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Greater Patagonian Trail

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This Hiker’s Manual is the primary source of information to the GPT. The Hiker’s Manual consists of three parts:
* 1 Introduction and General Information: Chapter 1 provides a general overview and a good understanding of the nature of the GPT. You should be read the entire chapter 1 thoroughly if you consider hiking on this route network because this part of the Hiker’s Manual guides you through your preparation.* 2 Terrain and Section Information: Chapter 2 familiarizes you with the geography of the southern Andes and dives deep into each section of the GPT. This local knowledge is essential to thoughtfully select your route on this vast network and to prepare yourself for each section when actually hiking on the GPT. Therefore, parts of chapter 2 are important to read during the preparation phase while other parts will become your guide when hiking on the GPT.
2 Terrain and Section Information and  * 3 Appendix and Indices. Chapter 1 provides a general overview and a good understanding of the nature of the GPT. You should be read the entire chapter 1 thoroughly if you consider hiking on this route network because this part of the Hiker’s Manual guides you through your preparation. Chapter 2 familiarizes you with the geography of the southern Andes and dives deep into each section of the GPT. This local knowledge is essential to thoughtfully select your route on this vast network and to prepare yourself for each section when actually hiking on the GPT. Therefore, parts of chapter 2 are important to read during the preparation phase while other parts will become your guide when hiking on the GPT. : Chapter 3 goes deep into specific topics. You will require this expertise for specific tasks i.e. when setting up your GPS or when calculating distances and estimated travel times. The Appendix also contains valuable additional information that benefit a profounder and ampler understanding of the GPT and the region that this this route network traverses.
The Hiker’s Manual is currently not available on paper but only as a PDF document. It is designed to be read on a computer or on a smartphone while being online or offline. Therefore, it is issued in the screen-friendly 9:16 page format with letters large enough to be still reasonable readable on a small smart phone screen. When reading this document best use full screen slide mode in landscape orienta¬tion. Normal vertical scrolling is less practical. Install a suitable app on your smartphone if needed.
The informal and provisional nature of the GPT makes it relevant that hikers quickly exchange updates and recommendations while travelling on this evolving route network. For this pur¬pose the GPT Facebook Group was created. Here all hikers can post brief summaries after completing a section and leave notes that might be beneficial for others that are en route. This can be information to temporary unpassable trail sections, volcano alerts, river conditions or anything that makes you think in hindsight: “I should have known this before!”.
The GPT Facebook Group may also be useful for individual hikers that plan to walk on this trail network and that seek others to join into small groups. Here you can post your hiking plans before you depart and link up with other hikers. The GPT Facebook Group is also the location where I now notify hikers4 hikers when updated track files are available and where I share other significant news to the GPT. To become member of the GPT Facebook Group you need a Facebook account and request access with the following this link:
[https://m.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455?ref=bookmarks https://m.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455?ref=bookmarks]
[[File:GPT03-2014-Pano-Pic014.jpg|thumb|500px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 3: Carrying fire wood for the next night. File: Jan Dudeck]]
The sections 2 and 3 can be combined with an alternative trail through a pristine area that bypasses the settlement and the road at the finish of section 2 and the start of section 3.
 
The sections 3 and 4 may also be combined by packrafting the entire Laguna Las Lajas or taking a cross country route on the eastern side of the lake. Both, the packraft and the hiking option, are quite challanging and the optional cross country trail still needs to be verfied. This alternative route bypasses the road to the town Antuco and the tiny ski resort on the base of the volcano Antuco.
 
It is even possible to combine sections 2, 3 and 4 in a extra-long super-section without passing a single village. This tripple section is a true long distance endurance challange that gets you in 3 to 4 weeks through nearly untouched wilderness. If you attempt it, you should be well aware of all the exit routes to walk out in time if you run out of food.
 
Combining sections 4 to 7 should be considered when hiking these sections. You may get some basic food i.e. in Trapa Trapa at the end of section 4 and in Guallali on section 6. You may also ask the [[#Food Supply on the Trail|Puesteros]] along the trail for food or harvest [[#Traditional Food|Araucaria cones]] to "stretch" the food that you carry in your backpack and make it last this long combined section. This would save you resupply bus trips to "nearby" villages and towns. Such resupply bus trips take two days or more due to the distances and the low bus frequency. In particular getting at the end of section 6 by bus to Lonquimay and then back to continue with section 7 might be an ordeal.
 
Also combining sections 13 to 15 is advisable to save you time consuming resupply bus trips. At the end of section 13 you may ask in a settlers home for food and at the end of section 14 you may take the ferry that runs three times per week to a tiny village, resupply in a small shop just next to the embarkation point and return shortly later with the same ferry.
| [[#Trail Files for GPS and Google Earth|See above]]
|}
 
Note that these GPX files are outdated but updates are included in the updated trail files issued in 2016.
[[File:GPT02-2014-Pano-Pic046.jpg|thumb|500px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 2: Sudden weather change in mid-summer. File: Jan Dudeck]]
If you plan to hike the entire trail in the correct sequence starting with '''section 1''' than you should leave in December, ideally in the '''second half of December'''.
 
