš of course cleared some bamboo to make it more obvious, hope it helps). There is also a stick blocking the GPT route at the top when they connect again. The OSM route first takes you to two settler houses, except if you hit the second s
house, you have gone too far, the trail veers upwards in the grass just before the second. After that it is pretty easy to stay on route, there are just a couple of alternative paths that intersect at times. The last one km of the OSM route is a bit overgrown, but it is just annoying, not slowing you down. There is no water until past the "Camping Alerces". If you plan to camp there, you can walk westward ~300m to a good flowing creek that should hopefully provide water year round..
After the camping, it's a walk up a semi dry creek bed until a waterfall blocks further advancement. The trail leaves the creek bed on your left about 100 m before this waterfall, Tomáš magnified the cairns there so hopefully you can see it. Then it's a simple but steep at times walk to the ridge, absolutely amazing views of Puntiagudo (Osorno's evil stepsister) and the the surrounding area. I give the ridge walk a 10/10 for views. We slept (the night was thankfully windless) in the basin underneath Volcan Cenizo. If there is snow and sun you may find water in the afternoon/evening, but no water in the morning/early afternoon so the last water would have been the waterfall.

Day 02: Volcan basin to Lago Todos Los Santos; 20 km
The next day was very straightforward. We hiked up Cenizo , aiming more to towards the north ridge for easier climbing. The peak to it's east looks like a possible fun scramble (from the west!) if you find a good way (without bag of course). There was no snow melt on the way down and like Roman has mentioned the turn off into the forest can be easily missed; -40.95687, -72.18367. The path down was in surprisingly good shape, lots of orange cut marks as well. The tabaños were in FULL force in the valley. They were the worst around the hotspring 19.2. The hotsprings are in a locked shed and nobody is living in that spot, they live a little further down valley on the trail (Sergio?). The worst of the tabaños were there but they continued to be terrible anytime we were not in the shade of the forest. We had lunch at the main hub of the valley; Refugio Dos Condors (aka Laura and her son Augustin, Rudy being the head of the family?). They are formally set up to take guests, so it is unlikely they will ever "not" be there. They have a couple menu's and prices for alternative requests. We had lunch for 16mil each. It was well worth it for my sake because I had been under fueled for a while. I also bought eggs (300pp), bread (400pp) and half a kilo of honey (3mil). Tomáš was overjoyed to be able to eat as mucj cherries from their trees as he could and also some raspberries. They are notnripe yet, should stay available maybe till end of month? We then made good time and got to the beach "ferry" early enough to rest before an early morning paddle the next day. P.s. we almost accidentally went to the beach of the settler to the east of the ferry, seemed like a prettier spot. Also, if you camp at the ferry, there is a large light near the boats/trail entrance, so I suggest camping on the far right (loling onto the beach from the lake). There was a trickle of water that seemed questionable, so our last source of water was the bridge 27.1.

Day three: Lago Todos Los Santos (TLS) to Petrohue - 22 km
We chose to go to Petrohue as we have walked to Ralun last year via Argentina. Tomáš had the idea of crossing the lake and then following the south shore of TLS as it was less distance. I hesitated as I didn't trust the lake, so the safest option sounded like the north shore, but we had a good weather window so we went with Tomáš's suggestion, making one quick stop on the island (a nice stop if it wasn't for the tabaños. Sadly we had almost no tabanos before the stop but after that they followed us to the end - must have killed over a hundred). In the morning we set off at ~6:15am and glad we didn't set of any later. One reason being the attack of the horseflies while paddling but mainly because when we got 1km close to the end we got hit by some strong headwind and waves. Advancement was slow but we made it (altogether the section took us 48 hours). A tourist boat came to us looking panicked but we assured them we would make it. Goes to show that it is true, conditions can change VERY fast and I am personally glad we were not any further from shore. Petrohue is an awful touristy place. Bus to Puerto Varras leaves every half an hour and there were swarms of cars with tourists. There are several telecommunications towers, but no working Entel internet (Edge!).

* '''25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker'''

Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.

Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).

Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.

*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''

Very scenic but quite demanding

Day 0: We hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to Puerto Rico. We were lucky, it took us just three cars and a we waited in total less than 15 minutes. We got out of the 3rd car 1 km after the start of the RR at a small beach of Lago Rupanco, but the Tabano situation forced us to leave the beach at once. Haunted by dozens of horse-flies we went up to the MR road at this point -40,89289, -72,27335. At the last house (big wooden house after last gate on the MR), we found Robin that was really nice and help full, speaks english. She offers very nice rooms in a calm and beautiful house away of the tabaños, has a big kitchen were you can cook. Paradise to rest a night.

In the evening we wrote a message to Rudy, made a reservation for the refugio Los Condores and the hotsprings on the way for the day after.
The number to make reservation : +56950180447.
Camping + hot tubes 12k
Refuge : camping 6k, hospedaje 12k. Desayuno 10k, almuerzo o cena 16k. Everything is homemaid by his wife. She also cell bread, eggs, bebidas.

Day 1: We started at 8.30 on the RR, first hours in the forest (no water! You hear a small river, but the access seemed very difficult), then CC on the volcanic plateau.

On the trail up, we pass throught settlers land, they were nice but told us that they charge people of 5k each when they go by this trail that is on their land.

Ascent to the pass on very steep volcanic gravel. 1300 m of altitude only to this point. Great view on the very close Volcan Puntiagudo. From now on much snow, but no running water. The ascent on Cerro Cenizo is very, very steep, we went partly on snow, partly on volcanic gravel. When you arrive at the summit (1640m) you have climbed all in all around 2000m of altitude. We arrived at 3 p.m. and had still a descent of 1200 m of altitude before us. Very steep down, when the CC ends less steep on the trail. First running water only close to the junction with OH1.

Rudy had opened the hut with 2 wooden bassins at 19.2 (one too hot to enter, the other one perfect, but it‘s not the same as a natural bassin with a hot spring). We arrived at the refugio los condores 23.2 at 7 p.m. and got a great dinner (and two rooms in the lovely hut). This was a really long and very physical day.

Day 2: Clara went back to Lago Rupanco, Volker continued to Lago Todos Santos.

Clara :
took OH 1 to get to Las Gaviotas. Very easy trail compared to RR. Should be muddy in rain weather. There are more parallel trails, some are in OSM, frequently used.
Laguna Los quetros was full of tabaños so I went directly down.

No boat at Las gaviotas to go to puerto buey.
Easy to hitchhike if you walk a bit the beginning of the road.

Volker: Rudy‘s price for the boat transfer over the Lago Todos Santos is now at 150k, which is a no-go. But the Elizabeth III boat from Peulla to Petrohue passes by on the lake on mo/wed/friday at around 9 a.m. It does not stop at the beach! Rudy called his cousin down at the lake and arranged an apppintment at 8.30 on the beach. So I started at 6 a.m. at Rudy’s, arrived after two hours of easy walking (mud at the beginning; can be done in 1,5hrs) at the beach and 30 minutes later Esteban arrived with his small boat. Once he saw the ferry approaching, we got to the middle of the lake, where I changed the boat. Rudy told me, Esteban would charge 5k, it was 10, but I was happy with that, too. On the ferry they took 5k (less than 1k for locals, but again….). It took 2,5hrs to Petrohue. Probably it would have been even possible to continue to Cochamo on the RR. Before going to Perrohue, the ferry went to the Rio Conchas bay, again one person was brought to the ferry on a small boat. It would probably have been possible to get on this small boat and to start the RR at the beach.
But my plan was to climb the V. Osorno.

The very nice guy at the Conaf in Petrohue told me, that shops to rent the gear are in Ensenada (Terra SUR, at the junction of the road coming from Peteohue). From Ensenada I hitchhiked to Refugio teskiclub (close to the Ski station, single room: 23k the night, food). The much less friendly Conaf guy at the station there (150m behind the refuge) told me in the evening, that I have to come in the morning and he will not allow me as a solo hiker to go to the summit, if there is no other registrated group. What a stupid rule! Luckily when I started at 5.a.m. in the morning he was obviously sleeping. Just don’t go to the station and you will have no problems! There were groups - and they didn’t registrer. It took me 3 hours first on volcanic gravel, later on steep and harsh snow to get to the summit. Breathtaking view all the time, highly recommended to all gpt-hikers , which are experienced in walking with crampons.

* '''From 2024-12-25 to 2024-12-28 // packrafting // NOBO // rp opt 2 // Nic, Lukas, Basil, Max'''

Starting out from cochamo on Christmas Day we were able to hitch a ride to Ralún after 8km. Went another 25 or so until we camped in an open pasture.

Overall Route is a bit muddy even though it was dry but very passable in these conditions. Tabanos were mental. Sometimes 50 or so swarm you making stopping for more than a few seconds very annoying. They don’t like smoke or night time.

In day two Ford (22.0/226, La Flecha) was difficult to pass and the continuation of the trail is a bit hidden. After the main crossing go all the way down on the right side of the islet and there is a small crossing to the other side where the trail continues.

After the settler at 15.6/232 (Aroldo) we couldn’t find a way to the port farther down (very muddy and no clear path from his house). So we camped a bit farther down from the pack raft route that starts at the last fork. We camped on a sandy bank and were easily able to pack raft out of the shallow waters the next morning.

Starting a 6:30 am in the morning we packrafted approx. 16km to el Callao in about 4-4.5 hours with no wind. Walked and camped at the “hot springs” afterwards. They were basically nonexistent (would have to pay to unlock a weird house with maybe some warm water). We unfortunately talked to the settlers on the way there because there was a cow dying. They were uninterested in the cow and just wanted money for the hot springs. After setting up camp, the settler showed up and awkwardly asked us for 6000 clp each to which we happily paid because we realized we were on their land.

We then took the route over Cerro cenizo. Absolutely worth it but quite technical with the volcanic rocks and snow. Instead of taking the packs up the mountain we went up without and then went back down and around to join up with the route again. The route down is also easy to find. Be aware that el poncho is a bit of a long stretch of houses and the resupply is not where it’s marked currently. There are a few houses on the way that sell stuff but a real Mercado is further down the road in Rupanco.

* '''From 2024-12-20 to 2024-12-23 // packrafting // 3 days // NOBO RR // Mara, Tobias'''

No difficulties and just a few tabanos on this beautiful section. Crossed Lago Todos Los Santos from Rio Petrohue with little wind in 1.5 days. Camped day 2 beside refuge -41.00172, -72.16788 for 6000CPS per person. Laura and Augustin were happy to sell us fresh bread, lettuce and eggs. Trail is in a good condition (compared to other sections). Met no other hikers but friendly settlers.

* '''17th to 20th dec 2024 / / Hiking / sobo var 1 + RR + boat + bus / Allie'''

I attempted the RR over cerro cenizo in bad weather early december and then i had tendinite at my achilles so took a three week break at lago rupanco.
On this trip i hitchhiked to las gaviotas. From there the hike to refugio el callao is easy. The sign says it takes 9 hours to get to the refugio, but it can be done in 6 hours easlily in my opinion. I took a nice break at the termas, which were open by chance. Its two carved out tree trunks. I walked another 3 km to the refugio. +56 9 5018 0447 this is the number of rudi yefi that keeps it. Any boat information can be asked to him.
The 18th i went halfway up the cerro cenizo on a day hike. The trail is easy to follow.
The 19th of december i didnt do anything because of bad weather.
The 20th i went down from the refugio to todos los Santos. Rudis son drives a lancha that brings you to the boat to petrohue. The boat over todos los santos to petrohue costs 5000clp for foreigners. From there i took a bus to puerto varas and then a bus to cochamo.

* '''From 2024-12-8 to 2024-12-11 // 3 day // Hiking // SOBO // Las Gaviotas - RR // Mo'''
Found s.o. who dropped me at Las Gaviotas, then walked to the Termas which were open (luckily), slept there, went down to the beach Puerto El Callao/ El Rincon and waited for my boat I organised beforehand (80000 pesos) that took me to Petrohue.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.

Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.

She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.

80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.

Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).

Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.

The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.

Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).

Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.

* '''2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian'''

From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.

I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.

Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.

From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.

Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!

The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.

Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.

Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.

{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!

Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.

Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.

Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!

Km28.6 : go through the gate.

Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.

Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.

From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.

From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)

Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.

I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.

Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.

For bus schedule:

10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min

* '''2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: Beginning of this is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is the end of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is an extension of GPT21, option 2.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1740951703077375/.]

Overview (sorry for the length):

Since the mountains of Bariloche are a bit of a playground of trails, we did a variation of mainly high trails starting from Laguna Guiterezz and onward to Pampa Linda (joining Option 3 midway) and then followed the "Jesuitos/Vuriloche" route to Ralún (Option 2). We had a few short and a few long days to make a total of 6,5 days.

For the Bariloche part we wanted to go Lago Guiterezz – Lago Frey (via optional valley) – Refugio Jacob – Refugio Italiana (behind which you join Option 3) and out via Lago Ilón to Pampa Linda. However since I banged up my knee I separated from Tomáš. He went on to do the high route as planned from Jacob and I went down the Huella Andina and then back up via the Laguna Azul trail to meet near Laguna Creton.

Re-supply is possible but expensive and with limited variety at Pampa Linda, so bringing most of your food is advised. I restocked on bread (5mil for 1kg or 2.5mil for half) some sweets (2-2.5mil) and had a meal (9mil). There is weak wifi at the tourist info stand (sometimes not working at all, sometimes passing through messages, e-mails and even non-interactive websites, the speed was not a function of the number of people trying to connect) and two campsites (1@4mil, no services apart from toilets and water and 1@8mil with shared electricity and showers).

Highlights of the Bariloche part were indeed mountain vistas, Torre principal of Cerro Catedral lurking everywhere the first two days, rock scrambling and lagoons. The disadvantages were the slow terrain, (a lot of edging on rock/kitty litter dirt/dust on slab/steep tree belaying dirt) and park rules. You have to register online (easy and free, there is a Google form on park's website) and register in person at every Refugio (it is free and if they do not see you, you can get away with not registering, we only actually did it once). Camping is free but it can be annoying because of the amount of people concentrating around refugios. Officially you are only allowed to camp near refugios and at certain designated places, but given the number of tent places along the route, this rule is often breached. We never bought food from the refugios, but that option is out there.

As for the Jesuitos route (Vuriloche) we were lucky because things were dry and therefore the trek was a lot better than expected. The forest walking/mud tunnels felt like Indiana Jones. The biodiversity of mosses and ferns felt like home (West coast of British Columbia) and the valley settler homesteads were picture perfect at times (and smelled like summer houses in central Europe). The trek to Tronador's "Refugio Viejo" was not to be missed and neither were the hot springs near Ford at [101,3/351], if you can get there around nightime. The passing through the border with the Carabineros was alarmingly easy. They did not check our food (we smuggled a tomato!) and they barely asked any questions, they just took our passports and came back with a stamp (no PDI paper). Don't forget to check in with the Argentinian border patrol before leaving, if it wasn't for Tomáš, I would have had to walk back from the carabinieros because I did not think it was necessary since I never got an entry stamp from Argentina in the first place – I was wrong. The Argentinians made us fill out a piece of paper to show to the Chilians and perhaps communicated with them that we were coming.

Things to note:
-The Terrain around Bariloche is very much alpine-like terrain. It is slow and can be dangerous so if you are not comfortable with steep terrain, rock, edging, gullies and possible snow then I suggest choosing the Huella Andina or the regular GPT21 Option 03 (it is comparable to GPT11-GPT12 around Cerro Dedos or the ridge at the end of GPT08) - all of these trails are regularly walked though.
-The mud: it is said that in the wet season or after a recent rain, the trail on the Jesuitos route gets so muddy that it may be impassable. From what we saw, most of the mud tunnels were very dry so I think it would take a hard rain to make it impassable.
-The mosquitos were a thing but we were only "swarmed " in our camp spot on the other side of Cayute (and we built our tent once for lunch against them). Horse flies seem to be dying off but they were crazy around the Carabinieros.
- Option 2C on the North side of Rio Blanco is not meant for pedestrians, there is a sign saying for pedestrians to stay on the Right (South). Maybe it is because of the ford over Rio Blanco (one out of the two bridges still exist, the first one on the west side) or maybe the settlers are not interested in hikers. There is a skinny suspension bridge over the river at the hotsprings (300 m SE from the ford waypoint) but you can easily ford as well. Some of the bridges on OSM are broken and nonexistent [was corrected in summer 2024].
- we got a hitch for only the last 4km of the Laguna Cayute road, then hitched slowly to Puerto Varas for food and a rest.

The details:

We started by getting out of Bariloche by a city bus number 41 (0.2 USD per person, goes every 30 minutes, Google maps or Moovit [more precise] have the schedules, you need to have a SUBE card [available at bus terminals] valid in all of Argentina, topping it online is seemingly impossible, in theory there are many small shops that can top it up [they are marked SUBE, the SUBE app has their locations] but we got lucky only at the third such shop) to Villa Lago Guiterezz and then hitchhiking to the southern end of Lago Guiterezz, where we started walking along a very crowded beach and then in-the-evening-decidedly-not-crowded lakeshore to a beach at the mouth of Arroy van Titter. We then walked towards Lago Frey by taking a partialy (it is probably cleared from time to time) overgrown but beautiful valley just south of the main route. It was slow and swampy (cca for 2 km/1 hour but had little people and offered impressive views of Cerro Catedral south and it's towers. Through this we bypassed the Refugio Frey and made our way to the first of many passes near Laguna Schmoll. The way up is simple scrambling anyone can do, but the way down was a mix of slow edging and sand sliding (it is probably a lot less travelled). We waited until the heat of the day ended to make our way up the second pass above Refugio Jacob. For this second pass it was easy walking on the way up, but the way down was once again slow edging on relatively steep terrain. We registered and camped at Refugio Jacob to have an early start on the next day. The Refugio and campsites were packed and felt cramped.

I had a bad encounter with a log that morning and my knee was banged up so the next day Tomáš and I split. He went on to the high route and I went down the Huella Andina and up again to a meeting spot near Lago Laguna Creton via Laguna Azul.

As for getting down the Huella Andina it was slower than expected but fine, and getting up to Azul was fast but more involved than expected. The last 200 vertical meters was low angle slab beside a waterfall, which was fun for going up but maybe not so fun for the way down. The rest of the way to Creton and camping was easy with fun slabby terrain.

Tomáš's report:

I went from Refugio Jacob to Refugio Italiano through Pico Refugio and then to Pampa Linda through laguna Illón. It took me two full days. The warden at Jacob told us that the route to Refugio Italiano was closed due to snow (a lot fell late in spring), so I met no one on the route, though I saw a set of footprints that were at most from the previous day. The route is mostly marked by cairns, sometimes it is invisible and sometimes you can see a painted sign (there is little consistency in terms of shape or colour of the marking) but is easy to follow with a map. The climb to Pico Refugio was easy scrambling. There were bolted rings that you can use to secure a rope but I did not think it was dangerous to climb unsecured. It was never vertical, the holds were good. It took me 10-15 minutes to get through this section of maybe 50 vertical meters. SAC 5 or slightly under. A much less vertical zigzagging route appeared then on that went to a pass still before Pico Refugio. From then on I sometimes did walk on snow but it was soft without any creeks eating it from underneath so I felt safe. It took me four hours to get to Cerro Navidad. The gully from there was mostly under snow for about 300 vertical meters. I went down on the snow until a creek started flowing under it from left. Then I stayed on the left side of the undersnow creek or on bare rocks. Lower in the valley the route was a bit eroded and there was even a short (20 metres - SAC 4 at most) fixed rope but it was not too difficult to get down. It was not easy walking though even in the valley, one crosses the stream several times and there are big stones even in the forrest (SAC 3). I took the first OSM route left to Refugio Italiano. It was quite (but not fully) vertical, but easy, I did use my hands and it was fun. It took me four hours from Cerro Navidad to Refugio Italiano, where there were lots (40?) of people at 4 PM.

I continued along the lake, where there was even a section with steps on the stone made out of metal rods (10 metres, SAC 3-4). This part is frequented and so was easy. It continued to be easy until Laguna CAB (though I lost the route several times going up in the forest). I reached the lake before dusk. I met two people on the near end of the lake. There were several people on the far end of the lake, where there are lots of mosquitoes, not recommended to camp. There is no trail around the lake - one fords the lake along its shore for about 1 km, it is not deep. I started going up to Cerro CAB. It is steep and was at first muddy but the route is clear enough in the bush and then marked by cairns on the rocky section (SAC 2-3). I reached the pass when it started to be fully dark. I continued the horizontal traverse (SAC 3-4) with a headlamp but 800 metres took me almost 40 minutes so I stopped before the route starts descending (thank God for the InRreach to InRreach messaging, I could let Natalie know I would not make it that night – the next day it took me four additional hours to get where she was camping). It was hard to follow the cairns as one just walks on bare rocks with no visible trail whatsoever, sometimes using hands to go up or down a a few metres. There is a nice horizontal miniplateau ideal for sleeping on a warm windless night (no mosquitoes!) with plentiful water from the melting snow.

In the morning, I woke up to a splendid view of Tronador. I went down, at first again using my hands here and there (SAC 4), but not much. Mosquitoes during daytime in the valley, which is actually a pass you reach from above. The climb to the pass at Cerro Cristal is clear trail at first but the last 150 vertical metres is a diagonal upward traverse walking on large slabs or wedges made out of pure granite. Their slope is good and I thought it was fun and it is quite scenic (SAC 3-4). Going down to Laguna Creton is steep and the route is sometimes a bit hard to find but it is not too hard (SAC 3). I saw one tent around Laguna Creton and met about six people going my direction to Laguna Illón, where there were dozens of people at 4 PM. Going down I met over a dozen prople either going my way or going up (and then I met Natalie of course).

Altogether, this traverse took me to routes that are not overun with people and are quite nice with lots of views (Cerro Cathedral is a scary darling that has that name for a reason), being mostly above the tree line. However, the route is demanding – you will be happy to cover 1,5 km per hour. It seems many people go up to a refugio, spend the night and go down again, so the aproach routes to refugios are more popular than the connecting traverses between them. These routes seemed to be in quite good shape thanks to that.

From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).

The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).

* '''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

TLDR: Very enjoyable section; No mentionable difficulties; Packraft Lago Todos Los Santos in the morning if you can, as wind will pick up in the afternoon; Great chats with the settlers along the way

From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).

We hiked the next day on RP to wp Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] and stayed the night. Rudi wasn’t there and the hot tubs were closed. It was an easy hike all the way. There we met Alejandro, Sergio’s son, who mentioned that Sergio doesn’t live in the valley anymore - it’s him and his mother now, so no more beers, but Alejandro speaks fluent English, which made it easier for us to connect :). If you want to get in touch with him, connect through his insta @valleelcallao.

The next day we continued on RR, took variant 21-A and camped at wp Port {21} [29.9/204] (El Callao) right by the beach. We met Rudi there and had a lovely chat with him.

* We started paddling early the next day, crossed Lago Todos los Santos in ard 4 hours and went to shore at wp Lake {21} [53.6/200]. We continued to wp River, Camp {21} [61.1/237] (Rio Conchas) where we went into the water again to paddle the short RP upstream river segment and across Lago Cayutue. It was not the best idea to paddle there in the afternoon, as headwinds on the lake were strong. However it’s a short stretch and going back would have cost more time, so we managed, and the landscape from the lake is really amazing. We stayed the night at wp Lake, Camp {21} [64.1/233]. Beautiful place!

We went to the parking lot at wp Settler {21} [63.4/448] the next morning and were offered a ride down the valley by some lovely people, so we hitchhiked to Cochamó.

* '''2023-12-12 to 2023-12-14 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR / Roman'''

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos all the way to the start of the RR. Beginning was a bit overgrown nothing bad but a bit annoying (7km) [in hindsight I wouldn't consider it BB but close before it, still doable and worth it]. Snow stating at 1350m good to hike as soon as you are out the forest. Down the other side: watch the GPS the entry in the forest can be easily missed and trust the GPS. There are some marks in the bark. The point is here: -40.956873, -72.183669. Trust the GPS and after ~100m you will find a "proper" trail (visible easy to follow). Stayed at the Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] [Rudi brought some people NoBo with the Boat). The trail from there to the lake is at the beginning for 5k a bit annoying due to a lot of vegitation (no BB). The frist bridge after Rudi is a bit sketchy, i crawled over it, because there is nothing to hold on, some planks ate missing and some are badly damaged [https://imgur.com/a/piW3AI3]. After that the bridges getting better. Pacrafted the next day to Camp ? {21} [52.2+1.0/196]. Startet Packrafting at 02:00 PM pitched tent at 08:00 PM. Conditions where good. Waited for a window of no wind to cross the lake to the other bank. A lot of exit possibilities there a lot more settlers than on the map. Overall it was a quite day; wind was mainly from west. Got on shore here: Lake {21} [53.6/200]. Trail after that easy and beautiful! Hitchhiked to Cochamó from here: -41.316407, -72.273071.

Overall: beginning a but annoying due to dense vegetation (no BB). After that the trail is ok and is good after the crossing. Would reccomend it even if the beginning is annoying and after Rudi also vegetation but the views are worth it!

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.

The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.

We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.

We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.

Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2022-NOV-25 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR and OR A / Yannic & Mirjam'''
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.
All the ways were in good condition, but sometimes a bit muddy. So maybe not that easy after heavy rainfalls

* '''2022-NOV-3 / 3 days / NOBO /hiking / RR / Frank'''
From Cochamo I walked 15KM on the road to Ralun crossroad (see transport section) Basic shop Minimercado El Cruce at Ralun Cross. Then 9KM on a good dirt road with a little traffic to 'Pass 510 metres'. You could probably hitch part of this if you want. After the pass the road deteriorates to a rough track. Cross a log bridge before Lago Cayutue. Beautiful campsite by the lake, one of the best on the GPT so far. On day 2 I walked to Lago todos los Santos & met Eduardo. He lives at the first house you come to NOBO just before the lake. He was busy & his boat was out of the water but agreed to take me for 80,000 CLP. Other houses & boats there are owned by weekenders who are rarely present. I believe Eduardo is your only option NOBO. However he said he is usually there & only goes to town occasionally. The crossing is spectacular with views of Osorno, Tronador & Puntiagudo.

I continued to the camp at the hot spring. The spring is in a locked shed & there is a basic refuge there, also locked. Rudy came by on his horse in the evening to open the shed. 10,000 CLP to camp & use the spring. If you want to be sure the spring or refuge are open then call in at Refugio dos Condores NOBO. Note the location marked for Refugio dos Condores on Openstreetmap which is used by Gaia & other apps is not correct. The location marked on the track files is the correct one. After Refugio dos Condores you cross a small bridge & on a ridge there are two signs saying Aguas Calientes 2KM. Don't follow the track file here but go down left at the signs on a trail, cross a small stream & go up to a meadow with some farm houses. Go out flat across the meadow with the houses on your right, continuing on a trail in the forest. After 1.5KM you rejoin the track file. This is much easier than the track file route (I used the 2019 track file)

Day 3: Pay attention after Pass 830M, there are a lot of switchbacks in the forest & the route is not obvious. Laguna los Quetros is also a very nice camp but I continued to Las Gaviotas. Got the ferry out at 8PM. This unscheduled ferry does not connect to a bus. I walked out 3KM to Entre Rios, cheap camping, cabanas & basic shop. The campsite has tap water & rabbits but no toilet or shower. The entire route has now been cut back, hardly any bush bashing. There are quite a few mud wallows on the track but you can go around them. Part of the route is on sunken trails & it's likely to flood out & be a mudbath after rain.

* '''2022-Oct-17 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Alice & Florian'''

We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day) and spent the day in the park around Petrohue. They are nice few hours walk on the volcano Osorno, near the the lake and in the forest, and the CONAF team is really nice there (kept our backpacks).
Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

After reaching Cayutue, the trail is easy to find, a little bit muddy but okay for us after a few days of sun.
We slept at the camp # indicated on the tracks.
We arrived the next day around 4PM on the intersection between the trail and the road to Cochamo. There was no bus, but hitchhiking was easy.
We slept at the hostel Arcoiris. It is quite cheap as we paid 15000 pesos per person for a double private room, the kitchen is available and well equipped. You can camp as well if you are not tired of it :)

One another piece of information. The CONAF guys in Petrohue told us that they are planning to maintain and put more signalization on La ruta de los jesuitas. This trail comes from Argentina and crosses the Lago de todos los santos until the Rio Blanco. There you can join the main route of the GPT with an optional route.
Considering this information, it will be an additional argument for Jan to change this optional route to the main one.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Dec-13 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We took the bus from Puerto Varas towards Cochamó, but got dropped at the road about 15 km before and started directly on the gravel road. The bus leaves quite a few times, but you have to ask around for the specific times. We took it at 13, and I think it left at least once more that day. The employees at the different outdoor stores know pretty well where the bus leaves from and who to ask. We camped at the spot marked "camping" near a small lake, it was quite nice, near a river as well. We got to Lago Todos Los Santos around 13 and asked at the first house marked on the GPS. It's situated on a hill behind three newly built vacation houses. Eduardo who lives there came out as soon as the dogs started barking, and was immediately ready to take us across the lake. The place where you want to get dropped of is called El Rincón. We were charged 70.000 pesos like other people have said as well.
On the second day we camped right after the first "bridge" waypoint.
Termas:
The third day we went to the termas. On the way there, you pass Rudy's house - it's about two hours before the termas. They have a cabin which is about 8000 CLP and sell breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as bread, honey, eggs and so on. They also have the option to camp at the termas which is 7000 CLP for camping and access. They have a wooden tub in a small shed, so you need to get the key from them - easiest going nobo as you pass their house. We later found out that there is a second option. A guy who lives in the house right next to the termas has made his own, it's more natural looking with rocks, and it's outside and more private. You have to knock on his house for him to show you. We actually thought it was nicer, but didn't hear the price. He is also a really nice guy who offers trips to Cerro cenizas with great views of Volcán Puntiagudo if he has time. It's a one day trip according to him. The last part of the trail to Las Gaviotas was fairly easy, although with a lot of confusing trails that ultimately seem to go the same way.
Las Gaviotas:
In Las Gaviotas there are a few different options for sleeping. There seem to be two or three different people with cabañas, there's a nice camping ground right on the beach with toilets, and we saw a tent further down on the beach which didn't seem to bother anyone. There is a very small shop in a shed on the beach with a few snacks and sodas, and it's possible to buy some bread, eggs and honey but definitely no resupply options. The beach was beautiful and good for swimming!
Access/exit:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. Puerto Buey is even smaller than Las Gaviotas. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but maybe there are more buses from there. As has been written before, it's possible to walk to Puerto Buey along a gravel road by the lake.

* '''2021-Nov-29 to 2021-Nov-30/ 1,5 days / hiking / NOBO / OR: Lago Todos Los Santos - Cerro Cenizo - Volcan Puntiagudo ridge - Lago Rupanco / Alex Abramov'''

This new variant is not the same as GPT21 option 4: it is easier and more logical. Easy/Moderate difficulty.
Rudy Jefi and his refugio are still in business (the price for boat from Petrohue 70.000), but Camping Las Nalcas and Mini Mercado Rupanco were closed.

* '''2021-Nov-17 to 2021-Nov-21 / 5 days / Packrafting and Hiking / Traverse of Lago Todos Los Santos, Option 2 Rio Blanco and Ruta de los Jesuitas (Vuriloche) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

We started this season at Petrohue on the western end of Lago Todos los Santos. Access by bus to Petrohue is easy (Bus from Puerto Varas every 20 to 30 min). Petrohue is a suitable starting point for packrafters that travel southbound with heavier fjord-suitable packrafting equipment.

Lago Todos los Santos: can get very rough with wind but we had two calm days with moderate wind in the late afternoon only. We paddled 40 km in two easy days. Only few of the originally dozens of settlers are still living on the shore and mostly the rich and super-rich of Chile have build vacation homes on the often steep coastline. But since the access to lakes and lake shores is legally guaranteed in Chile, this should not cause a significant problem.

Rio Blanco: 6 years ago we met a settler from Rio Blanco who confirmed that a horse trail traverses this valley and connects to the Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche). Now we came to investigate and record this route. The well maintained trail includes two river crossings that are well fordable in the morning after some reasonable dry days. Packrafters can cross these fords by packraft if the water level is elevated but hiker may struggle after heavy rain.

Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche): A well maintained but muddy horse trail connects to Lago Cayetue. Three river generally easy river crossings may become difficult to pass after heavy rain.

Conclusion: Connecting from El Callao to Rio Blanco requires a shorter and more wind protected lake traverse (compared to the current regular route to Cayetue) making it an attractive option for packrafters and southbound hikers if the weather is reasonable dry. I’m considering to change the Regular Route for this option and recommend the route via Cayetue in bad weather only.

El Callao to Cayetue: 22 km on direct route
El Callao to Rio Blanco: 14 km on direct route

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-04 to 2020-Jan-06 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

I accessed the southbound start of this section by walking 7km east from El Poncho on the dirt road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco (=Oh-Mr-V@20-0a-#001). From settlers Sergio and Sandro, I learned that Esteban is an alternative to Rudy for crossing Lago Todos los Santos. Esteban was able to take me immediately, whereas around the same time Linda (see below) unfortunately had to wait a couple of days. My experience of the rest of section was similar to others’.

* '''2020-Jan-03 to 2020-Jan-06 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

Starting on the beach of the North shore of Lago Rupanco (arriving from GPT20). Waypoint in Las Gaviotas Food and Lodging is great! Nelly prepared me a big glass of fresh raspberry juice.

Trail to Lago Todos Los Santos is easy and very nice. Only problem = the horse flies that loved me and I had at least 50 around me!

Stop at Las Termas! Beside the cold river, you will find a cabana with 2 bath tubes carved in wood full of hot thermal water. Amazing to camp and rest here.

Next house you will see on the trail is the one of Sergio. Very nice guy. He makes artisanal beer if you want to try one of them!

Then, as mentioned by Martin, in Refugio Dos cóndores, you can ask for the boat transfer of Lago Todos Los Santos to Rudy Jefi. 80000 CLP. I did and had to wait 2 days before crossing.

Other possibility for the boat transfer : when you arrive on the shore of Lago Todos Los Santos, ask the last house on the beach (waypoint = Settler) for Esteban. Same price 80000 CLP but you won't have necessarily to wait cause he seems to be more available than Rudy. Very nice man who offered me food and Lodging before I could cross the lake with Rudy! Say hello from me if you see him!!!

Between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Cayutué, trail not maintained for about 2 kilometers. Easiest way to overcome the obstacles is to go on the left in the open fields and then go back on the track. Not that difficult but expect to be slow.

Then, after Lago Cayutué, no problem. Easy Hitchiki'g to Cochaml where you will find everything to resupply. Very good accommodation = Patagonia Nativa!

* '''2019-DEC-23 to 2019-DEC-24 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Martín Lizondo'''

Trail perfectly walkable. Ask Rudy Yefi in Dos Condores for boat transfer to Pto. Cayuthue (CLP 80.000). After crossing Lago de Todos los Santos the minor road finishes in a 1 km unmantained trail. After 1 km the trail becomes opened and it gets better as you aproach to Laguna Cayuthue. River crossings are easy, less than knee level. From Ralun there’s a bus stop to Cochamó or Pto. Montt.

* '''2019-OCT-07 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

Refugio Las Termas is a great spot to camp out. Beside the cold river, the hot springs and the fire in the refugio are very nice after a hiking day.

* '''2019-NOV-01 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

The part between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todo Los Santos is a bit tricky. The last winter(s?) damaged the trail a lot. Rivercrossings are up to knee deep and there is a lot of trees and debris on the trail. In wide parts it is easyer to walk to the right or left of it. Also at one point it is likely that you have to jump/crawl some barbed wire to get around some fallen trees. In some parts it is bush bashing. Expect to be slow in this part.

The river crossing south of Lago Cayutué is easier a little bit further south than indicated by the track files. There is a tree as a bridge.

* '''2019-OCT-30 to 2019-NOV-04 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR from one km east of Ralun / Sophie & Hendrik'''

First day we camped at Lago Cayutué. Second day (to Lago Todos Los Santos) we had bad weather and were a lot slower than expected. (The trail is very damaged in this part, see recent alerts.) Due to health issues we stoped here and went to Puerto Varas for some days. We reentered the trail and only looked for a goat free campsite on our first day back (some 50min of walking). The next stops before we made it to the end of the section were Refugio Las Termas (we highly recommend to take a bath here) and Laguna Los Quetros.

What we liked: Very nice woods, beautiful lakes, very friendly and sympathetic people, crossing Todos Los Santos in an open boat in very heavy rain was harsh but beautiful, the termas, funny animals on the way.

What we did not like so much: In very long parts extremely muddy (probably depends on the season), the trail conditions between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todos Los Santos (which forced us to crawl beneath barbed wire).

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Shopping: Food
Cochamó: Possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but expensive. Some restaurants and many housing options.
Minimercado El Cruce at junction with the gravel road in Ralun, very basic. They have drinks, probably wine & possibly pasta.
There is a kiosk in Las Gaviotas by the beach with basic snacks & drinks but its opening hours are irregular.
On the road 1KM before Ralun NOBO there is a food truck but it only opens in the evenings after 5PM & may be closed in low season.
There are no other resupply options along the road Cochamo-Ralun although there are cabanas about every 4KM, some may provide food if you stay there.

*Services: Laundry
A local woman offers a laundry service from her home a few houses down a side street from the main road in Cochamó.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is nice camping at the small, scenic Laguna Los Quetros (Km6) near the northern start of the section. At the highly recommended Las Termas, around Km13, there is a small cabana with bath tubs carved of wood and full of hot thermal water. Settlers along the trail are interesting and welcoming.

*2022 / Yannic & Mirjam
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m.
(...)
We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted.

=Transport to and from Route=

*Southbound and northbound hiking is feasible and recommended. It may be easier to arrange a southbound than a northbound boat crossing of Lago Todos de Los Santos.

*2023 December / Lauren & Sebastian
Southbound from Entre Lagos to Las Gaviotas:

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to intersection south of Lago Rupanco, from there we continued to hitchhike for a bit, but eventually a bus came (around 3:30 pm, CLP 1500 per person, I’m not sure where started though…) that brought us to Puerto Poncho, from there we took the ferry to Las Gaviotas (4:30 pm, CLP200 per person)

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals.

*2022 / Alice & Florian
We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day).Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

*Access to Start

Northbound:
The bus leaves Puerto Montt main bus terminal (07:45, 12:00, 3:30PM & 5PM on weekdays, runs on weekends also but weekend schedule may differ) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada & Ralun to Cochamó. Get off at Ralun crossroads (intersection with a small gravel road near Minimercado EL Cruce) if you don`t want to walk 15KM on the road from Cochamo to Ralun.

Southbound:
Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday 7:00 & 16:30 Wednesday 2:30 PM, Friday 7:00 & 16:30, Sunday 15:00. Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus. Ferry Puerto Buey-Las Gaviotas Monday or Tuesday 8:00 & 17:30, Wednesday 15:30, Friday 8:00 & 17:30, Sunday 16:00. A bus coming from Osorno outside Terminal Rural goes to Puerto Buey to connect with the ferry on operational days, timetable not known. Ask at info. desk in Osorno Terminal Rural. No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
In addition to accessing through GPT20, it is possible to take private transportation on the road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco and walk the final 5-7km to the northern start point of GPT21.

*Return from Finish

Northbound:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but there are more busses from there.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT21 - Lago Todos Los Santos]]

=Images=

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2025-12-10T03:08:34Z

Nimrod: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* '''GPT21 5-8/12/25 / 4 days / Hiking / WEBO / OH03 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel

5/12 — Colonia Suiza → Laguna Negra

Took a bus to Colonia Suiza (using SUBE card but you can just use your credit as well).
The ascent to the lagoon was mostly easy and well marked with a steeper section toward the end.

Distance: 11 km
Ascent: 963 m
Descent: 163 m

6/12 — Laguna Negra → Campsite After the Pass (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W)

After breakfast at the hut, we packed and began the climb to the first pass, which offered an impressive reflection of Laguna Negra.
We then continued ascending toward Laguna CAB on a partially marked and steep trail. We did some bush bashing but connected to the trail after 10 or so minutes. The GPX is fairly accurate and it easy to miss the marks. The weather was hot, and there were many biting flies. ( bring some fly spray) We took our shoes off and crossed the lagoon from the other side (the gpx trail is from the opposite side but longer) along its edge and stopped for lunch.
Afterward, we climbed another pass with beautiful views. The beginning of the ascent was not clearly marked.
During the descent, Shmuel and Shai lost track of unintentionally followed a difficult scrambling route. The Route is marked with rock cairns but easy to miss.

Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 1,067 m
Descent: 1,176 m

7/12 — Campsite (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W) → Laguna Ilón

Well marked, steep accents and decents. (Need to use hands for sure). Mostly well marked, a bit confusing near Jujuy. It was an hoilday and a lot of people camped at the laguna. Campsite is 20000 pesos per person. I was told after I paid there is a wild camping spot pretty closeby.

Distance: 12.5 km
Ascent: 955 m
Descent: 1,058 m

8/12 — Laguna Ilón → Pampa Linda

Easy route down, and well marked. The road is closed till 16:00, rested by the river till then. Was super easy to hitchhike back to bariloche. Maybe because of the holiday. Where is a weak free wifi near the visiter center.

Distance: 8.5 km
Ascent: 112 m
Descent: 632 m

Annoyances : the horse fly bite ever through the shirt, bring some bug spray

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 5/5

* '''GPT21 / 2025-12-01 and 02 / 2 days / Packrafting Sobo / Option 5A and Lago Cayetue side trip / Lago Todos los Santos from Petrohue to Lago Cayetue / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This route is a suitable southbound season start for packrafters with heavier packrafting gear that wish to minimize hiking in favor of more packrafting.

Public transportation to Petrohue at the western terminus of Lago Todos los Santos is simple. Take a minibus from the Puerto Montt bus station to Puerto Varas (every 5 to 10 minutes) and tell the bus driver that you wish to take another minibus to Petrohue. The bus drive will drop you off in the center of Puerto Varas at a bus stop where the buses to Petrohue stop (every 30 minutes).

In Petrohue are two camp sites on the other side (southern) of the slow moving river just where Lago Todos los Santos ends and drains into Rio Petrohue. Packrafters best stay at one of these camp sites to start paddling with the first light on the next morning when conditions are typically calmer. Motor boats bring people to these camp sites (boat crossing 1000 CLP / camping 5000 CLP) so packrafters don’t need to inflate the boat for a 50 m river crossing.

Wind typically blows westbound on the lake main body. The lake arm Cayetue is generally less windy but the typical wind blows northbound (“viento sur”). On a typical sunny day wind starts between 10:00 and 12:00 and calms down after 18:00. Therefore starting very early is the best strategy to complete the lake crossing in one day.

There are quite some emergency exits along the water route if wind and waves force you out of the water. Note that most buildings along the shore are now vacation retreats of the rich and super-rich and not the homes of settlers. A good number of these luxury buildings are equipped alarm systems so be cautious when exploring these upscale buildings to avoid a visit by caretaker. If you are forced to camp somewhere along the shore then best choose a hidden spot that is not easily visible from water nor from the buildings.

We packrafted in 6 hours from Petrohue to Cayetue. The best lake exit is just west of Rio Conchas (41° 13′ 40.5″ S / 72° 16′ 0.8″ W) and not as indicated in the track files at the small port. This extends the water route by 1.5 km and reduces hiking by the same distance.

The trail from the lake exit to Lago Cayetue is well maintained.

Lago Cayetue and Rio Conchas is a nice side trip. You can packraft the Rio Conchas from the lake drain 1 km downstream (very little flow) and from lake feed 2.5 km upstream.

Hikers that need a northbound boat transfer from Cayetue may call Eduardo (+56 9 7515 2075). He is a caretaker of the vacation retreat where Rio Conchas flows into Lago Todos los Santos.

* '''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Daniel.s'''

Started at Puerto Poncho, from Entre Lagos hitchhiking is the only way. Plan a half day to get anywhere on this side of Lago Rupanco.

Day 1: Paddling is straight forward, tailwind in the afternoon usually. The hike from las Gaviotas is easy to find and maintained, used by cattle at L. Los Quetros, where I camped (no one there). In summer tabanos and mud (after rain) will be your dominant enemies.

Day 2: hiked all the way to Lago Todos los Santos, trail easily followabel. At arrival (~15:00) wind was moderate at shore, strong in the middle of the lake, made a few kilometers to a little sheltered beach (S 41° 03.993', W 072° 11.689') where I spent the night.

Day 3:
Early start (4:30am) to use the calm hours. Arrived at southern end ( S 41° 13.706', W 072° 16.019') around 11am, then hiked to L. Cayutué and up to the parking for the day-hikers (S 41° 18.052', W 072° 16.309') where I got a lift all the way to Cochamó quickly (to avoid hiking down 10 kms of dusty gravel road).

'''2025-01-21 to 2025-01-24 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

- Road from Entre Lagos to Puerto poncho does not have much traffic. Hitchike may take long.

- Because of that I started at lago Rupanco quite late (12.00). Waves were big but ok with decked packraft.

- Laguna's los quetros and the thermal baths are perfect camp spots. As for 22th of January there is no one , so it's free.

- Water is easily to find on the route every hour or so l. So no need to carry

- The trail goes trough beautiful forest. Can be very muddy if it recently rained alot.

- You can beautiful camp at the Northern shore of Laguna de los Santos. To cross the lake next day early morning.

- I started at 7 and at 8 there were already huge waves. In the afternoon it calmed down. Crossing took a whole day.

- The entry of Rio conchas is not at the first entry but more downstream.

- camping next to Rio Conchas has awesome fishing

- The haucho there said in the winter Rio conchas flows to Lago dos Santos and in the summer it flows to the Laguna.

- Just before the lake Rio Conchas turns into a small stream so you need to carry the packraft (100m).

==Season 2024/25==

*''' 2025-02-24 to 2025-03-03 / 9 days / Hiking+ferry / SOBO / var 21-01 + RR + ferry + 21-02 from Puerto Callao + 21-02 A (Refugio Otto Mailing) + 21-02 B (Refugio Viejo) + RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: I started at Puerto Las Gaviotas. I did not make it to 19 stages because I would like to cross the border as quickly as possible. I found Uber tel.+56 9 8716 2865 who took me for 50,000 clp to Las Gaviotas. I can recommend him. The road was not easy and the price is fair because from Entre Lagos it was 70 km. Then I took OH 1. Very nice path in the forest but a little moody after rain. Near Termas de Rudy trail passes for private terrain. Diana, who is the owner, invited me for tea. She also offers camp for 5,000 clp and has Termas. There also lives his son, Alejandro. There I have met two Chilean girls. They were frightened after passing bridges in variant RR. From the house of Diana, take variant AA, not RR. On RR at point .... there is a bridge. But I decided to go through the river. After the rain, the current was strong and the level of water was till my hips. I passed the night at Refugio Los Condores. Laura, mujer de Rudy, was very polite. She took me to his house, in the cabana there were some people. For hospedaje, cena, desayuno I paid 40,000 clp. The cena was very big and the desayuno also.
You can also buy eggs, bread, honey , beer. When I was in Entre Lagos I wrote Rudy to order a boat, refugio and food. Also he ordered for me a place at the ferry Elizabeth III for the next day. I paid for the boat to the ferry 15,000 clp.

Day 2: From Refugio Dos Condores to Puerto Callao, it took me 1.5 hours, but I recommend 2 hours. Two bridges were very solid. At Puerto Callo, I was waiting for Augustino, the son of Rudy. The ferry Elizabeth III arrived at 4:30 p.m. with a half-hour delay. During the journey, we took and left passengers at different ports. Finally, I reached Puerto Puella at 8 p.m. I slept at Hotel Puella for 40,000 clp with breakfast. But you can try Hotel Natura. The next day, one girl said to me that she had paid 30,000 clp. I was very lucky that transporting between ports had worked well for a normal price, together 20,000 clp.

Day 3: In the morning, I crossed the border of Chile without a problem. I still had three days for my stay. The road from Puella is a little boring but easy. I joined a group who went to "Riggy". From there, I had very spectacular views of Tronador. Afterward, I came back and spent the night near a refugio in a tent. The refugio is private. One person said to me that it belonged to carabineros, and another that it belonged to Hotel Natura.

Day 4: In the morning, I reached Aduana, Argentina. But the officials went at 12:30 on a boat from Bariloche. They did not like me to give a stamp of entrada to Argentina. But finally, the women gave me a paper to fill out and gave me a stamp. The men were impolite. Then I took a very nice trail "Paso por las Nubes". You had to pass some bridges. The trail went through the forest and is very easy. The night I spent in Refugio Alfonso Roca. A lot of people were there, but the views of the glacier were spectacular. The price for a night was 60,000 clp. You need a first reservation for WhatsApp. I had not, but it was a place for me. Payment only in cash.

Day 5: The trail went down through the forest. It was very easy. All fallen trees were cut down and easy to cross, and there were bridges saved. I decided to take variant 21-02A to refugio Otto Mailing, also paying 60,000 pesos argentinos for the night. They had also places for tents for 14,000 pesos argentinos. You can pay by card but with an additional 10%. The views of the glacier were incredible. The trail from Pampa Linda is very popular and very well signed.
Unfortunately, it was raining and there were a lot of clouds, but still I could see the glacier. This refugio has a very nice atmosphere. Because of bad weather, there were not a lot of people.

Day 6: It was a very rainy day. I started very early from Pampa Linda. At the border control, the man was very polite. He gave me two stamps: entrance and exit. And filled out a paper in three copies. I did not make any requests in Pampa. The Paso Viriloche trail was well signed, and the next day was the maratón to Ralun. I would like to take variant 21-B, but the carabinero stopped me because of bad weather. He was very polite. Because of bad weather, he invited me and two other people to something like a house and also took our clothes and shoes for drying. We slept on the floor and made a fire inside.

Day 7: The weather was excellent so I took 21B to refugio viejo. This place is amazing with views on Tronador. Finally I was walking together with three carabinieros, they had patrol. They took care of me. We went a little up after refugio to see glaciers. Tronador is amazing. After descending I took my things and went to refugio Huenchupen at km 86.9 of 21-02. I slept on the floor.

Day 8: Next day very rainy, so I was walking very fast through forest and mundo terrain. Night at puesto at km 26.4 of variant 21-04 close to RR. There were not poblador. We put tents together with two chilenos and two argentinos in house for animals. Water we find close from small stream.

Day 9: Crazy day. Next day in the predicción heavy rain, so I decided to reach Ralun, 37 km to go. All rivers all the way had increased water level because of rain. But only Rio Conchas was demanding: water above knee level and strong current. Finally I reached Ralun. I slept at hospedaje for 30 k clp, there is also cabana there for 40 k clp. The first house at the left. The owner is Margot, phone:+56 9 8716 2865. In shop el cruce very good asortiment. Next day I went to Puerto Montt to take my deposit with food. Bus at 6.50 and last at 8.00. Last from Puerto Montt at 4 p.m, at terminal you can buy ticket at shop number 37.

*'''2025-01-03 to 2025-03-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy

After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.

The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.

At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
So if you want to do this new option (OH03D) it is better to start directly in Villa las Coihues.

I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!

Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.

The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.

Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!

There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.

At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.

From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.

Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.

On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.

Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏

The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!

*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''

There is a detailed report of Natalie and Tomáš from January 2024 so I'll just add the differences/changed things.

I took the formal OH3 so I began in Colonia Suiza.

To get there from Bariloche by bus, need to bye a SUBE card (or ask someone to pay for you with it in the bus and give cash directly). These cards can only be found at the Centro Civico Bariloche in the center. Then you have to go in one of the many kiosko with SUBE in the city to pay and charge it. It was 1.5k for the card and needed to charge 4k to go untill Colonia Suiza. The bus 10 goes there directly from the city center but not much per day. Other solution is to take bus 20 and then an other one. Easy to find out in ggmaps or app moovit.

Untill laguna negra, it's an easy trail, overrun at this season.
Camp at 16.1, close to nice river.

Pass at 20.1 is easy and the view is awesome.

Going up to laguna CAB : there are some falen trees, trail a bit harder to follow. At this point -41,14666, -71,61216 intersection with an other more evident trail but it's not the good one, which is hide behind a log.

First beach of laguna CAB is very nice, stopped there to eat and swim, water at perfect temperature in the afternoon and no annoying insects.

Then steep ascent to the pass at 28.0. Up there, I found navigation a bit confusing. Sometimes lots of cairns in several direction. No trail as it's only big scrambling rocks. Begining of the descent is hard and take time.

Camp at the 2nd camp spot close to Mallin Mate Dulce. This one was nicer than the first. Good river flowing close and sort of a waterfall with a bassin. But so much mosquitoes that I ate and mostly stayed in my tent.
This day was only 15km but feels way more. Lots of elevation gain and loss, slow evolution (and also I had a very heavy backpack).

Next pass at 33.5, navigation easier with some red/blue marks, steep ascent and descent that often demand using of hands (especially begining of the descent !!). I saw my first condor up there, incredible moment.

After laguna Creton, everything gets easier (and faster) : navigation, terrain and steepness !

Note : camp spot just under laguna Creton (with waterfall and bassin) and the one close to Laguna Jujuy (probably a bit exposed if big wind but there are little stonewalls to pitch the tent) seems really nice to spent the night !

The view is awesome all along the ridge till pass 38.4.

Easy descent to laguna Ilon. Lots of people camp here coming from pampa linda (12k/pp for camping). Still nice spot to rest a bit, perfect to swim, shade, dry toilets and drinking water.

Easy descent to pampa linda with really nice views on the tronador !

Pampa linda : restaurants (expensive!), campings (saw one at 8k without shower). Free wifi that worked really well in all town (at least in the morning when not much people there), I could even had a WhatsApp videocall with perfect quality.

Gendarmería : easy and fast. No date in the paper so I guess it's not compulsory to get to the carabineros the exact same day.

Carabineros : very chill, they don't check my bag at all, no form to fill, so I didn't finished all my prohibited food as previoused and I passed the border with cheese, nuts, dry fruits,... Possible to let them things to go up to refugio viejo.

Refugio viejo tronador : long but mostly easy going up to the refugio, awesome landscapes. I splept there in a high windy night, the refuge is very basic but a good schelter.

Puesto at 86.9 is not a puesto but a refuge. There is a table outside with an awesome view on the tronador. No bed inside but could probably be a good shelter to pitch the tent in bad weather. Water in the river flowing just few meters down (not in OSM).

Camp at 88.9 : the spot with the river is really nice to have a swim with large bassins. Only fits 1 tent I think.

In Gaia there are 2 others refugio on the map. Refugio Seba --> nothing. Refugio Vuriloche --> seems more like the house of a settler. The termas are at wrong place on Gaia map.

I did a short day to enjoy the termas and shelter from rain, multiple nice and clean bassins.
-41,24628, -72,04855 : flat spot to camp, tables, fire.
-41,24701, -72,04806 : first trail go down here to the river. 1 bassin just down and one closer to the river.
-41,24813, -72,04712 : 2nd trail go to the bridge (the one in OSM). Just before there are 2 other nice bassins, hoter !!
I was there with a group of 16 argentinians who make the traverse every year, they know the settler, told me the use of hot springs is free !
I saw him the next morning. He sells bread and killed a lamb for the group (but maybe need to be asked in advance for that?).

Then trail sometimes muddy/sleepery but mostly in good conditions even after a rainy night !
Fords of Rio Conchas up to knee.

Camp just after ford 28.6.

In total, it was a very nice section with awesome landscapes, especially OH3 and the refugio viejo!! Took me about 7 days with some short days.

*'''2025-JAN-17 to 2025-JAN- / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We combined stages 20 and 21, starting with food supplies for both stages (4 days). This stage with enough water, mostly leads through dense Valdivian forest. The highlight for us was the view of the Puntiagudo and Osorno volcanoes from Lago Todos los Santos, where you need to arrange transportation to the opposite shore.

Following variant 01, the trail ascends to Laguna Los Quetros through dense forest along a cow path carved into the terrain. At Laguna Los Quetros, there are many beautiful camping spots, benches, fire pits, and a dry toilet. We met the owners of this campsite at the beginning of the stage, and they told us that the campsite usually has a fee, but they didn’t feel like going up that day, so we could stay for free.
The ford [19.1/650] was crossed dry-footed. The bridges along the trail were quite fragile or improvised, for example, the bridge [20.3/419] is suitable only for the brave due to its condition. At the point Food, Lodging, Ferry [21.1+0.2/415], no one was there, so we continued to Settler, Lodging, Ferry [23.2/432], where you can buy breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as bread, eggs, honey, soda, and beer. We also learned that the boat to the other side of Lake Todos los Santos was expected to depart the following day (Sunday) around noon. Therefore, we reached the lake and decided to wait until the next day. However, the owner of one of the boats appeared and offered to take us to the Cayutue port for 120,000 CLP. We eventually negotiated the price down to 100,000 CLP. He dropped us off outside the track files at coordinates (-41.22695, -72.26297), where there is a sheltered terrace where you can stay overnight. In addition to tables, benches, and a grill, there is also a water tap. From there, we set out on a new route, mostly across pastures, visible on navigation tools. The settler at coordinates (-41.25020, -72.25722) allowed us to pass through his property, though he didn’t seem too pleased about it. We rejoined the RR trail at the transition from MR to TL approximately at km [57.2]. From Lago Cayutue, we encountered many people who were out on a weekend walk. The rest of the way to Cochamó was peaceful.

* ''' 2025-JAN-17 > 18 / 1 jours (30km) / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 21-A > RR > END km 30 / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : nuageux
| Eau : rare
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Si la neige ne fond pas, il n'y a pas d'eau entre le km 4,5 et le km 19,0. Je n'ai pas pu faire ma lessive. Le RR va dans la riviere au km 20,3 alors j'ai pris le 21-A qui est le chemin officiel. Le (vendredi) soir au refuge Dos Condores, on me dit que le ferry ne passe que certains jours. Je dois donc attendre le dimanche 12h00... Je n'ai pas compris où allait le ferry car le monsieur parlait très mal et je comprend mal l'espagnol. Bref je pense que c'est très difficile de trouver un bateau El Callao > Cayutué. Le lendemain je suis descendu au port par la derniere section plutôt boueuse, espérant un miracle. Et le miracle était là... un groupe de 15 jeune randonneur (14-18ans) de Puerto Varas avec un guide qui attendent leur bateau... Je suis rentré avec eux à Petrohue gratuitement. J'avoue qu'après la section 18 et 20, et ce plan foireux de ferry, ma motivation avait totalement disparu. Mais je repars de plus belle vers le GPT22. Bus de 12h00 entre Petrohue et la route 225, tentative infructueuse d'auto-stop vers Cochamo mais bus à 12h45. Je n'ai pas pu faire la seconde partie du GPT21 malheureusement. Mais je suis content d'être sorti de ce cul de sac.

* '''2025-01-14 / 6 hours / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 8 / Tomáš'''
While Natalie was resting in Puerto Varras, I took the same bus like last year at 8:38 from next to our hostel (-41.32710, -72.96598) and got dropped at the bridge where Option 8 starts an hour later (2500 CLP). Unlike last year, the bus was half-empty. The approach is MR, no CC. Rio Huenuhuenu does not have that much water - it is navigable, but you will hit the ground from time to time probably. Also, there are some sticks, that are due to narrowness of the river not so always to avoid (just walk your biat here and there). It took me 40 minutes to get to Rio Petrahue, which is deep and wide and while it has momentum, so you go fast, is not technical at all. There are logs and sticks but they are extremely easy to avoid. It was raining and I stopped for about two hours at Hot Spring {21-08} [24.2/29] (Termas de Ralun). They are free and popular (with both Chilians and foreigners) - there have always been other people. So probably not good for camping or washing, but great warm up. They can fit 10+ people. Tide reaches there and it somewhat elevated my boat even though I put it on the beach previously. Luckily it did not flow away. Due to high tide, Rapid {21-08} [25.1/30] was nonexistent. Camp {21} [79.3/7] is paid, I think, this is private land. Without stopping at the hot spring, Rio Petrohue would have taken me 3 hours to go down. I managed to lose my inReach in my transparent dry bag there, but recovered it later (see next entry). Hitched first car to Puerto Varras. All in all maybe due to rain and clouds, I did not find it very scenic, but listening to a podcast and eating strawberries while just floating down the river was a treat.

* '''2025-01-6/ 1 / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&OP 8/ Davide'''

Together with Volker I took Elisabeth III for Petrahue at Lagos todos Los Santos. While he proceeded for the climb of Vulcan Osorno I continued my packrafting trips starting a bit after Petrohue (Los Pollos). The official track of the GPT (21) start back at the intersection between Rio Hueñu Hueñu and Rio Petrohue, and for good reasons. The rapids starting at Los Pollos are locally famous for guided trips and rated at III+, so I don't suggest them for unaware packrafter. DO NOT try if inexperienced.

On the other hand the rest of the river is a glorious enjoyment up to its end at estero Reloncavi.

Be mindfull at the delta of Rio Hueñu Hueñu to Rio Petrohue, there are many trees in the river, and the left-most branch of the delta is completely blocked by a fallen tree transversal to the flow. Care must be given also for the remaining trait of the river.

This route overall represents a possible variation to existing tracks to not have to go to Puerto Varas if passing to Petrohue. While it is a bit more dangerous, it can substitute the hike of the RR to a day on paddling in the river downstream.

* '''2025-01-10 to 2025-01-12/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&RP (ridge) / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Note: I wrote this when out of service without reading the last three new entries, so many things could be repeated, apologies.

Day 01: El Poncho to Cenizo basin; ~14km
After a short paddle from our, "alternative hot spring camp" (see gpt20), we arrived at El Poncho port. Unfortunately like others have said, there is no infrastructure there, the GPT has it misplaced. There is just one vacation home and SWARMS of tabaños. This was disappointing because I (Natalie) wasn't careful during the last resupply stop and did not buy enough food. Tomáš set up the tent to organize our things and I wasted an hour swinging a paddle into thin air trying to kill as many tabaños as I could. I will be having a good laugh for a while when I think back to what the Chileans must have thought when they saw me walking along the road, wearing a neon colored drysuit, and swinging a paddle up a down like a lunatic. I was very close to the skipping point as my body was exhausted from stomach issues that started at the beginning of gpt19, but eventually I came to terms. Plus, Tomáš had plenty of extra food as a back up so we set off around 12:30.
The trail is an old CONAF trail and there is an covered seating area/shelter near the start (no water). The trail was in surprisingly good shape and well traveled until the turn off for the gpt trail around -40.89986, -72.27375. We recommend taking the left fork (on OSM), it looked more traveled than the right and it went well (Tomáš of course cleared some bamboo to make it more obvious, hope it helps). There is also a stick blocking the GPT route at the top when they connect again. The OSM route first takes you to two settler houses, except if you hit the second s
house, you have gone too far, the trail veers upwards in the grass just before the second. After that it is pretty easy to stay on route, there are just a couple of alternative paths that intersect at times. The last one km of the OSM route is a bit overgrown, but it is just annoying, not slowing you down. There is no water until past the "Camping Alerces". If you plan to camp there, you can walk westward ~300m to a good flowing creek that should hopefully provide water year round..
After the camping, it's a walk up a semi dry creek bed until a waterfall blocks further advancement. The trail leaves the creek bed on your left about 100 m before this waterfall, Tomáš magnified the cairns there so hopefully you can see it. Then it's a simple but steep at times walk to the ridge, absolutely amazing views of Puntiagudo (Osorno's evil stepsister) and the the surrounding area. I give the ridge walk a 10/10 for views. We slept (the night was thankfully windless) in the basin underneath Volcan Cenizo. If there is snow and sun you may find water in the afternoon/evening, but no water in the morning/early afternoon so the last water would have been the waterfall.

Day 02: Volcan basin to Lago Todos Los Santos; 20 km
The next day was very straightforward. We hiked up Cenizo , aiming more to towards the north ridge for easier climbing. The peak to it's east looks like a possible fun scramble (from the west!) if you find a good way (without bag of course). There was no snow melt on the way down and like Roman has mentioned the turn off into the forest can be easily missed; -40.95687, -72.18367. The path down was in surprisingly good shape, lots of orange cut marks as well. The tabaños were in FULL force in the valley. They were the worst around the hotspring 19.2. The hotsprings are in a locked shed and nobody is living in that spot, they live a little further down valley on the trail (Sergio?). The worst of the tabaños were there but they continued to be terrible anytime we were not in the shade of the forest. We had lunch at the main hub of the valley; Refugio Dos Condors (aka Laura and her son Augustin, Rudy being the head of the family?). They are formally set up to take guests, so it is unlikely they will ever "not" be there. They have a couple menu's and prices for alternative requests. We had lunch for 16mil each. It was well worth it for my sake because I had been under fueled for a while. I also bought eggs (300pp), bread (400pp) and half a kilo of honey (3mil). Tomáš was overjoyed to be able to eat as mucj cherries from their trees as he could and also some raspberries. They are notnripe yet, should stay available maybe till end of month? We then made good time and got to the beach "ferry" early enough to rest before an early morning paddle the next day. P.s. we almost accidentally went to the beach of the settler to the east of the ferry, seemed like a prettier spot. Also, if you camp at the ferry, there is a large light near the boats/trail entrance, so I suggest camping on the far right (loling onto the beach from the lake). There was a trickle of water that seemed questionable, so our last source of water was the bridge 27.1.

Day three: Lago Todos Los Santos (TLS) to Petrohue - 22 km
We chose to go to Petrohue as we have walked to Ralun last year via Argentina. Tomáš had the idea of crossing the lake and then following the south shore of TLS as it was less distance. I hesitated as I didn't trust the lake, so the safest option sounded like the north shore, but we had a good weather window so we went with Tomáš's suggestion, making one quick stop on the island (a nice stop if it wasn't for the tabaños. Sadly we had almost no tabanos before the stop but after that they followed us to the end - must have killed over a hundred). In the morning we set off at ~6:15am and glad we didn't set of any later. One reason being the attack of the horseflies while paddling but mainly because when we got 1km close to the end we got hit by some strong headwind and waves. Advancement was slow but we made it (altogether the section took us 48 hours). A tourist boat came to us looking panicked but we assured them we would make it. Goes to show that it is true, conditions can change VERY fast and I am personally glad we were not any further from shore. Petrohue is an awful touristy place. Bus to Puerto Varras leaves every half an hour and there were swarms of cars with tourists. There are several telecommunications towers, but no working Entel internet (Edge!).

* '''25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker'''

Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.

Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).

Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.

*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''

Very scenic but quite demanding

Day 0: We hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to Puerto Rico. We were lucky, it took us just three cars and a we waited in total less than 15 minutes. We got out of the 3rd car 1 km after the start of the RR at a small beach of Lago Rupanco, but the Tabano situation forced us to leave the beach at once. Haunted by dozens of horse-flies we went up to the MR road at this point -40,89289, -72,27335. At the last house (big wooden house after last gate on the MR), we found Robin that was really nice and help full, speaks english. She offers very nice rooms in a calm and beautiful house away of the tabaños, has a big kitchen were you can cook. Paradise to rest a night.

In the evening we wrote a message to Rudy, made a reservation for the refugio Los Condores and the hotsprings on the way for the day after.
The number to make reservation : +56950180447.
Camping + hot tubes 12k
Refuge : camping 6k, hospedaje 12k. Desayuno 10k, almuerzo o cena 16k. Everything is homemaid by his wife. She also cell bread, eggs, bebidas.

Day 1: We started at 8.30 on the RR, first hours in the forest (no water! You hear a small river, but the access seemed very difficult), then CC on the volcanic plateau.

On the trail up, we pass throught settlers land, they were nice but told us that they charge people of 5k each when they go by this trail that is on their land.

Ascent to the pass on very steep volcanic gravel. 1300 m of altitude only to this point. Great view on the very close Volcan Puntiagudo. From now on much snow, but no running water. The ascent on Cerro Cenizo is very, very steep, we went partly on snow, partly on volcanic gravel. When you arrive at the summit (1640m) you have climbed all in all around 2000m of altitude. We arrived at 3 p.m. and had still a descent of 1200 m of altitude before us. Very steep down, when the CC ends less steep on the trail. First running water only close to the junction with OH1.

Rudy had opened the hut with 2 wooden bassins at 19.2 (one too hot to enter, the other one perfect, but it‘s not the same as a natural bassin with a hot spring). We arrived at the refugio los condores 23.2 at 7 p.m. and got a great dinner (and two rooms in the lovely hut). This was a really long and very physical day.

Day 2: Clara went back to Lago Rupanco, Volker continued to Lago Todos Santos.

Clara :
took OH 1 to get to Las Gaviotas. Very easy trail compared to RR. Should be muddy in rain weather. There are more parallel trails, some are in OSM, frequently used.
Laguna Los quetros was full of tabaños so I went directly down.

No boat at Las gaviotas to go to puerto buey.
Easy to hitchhike if you walk a bit the beginning of the road.

Volker: Rudy‘s price for the boat transfer over the Lago Todos Santos is now at 150k, which is a no-go. But the Elizabeth III boat from Peulla to Petrohue passes by on the lake on mo/wed/friday at around 9 a.m. It does not stop at the beach! Rudy called his cousin down at the lake and arranged an apppintment at 8.30 on the beach. So I started at 6 a.m. at Rudy’s, arrived after two hours of easy walking (mud at the beginning; can be done in 1,5hrs) at the beach and 30 minutes later Esteban arrived with his small boat. Once he saw the ferry approaching, we got to the middle of the lake, where I changed the boat. Rudy told me, Esteban would charge 5k, it was 10, but I was happy with that, too. On the ferry they took 5k (less than 1k for locals, but again….). It took 2,5hrs to Petrohue. Probably it would have been even possible to continue to Cochamo on the RR. Before going to Perrohue, the ferry went to the Rio Conchas bay, again one person was brought to the ferry on a small boat. It would probably have been possible to get on this small boat and to start the RR at the beach.
But my plan was to climb the V. Osorno.

The very nice guy at the Conaf in Petrohue told me, that shops to rent the gear are in Ensenada (Terra SUR, at the junction of the road coming from Peteohue). From Ensenada I hitchhiked to Refugio teskiclub (close to the Ski station, single room: 23k the night, food). The much less friendly Conaf guy at the station there (150m behind the refuge) told me in the evening, that I have to come in the morning and he will not allow me as a solo hiker to go to the summit, if there is no other registrated group. What a stupid rule! Luckily when I started at 5.a.m. in the morning he was obviously sleeping. Just don’t go to the station and you will have no problems! There were groups - and they didn’t registrer. It took me 3 hours first on volcanic gravel, later on steep and harsh snow to get to the summit. Breathtaking view all the time, highly recommended to all gpt-hikers , which are experienced in walking with crampons.

* '''From 2024-12-25 to 2024-12-28 // packrafting // NOBO // rp opt 2 // Nic, Lukas, Basil, Max'''

Starting out from cochamo on Christmas Day we were able to hitch a ride to Ralún after 8km. Went another 25 or so until we camped in an open pasture.

Overall Route is a bit muddy even though it was dry but very passable in these conditions. Tabanos were mental. Sometimes 50 or so swarm you making stopping for more than a few seconds very annoying. They don’t like smoke or night time.

In day two Ford (22.0/226, La Flecha) was difficult to pass and the continuation of the trail is a bit hidden. After the main crossing go all the way down on the right side of the islet and there is a small crossing to the other side where the trail continues.

After the settler at 15.6/232 (Aroldo) we couldn’t find a way to the port farther down (very muddy and no clear path from his house). So we camped a bit farther down from the pack raft route that starts at the last fork. We camped on a sandy bank and were easily able to pack raft out of the shallow waters the next morning.

Starting a 6:30 am in the morning we packrafted approx. 16km to el Callao in about 4-4.5 hours with no wind. Walked and camped at the “hot springs” afterwards. They were basically nonexistent (would have to pay to unlock a weird house with maybe some warm water). We unfortunately talked to the settlers on the way there because there was a cow dying. They were uninterested in the cow and just wanted money for the hot springs. After setting up camp, the settler showed up and awkwardly asked us for 6000 clp each to which we happily paid because we realized we were on their land.

We then took the route over Cerro cenizo. Absolutely worth it but quite technical with the volcanic rocks and snow. Instead of taking the packs up the mountain we went up without and then went back down and around to join up with the route again. The route down is also easy to find. Be aware that el poncho is a bit of a long stretch of houses and the resupply is not where it’s marked currently. There are a few houses on the way that sell stuff but a real Mercado is further down the road in Rupanco.

* '''From 2024-12-20 to 2024-12-23 // packrafting // 3 days // NOBO RR // Mara, Tobias'''

No difficulties and just a few tabanos on this beautiful section. Crossed Lago Todos Los Santos from Rio Petrohue with little wind in 1.5 days. Camped day 2 beside refuge -41.00172, -72.16788 for 6000CPS per person. Laura and Augustin were happy to sell us fresh bread, lettuce and eggs. Trail is in a good condition (compared to other sections). Met no other hikers but friendly settlers.

* '''17th to 20th dec 2024 / / Hiking / sobo var 1 + RR + boat + bus / Allie'''

I attempted the RR over cerro cenizo in bad weather early december and then i had tendinite at my achilles so took a three week break at lago rupanco.
On this trip i hitchhiked to las gaviotas. From there the hike to refugio el callao is easy. The sign says it takes 9 hours to get to the refugio, but it can be done in 6 hours easlily in my opinion. I took a nice break at the termas, which were open by chance. Its two carved out tree trunks. I walked another 3 km to the refugio. +56 9 5018 0447 this is the number of rudi yefi that keeps it. Any boat information can be asked to him.
The 18th i went halfway up the cerro cenizo on a day hike. The trail is easy to follow.
The 19th of december i didnt do anything because of bad weather.
The 20th i went down from the refugio to todos los Santos. Rudis son drives a lancha that brings you to the boat to petrohue. The boat over todos los santos to petrohue costs 5000clp for foreigners. From there i took a bus to puerto varas and then a bus to cochamo.

* '''From 2024-12-8 to 2024-12-11 // 3 day // Hiking // SOBO // Las Gaviotas - RR // Mo'''
Found s.o. who dropped me at Las Gaviotas, then walked to the Termas which were open (luckily), slept there, went down to the beach Puerto El Callao/ El Rincon and waited for my boat I organised beforehand (80000 pesos) that took me to Petrohue.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.

Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.

She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.

80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.

Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).

Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.

The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.

Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).

Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.

* '''2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian'''

From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.

I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.

Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.

From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.

Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!

The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.

Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.

Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.

{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!

Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.

Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.

Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!

Km28.6 : go through the gate.

Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.

Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.

From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.

From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)

Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.

I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.

Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.

For bus schedule:

10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min

* '''2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: Beginning of this is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is the end of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is an extension of GPT21, option 2.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1740951703077375/.]

Overview (sorry for the length):

Since the mountains of Bariloche are a bit of a playground of trails, we did a variation of mainly high trails starting from Laguna Guiterezz and onward to Pampa Linda (joining Option 3 midway) and then followed the "Jesuitos/Vuriloche" route to Ralún (Option 2). We had a few short and a few long days to make a total of 6,5 days.

For the Bariloche part we wanted to go Lago Guiterezz – Lago Frey (via optional valley) – Refugio Jacob – Refugio Italiana (behind which you join Option 3) and out via Lago Ilón to Pampa Linda. However since I banged up my knee I separated from Tomáš. He went on to do the high route as planned from Jacob and I went down the Huella Andina and then back up via the Laguna Azul trail to meet near Laguna Creton.

