Wikiexplora - Contribuciones del usuario [es]

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2025-03-20T12:47:49Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

== Notes ==
'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed. [Roman]: This must be checked if this is possible see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/14tQ2XaaqZ/

Don Ricardo at Candelario Mancilla (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007) is very friendly and can help with logistics. Don Lucho at Ventisquero Chico can be a bit more difficult to interact with, and he currently appears to charge CLP 20.000 per person for the ferry back and forth the river (quadrupeling the price in one season).

Written by Tobi in Dec 2024, please keep edit this and keep it up to date.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-MAR-14 to 2025-MAR-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2 + RR to chalten / Adrien, Julien et Valentin
'''
GPT38 optional road 2 failed:
No boat in the evening or morning, as indicated in the comments, at S 48° 54.508', W 072° 58.847' to go to the glacier. However, the Settlers (Estancia Ventisquiero) was empty (off-season?). We camped there and saw a lot of mice in the evening. The next morning, the puesto Estancia la Carmela refused to communicate with us, despite the fact that they had seen us clearly and that we had called at length. Very pleasant. So we took the option to walk to the intersection of the Diablo Pass, where we pitched our tent and walked to the glacier without our bags. A breathtaking view of the magnificent glacier. Then we returned via Argentina and the Diablo Pass to return to Mancilla and make a loop (without telling the carabineros, however). The return via Argentina is much easier, even though there is a lot of undergrowth. We went off-trail at S 48° 59.436', W 072° 51.701' to avoid the customs officers when we saw the control houses to reach the laguna larga at S 48° 58.920', W 072° 49.908'. Lots of animal trails so off-trail quite easy, nice surprise. That being said, passing the next day by the police house at the control brothel (S 48° 59.938', W 072° 50.363'), they were not very attentive to what was happening outside. Very beautiful path then which borders the lago desierto. A happy Hitchhiking to el chalten to finish.

'''2025-MAR-05 to 2025-MAR-08 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the ferry at 15:00.

We passed the carrabineros, and told them our intentions. They took our details, photos, and signed us on a paper which we have to sign again when we come back.
Hiked until darkness and camped without water at (-48.539079,-72.473925).

Took the trail over the pass.

We had to shout to get David's attention. We have been there at 18:00 and we didn't see anybody. At 19:00 we saw smoke from his house so we started shouting again. Finally he came and we paid him 20k each.
Slept near his place where he told us to.
He told us it's impossible to talk to him ahead and that the only way to use his boat is to shout and hope for good. Like written before - early morning or late evening would be the appropriate time.

On the way to the lookout to O'higgins glacier we missed the trail at (-48.552306,-73038668) and reached to a dead end at (-48551804,-73.042260).

We came back the same way and stayed at Ricardo's "Refugio" for 15k (hot shower, starlink wifi, dinner for 12k, bread for 500, wine for 7k) until the weather became better. The Refugio felt like a tent but more spacious and with a nice mat, sofor us the price worth instead of camping (10k) because the weather was bad.
We asked Ricardo to take us to the border (30k) and hiked section 39.

* ''' 2025-MAR-08 > 09 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > <strike>38-01</strike> > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, nuage puis pluie à la fin
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : frontière, sentier en mauvais état coté chilien

Aux km 12 et 12,5 je suis passé sans me mouiller. Le sentier est globalement envahi du coté chilien, même végétation abrasive que sur la peninsula Florida. Pas de bush-bashing, juste beaucoup de végétation au point que j'ai souvent utilisé mon GPS. Je voulais faire la 38-01 mais j'ai appelé 1h et personne n'est venu. Pourtant j'ai vu le monsieur et je suis sûr qu'il m'a vu, ses chiens aussi. Je pense qu'il ne prend pas les gens seul car les 2 personnes qui m'en ont parlé y sont allé en couple (Sophie & Gaspar, Tamar & Nimrod). Je suis déçu même si je suis content de ne pas avoir payé 20 000 CLP pour 30m de barque. Je n'ai pas essayé de traverser à pied car il faisait trop froid, je ne pense pas que ce soit possible de toute façon. Attention aux marques rouge sur le sentier qui longe le lac, elles n'indiquent pas toujours le bon chemin. Le sentier est parfois très humide, difficile de garder ses chaussures sèches. Du côté argentin par contre, j'ai trouvé le sentier en bon état et il est balisé (il faut quand même utiliser son GPS).
Il faut traverser plusieurs fois des cours d'eau, mais je n'ai eu de ford qu'au point (48.984882° S 72.877802° W). Le refuge Diablo est petit mais c'est un vrai refuge étanche avec 8 places pour dormir et un poêle. Camping à la Gendarmería. Le lendemain au contrôle argentin, ca n'a posé aucun problème que je sois resté deux jours sans autorisation.

'''2025-1-Mar/ 0.5 day/ Hiking/punta Norte - Candelario Mancilla directly: RR / Timothée and Maëlle'''

Due to bad wheather we went straight to Candelario in a day. We heard it is also better to pass both border control in a day ( no reliable info about that)
We did not find a proper resupplying in Candelario. Maria, the tenant of the camping sells eggs and bread, pasta, sauce, sometimes carne (possible to pay with card).
We then waited 3 days in the camping in candelario waiting for the boat with lilian, Clara and others ( quite a nice time with you guys despite the rain and the cold, thanks!)

'''1Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR / 1 days / Lilian and Clara'''

Trail up to the border is easy and nice in forest. Then dirt road down to camping. Weather became really bad and we were very lucky to see Ricardo briging people up to the border so then he took us down.

Passing carabineros is a bit long cause you need to wait an answer on their computer but they didn't check (and even didn't ask) about our food.

Then 3 days of bad weather and no boat make us stay at camping of Candelario Mancilla. There is a grange with table and seats, fire cooking range. Maria sells very good pans (500 pesos), huevos (500 pesos), pastas 400g (3k), tomato sauce (1k). Sometimes meet. Beers (2-3k). She has no more sweets at this period.
Camping is 10k.
There are also possibility to sleep in very little cabañas in the garden with only a double deb inside for 30k and also they have room in their house probably more pricey.

You can purchase boat with her when arriving. Everything can be paid by card.

We had almost good weather window for 37H so took ferry to bahia pescado with amigo patagon for 40k pp.

'''2025-Feb-17 to 2025-Feb-20 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 37H-08I / Sean & Neele'''

We decided to go to the glacier as an out back, going over the pass twice. We took 37H-08I from the campsite as its slightly shorter and avoids some road walking. Was fine.

The three Fords on the way up the pass weren't a problem at all. As mentioned by others the trails is pretty overgrown towards the end of the descent.

Camped in the forest at -48.54813, -72.57438

Trail to the viewpoint (Mirador Marconi) is a bit overgrown in places too.

Camped about 1.5km before settler 23.5km on the way back. There's a few options in the forest around here.

On our way back to the camping at Candelario Mancilla we passed the cabineros after going around them on 37H-08I on our way to the glacoer. We got stopped and were told it wasn't a problem but that we should have registered with them before going to the glacier.

Road walk to border was easy so was the trail to border control. Argentine border guard was very nice and chill, didn't check our backpacks or food at all. We camped here, beautiful spot with a unlocked toilet (door is a bit stiff!).

*'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-03 / 4 days Hiking / SOBO/ RH + RP to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] + OH 08l/ MiaimZelt'''

Summary: my favorite section so far, can really recommend to do GPT 38, although it's a detour. All trails did not present major difficulties. Especially the Peninsula La Carmela was awesome - i highly recommend to visit!

Day 1: Bypassed the Carabinieros on the OH 08l directly from the Campground. Didn't want to waste time in the queue. The OH was nice to hike, good trail until you reach a swamp. There the good trail continues on the other side, but hikers need to go around on small animal trails. The trail up to the pass is easy to follow and in good condition. Sometimes the ground is wet, but not too bad. Ford {38} [6.8/556] was below knee and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] was half calf, Ford {38} [12.5/1005] can be crossed dry on rocks. The way down is easy until it leaves the forest. The last part down is partly overgrown and the gps is necessary. Directly continued with the trail to Mirador Marconi, but pitched my tent after 1h in the forest.

Day 2: Several streams provide water and many options to pitch a tent in sheltered locations. Was rainy when i reached Mirador Marconi. Continued a bit on 04A, to reach the best viewpoint. Very impressive view at Glacier Chico! The trail from my camp 'til there was mostly easy to follow, but the part with many streams was not always straight forward.
Before you reach Ford {38} [40.1/994] (dry crossing on rocks), the GPT leads you through a marshy area. I prefered to bypass most of the wetland in the open forest or on dry ground next to it.

On my way back i met Anna and Josef, other GPT hikers. They have met Don Lucho at the puesto and had arranged a transfer to the Peninsula for the next day at 8am. We spend the night together 200m from Settler {38} [27.0/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) - not abandoned, it belongs to Don Lucho and his son!

Day 3: Easy hike to Ferry, Port {38} [25.0/259] (Desague Lago Chico). Son David brought us to the other side with a rowing boat. It's 20.000 CLP per person there and back. The trail to Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is easy, but a GPS is recommended because several animal trails are present. The view at Glacier O'Higgins is even better than Mirador Marconi, truely special scenery. I very much recommend to visit the Peninsula. It's definately worth the effort and the money. The investment in the settler's is a very good one! Hard to understand, why only few tourists visit this spot.
Unfortunately weather was not good: rain showers and strong winds. Was glad to get back to camp, to warm up in the sleeping bag. Camped at the same spot like Day 2.

Day 4: Backtracked on the same route like on day 1. Together with fresh snow on the mountain tops, the views were even more beautiful. Camped at Candelario Mansilla at Ricardo's place, which i highly recommend. 10.000CLP/person with hot shower and good WiFi.

Next day i took Ricardo's Taxi to the argentinian border. It's 10k/person with at least 3 people. 30k solo. From there it was 1h easy walk to the argentinian Carabinieros.

* '''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-21 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO (clockwise)/ RR + RP + RH + Variant H + Option 01 + GPT-37H-08I/ Roman'''

Route: Arrived at 08:00 at Candelario Mancilla with the ferry. Took the RR to X {38-01} [0.0/593] from there followed RP to GPT38-H end. There took Variant H to reach the shore of Lago Chico. Packrafted to Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) via RP. From there followed Option 01 until the end at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?). Packrafted Rio Chico. Hiked the same way back via RP and RR with GPT-37H-08I to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]. Took the car to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] and hiked RR to Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514]. [Map of the route: https://imgur.com/a/Kjnkw4p]

Weather: Sunny little wind on day 1. Sunny and close to no wind on day 2. Day 3 rain until noon after that cloudy. Day 4 cloudy little wind.

Details: I arrived at 07:45 with the ferry from Lago o Higgins and started hiking right away without collecting a stamp as the Border crossing must have happen at the same say (see comments: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17fh9huMTn/ / i also edited the note of the article). I met at the end people who informed the Gendarmerie about they're trip - they took fotos and some information. I haven't done it. Hiking up the road is easy. The trial starts at X {38-01} [0.0/593] and is clearly visible and easy to hike still checking the GPS from time to time is worthwhile. The Ford {38} [6.8/556] was calf high and easy. Ford {38} [12.0/967] and Ford {38} [12.5/1005] could be crossed via stones. The last steep part (last 1 km) to Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) is a bit overgrown and there a multiple animal trails so check the GPS. The Enstancia apparently belongs to Don and locked with heavy lockpad and can not be accessed. I continued to this point -48.982173, -72.988839 and camped there with water close by. There are multiple water/camp along the Route. All points marked with water have sufficient water flow during the time of hiking and I only included ones where I think they carry water for most time of the season. All of the additional markers can be downloaded at the end of the summary.

The next day i stared at 07:30 AM and hiked up to GPT38-H end and took Variant H to reach the shore of the Lago Chico. The CC part is steep and goes trough a forest and across some vegetation. The trail is woth following. Going this way up is very demanding i imagine. Camp {38} [54.0/277] wasn't very clear for me but cou can definitely camp at the "beach" with protection from all sides except north. I started packrafting at 09:00 AM there was little wind (10 km/h from W) forecasted. At the end it was ~10km/h from S i guess it was mountain wind (cold air coming down from the mountains/glaciers). The packrafting was beautiful without any major difficulties. I stopped at Port, Lake {38} [49.1/391] (Glaciar Chico) around 11:00 AM and started hiking at 11:30 AM. The way to the Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) goes trough the valleys of the glacier rivers which is a bit exhausting to hike as everything is soft. As soon as you hike out of it along a dried out river bed it becomes easier. The Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) looks like a awesome place to stay and it was open and also had apparently electricity but I haven't tested it [see: https://imgur.com/a/PfqELJp and https://imgur.com/a/KFEcK5M]. After that it's easy CC up to GPT38-02 end. There the seep part starts. To provide some detail's. It's definitely steep with some parts going up to 50% but it absolutely doable. At the beginning there is ankle high vegetation which becomes lower and lower. As there is always stable vegetation and no rocks etc. you have good traction and there is no risk of falling/slipping (can't judge it if it's wet). It's important to mention that during the ascend there is no cover and you are completely exposed to wind/rain etc. You can walk the hill up in a fairly straight line until the rooks start. There you go left into a wide Couloir which takes you to compared "flat" valley which brings you to the pass where you find water again and you could pitch a tent. Picture of mountain and the path i took [see: https://imgur.com/a/xM1TpuT and https://imgur.com/a/WtkOH5h]. The way down from the Pass {38} [40.5/1225] to the trail start here -48.953238, -73.12036 ia family easy. From there on its a absolutely beautiful trail and you just blaze with fantastic views down to Ferry, Port {38} [25.1/259] (Desague Lago Chico). I met Don and I asked him if he offers a boat ride to Candelario Mancilla as i didn't want to hike in the rain but he only offerd the transfer across Rio Chico as described earlier before 07:00 AM or after 07:00 PM which i declined as i have used my packraft. Camped at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which was a beautiful place but i also have seen some mice.

The next day i waited until 14:00 in the tent until the rain stopped. After that i backtracked the same way back to Settler {38-A} [0.5/310] with the Option GPT-37H-08I as this saved some KMs. Staying at Don Ricardo's place was a blast! Had a awsome dinner for 10.
000 CLP and hot chocolate for 3.000 CLP. Camping was 10.000 CLP and a friend was even allowed to stay in the hous for campers during the night to dry his stuff.

The next day started with a awsome breakfast with the homemade bread for 8.000 CLP was fantastic! As I already hiked the street by this point in time two times I used Ricardo's shuttle to Border, Pass {38-01} [8.2/687] for 10.000 CLP on this day i collected the exit stamp in Chile (the salvoconducto i already requested at the 17.01.2025 for this date of crossing 21.01.2025. After that hiked to the end of the section at Border Control AR {38} [48.0/514].

Overall: I really enjoyed the section and especially the remote parts of insula La Carmen and the packrafting close to the glacier. I would absolutely reccomend the section. If possible I would plan to camp at Settler {38} [23.5/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?), Refuge {38} [47.1/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) and somewhere around Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874] and taking 38 RH around the island [RH-TL-V {38} [0.0/1.3+25.7]] but according to the latest information this is overgrown. This is why i backtracked.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Additional Markers):
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tJMdljpdL1kgWoU9KQ

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-18 to 2024/ 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + New opt + opt 1 + EXP 04A/ Celio '''

We did the península la Carmela and Glaciar chico traverse going NoBo starting south of desierto lake at the toro valley and we ended in north shore of desierto lake. Then we did RR to candelorio mancilla and crossed to Bahia Pescado and did the west traverse of península la florida.

This option involves bordercrossing, but for us it permitted to not go to the chilean border then back to la península. Since I did this hike couple years ago I wanted to discover another valley to arrived a the Glaciar chico, the Toro valley.

We started here 49°06.687′ S 72°54.982′ W and followed a decent trail going up the valley left of the river. It's alternate between a trail and some easy CC until a ford on a tree (49°03.954′ S 72°57.700′ W), 200m further there is a bridge on the other river on the right, we crossed it and went to the casa Toro (49°03.961′ S 72°57.468′ W), hoping it was a hut, but unfortunately it's a closed "luxury" one. So we camped close to it.
Next day we crossed again the bridge and find a decent trail going up the old, now forested, moraine, to arrive on open CC. You get good view of the lake and glaciar. From there it's easy CC until the actual climb of the pass. From 49°02.188′ S 73°00.044′ W to 49°02.306′ S 73°00.280′ W it's steep CC on loose rocks or snowfield, after this you get to the pass cañadon de los toros (49°02.347′ S 73°00.809′ W). The way down start with a moraine not very nice and then we arrived to the Glaciar lakes and the GPT38 EXP 04A. We forded the river just below the lakes and joined the GPT38 opt 4 at the refuge {38-04} [4.3/690] (Refugio Pantoja) (door is broken and exposed to the wind). Then we went down to the Glaciar chico and crossed it were there is nearly no crevasses (Glaciar experience recommended...). We joined and slept at the Refuge {38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide), it's feel like your are on the moon there!
Next days we followed the GPT38 opt1, it's CC until Pass {38} [40.4/1225], then you follow a trail all the way. Lucho is still there at the estancia la Carmela with is son, but we had to wait the end of the day since they were working on the other side of the península. They made us crossed for 10000$ each (same as 10 years ago, no inflation!). We went back to the north shore of desierto lake by the diablo valley and went by the refuge (sleeping there is possible).
Puesto {38} [35.0/530] (abandoned, Mosquito) is a ruin and there is only flat spot for a tent and cows to warms you during the night!
At the desierto lake we got a food box sent from el chalten for the next 6 days for the GPT37H west traverse of península la florida.

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2024, so references to trails codes before that time are probably wrong.'''

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-03-20T12:43:59Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

'''25-03-09- 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / RR- SOBO - West Loop / Adrien, Valentin et Julien'''

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-03-20T12:42:10Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

"'25-03-9 - 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / West loop circuit ; Adrien, julien et Valentin"'

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-03-20T12:27:14Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''25-03-10- 25-03-13 / 3,5 days / SOBO / OH1 - Exp 1b - OH1 - Exp. - RR / Volker'''

I did a bit of exploration, as I walked along Lago Ciervo and Laguna Negra and rejoined the RR first via a non-verified CC (OH1b) and later via a direct connection from S 48.537517° W 72.669037° to S 48.550910° W 72.639453° on the RR, which is not in the track files.

In Villa O‘Higgins I stayed at Puesto Canogas (+56 9 7107 6639), the owner, Carolina, is a local historian, she has published a book on the local crafts and the craftsmen and writes stories for children, based on oral tradition of southern Aysen. So for 45k you don‘t just get a nice room with breakfast, but also support the formation of collective memory in this area.

Day 1: I brought a parcel with food and some stuff to the Rueda office to ship it to the settler Misael Tosnado (+56 9 6518 4260) , whom I had asked, if I can stay with him until the next boat to Candelaria Mancilla arrives. Carolina brought me to the bridge over Rio Mayer, where I started around noon, by climbing a gate. The path along Lago Ciervo seems to be an abandoned Conaf trail. Heavy rain the night before turned it very muddy. After the ford at Rio Negro a locked gate. I found a way to slip under the fence in order not to destroy it by climbing. Very very muddy along the beautiful Laguna Negra. Camped at its western end on a protected place 5m into the forest (very windy on the beach)

Day 2: OH1b Exp. was steep CC with some BB, but not too difficult. After rejoining OH1 at S 48.535995° W 72.708453° I went WEBO, passed by a small Laguna and at a second, larger laguna (Laguna Candilla) turned right for a direct CC connection to the RR (very steep, a bit of BB and a bit of easy rock climbing to avoid more BB). When I arrived at the highest point at 1250m, it got very scenic. Then down on RR to Laguna Verde. Fords easy, but with exception of the two steep CC parts again very swampy. Camped 1km before Laguna Verde on a green spot besides the river.

Day 3: Again very swampy along Laguna Verde and then down to Lago O‘Higgins. As I had taken an option, that didn’t lead me along this huge lake, it was a magic moment, when I first saw its turqoise water and the whitecaps. Noone at the puesto, which belongs to Misaels brother. The ford before the refugio easy, however water over my knees. Camped on the indicated spot at the beach, which is protected against the strong wind from the lakeside, but not against the wind from the mountainside (fix the tent pegs with stones!) Nevertheless I prefered my tent to the refugio, which has no windows and is quite drafty.

Day 4: The quite overgrown trail with a lot of BB is sometimes difficult to find (if you don’t want to permanently use your device, look at the logs, they often indicate the way, where the path disappears on grassland). Only once I followed misleading cow trails and in order not to walk back 15 min or more did 100m of terrible BB. The trail goes up and down, often very steep - and with all the BB it’s quite physical - but always very scenic (stunning waterfall). It took me 10 hours of walking for 20km. Close to Misaels hut a ford through stagnant water. . Misael later said, it‘s just up to the knees, but I didn’t see this traverse, so it was up to my waistline (1,97m!). The day ended with a great meal, Misael had prepared. Instead of continuing with the Rueda boat to Candelaria Mancilla the Next day, I waited for a boat the next day, which took me to the mountain guide Leo Munoz at Rio Condor (+56 9 6904 9561) on the western (chilean) side of Lago O‘Higgins).

"25-03-9 - 25-03-12 / 3,5 days / SOBO / West loop circuit ; Adrien, julien et Valentin

Day 1: RH-TL which runs along the eastern part of Lake O'higgins. Camp (S 48° 35.190', W 072° 34.877) before the big climb up to the lake, well sheltered from the wind (behind the dead tree trunk), a river not far upstream. Miseal's advice: take the RR instead, it's prettier and easier.
Day 2: Difficult navigation after the pass (Portezuelo El Rose), wet trails and abundant swamps.
Day 3: Before the pass (Canadon Los Patos), abundant swamps, maybe better to go for it with wet shoes.
Day 4: Okay, the end is bushy, but it's doable.

Miseal: 35 euros for the day, 15 euros for a half, quality meat, and the Misael tortas are incredible. He's really nice, we had a good chat with him. Easy communication with the boats so they could pick us up at Bahia Pescado with extra food. No waiting list during this time.

'''2025-Mar-5 to 2025-Mar-8/ 3.5/ Hiking/ NOBO west traverse/ Timothée and Maëlle'''

Hiked with Lilian and Carla: had a great time, thanks guys!
After 3 days of rain and wind waiting at Candelario, we arranged a traverse to Bahia Pescado ( 40 000$ with amigo Patagon)
The boat left us in the evening, we slept at camp 66.0 (vista fitz roy): Nice spot.
2nd night: Arrollo Derrumbe: great.
3rd night camp 29.3/549 next to laguna verde: really nice spot but mosquitos.

First time on an unused trail of the GPT for us: much more challenging with a lot of section overgrown: bahia Pescado - camp vista fitz roy, around km 50, laguna verde...
Nothing terrible. It has never been real bush bashing.
The trail can be a few centimeter under the water when walking along laguna verde.
All Fords were easy to cross.
This is a very beautiful section, with absolutly nobody around and great views and hikes.
The wast day was a bit longer but much easier than the 2nd: easier terrain, and possible to hitchhike from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O Higgins.

*'''5Mar2025 - 8Mar2025 / hiking NOBO / RR west traverse / 3 days + 1h / Lilian and Clara'''

Bahia pescado 18h30 after the boat, we began to hike directly as Misael was sadly not here and the weather was great.
Misael phone number if you want to contact him before +56 9 6518 4260.

Weather : it was hard to see a good weather window of more than 2 days for the next 10 days so we decided to go for the west traverse even with 1 rainy day and 2 partially cloudy (and not much wind). Rain was light on that day but with the overgrown parts, pants and shoes became very rapidly full of water. The other days were better than previous on YR. Garmin weather forecast was more reliable. Windy was good for wind prediction but not for the rain.

Navigation :
- Bahia Pescado to the pass 67.6 : trail not clear and partly overgrown but ok with gps. Improve a bit after the pass.

- Then mostly nice trail, we found it easier to follow than we thought before. Still some short overgrown parts, animal trails and wet/marshy parts (especially after these rainy days), need gps but it doesn't slowed us down that much.

- One part not clear around the short varD, we tried to follow RR but trail become invisible, maybe the variant is better ?

- CC after camp48.6 and after trail head 54.8 (not good number?) are not easy CC navigation ones. Need to zig zag between trees and bushes. For the 2nd one, around 540m altitude you will find a good trail (-48,64858, -72,73679), then navigation gets easier.

- All the CC parts after the pass 39.3 are often inconstant trails or CC in open landscape so it's easy.

Camp :
- 66.0 : large place for tents just down the waypoint. A bit wet after these rainy days but campable and awesome view on Fitz Roy and sunset.

- 48.6 : Arrollo derrumbe. Very nice and protected (even a bit from rain behind this huge tree). Water only from the lake.

- 105.5 laguna verde : very wind shelter and lake is very beautiful !! But lots of little flyes and anoying mosquitoes in the evening. Fresh water flowing in the lake 200m before the camp.

Fords : mostly easy under knee (even after one heavy rainy/snowy day the day before we began)
- 31.7 knee level fast flowing
- 30.2 rio san Martín was mid thighs (1m57) flowing slow.

Section attractiveness : it was awesome to feel alone around these magic landscapes. Even day 2 with little rain but big low cloudy roof was nice. Other days were better than expected so we were very happy to took decision to go for it !

