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==Season 2023/24==
2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella
TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people
Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.
Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…
Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!
Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.
2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie