Sendero Gran Patagonia
Summary
This first long distance trail in South America leads right through the heart of the legendary Patagonian Andes. It's a stunningly beautiful and diverse trail that crosses volcanic fields, idyllic Andean valleys, snow covered mountain ranges, lush green forests and deep blue lakes and rivers.
On this trail you will meet herdsmen with their animals, indigenous Pehuenche on their homeland and courageous settlers that ventured into a challenging backcountry.
The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that was planned and set up by a government agency. It’s better: it’s a compilation of the most beautiful and diverse trails, minor roads and cross country sections through the Patagonian Andes selected by a passionate hiker.
Images
Here you find a selection of images from the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uploaded to Panoramio.
KMZ File for Trekking
The KMZ file displayed on the satellite map above is optimized to provide a good overview but does not include waypoints and detailed information for hiking. Therefore the KMZ file below should be downloaded and used if you actually plan to hike a section or the entire Greater Patagonian Trail.
Greater Patagonian Trail with waypoints, options and alternatives: KMZ file (Update from 2014-Aug-06)
Read the comment to the KMZ file after downloading to understand the structure and nomenclature of this file.
Trail Sections
The entire trail consists of 16 sections that require between 2 to 10 days each. Every section connects seamless with the following section and starts and ends near a road with public transportation. Therefore each section can be hiked as an individual trail or several sections can be combined to a longer trip.
The sections 2 and 3 can be combined with an alternative trial through a pristine area that bypasses the settlement and the road at the finish of section 2 and the start of section 3. This double section makes a true long distance endurance challange that gets you in 2 to 3 weeks through nearly untouched wilderness without passing a single village or a public road.
| Section Name | Number | Distance | Ascent | Descent | Days | Time | Villages and towns on the trail or near the finish for resupply |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trail Start | - | - | - | - | - | - | Santiago de Chile, Curicó, Molina |
| Volcán Descabezado | GPT01 | 103 km | 4970 m ↑ | 4870 m ↓ | 6 - 8 d | 34 h | San Clemente, Talca |
| Laguna Dial | GPT02 | 144 km | 5390 m ↑ | 5430 m ↓ | 7 - 10 d | 43 h | San Fabian, San Carlos, Chillán |
| Volcán Chillan | GPT03 | 129 km | 6420 m ↑ | 5820 m ↓ | 7 - 10 d | 42 h | Antuco, Los Angeles |
| Alternative Long Distance Challange via Las Truchas | GPT02-03 | 279 km | 12710 m ↑ | 12100 m ↓ | 14 - 21 d | 89 h | Antuco, Los Angeles |
| Volcán Antuco | GPT04 | 57 km | 1380 m ↑ | 1770 m ↓ | 3 - 5 d | 15 h | Ralco, Santa Bárbara, Los Angeles |
| Laguna El Barco | GPT05 | 43 km | 1490 m ↑ | 1500 m ↓ | 2 - 4 d | 13 h | Ralco, Santa Bárbara, Los Angeles |
| Guallali | GPT06 | 50 km | 2530 m ↑ | 2270 m ↓ | 3 - 4 d | 17 h | Lonquimay |
| Laguna Marinanqui | GPT07 | 82 km | 2870 m ↑ | 3030 m ↓ | 5 - 7 d | 24 h | Liucura on the trail, Lonquimay |
| Laguna Icalma and Volcán Sollipulli | GPT08 | 96 km | 2600 m ↑ | 2800 m ↓ | 5 - 7 d | 27 h | Icalma and Reigolil on the trail, Curarrehue, Pucon |
| Curarrehue | GPT09 | 70 km | 1860 m ↑ | 1680 m ↓ | 3 - 5 d | 19 h | Curarrehue on the trail, Pucon |
| Volcán Quetrupillan | GPT10 | 59 km | 2080 m ↑ | 2870 m ↓ | 3 - 5 d | 18 h | Coñaripe on the trail, Pucon |
| Neltume | GPT11 | 57 km | 950 m ↑ | 570 m ↓ | 3 - 4 d | 14 h | Neltume and Puerto Fuy on the trail |
| Lago Pirihueico | GPT12 | 86 km | 2210 m ↑ | 2720 m ↓ | 4 - 6 d | 24 h | Chabranco on the trail, Llifén, Futrono |
| Volcán Puyehue | GPT13 | 70 km | 2980 m ↑ | 2700 m ↓ | 4 - 6 d | 22 h | Entre Lagos, Osorno |
| Volcán Antillanca | GPT14 | 39 km | 1800 m ↑ | 2040 m ↓ | 3 - 4 d | 13 h | El Poncho, Puerto Rico, Osorno |
| Lago Todos Los Santos | GPT15 | 83 km | 2100 m ↑ | 2190 m ↓ | 4 - 6 d | 22 h | Ralún and Cochamó on the trail, Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt |
| Cochamó | GPT16 | 145 km | 4850 m ↑ | 4690 m ↓ | 7 - 10 d | 42 h | Llanada Grande on the trail, Lago Puelo, El Bolson |
| Complete Greater Patagonian Trail | GPT | 1311 km | 46480 m ↑ | 46950 m ↓ | 69 - 103 d | 389 h | - |
Read the comment to distances, ascents, descents and walking times to correctly understand the recording, calculation and relevance of these numerical values.
Trail profile
The following image shows the altitude profile along the trek, excluding the side trips, and considering the use of a raft. The red vertical lines separate the different sections. Click to enlarge
Trail Types
When planning the Greater Patagonian Trail the first choice were the hiking or horse trails that traverse the remote valleys and mountain passes in the heart of the Andes close to the border between Chile and Argentina. Most of these trails are created and maintained by local herdsmen to drive animals to their pastures.
The second choice were unused or rarely travelled dirt roads. Such roads typically provide access to isolated settlements or villages without transit traffic. Some of these roads are not maintained anymore and not accessible by vehicle but passable for hikers.
In some areas the Greater Patagonian Trail crosses through open terrain without a visible trail. Some of these cross-country parts lead through steep and exposed terrain but do not require technical climbing. The cross-country routes also do not pass very dense vegetation and can be hiked without a machete to cut a trail. Valdivian and Magellanic temperate rainforests is very dense and is not suitable for hiking cross-country.
Public roads with transit traffic were avoided wherever possible. Paved roads were the last choice of all.
In the Chilean River- and Lake-District the Greater Patagonian Trail incorporates one river downstream float and several lakes crossings with a packraft. If not carrying such a light-weight inflatable boat all these water sections can be bypassed on food, by ferry or with private boat transfers.
| Trail Type | Distance | Percentage | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Minor Dirt Road | 532 km | 40.6% | No or light traffic only. Can also be an abandoned road or a private road that is not open for public use. |
| Hiking or Horse Trail | 486 km | 37.1% | Mostly visible trail on any terrain. |
| Lake (Packraft) | 95 km | 7.3% | Lake crossing with packraft. Alternative options are available if not carrying a packraft. |
| Mayor Dirt Road | 83 km | 6.3% | Public dirt roads with moderate traffic. |
| Cross Country | 73 km | 5.6% | Track that pases through open landscape without a visisble trail. |
| To be verified | 15 km | 1.2% | Remains to be hiked and recorded by GPS to update the trail file. Alternative option available if not in explorers mood. |
| River (Packraft) | 15 km | 1.1% | River downstream float. Alternative hiking options are available if not carrying a packraft. |
| Paved Road | 11 km | 0.8% | Only few shorter segments at the start or finish of a sections. |
| Complete Trail | 1311 km | 100.0% | - |
Expected Duration
The complete trail can be hiked in one summer season and requires approx. 90 to 120 days if walking with a moderate pace. This inculdes some rest days, resupply bus trips to nearby towns and an occasional day lost to bad weather.
Recommended Season
If you plan to hike the entire trail in the correct sequence starting with section 1 you should leave within December.
On the first sections several rivers and high mountain passes need to be crossed. In particular high river-water-levels during snowmelt may make the river crossings difficult and dangerous until early December. Therefore leaving before December may put you in risk when crossing rivers or traversing still snow-covered passes. But if you leave after December you may be surprised by the heralds of the winter before reaching the finish of the Greater Patagonian Trail.
If you do not insist in hiking all trail sections in the correct sequence then you have more options when and where to start. If you want to leave before December and you have a packraft you may in example set out in late October or November in Coñaripe as we did. This is the start of section 11 and the first of the six packraft sections. Starting with this section before December give you the advantage of floating down the river Caucuá with a comfortable high river-water-level during snow melt. Once you reached the finish of section 16 you can travel by bus to the start of section 1 an hike all the way to the point where you started the track.
On sections 6 to 10 the trail crosses the distribution range of the Araucaria tree. Between February and April the cones of these trees can be harvested and provide plenty of nutritious food. If possible arrange to cross sections 6 to 10 during these months.
Trekking Direction
The generally recommended trekking direction is southbound even if most sections can be hiked in either direction.
Some sections require an entrance permit if you hike northbound. This limitation applies to section 1, 2-3 and 12. Without an entrance permit you may be “kicked out” but if you walk southbound this means leaving the property in the direction that you are hiking anyway.
Also for section 11 the southbound limitation applies but for a different reason. Only in this direction you can float down the river Caucuá with your packraft. If you want to hike section 11 northbound you need to take a rather boring dirt road with moderate traffic.
For section 15 the recommended trekking direction is also southbound. If you go south you can ask shortly before reaching the Lago Todos Los Santos a local settler for a private boat transfer. In the other direction this may not work as easy. So if you do not have a packraft or if you are unsure that you really want to cross such a rather large lake with a tiny boat than hike the section 15 southbound.
Entrance Permits and Fees
The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that is set up and managed by a government agency. Is simply a compilation of horse trails, minor roads and some cross country sections that pass over private properties and state owned land.
Nearly the entire trail can be hiked without entrance permits or paying entrance fees. And what is even better: many of the humble people that live along the trail will welcome you or even invite you to stay. Here hospitality matters!
But there are a few exceptions; some are already briefly mentioned above under Trekking Direction.
Unfortunately the public right of way is vague and sometimes ignored in Chile. By Chilean law the access to the coast, to lakes and to rivers is a public right but there are numerous locations where this gets disregarded. There are simply no penalties if someone unlawfully denies passage. I'm not sufficiently familiar with Chilean law to state if a similar public right of way applies to all the connecting trails and roads on private properties. But if it exists it’s occasionally disregarded. Some rich landlords with huge plots employ guards and instruct them to deny access to anyone.
Entrance Permits and Challenges
Section 1
Hydropower Station Cipreses: The Hydropower Station Cipreses is owned by Endesa and controls the valley between the Route 115 and the Laguna de La Invernada. Permanently manned gates control the northbound access from the Route 115 but there are no similar barriers when entering the property southbound over the mountains in example when comming from the volcano Descabezado. An access permit can be requested in advance and is normally granted. See the wikiexplora article "Laguna y Cráter Los Hornitos" for further information.
Section 2-3
Fundo Las Truchas: The fundo Las Truchas is owned by a regional big farmer. When he purchased this ranch he first kept it open for public access to the attractive Laguna Las Truchas. Unfortunately some locals don’t treat their environment with respect and litter or fish without limits. The owner got annoyed and now denies public access in particular to local citizen. When entering the fundo Las Truchas northbound you may be send back by the guard, who lives 2 km south of the Laguna Las Truchas from late spring to autumn. If entering southbound you may be asked to leave the property in the direction you are hiking anyway.
Section 3 "Bad Weather Option"
Hydropower Station El Toro: The Hydropower Station El Toro is owned by Endesa and controls the valley Rio Polcura upstream of Abanico. A permanently manned gate controls the northbound access from Abanico. There are no similar controls when entering the property southbound from the the Laguna de Las Lajas. An access permit may be requested in advance but no specific information are available where this can be done.
Section 12
Reserve Huilo Huilo: During the later days of the Pinochet Regime large parts of the state owned forest around the Lago Pirihueico were sold under obscure circumstances to the German immigrant Victor Petermann. He later converted the forest into a “private for profit natural reserve”. The emphasis seems to be on profit. Permanently manned gates now limit access to guests of the luxury resorts on this immense property. Wood logging continues in more hidden parts of the “profit reserve”. When we attempted to take the former public road from Puerto Fuy to Pirihueico we were turned back on several of the gates. For this reason we took the ferry over the lago Piriheuco and walked the same road but from the other side where we did not encounter any manned gates or objections. See the wikipedia article to the Complejo Forestal y Maderero Panguipulli.
