Cambios

Anyway, on HA, the trackfiles are a bit wrong for an important turn off -39.00634, -71.30802. At that point you will see two trails, leave the road and go up. We met some bikers here, only people we met for the next two days. Path up is not visible, but the forest is open and you go basically straight up. When you reach low lying beech shrubbery, the path reapers and takes you to the saddle. Down below, at the turn off, there is a creek if you follow the main road for a little bit, you will may want to fill up on water. From the saddle we opted to follow the ridge NE from HA. It is spectacular and while steep, no hands are needed to advance. With a packraft and 10 days of food it was slow. We slept near a seasonal lake around -39.03013, -71.28361, very beautiful. Day 3 - Ridge above the next valley to Lago Ñorquinco - 15 km.We followed the ridge for two km and then discovered a recently maintained trail down to the valley here: -39.05003, -71.28180. We took it. It took us down through beech shrubbery to here -39.05142, -71.28621. Then it kind of petered out but the forest was open enough for us to easily reach the HA in the valley. The HA is quite a wide path that must have been made with a digger some time back, but it is not used by cars up to -39.08562, -71.30652. We originally wanted to stay on the ridge longer and go down from here: -39.08760, -71.29079. That is open terrain and looking from below, it looked possible, but not wholly certain. However, we would advise to join the ridge straight from Moquehue as suggested previously and get down by this trail we discovered. We followed the HA to Ruta Provincial 11, but it might be advisable to cut to the NW corner of the lake from here: -39.11217, -71.30914 to avoid roadwalking and a detour: Arroyo Nompehuen must be forded anyway and while cold, does not have too much water (knee deep) and there seems to be a path on satellite in the suitable direction and the landscape is reasonably open. We put our packraft in here -39.12056, -71.31909. It is a campsite where noone was in attendance, otherwise day-access is about 4 thousand pesos per person, so you might want to reach the lake farther, should be possible, use OSM and satellite map. There are showers and toilets and trashbin though. It was a bit windy (from West) and rain was coming, so despite the small size of the lake and low fetch, whitecap waves developed. Their direction was suitable for us and we crossed the lake along the southern shore to find a very wind sheltered camp next to a creek behind a bush here: -39.12056, -71.31909.  Day 4 - Lago Ñorquinco - to Arroyo Calfiquiera - 19 kmThe next day we padled to -39.14420, -71.29466 and joined HA from there. According to OSM, the lake can be hiked around from both directions. West side seems preferable. HA starts to be marked here. It is actually mostly a very old eroded road made with a digger probably decades back. It has overwhelmingly the characteristics of a trail. Cascada Coloco is very pretty. Once you reach the pass, where there is a puesto and cows, the trail turns into a road that is very rarely used, it seemed. Vivac Pampa de Castro would probably give you shelter in rain and is open enough for hanta virus not to be a worry. We reached Arroyo Calfiquiera here: -39.22814, -71.27044 (before that it is a wild stream). However, the creek is overgrown just after that, luckily there were two locals living there who were fishing and helped us carry our fully loaded packraft to -39.22933, -71.26945. There was one more narrow and almost overgrown section shortly after (-39.23189, -71.26735), so you might want to put in just after that (follow the 4x4 tracks visible on satellite). From then on, apart from two low lying bridges, no portages were needed (we shortly walked our boat once or twice through some narrow braided passages). We camped at -39.23857, -71.25184 just before a class 1 rapid (that turned out to be the biggest on the river). Tomáš left his scissors from his Victorinox card there, you might find them at the edge of grass.  Day 5 - Arroyo Calfiquiera to Vivac Malalco Chico - 18 kmIn the morning, the rapid turned out to be dangerous only for one's knees. The bridges are here: -39.24453, -71.24944 and -39.24874, -71.21634. There is a creek with fresh water flowing in at -39.24601 -71. 21842. With all the packing and unpacking, it is for sure quicker to walk on HA (which leaves the road for a trail in the valley for at least a part of its length). However, packrafting is recommended as part of the arroyo flows through an aracauria forrest and all along you get nice views of surrounding mountains. It is also good practice for beginners, we thought, being beginners ourselves. Down at the lake, we ferried across an American who said she would climb a mountain north of the lake nearby using a trail disclosed by a local. We did not packraft across the lake and instead got out at the picnic area at the west end of the lake (small stream but walk up a bit bcs there is an outhouse in the stream) and then after lunch made a shortcut to the ridge. After about 500 metres along the lake on the road, we turned right uphill and soon found a trail used by horses recently here: -39.25142, -71.19640. It was easy to follow and joined HA here -39.25310, -71.18395. It would be great if somebody could investigate where in the valley (presumably further up) it originates. There are a few puestos high up on this side so more trails are expected. The HA itself then crosses a very attractive (old volcanic) plateau. It is probably (one of) the nicest part of the HA that we have seen so far (out of a half). We camped at a valley designated by the KMZ files as a bivauc and it is a good camping spot, but do not expect any facilities or people.

Natalie devised an idea where you would CC from Day 3 - Ridge above the next valley to Lago Ñorquinco - 15 km. We followed the ridge for 2km and then discovered a recently maintained trail down to the valley here: -39.2568705003, -71.23304 onto 28180. We took it. It took us down through beech shrubbery to here -39.05142, -71.28621. Then it kind of petered out but the ridgeforest was open enough for us to easily reach the HA in the valley. The HA is quite a wide path that must have been made with a digger some time back, traverse Cerro Rucachoroi but it is not used by cars up to -39.08562, -71.30652. We originally wanted to stay on the ridge longer and join HA go down from here: -39.3109008760, -71.20943. It all looked like well passable CC29079, but we never got a good view of were very much unsure it would work, so considering the peak itself wind and are unsure if grey weather we were in, this new found trail down was a blessing. We followed the HA to Ruta Provincial 11, but it can might be sidehilled or crossed. Some advisable to cut to the NW corner of the sublake from here: -peaks obstructing 39.11217, -71.30914 to avoid roadwalking and a detour. There seems to be a path on satellite in the view were rather verticalsuitable direction and the landscape is reasonably open. Arroyo Nompehuen must be forded anyway (knee deep on main road). We put our packraft in here -39.12056, but ridges that -71.31909. It is a campsite where noone was in attendance, otherwise day-access is about 4 thousand pesos per person, so you might want to reach the lake farther. There are showers and toilets and a trashbin at this camp though. It was a bit windy (from West) and rain was coming, so despite the small size of the lake and low fetch, whitecap waves developed. Their direction was suitable for us and we saw were passablecrossed the lake along the southern shore to find a very wind sheltered camp next to a creek behind a bush here: -39.12056, -71.31909. 

Day 6 4 - Vivac Malalco Chico to Lago Quillèn  Lago Ñorquinco - 21 to Arroyo Calfiquiera - 19 km.Going down is straightforwardThe next day we paddled to -39. However14420, -71.29466 and joined HA from there are some fallen branches. About 200 metres According to OSM, the lake can be hiked around from both directions. West side seems preferable. HA starts to be marked here. It is actually mostly a very old eroded road made with a digger probably decades back. It has overwhelmingly the characteristics of altitude above a trail. Cascada Coloco is very pretty. Once you reach the valleypass, you hit where there is a creek puesto and cows, the trail turns into a road that is very rarely used, it seemed. Vivac Pampa de Castro would probably give you will cross several times downstreamshelter in rain and is open enough for hanta virus not to be a worry. After crossing We reached Arroyo Malalco (Calfiquiera which looks great for packrafting, but do your research), a local from Comunidad Laf Lefiman offered us a cabaña with Starlink internet for 60 thousand,but it was too early so we went onplanned to paddle here: -39. When we reached the lake22814, we saw a family with a paddleboard and kayaks -71.27044 (before that we saw the previous day at Lago Rucachoroiit is a wild stream). Park rangers The creek is overgrown just after that, luckily there were nowhere two locals living there who were fishing and helped us carry our fully loaded packraft to be seen-39. It 22933, -71.26945. After that there was quite windy one more narrow and waves looked bigalmost overgrown section (-39.23189, -71.26735), so we used our packraft you might want to cross put in just after that (follow the outlet 4x4 tracks visible on satellite). From then on, apart from the lake and two low lying bridges, no portages were needed (we shortly walked along the beach to join MR that runs along the southern side of the lake until our boat once or twice through some narrow braided passages). We camped at -39.4308823857, -71.2848, where we camped. We met 25184 just before a group of people fishing there but they soon class 1 rapid (that turned out to be the biggest on the river). Tomáš lefthis scissors from his Victorinox card there, you might find them at the edge of grass. 