* ''' 2025-MAR-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT37+GPT38+GPT39
| Meteo : soleil, pluie le jour 2
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : marais, bush bashing

MAR-03 > 04: Repos Villa O'Higgins car mauvais temps.
J'ai reservé un bateau 60 000 CLP avec "Ruedas de la Patagonia" entre Bahía Pescado et Puerto Candelario Mancilla. Je leur ai laissé un colis avec 5j de nourriture pour les GPT38 et GPT39
Le concurrent c'est "Amigo Patagón", je ne sais pas si le service est identique. Il est un peu moins cher à ce que j'ai entendu. Je vais beaucoup mieux, le médecin m'a donné quelques médicaments à prendre si je retombe malade. Après la pluie je pensais que les torrents seraient en crue mais ils sont facile à passer. Pas de ford au km 19,8. Au km 20,6, 100m après le ford il y a un passage dans le bush pour rejoindre le banc de galets. Si la pluie n'a pas posé de problème pour les torrents, elle en pose un pour le lac et les sentiers. En effet une grande partie du sentier qui longe le lac est inondé dès le km 24,7. J'ai bien géré avec les flip-flop et j'ai gardé mes chaussures sèches en acceptant un peu de bush-bashing. Pendant la nuit le fleuve qui sort du lac a perdu à peine 4cm. Le sentier au bord du lac sera sûrement inondé 4 ou 5 jours. Pour le second col, le sentier, les camps ainsi que les marais étaient inondés. Impossible de garder les chaussures sèches surtout qu'il a commencé à pleuvoir dès 10h. Un peu de neige est tombée au col. La descente aussi se fait dans un sentier parfois inondé. Pas de ford au km 44,1. Il a cessé de pleuvoir vers 16h. Au km 53,7 je m'attendais à trouver une cabane mais il n'y a qu'un tas de planches 200m avant et une cabane minuscule en rondins 200m en hauteur. J'ai trouvé que le sentier était plutot envahi dès le km 64,2 et ce jusqu'au km 70. Contrairement aux étapes précédentes du GPT, la végétation est très piquante avec des petites branches très raide. Ca a vraiment ralenti ma progression même si souvent la végétation ne depasse pas les genoux. Au km 66,5 par exemple c'est tellement envahi que c'etait un ford, et le camp au km 66,6 était inondé.
Je me suis arreté chez Misael à Bahía Pescado pour attendre mon bateau du lendemain matin. Pour 7 000 CLP, on peut dormir à l'abri avec wifi, toilette chaude dans un seau. C'était top, il est très accueillant.

'''2025-FEB-25 to 2025-MAR-1 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / west traverse RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took a ferry from Villa O'higgins to Bahia Pescado and hiked the west traverse NOBO.

There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return.
Both wanted 55k clp pp.
To Bahia Pescado the price was different - Amigo Patagon asked for 70k and Ruedas de la Patagonia asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).
We went with the pricy one because the other had seats only at noon and we had only 4 sunny days.
The ferries depart at 7:30. A ride from town to the port is included in the price and departs at 7:00.

It took about 1:30 hours.
Misael helped holding the ferry because there is no port.
We had mate and stayed with Misael for a couple of hours. We would recommend planning to stay in Bahia Pescado at least half a day if you have time.
He has wifi and you can contact him ahead. He also have a room for guests if you would like to spend the night there.

The trail's description in the manual was pretty accurate and we don't have much to say about it.
Hiking NOBO was nice because from Bahia Pescado the trail becomes better as you head north until the trailhead, and we think that CC[53.9/41.1+1.7] is easier going up.

We loved the scenery on the west side. The turquise lake with Fitzroy and the glaciers were spectacular.

All fords were easy and there were no snow on the passes.

'''2025-Feb-8 to 2025-Feb-13 / 6 days (indluding 1 zero) / Hiking / SOBO “X” route (Q circuit with a trip to Pass Canadon Los platos) / RR / Sean & Neele'''

We planned on doing the full 8 but weather and conditions changed our plans. We ended up doing the Q circuit as described in the manual with a trip to pass canadon Los platos as well (X route?). We felt the trip to the pass was worthwhile but Bahia San Martin was not. We had pretty mixed feelings about this section but we were unlucky with the weather which probably played a part. The trail is very overgrown in places. We didn't enjoy coming back on the eastern side of the northern circuit, in hindsight we'd have come over Portezuelo Los Corrales pass again as it has better views and better trail.

Ford 10.5-11.4km all about knee deep after a rainy day.

Pass 15km snow from around 800m up on North side was manageable going up wouldn't have been fun to go down. Was only about 5cm on the pass won't have lasted long.

Ford 21.6 was knee deep and pretty strong in the afternoon.

Fords 30.2 to 38.8km all fine.

*'''2025-Jan-27 to 2025-Jan-30 / 4 days hiking / SOBO Mix of East and West Traverse / RR + Variant G / Miaimzelt'''

Summary: Beforehand it i organized it with Ruedas de la Patagonia that they pick me up at Bahia Pescado and handeled them a supply package. Misael Tisnado was supposed to be at home the day i wanted to arrive in BP. Because of the unreliability of the ferry i took food for the full-8.

Note about the weather forcast: according to YR and Windy (ECMWF) i was supposed to get 10-30l/day of rain and also stormy wind. In reality i got a few showers and surprisingly lots of sun. The wind was indeed very strong. ECMWF was good for wind, but not for rain at the Peninsula.

I have mixed feelings about this section. The views are indeed impressive and some trails are very nice. But others are badly overgrown and i really struggled at some points. The biggest challenge for me was the bushbashing. Although wearing long hiking pants i got tons of bloody scars at my legs.

Day 1: Because of heavy rain the days before i decided to hike the eastern side of the northern circuit. According to other hikers, some rivercrossings at the western part can get nasty.
The first car took me to the end if the Carretera Austral, where i started. The beginning was a nice trail with beautiful views. Besides from a swamp without solid ground, where i needed to bushbash to the other side, it was fine. The CC down to the beach was fun, also the beachwalk. Very strong winds started. The CC up was a bit difficult, because the terrain was overgrown with bushes, but it was ok. The trail to the pass was mostly in ok to good conditions. Down from the pass was often wet, but never difficult. Laguna Verde is very beautiful, i camped at Camp {37H} [105.1/549] with good protection from the wind.

Day 2: Ford, X {37H} [30.7/575] (Rio San Martin) was easy and a bit about knee-deep. Ford {37H} [32.2/632] was a bit lower. Up to Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) it's mostly easy CC, sometimes there is a trace on the ground. I enjoyed it, the part i didn't like was the wetland before reaching the pass. The views are spectacular!
The trail down was clearly visible and sometimes very steep. The 2km CC it only a straight line in the track, but that's not the reality. It was very hard with the combination of crazy winds (pushed me aside many times, forcast said up to 95km/h), steep slope, loose rocks and lots of thorny bushes. The part between the end of CC and Trailhead {37H} [55.6/344] was the most difficult for me. It's divided by a swamp without solid ground and lots of thorny bushes. To get to the other side i followed an animal track up and tried to bushbash to the TH, which was stupid and dangerous. I stumbled down a small cliff (hidden by the vegetation) and was stuck between trees and bushes. I was really afraid, but could free myself. Later i found a small stream, in which i could walk to the TH.

The trail until Camp {37H} [49.1/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) was nice and easy again. The camp provided good protection from the wind.

Day 3: Puesto {37H} [53.7/550] (La Pampa) is only the enclosure but it has good protection from the trees. The trail to Puesto {37H} [59.8/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho) was the best part for me. Easygoing and scenic views most of the time.
It continued like this, but the quality of the trail worsened soon. It became more and more overgrown (mostly knee to hip high), but from time to time it was still nice walking. Down to Bahia Pescado i needed to check the GPS frequently, the trail was mostly overgrown. Overall it was ok to walk.
Unfortunately Misael was not at home because his boot home was delayed. So no WiFi, I needed to ask Ruedas de la Patagonia per Inreach. I assumed the ferry will be postponed because of the strong winds (little better than yesterday) and continued. The first CC was easy, also the beginning of the trail. After a gate the trail was completely covered under (sometimes thorny) vegetation, 1-2m high. The worst part was here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Badly overgrown bushbashing with muddy and wet ground. This was definitely over my limit! It took some time until it improved. The panorama-trail along the cliff was nice, but the wind was annoying.
Camped at Camp Without Water {37H} [76.1/464]. Needed to clear the small area (1 person tents only) from cow pies and small thorny vegetation before pitching my tent. Awesome protection from the wind! In the evening i got a message: the ferry will come the next day at 3:30pm.

Day 4: Continued in the same direction, but after Water {37H} [76.3/443] it was again overgrown all the time, this time only knee-high. Frequent check of the GPS was necessary because several animal trails are leading astray. After 40 minutes i turned around, because i wasn't in the mood to squeeze through bushes more than necessary. This time i bypasses the worst muddy-bushbashing at the rocky beach between Water {37H} [71.8/271] and Water {37H} [71.3/265]. This is what i recommend doing, at least it saves you from parts of the BB. Heavy rain started 1h before i reached BP. Spend the time with their two dogs and sheltered myself from the rain in the tiny vault toilet until the ferry arrived.

* '''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 4 / Packrafting / SOBO / 37H-10A + 37H-10 + 37H-08 + 37H-08A + RR / Roman'''

Route: Started from villa o higgins to passo Mayer and crossed it to the argentinien border control by the route is published in GPT-36H. From there I went with with the Option 10A and the beginning of Option 10. I used GPS Informationen from someone I met a few weeks earlier and crossed via the mountains back to Option 10. After that i went with Option 8 and 08A to reach the shore of Lago o Higgins. From there I packrafted to villa o higgins and entered via the Rio Mosco border. Other options will be described at the end.

Weather: The first day was bmsunny with no clouds. Day 2 was expected to be bad. Rain and snow and strong wind throughout the day. Day 3/4 sunny close to no clouds.

I hired a private pickup from villa o higgins to passo Mayer (60.000 CLP) as the public bus (2.000 CLP) didn't matched my schedule (details: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18983dhVDL/). From there I hiked to the Bridge {36H-14} [201.8/476] where I got a lift by a local all the way to Border Control AR {36H-14} [191.4/480]. Started hiking at 13:45 PM. The Bridge {36H-20A} [2.0/464] is ok to pass but not in the best condition (https://imgur.com/a/cli2uGn). After that it's Trail and CC. There is a Gate here -48.320875, -72.21669 and a Settler here: -48.327207, -72.216404. A ankle deep small river requires a Ford here -48.329369, -72.21814. There is another gate here -48.354017, -72.22336 is is also where the trial starts after the CC. Camp Without water: -48.382875, -72.208171. The Ford {36H-20A} [18.9/535] was knee deep and ok. Puesto {36H-20A} [21.4/564] was what i have seen only the enclusure. Ford {36H-20A} [21.5/562] was as anticipated challenging. As I was solo i opt for a short crossing with the packraft. If you walk along the river there are options to Ford - would still consider it challenging and hip deep if you don't go further up/downstream. I camped here -48.409553, -72.180312.

The next day started with rain and i went to Puesto {36H-20A} [23.2+0.4/581] fore some shelter. He was very friendly and helpful- stayed there until 12:00 PM when the rain stopped. He gave me Bread and something to drink. The hiking from there to this point -48.445516, -72.176228 was animal trails and CC trough the forest. Generally easy hiking with one steep gravel part. After that there was a nice trail until -48.46065, -72.150333. There is a steep downhill trough the forest. After a short traverse trough the forest a very steep part begins. Those are basically boulders 1-4m diameter in the forest covered with leaves. You will make 250m elevation in 1km. This is one of the crux if the section. After that i was caught in a 10min snow/rain storm. After that it's CC trough the forest until -48.490804, -72.148285 from where is open CC. I was faced with 2 hours of hiking in snow/small ice crystals until -48.541864, -72.199693 where I slept and camped. There was no wind protection. On the other side of the river was a forest with i guess way better spots. But the river had due to rain quite a lot of water and I didn't crossed it that day.

The next day the river crossing was easy a bit above knee and fast hiking. As it was Thursday and Friday it was a long day. After a long CC stretch there is a waterfall/cliffs at -48.638549, -72.395307 where you have to go around the right (west) and traverse the mountain before there is a steep section where you can hike down to the valley. After that it's CC until you hit the trail here -48.658808, -72.423893. It becomes CC here: -48.675658, -72.435116. After that CC and Animal trail trough the forest until you hit the trail again here -48.690092, -72.459724. From there its all trail with a gate here: -48.695736, -72.501378 to lago villa o higgins. I slept here -48.701069, -72.522333.

The next day i wanted to packraft back to villa o higgins. I thoroughly checked the weather before the trip and daily during the trip to get a feeling for the development as Friday was the only possible way to packraft northbound to villa o higgins. You have to packraft at least to "island" Ford {37H-08} [16.4/270] from where you could hike out. Alternately as soon as you reach -48.53111, -72.547087 this point you can walk along the beach (CC). I started Packrafting at 05:45 with 4km/h WNW wind with guest up to 12. This increased until 16:30 PM to 11 km/h 18km/h guests NW wind. Which enabled be to packraft the whole section with a average speed of 2.4 km/h (my packraft is normally 3.0 km/h). After that i hiked to Border Control AR {37H-08} [4.3/290]. The minor road was completely flooded and shitty to hike. There is a settler here -48.497027, -72.557765 which i mistake for the Gendarmería but he was very friendly and nice. The boarder guards where impressed and very friendly as apparently not many people to this route. From here one out i followed the 37H-08 to villa o higgins and got my entry stamp here Border Control CL {37H} [0.3/271] without a problem.

Alternative ways out: If the conditiones doesn't allow the NoBo rout via packraft you can continue hiking to Settler {37H-08} [57.0/271] (Estancia La Josephina) (https://www.instagram.com/estancia.lajosefina?igsh=MTkxM2N3azY5eGRwNg==). They offer to camp for free. Breakfast and Dinner 75 USD (they take credit card). Accommodation is 75 USD. From they offer a boat ride to Grupo Cocovi [Camp {37H-08} [6.2/259]] (where you would also end up with the packraft) for 400 USD. They also offer a boat service to puerto Cancha Rayada (-48.886707, -72.388161) for 150 USD. (NOTE - the Chilean boats are not allowed to enter the argentinien side so they can pick you up there. From there you can connect back to the GPT track. Alternately you can hike to the same point. Once there you either hitchhike out via RP31 to Tres Lagos or continue hiking around the lake. For the Border crossing to reach Candelario Mancilla you have to exit argentina here: Gendarmería Grupo Lago San Martin -49.12617, -72.49184 and enter Chile here Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. From there on everything is as normal. If you want to go to Argentina you need a Salvoconducto and need to leave again also at Border Control CL {38} [1.0/308]. This is all according to the Subcomisaría Villa O'Higgins (F) which whom I spoke about this. For all those options you need to take sufficient food - keep in mind you can also get something in the enstancias along the way.

Overall: It's a very remote section with beautiful views and i absolutely stunning enjoyed it. There are definitely some very steep parts of the hike which make it challenging - especially the nature of the route SoBo makes you extremely dependent on the weather. This has to be kept in mind and planned accordingly. I would reccomend this option for people with exploration spirit and an intrest in remote parts which have no problem taking the alternative options at the end of the trail.

Files (GPX and KMZ /// Tracks and Important Markers):
* https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5tI8mmMfzsXLi3RNR_Q

Legend:

* Red: Trail
* Light Red: Suggestions for better Trail (not hiked)
* Green: Open Cross Country
* Purple: No trail trough the forest bust fast hiking like Cross Country
* Blue: Packrafting

All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-Dec-31 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR + Variant G / Roman'''

Route: Started in Villa O'Higgins at 12:00 PM and got 2 lifts all the way to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Started the hike followed the RR with Variant G. Ended at Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) and git directly a lift back to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez).

Weather: Before i started ther where 2 days of hevy rain (trees had blocked the road to the ferry) i followed the forecast closely (meteblue with the fitting weather models). After 10AM it was dry and the next 5 days were predicted blue sky and great weather with day 2 cloudy. I guess the hervy rain only effects the first 2 days in regards of Fords etc. all other points depend IMHO more on the season.

I left my packraft at El Mosco which brought my weight down to 11kg with food which allowed fast hiking. The descriptions in the manual are all very accurate - in just mainly want to add my impression also in context of thrle season.

I got 2 lifts which brought me right to Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez). Ford {37H} [10.5/565] was knee deep and easy. I skipped Ford {37H} [11.2/567] and Ford {37H} [11.2/564] with walking on the right side which was ok. Jump Ford Ford {37H} [11.4/564]. Ford {37H} [11.4/567] was knee deep and easy. No snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales). For Ford, Camp {37H} [18.4/637] there is a tree https://imgur.com/a/df9DLeb -48.571747, -72.656732. Camp -48.57239, -72.657142. No water and no Ford at Ford {37H} [19.8/607]. Ford {37H} [20.6/586] was knee. Ford {37H} [21.6/575] was the trickiest one on the whole trail and close to the limit. As deep as my whole leg and 3-4 cm below hip (iam 179 cm). Fast flowing with volume and mid-range witth. Camped at Camp {37H} [24.6/552].

The beginning of the next day was tricky - high water of Lago Verde caused me to hike 250m in the lake to reach {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) everything was below knee. The following part until X {37H} [27.0/546] was annoying as some parts of the trail were ankle deep under water - if there was no space left i had todo light BB for a few meters. After X {37H} [27.0/546] good trail or easy walking on beach which was sufficient above the waterline. Ford Ford, X {37H} [30.2/575] (Rio San Martin) is easy - slow and wide flowing but deeper then I thought its above knee. Trail until Ford {37H} [31.7/632] also below knee. Trail animal trail and CC up to -48.637034, -72.691577 from there is a trail all the way to -48.648578, -72.736794. Needed to Ford here -48.640301, -72.709011. The other i jumped. A bit swampy up the hill but you can avoid wet feet. Down is steep and wet - trail tricky because wet. CC easy to Trailhead {37H} [54.8/344] ok to good trail -
condition - easy to follow check time to time GPS that you are correct as there a some animal traols which branch off - would even go so far so say some what maintained. Ford {37H} [43.6/444] easy below knee. Ford {37H} [45.6/404] nasty one - vegetation in the way and fording goes around the corner. You go 3-4m straight until vegetation blocks the way there you go left (upstream) towards the light for 4-5 m trail is on the right front. A bit deeper then ankle deep. CC was ok before Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) camped there.

Next day trail condition remains the same as stated above. Needed to Ford here -48.709878, -72.752919. Gate here -48.71032, -72.752736. Puesto {37H} [53.2/550] (La Pampa) was only the enclusure. Enjoyable hiking seen somebody at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho). Continued hiking took Variant G. Ford {37H} [63.5/375] below knee easy. Needed to Ford Water {37H} [65.9/343] which was a bit shitty as this was again dense vegetation while fording. Meet Bahia at Ford {37H} [69.3/255]. The Ford was very easy https://imgur.com/a/jBW6p35 at the current season. Now comes a short section which is a bit shitty as it was 20m of BB as the water runs down the trail and very dense vegetation here: -48.826471, -72.676567. Overall clear trail bit overgrown with vegetation hip to face from this point all the way to Water {37H} [71.8/292]. After that you get rewarded with IMHO the best part of the trail. Narrow at the cliffs with beautiful views the whole time https://imgur.com/a/zlbgnlx. Trail condition back to the old ok/good well visible even call this maintained. Water {37H} [75.7/443] steep canyon but looks more difficult then it is (at least when dry) camped at -48.834566, -72.625291 place for 1 2 tents no so wind protected but beautiful view!

The trail remains in good condition and good hiking apart the first section going down to the beach after the camp where I slept. Met Guillermo here -48.80081, -72.557165 while he was cleaning the trail with a chainsaw. He wants to clear the next 5km aswell (so the direction i was coming from). He and his family was very welcoming and nice. He mentioned that the Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) can be challenging and the water can go above waist. He reccomend to cross in the early morning or evening as the water level are the lowest (see hikers manual). The CC section down from Pass {37H} [88.0/576] to Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) was definetly CC. I was well advised to follow the reccomend GPT line. I found some freshly cut trees (max 1 month old) here: -48.758043, -72.556528. The Refuge {37H} [89.4/278] (Bahia Aro) had a destroyed window. As the satelite image looked worse than it was at Ford {37H} [69.3/255] i assumed that it should be possible and also better then the upcoming mentitioned difficult fords. Fording was between knee and waist hight. It's a long Ford but not so difficult if you look for a good line. Crossed it at 15:30 PM. Didn't needed to Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro). Water {37H} [91.0/276] has a small bridge (two blanks) and a gate. Here was another gate -48.733258, -72.556809. Camp Without Water here: -48.72741, -72.55783. Water {37H} [93.4/395] was actually a Ford. The section from Pass, Camp Without Water {37H} [93.9/422] to the lake is CC in a river bed. Found a trail from -48.712738, -72.555335 to -48.710717, -72.555519. The level of the lake was quite low (I assume because it's still early in the season) easy walking with 20-30m to spare to the shore. No water therefore no Ford at Ford {37H} [96.7/255]. The Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) was similar to the one before. Knee to waist hight. Long but absolutely doable corssed jt at 17:30 PM. Stayed at Camp {37H} [97.4/262] in the enclosure.

Day 5 was easy and fast hiking as described in the manual. The way up was in very good condition until GPT37H-L starts there the next 1 km was as described earlier hip to face high vegetation. The pass was easy to hike aswell the way down. Between Water {37H} [110.6/858] and Water {37H} [110.9/859] were 5 more spots you can call "water" or "ford" they can be all jumped the safe way would be to shortly ford them. There was water here -48.587975, -72.586089 and -48.540457, -72.595853. After that is was easy hiking all the way to X, Camp Without Water {37H} [8.9/349]. I got a lift directly at the Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to Villa O'Higgins.

Overall: It's a beautiful section and I absolutely enjoyed it! I would strongly reccomend waiting for a good weather window. The trail was basically the whole time in a ok to good condition.

General contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2024-dic-24 to 2024-dic-28 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR west traverse / Celio, Amalia and Isabelle'''

We took the boat from Candelario Mancilla to Bahia Pescado the 24 of diciembre early in the morning and stayed the day at Bahia Pescado with Misael. We took a dayoff and helped misael on what he needed then we had some fresh trout and salad for Christmas!
For the boat we arrived at Candelario Mancilla with no reservation and were lucky to find out that they navigate the next day. Having cash to pay is better with no reservation. We payed 40000$ with Ruedas de la Patagonia.
Misael is currently alone at Bahia Pescado since Nicole broke is leg in August and he will be alone all the summer. It was very nice to spend some time with him and he is welcoming! Pan amasado and Cordero were delicious.
After the dayoff we left for the west traverse. The trail is mostly visible all the way and I think the hardest to follow is at the very start when you leave Bahia Pescado and go to the fisrt pass. The CC section before the Pass {37H} [39.9/1006] (Canadon los Patos) is easy to navigate and you find some trail.
The ford of the San Martín river at laguna Verde desagüe was just above knee deep but with low current.
The camp at arroyó derrumbe and laguna verde are amazing!
We thought that's an amazing hike, very diverse and with no difficulties when the weather is perfect has we had!

* '''2024-Nov-19 to 2024-Nov-26 / 7.5 / Hiking / SOBO (Full 8 Circuit) / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 19.11.2024
Walked the whole road from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. Not too many cars. Was able to cross the bridge at the electric station without any problems didn't see anyone, there was a car though.
Trail was easy to follow afterwards. On ascent to the first pass I checked the GPS more regularly. Close to the top there were several snowfields. Around the pass was a large snowfield which needed to be crossed. It's hard to tell how long but I think between 500 - 1500 m. Walking on it was relatively easy. No snowshoes necessary at the current situation. Path was hard to find and follow afterwards due to several smaller snowfields. When entering the forest it was easier. Camped on the other side of Ford/Camp 18.4. there are two camps with a self made shelter/wind protection.

Day 02: 20.11.2024
Walking through the forest is amazing! Path was more or less easy to follow. Keep an eye on your GPS though. At around 21 km I could really figure out how the RR goes. Where it was supposed to be there was the river and next to it was too dense vegetation. Also on the over side of the river I couldn't make out where the trail is supposed to be. I headed west to the forest and after crossing a swamp and finding my way it was easy going.
Only had to actually ford three fords the whole day. Ford 21.6 was the first one. But the water never went above my knees.
Walking to Laguna Verde, I lost the track every now and then. At Laguna Verde it was mainly beach walking for me. The ford at 30.2 after Laguna Verde was the second one where I needed to take the boots off. Water was around knee high. Afterwards it was relatively easy to follow the track. Ford 31.7 was the third I needed to take the boots off. I forded a bit more upstream looking for an easy option with boots on.
From there until camp 36.5 it was mainly easy to follow trails. Only lost the track a couple times. There is no water directly at the camp.

Day 03: 21.11.2024
Way up to the pass had an amazing forest on the way. Trail was mainly easy to follow. Beginning of descent was easy to follow. On the CC sections I often got off track and usually stayed too high. I think ford 45.6 had an overgrown entry to the water. Exit door this ford can not be seen right away. It is a bit to the left (upstream).
Landscape was amazing! Some sections with thorns vegetation in the way.
Camped roughly 500 m after Pass/Camp not water 55.2.
Was hard to find a wind protected spot.

Day 04: 22.11.2024
At the beginning the trail was relatively easy to follow. Later I kept a close eye on the GPS. There was nothing special except the amazing landscape today. Passed Bahia Once Hermanos without seeing anyone.
Afterwards I lost the trail quite often. I was happy wearing robust long trousers! Trail was overgrown a lot. Sadly I didn't meet anyone at Bahia Pescado. Camped at Camp no Water 71.5.

Day 05: 23.11.2024
Short day. Nothing unusual. Trail was overgrown a lot. I think more than yesterday. Ford 79.1 Cascada was easy with not much water. It is a stunning waterfall!
Found a nice place at Lago O'Higgins and stayed there.

Day 06: 24.11.2024
Trail was the same as the last days. Not too hard to follow but better keep an eye on the GPS. Trails was overgrown a lot for the first part of the day. Got better later. The trail/CC part after pass 88.1 to ford 90.0 Rio Aro was hard to follow. Ford 90.0 was knee deep.
Ford 96.7 Rio San Martin was a bit more than knee deep in the afternoon. The current was kinda strong but not dangerous. Stayed close to Camp 96.9 between some trees.

Day 07: 25.11.2024
Way up to the pass was easy and nice. The river in the canyon looks super cool! Way down to the lake was mostly easy as well. Last km or so where the way splits I took the RR. It was overgrown a lot. Beach walking was nice. Way up to the pass was mainly easy to follow. Parts were overgrown. It took me longer on the plateau than expected, swampy and the small creeks were not always straight forward to pass. Way down was steep and overgrown but mainly easy to follow. Stayed on the shore about 350 m north of Camp 114.9.

Day 08: 26.11.2024
Last day of the hike was easy with some middy sections and some overgrown trail. Passed the hydro station without seeing anyone.
Right after the ferry I got a ride with three guys from the Armada. Stayed again in Hostal El Mosco. It's a really nice place.

It was a really nice trail! For me it was sometimes hard to stick to the GPX especially when walking on a slope. I was really lucky with the weather, only had real rain three times. It wasn't to warm but that was expected at the time of the year. It was interesting not meeting anyone for the whole time.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian'''

Trail attractiveness 5/5,
Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before.
The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail.
We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long.
Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew'''

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom'''

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed.
Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

* '''2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha'''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

* '''24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš'''

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

* '''2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)'''

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people!
Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side!
-At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp.
She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome!
-camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse.
-puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat.
If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy.
-Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

* '''2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

* '''2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe'''

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

* '''2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).'''

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on [[GPT38|that wiki page]].
We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week).
If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account.
If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236).
There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco'''

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2
The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge.
We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer.
Km 96 demanding ford n°3
Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

* '''2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej'''

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

* '''2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will '''

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

* '''2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach '''

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis'''

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above.
We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

* '''2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov '''

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km
Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

* '''2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin '''

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* ''' NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.'''

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis'''

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

* '''2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik'''

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

* '''2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu'''

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card.
There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck'''

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are:
1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive)
2. La Rueda
3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

* '''2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

* '''2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:'''

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

February 2025:
There are 2 ferry companies taking tourists from Villa O'higgins to Candelario Mancilla and return. Both asked for 55k clp pp.

To Bahia Pescado the price is different :
* Amigo Patagon (+56 9 9476 8331) asked for 70k.
* Ruedas de la Patagonia (+56 9 6627 8836) asked for 55k (same price for Mancilla).

Both depart at 7:30 from the port.
The price includes a ride from Villa O'higgins to the port that departs at 7:00.
Ruedas de la Patagonia had another ride at 14:00.

The days differ according to the weather. Best way to know is contact and book ahead.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins]]

=Images=

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2025-03-07T19:57:43Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT12 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT12 (Rio Rahue)

2025-03-07T19:57:06Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
<div style="overflow: hidden">
=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]

November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. The regular route is proven and works. Will alone and Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of each other almost identical traverse, that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the 2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they think it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04 (and possibly 11-03). Please edit this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.

=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.

=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
</div>

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"

Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)

One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.

Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect

We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.

We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhiker the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.

Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)

'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''

Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).

'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''

We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.

A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.

Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00

Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!

Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.

RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.

Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!

Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.

Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.

* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''

Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.

Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.

Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.

Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.

Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.

* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite

A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.

* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''

The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy

Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.

Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).

Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.

Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.

Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.

* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''

Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.

Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.

varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.

VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.

83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)

Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).

45 : mid thighs with little current at midday

Option 1 : nice and easy way up.

Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).

After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.

CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.

Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.

When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.

VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.

Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.

At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.

Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.

* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt

We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.

Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.

Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.

We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.

Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.

Water 41.4km - Entel signal.

Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.

Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.

Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.

Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.

High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.

Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views

Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.

Continued on to 11.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''

We combined this section with section 11.
Day 1: Lonquimay - (-38.39301, -71.18538)
We left Lonquimay on a Sunday morning, taking option 5G and then option 2b. We wanted to take the ferry, but it doesn't run on Sundays (but at the time we passed it, we thought it could be done on foot). We were picked up a few kilometers after Lonquimay and dropped off at Caracoles where there's a footbridge. We decided to explore and walk along the Rio Biobio to reach the ferry and option 2. There's a passage that connects the two points. We continued on to option 2. After crossing a bridge (in poor condition but holding), we looked for a place to pitch our tent, which we found along the river.

Day 2: (-38.39301, -71.18538) - laguna marinanqui
Beautiful forest and valley sections with incredible views. We reached the RR in the morning. Magical trail, lots of waterholes.
No particular difficulty for us on this part.
When we got to the lagoon, there were plenty of places to pitch our tents on either side, which was really nice.

Day 3: Laguna marinanqui - camp {12} [17.0/1794]
First part of the day with lots of fords to pass without difficulty. Another beautiful day. Lots of puestos on the way. We met Walter in a valley, he is very welcoming and kind.
In the afternoon we hiked through the forest past the hot springs to reach our camp for the night. Quite a windy night, but we were relatively protected.

Day 4: camp {12} [17.0/1794] - puesto de Valentin
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.

* '''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''

Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)

Pinones tips:
Try piñones with nutmeg + parmesan, or merken + cumin (with salt and a bit of oil of course)
Cooking these take a lot of boiling - we brought a large gas canister and it lasted us eight nights (8 quick dinners, + 4 x 1.3 L pots full of piñones) with an occasional warm breakfast/tea.
Expect to spend an hour peeling each pot (two people) after cooking for 20 minutes - it's a LOT of work.
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day

* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..

RR at the beginning to the section is passing threw few fences. As other said, easy to avoid them. I met some nice people at the beginning, very friendly and we had nice talks, that was enjoyable !

Lagunas are great. At the end of Maximilian valley (that I unfortunately missed, but spoke with his employee, nice guy), I continue on the pass then took the variant H, but not sure it worth it, as there's no real track and I finished into a very steepy part It's losing rocks to reach the lower valley. So I guess RR is better.

Not felt very welcoming by the pehuenche locals here (KM64,95), surprisingly because other hikers had great experienxes. They were not rude at all, but just don't really want to communicate. Anyway, no problem to pass and they confirm me the way to shortcut by the valley field.

After the pass, you'll reach the lovely lagunas, with stunning views over volcanoes at the top of the pass.

The way down will not be very fast as it's cc. Stay over tree/bush line, then plonge straight threw the Araucarias. The path will be more and more clear when you'll be at the balcon level, going all the way along the valley.

There's a tiny wooden bridge that have been created and allow you to passe the Rio without having wet feets (Ford {12} [45.4/1039]). The bridge is a bit further the RR indicated ford, at the location 38°20′55.44″S 71°09′22.48″W.

Then the path is very clear and easy to follow. I took the variant A to avoid the multiple ford crossing as it was freezing morning. I succeed and join RR with dry feets (but miss the Laguna marinanaui and the apparently very nice gorges).

At that point, I was surprised by the attraction rate of this section (5/5). It was nice, but imho not deserve a 5. But I continued my way, go up to the pass, join the volcanic plateau and arrive to baños de pelehue). And this last stretch was absolutely amazing. I slept a pelehue, had a great hot bath, one has been created with rocks, it's a bit like on the bottom, but so nice after a hiking day !).

Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil

* '''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''

Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...

Banos Coyucos at 20.4 are not really nice warm springs. It is dark, no view, mildly warm, (natural) dirty, not very deep and the cold river next to it has no pool. Variant C was no problem, bit swampy but doable. The way north of Laguna Marinanqui for maybe a km or so can be tricky to find, lots of tracks in this jungle.

At Laguna Marinanqui the southern camp is better, even the meadows are full of shit everywhere, the sand is a bit cleaner, there is a fresh stream and the water not as shallow. It was really cold in the morning mid March, my towel and shoes hard frozen. Maybe better to camp a bit further away from the lake then I did (20m) end of seasion.

Option 02A: closed gate with very muddy surrounding at -38.354982,-71.164045 shortly after intersection with 02b start. I think 02b is blocked by a fence. Anyway, just follow some path close to the river, it leads to -38.355085,-71.164881 where the fence can be climbed easily and afterwards return (might be a bit swampy) to 02A.

route blocked by difficult fence at -38.396035,-71187372 but next to it is an easy to open gate, just follow the path afterwards, leads you to a dirt road and another easy to open gate, theres is some agricultural storage and behind paths connects to regular 02A.

Option 02A: Camped where 03C ends, connection to 02. There is a small stream and access to the river north of it for some bathing. I hide my tent behind some bushes around 20m away from the road, which has veeery little traffic. Still late night I woke up from some voices and torches. I guess reflectors on my tent where reflecting the car lights even through the bushes. Anyway the people moved on after their curiosity was satisfied. Next day I met the settler on the road, interrogating me a bit, but quickly turned friendly and gave his ok. Generally it is easier to camp anywhere north of settler 02A Fundo Rahue, afterwards there are lots of fences, it gets dry and dusty.

Option 02: 100 to 200m north of the ferry on the eastern side of Rio Biobio side seems a nice campspot.

I combined GPT 9 to 12, but run out of food so I decided to shorten GDP 12 by hiking to Lonquimay after Laguna Marinanqui. I found plenty of Piniones, but had not enough fuel, and cooking them over open fire in my tiny cooking pot is annoying (did it twice).

Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.

* '''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.

Day 1 March 2nd

The first two days were actually on GPT12 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!

The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.

Day 2 March 3rd

We continued on GPT11 Var F. Tons of water on the way up. We watched a helicopter pull water out of a large pond and dump it on a small fire on the hillside. At km 26.17 saw a building from the road with the word provisiones painted in large letters on the back wall. We did not need anything else, and the gate was closed, so we did not check to see if it was open.

We found out first piñones of the season! We collected probably a kilo of them. We passed through Pelehue which it turns out is nothing. We camped by the river about 200 m before the turn onto GPT12 Opt 01. I walked to the Carabineros to register us, it was quick and easy. We had just finished dinner when a family stopped by and offered to let us stay with them and asked if we needed anything. They were so kind and thoughtful, it was very touching.

Day 3 March 4th

We finally officially started GPT12. We collected more piñones. The Carabineros passed us on horseback, so it's probably good that I took the time to register even though the path doesn't pass right by them. It was sunny all day, pleasant walking, all fords were easy. We camped at (camp 12 [31.6/1306]). It was fairly flat with grass and river access about 30 m away.

Day 4 March 5th

A short day. We walked to Laguna Marinanqui.
When we were there, it was possible to walk the distance between (camp 12 [31.6/1306]) and (ford 32.5/1296]) without following the track up and down the dusty trail. It requires a few additional fords, but with warm weather, being in the water is very pleasant.

We camped at the north side of the lake. It was windy until the sun went down but calm after.

Day 5 March 6th
We stayed at the lake for a rest day.

Day 6 March 7th
From the north side of the lake it was a bit tricky to find a path to connect to RR going around the lake as the ground was very muddy. Sticking closer to the big plant clumps helped. We collected more piñones at the south end of the lake. By this time we had probably 5 kg of them. Amazing views along the route that day, nothing especially difficult. There were some areas where the trail was damaged by landslides, but reroutes had already been created to get around them.
We camped by the river right after the last ford at (-38.34864, -71.15528). There was a small path leading into the trees and to a small clearing. After a bit of site cleanup it made for a really nice and protected camp site.

Day 7 March 8th

It was a short day. We were confused as to whether Opt 3 of the current track files was the correct route up to the plateau or not. We tried finding it but had no luck so we decided to go with what showed up as RR on the GPS and Gaia. It started raining and was fairly windy. The ponchos I had bought us did not work well and we both got wet. We camped around the marked campsite at the end of Var E.

Day 8 March 9th

Back to a calm sunny day the next morning. It was cross-country for parts. The assent to the plateau was demanding. We could not find any true paths, though there were many things that appeared to be paths for short distances and would just end abruptly. I started referring to them as the mirages of the mountains.
After reaching the plateau, the first laguna we arrived at was very pretty, deep blue water surrounded by green grass, and a few birds floating on the water. The area around was unfortunately too wet to camp on. We walked to the two larger ones but the area around was not pretty and the water was very shallow with a muddy bottom. We saw another heading back the direction of Option 3 and camped at the first one we came to (-38.36201, -71.07188). It was very cold, but fortunately there was no wind in the night. It was so silent there.

Day 9 March 10th

We took a long time getting to the two passes, taking a lot of photo stops. On the way down to the valley it was very windy and the ground was wet, so it was slow going until the forest. The forest areas were very beautiful sand pleasant to walk through. We camped in the valley just past the river at (-38.38830, -71.02145) in between several huge araucarias. It was very windy during the evening but that spot seemed fairly wind protected. It also had some visual screening from the road and the nearby puesto and river access without having to go to the road.

Day 10 March 11th

The valley was quiet and sunny in the morning. We headed up Var G. There was an unmarked puesto at (-38.38774, -71.01221). We were still fairly far off when four dogs started barking and slowly making their way out direction. We decided to go CC up the hill a bit and rejoin the path later which seemed to work at first. But after we rejoined the road we could hear them start barking again and they sounded like they were getting closer. We kept moving and eventually the barking stopped.

The road diverged from the Var G track and we stayed with the road. Eventually there was a fork near a puesto. We went CC on a horse path that eventually connected to the road that I think came from the downhill fork. We followed the road and then did a bit of CC until we connected with the end bit of Var H to get to the pass. Where Var H and RR meet, we had lunch and coffee. The route down was fairly easy to follow. It was extremely windy until we reached the forest. It was a very pretty forest, I think beech mixed with araucaria.

We met a woman and a child at the first puesto. We just said hello and asked if we could pass and she said of course. One of their dogs followed us for the rest of the day, but no matter what we did, it wouldn't leave. RR up to Laguna Escondida was a dirt road the whole way. It was in pretty good shape. We were surprised how many roads were in this area. There were nice views of the valley the whole way up. Laguna Escondida was also very pretty, especially in the later afternoon light. Water access is not so easy, but by breaking off the trail where it turned to the forest and heading straight for the lake, we found a small path to a beach. The water was clear. As it started getting dark, the dog finally left heading in the direction of the valley.

We camped in the forest at (-38.47284, -70.97987). It was a ways away from water access, but the weather report was predicting 80 to 90 km per hour winds in the night, which turned out to be accurate. The trees overhead were blowing all night, but our tent hardly moved. We were very grateful for the wind protection.

Day 11 March 12th

There was a bit of route finding to get to the other side of Laguna Escondida. The view from the top was great. In the valley we started following a dirt road. We weren't paying too much attention to the GPS and ended up off the route. We then really misinterpreted the map and thought we could follow the road all the way up and then just cut across at the top of the hill, but we kept getting further away from the route. We ended up going with our plan anyway and it worked in the end, though it probably added some kms. But there was an interesting wetland area, some great views of the valley, and some interesting rocks, including one that looked like a Buddha head, so a worthwhile detour on the whole. There were house trails cutting across to the pass to Laguna Verde. There were dogs at the puesto on the NE side of the laguna that started barking when we could just barely see them so we stuck to RR. There were some nice views of the lake going around it, though it was easy to see why it's called Laguna Verde, there was plant growth from the edge growing several meters into the laguna all the way around.

We camped close to a stream, around (-38.53009, -71.00810). It was not very wind protected, but the wind stopped after it got dark.

Day 12 March 13th

We hiked up to the plateau. There were some horse trails, but it is also partially CC. After the plateau, to stay on RR we found a spot on the downhill side of the barbed wire fence where we could climb up and over rocks instead of the fence itself. The white rock structures passing along that way were really impressive. We really wanted to walk the ridge, but there was a lot of wind that day. We made it up to the beginning of the ridge, but the further we went up, the more intense the winds became. The weather report predicted gusts up to 75 kph, so we decided to take Var Q down to Var P. It was worth the climb anyway as it provided a different view on the white rock mountain. Var Q was easy to follow down and Var P is a dirt road nearly the entire way to Liucura, not particularly scenic, but not bad
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.9-7.2]

I directly continued from section 11 and just hiked up to the camp at km 7.2. There is a small wooden shed and right next to it one small flat spot (big enough for a 1-person tent)

Day 2: RR [7.2-9.7] + OH11-02B + OH11-02B + RR [12.9-33.9] + OH12-C + RR [34.3-37.7]

There is lots of water around the two hotsprings Pelehue, but it has a sulfur taste. I can absolutly recommended OH11-02B and OH11-02. You have to scramble up some steep, rocky slopes, but the 360 ° views up there are amazing. There is Water at km 0.6 of 02-B and water provided by big melting snowfield right next to RR at km 14.0. The Banos Coyucos Hotspring (km 20.5) are nice and big enough for at least 3 people. I had no problems with flies at Laguna Marinanqui. The Puesto at the camp at km 37.7 is broken down and there are a few flat spots next to it. There is water at all markers.

Day 3: RR [37.7-69.4]

No Water at the Water ? waypoint at km 54.4. But RR passes a Laguna at km 55.9. There is also water at km 62.4 and 66.8. And at all water and ford waypoints.

Day 4: RR [69.4-88.0] + OH12-N + RR [91.5-102.2] + no official track to finish

Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.

* '''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''

We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.

We took the bus at 7:30 on a Monday in Temuco and arrived in Liucura around 13:00.

After a Churrasco just next to the Border Control, we walked only until -38.443407, -71.000961 as it was really hot and the backpacks felts a bit too heavy. This place was a perfect camp with a nice stream of water and a flat and protected place to pitch a tent. So, if you arrive a bit late in Liucura, you don't have to cover nearly 20km to get water.

We also camped at Camp {12} [35.5/1279] and it was really nice and the lake was beautiful and at the perfect temperature to swim.

Another campspot we picked was Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). It was really nice but after passing the Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue, Poorly Maintained), we would had preferred to stay there. The view is incredible and there is some grass patches to pitch a tent. The hot springs need maybe 1 or 2 hours to be digged properly but it should totally worth it.

Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).

* '''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''

Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!

* '''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''

I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.

My "goal" was to reach each hotspring marked on the map (4). My favourite was the one at the end (near Guallalí), because I meet a chilian family on vacacion there and they had dig the spring large enough for them six !
The baños Coyucos "moved" : there are just below the Camp {12} [20.4/1625], where one's finds a bench, a table and a place for firecamps.
The termas Pelehue definitly disappeared, but the view there is very scenic.
The Hot Spring {11} [32.0/1428] are a bit dirty, sibce ciws like to lie in them, but one's can easily "clean" them a bit and enjoy a warm bath : I choosed the uppermost, and therefore warmer (Yes, there are two).

The sections 11 & 12 were beautiful to me because of the passes... and difficult for the same reason. First Pass {12} [68.0+0.2/1909] was actually Ok, because the way (northbound) goes slowly up.
The second Pass {12} [57.4/2180] was more difficult, due to the mud, and particularly on the way down for me, since I lost the trail and found myself stuck in a forest of small trees.

The real DIFFICULTY for me was the last Pass {11} [27.6/2174]. After nine days, my body and mind were really tired. I forgot the advice of previous walkers and tried to go up through the forest (because of the sun exposure in the valley). I lost an hour and had to go down to the river. Moreover, the last 100m, with the snow and rocks, were doable, but the idea of sliding really scarred me.

Something else scarred me at the beginning of my journey (and it shouln'd have...) : it was the attitud of some "caballeros" towards me, a solo female hiker. Most of the "caballeros" are nice and will help you, but some can be really insisting. (I had to yell at a man asking me for five minutes if I wanted a compagnon for the night... It was 3 a.m. and he had wake me up with his light and dog). But he was not threatening, "just" asking over and over.

Actually Laguna Verde and Laguna Escondida (where I met those insisting men) are still nice memories to me ! By the way, I recommend the beach on the south side of Laguna Escondida ; the north one is skinny, inhabited by mosquitos and very "escondida" (hidden) in the bushes.

What else ?
I avoid the Pehuenche Extortioner taking CC road, and it went all good.
There is a bridge some 120m west of the Ford {12} [45.4/1039],... whereas there is no more bridge at Bridge ? {11-C} [0.3/1109], but it seems very easier to cross the Estero Quillaylemu there, rather than on the RR.
The river crossing is Ok, and there is plenty of water all along the way.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''

I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.

{12-01} from km0 to pass[4.6/1499] is dirt road walking.

Pass[4.6/1499] : huge flat area, look like is a car camping spot, i saw 5 fire ring here. Lot of spots for camping, some spots are beside trees, with weather protection. Road is damaged after the pass, no more cars running.

Km5.1 : welcome to a beautiful valley!

Ford[7.5/1403] : crossing of Rio Pulul, rock bar underwater, flowing slow and up to knee, easy. Later you will cross this river some more times.

Km8.1 : join RR.

Ford RR [31.4/1301] : start crossing Rio Pulul several times until [33.6/1285], all are easy crossing as now, the deepest is around knee only.

Camp[31.6/1306] : a beautiful spot.

Lake,camp[33.9/1281] : Laguna Marinanqui. I never saw so many fries in my life, OMG. The lake shore is muddy, I think the south shore is a better camping spot.

I take {12-C} here, because too many fries, after i take some photos beside the shore, i don't want to go back to find RR, i just want left this area.

{12-C} km0.1 : cross a warm stream, some logs for crossing, but they are all underwater, also muddy around it, maybe better after some weeks. Crossing is easy, step on logs then just above ankle.

{12-C} km0.2 : rejoin RR.

RR Km34.3 - km35.4 : trail beside the lake. Most of them are muddy, with hundreds of fries, OMG. I'm so disappointed i can't have some relax time here.

Camp[35.5/1279] : beautiful camping spot with 2 big trees. Less fries here, also is a dry area for camping. Estero Rucausey(a stream) is flowing nice with clear water just beside it.

Km35.75 : excellent view point of Laguna Marinanqui!

Water[41.4/1173] : upstream 40m, you can step over the stream.

Km41.1 : grassland can fit 1-3 tents, but a little steep.

Km43.4 - km43.65 : cross 3 small stream, all look like need a muddy crossing, but not. All of them, you can find a spot for step over, or a log help you for dry feet.

Km43.4 : after the crossing, flat spot with grassland can fit 2 tents under trees.

Km43.65 : before the crossing, large flat area can fit lot of tents, but no wind protection.

Km43.85 : junction of RR and {12-D}, also dirt road start to south.

Ford[45.4/1039] : before you go down the river for crossing, compass West 100m is a large, nice flat area beside some big trees, wind protection provided by some brushes. River is up to knee but flowing slow at early morning.

Easy walking until km51.3.

Km47 : look at left side, a beautiful hilltop with rock column!

Km48.25 : pass, a steep side trail at left side(north) leads you to viewpoint. Steep for climbing up, be careful. After enjoying the view, don't go down with the same trail, go to the east ridge for go down, then CC back to trail, it is gentle, easier and safer. Before you left, look up the top of huge rock, there is a branch pressed by stone. Maybe some crazy people bouldering to the top?

Km51.3 : junction of RR and {12-E}, RR after here just like CC, very overgrown, most of the time long grass coverd the trail, i just can use my feet to feel is it a trail i step on. Sometimes you'll step on some old cow path, then follow it walking to some wrong direction, be careful, check GPS more frequently.

Km52.8 : junction of trail and CC climbing up. From here to km53.7 is steep climbing up on loose sand on RR or the trail shown on OSM. You need to find some grass foot spot and step on, tired and take long time. After i climb up a while, i cut to south side and join the spur, it is much easier and faster because lot of trees surrounding this spur. Hard leaves and sticks on the ground, also the soil is stable. I just need to step by step climb up on the stable ground, no need to find where is my next step, is it too loose or too steep to walk on.

I also find a clear path at (-38.34710, -71.07574), look like climbing up on "zig zag", but i lost it after about 20-30m.

Km53.7 : tree line end. Climbing up on some rocks, much easier now.

Water? [54.4/1930] : flowing low with warm water, maybe dry up later. Lot of tadpole and frogs swimming in it.

Km55 : going in the plateau. Very beautiful area, blue lakes, green meadows, curved streams, small snow patches and some big birds, just like a aquarelle hanging on the wall.

(-38.35842, -71.06810) : excellent view point, 360° beautiful views on a tiny rock hill! Climb up just 2 min!

Km55.5 : look like it is possible to find a flat spot for camping beside the lake at east shore, beautiful but no wind protection.

Km56.3 - km56.65 : flowing good with clear water by snow melt, when you climbing up this stream, don't forget to turn back take a look, beautiful plateau is behind you, also VIEWS of (from left to right) Volcán Llaima, Sierra Nevada, Volcán Lonquimay and Volcán Tolhuaca!

Pass[57.2/2177] - pass[57.4/2180] : after you climb up to the pass, go down a little to east at 2160m is better, you can walk on a flat ground going south, much easier. Also when it is close to the second pass, a clear path and some rock cairns shown up.

Pass[57.4/2180] : no snow at north side, just a little snow remain at south side as now. You can go around it on left side (east), or take 20sec to 1 min go down the snow patch directly. Easy.

Km57.7 - km58.5 : walk your own way going down, sometimes you'll find some cairns and a clear path about 10m, then disappear.

Km58.75 - km58.85 : steep snow slope, DON'T slide down at here, big hard rocks at bottom waiting for you. You can kick step going down but steep, or like me, go around at left side(NE), then go down a steep rocky slope.

Km58.85 : wet, muddy, slippery trail starts, until km59.5 going under tree line. I think it is a pretty place in dry season.

Km59.6 : blowdowns maze starts, tons of blowdowns cut the way, then lot of cow paths and dry riverbeds mix together. Sometimes the trail shown up and disappear for blowdowns. Need pay more attention here. Until km59.9, the trail becomes easy to follow.

Road end[60.4/1745] : Dirt road start. Junction of another old dirt road on right side(west) after here 100m, it looks flat and no cars running on it, you can camp if need, also this old dirt road leads you to a small stream after 100m.

Km61.5 : junction of RR and {12-F}, before this junction 20m, there is a clear trail going down, i followed it, and it is easy walk to Puesto[61.8/1550].

Puesto[62.9/1523] : no people no dogs here.

Then i joined {12-H} for climbing up.

{12-H} km2.6 : i would like to said, here is covered by some heavy brushes already, just like BB and CC mixture. I saw the ground have some horse prints, looks like have a better reroute, but I don't know the way and it is difficult to follow so i lost it, lastly BB CC to Puesto[3.1/1822].

After puesto[3.1/1822], trail conditions become better, easy to follow and walk.

Pass RR[68.0+0.2/1909] : still a tiny snow patch beside the pass, but nothing at pass. A beautiful area.

Km70.7 : Dirt road start, until Laguna Escondida(RR km76.4).

Ford[73.6/1517] : if you follow RR, no need follow cross this one, turn left and cross the small one.

Lake,camp[76.2/1750] : covered by many trees, but no views.

Km76.4 : dirt road end, if this grassland is dry, it'll be a very beautiful camping spot with excellent lake view.

Km80.7 : junction of RR and {12-K}, beautiful views here! The valley towards Laguna Verde is so nice. Flat area here, wild views but no wind protection.

Remark, {12-K} is an impossible route, the mountain top at (-38.50732,-70.98472) is some vertical rock column, i think about 40-80m, can't climb up to walk, also can't go around, mostly is 70-80° vertical wall.

Water[81.9/1889] : flowing good with a flat spot can fit 1 tent.

Camp[83.0/1767] : wet, also a puesto at (-38.51828, -70.98893). When I fill some water at stream, 2 dogs running out and barking at me, they follow/chase me until km83.3, I'm not sure they are curious, or aggressive.

Some puesto at west shore of lake. So i camped on a little hill at (-38.52293, -70.99734). Good location for privacy and views but no wind protection, also not easy to find a spot because of rocky ground.

Km86.8 : dirt road start.

Because it is a crazy windy day, so i decided stay in valley by {12-N}+{12-P}, not climb up to plateau by RR.

Dirt road walking 2km {12-N} then join {12-P}. {12-P} leads you all the way to Liucura. First 400m of {12-P} is dirt road, leads you to puesto[0.4/1526], then the road damaged becomes a trail, until puesto[1.9/1415].

Water {12-P} [1.7/1400] : last good water until Liucura.

Puesto[1.9/1415] : dirt road start again. Road go through a beautiful valley. You can look at other side of valley, some landslide trail there.

Km5.0 : Left side, Volcán Batea Mahuida!

Km10 : a beautiful meadow, horse trail start.

Water[11.7/1289] : look clear, but I'm not sure is it flowing from cows and horse meadow.

Puesto[12.1/1239] : dirt road start again, til Liucura.

Shop[104.1/1036] : chocolate, biscuits, chips, drinks and ice cream, not much for resupply, but they make hot sandwiches and breakfast, yummy yummy!!!! They also do "printing", if you need some documents in paper.

Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.

* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''

Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
The river crossings before Laguna Marinanqui were not too difficult except for the second one, which whas up to my crotch (I'm 1.90 meters) and fast flowing.
Plenty of water around. Only took more than half a litre once when crossing the plateau and that wasn't needed. Days were generally hot.
Met few people in the puestos but the ones I met were all friendly.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday

* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''

Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.

Climb to the pass was steep, pass was easy, no issues with snow. Beautiful views on both sides. Going down on some patches of snow you could see and/or hear the water flowing below. Might become tricky in the next days to walk over so a little caution is recommended. Met Maxi and his father down below at his puesto. Super friendly! Continued my way to camp at laguna Escondida (North side).

Next day a bit iffy weather (as expected) cloudy, windy and a bit of rain. Decided to do a short one and camped at laguna Verde. Really good camping spots on the option 12L, at the end of the lake. And I could cross here the next day to join RR, there where some planks over the small stream.

This last day I really enjoyed! Walking the plateau and the ridgeline was amazing. Perfect weather also. For sure worth it, easy to follow trail and all the CC options are 90% horse trails which are good to spot.

Coming close to Liucura, it didn't feel good to me to climb those fences. Guess that's just a personal thing. There was a lot of cattle, fences looked new, so I decided to not climb over them and annoy the locals. Just followed the trail down to end up at the main road, take a left to Liucara. Maybe 1km extra in total.

Stayed at Normita, couple of shops to resupply all the basics.

All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''

To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).

It is better to do your shopping in Liucura beforehand, the market and supermarkets are right next to the terminal. There are also some smaller supermarkets in Lonquimay. You are sure to get everything you need there.

Crossing the pass at KM 57 was very strenuous and steep. There was still snow, which you could either hike around or through. The descent on the other side was very steep. It took two hours. You can camp well on both sides, even at the top if necessary, but it is very windy.

From kilometre 26 north of the Marinanqui lagoon, we had to cross the river several times. We had some difficulties. The water was up to our hips. We couldn't have coped with any more water. The lake is beautiful, I would rather camp at the southern end as it is rather muddy and full of mosquitoes in the north. We fled from them.

It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.

* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : (1) snow on pass at km 68 ( easy to walk on it ) / (2) from km 58,4 to km 54,9 : at this point we didn't follow the RR and went on the right side to reach the ridgeline and then continue on it - the plateau still had a lot of snow but we found it was not a problem to find our own safe way / (3) we didn't do the last pass between km 15,8 and km 9,5 because it has snowed in the night and the mountain was still covered by a thick layer of snow

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : (1) at 45,5 km we crossed in the morning and the current was strong but we are used to river crossings so this one was easily passable for us / (2) Laguna Marinanqui between km 35,4 and km 33,9 : was higher than usual and therefore the trail was under water, we walked in the lake from time to time and it was sometimes up until our thighs / (3) the river between km 33,9 and km 31,3 is really high and need multiple crossings that sometimes goes up until the waist with a strong current, we had to improvise and do some bushbahing to find places where it was crossable

- Weather : Sunny, snowy, cloudy, ( overall really good weather but can be cold )

- Option roads : variant P + Q : easy track, it's a dirt road, there is water on the track / variant H : to avoid the dogs / option 1 : to avoid the snow on the pass, the trail is easy and beautiful

- Warning : river crossings between km 33,8 and km 31,3 was really hard but manageable if you have skills and not too small

- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m

* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''

We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.

Heading NOBO the small pass after laguna verde is fine. Little snow but not bad. Next pass is a bit tough, lots of snow walking and lots of risky parts where there are hidden rivers/water ways under the snow and where cliffs of snow had broken off but we managed by being careful and taking time to judge. RR-CC-A {12} [68.1/68.5+2.9] is not passable we went on the route to the left of it. Scary but fine, you have to make your own route since it’s completely snowed over. Downhill is fine, snow is only on the south face of the mountain. Next day we skipped the pass and did a plateau crossing based on advice from a local, it was lovely, the trail is east to follow most of the way then getting across the plateau you can take any possible direction, no wrong way and it connects to the 12-03c. Coming down on though there are two tracks at 12-03c marker. OH-TL-I {12-03A} [0.9+3.4] is not a route. At least not now. It’s basically a river gorge and it’s not possible unless you can surf down waterfalls, so we scaled up almost completely vertical to meet the CC route that runs parallel. Might be possible when there is less snow melt though. The CC route we took was almost a completely verticals decent for 800 meters and I must say a bit terrifying. Clambering down on your butt/downhill rock climbing is not the hard part but if you are not careful and you don’t judge your path every few meters you can find yourself looking down a minimum 30-200 meter drop, so it’s mentally scary not knowing if you will get to the bottom. But we did. I would not advise it, instead I’d advise continuing on 12-03 past the lakes back to the normal route. Took us almost 3 hours of being very careful though. We then got to the first river. Many locals we met before told us the only way to ranquil is the balsa, but we didn’t fully understand what they meant till we got to the river. They meant Bulsa Rahue which is on the way to lonquimay. The first main crossing at Ford {12} [45.4/1039] is very deep and very fast. For us as beginners a big no go, but I honestly think for advanced that would be tough as well if not only very dangerous. We then moved back to lonquimay where for the first part of the trail the river had flowed over so much that there was no trail but then eventually the trail gains significant elevation over the river and it’s fine. We asked others we ran into on the way and they confirmed that it’s too early to pass the rivers, but again depends on the hiker I’m sure.

Comment Jan Dudeck December 2023: The best route to ascent from the Plateau is the trail in the South-West of the Plateau. That's the trail on which the horses are probably moved up and down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 the normal route up and down the Plateau will be OH-TL-V {12-03} [0.0+14.4]. I have cleaned up the routes on the North-Western edge of the Plateau. These exploration routes are best taken up and not down. Starting with the Track Files 2024 these exploration options are {12-03A}, {12-03B} and {12-03C} and all classified as Exploration Routes. There pieces of trails visible on satellite images but these trail disappear into a forest and it is unclear who maintained these routes are and if these are part of an alternative access to the Plateau.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''

On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
Started early the next day with 12-P until 12-R. This way we avoided to climb any fence. There are plenty of paths going upward so we ended up not following the one from the tracks but something that joined the top quite directly. Then we enjoyed our walk on the ridge. We continued for a while and camped at Laguna Escondida. The marked point is in the wood, a bit far away from the water but wind protected. We decided to go much closer to the water and met our two first GPT hikers going southbound on the trail!

The next day we took 12-H to avoid the aggressive dogs and then sticked to the RR until Camp {12} [51.6/1293]. The descent in the forest (RR-CC-A {12} [52.3/52.8+2.2]) was a bit painful as it is steep and without path. Following the OSM route is not better.

Day 3, we followed the RR until Laguna Marinanqui (Lake, Camp {12} [33.9/1281]) where we camped. Then we met Reyes, a local from Peluhue who was waiting a group of "gringo" since the previous day. We spent the night here with him, tasting our first cooked pinones.

On day 4, we hiked to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos). All the fords of Rio Pulul were easy. On the trail we crossed a group of horseriders (Reyes' gringo) that got lost in the mountains and were on their way to the lake. Then we had our first pinata moment : we found an araucania and hit a ball with a branch for a rain of pinones. At the bayos, we met two persons preparing an asado for the group of riders and an other group of people just staying for a bath. Both pools are great, the second one (the smallest and a bit more down) is a bit warmer. We got invited and fed by the riders (smoked cerdo, tortillas al rescaldo, goat asado...)! They eventually left and we were alone in the bayos for the night.

On Day 5, we hiked until the junction with GPT11 but without taking options 1 or 2 following the advices of the previous hikers. Then we directly continued to GPT11.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !

* '''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''

Combined 10+11+12, continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one, so more heat would have been nice, but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.

Day2
Late start but great trail from the Banos to the marshy flats. I met Rosè from the puesto right at the beginning of the flats, she was very easy to get along with and had a good sense of humor. I would recommend looking for her if you were in need of help. She also helped show me how to avoid the marsh by sticking slightly high on the side of the hill, there was a little bit of a trail. The next plateau up was forgettable, accidentally walked along variant A for too long before dropping down to the RR. The RR is much faster than the side hill that hops from one puesto to the next on variant A. The rest of the way to Laguna Marinanque was enjoyable, definitely leave your sandals on at the bottom for the multiple river crossings.
At this time of year Marinanque was still boggy but caused no problem's. However, I would be careful at the Northside not to get stuck in the bog, it looked very deep. We slept at the abandoned puesto 37.7 (No Water).

Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.

Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8 [Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them or you could descend back down the hill and go far left.
Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J, I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.

Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge, instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura [Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired.
We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics - but no canister fuel obviously.
The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.
In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).

Notes:

-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.

-The piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!

-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.

-Many of the trails this time of year were "dirt-dust" but on the bright side most bogs were avoidable.

-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.

-Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.

- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.

* '''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''

I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.

I went on to camp at the Banos Coyucos, easily my favorite hot springs so far. Perfect temperature, clean, but still felt natural. There were two groups of Chilean hikers there, all super friendly and generous.

The next day of walking through the valleys was beautiful and pretty fast. A bit before the big climb I had my first unpleasant encounter, with a group heading down the road by ATV. The leader stopped and asked if I had authorization to hike there, I said that I didn't know that I needed it. He seemed to think that was obviously a lie. He became somewhat friendly once I explained my plans and after discovering that I was foreign. He gave me some direction advice then set off. In hindsight I figure he must have been a landowner. I did see quite a few littered beer cans afterwords, maybe he was trying to prevent that.

The steep climb was tough, and I ended up camping pretty late up top. In terms of water I only saw a few muddy puddles though I didn't look very hard. There were a few ponds the next morning just over the hill.

The rest of the section was easier than I expected, and not so interesting to me. I should have carried more water on the final 20km. If you want to skip the barbed wire fences you'd have to take variant R at the end of the ridge walk. I thought I could skip them with variant S but most of them were before the turnoff so I ended up following the regular route the whole way. Thankfully they were solid and pretty easy to climb.

No luck hitching out of Liucura so I spent the night. There were no buses on Sunday but someone at my hostel gave me a ride to Lonquimay the next day. If you're continuing on then Liucura could work for a basic resupply, but I'm planning on relaxing a bit then skipping ahead. See busesbiobio.cl for the bus schedule out of Lonquimay.

I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.

* '''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''

We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The first day the path was easy to find most of the time and the views were great. The canyon to Laguna Marinanqui is very beautiful. We camped after the last rivercrossing before the Laguna.

To path around the Laguna involved some bushbashing and muddy ground.
Until the CC ascent the path was good. The ascent itself is pretty tiring. We could not find water at the point indicated by Véronica so we continued until the first small Laguna on the plateau. That was a great spot to camp and the Laguna has clear water.

The following part is not hard to navigate and continues with spectacular views.
Ascending the next hill at appr. km 67 we followed a good animal path on towards the west of the hill (instead of the CC part of the RR), next to an accesible creek.
Easy trails the rest of the day. We camped at the water waypoint [78.4/1775] between Laguna Escondida and Laguna verde.

The next part is great and easy until towards the end of the ridge after the last ascent, where the path finding gets harder with some bush bashing parts. On the last kilometers we descended until the main road to avoid climbing barbed wire fences.
The shopowner of the resupply in Liucura offered us to camp in his garden.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.

* '''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''

Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura

Absolutely beautiful section. Really loved the cross-country bits on high plateaus and ridges, amazing views. I did not have any navigation issues. I met no one 4 days in a row.

I connected GPT11 Option 2 with GPT12, so I missed the Pelehue hot springs. I did find a good creek at the "water" waypoint at 15.9 km, not dry like what Veronika and Jo found last year. I really enjoyed the camp at Baños Coyucos in an araucaria forest, and the hot springs there were great too! Perfect temperature, and not as dirty as I thought they might be.

Lots of boggy cow pastures along RR-TL-V {12} [25.6+07], had trouble finding any sort of trail there. Enjoyed the trail along Río Pulul in the canyon with all the fords. All the river crossings were easy, and I found many lovely potential camp spots on that stretch.

Just north of Laguna Marinanqui (where you have the option to take 12-C), there is a large marsh to contour like others have mentioned. I managed to cross without getting all muddy by closely following the regular route.
The trail kind of disappears after the junction with 12-E, but following the GPS it's not too hard to reach the base of the big CC climb to the high plateau. This climb is steep, but not dangerous - you climb on grass and dirt (no scree). There was no water at the "Water ?" waypoint, but I found a hidden spring nearby at S 38° 21.247', W 071° 04.140'. There are also shallow lagunas up on the plateau you could get water from. After the passes coming downhill into the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, the three campsites in a row there were quite waterlogged from snowmelt. The trail was a river in a couple places there too. Lots of squishy walking, wouldn't be ideal to camp there right now.

The next CC stretch after the Extortioner valley is awesome on a rounded ridgetop. There is a nice meadow and good water source shortly before reaching the next pass. From this pass all the way to Maximiliano's puesto is a good horse trail, not cross-country.

After the "water" waypoint at 87.6 km, after Laguna Verde, there is no more water until Liucura, so I filled up in order to dry camp on the ridge further along. All the subsequent CC stretches until Liucura have paths running along most of them, makes walking easier :) The final ridge walk starting at km 95.3 is fantastic, and there's lots of sheltered areas up there too where you could camp if you have enough water.

I followed the regular route all the way to Liucura (ended up climbing over 4 different barbed wire fences once I was off the ridge). Hitched into Lonquimay and will be skipping down to Section 16.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.

We escaped to Ranquil in the south to resupply, and got back three weeks later, taking the afternoon bus from Lonquimay (mon-wed-fri, bus early the morning and in the afternoon). Slept in the refugio in the valley east of Ranquil. The road between Ranquil and this eastern valley is almost fully MR instead of TL.

Continued RR until the Pehuenche Extortioner valley, but took optionals 12-H and 12-5 to arrive at Pehuenco in time to take the bus Friday morning at 08:00 (also mon-wed-fri) to make sure we made it to our plane in Puerto Montt on Sunday. We skipped Laguna Escondida and Laguna Verde with pain in our hearts :(

We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)

* '''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''

Regular Hiking Path :
- There are a lot of Araucaria trees. I managed to save 2 days of food just by harvesting piñones on the floor following the path. I would recommend to not rely on it because it depends on the period, but there was plenty.

- the path after Laguna Marinanqui wasn't easy to follow because it was like a swamp but once I manage to cross this humid part it was all good

- Camp on Ford {12} [32.6/1299] (Rio Pulul), great place with lot of space, grass, dry wood, almost no wind when I camped there, I really appreciated this place

- I did the multiple fords without removing my water shoes because there are close and it worth it

- Camp {12} [17.0/1794] : I had to stay one day there due to raining conditions. Looking at the places after, it's to my mind the last place to camp before starting going uphill, it would be too windy and too cold to camp farther. During the rainy day the temperature dropped to less than 10° I think, I had to stay in my duvet. And during the night I got ice on my tent, it wasn't extreme but it was good to be well equipped.

- Option 11-02 and 11-02B to reach back the regular route was the best part I did of my entire trek, with a condor flying 10-15m above me, spectacular landscapes, ... I really recommend it but only in stable good conditions because it was really really windy, and going northbound otherwise 11-02B would be very demanding because of the sand.

- the hot spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] and more generally the place with vapors and boiling water at some places and many condors flying around you is very impressive

- Nobo : Demanding clampering, in good weather only : everything is in the title and the other commentaries well describe it. I hadn't felt really in danger following the track but I was much tense and aware of everything. It's definitely not a good idea to be there not in good conditions. And you need to have time to do it in one time, there is no place adapted to camp until the pass {11} [27.6/2174] and event just after it's still much wind, and at some point the earth/sand soil make you hike very slowly. I thank the people who wants through before me, their tracks were much helpful to see the way and to not slip in the sand. Except these points the place is beautiful and I appreciated it a lot in the continuity of the part before.

Option 12-02 :

- 11-05G : the road from Lonquimay start with concrete and become gravel at a certain point, but lot of people use it and without hitchhiking many proposed me to take me

- transition 11-05G to 12-02 : the road leading to the ferry is really smaller than the main one, I missed it because I wasn't enough attentive to that

- Ferry : the indicated opening time are : 8:30-17:30 from Monday to Friday, 8:00-10:00/16:00-18:00 on saturday ; I arrived there at 13:30 on the Monday and there was nobody to move it, fishermen told me to wait for a car but they seem to say there should be one until 1 or 2 hours so I crossed the river going up, water reached my hips and I arrived in a farmer property, people were very friendly, but should I do it again I would cross going down (easier to reach + no problem with entering a property)

- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there

* '''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''

Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
Tábanos were better than expected, it was pretty windy. We also brought a fly swatter. It was very effective for killing those who sticked around during breaks, and gave a lot of satisfaction

We took the alternative route to the east right out of Liucura due to the notes of other people. Shortly after, we saw a path climbing the mountain, and took that. Big mistake - the path disappeared quickly and left us to climb steeply through dense bamboo. We learned the lesson of staying close to the route, and this payed off. Often, when the route is marked as CC, a path exists that follows the route closely.
On one of the CC sections we met a man with his animals, who wanted to know what we were doing. He said that we needed a permission from someone in Liucura to be there, and that many people came by and disturbed the animals. When we apologized and said we didn't know and that we'd go on to Laguna Verde he didn't pursue the subject and seemed friendly enough.
We ended up camping on the beach by Laguna Escondida.
On the descent from there to the Pehuenche Extortioner valley we passed a puesto not marked on the GPS. It seemed empty, and the gravel road was right next to it. There were some very aggressive dogs that we gave a shock, though, they quickly surrounded us. The owner got them calmed down a bit, but one of them to still took a bite of my sleeping mat on the bottom of my bag while we were calmly talking to the owner.
After the Pehuenche Extortioner valley you climb a pretty tall mountain pass to an amazing high plain. The descent from here is, as others have written, very steep, not too difficult but definitely better down than up. From there you have a very nice easy trail with good views almost all the way to Laguna Marinanqui, but at the river crossing and every time there is a puesto of trail the trail diverges, and you often have to follow the less obvious trail, so it pays off to look at the GPS often.
After Laguna Marinanqui we just kept our wading shoes on for the six river crossings, it worked very well. None of the crossings were difficult in any way.
We camped at the Coyuco hot springs. It's a nice enough camp site with a little bench and table under the Aucaria trees, but not too many big sites for the tent. The hot springs are a little bellow, covered by some planks. They are pretty dirty but a perfect temperature, no views either.

The last big ascent nearing the Argentine border was amazing and should definitely not be skipped unless the weather is bad! There is a small CC section, but most of the way through the pass there is a nice trail - stick to the route and you will find it! It lasts all the way to the gravel road to Ranquil. There is a boarder post, and a pretty flat grassy area where it would be possible to camp on the Argentinian side of the border, next to a stream. In general, plenty of water all the way to the second hot springs. From there, nothing until you reach the river in the bottom. The hot springs are in an amazing area, and would be a beautiful campsite with great views, bit requires clear and calm water. We didn't see the hot springs ourselves, but we met some Chilean tourists who liked them.

Water:
Generally, water is plentiful, but with some comments. We started from Liucura on midday on a very hot day, and having read about plentiful water we brought a liter each. However, there was nothing until the first waypoint, which we couldn't reach, so we ended up going down to the river in the eastern valley and camping there.
Furthermore, on the ascent from the Pehuenche Extortioner valley where there are three campsites on a row, the first didn't have water and the second only very little.
On the high plain where it's marked water? there was water, but very still and dirty. Would only drink it if very desperate. Shortly after joining the path after the descent there are very nice streams.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between

* '''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''

After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections

It was love at first sight! I was so thrilled to escape the exposed terrain of the north and come down here to this beautiful part of the country, where you can enjoy the nice shade from the Arucania trees. Got the bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 14:00 and started my trip on the optional route east of the RR to avoid previously mentioned barbed wire fence.
Later I climbed up to the mountain ridge and followed the RR.

After my first night I was woken up by the sound of a bunch of cows running around my tent, and a stuck my head out to find a Pehuenche man on a horse wearing a balaclava, looking at me. Was very surprised at first but he was a nice guy who was just curious about me. We took some photos of each other and I got to ride around on his horse.
I general I found water to be plenty, the weather good and the trail in good condition. There are although some very steep sections every now and then where you have to be careful. I was also hit by a hail storm during a mountain pass but luckily it quickly passed.

At laguna Marinanqui towards the end of the section I met a group of Chileans from Victoria who were out on a weekend fishing trip. We drank a few beers together while catching some salmon in the Laguna and after i joined on the walk back to Ranquil. We took GPT option 1 to skip the nothern hump. And on arrival at Ranquil they gave me a ride back to Lonquimay. Great fun!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''

Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.

* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''

At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.

* '''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''

Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.

* '''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''

Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.

* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).

* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''

We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
All walked trails were in good condition and CC sections pretty easy to navigate. In the sadle of section 11, because of strong wind, poor visibility and fresh snow and ice we were forced to take optional to the valley. There is a big snowfield, I don't recomend sliding on it all the way. It the lower parts there were big holes into the stream.
From Ranquil we took optional #002 because we didn't want to climb back up. Uphill is more a minor road, downhill nice trail.
After a laguna we took a optional to the Pass 2180 and road around the Pehuenche Extortioner. We needed to get down from elevation ASAP bacause of wind. We passed puesto early in the morning and no one was around. After rainy day everything above 2000m was white. We took trail to pass 1920m which was just with bit of fresh snow and then took minor road #001 down to valley. So I have no idea about the rest of the trail.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.

* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.

We liked: The quickly chang landscape and its huge variety, beautiful cinematic views, funny animals, that water was always available, bathing in the rivers, beautifully blooming plants.

We did not like so much: The problems we encountered due to navigation mistakes, the hailstorm on the mountain ridge, beercans that people drop on the paths.

We bluntly hated: The amount of horse flies. In the northern part we were not able to make one step without having at least five buzzing arround our faces. This army of blood suckers was sent by a source of pure evil to annoy hikers.

The following is a chronological accumulation of all our observations made in the last 11 days. Note for navigation difficulties that we walked northbound.

- The most southern CC part direclty north of Liucura is now bordered by fences. You have to follow the path and then go left through a gate. The gate on the western fence is some 80m further south than you would expect. It was locked and we had to carefully (barbed wire) climb over it. It might be a lot easier to take the optional route in the east to get up the ridge.

-We were unable to find and follow the path at S38°24.881' W71°00.281' down to the valley. We endet up on a path a little further south. However, this path starts to lead further and further south, so that at some point we startet to ge back to the original path through the woods, which did cost several hours.

- Getting up the mountain at S38°24.450 W71°01.871' we startet ca 300m further north than indicated by the CC route due to fences and rivercrossing opportunities in the valley. (We thought CC means come up with your own route anyway.) At ca 1720m of altitude, still 300m north of the indicated route we found a good looking path leading up the mountain and followed it. At its end we assumed it would not be a bad idea to continue from here on in north west direction up the mountain. We now know it was a very bad idea. We ended up in a very uncomfortable and seriously dangerous climbing situation in which we really did not want to be. So our advice: stick to the route here!

- The Ford-125 (S38°20.908 W71°09.294') looks impassable right now. You can avoid it by using an improvised bridge about 120m further west.

- At roughly S38°17.091' W71°01.354' the path broke away into a very steep descent. It is passable, but also slippery and includes a certain risk of which you should be aware.

- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

2023- 2023-Dec / Yannick & Nolwenn

Accomodation : in Troyo there are some cabanas, just ask in the little shops

- Resupply : big supermarket in Lonquemay / at the end of section 12, 30km down the road there is a village ' Troyo' where there a few small shops where you can find resupply

------------------
Ranquil - no shop but there are families who sold us sopaipillas

Lonquimay - Supermercado Espinoza next to the bus stop has most things. A little shop on the left hand shortly after the bus terminal when walking from the bus terminal towards the center has gas. The shop has different air mattresses, clothes and some outdoorsy things in the windows. There's also a ferretería that might have. Several accommodation options.

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*Ferry Option 02: no service on weekends (March 2024), no timetable at the ferry port

*To Liucura
Updated Jan 2022:

Bus from Temuco to Liucura (goes all the way to Icalma) Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 7:30am (+ 15:55?), 5 hours of travel. Leaves Liucura at the bus terminal next to COPEC at 12.
Also busses from Lonquimay to Liucura Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15 and Tuesday+Thursday at 14

Bus from Temuco to Lonquimay every day - Monday-Saturday 15:55, Sunday 17:30
There may even be busses from Santiago to Lonquimay

*Ranquil
Updated 2022, Jan
Bus from Ranquil to Lonquimay (on Mon, Wed and Fri at 7:30am from the village

Bus from Lonquimay to Ranquil Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 15:00 - bus terminal next to COPEC
Buses to Troyo leave every day and can drop you off at the crossing to Ranquil, about 30-40 km, but hitching might still be difficult from here

*If skipping section 13-15:
We went from Pucón to Temuco, but it seems to be the long way around. It might be worth it to ask around in Pucón whether there is a rural bus to Curacautin, and from there to Lonquimay, as that seems way faster on the map - alternatively it could be possible hitching this route.

*Lonquimay

March 2024:
Lonquimay to Icalma Mo, We, Fr at 12:00 and 19:30. Bus company Erbuc, 3200 Peso. 2h ride.

Update 2022, Feb

Bus from Santiago - Terminal Sur to Lonquimay leaving at 21:40 and arriving around 8:00

Company : Jet Sur

$26.000 for semi-cama

Commentaries : really comfortable, nice and professional people, USB-plugs, I took it on Sunday night, it was the only one on Sunday, I don't know if there are some on the other days

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT12 - Río Rahue]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664133.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Araucarias on GPT12]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664142.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664125.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664136.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_6_Guallali_108664138.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

Greater Patagonian Trail track files

2025-02-03T16:37:11Z

UnChamoisEgaré: /* List of requests */

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]
The track files of the [[Greater Patagonian Trail]] are provided on personal request by [[user:Jandudeck|the author]] free of charge but not unconditionally. Read in the Hiker's Manual chapter '''1.15 Terms and Conditions for Using the Hiker’s Manual and the Trail Files''' to review these conditions and to understand why these conditions were put in place.

GPT Hikers's Manual: http://bit.ly/GPTmanual

==Create an account in Wikiexplora (compulsory)==
[[File:create account wikiexplora.png|frame|Six (very standard) steps to create an account in Wikiexplora]]
To request the files you must first [http://wikiexplora.com/index.php?title=Especial:Entrar&type=signup create a Wikiexplora account]. It really takes less than a minute. The form is in spanish, but it's very standard and simple:
#User name
#Password
#Confirm password
#Email. Not compulsory but highly recommended to give us the chance to reach you. Wikiexplora has sent only '''one''' non personal email in 13 years.
#Real name (optional)
#On the final line type '''wikiexplora''', all in lower case

==List of requests==


Please type your name (or your new Wikiexplora user name or alias) and explain your plan for the GPT that requires the GPT Track Files. Put yourself on top of the list.

Don't forget to send the email after adding yourself to the list as described in the GPT Hikers' Manual (1.15.7 Access to the GPT Track Files).

*'''UnChamoisEgaré'''* Hi Jan. I already had the chance to walk a part of the GPT 3 years ago alone (Adrien Kunzli) and this time I would like to do it with my 2 brothers for two months. We are preparing a little late but we have all the equipment and are in Valparaiso and we would like to start as soon as possible. I hope this is possible, thank you very much! Let me know :)

*'''Diego Raffaeli'''* Hi Jan. I've been reviewing the GPT Hikers manual in order to planning a trail from Lago Puelo (Arg) to Cochamó (Chi). I would really appreciate if you can share the tracking files with me. Thanks in advance.

*'''Sprocky.''' Hi Jan. I've been studying the GPT hikers manual for some years now with an eye on exploring as much of the route as possible over the next two summer seasons. Keen to be a part of the GPT community and give feedback. I would really appreciate the track files to help me continue with route planning this year. Many thanks for compiling such a detailed resource. Cheers

*'''SteveBehaeghel.''' Hi Jan en Meylin, thx for the recent update on the GPT files. We are currently in Pucon with our 3 kids (3ys, 6ys and 9ys). The upcoming 3 months we will continue to revisit or explore certain GPT sections on small adventures of maximum 5 days. We will trek parts of, and including optional routes, from GPT14-GPT16-GPT19-GPT21-GPT22-GPT30-GPT33-GPT35-GPT37. I will probably do some small uptdates on the FB group, but the wikiexplora pages I will update after our longer trip in the second half of 2025. Thx for all helpfull information.

*'''Martin M.''' Hi Jan, I would like to explore some part of the GPT on foot, starting from GPT32. I only have a few weeks, so it will be just a small taste of what GPT is. Therefore having access to the track files would greatly help. Thanks a lot for all the effort you put into it.

*'''7yson''' Hello, Jan. Thanks for this incredible resource. What an amazing effort that you and your community here have made. Happy to be a part of it. I'll be in the Esquel area in late Feb and am studying the main route for sections to hike in March, northbound likely. Thanks for considering me for access to the track files.

*'''Daniela Montecinos''' Hi Jan! I found GPT while searching for information on packraft routes in Patagonia. Your work is wonderful! I am interested in doing some of GPT's packraft routes and being able to contribute updated information on them. Thank you so much for your work and for sharing it!

*'''Mochilaosabatico''' Hi Jan. Tks for all information about GPT. My husband and I have just finished GPT 6 (Descabezado Grande) and we want to hike sectors 7 and 8. I would appreciate receiving the tracklogs for GPTs 7 and 8. Tks a lot!

*'''Moonshine''' Hi Jan. I have been loving the in depth guide for the GPT. It has been an incredible resource for this upcoming trip. Thank you so much for all you have done. My friend and I are planning on spending a month in March hiking along this trail. We have yet to decide exactly where along GPT06-GPT22. We are hoping we love it so much that next year we will come back with some packrafting knowledge and do more for a longer period of time. We love being in the backcountry, and connecting with local communities. This truly appeals to us in every regard. Excited for this adventure!

*'''Tom Venegas''' Thank you all for the fantastic work in gathering information and building this community! I’ve hiked in the Radal, Lircay, Antuco, Cochamó, and recently I’ve been exploring more of Aysén—specifically Cerro Castillo and Patagonia National Park. I’m really excited to check out Torres del Avellano and the Pioneros Road in Aysén next. Looking forward to connecting with other hikers and sharing experiences to be part of this project!

*'''Benoît''' Hi Jan, thank you for the incredible work you've done with the hiker's manual, it's an invaluable resource ! I started the GPT from Santiago in 2018 (sections 01 to 08), and I would like to continue from the Antuco Volcano and go south. Thanks again for all your work!

*'''einat shvartz''' Hello. I'm einat, i'm 26, i'm arriving solo to patagonia this January (2025), for about 2-3 months. I wish to hike the GPT, or maybe just some sections of it. I am absolutly love being in untouched nature and also meeting authentic people from all around the world. Hiking some of the GPT sounds incredible. I'm experienced with medium-long hikes (several days to 1-2 weeks top), but 0 experience with packrafting. There for I wish, at this point, to do only sections that are duable by foot (probably the more northen parts of GPT). And probably not a lot of difficult parts, at least in the begining, to see how i adapt to this new land, and to the whole thru-hiking experience. I hope that the track files will help me build and plan my own customize trail, and that i will be blessed to expirience some of it.

*'''jhfelner''' Hello. I plan on hiking and maybe packrafting numerous sections of the GPT over the next few years starting with parts of GPT around Section 6 this year. Experienced with remote mountain terrain. Would appreciate the track files for further planning.

*'''Tomek Z''' Hi, I´m from Poland. Right now on the one-year hitchhiking trip through South America. But part of my plan was always hiking some part of Andes. This idea of GPT really looks nice. I am a student mountain guide in Poland,and so far my bigest hike was from Zakopane to Budapest aprox. 350km, 16 days. Now I would love to try someting more challenging. I want to do a part from Trapa Trapa to Santaiago. I speak spanish quite well and curently I am working in a hostel in El Chalten. :) I plan to start a hike in the middle of February.

*'''Matthias Keil''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.

*'''Jordan Porter''' Hello. I plan to solo hike and packraft the Gpt starting December 2025 and hiking until April 2026. I spent three months backpacking and exploring Chile and Argentina last Jan-March so I have a decent idea of what to expect weather/transportation/etc. Your hikers guide has been a great resource so far! Looking forward to being in touch.

*'''Ben McLuckie''' Hi Jan, along with my spouse, we want to spend 3 months hiking from PN Hornopirén north to Santiago starting in March. I am currently reading your 2024 Hikers Manual. For 3 months in 2019 we traveled from Dientes de Navarino to El Chaltén and for another 3 months in 2024 traveled from El Chaltén to Valdivia by mountain biking, trekking and connecting ferries. We are most definately "immersion hikers" and not mileage-focused thru-hikers (no judging here).

*'''Fernanda Rodriguez''' Hi Jan, I am visiting Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia for one month. I am interested in doing the GPT 37 to GPT 40. I've been all of 2024 reading your Hikers Manual. I feel so grateful for such a beautiful contribution you have made to this, my country :)

*'''Chloe Derrien''' Hi Jan, with my partner, we would like to go from Ushuaïa up to Peru using some GPT sections. We would like to start end of february. Thank you for the GPT hiking manual, it is a huge help and source of informations.

*'''DavidVidal"" Hola, de a poco he ido haciendo trayectos de varios días por la cordillera, algunos de estos se unen también a ciertas secciones del GPT. Me interesa tener estos tracks para planificar mejor mis salidas. Agradecido de tu trabajo y prolijidad en esta ruta. Leí hace un tiempo el manual, acepto las condiciones claramente.

*'''Jason''' Hi Jan. I'm currently looking into hiking some sections of the GPT in 2025/2026 and would greatly appreciate the track files to aid in planning. I've read the introduction and agree to the terms and conditions. Thank you for all that you do.

*'''Ben Ram''' Hi Jan, I am researching hiking sections of the GPT in the Chilean Lake District with my partner in late 2025 to early 2026. It would be really great to have access to your GPS Files for this. I have read the Terms and Conditions and agree to them. Cheers.

*'''Ana''' Hi Jan, I’m looking into hiking sections of the GPT in late 2025 to early 2026. As part of my planning, I’d love to have a look at the GPS files to decide on sections. Thanks so much for all of the work you’ve put into this, the hikers manual is particularly useful.

*'''EmilieV''' Hi Jan, I am planning to cross Chile from Antofagasta to Ushuaia by foot and bus and I would like to incorporate some of the GPT sections in my adventure. The sections in question are 6 to 12 SOBO and then skipping over some of the middle sections to hop back on it probably after section 32 to finish at 40. I am still figuring out if I want to add a section or two from the southern part of the GPT and would like to access to GPS files to finish my preparation. The hikers manuel and the unbounded documentary were so helpful not only regarding the "trail" but also understanding the different dynamics of the local population, so interesting!

*'''pointatadventure''' Hi Jan, a huge thank you to this wonderful community! I came across GPT after an extensive internet search. As an avid adventurer, I am planning a trip to Patagonia next year to hike and packraft. I have read and of course accepted the terms and conditions. It would be fantastic if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Steve Hawkins''' Hello Jan and thank you for considering me for the GPT track files. I have read all terms and conditions, and I agree to comply. I also agree to contribute to the community. I am a "soon-to-be" retiree and have backpacked extensively in the United States. I would like to hike sections of the GPT over several years in 60–90-day increments beginning in Winter 2025-2026. I am beginning the research process for the first section hike in Patagonia and would love the assistance of the track files. Thank you for your consideration.

*'''Matias Federici.'''Hi Jan, I am going to do S14-15-16-17 next week, dont have much time for preparations because I was just noticed in my work that i have the vacations abiable, Been years reading About de GPT, this is the first time I have the money and time to try to do some, Im realy looking foward to this, thank you for the incredible job you started, best regards from argentina!

Use the format:
*'''Michael G.''' Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections 1 to 22 NoBo of the GPT from early March 2025, beginning in El Chaltén. I would like to thank you for the selfless work you did on making the GPT what it is. I'd be grateful if you could provide the GPS files for my project.

*'''Al and Bee''' Hi Jan, we are planning on hiking parts of the GPT starting in early January 2025, probably beginning in El Chaltén and hiking north. Thank you for the incredible Hikers Manual on the GPT. The GPS files would be extremely helpful for our endeavor.

*'''Juergen''' Hi Jan, My name is Jürgen Wolf. First of all, I want to thank you for the Greater Patagonia Trail project. I'm planning to some chapters in February, probably from stage 21 in northern direction. I'm currently in the process of studying the manual and creating a plan for myself, for which the GPS files would be helpful

*'''Pierre-Marie''' Hi Jan, I have been hiking since 27/11 from Santiago to El Chalten. Thank you for your work and efforts to keep this trail alive.

*'''Dustin''' Hi Jan, I am heading down to Patagonia this summer and planning to explore some of the packrafting sections. I'm planning to start exploring out of Coyhaique in early January. It is really wonderful that you are putting together a resource like this for an area you love. Your passion really comes through in the guide. Thank you so much for all that you do.

*'''Miguel''' Hi Jan, my name is Miguel Rodríguez Letelier, i live in Chile, love hiking and the mountains. I am planning to hike the GPT in the summer. Thank you for all the work and passion you put in this.

*'''Henri''' Hi Jan, let me first say how thrilled I am that the GPT guide exists and that there are all these incredible resources available for free all in the name of hiking! I am looking at the possibility of hiking a section of the GPT this coming February. I have my selection narrowed down to a few different sections but I am still a little indecisive. I will only have about a month to hike the sections of the GPT until I need to go home. I am hoping to get ahold of the Track Files so that I could better understand the scope of what I might be embarking. I've made myself a spread sheet showing every section of the trail from GPT 001 through GPT 040 where I include data and details to more easily narrow down my decision, and with this I feel that I am ready to get into the fine details of planning a relatively short hike on the GPT (3 weeks or a month).

*'''Graham''' Hello Jan, My name is Graham Hall. I am very interested in hiking the GPT between December and February of 2025. I am beginning my planning process, and I would love your insight. I will say, this is somewhat new to me, not in the outdoor sense, but in perspective. I have worked as a backcountry guide leading canoe trips for several years, but thru-hiking is newer for me at least in the packing sense -although I have been doing some smaller trips. I am fluent in spanish and confident in my abilities in the backcountry, specifically in outfitting and planning so I am excited about getting my hands on the most up to date maps and trip notes to plan my route. I also am looking to plan some pit stops to try and attract my other guide friends to join me for sections, but I just need to get to planning. I also would just love to get some more advice. I will say, pack rafting sounds insanely cool (from my canoe experience) but I also know the dangers that come with solo water travel, especially in such windy conditions. I would love to discuss this further, if you have the time. Either way, I hope this gets to you, wikiexplora do me right!
I hope we speak soon,
Graham

*'''Nono''' Hi Jan! I am planning to hike the GPT from Puerto Montt to Santiago. I'll be starting in February. I'm currently planning the hike and the guide is really fantastic. Congrats and thank you for putting together such useful information. I hope I can help contribute too. Best, Arno.

*'''Timotheed''' Hi Jan, I am planning to hike on the GPT from El Chalten to Santiago with a friend. We'll start in February, and we ll make it to Santiago with some junctions by bus. I am currently trying to plan our trip and therefore I would like to use the GPT track files. Thank you so much for the amazing informations you provided.

*'''dmateria''' Hi Jan, I am planning to packraft the packraftable (GPT16+) out of the GPT from end of December onwards, thus I'd gladly make use of the existing tracks. Thanks for the amazing community you have helped building.

*'''Mishun''' Hi Jan, me and my wife Anna plan to hike on GPT as a part our trip to Chile in December. We aim to hike sections GPT 06 and GPT 07 but we keep our plans open to change depending on the current conditions. Thank you for all your effort.

*"'MiaimZelt"' Hi Jan, thank you a lot for sharing so much informations in the GPT Manual. My husband and i are currently in Chile and will be until April. We planned to do a lot of multi-day hikes off the beaten path, which are part of the GPT, without knowing about the GPT. Less than 2 weeks ago an other hiker advised me about the GPT. This way i found out we'll be section hikers on the GPT. Now i'm reading every day in the Manual and try to improve my planning as best as i can without the files. Since then i considered if i should add myself to the list, although i'm definately late. Decided to give it a try. The gpx-files would be a great help to find out about alternative routes of our planned treks and to understand all the log-entrys, which are related to the files.

*'''Elijah Fuller''' My friend Michael and I are experienced thruhikers who are looking to do something very different from our previous experiences; the GPT. We'll have approximately 2 months to complete the GPT in January and February 2025. We're currently route planning, with sections GPT05-22 or GPT32-47 being the two sections we're considering. It's time to jump on Google Earth!

*“Raphael Chevalier” Greetings and thank you for all the research and detailed information found in the Guide Manual. I have read chapter 1 and am further into getting info on that very intriguing trail. I have a GSP and would like to use the GPT gps coordinate to further research the sections I am planning to do starting January 2025. Once again thank you for the community and available information.

* '''Roman''' I already did parts of the GPT in the 23/24 Season and fell in love with it!:) So I want to continue where it stopped GPT82P / GPT 33. Looking forward fore some new explorations and the new stories to tell of the people I meet! :)

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike once again on GPT. Last time we were here in 2023 and now we are planning to come back ready to experience GPT with all its beauty and challanges.

*'''Peggy''' Hi Jan, a lot of gratitude for you work and for charing it. It's a wonderful gift! I plan to start the gpt late december 2024 and walk until march or april wherever I get. Then I probably do the south part next year. For the momeent, I study the manual, analyse the route and my gear so I would be happy to have the gps files to go further in this preparation. Talk with you soon I hope and I am happy too to be a part of this community.

*'''Mttmllr''' Hi Jan, I live in Biobio region Chile, and in the past few years have done some hikes in the Andes that have been on GPT routes. I'm interested in the track files to enable me to continue exploring (slowly, year by year, I don't plan on leaving Chile any time soon) the different segments of the GPT. Many thanks for all your work and dedication to this project.

*'''BeingGarrett''' Jan ... I am looking to start the GPT this year (2024) in Santiago, I have an unlimited timeline and acknowledge that the GPT can not be done in a single season, therefore I would like to directly view the GPS files to map a roughly 1000 mile section. Go far, not fast. Thank you.

*'''Kare-Bare Blvd''' Hi Jan, my GF and I are super stoked to have found such a wealth of knowledge available for our planned adventure to Patagonia. We have 2 months and are very much interested in the Packrafting portions between 17-39, plus all the side quests and hikes along the way. We don't plan to complete all these sections in 2 months but we really think that the track files will help in our planning and prioritizing of sections so that we can get the most out of our adventure and to do it safely. GPT 2026! B-K

*'''ClickClack''' Hi Jan, myself and a friend are planning on doing sections 1 through 40 from mid-November 2024 to March 2025. We hope to complete the whole thing and the track files would really help! Thank you for the incredible amount of effort you have put into this!

*'''Simonlusignan''' Hi Jan, I am planning my 1500km hike through some GPT sections. I am starting from El Chalten in January 2025 and will be doing sections 32 to 40 and 6 to 12. I would love access to the files to help me navigate through river crossings and certain tougher sections. Thank you very much for the incredible ressource!

*'''Tamar''''' hi! we were very excited to hear about this trail! and it's uniqueness!! we hope to hike through some sections along the trail starting from the north in December 2024 until the weather becomes cold. Would love to share photos taken along the way. thank you!!

*''''Thijmen''''' Hola Jan, I'm planning to Packraft part of the GPT for three months in January till March 2025. I would like to receive the track files in order to prepare. Thank you for all the effort in making this adventure possible.

*'''''borruu''''' Hello Jan, thank you for sharing all the information about GPT. I am planning to hike a southern part of the GPT in February 2025, an access to the track files will be greatly appreciated.

*'''''wiiiim''''' Hola Juan, I'm very interested in exploring Patagonia further by hiking & packrafting sections of the GPT from December 2024. I'm still going through a lot of the information, but would love to get request access to the track files to plan more accurately. All the best, Wim

*'''''Kevin4''''' Hello Juan, I am considering the GPT between Section 6 and 20 starting in December 2024. Thank you for your work and manual on the GPT. I would like to have access to the trace file to plan my route. I thank you, Kevin.

*'''''Clara''''' Hey Jan ! I'm planning to hike some sections of the GPT between Decembre 2024 to March 2025. After reeding the amazing GPT hiker's manual, I would like to get access to the track files to continue planning the hike. Thank's for sharing all your work.

*'''''Amazering''''' Hi Jan, first of all thanks for putting together all this info and documentation about the GPT, the pdf in particular has been an amazing read so far! We as a couple have been hiking for a few years and we identify ourselves very much in the slow pace, sharing centered and collaborative philosophy of the GPT, and plan on hiking on parts of the trail from end October 2024 through February 2025. Excited to be able to contribute back too!

*'''''GLOBTUINA''''' Hey Jan, i'm planning to hike parts of the GPT into october 2024 and January 2025, i would like to get access to the track files to properly plan my trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''Volker''''' Hey Jan, I am planning to hike parts of the GPT starting in December 2024 and would like to get access to the track files you created. You completed a tremendous work to write the excellent manual and create the track files. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT - and for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

*'''''Farah & Jan''''' Hey Jan, we're planning to hike parts of the GPT in January and February 2025 and would love to get access to the track files to properly plan our trip before taking on such a great adventure. Thank you very much for creating and maintaining the GPT!

*'''''leo_micklem''''' Hello, I'm Leo. I'm planning to Packraft some sections of the GPT with my brother as part of a wider South America trip. The Packraft portion of the trip will likely take place December 2024 into January 2025. We feel strongly that it is important to be properly prepared for a safe and enjoyable adventure.

*'''''Allie''''' Hello, I'm Allie (or Aliénor). I'm planning to visit Patagonia from november 2024 to march 2025, and i would like to discover the region mostly on foot. Thank you for your extensive research and comprehensive guide.

*'''''sigg''''' Hi Jan, I'm Chris and I was thinking about spending some time on the GPT as a solo traveller beginning mid January to beginning of March 25. Yet, as I want to plan thoroughly, I'd love to take a look into the gpx files in order to better understand the terrain to choose to legs I feel confident in mastering.

*'''''HugoT''''' Hi Jan, I'm Hugo and I'm planning to spend 3 weeks on the GPT. Reading the manual was great, a real change on how I normally prepare for more well-known trails in Scandinavia, Scotland, Iceland or Nepal. In my search for true nature, I would like to start on section GTP06 and go south until 1) the trail beats me or 2) go as far as my feet will take me in the time that I have.