Re-supply is possible but expensive and with limited variety at Pampa Linda, so bringing most of your food is advised. I restocked on bread (5mil for 1kg or 2.5mil for half) some sweets (2-2.5mil) and had a meal (9mil). There is weak wifi at the tourist info stand (sometimes not working at all, sometimes passing through messages, e-mails and even non-interactive websites, the speed was not a function of the number of people trying to connect) and two campsites (1@4mil, no services apart from toilets and water and 1@8mil with shared electricity and showers).

Highlights of the Bariloche part were indeed mountain vistas, Torre principal of Cerro Catedral lurking everywhere the first two days, rock scrambling and lagoons. The disadvantages were the slow terrain, (a lot of edging on rock/kitty litter dirt/dust on slab/steep tree belaying dirt) and park rules. You have to register online (easy and free, there is a Google form on park's website) and register in person at every Refugio (it is free and if they do not see you, you can get away with not registering, we only actually did it once). Camping is free but it can be annoying because of the amount of people concentrating around refugios. Officially you are only allowed to camp near refugios and at certain designated places, but given the number of tent places along the route, this rule is often breached. We never bought food from the refugios, but that option is out there.

As for the Jesuitos route (Vuriloche) we were lucky because things were dry and therefore the trek was a lot better than expected. The forest walking/mud tunnels felt like Indiana Jones. The biodiversity of mosses and ferns felt like home (West coast of British Columbia) and the valley settler homesteads were picture perfect at times (and smelled like summer houses in central Europe). The trek to Tronador's "Refugio Viejo" was not to be missed and neither were the hot springs near Ford at [101,3/351], if you can get there around nightime. The passing through the border with the Carabineros was alarmingly easy. They did not check our food (we smuggled a tomato!) and they barely asked any questions, they just took our passports and came back with a stamp (no PDI paper). Don't forget to check in with the Argentinian border patrol before leaving, if it wasn't for Tomáš, I would have had to walk back from the carabinieros because I did not think it was necessary since I never got an entry stamp from Argentina in the first place – I was wrong. The Argentinians made us fill out a piece of paper to show to the Chilians and perhaps communicated with them that we were coming.

Things to note:
-The Terrain around Bariloche is very much alpine-like terrain. It is slow and can be dangerous so if you are not comfortable with steep terrain, rock, edging, gullies and possible snow then I suggest choosing the Huella Andina or the regular GPT21 Option 03 (it is comparable to GPT11-GPT12 around Cerro Dedos or the ridge at the end of GPT08) - all of these trails are regularly walked though.
-The mud: it is said that in the wet season or after a recent rain, the trail on the Jesuitos route gets so muddy that it may be impassable. From what we saw, most of the mud tunnels were very dry so I think it would take a hard rain to make it impassable.
-The mosquitos were a thing but we were only "swarmed " in our camp spot on the other side of Cayute (and we built our tent once for lunch against them). Horse flies seem to be dying off but they were crazy around the Carabinieros.
- Option 2C on the North side of Rio Blanco is not meant for pedestrians, there is a sign saying for pedestrians to stay on the Right (South). Maybe it is because of the ford over Rio Blanco (one out of the two bridges still exist, the first one on the west side) or maybe the settlers are not interested in hikers. There is a skinny suspension bridge over the river at the hotsprings (300 m SE from the ford waypoint) but you can easily ford as well. Some of the bridges on OSM are broken and nonexistent [was corrected in summer 2024].
- we got a hitch for only the last 4km of the Laguna Cayute road, then hitched slowly to Puerto Varas for food and a rest.

The details:

We started by getting out of Bariloche by a city bus number 41 (0.2 USD per person, goes every 30 minutes, Google maps or Moovit [more precise] have the schedules, you need to have a SUBE card [available at bus terminals] valid in all of Argentina, topping it online is seemingly impossible, in theory there are many small shops that can top it up [they are marked SUBE, the SUBE app has their locations] but we got lucky only at the third such shop) to Villa Lago Guiterezz and then hitchhiking to the southern end of Lago Guiterezz, where we started walking along a very crowded beach and then in-the-evening-decidedly-not-crowded lakeshore to a beach at the mouth of Arroy van Titter. We then walked towards Lago Frey by taking a partialy (it is probably cleared from time to time) overgrown but beautiful valley just south of the main route. It was slow and swampy (cca for 2 km/1 hour but had little people and offered impressive views of Cerro Catedral south and it's towers. Through this we bypassed the Refugio Frey and made our way to the first of many passes near Laguna Schmoll. The way up is simple scrambling anyone can do, but the way down was a mix of slow edging and sand sliding (it is probably a lot less travelled). We waited until the heat of the day ended to make our way up the second pass above Refugio Jacob. For this second pass it was easy walking on the way up, but the way down was once again slow edging on relatively steep terrain. We registered and camped at Refugio Jacob to have an early start on the next day. The Refugio and campsites were packed and felt cramped.

I had a bad encounter with a log that morning and my knee was banged up so the next day Tomáš and I split. He went on to the high route and I went down the Huella Andina and up again to a meeting spot near Lago Laguna Creton via Laguna Azul.

As for getting down the Huella Andina it was slower than expected but fine, and getting up to Azul was fast but more involved than expected. The last 200 vertical meters was low angle slab beside a waterfall, which was fun for going up but maybe not so fun for the way down. The rest of the way to Creton and camping was easy with fun slabby terrain.

Tomáš's report:

I went from Refugio Jacob to Refugio Italiano through Pico Refugio and then to Pampa Linda through laguna Illón. It took me two full days. The warden at Jacob told us that the route to Refugio Italiano was closed due to snow (a lot fell late in spring), so I met no one on the route, though I saw a set of footprints that were at most from the previous day. The route is mostly marked by cairns, sometimes it is invisible and sometimes you can see a painted sign (there is little consistency in terms of shape or colour of the marking) but is easy to follow with a map. The climb to Pico Refugio was easy scrambling. There were bolted rings that you can use to secure a rope but I did not think it was dangerous to climb unsecured. It was never vertical, the holds were good. It took me 10-15 minutes to get through this section of maybe 50 vertical meters. SAC 5 or slightly under. A much less vertical zigzagging route appeared then on that went to a pass still before Pico Refugio. From then on I sometimes did walk on snow but it was soft without any creeks eating it from underneath so I felt safe. It took me four hours to get to Cerro Navidad. The gully from there was mostly under snow for about 300 vertical meters. I went down on the snow until a creek started flowing under it from left. Then I stayed on the left side of the undersnow creek or on bare rocks. Lower in the valley the route was a bit eroded and there was even a short (20 metres - SAC 4 at most) fixed rope but it was not too difficult to get down. It was not easy walking though even in the valley, one crosses the stream several times and there are big stones even in the forrest (SAC 3). I took the first OSM route left to Refugio Italiano. It was quite (but not fully) vertical, but easy, I did use my hands and it was fun. It took me four hours from Cerro Navidad to Refugio Italiano, where there were lots (40?) of people at 4 PM.

I continued along the lake, where there was even a section with steps on the stone made out of metal rods (10 metres, SAC 3-4). This part is frequented and so was easy. It continued to be easy until Laguna CAB (though I lost the route several times going up in the forest). I reached the lake before dusk. I met two people on the near end of the lake. There were several people on the far end of the lake, where there are lots of mosquitoes, not recommended to camp. There is no trail around the lake - one fords the lake along its shore for about 1 km, it is not deep. I started going up to Cerro CAB. It is steep and was at first muddy but the route is clear enough in the bush and then marked by cairns on the rocky section (SAC 2-3). I reached the pass when it started to be fully dark. I continued the horizontal traverse (SAC 3-4) with a headlamp but 800 metres took me almost 40 minutes so I stopped before the route starts descending (thank God for the InRreach to InRreach messaging, I could let Natalie know I would not make it that night – the next day it took me four additional hours to get where she was camping). It was hard to follow the cairns as one just walks on bare rocks with no visible trail whatsoever, sometimes using hands to go up or down a a few metres. There is a nice horizontal miniplateau ideal for sleeping on a warm windless night (no mosquitoes!) with plentiful water from the melting snow.

In the morning, I woke up to a splendid view of Tronador. I went down, at first again using my hands here and there (SAC 4), but not much. Mosquitoes during daytime in the valley, which is actually a pass you reach from above. The climb to the pass at Cerro Cristal is clear trail at first but the last 150 vertical metres is a diagonal upward traverse walking on large slabs or wedges made out of pure granite. Their slope is good and I thought it was fun and it is quite scenic (SAC 3-4). Going down to Laguna Creton is steep and the route is sometimes a bit hard to find but it is not too hard (SAC 3). I saw one tent around Laguna Creton and met about six people going my direction to Laguna Illón, where there were dozens of people at 4 PM. Going down I met over a dozen prople either going my way or going up (and then I met Natalie of course).

Altogether, this traverse took me to routes that are not overun with people and are quite nice with lots of views (Cerro Cathedral is a scary darling that has that name for a reason), being mostly above the tree line. However, the route is demanding – you will be happy to cover 1,5 km per hour. It seems many people go up to a refugio, spend the night and go down again, so the aproach routes to refugios are more popular than the connecting traverses between them. These routes seemed to be in quite good shape thanks to that.

From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).

The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).

* '''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

TLDR: Very enjoyable section; No mentionable difficulties; Packraft Lago Todos Los Santos in the morning if you can, as wind will pick up in the afternoon; Great chats with the settlers along the way

From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).

We hiked the next day on RP to wp Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] and stayed the night. Rudi wasn’t there and the hot tubs were closed. It was an easy hike all the way. There we met Alejandro, Sergio’s son, who mentioned that Sergio doesn’t live in the valley anymore - it’s him and his mother now, so no more beers, but Alejandro speaks fluent English, which made it easier for us to connect :). If you want to get in touch with him, connect through his insta @valleelcallao.

The next day we continued on RR, took variant 21-A and camped at wp Port {21} [29.9/204] (El Callao) right by the beach. We met Rudi there and had a lovely chat with him.

* We started paddling early the next day, crossed Lago Todos los Santos in ard 4 hours and went to shore at wp Lake {21} [53.6/200]. We continued to wp River, Camp {21} [61.1/237] (Rio Conchas) where we went into the water again to paddle the short RP upstream river segment and across Lago Cayutue. It was not the best idea to paddle there in the afternoon, as headwinds on the lake were strong. However it’s a short stretch and going back would have cost more time, so we managed, and the landscape from the lake is really amazing. We stayed the night at wp Lake, Camp {21} [64.1/233]. Beautiful place!

We went to the parking lot at wp Settler {21} [63.4/448] the next morning and were offered a ride down the valley by some lovely people, so we hitchhiked to Cochamó.

* '''2023-12-12 to 2023-12-14 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR / Roman'''

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos all the way to the start of the RR. Beginning was a bit overgrown nothing bad but a bit annoying (7km) [in hindsight I wouldn't consider it BB but close before it, still doable and worth it]. Snow stating at 1350m good to hike as soon as you are out the forest. Down the other side: watch the GPS the entry in the forest can be easily missed and trust the GPS. There are some marks in the bark. The point is here: -40.956873, -72.183669. Trust the GPS and after ~100m you will find a "proper" trail (visible easy to follow). Stayed at the Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] [Rudi brought some people NoBo with the Boat). The trail from there to the lake is at the beginning for 5k a bit annoying due to a lot of vegitation (no BB). The frist bridge after Rudi is a bit sketchy, i crawled over it, because there is nothing to hold on, some planks ate missing and some are badly damaged [https://imgur.com/a/piW3AI3]. After that the bridges getting better. Pacrafted the next day to Camp ? {21} [52.2+1.0/196]. Startet Packrafting at 02:00 PM pitched tent at 08:00 PM. Conditions where good. Waited for a window of no wind to cross the lake to the other bank. A lot of exit possibilities there a lot more settlers than on the map. Overall it was a quite day; wind was mainly from west. Got on shore here: Lake {21} [53.6/200]. Trail after that easy and beautiful! Hitchhiked to Cochamó from here: -41.316407, -72.273071.

Overall: beginning a but annoying due to dense vegetation (no BB). After that the trail is ok and is good after the crossing. Would reccomend it even if the beginning is annoying and after Rudi also vegetation but the views are worth it!

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.

The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.

We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.

We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.

Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2022-NOV-25 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR and OR A / Yannic & Mirjam'''
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.
All the ways were in good condition, but sometimes a bit muddy. So maybe not that easy after heavy rainfalls

* '''2022-NOV-3 / 3 days / NOBO /hiking / RR / Frank'''
From Cochamo I walked 15KM on the road to Ralun crossroad (see transport section) Basic shop Minimercado El Cruce at Ralun Cross. Then 9KM on a good dirt road with a little traffic to 'Pass 510 metres'. You could probably hitch part of this if you want. After the pass the road deteriorates to a rough track. Cross a log bridge before Lago Cayutue. Beautiful campsite by the lake, one of the best on the GPT so far. On day 2 I walked to Lago todos los Santos & met Eduardo. He lives at the first house you come to NOBO just before the lake. He was busy & his boat was out of the water but agreed to take me for 80,000 CLP. Other houses & boats there are owned by weekenders who are rarely present. I believe Eduardo is your only option NOBO. However he said he is usually there & only goes to town occasionally. The crossing is spectacular with views of Osorno, Tronador & Puntiagudo.

I continued to the camp at the hot spring. The spring is in a locked shed & there is a basic refuge there, also locked. Rudy came by on his horse in the evening to open the shed. 10,000 CLP to camp & use the spring. If you want to be sure the spring or refuge are open then call in at Refugio dos Condores NOBO. Note the location marked for Refugio dos Condores on Openstreetmap which is used by Gaia & other apps is not correct. The location marked on the track files is the correct one. After Refugio dos Condores you cross a small bridge & on a ridge there are two signs saying Aguas Calientes 2KM. Don't follow the track file here but go down left at the signs on a trail, cross a small stream & go up to a meadow with some farm houses. Go out flat across the meadow with the houses on your right, continuing on a trail in the forest. After 1.5KM you rejoin the track file. This is much easier than the track file route (I used the 2019 track file)

Day 3: Pay attention after Pass 830M, there are a lot of switchbacks in the forest & the route is not obvious. Laguna los Quetros is also a very nice camp but I continued to Las Gaviotas. Got the ferry out at 8PM. This unscheduled ferry does not connect to a bus. I walked out 3KM to Entre Rios, cheap camping, cabanas & basic shop. The campsite has tap water & rabbits but no toilet or shower. The entire route has now been cut back, hardly any bush bashing. There are quite a few mud wallows on the track but you can go around them. Part of the route is on sunken trails & it's likely to flood out & be a mudbath after rain.

* '''2022-Oct-17 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Alice & Florian'''

We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day) and spent the day in the park around Petrohue. They are nice few hours walk on the volcano Osorno, near the the lake and in the forest, and the CONAF team is really nice there (kept our backpacks).
Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

After reaching Cayutue, the trail is easy to find, a little bit muddy but okay for us after a few days of sun.
We slept at the camp # indicated on the tracks.
We arrived the next day around 4PM on the intersection between the trail and the road to Cochamo. There was no bus, but hitchhiking was easy.
We slept at the hostel Arcoiris. It is quite cheap as we paid 15000 pesos per person for a double private room, the kitchen is available and well equipped. You can camp as well if you are not tired of it :)

One another piece of information. The CONAF guys in Petrohue told us that they are planning to maintain and put more signalization on La ruta de los jesuitas. This trail comes from Argentina and crosses the Lago de todos los santos until the Rio Blanco. There you can join the main route of the GPT with an optional route.
Considering this information, it will be an additional argument for Jan to change this optional route to the main one.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Dec-13 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We took the bus from Puerto Varas towards Cochamó, but got dropped at the road about 15 km before and started directly on the gravel road. The bus leaves quite a few times, but you have to ask around for the specific times. We took it at 13, and I think it left at least once more that day. The employees at the different outdoor stores know pretty well where the bus leaves from and who to ask. We camped at the spot marked "camping" near a small lake, it was quite nice, near a river as well. We got to Lago Todos Los Santos around 13 and asked at the first house marked on the GPS. It's situated on a hill behind three newly built vacation houses. Eduardo who lives there came out as soon as the dogs started barking, and was immediately ready to take us across the lake. The place where you want to get dropped of is called El Rincón. We were charged 70.000 pesos like other people have said as well.
On the second day we camped right after the first "bridge" waypoint.
Termas:
The third day we went to the termas. On the way there, you pass Rudy's house - it's about two hours before the termas. They have a cabin which is about 8000 CLP and sell breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as bread, honey, eggs and so on. They also have the option to camp at the termas which is 7000 CLP for camping and access. They have a wooden tub in a small shed, so you need to get the key from them - easiest going nobo as you pass their house. We later found out that there is a second option. A guy who lives in the house right next to the termas has made his own, it's more natural looking with rocks, and it's outside and more private. You have to knock on his house for him to show you. We actually thought it was nicer, but didn't hear the price. He is also a really nice guy who offers trips to Cerro cenizas with great views of Volcán Puntiagudo if he has time. It's a one day trip according to him. The last part of the trail to Las Gaviotas was fairly easy, although with a lot of confusing trails that ultimately seem to go the same way.
Las Gaviotas:
In Las Gaviotas there are a few different options for sleeping. There seem to be two or three different people with cabañas, there's a nice camping ground right on the beach with toilets, and we saw a tent further down on the beach which didn't seem to bother anyone. There is a very small shop in a shed on the beach with a few snacks and sodas, and it's possible to buy some bread, eggs and honey but definitely no resupply options. The beach was beautiful and good for swimming!
Access/exit:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. Puerto Buey is even smaller than Las Gaviotas. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but maybe there are more buses from there. As has been written before, it's possible to walk to Puerto Buey along a gravel road by the lake.

* '''2021-Nov-29 to 2021-Nov-30/ 1,5 days / hiking / NOBO / OR: Lago Todos Los Santos - Cerro Cenizo - Volcan Puntiagudo ridge - Lago Rupanco / Alex Abramov'''

This new variant is not the same as GPT21 option 4: it is easier and more logical. Easy/Moderate difficulty.
Rudy Jefi and his refugio are still in business (the price for boat from Petrohue 70.000), but Camping Las Nalcas and Mini Mercado Rupanco were closed.

* '''2021-Nov-17 to 2021-Nov-21 / 5 days / Packrafting and Hiking / Traverse of Lago Todos Los Santos, Option 2 Rio Blanco and Ruta de los Jesuitas (Vuriloche) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

We started this season at Petrohue on the western end of Lago Todos los Santos. Access by bus to Petrohue is easy (Bus from Puerto Varas every 20 to 30 min). Petrohue is a suitable starting point for packrafters that travel southbound with heavier fjord-suitable packrafting equipment.

Lago Todos los Santos: can get very rough with wind but we had two calm days with moderate wind in the late afternoon only. We paddled 40 km in two easy days. Only few of the originally dozens of settlers are still living on the shore and mostly the rich and super-rich of Chile have build vacation homes on the often steep coastline. But since the access to lakes and lake shores is legally guaranteed in Chile, this should not cause a significant problem.

Rio Blanco: 6 years ago we met a settler from Rio Blanco who confirmed that a horse trail traverses this valley and connects to the Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche). Now we came to investigate and record this route. The well maintained trail includes two river crossings that are well fordable in the morning after some reasonable dry days. Packrafters can cross these fords by packraft if the water level is elevated but hiker may struggle after heavy rain.

Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche): A well maintained but muddy horse trail connects to Lago Cayetue. Three river generally easy river crossings may become difficult to pass after heavy rain.

Conclusion: Connecting from El Callao to Rio Blanco requires a shorter and more wind protected lake traverse (compared to the current regular route to Cayetue) making it an attractive option for packrafters and southbound hikers if the weather is reasonable dry. I’m considering to change the Regular Route for this option and recommend the route via Cayetue in bad weather only.

El Callao to Cayetue: 22 km on direct route
El Callao to Rio Blanco: 14 km on direct route

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-04 to 2020-Jan-06 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

I accessed the southbound start of this section by walking 7km east from El Poncho on the dirt road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco (=Oh-Mr-V@20-0a-#001). From settlers Sergio and Sandro, I learned that Esteban is an alternative to Rudy for crossing Lago Todos los Santos. Esteban was able to take me immediately, whereas around the same time Linda (see below) unfortunately had to wait a couple of days. My experience of the rest of section was similar to others’.

* '''2020-Jan-03 to 2020-Jan-06 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

Starting on the beach of the North shore of Lago Rupanco (arriving from GPT20). Waypoint in Las Gaviotas Food and Lodging is great! Nelly prepared me a big glass of fresh raspberry juice.

Trail to Lago Todos Los Santos is easy and very nice. Only problem = the horse flies that loved me and I had at least 50 around me!

Stop at Las Termas! Beside the cold river, you will find a cabana with 2 bath tubes carved in wood full of hot thermal water. Amazing to camp and rest here.

Next house you will see on the trail is the one of Sergio. Very nice guy. He makes artisanal beer if you want to try one of them!

Then, as mentioned by Martin, in Refugio Dos cóndores, you can ask for the boat transfer of Lago Todos Los Santos to Rudy Jefi. 80000 CLP. I did and had to wait 2 days before crossing.

Other possibility for the boat transfer : when you arrive on the shore of Lago Todos Los Santos, ask the last house on the beach (waypoint = Settler) for Esteban. Same price 80000 CLP but you won't have necessarily to wait cause he seems to be more available than Rudy. Very nice man who offered me food and Lodging before I could cross the lake with Rudy! Say hello from me if you see him!!!

Between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Cayutué, trail not maintained for about 2 kilometers. Easiest way to overcome the obstacles is to go on the left in the open fields and then go back on the track. Not that difficult but expect to be slow.

Then, after Lago Cayutué, no problem. Easy Hitchiki'g to Cochaml where you will find everything to resupply. Very good accommodation = Patagonia Nativa!

* '''2019-DEC-23 to 2019-DEC-24 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Martín Lizondo'''

Trail perfectly walkable. Ask Rudy Yefi in Dos Condores for boat transfer to Pto. Cayuthue (CLP 80.000). After crossing Lago de Todos los Santos the minor road finishes in a 1 km unmantained trail. After 1 km the trail becomes opened and it gets better as you aproach to Laguna Cayuthue. River crossings are easy, less than knee level. From Ralun there’s a bus stop to Cochamó or Pto. Montt.

* '''2019-OCT-07 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

Refugio Las Termas is a great spot to camp out. Beside the cold river, the hot springs and the fire in the refugio are very nice after a hiking day.

* '''2019-NOV-01 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

The part between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todo Los Santos is a bit tricky. The last winter(s?) damaged the trail a lot. Rivercrossings are up to knee deep and there is a lot of trees and debris on the trail. In wide parts it is easyer to walk to the right or left of it. Also at one point it is likely that you have to jump/crawl some barbed wire to get around some fallen trees. In some parts it is bush bashing. Expect to be slow in this part.

The river crossing south of Lago Cayutué is easier a little bit further south than indicated by the track files. There is a tree as a bridge.

* '''2019-OCT-30 to 2019-NOV-04 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR from one km east of Ralun / Sophie & Hendrik'''

First day we camped at Lago Cayutué. Second day (to Lago Todos Los Santos) we had bad weather and were a lot slower than expected. (The trail is very damaged in this part, see recent alerts.) Due to health issues we stoped here and went to Puerto Varas for some days. We reentered the trail and only looked for a goat free campsite on our first day back (some 50min of walking). The next stops before we made it to the end of the section were Refugio Las Termas (we highly recommend to take a bath here) and Laguna Los Quetros.

What we liked: Very nice woods, beautiful lakes, very friendly and sympathetic people, crossing Todos Los Santos in an open boat in very heavy rain was harsh but beautiful, the termas, funny animals on the way.

What we did not like so much: In very long parts extremely muddy (probably depends on the season), the trail conditions between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todos Los Santos (which forced us to crawl beneath barbed wire).

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Shopping: Food
Cochamó: Possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but expensive. Some restaurants and many housing options.
Minimercado El Cruce at junction with the gravel road in Ralun, very basic. They have drinks, probably wine & possibly pasta.
There is a kiosk in Las Gaviotas by the beach with basic snacks & drinks but its opening hours are irregular.
On the road 1KM before Ralun NOBO there is a food truck but it only opens in the evenings after 5PM & may be closed in low season.
There are no other resupply options along the road Cochamo-Ralun although there are cabanas about every 4KM, some may provide food if you stay there.

*Services: Laundry
A local woman offers a laundry service from her home a few houses down a side street from the main road in Cochamó.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is nice camping at the small, scenic Laguna Los Quetros (Km6) near the northern start of the section. At the highly recommended Las Termas, around Km13, there is a small cabana with bath tubs carved of wood and full of hot thermal water. Settlers along the trail are interesting and welcoming.

*2022 / Yannic & Mirjam
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m.
(...)
We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted.

=Transport to and from Route=

*Southbound and northbound hiking is feasible and recommended. It may be easier to arrange a southbound than a northbound boat crossing of Lago Todos de Los Santos.

*2023 December / Lauren & Sebastian
Southbound from Entre Lagos to Las Gaviotas:

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to intersection south of Lago Rupanco, from there we continued to hitchhike for a bit, but eventually a bus came (around 3:30 pm, CLP 1500 per person, I’m not sure where started though…) that brought us to Puerto Poncho, from there we took the ferry to Las Gaviotas (4:30 pm, CLP200 per person)

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals.

*2022 / Alice & Florian
We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day).Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

*Access to Start

Northbound:
The bus leaves Puerto Montt main bus terminal (07:45, 12:00, 3:30PM & 5PM on weekdays, runs on weekends also but weekend schedule may differ) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada & Ralun to Cochamó. Get off at Ralun crossroads (intersection with a small gravel road near Minimercado EL Cruce) if you don`t want to walk 15KM on the road from Cochamo to Ralun.

Southbound:
Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday 7:00 & 16:30 Wednesday 2:30 PM, Friday 7:00 & 16:30, Sunday 15:00. Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus. Ferry Puerto Buey-Las Gaviotas Monday or Tuesday 8:00 & 17:30, Wednesday 15:30, Friday 8:00 & 17:30, Sunday 16:00. A bus coming from Osorno outside Terminal Rural goes to Puerto Buey to connect with the ferry on operational days, timetable not known. Ask at info. desk in Osorno Terminal Rural. No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
In addition to accessing through GPT20, it is possible to take private transportation on the road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco and walk the final 5-7km to the northern start point of GPT21.

*Return from Finish

Northbound:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but there are more busses from there.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT21 - Lago Todos Los Santos]]

=Images=

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</gallery>

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

Greater Patagonian Trail track files

2025-06-27T15:29:10Z

Nimrod:

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]
The track files of the [[Greater Patagonian Trail]] are provided on personal request by [[user:Jandudeck|the author]] free of charge but not unconditionally. Read in the Hiker's Manual chapter '''1.15 Terms and Conditions for Using the Hiker’s Manual and the Trail Files''' to review these conditions and to understand why these conditions were put in place.

GPT Hikers's Manual: http://bit.ly/GPTmanual

==Create an account in Wikiexplora (compulsory)==
[[File:create account wikiexplora.png|frame|Six (very standard) steps to create an account in Wikiexplora]]
To request the files you must first [http://wikiexplora.com/index.php?title=Especial:Entrar&type=signup create a Wikiexplora account]. It really takes less than a minute. The form is in spanish, but it's very standard and simple:
#User name
#Password
#Confirm password
#Email. Not compulsory but highly recommended to give us the chance to reach you. Wikiexplora has sent only '''one''' non personal email in 13 years.
#Real name (optional)
#On the final line type '''wikiexplora''', all in lower case

==List of requests==


Please type your name (or your new Wikiexplora user name or alias) and explain your plan for the GPT that requires the GPT Track Files. Put yourself on top of the list.

Don't forget to send the email after adding yourself to the list as described in the GPT Hikers' Manual (1.15.7 Access to the GPT Track Files).

*'''Nimrod Ashkenazy''' Hi, I'm planing to mostly solo hike (I have friends who will join for some sections) in November 25. I first heard about this trail while thru-hiking the TA in New Zealand. Thanks for the great work!!!

*'''Denis Rosa''' Hello everybody, I heard about GPT from Slovakian couple which hiked almost 3000km, after gathering more information and as I have been going through hikers manual this is something we would like to be part of at least a bit. Possible attempt would be with my best friend most likely in the season 2026 November until 2027 March. Only hiking. Not sure yet which parts exactly but we would have few months for that we would like to plan more from track file. And I have to add that really appreciate all the work which Jan did, thank you.

*'''Glacier Kane''' Hi Jan, first of all can't help but smile when I read your document, the hidden codes, the obligatory communal contributions, as a fellow Engineer I appreciate your creativity and effort here :] anyways I'm planning a 3-4 month hike through the GPT in the next 6-12 months and would love the track files! Not 100% sure what section I'll do yet but the files sure would help me plan it, thank you sir.

*'''El Perezoso 91 (Sebastian)''' Hi together, my girlfriend and I hiked part 36H last year, and we would like to to the complete section 32 to 40 from September to January 2026/27. Many thanks @Jan for the GPT compilation, it's an incredible work you've done!

*'''Trix&Tinu''' Hello everyone, we already hiked GPT 21 to GPT 1 in 2018/2019. Now we want to hike further stages in the south (without a packraft). We'll be in Chile from December to February. @Jan: Thanks for your work!

*'''JesseCaro''' Hi Jan, ever since our last visit in Patagonia in 2016 we’ve been dreaming of coming back. In previous years we’ve been hiking trails in Europe and the US. Searching for new experiences we came across your project. We would very much like to hike the GPT next summer (from December 2025) and use your Track files. Thank you very much!

*'''Oelk'''* Hi Jan, A few months ago while planning an open-ended ticket trip to the Americas came across the GPT Hikers' Manual and fell in love, I depart in a month to NA and I plan to arrive at Santiago early October and to hike the Northern Bulk (and continue south if budget and weather allows). Already practicing my Spanish and preparing for the journey physically and logistically. Your passion for this region and this route is contagious! Would love to get access to the Track files, thank you and hope to hear from you soon.

*'''Anso'''* Hi Jan, I am reading about the GPT since years waiting for the right timing for me to come. It finally cames. I took 4 months off between December 2025 and March 2026 to go solo-hiking between Coyhaique and Ushuaia. My goal is not necessarily to connect footsteps between those two locations but rather to take the time to explore the area and enjoy the suprises on the way. Thank you very much

*'''Teebi'''* Hi Jan, I've been traveling the last 9 weeks through south of Chile/Argentina and did a lot of the well known trails. While preparing for Villarica Traverse I found Wikiexplora and the GPT. Now I also really want to do the GPT06 and I think it will be one of my highlights just before time in Chile ends. Many thanks.

*'''Minutetravel'''* hello Jan, my name is jacques this year I discovered northern Chile and fell in love with this country. I would now like to explore Chilean Patagonia. I thank you for the incredible work you have done in mapping all the trails in this region. Thank you for accepting me on this list so I can access the files.

*'''Greg''' Hi Jan, I'm very keen to explore parts of Greater Patagonia, particularly GPT 6-12 from January 2026. I would be very grateful for the track files to be able to achieve this. Many thanks for creating this amazing trail network.

*”Joppe” Hi Jan. I’ve been interested in the GPT since years and have finally got a chance to go to Chile for a month or maybe more. Would love to contribute to this project. I’d love to be granted access to the files. Thank you for your amazing work on this.

*"AthenaJones" Hi Jan. Hoping to solo hike the trail from the beginning of october to the end of january. My goal is not to complete the trail but to explore it until the time runs out. I will need the track files to achieve this. Thankyou for all the information you have provided, its inspiring.

*"Asimo" Hi Jan. I'm currently solo traveling in Patagonia by bike with a packraft for 2 months and for the next 2 months. I learned about the GPT on the way and I'm interresting on several sections. Particularly for packrafting a portion of Río Baker, hiking around Torre de Avallano y glaciar O'Higgins, but also comparing options for hiking and discover more deeply Patagonia between Coyhaique and Puerto Natales.

*'''Schmittenk''' Hi Jan. I'm living in southern Chile and have walked short sections that overlap with the route network. I'd like to look into hiking longer sections within the next couple of years. I'd appreciate being able to access the track files.

*'''UnChamoisEgaré'''* Hi Jan. I already had the chance to walk a part of the GPT 3 years ago alone (Adrien Kunzli) and this time I would like to do it with my 2 brothers for two months. We are preparing a little late but we have all the equipment and are in Valparaiso and we would like to start as soon as possible. I hope this is possible, thank you very much! Let me know :)

*'''Diego Raffaeli'''* Hi Jan. I've been reviewing the GPT Hikers manual in order to planning a trail from Lago Puelo (Arg) to Cochamó (Chi). I would really appreciate if you can share the tracking files with me. Thanks in advance.

*'''Sprocky.''' Hi Jan. I've been studying the GPT hikers manual for some years now with an eye on exploring as much of the route as possible over the next two summer seasons. Keen to be a part of the GPT community and give feedback. I would really appreciate the track files to help me continue with route planning this year. Many thanks for compiling such a detailed resource. Cheers

*'''SteveBehaeghel.''' Hi Jan en Meylin, thx for the recent update on the GPT files. We are currently in Pucon with our 3 kids (3ys, 6ys and 9ys). The upcoming 3 months we will continue to revisit or explore certain GPT sections on small adventures of maximum 5 days. We will trek parts of, and including optional routes, from GPT14-GPT16-GPT19-GPT21-GPT22-GPT30-GPT33-GPT35-GPT37. I will probably do some small uptdates on the FB group, but the wikiexplora pages I will update after our longer trip in the second half of 2025. Thx for all helpfull information.

*'''Martin M.''' Hi Jan, I would like to explore some part of the GPT on foot, starting from GPT32. I only have a few weeks, so it will be just a small taste of what GPT is. Therefore having access to the track files would greatly help. Thanks a lot for all the effort you put into it.

*'''7yson''' Hello, Jan. Thanks for this incredible resource. What an amazing effort that you and your community here have made. Happy to be a part of it. I'll be in the Esquel area in late Feb and am studying the main route for sections to hike in March, northbound likely. Thanks for considering me for access to the track files.

*'''Daniela Montecinos''' Hi Jan! I found GPT while searching for information on packraft routes in Patagonia. Your work is wonderful! I am interested in doing some of GPT's packraft routes and being able to contribute updated information on them. Thank you so much for your work and for sharing it!

*'''Mochilaosabatico''' Hi Jan. Tks for all information about GPT. My husband and I have just finished GPT 6 (Descabezado Grande) and we want to hike sectors 7 and 8. I would appreciate receiving the tracklogs for GPTs 7 and 8. Tks a lot!

*'''Moonshine''' Hi Jan. I have been loving the in depth guide for the GPT. It has been an incredible resource for this upcoming trip. Thank you so much for all you have done. My friend and I are planning on spending a month in March hiking along this trail. We have yet to decide exactly where along GPT06-GPT22. We are hoping we love it so much that next year we will come back with some packrafting knowledge and do more for a longer period of time. We love being in the backcountry, and connecting with local communities. This truly appeals to us in every regard. Excited for this adventure!

*'''Tom Venegas''' Thank you all for the fantastic work in gathering information and building this community! I’ve hiked in the Radal, Lircay, Antuco, Cochamó, and recently I’ve been exploring more of Aysén—specifically Cerro Castillo and Patagonia National Park. I’m really excited to check out Torres del Avellano and the Pioneros Road in Aysén next. Looking forward to connecting with other hikers and sharing experiences to be part of this project!

*'''Benoît''' Hi Jan, thank you for the incredible work you've done with the hiker's manual, it's an invaluable resource ! I started the GPT from Santiago in 2018 (sections 01 to 08), and I would like to continue from the Antuco Volcano and go south. Thanks again for all your work!

*'''einat shvartz''' Hello. I'm einat, i'm 26, i'm arriving solo to patagonia this January (2025), for about 2-3 months. I wish to hike the GPT, or maybe just some sections of it. I am absolutly love being in untouched nature and also meeting authentic people from all around the world. Hiking some of the GPT sounds incredible. I'm experienced with medium-long hikes (several days to 1-2 weeks top), but 0 experience with packrafting. There for I wish, at this point, to do only sections that are duable by foot (probably the more northen parts of GPT). And probably not a lot of difficult parts, at least in the begining, to see how i adapt to this new land, and to the whole thru-hiking experience. I hope that the track files will help me build and plan my own customize trail, and that i will be blessed to expirience some of it.

*'''jhfelner''' Hello. I plan on hiking and maybe packrafting numerous sections of the GPT over the next few years starting with parts of GPT around Section 6 this year. Experienced with remote mountain terrain. Would appreciate the track files for further planning.

*'''Tomek Z''' Hi, I´m from Poland. Right now on the one-year hitchhiking trip through South America. But part of my plan was always hiking some part of Andes. This idea of GPT really looks nice. I am a student mountain guide in Poland,and so far my bigest hike was from Zakopane to Budapest aprox. 350km, 16 days. Now I would love to try someting more challenging. I want to do a part from Trapa Trapa to Santaiago. I speak spanish quite well and curently I am working in a hostel in El Chalten. :) I plan to start a hike in the middle of February.

*'''Matthias Keil''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.

*'''Jordan Porter''' Hello. I plan to solo hike and packraft the Gpt starting December 2025 and hiking until April 2026. I spent three months backpacking and exploring Chile and Argentina last Jan-March so I have a decent idea of what to expect weather/transportation/etc. Your hikers guide has been a great resource so far! Looking forward to being in touch.

*'''Ben McLuckie''' Hi Jan, along with my spouse, we want to spend 3 months hiking from PN Hornopirén north to Santiago starting in March. I am currently reading your 2024 Hikers Manual. For 3 months in 2019 we traveled from Dientes de Navarino to El Chaltén and for another 3 months in 2024 traveled from El Chaltén to Valdivia by mountain biking, trekking and connecting ferries. We are most definately "immersion hikers" and not mileage-focused thru-hikers (no judging here).

*'''Fernanda Rodriguez''' Hi Jan, I am visiting Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia for one month. I am interested in doing the GPT 37 to GPT 40. I've been all of 2024 reading your Hikers Manual. I feel so grateful for such a beautiful contribution you have made to this, my country :)

*'''Chloe Derrien''' Hi Jan, with my partner, we would like to go from Ushuaïa up to Peru using some GPT sections. We would like to start end of february. Thank you for the GPT hiking manual, it is a huge help and source of informations.

*'''DavidVidal"" Hola, de a poco he ido haciendo trayectos de varios días por la cordillera, algunos de estos se unen también a ciertas secciones del GPT. Me interesa tener estos tracks para planificar mejor mis salidas. Agradecido de tu trabajo y prolijidad en esta ruta. Leí hace un tiempo el manual, acepto las condiciones claramente.

*'''Jason''' Hi Jan. I'm currently looking into hiking some sections of the GPT in 2025/2026 and would greatly appreciate the track files to aid in planning. I've read the introduction and agree to the terms and conditions. Thank you for all that you do.

*'''Ben Ram''' Hi Jan, I am researching hiking sections of the GPT in the Chilean Lake District with my partner in late 2025 to early 2026. It would be really great to have access to your GPS Files for this. I have read the Terms and Conditions and agree to them. Cheers.

*'''Ana''' Hi Jan, I’m looking into hiking sections of the GPT in late 2025 to early 2026. As part of my planning, I’d love to have a look at the GPS files to decide on sections. Thanks so much for all of the work you’ve put into this, the hikers manual is particularly useful.

*'''EmilieV''' Hi Jan, I am planning to cross Chile from Antofagasta to Ushuaia by foot and bus and I would like to incorporate some of the GPT sections in my adventure. The sections in question are 6 to 12 SOBO and then skipping over some of the middle sections to hop back on it probably after section 32 to finish at 40. I am still figuring out if I want to add a section or two from the southern part of the GPT and would like to access to GPS files to finish my preparation. The hikers manuel and the unbounded documentary were so helpful not only regarding the "trail" but also understanding the different dynamics of the local population, so interesting!

*'''pointatadventure''' Hi Jan, a huge thank you to this wonderful community! I came across GPT after an extensive internet search. As an avid adventurer, I am planning a trip to Patagonia next year to hike and packraft. I have read and of course accepted the terms and conditions. It would be fantastic if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Steve Hawkins''' Hello Jan and thank you for considering me for the GPT track files. I have read all terms and conditions, and I agree to comply. I also agree to contribute to the community. I am a "soon-to-be" retiree and have backpacked extensively in the United States. I would like to hike sections of the GPT over several years in 60–90-day increments beginning in Winter 2025-2026. I am beginning the research process for the first section hike in Patagonia and would love the assistance of the track files. Thank you for your consideration.

*'''Matias Federici.'''Hi Jan, I am going to do S14-15-16-17 next week, dont have much time for preparations because I was just noticed in my work that i have the vacations abiable, Been years reading About de GPT, this is the first time I have the money and time to try to do some, Im realy looking foward to this, thank you for the incredible job you started, best regards from argentina!

Use the format:
*'''Michael G.''' Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections 1 to 22 NoBo of the GPT from early March 2025, beginning in El Chaltén. I would like to thank you for the selfless work you did on making the GPT what it is. I'd be grateful if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Al and Bee''' Hi Jan, we are planning on hiking parts of the GPT starting in early January 2025, probably beginning in El Chaltén and hiking north. Thank you for the incredible Hikers Manual on the GPT. The GPS files would be extremely helpful for our endeavor.

*'''Juergen''' Hi Jan, My name is Jürgen Wolf. First of all, I want to thank you for the Greater Patagonia Trail project. I'm planning to some chapters in February, probably from stage 21 in northern direction. I'm currently in the process of studying the manual and creating a plan for myself, for which the GPS files would be helpful

*'''Pierre-Marie''' Hi Jan, I have been hiking since 27/11 from Santiago to El Chalten. Thank you for your work and efforts to keep this trail alive.

*'''Dustin''' Hi Jan, I am heading down to Patagonia this summer and planning to explore some of the packrafting sections. I'm planning to start exploring out of Coyhaique in early January. It is really wonderful that you are putting together a resource like this for an area you love. Your passion really comes through in the guide. Thank you so much for all that you do.

*'''Miguel''' Hi Jan, my name is Miguel Rodríguez Letelier, i live in Chile, love hiking and the mountains. I am planning to hike the GPT in the summer. Thank you for all the work and passion you put in this.

*'''Henri''' Hi Jan, let me first say how thrilled I am that the GPT guide exists and that there are all these incredible resources available for free all in the name of hiking! I am looking at the possibility of hiking a section of the GPT this coming February. I have my selection narrowed down to a few different sections but I am still a little indecisive. I will only have about a month to hike the sections of the GPT until I need to go home. I am hoping to get ahold of the Track Files so that I could better understand the scope of what I might be embarking. I've made myself a spread sheet showing every section of the trail from GPT 001 through GPT 040 where I include data and details to more easily narrow down my decision, and with this I feel that I am ready to get into the fine details of planning a relatively short hike on the GPT (3 weeks or a month).

*'''Graham''' Hello Jan, My name is Graham Hall. I am very interested in hiking the GPT between December and February of 2025. I am beginning my planning process, and I would love your insight. I will say, this is somewhat new to me, not in the outdoor sense, but in perspective. I have worked as a backcountry guide leading canoe trips for several years, but thru-hiking is newer for me at least in the packing sense -although I have been doing some smaller trips. I am fluent in spanish and confident in my abilities in the backcountry, specifically in outfitting and planning so I am excited about getting my hands on the most up to date maps and trip notes to plan my route. I also am looking to plan some pit stops to try and attract my other guide friends to join me for sections, but I just need to get to planning. I also would just love to get some more advice. I will say, pack rafting sounds insanely cool (from my canoe experience) but I also know the dangers that come with solo water travel, especially in such windy conditions. I would love to discuss this further, if you have the time. Either way, I hope this gets to you, wikiexplora do me right!
I hope we speak soon,
Graham

*'''Nono''' Hi Jan! I am planning to hike the GPT from Puerto Montt to Santiago. I'll be starting in February. I'm currently planning the hike and the guide is really fantastic. Congrats and thank you for putting together such useful information. I hope I can help contribute too. Best, Arno.

*'''Timotheed''' Hi Jan, I am planning to hike on the GPT from El Chalten to Santiago with a friend. We'll start in February, and we ll make it to Santiago with some junctions by bus. I am currently trying to plan our trip and therefore I would like to use the GPT track files. Thank you so much for the amazing informations you provided.

*'''dmateria''' Hi Jan, I am planning to packraft the packraftable (GPT16+) out of the GPT from end of December onwards, thus I'd gladly make use of the existing tracks. Thanks for the amazing community you have helped building.

*'''Mishun''' Hi Jan, me and my wife Anna plan to hike on GPT as a part our trip to Chile in December. We aim to hike sections GPT 06 and GPT 07 but we keep our plans open to change depending on the current conditions. Thank you for all your effort.

*"'MiaimZelt"' Hi Jan, thank you a lot for sharing so much informations in the GPT Manual. My husband and i are currently in Chile and will be until April. We planned to do a lot of multi-day hikes off the beaten path, which are part of the GPT, without knowing about the GPT. Less than 2 weeks ago an other hiker advised me about the GPT. This way i found out we'll be section hikers on the GPT. Now i'm reading every day in the Manual and try to improve my planning as best as i can without the files. Since then i considered if i should add myself to the list, although i'm definately late. Decided to give it a try. The gpx-files would be a great help to find out about alternative routes of our planned treks and to understand all the log-entrys, which are related to the files.

*'''Elijah Fuller''' My friend Michael and I are experienced thruhikers who are looking to do something very different from our previous experiences; the GPT. We'll have approximately 2 months to complete the GPT in January and February 2025. We're currently route planning, with sections GPT05-22 or GPT32-47 being the two sections we're considering. It's time to jump on Google Earth!

*“Raphael Chevalier” Greetings and thank you for all the research and detailed information found in the Guide Manual. I have read chapter 1 and am further into getting info on that very intriguing trail. I have a GSP and would like to use the GPT gps coordinate to further research the sections I am planning to do starting January 2025. Once again thank you for the community and available information.

* '''Roman''' I already did parts of the GPT in the 23/24 Season and fell in love with it!:) So I want to continue where it stopped GPT82P / GPT 33. Looking forward fore some new explorations and the new stories to tell of the people I meet! :)

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike once again on GPT. Last time we were here in 2023 and now we are planning to come back ready to experience GPT with all its beauty and challanges.

*'''Peggy''' Hi Jan, a lot of gratitude for you work and for charing it. It's a wonderful gift! I plan to start the gpt late december 2024 and walk until march or april wherever I get. Then I probably do the south part next year. For the momeent, I study the manual, analyse the route and my gear so I would be happy to have the gps files to go further in this preparation. Talk with you soon I hope and I am happy too to be a part of this community.

*'''Mttmllr''' Hi Jan, I live in Biobio region Chile, and in the past few years have done some hikes in the Andes that have been on GPT routes. I'm interested in the track files to enable me to continue exploring (slowly, year by year, I don't plan on leaving Chile any time soon) the different segments of the GPT. Many thanks for all your work and dedication to this project.

*'''BeingGarrett''' Jan ... I am looking to start the GPT this year (2024) in Santiago, I have an unlimited timeline and acknowledge that the GPT can not be done in a single season, therefore I would like to directly view the GPS files to map a roughly 1000 mile section. Go far, not fast. Thank you.

*'''Kare-Bare Blvd''' Hi Jan, my GF and I are super stoked to have found such a wealth of knowledge available for our planned adventure to Patagonia. We have 2 months and are very much interested in the Packrafting portions between 17-39, plus all the side quests and hikes along the way. We don't plan to complete all these sections in 2 months but we really think that the track files will help in our planning and prioritizing of sections so that we can get the most out of our adventure and to do it safely. GPT 2026! B-K

*'''ClickClack''' Hi Jan, myself and a friend are planning on doing sections 1 through 40 from mid-November 2024 to March 2025. We hope to complete the whole thing and the track files would really help! Thank you for the incredible amount of effort you have put into this!

*'''Simonlusignan''' Hi Jan, I am planning my 1500km hike through some GPT sections. I am starting from El Chalten in January 2025 and will be doing sections 32 to 40 and 6 to 12. I would love access to the files to help me navigate through river crossings and certain tougher sections. Thank you very much for the incredible ressource!

*'''Tamar''''' hi! we were very excited to hear about this trail! and it's uniqueness!! we hope to hike through some sections along the trail starting from the north in December 2024 until the weather becomes cold. Would love to share photos taken along the way. thank you!!

*''''Thijmen''''' Hola Jan, I'm planning to Packraft part of the GPT for three months in January till March 2025. I would like to receive the track files in order to prepare. Thank you for all the effort in making this adventure possible.

*'''''borruu''''' Hello Jan, thank you for sharing all the information about GPT. I am planning to hike a southern part of the GPT in February 2025, an access to the track files will be greatly appreciated.

*'''''wiiiim''''' Hola Juan, I'm very interested in exploring Patagonia further by hiking & packrafting sections of the GPT from December 2024. I'm still going through a lot of the information, but would love to get request access to the track files to plan more accurately. All the best, Wim

*'''''Kevin4''''' Hello Juan, I am considering the GPT between Section 6 and 20 starting in December 2024. Thank you for your work and manual on the GPT. I would like to have access to the trace file to plan my route. I thank you, Kevin.

*'''''Clara''''' Hey Jan ! I'm planning to hike some sections of the GPT between Decembre 2024 to March 2025. After reeding the amazing GPT hiker's manual, I would like to get access to the track files to continue planning the hike. Thank's for sharing all your work.

*'''''Amazering''''' Hi Jan, first of all thanks for putting together all this info and documentation about the GPT, the pdf in particular has been an amazing read so far! We as a couple have been hiking for a few years and we identify ourselves very much in the slow pace, sharing centered and collaborative philosophy of the GPT, and plan on hiking on parts of the trail from end October 2024 through February 2025. Excited to be able to contribute back too!

*'''''GLOBTUINA''''' Hey Jan, i'm planning to hike parts of the GPT into october 2024 and January 2025, i would like to get access to the track files to properly plan my trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''Volker''''' Hey Jan, I am planning to hike parts of the GPT starting in December 2024 and would like to get access to the track files you created. You completed a tremendous work to write the excellent manual and create the track files. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT - and for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

*'''''Farah & Jan''''' Hey Jan, we're planning to hike parts of the GPT in January and February 2025 and would love to get access to the track files to properly plan our trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''leo_micklem''''' Hello, I'm Leo. I'm planning to Packraft some sections of the GPT with my brother as part of a wider South America trip. The Packraft portion of the trip will likely take place December 2024 into January 2025. We feel strongly that it is important to be properly prepared for a safe and enjoyable adventure.

