GPT71 (Espolon)

List of all GPT sections

How to a add new entry

You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2024/25

• 2026 Mar 6 to Mar 12 / 5 hiking days, 1 zero day / NOBO / Hiking / RR / Michael and Kasia

QUICK NOTES: A really beautiful and adventurous section. We did it NOBO and think that was the better way to go for multiple reasons, the first being the descent from the Pass 58.6 was brutal, and though we generally prefer doing steep up rather than down, in this case we think it was better. A second reason was that toward the north end of the trail there is a lot, lot, LOT of mud, and it was nice to have that going out rather than coming in. Finally, the end for us was a long stretch of gravel road usually going gently down, and it was much nicer to have light packs on a gentle descent rather than full packs on a constant incline.

CAMPS:

• Night 1: -43.13424, -71.96025 (in a grassy field, multiple flat places for tents, water is about 150 m away at the arroyo, a nice spot)

• Night 2: 43.00693, -72.08890 (just off the road on the old GPT track, a flatish spot for one tent, no real wind protection, water access was about 100 m away through a gate down at the river, recommend if looking for camping around here to go a little further on the path, better spots before the trail reconnects with the road)

• Nights 3 & 4: -42.95073, -72.15243 (right after ford, flat side for two tents, okay wind protection, easy water access, we really liked this spot)

• Night 5: -42.92732, -72.22865 (space for 1 to 2 tents, just after the last of a series of fords, water access is about 120 m away at the river, in dirt, not an ideal spot)

• Night 6: -42.91191, -72.30991 (flattish space for one tent, right on the side of the trail, minimal wind protection, water about 150 m away at the river, emergency camp, not recommended)

Day 1 - Mar 6th

We left Futalefu at around 09:00. The beginning of the route is just a gravel road, then a dirt road. There was a steep up and then a clear path that wound its way through the hills above Lago Leal. At (-43.16163, -71.92896) there was a grassy hillside that overlooked the lake, a little ways away from a puesto. It looked like a nice place to camp. Two guys who were trailrunning SOBO came by and we chatted for a minute. You can actually take the ferry across Lago Espolon and hike SOBO back to town as a nice long day hike. At the north end of Lago Leal the track file goes through the property of Settler {71} [11.2+0.2], but there is a marked trail that goes more northwest and hugs the hillside. We followed that path instead. We decided to call it early and camped in a field in the valley between Settler 11.2 and Settler 13.0. There was a path down to the stream to collect water.

Day 2 - Mar 7th

No one was around at Settler 13 before the ascent, but the building had “El Refugio” painted on the side. The rest of the trail around Lago Las Rosas was in surprisingly good shape. It seems to be a maintained trail. There were a few gates to go through after coming down. At km 16.9 there was a bridge over Rio del Nordeste. On the far side there was an open grass field. It would be a good camping spot, though right on the road. There was water access at the bridge. Then the road climbs up before heading steeply down. At posta de salud at km 20.4 there was an open Starlink network. Transfer rate was slow but enough to check the weather. Across the street there is a small shop that had a sign open during the summer Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 16:00 to 18:30. They didn't have much, but it could be good for a snack if you happen by there at the right time. The road is a gravel road, and like many gravel roads in Chile, it has fencing on both sides a lot of the time. It is still possible to find places to camp, but it is not so easy.

Day 3 - Mar 8th

We got a late start. A little further on we found a couple other places that were campable and nicer than where we had stayed. Based on topo I had thought it might be possible to camp around Settler 37.5, but that was not the case. It was a steep hill heading down to the river. The track file take you uphill and passing through the property, however just over the bridge if you go right instead of left there is a road that comes back around and reconnects with the track file. Both routes work. Though the track file looks like it is going on a trail, it is still a gravel road, and there are settlers all the way back. We met the settler that lives furthest out as he was walking home and he walked with us. Just before the first crossing of the Rio Espolon, he turned left onto a footpath and led us upriver for some time, then there was a bridge that crossed over the river and directly to his house. He told us how to get to the next crossing, but cautioned us to be careful not to get lost as it happens there with hikers somewhat frequently. We thanked him and carried on. Fairly quickly we understood why he said that. There is a very clear looking path, but that goes the wrong direction. We half CC’d half bush bashed until we found the second crossing at (-42.96028, -72.15236). There the river was mid-thigh and fairly fast current. On the other side we climbed up a steep hill and through a wooden gate. Just there on the other side was a good campsite. We managed to get set up just as it was getting dark.

