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==Zones of GPT==
See the GPT Hiker's Manual.
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===GPT Zones===
====Zone A: Zona Precordillera====
This zone is noted for its long climbs, strong winds, and exposed nature. It quickly affords a vast sense of wilderness and elevation even so near to the giant metropolis of Santiago de Chile. You will also hike through the area of the El Teniente mine, the largest underground copper mine in the world. Fascinating to observe but important to keep your distance and not to interrupt the work movement. Expect to be questioned by guards, though you do have right of way.
About two third of the route consists of trails, animal paths and cross country walking where you are likely to see “arrieros” with cattle, goats and horses. In the lower areas closer to the towns, the trails see more frequent human use as hiking paths. Private campgrounds near towns are often accessible for people looking to get out of the city and see high use on weekends.
About one third of the distance need to be walked on roads. Some of the roads are barely known mine access roads that are well maintained, see daily use by workers who are generally respectful if diligent about their work.
Highlights are the sweeping views of the Andes, astounding rock colors, mineral deposits from the rivers, small lush drainages tucked into the folds of the mountains with water and beautiful flowers, and snow fields lasting late in the season. This zone provides you the biggest contrast to the icefields in southern Patagonia. If starting here you will fully experience the transformation of the landscape from a desert-like terrain into a sub-polar territory.
When you start early in the hiking season you may encounter large snow fields and difficult river crossings along the route. During the summer high temperatures and a merciless sun may squeeze the sweat out of you. But due to the partially high elevation you need to be prepared to withstand strong wind, heavy rain and even hail and snow if a "temporal" surprises you in the wrong place.
====Zone B: Zona Arrieros====
In this zone the “campo” culture and “arriero” lifestyle is strongly felt. Generally clear trails follow up and down many passes, though the trails tend to becomes indistinct or disappear in terrain where animals can graze and roam freely. In this zone you constantly move between temperate valleys and windy, exposed highs. The route is mostly in open terrain and only along the few lower valleys you can enjoy the shade of a forest.
A major challenge of this zone are the river crossings which can be impassable in particular in spring during the snow melt and after a rare but heavy summer rain. Only few bridge eliminate the need to ford these rivers and improvised bridge are sometimes flushed away.
Some of the highlights of this zone are the Laguna Dial, the ridge above Laguna de Las Lajas, the Volcan Antuco, and several hot springs that are both, left natural and cultivated. You will see many “arrieros” and sometimes even families living outside with their animals at the high summer grazing grounds during the “veranero” season. Another highlight are the unique swimming holes which exist alongside the trail in the crystal clear refreshing rivers. You will love them during the sometimes unbearable afternoon heat.
In this zone you find the most hiking options that can literally get you into the last valley and over the last mountain ridge next to the border to Argentina. If you love to explore than this is your zone to go. You can in example roam around the Laguna del Maule, which is the giant caldera of a dormant super volcano.
Here you also have the first opportunities to inflate a packraft and paddle over impressive mountains lakes. For a longer traverse the extra weight of the packraft gear will probably not pay off but if you come to explore a specific area i.e. the Laguna de Las Lajas and its surroundings than this is an option to consider.
You are suggested to obtain permission to pass through the hydropower station Los Cipreses on section GPT06 or you may be escorted off property if hiking southbound. The permit is essential for hiking northbound and relatively easy to obtain with proper advanced notice and due diligence.
====Zone C: Zona Pehuenche====
Here you enter a distinctly native zone; the homeland of the Pehuenche. This native community is often considered part of the Mapuche nation that maintained their independence until late into the 19th century. They are normally very kind and can be curious but also tend to be reserved and cautious with any outsider.
They live in villages in the mountain valleys but also move up on higher grazing grounds during the summer very much like the “arrieros” do. But in contrast to the "arrieros" you will meet more women and entire families, sometimes three generations living together in small summer shelters. Some milk their cows and make cheese. In summer and autumn they harvest the "piñones" of the Araucaria tree what is the staple food of their traditional diet. Once you discover how to collect and prepare these seeds you will have an unlimited food supply along the trail provided that you scheduled the traverse of this zone to match the harvest season.
These Araucaria trees are one defining element of this landscape and a highlight of this zone. Areas where old growth trees have been preserved create and impressive scenery. If then a large band of squawking parrots crosses your path you may feel like in mystery forest.
Volcanos are the other defining element with some being quite active. So don’t be surprised if you see clouds of dark smoke rising into the sky. The soil you are walking on is mainly volcanic ash from past eruptions reminding you of the powers that you are surrounded by.