On the first three sections several rivers and high mountain passes need to be crossed. In particular high river-water-levels during snowmelt may make the river crossings difficult and dangerous until December. Therefore leaving before or in early December may put you in risk when crossing rivers or traversing still snow covered passes. But if you leave after December you may be surprised by the heralds of the winter before reaching the finish of the Greater Patagonian Trail if walking in a moderate pace.
 
If you do not insist in hiking all trail sections in the correct sequence then you have more options when and where to start. If you want to leave before December you may in example set out in '''late October or November''' with '''section 11''' in Liquiñe (Hiking-Only-Option) or in Reyehueico or Coñaripe (both Packraft-Option) as we did.
 
Coñaripe is a alternative start of section 11 for packrafters and the first of the 8 sections with significant packraft use. Starting with section 11 before December gives you the advantage of floating down the rivers with a comfortable high river-water-level during snow melt.
 
If you do not carry a packraft but wish to start in late October or November Liquiñe would be a good choice. Liquiñe is a village full of thermal springs and situated on the Hiking-Only-Option of section 11. This start avoids the potentially dangerous river-crossings of the first 3 sections and the rather high and exposed mountain passes of section 1, 2, 3, 6, 7 and 10. Once you reached the finish of section 18 you can travel by bus in about 3 days to the start of section 1 and hike all the way to the point from where you started the track.
 
On '''sections 5 to 10''' the trail crosses the distribution range of the [[#Traditional Food|Araucaria tree]]. '''Between February and April''' the cones of these trees can be harvested and provide plenty of nutritious free food that you do not need to carry on your back. If possible arrange to cross sections 5 to 10 between February and April. This is one more very good reason for an early start on section 11 because then you can finish in the Auracaria distribution range in late summer or early autumn and feed yourself like a food gatherer millennia’s ago.
 
Even if hiking this trail in the recommended season be prepared for [[#Weather|sudden weather changes]] with heavy snowfall, in particular when you are higher up in the mountains. Also rivers can swell anytime after heavy rain.
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==Entrance Permits and Fees==
[[File:GPT13-P0026.jpg|thumb|500px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 13: Cordon Caulle. File: Jan Dudeck]]
'''Hydropower Station Cipreses''': The Hydropower Station Cipreses is owned by Endesa and controls the valley between the Route 115 and the Laguna de La Invernada. Permanently manned gates control the northbound access from the Route 115 but there are no similar barriers when entering the property southbound over the mountains in example when coming from the volcano Descabezado. An access permit can be requested in advance and is normally granted. See the [http://www.wikiexplora.com/index.php/Laguna_y_Cr%C3%A1ter_Los_Hornitos#Permiso wikiexplora article "Laguna y Cráter Los Hornitos"] for further information.
 
'''Long Distance Challange that directly connects Section 2 and 3'''
'''Fundo Las Truchas''': The fundo Las Truchas is owned by a regional big farmer. When he purchased this ranch he first kept it open for public access to the attractive Laguna Las Truchas. Unfortunately some locals don’t treat their environment with respect and litter or fish without limits. The owner got annoyed and now denies public access in particular to local citizen. When entering the fundo Las Truchas northbound you may be send back by the guard, who lives 2 km south of the Laguna Las Truchas from late spring to autumn. If entering southbound you may be asked to leave the property in the direction you are hiking anyway.
 
'''Section 3 "Bad Weather Exit Route"'''
'''Hydropower Station El Toro''': The Hydropower Station El Toro is owned by Endesa and controls the valley Rio Polcura upstream of Abanico. A permanently manned gate controls the northbound access from Abanico. There are no similar controls when entering the property southbound from the Laguna de Las Lajas. An access permit may be requested in advance but no specific information are available where this can be done. Anyway, this restriction is not of much relevance since the regular trail on the ridge can be hiked in either direction. You only get to the Hydropower Station El Toro if get down from the ridge on the "Bad Weather Exit Route".
 
'''Section 12'''
'''Fundo Chihuio''': The fundo Chihuio is situated north of the Termas de Chihuio and owned by a rich businessman. The guard lives at the southern entrance to the ranch. He is instructed to deny access to the former public road towards Puerto Fuy and Pirihueico. When hiking southbound you will leave the property at the entrance where the guard lives.
 