Day 4 - Mar 9th

Zero day to wait over rain.

Day 5 - Mar 10th

The path up to the pass was generally visible and it wasn't that strenuous, though it was often muddy. The forest was really beautiful and felt very much like a temperate rainforest. It would be possible to camp at the puesto in the saddle half way up, km 46.3 (-42.94528, -72.17471). There was flat space for probably two tents, and there is a stream right there as well. This was also an unmarked ford. We switched to water shoes and kept them on for the next 2.5 km or so. There were several other fords, and most of the terrain in the saddle is mallin, so there was a lot of mud and it was nice not to worry about the boots. Shortly before the path starts to head uphill for the actual pass there were also places where camping would be possible. The path up to the pass again went through some really beautiful forest. There was a group of cows there and they started walking toward the pass as we arrived, and they basically guided us along the route to the pass. At the top was another mallin to navigate. We stopped on the pass for lunch. The way down was very steep for the first km or so. The ground was very soft in a lot of places so we weren't sliding, but it was still slow going. In a few places we just walked directly down the stream bed. There were a few places along the way where the track file was not accurate. It seemed like erosion and landslides had required reroutes. With careful looking we were always able to find a good path. We got down quite late and there was a series of about 4 or 5 unmarked fords between km 52.3 and km 52.9, mid-calf at most. We managed to find a place to camp about 100 m or so past the last ford.

Day 6 - Mar 11th

We got an early start as Garmin weather was predicting rain around mid-day. The trail was generally visible with minimal overgrowth. We had to check the GPS frequently as there were many animal trails and side trails, but generally the most heavily worn was a good trail. A lot of the trail went through swamp or mud, so progress was slow. At Puesto 58 we met a woman that lives there. She was very nice. There is a trail around the outside of their property, but she invited us to take the one though the property which she said was quicker (it's also the path in the track files). Ford 58.7, just below their property, was fast flowing but shallow, bottom of the calf. After there was mud and more mud. In many places logs had been put down to aid in walking, but the mud was impossible to avoid. We stopped just as the rain started and set up camp. It was far from an ideal spot, but it was not easy to find a campsite as there is a lot of bamboo and bushes most places, and the ground is quite muddy.

Day 7 - Mar 12th

The mud continued. The rain the day before had been fairly light, but the ground throughout the valley looks like it is simply swampy. We would hit sections of trail that were in great shape and looked almost like maintained trails in a park, then shortly hit another section of swamp or mud. We always find a way around, but it sometimes took some creativity. The route in the track files down toFord 66.6 looks like it goes straight, but the path actually cuts hard to the left and the switchbacks down to the river. The ford was easy, below the knee, but the exit wasn’t immediately obvious to us. If going NOBO, when you are on the beach, look up-river for where to reconnect with the trail. Going SOBO the route should be obvious. From there the route goes on dirt road which quickly turns to MR. There were bridges over all other rivers, so it was just road walking. Long stretches of it were surprisingly attractive. There were very few cars and we didn't try to hitchhike. In the end we were happy with that choice as the last few km had really interesting rainforest terrain on both sides with lots of huge ferns and flowering fuchsia. We arrived in El Amarillo around 18:30. We stayed at Residential Marcela. In the morning we waited for the bus to Chaitén, but ended up getting a hitch.

• 2025-02-09/ 1day / Hiking / Futaleufú Day Hike Option/ Natalie

When Futaleufú is not covered in clouds there are some amazing mountains surrounding the area, issue is it is hard to find a way up. With the help of a small Wikiloc entry I managed to make a loop to a false summit above town here; -43.14132, -71.86344 @~1900m. Really beautiful views and once in the alpine the terrain offered a few more options that look fun for those that are fine with mountainous terrain (alpine lakes, plateau that connects back to Argentina and possibly the East ridge of the summit). It took me almost 10hrs but once in the alpine I was going very slow because I was investigating. It starts off on a known hiking trail (Cerro la bandera), turns into a horse trail, then a cow trail, then an overgrown cow trail and then CC. The walk up to Cerro la bandera is super fast, you pass through a campsite at the bottom that may make you pay 1mil- I went early (~7am) and didn't see anyone. Alternatively you can start at a hostal “Turismo Rural Los Alpes”, that is where the Wikiloc started. At the top of Bandera there is a sign pointing to “agua”, take it to a small pond, that is where I found a horse trail that connects you to the Wikiloc trail above "Turismo Rural Los Alpes". The horse trail goes NW below a forested plateau, there are a few forks in the road but it is easy to guess where to go. The end of the horse trail is roughly here; 43.17212, -71.88034. Then you can jump the fence and get on the cow trail that the Wikiloc followed uphill. From here on it would be best to have a gps to follow or to track yourself because there are many cow trails. The main trail is good until ~750m, then it becomes overgrown. It goes up a bushy ridge next to a large canyon and then turns left and up into a terribly dark and scary Douglas fir plantation. After the plantation it gets much more overgrown but the trail goes on for a little bit until the hill climb -43.16352, -71.87214. Once I got to the hill I went CC straight up, staying to the right of the rocky outcrops. Once at about 1150m I turned left and followed the broad ridge, this is where the Wikiloc ended. Eventually the ridge opens up to views to the right and left, this is where alternative options exist ( -43.15294, -71.86552). The ridge I was originally on (SW) looked broken so I dropped down into the basin (only water available) to take the steeper South ridge (original ridge would have worked). It was a fun scramble at times. There is a point on this ridge which had a moraine to the right, you can take it if you want to try to get to the East ridge/Argentina and or the alpine lakes. The top of the South ridge turned into solid class 03 but the west ridge was only class02 at most. I could not make the true summit, there is a very eerie knife ridge that is falling apart and then what looks like a wall further ahead, someone else can try… For the return I took the main SW ridge down, it was a lot faster and I found a lot of stones that looked related to copper. I could have went back down and up to the East ridge (south face has a glacier) but weather was moving in and the wind was pushing me over at times, so I was happy to return to town. I forgot my Garmin so I did not track the whole thing which was a mistake, as the return felt slow bcs I struggled to stay on route. Technically I could have finished the loop by trying to exit out of the Turismo Rural but once again preferred the horse track in a forest.

• 2025-02-08/ 4 hours / Packrafting/ SOBO/ New option - Rio Espolón / Tomáš&Thijmen

We hitched to the beginning of Rio Espolón, here: -43.21010, -71.92778. There was a sign indicating the path after the bridge is private. We walked along the shore to here: -43.21366, -71.93230, where we put in. Met some cyclists who went to see the rapids upstream. (Class VI, big waterfall and tunnel in there. The only person who tried it died, we were told.) So the private access is probably not a big deal. The river to the bridge at Futaleufu here: -43.18768, -71.87304 is at this time and water level rather class I+, the only class II rapid is here: -43.18506, -71.87652 (very walkable). You could easily take out just before, there is a road. Prepare for ground contact if you miss the best line. There were some sticks that could be easily avoided. The river is flowing but not super fast. Some "improvements" to riverbanks and people bathing. At the bridge, we met an English speaking guy who had been coming to town for the water for thirty years before moving here. He lent us helmets and took us to the lower part of the river. It is still creek-like, meaning it does not have so much water, but there are more rapids (up to class II+ maybe, with more water class III, it is said) and it is quite fun. Take out here: -43.19950, -71.87043. We went right. Because the guy's family was picking him up, but look at Strava – there is a much shorter bath back to town on the left bank. Especially the lower part is a fun running water, but a bit above the difficulty that you would normally expect on the GPT.

• 9Jan2025 - 12jan2025 / hiking eastbound / RR + OH1 (Lago Espolon) / 4 days / Allie and Clara

From Chaiten hitchhike to El Amarillo (much cars, also a bus at 12am).