*'''''Allie''''' Hello, I'm Allie (or Aliénor). I'm planning to visit Patagonia from november 2024 to march 2025, and i would like to discover the region mostly on foot. Thank you for your extensive research and comprehensive guide.

*'''''sigg''''' Hi Jan, I'm Chris and I was thinking about spending some time on the GPT as a solo traveller beginning mid January to beginning of March 25. Yet, as I want to plan thoroughly, I'd love to take a look into the gpx files in order to better understand the terrain to choose to legs I feel confident in mastering.

*'''''HugoT''''' Hi Jan, I'm Hugo and I'm planning to spend 3 weeks on the GPT. Reading the manual was great, a real change on how I normally prepare for more well-known trails in Scandinavia, Scotland, Iceland or Nepal. In my search for true nature, I would like to start on section GTP06 and go south until 1) the trail beats me or 2) go as far as my feet will take me in the time that I have.

*'''''veleslavia''''' Hello, I'm Olga and I'm planning to hike and packraft some sections of the Trail in late December 2024 with my partner. Thank you so much for creating the manual and the community around it!

*'''''Ayrton.debeauffort''''' Hello, first of all thank you so much for all the hard work to put all these incredible resources together. I am looking to travel solo this spring to Patagonia and want to do first 20-30 section of the GPT over 2 months (with flexibility on the number of sections and timing). I have done multi day hikes in the W trek, and Norway and the Dolomites in the past and am looking to do a longer distance trek given I will be taking some time away from work. I look forward to contributing to your amazing research and thank you again!

*'''''Celio''''' Hola, first thing, thank you very much for the passionate job you made in creating this Hiker's manual, it's a gold mine of infos! We are a french couple living in the alps and planning to do the GPT, starting november and going up north. Having worked 4 years in Tierra del fuego in guiding i'll be very happy to help in contribute and support the job you made ! Thank a lot.

*'''''TiMa''''' Hi, we are a german couple planning to hike various treks in Patagonia roughly during Jan+Feb 2025. We didn't decide yet on specific sections of the GPT. Thank you and the contributors for all the work!
*""Morliz"" Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections of the GPT from 11/24-5/25, am experienced in long distance (US), alpine (alps, andes, pamir) and would be happy to support the wiki explorer homepage for the GPT during and after the hike. Thank you for the support.
*'''''LukSara''''' Hello Jan, we are Lukas and Sarah, two hikers from the Alps and woud like to hike the first part of the GPT. We are planning to travel to Chile in November 2024. It would be great to hike with your GPS Track Files and of course we would be happy to contribute to your work with your experience. Thank you and everybody who made this possible.

*'''''ErJo''''' Hello Jan, we are passionate hikers that would like to hike parts of the Greater Patagonian Trail in January and February of 2025. We don`t plan on doing packrafting. We are very grateful for your absolutely awesome work and thank you for making such a trip possible! :)

*'''''Mathilde and Jordan''''' Hello Jan, first of all thank you very much for your huge and impressive work. We are two frenchies who would like to participate to this adventure and start in november. We'll be happy to share our experience, help with the tracks and give some updates. Passionate about nature, hike and new culture, The GPT is an adventure that we have in mind for a long time. Thank you very much :)

*'''''Elio''''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for the work you're doing mapping out the most remote parts of Patagonia. I'm a seasoned hiker from France and I'm starting planning my next project (hopefully for December 2024, depending on finance and wife approval :). I would be very interested in the data you've collected over the years to help me come up with a route. I would gladly contribute to this wiki as soon as I find relevant data to provide. Thanks!

*'''''Stefan''''' Hi Jan, we, my wife and I, are experienced hikers from Germany and are looking for a new long-distance hiking trail that is scenically impressive, remote and not overcrowded. We don't have a concrete schedule yet (probably in a few years, for a few months). In our search we finally came up with GPT and your manual. Both are really impressive! Thank you for your work so far! We would be happy to help supplement the manual and keep it up to date. However, we are still at the very beginning of the planning and would therefore like to use the tracks for further information and preparation.

*'''''Keili100''''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.
Thanks for your unbelievable huge amount of work you are putting on the GPT

*'''''Karin'''''Hi Jan, I am Karin. I have had the dream of visiting and hiking Patagonia since many years. I am in Latin America for roughly a year for work and I would like to take advantage of being in Latin America to hike in November - December 2024 parts of the GPT. Thank you vera much for your incredible work!

*'''''Charlie''''' Hi Jan! I'm Charlie. I'm planning to hike either two (7-8) of the northern sections or 32 and 33h in the first two weeks of april. I'm an experienced hiker, have led trips and organized my own in the us and recently completed a 3 week thruhike of sicily. beyond excited to get to patagonia - has been a dream for years.

*'''''Marion y Augustin''''' Hello Jan, we are a french couple wich aim to try to hike some sections of the GPT beteen April 2024 and July 2024, mixed with bus travel to join Perù. We are reading the Hikers'Manual, thanks a lot for that huge job !
*'''''Sophie y Gaspar (Dr Jabali)''''' Hello Jan, we are a franco-spanish couple wich aim to try to complete the GPT beteen November 2024 and May 2025 and discover these beautiful landscapes and cultures. Thanks
*'''''Paulus''''' Hey Jan, im very impressed by your detailed planning and knowledge of the patagonian mountains. I really enjoyed reading your short manual for the trail even though I should have actually studied for my exams. In Autumn I will finish university and now have finally the time to do a longer hiking trip again. Since im a biology student, the GPT is extremely interesting, since it would serve me as a transect to observe to Vegetation change from the north to the south. Ive always dreamed of seeing Araucarias!
*'''''gitano''''' Hi Jan I enjoy hiking and I have a lot of expirience hiking patagonia for the last 6 years. I grow up in Osorno and i would like to hike my own land. I will love to cooperate and keep up this exelent job!
*'''''Maxfelis''''' Hi Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Santiago. I recently did "Sendero del Condor", and I met someone that was doing the GPT06. I would love to collaborate with the GPT project, and explore other sections. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''txrx''''' Hello Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Bariloche. I am always researching new routes and many times I end up scanning the GPT Hikers Manual. I can't believe how much work and love has been put by all the contributors to build this, thank you very much! I would love to help to keep the GPT growing responsibly.

*'''''Bebo'''' Hello Jan, I First heard of GPT while traveling through Peru, Bolivia and Argentina by bike. Rightnow I meet with my Brother in Buenos Aires and we want to hike remote trails for the coming 2 months. The GPT sounds just perfect, so we really would love to get the GPX files. We are aware of the fact that the trails lead through privat Land and nature. We treat both with hugh respect! Thanks for your work! Greetings from germany!

*'''''Marilynemg''''' Hi Jan! I have been discussing the GPT with hiker friends for the last ten years and I finally will be able to visit Chile in March and April. I want to start with sections 1-8 and I have a couple more on the radar, time and weather dependent. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''Retezepe''''' Hey Jan, we are very grateful for the invaluable resources you have compiled for the GPT. We're looking forward to being a part of this project! My partner and I are currently in Chile and interested in hiking a couple of sections of the GPT. The sections that currently interest us the most are sections 19 and 37H. We will be in Greater Patagonia from February to March.

*'''''TrailsOfWander''''' Hi Jan. Thank you very much for your envaluable work for the GPT and for your guidance. I am traveling to Chile on Feb 11 to hike GPT06 and partial GPT08 and 09. Unfortunately I don’t have much time for this trip but I will plan future trips for other sections so the Track Files of GPT will be very valuable as the Manual is. Thanks again!

*'''''AlexNecky''''' Hello Jan, thank you for all the work you've done putting this trail together!! My friend and I have been eyeing the GPT for a while. After much researching using your information and additional sources, we have tickets to Santiago for the beginning of March. Our plan is to start with GPT06 and going SOBO thru GPT10 or as far as we can for the month that we have. We're both super excited about this adventure and look forward to contributing back to the community with our experience!! Thanks again!

*'''''Dueser''''' Hi Jan. I am deeply impressed by your work. Not only the time you spent on the GPT, but also all the documentation and the manual. During reading the manual I realized that 10 years ago I explored a few GPT stages in the north without knowing about the GPT. This time I'm deliberately heading south. I'll certainly put my experience to good use for the project.

*'''''CharlieGardner101''''' Hey there Jan! Charlie here! Wow, what an incredible community you've created here. I couldn't be more excited to explore this wonderful and wild part of the world and to become a contributing member of this initiative you've begun! I will be flying into El Chalten in the first week of February and, along with a few friends, hope to hike a variation of GPT sections 38-40. Later on (mid-late march), we hope to move further North to try our hands at a section somewhere between GPT 6 and 12. Thanks for everything you do! Cheers!

*'''''Zsu''''' Hi Jan! I would like to hike parts of GPT32-40 in the upcoming weeks. More details in the email. Thank you very much!

*'''''Fernanda''''' Hi Jan! First and foremost, a sincere thank you for your impressive work. It is so valuable to have this type of initiatives in Patagonia. I am Chilean and mountains have been my backyard since I was a kid. I am planning to do GPT35 and GPT 36H with my brother Francisco. He is also close to nature and a entrepreneur based partially on Puerto Bertand since 2020. I've shared the hikers manual with him and he was very thankful and impressed with this initiative. I would also be interested in contributing with adding highlights and changes to the track. Global warming is slowly but steadily modifying nature.

*'''''Daemos''''' Hi Jan! My name is Andrew, and I am a Canadian travelling in Patagonia for the next two months. I was planning to hike the Condor Circuit, but I've read online of some difficulties lately and am interested in investigating one of the variations of GPT6 as an alternative. I would also be interested in adding some highlights of the GPT to my plans as well.

*'''''PauMau2024''''' Hello Jan! My name is Paulina and I thank you so much for your work. It´s an impressive work that you have done! From february on my partner Flo and I want to explore and hike from Futaleufu to O'Higgins, GPT 71 and GPT35-39. Beginning in Futaleufu we will take around 5 days to get to Chaiten where we will have a resupply and then continue hiking down until the end of the carretera Austral. We are happy to share our GPS log and further information&experience, hopefully support future travelers.

*'''''madnomad''''' Hi! My name is Elias. We are a couple from Greece travelling around the American continent on a campervan, motorcycle, packraft and hiking equipment! We are already on the road for 5 months and we are currently in the Argentinian part of Patagonia. We love it here and it would be great to try a few sections of the GPT. We are not planning to do anything extreme, just enjoy a few highlights of the GPT at first!

*'''''acivs''''' Hi! My name is Agnes. I'm from Switzerland and love trekking. I did several hikes in the Alps, the Andes and in Patagonia. In August 2022 I started backpacking through South America and got trapped in Tortel about a year ago. Last March I read for the first time about the GPT and was fascinated by it. For the moment I am planning on doing my first to sections, GPT36H and GPT35.

*'''''wandering_guanaco''''' Hey all! My name is Jack and I am an American outdoors-person interested in hiking sections 16-23 this austral summer, and hope to continue to complete sections of the GPT as I continue to work in Chile for a few months of the year every year. This project is amazing and I am stunned by the thoroughness of the documents I have read so far. From the intentions of the project as a hike undertaken only by those who are prepared, to the particular comments on the links between fundraising and the inevitable outcome of the trip itself, I really appreciate the time and thought that has been put in to not just the adventure portion, but also the preparation, reputation, and impact of the hike. I feel lucky to have explored chunks of Patagonia in my past and cannot wait to broaden my experiences through these sections and information in the future.

*'''''bistarai.bistarai''''' Hello! My name is Susie, I’m French-Canadian and planning on hiking sections 6 to 18 (although very flexible) as a first attempt on the GPT which I have been eyeing for a while now. Eventually I’d love to try packrafting in more southern sections in a couple of years!

*'''''mollycargill''''' Hello, my name is Molly and I am a medical doctor from Australia with a lifelong love of the outdoors and an interest in wilderness medicine. As a part of an Expedition Medicine course I am currently undertaking I need to create an in depth logistics plan for a trip which I want to go on, which I have chosen as packrafting sections 16-25 of the GPT. I have had my eye on the GPT for a while, and hopefully can use the finished product of this assignment to help me finally attempt some of the GPT in the 2024/25 season.

*'''''HHGTPE''''' (Hitchhikers guide to planet earth) Hey, I am Felix. I hitchhiked around the globe for three years some time ago and now I am doing a semester abroad in Buenos Aires for my uni. While looking for long distance tracks in Patagonia, I came across the GPT and very much fell in love with the whole concept. This year I would like to do some of the shorter and easiest hiking parts of the GPT but hopefully come back in the future to do some longer and connected parts.

*'''''fabianundcecile''''' Hola de San Rafael, Argentina. We are travelling to southern Patagonia and thought we could hike some sections of the PGT along the way. Maybe starting with GPT 7 southbound. Saludos Cécile y Fabian

*'''''czimahi'''''Hola Jan, por favor me podrías enviar el file para ir alguna parte entre GPT18 a GPT5? Muchas gracias

*'''''nico142857''''' Hola desde Chile!. Escribo en español por razones políticas más que practicas. Primero que todo, gracias por recolectar, sintetizar y compartir la información. Me interesa recorrer la parte norte de los 'senderos' y me interesan tener los .kmz para 1) tener una ayuda, 2) no abrir mas senderos y respetar la naturaleza y 3) dar feedback a la comunidad. Saludos

*'''''Ggeoff88''''' Hello everybody ! My name is Guillaume from France and I'm actually in Bariloche preparing my adventure to go to El Chalten by foot. You guys did an incredible Job of research, documentation and exploration... Today I'd like to inspire of your work in order to prepare my road. It's normal for me and will be a pleasure to share my experience after it.

*'''''MysticalMarauder''''' Hi my name is Misha and I'm in Chile with an old friend about to the depart on a greand adventure December 2023 onwards. Heading south in the coming days with the zenith of our travels the Punta Arenas/Puerto Natales area. Then turning around and heading back north after a month or 2. Eager to get on the GPT in either direction in the coming months/years? Not sure how long this adventure will last but hopeful to hike many kilometers on this network. Thank yiou to Jan and this commmunity for establishing this route and creating this excellent resource for those excited to get off the well-traveled roads and disappear into the wild for a bit.

*'''''Lazy_Lemon''''' Kia ora! Looking to get amongst the Patagonia trails so thanks so much for putting all this information together!

*'''''Sam Odin'''''' Hello! Thank you so much for this impressive work. The detail and love put into the GPT manual is truly a gift to us all. Between January 15 and February 5, my partner Sara and I are planning to explore as much of GPT33 as possible. Beginning in Villa Cerro Castillo we will take 8 to 10 days to get to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (where we will have a resupply) and then take about the same time to get back to Villa Cerro Castillo. We would love to share our log and GPS information, hopefully further illuminating future travelers to the less frequented routes and parts of this section

*'''''Jonathan Mudde'''''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT in the very south and in the north. I'll start on the first of January around Ushuaia. And after that I like to use the border close to O'Higgins and hike some parts around Laguna de la laja I'm looking forward to use the gpx files. Thanks in advance! I have read many parts with great respect for your work and honering the lokal people. Regards Jonathan Mudde/Abishaloom

*'''Matthias''' Küme naqün antü! I've been following this fascinating idea for years, and now I can hopefully explore a small part of it myself and contribute to its long-term existence. I will arrive in Santiago in January, then I would like to follo'''w the GPT southwards, walking until about GPT20. But I am flexible in my plans on the ground, I am open to spontaneity and ever-changing challenges. Alles Leben ist Problemlösen.

*'''Carina''' Hi! Thank you so much for the detailed GPT resource you have created. It's been a dream of mine to hike/trail run through parts of Patagonia, and it would be really helpful to see the GPT track files to help with my route planning. I'm planning to go in 1-2 years from now, so plenty of time to plan still. Very happy to contribute / provide feedback on route sections once I'm there myself. Thank you :)

*'''Paulina''' Hello everybody. First of all, I would like to thank you for all the huge job you put into this projekt. I'm really amased. I will start a part of GPT in January, I'm especially interested in GPT because it seems wild, unspoilt and very interesting from cultural point of view. I also love the idea that everyone can create its own trail and that three is no one and the best option. Living in Europe where in some parts of the mountain we focus maybe too much on kilometers and speed, it seems that GPT offers something much more important. I will be more than happy to contibute to this beautiful projekt.

*'''Mitschu''' Hello, after spending 9 weeks in Patagonia (pre pandemic) I am back with the aim to explore even more :) I thought about starting in Bariloche, explore the lake area going north (following part of Huella Andina) and finally cross over to chile and start at section 16 southbound mid/end of december. I used the pandemic for some long distance hikes in europe (GR5, half of GR10/11 and TMB) and cant wait to enjoy the beauty of patagonia. I will hike solo but open to meet up with fellow hikers if someone happen to be in the area :) I am following the project since 2 years... impressive work. Happy to contribute as well! Looking forward hearing from you! Thanks

*'''Rainbow16''' Hi Jan & fellow hikers! My name is Tanja and I am currently planning to walk Sections 6-22 starting end of December 2023. Still a bit dizzy from reading the hikers manual (what a great documentation!), I am excited to further explore this Patagonian trail network via the track files. A huge thanks to Jan and Meylin for their adventurous spirit and dedication as well as all other collaborators (what a cool community!). Looking forward to contributing myself once I put my feet on GPT grounds.

*'''Frans van Driel''' Hi Jan, first and foremost I would like to thank you for all the work you put into the GPT. Truly impressive to read the manual! I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT. I'll explain more in detail in the upcoming email. My timeframe will be half December 2023 till half January 2024. I'm looking forward to this amazing experience and would like to start some more detailed planning using the gpx files. Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Frans van Driel

*'''Owen Hutchison (elhutcho)''' Hey Jan! Am incredibly impressed with what you have been able to put together with the GPT - it’s an amazing achievement for which I’m sure many are thankful. I have been reading through the manual in preparation for a trip in February and March 2024. My partner and I will make our way down from Lago Puelo (GPT 22/23) to El Chalten via a mix of different segments and pack rafting. To assist in planning and preparation, I’d be really grateful to receive the the KMZ/GPX Files. I am very happy to contribute back to the project in anyway I can. Thanks again! Owen

*'''Piotr Szatkowski''' Hello Jan, primarily I would like to say thank you for the massive amount of dedication you put into creating the whole guide. The quality of it, the precision everything is described with is very impressive.I would like to kindly ask you if you could share with me the KMZ/GPX Files. I am incredibly humbled to be able to discover the beauty of the regions of Patagonia. Can't wait into immerse in to this journey of solitude. I will be starting in end of December for section and or 2 heading south. Will probably hike for 2 months. I am not sure how long exactly.

*'''Ella Meyer''' Hi Jan, I am planning to walk parts of the GPT as part of a project studying and documenting people's relationships to water along long-distance trails. As per your suggestion when we talked on the phone one year ago, I would like to hike Sections 1-12. I may also skip to Sections 21, 22, 63 and 69. I am hoping to depart Southbound around late December (2023). I am very excited to embark on this journey, and welcome anyone else planning on hiking these sections to connect with me (contact info can be found on my website https://ellameyer.com/)

*'''Vlad Ivanchuk (vladdi)''' I'm planning to walk some southern sections of GPT northbound from Ushuaia starting in December 2023 for just over a month. I look forward to immersing myself in the landscapes and culture of Patagonia, and I'd appreciate access to GPS files to enable this adventure.

*'''Robin Marcille''' Hi Jan, hi all, thank you for this immense amount of work. After sailing from France to Ushuaïa, we are planning to walk parts of the GPT norhbound from Puerto Williams on November 2024 for approx. 3 months. We would be very grateful to access the GPS files to prepare our trip ! We are especially interested in the various options between Puerto Williams and Cochrane. We're super excited to participate to this project and would like to propose some mountaineering options !

*'''Cyril AC'H (Cy)''' Hi, can't wait more to get back with GG on the GPT after 2 years break, from El Bolson southbound toward Cochrane and El Chalten in a packrafting mode for those sections. No rush, side trips to fjords, we will see how far we get ! Thx for the KMZ/GPX Files !

*'''Martin_crgt''' Hi all, thanks for your work Jan, and for everyone's contributions to this adventure, My sister and I are planning to do the GPT in February 2024 from section 6 down south. Having the GPS data would be a great help to help us plan.

*'''maddidunster''' Hi Jan, Tom and I are two Australians planning to hike northbound from El Chalten to wherever we make it with the time we have from February to April 2024. Super excited, can't wait!

*'''guswimbo''' Hello Jan, thank you for all of your and others' work on putting together this incredible wealth of information! I'm planning on backpacking/packrafting from Cochamo to El Chalten in January/February 2023.

* '''Oscar Crassous''' Hello Jan, I'm a french men who will travel northbound during 9 months in South America, between november and august. I have planned to walk most of the time and I am very excited to hike some parts of the GPT during my trip. Thanks for your work.

* '''Matthieu''' Hello Meylin and Jan, former hiker on the GPT (season 2019-2020, northbound), would gladly go back on trail this year to hike some other parts southbound (Santiago-Antuco, Puyehue - Coyhaique)!

* '''GriffinWagner13''' Hello Jan, planning to travel to Chile/Argentinia in 2025. I'll be doing some of the sections between GPT01 and GPT40, bussing between routes as possible. I definitely want to hit some of the northern volcanoes as well as the southern routes! Super excited to hike it.

* '''edwinb''' Hello Jan, planning to fly to Santiago in 2 weeks. Thinking about gpt2/3 to do something close to Santiago and especially want to do the tracks in the araucania this time. gpt33h and gpt37h look very attractive to. Thanks again for all the work! Edwin

* '''lilian''' Hello Jan, i'm planning to have a 3-4 months hike through Greater Patagonia, I will travel to Santiago in mid-November 2023 and maybe end my hike about March to April at somewhere south. I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 to 69, would be incredibly grateful to have the files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!

* '''zipgerm''' Hey Jan, Thank you for your work and contributing the route information to the world! I'll be in Chile/Argentina from beginning of December until April. If my feet are willing, I want to walk parts of the GPT starting with section 05 or 06 southwards. I read a great part of your guide and already bought a GPS with satellite pager - alhough I never used neither of them on my off-track hiking tours before. Looking forward to Chile and the Andes. Matthias

* '''JordanJennings''' Hi Jan, my plan is to packraft soundbound sections 17-30 over the season, but will likely begin with a few (conditions appropriate) sections between 30-40 from November after completing some packrafting training around Puerto Río Tranquilo. I would like to also thank you for dedication so much time and energy into making this possible for all of us

*'''LottiRummel''' Hi Jan, thank you for all your fantastic work! We are planning to spend January 2024 in Chile and want to hike starting from around GPT 06 southwards. I hope the gpx tracks will help us decide which sections to plan. Thanks! Alex and Lotti

*'''Rowe99''' Hi Jan, first of all, many thanks to you and everyone else who contributed to the manual. I have never seen so much information about such a large network for any other region in an open-source manner. I am planning to hike this year (2023) from December to mid-February starting from El Chaltén northwards with a pakraft. Thanks for all the information so far! Cheers Roman!

*'''Jonas._____''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to hike through Patagonia from December to February/March. I will start in Puerto Montt and then go south from there as far as time and terrain permits. The great GPT Hikers' Manual did already give me a really good insight in what to expect and I would really appreciate having the GPT Track Files as well to prepare for my trip as much as possible! Thanks for your help!

*'''ColineW''' Hi Jan ! Thank you a lot for the amazing work you did with the "Great Patagonian Trail, Hikers Manual" ! It's full of wize advices and ideas I maybe would havenot find myself. I will go in Chili from mid-december to mid-march, meet up with my father who is currently wandering in the south. We'd like the hike northbound from GPT20 to GPT01. The GPS files would be a great help for you, since I tried my plan an itinerary on Google Earth and, as you know, I lost sight of some roads in the forest. My father has a Garmin66i, so we'll be able to send the datas of our trail to you. Have a nice day !

*'''Roi Keler''' Hello Jan, First of all, thank you for the amazing work you did and still do, it's a great inspiration for me. I plan to spend 3-4 months in Patagonia and I want to combine several walking sections of the GPT between section GPT01 - GPT16 & GPT32 - GPT46. After reading the hikers' manual and completing the preparations, I decided not to focus on a meticulous plan because it is important for me to be spontaneous and keep the options open. The GPS files in combination with the hikers' manual will allow me to choose the hiking sactions that suit me and then send the information to you and share with the community. Thanks for everything!

*'''Marmur''' Hi Jan! We are a couple and are planning to hike the GPT from start to end, in 2 seasons (hopefully) starting next season. We have visited Patagonia in the past and can't wait to get to know it more intimately, as we loved it so much. hiking in remote locations with unmarked trails is not new to us, but we are exited about the challenges that are waiting for us at this epic terrain. this is a great chance to thank you for all this impressive work that you've been doing, and you can count on us that after all this ends for us, we will share all inputs and updates with you and the community.

*'''Lukas Deleu''' Hi Jan, my girlfriend and I are planning to do 3-4 months of hiking through Greater Patagonia starting this december. We chose some of the sections that most appealed to us and hope to connect them by public transport. Gpt 6-12, 16-19, 32-40 is what we have in mind for the moment. Having the trackfiles would be a great help offcourse. Cheers.

*'''Huemul''' Hello Jan, I'm Frank from Irlanda. I hope to continue southbound in November from El Chalten to Isla Navarino. Thanks for all your help & advice so far.

*'''RoshiJ''' Hi Jan, what an amazing piece of work you've established in the GPT hiker's manual, and its amazing to see how many people are inspired by it. I am planning on exploring Patagonia starting in November, with no end date as of yet. My only goal is to wander and wonder but I'd like to do so well-informed and as prepared as possible. I already feel so after reading the manual but it would be even better to set out armed with your GPS files. I also love the idea of using wikiexplora as a platform to communicate within a like-minded community with similar goals so am enthusiastic to share my own experiences and read those of others.

*'''Pieper92''' Holá Jan, Thank you for providing this comprehensive manual. I will travel to Patagonia in November 2023 and want to make my way from santiago to tierra del fuego by feet, on my beloved packraft but also longer sections by bus transport. Have not picked all sections but Lagos Chilenos/argentinos, parts of fjord area and tierra del fuego are in focus. Especially I want to circumvent the spoiled national parks in the south. Your guide has already been a great help up to know but the GPT track files would be extraordinary helpfull. I will especially try to provide novel exploration data by packraft.

*'''nickcarter884''' Dear Jan, Thank you so much for all the work you have done on this manual and the route, it's fantastic! Some friends and I are planning to do the section around El Chalten in February 2024 and would really like to follow your routes rather than the roads. Please could I have access to the GPS files so we can be in the real nature, not just the road? :-)

*'''delabien''' Dear Jan, I am very inspired by your manual. My partner and I plan to travel for 4 months starting from the capital Santiago going slowly to the south (starting in November 2023). Thus we would like to hike some of the sections you and the other collaborators assembled. In order to make the expedition more feasible for us we intent to use the local public transportation for some parts. Really looking forward to experience the changing landscapes during the route. Thank you

*'''wbarab''' Hi Jan, thank you for all the extensive and detailed work put into this manual. My partner and I (American & Spanish)plan to hike the GPT from mid November 2023 until late February or March 2024. So far GPT 6-12, 14-16, 19, and 32-40 have stood out to us as a start, but our investigations continue and we plan to add at least another half dozen sections (plus some "maybes" if time permits)! To continue we would really appreciate access to the trackfiles.

*'''ranulph24''' Hi Jan, great manual! Thank you for putting so much passion in this project. I consider hiking on the GPT in November 2024 - April 2025. I am mainly aiming for the northern part 5 - 30 and add a smaller section in the south. For refining my plans I would like to study the GPS Track Files in detail.

*'''MMartinez''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for this incredible amount of work. It is really inspiring and exciting. We are a couple (American and Polish) and we are interested in hiking some of the sections of the GPT later this year. We have been reading the manual and adjusting and readjusting plans the more we learn (there's so much to learn!) We would really appreciate access to the track files to help with the planning. Thank you so much again!

*'''SeanMaskill''' Hi Jan, Thanks for all of your work! I've wanted to hike sections of the GPT for a few years. I've now started the research seriously and tracks would help me decide which sections I'd like to hike. Cheers Sean.

*'''MarmotAndBear''' Dear Jan, Thank you for putting in so much dedicated work, to create the Hiker’s Manual, and in doing so helping others to hike and appreciate this part of the world. We are a German-Singaporean couple and we have been following the GPT community for almost one year now. We have quit our jobs not long ago and have started visiting Central Asia, where we’ve been able to do some amazing hikes. Before setting foot on the GPT this coming (southern) summer, we are planning to improve our Spanish in other South American countries. We hope a few weeks of dedicated learning will do the trick. Once on the trail, we are planning to hike and packraft as much of the GPT as we can during the coming season. Let’s see how far our feet and boat will carry us :)

*'''guaraches80''' Hello and good afternoon Jan. I have been reading and preparing for some sections of the trail you have put together. I, a Mexican American, and a Colombian friend will be backpacking through Brazil and later to Argentina in the coming months and we would love to see some of the wonderful trails you and others have experienced. Obviously, because of our backgrounds we both speak fluent Spanish and have years of backpacking, hiking and bushcrafting experience. This is something I look forward to with the uptmost energy and so will eagerly await the track files to begin further in-depth planning. Thank you for your time. Until next time!

*'''blissfulmisgivings''' Hi Jan, Thank you for providing so much detailed and helpful information about the GPT! We (two Americans) are excited to try packrafting portions of the GPT beginning in November 2023. The guidance you've provided in the manual has already been invaluable to our preparations, and we look forward to reviewing and using the GPT track files in our journey. Thanks again!

*'''YannickCOLL''' Hi Jan, Thank you very much for your work and your dedication to the GPT. We are immersing in the GPT universe with pleasure and a growing sense of adventure. We are a couple (French and Belgian) and we’re looking to hike some sections of the GPT between mid-November 2023 until April 2024 (Sections: 1-12 / 16 / 19 / 32-40). These are the sections that we selected so far and that we are more attracted to, knowing that of course it can change. We were wondering if you could grant us access to the GPS tracks in order for us to prepare for the GPT. We understand that this is an unofficial trail and that it is still a work in progress and we are eager to help in any way we can to continue to build this ‘trail’. Nolwenn & Yannick

*'''daniel.s''' Hi Jan, amazing work with the Hiker's Manual! I hope to meet some of you on the trail next season. I'm planning to do some of the packrafting sections starting at GPT 17. The track files would be very helpful to make it an unforgettable experience. Greetings from Austria, Daniel

*'''hevike''' Hello fellow hiking community, I'm Jens from Germany looking into hiking sections of the GPT this November until the end of February. Thanks for the amazing work you all have put into this project and I'm looking forward to contribute myself.

*'''MartinGilles''' Hola Jan, soy Martin de Belgica y estoy planeando hacer una parte del GPT al principio de noviembre hasta el 20 de diciembre. Me gustaria tener the GPS tracks para organisarme y ver lo que me conviene mas. Muchas gracias por lo que hiciste y para permitir la exploracion de esta parte del mundo. Un placer, Martin.

*'''Marc Altena''' Hi Jan, thanks for all your hard work exploring the hidden trails of Patagonia. I'm hoping to do sections 6 to 10, 16 to 22 and 32 to 40 early next year. The GPS tracks would be helpful. Tanks in advance for sending them. Kind regards, Marc

*'''Lorenzo''' Hi Jan, I don't have specific plans concerning the GPT yet, but that might change soon. After the reading the first 300 pages of your guidebook it seems to me like a real challenge and an unforgettable experience at the same time. I'll call it a dream to hike at least parts of it, and extensive planning is the first step to make your dreams come true.

*'''Joscha97''' Hi Jan, I gonna travel to Chile in the beginning of next year and I am really fascinated by the idea of the GPT. I would love to hike some parts of it, starting in Santiago. Thanks for all the work you put into this project. Greetings

*'''Larix84''' Hello Jan, he hablado contigo con whatsapp hace 2 semanas Mi proyecto de trail para el ano que viene se confirma, un saludo'''

*'''Noemie''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for making us discover those incredible paths and landscapes in an ethical way. I have been hiking in Chilean Patagonia for a few months now and I wish to keep discovering the region more deeply by hiking through a few sections of the GPT, especially GPT36H (ruta de los Pioneros). Depending on how this goes, and on the weather conditions, I may try to go further north around sections 08-09. Thanks for all your work, the resources you provided have been super helpful!

*'''TheRebel''' Hey Jan thanks for the big package of information you provide with tha website/pdf I'm in Argentina since 3 months and hiked many km in the official and more marked areas (bariloche, bolson, esquel, el Chaltén, El Calafate, Ushuaia and more) and now I'm on the way back north and wanna end up in Bolivia or maybe even Columbia in the next 6 months... I've heard about your site from a Canadian guy who did some sections more north and I thought it would be nice to do some more trails in a little more remote areas on my way north
Greatings TheRebel

*'''Jen''' Hi Jan and so, so many thanks for all the incredible work you have done here. I am currently in Peru and planning to fly south to begin the beginning of GPT01 in the next few weeks and see how long I can walk for before things become too off season. I will halt and recommence when the season comes back in. If I manage to journey to Punta Arenas in the end, whenever this might be, then I am happy! Thank you, Jen.

*'''Ollie''' Hello Jan. I am from Wales and currently is
Brazil after sailing here from Europe. My plan is to work my way towards southern Argentina where I will stop and work for a while. Hopefully improving my Spanish, get to know the culture more and spend my weekends in the mountains to prepare. The idea is to start from Tierra Del Fuego, head north and just take it step by step. The manual has been a great read thank you for being so thorough. Love it. Cheers.

*'''Silke & Hans''' Hello, We are a Belgian couple currently on a multiyear bikepacking, trekking & mountaineering trip through South-America. We'd been looking forward to do some sections of the GPT for a long time. We are currently in Chile Chico, and planning to do the GPT35 section. We probably want to do some more sections further South.

*'''Jakub+Veronika''' Hi Jan, we're a couple from Czechia, currently almost one month in Chile getting to know the country, it's history and it's people's culture. We'd like to hike some parts of the GPT south from Puerto Montt, where we are based right now. Thanks for this awesome work!

*'''Alan''' Hola Jan! I'm Alan from California. I'm interested in doing GPT32 and GPT33H. Thanks for all the resources you have provided so far!

*'''Diegoara''' Hi! My name is Diego and I am from Chile and I'm interested in the GPT to do de GPT18 & GPT19, i would be a little more than a week, i think that is amazing the work that you do making this GPT in my country.Thanks!

*'''Jess&Paco''' Hey Jan ! We are from France and we would love to hike the GPT between march and april 2023. We plan to connect a few sections in the great lakes region (between section GPT45 and GPT35, south to north) for about a month. And if the weather is favorable, we would explore in april a little bit of the nothern parts of the GPT (volcanos region) but without necessarily connecting steps, while being around for a workaway. Thanks a lot for all this work !

*'''blklb''' Hi Jan! I'll be leaving for Chile in a few days and would like to do bits and pieces of the sections between Curico and Conaripe, perhaps farther south. I'll be combining trekking with time spent in towns/cities. This is going to be a leisurely exploration of the GPT, with the possiblity of a longer GPT-specific trip in the future. Thanks!

*'''Joachim''' Holà Jan! I'm Joachim from France. I'm coming to Chile in a few weeks, and found your website with a lot of valuable informations on this beautiful itinerary! I don't have a fixed plan yet but my idea is to start around Santiago and go South until winter begins. I'd love to get a hand on those gpx files to help me plan properly, I'll be happy to share feedback when coming home. Many thanks for all the work you put in!

*'''Johnny1968''' Hi Jan! We are a couple from Italy and want to to start mid february 2023 from Santiago for the GPT. We have 2 months of time and want to see how far we get, without hurry, soaking up nature and culture. Thanks for the manual and creating the track files, great respect for the ethics!

*'''derameisenbaer''' Hi, two people from Germany. We'll be hiking part of the GPT (GPT06-GPT12) in February. If there's time left we might be able to hike part of the more southern sections as well. Really looking forward to it and really aprreciate the great work on this page and the Hikers Manual!

*'''ebse''' Hello, I'm Ed from England. Would love to help contribute to this mammoth project by hopefully walking GPT01 - GPT20ish in late 2023. Looks like a remarkable experience all round; I'd be very grateful to be part of it.

*'''Martio''' Saludos, soy Martial ! landing on jan. 14th for a 2 month journey into Chilean natural wonders. I plan to hike a selection of northern GPT sections between 1 and 22. Plans purposely open for this first experience and can't wait to get involved in the community. Ps: Jan, you rock !

*'''Clemgbl''' I'm Clement from France. Currently hiking in Chile from month, I would like to continue my trek on the GPT next month (january and February 2023). I plan to start in Coyhaique and hike until El Chalten (GPT 31 to GPT 40).

*'''Jcoxxx''' I'm Jeff from Alaska. Hopefully I'll be hiking and packrafting section 17 to 39, starting this January. I'm really excited to be a part of this project and share my trackfiles.

*'''Eleebeatriz''' Hi, I'm Elena from Chile. On the 27th of this month we are going to carry out the Gpt7, we will enter through the "Puente Ingles" , in San Fabian de Alico, up to the Polcura mountain range, in Antuco. Greetings and I hope in January I will be editing what I have done to share it with you!

*'''MarcGPT''' Hola! Last year while hiking around Cochrane, I learned about the GPT. Looking forward to return and contribute to the GPT manual.

*'''Franzz''' Hi! I'm Franzz from Switzerland. I'm planning to thru-hike my own version of the GPT next year. Using your tracking files would be a great help planning the itinerary :) I would be more than happy to share back my own track files and experiences once I'm back.

*'''Nicktravels_''' Hey mate, I'm Nick - i'm planning on a hike/packraft of mumtiple segments with my three amigos. Leave only footprints is a big part of our travelling philosophy and I have a lot of respect for the ethos you carry through the information provided.

*'''Timo''' Hi, I'm Timothée. I'm French but also from Munich Germany! I plan on being in Chile beginning of next year and on doing someof the sections (probably 6-22, 32-40 more or less). I'm super impressed by all the gathered and explained documentations and advices form the Manual and would love to contribute !

*'''zozo''' Hi, my name is Zohar. I'm from Israel and plan on doing some trekking in Patagonia in January 2023. planning to do parts of the GPT from south to north starting at section 46.

*'''florianluca''' Hi, my name is Florian. I'm from Germany and plan on doing some trekking in Chile at the Beginning of next year (2023). I appreciate the work that went into this project and would like to use some of it for planning some of our tour.

*'''willcampbell444''' Hi, I'm Will from Canada. I'm interested in hiking some of the trail as I make my way south through Chile! I was thinking of starting at section 6 in mid December, depending on the weather. I really appreciate all the work done putting together the trail, and I hope to contribute with my track files and notes.

*'''Dallas''' Hi, I´m Dallas, from Berkeley, California, USA. I am interested in planning a trip in early 2023 to explore the beauty of Patagonia and indulge in my passion for slow, human-powered travel. This trip is open-ended and intentionally meandering, and the GPT looks like an excellent basis of exploration.

*'''Nicopo''' Hi, I´m Nicolás, from Buenos Aires. My girlfriend and I have been hiking in Patagonia for the last few years and we are planning on hiking sections of the GPT from December to February. We are already getting started with our planning and are looking forward to contributing with what we can. Thank you!

*'''Newt, Birdie, and Possum''' Hi! We are on our way back to Patagonia for the third time. The three of us have hiked in Patagonia and many other places in the world together. We will have 1 month to hike a portion of the GPT, specifically focusing on 33H -38H going northbound. We are inspired by this document and we can't wait to become contributing members of this community. Thank you!

*'''pgantier''' Hi, I'm Pierre from France. I discovered Chile and South America 5 years ago during an exchange semester and look forward to going back there for a long trip (within the next 5 years for around 12 months). I would love to do some part of the Greater Patagonian trail during this future gap year and I want to prepare well it advance to continue to get experience to be ready for this gread adventure !

*'''Jonny6k''' Hi, im planning on hiking some sections of the GPT from late December until March (or until i get tired!) I am planning on sections 6-22, but nothing is certain yet. I hope to add to the track files and contribute with some notes regarding the trails. i look forward to arriving in chile! Jonny

*'''felagund''' Hello, I would like to hike the GPT in December-February, from Santiago till as far as I can get and as long as a I enjoy it. So I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 till about 40, even though I probably won't reach that far. I am a contributor to OSM so I was thinking that would be my main form of contribution, though I would not want to put paths that are disputed there of course. Tomas

*'''Arnaudlacoste''' Hello Jan! I have been a big fan of the GPT for some years now. I just moved back to Chile after living for the past 8 years in Europe and would love to discover a few sections of the GPT. I will be settling in Araucania region so I would love to have access to the track files and plan which sections I will immerge myself into. I hope I can also contribute to it and meet some of the community in the following months/years. Thanks you and the community for this marvelous work! Cheers, Arnaud.

*"ChristopherT"Hello! Christopher from Austria here. My girlfriend Anna from Germany and I are planning to do the gpt. We are still trying to figure out which sections we would like to trek.We definetly want to explore and hike in Feuerland though.We would very much appreciate the track files to help us with our decision and on our journey. I hope we can contribute a bit as well. Thank you!
Cheers,
Christopher and Anna

* '''Matous'''Hi everyone! Here Matous and Johana. Couple from Czechia. We are planning to hike some sections on GPT at the beginning of next year. We are interested in GPT06 - 22. The track files would be great help in planning. And thank you for amazing work. We´ll be happy to contribute.

* '''guilhermealexs''' Hi! Guilherme Alexsander here from Brazil. Me and some friends are planning to walk some parts of the GPT. We are currently interested in the Los Quenes - Central Cipreces section. I'd like to get the track files to help us with planning. Thanks!

*"nmakepeace" Hello everyone, Natalie here from Canada, thank you to Jan and everyone for their contributions! My plan is to hike southbound on the GPT starting at Termas del Flaco (connect@ GPT05) because I want to do some specific mountains in Central Chile first. I may also look into connecting Volcán Maipo to coya. To make this all easier and more safe I would be not only grateful for the GPS files but honored! Start: mid/late December until begining of March. Hope to hear tales from you all soon!

* '''rom1dwker''' My girlfriend and I will cycle southward patagonian roads and ripio from mid december 22 to mid february 23, and we plan to maybe hike some sections of the GPT, especially the ones in Jenimeini where we have already been a few years ago, dependind on how everything goes with the cycling and and the roads we will actually take.

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike on GPT from January till March 2023. We are on a gap year after our studies, and during that time we would love to enjoy the wilderness of Patagonia. We are planning to first do some singular sections and after gaining some knowledge and experience in Patatagonia hiking, we would like to do some longer distances. We are also exited to combine it with hitchhiking to minimalize environmental impact.

* '''hannahp24''' My partner Eric & I will hike GPT 32-36 in Dec-Jan 2022/2023. Excited to explore new places and give guidance to what we find here.

* '''Jmcantin''' Hi Jan, thanks for the hard work in this awesome guide! I am planning a Southbound hike of the GPT from Santiago de Chile in January 2023 for a couple of months. I would love to have the track files to properly plan my route. Thank you for your help :)

* ''' bforselv''' Hello guys, my wife and I live north of the Artic Circle in Norway and we are planing to go to Chile for hiking January and February. We want to do sections of the GPT.

* ''' Ishaysachs(Ishay)''' Hello Jan! Ishay from Israel here. Just finished the PCT and looking forward to do some sections of the GPT this January-March. Would love to get access to the files in order to plan my route (: thank you for putting so much effort into this. That's an incredible project and I can't wait to start hiking and share the journey with this great community.

*''' greenh3624 (Helen and Craig)''' Hello Hello Jan. Thank you so much for providing all this incredible information from the manual, we are both super grateful and are looking forward to contributing. Looking in to sections GPT 16- 05/06 for 2023 and hopefully some southern route sections from there. Just a quick comment to request track files. Your manual is incredible by the way. Mil gracias!

* ''' Christophe (Alex & Christophe)''' Hi Jan! Thanks a lot for all this informations and for your work. We are now travelling in south America with our van and are planning to sell it and start to hike the GPT in December 2023 for 2 or 3 month. This track files would help us a lot to plan this incredible adventure.

*'''miguelvdvelden (Miguel)''' Hola Jan! I’m in awe of everything you’ve put together for the GPT. It’s so comprehensive and as a sustainability student I am grateful for the focus on both the environmental and social sustainability of the region and its communities. I am hoping to hike or packraft a part of the GPT over six weeks or so in Jan-Feb 2023. I am in full planning mode now, hence my request here. Muchas gracias por todo. Abrazo.

*'''nico142857''' Hola Jan! Hace un tiempo habia leido parte del manual y veo que ahora esta actualizado. Desde ese momento que quede maravillado con la rigurosidad de tu trabajo y lo sigo haciendo ahora. Me suscribo a esta lista para poder obtener los track files, pues me interesa recorrer algunas secciones en las proximas vacaciones de verano 2022/2023. Estare muy agradecido si lo puedes mandar. Saludos desde Chile!. nicolas.

*'''Lore Olivares''' Hola Jan, gracias por compartir esta valiosa información. Soy de Chile y junto a mi amigo queremos hacer la parte norte del GPT desde Santiago. Te agradeceré mucho si nos puedes compartir los datos GPX. Muchas gracias de antemano.
*'''annéesympathique;) (Rémy D.)''' Hi guys, I‘m a student from Belgium and I plan to walk the GPT from december to march. That’s why having the GPX track files would help me realize this project. A big respect about all the work behind the GPT.
* ''' TOBEL ''' Congratulations to the GPT Hikers Manual. I am from Germany and a bit older then the most here. This year I will hike some parts of the GPT, so I would like to get the gpx files.

* ''' Michaelstabile (Mike & Avery) Hi, Thanks for compiling all of this information. We are Backpacking and Pack rafting Guides in Alaska. We are planning to start in 2023 and Continue through all the way back to Alaska. Hiking, bike packing, Packrafting and sea kayaking. Having this track files would be incredible for us helping with planning for this section of our journey.

* ''' Martin&Helena (Martin.h)''' Hello guys! Thanks for the amazing work you’re doing with the GPT. We are a couple from Prague, Czech republic, planning to start hiking from the beginning of December, most likely until the end of March. We would use the track files for planning our hike and navigation. Thank you, Martin&Helena

* '''EDAWILSON (Ed)''' Hello! We are a couple from Scotland who are heading to Patagonia for a couple of months hiking this October/ November, and we are looking to incorporate some elements of the GPT into our trip. 2022 conditions permitting, we will likely explore some sections of the Fjord route; as well as Glacier Chica to El Chaltén; and fingers crossed some sections south of here. I would love to overlay the track files over GE for a better planning experience. We love the spirit of the community you are building here! Great work!

* '''Ridgepathpictures (Jani)''' Hi! Myself and a couple of friends are planning a packrafting trip in Patagonia at the start of 2023. We will be dipping in and out of the regular packrafting route, so sections 17 to 39. The aid of the track files would be greatly appreciated. I'm honestly astounded by the work you have put into this trail, it's truly very inspiring.

* '''Slingshot (Jeremy)''' Hi! My soon to be wife and I are planning a 3 month trek from GPT05 southbound and would greatly benefit from the GPT track files. Thank you so much for your hikers manual and for providing access to these files. It has already greatly benefited us.

* '''Alexis (dm) & Iris''' Hello! We are a 29/28 years old couple from France and are starting a sabbatical in South America for a year in December. We are landing in Puntas Arenas and would like to hike our way, on the GPT or not, through Chile up to the Ecuador. To better plan our trip, we would like to access the GPT track files and are obviously willing to contribute to the initiative. Many thanks.

*'''Max''': Hello, I am from Germany and I really like to hike. Next year, I plan to hike from Santiago de Chile all the way down to Ushuaia with a Packraft. To do that, I would like to get the gpx files, so I can choose from the routes. Thank you for all of this.

*'''Ted''': Hi guys, I'm a 33 year old austrian guy and I plan to hike a few sections of the GPT in October and November. it would be great if i could have the gpx data so i can plan the routes better. great community

*'''Chris and Tara''': Hello!!! We are husband and wife, being 33 and 26 years old respectively. We plan to walk from Barilloche to Santiago incorporating large sections of the GPT. There are no fixed plans for sections and times, just to fully immerse our selves in Patagonia, it’s people and way of life. Thank you and all those who have contributes for your incredible work so far, I look forward to being able to contribute for others to enjoy!

**'''Wannes''': Hello, I'm a 31 year old belgian who plans a two week trek/run in the beginning of November. I would love to do a part of the GPT. Could I receive the gpt tracks to decide which part would be ok to do? Kind regards. Wonderfull work!

*'''Yannic & Mirjam''': Hello together. We are Yannic and Mirjam and since one year on a world trip. We plan to spend a few months in Patagonia next and hike parts of the GPT. Which parts exactly we are currently still working out. Would it be possible to get the GPS tracks? Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''AdriKunz''': Hello, first of all, a huge thank for all your amazing work. I am so grateful for this sharing which will allow me I hope to live a unique experience. I'm a actually working in French Guyana, but were looking for an immersive hick before living this continent. I finally came across this extraordinary adventure, which I think corresponds to me in every way. I plan to try the GTP from Santiago to part 14 or 15 of the GPT in a month and a week. I intend to start the hike in mid november. May i aske you the GPT track of thoses parts ?

*'''Avisito''': Finally going for it - December 2022! Plan to start at GPT05 and go south for several weeks - would love to start exploring the GPS track files. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

*'''Veronica''': Hello, I am Canadian and will be spending six months in South America from October 2022 to March 2023. While I am there I would love to spend a few of these months hiking various portions of the GPT, which is why I would love to obtain the GPS track files. Thank you so much for all this work and to all those who have compiled all this information. I am very much appreciative of all of this!

*'''Andes et Tentes''': Hello, we are 3 french students taking a year off to explore South America. We are planning to explore Patagonia between February and April 2023 by hiking on some specific sections of the GPT. That's why we are asking for the GPS tracks. Many thanks for the huge work achieved ! It is impressively detailed and complete !

*'''ondra''': Hello! My name is Ondrej and I am from the Czech Republic. I have been reading about Jan's and others' experiences on the GPT for the past two years. I will finally have a chance to walk a part of the trail myself in January - March 2023. I am adding myself to the list to kindly request the track files. Thank you Jan for putting this together.

