Cambios

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.  On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way. The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered. On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked. The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections). Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).  *07/03/23-10/03/23 / Natalie&Tomàš/ SOBO RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue /~3days  The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to trapa trapa from Los Angeles, it was long...5+hours and leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more. Arrived in trapa trapa at ~730pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping.  Day2Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously but there is also a nice water source earlier here; -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.  Day 3We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although there was a path we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucaria's the trail is clear and non bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434.  Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son-genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to his pass, although beautiful, took a long time!  At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far.  The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs. We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.  Day4We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road too ... The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river ( glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?). The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR.  * 25-27.01.2023/ Maks& Gabi, SOBO, RR  Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01. Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain.  We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.  The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church. 25.-27. Jan. 2023/Johana & Matouš/SOBO/2,5 daysWe found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.   * 12 to 15 January, 2023 / Will / SOBO, detour past Laguna las Totoras Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake. I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route. Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail. Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods. The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful. Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k. * 2023-Jan-13 / SOBO / RR / 2 days / Martin & Helena We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza.On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark. Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka