Cambios

GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

24 299 bytes añadidos, 19 abril
sin resumen de edición
==Season 2023/24==
 
*2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria
 
No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.
 
Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.
 
One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.
 
*From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel
 
Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue
 
After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.
 
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
 
After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.
 
It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !
 
Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !
 
And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.
 
Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !
 
Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.
 
The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.
 
A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)
 
 
* 2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias
 
The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)
Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.
 
My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.
 
Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.
 
 
*2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian
 
Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19
 
Do you have any reasons to reject this section?
 
 
I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].
 
You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.
 
If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.
 
Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.
 
 
 
RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)
 
X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.
 
Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.
 
Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.
 
Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...
 
Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...
 
 
 
At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)
 
Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.
 
I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.
 
Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.
 
Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.
 
Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.
 
Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.
 
Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.
 
Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!
 
 
 
From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.
 
Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.
 
Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.
 
Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.
 
Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.
 
 
 
Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.
 
At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.
 
(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.
 
(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.
 
(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.
 
If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.
 
Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.
 
Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.
 
 
 
After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.
 
{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).
 
Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.
 
Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.
 
Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!
 
Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!
 
When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.
 
 
 
Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.
 
Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.
 
Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
 
Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.
 
Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.
 
RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.
 
RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
 
Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.
 
Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.
 
Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.
 
Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).
 
Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.
 
Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.
 
Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.
 
 
 
Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.
 
I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.
 
Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!
 
At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.
 
 
 
From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)
 
It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!
 
Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.
 
I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!
 
 
 
From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.
 
Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.
 
Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.
 
Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.
 
Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.
 
Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.
 
 
 
Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.
 
Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.
 
Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.
 
Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.
 
Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.
 
Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.
 
Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.
 
I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)
 
 
 
 
*2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.
 
Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.
 
*2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens
 
From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.
 
There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.
 
Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.
 
There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.
 
I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.
*2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian
From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).
*2023-Dec12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman
Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.
 
Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.
Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW
==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
 
*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.
 
* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.
*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.
*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.
 
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
 
 
There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant if the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere.
 
End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).
 
*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
=Transport to and from Route=
 
*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.
*2023 / Martin & Helena
144
ediciones