*'''''veleslavia''''' Hello, I'm Olga and I'm planning to hike and packraft some sections of the Trail in late December 2024 with my partner. Thank you so much for creating the manual and the community around it!

*'''''Ayrton.debeauffort''''' Hello, first of all thank you so much for all the hard work to put all these incredible resources together. I am looking to travel solo this spring to Patagonia and want to do first 20-30 section of the GPT over 2 months (with flexibility on the number of sections and timing). I have done multi day hikes in the W trek, and Norway and the Dolomites in the past and am looking to do a longer distance trek given I will be taking some time away from work. I look forward to contributing to your amazing research and thank you again!

*'''''Celio''''' Hola, first thing, thank you very much for the passionate job you made in creating this Hiker's manual, it's a gold mine of infos! We are a french couple living in the alps and planning to do the GPT, starting november and going up north. Having worked 4 years in Tierra del fuego in guiding i'll be very happy to help in contribute and support the job you made ! Thank a lot.

*'''''TiMa''''' Hi, we are a german couple planning to hike various treks in Patagonia roughly during Jan+Feb 2025. We didn't decide yet on specific sections of the GPT. Thank you and the contributors for all the work!
*""Morliz"" Hi Jan, I am planning on hiking sections of the GPT from 11/24-5/25, am experienced in long distance (US), alpine (alps, andes, pamir) and would be happy to support the wiki explorer homepage for the GPT during and after the hike. Thank you for the support.
*'''''LukSara''''' Hello Jan, we are Lukas and Sarah, two hikers from the Alps and woud like to hike the first part of the GPT. We are planning to travel to Chile in November 2024. It would be great to hike with your GPS Track Files and of course we would be happy to contribute to your work with your experience. Thank you and everybody who made this possible.

*'''''ErJo''''' Hello Jan, we are passionate hikers that would like to hike parts of the Greater Patagonian Trail in January and February of 2025. We don`t plan on doing packrafting. We are very grateful for your absolutely awesome work and thank you for making such a trip possible! :)

*'''''Mathilde and Jordan''''' Hello Jan, first of all thank you very much for your huge and impressive work. We are two frenchies who would like to participate to this adventure and start in november. We'll be happy to share our experience, help with the tracks and give some updates. Passionate about nature, hike and new culture, The GPT is an adventure that we have in mind for a long time. Thank you very much :)

*'''''Elio''''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for the work you're doing mapping out the most remote parts of Patagonia. I'm a seasoned hiker from France and I'm starting planning my next project (hopefully for December 2024, depending on finance and wife approval :). I would be very interested in the data you've collected over the years to help me come up with a route. I would gladly contribute to this wiki as soon as I find relevant data to provide. Thanks!

*'''''Stefan''''' Hi Jan, we, my wife and I, are experienced hikers from Germany and are looking for a new long-distance hiking trail that is scenically impressive, remote and not overcrowded. We don't have a concrete schedule yet (probably in a few years, for a few months). In our search we finally came up with GPT and your manual. Both are really impressive! Thank you for your work so far! We would be happy to help supplement the manual and keep it up to date. However, we are still at the very beginning of the planning and would therefore like to use the tracks for further information and preparation.

*'''''Keili100''''' Hi Jan, we are Kathrin and Matthias from Germany (40yrs/42yrs) and we are both passionate hikers and have already visited lots of countries and its mountains. Since we have a kind of sabbatical in 2025/2026 we are planning to spend around 4 to 5 months on the GPT. My wife is fluent in Spanish and we are both fascinated of exploring remote areas and getting in touch with the locals combined with challenging navigation in barely untouched regions.
Thanks for your unbelievable huge amount of work you are putting on the GPT

*'''''Karin'''''Hi Jan, I am Karin. I have had the dream of visiting and hiking Patagonia since many years. I am in Latin America for roughly a year for work and I would like to take advantage of being in Latin America to hike in November - December 2024 parts of the GPT. Thank you vera much for your incredible work!

*'''''Charlie''''' Hi Jan! I'm Charlie. I'm planning to hike either two (7-8) of the northern sections or 32 and 33h in the first two weeks of april. I'm an experienced hiker, have led trips and organized my own in the us and recently completed a 3 week thruhike of sicily. beyond excited to get to patagonia - has been a dream for years.

*'''''Marion y Augustin''''' Hello Jan, we are a french couple wich aim to try to hike some sections of the GPT beteen April 2024 and July 2024, mixed with bus travel to join Perù. We are reading the Hikers'Manual, thanks a lot for that huge job !
*'''''Sophie y Gaspar (Dr Jabali)''''' Hello Jan, we are a franco-spanish couple wich aim to try to complete the GPT beteen November 2024 and May 2025 and discover these beautiful landscapes and cultures. Thanks
*'''''Paulus''''' Hey Jan, im very impressed by your detailed planning and knowledge of the patagonian mountains. I really enjoyed reading your short manual for the trail even though I should have actually studied for my exams. In Autumn I will finish university and now have finally the time to do a longer hiking trip again. Since im a biology student, the GPT is extremely interesting, since it would serve me as a transect to observe to Vegetation change from the north to the south. Ive always dreamed of seeing Araucarias!
*'''''gitano''''' Hi Jan I enjoy hiking and I have a lot of expirience hiking patagonia for the last 6 years. I grow up in Osorno and i would like to hike my own land. I will love to cooperate and keep up this exelent job!
*'''''Maxfelis''''' Hi Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Santiago. I recently did "Sendero del Condor", and I met someone that was doing the GPT06. I would love to collaborate with the GPT project, and explore other sections. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''txrx''''' Hello Jan, I'm a hiking enthusiast living in Bariloche. I am always researching new routes and many times I end up scanning the GPT Hikers Manual. I can't believe how much work and love has been put by all the contributors to build this, thank you very much! I would love to help to keep the GPT growing responsibly.

*'''''Bebo'''' Hello Jan, I First heard of GPT while traveling through Peru, Bolivia and Argentina by bike. Rightnow I meet with my Brother in Buenos Aires and we want to hike remote trails for the coming 2 months. The GPT sounds just perfect, so we really would love to get the GPX files. We are aware of the fact that the trails lead through privat Land and nature. We treat both with hugh respect! Thanks for your work! Greetings from germany!

*'''''Marilynemg''''' Hi Jan! I have been discussing the GPT with hiker friends for the last ten years and I finally will be able to visit Chile in March and April. I want to start with sections 1-8 and I have a couple more on the radar, time and weather dependent. Thank you so much for all your work!

*'''''Retezepe''''' Hey Jan, we are very grateful for the invaluable resources you have compiled for the GPT. We're looking forward to being a part of this project! My partner and I are currently in Chile and interested in hiking a couple of sections of the GPT. The sections that currently interest us the most are sections 19 and 37H. We will be in Greater Patagonia from February to March.

*'''''TrailsOfWander''''' Hi Jan. Thank you very much for your envaluable work for the GPT and for your guidance. I am traveling to Chile on Feb 11 to hike GPT06 and partial GPT08 and 09. Unfortunately I don’t have much time for this trip but I will plan future trips for other sections so the Track Files of GPT will be very valuable as the Manual is. Thanks again!

*'''''AlexNecky''''' Hello Jan, thank you for all the work you've done putting this trail together!! My friend and I have been eyeing the GPT for a while. After much researching using your information and additional sources, we have tickets to Santiago for the beginning of March. Our plan is to start with GPT06 and going SOBO thru GPT10 or as far as we can for the month that we have. We're both super excited about this adventure and look forward to contributing back to the community with our experience!! Thanks again!

*'''''Dueser''''' Hi Jan. I am deeply impressed by your work. Not only the time you spent on the GPT, but also all the documentation and the manual. During reading the manual I realized that 10 years ago I explored a few GPT stages in the north without knowing about the GPT. This time I'm deliberately heading south. I'll certainly put my experience to good use for the project.

*'''''CharlieGardner101''''' Hey there Jan! Charlie here! Wow, what an incredible community you've created here. I couldn't be more excited to explore this wonderful and wild part of the world and to become a contributing member of this initiative you've begun! I will be flying into El Chalten in the first week of February and, along with a few friends, hope to hike a variation of GPT sections 38-40. Later on (mid-late march), we hope to move further North to try our hands at a section somewhere between GPT 6 and 12. Thanks for everything you do! Cheers!

*'''''Zsu''''' Hi Jan! I would like to hike parts of GPT32-40 in the upcoming weeks. More details in the email. Thank you very much!

*'''''Fernanda''''' Hi Jan! First and foremost, a sincere thank you for your impressive work. It is so valuable to have this type of initiatives in Patagonia. I am Chilean and mountains have been my backyard since I was a kid. I am planning to do GPT35 and GPT 36H with my brother Francisco. He is also close to nature and a entrepreneur based partially on Puerto Bertand since 2020. I've shared the hikers manual with him and he was very thankful and impressed with this initiative. I would also be interested in contributing with adding highlights and changes to the track. Global warming is slowly but steadily modifying nature.

*'''''Daemos''''' Hi Jan! My name is Andrew, and I am a Canadian travelling in Patagonia for the next two months. I was planning to hike the Condor Circuit, but I've read online of some difficulties lately and am interested in investigating one of the variations of GPT6 as an alternative. I would also be interested in adding some highlights of the GPT to my plans as well.

*'''''PauMau2024''''' Hello Jan! My name is Paulina and I thank you so much for your work. It´s an impressive work that you have done! From february on my partner Flo and I want to explore and hike from Futaleufu to O'Higgins, GPT 71 and GPT35-39. Beginning in Futaleufu we will take around 5 days to get to Chaiten where we will have a resupply and then continue hiking down until the end of the carretera Austral. We are happy to share our GPS log and further information&experience, hopefully support future travelers.

*'''''madnomad''''' Hi! My name is Elias. We are a couple from Greece travelling around the American continent on a campervan, motorcycle, packraft and hiking equipment! We are already on the road for 5 months and we are currently in the Argentinian part of Patagonia. We love it here and it would be great to try a few sections of the GPT. We are not planning to do anything extreme, just enjoy a few highlights of the GPT at first!

*'''''acivs''''' Hi! My name is Agnes. I'm from Switzerland and love trekking. I did several hikes in the Alps, the Andes and in Patagonia. In August 2022 I started backpacking through South America and got trapped in Tortel about a year ago. Last March I read for the first time about the GPT and was fascinated by it. For the moment I am planning on doing my first to sections, GPT36H and GPT35.

*'''''wandering_guanaco''''' Hey all! My name is Jack and I am an American outdoors-person interested in hiking sections 16-23 this austral summer, and hope to continue to complete sections of the GPT as I continue to work in Chile for a few months of the year every year. This project is amazing and I am stunned by the thoroughness of the documents I have read so far. From the intentions of the project as a hike undertaken only by those who are prepared, to the particular comments on the links between fundraising and the inevitable outcome of the trip itself, I really appreciate the time and thought that has been put in to not just the adventure portion, but also the preparation, reputation, and impact of the hike. I feel lucky to have explored chunks of Patagonia in my past and cannot wait to broaden my experiences through these sections and information in the future.

*'''''bistarai.bistarai''''' Hello! My name is Susie, I’m French-Canadian and planning on hiking sections 6 to 18 (although very flexible) as a first attempt on the GPT which I have been eyeing for a while now. Eventually I’d love to try packrafting in more southern sections in a couple of years!

*'''''mollycargill''''' Hello, my name is Molly and I am a medical doctor from Australia with a lifelong love of the outdoors and an interest in wilderness medicine. As a part of an Expedition Medicine course I am currently undertaking I need to create an in depth logistics plan for a trip which I want to go on, which I have chosen as packrafting sections 16-25 of the GPT. I have had my eye on the GPT for a while, and hopefully can use the finished product of this assignment to help me finally attempt some of the GPT in the 2024/25 season.

*'''''HHGTPE''''' (Hitchhikers guide to planet earth) Hey, I am Felix. I hitchhiked around the globe for three years some time ago and now I am doing a semester abroad in Buenos Aires for my uni. While looking for long distance tracks in Patagonia, I came across the GPT and very much fell in love with the whole concept. This year I would like to do some of the shorter and easiest hiking parts of the GPT but hopefully come back in the future to do some longer and connected parts.

*'''''fabianundcecile''''' Hola de San Rafael, Argentina. We are travelling to southern Patagonia and thought we could hike some sections of the PGT along the way. Maybe starting with GPT 7 southbound. Saludos Cécile y Fabian

*'''''czimahi'''''Hola Jan, por favor me podrías enviar el file para ir alguna parte entre GPT18 a GPT5? Muchas gracias

*'''''nico142857''''' Hola desde Chile!. Escribo en español por razones políticas más que practicas. Primero que todo, gracias por recolectar, sintetizar y compartir la información. Me interesa recorrer la parte norte de los 'senderos' y me interesan tener los .kmz para 1) tener una ayuda, 2) no abrir mas senderos y respetar la naturaleza y 3) dar feedback a la comunidad. Saludos

*'''''Ggeoff88''''' Hello everybody ! My name is Guillaume from France and I'm actually in Bariloche preparing my adventure to go to El Chalten by foot. You guys did an incredible Job of research, documentation and exploration... Today I'd like to inspire of your work in order to prepare my road. It's normal for me and will be a pleasure to share my experience after it.

*'''''MysticalMarauder''''' Hi my name is Misha and I'm in Chile with an old friend about to the depart on a greand adventure December 2023 onwards. Heading south in the coming days with the zenith of our travels the Punta Arenas/Puerto Natales area. Then turning around and heading back north after a month or 2. Eager to get on the GPT in either direction in the coming months/years? Not sure how long this adventure will last but hopeful to hike many kilometers on this network. Thank yiou to Jan and this commmunity for establishing this route and creating this excellent resource for those excited to get off the well-traveled roads and disappear into the wild for a bit.

*'''''Lazy_Lemon''''' Kia ora! Looking to get amongst the Patagonia trails so thanks so much for putting all this information together!

*'''''Sam Odin'''''' Hello! Thank you so much for this impressive work. The detail and love put into the GPT manual is truly a gift to us all. Between January 15 and February 5, my partner Sara and I are planning to explore as much of GPT33 as possible. Beginning in Villa Cerro Castillo we will take 8 to 10 days to get to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (where we will have a resupply) and then take about the same time to get back to Villa Cerro Castillo. We would love to share our log and GPS information, hopefully further illuminating future travelers to the less frequented routes and parts of this section

*'''''Jonathan Mudde'''''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT in the very south and in the north. I'll start on the first of January around Ushuaia. And after that I like to use the border close to O'Higgins and hike some parts around Laguna de la laja I'm looking forward to use the gpx files. Thanks in advance! I have read many parts with great respect for your work and honering the lokal people. Regards Jonathan Mudde/Abishaloom

*'''Matthias''' Küme naqün antü! I've been following this fascinating idea for years, and now I can hopefully explore a small part of it myself and contribute to its long-term existence. I will arrive in Santiago in January, then I would like to follo'''w the GPT southwards, walking until about GPT20. But I am flexible in my plans on the ground, I am open to spontaneity and ever-changing challenges. Alles Leben ist Problemlösen.

*'''Carina''' Hi! Thank you so much for the detailed GPT resource you have created. It's been a dream of mine to hike/trail run through parts of Patagonia, and it would be really helpful to see the GPT track files to help with my route planning. I'm planning to go in 1-2 years from now, so plenty of time to plan still. Very happy to contribute / provide feedback on route sections once I'm there myself. Thank you :)

*'''Paulina''' Hello everybody. First of all, I would like to thank you for all the huge job you put into this projekt. I'm really amased. I will start a part of GPT in January, I'm especially interested in GPT because it seems wild, unspoilt and very interesting from cultural point of view. I also love the idea that everyone can create its own trail and that three is no one and the best option. Living in Europe where in some parts of the mountain we focus maybe too much on kilometers and speed, it seems that GPT offers something much more important. I will be more than happy to contibute to this beautiful projekt.

*'''Mitschu''' Hello, after spending 9 weeks in Patagonia (pre pandemic) I am back with the aim to explore even more :) I thought about starting in Bariloche, explore the lake area going north (following part of Huella Andina) and finally cross over to chile and start at section 16 southbound mid/end of december. I used the pandemic for some long distance hikes in europe (GR5, half of GR10/11 and TMB) and cant wait to enjoy the beauty of patagonia. I will hike solo but open to meet up with fellow hikers if someone happen to be in the area :) I am following the project since 2 years... impressive work. Happy to contribute as well! Looking forward hearing from you! Thanks

*'''Rainbow16''' Hi Jan & fellow hikers! My name is Tanja and I am currently planning to walk Sections 6-22 starting end of December 2023. Still a bit dizzy from reading the hikers manual (what a great documentation!), I am excited to further explore this Patagonian trail network via the track files. A huge thanks to Jan and Meylin for their adventurous spirit and dedication as well as all other collaborators (what a cool community!). Looking forward to contributing myself once I put my feet on GPT grounds.

*'''Frans van Driel''' Hi Jan, first and foremost I would like to thank you for all the work you put into the GPT. Truly impressive to read the manual! I'm planning to walk a few sections of the GPT. I'll explain more in detail in the upcoming email. My timeframe will be half December 2023 till half January 2024. I'm looking forward to this amazing experience and would like to start some more detailed planning using the gpx files. Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Frans van Driel

*'''Owen Hutchison (elhutcho)''' Hey Jan! Am incredibly impressed with what you have been able to put together with the GPT - it’s an amazing achievement for which I’m sure many are thankful. I have been reading through the manual in preparation for a trip in February and March 2024. My partner and I will make our way down from Lago Puelo (GPT 22/23) to El Chalten via a mix of different segments and pack rafting. To assist in planning and preparation, I’d be really grateful to receive the the KMZ/GPX Files. I am very happy to contribute back to the project in anyway I can. Thanks again! Owen

*'''Piotr Szatkowski''' Hello Jan, primarily I would like to say thank you for the massive amount of dedication you put into creating the whole guide. The quality of it, the precision everything is described with is very impressive.I would like to kindly ask you if you could share with me the KMZ/GPX Files. I am incredibly humbled to be able to discover the beauty of the regions of Patagonia. Can't wait into immerse in to this journey of solitude. I will be starting in end of December for section and or 2 heading south. Will probably hike for 2 months. I am not sure how long exactly.

*'''Ella Meyer''' Hi Jan, I am planning to walk parts of the GPT as part of a project studying and documenting people's relationships to water along long-distance trails. As per your suggestion when we talked on the phone one year ago, I would like to hike Sections 1-12. I may also skip to Sections 21, 22, 63 and 69. I am hoping to depart Southbound around late December (2023). I am very excited to embark on this journey, and welcome anyone else planning on hiking these sections to connect with me (contact info can be found on my website https://ellameyer.com/)

*'''Vlad Ivanchuk (vladdi)''' I'm planning to walk some southern sections of GPT northbound from Ushuaia starting in December 2023 for just over a month. I look forward to immersing myself in the landscapes and culture of Patagonia, and I'd appreciate access to GPS files to enable this adventure.

*'''Robin Marcille''' Hi Jan, hi all, thank you for this immense amount of work. After sailing from France to Ushuaïa, we are planning to walk parts of the GPT norhbound from Puerto Williams on November 2024 for approx. 3 months. We would be very grateful to access the GPS files to prepare our trip ! We are especially interested in the various options between Puerto Williams and Cochrane. We're super excited to participate to this project and would like to propose some mountaineering options !

*'''Cyril AC'H (Cy)''' Hi, can't wait more to get back with GG on the GPT after 2 years break, from El Bolson southbound toward Cochrane and El Chalten in a packrafting mode for those sections. No rush, side trips to fjords, we will see how far we get ! Thx for the KMZ/GPX Files !

*'''Martin_crgt''' Hi all, thanks for your work Jan, and for everyone's contributions to this adventure, My sister and I are planning to do the GPT in February 2024 from section 6 down south. Having the GPS data would be a great help to help us plan.

*'''maddidunster''' Hi Jan, Tom and I are two Australians planning to hike northbound from El Chalten to wherever we make it with the time we have from February to April 2024. Super excited, can't wait!

*'''guswimbo''' Hello Jan, thank you for all of your and others' work on putting together this incredible wealth of information! I'm planning on backpacking/packrafting from Cochamo to El Chalten in January/February 2023.

* '''Oscar Crassous''' Hello Jan, I'm a french men who will travel northbound during 9 months in South America, between november and august. I have planned to walk most of the time and I am very excited to hike some parts of the GPT during my trip. Thanks for your work.

* '''Matthieu''' Hello Meylin and Jan, former hiker on the GPT (season 2019-2020, northbound), would gladly go back on trail this year to hike some other parts southbound (Santiago-Antuco, Puyehue - Coyhaique)!

* '''GriffinWagner13''' Hello Jan, planning to travel to Chile/Argentinia in 2025. I'll be doing some of the sections between GPT01 and GPT40, bussing between routes as possible. I definitely want to hit some of the northern volcanoes as well as the southern routes! Super excited to hike it.

* '''edwinb''' Hello Jan, planning to fly to Santiago in 2 weeks. Thinking about gpt2/3 to do something close to Santiago and especially want to do the tracks in the araucania this time. gpt33h and gpt37h look very attractive to. Thanks again for all the work! Edwin

* '''lilian''' Hello Jan, i'm planning to have a 3-4 months hike through Greater Patagonia, I will travel to Santiago in mid-November 2023 and maybe end my hike about March to April at somewhere south. I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 to 69, would be incredibly grateful to have the files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!

* '''zipgerm''' Hey Jan, Thank you for your work and contributing the route information to the world! I'll be in Chile/Argentina from beginning of December until April. If my feet are willing, I want to walk parts of the GPT starting with section 05 or 06 southwards. I read a great part of your guide and already bought a GPS with satellite pager - alhough I never used neither of them on my off-track hiking tours before. Looking forward to Chile and the Andes. Matthias

* '''JordanJennings''' Hi Jan, my plan is to packraft soundbound sections 17-30 over the season, but will likely begin with a few (conditions appropriate) sections between 30-40 from November after completing some packrafting training around Puerto Río Tranquilo. I would like to also thank you for dedication so much time and energy into making this possible for all of us

*'''LottiRummel''' Hi Jan, thank you for all your fantastic work! We are planning to spend January 2024 in Chile and want to hike starting from around GPT 06 southwards. I hope the gpx tracks will help us decide which sections to plan. Thanks! Alex and Lotti

*'''Rowe99''' Hi Jan, first of all, many thanks to you and everyone else who contributed to the manual. I have never seen so much information about such a large network for any other region in an open-source manner. I am planning to hike this year (2023) from December to mid-February starting from El Chaltén northwards with a pakraft. Thanks for all the information so far! Cheers Roman!

*'''Jonas._____''' Hi Jan, I'm planning to hike through Patagonia from December to February/March. I will start in Puerto Montt and then go south from there as far as time and terrain permits. The great GPT Hikers' Manual did already give me a really good insight in what to expect and I would really appreciate having the GPT Track Files as well to prepare for my trip as much as possible! Thanks for your help!

*'''ColineW''' Hi Jan ! Thank you a lot for the amazing work you did with the "Great Patagonian Trail, Hikers Manual" ! It's full of wize advices and ideas I maybe would havenot find myself. I will go in Chili from mid-december to mid-march, meet up with my father who is currently wandering in the south. We'd like the hike northbound from GPT20 to GPT01. The GPS files would be a great help for you, since I tried my plan an itinerary on Google Earth and, as you know, I lost sight of some roads in the forest. My father has a Garmin66i, so we'll be able to send the datas of our trail to you. Have a nice day !

*'''Roi Keler''' Hello Jan, First of all, thank you for the amazing work you did and still do, it's a great inspiration for me. I plan to spend 3-4 months in Patagonia and I want to combine several walking sections of the GPT between section GPT01 - GPT16 & GPT32 - GPT46. After reading the hikers' manual and completing the preparations, I decided not to focus on a meticulous plan because it is important for me to be spontaneous and keep the options open. The GPS files in combination with the hikers' manual will allow me to choose the hiking sactions that suit me and then send the information to you and share with the community. Thanks for everything!

*'''Marmur''' Hi Jan! We are a couple and are planning to hike the GPT from start to end, in 2 seasons (hopefully) starting next season. We have visited Patagonia in the past and can't wait to get to know it more intimately, as we loved it so much. hiking in remote locations with unmarked trails is not new to us, but we are exited about the challenges that are waiting for us at this epic terrain. this is a great chance to thank you for all this impressive work that you've been doing, and you can count on us that after all this ends for us, we will share all inputs and updates with you and the community.

*'''Lukas Deleu''' Hi Jan, my girlfriend and I are planning to do 3-4 months of hiking through Greater Patagonia starting this december. We chose some of the sections that most appealed to us and hope to connect them by public transport. Gpt 6-12, 16-19, 32-40 is what we have in mind for the moment. Having the trackfiles would be a great help offcourse. Cheers.

*'''Huemul''' Hello Jan, I'm Frank from Irlanda. I hope to continue southbound in November from El Chalten to Isla Navarino. Thanks for all your help & advice so far.

*'''RoshiJ''' Hi Jan, what an amazing piece of work you've established in the GPT hiker's manual, and its amazing to see how many people are inspired by it. I am planning on exploring Patagonia starting in November, with no end date as of yet. My only goal is to wander and wonder but I'd like to do so well-informed and as prepared as possible. I already feel so after reading the manual but it would be even better to set out armed with your GPS files. I also love the idea of using wikiexplora as a platform to communicate within a like-minded community with similar goals so am enthusiastic to share my own experiences and read those of others.