'''Section 13'''
When challenged on the trail explain friendly that you are just a hiker and that you do not want anything else than passage to the next road or town. Hikers are rarely seen on most of the route and some people may suspect other interests because they simply don't know the concept of hiking. You may explain how far you already walked to gain the sympathy and respect of the guard or land owner. Guarantee that you will carry all your waste and that you will not leave any traces.
 
What we experienced on the trail seems to mirror the attitude of the Chilean society: The humble poor people on the trail opened the doors to their houses to give us shelter and they literally shared their bread with us without asking for money. But some of the super-rich denied passage over their immense properties on which they normally don’t even live when kindly asking for permission to pass.
The vast majority of citizens from Europe and North-America do not need a visa to visit Chile as a tourist. These citizens receive a tourist permit that allows them to stay up to 90 days in Chile. With an [[#Expected Duration|estimated duration]] of 90 to 120 days it is possible to complete the first 16 sections on Chilean soil in 90 days but leaves little margin for rest days or weather related delays.
 
The easiest way to renew your permit is travelling to Argentina before completing your 90 days and returning a few days later to Chile. On re-entry you will normally be granted another 90 days. Such a trip can be combined with a resupply stop in a nearby town.
 
Recommendable "visa trips" with public transportation are:
* Section 9: From Curarrehue in Chile to Junin de Los Andes or San Martin de Los Andes in Argentina
* Section 13: From Osorno in Chile to San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina
 
Alternatively you can request a tourist visa extension in Chile. This can be done in any of the 54 provincial capitals of Chile. Los Angeles, Temuco and Puerto Montt are 3 possible choices but none of the provincial capitals are conveniently close to the trail. Here you find a full list of the Chilean provinces with its capitals: [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provinces_of_Chile Wikipedia: Provinces of Chile].
 
If you do not start the trek at section 1 but do sections 11 to 18 first you will cross the border from Chile to Argentina on foot on section 16 and renew your tourist permit when returning to Chile. This will give you enough time to hike sections 1 to 10 in a comfortable pace.
 
If you insist in not taking any bus or motorized vehicle during the entire trek you have three options:
===Importation of Food===
Chile is very cautious when it comes to importing food, plants and animals. To minimize the risk of introducing pests, invasive plants and animals such imports are highly regulated and controlled. Therefore individuals are strictly banned to bring fresh fruits, vegetables, raw milk or meat products to Chile. Only processed sterile food can be imported in concealed packing’s, in example all heat treated canned items in closed containers. Thorough checks are performed by the SAG (Servicio Agrícola y Ganadero) on the airport and the border checkpoints from neighbouring countries.
 
*Example of strictly banned items:
** Raw meat and raw meat products like ham and sausages
** Honey
 
*Example of normally accepted items:
** Pasta, rice, flour and dehydrated potato puree
** Instant meals like dehydrated trekking food in concealed bags
 
When crossing the border to Chile you need to fill in a declaration if you are carrying any plant or food products. On this declaration the definition for plant or food products is very wide and includes all the permitted items as well. Therefore the best and only correct thing is to always state YES. If ask explain that you are aware of the restrictions and that you carry processed food and give examples.
 
If you state NO but something banned is found you will be charged a high fine.
 
You should also clean your boots from visible mud since mud may contain seamen of invasive plants.
 
Theoretically the same rules apply when crossing into Argentina but controls are often much more relaxed and you do not need fill and sign a declaration.
===Resupply at Nearby Towns===
There are no proper shops along the first seven sections of the trail. The first regular food store on the trail comes after 600 km at the finish of section 7. But there is a road with public transportation at the end of each section that gives you the opportunity to take a bus and to travel to the next village or town to resupply. See the table under [[#Section Information|Section Information]] with suitable resupply villages and towns.
 
In the larger cities, in example in Santiago, Talca, Chillan, Los Angeles, Osorno and Puerto Montt you find "Jumbo" supermarkets. To our impression these supermarkets offer the widest range of dehydrated food that is suitable for hiking. These supermarkets have typically a section of imported food items from Europe and North America. Here we found in example well-seasoned couscous imported from Canada, potato fritters that comes as a powder imported from Germany and dehydrated deserts that you just need to mix with cold water and milk powder to make in example a very tasty chocolate cream after your dinner. If you are fancy on good cooking in the wild then take your time and stroll through the aisle of the supermarket and try something new.
===Resupply by Bus===
The product range in smaller villages and towns is limited. In particular dehydrated trekking food may not be offered at all. If you prefer to have some special stuff that you find only in Santiago or that you bring with you from overseas you have the following option: You pack a box with food and other gear in Santiago and send the box with one of the mayor bus companies to a town where you plan a resupply stop. To send the box you do not need any address in this town; all you need to do is making yourself the recipient of your own package. The bus company will ship your box to this town in 1 or 2 days and store it until you pick it up. There you can take out of your box whatever you need and resend the box with the remaining stuff to the next resupply town where it will be stored again. Storage of up to 30 days is free of charge. This transport service by busses is called "encomienda" and functions like a postal service. Unfortunately this service is only available in larger cities. Therefore this service cannot be used to ship resupplies directly to the trail.
 