While you move through the homeland of the Pehuenche you will notice a gradual change of the flora. In the north the forest is rather open with large treeless areas in between, often the result of fire clearing. As you move south the annual precipitation increases and so does the vegetation. When going southbound you will leave this unique zone while walking through lush overgrown forest.
In this zone the extra weight of the packraft gear will not pay off except you except you come specifically to visit the few lakes.
====Zone D: Zona Ríos y Lagos Chilenos====
This zone has two very different faces. The majority of the trail dives though the twilight of lush green tempered rainforest with some remaining old growth forests. The dense forest tears open along the clear cold rivers that constantly refill deep blue lakes and the renowned Patagonian fjords.
The other so different face of this zone is the volcanic lunar landscape. Two extended volcanic areas rise out of the rainforest with the last major eruption occurring in 2011. The trail climbs up and out of the rainforest to traverse wide fields of grey ash and snake around massive streams of black lava boulders. You can summit the volcanos and stare into a wide open crater. The contrast between the engulfing forest and the hostile volcanic terrain is mind-blowing.
With this zone the packraft dreamland begins. You can cover about a third of the distance on water floating down calm river, crossing immense lakes and even paddling in the Patagonian fjords.
In this zone the climate cools considerably and rain become more frequent. But where the trail remains in the forest you are less exposed than in the zones further north. Only the two volcano crossings get you high up in open terrain where condition can turn hostile even in mid-summer if you are hit by bad weather.
You will see the effects of a wide variety of trail maintenance throughout this zone. In parts you have well maintained forest roads; then you walk on frequently used horse trails but in a few parts you need to fight your way through overgrown terrain.
Crossing through the “private for profit natural reserve” Huilo-Huilo on section GPT18 can be complicated by private guards. Without a packraft you need to organize a private boat transfer over the Lago Todos Los Santos with one of the settlers on the trail. The border crossing from Chile into Argentina on the southern end of this zone is uncomplicated if you walk into the two police stations on either side of the border to get the much-needed passport stamps.
====Zone E: Zona Ríos y Lagos Argentinos====
Chile and Argentina are like two brothers that share a lot but have some distinct differences in appearance and attitude. The relation between both countries is pretty much like between siblings; they can stand together and feel strong family ties but there is also some sibling rivalry, just like two little boys that quietly play together in the sandbox and a moment later they stream and fight over one toy that both grabbed at the same time. And this zone is your opportunity to get to know the other brother. You can explore the difference of the Argentine culture and way of life i.e. by visiting the hippie town of El Bolsón at the end of section GPT22 and the start of GPT23.
The hiking route of this zone borders numerous pristine lakes and rivers and crosses forest and patches of cattle grazing land. The route passes two national parks and several large private properties ("estancias"). You can enjoy many gorgeous views and some sections of this zone are generally easy walking. Here the GPT follows in large parts the Huella Andina, a personal initiated trail project by Estefania Chereguini and Walter Oszust. This project unfortunately came to a halt when the Argentine Ministry of Tourism assumed control and forced the founders out. This and recent wild fires mean that parts of the trail are no longer maintained and become overgrown.
A very challenging but fascinating highlight of this zone is the traverse from Lago Puelo to Lago Cholila that contains some demanding bush bashing and walking in rivers to avoid the dense vegetation. Here you can test what it takes to walk without a trail though partly engulfing forest. This experience may reconcile you with the larger proportion of road walking that is unavoidable if hiking and not packrafting.
With this zone the packraft dreamland continues. The distance on water exceeds 40%. In particular from Lago Cholila to Lago Kruger you have a long continuous sector of interconnecting lakes and rivers where you don’t need to leave the water for 3 or 4 days except to rest and to camp.
In this zone rain is rare but heat can be a burden since the trail snakes along of the eastern edge of the Andes in the rain shadow. Expect to climb over many fences and closed gates since the more leveled ground on the eastern edge of the Andes is used as grazing land for large herds of cattle. In the National Park “Los Alerces” you will meet large crowds on the camp sites but a short stroll from these hot-spots you will encounter much less people. On the southern terminus of this zone you return to Chile on a paved road where collecting your passport stamps is straightforward.
====Zone F: Zona Palena====
In the zona Palena the hiking and the packrafting route divide and follow completely different bearings. The hiking route goes south while the packraft route takes you to the west to the Patagonian fjords and the Pacific Ocean.
