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Greater Patagonian Trail

8562 bytes eliminados, 18:55 26 oct 2017
Understanding the Host Nations
But for now this southbound extension is not on the top of my agenda. Before personally focusing on it I wish to consolidate the GPT between Santiago and Lago Viedma by investigating relevant optional routes and updating the trail documentation.
 
===Become a Contributor to the GPT===
If you want to become a collaborator on this amazing project you are very welcome. Don’t just be a beneficiary; become a contributor. If you walk on the GPT please continuously record your hike by GPS and share these records with me. Save useful waypoints on your GPS and highlight where you got lost or struggled with the trail. This is essential to keep the tracks updated.
 
 
Email of author: gpt.jan.dudeck@gmail.com
 
 
A best practice of contributors is to keep notes as you go. When you save i.e. a new useful waypoint record your considerations soon after together with the waypoint identifying number. Keeping notes as you go is important as the length and variety of this trail can muddy specifics and details if you wait until the end of the hike to document observations. One successful method is to document observations into an email draft and arrange according to sections.
 
 
If you wish to investigate some of the numerous options, please do so with the necessary preparation and care. The entire network of tracks (currently more than 12’000 km) is more than four times the length of the trail (approx. 3’000 km) so there are plenty of alternatives to the regular route. Some of these optional routes are just exit and escape routes and not particularly attractive for hiking but numerous options will get into more remote and challenging back-country. Some of these optional routes may even replace the regular route if proven to be feasible and more attractive. Other hikes already contributed heavily making the creation and consolidation of the Greater Patagonian Trail a joint project of the hiking community.
 
