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GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-04-14T07:32:44Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina tostada) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to resupply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money exchange), by the border control. Another one just in front.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final ridge to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek below the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp.

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2026-04-14T07:29:38Z

OriolGirona:

GPT08 (Volcan Chillan)

2026-04-14T07:24:13Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''</nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span><nowiki>'''</span></nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT 8 + 9 | 12/22-12/27 | 6 Days | 08 Option 2A, RR, Variant E, 08 Option 7, 7B, RR, 09 RR, Variant B, Variant C, RR, 09 Option 4, Variant G, RR '''

Wow a mouthful.
Started from Las Trancas after waiting out bad weather. Met some dudes at Camping Los Peucos, gifted me a fishing rod (does anyone have info on permit situations?)
Explored Option 7 along Rio Polcura, definitely some bushwhacking along the trail, but there is a trail, just really overgrown. Beautiful river.
7B is just minor road.
Christmas in Abanico. Stayed at camping 1km out of town. 10k CLP for night, can have fire, bathrooms. Shop was open, ate 5 hotdogs.
Call (+56971304096) for a ride out of Abanico, or wherever. Very nice guy, charges 1k CLP per Kilometer. Was 9k to start of trailhead, even waited while I paid CONAF.
Climb up Sendero Sería Velluda was calm, but CC was kinda tough. Bad winds at pass, and rest of day. Opted to follow Valley Route to avoid bad winds, very beautiful.
Rejoined RR for final descent, though was kinda sketchy at points. Nothing too bad.
Here in Trapa Trapa, nothing is open unfortunately.

'''2026 February 25 to March 4 / 5.5 days + 2 rest days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2A, RR (+variant F), OH-4 (+variants A and C) / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT 08 from Termas Chillan (4 days) with GPT 09 (1.5 days), plus 2 rest days due to bad weather (hosted in a Puesto at 08-04A, turned to be the highlight of this section)

Bus from Chillan at 2pm (final stop, same place as Emily quoted previously), Camp after ford 08-2A (1.6/2097). Hot river with nice 'pools'.

Los Peucos. Recommended. Rangers were there (if sprinklers are open, they are around). Just to clarify previous post, a sign in termales says 'prohibido aseo personal' so no soaps or shampoo there, but allowed to use termales anytime.

Section 08-04 ends at section 09 (RR km 29) that I followed.

Fords were straightforward, trails easy to follow. No horseflies (and almost no cows).

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5 (note: this is my first section in GPT)

'''2026-Feb-5 to 2026-Feb-8 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2A, RR, Variants C and F, OH-4, OH-4C / Emily'''

I combined GPT8 and 9, from Termas de Chillan to Trapa Trapa. I joined GPT9 at ~29.2km (intersection with 08-04) at midday of Day 4 (4.5 days total).

Highlights were Los Peucos termas and Option 4, particularly the ridge and final 10km coming into GPT9. Challenges included occasional BB to avoid agitated cows. Attractiveness - 4/5, Difficulty, 2/5.

Camps
Night 1: Los Peucos (64.2/1191).

Night 2: -37.216593, -71.304660. Flat, gravel (lumpy), no protection. Great view. Water at lake or stream 150m along RR.

Night 3: -37.375702, -71.254774. Flat, sandy, no protection. Water available at previous river (~800m before).

* Several campsites on OH-2A just after ford 08-2A (1.6/2097) (rock hop) and following unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin (quite hot). These are on gravel, but away from the herd of cows that were hanging around the camp at 42.6/2087.
* No issues with fords. Ford at 48.7/1334 was only crotch height for entry (165cm), and after a couple steps became shallower, below the knee.
* Highly recommend stopping or camping at Los Peucos. I camped next to a small sheltered hut with a table, benches, fire pit and metal grill. Termas were great and clean. Site was as described in previous 25/26 reports; closed, no ranger/fee, but seemingly okay to camp. Only one other group of equestrian tourists there.
* I found Kris and Stinna’s report below really helpful for OH-4 - thank you! The lake level for Laguna del Laja is now a lot lower; I was able to skirt the coast for the entirety of the first 12.5km, and was able to cross at Option 4C where marked and without fording. If you fancy a swim, I recommend jumping in within the first 10km of Option 4; thereafter the water is murkier/looked less inviting.

Transport: I caught the bus to Terma de Chillan as per the schedule posted by Volker below, 3.900clp. The final stop (-36.91088, -71.42120), is 2km from the OH-2A trailhead. I was fortunate to stay for free at the staff accomm of a girl I met on the bus - accomm is otherwise very expensive and I couldn’t see any good stealth camp spots.

* '''GPT08 | 2026-01-04 to 2026-01-09 I 5,5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant F - RR - Variant G - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1:
I hitchhiked from San Fabián and was very lucky. Some people took me to the waypoint where the trail to Salto Las Minas starts. I started after midday with the hike and crossed Río Ñuble about 1.5 km upstream from the RR ford (-36.843437, -71.236798). The crossing was easy, water up to knee height.
I completely avoided bushbashing by crossing Estero El Quebrado at -36.856431, -71.275622, where there is a trail. I returned to the RR at -36.858428, -71.279562, as suggested by Martin (thanks!).
Camp: -36.865234, -71.290436. Dusty place, water about 150 m away.

Day 2:
The hot spring [40.6/2173] was excellent. I had lunch there and took a long bath. Crossing Río Diguillín was easy, but water reached waist height. There are probably better crossing points.
Camp: -36.963371, -71.397603, next to the river.

Day 3:
I hiked to Termas Los Peucos and arrived around midday. Two groups of men with horses were there. They told me the place has been abandoned for some time, but camping and using the hot pools is no problem. Later they left, and I had the whole place to myself.
Camped at the Los Peucos campsite.

Day 4:
All river crossings were easy. The worst part was the horseflies. From midday until evening, they were constantly around me.
Camp: -37.15623, -71.319804, grassy spot, many horseflies.

Day 5:
I had a very nice lunch break and swim at Laguna El Roble. When I reached the mountain pass, I noticed a thunderstorm approaching from behind. I was on the ridge with no option to descend quickly. I waited about two hours under bushes for protection until the storm passed.
Camp: -37.233919, -71.402365. Nice grassy spot, water a bit away.

Day 6:
I hiked down to Central El Toro and had lunch at Río Polcura. After that, I followed a long minor road to the point Bus {08-J} [2.9/734], from where I hitchhiked to Antuco.
Accommodation: Cabañas Puelche

'''2025-12-23 to 2025-12-26 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 and 04a / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Hitchhiked from San Fabian to Los Sauce, after 3 hours of waiting and many false alarms (people only going a few kilometers outside of San Fabian) I struck gold. Joseph and Mattias stopped, they where going to the Saltos Las Minas waterfal and drove me all the way, thereby I could avoid horsefly highway and some unnecessary road walking.

There is a new gate here [ 36.819694, 71.253476] that clearly says private property, no passing allowed. Luckily, I’m a good climber.

Fording at {08} [23.8 / 950] was waist deep (I’m 180 cm), not overly rapid and footing was good. Easy if you know how to ford properly. You can also probably find better places to ford.

The bush bashing at the ~28 km is mostly not bush bashing, largely there is a good trail, and the small section that actually is bush bashing can easily be avoided as there runs a trail on the opposite side of the river, I forded here [36.856910, 71.276356] but you should ford about 100 meters downstream or so, just follow the trail. I then walked the trail on the other side of the river, forded again here [36.858428, 71.279562], again follow the trail, and connected back to the regular route. I recommend rerouting the route for next year based on my GPS recording.

The hot spring (or hot river) at [40.6/2173] was absolutely amazing. Make sure to stop there.

Additionally there is a new bridge built over Rio Nuble a bit upstream at [36.744770, 71.249650] if you do not want to ford, follow the minor road.

Day 02

Walked to Camping Los Peucos, not open yet, but there was a car there, the sprinkler and some lights where on. I called out but no one answered. I did not risk bathing in the hot springs as it clearly said it was prohibited.

I continued walking. From the [-37.06515, -71.40995] marker the route should be redesignated as trail, there are remnants of a road but completely overgrown and clearly not used anymore. Redesignate to [-37.06886, -71.39601] from there I took variant F. Highly recommend var F, nice animal trail to follow and the ford was easy.

From the trailhead {08} [80.2/1248] the trail is starting to become very overgrown all the way up to the pass. Still easy to follow though as there never is any alternatives. I camped at Camp {08} [87.4 / 1514]. It is flat and ok ground to pitch poles in, but very dusty and your tent will become dirty.

Day 03

Connected to Option 4 running east of Lake Laja. Nice options scenic wise, but absolutely swarming with horseflies. I killed hundreds of those godforsaken creatures. Until starting the climb you mostly walk on stone fields close to the shoreline.

Starting the climb there runs an animal track you can follow. Do not be fooled believing that the high elevation will save you from the horseflies, because it won’t.

Having made the climb I walked a bit on the ridge to see the views before turning back to Option 04a as I was out of water. Option 04a is a nice trail, very easy to walk. You will start to see traces of car tracks after a while and at [37.323878, 71.223060] you are in no doubt walking on a minor road (redesignate the track files) which runs clearly until [-37.40963, -71.27578] at which it comes more diffuse.

In the evening I suffered severe full leg cramp in both legs and crawled my way to [37.367707, 71.250348] where I made my worst tent pitch ever, prayed a silent prayer for a still night and went to sleep. Not the best campsite but there is water nearby.

Two Puestos not in the track files [37.329803, 71.222082] and [37.363379, 71.247417] along option 04a.

Day 04

Awoke feeling like shit, I’m in no doubt very sick. I laid in the tent until it became too hot, at which my only option was to continue hiking. Hiked with little pace and grace the rest of Option 04 and continued on GPT09. I eventually started feeling slightly better and continued onto GPT 10, and most likely further but that has not happened yet.

'''GPT08/2025-12-12 to 2025-12-17/ 5,5 days/ SOBO/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
After two nights in San Fabian in Cabañas Nativa we hitchhiked to El Inglés because the bus goes there once a day at 18:00 (not sure if weekends), it took us 3,5 hours. Shop there has some basic food. Then we hiked to Rio Ñuble, the ford was not the easiest but possible one by one, we slept close to river. Bush at 28,7 was a bit challenging but not too long, we had foggy weather that day, didn’t see more than 20 meters ahead. That day we hiked close to Vulcan Chillán but didn’t see anything because of fog and clouds. Hot river after pass is amazing.
He had breakfast at Camping Los Peucos, it is still close no one there but we didn’t sleep there just chilled in Thermas. The view at the ridge after Laguna El Roble is great, would be worth to camp there, there are some spots for camp. Last night we slept at kilometer 120 next to the road in the bushes, until this moment we didn’t see anyone from power plant. Because we didn’t wanna come to Abanico too late. In the morning on the last day we didn’t have an issue to get to Abanico. Nice resupply shops there.

Attractiveness 5/5 (even we didn’t see Vulcan Chillán)
Difficulty 3/5

*''' 2025.04.12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 2A + RR + Var F + Var G + Opt 4 (Ruta Este) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

Day 1 - Option 2A from Termas de Chillán. We started in Santiago taking 8:00 bus to Chillán and after 7h of bus rides we got to the start of the trail a bit after 16:00.
You have to go to a different bus station for the rural buses, bus schedule posted by Volker in earlier comments.

As it was already getting late we didn’t go down to fumaroles and took the higher trail unmarked as a variant but is on the map. A few easy snow patches on the way up. There is also and unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin around here (-36.90740, -71.37185) however we crossed it a bit higher up, late in the afternoon the water was really murky and fast flowing but just below the knee, easy, we are 184cm and 175cm. After that we took the trail that is on the map but is also not marked as a variant and follows the river which is not named but starts from the pass higher up. We forded it here (-36.91003, -71.36669) and camped pretty much right after it on a flat spot. The marked Camp {08} [42.6/2087] was nice looking from a distance but was actually on a wet ground. Great views of the Volcán Chillán Viejo, calm night.

Day 2 - Since many people recommended to visit Camping Los Peucos that was our goal for the day. The first “Ford {08} [47.7/1390]” of Rio Diguillín on RR was easier, the river was clear now and the water level was just below the knee. The second “Ford {08} [48.7/1334]” was a bit more challenging and the water was about waist deep. We managed to cross it individually. Tabanos (horseflies) wanted to introduce themselves relentlessly and pretty much became the theme of this section. Regardless of how many you “get rid off” same amount appears a few minutes later, like some sort of dark magic.
Camping Los Peucos was unfortunately still closed but there were other equestrian tourists camping there and no signs forbidding it, so we camped there anyway. The termas were really nice though the big one in the middle was way too hot to even stand in it. Luckily there were plenty of others to choose from, we really enjoyed a relaxing evening soaking ourselves in the termas.

Day 3 - Easy first half of the day mostly walking along the minor dirt roads. Fords on Rio Los Peucos very easy, shin deep. We took the Variant F and it was easy to follow and seemed well trodden the unmarked ford of Rio Polcura at (-37.06842, -71.39166) was really wide and just above ankle deep but very very cold, pain inducing.
After that the Variant F rejoins an even better traveled minor road. Two carabinieros cars passed us one stopped and asked how we are doing and where we are headed. They said if we need anything there is a police post just up the road, perhaps they meant this one “Police ? {08-H} [7.0/1357]”, however we didn’t plan taking the Variant H.
We also met 4 arieros on horses going the other way.
And we also took the Variant G staying on the minor road, I think the views were better from the road higher up rather than going trough the bushy valley.
The junction at “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” is easy to miss if you are not paying attention.
The trail seemed barely traveled and for us this was the most difficult part of the section GPT 08. From: “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” until about “Water {08} [83.2/1599]” - very steep, very hot, very thorny and overgrown - death by 1000 cuts type of trail (we were dressed inappropriately- shorts and shirts) and a lot of relentless tabanos trying to get a juicy sweaty piece of you at any cost. The water at 83.2 was a better lunch spot than the one before. Towards the “Pass {08} [84.5/1744]” once the trail entered more into forest it improved but there were a quite a few fallen trees, over the trail. It felt like if noone will maintain this trail it might disappear in the future. The trail improved going down from the pass.
A nice open valley with the first glimpses of Laguna Laja, however many cows in the valley some with young calves and there were a few bulls aswell. They weren’t agressive but very cautious and protective and we had to keep a safe distance to not provoke them.
We camped at (-37.19790, -71.31353) in the riverbed, pretty much the beginning of Option 4 (Ruta Este). Very windy evening but then the wind died and the night was completely still. We thought we avoided the cows.

Day 4 - We were woken up by about 10 cows “snorting” about 10m from our tent, not the most comfortable of the situations but it also was not our first rodeo, at least it wasn’t a one ton bull standing 2m away. We just stood our ground (kept lying in the tent) and waited for the cows to chill out which they did and eventually they moved onwards with their day and so did we.
We picked up the minor road that didn’t last for too long but we found what would have probably been a better campsite, not exactly at the coordinates but somewhere in this area (-37.21556, -71.30563). There was also some sort of abandoned small building across the road.
The minor road descended into the lake and for more or less the reminder of the coastal walk we stayed right on the coast as much as possible as there the ground was more solid underneath and we could still walk pretty fast. The lake had a lot of “terraces” on the side where the water had been at some point and sometimes to avoid obstacles or the path right on the coast disappeared we walked on those but they were soft beneath the foot and made the walking a bit more difficult. There were a few bluffs to go over but those were easy. Most of the lake side walk though CC was pretty easy and it did get a bit dull at some point.
Another potential campsite on the lake shore that we saw, approx. in this area: (-37.23748, -71.28333).

We also saw a few fishermen boats on the lake that later passed us at the distance and didn’t seem interested in us. They had their camp set up in Bahia El Colorado right before the “Ford {08-04} [12.5/1379] (Estero Colorado)” by the time we got there, we could see they were all fishing higher up the river so we didn’t talk to them.
Approximately the last km until the ford the coastal path disappears and the going gets a bit harder on a scree slope but it was because we stayed a bit too low. Higher up there was some sort of a minor road again, that came back out of the water but because the beginning of it looked a bit overgrown we didn’t take it. Later though it seemed better and we joined it but should have done it earlier.
The ford itself was fast flowing but shallow and easy.
A bit after that the day was getting hot so we took a dip in the lake and the temperature of the lake surprisingly was warmer than expected, but still invigorating.
After that we continued CC along the coast not following the gpx even though I can now see on the satellite that there was some sort of a trail higher up. We went along the coast almost all the way to the Estero Rucos and then turned up the valley towards the “Ford {08-04} [15.9/1397] (Estero los Rucos)” I don’t think that doing it this way was much slower. We forded the river a few times already lower down looking for the best way up the valley, the fords were very easy.
We had a lunch in the bushes near the ford and I believe it’s possible to find a campsite there aswell. The tabanos around here were vicious and they pretty much accompanied us all the way along the ridge walk that followed.
After that came a steep and very hot climb up to the ridge, there appeared some sort of a trail around here (-37.25442, -71.23348) but then we lost it and just aimed straight up for the trail that we could see higher up. Once we got to it it led us all the way to the ridge, though in some places we deviated from it to avoid some bushes.
The trail continued to where the Option 4A joins the Option 4 and went down in the valley. But we wanted to stay on the ridge and it was a very easy CC along the ridge with some really amazing views of Volcán Antuco, Sierra Velluda and the Laguna Laja.
There was also a very good Movistar signal here (-37.30267, -71.24928).
It got a bit harder going when the ground turned more soft under the foot walking on the loose pumice. It was challenging going up but very fun, fast and easy going down. Once we were approaching the pass (-37.36012, -71.25679) we could see trails reappearing crossing the pass and it was a well traveled path down to Estero los Timones. The moment the trail descended into the valley there was a 4x4 track going up the valley and continuing along the Option 4. We forded the little estero around here (-37.36871, -71.25077) and set the camp up right there on the slightly elevated ground on the river bed. It was nice and flat but sandy and a bit exposed to the wind. The wind luckily once again died down for the night and after a mega day I believe I had one of the best nights sleep ever.

Day 5 - In the morning we picked up the 4x4 track we saw yesterday and followed it hoping that the Option 4C would be possible to save us some unnecessary km. The option 4C was under the lake but a bit further we could see a possible crossing. We deviated from the Option 4 at around here:(-37.38999, -71.25340) to shortcut across and saved extra 5km of walking. There was a small ford in the middle of the crossing (-37.39198, -71.25376).
After that we picked up again the 4x4 track that roughly matched the Option 4.
We didn’t miss out on the opportunity to have another dip in the lake with view of the Volcán Antuco across, it was very refreshing and water felt a degree colder than yesterday in Bahia El Colorado.
After that started the loose sand section for about 10 km even though there was still a 4x4 track the ground beneath it wasn’t compacted and walking took some extra effort. Here we mostly followed what for us looked the best, not the track or the gpx. The 4x4 track went off the main Option 4 around where the Option 4D is drawn.
There were a few minor fords along the way. At the ford around here (-37.47633, -71.26346) we had lunch with some shade a bit higher up this side valley.
Our map showed that there is a trail coming down from this valley and after the lunch we picked it up just before the GPT 08 - Option 4 joins the GPT09 RR. We didn’t see any actual trail joining from the GPT09 RR.
This is where for us the GPT08 ended and GPT09 started. (Continued in section 09 log)

Option 4 - difficulty 4/5 attraction 5/5
Since most of it is CC with just occasional track or trail resemblances a lot of it on loose sand and some places steep, it gets 4/5. It wasn’t as difficult as some of the sections we have done. The views and lake swims were definitely worth it.

Section GPT08 in general - Muchos tabanos, more water than marked, good walking, great views.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- I re-route the Regular Route of GPT08 due to the right-of-way conflict at Mallin el Toro near the southern terminus of GPT08 (about 4 km north of road between Abanico and Laguna Las Lajas). The Regular Route now descents when hiking southbound to Rio Polcura and the hydro-power station El Toro. When going southbound exiting the hydro-power station El Toro is normally not an issue. When workers see you at the road you might be escorted out of the area (free car ride but connecting-footstep-hikers might cry when being driven out). Anyway, northbound hikers will need to make arrangements to be permitted entering the area going north. See the post from Manon and Robin from season 2024/2025.

- New GPT08 Option 6 (Cerro Gaston): One option to avoid the right of way conflict is this new exploration route. Satellite images suggest a vague trail or animal track up to the ridge starting either at the normally dry outlet of Laguna de las Lajas or somewhat higher up on the road after the first locked gate. Experienced hikers that don't mind scrambling in steep exposed terrain might investigate this exploration route but should turn back if this unverified draft route is unsafe.

- GPT09 and GPT08: Southbound and northbound hikers may also opt for the remote routes east of Laguna de las Lajas (GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este)). This is particular useful when combining GPT09 and GP08. When staring on GPT08 going northbound, hikers might first follow the regular route of GPT09 going southbound (around volcano Antuco) and then turn north on the remote eastern side of Laguna de las Lajas.

- Updated GPT08 Option 5 (Costa Las Lajas): Southbound hikers with enough food left may also follow the coast of Laguna de Las Lajas and ascent to the ridge on one of the 3 suggested routes. Note that route 05D is only traversable when the lake level is somewhat low (see Important Information Point GPT08-5D that provides a water level mark for decision taking). These detours promise to be quite scenic and remote combining lake access with walking high up on the ridge and avoiding the right-of-way conflict when descending on the current regular route to Rio Polcura.

- Northbound Start at Termas de Chillan: An other option for northbound hikers to avoid the right of way conflict at Mallin el Toro is starting at the Termas de Chillan halfway into section GPT08.

- Packrafting is also an option to travel along the lake shore or to cross the lake to hike on the eastern side. In this area, early mornings and late evenings are normally calm but in the afternoon wind can get dangerously strong.

==Season 2024/25==

* ''' GPT 08 - NOBO - right of way issue Mallin del Toro / Robin and Manon / Published on Facebook 2025-03-12 '''

With Manon Petit we walked GPT08 NOBO from Antuco. We had some kind of escape game in Antuco to find a solution to the right of way issue at Mallin del Toro. We were not super keen to try the ridge route from Célio Lebailly or Tobias Schorcht, as it trespassed the first gate and looked nasty from below. We talked to a local guide Jorge from Cardinal Adventure (+56 9 5848 1699, can rent material for Antuco), our host Fanny at refugio Antumapu (+56 9 9404 4771 very welcoming and nice, super cheap) and our friends Pablo and Rachel encountered in a hitchhike a few days before. All were aware of the events and did their possible to help out as it impacts tourism in Antuco. Here's what we can tell :

- there has been a serious events in December. Cyclists were confronted by the arriero and friends about some damage done apparently, then molested and their bikes were retained/robbed. Turns out one of the guy was the son of a Los Angeles judge, and there is a case open in court about the events. From there the access has been denied to anyone. We talked with Enrique Marisol the arriero (+56 9 6285 2347). Here is his answer : "Hola buenas tardes Desgraciadamente está restringido el tránsito por el interior del predio solo se permite el ingreso a los residentes,tenemos el lugar ocupado por animales en pastoreo ojalá entienda que no está permitido el paso por el interior Desgraciadamente los mismos turista han provocado en nosotros la molestia actuando de mala fe como rompiendo cercas .derribando nuestros portones dejando que nuestros animales se escapen a predios aledaños ocasionando gastos humanos logísticos y pérdida de algunos animales"

- Our friends finally found out who the dueña is, she is of a family nicknamed here "pichimosca" (small flies), known in Antuco for not being friendly and causing problems. She is the one forbidding access.

- the Antuco municipality is actively trying to resolve the situation

- Carabineros have no hold on this and advise to avoid the area

- Once the persons heard the name of the dueña, they all advised to avoid the area and not having problems with this family. The arriero Enrique is not well appreciated neither, and as far as we understood, he took part in molesting the cyclists.
Concerning options to avoid Mallin del toro

- the Rayenco central in option 6 is a private ground an permit is required to trespass. It is granted if prior permit from one of the two owners of the Campos higher up the Polcura valle.

- the two administrators are Engelbert Egger (+56 9 9239 2826) in fonde del Ciervo on the right bank. Working for an Austrian company of forestal management; and Juan Carlos Navarrete (+56 9 8514 3202) on the left bank.

- we got autorisation from Engelbert, who even picked us up in Antuco and dropped us in fonde del Ciervo. Nice guy, curious about what we're doing. Doesn't want this to be a touristic route, but seemed OK to grant permits to GPT hikers.

- he warned us about troubles with Juan Carlos. Turns out this is the same dueña as Mallin del Toro. The option 6 passes by his puesto and then veraneras before joining the ridge. Since Engelbert dropped us 14km upstream from the bridge, we crossed the Polcura there (not feasible earlier in the season I guess), backtracked on the left bank, and took an OSM route from S 37° 13.017', W 071° 25.823' to the ridge a little before the puesto. Didn't meet Juan Carlos. We joined the RR at S 37° 14.024', W 071° 23.514'.

- the local guide Jorge told us about another solution: bypass with a zodiac on the lake. Héctor Burgos (+56 9 4944 4909) has one and is willing to offer his services. Contact him beforehand as he works in the mines and needs to plan he mentioned 110 kCLP for the transfer.

- another solution is getting up the Polcura valle directly to Los Peucos. This is way shorter, and trail all the way on both banks. You'd miss the ridge, and the trouble !
Hope this is clear enough, lots of info, I'll put that in the wiki. Overall the Mallin del Toro situation should be taken seriously

*'''2025-03-27 to 2025-03-31 / 4.5 days hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + RR + OH E + OH G + OH H + own route around Puesto/ MiaimZelt'''

Day 1: Came from Talca and took the 2pm bus from Terminal Merced to Termas de Chillán. Arrived at 4:30pm and was the last one in the bus. Had to walk 1.5km on the road to reach OH 02. The trail to Pass {08-02} [2.8/2371] was easy, but very steep. No fun, i was stressed a lot because of time pressure, had only 3 hours of daylight left. Hurried down through the incredible Valle Aguas Calientes - what a pity! First hot spring was already occupied with tents. Could have camped near a hot river, but maybe not easy to reach the hot river in the dark. Therefore i continued until Camp {08} [40.4/2150]. Don't recommend this place, the evening and night was super windy, although it was less windy at the pass! Didn't dare to leave the tent to take a bath and didn't fall asleep before 3am.

Day 2: Prepared everything and took a bath in the morning. So good!! RR was wet and sometimes not visible in the valley. Improved soon. Ford {08} [47.4/1390] was below knee and fast flowing. Ford {08} [48.4/1334] was mid tigh (i'm 1.73) and fast flowing. At Puesto {08} [49.6/1423] i saw 2 simple huts: one was locked. Ford {08} [50.5/1305] was possible dry feet. Ford {08} [64.1/1164] was also possible dry feet. Went to Camping Los Peucos and met 2 guys from Conaf. They told me the Camping is now officially closed due to problems with administration. Arrived late and was allowed to stay, very nice gardaparques. I hope they reopen soon, this place is awesome.

Day 3: Short day due to weather forcast: 35l rain and 80km/h winds in the evening and night. All 4 fords at the MR were easy and low, but Ford {08} [71.3/1089] was very long. At least 5 apple trees at OH E! Sendero Los Ratones is nice, but some fallen trees. Searched for a camspot near the pass in the lenga forest. Stayed here on a not really flat place:
-37.128033, -71.3195. Indeed tons of rain after 8pm.

Day 4: Started late at 10am, when rain stopped. Again some fallen trees. Soon i found better and bigger places to camp in the forest, the altitude-lines didn't let me expect this. No more dust! Trail until Laguna Roble was nice and beautiful. Below Laguna Roble i found a rabbit caught in a wire loop. I freed the poor animal, 100m further i saw a dead rabbit in another wire loop. Both campspots at Laguna Roble are nice and well protected in case if bad weather.
Was lucky to climb to Pass {08} [100.6/2035] (El Encanto) on a cool day. Great views from the ridge! Also nice trail. After X {08} [105.4/1934] 200m CC. Camp {08} [106.6/1938] isn't flat. Followed the wrong trail and continued CC at the same altitude until i reached the RR again. Took OH G to get to Laguna Hermosa. Easy CC. Didn’t like the camp at the beach, not good in case of unstable weather. Stayed here: -37.27434, -71.383359 a bit further up. 100m below there is a well sheltered spot between bushes. Started snowing after i pitched the tent. Very cold night.

Day 5: Sunny day, but cold and some snow at the mountains. The following km at the ridge were a bit difficult due to snow and ice. Snow covered the trail and made it difficult to follow. Fortunately i saw animal footprints - wild animals appriciate our trails! Took OH H, there is a nice trail. The beginning of the descent was very steep and still frozen. Improved in the forest. Met two Arrieros with horses and 4 aggressive dogs. Wanted to sneak around Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] to avoid right-of-way issue. First try was a fail - the vegetation was way too dense. Here -37.347131, -71.391773 i could follow an animal trail, which leads to a big meadow. Hiked on the meadow to the MR. Only downside: i was visible from the house, nothing happened. I guess: it's possible to sneak in NoBo when walking early or late when it's dark. Nice trail near Estero El Toro. Walked on the PR and got a very friendly hitch with a chilean couple to Los Ángeles.

*''' 2025-03-14 to 2025-03-16 /3 days / HIKING/ NOBO / OH 02 + RR /Chloe and Mathieu

We tried to to take the OH06 to avoid the right of way issue but when you go Nobo you have to go through the hydroelectrical central. For that you have to go there with one of the landowner located after the central. So we followed the advice of Robin and Manon and contacted Engelbert Egger (+56992392826). He's very Kind but he wasn't in Abanico at this time so he gave us the number of an other man wo has a puesto after the central. He wasn't available as well so we decided to start from Termas de Chillan to avoid this part.

Day 1 : we started from Termas de Chillan and took the OH 02. We went up to the pass, easy trail. We went down to the agua caliente valley, very beautifull and almost all rivers are hot. There is one amazing just after the camp [37.3/2157] where you can bath.
We slept at camp 40.3 where the hot spring is so nice as well.

Day 2: we went up to the pass 39.1 quite sandy but the ascent is short. When we went down we lost the RR because we followed a more obvious trace so keep looking at the GPS. We
reached RR again and followed the route until pass 33.2. Then we went down to the valley of estero Quebrado. At camp 29.5 we lost the track and ended in bamboo fight, so stay to the right side of the estero and it will be fine.
We reached Rio Ñuble and crossed it preatty easily at the exact point on Locus because rivers are lower at this time of the year. We camped here S 36° 48.882', W 071° 15.278' but the camp 20.3 is fine also. The other places are protected by fences and big signs are saying that camping is prohibited.
Day 3: we walked all the way to Puente Engles and found a lift to go to San Fabian de Alico. We slept at the Jahuel camping (15min from center and 8000p/p) nice restaurant : Zambie I Canuta.
Took the bus next morning at 6:20AM to Chillan.

*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-03-02 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Eric and Jakob'''

Route:
We sticked to the main route the whole time. !!!We had problems at the end of the main Route. Its best to use Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid right of ways issue.!!!

Travel:
At this section our trip ended that’s why we hitchhiked to Antuco and even though it was Sunday we were able to buy a ticket for a nightbus directly from Antuco to Santiago. The bus left at 22:15 and arrived at 05:30 the following day costing the two of us 54 euros.

Permissions:
In the beginning is a gate a little bit before the marked gate at kilometre 22.8. The gate has signes on it stating that everything is private property and nobody is allowed to enter. The land is owned by a really nice man called Juan. His phone number is +56973133339. He is carrying his phone all the time so just give him a call before entering. He was really friendly to us and gave us immediate permission to cross his territory.
When entering Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja don’t worry about getting a permission to continue hiking. We went to the Park Ranger at km 63.9 and he told us that no permission is needed to cross the national park.
!!!The landowner at km 120.6 doesn’t let any hiker pass! No matter whether hiking SOBO or NOBO. There is also no way to get a permission. That’s why we highly recommend taking the Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid these problems. He is a really straightforward person who makes you turn around no matter of how much water or food you still have left.!!!
 Resupply:
No shops on the whole trail.

Attractiveness: 4-5/5
Difficulty: 4/5

*'''GPT 08 / 2025-02-13 to 2025-02-07/ 7 days / NOBO / Mara & Tobias*'''

short: Avoided the right of way conflict at Puesto {08} [121.6/1513] by taking the ridge (difficulty 6). Water {08} [107.7/1951] is almost dried out. Aggressive cows in the valley close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449].

Day 1: startet at Gate {08} [126.2/1339] at 12:30 and met Enrico there, who told us to not pass. After chatting a bit with him he told us to wait 20 minutes, until he left with the car and go for the ridge. So we entered after a while, went up the road and found water at -37.35773, -71.38068. From the satellite images variant A (photo) looked ok, but in real live seemed to be a bad idea. So we went for variant B, which took us 3 hours. Very steep, loose rocks, one part with climbing (difficulty 2). With the food for 7 days in the backpack not a joy 😂. While we were climbing up, we saw 3 cars passing the road. So be aware when you sneak in. Camped at laguna los Cóndores. Perfect Spot!

Day 2: walked to Camp {08} [107.6/1938]. The marked spot should be shifted up to 37.24611 -71.39138 the shoulder right before (NOBO). Met Adrian, Julian and Valentin there who camped SOBO and camped beside us. Had nice conversations. Adrian warned us about the aggressive cows next day.

Day 3: Went to Camp {08} [88.1/1514] and met Clara on the way. Cows close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449] showed an aggressive behaviour. Maybe it was the herd who were hunting the boys the day before. We had to do a 20 minutes detour up the valley to keep distance.

Day 4: Went to camping Los Peucos and enjoyed the hot water.

Day 5-7: walked to Puente Inglés without difficulties. Crossed Río Nuble with dry feet on horseback’s. 2 Arrieros (Guillermo and Renato) took us on the other side. Water was not deep either.

*'''10Fev2025 - 17fec2025 / hiking SOBO / RR - OH1+new - varE - G - H - I - J / 7.5 days (with one half day at termas) / Clara'''

Left the bus to Puente El Ingles here -36,67295, -71,29201 before los sauces (as Tomáš and Natalie said), easy road to the river and dry feet crossing.
Lots of workers there, I was luckey to get a ride to El Roble after few hot MR walking km.
Carabineros are nice, just want you to register and check out you have a good gps + satellite.

Fords :
- Rio ñuble: at 10am deep and flowing fast, I didn't feel it (1.57m, alone and i'm not used to fords). I knew it would probably be like this so I took OH1 and went back RR (thanks a lot Peggy and Dorota!!). Ford at the indicated place on OH1 is easy, water to knee flowing slow at noon.

-Rio diguillin : 47.4 was easy (fast flowing but around knee). 48.4 harder (water to crotch, flowing fast), I did it few meters upper to tracks (exactly here : -36,93565, -71,40355)

Navigation :

- to avoid ford of rio ñuble : OH1 is easy with 2 nice camp spots (-36,85676, -71,22440 and -36,86615, -71,21507) and lot of streams flowing. Trail in the other direction is mainly in good conditions but sometimes disappear + cow paths make you going in bushes and loosing time (so if it can helps, this is 4 positions that I marked with my gps when I went back on the good trail just after loosing myself :
S36.852906° O071.228763° /
S36.850995° O071.230381° /
S36.844944° O071.235431° /
S36.839085° O071.245746°)

Maybe (probably), there are other easy spots earlier to ford Rio ñuble and take the trail at the opposite side, especially when it gets close to the river, but I didn't explore it at all.
And back on the other side of Rio ñuble... 3h30 later !! But I was very happy with it as it worked and was very easy.

-I found not so much bamboo fight, maybe it have been cleared by all the people passing. I avoided one taking the good trail on the other side of the river around camp 29.5. 2 additional fords but very easy. (Cross river here S36.856564° O071.75578°, and then here S36.858440° O071.279470° to go back on RR)

- CC part on the ridge after km113 is more demanding in terms of navigation and terrain. Some cairns helping (but once leed me in wrong and exposed direction). I ended up on varH without noticing but it felt good as there was less wind than directly on the ridge and a good trail.

- I had still lot's of food so I took the ridge slow and went for the lakes (thank's to Sergio advise, and food!). Var G for laguna hermosa is easy CC, 20 min down. The lake is a beautiful ++ spot to camp (or lunch/swim), I found it way nicer than Laguna El Roble ! No water flowing upper to the lake at this time but water from the lake is perfectly clear and fresh.
Var I looked nicer than RR for this steep going down.
Then var J : good trails to go to laguna El Toro and to the viewpoint of laguna los condores. Not sure if you really can go down at this one and didn't look like there is place to camp.

Camp :

- Planned to camp at Camp 20.3 but the place was not nice and no water so went to next spot not marked here -36,81470, -71,25463. (Camp 21.6 is not good too, there is a fence and private property)

- -36,85684, -71,27580. A bit before camp 29.5.

- termas 40 : very nice spot. Incredible termas !!

- camping Los Peucos : nothing to add about termas and camping. Sergio is amazing and very generous. The day after he had to do some stuff with trashes and he proposed me to come with him by car. He took me to the viewpoint of salto del blanquillo on OH3 that was nice and then left me around beginig of VarE

- camp 87.1 : nice fresh water flowing just down to the spot.

- camp 102.3 : there is actually a thin water just down, sufficient to cook and drink. The spot has an amazing view. Flat spot perfect for tent exactly here -37,21391, -71,37187. Not totally wind protected so better watch before how it's gonna be for the night !

- laguna El Toro : is not as perfect as laguna hermosa (and water is not as fresh and clear, maybe better to take water from the little stream on the path going down to the lake) but it's still a nice place to camp. Frozed in the night.

Water : 27.5 is not really good (more muddy and stagnant water). Other markers are good.

No snow.

Right of way issues :
- at puesto 120 : 5 very agressive dogs running and barking on me when I arrived. As others, the guy told me it's a private property and doesn't let people go since this season (because of trashes and fires). He was not angry and had to let me pass in this way but precise me that he won't let anyone in the opposite. Need to find an alternative way if you really want to go NOBO here, and don't approch the puesto.

- cows around km88 where not aggressive with me but not friendly type neither.

I can advise camping parque Antuco. Nice and calm place with shade and swimming pool. Homemade empanadas. Camp10k with electricity and perfect hot showers. Bernabe the owner is really nice and know about the GPT. Had really good talks with him !