Fundo Chihuio: The fundo Chihuio is situated north of the Termas de Chihuio and owned by a rich businessman. The guard lives at the southern entrance to the ranch. He is instructed to deny access to the former public road towards Puerto Fuy and Pirihueico. When hiking southbound you will leave the property at the entrance where the guard lives.
Section 13
Fundo Carrán: The Fundo Carrán is located south of the Lago Maihue. We crossed the Lago Maihue southbound and entered the fundo Carrán unknowingly from the shore of the Lago Maihue. We than walked about 5 km until we reached a locked gate just before a public road. We could easily climb over the locked gate to continue on the public road. On this locked gate is a signboard that prohibits public access.
Entrance Fees
Section 13
Southbound Access to Cordon Caulle: A very fiendly and helpful older couple lives at the northern access to the Cordon Caulle and volcano Puyehue. They own the forest with the road that provides access to volcanic area where 2011 a mayor erruption occured. They offer shelter if the weather does not permit a crossing of the volcanic plateou. They charged a 6'000 CLP entrance fee.
Northbound Access to Cordon Caulle: The restaurant "El Caulle" is situated at the southern access to the Puyehue and Cordon Caulle. They maintain the refuge higher up on the foot of the volcano Puyehue. They charged a 10'000 CLP entrance fee.
Conclusion
When challenged on the trail explain friendly that you are just a hiker and that you do not want anything else than passage to the next road or town. Hikers are rarely seen on most of the route and some people may suspect other interests because they simply don't know the concept of hiking. You may explain how far you already walked to gain the sympathy and respect of the guard or land owner. Gurantee that you will carry all your waste and that you will not leave any traces.
What we experienced on the trail seems to mirror the attitude of the Chilean society: The humble poor people on the trail opened the doors to their houses to give us shelter and they literally shared their bread with us without even asking for it. But some of the super-rich denied passage over their immense properties on which they normally don’t even live when kindly asking for permission to pass.
Logistical Considerations
Tourist Visa
As a non-Chilean tourist with a regular tourist visa you can stay up to 90 days in Chile. With an estimated duration of 90 to 120 days it is possible to complete the entire trail in 90 days but leaves little margin for rest days or weather related delays.
The easiest way to renew your visa is travelling to Argentina before completing your 90 days and return a few days later to Chile. On re-entry you will normally be granted another 90 days. Such a visa trip can be combined with a resupply stop in a nearby town.
Recommendable visa trips are:
- Section 9: From Curarrehue in Chile to Junin de Los Andes or San Martin de Los Andes in Argentina
- Section 13: From Osorno in Chile to San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina
If you do not start the trek at section 1 but if you do the packraft sections 11 to 16 first you will cross the border from Chile to Argentina on food at the end of the last section and renew your turist visa when returning to Chile. This will give you enough time to hike sections 1 to 10 in a comfortable pace.
If you insist in not taking any bus or motorized vehicle during the entire trek you have three options:
- You hurry up to reach the finish of the Greater Patagonian Trail in Argentina within 90 days counted from your arrival in Chile.
- You can walk on food from Icalma in Chile to Villa Pehuenia and back (Section 8, 16 km one way).
- You request an turist visa extension in Chile.
Importation of Food
Chile is very cautious when it comes to importing food, plants and animals. To minimize the risk of introducing pests,invasive plants and animals such imports are highly regulated and controlled. Therefore individuals are strictly banned to bring fresh fruits, vegetables, raw milk or meat products to Chile. Only processed sterile food can be imported in concealed packing’s, in example all heat treated canned items in closed containers. Thorough checks are performed by the SAG (Servicio Agrícola y Ganadero) on the airport and the border checkpoints from neighbouring countries.
- Example of strictly banned items:
- Fresh and dried fruits
- Fresh cheese
- Raw meat and raw meat products like ham and sausages
- Honey
- Example of normally accepted items:
- Bread, cookies and other baked items
- All canned items even if containing milk and meat products
- Sweats like chocolate, candies and cereal bar
- Cereals, corn flakes and chocolate powder
- Pasta, rice, flour and dehydrated potato puree
- Instant meals like dehydrated trekking food in concealed bags
When crossing the border to Chile you need to fill in a declaration if you are carrying any plant or food products. On this declaration the definition for plant or food products is very wide and includes all the permitted items as well. Therefore the best and only correct thing is to always state YES. If ask explain that you are aware of the restrictions and that you carry processed food and give examples.
If you state NO but something banned is found you will be charged a high fine.
You should also clean your boots from visible mud since mud may contain seamen of invasive plants.
Theoretically the same rules apply when crossing into Argentina but controls are often much more relaxed and you do not need fill and sign a declaration.
Resupply at Nearby Towns
There are no proper shops along the first seven sections of the trail. The first regular food store on the trail comes after 600 km at the finish of section 7. But there is a road with public transportation at the end of each section that gives you the opportunity to take a bus and to travel to the next village or town to resupply. See the table under trail sections with suitable resupply villages and towns.
Resupply by Bus
The product range in smaller villages and towns is limited. In particular dehydrated trekking food may not be offered at all. If you prefer to have some special stuff that you find only in Santiago or that you bring with you from overseas you have the following option: You pack a box with food and other gear in Santiago and send the box with one of the mayor bus companies to a town where you plan a resupply stop. To send the box you do not need any address in this town; all you need to do is making yourself the recipient of your own package. The bus company will ship your box to this town in 1 or 2 days and store it until you pick it up. There you can take out of your box whatever you need and resend the box with the reamining stuff to the next resupply town where it will be stored again. Storage of up to 30 days is free of charge. This transport service by busses is called: "encomienda".
Suitable resupply towns with bus cargo stations are (bus company in brackets):
- Talca (Turbus)
- San Carlos (Turbus)
- Chillán (Turbus, JAC)
- Los Angeles (Turbus, JAC)
- Lonquimay (JAC)
- Pucon (Turbus, JAC)
- Osorno (Turbus, JAC)
- Puerto Montt (Turbus, JAC)
- Puerto Varas (Turbus, JAC)
See also the table with the Trail Sections for a full listing of resupply towns on or near the trail.
A true thru-hike would require the setup of food depots on strategic points along the route.
Food Supply on the Trail
On this trail, in particular on the first seven sections you will meet herdsman on the summer pastures with their annimals mainly cattle, sheep, goats and horses. Depending on the altitude and the snowmelt they migrate up between October and January and return home in April or May. These herdsman, locally called "Puestero", live in imporvised permanent shelters, called "Puesto". They bring large quantities of food with their horses and mules up in the mountains. You may ask them for food, in particular for flour and bread or whatever they are willing to sell. With flour, dry yeast and salt you can bake your own fresh bread on the trail. If you are desperate for meet they may sell you a goat or a sheep but be aware, the smallest quantity for sale is typically half an annimal. To communicate with the locals you need to speak Spanish.
On section 6 to 10 you will cross the distribution range of the impressive Araucaria trees, that are ancient evergreen coniferous trees. What we liked on these living fossiles were not just the imposing figure, but the nutritious female sead cones that are rich in carbohydrates. These fruites or "piñones" were the main staple food for the indigious Pehuenche people and they teached us how to harvest and prepare them. You can gather these starchy Araucaria "piñoes" between February and April.
Traditional Food
This is not a listing of all the standard trekking foods like pasta and cereals. If you attempt this long distance trail you should know all this by heart. This section lists and describes selected traditional food items that are typical for this region but may be less known outside or named differently.
Piñoes: As already mentioned under Recommended Season and Food Supply on the Trail you can become a gatherer on sections 6 to 10 and collect a good part of your food yourself along the trail. You just need to get the timing right and carry a strong string to harvest the mature cones of the female Araucaria trees. According to Wikipedia the name Araucana is derived from the native Araucanians who's main staple food were the nuts or seeds of the Araucaria tree. A group of Araucanians living in the Andes, the Pehuenches, owe their name to their diet based on harvesting of the Araucaria seeds. Pehuen means Araucaria and che means people in the native language Mapudungun.
The natives use a lasso to harvest the mature cones. As a hiker you probably will not carry a rather heavy lasso but you may bring a strong string with you. By trial and error we enventually choose to connect long sticks in example branches, bamboo grass and/or our hiking poles to lift a sling over a single cone and then break the cone off by pulling against the growth direction. Once you have the cone down you can open the cone with a wedge and a stone as shown on the picture above. The seeds then need to be separated and boiled for about 30 minutes with the husk. Once boiled the husk can be easily removed. Just squeeze the husk and the eatable seed will slip out easily. You can eat the seed like this or fry it later.
Harina Tostada (Chile) or ñaco (Argentina) is toasted ground wheat and the staple food of the herdsmen. It comes as a brownish powder and tasts like corn flakes but it needs to be mixed first with a liquid to eat. The most comon form is mixing with water but also beer, wine or juice can be used. Also sugar may be added if mixed with water. Depending on the mixing ratio it will be a thick paste or a liquid and makes a the perfect snack during the way. Try yourself and find out how you like it most. You can buy it in all rural stores but also the big super markets sell it. It's the perfect trekking food because its nourishing and takes little space in the backpack. See the wikipedia article for more information to this versatile staple food.
Tortilla de Rescoldo is a white bread that was backed in the hot ash of a fire. Most puestos don't have a proper oven to bake bread but use the accumulated ash of the fireplace instead. The dough is made as usual with wheat flour, salt and (dry) yeast. After the dough was prepared and given the typical rest the dough is gently put in a pit in the hot ash and then also covered with hot ash. After about 10 to 15 min the bread is turned and covered with hot ash again to bake it evenly on both sides. To not burn the bread the hot ash must be free of glowing charcoal. It requires quite some experience to get the temperature and the timing right. Also the fireplace must be in use for days or weeks to accumulate sufficent ash. A typical campfire will not work because the fire itself is to hot and amount of ash is insufficient.
To make fresh bread on the trail ourself we used our two stainless steel pots and the lid. With some selfmade wireclips we suspended the slightly smaller pot within the bigger pot. This created a small but fully functional oven because the air gap between both pots protected the content from burning when placed in or next to the fire. With this oven we did not only bake fresh bread but also pizza and a onion pie. It needs some trial and error to learn how to get the temperature right and regular turning help to bake the content evenly.
Sopapilla (Chile) or Torta Frita (Argentina) is fried white bread. The same standard dough made with wheat flour, salt and (dry) yeast and given the typical dough rest period of 15 to 30 minutes. Round flat dough-cakes are formed with a hole in the middle and gently put into a pot of hot oil of fat over a fire. The hole in the middle is required to move and removed the Sopapilla with a stick.
Chivo or Cordero al Palo: Puesteros occasinally butcher a male goat or sheep when they meet with other herdsmen or when they receive a visit to share an abounded and delicious meat feast. Female animals are normally preserved to maintain the flock (an rare example of male discrimination). The skinned and cleaned annimal is cut into pieces and stack on a wooden pole ("palo" in Spanish). The pole is then placed next to the fire and regularly turned until the meat is ready to eat. It's cruical that the meat is well cooked to kill all potential parasites. You need to be lucky to arrive just in time for such a feast. Alternatively you may ask the puestors along the route if they have some meet left or if they are willing to sell one annimal and butcher and prepare it with you. The smallest quantity for sale is typically half an annimal ("medio canal"). Once the meet is well cooked over the fire you can carry the left overs and consume it during the next two or three days.
Yerba Mata is a energizing coffein-rich hot trink. You fill about half a cup with the tee-like "yerba", pour hot water over it and trink it with a special straw that acts at the same as an filter. This staw is called "bombilla". You can pour again and again water over it to keep trinking. Sharing mate with other people is a common ritual in these region. You will certainly be offered this rather bitter drink when you meet and chat with the locals. See also the wikipedia article to Mate for more information.
Mote are wheat grains, that were boiled and removed from its husk and then tried again for long term storage. Mote is probably not a optimal trekking food because it needs to be soaked in water for several hours before boiling. But settlers and herdsmen often carry mote and use it as an incrediant for stews and other meals.
Recommended Equipment
Packraft
A packraft is a light-weight inflatable boat designed to be carried in the backpack when not needed but to carry the backpacker and his backpack over lakes and rivers when he needs it. A packraft is recommended for sections 11, 12, 13, 15 and 16.
Here you find some images of our packraft. We used the Explorer 42 from Alpackaraft. The total weight of the boat with paddles, waterproove bags and water gear was approx. 6 kg or 3 kg per person if shared.
The packraft made our trip much more diverse. It was so great to walk to the shore of a lake or river, take the backpack down, inflate the boat, store the gear, take a seat and row off.
At the two larger lakes you can alternatively take a daily ferry (Lago Pirihueco) or a private boat transfer (Lago Todos Los Santos). For all other lakes and rivers alternative trails, that circumvent the water are included in the GPS File for Trekking below. So you can bypass on food all water sections if you do not have a packraft or if wind and weather does not permit the crossing of a lake with a rather tiny boat.
GPS and Electronic Map
The trail is mostly unmarked, partly not visible and only smaller fractions are documented with maps. Therefore a GPS is essential for navigation. In addition an electronic topographical map is recommended.
We used a Garmin GPS with the Garmin TOPO Chile Deluxe electronic map. The topographical profile, rivers, lakes, road and towns are precisely mapped. Only smaller streams, smaller lagoons and some trails are partly incorrecly placed on the electronic map. Garmin now offers a electronic topographical map that covers all Chile, Argentina and Bolivia and with this all Patagonia. The price is just slightly higher price than Chile only. This map is probably the currently best choise for this trail and furture trail extensions to the south that will incorporate larger sections on Argentine soil.
Satellite Tracker
The Greater Patagonian Trail leads partly through rather isolated uninhabited areas with no mobile phone coverage at all. In case of an accident a satellite based emergency communication devise may contribute to your survival.
- SPOT offers a light weight emergency beacon that when pushing an emergency button submits a distress signal via satellite with your GPS position to a rescue centre. This devise can also be set up to regularly send the GPS position and display the track on the internet. We carried such a personal satellite tracker and our families and friends stayed much more relaxed because they could see us move day by day through the mountains. The limitation of this devise is, that is cannot receive any messages or send messages written on the trail. You find further information to this devise on the SPOT manufacturers homepage.
- InReach from Delorme offers a similar devise with all the above capabilities. But on top of it, it can send and receive 160-character SMS text messages with GPS coordinates to mobile phones or email addresses worldwide and post updates to social media. See the InReach manufacturers homepage for more information.
Solar Charger
The partly long stages and the limited supply along the trail requires a proper power management for the GPS, the camera and all other electronic gear. If you rely on the GPS for navigation you need to make sure to have in functional whenever needed.
We opted to carry a solar power panel to recharge all our batteries while hiking. Carrying regular batteries for up to 3 weeks would have meant a substantial extra weight. We choose the model Nomad 7 from GoalZero with the Guide 10 Power Pack.
Required Skills and Capabilities
The Greater Patagonian Trail requires endurance not only because of the total trail lenght but the rather long trail sections. The first three sections exceed 100 km each without regular resupply points on the route. If combining sections the distances become even larger and can reach or exceed 300 km.
Hiking this trail requires a detailed planning and preparation before and during the hike. The gear needs to be reduced to what is essential. Before each section the correct type and quantity of food needs to be selected and carried.
The isolation of some parts of the trail demand a self-reliant attitude and cautious behaviour. The hiker needs to feel confident and move safely in various terrains, that reach from snow covered mountains passes to dense tempered rain forests.
Sudden weather changes may happen anytime in this mountainous region. The hiker needs to be prepared and equipped to master in example an surprising snow storm and closing in clouds while cossing a mountain pass.
Good navigational skills are essential since the route is mostly unmarked. The hiker needs to recognize and follow the often only vaguely visible trails that frequently peter out or divide into different branches. Here the hiker needs follow his "sixth sense" while verifying and comparing the taken route with the recommended GPS tracks. Good knowledge in setting up and using a GPS is compulsory.
This trail should only be attempted with at least some Spanish knowledge and practice. You need to be able to introduce yourself, explain what you are doing, buy food and other supplies and organize your bus trips to and from the trail. Hardly anyone along the trail speaks or understands even a few words in English.
The following skills are NOT required:
- Rock climbing
- White water rafting
- Any super-man-capabilites
Dangers and Annoyances
Trail Condition
The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that is set up and managed by a government agency. Is simply a compilation of horse trails, minor roads and some cross country sections over private properties and state owned land. This means that large parts of the route are not monitored or maintained by public authorities. Most of the horse trails were created by local herdsman to drive animals to their pastures and other parts of the route are current or disused wood logging roads. Therefore the maintenance depends on the needs and initiative of these locals users.
Severe weather and volcanic eruptions can destroy or alter a route and if not maintained vegetation can completely close a trail within a few years in particular in the tempered rain forest. Therefore attention and good judgment are needed when hiking the Greater Patagonian Trail because some trail sections may become impassable or change. Check your GPS regularly but don’t follow blindly the GPS track.
In worst case you need to turn around and seek an alternative route. A GPS with sufficient backup power and a detailed electronic map is essential in such a situation.
River Crossings
River Crossings are possibly the greatest hazard on this route in particular if attempted during inappropriate times or at not suitable locations. Snowmelt or heavy rain can raise the water level substantially and make a rivers crossing impassable that during other times is easily forded. Also the bed of a river can change and a location that once was suitable for crossing can became too deep or rapid. Therefore do no rely on the GPS waypoint for river crossings but always judge the situation yourself before attempting to ford a river. You may seek an alternative location along the river or turn around and take an alternative route if a river crossing is hazardous.
Rivers should only be crossed with shoes and hiking poles for added stability. If hiking together cross the river in pairs with arms firmly joint together. If the ford is wide enough you may cross the river not perpendicular to the flow direction but inclined in the flow direction. Some even recommend to carry and use a rope for difficult river crossings.
Weather
Storms with heavy rain may arise on all parts of the trail anytime and in elevated areas heavy snowfall may occur even in midsummer. Therefore be always prepared and equipped for sudden weather changes.
In bad or instable weather do not climb a pass or venture into exposed terrain above the tree line. Rather wait or return and seek shelter if the weather changes in a concerning manner. Carry at least a poncho to protect yourself and your backpack if rain or snow closes in. In instable weather keep your eyes open and memorize potential protected camp sites and “Puestos” if you are forced to turn around to seek shelter. Selected suitable locations are documented with waypoints in the GPS file for trekking.
While hiking we were told about several incidents along the trail where local inhabitants and outside tourists got lost, disappeared without trace or froze to death in bad weather. Don’t add another story!
Sun
Don’t undermine the sun, in particular when crossing snow fields or large camps of bright volcanic ash. A proper head cover, sun cream and sun glasses are essential to prevent sun-burns and snow-blindness. Don’t just carry this stuff but use it preventively.
Isolation
Some parts of the Greater Patagonian Trail cross rather isolated areas. In some areas you can walk for days without seeing another human being. Therefore be prepared to help yourself in case of an accident. Always carry a sufficient first aid set.
If you are unable to continue it might take weeks or more for someone else to pass and mobile phone coverage is very limited along the trail. Therefore a satellite based emergency communication devise may contribute to your survival. SPOT offers a light weight emergency beacon that when pushing an emergency button submits a distress signal via satellite with your GPS position to a rescue centre. For further information see the recommended equipment.
Wild Animals
There are no bears in South America. This makes hiking more relaxed if compared with North America. You can cook at your tent and store all you food in your tent without fearing a visit of a hungry bear.
The largest living predator in Patagonia (apart from humans) is the Puma, also called Cougar or Mountain Lion. They normally hide and avoid contact with humans. Wikipedia states: “Attacks on humans are very rare, as cougar prey recognition is a learned behaviour and they do not generally recognize humans as prey. (…) As with many predators, a cougar may attack if cornered, if a fleeing human stimulates their instinct to chase, or if a person "plays dead". Standing still however may cause the cougar to consider a person easy prey. Exaggerating the threat to the animal through intense eye contact, loud but calm shouting, and any other action to appear larger and more menacing, may make the animal retreat. Fighting back with sticks and rocks, or even bare hands, is often effective in persuading an attacking cougar to disengage.”.
For more information see: Cougar attacks on humans on wikipedia.
Wild boar are other potentially dangerous animals. They were introduced by humans and became an invasive species. These omnivores range in particular the Araucania and love Araucaria "piñones". Wikipedia states: “Although wild boars do not generally pose a threat to people, they occasionally attack humans. (…) Male boars become most aggressive during the mating season and may charge at humans at such times. Occasionally, female boars will attack if they feel their piglets are threatened, especially if a human physically comes between them and their young. Although a majority of boar attack victims recover with medical treatment, fatalities do occasionally occur.”
For more information see: Wild boar aggression towards humans on wikipedia.
Domesticated Animals
Dogs: To be issued.
Cattle: To be issued.
Deseases
The most dangerous animal for humans in Patagonia is a quite small one: the long-tailed pygmy rice rat (Oligoryzomys longicaudatus) and the long-haired grass mouse (Abrothrix longipilis). These two species are known to carry and transmit a particular aggressive strain of Hantaviruses with a mortality rate of 30% to 40%.
The typical incubation time is 1 to 3 weeks but also cases with 3 to 45 days between the suspected exposure and the disease outbreak have been reported. Early symptoms are similar to a flu and include fatigue, fever and muscle aches. Other possible symptoms are headaches, dizziness, chills, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain. Seek medical attention if you experience such symptoms.
Wikipedia states: “There is no known antiviral treatment, but natural recovery from the virus is possible with supportive treatment. Patients with suspected hantavirus are usually admitted to the hospital and given oxygen and mechanical ventilation support to help them breathe during the acute pulmonary stage. As the virus can be transmitted by rodent saliva, excretia, and bites, control of rats and mice in areas frequented by humans is key for disease prevention.”
For more information see: Hantavirus on wikipedia.
The main source of infection are inhaled aerosols of mice droppings. Therefore the recommended preventive measures are:
- Avoid any contact with mice and mice dropping.
- Do no use any shelters that are not well ventilated or where you can see any traces of mice.
- Keep your food protect and away from mice in particular during the night. The same applies to your pots, dishes and waste to not attract mice.
- Camp in clean, open area that do not provide hideouts for mice. Avoid shrubbery.
- Use a tent with a closed floor and a fully concealed inner tent.
- Drink only secure water and disinfect or boil it if necessary.
- Do not eat wild fruits that may attract mice as well.
Insects
Horse-Flyes or Tabanos will form an annoying aerial escort on some parts of the trail. They are abundant in December and January in humid parts of the River- and Lake District. These rather noisy flyers get attracted by dark moving objects in bright sunlight. So avoid dark cloth and do not try to chase them off with rapid movements, otherwise your will attract the attention of more of them. They inflict painful bites but do not leave an itching stitch.
Creation of the Greater Patagonian Trail
Idea for the Trail
I did my first hike in Patagonia in 2002 and returned several times in the following years. As most casual hikers I used a trekking guide book (Lonely Planet: "Trekking in the Patagonian Andes") and ventured only onto trails described by books or printed on maps. It did not even appear to me to go beyond.
A few years later I was recommended the "Adventure Handbook Central Chile" from Franz Schubert and Malte Sieber. This booked introduced me to the often overlooked area between the Chilean capital Santiago and Patagonia. Before I always passed this area without seriously considering to stop before reaching Patagonia.
In 2011 we planned to do the hike to the Laguna las Truchas that is recommended in the Adventure Handbook. But before we set out we were told by locals that the landlord does not let pass any backpackers. The locals recommended a different trail instead for which we had no guide books, no maps and no guide willing to lead us. After long considerations we eventually took our backpacks and hiked on our own to the impressive Laguna Dial. We were surprised to walk on a well maintained trails where maps are simply blank. In the following months and years repeated this experience again and again: there are plenty of undocumented trails. I also noticed that these trails are often visible on Google Earth, which gave me a new tool to plan hikes.
Two years later in 2013 I was wondering how far you can possibly walk through the Andes. More out of curiosity I started searching for a continuous trail in Google Earth trying to incorporate the best trails hiked so far. In a lengthy tedious search using Google Earth and all other material avilable to me I planned on a constantly growing trail. I finally had a route that I estimated to be 1400 km.
Planning of the Trail
The Greater Patagonian trail is not an official trail that was planned and set up by a government agency. It’s better: it’s a compilation of the most beautiful and diverse hiking and horse trails, minor roads and cross country sections through the Patagonian Andes selected by a passionate hiker.
This genesis prevented that the routing of the trail was compromised and deformed by local interests and political constraints. The track could be chooses freely on either side of the border on the Chilean and the Argentine side of the Andes. There were also no “must-include” towns, villages or places because influential local politicians decided so. Simple the most attractive hikeable route could be selected, without any influence or other interests.
The route planning and trail selection conditions were:
- The trail leads through the heart of the Andes along the main mountain chain of the cordillera
- The most beautiful and diverse existing tracks are selected for this long distance trail
- Hiking paths and horse trails are preferred over roads with transit traffic even if this means a reasonable detour
- All included cross country sections are feasible for hiking without climbing gear or a machete
- The route is continious without any gaps
- The track can be hiked legally without unautorized border crossings
The trail was planned in 2013 by Jan Dudeck using:
- Goolge Earth satellite images
- By the author previously hike trails and horseback trips
- Hiking maps and guides that document and describe trails in some selected areas
- Geotagged Panoramio images displayed on Google Earth
- Internet trail exchange platforms in particular: wikiexplora.com, wikiloc.com and trekkingchile.com
First Hike of the Trail
On November 12, 2013 I started with my girlfriend Meylin Ubilla in Coñaripe at the start of section 10. We both had no previous long distance hiking experience and never used a packraft before.
During the hike we had a few moments of doubt because the route disappeared several times in impenetrable forest. But we always managed to find passable trail even if it meant returning a day’s hike. After about half the trail I became a bit concerned that we may run out of time before reaching our goal. But we kept going on steady pace without worrying too much.
On February 23, 2014 we finally arrived again in Coñaripe were we set out a 104 days before. Our GPS indicated roughly 1'600 km hiked and 50'000 m climbed. We actually walked on 80 days with the remaining time used to resupply, rest and to travel from the end of section 16 to the start of section 1.
The now published trail eliminates the seek detours and can hiked by any experienced hiker with sufficient endurance and the proper equipment.
Trail Name
While hiking the trail I have long thought how to name this trail. I was looking for a precise but well descriptive name.
The trail crosses various regions that are rather unknown outside of Chile and Argentina. Few people have ever heard about Maule or Bio-Bio and might associate whatever with these words but not an outstanding trekking region. Therefore naming the trail after the actual regions seamed not a good choice.
On the other side naming the trail after the Andes like "Andes Trail" would be a huge exaggeration because the trail spans only a smaller part of this 7000 km long mountain range.
Naming the trail after Patagonia like "Patagonian Trail" would be incorrect, because most of the trail is actually not located in Patagonia at least when applying the traditional limits of this region. Most of the trail is on the Chilean side where only the regions Aysén and Magallanes further south are traditionally considered part of Patagonia. See the map: "Traditional limits of Patagonia".
To be precise and well descriptive at the same time I decided to use the geographic term "Greater Patagonia" that includes Patagonia in its traditional limits and the surrounding area like "Greater London" includes the city of London and the surroundings. On the Argentine side Patagonia reaches much further north than on the Chilean side and has it's limit at the Río Colorado with its spring near the Laguna del Maule. This is the latitude where section 1 ends and section 2 starts. So "Greater Patagonia" applies very well to the entire trail region because all parts of the route are located not more then 100 km outside of the traditional limits of Patagonia.
The name "Greater Patagonian Trail" seams a good choise because:
- with more than 1300 km length it’s a greater trail than all other published trails in Patagonia,
- the trail is without doubt one of greater trails in repsect of beauty and diversity,
- the trail is located completely within "Greater Patagonia",
- the name remains correct while the trail gets extended further south and
- the name embraces the legend of Patagonia and may become a legend itself.
Publishing of the Trail
The trail was first published in 2014 on wikiexplora after completing the long distance hike. Also more than one thousend images were geotagged and uploaded to Panoramio for display on Google Earth with a reference to this wikiexplora trail description. The tracks are also uploaded to Wikiloc.
The trail was published without any commercial interests. The motives for publishing were:
- Share this trail with other interested hikers to promote this first long distance trail in South America and the Andes
- Attract contributors that perfect and extent this trail
- Promote hiking in the rather unknown parts of the trail to create an additional source of income for the humble people still living along the trail
- Protect and maintain this trail by making it well-known and more frequently used
Before publishing the trail I have long considered if publishing may have also negative consequences for the affected area. I personally do not see that this trail will become overun like in example "Torres del Paine". The trail is simply too long and demanding to attract large crowds. And even if a larger number of hikers seeks this challange they will be distribute over a rather long trail. The principle risk of publishing this trail is that this attracts irresponsible people that litter and don't have the necessary care when making camp fires. This may indeed cause severe damage and destruction. To promote a responsible behaviour I plead that all hikers respect the Code of Conduct of the trail.
On the other side I have seen plenty of evidence that settlers give up and retreat from this gorgeous but challenging highlands. But if the settlers that created these trails vacate their land then the trails will soon be overgrown, become invisible and destroyed by weather without being repaired and maintained. So by creating an addition source of income for these tough herdsmen and mountain farmers they will have one more reason to stay. And if they stay the trail will be maintained and remain accessible for hikers like you and me.
Future Development of the Trail
This trail is not finished yet. There is plenty of terrain left till this trail finally reaches the southern tip of Patagonia and ends either on the shores of the Magellan street or even on Tierra del Fuego. Also a few smaller sections need to verified and recorded and additional alternatives may be aggregated. Read the chapter Trail Verifications, Additional Options and Extensions to see how you can contribute to perfect and extent the Greater Patagonian Trail.
Code of Conduct
The trail leads mostly through unspoiled wilderness with little human intervention. And where you meet some settlers or herdsmen you are welcome and get treated as honourable guest. To maintain this I plead all hikers to follow this code of conduct:
- Leave no trace and in particular no litter. All packings that can be carried with content can be returned when empty.
- Make camp fires only where permitted and where and when it is safe to do so. Don't light a fire in dried out areas or when wind can carry sparks that may ignite nearby vegetation. Use only death wood and put the fire out with plenty of water. Don't leave the fire or go to sleep before having it put out completely.
- Don't abuse the hospitality of the people along the trail and pay fairly for what they share with you. Using a trail or camping in a not maintained place should be free of charge but if you get invited to a meal or use a camping ground that was installed by a local settler pay what you would get charged in other places. Don't ruin the hikers reputation by misusing the generosity of humble people. They might refuse to take your money but insist because they need it; it's part of the hospitality.
- Near a Puesto you find often a good camp spot because the grazing annimals create and maintain nice patches of pastry. If the puesto is inhabitated always introduce yourself and ask first for permission before pitching your tent. This also calms down the dogs.
- If you are caught by bad weather feel free to knock on doors and ask kindly for shelter. Helping is such situations is part of the ethics in the mountains.