After El amarillo, long MR with almost no cars and many tabaños. Termas El amarillo (hotsprings 88.0) are closed with workers on it, seems they are constructing camping/ cabañas. We were lucky that some workers of one of the last puesto on the road proposed us a ride until the bridge at 70.3.

Then it's an ascent on MR more like a trail with really nice views on the valley and glaciar of volcan michinmahuida until puesto 67.0. Really nice settlers all along. They told us we could camp before Rio Michinmahuida and that the fords are easy for now.

We camped at -42,88746, -72,33896 just before the river. Very nice spot.

Ford Rio Michinmahuida 66.6 : large river but easy, up to knee even in afternoon.

Then good trail, well maintained and easy to follow until the puesto of Don Jaime at 58.0. He told us that he didn't see any hikers since 2020 but that people of the valley used to go through the pass by horse regularly.

Ford 58.7 is not ford of Rio mallines but one of his affluent that is not on OSM. not more than mid calf, flowing slow.

After puesto of Don Jaime : navigation becomes more demanding ! There are multiple tracks and lots of cow paths going anywhere. Again trail sometimes going away from the gps tracks and going back on it. Slows us a lot. Some small parts overgrown but there is always a good trail under it with recent horse steps. Also marsh parts (even after dry weather).

Around this point -42,92803, -72,23085, the trail joined back the same river that is not on OSM. Then it crosses the river several times (around knee). It seems to have trails on the 2 sides of the river.

We camped in a really nice spot with views on montains around, just before the last ford of this river at -42,92678, -72,22347.

After, it's the ascent to the pass. Mostly trail easy to follow. Tracks are sometimes very precise, sometimes not. Better to follow fresh horse steps. Few short parts overgrown or with sleepery steep mud but mostly good.

Going down to the pass, less steep but marsh and several easy fords around mid calf. Need GPS as there are cow paths and lots of parallel trails and better to stay on the "principal one".

Around here -42,94528, -72,17471 there is a puesto, not written in gps, and then trail becomes easier to follow.

2 fords not written in the tracks (of the big river going to lago Espolon) -42,95105, -72,15224 and -42,96028, -72,15236. First one was fast flowing begining of afternoon, until mid thighs (I'm 1.57m). Second easy. After the second one it's easy dirt road. More and more settler along it until you arrive to a bus stop (-43,01878, -72,07040) in front of Milio house.

We met Milio that proposed us to camp on his lands. Had a lot of delicious frambuesas. We cooked and ate with him. He played guitar and sang for us.

At this last bus stop you can take a bus to Lago Espolon and then directly take the ferry. There are few cars of the settlers passing also. After ferry, again a bus waiting to go to futaleufu. Each bus is 800 CLP pp and ferry 500 CLP pp.

Water : good streams crossing almost all along. Even when going up to the pass there is a river but maybe will be dry later in summer.

Season 2018/19

• 2019-Jan-01 to 2019-Jan-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SoBo / Martin Lizondo

Long and beautifull route, if well demanding.

The Río Turbio crossing isn’t a problem anymore as it has a bridge now at 42°52'51"S 72°22'13"W. There are two very difficult river crossings in this section. One is Río Michimahuida at 42°53'15"S 72°20'19"W. It’s possible to cross with water up to the hips. There live some settlers who can help you cross with horses. The next river is Río de los Mallines, which is 42°55'19"S 72°16'57"W. Much more strong and difficult, you may require help with horses too. The last settler of that valley is called “Chayo” Pezo and he lives with his son Jaime at 42°55'27"S 72°16'32"W. Very gentle, they offer bed, mate and bread.

Near to the mountain pass the trail is confusing and becomes lost in some mallines, so fresh steps and wood cuts are the best signaling. Signs of old cattle use are visible everwhere if well the route was practically abandoned since the last volcano’s eruption. The valley of Espolon isn’t hard, is mostly well marked and there are many well built bridges. Remeber to say hello and spend some time chating with settlers. The don’t require money for their help.

The Lagos de las Rosas trail is perfectly marked and daily used.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• 2019 / Martin Lizondo

The last settler of that valley is called “Chayo” Pezo and he lives with his son Jaime at 42°55'27"S 72°16'32"W. Very gentle, they offer bed, mate and bread.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT71 - Espolón