* '''2025-JAN-29 to 2025-Feb-2 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Elijah & Michael

Rio Nuble remains a challenging crossing with water coming waist high at 174 cm. Trail is overgrown with Bamboo Grass up to the second pass, however improves thereafter.

Both the undeveloped termas after the second pass, as well as Los Peucos are highly recommended. Camping & rustic cabanas available at Los Puecos; as noted, Sergio is warm, welcoming, and generous with his available supplies.

El Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] informed us that we were trespassing on private property and allowed us to pass on the stipulation that we never return.

Antuco Base Camp sells hot coffee, cookies, chocolate, and at lunch, pizza. Light traffic on road to Antuco (Sunday).

(Option 1: Michael split from RR to hike this option. Second marked puesto busy & welcoming. No water available after basin before ridge walk, until Laguna el Lobo. Good views, comparable to Traversia Polcura.)

'''2024-01-16 to 2014-01-26 / 1day+10days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 1+new trail / Dorota+Peggy till los Puecos, after that Dorota'''

Very demanding stage because of Rio Nuble

1Day: I walked alone and have idea to cross the river Nuble at km 22.0 km (-36.82021, -71.25381) at first gate. Then followed river, and after puesto I found trail. My idea was destroyed for next river and also on the other side I did not see possibility to continúe. So I backtrack to camping El Ingles and joined Peggy.

Day2: We could not crossed safely Nuble. Night at km 21.6

Day3: We continued option 08-01. It was possiblity of storm so we went to puesto (08-01)[8.0/1136]. We spent here night and learned how to made sopapillas and bread. Patricia y Juan gave us a lot of food. Juan explain us that exist path on other side of river (reffering to option1) which leads to termas.

Day4: We risked to follow his innstruction and we reached the track RR. So if you would like to do this option: take variant 01, cross the river Nuble at about km 6.5 (-36.86712,-71.21317). And then not followed option 1. Instead turn right and followed path on the other side. You need to make some adicional kilometers, but it was worth of it.

Day5: we reached termas. There was nice spot with two places for tent.(-36.90435, -71.35763)

Day6: volcano Chillan using variant Natalie-Tomas. Till 2500 m nice visible path. Then sometimies. There were snowfields, only one with spikes. We met pair from Germany.

Day7: We spend a lot of time for find good place for passing river Daulagin. We have crossed 100 m down stream. I have 1.64 cm, peggy 1.60 cm. Cuarrent very strong, water to hips. I reached camping los Puecos.

Day7: Rest day at Puecos. Night at "quincho" house with place for fire. Price 15.000 clp. Ranger Sergio gave us a lot of food, breakfast and dinner. Also gas and food. He didnot like money adicional. Hot springs excepcional.

Day9: I followed trail alone. Between 82.9 and 84.2 a lot tress and sometimes trail is not visible. Night at km 88.4.

Day 10: views from the ridge were amazing. Between km 110.2 and 113.1 the trail very often is not visible. I camped at km 111. Water from snow.

Day11: There were not water till km 117. Meeting with Rodrigo at his puesto were not so bad. At the beginnig I started to apologize that I am on his territory. Night at camping Antuco in luxury cabana for 4 personas. Price 30000 clp. Owner in the evening took me to Abanico to restaurant and buying some food. Very nice place.

'''2025-Jan-20 to 2025-Jan-27 / 7 days + 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR from thermas de Chillán, Option 08-D + volcano Chillán / Chris & Julia
'''

Tldr: Final ridge is difficult (navigation & terrain), we had insane winds. Water [118.3/1733] is campable. All fords managable (2 pers, one 181cm), one a bit tricky to navigate. Option 08-D preferable. Dont miss out on Los Peucos!

Skipped due to Rio Nubles to valles de agua caliente.
Climbing volcan Chillán was a nightmare made from ashes and loose rocks. Saw condors from maybe 5m away and got blessed with amazing views. it took us in total approx. 7hrs. Many snowfields to cross and no real path, its just... very very steep.
Valle de agua caliente was very nice, but also crowded. The water is not particularly hot, but relaxing & nice during daytime. The first river that needs to be crossed to join the RR was pretty hot (almost burned my foot when crossing). We were a bit bummed, we didnt try to find a bathing spot there, away from the people and with some steam ;)
Fording Rio Diguilli approx hip high and medium current, second crossing was easier than first but hard to navigate. At the marked location is a good spot, just hard to get there as the path was swept away. We followed horse tracks, last 20m pushed through bushes, climbed down and then traced the river approx. 20-40m upstream to the marked fording and crossed there.
Los Peucos is a heaven, no shop though, so plan supplies accordingly! If lucky and he had a recent resupply run, he might sell you some food, but its not certain. Sergio is super nice & welcoming, hot pools are suuuuper relaxing! Wifi available. 15kCLP pp.
We took Option 08-D (some CC that Sergio (Los Peucos) recommended) to only cross Rio Polcura once. We crossed approx 200m downstream of the marked location where it was more narrow, less current but a bit deeper. We did this because it was easier to judge whats coming and it was belly high, but due to little current very managable. Rather a nice cool dip. We saw horse tracks exiting the trail a bit earlier to the left than the Option 08-D. Arrieros know best, i suspect this might be their trail, worth checking out!
As others mentioned before, we also took the road and not the RR parallel to the river. We saw arrieros use it on horses, but with backpacks its hard and not enjoyable.
Camp [97.8/1456] at Laguna el Roble was a dream spot. The ascend after was a dream too, 2hrs, amazing views.
Final ridge approx from the salida de emergencia ongoing was hard to navigate, challenging terrain, insane winds! Took longer than expected!
Camp [106.6/1938] looked not flat but okay, but water supply rather trickling than flowing.
We camped at not-marked location very close to Water [118.3/1733] (when the path gets muddy, after crossing the little flow from the left, little ascend and then to the right is a nice flat spot between fallen trees). The water is actually a source and had wonderful cold & fresh water flowing.

In Antuco we found through asking a shop owner a little room, hosted by nice lady Sara: 3 beds, power outlets, wifi (fast), shower (warm-ish), watercooker, microwave, clean, central (near bigmarket) for 40.000CLP per night for it all. Her Whatsapp: +56 9 8503 8261
No kitchen though.

Wonderful and diverse section! Loved every bit of it!

'''2024-Jan-02 to 2024-Jan-12 / 3 days+8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, backtrack from Rio Nubles, OH02, OH02A / Nimrod & Tamar
'''
In short - we didn't cross Rio nubles and backtracked to opt 02.
Great hot springs
An angry guy at puesto [120.6/1513]

Trail from Puente Ingles is an MR. There is a lot of worker traffic and it's easy to hitchhike.
At Camp [21.6/873] there is a fence and it's currently impossible to camp there. At the same spot there is a cable bridge. We climbed the fence and tried to cross, but the cart was on the other side of the river and we didn't see anybody.

We camped near Rio Nubles ford waypoint in order to try it early in the morning.
The current was too strong and we didn't maage to cross the river (we are 170 cm)
We decided to go upstream using option 10, cross the river, and try to go back to RR on the other side.
We crossed the river at (-36.86714, -71.21322) and started hiking south.
It was hard BB and we hiked about 1.5 km in 4 hours.
We saw the river got wide so we decided to cross it again, stop suffering, backtrack and take a bus to thermas de chillan.

We took a bus from Chillan to Termas de Chillan at 13:30 on Sunday. We walked about 1 km on the paved road and climbed to the first hot springs. There was a small not so warm pool.

2nd day - we climbed to Volcan Chillan. There was some snow but it was easy without spikes.
Slept in the amazing Valle de Agua Caliente and enjoyed a hot bath in the hot river at night.

3rd day - We planned to get to Los Peucos but decided to spend more time in the hot springs valley and started hiking at noon. The ford in [48.4/1334] was quite hard. At afternoon the water reached our belly button, current was strong, rock at bottom slippery.
We camped near ford [50.5/1305]. There was a fir pit.

4th day - we hiked to Los Peucos. Sergio the ranger accepted selling us some food (flour, eggs, cheese, pasta, tuna, pastrami). Payed 15,000 clp each for food+hot spring+camp. The hot springs were amazing! The best so far for us. You get to fill your own pool before going in so it's clean and warm! There's wifi and a place to charge as well.

5th day - we camped at (-37.10491, -71.31605) no water. Saw puma foot prints the next morning, and a research camera a little before camp.

6th day - saw Laguna de laja and volcan Antuco from afar for the first time. camped near Laguna De Roble, swem and rested in the afternoon. Beautiful place! A lot of ducks.

7th day - the path was clear most of the time and the view really nice.
We camped at (-37.178223,-71.235131) - beautiful place with a view to volcan Antuco, water from melted snow.

8th day - watch out as going down the trail to the last valley- it looks innocent, but is actually quite steep and dirt is slippery, and land is hard and painful to fall on. Had some nasty falls on our butts!
At puesto [120.6/1513] a guy named Ricardo was angry at us for entering his private property, but had no choice but let us continue down.We think he might not let NOBO hikers go up the valley.
Finally we hitchhiked to Antuco. There was a lot of traffic on Sunday.

'''2024-Dec-21 to 2024-Dec-26 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, variant E, Option 2 / Sean & Neele
'''

At the park entrance on the road they asked where we were going, once we explained we were going north to termas de chillan they asked to see the route. Wasn't a problem they just seemed curious, let us in without paying.

Puesto 120km - lots of people camping in this area on a Friday.

117km to 107km - snow present. It's manageable but slowed our progress. Around 113km is the worst of it. North of 107km some very small patches but nothing difficult.

Camp 106.6km - very wet at the moment there's a better option about 500m sobo.

Camp without water 102.3 - currently has plenty of water.

Camped at camp 87.1km - lots of horseflies

Ford 71.3km - easy at 4pm

Ford 66.4, 64.1 and 63.7km - also easy

Camping Los Puecos 63.9km - great spot hot spring was a bit too hot for us. Host was a legend; he brought us breakfast on Christmas.

Ford 48.4km - Very strong. Crossed around 5:30pm hip deep for Neele (1.61m). We took our time finding a suitable place to cross and ended up about 250m upstream from RR.

Camped at Ford 47.4km eastern side downstream there's a great camp spot with a fire ring.

Hot spring 40.4km is really amazing

We took option 2 to Termas de Chillan to avoid Rio Nuble. Some snow but really not a problem.

* ''' 2024-DEC-18 > 20 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / frontiere argentine(voir GPT07) > RR > frontiere argentine > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT07+GPT08
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : passage de rivière difficile, foret d'arbres morts, neige sur pente raide.

Le passage du Rio Nuble n'est pas facile, meme le matin. La fin du sentier avant la grande montee est vraiment difficile a suivre car peu empruntée et milieu humide avec beaucoup de vegetation. En revanche la montée est parfaitement entretenue.
La crete est un vrai plaisir, mais elle est exigente physiquement et il n'y a pas d'eau ni de sentier. Les parties sableuses sont difficile car il y a des trous sous le sable. Pour la descente vers le Rio Polcura, il suffit de suivre le sentier. La riviere est facile a passer.
Ensuite la premiere partie vers le lac est en mauvais etat meme si le chemin est bien visible. La foret est morte alors attention aux chutes de branches. La derniere crete est tres belle, mais il y a beaucoup de neige dans des endroits tres raide. Impossible a faire si la neige est glacée. La derniere descente est propre mais il y a beaucoup de moustiques dans le grand pré. La fin du dernier jour s'est faite sous un ciel menaçant, je me suis depeché de descendre pour retrouver de la chaleur et des endroits plats en cas de pluie. J'ai rejoint Los Angeles le lendemain avec 4km de marche, 5km en stop, puis en bus depuis Abanico par le bus de 8h45.
DEC-21 : Repos Los Angeles.

* ''' 2024-DEC-13 to 2024-DEC-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. E, 06, 06B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel '''

This stage is full of incredible diversity, encompassing almost everything. Epic views, challenging terrain, walking on snow, beautiful wild forests, the majestic Chillán volcano, hardened lava flows, hot springs, arrieros, a ridge trail, and, so far, the most challenging ford we’ve encountered here (see below).

We got back to the trail by hitchhiking from San Fabián in the early morning. The following section [km 2.8 to approx. 21.9] is not a trail as described in the track files, but rather a solid MR that is being worked on by laborers. The settlement at El Roble [12.7/758] is actually a police station where we checked in and provided our contact details.

The ford [23.7/950] across the Ñuble River is the biggest challenge of this section. We first attempted it in a line of three, but our tallest member, Daniel (198 cm), who was first, found the water almost up to his chest and the strong current was beginning to pull us in. We turned back. It wasn’t safe to cross. Eventually, we found a rock 100 meters upstream where the water was deeper but the riverbed was narrower. With a run-up, we jumped one by one as far as we could, and on three steps, we made it to the opposite bank. We sent our backpacks across the riverbed using a rope and carabiner.

The ascent to the saddle of the Chillán volcano is a beautiful hike, and the extensive and geologically fresh lava flow at the Trailhead [34.6/1873] is definitely worth mentioning. The crossing point is unmarked at about [35.1/1852]. Above 2150 m, everything was completely covered with snow. Spikes came in handy.

The descent to the Río Diguillín valley was okay, and we camped near the ford [48.4/1334], which is also a nice spot for a bivouac. We crossed the mentioned ford in the morning, and the water reached my waist at a height of 178 cm. It’s worth noting that the marked ford [50.5/1305] could be crossed with dry feet. The trail towards Termas los Peucos [63.9/1191] is a relatively well-defined path trodden by local arrieros. At the hot springs, which cost 7000 CLP per person, there is also a camping, but we continued further along the MR. At about [75.0/1160], we originally turned down the RR, but due to the challenging BB, we reversed our decision and continued along the MR to variant E.

From the Trailhead [80.5/1248], there is a pleasant path leading to the beautiful Laguna Laja. We camped at Camp [98.3/1459] by Laguna El Roble, where you need to slightly clear some bushes, but there is a nice spot for three tents and a fire pit. The ascent to the Pass [100.6/2035] (El Encanto) is quite pleasant due to its zigzagging path. There, we were captivated by the literally breathtaking view of the Antuco Volcano and Sierra Velluda. Unfortunately, due to an injury to one of our members' arches, we had to skip part of the ridge and finish the section using variants 06 + 06B. We deviated from the RR at point X [105.4/1934] and at Bus point {08-06B} [2.9/734], we hitchhiked to Los Angeles.

* ''' (2024/Dez/01-2024/Dec/07) 7Days/ Hiking and Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR / Lukas, Basil and Tabea '''

Entry point st puente el Ingles. The street to el Roble is beeing newly built and very easy to walk ou but also boring. The crossing of rii nuble was only manageble with packrafts, the river crossing ob foot is not possible at the moment. The mountain Pass at 39.1 km was duable but there was still a lot of snow from ca. 36.2 to ca. Ford 47.4. The hot springs were worth all the effort! The crossing at 50.5km was at the limit (for a person 170cm, over belly button). It was only possible in a line, manageble but not recommended.
Hot springs at camp 63.9 km are great. Ranger station has all the necessary commodoities, we spent an extra day there. From there on the road was well maintained until the laguna de la laja.
Packrafting before 3pm was very hard and slow due to SO wind, in the afternoon the west-wind made progress possible. Water levels are unusually high at the moment. As we were tired cold we hitch hiked with a fisher boat to the end of the lake afer ca. 14 km paddeling. exit over highway next to national park laguna del laja.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''24-11-29- 24-12-4/ 6 days / SOBO, OH02, RR, OH08F, RR, OH06/ Volker'''

A great spring hike, but not an easy one!
To avoid Rio Nubles so early in the season I took OH02 (bus from Chillan, rural station, to Valle las Trancas at 10.10 a.m. (2 buses each day go to Termas de Chillan, schedule:
https://busesrembus.cl/en/services.php)
and walked/hitchhiked the last kilometers to Termas. Started around 14:30. The snow began immediately after the hot spring at 4.8. I walked CC on the nearly untouched white coverage to the pass. The valley was almost completely under snow with some green patches. Rio Diguillin (no ford indicated): why keep feet dry, why keep anything dry? It‘s a stream at about 38 C with many whirlpools. I stayed over an hour there and camped not far: 10qm for a tent inmidst all the snow on a warm spring evening. The night and the following morning: quite cold. It was a good decision to add some 800g to my base-weight for a warm layer and gloves.

Day 2: Got up at 6.a.m and climbed with a mini-backpack CC on Volcan Chillan Viejo, at 9 a.m. on the summit, great view! In the afternoon I walked NOBO to the hot spring at 40.3 on RR. Back at the tent, it started to rain, mixed with snow.

Day 3: Started late, waiting for the weather to improve. To avoid the NOBO detour to the RR I climbed CC to join it. This was easy, the problems began on the RR. The whole trail was under snow, I had to permanently use my device to find the point of reentry into overgrown area after steep snowfields. Later less snow, but now many broken trees and branches blocked the way. No major problem, but I advanced slowly. First ford at 47.7: difficult. Second ford at 48.4: very difficult! That was no fun, strong stream over my thighs, I could dare it only, because I found a spot, where two rocks are quite close, so I had to stand the stream only for a second, before I could cramp to the next rock. The OSM here is not correct, perhaps the river has a new bed. After the puesto the trail was cleaned up/bypassing broken trees easier. I finally moved quicker. Camp at 57.0.
Day 4: Difficulties continued. Very cold in the morning, wet socks and shoes frozen; 5 fords, that are not indicated, all no major problem, but none with dry feet. The swamp before the puesto at 61.7 is bigger now (in spring?), several hundred meters of the trail under water. Again more fords than indicated, all easy, but one: water (flowing slowly) to my belly (1,97m!). The water reached to the lower part of the backpack. Didn‘t see anyone at the Los Peucos camp site. At the ford at 71.3 the water was neither very high nor very strong, but more than 100m to go the other bank! The following MR very welcome, finally allowed to move quicker. Camp on RR at around 77.5 directly on the trail.

Day 5: I took OH08F and walked the 28,6 km MR. Met several arrieros (very friendly!) and at the Embalse Vega Larga two fishermen, father and son, who „sold“ me (they didn‘t want to take
money, I insisted) two fishes, they had just grilled over a fire. Ford at the end of the MR to get back to RR: difficult. The Laguna Laja has more water than on OSM, at the spot, where the ford is indicated, one could swim to the other side, but the backpack… Camp at Laguna Laja with an extraordinary view on the mountains in the south.
Day 6: RR, trail first hardly visible, very good after the lake. On the ridge very windy, a lot of snow - but great view. On the way down the weather seemed to turn, so at 105.4 I took OH 06. The weather kept good, but nonetheless a good decision. When you are down in the valley, the trail and then the MR lead through a wonderful forest. Great spots to camp along the MR after the puesto (gate) but 100 before the Enel substation.
Day 7: Clouds at around 900 hm, good to be down in the valley. On a hot summer day, it’s probably very annoying to walk 15 km on a dusty MR - on a cool morning in spring, it was the opposite, and shortened by half, as an Enel worker gave me a ride to the exit of the hydropower area; from there 30min to the PR, then hitchhiked to Antuco for resupply and walked back into the direction of Abanico, as I found a nice cabana in Peluca (Villa Peluca, +56 9 8920 5676). 15 min. after my arrival heavy rain and storm for several hours.

*'''2024-04-12 to 2024-04-15 / 3 Days / Hiking SOBO) / RR / Alex + Andrey'''
Option from Termas de Chillan
My favorite section for autumn and a perfect weekend escape from the big city.
Difficulty: Moderate
It’s not hot and there’s almost no dust after a little rain.
The foliage of the trees turns into autumn colors!
Fords are simple.
Although Ford (easy) {08} [48.4/1334] has unusually more water for mid-April, photo attached in FB post.
Thanks to Matthias de Austria for clearing access to the stream at the west shore of Laguna Robles. It is a whole year source of fresh water before the ridge.
The Lagunillas Camping now is https://www.parqueantuco.cl/

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-28 // 4,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT E + VARIANT D // Quentin Clavel'''

After few days off at Los Angeles, I took the bus to Abanico then hitchhike until the junction between the trail and the road. I had to pay at the park ranger gate the 5K CLP for the entrance of the park (online reservation only, impossible to pay cash, and there's hardly mobile service up there, so prepare yourself by advance ☺️).

Then, you go straight up, and have stunning views over volcan Antuco and siella velluda. I had to check my GPS few times on this first part, and to change my trajectoire to stay on the RR and don't miss trailheads.

I slept at Laguna lágrima. I don't know if it comes from the water here, but I had stomach issues the following days ...

Views on this first part were absolutely wonderful !

The thermals of Los Peucos are just amazing ! Worth the stop, clean, well maintened, and with perfect temperature of water ! Sergio was so kind, he even invited me to lunch with him, that was a very nice break in this day !

Some swampy parts after the Puesto {08} [61.7/1298].

The hike up to the plateau (KM42) was physical, but it results to stunning views over the volcan chillan, and all the wonderful surroundings! There were hundreds of cows on that plateau and it was quite swampy, at the end you reach a super nice camp with incredible thermals ! Best hot springs of the GPT so far for me !

Continue to the pass and arrive in the volcanic plateau, very great too. I was too amazed by the landscape that I lost myself ! I was following a pretty clear track and missed to go on the right of the valley. I had hard time to join the RR as I tried to shortcut, but it was very demanding, sleepy and with losing rocks. Would have been better to backtrack at the junction and find again the RR, anyway...

After a way down where there's just a little overgrown part (for no more than 300m) I reached the terrible Rio Ñuble, that was (I was fortunate) easy to pass for me, at this time of the season, even with quite strong current.

From then I only met amazing people, up for a chat and full of an absolute kindness ! Carabineros first, locals, and Sandra at the microshop in puente el inglés (that was my only option for ressuply (chips, biscuits, fresh drinks, pastas) but at the middle of nothing I was happy about that !)).

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-23 / 5.5 days / SOBO / RR,E,RR,H,RR/ Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Took the bus from rural terminal in Chillán at 8am to Termas de Chillán. After option 2, I walked NOBO on the RR to the nice hot springs at 40.3, spent the day there and camped at 40.4.

Day 2- Walked the dusty trail to Camping Los Peucos. Ford at 48.4: crossed about 400 meters upstream of the waypoint for the ford. The main flow is quite strong, so I looked for a spot where it was slightly more diverted. Got to camping Los Peucos and got offered a cabin with electricity for the same price as camping as heavy rain was forecasted for the next day (10k/night). Used the wifi which is pretty good around the ranger’s cabin. Hung out in the hot springs being chatted up by a 80-yo man who didn’t seem to care whether I understood all of what he said or not.

Day 3 - 45mm rain - Rest day. The nicest campground attendant, Sergio, let me hang out in his cabin by the fire all day.

Day 4 - Walked mostly on RR but using variant E on the road as the RR trail is overgrown and the trees were soaking wet after yesterday’s downpour. Met two people in a truck that worked for the pipeline that is along that road. Didn’t see anyone else. Camped at Laguna Laja.

Day 5 - Followed the RR except for variant H. Camped at the edge of the forest before the camp waypoint 119.7/1520, didn’t find ants to be problematic. Met a group of 5 young hikers going to Laguna Los Condores right before camp.

Day 6 - Hiked RR and GPT09 option 1A to Salto de las Chicas. Got a ride quickly to Antuco, where I went to the nice supermarket and took a room in town.

* '''2024-03-11 to 2024-03-16 / 5.5 days / SOBO / OH2, RR, Variant C, RR, G, RR / Tobi & Fangwen'''

Bus to Thermas de Chillan departs 12:30 from Rural bus station in Chillan arrives around 5pm

Hot springs @ KM40.3 indeed one of the best on the GPT - nice mix of hot waterfall and cold spring in one pool. Campsite there is not sheltered from wind, and a fair bit of trash left behind. Definitely worth the small detour from Thermas de Chillan

Baños de Peucos are great for a half rest day, Sergio (caretaker) is the nicest and most welcoming host.

At Laguna El Roble, the better campsite is on the western shore - there is one flowing water source along the edge of the forest a bit north of the campsite (lake gets a bit gross end of season).

Between El Roble and Hermosa, there is cellular reception when on the western side of the ridge (Movistar).

Laguna Hermosa is nice, there is one flat and South wind sheltered campsite behind the bushes on the north side of the lake. It's nice to walk around the lake, some easy scrambling. Do expect power lines overhead.

The two hot springs, and the last ridge hike were definitely the highlights of this GPT section.

The bus leaving Albanico for Las Angeles goes at between 5-6pm -ish

Rest very straightforward, and as described below (dusty, dead horse).

* '''2024-Feb-25 to 2024-March-4 / 7.5 days / SOBO / RR B D/ Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfiels, almost no Tabanos, except in the forenoon (none in the evening) at Laguna El Roble, about 30 to 40 Tabanos in 3 hours, on 1st of March!
Mostly plenty of water, lots of unmarked streams. No water at 106.7 and at camp 119.7, dried up.

Lots of dirt roads and paths veeery dusty.

No camp at 106.6. Flat spot few hundred meters after at -37.24567,-71.39142. But no protection and no water.

Fordings: all very easy except Rio Nuble. Crossed Nuble at ford 23.7, did not scout. It was deeper then it looked and for a meter or so I (187cm, 100kg) had a little fighting with the current. It was the first somewhat serious ford in my life. Got my undies a bit washed. Forded Rio Diguillin at -36.93549, -71.40313, where I saw horsetracks on the ground. Water around kneedeep, for a half meter strong current, but I simply step over it. I marked this easy ford position with a vertical tree stump, might be there until the next storm or flooding. Ford 66.4 was possible dry foot a bit east, but go back to RR afterwards, the road on the map does not exist anymore and this area is a jungle.

At -36.94783,-71.41243 easy to miss junction.

Camps: 1st shortly after the bridge at puente el ingles in the sand. Nice swimming next to it, but no morning sun until noon. 2nd abou q00 to 200m upstream of ford 23.7 next to Rio Nuble. Nice bolders, big pool, but strong current and very cold. 3rd camp 36.2, meadows quite wet, limited protection, just a few bushes. Small cold pool 150m away at Rio Las Minas. 4th a few hundred meters before ford 47.4 on a small flat spot next to the path. Nice camp shortly northwest of trailhead 80.5. Big nice pool at Rio Polcura for swimming next to where option 1 fords. West side Camp at Laguna El Roble as east has shallow water. Stream next to camp dried up, I found a small one a bit further north along the shore. Had to clean up 2m of thick bushes for water access. Camp at Laguna Hermosa very windy, but just follow the black cable to the west for maybe 20m, then go 3m through the treebushes and you are in a little quit well wind protected clearing: -37.274802,-71.383647. Camp 119.7, but water dried up, and very dusty and limited protection, not a good camp. There are some meadows a few hundred m further around the puesto, also no water there in March.

Men cleaning up the RR path north of Los Peucos. Some workers at the camp, but the ranger is working on the trail. No ranger means no firewood for cooking, no wifi and the thermas are without water. So no point in staying there and I move a bit further camp on some dusty place next to the road with a bit clambering river access. Next morning first morning frost.

Hot spring 40.3 is absolutely amazing. Best one I saw on the GPT. Stayed there for hours naked and got a bit sunburned. The "smoking river" a few hundred meters further west is also worth seeing.

Lots of blackberries along RR Rio Los Sauces.

Hardly any paths around camp 29.5 for a few hundred meters, overgrown or landslided. Not a big problem, just slows you down.

Long boring road, but hitch until police station shortly after ford 12.2km. Police friendly, wants passport, detail plans and phone number in case of emergency.

Gate at -36.81995,-71.25333, entry forbidden sign. easy to climb.

RR after junction E is partly overgrown, but still walkable, just slows you down.

Combined Section 7 and 8, in total 17 days, with lots of bathing and sitting around. Run out of food the last few days and had to restrict to one portion per day, which made me even slower due to lack of energy. But it was totally worth it. Still have way too much body fat. Last ridge one of the most beautiful parts of the GPT, stunning views and diverse path.

Hitch ruta Q-45 to Antuco.

Work in progress

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-28 / 4.5 days / SOBO / RR / Gabriele - Trails of Wander'''

Day 1 (0.5) - Termas de Chillan - near Camp 08 [42.3/2087]. Late start at around noon from OH-Tl-V 08-02 [2.6+3.3] (Thermas de Chillan Parking) after hitch-hiking from Las Trancas. Reached Las Trancas with RemBus from the Chillan Rural Bus Terminal La Merced. The Sendero Valle Aguas Calientes have been re-routed for a few 100s meters after the fumaroles and it stays higher than the original track. Easy to follow. Once in the Valle Aguas Calientes I continued to Hot Spring 08 [40.3/2173] NOBO which is really a must do on this section and then retraced back to a camping area about 200 m lower than Camp 08 [42.3/2087] that I thought was dryer, flatter and had good access to water.

Day 2 - Camp 08 [42.3/2087] Valle Aguas Calientes - Los Peucos CONAF Hot Spings Camping. I followed the RR for this day. The only note of relevance is that the ford of Rio Diguillin at [48.4/1334] is still hips high with strong current and need to be approached with trekking poles and cautiously. The critical part is only about 2 meters wide, but the current is strong. Water is not particularly cold.

Day 3 - Los Peucos CONAF Hot Spings Camping - camp on Laguna Del Laja shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614]. I was lucky to get a ride for 3-4 km right out of Los Peucos by a CONAF maintenance crew who was going to do some tree cleaning on a minor road down the valley. This route branched out from the RR MR and according to the crew it is shorter to get to the Camino Oleoducto road. The alternative route turns into a faint trail for the last km or so and it crosses Rio Polcura in a very easy and shallow spot with water always below knee and calm current. After the crossing it overlaps with OH-CC-a 08-D for the last km, then it meets RR MR shortly after the ford on the RR. This alt route is flat and easy and possibly shorter of about 1-2 km than RR. On Camino Oleoducto I was also able to hitch-hike for about another 3-4 km to reach the start of the Sendero Los Ratones RR-Tl-V 08[80.6]. Thanks to the rides I was able to reach Laguna Del Laja quicker than expected. I decided to camp on the lake shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614] rather than continuing to Laguna El Roble as the spot was scenic. There I met Hugo, the Arriero who stays at the Puesto nearby Laguna El Roble.

Day 4 - Camp on Laguna del Laja shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614] - Laguna Hermosa. I just followed the RR for this day with the exception of the short CC to Laguna Hermosa where I camped for the night.

Day 5 - Camp at Laguna Hermosa - Camping Lagunilla (10k CLP per day). Also followed RR for this final day. Camping Lagunilla is very good with hot showers and very nice camp sites. Unfortunately no more homemade empanadas, only bebidas from this week moving forward for the remaiming of the season. The following morning I easily hitch-hiked to Abanico where there are small stores and took the bus to Los Angeles at 1 pm.

Overall a good section with variety of landscapes and views particularly around Volcan Chillan / Aguas Calientes and along the traverse above Laguna Del Laja with great views of Volcan Antuco and the Sierra Velluda.

* '''2024-Feb-20 to 2024-Feb-27 / 8 days / Hiking / NOBO / El Abanaico - Puente El Inglés / RR + Option H + Option B / Alex & Christophe'''

It was a really nice section for us. The part we really loved was from Thermas de Chillan to Rio Nuble. It felt more wild and with less people. So even if you fear Rio Nuble, avoiding this part would be a mistake for us. We think that the edge between km 117.3 and 100.6 also really worth it but can't totally know as we were in the fog.

A lot has already been said but here is what seems important to us:

We started the section hitchhiking from Antuco with a easy and fast ride to El Abanico.

There is some apple trees in the valley near Ford {08} [71.3/1089] and apples were nearly ready to be eaten.

Los Peucos were a nice stop to relax but we weren't alone as a lot of the previous comment. 2 other parties (horse riders) were also camping the same night as us. The road is being improved so this will maybe become a bit more popular than the last 2 months. It was 10'000 CLP pp for us, with firewood and Internet. We didn't try to connect so we can't comment on the speed and quality.

Ford {08} [48.4/1334] (Rio Diguilin) wasn't that hard. Just follow the horse track as it's a good place to ford and there will only be 1m with some current. It's still deep but we ford it at 6pm without any trouble. The best thing with this ford is that the water is warm and you can try to ford it without your backpack a few times before you're sure of the place you like the more. All this without frozen toes ;)

Ford {08} [23.7/950] (Rio Nuble) was ok but still not a piece of cake. We crossed it at 11:30 am and didn't thought it was so deep before going in. I had water nearly to my waist (I'm 174cm tall) and the current in the center is clearly present. The good point is that the river is not ice cold, so you can take your time and go slowly, being sure of the position of your feet and poles.

For the last 12 km, between El Roble and Puente El Inglés, it's full of fruit trees. It felt like being in a free fruit market. We could pick apples, pears, a lot of blackberries. There were even fig tree but it was a little bit too soon. So nice to have a bit of vitamin and fresh food after 8 days.

Finally, after asking at the mini-shop in Puente El Inglés, we learned that there is no more bus going to San Fabián. So we took a beer and some french fries before camping near the bridge after a pretty long day. The next day we walked an hour before we could catch a ride to San Fabián.

* '''Feb-9-2024 to Feb-14-2024 / 5 days ( of which 2 half days) / SOBO / Oh2, RR, var B, D, E, H / Matthieu'''

Very beautiful and diverse section, with the volcan, pastures of agua caliente, the forest and the rock and thorny bushed mountains.
At the end of the section, I suggest to follow RR to the lagunilla camping, it's an easy trail in the park, and 2 very nice cascadas to see. From the park entrance there is an osm track that cross Section 9 RR, direclty to the campsite, so you never have to walk on the road.
I started at Oh 2 to avoid rio Ñuble.

Trecking difficulties :
1) River crossing of rio Diguillin 48.4 is still not a peace of cake. The current is strong, and where i crossed it was max to the hips in the rapid water. I went on a large place with big rocks on the way to hide behind, it cuts the crossing into 3 difficult but very short parts, and you can hug the rocks not to fall.
2) The pass before Laguna Laja is a cemetery of trees, so the progression is a little bit slow but nothing difficult, it's basic gps navigation.
3) The part between laguna hermosa and Water 118.3 is steep, sliperry with rocks and sand. The tracks are difficult to follow at times. So the progression is slow, i suggest not to start it at the end of the day. I finished on var H without noticing it, just saw the trail from below. I was exhausted when i put my tent at camp 119.7 (an horrible mistake, see below).

Camp :
At Fumaroles at the beginning of Oh 2, some flat spaces in the valley and a clear cold river - Ford 50.5, arriero camp super nice - 300m before water 1.5 on var E, a nice flat place but very exposed. I wanted to camp at 72.9, incredible place, but a freshly dead horse was waiting for me, the whole place stinked like hell. Wanted to try to camp on RR along the rio after but it was overgrown at the beginning and it was late so back on var E - Laguna el Roble 98.3. It is an arriero spot with a clear river that goes into the lake. There is a trail into the trees that takes you into the beach for nice camp places. You don't really want to drink directly from the lake, so i don't suggest camp 97.8 (no fresh water). There is a puesto before the last uphill to the lake, really nice arriero inside who advised me this - Camp 119.7 : DON'T sleep there, the whole hill is an enormous nest of unfriendly red ants, I had to cook directly in my inner tent. The river runs very slow to so the water not good. So i suggest camp at the lagunas before, or if you still have courage to follow until the cross country after puesto 120, it's heaven for tents with view on antuco and the river is not far.

Water : all markers correct, no concerns until the final ridge.
For the ridge walk of cerro el toro, you can find water at camp without water 102.3 (so this year its name should be with water), water 106.6, laguna hermosa, laguna lagrima (the very little one after the cerro), and nothing after on RR until water 118.

Snow : one patch on Oh 2 on the track, but you can avoid it by a sendero litteraly 10m above, with no problems. No other patches.

Accomodations : bus from Chillan rural terminal, to thermas de Chillan at 14h, you have to walk from vale hermoso to the beginning of Oh2 - Camping Lagunilla, 10k per day, homemade empanadas sandwichs bebidas and cakes, very calm i loved it. For buses, you have to walk to albanico (6 per day for los angeles, of which 9h30, 11h, 15h30, 18h30).

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + RR + OH E + H + J / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH08-02

I took the bus at 2 pm from the rural bus station in Chillan to the Thermas de Chillan. From there I had to roadwalk 1.5 km to get to OH08-02. There are a few snow fields left around the Pass Pirigallo, but its easy to walk over them. At km 1.2 of OH08-02 I took the Valle de Agua Caliente Trail as short cut to the Camp at 42.3 on the RR. I did not like the spot there, but close to it at -36,91092, -71,36632 are some decent tent spots.

Day 2: RR [42.3-75.1] + OH08-E

The Ford at km 47.4 was max. knee high at 10 pm. (I am 191 cm tall). Be carefull fording Rio Diguillin at km 48.4. The water was just below my hips and the current was pretty strong (around 10:30 pm). I forded it about 60 m upstream of the gpx tracks. There was a big rock in the middle of the river to which I could hold on to. At km 59.6 is a closed barb wire gate that I couldn't open. I managed to climb over it, but it's a little tricky. The RR leads on to the property of the Thermas Los Peucos (km 63.9). After the ford at km 63.7 I had to step over a barded wire fence (no gate). Los Peucos was closed and I didn't see anybody. I didn't like the idea of trespassing so I climb over the front gate (km 63.9) and continued on RR. OH08-B might be a good alternativ to avoid Los Peucos. But I meet Ricardo a few km further south. He was on his way to Los Peucos. If I understood him correctly (my spanish is pretty basic) than he is going to be at Los Peucos for the next two months. So they should be open now if you are interested in taking a break there. There are two easy fords at km 70.0 and 70.6 on the RR. The river at Ford 71.3 is wide, but water was below knees in thr evening. I wanted to camp at km 72.9, but I found the body of a horse directly at the camping spot. It looked like it had died a few days ago and it smelled pretty bad. Therefore I continued to the camp at km 78.6. I accidently stayed on the dirtroad and walked variant E. It has some extra altitude but therefore some nice views into the valley. Water 0.7 on variant E was dry. All other water and ford Waypoints I passed today had water.

Day 3: RR [78.5-107.0]

Laguna El Roble is a nice break spot and the last water source until km 106.7. At the Camp Marker km 106,6 is only a overgrown meadow which isn't flat at all. But there is a descent camp spot at km 106,9. The Water at km 106.7 is only a trickle and might dry out soon. All Water markers I passed by today had water.

Day 4: RR [107.0-115.2] + OH08-H + RR [116.3-117.4] + OH08-J + RR [117.4-134.5]

The next water source after km 106.7 is Laguna Lagrima at km 113.5. I accidently hiked OH08-H instead of RR. Laguna Los Condores is pretty nice. But the last few hundred meters of OH08-J are overgrown and not so easy to walk trough. Its easier to follow the trail that leads to the eastern side of the Laguna and forks of at about km 0.6 of OH08-J. From this trail you can go down to the Laguna. There is water at all markers.

The part from km 100 to km 117 is very spectacular.

* '''2024 Jan 25 to Feb 5 / 12 days / SOBO / Opt 2, Opt 3, RR, Var D, Opt 6 + 2 OSM routes / Michael and Kasia'''

TL/DR: A beautiful but exhausting section.Reserva Nacional Ñubles is officially closed, but they are still letting people in. If taking Opt 3, look for the trail that starts just after El Trumao heading NE for a more interesting hike. Los Peucos is open, but has no food or power so not currently a resupply option.

Day 0 -
We took the bus from Chillan to Recinto hoping to camp for the night and take the early bus up to Termas de Chillán to begin the hike. (The bus that goes all the way to the hotel only goes twice a day. Both leave from the Terminal Rural in Chillan one at 08:00, the second at 14:00.) There were no camping options in Recinto, so we walked to Los Lleuques. We found a hostel called Antupiren at the entrance of town. 13.000 pp for private with shared bathroom, very nice owners. They have a restaurant too. There were some other places with signs for hostal and campamento further down the street. There are 4 or 5 shops and grocery stores in town. If you stay in Lleuques, a little further on is a nice public access beach along the river called La Playita that is popular with locals and a good place to escape the heat for the afternoon.

Day 1 -
We got up early and were at the bus stop at 08:15. The bus arrived at around 09:30. It only goes as far as the hotel and then you have to walk about 1 km up to the ski center where the trail begins. The beginning of the trail was steep and dusty, then leveled off a bit. It passes by some fumeroles. There are two paths up to the pass. One is not on GPT or OSM at the moment, but it is a marked path that is clearly visible. It goes more to the left and up. The other is a horse trail which is the one GPT goes along. They both meet about half way up. We took the horse trail up. There is some grassy area and access to a stream. Nice views of the valley on the way up. Close to the top there was still a small snow field left and the way around it was walking above it on large, loose rocks. We had resupplied for 8 days and our packs were around 25 kg each. Due to this we felt it would be unsafe for us to try to navigate the section so we decided to walk back. It was disappointing, but we were also thinking about the difficulties others had in crossing Rio Diguillin further on and figured it was an early warning. On the way back we took the marked path which was actually more difficult than the GPT track, which surprised us since it looked more like a tourist trail. We were rewarded at one point however with a spring gushing out of the ground and took the opportunity to get fresh cold water without the need to filter. When we got back to where the fumeroles were, we chatted with some mountain bikes and a couple of hikers. There is another route down which had an OSM track on the map. The bikers explained that it is the route they all take down. It is open to hikers as well and there are signs advising bikers to watch for hikers, but the biker said there are a lot of curves and it is possible to get hit on the way down if you are unlucky. It was around 18:30 and he said they were the last group, so if we just waited for them to leave we should be able to hike down without worrying. We waited, and it was totally worth it. The trail down is very dusty, but with much less incline than the way up, and at a certain point goes through a really beautiful beech forest with lots of wildflowers growing. There is no access to the estero until the bridge at the end. We tried to find a place to camp, but no luck. We ended up walking the highway back to a point where we had seen a dirt road connect to the estero and camped there for the night. Not optimal, but it was already dark by that point, so we were just grateful to sleep.

Days 2 and 3 -
We walked the highway until the Los Coltrahues nature trail that runs parallel to the highway and then walked that to Las Trancas. It was a pretty path and a nice alternative to the highway. In Las Trancas we bought food for lunch and dinner at a shop next to the bus stop. There are one or two other stores back the direction of Lleuques as well. A micro picked us up and dropped us off at the beginning of Opt 3. We had barely started walking when a family in a truck passed and offered us a ride to the river. We were incredibly grateful as the first 3 km of the road is incredibly dusty and there is actually a lot of traffic moving through. From where they left us we walked to the bridge and down to the river to have lunch and coffee. Lots of families were camping around the area. After lunch we got back on the route. A little further on the road was closed to vehicles due to storm damage and construction adding new culverts. No issues walking it. About 6km from the bridge there is a campground called San Antonio. It was also closed since the road was closed, but it was easy to get into. There are picnic tables and plenty of camping along with river access. We camped two nights to give ourselves a rest day. A few locals passed through, but no one else camped. It was very peaceful except for the tábanos. I killed more than 50 over the course of the day and it didn't seem to make much of a difference.

Day 4 -
We got up early to beat the heat and walked the first hour in the dark. We passed the area where the road has collapsed and where they are doing a reroute. No issue to walk it. We arrived at the gate that Lilian mentioned, the one with the dogs, at 08:00. There were 4 dogs that bark a lot. The guard came out, it seemed like we had woken him up. We explained what we were doing and he actually had no problem letting us through, but asked rhetorically what we were going to say to CONAF upstairs. The road up is in good shape. There were a few places to fill water along the way. When we arrived at El Trumao there was a CONAF guard there as well as some other people. He was incredibly nice, just registered us and then told us because the park is officially closed there was no fee to enter. He looked at our route and told us about another option, charged our phones for us, let us take water, and then even walked with us part way. The OSM track that runs along the river is a really nice option and we really enjoyed it. The first part is no longer relevant as the river destroyed part of the road and CONAF had done a reroute. If no one is there to show you, head along the GPT route toward Valle Hermosa until you see a trail branch to the left. It will be very obvious as it has wooden posts painted yellow on top and the whole trail has rocks lining either side. Follow that up. The first part was a lot of up and exposed, but after a while we entered native forest and enjoyed stretches that were in shade. There was a rest area with river access. Just after the waterfall lookout the trail dropped down a bit into a grove of old oak trees that was really nice and we camped there for the night (-36.95540, -71.45022) River access was about 100 m further on. This is a really great route option. It is along a trail instead of a road, it drops into RR about 18 km further north than finishing Opt 3 as marked, if you want to go to Los Peucos, you don't need to back track, and it stays on the south side of Rio Diguillin, connecting with RR just after the ford point others had trouble with this season. (Jan, if you read this, we enthusiastically endorse this as a variant for Opt 3!).

Days 5 and 6 -
The pass was a little overgrown, but nothing too challenging. On the way up we passed through a beautiful forest. We stopped at the last marked water point on the way up for a snack and coffee. The way down was dusty and then it opened up into a plain. The plain was easy, but as we went around the corner it turned into a swamp. The GPT route avoids the worst of it, but careful foot choice is important in some places. It was also really hot and humid. Then it was up again and then down again to get to Los Peucos. We initially followed RR, but the ford point looked challenging and there was barbed wire on the other side. I went across without my pack to try to find a way up. The rocks in the river were really slippery and I feel in at one point, but no injury. On the other side I climbed under the wire and up a hill. Then I had to climb under more barbed wire. I walked onto the property and ran into Ricardo who manages Los Peucos. He was very nice, and took me to show me the front entrance and a much easier ford point that is defined for cars to pass, which turned out to be Var B. So if going to Los Peucos SOBO, I recommend taking Var B. I went back to get Kasia and my pack and we camped there for two nights in order to clean out gear and take a rest day.

A few notes on Los Peucos. Los Peucos is open, price this year is 5.000 pp for termales only, 10.000 pp for camping, 24 hours of access to termales and wood to make a fire in a fire pit. They were having trouble with both their generator and solar panels and have been without power for two months, so don't plan to charge anything there. Also a section of the road there was destroyed over the winter, so almost no one is going there and they aren't getting any resupply for their tiendita, so don't plan on this as a resupply point until someone posts that this has changed, which may be awhile since there seems to be some bureaucratic issue preventing the road from being fixed.

Day 7 -
We left Los Peucos just as it was getting light. The road and trail are in good condition for walking. We took Var D to cross Rio Polcura. River ford was easy, thigh high but very little current. We stopped at the camp at [72.9/1104] to have lunch. There were some arrieros and Carabineros already camped for the night, and it was too early to stop for the day, so we continued on. The valley path that RR follows is surely more interesting than walking the road along Var E, but it is fairly overgrown with spiky plants and it was slow going. There is almost no river access along the path, but there were one or two streams. We do not recommend the camp at [78.6/1203], especially if you are using a trekking pole supported tent. It is overgrown and difficult to access, anything that is not sand is covered in those annoying plants that leave tiny spiky balls attached to your clothes, and river access is not great. We ended up camping in the old road grade just above, but it was pure dust. We really regretted camping here, however it was late and we didn't know if there would be any place else to camp further on. (There is though!)

Day 8 -
We were to tired to do the pass, but we didn't want to stay camped in the same place for the day. We found a better campsite just 2 km further up trail (-37.09454, -71.31211). Just before the trailhead to the pass, on the left side of the road, there is a dirt path going down to a camping area that arrieros use (it is the same road as the end of Opt 1). It has grass and could fit probably two or three tents. The river access is about 100 m away, but it was really clean access with a stone beach and even a small sand beach and a great swimming spot to cool off. There is essentially no shade so it wasn't great for a rest day in that respect, but it was directly below the pass, so a great starting point for that. We took advantage of the river and washed all the dust off the tent. The fabric felt like new afterward!

Day 9 -
We got up early to try to tackle the pass before sun hit. The trailhead is a little easier to find now as more arrieros and hikers have gone through. The pass up is overgrown in places, but not as bad as we had expected. There were some great early morning views. Something killed most of the forest in that valley some time ago and all the dead trees are sun bleached white which was really interesting. As Lilian mentioned, there is a place where the trail collapsed. People have been walking about 5 m upstream and crossing there, but the short reroute is eroding and it looked a little sketchy to us. We went into the stream bed and climbed up through the bamboo to regain the trail. It was lovely forest higher up and on the other side for some time. Keep a lookout for a nice view of Laguna del Laja from a distance on the way down. The valley was another world entirely. Completely exposed, mostly dry but with some sections of swamp, we lost the trail a few times in a maze of overgrown thorn bushes. We took an afternoon break at the puesto just before reaching the lake. We were a little underwhelmed by the lake itself, I think because it has no trees around. We got a little lost on the way up to Laguna Roble, but a very friendly and helpful arriero staying at the puesto at the end of the valley saw us and came out to help direct us up. We stopped at the marked campsite at the east side of the lake. Previous entries had suggested the west side campsite is more wind protected. I went packless to scout it, but I could not see any way in and the water access near the site looked like marsh. We stayed on the east side, no wind issue for the night. The water in the lake was not too cold, so nice to swim in.

Day 10 -
We started early to get through as much of the pass as possible before the sun hit. The beginning of the trail was actually hard to find, but once we were on it, it was clear. The up was very demanding and exhausting, and it was overgrown in parts. There is a saddle just before the final push to the pass where we stopped to take a break and some pictures (great view of the lake, volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda) but there were biting ants everywhere that swarmed us and our packs so we moved on. Good views of both valleys as we walked along. Reports from previous years suggested no water between Laguna Roble and Laguna Hermosa. There was at least two water points between, one of which was a very nice spring with shade around (-37.21425, -71.37259). Being exhausted and running low on supplies, we had already decided that Opt 6 would be our exit from GPT08. The route down was steep and thus slow, but clear and easy to follow. There are multiple water points on the way down. We camped about 1 km in at the first marked campsite. There was a shady, somewhat flat, somewhat grassy area that arrieros use for camping and a spring flowing just below. It was a nice spot after hiking so many hours completely exposed in full sun.

Day 11 -
The first part of Opt 6 down was really nice. There were nice views of the mountains as the sun came up, then it goes into forest for awhile before the arriero path finally meets the service road. We were also fortunate to have cloud cover for most of the day. There are a few unmarked water points between the last marked one and Rayenco. Rayenco is not a settlement but connected to the power plant. Shortly after Rayenco there is what looks like an abandoned picnic area and sports concha. We stopped for lunch, and it could be used for emergency camping if necessary. Hitchhiking out seems essentially impossible. It's just cars associated with the power plant, and our experience is that those vehicles don't take hitchhikers, probably a company policy. We walked to the highway, chatting with the gate guard on the way out. On the highway it took about half an hour, but finally a kind soul, Sergio, who had actually passed us, turned around and came back just to pick us up and dropped us at Plaza de Armas un Antuco. We found lodging at Cabañas Puelche 2 blocks east of the plaza, 15.000 pp for a private room in the hostel portion of the establishment, shared bath, fridge, pool.

* '''2024 Jan 05 to 2024 Jan 09 / 5 days/ SOBO from Termas de Chillan / RR / Hannes&Christian'''

1. Day: Walked from Termas de Chillan to Rio Diguillín. Slept there at -36.935262, -71.403804 and forded the next morning around -36.935730, -71.401841. Thought there would be less water running in the morning, but actually it looked pretty the same as the day before…
2. Day: Walked to Los Peucos and further down for a nice campsite near the river -37.046868,
-71.415394
3. Day: We took Option D to short cut the minor road…easy to walk, CC, recomendable…then along road and path and road again, up to a pass in the woods and down to a widening valley, camped at -37.15603, -71.32019. As others already wrote on wikiexplora we had there as well a pretty freezing night around 0 degrees Celsius I think, although the spot was not that high….around 1450m. A lot of humidity.
4. Day: For us here the nicest part started, walking down to Laguna de la Laja, up to a pass and then all along ridges to Laguna Hermosa. Amazing views. Instead of walking down to L. Hermosa you can camp as well a little above the lake around -37.269841, -71.381748 with water access, at least in early summer I guess. Personally I think it isn’t worth to go down to the Laguna (except no water possibility above) , first because you’ll have an electric power line over your head sleeping there (there is a hydroelectric power station in the valley nearby), second because it can be a windy place at shore…at least for us it was like this. Third: Still something like 1 km from the ridge. Choose yourself.
5. Day: From L. Hermosa to Estación de Esqui. Pretty nice views of surrounding peaks, at the end we walked a pretty annoying road out to the ski area. Then we hitchhiked to Camping Lagunillas, an amazing place with very nice owners. Feels there like being on the Gpt, but with running water and shower. Probably depends on the season…

* '''2024 Jan 13 / 5 days / SOBO / RR, OH-TL / Anh'''

Everyone feared Ñuble, me too, so I took option 2.

The trail was difficult to find from km 112-117, I left RR and took OH-TL. Otherwise the trail was easy to see. There were only a few snowfields that were easy to cross.

Ford km 48.4: Disclaimer: please do not my mistake! I first tried two best possible spots (hip), but the flow (13:00) was too strong, I couldn’t hold my hiking poles. Then 50m further on I saw two tree trunks arranged like bridges from other GPTs. After crossing them, however, it was not possible to go back to RR after a few attempts. My best possible option was BB with 70 degree slope straight up. It was only possible with bamboo trees, but was very dangerous. I'm writing my mistake here so you can avoid it!

Camp km 106.6: I included this camp in my daily plan (about 20km, 1000m uphill, 350m downhill). here is not possible to find 1qm flat spot. So I had to walk 4km further from my reserve.

* '''2024-Jan-11 to 2024-Jan-15/ 4.5 days / SOBO / Termas de Chillán(Var 2)+RR+Var G+H+J(Lakes)/ Matthias'''

Started in Termas de Chillán. Hiking, most fordings (see day 1) and orientation was quite easy on this section. Only on last part of Travesía Pilcura some steep snowfields to cross. Warm and hot creeks on first day (Fondo Aguas Calientes), views and lakes on forth day (Travesía Pilcura) were spectacular. Plenty of water everywhere. A lot of annoying horse flies.

Day1: Termas de Chillán - km53.6
Only minor snowfields. Ascent of Volcán Chillán Viejo should be possible without crampons, no snow on steep upper slopes. Fumaroles on ascent from Termas, warm creek with pools right when you come down to Fondo Aguas Calientes. Also people camping there. I underestimated ford at km48.4 (Rio Diguillín), water was up to upper hips and current, I was washed away… But overall no dangerous crossing and with more cautious selection the fording should be easier. Arrieros at puesto at km49.6 (Coihuería) were the last people I met until end of section!

Day2: Reserva Nacional Ñubles
Officially the reserva was closed. I entered Termas Los Peucos via RR, watering of meadows was running, I said „Hello“ but nobody answered.
Took a bath in the beautiful hot springs, two stone-walled pools.

Day 3: km78.6 (Rio Ñubles) - km98.3 (Laguna El Roble)
Easy day … nice swimming at the camp with fireplace in the evening

Day 4: Travesía Polcura - Laguna ElToro
Spectacular day: great views, mountains, lakes and path.
The detours to the lakes (var G+J, Laguna Hermosa, ElToro and Los Condores) are worthwhile!
Some steep snowfields on RR below Cerro El Toro, I used microspikes, but in a warm afternoon you can also safely cross without. Beautiful (!!) camp at Laguna El Toro with sun until 19:45 though it’s deep in a cirque.

Day5:
Nice view of Volcán Antuco from the ridge just before the volcán (ca. km125). I left the road and walked +-height parallel to the solar collectors which are visible on the ridge from the MR.
From Curva El Candado I tramped down most of the road to the junction to Abanico, where I ate lunch at the friendly cafe/restaurant „Roca“ and where the bus to Los Angeles leaves at 15:00.

* '''2023-Dec-28 to 2024-Jan-01 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / {08-03} - {08-C} - RR - {08-06} - {08-06B} / Lilian'''

Avoid of crossing Rio Ñuble, i go for {08-03}.

There is a bus from Chillán to Los Lleuques at 18:00, take about 1.5 hour. A small shop and some tiny shops there, friendly and good resupply. Look like have some restaurants too, but i'm too late so they're already closed.

{08-03} km3.3 : tiny shop selling drinks.

Km4.3 : camping spots or camping possibilities start from here to south.

Km11.3 : ranger station for guard of Reserva National, look like need booking in advance or some permits. Otherwise you can't go in by this gate. (It is impossible for sneak in, two dogs here.)

Luckily after i took 10min to explain what I'm doing, where does my routes go, why i'm here, I'll pack out all my trash, no fire, no pick plants, dig a hole for poop, etc. He let me go in, 1000% thank you to him!

Km19 : bridge for crossing Río Diguillín.

Km19.45 : El Trumao, Camping Relbún. Ranger station and Conaf campground, didn't see anyone when i passed here.

Km19.7 : closed gate, you can open it on left side. Old, steep and rocky dirt road behind this gate, look like no cars on it for some years. (Some place landslide, cars impossible to pass by)

Km21.3 : Rio Relbún, good water flowing nice, rock hopping for dry feet.

Km22.8 : view point of valley, also some flat spots with trees can fit 2-4 tents.

Km23.7 : pass, Paso Atacalco, descent to a beautiful valley.

Km25.3-km26.2 : some tiny streams flowing with good water, but maybe dry up soon.

Km28.4 : Valle Hermoso, Ranger station and Conaf campground, didn't see anyone when i passed here. Río Blanquillo flowing at here too.

Some more tiny streams flowing across the road at south, but i think they will all dry up soon.

Km35.6 : a side trail to see a waterfall, I think it is just soso.

Then connect with {08-C}, then back to RR.

{08-C} km2.4 : a very beautiful demon rock hill on your left side, worth take a look!

RR Ford[71.3/1089] : crossing of Río Polcura, it's a wide river crossing about 80m, luckily it is already made for vehicles crossing so have a rock bar underwater, easy to cross. Mostly just half of calf, in the middle about 10m, up to knee and flowing very fast.

Camp[72.9/1104] : it's a really nice camping spot with tree shade and beside a river.

Camp[78.6/1203] : this spot is not beside RR. When you finish valley trail walk, if you don't join dirt road and keep going walk in the valley then you'll arrive here.

Water[79.1/1214] : log bridge crossing.

Trailhead[80.5/1248] : not easy to notice the trailhead, although it have a fallen board on the ground.

North of the pass is overgrown, south of the pass lot of fallen trees block the trail.

Didn't see any camping spots until almost to valley.

Water[81.8/1475] : when you get close, be careful dont walk too fast. Just before the stream dont follow the trail to left side and go down, it is already landslide and you'll fall off 2m vertically.

Pass[84.2/1744] : tons of huge dead trees and ready to fall down in next second. Don't camp here, it is dangerous.

Km85.8 : flat spot can fit 2-3 tents.

Km86: flat spots can fit 1 tent before and after a stream crossing.

Km95.2 : excellent view point of Volcán Antuco, look like some flat spots at downhill side close to the beach.

Camp[97.8/1456] : beside a tree, can fit 1-2 tents with fire ring. Last reliable water when you climbing up.

Km102 : snow start here, but all you can go around.

Camp without water[102.3/2063] : no camping spot as now, wet, muddy and lot of stream are flowing by snow melt, a fire ring is in the stream too!

I camped at km103.45, just before the pass, there is some brushes provide wind protection from west. Can fit 1-2 small tents.

Km104.1 : a large flat area, but no wind protection.

X[105.4/1934] : no more trail junction at "X", you need to go down a little, then CC to connect the trail at south.

Camp[106.6/1938] : wet, grassy and steep spot. A large flat area after you climb up the stream at km106.95, it is in a valley and no wind protection.

Km109.45 : a small pass, excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda!

Snow start at km109.9, unfortunately when i almost climbed up to ridge, i found that km111.8 to km113.5(at least) , all covered by snow on a very steep slope. It is not a good idea to go through this high risk area, also Cerro El Toro is a very sharp rocky peak, not possible walk on the ridge to go around the slope, so i turn back to "X"[105.4/1934], and join {08-06} continues to south.

{08-06} is a nice trail to go down, and look like somone have maintained it, nearly no fallen trees and just very little overgrown, easy to follow and walk.

{08-06} km4.5 : junction of {08-06} and {08-06A}, look like {08-06} in a better condition, also {08-06} from here to km5.6, it is an old dirt road and no more using.

Km5.6 : junction to join a good dirt road. Camping spot just before the junction, and there are also lot of camping possibilities along the good dirt road.

Gate[8.6/808] : locked, climb over it.

Km9.3 : another gate, you can open it on left side, if you want to camping, better before this gate.

Km22.4 : i join {08-06B} for shorter distance to main road for hitching to Antuco.

* '''2023-Dec-19 to 2023-Dec-20/ 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Antuco RR and Option 6/ Jens'''

Tried to go up the main route. First pass was steep and full of snow. Decided to turn around and try Option 6.

As option 6 is on private land owned by the Hydroelectrico, a guard picked me up and told me to register with the Carabineros in Antuco. Frustrated I decided to skip section 8 in favour of section 7.

* '''2023-Dec-21 to 2023-Dec-24/ 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / San Fabian - Las Trancas / Ella'''

TLDR: River fords are still heinous, especially Ñuble. Bring micro spikes if crossing Paso Prigallo to go towards Las Termas de Chillan.

Day 1: Hitched a ride part of the way from San Fabian, and then caught a bus (was a Thursday around 1 pm) until Punilla. Camped at a small, windy site with good river access and near the Punilla swimming hole, which is definitely worth a visit. Some friendly caballeros came around 8 pm to camp as well.
Day 2: Walked towards Los Sauces, splitting off to the right where the road/trail led. Could not cross river here because of construction. Went back to the main road and walked North to where there was a (padlocked) cable car and did a challenging ford - current was somewhat strong and water went to my navel (I’m 5’8”/172 cm). In retrospect, would have been better to just walk/bus all the way into Los Sauces and make a safer crossing there. Cabineros in El Roble were nicer to me that the ones in San Fabian. Camped just before Camp {08} [21.6/873] since it now seems to be on private property.
Day 3: Had to trespass for about a mile before reaching the Ñuble river but didn’t run into anyone. Ñuble was really difficult. I got there just before 8 am. Crossing the river at designated spot was not possible. I went upstream, around the bend, and about a hundred meters further to where the river widens and gets a bit shallower. I crossed with water about up to my navel (I’m 5’8”/172 cm) but a little past midway the current took me off my feet and I went for a brief swim before grabbing a rock and recovering on the other side. After getting to the other side, I had to scramble/bushwhack up a near-vertical slope to where there appears to be sort of a terrace in the landscape. I found the best spot was behind where the bank of the river flattened out a bit. Thankfully once getting to the top, you’re blessed with a faint trail leading back to the main route. This approach was not very fun at all - it is probably best to wait another week or two before attempting the river.
After that, the trail gets harder to follow, especially after entering the larger valley. As per others advice, I tried crossing the river in the valley to the right side, but also ran into impassable shrubbery/broken trees there so I ended up crossing back and forth as needed. The first pass didn’t have any snow. There is a difficult ford after the marker for Trailhead {08} [34.6/1873]. Camped at Camp {08} [36.2/1953] which was lovely.
Day 4: Headed towards Las Termas de Chillan. Both passes were very snowy. The second pass, only necessary if going off main trail towards Las Termas, had steep sections that called for micro spikes. I was lucky that there were some people who had just come through and kicked steps in, making this part easier. Hitched a ride to Las Trancas where there are multiple well stocked mini markets and nice hostal options. Not sure if I will continue on GPT 08 given the snow and river conditions so far.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-02 to 2023-Apr-06/ 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / El Roble - Los Peucos - Recinto / RR + OH03 / Hannes & Luisa'''

Hitchhiked from San Fabian to way after El Roble, rather easy on weekends as it seems many locals around. Ñuble crossing with strong current and water above knees (me 185cm), but still ok compared to other months I think. Went up the mountain and into this valley with beautiful oak-trees. Getting out of this forest we crossed the river to the orographic left side as suggested by others...initially a good choice, all the same we had to switch like 2 to 3 times river bank to avoid some nasty Bush bashing...We reccomend to just open your eyes and see which side works best for you after the initial crossing at approximately -36.856679 -71.275261. After the last camp in the valley path clearly visible and steep ascent to the pass. After the pass we got into this amazing volcanic landscape east of Volcan Chillàn. After the second pass we descended to Aguas Calientes, hot thermal pools at the end of a valley surrounded by some green yellow pasture and loads of cows. Good spot to camp...Then we went to Termas Los Peucos, took us 3.5 days till there. Just for the pools they take 10k, pools and camp was 14k. As one of us felt little sick we decided to hitchhike out over OH03. Do not consider this an emergency exit as it is rather difficult to hh out there, very few cars on the road as access is limited due to a private tunnel and only Carabineros and some oil- and gas-pipeline companies are around there with their cars it seems. All the same we were lucky and got out to Recinto (further down in the valley of Termas de Chillán, near Las Trancas...) In this valley or if you get out at Termas de Chillán we highly recommend Cabañas Ayunkoyam owned by Vincente Ruiz in Recinto, +56999991737, call him before. For this rather expensive valley quite a good option. Vincente is a local mountain guide who seems to know every mountain in his country and is a nice guy to talk to.

* '''2023-Apr-02 to 2023-Apr-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / El Roble - Volcán Chillán - Termas de Chillán / Noémie'''
Very short section because I got a lift from San Fabián until after El Roble (21.0), a bit before the end of the minor road. Carabineros checked ID and asked for sufficient equipment. Ñuble crossing was not that hard but I had water until my waist, even at the end of the season (I am 1m60 though...). Camped the first night at Camp {08} [29.5/1441], on the left bank of the river, where there was a bit of space. The next morning, it was a bit hard to go up the valley with all the dead trees and no path visible. Tried to follow fellow GPT hikers advices, but ended up crossing the river multiple times to find a walkable path without too many bushes, until Camp {08} [31.3/1629]. After this tricky part, both paths are beautiful and quite easy. The thermal river is amazing. There was plenty of space with beautiful hot water pools but also cold water at Camp {08} [40.4/2150]. The last day, I took OH {08-02} and OH {08-02A} to go up Volcán Chillán and then exit at Termas de Chillán. Beautiful ascent with no specific difficulty except the steep last 300 meters. The place is full of condors flying really close, super impressive.
There are no housing options and no buses during the week leaving from Termas de Chillán. You can walk/hitchhike until -36.910163, -71.417798 where buses leave regularly everyday for Chillán. Found many cabañas options in Trancas de Chillán a bit further down. Overall, very beautiful and diverse section (forests, rivers, sand deserts, volcanos) with amazing hot springs!

* '''2023-Mar-13 to 2023-Mar-18 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Abanico — Thermas de Chillán / Iris, Alexis '''

Starting from Los Angeles, we took a bus (at 12:30) towards Abanico and then two rides until the start of OH-MR-V {08-K} [0.0+0.1]. Then, there is a gate (after the Bridge, Gate {08} [126.7/1339] point) locked with a padlock but easy to climb. The CC section (RH-CC-A {08} [26.4/122.0+1.9]) is actually following the MR so we thought better stay on the road. When we reached Camp {08} [120.2/1520], it was completely dry so we continued a bit and found a nice spot in the forest (close to -37.32983, -71.39823).

On Day 2, we continued on the trail, simply taking the shortcut OH-TL-V {08-I} [0.0+0.2]. Then, we chose to take option 08-H to stay high, it was really beautiful. We stayed on the rim until a hard part and then we diverged on the trail that was present a bit below us. As other as noted, on RH-CC-A {08} [18.1/113.7+2.0] you follow a trail or a set of footprints. When the trail and the trace diverge, follow the trail, it is usually the best option. And don't miss Trailhead {08} [113.7/2184], we tried to go around it but regretted it. Then, the trail until Laguna El Robles (Camp {08} [98.2/1456]) is nice but the descent is steep. We believe the path has been cleared recently because lot of fresh fallen branches on the ground. On the lake, we camped on the east side but it was very windy. The other side looked more protected.

On Day 3, we followed the RR until Camp {08} [73.3/1104]. It was a rather uneventful day except we met a lot of arrieros in the morning that went for a wild bull hunt. The camp is nice and felt like a campground.

On Day 4, we hiked for just a few kilometers to reach the Thermas Peucos. It was a very worthy stop, an oasis in the middle of the hike : 10k PP for the camping and hot springs (stoned pools). We even bought a lunch from the minishop which has quite a nice selection. Like others, we used the option 08-C to avoid the pointless climb in the RR.

On Day 5, we did a rather long walk until Camp {08} [40.4/2150] to enjoy the natural pool. The trail is a bit overgrown after the thermas but nothing bad. The day was full of going up : 2500 on the tracks but the GPS said only 2100 at the end of the day. The hot springs are amazing, truly the best we encountered. And we were alone there.

On Day 6, we met a horserider when leaving the camp a bit angry because he did not sleep. He camped near a group that partied the whole night (we believe it was close to Ford {08-02} [1.6/2097]). Then, option 08-02 and variant A to ascend the volcan. It starts with a nice trail and ends up with sand that is really hard to climb. Nothing difficult nor dangerous but extremely tiresome. It took us 3h to go up but we enjoyed our lunch at the top! Then the descent is really fast, thanks to this sand (about 1h). The rest of the trail until Thermas de Chillán is a bit overrun, we met numerous hikers (but it was a Saturday). There, we hitched a ride until Recinto and took the 7:00PM bus to Chillán for a ressuply.

Overall our impressions on this section are a bit mixed. We enjoyed the numerous hot baths and the volcan summit but we were less amazed by the landscapes compared to the previous sections (of note as we did go up quite a lot, we probably were a bit too exhausted to truly enjoy it completely!) . Perhaps it is more rewarding when going SOBO?

* '''2023-Feb-02 to 2023-Feb-08 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + emergency exit / Martial '''

Puente Inglés - Los Peucos - Antuco
Super pleasant trekk in various landscapes and sweet hot springs. Met Ondrej at the start and shared the road walking before he eventually escapes in the first climb ! Met again finally at the hot river for a deserved rest after big climbing day. Next the descent to los Peucos is rather long with overgrown detour of the swamp at the end. That’s where my phone died for no reason. May it RIP with all my pictures :’( Still if there’s a good soul out there with a machete and long trousers feel free to save this beautiful trail ! Then los Peucos was a paradise oasis for a 14000$ 24h rest day. Not so expensive to me considering the quality of the hotspring service and resupply in the middle of nowhere ! « El Toro » hotspring is a once in lifetime experience for sunrise and had the all domain for myself 😌 Do not hesitate to stop there and meet Ricardo who doesn’t see many souls otherwise.
4th night spent 3km down near los Peucos in a super recommanded magical waterfall bassins with perfect « nuit à la belle étoile » on the hot rock.
After km 80 the forest is kind of colonised with annoying flyes and thermites wich makes it not an enjoyable place. Also recommend taking plenty of water from laguna el roble cause dry climb and ridge walking ahead (there’s still a little stream pond under a tree a few km after the pass if you look well). Arrived there in late afternoon with no place to camp and saw emergency exit on the right which triggered green light in my brain (as gear failures were acumalating and motivation low). Felt good after a few tears but the long road walking in the hydraucentral gave me some regrets until i eventually arrived in Antuco after hotish hitchhiking.

* '''2023-Jan-28 to 2023-Feb-04 / 7.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcán chillàn & volcán Antuco / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day 1
Got off the bus here (-36.67295, -71.29201) instead of Los Sauces for an easy ford. The bus driver knew of this place. The ford was here -36.67738, -71.28739, knee-high. We crossed around 3pm. The road section until the carabinieros was surprisingly popular on a weekend: we got a 3km hitch, but if we started earlier, I am sure we could have hitched a lot more. The valley is nice to walk in though.
The carabinieros basically just wanted to know if we had a proper GPS and map. We could not understand if they were telling us "not" to go close to Volcán Chillán or just "warning" us. I checked online the day before and it said the volcano is in green, but the cabineros said it was yellow.
Made camp at the 17km waypoint because it was a good spot. Lots of unmarked water waypoints on the road such as -36.69615, -71.27770 and -36.72718, -71.26420.
Day 2.
Crossed Nuble with no problems around 9am. The water was not strong but not totally calm and was under our crotches: I am 170cm and Tomáš is ~173cm. Hats off to the others that crossed when water levels were much higher! Remember to turn right and not left after the ford.
The path was better than expected, but still can be easily lost until the first pass at 33.2km. Thanks to the tip from Will, we took the path on the other side of the river once out of the trees to avoid the blow down, somewhere around or close to camp 29.5. Hot pass.
We made camp at the hotsprings ([40.3/2173]) after the second pass, their beauty and heat made up for the long day. There are a couple of perfect spots near the hotsprings with some cold water for drinking, -36.90156, -71.35089. Spent two nights here. The hot springs are regular creeks, most of which in the valley are hot. Saw some locals camping in other spots, seems like a popular place.
Day 3.
Volcán Chillàn. Easy climb following the standard route but the last 600m was slow sandish-like material which made for a very quick descent. Instead of going back the way we came, we followed an unmarked/unmapped "road" on the south side of Volcán Chillán that lead to switchbacks down to the hotsprings that we saw earlier that morning. Basically if coming from volcano, follow the road east from here -36.89199, -71.38543 and aim for the switchbacks to the hotsprings camp here -36.90336, -71.36145 [as of 2024 included in our suggestions in the released Track files]. There is some dirty water on the way but very interesting and scenic. I am slightly worried about posting this because it is likely not meant to be walked, also not sure it actually saves time compared to the normal trail but it allows for a nice roundtrip. One can get Internet on the way to the volcano when the ski resorts are visible. Camped again at the hotsprings.
Day4
Nothing to add for this day, trail was nice and under trees a lot of the way, all fords easy or jumpable. Met two French who were doing the GPT northbound. Camped near the puesto 61.7 before the hotsprings, path was always there, just a little overgrown.
Day5
Trail to hotsprings was not that bad, just overgrown bamboo but otherwise nice. The hotsprings is not actually CONAF but a concession. Prices were as described 14mil for camping and 7mil just for hotsprings. If you want to buy food from them, I recommend going at the beginning of the month as that is when they restock, for us there was still lots of food left but nothing fresh or good, very expensive.
On the road we used option C to avoid the hill as others suggested (seems like the main road now) and as for variant D, we did not see anything, so we back-tracked a bit and took a different unmarked trail here that was successful -37.06894, -71.39599 and forded river here -37.06857, -71.39158 to meet the RR [now in the suggestions too].
The trailhead at 81.0 is hard to see, be ready.
That trail from 81.0 to the pass was more overgrown in my mind than the rest of the days but still not terrible. Camped on the other side 88.9 (actually a bit further down were nicer camp-spots with lovely short grass).
Day6
Somehow at camp 88.9 we woke up to frost over everything. Have no idea what kind of phenomenon this is because I don't think it froze (forecast was for 16 in the night) but even the little moisture in my breakfast bowl froze shortly after eating it...
Quick trail to Laguna el Roble except the trail is easy to loose just before the Laguna in the grassy section, keep climbing left towards an unmarked puesto here -37.20868, -71.33023.
There should technically be a better water source than the lake itself at camp 98.8, but I just took water from the lake:S. The next pass towards the ridge was hot but easy. Good trail until you hit the X at 105.9. Then the path is harder to follow. The camp at 107.1 seems silly and would be better higher above the listed water source. We ended up going cross country all the way from a pass like structure here -37.25066, -71.38499 to Laguna Hermosa because there was a trail on the other side (a bit lower than official RR so it made sense to follow it elevation-wise) that eventually faded away.
Laguna Hermosa was worth it as others have stated but unfortunately very heavy winds crept in that night. It was way less windy on the East side of the lagoon, which we only noticed in the morning.
Day7
Very heavy winds. We made a small short cut to the RR from the Laguna by heading west sooner [included in our suggestions]. We considered turning around on the ridge as the winds were likely around 80km/hr at one point near the pylons, but luckily since the route is not actually on the ridge but under it, the rest of the way was okay, still windy but not pushing us over. The rest of the ridge was no problem for us, slower of course since there is sidehilling and edging but nothing scary or exposed. There was no snow though.
El Puesto at 121 had two dogs but we did not see anyone. We camped at Laguna Laja (not nice) to climb Antuco the next day. To no surprise the restaurant and cafe at the ski resort are closed. Other than the water in the lake, there are no good water sources past the last water source before El Puesto if heading in this direction. There is Entel 3G coverage here.
Day8
Started early to beat the heat for Antuco. I turned back after the top of the ski lift because of a stomach bug (probably food but still nicer to vomit in the shade...) but Tomáš went on to finish the climb. The climb was not worth it. The volcano is not black sand but rather loose rock (boulders to pebbles) which made especially going down annoying. A rock fell on my waling stick and partially destroyed it. After the ski lift there is virtually no trail. Plus the fact there was only a small crater on top and the weather was very hot and windy in the early morning. I think we were there during a small heat wave, supposedly the day before was 38°C in Antuco proper. After the climb we hitched to the campsite Lagunillas (10mil/person) in hopes of going back to Los Angeles but after analyzing the smoke situation of the forest fires we stayed here and used it as a base for preparing for GPT09-10.