*'''Pieper92''' Holá Jan, Thank you for providing this comprehensive manual. I will travel to Patagonia in November 2023 and want to make my way from santiago to tierra del fuego by feet, on my beloved packraft but also longer sections by bus transport. Have not picked all sections but Lagos Chilenos/argentinos, parts of fjord area and tierra del fuego are in focus. Especially I want to circumvent the spoiled national parks in the south. Your guide has already been a great help up to know but the GPT track files would be extraordinary helpfull. I will especially try to provide novel exploration data by packraft.

*'''nickcarter884''' Dear Jan, Thank you so much for all the work you have done on this manual and the route, it's fantastic! Some friends and I are planning to do the section around El Chalten in February 2024 and would really like to follow your routes rather than the roads. Please could I have access to the GPS files so we can be in the real nature, not just the road? :-)

*'''delabien''' Dear Jan, I am very inspired by your manual. My partner and I plan to travel for 4 months starting from the capital Santiago going slowly to the south (starting in November 2023). Thus we would like to hike some of the sections you and the other collaborators assembled. In order to make the expedition more feasible for us we intent to use the local public transportation for some parts. Really looking forward to experience the changing landscapes during the route. Thank you

*'''wbarab''' Hi Jan, thank you for all the extensive and detailed work put into this manual. My partner and I (American & Spanish)plan to hike the GPT from mid November 2023 until late February or March 2024. So far GPT 6-12, 14-16, 19, and 32-40 have stood out to us as a start, but our investigations continue and we plan to add at least another half dozen sections (plus some "maybes" if time permits)! To continue we would really appreciate access to the trackfiles.

*'''ranulph24''' Hi Jan, great manual! Thank you for putting so much passion in this project. I consider hiking on the GPT in November 2024 - April 2025. I am mainly aiming for the northern part 5 - 30 and add a smaller section in the south. For refining my plans I would like to study the GPS Track Files in detail.

*'''MMartinez''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for this incredible amount of work. It is really inspiring and exciting. We are a couple (American and Polish) and we are interested in hiking some of the sections of the GPT later this year. We have been reading the manual and adjusting and readjusting plans the more we learn (there's so much to learn!) We would really appreciate access to the track files to help with the planning. Thank you so much again!

*'''SeanMaskill''' Hi Jan, Thanks for all of your work! I've wanted to hike sections of the GPT for a few years. I've now started the research seriously and tracks would help me decide which sections I'd like to hike. Cheers Sean.

*'''MarmotAndBear''' Dear Jan, Thank you for putting in so much dedicated work, to create the Hiker’s Manual, and in doing so helping others to hike and appreciate this part of the world. We are a German-Singaporean couple and we have been following the GPT community for almost one year now. We have quit our jobs not long ago and have started visiting Central Asia, where we’ve been able to do some amazing hikes. Before setting foot on the GPT this coming (southern) summer, we are planning to improve our Spanish in other South American countries. We hope a few weeks of dedicated learning will do the trick. Once on the trail, we are planning to hike and packraft as much of the GPT as we can during the coming season. Let’s see how far our feet and boat will carry us :)

*'''guaraches80''' Hello and good afternoon Jan. I have been reading and preparing for some sections of the trail you have put together. I, a Mexican American, and a Colombian friend will be backpacking through Brazil and later to Argentina in the coming months and we would love to see some of the wonderful trails you and others have experienced. Obviously, because of our backgrounds we both speak fluent Spanish and have years of backpacking, hiking and bushcrafting experience. This is something I look forward to with the uptmost energy and so will eagerly await the track files to begin further in-depth planning. Thank you for your time. Until next time!

*'''blissfulmisgivings''' Hi Jan, Thank you for providing so much detailed and helpful information about the GPT! We (two Americans) are excited to try packrafting portions of the GPT beginning in November 2023. The guidance you've provided in the manual has already been invaluable to our preparations, and we look forward to reviewing and using the GPT track files in our journey. Thanks again!

*'''YannickCOLL''' Hi Jan, Thank you very much for your work and your dedication to the GPT. We are immersing in the GPT universe with pleasure and a growing sense of adventure. We are a couple (French and Belgian) and we’re looking to hike some sections of the GPT between mid-November 2023 until April 2024 (Sections: 1-12 / 16 / 19 / 32-40). These are the sections that we selected so far and that we are more attracted to, knowing that of course it can change. We were wondering if you could grant us access to the GPS tracks in order for us to prepare for the GPT. We understand that this is an unofficial trail and that it is still a work in progress and we are eager to help in any way we can to continue to build this ‘trail’. Nolwenn & Yannick

*'''daniel.s''' Hi Jan, amazing work with the Hiker's Manual! I hope to meet some of you on the trail next season. I'm planning to do some of the packrafting sections starting at GPT 17. The track files would be very helpful to make it an unforgettable experience. Greetings from Austria, Daniel

*'''hevike''' Hello fellow hiking community, I'm Jens from Germany looking into hiking sections of the GPT this November until the end of February. Thanks for the amazing work you all have put into this project and I'm looking forward to contribute myself.

*'''MartinGilles''' Hola Jan, soy Martin de Belgica y estoy planeando hacer una parte del GPT al principio de noviembre hasta el 20 de diciembre. Me gustaria tener the GPS tracks para organisarme y ver lo que me conviene mas. Muchas gracias por lo que hiciste y para permitir la exploracion de esta parte del mundo. Un placer, Martin.

*'''Marc Altena''' Hi Jan, thanks for all your hard work exploring the hidden trails of Patagonia. I'm hoping to do sections 6 to 10, 16 to 22 and 32 to 40 early next year. The GPS tracks would be helpful. Tanks in advance for sending them. Kind regards, Marc

*'''Lorenzo''' Hi Jan, I don't have specific plans concerning the GPT yet, but that might change soon. After the reading the first 300 pages of your guidebook it seems to me like a real challenge and an unforgettable experience at the same time. I'll call it a dream to hike at least parts of it, and extensive planning is the first step to make your dreams come true.

*'''Joscha97''' Hi Jan, I gonna travel to Chile in the beginning of next year and I am really fascinated by the idea of the GPT. I would love to hike some parts of it, starting in Santiago. Thanks for all the work you put into this project. Greetings

*'''Larix84''' Hello Jan, he hablado contigo con whatsapp hace 2 semanas Mi proyecto de trail para el ano que viene se confirma, un saludo'''

*'''Noemie''' Hi Jan, thank you so much for making us discover those incredible paths and landscapes in an ethical way. I have been hiking in Chilean Patagonia for a few months now and I wish to keep discovering the region more deeply by hiking through a few sections of the GPT, especially GPT36H (ruta de los Pioneros). Depending on how this goes, and on the weather conditions, I may try to go further north around sections 08-09. Thanks for all your work, the resources you provided have been super helpful!

*'''TheRebel''' Hey Jan thanks for the big package of information you provide with tha website/pdf I'm in Argentina since 3 months and hiked many km in the official and more marked areas (bariloche, bolson, esquel, el Chaltén, El Calafate, Ushuaia and more) and now I'm on the way back north and wanna end up in Bolivia or maybe even Columbia in the next 6 months... I've heard about your site from a Canadian guy who did some sections more north and I thought it would be nice to do some more trails in a little more remote areas on my way north
Greatings TheRebel

*'''Jen''' Hi Jan and so, so many thanks for all the incredible work you have done here. I am currently in Peru and planning to fly south to begin the beginning of GPT01 in the next few weeks and see how long I can walk for before things become too off season. I will halt and recommence when the season comes back in. If I manage to journey to Punta Arenas in the end, whenever this might be, then I am happy! Thank you, Jen.

*'''Ollie''' Hello Jan. I am from Wales and currently is
Brazil after sailing here from Europe. My plan is to work my way towards southern Argentina where I will stop and work for a while. Hopefully improving my Spanish, get to know the culture more and spend my weekends in the mountains to prepare. The idea is to start from Tierra Del Fuego, head north and just take it step by step. The manual has been a great read thank you for being so thorough. Love it. Cheers.

*'''Silke & Hans''' Hello, We are a Belgian couple currently on a multiyear bikepacking, trekking & mountaineering trip through South-America. We'd been looking forward to do some sections of the GPT for a long time. We are currently in Chile Chico, and planning to do the GPT35 section. We probably want to do some more sections further South.

*'''Jakub+Veronika''' Hi Jan, we're a couple from Czechia, currently almost one month in Chile getting to know the country, it's history and it's people's culture. We'd like to hike some parts of the GPT south from Puerto Montt, where we are based right now. Thanks for this awesome work!

*'''Alan''' Hola Jan! I'm Alan from California. I'm interested in doing GPT32 and GPT33H. Thanks for all the resources you have provided so far!

*'''Diegoara''' Hi! My name is Diego and I am from Chile and I'm interested in the GPT to do de GPT18 & GPT19, i would be a little more than a week, i think that is amazing the work that you do making this GPT in my country.Thanks!

*'''Jess&Paco''' Hey Jan ! We are from France and we would love to hike the GPT between march and april 2023. We plan to connect a few sections in the great lakes region (between section GPT45 and GPT35, south to north) for about a month. And if the weather is favorable, we would explore in april a little bit of the nothern parts of the GPT (volcanos region) but without necessarily connecting steps, while being around for a workaway. Thanks a lot for all this work !

*'''blklb''' Hi Jan! I'll be leaving for Chile in a few days and would like to do bits and pieces of the sections between Curico and Conaripe, perhaps farther south. I'll be combining trekking with time spent in towns/cities. This is going to be a leisurely exploration of the GPT, with the possiblity of a longer GPT-specific trip in the future. Thanks!

*'''Joachim''' Holà Jan! I'm Joachim from France. I'm coming to Chile in a few weeks, and found your website with a lot of valuable informations on this beautiful itinerary! I don't have a fixed plan yet but my idea is to start around Santiago and go South until winter begins. I'd love to get a hand on those gpx files to help me plan properly, I'll be happy to share feedback when coming home. Many thanks for all the work you put in!

*'''Johnny1968''' Hi Jan! We are a couple from Italy and want to to start mid february 2023 from Santiago for the GPT. We have 2 months of time and want to see how far we get, without hurry, soaking up nature and culture. Thanks for the manual and creating the track files, great respect for the ethics!

*'''derameisenbaer''' Hi, two people from Germany. We'll be hiking part of the GPT (GPT06-GPT12) in February. If there's time left we might be able to hike part of the more southern sections as well. Really looking forward to it and really aprreciate the great work on this page and the Hikers Manual!

*'''ebse''' Hello, I'm Ed from England. Would love to help contribute to this mammoth project by hopefully walking GPT01 - GPT20ish in late 2023. Looks like a remarkable experience all round; I'd be very grateful to be part of it.

*'''Martio''' Saludos, soy Martial ! landing on jan. 14th for a 2 month journey into Chilean natural wonders. I plan to hike a selection of northern GPT sections between 1 and 22. Plans purposely open for this first experience and can't wait to get involved in the community. Ps: Jan, you rock !

*'''Clemgbl''' I'm Clement from France. Currently hiking in Chile from month, I would like to continue my trek on the GPT next month (january and February 2023). I plan to start in Coyhaique and hike until El Chalten (GPT 31 to GPT 40).

*'''Jcoxxx''' I'm Jeff from Alaska. Hopefully I'll be hiking and packrafting section 17 to 39, starting this January. I'm really excited to be a part of this project and share my trackfiles.

*'''Eleebeatriz''' Hi, I'm Elena from Chile. On the 27th of this month we are going to carry out the Gpt7, we will enter through the "Puente Ingles" , in San Fabian de Alico, up to the Polcura mountain range, in Antuco. Greetings and I hope in January I will be editing what I have done to share it with you!

*'''MarcGPT''' Hola! Last year while hiking around Cochrane, I learned about the GPT. Looking forward to return and contribute to the GPT manual.

*'''Franzz''' Hi! I'm Franzz from Switzerland. I'm planning to thru-hike my own version of the GPT next year. Using your tracking files would be a great help planning the itinerary :) I would be more than happy to share back my own track files and experiences once I'm back.

*'''Nicktravels_''' Hey mate, I'm Nick - i'm planning on a hike/packraft of mumtiple segments with my three amigos. Leave only footprints is a big part of our travelling philosophy and I have a lot of respect for the ethos you carry through the information provided.

*'''Timo''' Hi, I'm Timothée. I'm French but also from Munich Germany! I plan on being in Chile beginning of next year and on doing someof the sections (probably 6-22, 32-40 more or less). I'm super impressed by all the gathered and explained documentations and advices form the Manual and would love to contribute !

*'''zozo''' Hi, my name is Zohar. I'm from Israel and plan on doing some trekking in Patagonia in January 2023. planning to do parts of the GPT from south to north starting at section 46.

*'''florianluca''' Hi, my name is Florian. I'm from Germany and plan on doing some trekking in Chile at the Beginning of next year (2023). I appreciate the work that went into this project and would like to use some of it for planning some of our tour.

*'''willcampbell444''' Hi, I'm Will from Canada. I'm interested in hiking some of the trail as I make my way south through Chile! I was thinking of starting at section 6 in mid December, depending on the weather. I really appreciate all the work done putting together the trail, and I hope to contribute with my track files and notes.

*'''Dallas''' Hi, I´m Dallas, from Berkeley, California, USA. I am interested in planning a trip in early 2023 to explore the beauty of Patagonia and indulge in my passion for slow, human-powered travel. This trip is open-ended and intentionally meandering, and the GPT looks like an excellent basis of exploration.

*'''Nicopo''' Hi, I´m Nicolás, from Buenos Aires. My girlfriend and I have been hiking in Patagonia for the last few years and we are planning on hiking sections of the GPT from December to February. We are already getting started with our planning and are looking forward to contributing with what we can. Thank you!

*'''Newt, Birdie, and Possum''' Hi! We are on our way back to Patagonia for the third time. The three of us have hiked in Patagonia and many other places in the world together. We will have 1 month to hike a portion of the GPT, specifically focusing on 33H -38H going northbound. We are inspired by this document and we can't wait to become contributing members of this community. Thank you!

*'''pgantier''' Hi, I'm Pierre from France. I discovered Chile and South America 5 years ago during an exchange semester and look forward to going back there for a long trip (within the next 5 years for around 12 months). I would love to do some part of the Greater Patagonian trail during this future gap year and I want to prepare well it advance to continue to get experience to be ready for this gread adventure !

*'''Jonny6k''' Hi, im planning on hiking some sections of the GPT from late December until March (or until i get tired!) I am planning on sections 6-22, but nothing is certain yet. I hope to add to the track files and contribute with some notes regarding the trails. i look forward to arriving in chile! Jonny

*'''felagund''' Hello, I would like to hike the GPT in December-February, from Santiago till as far as I can get and as long as a I enjoy it. So I would be interested in the trackfiles from 1 till about 40, even though I probably won't reach that far. I am a contributor to OSM so I was thinking that would be my main form of contribution, though I would not want to put paths that are disputed there of course. Tomas

*'''Arnaudlacoste''' Hello Jan! I have been a big fan of the GPT for some years now. I just moved back to Chile after living for the past 8 years in Europe and would love to discover a few sections of the GPT. I will be settling in Araucania region so I would love to have access to the track files and plan which sections I will immerge myself into. I hope I can also contribute to it and meet some of the community in the following months/years. Thanks you and the community for this marvelous work! Cheers, Arnaud.

*"ChristopherT"Hello! Christopher from Austria here. My girlfriend Anna from Germany and I are planning to do the gpt. We are still trying to figure out which sections we would like to trek.We definetly want to explore and hike in Feuerland though.We would very much appreciate the track files to help us with our decision and on our journey. I hope we can contribute a bit as well. Thank you!
Cheers,
Christopher and Anna

* '''Matous'''Hi everyone! Here Matous and Johana. Couple from Czechia. We are planning to hike some sections on GPT at the beginning of next year. We are interested in GPT06 - 22. The track files would be great help in planning. And thank you for amazing work. We´ll be happy to contribute.

* '''guilhermealexs''' Hi! Guilherme Alexsander here from Brazil. Me and some friends are planning to walk some parts of the GPT. We are currently interested in the Los Quenes - Central Cipreces section. I'd like to get the track files to help us with planning. Thanks!

*"nmakepeace" Hello everyone, Natalie here from Canada, thank you to Jan and everyone for their contributions! My plan is to hike southbound on the GPT starting at Termas del Flaco (connect@ GPT05) because I want to do some specific mountains in Central Chile first. I may also look into connecting Volcán Maipo to coya. To make this all easier and more safe I would be not only grateful for the GPS files but honored! Start: mid/late December until begining of March. Hope to hear tales from you all soon!

* '''rom1dwker''' My girlfriend and I will cycle southward patagonian roads and ripio from mid december 22 to mid february 23, and we plan to maybe hike some sections of the GPT, especially the ones in Jenimeini where we have already been a few years ago, dependind on how everything goes with the cycling and and the roads we will actually take.

* '''gornik''' Me and my grilfriend Gabi would like to hike on GPT from January till March 2023. We are on a gap year after our studies, and during that time we would love to enjoy the wilderness of Patagonia. We are planning to first do some singular sections and after gaining some knowledge and experience in Patatagonia hiking, we would like to do some longer distances. We are also exited to combine it with hitchhiking to minimalize environmental impact.

* '''hannahp24''' My partner Eric & I will hike GPT 32-36 in Dec-Jan 2022/2023. Excited to explore new places and give guidance to what we find here.

* '''Jmcantin''' Hi Jan, thanks for the hard work in this awesome guide! I am planning a Southbound hike of the GPT from Santiago de Chile in January 2023 for a couple of months. I would love to have the track files to properly plan my route. Thank you for your help :)

* ''' bforselv''' Hello guys, my wife and I live north of the Artic Circle in Norway and we are planing to go to Chile for hiking January and February. We want to do sections of the GPT.

* ''' Ishaysachs(Ishay)''' Hello Jan! Ishay from Israel here. Just finished the PCT and looking forward to do some sections of the GPT this January-March. Would love to get access to the files in order to plan my route (: thank you for putting so much effort into this. That's an incredible project and I can't wait to start hiking and share the journey with this great community.

*''' greenh3624 (Helen and Craig)''' Hello Hello Jan. Thank you so much for providing all this incredible information from the manual, we are both super grateful and are looking forward to contributing. Looking in to sections GPT 16- 05/06 for 2023 and hopefully some southern route sections from there. Just a quick comment to request track files. Your manual is incredible by the way. Mil gracias!

* ''' Christophe (Alex & Christophe)''' Hi Jan! Thanks a lot for all this informations and for your work. We are now travelling in south America with our van and are planning to sell it and start to hike the GPT in December 2023 for 2 or 3 month. This track files would help us a lot to plan this incredible adventure.

*'''miguelvdvelden (Miguel)''' Hola Jan! I’m in awe of everything you’ve put together for the GPT. It’s so comprehensive and as a sustainability student I am grateful for the focus on both the environmental and social sustainability of the region and its communities. I am hoping to hike or packraft a part of the GPT over six weeks or so in Jan-Feb 2023. I am in full planning mode now, hence my request here. Muchas gracias por todo. Abrazo.

*'''nico142857''' Hola Jan! Hace un tiempo habia leido parte del manual y veo que ahora esta actualizado. Desde ese momento que quede maravillado con la rigurosidad de tu trabajo y lo sigo haciendo ahora. Me suscribo a esta lista para poder obtener los track files, pues me interesa recorrer algunas secciones en las proximas vacaciones de verano 2022/2023. Estare muy agradecido si lo puedes mandar. Saludos desde Chile!. nicolas.

*'''Lore Olivares''' Hola Jan, gracias por compartir esta valiosa información. Soy de Chile y junto a mi amigo queremos hacer la parte norte del GPT desde Santiago. Te agradeceré mucho si nos puedes compartir los datos GPX. Muchas gracias de antemano.
*'''annéesympathique;) (Rémy D.)''' Hi guys, I‘m a student from Belgium and I plan to walk the GPT from december to march. That’s why having the GPX track files would help me realize this project. A big respect about all the work behind the GPT.
* ''' TOBEL ''' Congratulations to the GPT Hikers Manual. I am from Germany and a bit older then the most here. This year I will hike some parts of the GPT, so I would like to get the gpx files.

* ''' Michaelstabile (Mike & Avery) Hi, Thanks for compiling all of this information. We are Backpacking and Pack rafting Guides in Alaska. We are planning to start in 2023 and Continue through all the way back to Alaska. Hiking, bike packing, Packrafting and sea kayaking. Having this track files would be incredible for us helping with planning for this section of our journey.

* ''' Martin&Helena (Martin.h)''' Hello guys! Thanks for the amazing work you’re doing with the GPT. We are a couple from Prague, Czech republic, planning to start hiking from the beginning of December, most likely until the end of March. We would use the track files for planning our hike and navigation. Thank you, Martin&Helena

* '''EDAWILSON (Ed)''' Hello! We are a couple from Scotland who are heading to Patagonia for a couple of months hiking this October/ November, and we are looking to incorporate some elements of the GPT into our trip. 2022 conditions permitting, we will likely explore some sections of the Fjord route; as well as Glacier Chica to El Chaltén; and fingers crossed some sections south of here. I would love to overlay the track files over GE for a better planning experience. We love the spirit of the community you are building here! Great work!

* '''Ridgepathpictures (Jani)''' Hi! Myself and a couple of friends are planning a packrafting trip in Patagonia at the start of 2023. We will be dipping in and out of the regular packrafting route, so sections 17 to 39. The aid of the track files would be greatly appreciated. I'm honestly astounded by the work you have put into this trail, it's truly very inspiring.

* '''Slingshot (Jeremy)''' Hi! My soon to be wife and I are planning a 3 month trek from GPT05 southbound and would greatly benefit from the GPT track files. Thank you so much for your hikers manual and for providing access to these files. It has already greatly benefited us.

* '''Alexis (dm) & Iris''' Hello! We are a 29/28 years old couple from France and are starting a sabbatical in South America for a year in December. We are landing in Puntas Arenas and would like to hike our way, on the GPT or not, through Chile up to the Ecuador. To better plan our trip, we would like to access the GPT track files and are obviously willing to contribute to the initiative. Many thanks.

*'''Max''': Hello, I am from Germany and I really like to hike. Next year, I plan to hike from Santiago de Chile all the way down to Ushuaia with a Packraft. To do that, I would like to get the gpx files, so I can choose from the routes. Thank you for all of this.

*'''Ted''': Hi guys, I'm a 33 year old austrian guy and I plan to hike a few sections of the GPT in October and November. it would be great if i could have the gpx data so i can plan the routes better. great community

*'''Chris and Tara''': Hello!!! We are husband and wife, being 33 and 26 years old respectively. We plan to walk from Barilloche to Santiago incorporating large sections of the GPT. There are no fixed plans for sections and times, just to fully immerse our selves in Patagonia, it’s people and way of life. Thank you and all those who have contributes for your incredible work so far, I look forward to being able to contribute for others to enjoy!

**'''Wannes''': Hello, I'm a 31 year old belgian who plans a two week trek/run in the beginning of November. I would love to do a part of the GPT. Could I receive the gpt tracks to decide which part would be ok to do? Kind regards. Wonderfull work!

*'''Yannic & Mirjam''': Hello together. We are Yannic and Mirjam and since one year on a world trip. We plan to spend a few months in Patagonia next and hike parts of the GPT. Which parts exactly we are currently still working out. Would it be possible to get the GPS tracks? Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''AdriKunz''': Hello, first of all, a huge thank for all your amazing work. I am so grateful for this sharing which will allow me I hope to live a unique experience. I'm a actually working in French Guyana, but were looking for an immersive hick before living this continent. I finally came across this extraordinary adventure, which I think corresponds to me in every way. I plan to try the GTP from Santiago to part 14 or 15 of the GPT in a month and a week. I intend to start the hike in mid november. May i aske you the GPT track of thoses parts ?

*'''Avisito''': Finally going for it - December 2022! Plan to start at GPT05 and go south for several weeks - would love to start exploring the GPS track files. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

*'''Veronica''': Hello, I am Canadian and will be spending six months in South America from October 2022 to March 2023. While I am there I would love to spend a few of these months hiking various portions of the GPT, which is why I would love to obtain the GPS track files. Thank you so much for all this work and to all those who have compiled all this information. I am very much appreciative of all of this!

*'''Andes et Tentes''': Hello, we are 3 french students taking a year off to explore South America. We are planning to explore Patagonia between February and April 2023 by hiking on some specific sections of the GPT. That's why we are asking for the GPS tracks. Many thanks for the huge work achieved ! It is impressively detailed and complete !

*'''ondra''': Hello! My name is Ondrej and I am from the Czech Republic. I have been reading about Jan's and others' experiences on the GPT for the past two years. I will finally have a chance to walk a part of the trail myself in January - March 2023. I am adding myself to the list to kindly request the track files. Thank you Jan for putting this together.

*'''Mat''': Hi! from France. I’m planning a few months hiking trip to discover south America. I’ll most probably walk parts of the Gpt (as much as I can). I would be grateful to receive the necessary gpx files. Thank you for the this very huge and inspiring work.

*'''Alice & Florian''': Hola! We are Alice & Florian, a french couple who love hiking. We who will travel in South America and especially in Chile in September and October this year (2022), and we read about the GPT and some blogs, which really peaked our interest. Our project is to walk going south along the GPT for about a month, somewhere between September and November. After reading the hiker's manual, we came here in order to do access the GPX files and prepare deeper our project. Muchas Gracias para todo este trabalho.

*'''Thomas - Chilzin, Brah!''': Hola! I'm a thru hiker planning to do a large part of the GPT mostly continuously before heading north on a huge trip to explore South America. I really appreciate this resource and will do my best to contribute before and while I'm on trail. Thank you!

*'''Aneso''': Hola! I'm Aneso, a French woman who loves hiking. I heard about the GPT while doing research following my plan to go to South America for 1 year.
My project on the GPT being to leave from the south in the direction of the north, over a period of 1 month (or even a little more) from January 2023.
In my research I am missing the exact GPX files for my GPS.
Thank you in advance and congratulations again for all the work provided and to which we have access.

*'''Ariane''': Hola! I'm French and I will be hiking in Patagonia in April (and perhaps May); my plans are not yet well defined but I'd like to follow parts of the GPT on my way northward. Thanks for your super useful work!

*'''OriolGirona''': Hola! I'm from Barcelona but living at nearby Girona. Love hiking and cycling, being my longer tours so far between 4 and 6 weeks on the trail. I hear about the GPT two years ago while looking for new ideas during covid lockdown. I already read the manual a couple of times, and I am thrilled to travel to Santiago next November / December for a couple of month, probably starting from section 1. And at this point of planning I will apreciate to have the GPX tracks to get deeper into this process. Awesome work. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''JuanchoUgarte''': Hola! I'm a Chilean guy that loves hiking. I hear about the GPT a few years ago. This year while doing the Travesia Cerro Castillo realized that it was part of the GPT and decided to start planning to do it on summer 2023. During 2021 did the GR11 in Spain and want to do something in Chile this time (the GPX tracks would be very useful for all the planning) Probably will start near Parque Inglés. Thanks a lot!!!

*'''LeanderDc''': Hey hey, we're a crew of 3 hiking-friends from Belgium and Chile. We're planning on walking a part of the GPT starting from around Cochamó till O'Higgins, probably taking some ferries and hitchhikes in between. We're starting to refine our exact route, by reading the manual and analyzing google earth, and would hugely benefit from the exact GPX files. Thanks in advance!

*'''rowanl''': Hello, I'm an avid hiker from Canada looking to explore trails along the carretera austral especially around Cerro Castillo National Park. I hope to use the track files to help refine my plans. I appreciate all the information provided, Thank you!

*'''meotr''': Hi! I'm a french engineer planning to hike some parts of the main route between mid-february and mid-march during a 3-4 months period in Chile and Argentina. Thank you for you incredible work !

*'''Sergio''': Hi! I live in Santiago and I'm planning on hiking some of the first GPTs on early February and hopefully some of the southern parts later on. Thank you very much for all the work you have put into this, it's an incredible thing what you have done!!

*jdhanlon/Jen and Vince''': Hi! I am planning to hike and packraft a number of sections this season, from Jan - March 2022. Thank you for all your efforts and guidance in sharing information about the trail network!

*'''Gianluca/Cerna_Beltz''': Salve a tutti, Hi!! I'm italian and I'm planning to hike some part of the GPT from the end of january to mars/avril. Thank you so much for all this information and for your attitude!

*'''José''': Hi!!. I'm chilean and im planning to hike the GPT05 - 22 southbound. I would really apreciate to have access to the track files. Thank you so much for doing this, its awesome!

*'''Carlos and Ivan''': Hellow. We'll be in Chile in january and february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thank you for your great work!

*'''Mariia and Misha''': Hi! We are two Russian flying to Argentina in end of December. Fully equipped for packrafting. Planed start January 5, 2022 from Lago Puelo southbound. Sections: 1. GPT23-25P Rio Frey and Lago Amutui Quimei. 2. Then flying to Chile and resume GPT26-28P 3. GPT30P-32 4. GPT33H-35 5. GPT36P 6. 36H Northbound. End before March 25. I would be very greatful for the track files. Thank you so much for your awesome guide and work!

*'''Mawel''': Hello, I'm planning to hike the GPT or at least a part of it. Idealy, I'd like to start from Ushuaïa and travelling up north along the cordilliera. Anything concrete yet but I'm sure the track files will be very helpful to prepare this journey as best as I can.

*'''Alexey''': I will start my trip on 29.11.2021 from Lago Todos Los Santos to the North, until Lago Ranco.

*'''Matthias&Janna''': We will hike parts of the GPT in december - february. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Franck''': I will hike parts of the GPT with a friend in december and january, we're interested in GPT05 to 12, 19 to 22 and 32 to 36. Thanks for the great work !! Can't wait to put my shoes on : D

*'''Nathaniel''': I will be in Chile for a few months starting in December 2021. I am considering packrafting in the vicinity of the Western Fjord Traverse (GPT90P-GPT92P) as well as hiking/packrafting a section of the main route of the GPT in Zones H and I (possibly including GPT32-40).

*'''Laurent and Maxime''': Hi there! We are two Canadians flying to Chile in January. We are fully equiped with lightweight equipment for packrafting, endure all sorts of weather and accomplish a great trip on the greater patagonian trail! We have 3 months to travel and we are very grateful of all the precious information you offer us ! Thank you very much !

*'''Rebeca y Cristián''': Buenas tardes Jan! Estuvimos conociendo distintos lugares de la décima región desde inicios del 2021, "aprovechando" las cuarentenas. Ahora estamos planeando un viaje más largo, el cual incluye packraft. Nos encantaría acceder a los archivos para planificar mejor. Desde ya, muy agradecidos.

*'''David Batguano''': Good day all. I am heading to Chile at the end of November 2021 to get some hiking in, obviously. Fist I am completing the O circuit at Torres del Paine, then will hopefully complete some of the easier sections of the GPT(I do not wish to bushwack or prove a point). I have no time constraints and will just go where I wish at a leisurely pace. I am on page 400 of the hikers manual working on routing. Though difficult, Jan's work so far is an unbelievable resource.

*'''Vera & James''': Hi all! We are planning to head over to Chile for 3 months Jan - Mar 2022 and plan to hike on the GPT. Planning is ongoing but current thinking is start at Puyehue and work north. The main motivation is to be in the mountains/wilderness for a period of time. The manual is an incredible resource! Thanks!

*'''Tobias''': Hi Jan, I'm flying into Chile on the 1 of November. My plan is to hike southwards from Frutillar to El Chaltén and visit Schools along the way. I would be very greatful for the track files GPT 22-40. Thank you so much for your amazing work!

*'''Kris&Stiina''': Greetings, we are going to Chile in November and we plan to hike some sections of the GPT. Track files would be a great help for planning our hike and logistics. Thanks for the enormous work done!

*'''Helmut and Beatrice''': Hi JAN, we are planning to spend two months in Patagonia at the beginning of next year. We want to hike around 1000 km and the tracking data would be a great help for us to choose appropriate sections and plan our hiking adventure. High praise for the great manual!

*'''HolKann & Peanutje''': Hey all, we're planning to visit Chile in January 2022, and hope to hike parts of the GPT for the better part of (at least) 3 months. Our most recent hiking experience was the [https://thepindosway.com Pindos way] in Greece, which consisted of finding "the shadow of an old mule path" to get up or down a mountain ridge, which taught us how to handle packs of angry shepherd dogs, and which forced on us a crash course in rudimentary Greek (as we would have gone hungry otherwise). We hope to get to know Patagonia and its people in the same way, except that our Spanish skills should be a bit better.

*'''Stephan''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, i'm planning to do the GPT 22,Lago todos los santos, from Petrohue to Cochamo, hiking and packrafting. I have planned to go on October 2021. Thanks for the great work!
*'''Stéphane''': Hi folks, Hi Jan, planing a trail trip next summer in Patagonia walking from Villa Cerro Castillo to Villa o Higgins. Could you please Jan send mi the track files beetween Villa Cerro Castillo and Pto Ibanez passing through Torres el Avellano ? GPT33H. Thx a lot and long life to yout project ! Hug

*'''Martin and Kim''': Hi, we are planning to spend two oder three months next year in Patagonia. We want to hike round about 1200 km there and the track file would be very helpful to choose sections and plan our adventure. Thanks for the great manual!

*'''Vicente''': Hi, I'm planning on doing the GPT this spring of 2021, I've done other long trails through Patagonia so I want to take it to the next level. I believe this trail has a great potential to become an icon for my country and its beautiful mountains. I need the track files to prepare the adventure.

*'''Marc''' : We are two guys from Denmark who are hoping to spend a couple of months on the GPT, if possible we will begin this december. We are eager to get our hands on the track files to help us plan which sections to hike. We have a great amount of respect for all the work you have done to make this adventure possible!

*'''Simoncashyt''' : Me and my friend are Planning to spend 2.5 months in the area this December. Hoping to get this Track file and review the trail in gis with other historic route databases to really understand the sections topography, climates and route options to explore off the track file.

*'''Bastian Klein''' : I am a university student from Germany and currently only have vague plans for my hike. With the Covid situation still going on its still to be determined when I will actually get to go hiking, but I think the track files will help me a lot with planing. Greatly appreciate the work done on the GPT manual !.

*'''Tim''' : We are a couple from Germany and around new year we plan to spend a few weeks in the area around GPT05 to GTP07. If possible we might return some time to see southern patagonia as well for multiple months.

*'''Léo''' : I plan to travel one year in Chile from sept 2021 ; I want to start from Puertomontt to reach Santiago (in a whole year, so taking my time), and hike some sections of the GPT ! I have not chosen which exacts sections yet.

*'''Nadfero''': Mi plan is to divide the route in two or three sections, and hike it in the 2021-2022-2023 summers. Obviously it all depends on the covid situation. There is no harm in planning!

*'''Cristóbal''': Estoy aprovechando la cuarentena para estudiar la ruta y comenzar a hacer tramos en la medida que se levanten las restricciones sanitarias este 2021 y 2022.

*'''Jo and Ty''': We are a couple planning to trekk for 3 months or so on the GPT. 2021/2022 depends on Covid 19 situation. Propably starting somewhere at GPT08. We are still in the beginning of planning. We require the track files for a lot of planning and for navigating on the trek it self. We are pretty excited!

*'''Molly og Melissa''': We are two friends, from Denmark. We plan to hike most parts of group B, C and D in December 2021 - February 2022

*'''Patagonico''': Years ago i did the ruta de los pioneros now i would like to complete the GPT in the next few years.

*'''Les Amériques au fil de l'eau''': We are a french couple, planning to use the trail from Puerto Montt to Santiago in 2021-2022 and to realize two short documentary films about wetlands and about the women of America
*'''O Bicho Geográfico''': Para fines de investigación científica, Abril de 2021.
*'''Max Nemeth''': November to Mid-March 21/22, sections to be determined. Thank you for the amazing work on this route!
*'''Memo mcrash''': GPT10 and GPT11. I plan to do it in March with some friends. We are very grateful for the work you have done. Thank you! Guillermo.
*'''nico142857''': GPT01 and GPT02. Im planning to hike these 2 sections on March, and gpx's routes surely will help a lot. Thanks!
*'''MauricioDM''': I am planning to hike the whole trail in parts, but I am not sure where to begin, the GPX will help . Thanks.
*'''Nico busch''': GPT33H. Planning on doing the Torres del Avellano hike. Thanks.
*'''Bjornsether''': GPT 01 to 40. I've been planning a long-distance hike in Chile for some time. February-April 2021 might allow me to spend time on the GPT.
*'''AJForno''':, GPT 01 to 40, I live in Chile and have done some sections, and plan to keep exploring, Thank you! Andres
*'''Thom&Miky''': Hi, we are two friends planning to walk from febrary to april 2021 and we will try to reach from south to north the GPT 14 to GPT 01. Thank you! Thomas and Michael

*'''WhatDoesMyHeartTellMe''': I am very much interested in GPT 01 to 40. I plan to trek in 2021-2022. This endeavor requires a tremendous amount of planning. I hope you can grant me the track files. Thanks very much!

*'''Tom Corbett''': Januray 2021, hiking and packrafting sections of GPT 26 to GPT 33.

*'''Rperezdearce ''': Hi, With my girlfriend we will leave the first days of Nov 2020 from Santiago with the intention of reaching GPT12, then we will try to continue further south.

*'''Tobi & Fang''': Hiking and potentially packrafting in the <s>2021/2022, 2022/2023</s> 2023/2024 season.

*'''Freek van Keulen (Freek)''': Plan to hike 2021-2022 season, starting preparations and research now

*'''Joaquin Munoz (jqnmunozdiaz)''': Plan to hike sections GPT32-40 southbound on summer 2020-2021 if covid allows. I will likely hike some northern sections as well.

*'''Quamen''': I am dreaming to hike the GPT01-16 and to hiking/packrafting GPT17-40 southbound this austral summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Frambues''': Starting at the end of 2020 if Covid lets. Not sure yet which part to do in one season, but probably start in Santiago.

*'''Ferdinand''': Hi, Ferdinand from germany, I'd like to hike southbound starting from GPT 05 from Dec 2020 - Apr 2021 and see how far I can get. The GPS files would help a lot planning everything more in detail, thanks!

*'''Víctor Valenzuela''': GTP 05-19: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 05-19 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Isaac Garza (Try431)''': Planning to hike southbound GPT season from ~December 2020 through ~March/April 2021 (weather/COVID permitting). At the moment, planning to do GPT17P - GPT39, and track files will be very helpful in planning out in more detail :)

*'''Pipers''': Hi, I'm from Valdivia, chile, and I am planning to hike or ride in my bike the closest parts of the route, as soon as coronavirus lockdown finishes

*'''Patagoniandreams''': Planning to hike the standard route soundbound, starting at GPT10 until GPT23 and looping back nordbound via the Huella Andina. Due to the Corona crisis we postpone this endeavour to the 2021-2022 season. The hike will be done in family. We will have a 6 year old girl and a 3 year old boy with us. We have 4 months. We have been doing GPT sections back in 2008 - 2010 - 2013.

*'''Olivier1''': Planning to hike the standard route northbound, starting at GPT 40 for the 2021-2022 season.

*'''David Brophy (d.brophy)''': Planning to hike the standard route GPT01-GPT40 over two seasons starting as soon as COVID permits. Will use a pack-raft for the second season.

*'''Peter Mican (ElCondor)''': Planning to hike the GPT in 2020/2021, starting at section 01 and hike as far south as I can, depending on the weather and situations on the track. I am planning to go solo but would be happy to join with a fellow hiker(s) ;-)

*'''jojohoughton''': Planning on hiking/packrafting southbound to section 40, starting either from section 1 or section 13 depending on the conditions. Will be exploring the GPT for the summer 2020-2021 season.

*'''Leonhard''': GTP 1-16: Planning on starting end of 2021 with GPT 1-16 and further on. Got one season to explore the GPT.

*'''Aligator''': GTP 40 to GPT32: Plannning to explore that part of the GPT in February (from 03/02) and March (flexible) with my girlfriend (we both live in Santiago). Thank you for the incredible work you've achieved gathering and updating all those information!

*'''ConnyPflaume''': GTP 14 & 15 or the area between lago Conguillo and Lago Tinquilco. We will start this weekend, 11.1.20 - would be nice we could be supplied with the map so shorthanded.

*'''felixrulz''': Will be in the Andes for around 4 months. Have already completed 3 sections, but looking to do more. Joined specifically for the Puyehue section (GPT 19)

*'''Kelly Swanson''': I plan to solo trek starting at GPT06 in January 2020, continuing till mid March.

*'''phil ro''': i will start in coihayque in mid-january and will head south for more than 4 weeks with a packraft.

*'''johannsteffen''': Going to make a backpack trip starting in February on Ushuaya and going to Bariloche in June.

*'''Claudio Miranda''': Starting from Santiago in January 2020 until April, planing to arrive at least to Chile Chico.

*'''Trinity''': Travelling to SA for 2 years and plan exploring Patagonia.

*'''pirre''': Starting in January 2020 on GPT32 and planning to hike south for 6-8 weeks. Thanks!

*'''Shn0rhelez''': Hi,I am Anton from Sofia,Bulgaria...me and my girlfriend are starting from sec6 in the middle of January...we have around four months...thank you for your remarkable work!!!

*'''Gatodelmonte''': Starting on 2 January from Santiago, planning to hike South for about 45 days & exit near Pucon (sections 1 to 15)

*'''Fedepatagon''': Like to pack raft on the area between Bariloche-Osorno and P.N Los Alerces

*'''Vincent Paquet''': My girlfriend and I are planning to spend 3 weeks walking from december 18 2019 to Jan 10 2020. We're still selecting the exact sections. Cheers!!

*'''Tmattson425''': Plan for this year is to solo trek sections 1 through 19 (southbound) starting in mid-January 2020. I'm an American expat living in Buenos Aires and plan on returning in following seasons to complete the GPT, try packrafting, and explore alternate routes. Extremely excited an grateful that this trek is possible. Thank you!

*'''SalomeS''': Planning for a 6 month trip with my husband starting in Nov/Dec 2020. Planning to hike the sections 40 to 16. We would be incredibly grateful to receive the gps track files. Thank you!

*'''Ianhikes'''* Leaving for Chile in 1 week and looking to spend a month on GPT hiking southbound.

*'''zc0rp10''': Hi! Planning and preparing for an extended hike together with two friends from November 2020 - Feb 2021.

*'''ELLI''': together with a friend we plan to hike the sections of the main route but in opposite direction starting in the area around Lago viedma in first days of January 2020, we have approx. 4 month time

*'''gorskial''': plan to bike/packraft along the carretera austral from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins with hiking side trips. Jan/feb 2020

*'''pitney''': Solo hiking GPT sections 6-22 Southbound beginning early January, 2020.

*'''dirtmonger''': GPT sections 1-24; planning underway for an immersion solo hike ‘20 November to ‘21 February.

*'''bob451''': Planning on solo hiking 2 or 3 sections of the GPT northbound March/April 2019.

*'''Mgabenesch''' : Planning on hiking most parts of the GPT, starting in Ushuaïa then going North. I have on year off. Starting Dec 2019

*'''Family Size''': Planning on hiking parts of the GPT southbound. Starting end of November 2019.

*'''shaunchurch''': Hope to solo hike/packraft a few sections southbound. Section 15 or 17 in Dec 2019. Then maybe a couple more from among sections 21-31 in Jan and Feb 2020.

*'''iank''':2 months jan and feb 2020. Hope to hike isla navarino, cirque of huemuls and then cochrane to chile chico. More northerly secions maybe 2021.

*'''dsmit3000''': Solo hiker planning on hiking GPT40-31 northbound November-January 2019.

*'''2As''': We plan to walk in Chile and Argentina from mid October 2019 to mid march 2020. We don't have precisely planned our trip but the root of our trip is to go by foot through Patagonia and also discover Chile and his people and culture.
*'''A pat''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT (Need to confirm but we are interesting in sections 08-22 and 35- 40) from January to early March 2020.
*'''Aceestrin''': We'll be exploring for 4 weeks in Los Lagos region December-January.
*'''Andrealopezb''': I plan on doing individual sections for the time being, mostly between Santiago-El Maule
*'''annbrnn''': Heya, a friend and I are planning on hiking several sections of the GPT beginning end of December 2019 and are currently in the process of determining our route.
*'''AlexEdge''': Hi, i am planning to hike the lower sections of this route with a couple friends, possibly febuary 2020. thank you!
*'''Arno507''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting fom November/December 2019 till early April 2020.
*'''Birdy ''': I plan to mostly walk from Lake Titicaca to Ushuaia starting November 2019.
*'''David''': Hello!! This is David from Barcelona and I'm planning to walk through the Patagonia for 4 month from January 2020. I would love to do all de GPT, but I'm not sure if it's too ambitious... For sure, I'll try it!! :-) I would really appreciate if you can provide me the gps track files. Many thanks!!
*'''Dubrovskiy''': 2 people, January 2020, Foot hiking southern parts, likely around GPT40-33.
*'''Edwinb''': I will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to cherry pick parts of the GPT and mix it with other trekking, basically like I did last year. Always interested in a bit of exploring, providing it doesn't get to extreme!
*'''Hendrik Niehaus''': We arrive in Chile early Oktober 2019. From November until January we plan to be on the GPT. Due to the recommendations of the hikers manual we are mainly interested in section 5-16. However, plans might still change and are not too fixed yet. Thank you in advance!
*'''Herman van Horssen''': We plan to do section 47 to 69 of the GPT in 2020.
*'''johansonst333''': Hi! I am planning the sections 30 - 40 during this hiking season, would be incredibly grateful to have the GPS files for further research and planning. Thank you in advance!
*'''Jose Barros''' Hello !Im jose from Santiago de Chile, i will do the sections from Conquillio national park to Puyehue national park, its aprox. 15 days in January, i think it will be great ! If you can provide the track files i will be very thankfull.
*'''Jose Roman''': Hi, my plan is to several sections by bike or hiking staring September 2019 until Abril 2020.
*'''JUNHUI SON''': Hi, I'm from South Korea, I plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in September 2019 till November.
*'''Kendon''': I cycled Patagonia many year ago and have always wanted to return for an extended walk through this wonderful area. I am in preliminary stages of my planning and thank you for your efforts in providing such a great resource. I am looking at the 2020 summer.
*'''Martín H.I.''': Hello, I´m planning to make an attempt to hike from sections GPT01 to GPT22 this summer from December 2019 to February 2020, still deciding on the exact sections, but southbound is my direction. I´m a chilean 25 year old architect who will humbly try to hike this unique trail. Thank you Jan for the amazing creation.
*'''Martin Lizondo''': I will be hiking southbound from Anticura (GPT20) to El Chaltén (GPT39), between December 2019 and February 2020. It's my second season in the GPT, after hiking from Santiago (GPT01) to Anticura (GPT19) in 2018-2019.
*'''martinahaller''': We will be arriving in Chile in Nov and plan to hike parts of the GPT during the next 6 Month, starting in Santiago.
*'''Maturin''': Hi, I am currently figuring out the details to hike GPT06 to GPT08 from the 27th of December 2019 until mid January. I will be doing the Horseriding tour before. I speak fluent spanish and the idea is to go southbound. Thank you!
*'''Matúš Lašan''': We plan to do as much as possible from December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''msantelli''': Hi, Melissa, plan to trek sections 05-22 taking a chance to start mid-late Nov. of ‘19 may need to backtrack and cut a few sections out, if rivers can’t be ford/crossed-flexible schedule
*'''Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck''': We plan to investigate new packrafting and hiking routes in more remote areas between Puerto Montt and El Chalten without making a single long traverse (GPT21 to GPT40, GPT90P to GPT 92P). We will depart in November 2019 and plan to finish in February 2020. Experienced packrafts may join us for these investigations.
*'''Lauric Olrik''': We plan to do several sections of the GPT starting from November 2019, we have a whole year off.
*'''Lea Geibel''': Hi, my plan is to do several sections of the GPT starting fom October/November 2019 until beginning of January 2020 and need to figure out which ones are suitable for such an early start.
*'''Linda''': Hi, I am planning to hike alone southbound the GPT from beginning of December 2019 to mid-February 2020, probably from GPT06 to GPT22, but I am still studying the routes and the sections. I spoke quite good spanish, at least, it will come back there, practicing ! Thank you !
*'''Oreste Marquis''': Hello, i'm planning to hike sections 06-22 and 32-40 if time allows it. My trip will be from January to Abril 2020.
*'''Sanita Heinz''': We plan to do section 1 to 40 of the GPT in December 2019 till March 2020.
*'''Selma''': We are planning to packraft some sections of the GPT during our stay in Nov/Dez '19
*'''Staci Garcia''': Hello, I am planning on doing several sections of the GPT in 2020. I am still in research on what sections.
*'''TrashPanda''': Hi, we plan to do several sections from the end of November 2019 till February 2020.
*'''tom347''': Hola, I plan to do part of parts 1 to 40 with a friend, starting mid october. We will be hitchhiking the parts that are not recomended in particular months. We will be travelling for aproximately 2 months. Gracias.
*'''Tombartlett''': Hello I am planning on hiking many sections over a three month period from November 2019 to February 2020.
*'''Wanderwood18 ''': We plan to make it to El Chalten/Fitz Roy in one season from Santiago. This means I’ll probably skip recommended sections to skip/do what I need to do to make it. I’m flexible, we will see how it goes. My girlfriend, America, and I are planning on starting around Nov. 10th….
*'''LieberWeiter''' Hi, I do not know yet if I ever dare to walk the GPT but meanwhile I would like to plan therefore!
*'''Jarek Wątroba''' Hey, I will spend several months in Patagonia starting in Jan 2024. The information you provided in the Hiker's Guide is already immensely helpful, but the track files would make planning our route so much easier. Thanks.
*'''Wolke7net''' Hi, could you please send me the track without packrafting. Thanks!

*'''''DoloresMonika''''' Hi,my name is Dorota and I am from Poland. I ahve a plan to start from Santiago de Chile at 1 of December 2024. I can pass 4.5 months on the trail . Thanks for preparing this manual and description of trail.
*'''''Randomuser''''' Hi, my name is Victor and my wife and I are planning on spending 3 months in Patagonia starting Jan 25. We are planning on picking some sections to explore and will focus on the land portions, thanks!

'''wikiexplora'''