Day 7 5 - Lago Quillèn Arroyo Calfiquiera to Somewhere in bamboo  Vivac Malalco Chico - 13 18 km.We started early (aiming for sunrise In the morning, we managed the rapid turned out to be in the boat 45 minutes after it) and paddled on lake Quillèn to reach old buildings dangerous only for one's knees. The bridges are here: -39.4279624453, -71.4247424944 and -39. They were 24874, -71.21634. There is a creek with fresh water flowing in at -39.24601 -71. 21842. With all the packing and unpacking, it is for sure quicker to walk on HA (probably recentishlywhich leaves the road for a trail in the valley for at least a part of its length) abandoned border police station. However, packrafting is recommended as far as part of the arroyo flows through an Aracauria forest and all along you get nice views of surrounding mountains. It is also good practice for beginners, we could tellthought, being beginners ourselves. The Down at the lake had some waves already in , we ferried across an American who said she would climb a mountain north of the morning but they were quite managable lake nearby using a trail disclosed by a local. We did not packraft across the lake and it took us about 4 hours to paddle instead got out at the 13 km or so. Along picnic area at the way, west end of the lake (small stream for drinking but walk up a bit bcs there would be places is an outhouse near the stream). After lunch made a shortcut to camp, especially the ridge. After about 500 metres along the lake on the beach road, we turned right uphill and soon found a trail used by horses recently here: -39.4216425142, -71.36282 where there is fresh water19640. After the police station, we got onto a beach It was easy to follow and joined HA here: -39.4359325310, -71.4150818395. It would be great if somebody could investigate where in the valley (presumably further up) it originates. There are a few puestos high up on this side so more trails are expected. The HA itself then crosses a very attractive (old volcanic) plateau. It is probably (one of) the nicest part of the HA that we have seen so far (out of a half)(Nat still thinks near Ache Niyeu was the best HA section). We cleared camped at a place for valley designated by the KMZ files as a tent bivauc and entry into the forest, did not check for water but satellite says there it is a creek outlet about 50 m NW good camping spot, but do not expect any facilities or people.Natalie devised an idea where you would CC from therehere: -39. Then 25687, -71.23304 onto the "fun" part startedridge, at about 15traverse Cerro Rucachoroi and join HA here:00-39. Natalie's many many warnings about the forest looking impenetrable turned out to be true31090, -71.20943. It is an ancient Chilean beech (Roble/Coigue) forest with all looked like well passable CC, but we never got a completely native understory good view of many shrubs but mainly just walls of bamboo. In the grand scheme peak itself and are unsure if it can be sidehilled or crossed. Some of thingsthe sub-peaks obstructing the view were rather vertical, if but ridges that we had stuck to the creek bed we would have made the crossing in two (long) dayssaw were passable. But because we left the creekbed several times, this 5km crossing took us 3 daysUp for an exploration.

At the beginningDay 6 - Vivac Malalco Chico to Lago Quillèn - 21 km. Going down is straightforward. However, while we were not yet on a steep slope, we were moving at a healthy speed there are some fighting of maybe 400m an hourfallen branches. We found About 200 metres of altitude above the valley, you hit a creek here: -39that you will cross several times downstream.43977After crossing Arroyo Malalco (which looks great for packrafting, -71.41793 that allowed but do your research), a local from Comunidad Laf Lefiman offered us to walk without obstruction a cabaña with Starlink internet for about 15m. It 60 thousand,but it was turning into a canyon, which we did not like, too early so we continued to the east of itwent on. Little did When we know how foolish that was! In reached the beginning, as it got steeperlake, we would sometimes find an area full of flat dead woody bambo saw a family with a paddleboard and kayaks that would allow us to jump about twenty metres before fighting we saw the green bamboo againprevious day at Lago Rucachoroi. As we progressed (at a speed of maybe 250m per hour)Park rangers were nowhere to be seen. It was quite windy and waves looked big, so we noticed we were on a side of a steep canyon made by erosion used our packraft to cross the outlet from water running down the slope. Details of lake and walked along the satellite map revealed beach to join MR that we were two such ravines removed from runs along the main creek. We crossed one over a log, that was maybe 10 m long and was maybe 6 m high above the lowest point southern side of the canyonlake until -39. It was getting dark so we cleared a somewhat even spot for a camp (sorry forest)43088, -71. After six hours and some zigzagging caused by the canyons2848, we were about 1 km from where we startedcamped. Survey without We met a backpack (which makes moving around about three times easier) suggested we might be able to rejoin the main canyon the next day which was about 100 m far (and thirty metres below)group of people fishing there but they soon left. 

Day 8 7 - Lago Quillèn to Somewhere in bamboo to dried creekbed - 1 13 km.New survey We started early (aiming for sunrise) and paddled on lake Quillèn to reach old buildings here: -39.42796, -71.42474. They were a (probably recentishly) abandoned border police station, as far as we could tell. The lake had some waves already in the morning made but they were quite manageable and it took us go backdown as about 4 hours to paddle the main canyon's wall seemed like a landslide and almost vertical13 km or so. We started to follow down a ravine between us and Along the main creekway, hoping it there would join itbe places to camp, especially on the beach here: -39. After three hours42164, 400 m of distance and two failed surveys in -71.36282 where there is fresh water. After the direction of the main canyonpolice station, we finally manged to make got onto a crossing. A rule for heavy duty bushbashing seems to bebeach here: always follow the water-39. It is not exactly quicker43593, but psychologically being able to see more than 5 metres in advance -71.41508. We cleared a place for a tent and entry into the forest, we did not having to constantly put branches check for water but satellite says there is a creek outlet about 50 m NW from onethere. Then the "fun" part started, at about 15:00. Natalie's face is a tremendeous benefitmany many warnings about the forest looking impenetrable turned out to be true. It also helps is an ancient Chilean beech (Roble/Coigue) forest with orientation and hopefully provides a possible passagecompletely native understory of many shrubs but mainly just walls of bamboo. We In the grand scheme of course set a turn-back time by which we would turn back things, if we did not reach had stuck to the pass, but (Tomáš not being creek bed we would have made the responsible onecrossing in two (long), days. But because we failed to heed it after deciding we actually still had food for three more somewhat fasting left the creekbed several times, this 5km crossing took us 3 days. We started to go up At the creek beginning, while we were not yet on a steep slope, we were moving at a healthy speed of about 200 metres maybe 400m an hour, so after about 5-6 hours, we managed to get under the place where we slept. We agreed that we could have probably gone down there, saving us 5 hours of found a detour, the canyon walls being steep, but in some places having enough bamboo to provide good (but never truly certain) holds. At about creek here: -39.4477943977, -71.41624, there 41793 that allowed us to walk without obstruction for about 15m. It was turning into a confluence of two canyonscanyon, and which we decided to go through a steep dry vegetation-wise more or less open slope to the right . After about 100mdid not like, so we traversed back left continued to the main creekeast of it. It Little did we know how foolish that was now six in the evening. Still hoping to reach the pass (hey, just 500m of distance!) and facing somewhat overgrown waterfall in In the main ravine roughly -39.45067beginning, -71.41624as it got steeper, we would sometimes find an area full of flat dead woody bambo that would allow us to jump about twenty metres before fighting the green bamboo again opted to go right, onto an even steeper slope. Somehow with the help of trees growing there, As we reached progressed (at a beech-bush combined with bamboo understory, slowing us down to speed of maybe 50 m an 250m per hour. After an hour or so), we found noticed we were on a ravine side of a steep canyon made by erosion from water running down the slope. Details of the satellite map revealed that we partially followed and traversed back to were two such ravines removed from the main creek. It still had some waterfalls We crossed one over a log, that turned out to be scalable was maybe 10 m long and after 100 was maybe 6 m (our speed returning to a solid 250 m per hour), it turned dryhigh above the lowest point of the canyon. It now being 9 PM, was getting dark so we built cleared a somewhat even spot for a camp inside of the creekbed(sorry forest). Looking back, especially After six hours and some zigzagging caused by the second diversion was canyons, we were about 1 km from where we started. Survey without a mistake and backpack suggested we should have stayed in might be able to rejoin the main canyon (the waterfall next day which was probably scalable with passing backpacks about 100 m far (and suchthirty metres below). The variety of plant and insect species that live in and around the creekbed was amazing. Luckily very little tabanos or other obnoxious insects, which was true for all these 5 km. 