 
If you consider exploring the prospective southern extension or parts of it please contact me. I can share my knowledge about this area and suggest approximate routes. But such an expedition should only be considered by highly skilled hikers or packrafters that already know Patagonia very well and that are humbled by experience. Proud heros are not wanted.
===Understanding the Host Nations===
====Security, Police and Borders====
In the bigger cities, especially in bus stations, you need to be cautious with petty crime. But once you get out of the cities into the rural areas people live a tranquil life and sometimes don’t even lock the doors of their houses. I do not recall any scary situation with people along the GPT and only very few instances in which distrust was advisable. But when you meet trunk people be cautious and keep distance. With alcohol these sometimes shy people can get pretty annoying and even harassing in particular with women. In such a situation the best response is to move on.  When hiking the GPT you will be most of the time in close proximity to the border that delimits Chile from Argentina. It’s a seemingly open border with a boundary mark (Spanish: “hito”) every few kilometers. Official border crossings can be 200 km apart. But don’t mistake this as an invitation to cross the border where you wish! Both countries are pretty touchy with their borders and both countries run random police patrols on horse to monitor their boundaries. In particular the Chilean police (“Carabineros”) has many permanent police posts in the vicinity of the border and establishes additional temporary police outposts during summer to monitor movements and prevent contraband in the borderland. The Argentine police (“Gendarmeria”) has less posts but also run occasional patrols. We had to show our passports numerous times in the middle of nowhere just to confirm that we entered the country legally.  If they find you “on the wrong” side of the border because you have crossed the border illegally expect to be fined, deported and punished with an entry ban for an extended period. That’s the certain end of your hike on the GPT. Especially Chile is very strict and unforgiving. Also if you are not checked after an illegal border crossing you are not out of trouble. You can be certain that without a valid tourist permit you will not have a trouble-free departure for your flight home. Therefore enter both countries only through the official doors, respect the house rules and never climb in through a window even if the window is wide open with the window ledge conveniently low.  The vast majority of citizens from the Americas and Europe do not need to apply for visa to visit [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_policy_of_Chile Chile] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_policy_of_Argentina Argentina] as a tourist. These citizens receive at the border a tourist permit that is valid for staying up to 90 days in the country. The easiest way to renew your tourist permit is travelling over the border from Chile to Argentina or from Argentina to Chile before completing your 90 days and returning a few days later. On re-entry you will normally be granted another 90 days. Such a trip can be combined with a resupply stop in a nearby town. Alternatively you can request a tourist visa extension in Chile. This can be done in any of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provinces_of_Chile the 54 provincial capitals of Chile].  Don’t be a fool that carries drugs when hiking the GPT. As stated before there are numerous permanent and temporary police posts in the vicinity of the border to prevent smuggle. One of the concerns is drug-trafficking. Because hikers are still a rare occurrence police sometimes wonders why someone might walk with a backpack in the border area. Some hikers got searched in detail for drugs. If they find something illegal in your backpack, even small amounts, you can be certain to feel the tight grip of the strict drug trafficking laws. The Chilean Carabineros are famous for not taking bribes therefore you can buy your way out. So don’t be a fool and don’t carry drugs, not even small amounts.  But don’t be scared of the police now. The Chilean Carabineros and Argentine Gendarmeria are correct, friendly and helpful if you respect the “house rules”. When we pass a police post we never sneak around but always present ourselves and explain our plans. We often get helpful information and sometimes we were even invited by the police to stay night if it was late to move on. ====Rescue System====Chile and Argentina have limited rescue capabilities if compared with North America and Europe. There seams no clear procedures in place to ensure that experienced and properly equipped personal responds to an emergency in remote areas of the Andes. Technically the police is in charge but they often lack the expertise and equipment to respond quickly to an distress call. So don't expect that a helicopter hovers over you an hour after you pushed the emergency button on your InReach or Spot satellite transmitter. They might send out a police patrol on horse the next day but if they don't have a GPS (or don't know how to use it) it might take a while till they reach you. In some areas private and government owned helicopters are stationed but to my knowledge these are not integrated in a fast response rescue system.  Before you depart make arrangements for emergencies. You will need someone Spanish speaking who is able to coordinate and follow up rescue efforts.  And more important: Take every opportunity to no do stupid things while you are out there. Prevent accidents in the first place. [[File:GPT20_Mercado.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT20: Shop ("Mercado") with a reasonable good selection that is located a ferry rid off the trail. Image: Jan Dudeck]][[File:GPT22_Guest_at_Settler.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT22: Being a paying guest at a settlers home. Image: Jan Dudeck]][[File:GPT07_Lettuce_and_Goat_Meat.jpg|thumb|500px|GPT07 and GPT22: Goat meat and lettuce locally sourced. Image: Jan Dudeck]] ====Cost of Travelling in Chile and Argentina====Chile and Argentina are not budget or low-cost travel countries. Prices are similar or even higher if compared with North America and Europe. South of Puerto Montt where the Patagonian heartland starts prices get even higher due to the costly logistics.  To cover the cost while hiking on the GPT you should have a budget of approximately 1000 US Dollars per person per month. 800 US Dollars per person per month is the bare minimum and you should not attempt this trail if you have less money available. This travel budget pays for all food, occasionally an accommodation, local transport i.e. to get to the trail and to bus to resupply towns and this budget covers entrance fees where applicable. This monthly travel budget does not include the airfare to Chile or Argentina and excludes purchasing your hiking gear.  Be a good ambassador of the hiking community and be generous where you are treated with generosity. If you get food or accommodation give what is appropriate even if they don’t ask for money. Insist if necessary! The general rule is that you ask to get the right-of-way for free but any product or service is paid fairly. Consider that the herdsmen, the indigenous Pehuenche and the settlers along the trail can’t effort to be generous trail angles. If they grant you the right-of-way you already received a gift. By paying for food and services you create a positive experience with hikers what is essential to maintain the trail open.  Since the number of hikers is quite low many locals are not aware what products and services they may offer. Therefore we often ask. If we see i.e. some tempting fruits and vegetables in the garden we ask if they sell us some. If we see chicken running around than this means that eggs might in supply. If we are really lucky and they recently slaughtered an animal than we might even buy some meet. If you don’t want to reply on your luck for meat then you may ask if they sell an entire goat or lamb. Don’t worry, you don’t need to butchered it yourself; they can do it for you. Flour to bake bread is something that most people along the trail have abundantly. Buying a kilogram or two is often possible. To not pressure a person in selling, we often ask indirectly, we ask i.e. who in the area can sell us a certain products or offers a service i.e. accommodation. This gives the asked person the possibility to say: “I do!” or to refer to someone else or to say that he does not know. Feel free to ask in this way, what really matters is that you pay what is appropriate. I will add a list with the typical price range later.  If you are in a remote place along the route and someone offers you some food or accommodation than please don't bargain for a discount if the asking price is reasonable. Take it or leave it! I experienced these locals on the trail as generous and reasonable and haggling would be in most cases rude.<!--Typical prices (Minimum / Average / Maximum): * Groceries similar or even 50% higher if compared with the US and Europe (in the far south even more)* Imported products in super markets approx. 100% more expensive* Bus: Approx. 1500 CLP / 2000 CLP / 2500 CLP per hour (approx. 80 km)* Accommodation: 8000 CLP / 12000 CLP / 20000 CLP per person per night* Warm meal: 2500 CLP / 4000 CLP / 6000 CLP per meal* Bread: 1000 CLP / 1500 CLP / 2500 CLP per kg of bread* Flour: 600 CLP / 1000 CLP / 1500 CLP per kg* Cheese: 4000 CLP / 6000 CLP / 8000 CLP per kg of cheese* Live goat: 30000 CLP / 35000 CLP / 40000 CLP per animal with approx. 10 km of meat* Live lamb: 40000 CLP / 50000 CLP / 60000 CLP per animal with approx. 10 km of meat Cost savers: * Harina tostada* Make your own bread* The classics: Rice / Pasta / Mashed Potatoes--> ====What to Bring and What to Leave====If you come from overseas than my recommendation is bringing all your gear but no food. Camping is very popular in Chile and Argentina but finding light and rugged hiking gear is difficult. And if you find it, it will probably cost 50% more than in the US or Europe. There are a few specialist stores in Santiago de Chile and in the more popular tourist towns what is good if you need to replace a lost or a damaged item. But you don’t want to buy all your gear there.  Bringing food is neither necessary nor advisable. Any food product that may carry agricultural diseases is strictly banned from being imported. In particular Chile is very strict and they check all bags on each border. Anything fresh, like fruits including dehydrated fruits, vegetables, raw meat products like Salami or raw ham, cheese, honey, eggs and all kinds of seeds are confiscated on the border and destroyed, even a left over garlic clove. Only processed food that is basically sterile can be taken into Chile. This also applies when coming from Argentina into Chile. More to this subject later.b
===Understanding the Hosts===
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