'''I advise you not to use this service offered by JAC.''' They lost one of our packages and were incredible poorly organized and ignorant to give us at least the legally required minimum refund (which was far less than the actual value). Turbus made at least a more organised impression when compared to JAC. Anyway, you should better not send valuable items i.e. a packraft but only items whose loss does not jeopardize your trip. If you plan to send valuable items anyway you should have at least the original purchase receives of these items with you. If you present these receipts before sending the package you may increase the refund value in case of loss to a substantially higher value. Without such a receipt only a rather small value can be declared (50,000 to 100,000 CLP depending on the company) and gets refunded in case the shipment is lost by the company.
 
Suitable resupply towns with bus cargo stations are (bus company in brackets):
* Puerto Montt (Turbus)
* Puerto Varas (Turbus)
 
See also the table with the [[#Section Information|Section Information]] for a full listing of resupply towns on or near the trail.
 
A true thru-hike without resupply bus trips would require the setup of food depots on strategic points along the route.
[[File:109447130.jpg|thumb|350px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 15: Shopping in the super market of El Poncho. File: Jan Dudeck]]
On this trail, in particular on the first seven sections you will meet herdsman on the summer pastures with their livestock, which are mainly cattle, sheep, goats and horses. Depending on the altitude and the snowmelt they migrate up between October and January and return to their winter quarters in April or May. These herdsman, locally called "Puestero", live in improvised permanent shelters, called "Puesto". They bring large quantities of food with their horses and mules up into the mountains. You may ask them for food, in particular for flour and bread or whatever they are willing to sell. With flour, dry yeast and salt you can bake your own fresh bread on the trail. If you are desperate for meat they may sell you a goat or a sheep but be aware, the smallest quantity for sale is typically half an animal (Spanish: "Medio Canal"). To communicate with the locals you need to speak Spanish.
 
On section 5 to 10 you will cross the distribution range of the impressive Araucaria trees, which are ancient evergreen coniferous trees. What we liked on these living fossils were not just the imposing figure, but the nutritious female seed cones that are rich in carbohydrates. These fruits or "piñones" were the main staple food for the indigenous Pehuenche people and they taught us how to harvest and prepare them. You can gather these starchy Araucaria "piñones" between February and April.
This is not a listing of all the standard trekking foods like pasta and cereals. If you attempt this long distance trail you should know all this by heart. This section lists and describes selected traditional food items that are typical for this region but may be less known outside or named differently.
 
'''Piñones''': As already mentioned under [[#Recommended Season|Recommended Season]] and [[#Food Supply on the Trail|Food Supply on the Trail]] you can become a gatherer on sections 5 to 10 and collect a good part of your food yourself along the trail if you pass this area between February and April. You just need to get the timing right and carry a strong string to harvest the mature cones of the female Araucaria trees. According to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araucaria_araucana Wikipedia] the name Araucana is derived from the native Araucanians who's main staple food were the nuts or seeds of the Araucaria tree. A group of Araucanians living in the Andes, the Pehuenches, owe their name to their diet based on harvesting of the Araucaria seeds. Pehuen means Araucaria and che means people in the native language Mapudungun.
 
The natives use a lasso to harvest the mature cones. As a hiker you probably will not carry a rather heavy lasso but you may bring a strong string with you. By trial and error we eventually choose to connect long sticks in example branches, bamboo grass and/or our hiking poles to lift a sling over a single cone and then break the cone off by pulling against the growth direction. Once you have the cone down you can open the cone with a wedge and a stone as shown on the picture above. The seeds then need to be separated and boiled for about 30 minutes with the husk. Once boiled the husk can be easily removed. Just squeeze the husk and the eatable seed will slip out easily. You can eat the seed simply cooked or fry them later.
 
'''Harina Tostada''' (Chile) or '''ñaco''' (Argentina) is toasted ground wheat and the staple food of the herdsmen. It comes as a brownish powder and tastes like corn flakes but it needs to be mixed first with a liquid to eat. The most common form is mixing with water but also beer, wine or juice can be used. Also sugar may be added if mixed with water. Depending on the mixing ratio it will be a thick paste or a liquid and makes a perfect snack during the days. Try yourself and find out how you like it most. You can buy it in all rural stores but also the big super markets sell it. It's the perfect trekking food because it's nourishing and takes little space in the backpack. See the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gofio wikipedia article] for more information to this versatile staple food.
 
'''Tortilla de Rescoldo''' is a white bread that was backed in the hot ash of a fire. Most puestos don't have a proper oven to bake bread but use the accumulated ash of the fireplace instead. The dough is made as usual with wheat flour, salt and (dry) yeast. After the dough was prepared and given the typical rest the dough is gently put in a pit in the hot ash and then also covered with hot ash. After about 10 to 15 min the bread is turned and covered with hot ash again to bake it evenly on both sides. To not burn the bread the hot ash must be free of glowing charcoal. It requires quite some experience to get the temperature and the timing right. Also the fireplace must be in use for days or weeks to accumulate sufficient ash. A typical campfire will not work because the fire itself is to hot and amount of ash is insufficient.
 
To make fresh bread on the trail our self we used our two stainless steel pots and the lid. With some self-made wire clips we suspended the slightly smaller pot within the bigger pot. This creates a small but fully functional oven because the air gap between both pots protected the content from burning when placed in or next to the fire. With this oven we did not only bake fresh bread but also pizza and an onion pie. It needs some trial and error to learn how to get the temperature right and regular turning help to bake the content evenly.
 
'''Sopaipilla''' (Chile) or '''Torta Frita''' (Argentina) is fried white bread. The same standard dough made with wheat flour, salt and (dry) yeast and given the typical dough rest period of 15 to 30 minutes. Round flat dough-cakes are formed with a hole in the middle and gently put into a pot of hot oil of fat over a fire. The hole in the middle is required to move and removed the Sopapilla with a stick.
 
'''Chivo or Cordero al Palo''': Puesteros occasionally butcher a male goat or sheep when they meet with other herdsmen or when they receive a visit to share an abounded and delicious meat feast. Female animals are normally preserved to maintain the flock so mainly the male goat get sacrificed(a rare example of male discrimination). The skinned and cleaned animal is cut into pieces and stack on a wooden pole ("palo" in Spanish). The pole is then placed next to the fire and regularly turned until the meat is ready to eat. It's crucial that the meat is well cooked to kill all potential parasites. You need to be lucky to arrive just in time for such a feast. Alternatively you may ask the puesteros along the route if they have some meat left or if they are willing to sell one animal and butcher and prepare it with you. The smallest quantity for sale is typically half an animal ("medio canal"). Once the meat is well cooked over the fire you can carry the left overs and consume it during the next two or three days.
 
'''Yerba Mate''' is a energizing caffeine-rich hot drink. You fill about half a cup with the tee-like "yerba", pour hot water over it and drink it with a special straw that acts at the same as an filter. This straw is called "bombilla". You can pour again and again water over it to keep drinking. Sharing mate with other people is a common ritual in these region. You will certainly be offered this rather bitter drink when you meet and chat with the locals. See also the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mate_%28beverage%29 wikipedia article to Mate] for more information.
 
'''Mote''' are wheat grains, which were boiled and removed from its husk and then dried again for long term storage. Mote is probably not an optimal trekking food because it needs to be soaked in water for several hours before boiling. But settlers and herdsmen often carry mote and use it as an ingredient for stews and other meals.
===Packraft and Drysuite===
A packraft is a light-weight inflatable boat designed to be carried in the backpack when not needed but to carry the backpacker and his backpack over lakes and rivers when he needs it. A packraft is not required for this trail but quite beneficial on sections 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17 and 18. It may also be used on sections 2, 3, 4 and 8. On section 1, 5, 7 and 10 it can be used for smaller side trips on lakes that are located next to the trail.
 
Here you find some [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/Packraft images of our packraft]. We use the "Explorer 42" from [http://www.alpackaraft.com/ Alpackaraft.] The total weight of the two-person-boat with paddles, two drysuites, waterproof bags and water gear is approx. 8 kg or 4 kg per person if shared. <!-- Recently new manufacturer entered this market, i.e. MRS and Nortik, offering similar suitable packrafts. In particular the "MRS - Adventure X2" is probably a good choise for a group of two hikers. You find these inflatable boats in the German [http://www.packrafting-store.de/Packrafts:::43.html Packrafting-Store]. Also several other packraft related items are sold by this specialized online store and can be shipped internationally.-->
 
I strongly recommend the use of a drysuite whenever paddeling in this area regardless of the size of the river, lake of fjord. This is the only suiteable protection against hypothermia in case you get wet or you get out of the boat on the water. Be aware that water temperatures are often quite low. Wind can suddenly increase and build up high waves in a matter of minutes that splash you wet with cold water or even flip your boat. Also on most rivers, lakes and fjords that are included in the packraft route suitable exit points are scarce. So don't rely on getting quickly out of the water when needed. The first two years we paddled without using a drysuite but I consider this now a beginner's mistake.
 
The packraft did not made us faster but made our trip much more diverse. It is just great to walk to the shore of a lake or river, take the backpack down, inflate the boat, store the gear, take a seat and paddle off. A packraft brings an other "dimension" into the trip.
 
Section 1 to 20: At two larger lakes you can alternatively take a daily ferry (Lago Pirihueco) or a private boat transfer (Lago Todos Los Santos). For all other lakes and rivers alternative trails, which circumvent the water are included in the [[#Trail Files for GPS and Google Earth|Trail Files for GPS and Google Earth]] above. So you can bypass on foot all paddle parts if you do not have a packraft or if i.e. wind and weather do not permit the crossing of a lake with a rather tiny boat.
 
Section 21 to 27: In Palena the Hiking-Only-Option and the Packraft-Option of the Greater Patagonian Trail take a completely different routes. Both option rejoin briefly on Section 26 in the area of Cerro Castillo. When taking the Packraft-Option you do not have an easy connection to the Hiking-Only-Option so be well prepared to paddle long distances when taking this route.
 
Enter lakes, fjords and rivers with your packraft only in suitable weather conditions. Note that on sunny days wind typically increases substantially around noon and often blows very strong till the evening. Therefore packrafting on lakes and fjords is something for early risers.
 
Most but not all lakes have a predominant wind direction. The route is choosen in way that you have more likely favourable wind from the back than wind against you but on some lakes the predominant wind will blow you right into face. Most but not all river sections are relatively well wind-shilded. In particular the last part of Río Palena and Río Ibañez are quite exposed to wind.
 
If weather is unsuitable for packrafting take the alternative hiking options around the water or simply wait for better weather but do not jeopardize yourself.
 
The Packraft-Option also enters two fjords that are connected with the Pacific; the Estuario de Reloncaví on Section 16 and the Fjordo Pipiplena on Section 22. Here tides strongly affect water levels and currents. Understand the the tide cycles and get a current tide chart before before you enter these waters. In certain areas of these fjords tidal currents can outpace your packraft. Both fjords are best entered with a falling tide just after high tide. Also be very cautious when camping on the shore of these fjords and better avoid it. Make sure that you camp above the spring tide level. The trift wood on these shores can indicate you to what level the water may rise.
===GPS and Electronic Map===
The trail is mostly unmarked and only smaller fractions are documented with maps. Long stretches of the trail are only vaguely visible and frequently the trail peters out or divides into several branches. Therefore a GPS is absolutely essential for navigation. You need a handheld GPS devise to which you can upload the trail files. Spare batteries or recharge options are required to keep the GPS devise functional long enough.
 
In addition an electronic topographical map is recommended.
 
We used a Garmin GPS with the Garmin TOPO Chile Deluxe electronic map (TOPO Chile Deluxe sold for 80 USD). The topographical profile, rivers, lakes, road and towns are precisely mapped. Only smaller streams, smaller lagoons and some trails are partly incorrecly placed on this electronic map. The Garmin TOPO Chile Deluxe is more precise than the TOPO Andes (see below) and has more details but covers only Chile and is good for section 1 to 16 only.
 
Garmin now offers also an electronic topographical map that covers all Chile, Argentina and Bolivia (TOPO Andes sold for 100 USD). If you are planning to hike the entire trail and future extensions to the south then the TOPO Andes map is the suitable choice.
 
I do not recommend the purchase of paper maps. The Chilean Instituto Geográfico Militar (IGM) offers topographic maps with a scale of 1:50'000 for the entire Chile but these maps often do not contain the trails and may be outdated. There are a few hiking maps for some popular areas showing some but not all trails that are used by the GPT. So the extra cost and additional weight of paper maps do not justify to my opinion the minor benefit of paper maps.
 
If you are looking for an backup devise to your handheld GPS you may consider the inReach Explorer from Delorme which is not only a satellite tracker but can also be setup as navigator. I do not recommend this devise as a substitude for a handheld GPS due to the small screen, the limited battery life the limited number of tracks and waypoints that can be uploaded. But in case your handheld GPS fails, gets damaged or lost the inReach Explorer is a suitable backup if setup with the route and selected waypoints before starting the trip.
[[File:GPT06-P0028.jpg|thumb|450px|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 6: Cross Country at "Las Monjas". File: Jan Dudeck]]
The Greater Patagonian Trail requires endurance not only because of the total trail lenght but the rather long trail sections. The first three sections exceed 100 km each without regular resupply points on the route. If combining sections the distances become even larger and can reach or exceed 300 km.
 
Hiking this trail requires a detailed planning and preparation before and during the hike. The gear needs to be reduced to what is essential. Before each section the correct type and quantity of food needs to be selected and carried.
 
The isolation of some parts of the trail demand a self-reliant attitude and cautious behaviour. The hiker needs to feel confident and move safely in various terrains, that reach from snow covered mountains passes to dense tempered rain forests.
 
Sudden weather changes may happen anytime in this mountainous region. The hiker needs to be prepared and equipped to master in example an surprising snow storm and closing in clouds while crossing a mountain pass.
 