If hiking you traverse a thickly forested region that generally follows quiet back roads and historic horse trails. A major trail section is a national heritage trail (“Ruta Patrimonial”) that is beautiful hiking, with a wonderful perspective of history. The wide river valleys are lovely to note, as are the views when you can see through the trees. Sparsely populated, it gives an idea of the hardy and kind people who inhabit Patagonia.
If hiking be aware that parts of the route receive little to no maintenance and can be quite difficult to track. Some hikers turned back because they lost the trail. At the moment I have no precise GPS record for parts of the trail and only an approximate route is incorporated into the trail file. Your contribution is needed to fill this gap with an accurate record.
For packrafters this zone is an unmatched highlight of the GPT. Just two kilometers after leaving the village Palena you reach the put in at the generally calm river Palena that you can now float down in 4 to 6 days until you reach the Fjord Pitipalena and the tiny harbor village Raul Marin Balmaceda. Don’t try to be fast to enjoy the scenery and to meet some of the families that live for three or four generations on the shore of this powerful but unhurried river.
From Raul Marin Balmaceda you best take the ferry to Puerto Chacabuco, which with favorable weather is a very scenic 24 h boat ride through the Patagonian fjord world. The ferry stops in various tiny settlements in the fjords, where you might leave the boat to do some optional exploration excursions. From Puerto Chacabuco the most practical option is to continue after GPT28P with GPT31P, skipping the expedition sections GPT29P and GPT30P that should only be considered by highly experienced packrafters that are quite familiar with Patagonia.
The few rapids can normally be scouted and portaged if needed but your constant attention is needed to evade the countless sunken trees that lurk under the water. Towards the end the river valley widens exposing you to sometimes heavy head wind and when you reach the intertidal zone the flow direction may inverse twice per day for several hours. So understand the tidal cycles and get tidal charts to plan at what times you can paddle down. When choosing your last camp site make sure that you do not pitch your tent in the intertidal zone otherwise you may suddenly wake up in the middle of the river.
====Zone G: Zona Aysen Norte====
In the zona Aysen Norte the hiking and the packrafting route remain divided and rejoin at the southern end of this zone. The hiking route is located further to the east partly at the edge of the Andes where the arid Patagonian pampa begins. The packrafting route further to the west crosses the main mountain range of the Andes along deep mostly wide valleys.
The hiking route largely follows an array of roads, from impassible by vehicle to main thoroughfares and is easy walking. A few notable peaks can be viewed along the way and water is ample. The few villages are safe, simple, and kind. Coming in the Valle Chacabuco around Coyhaique gives a striking view of the effects of the early fire clearing in this region to create grazing land as you move between old growth forests and clear cuts. Coyhaique is the largest city directly on GPT and has several outdoor shops, which, while overpriced, can help in a pinch. This is also the center for “Patagonia Sin Represas” so if you have a chance, stop by!
Since the hiking route consists completely of minor and primary roads I don’t recommend walking this zone except if you advocate connecting food steps or if you are a die-heard thru-hiker that attempts hiking the entire trail without packrafting in two or three seasons.
The packrafting route is much more scenic than the hiking option and with about half the distance on water carrying a boat really pays off. The route connects half a dozen lakes and river sections and requires some walking on minor roads because the historic horse trails have been upgraded in the last one or two decades. When talking to the few settlers on the shore of the lakes and along the roads you can gain a very personal insight how this harsh land got settled during the 20th century.
Note that wind on these lakes can be powerful and rain is frequent and cold. If going southbound then wind is normally favorable. But be prepared to sit out periods of unsafe strong wind even if blasting in your direction.
====Zone H: Zona Aysen Sur====
This zone provides a perspective of the quintessential spirit and landscape of Patagonia, from open windy passes and glaciers to deeply wooded valleys that channel the glacier melt into turquoise rivers and lakes. Cerro Castillo and the route between Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins called “Ruta de los Pioneros” are highlights of the GPT, in particular if you are aware of the historic relevance of this trail and if you meet the few people that make their living on this harsh land. Expect to approach both landscape and people with patience and respect.
Challenges in this region are remoteness, volatile weather and partly poor trail conditions. The walking distance from Chile Chico to Villa O’Higgins is about 350 km and you have just the village Chochrane to resupply in the middle. The partially difficult route finding on the “Ruta de los Pioneros” probably reconciles you with the easy but tiresome road walking on either end of this historic trail.
When packrafting you can opt between several more choices. You can i.e. cross Lago Cochrane and bypass the village Cochrane to venture into the particular remote area of Lago Brown and float down the swift river Río Tranquilo that is not as tranquil as name suggests. You can paddle several lakes and rivers that parallel the “Ruta de los Pioneros”. The most challenging packrafting option is floating down the Río Baker. This powerful high volume river requires a couple of portages and wind can fiercely against you in particular when getting close to the harbor village Villa Tortel where this rivers flows into Patagonian fjords.
This zone is sure to be a favorite among hikers and packrafters that seek to be challenged by difficult terrain.
====Zone I: Zona Campo de Hielo Sur Sector Norte====
The giant Southern Patagonian Ice Field extends 350 km in North-South direction and is in average 35 km wide. It’s northern terminus is located as the latitude of Villa O’Higgins. Immense glaciers flow down from this ice field in all directions and some glaciers constantly refill the Lago O’Higgins with immense blocks of ice and turquoise glacier melt. For navigation this lake is often considered the most challenging lake in South America due to the heavy and very variable wind in the different arms of the lake.
To continue southbound you need to take the ferry that crosses this wind battered lake and unloads you next to the tiny settlement Candelario Mansilla, where a Chilean police outpost provides you with the required passport exit stamp. From here you can walk either directly into Argentina or follow the much more scenic route along the shore of the lake. Some optional trails get you face to face with various glaciers that flow down from the ice field. At the northern end of Lago del Desierto the Argentine police outpost will verify that you got your Chilean exit stamp and if so, give you an entry stamp for Argentina. Rules and regulations are unclear how long you may wander in the no man’s land in between both police posts.
The trail along Lago del Desierto is a beautiful walk and provides inspiring first peeks at one of the most famous highlights of this region, Cerro Fitz Roy at the eastern edge of the ice field. Multiple optional trails get you to various lookouts and glaciers and you should walk at least some of these options. In particular Cerro Torre seen from the Laguna Torre is one of the most pictured views. The GPT currently terminates with the “Huelta Huemul” a 60 km circuit that gets you to the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and with perfect views over the glacier Viedma that flows into Lago Viedma.
During peak tourist season the area next to Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and the town of El Chalten are extremely crowded, which can be a difficult shift from the solitude of Patagonia that you experience on most parts of the GPT. Climate can be challenging and in particular the “Huelta Huemul” should only be attempted if the weather and wind forecast is suitable for this very exposed terrain.
When packrafting you can wait for a calm moment and cross Lago Chico where the Glacier Chico unloads its ice. This is probably the most impressive but not risk-free packrafting part of the GPT as you are in between the glacier edge and giant blocks of floating ice. Keep distance! Lago del Desierto can be an innocent looking beast; while calm on one end fierce wind can blow in the middle. Río de la Vueltas is a calm and easy to paddle river that saves you some otherwise annoying road walking.
====Zone Designations, Locations and Planning Status====
{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="5" | Zone Designations
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Zone Designation
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Latitude
! style="text-align: left;" " rowspan="2" | Planning and Verification Status
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" | Code
! style="text-align: left;" | Name
! style="text-align: left;" | Northern
! style="text-align: left;" | Southern
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| A
| Zona Precordillera
| 33° 30' S
| 35° 0' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| B
| Zona Arrieros
| 35° 0' S
| 37° 43' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| C
| Zona Pehuenche
| 37° 43' S
| 39° 42' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| D
| Zona Rios y Lagos Chilenos
| 39° 42' S
| 42° 6' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| E
| Zona Rios y Lagos Argentinos
| 42° 6' S
| 43° 37' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| F
| Zona Palena
| 43° 37' S
| 44° 14' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| G
| Zona Aysen Sector Norte
| 44° 14' S
| 45° 45' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| H
| Zona Aysen Sector Sur
| 45° 45' S
| 48° 31' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| I
| Zona Campo de Hielo Sur Sector Norte
| 48° 31' S
| 49° 30' S
| Published and Verified
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| J
| Zona Campo de Hielo Sur Sector Sur
| 49° 30' S
| 51° 44' S
| To be Planned
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| K
| Zona Magallanes
| 51° 44' S
| 54° 0' S
| To be Planned
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| L
| Zona Tierra del Fuego
| 52° 30' S
| 55° 30' S
| In Consideration