It took us 168 hours but without climbing the volcanoes the trail could have been walked in five full walking days. End of January means there were virtually no horseflies.
Nice trip but due to foot issues, things breaking down and a stomach bug at the end, it was a bit of a suffer-fest for Natalie (Tomáš's new shoes are unfortunately painful too). However, the hotsprings, Volcán Chillán, Laguna Hermosa and the trees (especially the ones with usnea) made it worth while!

* '''2023-Feb-02 to 2023-Feb-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 08-C / Ondrej '''

Puente Inglés - Camping Las Lagunillas
Overall an extremely beautiful route, my favourite in GPT06-08. Compared to GPT06 and 07, this section felt most diverse but also most challenging to navigate. I accidentaly got off track much more often. Still, the route is visible most of the time except the last day after Laguna Hermosa. Even there, sticking to the gpx files makes the section easily passable. One just need to pay a higher attention to where their steps are placed. The fauna is quite rich too - I had a chance to see a tarrantula (the minor road on day 1), crayfish in the rivers, and a snake which I believe was Tachymenis chilensis (on the shores of Laguna El Roble). I believe this section is much more demanding in Dec or early Jan when snow is still present on the slopes. Horseflies were not a problem in my case. I encountered some between km 75 and 85 but that was far from frustrating. I recommend gaiters due to dusty roads in some sections. From thermas Chillan I haven’t met a soul until the end of the section.

Details:
On the first day, it is easy walking on a minor road that winds through a forest so you can enjoy shade most of the walk! No complications, just need to climb some gates. I enjoyed a company of a fellow GPT hiker Martial, who shared some useful trout fishing tips and gear with me. We camped at the Nuble crossing.

Second day, Nuble crossing was no problem. Knee-deep at the recommended ford. Then I got lost in the forest numerous time. Checking the gpx frequently definitely helped. I followed the advice of others to cross the river and find a path om the right upstream side. That worked really well, didn’t have to cross any fallen trees! I camped at the hot springs - it is actually a whole thermal river. Amazing, amazing place. Loved to lay in it and watch the stars. Quite a few other people were there (some arrieros and a Chilean family) but there really was enough space for everyone.

The third and fourth day were rather uneventful for me. Very beautiful views along the trail, which was mostly through forests and relatively simple to follow all the way to 2km before Los Peucos. Even there the trail was visible, it was just overgrown. I worried about this part too much based on the previous reports. The path actually felt quite okay in my case. Unfortunately, no soul at Los Peucos. I saw a parked car and a horse, but no human in the area. So I decided to walk 3km more and camp at the next river ford at km 66.4. I also took option C as recommeded by other hikers below, it was perfect!

The 5th day was easy up to the laguna El Roble. Then the climb is quite demanding. Most importantly, there is hardly any water between Laguna El Roble and km106.1. I found a little stream at km102.8 but I wouldn’t rely on it. My strategy was to drink about 1 liter at the laguna El Roble (I filtered the water there as the laguna didn’t seem that clear) and then I took 1.5l with me. It lasted me all the way to Laguna Hermosa. Maybe next time I would take only 1 liter. However, I felt safe to have the reserves. Once you get to the pass, the views are beautiful, as is Laguna Hermosa where I camped for the last night.

On the 6th day, I started from Laguna Hermosa at 8am and reached the main car road around 3pm. The trail after Hermosa disappears and requires a lot of attention to your GPS to navigate. The scree traverses are entirely manageable. I had to think twice before placing my feet though. The trail becomes visible and much easier at km115 when the valley trail connects. No one was at the puesto at km121.1, just three dogs. Trekking poles were enough to fend them off. There is indeed a new metal gate with a lock at approx km 126. No guards are positioned there. I climbed the gate without issues. I then hiked to Camping Lagunillas. There is a very kind owner and his son. Really good people to chat with. After listening to my story they also let me a cabana for a price of camping (10,000 CLP) for the night. The owner’s son is keen to learn more about the GPT and to potentially hike part of the route too. The camping has a small almacen there with some lentils and rice to buy (however, the selection is not enough to resupply). They also sell beer, cookies and can make you a soft dinner and breakfast (empanadas, lentils, waffles, coffee, sandwiches). I hitchhiked to Abanico the next day. It seems there are many more buses from Abanico to Antuco/Los Angeles than just two these days. The bus schedules could be looked up on the Internet. I caught one at 9:30am.

*2023-Jan-16 Frank RR SOBO 5 days

Crossed the river before Los Sauces where a dirt road goes right, crossing was only ankle deep. The cable car at Los Sauces is locked & there is often no one there. River is a lot deeper by the cable car (at least waist deep)

At Los Robles the carabineros were not very friendly, which was unusual, & were not too happy about me hiking solo, but after I told them I'd walked there from Santiago they allowed me to proceed. They had no info. about the activity level of Chillan. The 'shop' in Los Robles only had 2L bottles of soft drink & eggs. Rio Nuble was thigh deep late in the evening but you need to pick your spot: a few metres downstream from the RR crossing, before some boulders in the water. Camped a little after the crossing. Before Rio Nuble there is a no entry sign & locked gate but you can climb over it easily & there was no one there. Campsite marked on track file before the crossing was fenced off with no entry sign.

Coming down from the pass late on day 2 there is a cold water spring just before the hot waterfall. Filled up at the spring as the water in the valley is thermal, not sure if it's good to drink. Camped in the valley by the hot stream.

At the CONAF hot springs it was 14,000 CLP to camp but they allowed me to use the hot bath for free. They have a shop but most items are too bulky for one person. I continued for about 10KM & camped in a 3 sided hut 100M to the right off the road before a wide but easy ford. The hut has a dirt floor so you can pitch a tent inside. After Laguna Roble you climb to a pass & there is a spring a little after the pass. I camped just before the spring (room for one small tent, had to clear away some rocks but it was OK) The traverse after the aerials was a bit sketchy but soon improved & I picked up a tiny trail through the scree. Walked to the CONAF entrance gate on the road & hitched out from there. There is a lot of traffic on the weekend.

* '''2023-Jan-13 to 2023-Jan-18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Start in Termas the Chillan opt. 2 than RR from 40km to 105.9 and finished using opt. 6. / Maks&Gabi '''

Trail is visible almost all the time. All the fords are easily passable. We had met arrieros 3 times, they were nice and helpful. One of them asked about why we are hiking, as there is a lot of people going this way, but he seemed to be okay with it.
There is a lot of really horseflies especially between 83 and 93 km.
There were also quite a lot of cows on trail, that were not so happy to see us, but we just walked around them (with some bigger distance). Be careful as the bulls seem to be very protective over the small ones.

Option 06A is probably overgrown - we spent about 15 min trying to find the trail but we gave up after all ( it was about 300m after crossroad ).
Gate on 8.6km of option 6 was locked with the padlock, but noone was there so we just walked over the fence.

All other gates on all trail were easily passable. One of the arrieros just noted that we should close them after crossing.
From the hydro powerplant till the end of the option 06B there were a lot of people working on a road but none of them seemed to have a problem with us being there.
We hitch hiked to Antuco.
It was our first try on the GPT (recommended by a local mountain guide from Termas de Chillan) and it was definitely worth it!

* '''2023-Jan-03 to 2023-Jan-08 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Probably my favorite section so far! A nice mix of remote alpine stretches, forests, and fields. However the horseflies made it hard to appreciate at times, they were pretty much constant during the later section around Laguna Laha.

I hitched from San Fabián around noon and did most of the road walk the first day. The campsite at 21.6 is fenced off. I stayed at 20.3 which didn't have great water access, just a muddy spring. Scrambling down to the river wasn't feasible but I found a bit of clean flow partway down.
The Nuble crossing wasn't so bad for me, it was just below my waist (5'11/181cm). Still the hardest one so far. I found the trail afterwords pretty hard to follow, with lots of side paths eventually leading to thorny bushwhacking. It finally convinced me to pull the route up on my watch for the first time, definitely worth it here.
A ways after the river crossing you'll come out of the woods into an open river valley. I recommend crossing the stream there and finding the path on the other side, instead of struggling through the blowdown/landslide debris along the gpx track.
The trail was fairly slow from the Nuble crossing to los Peucos. After that it's super fast except for a few stretches in the mountains above the Laguna Laha.
The natural hot springs just below the pass near the Volcan Chillan were very nice, but full of little flies. They didn't seem to bite.
The camping at los peucos was very expensive, but they had a bit of food for sale (fruit!!). Comfy grass, wifi, well maintained bathrooms. The hot springs there were too hot for me, slightly painful.
I missed option C and definitely regretted it. The road up was super rocky, and hot with no shade.
The stretch above Laguna Laha was the driest I've passed so far. Thankfully there were a few snow fed streams/ponds left, but I should have carried more water to be safe. Laguna Hermosa was true to its name, a nice place to camp my last night.
The main road at the end was pretty busy, you could hitch right away and skip the entire last 13ish km. But the extra little stretch of trail at the end was definitely worth it to me.
It took me a while to get a ride to Antuco even though the road was busy. Most people were just going a bit further along. It's not the nicest town but there's decent selection for resupply. I got a room for 15k/night at a cabana/hostal place on Sgto. Aldea street. For some reason I didn't have cell service there, with Movistar.

* '''2023-Jan-01 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option C / Martin & Helena'''

We took bus from San Fabian (corner on the other side of the gas station) in the afternoon, and camped after ford of Los Sauces river (water only to the ankles). A lot of annoying tabanos, but plenty of space to camp. Quite a lot of locals go there as well. The next day we continued to the ford or Rio Nuble that turned out to be the worst so far for us. Doing it in the afternoon was not the best idea - the current was strong and even when it was just waist-high, we were not able to pass through the fastest part where the path takes you. We figured out to go more upstream, but just like 30m maybe? to a point where the water was really deep but completely calm. There is a rock wall on the other side. The water reached our chest at that part and our hands holding poles were under the water, making it hard to gain stability. We decided to take our chances and try to cross, using rocks covered with some grass to gain traction. There were times when we were floating in the water with close to 0 stability but we eventually made it. Best to be there early to have the best possible conditions. Until the end of the day we managed to get up through the forrest. Before you get out of the forrest you are crossing a stream that is going down between the rocks, but if you take a minute or two before it path that goes lower than trail, you will find a nice spot by the water with some wooden bench and nice covered place to camp. We prefered to be out of the forrest so we continued, but found only a field of fallen trees caused by landslide. It was possible to find a place to camp closer to the river. It is best to continue on the other side, which we did the next day. You will soon connect to the trail again, before going up.

The way up from the valley is quite steep. From the pass you get a nice view of the Chillan volcano. Going further down to the lava field, we followed advices of others and get up to the top of lava field right away and continued walking on it. After the pass you will find a valley with hot springs which are simply amazing. Good to plan camping there so you can enjoy it fully. From the valley the trail is clear, until a short section before the official camp (1-2 kms before it), where it’s more of a bush-bashing. This part starts near a puesto where we came across herd of young bulls that seemed to be more curious that we would like and we had to go around them, a little off the trail. We struggled a little to find our way into the camp, which was not so clear from our gps (eventhough the path is clear all the way to the river) - the camp is secured by wire fences that we wanted to avoid, but at the end we crawled under them to get to the camp, aprox. according to our gps. If you follow the river downstream you might get to the official gate / entrance, not sure. Like other mentioned the price is quite high, and so are things in the little shop - most of it are classic camping things that last long like pasta, rice, canned fruits, a lot of cookies… but we were grateful for it anyway. The hot springs there are also amazing, man-made stone pools, with the view of the stars in the night it is perfect and worth the price. There are maybe 10 dedicated places to camp with wooden desk and bench, covered by roof (good when it’s raining). More space is close to the showers and the common, shared house with kitchen, fireplace and again desks with benches. We met there some workers from a gas company, fixing pipes close to the laguna, who were sleeping in the camp. The guy watching over the camp (from CONAF) was also nice and helpful - if you need anything, this is the right person to ask.

On the next day, we continued on the minor road, where we took the C option, like others. Following the RR we found the 08-E option (which follows the MR) to be a better choice since the RR is a little overgrown in the beginning and with thistle-vegetation. Easy pass in the forest, and nice places to camp in the valley. We were lucky to find their cows again (luckily on the other side of the river), but bulls woke us up in the morning - this must have been the fastest packing in the history. We enjoyed more fun with the cows and bulls later in the valley, that were blocking our way and refusing to go away - that made us to take another short detour around them.

A lot has been already written about the last part of this section that takes you up to the plateau. The climb is quite steep and long so don’t forget to take water from the last laguna - that is the last option. The next stream we found was about 2 kms from the point where you reach the ridge. We camped before Laguna Hermosa with nice view of the volcano. There was some melting snow above the laguna and we found 4G signal there (where the pole is). We found the descent down to be quite ok, there are small slippery rocks so it’s necessary to be careful, but nothing too bad. The descent gets very dusty later (when it’s dry) and is still steep in the forrest with a lot of water from the snow. We got to the main road in the afternoon and were lucky to catch a ride all the way to Antuco. We booked the only available place we found on booking called Puelche de Antuco, a really nice cabin. The town is nice with a lot of restaurants and shops.

* '''2022-Dec-28 to 2023-Jan-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Los Sauces - Antuco / Anna & Christopher '''

We took the bus at 6 pm from San Fabián to Los Sauces and camped next to the river.

The path until the river crossing of Rio Ñuble is basically a dirtroad, so we got there pretty fast. Only the horseflies were very annoying. We recommend bringing insect repellent.
Christopher is 1.88m and the water went up to his navel at the main route crossing. Anna with 1.63m was not able to cross the river there.
After some tries we found a possibility a couple of hundred meters upstream, where the water just went up to Anns knees. The tough part was to get up to the path on the other side. After some bush bashing, you have to get up a 3 to 4 meter high, almost vertical slope. We found a tree, whose roots we used to climb up, which was not super easy. Once you are up there, there is a good path that leads to the main route.

The next day was nice until the valley around km 25 (where the river is not correctly positioned in the gaia app). There are tons of fallen trees and it was really hard to get through and there was mostly no visible path. It's probably best to stick to the upstream right side of the river.
Afterwards the path gets really nice. Especially in the evening sun, it was very beautiful to cross the volcanic landscape. We camped in the valley at km 40 at the hot springs.

The third day has a good path at the beginning. Just the last 3 km it gets more difficult, especially approx. 2 km before Los Peucos, where it's mostly bush bashing.
The camping at Los Peucos is nice, as well as the hot springs, but we had to pay 14k CLP p.p. to camp there and in the evening there are tons of mosquitos. We would have camped a bit further downstream, if we had known that to be honest.

The next day we took option C, like Veronica suggested, to avoid an unnecessary climb. Then we made an unnecessary climb following the road and not the main path, because we couldn't find the entry to the path right away and feared more bush bashing. But the path looked great from above.
The rest of the route until shortly after Laguna Hermosa was really good. There is not much snow left and therefore there are not a great many places to fill up water.
After Laguna Hermosa the path gets very hard to cross, due to lots of stones and gravel without a visible path.
But it's very beautiful up there and finally not hot anymore.
The descend has a easy to find path but is pretty slippery. Once you pass that the rest is pretty easy until the road, from where we hitchhiked to Antuco. We stayed at Camping Rucue for 15k CLP the camping lot. You pay for the lot not per person.

* '''2022-Dec-14 to 2022-Dec-19 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + GPT08-02 / Véronica '''

Route: Los Sauces - Río Ñuble crossing - backtrack to Los Sauces - hitch to Termas se Chillán (GPT08 option 2) - Los Peucos - Laguna Laja - Laguna Hermosa - CONAF near Abanico

San Fabian is a great place, loved swimming in the Ñuble River when it got hot. The owner of Cabañas San Fabian is super kind. I hitched back to the trail because I didn't want to wait all day for the bus that leaves at 6pm.

Registered with the carabineros at El Roble, but I could not ford Río Ñuble at the RR crossing. Current was very strong, and has I been able to stand up in it, the water would have easily reached my chest (I'm165 cm). I tried several times to ford the river at three different places, several km apart from each other, with no success. I would advance in the stream until I felt I couldn't take another step without being swept, and couldn't get halfway across. I suppose I should have expected this - it's a very high snow year and mid-December. I even tried calling out for help at the puesto on the west side of the river near the "no trespassing" gates, but no one was there. The long walk back to Los Sauces felt very defeating. Also, the "wooden bridges" described by Jo and Veronika are actually only cable crossings, and inaccessible by two barbed wire fences. Not possible to cross the river there either. Ríos Los Sauces and Las Truchas only came up mid-thigh though.

Regained the GPT at Termas de Chillán, Option 2. Basicall took almost the whole second day to hitch there. Beautiful trail, but steep. You get to ford hot creeks, which was pretty cool.

The trail is overgrown in some places, the worst spot is between the last puesto before Los Peucos and Los Peucos. Very hard walking through, wished I had a machete. Only lasts a km or two thankfully. All three puestos before Los Peucos looked abandoned.

Didn't meet anyone at Los Peucos since I got there fairly early in the morning, but the hot springs there are amazing. Really hot, clear water, a little stone pool in a garden. Loved spending time there.

Taking GPT08-C avoids a pointless climb and descent on the regular route, and has a nice path the whole way.

Trail gets more difficult once you start climbing up to the ridge after Laguna El Roble. The views are incredible though, absolutely spectacular. Lots of water sources up on the ridge due to many lingering snow patches. Most of them are not a problem. After the junction with GPT08-06, the trail kind of disappears. Keep an eye on the GPS as you climb and descend steeply on the slopes. It reappears again after the following camp and water waypoints.

Laguna Hermosa still has a couple snow patches on its shores, cold place to camp, but beautiful. After Laguna Hermosa is where it gets really challenging. There is no trail afterwards that I could find, basically cross country the whole way to the TR at 116.8 km. As you approach the "trailhead" waypoint, there is LOTS of scree traverses, and steep snow patches which require microspikes or extreme clambering to get around. Treacherous in some places. I fell a couple times. The ground is very loose and unstable. Things get better actually once you reach the official cross country section at Laguna Lágrima. Still some steep bits, but the ground is more consolidated, and there's more bedrock to help with traction. I reccomend taking the optional route CC-08-H. There's a faint trail to follow and it avoids clambering up on the ridge.

Very glad to see a clear track again at 116.8. But still some problematic snow fields in this stretch above Laguna Toro, where it was too steep even with microspikes, and I had to do some very careful/serious climbing around. Not fun. Fell again here. Once you reach the long descent into Valle de los Carpinteros it gets much better. Still some snow in the woods over the creek. Right now you can walk on top of it like an ice bridge. There clearly was a LOT of snow here this past winter, it lingers until 1750 m or so in the south-facing valley.

The puesto at 121.1 looks abandonned too. Lots of downed trees in the area. There was no one, and no metal gate (or any gate) whatsoever before reaching the road in the National Park.

The 4 days from Volcán Chillán to the end of the section, I saw no other human. I found this section also to be harder than GPT06, especially the last day. The snow complicates things. If you wish to avoid dangerous clambering and sketchy snow and scree traverses, take Option 06. The trail is good before then.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan-28 to 2022-Feb-06 / 10 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo'''

Los Sauces -> banks of Rio Ñuble -> hot springs at flanks of Chillan (-> escape to Concepción via Termas de Chillan to buy new shoes -> hot springs at flanks of Chillan) -> Los Peucos -> camp before Laguna Laja -> Laguna Hermosa -> camping Lagunillas (6 proper hiking days)

Nice section again. Hot springs in the first half, beautiful views of Laguna Laja, Volcán Antuco, Siella Veluda in the second half. Laguna Hermosa is true to its name, and was the first to not have horse or cow droppings on its sandy shores :D Sad to not have crossed Molly and Melissa.

- The lady at the cable car was not sure whether we could cross with our heavy backpacks, so we forded the river at Los Sauces.

- From about km 20 the sides of the road are fenced. The camp at km 21.6 is no longer available.

- There is a gate at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206' (blocking access to the trail) marked private, no entry. We saw some cars returning through a second gate (blocking access to the river) and asked if it was ok to cross the first gate. They said "For you, sure." I get the impression that Chileans rather want to keep Chileans out... This gate is not a problem NOBO.

- Fording Rio Ñuble was the deepest ford we ever did. Balls deep indeed! Quite doable though, as the water is clear.

- There may be an alternative path on the western bank, starting at the wooden bridges at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206'. Some local at the San Fabián tourist office mentioned having hiked this way.

- The trail at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206' (around km 30) has eroded. After searching, we had to push through some bushes on a steep ridge to continue the trail. Maybe more obvious NOBO.

- At the start of the cross country at km 34.6 get to the top of the lava strip after fording the river. For us, this was easiest at S 36° 52.853', W 071° 18.793'.

- The water at the camp at km 37.3 was mostly dried up. Don't count on it by the end of January.

- The bus stop at Termas de Chillan is close go Hotel Nevados de Chillan. There are way more buses at Las Trancas de Chillan, 8 km down the road. Fortunately, the whole area has great 4G coverage with Entel, so you can look up the bus tables with the key words "REM bus Termas de Chillan".

- The CONAF camp Los Peucos has excellent hot springs and a mini shop. Camping costs 10.000 pp. The guards are very friendly and donated some fruit :)

- The CC section around km 95 had a clear path, but the subsequent TL section before Laguna El Roble did not.

- The trail after Laguna Hermosa was hard to find, we went quite slowly clambering on the loose scree or sand. Going down the mountain ridge at the end of the CC section was similarly difficult. Fell twice - could not find solid footing on the slope.

- The lady at the puesto at km 121.6 was friendly, asked where we came from, went to, and pointed us to the exit road. She seemed friendly, but a subtle hint to "please stay off my land" would have been lost on us in translation. The new metal gate is easy to pass through. The CONAF guard's wife at the final CONAF post mentioned that we were hiking the "sendero biologico" when we mentioned Laguna Hermosa. This trail must pass over the lady's land too?

- The ATM at Antuco is broken.

- Supermercado Santa Teresa in Antuco sells 125ml bottles of alcohol desnaturalizado 96° in the nail polish section.v

* '''2022-Jan-24 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH Cerro Las Águilas / Molly and Melissa'''

At the "gate" waypoint, we actually met two men installing a new metal gate. They told us we needed permission to pass, and that the owner would come by shortly. We talked to her, and at first she was very determined not to let us through. I don't know what convinced her - we showed her our garbage bag and shovel to show we would leave no trace, we told about the gpt and how far we had walked. She also expressed concern for her animals being disturbed, or that we would get lost. We then showed her our personal locator beacon, and she finally softened and told us we could go through if we payed 5000 pesos each and continued all the way to Laguna Hermosa, past her lands, before we made camp. She also owns the puesto marked on the route. If going northbound and wanting to avoid a potential conflict, it might be better to take the option along the ridge.

We took the bus to Abanico and hitched to the national park, not the easiest as all the cars were full. The car was stopped at the entrance, and we had to explain our route. We weren't asked to pay, probably because we weren't really going to the national park. You walk a little through it though on some nice paths, and then you reach a gravel road. Shortly after, at the "gate" waypoint, we actually met two men installing a new metal gate. They told us we needed permission to pass, and that the owner would come by shortly. We talked to her, and at first she was very determined not to let us through. I don't know what convinced her - we showed her our garbage bag and shovel to show we would leave no trace, we told about the gpt and how far we had walked. She also expressed concern for her animals being disturbed, or that we would get lost. We then showed her our personal locator beacon, and she finally softened and told us we could go through if we payed 5000 pesos each and continued all the way to Laguna Hermosa, past her lands, before we made camp. She also owns the puesto marked on the route. If going northbound and wanting to avoid a potential conflict, it might be better to take the option along the ridge.
As noted previously, after climbing to the ridge on the rr, the terrain is difficult, but the views are amazing. Not a lot of water, but we managed. Many of the campsites off route, including Laguna Hermosa, require quite a climb down.
You stay high up quite a while, which gives amazing views.

The cross country along Laguna Laja has a nice path all the way. Then you reach Patricio's puesto. He's very welcoming, and has had people stay in his puesto before. We just drank coffee with him though. His brother German lives in the valley right after Laguna el Roble, but his puesto is hidden in the trees.

Alternative route Cerro Las Águilas
We chose the Cerro las Águilas alternative, because Volcán Chillán was in yellow alert. While walking there, we met two carabineros on horseback who wanted to know which way we went. Don't know if they would have forbidden the rr. The ascent to Laguna el Lobo is through deep sand, it was very tough and took way longer than we thought. We ended up camping at the Laguna which was nice enough. The ascent from there of the first little hill seemed completely unnecessary to us, at least if you have been by the laguna, as you descend to the same level. It would be worth it to walk to the right and ascend directly on the brown mountain, following the GPS from there. The ridge walk was tough as well, a lot of scrambling. The GPS often wanted us to go right of the rocky tops, where going left or directly over often seemed easier/safer. There is no water until the valley between the two passes. There, we also found a nice campsite right after the big stream on the bottom, a little to the left.
After reaching Rio Ñuble, you follow it for a long time. There are multiple streams running towards it where we had to take off our shoes - no lack of water here, though. The alternative also fords Rio Ñuble itself in a different location compared to the rr - we had no problems whatsoever there. It reached mid-thigh and wasn't too strong, and we are both around 160 cm. It is a very low snow year though, and very dry. Here would be a nice place to camp.

After rejoining the rr, we decided to continue to the waypoint "camp". That was a mistake, though, as everything around there is fenced in with big signs saying "private property". The second campsite right after is not fenced in, but doesn't look that good on the first glance. The rest of the way to Puente Ingles is gravel road. El Roble has a house that sells sodas - it has a "bebidas" sign.
We crossed Rio Los Sauces beneath the cable cars quite easily, the water was mid-thigh - again very dry year.

Puente Ingles
In Puente Ingles we stayed at a campsite a little north of the cable car crossing, marked on the map in Locus Maps as "lugar". It is 10,000 per tent, there are bathrooms, cold showers and tables. They also have a cabaña which was occupied. Puente Ingles has a small shop with sodas, ice cream, tortillas, biscuits, coffee and chips. It is quite nice to bath in the river. The bus still leaves at 7 and 10 in the morning.

* '''2021-Dec-15 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

Beautiful view of volcán Antuco when walking up towards the ridge line by Laguna Laja and a staying at Los Peucos camping site was a big highlight on my journey on the GPT. Had my dinner in their wonderful hot spring while staring at the clear starlit sky in the cool night. Two nice guys working here and they even donated me some pasta, fruits and vegetables. Walking near the active Chillán Volcano and watching the fumaroles while being circled by a group of condors was also a cool experience.

With that said, this section kicked my ass. Mainly due to some bad fitting shoes I recently bought in Los Ángeles and because I suffered from bad chafing in my butt which made me walk like I had shit my pants for a couple of days. This combined with some tough terrain (specially near Laguna Laja) and countless of horseflies made this section quite challenging for me. But definitely worth it!

Like mentioned by hikers in the previous years fording Rio Ñuble can be a bit demanding especially for shorter people. It was getting late when I reached the river so I decided to camp nearby and cross the river in the morning. Had water up to the balls (i’m 189cm) and the current a bit strong but it was not too bad.
Hitched a ride from Puente El Ingles to San Fabian and later jumped on a bus to Chillán to buy new shoes once again. Room with private bathroom for 15.000 at hostal El Molino in San Fabian, nice lady who owns the place.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''*2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck'''
Volcan Chillán remains active. The regular route passes the crater closely therefore Option 1 appears currently the saver if someone does not want skip section GPT08 completely. This option passes the danger zone with more distance. In case of an eruption volcanic ash is likely to affect Option 1 but the risk of direct volcanic effects is lower (flash flood from melting snow and glaciers, land slides, lava and flying rocks).

* '''2019-Dec-30 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes + Tobias'''

Overview:
Just want to say quick that the termas vapaors in Mèdano are worth checking out, I highly recommend them. Please consider checking them out, they are only ½ km off the trail and absolutely worth it. They are sauna boxes built around a few hot rocks emitting hot steam. The result is a steam room/ sauna experience. I personally spend over 4 hours chilling out in the steam rooms.
After a 2-hour road walk on the side of the highway you make your way back on trial. This section takes you thru many areas used for grazing livestock with puestos in sight almost all the time. Carizales a small settlement right on trail has a small store and the family also sells bread. There was also a puesto that sold us fresh goat cheese and Coca Cola. It is marked as a waypoint on the GPX file about 20km south of Carizales. Much of the trail is very dry and exposed and the landscape is void of trees and vegetation. There are many great places to jump into the river and cool off. The section up and around the lake offers great views of the mountains, volcanoes nearby and Laguna Dial. The trail itself is well established and never had any real trouble navigation. There were also quite a few hot springs on trail or close by.

Difficulties: Hot and Exposed (especially in summertime). Resupply Distance.

Highlights: Hot springs. Great sweeping views. Pools of cool water to jump into in the middle of the day.

Please feel free to reach out and ask me any questions at Ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-20 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option l start south OH 08 - 02 / Martin '''

Solo. Because I was not allowed to walk close to the Volcanoe by the carabineros, following the RR, had to take the optional start south OH 08 - 02, in Nevados de Chillán Ski Resort. Funny enough, I walked the first day across the volcanoe anyway, it had some smoke coming out but nothing dangerous happened. Then followed RR to the end. Cross country segments in the ridge close to Laguna del Laja were demanding and not ideal for a solo hiker. But it was worth the effort, one of the most amazing views I have seen so far. Beautiful section. Resupplied and stayed for one night in Abanico.

* '''2020-Jan-05 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR /Ty & America '''

Can ford river @ los sauces easily rather than walking from Puente Ingles. Cable Car was all
Locked up. Registration @ El Roble like the others. We camped at the hot rivers close to Volcan Chillan and I fucked up with the gasoline in my stove. Buzzkill...: but Fortunately there was an exit to Termas De Chillan close. We got rides easily from the road.

* '''2020-Jan-03 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Starting at El Ingles and hiking southbound towards Abanico. Lovely section however can be slow at times when the track is hard to follow.
We had to register with the Carabineros at El Roble. Before crossing Rio Nuble there is a large gate with ‘private property: no entry’ written on it. We found this off putting. The river crossing itself was fine in the early morning but could be challenging without trekking poles and with a very heavy pack.
After the Laguna de La Laja the track becomes especially more challenging and rocky. In poor weather it could be dangerous given the slippery slopes and steep descents.
We honestly found this section harder than GPT06 and would swap the difficulty ratings.
Took a bus into Los Angeles at 5pm to resupply for the next section. Did not investigate Abanico as we caught the bus as it was leaving.

* '''2020-Jan-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional hike along Laguna de la Laja / Martina & Ivo '''

Los Sauces to Abanico.

Los Sauces: If you tell the bus driver you want to cross the river by cable car (carro azul) he honks at the bus stop and señor Marcial comes from the other side to get you.
Ford Rio Ñuble: If you are a dwarf like me, you should ask your taller hiking partner to carry your backpack, otherwise it will get wet. Demanding.
Volcan Chillan: PLEASE NOTE: We were absolutely aware that our buddy Volcano could erupt or explode at ANY GIVEN MOMENT and that this was NOT a SAFE option to hike. (But it was beautiful! ...and a bit overgrown in some places. There is not much of the trail left before the first pass.)
Laguna de la Laja: It was beautiful but we definitively wouldn't recommend it. There is no trail along the Laguna. At the beginning you can walk on cow tracks close to the waterfront. Afterwards it's 15 km of cross country. The 3 km into the third inlet took us 3 hours and were really dangerous because of loose rocks and steep cliffs. The following investigation part (@08-04-#002) was mainly a quite nice trail, but we lost it twice and it took us ages to find it again, and in this steep and not very easy terrain you don't want to loose the trail. We were really glad when we got back to the regular route.
From Abanico there are several buses per day going directly to Los Angeles. Resupply in Abanico is possible.

* '''2019-Dec-30 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 1 / Matus & Anna '''

We had to register in Carabinieros. They didn't have a problem with leting us go even regular route, seemed like eventual crossing to Argentina is their primary issue.
Optional 1 - to the juction with valley walk without problem. Cross coutry part on the ridge was easy to navigate. On downhill there is no trail so we went crosscountry again. It's bit overgrown in some spots, we found trail cca after half of descend. Last flowing water is before juction with valley walk. We saw some water holes cca 2-3km before Laguna de Lobo.
Rest of the regular trail - cross coutry sections were demanding. Otherwise no problem.
We got hitch to Los Angeles after CONAF station so no idea about resuply or accomodation.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019-Jan-13 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Lizondo '''
Volcán Chillán was in "alerta naranja".
Río Ñuble impassable at S36° 50.188' W71° 14.935' Better continue following the minor road in the alternative route.<br />
When hiking the alternative east route (Paso Aguila) do not descend to the valley at S36° 57.919' W71° 14.752'. It's unmantained and overgrounded, because of recent forest fires. Better stay above the tree line until Laguna El Lobo.<br />

=Resupply and Accommodation=

*Abanico
At least one restaurant with pizza
Store?

*Antuco (from Abanico)
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants. March 2024: Good Accomodation with a nice Mapuche family in a single room, shared bath with hot shower, washing machine and including breakfast 18000 peso: Fanny, +56 9 9404 4771.
There is an ATM (Fee: 5500)at the town square southend of town which even gives some smaller notes.
Bus to Los Angeles

*Camping Parque Antuco :
10k for camping. Cabañas also. Nice calm place, swimming pool, shade. Electricity and hot showers. Homemade empanadas. Bernabe the owner is really kind and know about the GPT. His number +56 9 9507 2559.

*Puente Ingles
Store with chips, ice cream, bread, chocolate, sodas. Possibly some accomodation option at the store. Campground with one cabaña a little further down the room - sign says cabañas - 10,000 per tent, toilets with cold showers and a room with a fireplace for cooking

*San Fabián (from Puente Ingles)
Many accommodation options - almost everything was fully booked when we were there (Feb 2022).
Supermercado La Montaña seems to be the best option - not the easiest place to resupply, but definitely possible. Harder than in Antuco.
Great Venezuelan restaurant Canela Passion.
Bus to San Carlos

*San Fabian - Fev 2025 (Clara) :
- Very good resupply possible in the supermarket Los Alvis.
- Accomodation : cabaña nativa : very nice cabanas clean, big confortable bed, climatisation, kitchen, pools, jacuzzi. 35k for a 2 persons cabaña (for 1 person). Just in front when you go out, there is a place where you can buy very good tortillas de rescoldo and pan amasado. Lots of restaurants.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

* 2025 - 02 : there are direct buses from Chillan to San Fabian. Then San Fabian to Puente Ingles. Buses at 2 pm and 6 p.m. in front of the carabineros including Sundays and Holidays.

*Puente Ingles to San Fabián
Bus at 7 am and 10 am - leaves from the campground, drives to the shop and the back again towards San Fabián

*Bus from Antuco to Los Angeles about once an hour in daytime.

*A few buses from Abanico to Antuco or you can hitch fairly easily.

* Jan-24 / Joscha

Bus from Chillan (Terminal La Merced) a Thermas de Chillan at 8 am and 2 pm (weekends at 1:30 pm) for 3900 Pesos. The buscompany is "Rembus". Their Website isn't up to date, but you can check their Facebook page for informationen.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
* At the puesto (120,6/1513), the owner does not want us to pass through his land (as of 02/02/2025). He clearly stated that it is private property. It might now be preferable to take a detour through BB, passing well to the right beforehand and rejoining the path well after his house (which was under construction with many tents around it at that time)? (Peggy)

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT08 - Volcán Chillan]]

=Images=

[[File:Segundo_Rio_Termal_zona_cascadas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|This river is hot! Aguas Calientes Valley]]
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (8).jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Laguna Laja and [[Volcán Antuco]], by Matúš Lašan]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-04-13T06:38:49Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina tostada) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to resupply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money exchange), by the border control. Another one just in front.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek below the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp.

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-04-13T06:22:02Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina tostada) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to resupply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money exchange), by the border control. Another one just in front.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp.

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-04-13T06:19:00Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to resupply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money exchange), by the border control. Another one just in front.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp.

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2026-04-13T06:17:04Z

OriolGirona:

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2026-04-13T06:15:22Z

OriolGirona:

GPT08 (Volcan Chillan)

2026-04-13T06:14:20Z

OriolGirona: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''</nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span><nowiki>'''</span></nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT 8 + 9 | 12/22-12/27 | 6 Days | 08 Option 2A, RR, Variant E, 08 Option 7, 7B, RR, 09 RR, Variant B, Variant C, RR, 09 Option 4, Variant G, RR '''

Wow a mouthful.
Started from Las Trancas after waiting out bad weather. Met some dudes at Camping Los Peucos, gifted me a fishing rod (does anyone have info on permit situations?)
Explored Option 7 along Rio Polcura, definitely some bushwhacking along the trail, but there is a trail, just really overgrown. Beautiful river.
7B is just minor road.
Christmas in Abanico. Stayed at camping 1km out of town. 10k CLP for night, can have fire, bathrooms. Shop was open, ate 5 hotdogs.
Call (+56971304096) for a ride out of Abanico, or wherever. Very nice guy, charges 1k CLP per Kilometer. Was 9k to start of trailhead, even waited while I paid CONAF.
Climb up Sendero Sería Velluda was calm, but CC was kinda tough. Bad winds at pass, and rest of day. Opted to follow Valley Route to avoid bad winds, very beautiful.
Rejoined RR for final descent, though was kinda sketchy at points. Nothing too bad.
Here in Trapa Trapa, nothing is open unfortunately.