Good navigational skills are essential since the route is mostly unmarked. The hiker needs to recognize and follow the often only vaguely visible trails that frequently peter out or divides into several branches. Here the hiker needs follow his "sixth sense" while verifying and comparing the taken route with the recommended GPS tracks. Good knowledge in setting up and using a GPS is compulsory.
 
This trail should only be attempted with at least some Spanish knowledge and practice. You need to be able to introduce yourself, explain what you are doing, buy food and other supplies and organize your bus trips to and from the trail. Hardly anyone along the trail speaks or understands even a few words in English.
 
The following skills are NOT required:
====[[Huella Andina]]====
The [[Huella Andina]] is a long distance trail on the Argentine side of the Patagonian Andes with a combined total length of 564 km. This trail is a mostly signposted and marked hiking trail and substantially less demanding when compared with the Greater Patagonian Trail. The Huella Andina was developed considering that hiking novices may walk this trail. Therefore neither optimal equipment nor plenty of hiking experience are a precondition to take this route. The Huella Andina provides a resupply point at least on every second day. A GPS is not required to follow this trail. To the knowledge of the author of this article no full GPS record nor detailed hiking maps are published yet for the Huella Andina but trail descriptions are available on [http://www.wikiexplora.com/index.php/Huella_Andina Wikiexplora].
 
The project was initiated by Estefania Chereguini and Walter Oszust in 2008. During their leadership of the project most stages were defined and marked. Read the Spanish articles [http://www.senderodechile.cl/opiniones/huella-andina-un-sueno-de-caminos-y-horizontes-patagonicos-hecho-realidad/ Huella Andina: Un sueño de caminos y horizontes patagónicos hecho realidad] and [http://senderoslatinoamericanos.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/FUND-TECNICOS-S-LARGO-REC-HUELLA-ANDINA-Chereguini-Oszust.pdf Fundamoentos Técnicos de Senderos de Larga Recorrido Huella Andina] for more information to this ambitious and promising long distance trail project.
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==Creation of the Greater Patagonian Trail==
[[File:GPT12-P0006.jpg|thumb|1050px|none|Greater Patagonian Trail Section 12: Lago Pirihueico. File: Jan Dudeck]]
===Idea for the Trail===
I did my first hike in Patagonia in 2002 and returned several times in the following years. As most casual hikers I used a trekking guide book (Lonely Planet: "Trekking in the Patagonian Andes") and ventured only onto trails described by books or printed on maps. It did not even appear to me to go beyond.
 
A few years later I was recommended the "Adventure Handbook Central Chile" from Franz Schubert and Malte Sieber. This booked introduced me to the often overlooked area between the Chilean capital Santiago and Patagonia. Before reading this book I always passed this area without seriously considering to stop before reaching Patagonia.
 
In 2011 my girlfriend and I planned to do the hike to the Laguna las Truchas that is recommended in the "Adventure Handbook Central Chile". But before we set out we were told by locals that the landlord does not let pass any backpackers. The locals recommended a different trail instead for which we had no guide books, no maps and no guide willing to lead us. After long considerations we eventually took our backpacks and hiked on our own to the impressive Laguna Dial. We were surprised to walk on well maintained trails where maps are simply blank. In the following months and years we repeated this experience and learned that there are plenty of perfectly hikeable trails where maps show nothing but wilderness. When I reviewed our hikes on Google Earth I also noticed with surprise that these trails are often visible on the satellite images, in particular in areas without dense forest. This showed me a new method how to plan further hikes.
 
Two years later in 2013 I was wondering how far you can possibly walk through the Andes using the few published the many undocumented trails. More out of curiosity I started searching for a continuous trail in Google Earth trying to incorporate the best trails that I hiked so far. In a lengthy tedious search using Google Earth and all other material available to me I planned a constantly growing trail. I finally had a route that I estimated to be 1400 km.
===Planning of the Trail===
The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that was planned and set up by a government agency. It’s better: it’s a compilation of the most beautiful and diverse hiking and horse trails, minor roads and cross country sections through the Patagonian Andes selected by a passionate hiker.
 
This genesis prevented that the routing of the trail was compromised and deformed by local interests and political constraints. The track could be chooses freely on either side of the border; on the Chilean side and the Argentine side of the Andes. There were also no “must-include” towns, villages or places because influential local politicians decided so. Simple the most attractive hikeable route could be selected, without any influence or other interests.
* The route is continuous without any gaps
* The track can be hiked legally without unauthorized border crossings
 
The trail was planned in 2013 by Jan Dudeck using:
===First Hike of the Trail===
On November 12, 2013 I started with my girlfriend Meylin Ubilla in Coñaripe at the alternative starting point of section 11. We both had no previous long distance hiking experience and never used a packraft before.
 
