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==Season 2018/19==
* 2018-Dec-03 to 2018-Dec-07 / GPT77P Fjordo Comau Leptepu / Packrafting Northbound / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck
We just investigate this packrafting section that connects Caleta Gonzalo with Hornopiren. This section consists of 90 km packrafting in four fjords and 10 km of road walk.
When combined with GPT73P (Lago Yelcho), GPT74P (Rio Yelcho) and GPT76P (Canal Desertores) a more than 250 km long continuos packrafting traverse is formed with just 10 km walking. (We investigated these sections last season.)
Pro: Amazing views all along the way, plenty of wild life (i.e. sea lions, pingüinos, dolphins) and up to four hot springs on the way. The highlight are the Baños Cahuelmo (fantastic natural hot springs from 35 to 40 degree C) that are hidden at the end of side fjord. I’m considering to rename this section to “Fiordos Termales”.
Cons: This is without doubt one of the more challenging packrafting routes of the GPT. For safety reasons this traverse should only be attempted with:
1. a packraft that incorporates a spreydeck,
2. plenty spare food and
3. without a tight timeline.
Depending on wind a packrafter might need to wait days for better conditions in a remote location without any alternative land exit route. We were extremely lucky and had 5 days with mostly sunshine and optimal wind conditions.
The “salmoneras” (maned salmon cultures) don’t add to the beauty but provide a last resort if running into problems on the way.
Wind: I’m unsure if there is a clearly preferable travel direction due to different predominant wind directions in these fjords. We choose to travel northbound based on the adjacent sections we did before and plan to do afterwards. If GPT77P is done uncombined with other sections southbound might be slightly beneficial.
On a normal nice day expect relatively calm conditions between dawn and 10 o’clock in the morning. Than wind starts to pick up entering from the Pacific Ocean and following the directions of the fjords inland. Therefore be on the water paddling with the first light of the day. If you you leave after sunrise you might be too late. In poor weather you might not be able to advance for several days.
Especially the two 21 km long legs from Huinay to Baños Cahuelmo and from the Baños Cahuelmo to Pichamco should be paddled each on one morning as there are no suitable campsites on the cost (only some inconvenient emergency exits).
Tides: Tides are significant and tidal currents effect most fjords. Based on our measured speed tidal currents were typical 1 to 2 km/h; sometimes in favor, sometimes opposing.
In two areas the tidal currents exceed clearly the packrafting paddle speed:
1. At the narrow formed by sediment cone of Rio Reñihue (km 7 to km 9 counted from Caleta Gonzalo). We only passed this narrow against the tidal flow by paddling hard and sailing with strong backwind through the shallower area.
2. The mouth of Fiordo Quintupeo (km 74 to km 76 counted from Caleta Gonzalo). Keep distance and paddle through more open water and not close to the cost especial when the tide is rising (you will otherwise be sucked into this fiord without being asked and may capsize in the strong eddies).
Water: There are plenty of streams running down the mountains. Anyway fill up all your water containers at the beginning of the two longer traverses in case you need to seek refuge in between if the wind and waves make it impossible to reach the next suitable campsite.
Access: There is a daily ferry between Hornopiren and Caleta Gonzalo.
Southbound: 09:00 to 14:00
Northbound: approx 16:00 to 21:00
Alternative is the daily ferry between Hornopiren and Leptepu
Southbound: approx. 10:30 to 13:00
Northbound: approx. 14:00 to 16:30
Accomodation: The settler in Huinay offers accommodation and food (15’000 CLP including dinner and breakfast per person). Apart from this there are no resupply possibilities on the route. You must rely on what you carry.
Hornopirén: We stayed in a nice inexpensive cabaña (25’000 CLP) and left some extra gear with the owner Melania. / Mobile: +56-9-42317571 / EMail: melania1.2@hotmail.com (Spanish only!)
==Season 2017/18==
=Transport to and from Route=
*2021 / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck
From Hornopiren two daily ferries carry passengers and cars to Caleta Gonzalo. The early ferry departs in Hornopiren at 8 am and a second ferry departs in Hornopiren at 10:30 am.
Both ferries go to Leptepu from where a bus carries passengers (without a car) to Fiordo Largo (approx. 12 km). From Fiordo Largo a second ferry carries cars and passengers to Caleta Gonzalo. On the later ferry that departs at 10:30 in Hornopiren is the daily bus that departs in the morning in Puerto Montt and arrives at 16:00 in Chaiten.
(...)
Contacts:
Boat transfer between Leptepu and Punta Porcelana and accomodation near Punta Porcelana: Mabel +56-9-87696084
Termas de Porcelana: Marlyn +56-9-90978870 (you may buy bread and homemade marmalade from Marlyn)
Subsidized ferry Serenade II: Alejandro Jobis +56-9-87696084 (Tuesday and Friday only).
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
*2021 / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck
With the land border between Chile and Argentina still closed hikers can not cross into Argentina on section GPT22 but can continue hiking southbound by walking section GPT78 from Rio Puelo to Hornopiren. See my previous post to this section.
=Links to other Resources=
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