'''2026 February 25 to March 4 / 5.5 days + 2 rest days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2A, RR (+variant F), OH-4 (+variants A and C) / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT 08 from Termas Chillan (4 days) with GPT 09 (1.5 days), plus 2 rest days due to bad weather (hosted in a Puesto at 08-04A, turned to be the highlight of this section)

Bus from Chillan at 2pm (final stop, same place as Emily quoted previously), Camp after ford 08-2A (1.6/2097). Hot river with nice 'pools'.

Los Peucos. Rangers were there (if sprinklers are open, they are around). Recommended (just to clarify previous post, a sign in termales says 'prohibido aseo personal' so no soaps or shampoo there, but allowed to use termales anytime.

Section 08-04 ends at section 09 (RR km 29) that I followed.

Fords were straightforward, trails easy to follow. No horseflies (and almost no cows).

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5 (note: this is my first section in GPT)

'''2026-Feb-5 to 2026-Feb-8 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2A, RR, Variants C and F, OH-4, OH-4C / Emily'''

I combined GPT8 and 9, from Termas de Chillan to Trapa Trapa. I joined GPT9 at ~29.2km (intersection with 08-04) at midday of Day 4 (4.5 days total).

Highlights were Los Peucos termas and Option 4, particularly the ridge and final 10km coming into GPT9. Challenges included occasional BB to avoid agitated cows. Attractiveness - 4/5, Difficulty, 2/5.

Camps
Night 1: Los Peucos (64.2/1191).

Night 2: -37.216593, -71.304660. Flat, gravel (lumpy), no protection. Great view. Water at lake or stream 150m along RR.

Night 3: -37.375702, -71.254774. Flat, sandy, no protection. Water available at previous river (~800m before).

* Several campsites on OH-2A just after ford 08-2A (1.6/2097) (rock hop) and following unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin (quite hot). These are on gravel, but away from the herd of cows that were hanging around the camp at 42.6/2087.
* No issues with fords. Ford at 48.7/1334 was only crotch height for entry (165cm), and after a couple steps became shallower, below the knee.
* Highly recommend stopping or camping at Los Peucos. I camped next to a small sheltered hut with a table, benches, fire pit and metal grill. Termas were great and clean. Site was as described in previous 25/26 reports; closed, no ranger/fee, but seemingly okay to camp. Only one other group of equestrian tourists there.
* I found Kris and Stinna’s report below really helpful for OH-4 - thank you! The lake level for Laguna del Laja is now a lot lower; I was able to skirt the coast for the entirety of the first 12.5km, and was able to cross at Option 4C where marked and without fording. If you fancy a swim, I recommend jumping in within the first 10km of Option 4; thereafter the water is murkier/looked less inviting.

Transport: I caught the bus to Terma de Chillan as per the schedule posted by Volker below, 3.900clp. The final stop (-36.91088, -71.42120), is 2km from the OH-2A trailhead. I was fortunate to stay for free at the staff accomm of a girl I met on the bus - accomm is otherwise very expensive and I couldn’t see any good stealth camp spots.

* '''GPT08 | 2026-01-04 to 2026-01-09 I 5,5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant F - RR - Variant G - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1:
I hitchhiked from San Fabián and was very lucky. Some people took me to the waypoint where the trail to Salto Las Minas starts. I started after midday with the hike and crossed Río Ñuble about 1.5 km upstream from the RR ford (-36.843437, -71.236798). The crossing was easy, water up to knee height.
I completely avoided bushbashing by crossing Estero El Quebrado at -36.856431, -71.275622, where there is a trail. I returned to the RR at -36.858428, -71.279562, as suggested by Martin (thanks!).
Camp: -36.865234, -71.290436. Dusty place, water about 150 m away.

Day 2:
The hot spring [40.6/2173] was excellent. I had lunch there and took a long bath. Crossing Río Diguillín was easy, but water reached waist height. There are probably better crossing points.
Camp: -36.963371, -71.397603, next to the river.

Day 3:
I hiked to Termas Los Peucos and arrived around midday. Two groups of men with horses were there. They told me the place has been abandoned for some time, but camping and using the hot pools is no problem. Later they left, and I had the whole place to myself.
Camped at the Los Peucos campsite.

Day 4:
All river crossings were easy. The worst part was the horseflies. From midday until evening, they were constantly around me.
Camp: -37.15623, -71.319804, grassy spot, many horseflies.

Day 5:
I had a very nice lunch break and swim at Laguna El Roble. When I reached the mountain pass, I noticed a thunderstorm approaching from behind. I was on the ridge with no option to descend quickly. I waited about two hours under bushes for protection until the storm passed.
Camp: -37.233919, -71.402365. Nice grassy spot, water a bit away.

Day 6:
I hiked down to Central El Toro and had lunch at Río Polcura. After that, I followed a long minor road to the point Bus {08-J} [2.9/734], from where I hitchhiked to Antuco.
Accommodation: Cabañas Puelche

'''2025-12-23 to 2025-12-26 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 and 04a / Martin Ankel'''

Day 01

Hitchhiked from San Fabian to Los Sauce, after 3 hours of waiting and many false alarms (people only going a few kilometers outside of San Fabian) I struck gold. Joseph and Mattias stopped, they where going to the Saltos Las Minas waterfal and drove me all the way, thereby I could avoid horsefly highway and some unnecessary road walking.

There is a new gate here [ 36.819694, 71.253476] that clearly says private property, no passing allowed. Luckily, I’m a good climber.

Fording at {08} [23.8 / 950] was waist deep (I’m 180 cm), not overly rapid and footing was good. Easy if you know how to ford properly. You can also probably find better places to ford.

The bush bashing at the ~28 km is mostly not bush bashing, largely there is a good trail, and the small section that actually is bush bashing can easily be avoided as there runs a trail on the opposite side of the river, I forded here [36.856910, 71.276356] but you should ford about 100 meters downstream or so, just follow the trail. I then walked the trail on the other side of the river, forded again here [36.858428, 71.279562], again follow the trail, and connected back to the regular route. I recommend rerouting the route for next year based on my GPS recording.

The hot spring (or hot river) at [40.6/2173] was absolutely amazing. Make sure to stop there.

Additionally there is a new bridge built over Rio Nuble a bit upstream at [36.744770, 71.249650] if you do not want to ford, follow the minor road.

Day 02

Walked to Camping Los Peucos, not open yet, but there was a car there, the sprinkler and some lights where on. I called out but no one answered. I did not risk bathing in the hot springs as it clearly said it was prohibited.

I continued walking. From the [-37.06515, -71.40995] marker the route should be redesignated as trail, there are remnants of a road but completely overgrown and clearly not used anymore. Redesignate to [-37.06886, -71.39601] from there I took variant F. Highly recommend var F, nice animal trail to follow and the ford was easy.

From the trailhead {08} [80.2/1248] the trail is starting to become very overgrown all the way up to the pass. Still easy to follow though as there never is any alternatives. I camped at Camp {08} [87.4 / 1514]. It is flat and ok ground to pitch poles in, but very dusty and your tent will become dirty.

Day 03

Connected to Option 4 running east of Lake Laja. Nice options scenic wise, but absolutely swarming with horseflies. I killed hundreds of those godforsaken creatures. Until starting the climb you mostly walk on stone fields close to the shoreline.

Starting the climb there runs an animal track you can follow. Do not be fooled believing that the high elevation will save you from the horseflies, because it won’t.

Having made the climb I walked a bit on the ridge to see the views before turning back to Option 04a as I was out of water. Option 04a is a nice trail, very easy to walk. You will start to see traces of car tracks after a while and at [37.323878, 71.223060] you are in no doubt walking on a minor road (redesignate the track files) which runs clearly until [-37.40963, -71.27578] at which it comes more diffuse.

In the evening I suffered severe full leg cramp in both legs and crawled my way to [37.367707, 71.250348] where I made my worst tent pitch ever, prayed a silent prayer for a still night and went to sleep. Not the best campsite but there is water nearby.

Two Puestos not in the track files [37.329803, 71.222082] and [37.363379, 71.247417] along option 04a.

Day 04

Awoke feeling like shit, I’m in no doubt very sick. I laid in the tent until it became too hot, at which my only option was to continue hiking. Hiked with little pace and grace the rest of Option 04 and continued on GPT09. I eventually started feeling slightly better and continued onto GPT 10, and most likely further but that has not happened yet.

'''GPT08/2025-12-12 to 2025-12-17/ 5,5 days/ SOBO/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
After two nights in San Fabian in Cabañas Nativa we hitchhiked to El Inglés because the bus goes there once a day at 18:00 (not sure if weekends), it took us 3,5 hours. Shop there has some basic food. Then we hiked to Rio Ñuble, the ford was not the easiest but possible one by one, we slept close to river. Bush at 28,7 was a bit challenging but not too long, we had foggy weather that day, didn’t see more than 20 meters ahead. That day we hiked close to Vulcan Chillán but didn’t see anything because of fog and clouds. Hot river after pass is amazing.
He had breakfast at Camping Los Peucos, it is still close no one there but we didn’t sleep there just chilled in Thermas. The view at the ridge after Laguna El Roble is great, would be worth to camp there, there are some spots for camp. Last night we slept at kilometer 120 next to the road in the bushes, until this moment we didn’t see anyone from power plant. Because we didn’t wanna come to Abanico too late. In the morning on the last day we didn’t have an issue to get to Abanico. Nice resupply shops there.

Attractiveness 5/5 (even we didn’t see Vulcan Chillán)
Difficulty 3/5

*''' 2025.04.12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 2A + RR + Var F + Var G + Opt 4 (Ruta Este) / Kris and Stiina '''

We connected the GPT08 and 09 via Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.

Day 1 - Option 2A from Termas de Chillán. We started in Santiago taking 8:00 bus to Chillán and after 7h of bus rides we got to the start of the trail a bit after 16:00.
You have to go to a different bus station for the rural buses, bus schedule posted by Volker in earlier comments.

As it was already getting late we didn’t go down to fumaroles and took the higher trail unmarked as a variant but is on the map. A few easy snow patches on the way up. There is also and unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin around here (-36.90740, -71.37185) however we crossed it a bit higher up, late in the afternoon the water was really murky and fast flowing but just below the knee, easy, we are 184cm and 175cm. After that we took the trail that is on the map but is also not marked as a variant and follows the river which is not named but starts from the pass higher up. We forded it here (-36.91003, -71.36669) and camped pretty much right after it on a flat spot. The marked Camp {08} [42.6/2087] was nice looking from a distance but was actually on a wet ground. Great views of the Volcán Chillán Viejo, calm night.

Day 2 - Since many people recommended to visit Camping Los Peucos that was our goal for the day. The first “Ford {08} [47.7/1390]” of Rio Diguillín on RR was easier, the river was clear now and the water level was just below the knee. The second “Ford {08} [48.7/1334]” was a bit more challenging and the water was about waist deep. We managed to cross it individually. Tabanos (horseflies) wanted to introduce themselves relentlessly and pretty much became the theme of this section. Regardless of how many you “get rid off” same amount appears a few minutes later, like some sort of dark magic.
Camping Los Peucos was unfortunately still closed but there were other equestrian tourists camping there and no signs forbidding it, so we camped there anyway. The termas were really nice though the big one in the middle was way too hot to even stand in it. Luckily there were plenty of others to choose from, we really enjoyed a relaxing evening soaking ourselves in the termas.

Day 3 - Easy first half of the day mostly walking along the minor dirt roads. Fords on Rio Los Peucos very easy, shin deep. We took the Variant F and it was easy to follow and seemed well trodden the unmarked ford of Rio Polcura at (-37.06842, -71.39166) was really wide and just above ankle deep but very very cold, pain inducing.
After that the Variant F rejoins an even better traveled minor road. Two carabinieros cars passed us one stopped and asked how we are doing and where we are headed. They said if we need anything there is a police post just up the road, perhaps they meant this one “Police ? {08-H} [7.0/1357]”, however we didn’t plan taking the Variant H.
We also met 4 arieros on horses going the other way.
And we also took the Variant G staying on the minor road, I think the views were better from the road higher up rather than going trough the bushy valley.
The junction at “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” is easy to miss if you are not paying attention.
The trail seemed barely traveled and for us this was the most difficult part of the section GPT 08. From: “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” until about “Water {08} [83.2/1599]” - very steep, very hot, very thorny and overgrown - death by 1000 cuts type of trail (we were dressed inappropriately- shorts and shirts) and a lot of relentless tabanos trying to get a juicy sweaty piece of you at any cost. The water at 83.2 was a better lunch spot than the one before. Towards the “Pass {08} [84.5/1744]” once the trail entered more into forest it improved but there were a quite a few fallen trees, over the trail. It felt like if noone will maintain this trail it might disappear in the future. The trail improved going down from the pass.
A nice open valley with the first glimpses of Laguna Laja, however many cows in the valley some with young calves and there were a few bulls aswell. They weren’t agressive but very cautious and protective and we had to keep a safe distance to not provoke them.
We camped at (-37.19790, -71.31353) in the riverbed, pretty much the beginning of Option 4 (Ruta Este). Very windy evening but then the wind died and the night was completely still. We thought we avoided the cows.

Day 4 - We were woken up by about 10 cows “snorting” about 10m from our tent, not the most comfortable of the situations but it also was not our first rodeo, at least it wasn’t a one ton bull standing 2m away. We just stood our ground (kept lying in the tent) and waited for the cows to chill out which they did and eventually they moved onwards with their day and so did we.
We picked up the minor road that didn’t last for too long but we found what would have probably been a better campsite, not exactly at the coordinates but somewhere in this area (-37.21556, -71.30563). There was also some sort of abandoned small building across the road.
The minor road descended into the lake and for more or less the reminder of the coastal walk we stayed right on the coast as much as possible as there the ground was more solid underneath and we could still walk pretty fast. The lake had a lot of “terraces” on the side where the water had been at some point and sometimes to avoid obstacles or the path right on the coast disappeared we walked on those but they were soft beneath the foot and made the walking a bit more difficult. There were a few bluffs to go over but those were easy. Most of the lake side walk though CC was pretty easy and it did get a bit dull at some point.
Another potential campsite on the lake shore that we saw, approx. in this area: (-37.23748, -71.28333).

We also saw a few fishermen boats on the lake that later passed us at the distance and didn’t seem interested in us. They had their camp set up in Bahia El Colorado right before the “Ford {08-04} [12.5/1379] (Estero Colorado)” by the time we got there, we could see they were all fishing higher up the river so we didn’t talk to them.
Approximately the last km until the ford the coastal path disappears and the going gets a bit harder on a scree slope but it was because we stayed a bit too low. Higher up there was some sort of a minor road again, that came back out of the water but because the beginning of it looked a bit overgrown we didn’t take it. Later though it seemed better and we joined it but should have done it earlier.
The ford itself was fast flowing but shallow and easy.
A bit after that the day was getting hot so we took a dip in the lake and the temperature of the lake surprisingly was warmer than expected, but still invigorating.
After that we continued CC along the coast not following the gpx even though I can now see on the satellite that there was some sort of a trail higher up. We went along the coast almost all the way to the Estero Rucos and then turned up the valley towards the “Ford {08-04} [15.9/1397] (Estero los Rucos)” I don’t think that doing it this way was much slower. We forded the river a few times already lower down looking for the best way up the valley, the fords were very easy.
We had a lunch in the bushes near the ford and I believe it’s possible to find a campsite there aswell. The tabanos around here were vicious and they pretty much accompanied us all the way along the ridge walk that followed.
After that came a steep and very hot climb up to the ridge, there appeared some sort of a trail around here (-37.25442, -71.23348) but then we lost it and just aimed straight up for the trail that we could see higher up. Once we got to it it led us all the way to the ridge, though in some places we deviated from it to avoid some bushes.
The trail continued to where the Option 4A joins the Option 4 and went down in the valley. But we wanted to stay on the ridge and it was a very easy CC along the ridge with some really amazing views of Volcán Antuco, Sierra Velluda and the Laguna Laja.
There was also a very good Movistar signal here (-37.30267, -71.24928).
It got a bit harder going when the ground turned more soft under the foot walking on the loose pumice. It was challenging going up but very fun, fast and easy going down. Once we were approaching the pass (-37.36012, -71.25679) we could see trails reappearing crossing the pass and it was a well traveled path down to Estero los Timones. The moment the trail descended into the valley there was a 4x4 track going up the valley and continuing along the Option 4. We forded the little estero around here (-37.36871, -71.25077) and set the camp up right there on the slightly elevated ground on the river bed. It was nice and flat but sandy and a bit exposed to the wind. The wind luckily once again died down for the night and after a mega day I believe I had one of the best nights sleep ever.

Day 5 - In the morning we picked up the 4x4 track we saw yesterday and followed it hoping that the Option 4C would be possible to save us some unnecessary km. The option 4C was under the lake but a bit further we could see a possible crossing. We deviated from the Option 4 at around here:(-37.38999, -71.25340) to shortcut across and saved extra 5km of walking. There was a small ford in the middle of the crossing (-37.39198, -71.25376).
After that we picked up again the 4x4 track that roughly matched the Option 4.
We didn’t miss out on the opportunity to have another dip in the lake with view of the Volcán Antuco across, it was very refreshing and water felt a degree colder than yesterday in Bahia El Colorado.
After that started the loose sand section for about 10 km even though there was still a 4x4 track the ground beneath it wasn’t compacted and walking took some extra effort. Here we mostly followed what for us looked the best, not the track or the gpx. The 4x4 track went off the main Option 4 around where the Option 4D is drawn.
There were a few minor fords along the way. At the ford around here (-37.47633, -71.26346) we had lunch with some shade a bit higher up this side valley.
Our map showed that there is a trail coming down from this valley and after the lunch we picked it up just before the GPT 08 - Option 4 joins the GPT09 RR. We didn’t see any actual trail joining from the GPT09 RR.
This is where for us the GPT08 ended and GPT09 started. (Continued in section 09 log)

Option 4 - difficulty 4/5 attraction 5/5
Since most of it is CC with just occasional track or trail resemblances a lot of it on loose sand and some places steep, it gets 4/5. It wasn’t as difficult as some of the sections we have done. The views and lake swims were definitely worth it.

Section GPT08 in general - Muchos tabanos, more water than marked, good walking, great views.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- I re-route the Regular Route of GPT08 due to the right-of-way conflict at Mallin el Toro near the southern terminus of GPT08 (about 4 km north of road between Abanico and Laguna Las Lajas). The Regular Route now descents when hiking southbound to Rio Polcura and the hydro-power station El Toro. When going southbound exiting the hydro-power station El Toro is normally not an issue. When workers see you at the road you might be escorted out of the area (free car ride but connecting-footstep-hikers might cry when being driven out). Anyway, northbound hikers will need to make arrangements to be permitted entering the area going north. See the post from Manon and Robin from season 2024/2025.

- New GPT08 Option 6 (Cerro Gaston): One option to avoid the right of way conflict is this new exploration route. Satellite images suggest a vague trail or animal track up to the ridge starting either at the normally dry outlet of Laguna de las Lajas or somewhat higher up on the road after the first locked gate. Experienced hikers that don't mind scrambling in steep exposed terrain might investigate this exploration route but should turn back if this unverified draft route is unsafe.

- GPT09 and GPT08: Southbound and northbound hikers may also opt for the remote routes east of Laguna de las Lajas (GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este)). This is particular useful when combining GPT09 and GP08. When staring on GPT08 going northbound, hikers might first follow the regular route of GPT09 going southbound (around volcano Antuco) and then turn north on the remote eastern side of Laguna de las Lajas.

- Updated GPT08 Option 5 (Costa Las Lajas): Southbound hikers with enough food left may also follow the coast of Laguna de Las Lajas and ascent to the ridge on one of the 3 suggested routes. Note that route 05D is only traversable when the lake level is somewhat low (see Important Information Point GPT08-5D that provides a water level mark for decision taking). These detours promise to be quite scenic and remote combining lake access with walking high up on the ridge and avoiding the right-of-way conflict when descending on the current regular route to Rio Polcura.

- Northbound Start at Termas de Chillan: An other option for northbound hikers to avoid the right of way conflict at Mallin el Toro is starting at the Termas de Chillan halfway into section GPT08.

- Packrafting is also an option to travel along the lake shore or to cross the lake to hike on the eastern side. In this area, early mornings and late evenings are normally calm but in the afternoon wind can get dangerously strong.

==Season 2024/25==

* ''' GPT 08 - NOBO - right of way issue Mallin del Toro / Robin and Manon / Published on Facebook 2025-03-12 '''

With Manon Petit we walked GPT08 NOBO from Antuco. We had some kind of escape game in Antuco to find a solution to the right of way issue at Mallin del Toro. We were not super keen to try the ridge route from Célio Lebailly or Tobias Schorcht, as it trespassed the first gate and looked nasty from below. We talked to a local guide Jorge from Cardinal Adventure (+56 9 5848 1699, can rent material for Antuco), our host Fanny at refugio Antumapu (+56 9 9404 4771 very welcoming and nice, super cheap) and our friends Pablo and Rachel encountered in a hitchhike a few days before. All were aware of the events and did their possible to help out as it impacts tourism in Antuco. Here's what we can tell :

- there has been a serious events in December. Cyclists were confronted by the arriero and friends about some damage done apparently, then molested and their bikes were retained/robbed. Turns out one of the guy was the son of a Los Angeles judge, and there is a case open in court about the events. From there the access has been denied to anyone. We talked with Enrique Marisol the arriero (+56 9 6285 2347). Here is his answer : "Hola buenas tardes Desgraciadamente está restringido el tránsito por el interior del predio solo se permite el ingreso a los residentes,tenemos el lugar ocupado por animales en pastoreo ojalá entienda que no está permitido el paso por el interior Desgraciadamente los mismos turista han provocado en nosotros la molestia actuando de mala fe como rompiendo cercas .derribando nuestros portones dejando que nuestros animales se escapen a predios aledaños ocasionando gastos humanos logísticos y pérdida de algunos animales"

- Our friends finally found out who the dueña is, she is of a family nicknamed here "pichimosca" (small flies), known in Antuco for not being friendly and causing problems. She is the one forbidding access.

- the Antuco municipality is actively trying to resolve the situation

- Carabineros have no hold on this and advise to avoid the area

- Once the persons heard the name of the dueña, they all advised to avoid the area and not having problems with this family. The arriero Enrique is not well appreciated neither, and as far as we understood, he took part in molesting the cyclists.
Concerning options to avoid Mallin del toro

- the Rayenco central in option 6 is a private ground an permit is required to trespass. It is granted if prior permit from one of the two owners of the Campos higher up the Polcura valle.

- the two administrators are Engelbert Egger (+56 9 9239 2826) in fonde del Ciervo on the right bank. Working for an Austrian company of forestal management; and Juan Carlos Navarrete (+56 9 8514 3202) on the left bank.

- we got autorisation from Engelbert, who even picked us up in Antuco and dropped us in fonde del Ciervo. Nice guy, curious about what we're doing. Doesn't want this to be a touristic route, but seemed OK to grant permits to GPT hikers.

- he warned us about troubles with Juan Carlos. Turns out this is the same dueña as Mallin del Toro. The option 6 passes by his puesto and then veraneras before joining the ridge. Since Engelbert dropped us 14km upstream from the bridge, we crossed the Polcura there (not feasible earlier in the season I guess), backtracked on the left bank, and took an OSM route from S 37° 13.017', W 071° 25.823' to the ridge a little before the puesto. Didn't meet Juan Carlos. We joined the RR at S 37° 14.024', W 071° 23.514'.

- the local guide Jorge told us about another solution: bypass with a zodiac on the lake. Héctor Burgos (+56 9 4944 4909) has one and is willing to offer his services. Contact him beforehand as he works in the mines and needs to plan he mentioned 110 kCLP for the transfer.

- another solution is getting up the Polcura valle directly to Los Peucos. This is way shorter, and trail all the way on both banks. You'd miss the ridge, and the trouble !
Hope this is clear enough, lots of info, I'll put that in the wiki. Overall the Mallin del Toro situation should be taken seriously

*'''2025-03-27 to 2025-03-31 / 4.5 days hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + RR + OH E + OH G + OH H + own route around Puesto/ MiaimZelt'''

Day 1: Came from Talca and took the 2pm bus from Terminal Merced to Termas de Chillán. Arrived at 4:30pm and was the last one in the bus. Had to walk 1.5km on the road to reach OH 02. The trail to Pass {08-02} [2.8/2371] was easy, but very steep. No fun, i was stressed a lot because of time pressure, had only 3 hours of daylight left. Hurried down through the incredible Valle Aguas Calientes - what a pity! First hot spring was already occupied with tents. Could have camped near a hot river, but maybe not easy to reach the hot river in the dark. Therefore i continued until Camp {08} [40.4/2150]. Don't recommend this place, the evening and night was super windy, although it was less windy at the pass! Didn't dare to leave the tent to take a bath and didn't fall asleep before 3am.

Day 2: Prepared everything and took a bath in the morning. So good!! RR was wet and sometimes not visible in the valley. Improved soon. Ford {08} [47.4/1390] was below knee and fast flowing. Ford {08} [48.4/1334] was mid tigh (i'm 1.73) and fast flowing. At Puesto {08} [49.6/1423] i saw 2 simple huts: one was locked. Ford {08} [50.5/1305] was possible dry feet. Ford {08} [64.1/1164] was also possible dry feet. Went to Camping Los Peucos and met 2 guys from Conaf. They told me the Camping is now officially closed due to problems with administration. Arrived late and was allowed to stay, very nice gardaparques. I hope they reopen soon, this place is awesome.

Day 3: Short day due to weather forcast: 35l rain and 80km/h winds in the evening and night. All 4 fords at the MR were easy and low, but Ford {08} [71.3/1089] was very long. At least 5 apple trees at OH E! Sendero Los Ratones is nice, but some fallen trees. Searched for a camspot near the pass in the lenga forest. Stayed here on a not really flat place:
-37.128033, -71.3195. Indeed tons of rain after 8pm.

Day 4: Started late at 10am, when rain stopped. Again some fallen trees. Soon i found better and bigger places to camp in the forest, the altitude-lines didn't let me expect this. No more dust! Trail until Laguna Roble was nice and beautiful. Below Laguna Roble i found a rabbit caught in a wire loop. I freed the poor animal, 100m further i saw a dead rabbit in another wire loop. Both campspots at Laguna Roble are nice and well protected in case if bad weather.
Was lucky to climb to Pass {08} [100.6/2035] (El Encanto) on a cool day. Great views from the ridge! Also nice trail. After X {08} [105.4/1934] 200m CC. Camp {08} [106.6/1938] isn't flat. Followed the wrong trail and continued CC at the same altitude until i reached the RR again. Took OH G to get to Laguna Hermosa. Easy CC. Didn’t like the camp at the beach, not good in case of unstable weather. Stayed here: -37.27434, -71.383359 a bit further up. 100m below there is a well sheltered spot between bushes. Started snowing after i pitched the tent. Very cold night.

Day 5: Sunny day, but cold and some snow at the mountains. The following km at the ridge were a bit difficult due to snow and ice. Snow covered the trail and made it difficult to follow. Fortunately i saw animal footprints - wild animals appriciate our trails! Took OH H, there is a nice trail. The beginning of the descent was very steep and still frozen. Improved in the forest. Met two Arrieros with horses and 4 aggressive dogs. Wanted to sneak around Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] to avoid right-of-way issue. First try was a fail - the vegetation was way too dense. Here -37.347131, -71.391773 i could follow an animal trail, which leads to a big meadow. Hiked on the meadow to the MR. Only downside: i was visible from the house, nothing happened. I guess: it's possible to sneak in NoBo when walking early or late when it's dark. Nice trail near Estero El Toro. Walked on the PR and got a very friendly hitch with a chilean couple to Los Ángeles.

*''' 2025-03-14 to 2025-03-16 /3 days / HIKING/ NOBO / OH 02 + RR /Chloe and Mathieu

We tried to to take the OH06 to avoid the right of way issue but when you go Nobo you have to go through the hydroelectrical central. For that you have to go there with one of the landowner located after the central. So we followed the advice of Robin and Manon and contacted Engelbert Egger (+56992392826). He's very Kind but he wasn't in Abanico at this time so he gave us the number of an other man wo has a puesto after the central. He wasn't available as well so we decided to start from Termas de Chillan to avoid this part.

Day 1 : we started from Termas de Chillan and took the OH 02. We went up to the pass, easy trail. We went down to the agua caliente valley, very beautifull and almost all rivers are hot. There is one amazing just after the camp [37.3/2157] where you can bath.
We slept at camp 40.3 where the hot spring is so nice as well.

Day 2: we went up to the pass 39.1 quite sandy but the ascent is short. When we went down we lost the RR because we followed a more obvious trace so keep looking at the GPS. We
reached RR again and followed the route until pass 33.2. Then we went down to the valley of estero Quebrado. At camp 29.5 we lost the track and ended in bamboo fight, so stay to the right side of the estero and it will be fine.
We reached Rio Ñuble and crossed it preatty easily at the exact point on Locus because rivers are lower at this time of the year. We camped here S 36° 48.882', W 071° 15.278' but the camp 20.3 is fine also. The other places are protected by fences and big signs are saying that camping is prohibited.
Day 3: we walked all the way to Puente Engles and found a lift to go to San Fabian de Alico. We slept at the Jahuel camping (15min from center and 8000p/p) nice restaurant : Zambie I Canuta.
Took the bus next morning at 6:20AM to Chillan.

*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-03-02 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Eric and Jakob'''

Route:
We sticked to the main route the whole time. !!!We had problems at the end of the main Route. Its best to use Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid right of ways issue.!!!

Travel:
At this section our trip ended that’s why we hitchhiked to Antuco and even though it was Sunday we were able to buy a ticket for a nightbus directly from Antuco to Santiago. The bus left at 22:15 and arrived at 05:30 the following day costing the two of us 54 euros.

Permissions:
In the beginning is a gate a little bit before the marked gate at kilometre 22.8. The gate has signes on it stating that everything is private property and nobody is allowed to enter. The land is owned by a really nice man called Juan. His phone number is +56973133339. He is carrying his phone all the time so just give him a call before entering. He was really friendly to us and gave us immediate permission to cross his territory.
When entering Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja don’t worry about getting a permission to continue hiking. We went to the Park Ranger at km 63.9 and he told us that no permission is needed to cross the national park.
!!!The landowner at km 120.6 doesn’t let any hiker pass! No matter whether hiking SOBO or NOBO. There is also no way to get a permission. That’s why we highly recommend taking the Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid these problems. He is a really straightforward person who makes you turn around no matter of how much water or food you still have left.!!!
 Resupply:
No shops on the whole trail.

Attractiveness: 4-5/5
Difficulty: 4/5

*'''GPT 08 / 2025-02-13 to 2025-02-07/ 7 days / NOBO / Mara & Tobias*'''

short: Avoided the right of way conflict at Puesto {08} [121.6/1513] by taking the ridge (difficulty 6). Water {08} [107.7/1951] is almost dried out. Aggressive cows in the valley close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449].

Day 1: startet at Gate {08} [126.2/1339] at 12:30 and met Enrico there, who told us to not pass. After chatting a bit with him he told us to wait 20 minutes, until he left with the car and go for the ridge. So we entered after a while, went up the road and found water at -37.35773, -71.38068. From the satellite images variant A (photo) looked ok, but in real live seemed to be a bad idea. So we went for variant B, which took us 3 hours. Very steep, loose rocks, one part with climbing (difficulty 2). With the food for 7 days in the backpack not a joy 😂. While we were climbing up, we saw 3 cars passing the road. So be aware when you sneak in. Camped at laguna los Cóndores. Perfect Spot!

Day 2: walked to Camp {08} [107.6/1938]. The marked spot should be shifted up to 37.24611 -71.39138 the shoulder right before (NOBO). Met Adrian, Julian and Valentin there who camped SOBO and camped beside us. Had nice conversations. Adrian warned us about the aggressive cows next day.

Day 3: Went to Camp {08} [88.1/1514] and met Clara on the way. Cows close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449] showed an aggressive behaviour. Maybe it was the herd who were hunting the boys the day before. We had to do a 20 minutes detour up the valley to keep distance.

Day 4: Went to camping Los Peucos and enjoyed the hot water.

Day 5-7: walked to Puente Inglés without difficulties. Crossed Río Nuble with dry feet on horseback’s. 2 Arrieros (Guillermo and Renato) took us on the other side. Water was not deep either.

*'''10Fev2025 - 17fec2025 / hiking SOBO / RR - OH1+new - varE - G - H - I - J / 7.5 days (with one half day at termas) / Clara'''

Left the bus to Puente El Ingles here -36,67295, -71,29201 before los sauces (as Tomáš and Natalie said), easy road to the river and dry feet crossing.
Lots of workers there, I was luckey to get a ride to El Roble after few hot MR walking km.
Carabineros are nice, just want you to register and check out you have a good gps + satellite.

Fords :
- Rio ñuble: at 10am deep and flowing fast, I didn't feel it (1.57m, alone and i'm not used to fords). I knew it would probably be like this so I took OH1 and went back RR (thanks a lot Peggy and Dorota!!). Ford at the indicated place on OH1 is easy, water to knee flowing slow at noon.

-Rio diguillin : 47.4 was easy (fast flowing but around knee). 48.4 harder (water to crotch, flowing fast), I did it few meters upper to tracks (exactly here : -36,93565, -71,40355)

Navigation :

- to avoid ford of rio ñuble : OH1 is easy with 2 nice camp spots (-36,85676, -71,22440 and -36,86615, -71,21507) and lot of streams flowing. Trail in the other direction is mainly in good conditions but sometimes disappear + cow paths make you going in bushes and loosing time (so if it can helps, this is 4 positions that I marked with my gps when I went back on the good trail just after loosing myself :
S36.852906° O071.228763° /
S36.850995° O071.230381° /
S36.844944° O071.235431° /
S36.839085° O071.245746°)

Maybe (probably), there are other easy spots earlier to ford Rio ñuble and take the trail at the opposite side, especially when it gets close to the river, but I didn't explore it at all.
And back on the other side of Rio ñuble... 3h30 later !! But I was very happy with it as it worked and was very easy.

-I found not so much bamboo fight, maybe it have been cleared by all the people passing. I avoided one taking the good trail on the other side of the river around camp 29.5. 2 additional fords but very easy. (Cross river here S36.856564° O071.75578°, and then here S36.858440° O071.279470° to go back on RR)

- CC part on the ridge after km113 is more demanding in terms of navigation and terrain. Some cairns helping (but once leed me in wrong and exposed direction). I ended up on varH without noticing but it felt good as there was less wind than directly on the ridge and a good trail.

- I had still lot's of food so I took the ridge slow and went for the lakes (thank's to Sergio advise, and food!). Var G for laguna hermosa is easy CC, 20 min down. The lake is a beautiful ++ spot to camp (or lunch/swim), I found it way nicer than Laguna El Roble ! No water flowing upper to the lake at this time but water from the lake is perfectly clear and fresh.
Var I looked nicer than RR for this steep going down.
Then var J : good trails to go to laguna El Toro and to the viewpoint of laguna los condores. Not sure if you really can go down at this one and didn't look like there is place to camp.

Camp :

- Planned to camp at Camp 20.3 but the place was not nice and no water so went to next spot not marked here -36,81470, -71,25463. (Camp 21.6 is not good too, there is a fence and private property)

- -36,85684, -71,27580. A bit before camp 29.5.

- termas 40 : very nice spot. Incredible termas !!

- camping Los Peucos : nothing to add about termas and camping. Sergio is amazing and very generous. The day after he had to do some stuff with trashes and he proposed me to come with him by car. He took me to the viewpoint of salto del blanquillo on OH3 that was nice and then left me around beginig of VarE

- camp 87.1 : nice fresh water flowing just down to the spot.

- camp 102.3 : there is actually a thin water just down, sufficient to cook and drink. The spot has an amazing view. Flat spot perfect for tent exactly here -37,21391, -71,37187. Not totally wind protected so better watch before how it's gonna be for the night !

- laguna El Toro : is not as perfect as laguna hermosa (and water is not as fresh and clear, maybe better to take water from the little stream on the path going down to the lake) but it's still a nice place to camp. Frozed in the night.

Water : 27.5 is not really good (more muddy and stagnant water). Other markers are good.

No snow.

Right of way issues :
- at puesto 120 : 5 very agressive dogs running and barking on me when I arrived. As others, the guy told me it's a private property and doesn't let people go since this season (because of trashes and fires). He was not angry and had to let me pass in this way but precise me that he won't let anyone in the opposite. Need to find an alternative way if you really want to go NOBO here, and don't approch the puesto.

- cows around km88 where not aggressive with me but not friendly type neither.

I can advise camping parque Antuco. Nice and calm place with shade and swimming pool. Homemade empanadas. Camp10k with electricity and perfect hot showers. Bernabe the owner is really nice and know about the GPT. Had really good talks with him !

* '''2025-JAN-29 to 2025-Feb-2 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Elijah & Michael

Rio Nuble remains a challenging crossing with water coming waist high at 174 cm. Trail is overgrown with Bamboo Grass up to the second pass, however improves thereafter.

Both the undeveloped termas after the second pass, as well as Los Peucos are highly recommended. Camping & rustic cabanas available at Los Puecos; as noted, Sergio is warm, welcoming, and generous with his available supplies.

El Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] informed us that we were trespassing on private property and allowed us to pass on the stipulation that we never return.

Antuco Base Camp sells hot coffee, cookies, chocolate, and at lunch, pizza. Light traffic on road to Antuco (Sunday).

(Option 1: Michael split from RR to hike this option. Second marked puesto busy & welcoming. No water available after basin before ridge walk, until Laguna el Lobo. Good views, comparable to Traversia Polcura.)

'''2024-01-16 to 2014-01-26 / 1day+10days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 1+new trail / Dorota+Peggy till los Puecos, after that Dorota'''

Very demanding stage because of Rio Nuble

1Day: I walked alone and have idea to cross the river Nuble at km 22.0 km (-36.82021, -71.25381) at first gate. Then followed river, and after puesto I found trail. My idea was destroyed for next river and also on the other side I did not see possibility to continúe. So I backtrack to camping El Ingles and joined Peggy.

Day2: We could not crossed safely Nuble. Night at km 21.6

Day3: We continued option 08-01. It was possiblity of storm so we went to puesto (08-01)[8.0/1136]. We spent here night and learned how to made sopapillas and bread. Patricia y Juan gave us a lot of food. Juan explain us that exist path on other side of river (reffering to option1) which leads to termas.