Day 9 8 - Dried creekbed to somewhere Somewhere in bamboo II to dried creekbed - 3 1 km.In New survey in the morningmade us go backdown as the main canyon's wall seemed like a landslide and almost vertical. We started to follow down a ravine between us and the main creek, Tomáš went exploring hoping it would join it. After three hours, 400 m of distance and found two failed surveys in the other side direction of the pass much preferable, so around tenmain canyon, we set off finally managed to continuemake a crossing. After an easy 40-minute 300m traverse A rule for heavy duty bushbashing seems to be: always follow the pass water (Lanin looks impressive even through Nat doesn’t agree because she says that’s how many accidents happen on the trees), Pacific Northwest. But in this forest the character of the valley changed water is a lotbetter option). Almost open beech forrest The water way is not exactly quicker, but psychologically being able to see more than 5 metres in advance and relatively regular creekbed (not having to constantly fight branches from one's face is a tremendous benefit. It also helps with orientation and hopefully provides a creekpossible passage. We of course set a turn-back time by which we would turn back if we did not reach the pass. However, I (Tomáš) enabled am not the most responsible at times and convinced us both that we forgo the turn around time because we still had food for three more somewhat fasting days. So onwards we went.We started to reach go up the creek at a speed of about 200 metres an hour, so after about 5-6 hours, we managed to get under the place where we slept... We agreed that we could have probably gone down there, saving us 5 hours of a detour, the canyon walls being steep, but in some places having enough bamboo to provide good (but never truly certain) holds. At about -39.4596444779, -71.41716 in 41624, there was a superb speed confluence of almost 600m/hour. From theretwo canyons, and we followed the river decided to go through a dense old rather open, steep and amazing canopyslope to the right . At After about 400 m/ hour100m, we eventually got traversed back left to a 20 m cascading the main creek. It was now six in the evening. Still hoping to reach the pass (not verticalhey, just 500m of distance!) and facing somewhat overgrown waterfall here: in the main ravine roughly -39.4708845067, -71.4177541624. To its left, we managed We again opted to cut go right but this time it was more of a path scramble due to steepness. Above this scramble we reached a beech-bush combined with our machetebamboo understory, passing each other our backpacks on the not-entirely vertical somewhat crumbly climb-slowing us downto maybe 50 m an hour (Bamboo intertwined with concrete like twister sticks is the worst combination). Unfortunately After an hour or so, we do not think our holds will last long as found a ravine that we scaled it down in mainly mud partially followed and fragile rock (rope or bamboo bushing walkaround should do)traversed back to the main creek. Afterwards, It still had some waterfalls that turned out to be scalable and after 100 m (our speed again decreased returning to about 200 a solid 250 m an per hour), overcoming many logjams and much smaller waterfallsit turned dry. We camped around -39.47449It now being 9 PM, -71.41901we built a camp inside of the creekbed. Natalie somehow left her insoles there. All Looking back, especially the scrambling second diversion was a mistake and we should have done both up and down were mangeable stayed in the canyon (T4 to T5 on SAC scalethe waterfall was probably scalable with passing backpacks and such), though a rope . The variety of 10 plant and insect species that live in and around the creekbed was amazing. Luckily very little tabanos or 15 m or so would have been at certian moments quite usefulother obnoxious insects, which was true for all these 5 km. 

