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A wonderful stretch of the GPT, I especially enjoyed the second half of it. Decent trails, except when they go into cow pastures or traverse some sandy/scree cliffs where erosion has taken place. Lots of great swimming opportunities, which is good because the midday/afternoon heat gets quite oppresive.
Some demanding river fords this time of year. The ones that stand out as being particularly difficult are1: - the one after the first pass after Carrizales - , 2: Río Guaiquivillo (downright scary) - , 3: Río Parallelo (although not so bad after experiencing Guaiquivillo)
Took the bus from Talca back to El Médano at 3 pm. The "vapores" at El Médano are awesome, and free if you stay at the nearby campground. When I went three next morning at 9 a.m. there was nobody there and I got to try out and enjoy the three different saunas.