Day4: We risked to follow his innstruction and we reached the track RR. So if you would like to do this option: take variant 01, cross the river Nuble at about km 6.5 (-36.86712,-71.21317). And then not followed option 1. Instead turn right and followed path on the other side. You need to make some adicional kilometers, but it was worth of it.

Day5: we reached termas. There was nice spot with two places for tent.(-36.90435, -71.35763)

Day6: volcano Chillan using variant Natalie-Tomas. Till 2500 m nice visible path. Then sometimies. There were snowfields, only one with spikes. We met pair from Germany.

Day7: We spend a lot of time for find good place for passing river Daulagin. We have crossed 100 m down stream. I have 1.64 cm, peggy 1.60 cm. Cuarrent very strong, water to hips. I reached camping los Puecos.

Day7: Rest day at Puecos. Night at "quincho" house with place for fire. Price 15.000 clp. Ranger Sergio gave us a lot of food, breakfast and dinner. Also gas and food. He didnot like money adicional. Hot springs excepcional.

Day9: I followed trail alone. Between 82.9 and 84.2 a lot tress and sometimes trail is not visible. Night at km 88.4.

Day 10: views from the ridge were amazing. Between km 110.2 and 113.1 the trail very often is not visible. I camped at km 111. Water from snow.

Day11: There were not water till km 117. Meeting with Rodrigo at his puesto were not so bad. At the beginnig I started to apologize that I am on his territory. Night at camping Antuco in luxury cabana for 4 personas. Price 30000 clp. Owner in the evening took me to Abanico to restaurant and buying some food. Very nice place.

'''2025-Jan-20 to 2025-Jan-27 / 7 days + 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR from thermas de Chillán, Option 08-D + volcano Chillán / Chris & Julia
'''

Tldr: Final ridge is difficult (navigation & terrain), we had insane winds. Water [118.3/1733] is campable. All fords managable (2 pers, one 181cm), one a bit tricky to navigate. Option 08-D preferable. Dont miss out on Los Peucos!

Skipped due to Rio Nubles to valles de agua caliente.
Climbing volcan Chillán was a nightmare made from ashes and loose rocks. Saw condors from maybe 5m away and got blessed with amazing views. it took us in total approx. 7hrs. Many snowfields to cross and no real path, its just... very very steep.
Valle de agua caliente was very nice, but also crowded. The water is not particularly hot, but relaxing & nice during daytime. The first river that needs to be crossed to join the RR was pretty hot (almost burned my foot when crossing). We were a bit bummed, we didnt try to find a bathing spot there, away from the people and with some steam ;)
Fording Rio Diguilli approx hip high and medium current, second crossing was easier than first but hard to navigate. At the marked location is a good spot, just hard to get there as the path was swept away. We followed horse tracks, last 20m pushed through bushes, climbed down and then traced the river approx. 20-40m upstream to the marked fording and crossed there.
Los Peucos is a heaven, no shop though, so plan supplies accordingly! If lucky and he had a recent resupply run, he might sell you some food, but its not certain. Sergio is super nice & welcoming, hot pools are suuuuper relaxing! Wifi available. 15kCLP pp.
We took Option 08-D (some CC that Sergio (Los Peucos) recommended) to only cross Rio Polcura once. We crossed approx 200m downstream of the marked location where it was more narrow, less current but a bit deeper. We did this because it was easier to judge whats coming and it was belly high, but due to little current very managable. Rather a nice cool dip. We saw horse tracks exiting the trail a bit earlier to the left than the Option 08-D. Arrieros know best, i suspect this might be their trail, worth checking out!
As others mentioned before, we also took the road and not the RR parallel to the river. We saw arrieros use it on horses, but with backpacks its hard and not enjoyable.
Camp [97.8/1456] at Laguna el Roble was a dream spot. The ascend after was a dream too, 2hrs, amazing views.
Final ridge approx from the salida de emergencia ongoing was hard to navigate, challenging terrain, insane winds! Took longer than expected!
Camp [106.6/1938] looked not flat but okay, but water supply rather trickling than flowing.
We camped at not-marked location very close to Water [118.3/1733] (when the path gets muddy, after crossing the little flow from the left, little ascend and then to the right is a nice flat spot between fallen trees). The water is actually a source and had wonderful cold & fresh water flowing.

In Antuco we found through asking a shop owner a little room, hosted by nice lady Sara: 3 beds, power outlets, wifi (fast), shower (warm-ish), watercooker, microwave, clean, central (near bigmarket) for 40.000CLP per night for it all. Her Whatsapp: +56 9 8503 8261
No kitchen though.

Wonderful and diverse section! Loved every bit of it!

'''2024-Jan-02 to 2024-Jan-12 / 3 days+8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, backtrack from Rio Nubles, OH02, OH02A / Nimrod & Tamar
'''
In short - we didn't cross Rio nubles and backtracked to opt 02.
Great hot springs
An angry guy at puesto [120.6/1513]

Trail from Puente Ingles is an MR. There is a lot of worker traffic and it's easy to hitchhike.
At Camp [21.6/873] there is a fence and it's currently impossible to camp there. At the same spot there is a cable bridge. We climbed the fence and tried to cross, but the cart was on the other side of the river and we didn't see anybody.

We camped near Rio Nubles ford waypoint in order to try it early in the morning.
The current was too strong and we didn't maage to cross the river (we are 170 cm)
We decided to go upstream using option 10, cross the river, and try to go back to RR on the other side.
We crossed the river at (-36.86714, -71.21322) and started hiking south.
It was hard BB and we hiked about 1.5 km in 4 hours.
We saw the river got wide so we decided to cross it again, stop suffering, backtrack and take a bus to thermas de chillan.

We took a bus from Chillan to Termas de Chillan at 13:30 on Sunday. We walked about 1 km on the paved road and climbed to the first hot springs. There was a small not so warm pool.

2nd day - we climbed to Volcan Chillan. There was some snow but it was easy without spikes.
Slept in the amazing Valle de Agua Caliente and enjoyed a hot bath in the hot river at night.

3rd day - We planned to get to Los Peucos but decided to spend more time in the hot springs valley and started hiking at noon. The ford in [48.4/1334] was quite hard. At afternoon the water reached our belly button, current was strong, rock at bottom slippery.
We camped near ford [50.5/1305]. There was a fir pit.

4th day - we hiked to Los Peucos. Sergio the ranger accepted selling us some food (flour, eggs, cheese, pasta, tuna, pastrami). Payed 15,000 clp each for food+hot spring+camp. The hot springs were amazing! The best so far for us. You get to fill your own pool before going in so it's clean and warm! There's wifi and a place to charge as well.

5th day - we camped at (-37.10491, -71.31605) no water. Saw puma foot prints the next morning, and a research camera a little before camp.

6th day - saw Laguna de laja and volcan Antuco from afar for the first time. camped near Laguna De Roble, swem and rested in the afternoon. Beautiful place! A lot of ducks.

7th day - the path was clear most of the time and the view really nice.
We camped at (-37.178223,-71.235131) - beautiful place with a view to volcan Antuco, water from melted snow.

8th day - watch out as going down the trail to the last valley- it looks innocent, but is actually quite steep and dirt is slippery, and land is hard and painful to fall on. Had some nasty falls on our butts!
At puesto [120.6/1513] a guy named Ricardo was angry at us for entering his private property, but had no choice but let us continue down.We think he might not let NOBO hikers go up the valley.
Finally we hitchhiked to Antuco. There was a lot of traffic on Sunday.

'''2024-Dec-21 to 2024-Dec-26 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, variant E, Option 2 / Sean & Neele
'''

At the park entrance on the road they asked where we were going, once we explained we were going north to termas de chillan they asked to see the route. Wasn't a problem they just seemed curious, let us in without paying.

Puesto 120km - lots of people camping in this area on a Friday.

117km to 107km - snow present. It's manageable but slowed our progress. Around 113km is the worst of it. North of 107km some very small patches but nothing difficult.

Camp 106.6km - very wet at the moment there's a better option about 500m sobo.

Camp without water 102.3 - currently has plenty of water.

Camped at camp 87.1km - lots of horseflies

Ford 71.3km - easy at 4pm

Ford 66.4, 64.1 and 63.7km - also easy

Camping Los Puecos 63.9km - great spot hot spring was a bit too hot for us. Host was a legend; he brought us breakfast on Christmas.

Ford 48.4km - Very strong. Crossed around 5:30pm hip deep for Neele (1.61m). We took our time finding a suitable place to cross and ended up about 250m upstream from RR.

Camped at Ford 47.4km eastern side downstream there's a great camp spot with a fire ring.

Hot spring 40.4km is really amazing

We took option 2 to Termas de Chillan to avoid Rio Nuble. Some snow but really not a problem.

* ''' 2024-DEC-18 > 20 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / frontiere argentine(voir GPT07) > RR > frontiere argentine > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT07+GPT08
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : passage de rivière difficile, foret d'arbres morts, neige sur pente raide.

Le passage du Rio Nuble n'est pas facile, meme le matin. La fin du sentier avant la grande montee est vraiment difficile a suivre car peu empruntée et milieu humide avec beaucoup de vegetation. En revanche la montée est parfaitement entretenue.
La crete est un vrai plaisir, mais elle est exigente physiquement et il n'y a pas d'eau ni de sentier. Les parties sableuses sont difficile car il y a des trous sous le sable. Pour la descente vers le Rio Polcura, il suffit de suivre le sentier. La riviere est facile a passer.
Ensuite la premiere partie vers le lac est en mauvais etat meme si le chemin est bien visible. La foret est morte alors attention aux chutes de branches. La derniere crete est tres belle, mais il y a beaucoup de neige dans des endroits tres raide. Impossible a faire si la neige est glacée. La derniere descente est propre mais il y a beaucoup de moustiques dans le grand pré. La fin du dernier jour s'est faite sous un ciel menaçant, je me suis depeché de descendre pour retrouver de la chaleur et des endroits plats en cas de pluie. J'ai rejoint Los Angeles le lendemain avec 4km de marche, 5km en stop, puis en bus depuis Abanico par le bus de 8h45.
DEC-21 : Repos Los Angeles.

* ''' 2024-DEC-13 to 2024-DEC-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. E, 06, 06B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel '''

This stage is full of incredible diversity, encompassing almost everything. Epic views, challenging terrain, walking on snow, beautiful wild forests, the majestic Chillán volcano, hardened lava flows, hot springs, arrieros, a ridge trail, and, so far, the most challenging ford we’ve encountered here (see below).

We got back to the trail by hitchhiking from San Fabián in the early morning. The following section [km 2.8 to approx. 21.9] is not a trail as described in the track files, but rather a solid MR that is being worked on by laborers. The settlement at El Roble [12.7/758] is actually a police station where we checked in and provided our contact details.

The ford [23.7/950] across the Ñuble River is the biggest challenge of this section. We first attempted it in a line of three, but our tallest member, Daniel (198 cm), who was first, found the water almost up to his chest and the strong current was beginning to pull us in. We turned back. It wasn’t safe to cross. Eventually, we found a rock 100 meters upstream where the water was deeper but the riverbed was narrower. With a run-up, we jumped one by one as far as we could, and on three steps, we made it to the opposite bank. We sent our backpacks across the riverbed using a rope and carabiner.

The ascent to the saddle of the Chillán volcano is a beautiful hike, and the extensive and geologically fresh lava flow at the Trailhead [34.6/1873] is definitely worth mentioning. The crossing point is unmarked at about [35.1/1852]. Above 2150 m, everything was completely covered with snow. Spikes came in handy.

The descent to the Río Diguillín valley was okay, and we camped near the ford [48.4/1334], which is also a nice spot for a bivouac. We crossed the mentioned ford in the morning, and the water reached my waist at a height of 178 cm. It’s worth noting that the marked ford [50.5/1305] could be crossed with dry feet. The trail towards Termas los Peucos [63.9/1191] is a relatively well-defined path trodden by local arrieros. At the hot springs, which cost 7000 CLP per person, there is also a camping, but we continued further along the MR. At about [75.0/1160], we originally turned down the RR, but due to the challenging BB, we reversed our decision and continued along the MR to variant E.

From the Trailhead [80.5/1248], there is a pleasant path leading to the beautiful Laguna Laja. We camped at Camp [98.3/1459] by Laguna El Roble, where you need to slightly clear some bushes, but there is a nice spot for three tents and a fire pit. The ascent to the Pass [100.6/2035] (El Encanto) is quite pleasant due to its zigzagging path. There, we were captivated by the literally breathtaking view of the Antuco Volcano and Sierra Velluda. Unfortunately, due to an injury to one of our members' arches, we had to skip part of the ridge and finish the section using variants 06 + 06B. We deviated from the RR at point X [105.4/1934] and at Bus point {08-06B} [2.9/734], we hitchhiked to Los Angeles.

* ''' (2024/Dez/01-2024/Dec/07) 7Days/ Hiking and Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR / Lukas, Basil and Tabea '''

Entry point st puente el Ingles. The street to el Roble is beeing newly built and very easy to walk ou but also boring. The crossing of rii nuble was only manageble with packrafts, the river crossing ob foot is not possible at the moment. The mountain Pass at 39.1 km was duable but there was still a lot of snow from ca. 36.2 to ca. Ford 47.4. The hot springs were worth all the effort! The crossing at 50.5km was at the limit (for a person 170cm, over belly button). It was only possible in a line, manageble but not recommended.
Hot springs at camp 63.9 km are great. Ranger station has all the necessary commodoities, we spent an extra day there. From there on the road was well maintained until the laguna de la laja.
Packrafting before 3pm was very hard and slow due to SO wind, in the afternoon the west-wind made progress possible. Water levels are unusually high at the moment. As we were tired cold we hitch hiked with a fisher boat to the end of the lake afer ca. 14 km paddeling. exit over highway next to national park laguna del laja.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''24-11-29- 24-12-4/ 6 days / SOBO, OH02, RR, OH08F, RR, OH06/ Volker'''

A great spring hike, but not an easy one!
To avoid Rio Nubles so early in the season I took OH02 (bus from Chillan, rural station, to Valle las Trancas at 10.10 a.m. (2 buses each day go to Termas de Chillan, schedule:
https://busesrembus.cl/en/services.php)
and walked/hitchhiked the last kilometers to Termas. Started around 14:30. The snow began immediately after the hot spring at 4.8. I walked CC on the nearly untouched white coverage to the pass. The valley was almost completely under snow with some green patches. Rio Diguillin (no ford indicated): why keep feet dry, why keep anything dry? It‘s a stream at about 38 C with many whirlpools. I stayed over an hour there and camped not far: 10qm for a tent inmidst all the snow on a warm spring evening. The night and the following morning: quite cold. It was a good decision to add some 800g to my base-weight for a warm layer and gloves.

Day 2: Got up at 6.a.m and climbed with a mini-backpack CC on Volcan Chillan Viejo, at 9 a.m. on the summit, great view! In the afternoon I walked NOBO to the hot spring at 40.3 on RR. Back at the tent, it started to rain, mixed with snow.

Day 3: Started late, waiting for the weather to improve. To avoid the NOBO detour to the RR I climbed CC to join it. This was easy, the problems began on the RR. The whole trail was under snow, I had to permanently use my device to find the point of reentry into overgrown area after steep snowfields. Later less snow, but now many broken trees and branches blocked the way. No major problem, but I advanced slowly. First ford at 47.7: difficult. Second ford at 48.4: very difficult! That was no fun, strong stream over my thighs, I could dare it only, because I found a spot, where two rocks are quite close, so I had to stand the stream only for a second, before I could cramp to the next rock. The OSM here is not correct, perhaps the river has a new bed. After the puesto the trail was cleaned up/bypassing broken trees easier. I finally moved quicker. Camp at 57.0.
Day 4: Difficulties continued. Very cold in the morning, wet socks and shoes frozen; 5 fords, that are not indicated, all no major problem, but none with dry feet. The swamp before the puesto at 61.7 is bigger now (in spring?), several hundred meters of the trail under water. Again more fords than indicated, all easy, but one: water (flowing slowly) to my belly (1,97m!). The water reached to the lower part of the backpack. Didn‘t see anyone at the Los Peucos camp site. At the ford at 71.3 the water was neither very high nor very strong, but more than 100m to go the other bank! The following MR very welcome, finally allowed to move quicker. Camp on RR at around 77.5 directly on the trail.

Day 5: I took OH08F and walked the 28,6 km MR. Met several arrieros (very friendly!) and at the Embalse Vega Larga two fishermen, father and son, who „sold“ me (they didn‘t want to take
money, I insisted) two fishes, they had just grilled over a fire. Ford at the end of the MR to get back to RR: difficult. The Laguna Laja has more water than on OSM, at the spot, where the ford is indicated, one could swim to the other side, but the backpack… Camp at Laguna Laja with an extraordinary view on the mountains in the south.
Day 6: RR, trail first hardly visible, very good after the lake. On the ridge very windy, a lot of snow - but great view. On the way down the weather seemed to turn, so at 105.4 I took OH 06. The weather kept good, but nonetheless a good decision. When you are down in the valley, the trail and then the MR lead through a wonderful forest. Great spots to camp along the MR after the puesto (gate) but 100 before the Enel substation.
Day 7: Clouds at around 900 hm, good to be down in the valley. On a hot summer day, it’s probably very annoying to walk 15 km on a dusty MR - on a cool morning in spring, it was the opposite, and shortened by half, as an Enel worker gave me a ride to the exit of the hydropower area; from there 30min to the PR, then hitchhiked to Antuco for resupply and walked back into the direction of Abanico, as I found a nice cabana in Peluca (Villa Peluca, +56 9 8920 5676). 15 min. after my arrival heavy rain and storm for several hours.

*'''2024-04-12 to 2024-04-15 / 3 Days / Hiking SOBO) / RR / Alex + Andrey'''
Option from Termas de Chillan
My favorite section for autumn and a perfect weekend escape from the big city.
Difficulty: Moderate
It’s not hot and there’s almost no dust after a little rain.
The foliage of the trees turns into autumn colors!
Fords are simple.
Although Ford (easy) {08} [48.4/1334] has unusually more water for mid-April, photo attached in FB post.
Thanks to Matthias de Austria for clearing access to the stream at the west shore of Laguna Robles. It is a whole year source of fresh water before the ridge.
The Lagunillas Camping now is https://www.parqueantuco.cl/

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-28 // 4,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT E + VARIANT D // Quentin Clavel'''

After few days off at Los Angeles, I took the bus to Abanico then hitchhike until the junction between the trail and the road. I had to pay at the park ranger gate the 5K CLP for the entrance of the park (online reservation only, impossible to pay cash, and there's hardly mobile service up there, so prepare yourself by advance ☺️).

Then, you go straight up, and have stunning views over volcan Antuco and siella velluda. I had to check my GPS few times on this first part, and to change my trajectoire to stay on the RR and don't miss trailheads.

I slept at Laguna lágrima. I don't know if it comes from the water here, but I had stomach issues the following days ...

Views on this first part were absolutely wonderful !

The thermals of Los Peucos are just amazing ! Worth the stop, clean, well maintened, and with perfect temperature of water ! Sergio was so kind, he even invited me to lunch with him, that was a very nice break in this day !

Some swampy parts after the Puesto {08} [61.7/1298].

The hike up to the plateau (KM42) was physical, but it results to stunning views over the volcan chillan, and all the wonderful surroundings! There were hundreds of cows on that plateau and it was quite swampy, at the end you reach a super nice camp with incredible thermals ! Best hot springs of the GPT so far for me !

Continue to the pass and arrive in the volcanic plateau, very great too. I was too amazed by the landscape that I lost myself ! I was following a pretty clear track and missed to go on the right of the valley. I had hard time to join the RR as I tried to shortcut, but it was very demanding, sleepy and with losing rocks. Would have been better to backtrack at the junction and find again the RR, anyway...

After a way down where there's just a little overgrown part (for no more than 300m) I reached the terrible Rio Ñuble, that was (I was fortunate) easy to pass for me, at this time of the season, even with quite strong current.

From then I only met amazing people, up for a chat and full of an absolute kindness ! Carabineros first, locals, and Sandra at the microshop in puente el inglés (that was my only option for ressuply (chips, biscuits, fresh drinks, pastas) but at the middle of nothing I was happy about that !)).

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-23 / 5.5 days / SOBO / RR,E,RR,H,RR/ Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Took the bus from rural terminal in Chillán at 8am to Termas de Chillán. After option 2, I walked NOBO on the RR to the nice hot springs at 40.3, spent the day there and camped at 40.4.

Day 2- Walked the dusty trail to Camping Los Peucos. Ford at 48.4: crossed about 400 meters upstream of the waypoint for the ford. The main flow is quite strong, so I looked for a spot where it was slightly more diverted. Got to camping Los Peucos and got offered a cabin with electricity for the same price as camping as heavy rain was forecasted for the next day (10k/night). Used the wifi which is pretty good around the ranger’s cabin. Hung out in the hot springs being chatted up by a 80-yo man who didn’t seem to care whether I understood all of what he said or not.

Day 3 - 45mm rain - Rest day. The nicest campground attendant, Sergio, let me hang out in his cabin by the fire all day.

Day 4 - Walked mostly on RR but using variant E on the road as the RR trail is overgrown and the trees were soaking wet after yesterday’s downpour. Met two people in a truck that worked for the pipeline that is along that road. Didn’t see anyone else. Camped at Laguna Laja.

Day 5 - Followed the RR except for variant H. Camped at the edge of the forest before the camp waypoint 119.7/1520, didn’t find ants to be problematic. Met a group of 5 young hikers going to Laguna Los Condores right before camp.

Day 6 - Hiked RR and GPT09 option 1A to Salto de las Chicas. Got a ride quickly to Antuco, where I went to the nice supermarket and took a room in town.

* '''2024-03-11 to 2024-03-16 / 5.5 days / SOBO / OH2, RR, Variant C, RR, G, RR / Tobi & Fangwen'''

Bus to Thermas de Chillan departs 12:30 from Rural bus station in Chillan arrives around 5pm

Hot springs @ KM40.3 indeed one of the best on the GPT - nice mix of hot waterfall and cold spring in one pool. Campsite there is not sheltered from wind, and a fair bit of trash left behind. Definitely worth the small detour from Thermas de Chillan

Baños de Peucos are great for a half rest day, Sergio (caretaker) is the nicest and most welcoming host.

At Laguna El Roble, the better campsite is on the western shore - there is one flowing water source along the edge of the forest a bit north of the campsite (lake gets a bit gross end of season).

Between El Roble and Hermosa, there is cellular reception when on the western side of the ridge (Movistar).

Laguna Hermosa is nice, there is one flat and South wind sheltered campsite behind the bushes on the north side of the lake. It's nice to walk around the lake, some easy scrambling. Do expect power lines overhead.

The two hot springs, and the last ridge hike were definitely the highlights of this GPT section.

The bus leaving Albanico for Las Angeles goes at between 5-6pm -ish

Rest very straightforward, and as described below (dusty, dead horse).

* '''2024-Feb-25 to 2024-March-4 / 7.5 days / SOBO / RR B D/ Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfiels, almost no Tabanos, except in the forenoon (none in the evening) at Laguna El Roble, about 30 to 40 Tabanos in 3 hours, on 1st of March!
Mostly plenty of water, lots of unmarked streams. No water at 106.7 and at camp 119.7, dried up.

Lots of dirt roads and paths veeery dusty.

No camp at 106.6. Flat spot few hundred meters after at -37.24567,-71.39142. But no protection and no water.

Fordings: all very easy except Rio Nuble. Crossed Nuble at ford 23.7, did not scout. It was deeper then it looked and for a meter or so I (187cm, 100kg) had a little fighting with the current. It was the first somewhat serious ford in my life. Got my undies a bit washed. Forded Rio Diguillin at -36.93549, -71.40313, where I saw horsetracks on the ground. Water around kneedeep, for a half meter strong current, but I simply step over it. I marked this easy ford position with a vertical tree stump, might be there until the next storm or flooding. Ford 66.4 was possible dry foot a bit east, but go back to RR afterwards, the road on the map does not exist anymore and this area is a jungle.

At -36.94783,-71.41243 easy to miss junction.

Camps: 1st shortly after the bridge at puente el ingles in the sand. Nice swimming next to it, but no morning sun until noon. 2nd abou q00 to 200m upstream of ford 23.7 next to Rio Nuble. Nice bolders, big pool, but strong current and very cold. 3rd camp 36.2, meadows quite wet, limited protection, just a few bushes. Small cold pool 150m away at Rio Las Minas. 4th a few hundred meters before ford 47.4 on a small flat spot next to the path. Nice camp shortly northwest of trailhead 80.5. Big nice pool at Rio Polcura for swimming next to where option 1 fords. West side Camp at Laguna El Roble as east has shallow water. Stream next to camp dried up, I found a small one a bit further north along the shore. Had to clean up 2m of thick bushes for water access. Camp at Laguna Hermosa very windy, but just follow the black cable to the west for maybe 20m, then go 3m through the treebushes and you are in a little quit well wind protected clearing: -37.274802,-71.383647. Camp 119.7, but water dried up, and very dusty and limited protection, not a good camp. There are some meadows a few hundred m further around the puesto, also no water there in March.

Men cleaning up the RR path north of Los Peucos. Some workers at the camp, but the ranger is working on the trail. No ranger means no firewood for cooking, no wifi and the thermas are without water. So no point in staying there and I move a bit further camp on some dusty place next to the road with a bit clambering river access. Next morning first morning frost.

Hot spring 40.3 is absolutely amazing. Best one I saw on the GPT. Stayed there for hours naked and got a bit sunburned. The "smoking river" a few hundred meters further west is also worth seeing.

Lots of blackberries along RR Rio Los Sauces.

Hardly any paths around camp 29.5 for a few hundred meters, overgrown or landslided. Not a big problem, just slows you down.

Long boring road, but hitch until police station shortly after ford 12.2km. Police friendly, wants passport, detail plans and phone number in case of emergency.

Gate at -36.81995,-71.25333, entry forbidden sign. easy to climb.

RR after junction E is partly overgrown, but still walkable, just slows you down.

Combined Section 7 and 8, in total 17 days, with lots of bathing and sitting around. Run out of food the last few days and had to restrict to one portion per day, which made me even slower due to lack of energy. But it was totally worth it. Still have way too much body fat. Last ridge one of the most beautiful parts of the GPT, stunning views and diverse path.

Hitch ruta Q-45 to Antuco.

Work in progress

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-28 / 4.5 days / SOBO / RR / Gabriele - Trails of Wander'''

Day 1 (0.5) - Termas de Chillan - near Camp 08 [42.3/2087]. Late start at around noon from OH-Tl-V 08-02 [2.6+3.3] (Thermas de Chillan Parking) after hitch-hiking from Las Trancas. Reached Las Trancas with RemBus from the Chillan Rural Bus Terminal La Merced. The Sendero Valle Aguas Calientes have been re-routed for a few 100s meters after the fumaroles and it stays higher than the original track. Easy to follow. Once in the Valle Aguas Calientes I continued to Hot Spring 08 [40.3/2173] NOBO which is really a must do on this section and then retraced back to a camping area about 200 m lower than Camp 08 [42.3/2087] that I thought was dryer, flatter and had good access to water.

Day 2 - Camp 08 [42.3/2087] Valle Aguas Calientes - Los Peucos CONAF Hot Spings Camping. I followed the RR for this day. The only note of relevance is that the ford of Rio Diguillin at [48.4/1334] is still hips high with strong current and need to be approached with trekking poles and cautiously. The critical part is only about 2 meters wide, but the current is strong. Water is not particularly cold.

Day 3 - Los Peucos CONAF Hot Spings Camping - camp on Laguna Del Laja shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614]. I was lucky to get a ride for 3-4 km right out of Los Peucos by a CONAF maintenance crew who was going to do some tree cleaning on a minor road down the valley. This route branched out from the RR MR and according to the crew it is shorter to get to the Camino Oleoducto road. The alternative route turns into a faint trail for the last km or so and it crosses Rio Polcura in a very easy and shallow spot with water always below knee and calm current. After the crossing it overlaps with OH-CC-a 08-D for the last km, then it meets RR MR shortly after the ford on the RR. This alt route is flat and easy and possibly shorter of about 1-2 km than RR. On Camino Oleoducto I was also able to hitch-hike for about another 3-4 km to reach the start of the Sendero Los Ratones RR-Tl-V 08[80.6]. Thanks to the rides I was able to reach Laguna Del Laja quicker than expected. I decided to camp on the lake shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614] rather than continuing to Laguna El Roble as the spot was scenic. There I met Hugo, the Arriero who stays at the Puesto nearby Laguna El Roble.

Day 4 - Camp on Laguna del Laja shore at [-37.12935, -71.18614] - Laguna Hermosa. I just followed the RR for this day with the exception of the short CC to Laguna Hermosa where I camped for the night.

Day 5 - Camp at Laguna Hermosa - Camping Lagunilla (10k CLP per day). Also followed RR for this final day. Camping Lagunilla is very good with hot showers and very nice camp sites. Unfortunately no more homemade empanadas, only bebidas from this week moving forward for the remaiming of the season. The following morning I easily hitch-hiked to Abanico where there are small stores and took the bus to Los Angeles at 1 pm.

Overall a good section with variety of landscapes and views particularly around Volcan Chillan / Aguas Calientes and along the traverse above Laguna Del Laja with great views of Volcan Antuco and the Sierra Velluda.

* '''2024-Feb-20 to 2024-Feb-27 / 8 days / Hiking / NOBO / El Abanaico - Puente El Inglés / RR + Option H + Option B / Alex & Christophe'''

It was a really nice section for us. The part we really loved was from Thermas de Chillan to Rio Nuble. It felt more wild and with less people. So even if you fear Rio Nuble, avoiding this part would be a mistake for us. We think that the edge between km 117.3 and 100.6 also really worth it but can't totally know as we were in the fog.

A lot has already been said but here is what seems important to us:

We started the section hitchhiking from Antuco with a easy and fast ride to El Abanico.

There is some apple trees in the valley near Ford {08} [71.3/1089] and apples were nearly ready to be eaten.

Los Peucos were a nice stop to relax but we weren't alone as a lot of the previous comment. 2 other parties (horse riders) were also camping the same night as us. The road is being improved so this will maybe become a bit more popular than the last 2 months. It was 10'000 CLP pp for us, with firewood and Internet. We didn't try to connect so we can't comment on the speed and quality.

Ford {08} [48.4/1334] (Rio Diguilin) wasn't that hard. Just follow the horse track as it's a good place to ford and there will only be 1m with some current. It's still deep but we ford it at 6pm without any trouble. The best thing with this ford is that the water is warm and you can try to ford it without your backpack a few times before you're sure of the place you like the more. All this without frozen toes ;)

Ford {08} [23.7/950] (Rio Nuble) was ok but still not a piece of cake. We crossed it at 11:30 am and didn't thought it was so deep before going in. I had water nearly to my waist (I'm 174cm tall) and the current in the center is clearly present. The good point is that the river is not ice cold, so you can take your time and go slowly, being sure of the position of your feet and poles.

For the last 12 km, between El Roble and Puente El Inglés, it's full of fruit trees. It felt like being in a free fruit market. We could pick apples, pears, a lot of blackberries. There were even fig tree but it was a little bit too soon. So nice to have a bit of vitamin and fresh food after 8 days.

Finally, after asking at the mini-shop in Puente El Inglés, we learned that there is no more bus going to San Fabián. So we took a beer and some french fries before camping near the bridge after a pretty long day. The next day we walked an hour before we could catch a ride to San Fabián.

* '''Feb-9-2024 to Feb-14-2024 / 5 days ( of which 2 half days) / SOBO / Oh2, RR, var B, D, E, H / Matthieu'''

Very beautiful and diverse section, with the volcan, pastures of agua caliente, the forest and the rock and thorny bushed mountains.
At the end of the section, I suggest to follow RR to the lagunilla camping, it's an easy trail in the park, and 2 very nice cascadas to see. From the park entrance there is an osm track that cross Section 9 RR, direclty to the campsite, so you never have to walk on the road.
I started at Oh 2 to avoid rio Ñuble.

Trecking difficulties :
1) River crossing of rio Diguillin 48.4 is still not a peace of cake. The current is strong, and where i crossed it was max to the hips in the rapid water. I went on a large place with big rocks on the way to hide behind, it cuts the crossing into 3 difficult but very short parts, and you can hug the rocks not to fall.
2) The pass before Laguna Laja is a cemetery of trees, so the progression is a little bit slow but nothing difficult, it's basic gps navigation.
3) The part between laguna hermosa and Water 118.3 is steep, sliperry with rocks and sand. The tracks are difficult to follow at times. So the progression is slow, i suggest not to start it at the end of the day. I finished on var H without noticing it, just saw the trail from below. I was exhausted when i put my tent at camp 119.7 (an horrible mistake, see below).

Camp :
At Fumaroles at the beginning of Oh 2, some flat spaces in the valley and a clear cold river - Ford 50.5, arriero camp super nice - 300m before water 1.5 on var E, a nice flat place but very exposed. I wanted to camp at 72.9, incredible place, but a freshly dead horse was waiting for me, the whole place stinked like hell. Wanted to try to camp on RR along the rio after but it was overgrown at the beginning and it was late so back on var E - Laguna el Roble 98.3. It is an arriero spot with a clear river that goes into the lake. There is a trail into the trees that takes you into the beach for nice camp places. You don't really want to drink directly from the lake, so i don't suggest camp 97.8 (no fresh water). There is a puesto before the last uphill to the lake, really nice arriero inside who advised me this - Camp 119.7 : DON'T sleep there, the whole hill is an enormous nest of unfriendly red ants, I had to cook directly in my inner tent. The river runs very slow to so the water not good. So i suggest camp at the lagunas before, or if you still have courage to follow until the cross country after puesto 120, it's heaven for tents with view on antuco and the river is not far.

Water : all markers correct, no concerns until the final ridge.
For the ridge walk of cerro el toro, you can find water at camp without water 102.3 (so this year its name should be with water), water 106.6, laguna hermosa, laguna lagrima (the very little one after the cerro), and nothing after on RR until water 118.

Snow : one patch on Oh 2 on the track, but you can avoid it by a sendero litteraly 10m above, with no problems. No other patches.

Accomodations : bus from Chillan rural terminal, to thermas de Chillan at 14h, you have to walk from vale hermoso to the beginning of Oh2 - Camping Lagunilla, 10k per day, homemade empanadas sandwichs bebidas and cakes, very calm i loved it. For buses, you have to walk to albanico (6 per day for los angeles, of which 9h30, 11h, 15h30, 18h30).

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + RR + OH E + H + J / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH08-02

I took the bus at 2 pm from the rural bus station in Chillan to the Thermas de Chillan. From there I had to roadwalk 1.5 km to get to OH08-02. There are a few snow fields left around the Pass Pirigallo, but its easy to walk over them. At km 1.2 of OH08-02 I took the Valle de Agua Caliente Trail as short cut to the Camp at 42.3 on the RR. I did not like the spot there, but close to it at -36,91092, -71,36632 are some decent tent spots.

Day 2: RR [42.3-75.1] + OH08-E

The Ford at km 47.4 was max. knee high at 10 pm. (I am 191 cm tall). Be carefull fording Rio Diguillin at km 48.4. The water was just below my hips and the current was pretty strong (around 10:30 pm). I forded it about 60 m upstream of the gpx tracks. There was a big rock in the middle of the river to which I could hold on to. At km 59.6 is a closed barb wire gate that I couldn't open. I managed to climb over it, but it's a little tricky. The RR leads on to the property of the Thermas Los Peucos (km 63.9). After the ford at km 63.7 I had to step over a barded wire fence (no gate). Los Peucos was closed and I didn't see anybody. I didn't like the idea of trespassing so I climb over the front gate (km 63.9) and continued on RR. OH08-B might be a good alternativ to avoid Los Peucos. But I meet Ricardo a few km further south. He was on his way to Los Peucos. If I understood him correctly (my spanish is pretty basic) than he is going to be at Los Peucos for the next two months. So they should be open now if you are interested in taking a break there. There are two easy fords at km 70.0 and 70.6 on the RR. The river at Ford 71.3 is wide, but water was below knees in thr evening. I wanted to camp at km 72.9, but I found the body of a horse directly at the camping spot. It looked like it had died a few days ago and it smelled pretty bad. Therefore I continued to the camp at km 78.6. I accidently stayed on the dirtroad and walked variant E. It has some extra altitude but therefore some nice views into the valley. Water 0.7 on variant E was dry. All other water and ford Waypoints I passed today had water.

Day 3: RR [78.5-107.0]

Laguna El Roble is a nice break spot and the last water source until km 106.7. At the Camp Marker km 106,6 is only a overgrown meadow which isn't flat at all. But there is a descent camp spot at km 106,9. The Water at km 106.7 is only a trickle and might dry out soon. All Water markers I passed by today had water.

Day 4: RR [107.0-115.2] + OH08-H + RR [116.3-117.4] + OH08-J + RR [117.4-134.5]

The next water source after km 106.7 is Laguna Lagrima at km 113.5. I accidently hiked OH08-H instead of RR. Laguna Los Condores is pretty nice. But the last few hundred meters of OH08-J are overgrown and not so easy to walk trough. Its easier to follow the trail that leads to the eastern side of the Laguna and forks of at about km 0.6 of OH08-J. From this trail you can go down to the Laguna. There is water at all markers.

The part from km 100 to km 117 is very spectacular.

* '''2024 Jan 25 to Feb 5 / 12 days / SOBO / Opt 2, Opt 3, RR, Var D, Opt 6 + 2 OSM routes / Michael and Kasia'''

TL/DR: A beautiful but exhausting section.Reserva Nacional Ñubles is officially closed, but they are still letting people in. If taking Opt 3, look for the trail that starts just after El Trumao heading NE for a more interesting hike. Los Peucos is open, but has no food or power so not currently a resupply option.

Day 0 -
We took the bus from Chillan to Recinto hoping to camp for the night and take the early bus up to Termas de Chillán to begin the hike. (The bus that goes all the way to the hotel only goes twice a day. Both leave from the Terminal Rural in Chillan one at 08:00, the second at 14:00.) There were no camping options in Recinto, so we walked to Los Lleuques. We found a hostel called Antupiren at the entrance of town. 13.000 pp for private with shared bathroom, very nice owners. They have a restaurant too. There were some other places with signs for hostal and campamento further down the street. There are 4 or 5 shops and grocery stores in town. If you stay in Lleuques, a little further on is a nice public access beach along the river called La Playita that is popular with locals and a good place to escape the heat for the afternoon.

Day 1 -
We got up early and were at the bus stop at 08:15. The bus arrived at around 09:30. It only goes as far as the hotel and then you have to walk about 1 km up to the ski center where the trail begins. The beginning of the trail was steep and dusty, then leveled off a bit. It passes by some fumeroles. There are two paths up to the pass. One is not on GPT or OSM at the moment, but it is a marked path that is clearly visible. It goes more to the left and up. The other is a horse trail which is the one GPT goes along. They both meet about half way up. We took the horse trail up. There is some grassy area and access to a stream. Nice views of the valley on the way up. Close to the top there was still a small snow field left and the way around it was walking above it on large, loose rocks. We had resupplied for 8 days and our packs were around 25 kg each. Due to this we felt it would be unsafe for us to try to navigate the section so we decided to walk back. It was disappointing, but we were also thinking about the difficulties others had in crossing Rio Diguillin further on and figured it was an early warning. On the way back we took the marked path which was actually more difficult than the GPT track, which surprised us since it looked more like a tourist trail. We were rewarded at one point however with a spring gushing out of the ground and took the opportunity to get fresh cold water without the need to filter. When we got back to where the fumeroles were, we chatted with some mountain bikes and a couple of hikers. There is another route down which had an OSM track on the map. The bikers explained that it is the route they all take down. It is open to hikers as well and there are signs advising bikers to watch for hikers, but the biker said there are a lot of curves and it is possible to get hit on the way down if you are unlucky. It was around 18:30 and he said they were the last group, so if we just waited for them to leave we should be able to hike down without worrying. We waited, and it was totally worth it. The trail down is very dusty, but with much less incline than the way up, and at a certain point goes through a really beautiful beech forest with lots of wildflowers growing. There is no access to the estero until the bridge at the end. We tried to find a place to camp, but no luck. We ended up walking the highway back to a point where we had seen a dirt road connect to the estero and camped there for the night. Not optimal, but it was already dark by that point, so we were just grateful to sleep.

Days 2 and 3 -
We walked the highway until the Los Coltrahues nature trail that runs parallel to the highway and then walked that to Las Trancas. It was a pretty path and a nice alternative to the highway. In Las Trancas we bought food for lunch and dinner at a shop next to the bus stop. There are one or two other stores back the direction of Lleuques as well. A micro picked us up and dropped us off at the beginning of Opt 3. We had barely started walking when a family in a truck passed and offered us a ride to the river. We were incredibly grateful as the first 3 km of the road is incredibly dusty and there is actually a lot of traffic moving through. From where they left us we walked to the bridge and down to the river to have lunch and coffee. Lots of families were camping around the area. After lunch we got back on the route. A little further on the road was closed to vehicles due to storm damage and construction adding new culverts. No issues walking it. About 6km from the bridge there is a campground called San Antonio. It was also closed since the road was closed, but it was easy to get into. There are picnic tables and plenty of camping along with river access. We camped two nights to give ourselves a rest day. A few locals passed through, but no one else camped. It was very peaceful except for the tábanos. I killed more than 50 over the course of the day and it didn't seem to make much of a difference.

Day 4 -
We got up early to beat the heat and walked the first hour in the dark. We passed the area where the road has collapsed and where they are doing a reroute. No issue to walk it. We arrived at the gate that Lilian mentioned, the one with the dogs, at 08:00. There were 4 dogs that bark a lot. The guard came out, it seemed like we had woken him up. We explained what we were doing and he actually had no problem letting us through, but asked rhetorically what we were going to say to CONAF upstairs. The road up is in good shape. There were a few places to fill water along the way. When we arrived at El Trumao there was a CONAF guard there as well as some other people. He was incredibly nice, just registered us and then told us because the park is officially closed there was no fee to enter. He looked at our route and told us about another option, charged our phones for us, let us take water, and then even walked with us part way. The OSM track that runs along the river is a really nice option and we really enjoyed it. The first part is no longer relevant as the river destroyed part of the road and CONAF had done a reroute. If no one is there to show you, head along the GPT route toward Valle Hermosa until you see a trail branch to the left. It will be very obvious as it has wooden posts painted yellow on top and the whole trail has rocks lining either side. Follow that up. The first part was a lot of up and exposed, but after a while we entered native forest and enjoyed stretches that were in shade. There was a rest area with river access. Just after the waterfall lookout the trail dropped down a bit into a grove of old oak trees that was really nice and we camped there for the night (-36.95540, -71.45022) River access was about 100 m further on. This is a really great route option. It is along a trail instead of a road, it drops into RR about 18 km further north than finishing Opt 3 as marked, if you want to go to Los Peucos, you don't need to back track, and it stays on the south side of Rio Diguillin, connecting with RR just after the ford point others had trouble with this season. (Jan, if you read this, we enthusiastically endorse this as a variant for Opt 3!).

Days 5 and 6 -
The pass was a little overgrown, but nothing too challenging. On the way up we passed through a beautiful forest. We stopped at the last marked water point on the way up for a snack and coffee. The way down was dusty and then it opened up into a plain. The plain was easy, but as we went around the corner it turned into a swamp. The GPT route avoids the worst of it, but careful foot choice is important in some places. It was also really hot and humid. Then it was up again and then down again to get to Los Peucos. We initially followed RR, but the ford point looked challenging and there was barbed wire on the other side. I went across without my pack to try to find a way up. The rocks in the river were really slippery and I feel in at one point, but no injury. On the other side I climbed under the wire and up a hill. Then I had to climb under more barbed wire. I walked onto the property and ran into Ricardo who manages Los Peucos. He was very nice, and took me to show me the front entrance and a much easier ford point that is defined for cars to pass, which turned out to be Var B. So if going to Los Peucos SOBO, I recommend taking Var B. I went back to get Kasia and my pack and we camped there for two nights in order to clean out gear and take a rest day.

A few notes on Los Peucos. Los Peucos is open, price this year is 5.000 pp for termales only, 10.000 pp for camping, 24 hours of access to termales and wood to make a fire in a fire pit. They were having trouble with both their generator and solar panels and have been without power for two months, so don't plan to charge anything there. Also a section of the road there was destroyed over the winter, so almost no one is going there and they aren't getting any resupply for their tiendita, so don't plan on this as a resupply point until someone posts that this has changed, which may be awhile since there seems to be some bureaucratic issue preventing the road from being fixed.

Day 7 -
We left Los Peucos just as it was getting light. The road and trail are in good condition for walking. We took Var D to cross Rio Polcura. River ford was easy, thigh high but very little current. We stopped at the camp at [72.9/1104] to have lunch. There were some arrieros and Carabineros already camped for the night, and it was too early to stop for the day, so we continued on. The valley path that RR follows is surely more interesting than walking the road along Var E, but it is fairly overgrown with spiky plants and it was slow going. There is almost no river access along the path, but there were one or two streams. We do not recommend the camp at [78.6/1203], especially if you are using a trekking pole supported tent. It is overgrown and difficult to access, anything that is not sand is covered in those annoying plants that leave tiny spiky balls attached to your clothes, and river access is not great. We ended up camping in the old road grade just above, but it was pure dust. We really regretted camping here, however it was late and we didn't know if there would be any place else to camp further on. (There is though!)

Day 8 -
We were to tired to do the pass, but we didn't want to stay camped in the same place for the day. We found a better campsite just 2 km further up trail (-37.09454, -71.31211). Just before the trailhead to the pass, on the left side of the road, there is a dirt path going down to a camping area that arrieros use (it is the same road as the end of Opt 1). It has grass and could fit probably two or three tents. The river access is about 100 m away, but it was really clean access with a stone beach and even a small sand beach and a great swimming spot to cool off. There is essentially no shade so it wasn't great for a rest day in that respect, but it was directly below the pass, so a great starting point for that. We took advantage of the river and washed all the dust off the tent. The fabric felt like new afterward!

Day 9 -
We got up early to try to tackle the pass before sun hit. The trailhead is a little easier to find now as more arrieros and hikers have gone through. The pass up is overgrown in places, but not as bad as we had expected. There were some great early morning views. Something killed most of the forest in that valley some time ago and all the dead trees are sun bleached white which was really interesting. As Lilian mentioned, there is a place where the trail collapsed. People have been walking about 5 m upstream and crossing there, but the short reroute is eroding and it looked a little sketchy to us. We went into the stream bed and climbed up through the bamboo to regain the trail. It was lovely forest higher up and on the other side for some time. Keep a lookout for a nice view of Laguna del Laja from a distance on the way down. The valley was another world entirely. Completely exposed, mostly dry but with some sections of swamp, we lost the trail a few times in a maze of overgrown thorn bushes. We took an afternoon break at the puesto just before reaching the lake. We were a little underwhelmed by the lake itself, I think because it has no trees around. We got a little lost on the way up to Laguna Roble, but a very friendly and helpful arriero staying at the puesto at the end of the valley saw us and came out to help direct us up. We stopped at the marked campsite at the east side of the lake. Previous entries had suggested the west side campsite is more wind protected. I went packless to scout it, but I could not see any way in and the water access near the site looked like marsh. We stayed on the east side, no wind issue for the night. The water in the lake was not too cold, so nice to swim in.

Day 10 -
We started early to get through as much of the pass as possible before the sun hit. The beginning of the trail was actually hard to find, but once we were on it, it was clear. The up was very demanding and exhausting, and it was overgrown in parts. There is a saddle just before the final push to the pass where we stopped to take a break and some pictures (great view of the lake, volcan Antuco and Sierra Velluda) but there were biting ants everywhere that swarmed us and our packs so we moved on. Good views of both valleys as we walked along. Reports from previous years suggested no water between Laguna Roble and Laguna Hermosa. There was at least two water points between, one of which was a very nice spring with shade around (-37.21425, -71.37259). Being exhausted and running low on supplies, we had already decided that Opt 6 would be our exit from GPT08. The route down was steep and thus slow, but clear and easy to follow. There are multiple water points on the way down. We camped about 1 km in at the first marked campsite. There was a shady, somewhat flat, somewhat grassy area that arrieros use for camping and a spring flowing just below. It was a nice spot after hiking so many hours completely exposed in full sun.

Day 11 -
The first part of Opt 6 down was really nice. There were nice views of the mountains as the sun came up, then it goes into forest for awhile before the arriero path finally meets the service road. We were also fortunate to have cloud cover for most of the day. There are a few unmarked water points between the last marked one and Rayenco. Rayenco is not a settlement but connected to the power plant. Shortly after Rayenco there is what looks like an abandoned picnic area and sports concha. We stopped for lunch, and it could be used for emergency camping if necessary. Hitchhiking out seems essentially impossible. It's just cars associated with the power plant, and our experience is that those vehicles don't take hitchhikers, probably a company policy. We walked to the highway, chatting with the gate guard on the way out. On the highway it took about half an hour, but finally a kind soul, Sergio, who had actually passed us, turned around and came back just to pick us up and dropped us at Plaza de Armas un Antuco. We found lodging at Cabañas Puelche 2 blocks east of the plaza, 15.000 pp for a private room in the hostel portion of the establishment, shared bath, fridge, pool.

* '''2024 Jan 05 to 2024 Jan 09 / 5 days/ SOBO from Termas de Chillan / RR / Hannes&Christian'''

1. Day: Walked from Termas de Chillan to Rio Diguillín. Slept there at -36.935262, -71.403804 and forded the next morning around -36.935730, -71.401841. Thought there would be less water running in the morning, but actually it looked pretty the same as the day before…
2. Day: Walked to Los Peucos and further down for a nice campsite near the river -37.046868,
-71.415394
3. Day: We took Option D to short cut the minor road…easy to walk, CC, recomendable…then along road and path and road again, up to a pass in the woods and down to a widening valley, camped at -37.15603, -71.32019. As others already wrote on wikiexplora we had there as well a pretty freezing night around 0 degrees Celsius I think, although the spot was not that high….around 1450m. A lot of humidity.
4. Day: For us here the nicest part started, walking down to Laguna de la Laja, up to a pass and then all along ridges to Laguna Hermosa. Amazing views. Instead of walking down to L. Hermosa you can camp as well a little above the lake around -37.269841, -71.381748 with water access, at least in early summer I guess. Personally I think it isn’t worth to go down to the Laguna (except no water possibility above) , first because you’ll have an electric power line over your head sleeping there (there is a hydroelectric power station in the valley nearby), second because it can be a windy place at shore…at least for us it was like this. Third: Still something like 1 km from the ridge. Choose yourself.
5. Day: From L. Hermosa to Estación de Esqui. Pretty nice views of surrounding peaks, at the end we walked a pretty annoying road out to the ski area. Then we hitchhiked to Camping Lagunillas, an amazing place with very nice owners. Feels there like being on the Gpt, but with running water and shower. Probably depends on the season…

* '''2024 Jan 13 / 5 days / SOBO / RR, OH-TL / Anh'''

Everyone feared Ñuble, me too, so I took option 2.

The trail was difficult to find from km 112-117, I left RR and took OH-TL. Otherwise the trail was easy to see. There were only a few snowfields that were easy to cross.

Ford km 48.4: Disclaimer: please do not my mistake! I first tried two best possible spots (hip), but the flow (13:00) was too strong, I couldn’t hold my hiking poles. Then 50m further on I saw two tree trunks arranged like bridges from other GPTs. After crossing them, however, it was not possible to go back to RR after a few attempts. My best possible option was BB with 70 degree slope straight up. It was only possible with bamboo trees, but was very dangerous. I'm writing my mistake here so you can avoid it!

Camp km 106.6: I included this camp in my daily plan (about 20km, 1000m uphill, 350m downhill). here is not possible to find 1qm flat spot. So I had to walk 4km further from my reserve.

* '''2024-Jan-11 to 2024-Jan-15/ 4.5 days / SOBO / Termas de Chillán(Var 2)+RR+Var G+H+J(Lakes)/ Matthias'''

Started in Termas de Chillán. Hiking, most fordings (see day 1) and orientation was quite easy on this section. Only on last part of Travesía Pilcura some steep snowfields to cross. Warm and hot creeks on first day (Fondo Aguas Calientes), views and lakes on forth day (Travesía Pilcura) were spectacular. Plenty of water everywhere. A lot of annoying horse flies.

Day1: Termas de Chillán - km53.6
Only minor snowfields. Ascent of Volcán Chillán Viejo should be possible without crampons, no snow on steep upper slopes. Fumaroles on ascent from Termas, warm creek with pools right when you come down to Fondo Aguas Calientes. Also people camping there. I underestimated ford at km48.4 (Rio Diguillín), water was up to upper hips and current, I was washed away… But overall no dangerous crossing and with more cautious selection the fording should be easier. Arrieros at puesto at km49.6 (Coihuería) were the last people I met until end of section!

Day2: Reserva Nacional Ñubles
Officially the reserva was closed. I entered Termas Los Peucos via RR, watering of meadows was running, I said „Hello“ but nobody answered.
Took a bath in the beautiful hot springs, two stone-walled pools.

Day 3: km78.6 (Rio Ñubles) - km98.3 (Laguna El Roble)
Easy day … nice swimming at the camp with fireplace in the evening

Day 4: Travesía Polcura - Laguna ElToro
Spectacular day: great views, mountains, lakes and path.
The detours to the lakes (var G+J, Laguna Hermosa, ElToro and Los Condores) are worthwhile!
Some steep snowfields on RR below Cerro El Toro, I used microspikes, but in a warm afternoon you can also safely cross without. Beautiful (!!) camp at Laguna El Toro with sun until 19:45 though it’s deep in a cirque.

Day5:
Nice view of Volcán Antuco from the ridge just before the volcán (ca. km125). I left the road and walked +-height parallel to the solar collectors which are visible on the ridge from the MR.
From Curva El Candado I tramped down most of the road to the junction to Abanico, where I ate lunch at the friendly cafe/restaurant „Roca“ and where the bus to Los Angeles leaves at 15:00.

* '''2023-Dec-28 to 2024-Jan-01 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / {08-03} - {08-C} - RR - {08-06} - {08-06B} / Lilian'''

Avoid of crossing Rio Ñuble, i go for {08-03}.

There is a bus from Chillán to Los Lleuques at 18:00, take about 1.5 hour. A small shop and some tiny shops there, friendly and good resupply. Look like have some restaurants too, but i'm too late so they're already closed.

{08-03} km3.3 : tiny shop selling drinks.

Km4.3 : camping spots or camping possibilities start from here to south.

Km11.3 : ranger station for guard of Reserva National, look like need booking in advance or some permits. Otherwise you can't go in by this gate. (It is impossible for sneak in, two dogs here.)

Luckily after i took 10min to explain what I'm doing, where does my routes go, why i'm here, I'll pack out all my trash, no fire, no pick plants, dig a hole for poop, etc. He let me go in, 1000% thank you to him!

Km19 : bridge for crossing Río Diguillín.

Km19.45 : El Trumao, Camping Relbún. Ranger station and Conaf campground, didn't see anyone when i passed here.

Km19.7 : closed gate, you can open it on left side. Old, steep and rocky dirt road behind this gate, look like no cars on it for some years. (Some place landslide, cars impossible to pass by)

Km21.3 : Rio Relbún, good water flowing nice, rock hopping for dry feet.

Km22.8 : view point of valley, also some flat spots with trees can fit 2-4 tents.

Km23.7 : pass, Paso Atacalco, descent to a beautiful valley.

Km25.3-km26.2 : some tiny streams flowing with good water, but maybe dry up soon.

Km28.4 : Valle Hermoso, Ranger station and Conaf campground, didn't see anyone when i passed here. Río Blanquillo flowing at here too.

Some more tiny streams flowing across the road at south, but i think they will all dry up soon.

Km35.6 : a side trail to see a waterfall, I think it is just soso.

Then connect with {08-C}, then back to RR.

{08-C} km2.4 : a very beautiful demon rock hill on your left side, worth take a look!

RR Ford[71.3/1089] : crossing of Río Polcura, it's a wide river crossing about 80m, luckily it is already made for vehicles crossing so have a rock bar underwater, easy to cross. Mostly just half of calf, in the middle about 10m, up to knee and flowing very fast.

Camp[72.9/1104] : it's a really nice camping spot with tree shade and beside a river.

Camp[78.6/1203] : this spot is not beside RR. When you finish valley trail walk, if you don't join dirt road and keep going walk in the valley then you'll arrive here.

Water[79.1/1214] : log bridge crossing.

Trailhead[80.5/1248] : not easy to notice the trailhead, although it have a fallen board on the ground.

North of the pass is overgrown, south of the pass lot of fallen trees block the trail.

Didn't see any camping spots until almost to valley.

Water[81.8/1475] : when you get close, be careful dont walk too fast. Just before the stream dont follow the trail to left side and go down, it is already landslide and you'll fall off 2m vertically.

Pass[84.2/1744] : tons of huge dead trees and ready to fall down in next second. Don't camp here, it is dangerous.

Km85.8 : flat spot can fit 2-3 tents.

Km86: flat spots can fit 1 tent before and after a stream crossing.

Km95.2 : excellent view point of Volcán Antuco, look like some flat spots at downhill side close to the beach.

Camp[97.8/1456] : beside a tree, can fit 1-2 tents with fire ring. Last reliable water when you climbing up.

Km102 : snow start here, but all you can go around.

Camp without water[102.3/2063] : no camping spot as now, wet, muddy and lot of stream are flowing by snow melt, a fire ring is in the stream too!

I camped at km103.45, just before the pass, there is some brushes provide wind protection from west. Can fit 1-2 small tents.

Km104.1 : a large flat area, but no wind protection.

X[105.4/1934] : no more trail junction at "X", you need to go down a little, then CC to connect the trail at south.

Camp[106.6/1938] : wet, grassy and steep spot. A large flat area after you climb up the stream at km106.95, it is in a valley and no wind protection.

Km109.45 : a small pass, excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda!

Snow start at km109.9, unfortunately when i almost climbed up to ridge, i found that km111.8 to km113.5(at least) , all covered by snow on a very steep slope. It is not a good idea to go through this high risk area, also Cerro El Toro is a very sharp rocky peak, not possible walk on the ridge to go around the slope, so i turn back to "X"[105.4/1934], and join {08-06} continues to south.

{08-06} is a nice trail to go down, and look like somone have maintained it, nearly no fallen trees and just very little overgrown, easy to follow and walk.

{08-06} km4.5 : junction of {08-06} and {08-06A}, look like {08-06} in a better condition, also {08-06} from here to km5.6, it is an old dirt road and no more using.

Km5.6 : junction to join a good dirt road. Camping spot just before the junction, and there are also lot of camping possibilities along the good dirt road.

Gate[8.6/808] : locked, climb over it.

Km9.3 : another gate, you can open it on left side, if you want to camping, better before this gate.

Km22.4 : i join {08-06B} for shorter distance to main road for hitching to Antuco.

* '''2023-Dec-19 to 2023-Dec-20/ 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / Antuco RR and Option 6/ Jens'''

Tried to go up the main route. First pass was steep and full of snow. Decided to turn around and try Option 6.

As option 6 is on private land owned by the Hydroelectrico, a guard picked me up and told me to register with the Carabineros in Antuco. Frustrated I decided to skip section 8 in favour of section 7.

* '''2023-Dec-21 to 2023-Dec-24/ 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / San Fabian - Las Trancas / Ella'''

TLDR: River fords are still heinous, especially Ñuble. Bring micro spikes if crossing Paso Prigallo to go towards Las Termas de Chillan.

Day 1: Hitched a ride part of the way from San Fabian, and then caught a bus (was a Thursday around 1 pm) until Punilla. Camped at a small, windy site with good river access and near the Punilla swimming hole, which is definitely worth a visit. Some friendly caballeros came around 8 pm to camp as well.
Day 2: Walked towards Los Sauces, splitting off to the right where the road/trail led. Could not cross river here because of construction. Went back to the main road and walked North to where there was a (padlocked) cable car and did a challenging ford - current was somewhat strong and water went to my navel (I’m 5’8”/172 cm). In retrospect, would have been better to just walk/bus all the way into Los Sauces and make a safer crossing there. Cabineros in El Roble were nicer to me that the ones in San Fabian. Camped just before Camp {08} [21.6/873] since it now seems to be on private property.
Day 3: Had to trespass for about a mile before reaching the Ñuble river but didn’t run into anyone. Ñuble was really difficult. I got there just before 8 am. Crossing the river at designated spot was not possible. I went upstream, around the bend, and about a hundred meters further to where the river widens and gets a bit shallower. I crossed with water about up to my navel (I’m 5’8”/172 cm) but a little past midway the current took me off my feet and I went for a brief swim before grabbing a rock and recovering on the other side. After getting to the other side, I had to scramble/bushwhack up a near-vertical slope to where there appears to be sort of a terrace in the landscape. I found the best spot was behind where the bank of the river flattened out a bit. Thankfully once getting to the top, you’re blessed with a faint trail leading back to the main route. This approach was not very fun at all - it is probably best to wait another week or two before attempting the river.
After that, the trail gets harder to follow, especially after entering the larger valley. As per others advice, I tried crossing the river in the valley to the right side, but also ran into impassable shrubbery/broken trees there so I ended up crossing back and forth as needed. The first pass didn’t have any snow. There is a difficult ford after the marker for Trailhead {08} [34.6/1873]. Camped at Camp {08} [36.2/1953] which was lovely.
Day 4: Headed towards Las Termas de Chillan. Both passes were very snowy. The second pass, only necessary if going off main trail towards Las Termas, had steep sections that called for micro spikes. I was lucky that there were some people who had just come through and kicked steps in, making this part easier. Hitched a ride to Las Trancas where there are multiple well stocked mini markets and nice hostal options. Not sure if I will continue on GPT 08 given the snow and river conditions so far.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-02 to 2023-Apr-06/ 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / El Roble - Los Peucos - Recinto / RR + OH03 / Hannes & Luisa'''

Hitchhiked from San Fabian to way after El Roble, rather easy on weekends as it seems many locals around. Ñuble crossing with strong current and water above knees (me 185cm), but still ok compared to other months I think. Went up the mountain and into this valley with beautiful oak-trees. Getting out of this forest we crossed the river to the orographic left side as suggested by others...initially a good choice, all the same we had to switch like 2 to 3 times river bank to avoid some nasty Bush bashing...We reccomend to just open your eyes and see which side works best for you after the initial crossing at approximately -36.856679 -71.275261. After the last camp in the valley path clearly visible and steep ascent to the pass. After the pass we got into this amazing volcanic landscape east of Volcan Chillàn. After the second pass we descended to Aguas Calientes, hot thermal pools at the end of a valley surrounded by some green yellow pasture and loads of cows. Good spot to camp...Then we went to Termas Los Peucos, took us 3.5 days till there. Just for the pools they take 10k, pools and camp was 14k. As one of us felt little sick we decided to hitchhike out over OH03. Do not consider this an emergency exit as it is rather difficult to hh out there, very few cars on the road as access is limited due to a private tunnel and only Carabineros and some oil- and gas-pipeline companies are around there with their cars it seems. All the same we were lucky and got out to Recinto (further down in the valley of Termas de Chillán, near Las Trancas...) In this valley or if you get out at Termas de Chillán we highly recommend Cabañas Ayunkoyam owned by Vincente Ruiz in Recinto, +56999991737, call him before. For this rather expensive valley quite a good option. Vincente is a local mountain guide who seems to know every mountain in his country and is a nice guy to talk to.

* '''2023-Apr-02 to 2023-Apr-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / El Roble - Volcán Chillán - Termas de Chillán / Noémie'''
Very short section because I got a lift from San Fabián until after El Roble (21.0), a bit before the end of the minor road. Carabineros checked ID and asked for sufficient equipment. Ñuble crossing was not that hard but I had water until my waist, even at the end of the season (I am 1m60 though...). Camped the first night at Camp {08} [29.5/1441], on the left bank of the river, where there was a bit of space. The next morning, it was a bit hard to go up the valley with all the dead trees and no path visible. Tried to follow fellow GPT hikers advices, but ended up crossing the river multiple times to find a walkable path without too many bushes, until Camp {08} [31.3/1629]. After this tricky part, both paths are beautiful and quite easy. The thermal river is amazing. There was plenty of space with beautiful hot water pools but also cold water at Camp {08} [40.4/2150]. The last day, I took OH {08-02} and OH {08-02A} to go up Volcán Chillán and then exit at Termas de Chillán. Beautiful ascent with no specific difficulty except the steep last 300 meters. The place is full of condors flying really close, super impressive.
There are no housing options and no buses during the week leaving from Termas de Chillán. You can walk/hitchhike until -36.910163, -71.417798 where buses leave regularly everyday for Chillán. Found many cabañas options in Trancas de Chillán a bit further down. Overall, very beautiful and diverse section (forests, rivers, sand deserts, volcanos) with amazing hot springs!

* '''2023-Mar-13 to 2023-Mar-18 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Abanico — Thermas de Chillán / Iris, Alexis '''

Starting from Los Angeles, we took a bus (at 12:30) towards Abanico and then two rides until the start of OH-MR-V {08-K} [0.0+0.1]. Then, there is a gate (after the Bridge, Gate {08} [126.7/1339] point) locked with a padlock but easy to climb. The CC section (RH-CC-A {08} [26.4/122.0+1.9]) is actually following the MR so we thought better stay on the road. When we reached Camp {08} [120.2/1520], it was completely dry so we continued a bit and found a nice spot in the forest (close to -37.32983, -71.39823).

On Day 2, we continued on the trail, simply taking the shortcut OH-TL-V {08-I} [0.0+0.2]. Then, we chose to take option 08-H to stay high, it was really beautiful. We stayed on the rim until a hard part and then we diverged on the trail that was present a bit below us. As other as noted, on RH-CC-A {08} [18.1/113.7+2.0] you follow a trail or a set of footprints. When the trail and the trace diverge, follow the trail, it is usually the best option. And don't miss Trailhead {08} [113.7/2184], we tried to go around it but regretted it. Then, the trail until Laguna El Robles (Camp {08} [98.2/1456]) is nice but the descent is steep. We believe the path has been cleared recently because lot of fresh fallen branches on the ground. On the lake, we camped on the east side but it was very windy. The other side looked more protected.

On Day 3, we followed the RR until Camp {08} [73.3/1104]. It was a rather uneventful day except we met a lot of arrieros in the morning that went for a wild bull hunt. The camp is nice and felt like a campground.

On Day 4, we hiked for just a few kilometers to reach the Thermas Peucos. It was a very worthy stop, an oasis in the middle of the hike : 10k PP for the camping and hot springs (stoned pools). We even bought a lunch from the minishop which has quite a nice selection. Like others, we used the option 08-C to avoid the pointless climb in the RR.

On Day 5, we did a rather long walk until Camp {08} [40.4/2150] to enjoy the natural pool. The trail is a bit overgrown after the thermas but nothing bad. The day was full of going up : 2500 on the tracks but the GPS said only 2100 at the end of the day. The hot springs are amazing, truly the best we encountered. And we were alone there.

On Day 6, we met a horserider when leaving the camp a bit angry because he did not sleep. He camped near a group that partied the whole night (we believe it was close to Ford {08-02} [1.6/2097]). Then, option 08-02 and variant A to ascend the volcan. It starts with a nice trail and ends up with sand that is really hard to climb. Nothing difficult nor dangerous but extremely tiresome. It took us 3h to go up but we enjoyed our lunch at the top! Then the descent is really fast, thanks to this sand (about 1h). The rest of the trail until Thermas de Chillán is a bit overrun, we met numerous hikers (but it was a Saturday). There, we hitched a ride until Recinto and took the 7:00PM bus to Chillán for a ressuply.

Overall our impressions on this section are a bit mixed. We enjoyed the numerous hot baths and the volcan summit but we were less amazed by the landscapes compared to the previous sections (of note as we did go up quite a lot, we probably were a bit too exhausted to truly enjoy it completely!) . Perhaps it is more rewarding when going SOBO?

* '''2023-Feb-02 to 2023-Feb-08 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + emergency exit / Martial '''

Puente Inglés - Los Peucos - Antuco
Super pleasant trekk in various landscapes and sweet hot springs. Met Ondrej at the start and shared the road walking before he eventually escapes in the first climb ! Met again finally at the hot river for a deserved rest after big climbing day. Next the descent to los Peucos is rather long with overgrown detour of the swamp at the end. That’s where my phone died for no reason. May it RIP with all my pictures :’( Still if there’s a good soul out there with a machete and long trousers feel free to save this beautiful trail ! Then los Peucos was a paradise oasis for a 14000$ 24h rest day. Not so expensive to me considering the quality of the hotspring service and resupply in the middle of nowhere ! « El Toro » hotspring is a once in lifetime experience for sunrise and had the all domain for myself 😌 Do not hesitate to stop there and meet Ricardo who doesn’t see many souls otherwise.
4th night spent 3km down near los Peucos in a super recommanded magical waterfall bassins with perfect « nuit à la belle étoile » on the hot rock.
After km 80 the forest is kind of colonised with annoying flyes and thermites wich makes it not an enjoyable place. Also recommend taking plenty of water from laguna el roble cause dry climb and ridge walking ahead (there’s still a little stream pond under a tree a few km after the pass if you look well). Arrived there in late afternoon with no place to camp and saw emergency exit on the right which triggered green light in my brain (as gear failures were acumalating and motivation low). Felt good after a few tears but the long road walking in the hydraucentral gave me some regrets until i eventually arrived in Antuco after hotish hitchhiking.

* '''2023-Jan-28 to 2023-Feb-04 / 7.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcán chillàn & volcán Antuco / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day 1
Got off the bus here (-36.67295, -71.29201) instead of Los Sauces for an easy ford. The bus driver knew of this place. The ford was here -36.67738, -71.28739, knee-high. We crossed around 3pm. The road section until the carabinieros was surprisingly popular on a weekend: we got a 3km hitch, but if we started earlier, I am sure we could have hitched a lot more. The valley is nice to walk in though.
The carabinieros basically just wanted to know if we had a proper GPS and map. We could not understand if they were telling us "not" to go close to Volcán Chillán or just "warning" us. I checked online the day before and it said the volcano is in green, but the cabineros said it was yellow.
Made camp at the 17km waypoint because it was a good spot. Lots of unmarked water waypoints on the road such as -36.69615, -71.27770 and -36.72718, -71.26420.
Day 2.
Crossed Nuble with no problems around 9am. The water was not strong but not totally calm and was under our crotches: I am 170cm and Tomáš is ~173cm. Hats off to the others that crossed when water levels were much higher! Remember to turn right and not left after the ford.
The path was better than expected, but still can be easily lost until the first pass at 33.2km. Thanks to the tip from Will, we took the path on the other side of the river once out of the trees to avoid the blow down, somewhere around or close to camp 29.5. Hot pass.
We made camp at the hotsprings ([40.3/2173]) after the second pass, their beauty and heat made up for the long day. There are a couple of perfect spots near the hotsprings with some cold water for drinking, -36.90156, -71.35089. Spent two nights here. The hot springs are regular creeks, most of which in the valley are hot. Saw some locals camping in other spots, seems like a popular place.
Day 3.
Volcán Chillàn. Easy climb following the standard route but the last 600m was slow sandish-like material which made for a very quick descent. Instead of going back the way we came, we followed an unmarked/unmapped "road" on the south side of Volcán Chillán that lead to switchbacks down to the hotsprings that we saw earlier that morning. Basically if coming from volcano, follow the road east from here -36.89199, -71.38543 and aim for the switchbacks to the hotsprings camp here -36.90336, -71.36145 [as of 2024 included in our suggestions in the released Track files]. There is some dirty water on the way but very interesting and scenic. I am slightly worried about posting this because it is likely not meant to be walked, also not sure it actually saves time compared to the normal trail but it allows for a nice roundtrip. One can get Internet on the way to the volcano when the ski resorts are visible. Camped again at the hotsprings.
Day4
Nothing to add for this day, trail was nice and under trees a lot of the way, all fords easy or jumpable. Met two French who were doing the GPT northbound. Camped near the puesto 61.7 before the hotsprings, path was always there, just a little overgrown.
Day5
Trail to hotsprings was not that bad, just overgrown bamboo but otherwise nice. The hotsprings is not actually CONAF but a concession. Prices were as described 14mil for camping and 7mil just for hotsprings. If you want to buy food from them, I recommend going at the beginning of the month as that is when they restock, for us there was still lots of food left but nothing fresh or good, very expensive.
On the road we used option C to avoid the hill as others suggested (seems like the main road now) and as for variant D, we did not see anything, so we back-tracked a bit and took a different unmarked trail here that was successful -37.06894, -71.39599 and forded river here -37.06857, -71.39158 to meet the RR [now in the suggestions too].
The trailhead at 81.0 is hard to see, be ready.
That trail from 81.0 to the pass was more overgrown in my mind than the rest of the days but still not terrible. Camped on the other side 88.9 (actually a bit further down were nicer camp-spots with lovely short grass).
Day6
Somehow at camp 88.9 we woke up to frost over everything. Have no idea what kind of phenomenon this is because I don't think it froze (forecast was for 16 in the night) but even the little moisture in my breakfast bowl froze shortly after eating it...
Quick trail to Laguna el Roble except the trail is easy to loose just before the Laguna in the grassy section, keep climbing left towards an unmarked puesto here -37.20868, -71.33023.
There should technically be a better water source than the lake itself at camp 98.8, but I just took water from the lake:S. The next pass towards the ridge was hot but easy. Good trail until you hit the X at 105.9. Then the path is harder to follow. The camp at 107.1 seems silly and would be better higher above the listed water source. We ended up going cross country all the way from a pass like structure here -37.25066, -71.38499 to Laguna Hermosa because there was a trail on the other side (a bit lower than official RR so it made sense to follow it elevation-wise) that eventually faded away.
Laguna Hermosa was worth it as others have stated but unfortunately very heavy winds crept in that night. It was way less windy on the East side of the lagoon, which we only noticed in the morning.
Day7
Very heavy winds. We made a small short cut to the RR from the Laguna by heading west sooner [included in our suggestions]. We considered turning around on the ridge as the winds were likely around 80km/hr at one point near the pylons, but luckily since the route is not actually on the ridge but under it, the rest of the way was okay, still windy but not pushing us over. The rest of the ridge was no problem for us, slower of course since there is sidehilling and edging but nothing scary or exposed. There was no snow though.
El Puesto at 121 had two dogs but we did not see anyone. We camped at Laguna Laja (not nice) to climb Antuco the next day. To no surprise the restaurant and cafe at the ski resort are closed. Other than the water in the lake, there are no good water sources past the last water source before El Puesto if heading in this direction. There is Entel 3G coverage here.
Day8
Started early to beat the heat for Antuco. I turned back after the top of the ski lift because of a stomach bug (probably food but still nicer to vomit in the shade...) but Tomáš went on to finish the climb. The climb was not worth it. The volcano is not black sand but rather loose rock (boulders to pebbles) which made especially going down annoying. A rock fell on my waling stick and partially destroyed it. After the ski lift there is virtually no trail. Plus the fact there was only a small crater on top and the weather was very hot and windy in the early morning. I think we were there during a small heat wave, supposedly the day before was 38°C in Antuco proper. After the climb we hitched to the campsite Lagunillas (10mil/person) in hopes of going back to Los Angeles but after analyzing the smoke situation of the forest fires we stayed here and used it as a base for preparing for GPT09-10.

It took us 168 hours but without climbing the volcanoes the trail could have been walked in five full walking days. End of January means there were virtually no horseflies.
Nice trip but due to foot issues, things breaking down and a stomach bug at the end, it was a bit of a suffer-fest for Natalie (Tomáš's new shoes are unfortunately painful too). However, the hotsprings, Volcán Chillán, Laguna Hermosa and the trees (especially the ones with usnea) made it worth while!