During the hike we had a few moments of doubt because the route disappeared several times in impenetrable forest. But we always managed to find passable trail even if it meant returning a day’s hike. After about half the trail I became a bit concerned that we may run out of time before reaching our goal. But we kept going with a steady pace without worrying too much.
 
On February 23, 2014 we finally arrived again in Coñaripe were we set out a 104 days before. Our GPS summed up roughly hiked 1'600 km and 50'000 m climbed. We actually walked on 80 days with the remaining time used to resupply, rest and to travel from the end of section 16 to the start of section 1.
 
About one year later, from December 18, 2014 to February 9, 2015 we returned to the Greater Patagonian Trail and refined sections 3, 10 and 11 and hiked most of section 17 and 18 to extend the trail further south. We also crossed Laguna Dial (section 2) and Lago Pirihueico (section 12) by packraft what we did not dare the year before because we lacked at this time the packraft experience. And for the years to come we plan more hikes and packraft trips to [[#Trail_Extensions|extent the trail even further]].
While hiking the trail I have long thought how to name this trail. I was looking for a precise but well descriptive name.
 
The trail crosses various regions that are rather unknown outside of Chile and Argentina. Few people have ever heard about Maule or Bio-Bio and might associate whatever with these words but not an outstanding trekking region. Therefore naming the trail after the actual regions seamed not a good choice.
 
On the other side naming the trail after the Andes like "Andes Trail" would be a huge exaggeration because the trail spans only a smaller part of this 7000 km long mountain range.
 
Naming the trail after Patagonia like "Patagonian Trail" would be incorrect, because most of the trail is actually not located in Patagonia at least when applying the traditional limits of this region. Most of the trail is on the Chilean side where only the regions Aysén and Magallanes further south are traditionally considered part of Patagonia. See the map: "Traditional limits of Patagonia".
 
To be precise and well descriptive at the same time I decided to use the geographic term "Greater Patagonia" that includes Patagonia in its traditional limits and the surrounding area like "Greater London" includes the city of London and the surroundings. On the Argentine side Patagonia reaches much further north than on the Chilean side and has it's limit at the Río Colorado with its spring near the Laguna del Maule. This is the latitude where section 1 ends and section 2 starts. So "Greater Patagonia" applies very well to the entire trail region because all parts of the route are located not more then 100 km outside of the traditional limits of Patagonia.
 
The name "Greater Patagonian Trail" seams a good choice because:
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==Questions and Feedbacks==
If you have questions that are not answered in this trail descriptions then you may send an email to the author of this article. Also your feedbacks are very welcome. Please report any changes or errors to correct the trail description and the trail file. Your GPS records are very helpful to update the not yet confirmed parts of the trail. If you have change and extension proposals please send the proposal ideally with a GPS record to the author. Alternative routes, that are more attractive for hiking will be included as a trail option or result in a change of the regular route.
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==Section Descriptions==
The section descriptions below provide supplementary information to all sections of the Greater Patagonian Trail and will be issued in the following months.
 
An experienced hiker in explorers mood with good Spanish knowledge and planning skills will be able to hike the entire Greater Patagonian Trail without these detailed descriptions by fully exploiting the information provided in the detailed KMZ file for trekking.
* '''Ascent: 1380 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 1770 meters ↓'''
 
The fourth section of the Greater Patagonian Trail sets out on the base of volcano Antuco; a nearly perfect cone build with pitch black volcanic rocks and boulders. You can optionally climb this summit before continuing on the regular route. It’s a demanding long ascent over rather loose piles of sharp volcanic rocks that make the returning descent even more tiresome. But if the weather favours you, you get rewarded with an outlook that reaches north to the volcano Chillan and south to the volcano Copahue; a total distance that takes about 10 days to hike.
After crossing a saddle and descending into the Valley Queuco you finally reach the Pehuenche settlement Trapa Trapa. If you ask around and you are lucky you may stay for a night with one of the families.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2004 images of section 4 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
* '''Ascent: 1490 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 1500 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2005 images of section 5 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
* '''Ascent: 2530 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 2270 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2006 images of section 6 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
* '''Ascent: 2600 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 2800 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2008 images of section 8 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
* '''Ascent: 2080 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 2870 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2010 images of section 10 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
* '''Ascent: x meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: x meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
* '''Ascent: 2980 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 2700 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
* '''Ascent: 4850 meters ↑'''
* '''Descent: 4690 meters ↓'''
 
Summary to be issued.
 
Here you can see plenty of [http://www.panoramio.com/user/7876187/tags/GPT%20Section%2016 images of section 16 of the Greater Patagonian Trail] that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
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==Other trails in Chile==
{{Trekkings Chile}}
[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]
[[category:Parche Greater Patagonian Trail]]
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