*'''Mat''': Hi! from France. I’m planning a few months hiking trip to discover south America. I’ll most probably walk parts of the Gpt (as much as I can). I would be grateful to receive the necessary gpx files. Thank you for the this very huge and inspiring work.

*'''Alice & Florian''': Hola! We are Alice & Florian, a french couple who love hiking. We who will travel in South America and especially in Chile in September and October this year (2022), and we read about the GPT and some blogs, which really peaked our interest. Our project is to walk going south along the GPT for about a month, somewhere between September and November. After reading the hiker's manual, we came here in order to do access the GPX files and prepare deeper our project. Muchas Gracias para todo este trabalho.

*'''Thomas - Chilzin, Brah!''': Hola! I'm a thru hiker planning to do a large part of the GPT mostly continuously before heading north on a huge trip to explore South America. I really appreciate this resource and will do my best to contribute before and while I'm on trail. Thank you!

*'''Aneso''': Hola! I'm Aneso, a French woman who loves hiking. I heard about the GPT while doing research following my plan to go to South America for 1 year.
My project on the GPT being to leave from the south in the direction of the north, over a period of 1 month (or even a little more) from January 2023.
In my research I am missing the exact GPX files for my GPS.
Thank you in advance and congratulations again for all the work provided and to which we have access.

*'''Ariane''': Hola! I'm French and I will be hiking in Patagonia in April (and perhaps May); my plans are not yet well defined but I'd like to follow parts of the GPT on my way northward. Thanks for your super useful work!

*'''OriolGirona''': Hola! I'm from Barcelona but living at nearby Girona. Love hiking and cycling, being my longer tours so far between 4 and 6 weeks on the trail. I hear about the GPT two years ago while looking for new ideas during covid lockdown. I already read the manual a couple of times, and I am thrilled to travel to Santiago next November / December for a couple of month, probably starting from section 1. And at this point of planning I will apreciate to have the GPX tracks to get deeper into this process. Awesome work. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''JuanchoUgarte''': Hola! I'm a Chilean guy that loves hiking. I hear about the GPT a few years ago. This year while doing the Travesia Cerro Castillo realized that it was part of the GPT and decided to start planning to do it on summer 2023. During 2021 did the GR11 in Spain and want to do something in Chile this time (the GPX tracks would be very useful for all the planning) Probably will start near Parque Inglés. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''LeanderDc''': Hey hey, we're a crew of 3 hiking-friends from Belgium and Chile. We're planning on walking a part of the GPT starting from around Cochamó till O'Higgins, probably taking some ferries and hitchhikes in between. We're starting to refine our exact route, by reading the manual and analyzing google earth, and would hugely benefit from the exact GPX files. Thanks in advance!

*'''rowanl''': Hello, I'm an avid hiker from Canada looking to explore trails along the carretera austral especially around Cerro Castillo National Park. I hope to use the track files to help refine my plans. I appreciate all the information provided, Thank you!

*'''meotr''': Hi! I'm a french engineer planning to hike some parts of the main route between mid-february and mid-march during a 3-4 months period in Chile and Argentina. Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''Sergio''': Hi! I live in Santiago and I'm planning on hiking some of the first GPTs on early February and hopefully some of the southern parts later on. Thank you very much for all the work you have put into this, it's an incredible thing what you have done!!

*jdhanlon/Jen and Vince''': Hi! I am planning to hike and packraft a number of sections this season, from Jan - March 2022. Thank you for all your efforts and guidance in sharing information about the trail network!

*'''Gianluca/Cerna_Beltz''': Salve a tutti, Hi!! I'm italian and I'm planning to hike some part of the GPT from the end of january to mars/avril. Thank you so much for all this information and for your attitude!

*'''José''': Hi!!. I'm chilean and im planning to hike the GPT05 - 22 southbound. I would really apreciate to have access to the track files. Thank you so much for doing this, its awesome!

*'''Carlos and Ivan''': Hellow. We'll be in Chile in january and february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thank you for your great work!

*'''Mariia and Misha''': Hi! We are two Russian flying to Argentina in end of December. Fully equipped for packrafting. Planed start January 5, 2022 from Lago Puelo southbound. Sections: 1. GPT23-25P Rio Frey and Lago Amutui Quimei. 2. Then flying to Chile and resume GPT26-28P 3. GPT30P-32 4. GPT33H-35 5. GPT36P 6. 36H Northbound. End before March 25. I would be very greatful for the track files. Thank you so much for your awesome guide and work!

*'''Mawel''': Hello, I'm planning to hike the GPT or at least a part of it. Idealy, I'd like to start from Ushuaïa and travelling up north along the cordilliera. Anything concrete yet but I'm sure the track files will be very helpful to prepare this journey as best as I can.

*'''Alexey''': I will start my trip on 29.11.2021 from Lago Todos Los Santos to the North, until Lago Ranco.

*'''Matthias&Janna''': We will hike parts of the GPT in december - february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Franck''': I will hike parts of the GPT with a friend in december and january, we're interested in GPT05 to 12, 19 to 22 and 32 to 36. Thanks for the great work !! Can't wait to put my shoes on : D

*'''Nathaniel''': I will be in Chile for a few months starting in December 2021. I am considering packrafting in the vicinity of the Western Fjord Traverse (GPT90P-GPT92P) as well as hiking/packrafting a section of the main route of the GPT in Zones H and I (possibly including GPT32-40).

*'''Laurent and Maxime''': Hi there! We are two Canadians flying to Chile in January. We are fully equiped with lightweight equipment for packrafting, endure all sorts of weather and accomplish a great trip on the greater patagonian trail! We have 3 months to travel and we are very grateful of all the precious information you offer us ! Thank you very much !

*'''Rebeca y Cristián''': Buenas tardes Jan! Estuvimos conociendo distintos lugares de la décima región desde inicios del 2021, "aprovechando" las cuarentenas. Ahora estamos planeando un viaje más largo, el cual incluye packraft. Nos encantaría acceder a los archivos para planificar mejor. Desde ya, muy agradecidos.

*'''David Batguano''': Good day all. I am heading to Chile at the end of November 2021 to get some hiking in, obviously. Fist I am completing the O circuit at Torres del Paine, then will hopefully complete some of the easier sections of the GPT(I do not wish to bushwack or prove a point). I have no time constraints and will just go where I wish at a leisurely pace. I am on page 400 of the hikers manual working on routing. Though difficult, Jan's work so far is an unbelievable resource.

*'''Vera & James''': Hi all! We are planning to head over to Chile for 3 months Jan - Mar 2022 and plan to hike on the GPT. Planning is ongoing but current thinking is start at Puyehue and work north. The main motivation is to be in the mountains/wilderness for a period of time. The manual is an incredible resource! Thanks!

*'''Tobias''': Hi Jan, I'm flying into Chile on the 1 of November. My plan is to hike southwards from Frutillar to El Chaltén and visit Schools along the way. I would be very greatful for the track files GPT 22-40. Thank you so much for your amazing work!

*'''Kris&Stiina''': Greetings, we are going to Chile in November and we plan to hike some sections of the GPT. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike and logistics. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Helmut and Beatrice''': Hi JAN, we are planning to spend two months in Patagonia at the beginning of next year. We want to hike around 1000 km and the tracking data would be a great help for us to choose appropriate sections and plan our hiking adventure. High praise for the great manual!

*'''HolKann & Peanutje''': Hey all, we're planning to visit Chile in January 2022, and hope to hike parts of the GPT for the better part of (at least) 3 months. Our most recent hiking experience was the [https://thepindosway.com Pindos way] in Greece, which consisted of finding "the shadow of an old mule path" to get up or down a mountain ridge, which taught us how to handle packs of angry shepherd dogs, and which forced on us a crash course in rudimentary Greek (as we would have gone hungry otherwise). We hope to get to know Patagonia and its people in the same way, except that our Spanish skills should be a bit better.

*'''Stephan''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, i'm planning to do the GPT 22,Lago todos los santos, from Petrohue to Cochamo, hiking and packrafting. I have planned to go on October 2021. Thanks for the great work!
*'''Stéphane''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, planing a trail trip next summer in Patagonia walking from Villa Cerro Castillo to Villa o Higgins. Could you please Jan send mi the track files beetween Villa Cerro Castillo and Pto Ibanez passing through Torres el Avellano ? GPT33H. Thx a lot and long life to yout project ! Hug

*'''Martin and Kim''': Hi, we are planning to spend two oder three months next year in Patagonia. We want to hike round about 1200 km there and the track file would be very helpful to choose sections and plan our adventure. Thanks for the great manual!

*'''Vicente''': Hi, I'm planning on doing the GPT this spring of 2021, I've done other long trails through Patagonia so I want to take it to the next level. I believe this trail has a great potential to become an icon for my country and its beautiful mountains. I need the track files to prepare the adventure.

*'''Marc''' : We are two guys from Denmark who are hoping to spend a couple of months on the GPT, if possible we will begin this december. We are eager to get our hands on the track files to help us plan which sections to hike. We have a great amount of respect for all the work you have done to make this adventure possible!

*'''Simoncashyt''' : Me and my friend are Planning to spend 2.5 months in the area this December. Hoping to get this Track file and review the trail in gis with other historic route databases to really understand the sections topography, climates and route options to explore off the track file.

*'''Bastian Klein''' : I am a university student from Germany and currently only have vague plans for my hike. With the Covid situation still going on its still to be determined when I will actually get to go hiking, but I think the track files will help me a lot with planing. Greatly appreciate the work done on the GPT manual !.

*'''Tim''' : We are a couple from Germany and around new year we plan to spend a few weeks in the area around GPT05 to GTP07. If possible we might return some time to see southern patagonia as well for multiple months.

*'''Léo''' : I plan to travel one year in Chile from sept 2021 ; I want to start from Puertomontt to reach Santiago (in a whole year, so taking my time), and hike some sections of the GPT ! I have not chosen which exacts sections yet.

*'''Nadfero''': Mi plan is to divide the route in two or three sections, and hike it in the 2021-2022-2023 summers. Obviously it all depends on the covid situation. There is no harm in planning!

*'''Cristóbal''': Estoy aprovechando la cuarentena para estudiar la ruta y comenzar a hacer tramos en la medida que se levanten las restricciones sanitarias este 2021 y 2022.

*'''Jo and Ty''': We are a couple planning to trekk for 3 months or so on the GPT. 2021/2022 depends on Covid 19 situation. Propably starting somewhere at GPT08. We are still in the beginning of planning. We require the track files for a lot of planning and for navigating on the trek it self. We are pretty excited!

*'''Molly og Melissa''': We are two friends, from Denmark. We plan to hike most parts of group B, C and D in December 2021 - February 2022

*'''Patagonico''': Years ago i did the ruta de los pioneros now i would like to complete the GPT in the next few years.

*'''Les Amériques au fil de l'eau''': We are a french couple, planning to use the trail from Puerto Montt to Santiago in 2021-2022 and to realize two short documentary films about wetlands and about the women of America
*'''O Bicho Geográfico''': Para fines de investigación científica, Abril de 2021.
*'''Max Nemeth''': November to Mid-March 21/22, sections to be determined. Thank you for the amazing work on this route!
*'''Memo mcrash''': GPT10 and GPT11. I plan to do it in March with some friends. We are very grateful for the work you have done. Thank you! Guillermo.
*'''nico142857''': GPT01 and GPT02. Im planning to hike these 2 sections on March, and gpx's routes surely will help a lot. Thanks!
*'''MauricioDM''': I am planning to hike the whole trail in parts, but I am not sure where to begin, the GPX will help . Thanks.
*'''Nico busch''': GPT33H. Planning on doing the Torres del Avellano hike. Thanks.
*'''Bjornsether''': GPT 01 to 40. I've been planning a long-distance hike in Chile for some time. February-April 2021 might allow me to spend time on the GPT.
*'''AJForno''':, GPT 01 to 40, I live in Chile and have done some sections, and plan to keep exploring, Thank you! Andres
*'''Thom&Miky''': Hi, we are two friends planning to walk from febrary to april 2021 and we will try to reach from south to north the GPT 14 to GPT 01. Thank you! Thomas and Michael

*'''WhatDoesMyHeartTellMe''': I am very much interested in GPT 01 to 40. I plan to trek in 2021-2022. This endeavor requires a tremendous amount of planning. I hope you can grant me the track files. Thanks very much!

*'''Tom Corbett''': Januray 2021, hiking and packrafting sections of GPT 26 to GPT 33.

*'''Rperezdearce ''': Hi, With my girlfriend we will leave the first days of Nov 2020 from Santiago with the intention of reaching GPT12, then we will try to continue further south.

*'''Tobi & Fang''': Hiking and potentially packrafting in the <s>2021/2022, 2022/2023</s> 2023/2024 season.

*'''Freek van Keulen (Freek)''': Plan to hike 2021-2022 season, starting preparations and research now

*'''Joaquin Munoz (jqnmunozdiaz)''': Plan to hike sections GPT32-40 southbound on summer 2020-2021 if covid allows. I will likely hike some northern sections as well.

*'''Quamen''': I am dreaming to hike the GPT01-16 and to hiking/packrafting GPT17-40 southbound this austral summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Frambues''': Starting at the end of 2020 if Covid lets. Not sure yet which part to do in one season, but probably start in Santiago.

*'''Ferdinand''': Hi, Ferdinand from germany, I'd like to hike southbound starting from GPT 05 from Dec 2020 - Apr 2021 and see how far I can get. The GPS files would help a lot planning everything more in detail, thanks!

*'''Víctor Valenzuela''': GTP 05-19: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 05-19 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Isaac Garza (Try431)''': Planning to hike southbound GPT season from ~December 2020 through ~March/April 2021 (weather/COVID permitting). At the moment, planning to do GPT17P - GPT39, and track files will be very helpful in planning out in more detail :)

*'''Pipers''': Hi, I'm from Valdivia, chile, and I am planning to hike or ride in my bike the closest parts of the route, as soon as coronavirus lockdown finishes

*'''Patagoniandreams''': Planning to hike the standard route soundbound, starting at GPT10 until GPT23 and looping back nordbound via the Huella Andina. Due to the Corona crisis we postpone this endeavour to the 2021-2022 season. The hike will be done in family. We will have a 6 year old girl and a 3 year old boy with us. We have 4 months. We have been doing GPT sections back in 2008 - 2010 - 2013.

*'''Olivier1''': Planning to hike the standard route northbound, starting at GPT 40 for the 2021-2022 season.

*'''David Brophy (d.brophy)''': Planning to hike the standard route GPT01-GPT40 over two seasons starting as soon as COVID permits. Will use a pack-raft for the second season.

*'''Peter Mican (ElCondor)''': Planning to hike the GPT in 2020/2021, starting at section 01 and hike as far south as I can, depending on the weather and situations on the track. I am planning to go solo but would be happy to join with a fellow hiker(s) ;-)

*'''jojohoughton''': Planning on hiking/packrafting southbound to section 40, starting either from section 1 or section 13 depending on the conditions. Will be exploring the GPT for the summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Leonhard''': GTP 1-16: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 1-16 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Aligator''': GTP 40 to GPT32: Plannning to explore that part of the GPT in February (from 03/02) and March (flexible) with my girlfriend (we both live in Santiago). Thank you for the incredible work you've achieved gathering and updating all those information!

*'''ConnyPflaume''': GTP 14 & 15 or the area between lago Conguillo and Lago Tinquilco. We will start this weekend, 11.1.20 - would be nice we could be supplied with the map so shorthanded.

*'''felixrulz''': Will be in the Andes for around 4 months. Have already completed 3 sections, but looking to do more. Joined specifically for the Puyehue section (GPT 19)

*'''Kelly Swanson''': I plan to solo trek starting at GPT06 in January 2020, continuing till mid March.

*'''phil ro''': i will start in coihayque in mid-january and will head south for more than 4 weeks with a packraft.

*'''johannsteffen''': Going to make a backpack trip starting in February on Ushuaya and going to Bariloche in June.

*'''Claudio Miranda''': Starting from Santiago in January 2020 until April, planing to arrive at least to Chile Chico.

*'''Trinity''': Travelling to SA for 2 years and plan exploring Patagonia.

*'''pirre''': Starting in January 2020 on GPT32 and planning to hike south for 6-8 weeks. Thanks!

*'''Shn0rhelez''': Hi,I am Anton from Sofia,Bulgaria...me and my girlfriend are starting from sec6 in the middle of January...we have around four months...thank you for your remarkable work!!!

*'''Gatodelmonte''': Starting on 2 January from Santiago, planning to hike South for about 45 days & exit near Pucon (sections 1 to 15)

*'''Fedepatagon''': Like to pack raft on the area between Bariloche-Osorno and P.N Los Alerces

*'''Vincent Paquet''': My girlfriend and I are planning to spend 3 weeks walking from december 18 2019 to Jan 10 2020. We're still selecting the exact sections. Cheers!!

*'''Tmattson425''': Plan for this year is to solo trek sections 1 through 19 (southbound) starting in mid-January 2020. I'm an American expat living in Buenos Aires and plan on returning in following seasons to complete the GPT, try packrafting, and explore alternate routes. Extremely excited an grateful that this trek is possible. Thank you!

*'''SalomeS''': Planning for a 6 month trip with my husband starting in Nov/Dec 2020. Planning to hike the sections 40 to 16. We would be incredibly grateful to receive the gps track files. Thank you!

*'''Ianhikes'''* Leaving for Chile in 1 week and looking to spend a month on GPT hiking southbound.

*'''zc0rp10''': Hi! Planning and preparing for an extended hike together with two friends from November 2020 - Feb 2021.

*'''ELLI''': together with a friend we plan to hike the sections of the main route but in opposite direction starting in the area around Lago viedma in first days of January 2020, we have approx. 4 month time

*'''gorskial''': plan to bike/packraft along the carretera austral from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins with hiking side trips. Jan/feb 2020

*'''pitney''': Solo hiking GPT sections 6-22 Southbound beginning early January, 2020.

*'''dirtmonger''': GPT sections 1-24; planning underway for an immersion solo hike ‘20 November to ‘21 February.

*'''bob451''': Planning on solo hiking 2 or 3 sections of the GPT northbound March/April 2019.

*'''Mgabenesch''' : Planning on hiking most parts of the GPT, starting in Ushuaïa then going North. I have on year off. Starting Dec 2019

*'''Family Size''': Planning on hiking parts of the GPT southbound. Starting end of November 2019.

*'''shaunchurch''': Hope to solo hike/packraft a few sections southbound. Section 15 or 17 in Dec 2019. Then maybe a couple more from among sections 21-31 in Jan and Feb 2020.

*'''iank''':2 months jan and feb 2020. Hope to hike isla navarino, cirque of huemuls and then cochrane to chile chico. More northerly secions maybe 2021.

*'''dsmit3000''': Solo hiker planning on hiking GPT40-31 northbound November-January 2019.

*'''2As''': We plan to walk in Chile and Argentina from mid October 2019 to mid march 2020. We don't have precisely planned our trip but the root of our trip is to go by foot through Patagonia and also discover Chile and his people and culture.
*'''A pat''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT (Need to confirm but we are interesting in sections 08-22 and 35- 40) from January to early March 2020.
*'''Aceestrin''': We'll be exploring for 4 weeks in Los Lagos region December-January.
*'''Andrealopezb''': I plan on doing individual sections for the time being, mostly between Santiago-El Maule
*'''annbrnn''': Heya, a friend and I are planning on hiking several sections of the GPT beginning end of December 2019 and are currently in the process of determining our route.
*'''AlexEdge''': Hi, i am planning to hike the lower sections of this route with a couple friends, possibly febuary 2020. thank you!
*'''Arno507''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting fom November/December 2019 till early April 2020.
*'''Birdy ''': I plan to mostly walk from Lake Titicaca to Ushuaia starting November 2019.
*'''David''': Hello!! This is David from Barcelona and I'm planning to walk through the Patagonia for 4 month from January 2020. I would love to do all de GPT, but I'm not sure if it's too ambitious... For sure, I'll try it!! :-) I would really appreciate if you can provide me the gps track files. Many thanks!!
*'''Dubrovskiy''': 2 people, January 2020, Foot hiking southern parts, likely around GPT40-33.
*'''Edwinb''': I will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to cherry pick parts of the GPT and mix it with other trekking, basically like I did last year. Always interested in a bit of exploring, providing it doesn't get to extreme!
*'''Hendrik Niehaus''': We arrive in Chile early Oktober 2019. From November until January we plan to be on the GPT. Due to the recommendations of the hikers manual we are mainly interested in section 5-16. However, plans might still change and are not too fixed yet. Thank you in advance!
*'''Herman van Horssen''': We plan to do section 47 to 69 of the GPT in 2020.
*'''johansonst333''': Hi! I am planning the sections 30 - 40 during this hiking season, would be incredibly grateful to have the GPS files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!
*'''Jose Barros''' Hello !Im jose from Santiago de Chile, i will do the sections from Conquillio national park to Puyehue national park, its aprox. 15 days in January, i think it will be great ! If you can provide the track files i will be very thankfull.
*'''Jose Roman''': Hi, my plan is to several sections by bike or hiking staring September 2019 until Abril 2020.
*'''JUNHUI SON''': Hi, I'm from South Korea, I plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in September 2019 till November.
*'''Kendon''': I cycled Patagonia many year ago and have always wanted to return for an extended walk through this wonderful area. I am in preliminary stages of my planning and thank you for your efforts in providing such a great resource. I am looking at the 2020 summer.
*'''Martín H.I.''': Hello, I´m planning to make an attempt to hike from sections GPT01 to GPT22 this summer from December 2019 to February 2020, still deciding on the exact sections, but southbound is my direction. I´m a chilean 25 year old architect who will humbly try to hike this unique trail. Thank you Jan for the amazing creation.
*'''Martin Lizondo''': I will be hiking southbound from Anticura (GPT20) to El Chaltén (GPT39), between December 2019 and February 2020. It's my second season in the GPT, after hiking from Santiago (GPT01) to Anticura (GPT19) in 2018-2019.
*'''martinahaller''': We will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to hike parts of the GPT during the next 6 Month, starting in Santiago.
*'''Maturin''': Hi, I am currently figuring out the details to hike GPT06 to GPT08 from the 27th of December 2019 until mid January. I will be doing the Horseriding tour before. I speak fluent spanish and the idea is to go southbound. Thank you!
*'''Matúš Lašan''': We plan to do as much as possible from December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''msantelli''': Hi, Melissa, plan to trek sections 05-22 taking a chance to start mid-late Nov. of ‘19 may need to backtrack and cut a few sections out, if rivers can’t be ford/crossed-flexible schedule
*'''Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck''': We plan to investigate new packrafting and hiking routes in more remote areas between Puerto Montt and El Chalten without making a single long traverse (GPT21 to GPT40, GPT90P to GPT 92P). We will depart in November 2019 and plan to finish in February 2020. Experienced packrafts may join us for these investigations.
*'''Lauric Olrik''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting from November 2019, we have a whole year off.
*'''Lea Geibel''': Hi, my plan is to do several sections of the GPT starting fom October/November 2019 until beginning of January 2020 and need to figure out which ones are suitable for such an early start.
*'''Linda''': Hi, I am planning to hike alone southbound the GPT from beginning of December 2019 to mid-February 2020, probably from GPT06 to GPT22, but I am still studying the routes and the sections. I spoke quite good spanish, at least, it will come back there, practicing ! Thank you !
*'''Oreste Marquis''': Hello, i'm planning to hike sections 06-22 and 32-40 if time allows it. My trip will be from January to Abril 2020.
*'''Sanita Heinz''': We plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''Selma''': We are planning to packraft some sections of the GPT during our stay in Nov/Dez '19
*'''Staci Garcia''': Hello, I am planning on doing several sections of the GPT in 2020. I am still in research on what sections.
*'''TrashPanda''': Hi, we plan to do several sections from the end of November 2019 till February 2020.
*'''tom347''': Hola, I plan to do part of parts 1 to 40 with a friend, starting mid october. We will be hitchhiking the parts that are not recomended in particular months. We will be travelling for aproximately 2 months. Gracias.
*'''Tombartlett''': Hello I am planning on hiking many sections over a three month period from November 2019 to February 2020.
*'''Wanderwood18 ''': We plan to make it to El Chalten/Fitz Roy in one season from Santiago. This means I’ll probably skip recommended sections to skip/do what I need to do to make it. I’m flexible, we will see how it goes. My girlfriend, America, and I are planning on starting around Nov. 10th….
*'''LieberWeiter''' Hi, I do not know yet if I ever dare to walk the GPT but meanwhile I would like to plan therefore!
*'''Jarek Wątroba''' Hey, I will spend several months in Patagonia starting in Jan 2024. The information you provided in the Hiker's Guide is already immensely helpful, but the track files would make planning our route so much easier. Thanks.
*'''Wolke7net''' Hi, could you please send me the track without packrafting. Thanks!

*'''''DoloresMonika''''' Hi,my name is Dorota and I am from Poland. I ahve a plan to start from Santiago de Chile at 1 of December 2024. I can pass 4.5 months on the trail . Thanks for preparing this manual and description of trail.
*'''''Randomuser''''' Hi, my name is Victor and my wife and I are planning on spending 3 months in Patagonia starting Jan 25. We are planning on picking some sections to explore and will focus on the land portions, thanks!

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