* '''2023-Feb-02 to 2023-Feb-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 08-C / Ondrej '''

Puente Inglés - Camping Las Lagunillas
Overall an extremely beautiful route, my favourite in GPT06-08. Compared to GPT06 and 07, this section felt most diverse but also most challenging to navigate. I accidentaly got off track much more often. Still, the route is visible most of the time except the last day after Laguna Hermosa. Even there, sticking to the gpx files makes the section easily passable. One just need to pay a higher attention to where their steps are placed. The fauna is quite rich too - I had a chance to see a tarrantula (the minor road on day 1), crayfish in the rivers, and a snake which I believe was Tachymenis chilensis (on the shores of Laguna El Roble). I believe this section is much more demanding in Dec or early Jan when snow is still present on the slopes. Horseflies were not a problem in my case. I encountered some between km 75 and 85 but that was far from frustrating. I recommend gaiters due to dusty roads in some sections. From thermas Chillan I haven’t met a soul until the end of the section.

Details:
On the first day, it is easy walking on a minor road that winds through a forest so you can enjoy shade most of the walk! No complications, just need to climb some gates. I enjoyed a company of a fellow GPT hiker Martial, who shared some useful trout fishing tips and gear with me. We camped at the Nuble crossing.

Second day, Nuble crossing was no problem. Knee-deep at the recommended ford. Then I got lost in the forest numerous time. Checking the gpx frequently definitely helped. I followed the advice of others to cross the river and find a path om the right upstream side. That worked really well, didn’t have to cross any fallen trees! I camped at the hot springs - it is actually a whole thermal river. Amazing, amazing place. Loved to lay in it and watch the stars. Quite a few other people were there (some arrieros and a Chilean family) but there really was enough space for everyone.

The third and fourth day were rather uneventful for me. Very beautiful views along the trail, which was mostly through forests and relatively simple to follow all the way to 2km before Los Peucos. Even there the trail was visible, it was just overgrown. I worried about this part too much based on the previous reports. The path actually felt quite okay in my case. Unfortunately, no soul at Los Peucos. I saw a parked car and a horse, but no human in the area. So I decided to walk 3km more and camp at the next river ford at km 66.4. I also took option C as recommeded by other hikers below, it was perfect!

The 5th day was easy up to the laguna El Roble. Then the climb is quite demanding. Most importantly, there is hardly any water between Laguna El Roble and km106.1. I found a little stream at km102.8 but I wouldn’t rely on it. My strategy was to drink about 1 liter at the laguna El Roble (I filtered the water there as the laguna didn’t seem that clear) and then I took 1.5l with me. It lasted me all the way to Laguna Hermosa. Maybe next time I would take only 1 liter. However, I felt safe to have the reserves. Once you get to the pass, the views are beautiful, as is Laguna Hermosa where I camped for the last night.

On the 6th day, I started from Laguna Hermosa at 8am and reached the main car road around 3pm. The trail after Hermosa disappears and requires a lot of attention to your GPS to navigate. The scree traverses are entirely manageable. I had to think twice before placing my feet though. The trail becomes visible and much easier at km115 when the valley trail connects. No one was at the puesto at km121.1, just three dogs. Trekking poles were enough to fend them off. There is indeed a new metal gate with a lock at approx km 126. No guards are positioned there. I climbed the gate without issues. I then hiked to Camping Lagunillas. There is a very kind owner and his son. Really good people to chat with. After listening to my story they also let me a cabana for a price of camping (10,000 CLP) for the night. The owner’s son is keen to learn more about the GPT and to potentially hike part of the route too. The camping has a small almacen there with some lentils and rice to buy (however, the selection is not enough to resupply). They also sell beer, cookies and can make you a soft dinner and breakfast (empanadas, lentils, waffles, coffee, sandwiches). I hitchhiked to Abanico the next day. It seems there are many more buses from Abanico to Antuco/Los Angeles than just two these days. The bus schedules could be looked up on the Internet. I caught one at 9:30am.

*2023-Jan-16 Frank RR SOBO 5 days

Crossed the river before Los Sauces where a dirt road goes right, crossing was only ankle deep. The cable car at Los Sauces is locked & there is often no one there. River is a lot deeper by the cable car (at least waist deep)

At Los Robles the carabineros were not very friendly, which was unusual, & were not too happy about me hiking solo, but after I told them I'd walked there from Santiago they allowed me to proceed. They had no info. about the activity level of Chillan. The 'shop' in Los Robles only had 2L bottles of soft drink & eggs. Rio Nuble was thigh deep late in the evening but you need to pick your spot: a few metres downstream from the RR crossing, before some boulders in the water. Camped a little after the crossing. Before Rio Nuble there is a no entry sign & locked gate but you can climb over it easily & there was no one there. Campsite marked on track file before the crossing was fenced off with no entry sign.

Coming down from the pass late on day 2 there is a cold water spring just before the hot waterfall. Filled up at the spring as the water in the valley is thermal, not sure if it's good to drink. Camped in the valley by the hot stream.

At the CONAF hot springs it was 14,000 CLP to camp but they allowed me to use the hot bath for free. They have a shop but most items are too bulky for one person. I continued for about 10KM & camped in a 3 sided hut 100M to the right off the road before a wide but easy ford. The hut has a dirt floor so you can pitch a tent inside. After Laguna Roble you climb to a pass & there is a spring a little after the pass. I camped just before the spring (room for one small tent, had to clear away some rocks but it was OK) The traverse after the aerials was a bit sketchy but soon improved & I picked up a tiny trail through the scree. Walked to the CONAF entrance gate on the road & hitched out from there. There is a lot of traffic on the weekend.

* '''2023-Jan-13 to 2023-Jan-18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Start in Termas the Chillan opt. 2 than RR from 40km to 105.9 and finished using opt. 6. / Maks&Gabi '''

Trail is visible almost all the time. All the fords are easily passable. We had met arrieros 3 times, they were nice and helpful. One of them asked about why we are hiking, as there is a lot of people going this way, but he seemed to be okay with it.
There is a lot of really horseflies especially between 83 and 93 km.
There were also quite a lot of cows on trail, that were not so happy to see us, but we just walked around them (with some bigger distance). Be careful as the bulls seem to be very protective over the small ones.

Option 06A is probably overgrown - we spent about 15 min trying to find the trail but we gave up after all ( it was about 300m after crossroad ).
Gate on 8.6km of option 6 was locked with the padlock, but noone was there so we just walked over the fence.

All other gates on all trail were easily passable. One of the arrieros just noted that we should close them after crossing.
From the hydro powerplant till the end of the option 06B there were a lot of people working on a road but none of them seemed to have a problem with us being there.
We hitch hiked to Antuco.
It was our first try on the GPT (recommended by a local mountain guide from Termas de Chillan) and it was definitely worth it!

* '''2023-Jan-03 to 2023-Jan-08 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Probably my favorite section so far! A nice mix of remote alpine stretches, forests, and fields. However the horseflies made it hard to appreciate at times, they were pretty much constant during the later section around Laguna Laha.

I hitched from San Fabián around noon and did most of the road walk the first day. The campsite at 21.6 is fenced off. I stayed at 20.3 which didn't have great water access, just a muddy spring. Scrambling down to the river wasn't feasible but I found a bit of clean flow partway down.
The Nuble crossing wasn't so bad for me, it was just below my waist (5'11/181cm). Still the hardest one so far. I found the trail afterwords pretty hard to follow, with lots of side paths eventually leading to thorny bushwhacking. It finally convinced me to pull the route up on my watch for the first time, definitely worth it here.
A ways after the river crossing you'll come out of the woods into an open river valley. I recommend crossing the stream there and finding the path on the other side, instead of struggling through the blowdown/landslide debris along the gpx track.
The trail was fairly slow from the Nuble crossing to los Peucos. After that it's super fast except for a few stretches in the mountains above the Laguna Laha.
The natural hot springs just below the pass near the Volcan Chillan were very nice, but full of little flies. They didn't seem to bite.
The camping at los peucos was very expensive, but they had a bit of food for sale (fruit!!). Comfy grass, wifi, well maintained bathrooms. The hot springs there were too hot for me, slightly painful.
I missed option C and definitely regretted it. The road up was super rocky, and hot with no shade.
The stretch above Laguna Laha was the driest I've passed so far. Thankfully there were a few snow fed streams/ponds left, but I should have carried more water to be safe. Laguna Hermosa was true to its name, a nice place to camp my last night.
The main road at the end was pretty busy, you could hitch right away and skip the entire last 13ish km. But the extra little stretch of trail at the end was definitely worth it to me.
It took me a while to get a ride to Antuco even though the road was busy. Most people were just going a bit further along. It's not the nicest town but there's decent selection for resupply. I got a room for 15k/night at a cabana/hostal place on Sgto. Aldea street. For some reason I didn't have cell service there, with Movistar.

* '''2023-Jan-01 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option C / Martin & Helena'''

We took bus from San Fabian (corner on the other side of the gas station) in the afternoon, and camped after ford of Los Sauces river (water only to the ankles). A lot of annoying tabanos, but plenty of space to camp. Quite a lot of locals go there as well. The next day we continued to the ford or Rio Nuble that turned out to be the worst so far for us. Doing it in the afternoon was not the best idea - the current was strong and even when it was just waist-high, we were not able to pass through the fastest part where the path takes you. We figured out to go more upstream, but just like 30m maybe? to a point where the water was really deep but completely calm. There is a rock wall on the other side. The water reached our chest at that part and our hands holding poles were under the water, making it hard to gain stability. We decided to take our chances and try to cross, using rocks covered with some grass to gain traction. There were times when we were floating in the water with close to 0 stability but we eventually made it. Best to be there early to have the best possible conditions. Until the end of the day we managed to get up through the forrest. Before you get out of the forrest you are crossing a stream that is going down between the rocks, but if you take a minute or two before it path that goes lower than trail, you will find a nice spot by the water with some wooden bench and nice covered place to camp. We prefered to be out of the forrest so we continued, but found only a field of fallen trees caused by landslide. It was possible to find a place to camp closer to the river. It is best to continue on the other side, which we did the next day. You will soon connect to the trail again, before going up.

The way up from the valley is quite steep. From the pass you get a nice view of the Chillan volcano. Going further down to the lava field, we followed advices of others and get up to the top of lava field right away and continued walking on it. After the pass you will find a valley with hot springs which are simply amazing. Good to plan camping there so you can enjoy it fully. From the valley the trail is clear, until a short section before the official camp (1-2 kms before it), where it’s more of a bush-bashing. This part starts near a puesto where we came across herd of young bulls that seemed to be more curious that we would like and we had to go around them, a little off the trail. We struggled a little to find our way into the camp, which was not so clear from our gps (eventhough the path is clear all the way to the river) - the camp is secured by wire fences that we wanted to avoid, but at the end we crawled under them to get to the camp, aprox. according to our gps. If you follow the river downstream you might get to the official gate / entrance, not sure. Like other mentioned the price is quite high, and so are things in the little shop - most of it are classic camping things that last long like pasta, rice, canned fruits, a lot of cookies… but we were grateful for it anyway. The hot springs there are also amazing, man-made stone pools, with the view of the stars in the night it is perfect and worth the price. There are maybe 10 dedicated places to camp with wooden desk and bench, covered by roof (good when it’s raining). More space is close to the showers and the common, shared house with kitchen, fireplace and again desks with benches. We met there some workers from a gas company, fixing pipes close to the laguna, who were sleeping in the camp. The guy watching over the camp (from CONAF) was also nice and helpful - if you need anything, this is the right person to ask.

On the next day, we continued on the minor road, where we took the C option, like others. Following the RR we found the 08-E option (which follows the MR) to be a better choice since the RR is a little overgrown in the beginning and with thistle-vegetation. Easy pass in the forest, and nice places to camp in the valley. We were lucky to find their cows again (luckily on the other side of the river), but bulls woke us up in the morning - this must have been the fastest packing in the history. We enjoyed more fun with the cows and bulls later in the valley, that were blocking our way and refusing to go away - that made us to take another short detour around them.

A lot has been already written about the last part of this section that takes you up to the plateau. The climb is quite steep and long so don’t forget to take water from the last laguna - that is the last option. The next stream we found was about 2 kms from the point where you reach the ridge. We camped before Laguna Hermosa with nice view of the volcano. There was some melting snow above the laguna and we found 4G signal there (where the pole is). We found the descent down to be quite ok, there are small slippery rocks so it’s necessary to be careful, but nothing too bad. The descent gets very dusty later (when it’s dry) and is still steep in the forrest with a lot of water from the snow. We got to the main road in the afternoon and were lucky to catch a ride all the way to Antuco. We booked the only available place we found on booking called Puelche de Antuco, a really nice cabin. The town is nice with a lot of restaurants and shops.

* '''2022-Dec-28 to 2023-Jan-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Los Sauces - Antuco / Anna & Christopher '''

We took the bus at 6 pm from San Fabián to Los Sauces and camped next to the river.

The path until the river crossing of Rio Ñuble is basically a dirtroad, so we got there pretty fast. Only the horseflies were very annoying. We recommend bringing insect repellent.
Christopher is 1.88m and the water went up to his navel at the main route crossing. Anna with 1.63m was not able to cross the river there.
After some tries we found a possibility a couple of hundred meters upstream, where the water just went up to Anns knees. The tough part was to get up to the path on the other side. After some bush bashing, you have to get up a 3 to 4 meter high, almost vertical slope. We found a tree, whose roots we used to climb up, which was not super easy. Once you are up there, there is a good path that leads to the main route.

The next day was nice until the valley around km 25 (where the river is not correctly positioned in the gaia app). There are tons of fallen trees and it was really hard to get through and there was mostly no visible path. It's probably best to stick to the upstream right side of the river.
Afterwards the path gets really nice. Especially in the evening sun, it was very beautiful to cross the volcanic landscape. We camped in the valley at km 40 at the hot springs.

The third day has a good path at the beginning. Just the last 3 km it gets more difficult, especially approx. 2 km before Los Peucos, where it's mostly bush bashing.
The camping at Los Peucos is nice, as well as the hot springs, but we had to pay 14k CLP p.p. to camp there and in the evening there are tons of mosquitos. We would have camped a bit further downstream, if we had known that to be honest.

The next day we took option C, like Veronica suggested, to avoid an unnecessary climb. Then we made an unnecessary climb following the road and not the main path, because we couldn't find the entry to the path right away and feared more bush bashing. But the path looked great from above.
The rest of the route until shortly after Laguna Hermosa was really good. There is not much snow left and therefore there are not a great many places to fill up water.
After Laguna Hermosa the path gets very hard to cross, due to lots of stones and gravel without a visible path.
But it's very beautiful up there and finally not hot anymore.
The descend has a easy to find path but is pretty slippery. Once you pass that the rest is pretty easy until the road, from where we hitchhiked to Antuco. We stayed at Camping Rucue for 15k CLP the camping lot. You pay for the lot not per person.

* '''2022-Dec-14 to 2022-Dec-19 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + GPT08-02 / Véronica '''

Route: Los Sauces - Río Ñuble crossing - backtrack to Los Sauces - hitch to Termas se Chillán (GPT08 option 2) - Los Peucos - Laguna Laja - Laguna Hermosa - CONAF near Abanico

San Fabian is a great place, loved swimming in the Ñuble River when it got hot. The owner of Cabañas San Fabian is super kind. I hitched back to the trail because I didn't want to wait all day for the bus that leaves at 6pm.

Registered with the carabineros at El Roble, but I could not ford Río Ñuble at the RR crossing. Current was very strong, and has I been able to stand up in it, the water would have easily reached my chest (I'm165 cm). I tried several times to ford the river at three different places, several km apart from each other, with no success. I would advance in the stream until I felt I couldn't take another step without being swept, and couldn't get halfway across. I suppose I should have expected this - it's a very high snow year and mid-December. I even tried calling out for help at the puesto on the west side of the river near the "no trespassing" gates, but no one was there. The long walk back to Los Sauces felt very defeating. Also, the "wooden bridges" described by Jo and Veronika are actually only cable crossings, and inaccessible by two barbed wire fences. Not possible to cross the river there either. Ríos Los Sauces and Las Truchas only came up mid-thigh though.

Regained the GPT at Termas de Chillán, Option 2. Basicall took almost the whole second day to hitch there. Beautiful trail, but steep. You get to ford hot creeks, which was pretty cool.

The trail is overgrown in some places, the worst spot is between the last puesto before Los Peucos and Los Peucos. Very hard walking through, wished I had a machete. Only lasts a km or two thankfully. All three puestos before Los Peucos looked abandoned.

Didn't meet anyone at Los Peucos since I got there fairly early in the morning, but the hot springs there are amazing. Really hot, clear water, a little stone pool in a garden. Loved spending time there.

Taking GPT08-C avoids a pointless climb and descent on the regular route, and has a nice path the whole way.

Trail gets more difficult once you start climbing up to the ridge after Laguna El Roble. The views are incredible though, absolutely spectacular. Lots of water sources up on the ridge due to many lingering snow patches. Most of them are not a problem. After the junction with GPT08-06, the trail kind of disappears. Keep an eye on the GPS as you climb and descend steeply on the slopes. It reappears again after the following camp and water waypoints.

Laguna Hermosa still has a couple snow patches on its shores, cold place to camp, but beautiful. After Laguna Hermosa is where it gets really challenging. There is no trail afterwards that I could find, basically cross country the whole way to the TR at 116.8 km. As you approach the "trailhead" waypoint, there is LOTS of scree traverses, and steep snow patches which require microspikes or extreme clambering to get around. Treacherous in some places. I fell a couple times. The ground is very loose and unstable. Things get better actually once you reach the official cross country section at Laguna Lágrima. Still some steep bits, but the ground is more consolidated, and there's more bedrock to help with traction. I reccomend taking the optional route CC-08-H. There's a faint trail to follow and it avoids clambering up on the ridge.

Very glad to see a clear track again at 116.8. But still some problematic snow fields in this stretch above Laguna Toro, where it was too steep even with microspikes, and I had to do some very careful/serious climbing around. Not fun. Fell again here. Once you reach the long descent into Valle de los Carpinteros it gets much better. Still some snow in the woods over the creek. Right now you can walk on top of it like an ice bridge. There clearly was a LOT of snow here this past winter, it lingers until 1750 m or so in the south-facing valley.

The puesto at 121.1 looks abandonned too. Lots of downed trees in the area. There was no one, and no metal gate (or any gate) whatsoever before reaching the road in the National Park.

The 4 days from Volcán Chillán to the end of the section, I saw no other human. I found this section also to be harder than GPT06, especially the last day. The snow complicates things. If you wish to avoid dangerous clambering and sketchy snow and scree traverses, take Option 06. The trail is good before then.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan-28 to 2022-Feb-06 / 10 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo'''

Los Sauces -> banks of Rio Ñuble -> hot springs at flanks of Chillan (-> escape to Concepción via Termas de Chillan to buy new shoes -> hot springs at flanks of Chillan) -> Los Peucos -> camp before Laguna Laja -> Laguna Hermosa -> camping Lagunillas (6 proper hiking days)

Nice section again. Hot springs in the first half, beautiful views of Laguna Laja, Volcán Antuco, Siella Veluda in the second half. Laguna Hermosa is true to its name, and was the first to not have horse or cow droppings on its sandy shores :D Sad to not have crossed Molly and Melissa.

- The lady at the cable car was not sure whether we could cross with our heavy backpacks, so we forded the river at Los Sauces.

- From about km 20 the sides of the road are fenced. The camp at km 21.6 is no longer available.

- There is a gate at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206' (blocking access to the trail) marked private, no entry. We saw some cars returning through a second gate (blocking access to the river) and asked if it was ok to cross the first gate. They said "For you, sure." I get the impression that Chileans rather want to keep Chileans out... This gate is not a problem NOBO.

- Fording Rio Ñuble was the deepest ford we ever did. Balls deep indeed! Quite doable though, as the water is clear.

- There may be an alternative path on the western bank, starting at the wooden bridges at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206'. Some local at the San Fabián tourist office mentioned having hiked this way.

- The trail at S 36° 49.177', W 071° 15.206' (around km 30) has eroded. After searching, we had to push through some bushes on a steep ridge to continue the trail. Maybe more obvious NOBO.

- At the start of the cross country at km 34.6 get to the top of the lava strip after fording the river. For us, this was easiest at S 36° 52.853', W 071° 18.793'.

- The water at the camp at km 37.3 was mostly dried up. Don't count on it by the end of January.

- The bus stop at Termas de Chillan is close go Hotel Nevados de Chillan. There are way more buses at Las Trancas de Chillan, 8 km down the road. Fortunately, the whole area has great 4G coverage with Entel, so you can look up the bus tables with the key words "REM bus Termas de Chillan".

- The CONAF camp Los Peucos has excellent hot springs and a mini shop. Camping costs 10.000 pp. The guards are very friendly and donated some fruit :)

- The CC section around km 95 had a clear path, but the subsequent TL section before Laguna El Roble did not.

- The trail after Laguna Hermosa was hard to find, we went quite slowly clambering on the loose scree or sand. Going down the mountain ridge at the end of the CC section was similarly difficult. Fell twice - could not find solid footing on the slope.

- The lady at the puesto at km 121.6 was friendly, asked where we came from, went to, and pointed us to the exit road. She seemed friendly, but a subtle hint to "please stay off my land" would have been lost on us in translation. The new metal gate is easy to pass through. The CONAF guard's wife at the final CONAF post mentioned that we were hiking the "sendero biologico" when we mentioned Laguna Hermosa. This trail must pass over the lady's land too?

- The ATM at Antuco is broken.

- Supermercado Santa Teresa in Antuco sells 125ml bottles of alcohol desnaturalizado 96° in the nail polish section.v

* '''2022-Jan-24 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH Cerro Las Águilas / Molly and Melissa'''

At the "gate" waypoint, we actually met two men installing a new metal gate. They told us we needed permission to pass, and that the owner would come by shortly. We talked to her, and at first she was very determined not to let us through. I don't know what convinced her - we showed her our garbage bag and shovel to show we would leave no trace, we told about the gpt and how far we had walked. She also expressed concern for her animals being disturbed, or that we would get lost. We then showed her our personal locator beacon, and she finally softened and told us we could go through if we payed 5000 pesos each and continued all the way to Laguna Hermosa, past her lands, before we made camp. She also owns the puesto marked on the route. If going northbound and wanting to avoid a potential conflict, it might be better to take the option along the ridge.

We took the bus to Abanico and hitched to the national park, not the easiest as all the cars were full. The car was stopped at the entrance, and we had to explain our route. We weren't asked to pay, probably because we weren't really going to the national park. You walk a little through it though on some nice paths, and then you reach a gravel road. Shortly after, at the "gate" waypoint, we actually met two men installing a new metal gate. They told us we needed permission to pass, and that the owner would come by shortly. We talked to her, and at first she was very determined not to let us through. I don't know what convinced her - we showed her our garbage bag and shovel to show we would leave no trace, we told about the gpt and how far we had walked. She also expressed concern for her animals being disturbed, or that we would get lost. We then showed her our personal locator beacon, and she finally softened and told us we could go through if we payed 5000 pesos each and continued all the way to Laguna Hermosa, past her lands, before we made camp. She also owns the puesto marked on the route. If going northbound and wanting to avoid a potential conflict, it might be better to take the option along the ridge.
As noted previously, after climbing to the ridge on the rr, the terrain is difficult, but the views are amazing. Not a lot of water, but we managed. Many of the campsites off route, including Laguna Hermosa, require quite a climb down.
You stay high up quite a while, which gives amazing views.

The cross country along Laguna Laja has a nice path all the way. Then you reach Patricio's puesto. He's very welcoming, and has had people stay in his puesto before. We just drank coffee with him though. His brother German lives in the valley right after Laguna el Roble, but his puesto is hidden in the trees.

Alternative route Cerro Las Águilas
We chose the Cerro las Águilas alternative, because Volcán Chillán was in yellow alert. While walking there, we met two carabineros on horseback who wanted to know which way we went. Don't know if they would have forbidden the rr. The ascent to Laguna el Lobo is through deep sand, it was very tough and took way longer than we thought. We ended up camping at the Laguna which was nice enough. The ascent from there of the first little hill seemed completely unnecessary to us, at least if you have been by the laguna, as you descend to the same level. It would be worth it to walk to the right and ascend directly on the brown mountain, following the GPS from there. The ridge walk was tough as well, a lot of scrambling. The GPS often wanted us to go right of the rocky tops, where going left or directly over often seemed easier/safer. There is no water until the valley between the two passes. There, we also found a nice campsite right after the big stream on the bottom, a little to the left.
After reaching Rio Ñuble, you follow it for a long time. There are multiple streams running towards it where we had to take off our shoes - no lack of water here, though. The alternative also fords Rio Ñuble itself in a different location compared to the rr - we had no problems whatsoever there. It reached mid-thigh and wasn't too strong, and we are both around 160 cm. It is a very low snow year though, and very dry. Here would be a nice place to camp.

After rejoining the rr, we decided to continue to the waypoint "camp". That was a mistake, though, as everything around there is fenced in with big signs saying "private property". The second campsite right after is not fenced in, but doesn't look that good on the first glance. The rest of the way to Puente Ingles is gravel road. El Roble has a house that sells sodas - it has a "bebidas" sign.
We crossed Rio Los Sauces beneath the cable cars quite easily, the water was mid-thigh - again very dry year.

Puente Ingles
In Puente Ingles we stayed at a campsite a little north of the cable car crossing, marked on the map in Locus Maps as "lugar". It is 10,000 per tent, there are bathrooms, cold showers and tables. They also have a cabaña which was occupied. Puente Ingles has a small shop with sodas, ice cream, tortillas, biscuits, coffee and chips. It is quite nice to bath in the river. The bus still leaves at 7 and 10 in the morning.

* '''2021-Dec-15 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

Beautiful view of volcán Antuco when walking up towards the ridge line by Laguna Laja and a staying at Los Peucos camping site was a big highlight on my journey on the GPT. Had my dinner in their wonderful hot spring while staring at the clear starlit sky in the cool night. Two nice guys working here and they even donated me some pasta, fruits and vegetables. Walking near the active Chillán Volcano and watching the fumaroles while being circled by a group of condors was also a cool experience.

With that said, this section kicked my ass. Mainly due to some bad fitting shoes I recently bought in Los Ángeles and because I suffered from bad chafing in my butt which made me walk like I had shit my pants for a couple of days. This combined with some tough terrain (specially near Laguna Laja) and countless of horseflies made this section quite challenging for me. But definitely worth it!

Like mentioned by hikers in the previous years fording Rio Ñuble can be a bit demanding especially for shorter people. It was getting late when I reached the river so I decided to camp nearby and cross the river in the morning. Had water up to the balls (i’m 189cm) and the current a bit strong but it was not too bad.
Hitched a ride from Puente El Ingles to San Fabian and later jumped on a bus to Chillán to buy new shoes once again. Room with private bathroom for 15.000 at hostal El Molino in San Fabian, nice lady who owns the place.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''*2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck'''
Volcan Chillán remains active. The regular route passes the crater closely therefore Option 1 appears currently the saver if someone does not want skip section GPT08 completely. This option passes the danger zone with more distance. In case of an eruption volcanic ash is likely to affect Option 1 but the risk of direct volcanic effects is lower (flash flood from melting snow and glaciers, land slides, lava and flying rocks).

* '''2019-Dec-30 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes + Tobias'''

Overview:
Just want to say quick that the termas vapaors in Mèdano are worth checking out, I highly recommend them. Please consider checking them out, they are only ½ km off the trail and absolutely worth it. They are sauna boxes built around a few hot rocks emitting hot steam. The result is a steam room/ sauna experience. I personally spend over 4 hours chilling out in the steam rooms.
After a 2-hour road walk on the side of the highway you make your way back on trial. This section takes you thru many areas used for grazing livestock with puestos in sight almost all the time. Carizales a small settlement right on trail has a small store and the family also sells bread. There was also a puesto that sold us fresh goat cheese and Coca Cola. It is marked as a waypoint on the GPX file about 20km south of Carizales. Much of the trail is very dry and exposed and the landscape is void of trees and vegetation. There are many great places to jump into the river and cool off. The section up and around the lake offers great views of the mountains, volcanoes nearby and Laguna Dial. The trail itself is well established and never had any real trouble navigation. There were also quite a few hot springs on trail or close by.

Difficulties: Hot and Exposed (especially in summertime). Resupply Distance.

Highlights: Hot springs. Great sweeping views. Pools of cool water to jump into in the middle of the day.

Please feel free to reach out and ask me any questions at Ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-20 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option l start south OH 08 - 02 / Martin '''

Solo. Because I was not allowed to walk close to the Volcanoe by the carabineros, following the RR, had to take the optional start south OH 08 - 02, in Nevados de Chillán Ski Resort. Funny enough, I walked the first day across the volcanoe anyway, it had some smoke coming out but nothing dangerous happened. Then followed RR to the end. Cross country segments in the ridge close to Laguna del Laja were demanding and not ideal for a solo hiker. But it was worth the effort, one of the most amazing views I have seen so far. Beautiful section. Resupplied and stayed for one night in Abanico.

* '''2020-Jan-05 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR /Ty & America '''

Can ford river @ los sauces easily rather than walking from Puente Ingles. Cable Car was all
Locked up. Registration @ El Roble like the others. We camped at the hot rivers close to Volcan Chillan and I fucked up with the gasoline in my stove. Buzzkill...: but Fortunately there was an exit to Termas De Chillan close. We got rides easily from the road.

* '''2020-Jan-03 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Starting at El Ingles and hiking southbound towards Abanico. Lovely section however can be slow at times when the track is hard to follow.
We had to register with the Carabineros at El Roble. Before crossing Rio Nuble there is a large gate with ‘private property: no entry’ written on it. We found this off putting. The river crossing itself was fine in the early morning but could be challenging without trekking poles and with a very heavy pack.
After the Laguna de La Laja the track becomes especially more challenging and rocky. In poor weather it could be dangerous given the slippery slopes and steep descents.
We honestly found this section harder than GPT06 and would swap the difficulty ratings.
Took a bus into Los Angeles at 5pm to resupply for the next section. Did not investigate Abanico as we caught the bus as it was leaving.

* '''2020-Jan-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional hike along Laguna de la Laja / Martina & Ivo '''

Los Sauces to Abanico.

Los Sauces: If you tell the bus driver you want to cross the river by cable car (carro azul) he honks at the bus stop and señor Marcial comes from the other side to get you.
Ford Rio Ñuble: If you are a dwarf like me, you should ask your taller hiking partner to carry your backpack, otherwise it will get wet. Demanding.
Volcan Chillan: PLEASE NOTE: We were absolutely aware that our buddy Volcano could erupt or explode at ANY GIVEN MOMENT and that this was NOT a SAFE option to hike. (But it was beautiful! ...and a bit overgrown in some places. There is not much of the trail left before the first pass.)
Laguna de la Laja: It was beautiful but we definitively wouldn't recommend it. There is no trail along the Laguna. At the beginning you can walk on cow tracks close to the waterfront. Afterwards it's 15 km of cross country. The 3 km into the third inlet took us 3 hours and were really dangerous because of loose rocks and steep cliffs. The following investigation part (@08-04-#002) was mainly a quite nice trail, but we lost it twice and it took us ages to find it again, and in this steep and not very easy terrain you don't want to loose the trail. We were really glad when we got back to the regular route.
From Abanico there are several buses per day going directly to Los Angeles. Resupply in Abanico is possible.

* '''2019-Dec-30 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 1 / Matus & Anna '''

We had to register in Carabinieros. They didn't have a problem with leting us go even regular route, seemed like eventual crossing to Argentina is their primary issue.
Optional 1 - to the juction with valley walk without problem. Cross coutry part on the ridge was easy to navigate. On downhill there is no trail so we went crosscountry again. It's bit overgrown in some spots, we found trail cca after half of descend. Last flowing water is before juction with valley walk. We saw some water holes cca 2-3km before Laguna de Lobo.
Rest of the regular trail - cross coutry sections were demanding. Otherwise no problem.
We got hitch to Los Angeles after CONAF station so no idea about resuply or accomodation.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019-Jan-13 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Lizondo '''
Volcán Chillán was in "alerta naranja".
Río Ñuble impassable at S36° 50.188' W71° 14.935' Better continue following the minor road in the alternative route.<br />
When hiking the alternative east route (Paso Aguila) do not descend to the valley at S36° 57.919' W71° 14.752'. It's unmantained and overgrounded, because of recent forest fires. Better stay above the tree line until Laguna El Lobo.<br />

=Resupply and Accommodation=

*Abanico
At least one restaurant with pizza
Store?

*Antuco (from Abanico)
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants. March 2024: Good Accomodation with a nice Mapuche family in a single room, shared bath with hot shower, washing machine and including breakfast 18000 peso: Fanny, +56 9 9404 4771.
There is an ATM (Fee: 5500)at the town square southend of town which even gives some smaller notes.
Bus to Los Angeles

*Camping Parque Antuco :
10k for camping. Cabañas also. Nice calm place, swimming pool, shade. Electricity and hot showers. Homemade empanadas. Bernabe the owner is really kind and know about the GPT. His number +56 9 9507 2559.

*Puente Ingles
Store with chips, ice cream, bread, chocolate, sodas. Possibly some accomodation option at the store. Campground with one cabaña a little further down the room - sign says cabañas - 10,000 per tent, toilets with cold showers and a room with a fireplace for cooking

*San Fabián (from Puente Ingles)
Many accommodation options - almost everything was fully booked when we were there (Feb 2022).
Supermercado La Montaña seems to be the best option - not the easiest place to resupply, but definitely possible. Harder than in Antuco.
Great Venezuelan restaurant Canela Passion.
Bus to San Carlos

*San Fabian - Fev 2025 (Clara) :
- Very good resupply possible in the supermarket Los Alvis.
- Accomodation : cabaña nativa : very nice cabanas clean, big confortable bed, climatisation, kitchen, pools, jacuzzi. 35k for a 2 persons cabaña (for 1 person). Just in front when you go out, there is a place where you can buy very good tortillas de rescoldo and pan amasado. Lots of restaurants.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

* 2025 - 02 : there are direct buses from Chillan to San Fabian. Then San Fabian to Puente Ingles. Buses at 2 pm and 6 p.m. in front of the carabineros including Sundays and Holidays.

*Puente Ingles to San Fabián
Bus at 7 am and 10 am - leaves from the campground, drives to the shop and the back again towards San Fabián

*Bus from Antuco to Los Angeles about once an hour in daytime.

*A few buses from Abanico to Antuco or you can hitch fairly easily.

* Jan-24 / Joscha

Bus from Chillan (Terminal La Merced) a Thermas de Chillan at 8 am and 2 pm (weekends at 1:30 pm) for 3900 Pesos. The buscompany is "Rembus". Their Website isn't up to date, but you can check their Facebook page for informationen.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
* At the puesto (120,6/1513), the owner does not want us to pass through his land (as of 02/02/2025). He clearly stated that it is private property. It might now be preferable to take a detour through BB, passing well to the right beforehand and rejoining the path well after his house (which was under construction with many tents around it at that time)? (Peggy)

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT08 - Volcán Chillan]]

=Images=

[[File:Segundo_Rio_Termal_zona_cascadas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|This river is hot! Aguas Calientes Valley]]
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (8).jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Laguna Laja and [[Volcán Antuco]], by Matúš Lašan]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-03-21T22:53:05Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to ressuply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money echange), by the border control.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp.

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-03-14T23:19:49Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 3D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to ressuply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money echange), by the border control.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp. Next water further down at (-38.41971, -71.05494).

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-03-14T22:51:08Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 03D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D, the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to ressuply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money echange), by the border control.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp. Next water further down at (-38.41971, -71.05494).

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-03-14T21:46:57Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 03D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D (and the feeling to be giving back to the GPT), the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to ressuply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money echange), by the border control.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him (and 2 carabineros). Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp. Next water further down at (-38.41971, -71.05494).

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2026-03-14T21:44:59Z

OriolGirona:

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''

- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.

Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.

- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.

- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.

==Season 2025/26==

'''GPT12 / 2026 March 10 to 14 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 03D, 04reverse, RR / Oriol Girona'''

I combined GPT11 and GPT12 (joined at km 9.2 coming from 11-01). 6 days total

Awesome week on the trail, so many highlights!: camp at baños Cayuco (hot spring and piñones falling around), the trail from there to laguna Mariñanqui, the ridge on option 03D (and the feeling to be giving back to the GPT), the camp at {12-I} [1.5/1675], a long 2nd breakfast (mate and pavo de harina salado) offered at Puesto Maximiliano [72.1/1549], or the final night at laguna verde. All in good weather. Just love it all!

Puesto {12} [67.2/1822] is abandoned.

There is a Puesto in laguna Verde (-38.51827, -70.98890) I opted to camp at the other end of the lake (small grassy spot with a pit fire and 2 wooden benches)

I finished at RR km 91.8, when a family in a camioneta offered me a lift to Liucura.

In Liucura I stayed at Hospedaje Normita, 15.000 CLP p/night. Recommended.
Good stocked shop where to ressuply: 'Donde Carlitos' (with money echange), by the border control.

Attractiveness 5/5 Difficulty 3/5

NOTE ON 12-03D:
Jan suggested that It would be useful if someone investigates this connection. Here are my comments afterwards:

-On good whether, easy hike and beautifull views till the Puesto (easier than 11-01 or 09-RR final Kms to TrapaTrapa). From the Puesto, an easy downhill through forest on TL+MR . A good candidate to become RR.

-From the highest point of the CC (about km 3.5 from start 03D, 2173m on OSM map), you see the puesto, and its an easy CC on an straight line (the suggeated route, keeps following the main ridge).

-At the Puesto I met the puestero and had a nice chat with him. Looks like he will be ok with hikers passing by. There is limited phone signal and limited water (that he gets with a pipe from far away).

- First water I found since RR [52.2/1335], was a tiny creek bekow the Puesto at (-38.41893, -71.06664), looks also ok for camp. Next water further down at (-38.41971, -71.05494).

* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''

Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.

Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.

Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.

At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00

Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5

'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''

Important information

See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10

Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;

We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep

Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.

Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip

Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here

Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo

Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396

Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed

Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa

We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast

https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8

Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548

'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''

A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.

I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.

Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.

At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).

Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.

Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.

Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.

Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.

At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.

In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.

''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''

We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.

(Continued from Section 11)

In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.

On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.

Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.

Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.

All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.

After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.

Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.

About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!

What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.

We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''

We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.

''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”

Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.

Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954

Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.

Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!

Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!

Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.

Difficulty: 3/5

Attractiveness 5/5

==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy

I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.

I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.

Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).

Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!

I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).

Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).

Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.

Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.

Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).

At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.

*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.

Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.

Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.

Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.

Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].

Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]