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| M
| Zona Yelcho
| 42° 55' S
| 43° 40' S
| Published
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| N
| Zona Costa
| 41° 47' S
| 42° 55' S
| Published
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| O
| Zona Campo de Hielo Norte Sector Monte
| -
| -
| In Consideration
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| P
| Zona Campo de Hielo Norte Sector Mar
| -
| -
| In Consideration
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| Q
| Zona Huella Andina
| -
| -
| Published and Verified by Others, <br> Connections with GPT to be Planned
|}
====Hiking and Packrafting Recommendations for Published Zones====
{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="6" | Hiking and Packrafting Recommendations for Published Zones
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Zone Designation
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Recommended Zones for a <br> Single-Season Section-Hike
! style="text-align: left;" " rowspan="2" | Recommended Travel Method for a <br> Multi-Season Thru-Hike <br> (2 to 3 seasons required)
! style="text-align: left;" " rowspan="2" | Benefit of a Packraft
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" | Code
! style="text-align: left;" | Name
! style="text-align: left;" | Hiking
! style="text-align: left;" | Packrafting
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| A
| Zona Precordillera
| Consider
| No
| Hiking
| Only Burden
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| B
| Zona Arrieros
| Yes
| Consider
| Hiking
| Occasional Deployable
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| C
| Zona Pehuenche
| Yes
| Consider
| Hiking
| Occasional Deployable
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| D
| Zona Rios y Lagos Chilenos
| Yes
| Yes
| Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| E
| Zona Rios y Lagos Argentinos
| Consider
| Yes
| Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| F
| Zona Palena
| Consider
| Yes
| Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| G
| Zona Aysen Sector Norte
| No
| Yes
| Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| H
| Zona Aysen Sector Sur
| Consider
| Consider
| Hiking or Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| I
| Zona Campo de Hielo Sur Sector Norte
| Consider
| Consider
| Hiking or Packrafting
| Very Useful
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| M
| Zona Yelcho
| Not Possible
| Consider
| Packrafting
| Required
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| N
| Zona Costa
| Not Possible
| Consider
| Packrafting
| Required
|}
====Possible Travel Directions and Sections of Published Zones====
{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="5" | Possible Travel Directions and Sections of Published Zones
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Zone Designation
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="2" | Possible Travel Directions <br> (Southbound or Northbound)
! style="text-align: left;" " rowspan="2" | Sections
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" | Code
! style="text-align: left;" | Name
! style="text-align: left;" | Hiking
! style="text-align: left;" | Packrafting
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| A
| Zona Precordillera
| Both ↓↑
| Both ↓↑
| From GPT01 to GPT04
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| B
| Zona Arrieros
| Both ↓↑ (1)
| Both ↓↑ (1)
| From GPT05 to GPT09
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| C
| Zona Pehuenche
| Both ↓↑
| Both ↓↑
| From GPT08 to GPT16
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| D
| Zona Rios y Lagos Chilenos
| Both ↓↑
| Both ↓↑ (2)
| From GPT17H/GPT17P to GPT22
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| E
| Zona Rios y Lagos Argentinos
| Both ↓↑
| Only ↓ (3)
| From GPT23 to GPT26
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| F
| Zona Palena
| Both ↓↑
| Only ↓ (3)
| GPT27H, GPT27P, GPT28P and GPT30P
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| G
| Zona Aysen Sector Norte
| Both ↓↑
| Preferable ↓ (4)
| GPT28H, GPT29H, GPT29P, GPT30H, GPT31H and GPT31P
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| H
| Zona Aysen Sector Sur
| Both ↓↑
| Preferable ↓ (4)
| From GPT32 to GPT37H/GPT37P
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| I
| Zona Campo de Hielo Sur Sector Norte
| Both ↓↑
| Preferable ↓ (4)
| From GPT37H/GPT37P to GPT40
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| M
| Zona Yelcho
| None
| Preferable ← (5)
| From GPT70P to GPT75P
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
| N
| Zona Costa
| None
| Both ↓↑
| From GPT76P to GPT78P
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
! style="text-align: left;" " colspan="5" | Comments
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
| colspan="5" |
(1) For northbound travel an entry permit to the hydro-power station Los Cypresses is required. <br>
(2) Depending on the direction of travel different rivers may be partially packrafted. <br>
(3) Due to the flow direction of the incorporated rivers only southbound travel is feasible. <br>
(4) Recommendation based on predominant wind direction on lakes and the flow direction of the majority of incorporated rivers. <br>
(5) See detailed information and recommendations to individual sections.
|}
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==Recommended Season==