Day 10 9 - Somewhere Dried creekbed to somewhere in bamboo II to Paso Mamuil Mamal - 17 3 km.In the morning, we took three hours mostly following Tomáš went exploring and found the creek or bashing bamboo alongisde it other side of the pass much preferable, so around ten, we set off to continue. After an easy 40-minute 300m traverse to reach the shore (yay!)pass, where Tomáš somehow left his beloved trusty headphonesthe character of the valley changed a lot and walking became easier, a nice Christmas present: ).The almost open beech forest and a relatively regular creekbed (with water) enabled us to reach -39.4827645964, -71.4254441716 in a superb speed of almost 600m/hour. Should you find themFrom there, give them we followed the river through a decent burial. We inflated our packraft dense old and paddled across Lago Tromen (which offers tremendeous views) in amazing canopy. At about 2400 m/ hour,5 hours we eventually got to outlet of Rio Malleoa 20 m cascading (not vertical) waterfall here: -39.47088, meeting people again after several days-71. Rio Malleo has probably too much of a drop to be packrafted safely but lookes tempting to Tomáš41775. After To its left, we managed to cut a long lunchpath with our machete, eating passing each other our backpacks on the last of not-entirely vertical somewhat crumbly climb-down. Unfortunately we do not think our holds will last food, long as we crossed the river scaled it down in mainly mud and walked along the OSM trail to the National Park office near the borderfragile rock (rope or bamboo bashing walkaround should do). Nobody paid attention to us thereAfterwards, so we walked our speed again decreased to the Argentinian border controlabout 200 m an hour, from which we got a hitch all the way to Pucon, seeing Clara hitchhiking overcoming many logjams and much smaller waterfalls. We camped around the end of the Villarica Traverse-39. Pucon did not 47449, -71.41901. Natalie somehow left her insoles there. All the scrambling we have Tomáš's favourite icecream like last year done both up and in general did not feel as good as previous years (cherries down were perfect thoughmanageable (T4 to T5 on SAC scale), though a rope of 10 or 15 m or so would have been at certain moments quite useful. We were very glad used our leashes, straps and maybe somehow euphoric we made it carabineers for lowering our backpacks. 

Day 10 - Somewhere in bamboo II to Paso Mamuil Mamal - 17 km.In the morning, we took three hours mostly following the creek or bashing bamboo alongside it to reach the shore (yay!), where Tomáš somehow left his beloved trusty headphones: -39.48276, -71.42544. Should you find them, give them a decent burial. We inflated our packraft and paddled across Lago Tromen (which offers tremendous views) in about 2,5 hours to outlet of Rio Malleo, meeting people again after several days. Rio Malleo has probably too much of a drop to be packrafted safely but looks tempting to Tomáš. After a long lunch, eating the last meal we had, we crossed the river and walked along the OSM trail to the National Park office near the border. Nobody paid attention to us there, so we walked to the Argentinian border control, from which we got a hitch all the way to Pucon, seeing Clara hitchhiking around the end of the Villarica Traverse. Pucon did not have Tomáš's favourite icecream like last year and in general did not feel as good as previous years (cherries were perfect though). We were very glad and maybe somehow euphoric we made it . Overall, the forest was incredible. However, if we broke a limb or worse, we doubt help would come, so only do this if you are prepared for self-evacuation or face the consequences. We are however convinced that with good navigation, and staying mainly in the creek, it could take two long days to do the BB traverse, one for going up the pass and one down. The BB has difficulty 7 in GPT terms.If one chooses to go NOBO it might suck extra with the extra weight…