- Don't enter locked Puestos except in emergencies. This is also for your safety since poorly ventilated and maintained puestos pose a Hanta virus infection risk. See also Deseases.
- Leave all gates in the condition as you found them. If a gate was closed, close it after you. If a gate was open, leave it open.
- If you meet people on horses on a narrow trail step to the side and let them pass. It's for your own safety.
- Respect the rights of the land owners. Don't dispute over rights of way but ask kindly for permission to pass.
Comment to KMZ File for Trekking
The KMZ file contains the geographic information of the trail and can be opened in Google Earth and uplodaded to most current GPS devices. See the wikipedia article for further information to this file format.
The KMZ file displayed on the satellite map above is optimized to provide a good overview but does not include waypoints and detailed information for hiking. Therefore the KMZ file below should be downloaded and used if you actually plan to hike a section or the entire Greater Patagonian Trail.
Greater Patagonian Trail with waypoints, options and alternatives: KMZ file (Update from 2014-Aug-06)
The file is organized in folders and subfolders for a better overview in particular when viewing and organizing the trail on a computer. There is one folder for each section and each section contains a subfolder for waypoints and a subfolder for tracks.
Waypoints
The waypoints are named with the item of interest at the waypoint. A alphanumeric code is added in brackets to be able to refer in the trail description to specific waypoints. The GPS normally displays the entire waypoint name with the code.
Example waypoint name: Start (GPT01-WP001)
- Start: Item of interest, in this case the start of section 1
- (GPT01-WP001): Alphanumeric code in brackets
- GPT: Greater Patagonian Trail
- 01: Section 1
- -WP: Waypoint
- 001: Running number
Used waypoint categories are:
| Item | Comment | Example Images |
|---|---|---|
| Border | Point where the trail crosses the actual border between Chile and Argentina. The border control is typically in a different location. The offical trail of section 10 trespasses briefly through Argentine territory. This seams to be tollerated. | Marked Border, Unmarked Border |
| Border Control | Location where the police performs the exit and entry control. If you plan to cross the border you need to actively seek the police at the border control. You will not be given an entry step without getting the exit stamp first. | Chilean Border Control, Argentine Border Control |
| Bridge | Pedestrian or vehicle bridge. May be in poor state. | Bridge, Bridge, Bridge, Bridge |
| Bus Stop | Marked or unmarked bus stop. In most places buses will stop at any location if you clearly signal the driver that want to take a ride. Ask locals for the bus frequency and times. | Bus Stop |
| Cable Car River Crossing | At larger rivers that cannot be crossed by food cable cars are ocasionally installed. Ask the locals how to operate them to cross the river. | Cable Car River Crossing |
| Camp | Location suitable for camping. If not stated otherwise the camp site can be used free of charge and water and fire wood is available nearby. Pay camp sites are marked with an "$". To camp sites without water or wood "w/o water" or "w/o wood" is added. In areas with plenty of suitable locations only the most inviting paces are marked. | Camp, Camp, Camp, Camp |
| Carabiñeros | Chilean local police. To control remote border area small partly improvised police posts are setup and manned during the summer. Whenever you pass such a police post report to them and explain your plans. We were always treated very nicely. | Carabiñeros, Carabiñeros |
| CONAF | Corporación Nacional Forestal manned post. Conaf is the governing body of all National parks of Chile, including those without forest or major vegetation. | CONAF park entrence |
| Diversion | Location where the trails splits or where attention is needed to no miss the correct trail. | Diversion |
| Ferry | Public ferry. | Ferry, Ferry, Ferry |
| Food | Location where you may get food or a meal. This may be a settlers home or a puesto. | Food, Food, Food |
| Gate | Gate that may be locked. We several times climbed over such gates. Leave the gate in the state you found if. If it the gate was open leave it open. If the gate was closed then close it again. | Closed Gate, Locked Gate, Locked Gate |
| Hot Spring | Geothermal hot spring. May be an unspoiled natural pool or a pool enclosed by a contruction. Hot springs that charge an entrence fee are marked with an "$". | Natural Hot Spring, Natural Hot Spring, Enclosed Hot Spring, Enclosed Hot Spring |
| Hotel | There are not many hotels along the trail so if you get there it's rare opportunity to pamper yourself. | Hotel |
| Lake | Fresh water lake. | Lake, Lake |
| Lodging | Accommodation of any type that is not a hotel. May be a simple room in a private house with a family (hospedaje familiar) or a bungalow (cabaña). | Lodging, Lodging |
| Mini Shop | Small shop or kiosk with a limited product range. If closed ask at the houses nearby for attention. | Mini Shop, Mini Shop |
| Pass | Mountain pass. The pass elevation is normally added. | Pass |
| Puesto | Improvised shelter or house in a remote area that is temporary used during the summer. If locked do not enter except in emergencies. If open you may use the shelter if needed with the appropriate respect. | Puesto, Puesto, Puesto, Puesto |
| Refuge | Shelter that is open for public use. | Refuge, Refuge |
| Restaurant | Restaurant. Expect a filling meal but not sophisticated cuisine. | Restaurant |
| River Crossing | River crossing without a bridge or a cable car. Water levels may change significant with snow melt, rain and daytime. If the river is feed by snowmelt water levels are normally lowest in the morning. Since rivers can change their bed look for the optimal spot where to cross and do not rely on the waypoint but your own judgment. River crossings are also locations where drinking water can be collected. | River Crossing on food, River Crossing on food, Easy River Crossing, River Crossing by horse |
| Sea | Access to the sea. | Sea |
| Settlement | Group of permanently inhabited houses. | Settlement |
| Settler | Single permanently inhabited house. Here you may ask for food or shelter in case of bad weather. | Settler, Settler |
| Shop | Shop with a wider product range. If closed ask at the houses nearby for attention. | Shop, Shop |
| Start | Starting point of a section. The start is at the finish of the previous section. Since this is not an official trail these starting points are not marked consitently and often not marked at all. | Start Signpost, Start in Town, Start at Bus Stop |
| Summit | Summit of a volcano along the trial that can be climbed on an optional side trip. | Summit, Summit |
| Trail Head | Location where a trail starts on a road. Attention is needed to no miss this trail. Some trail heads have a signpost, others not. | Trail Head |
| w/o Water | Camp or Puesto without drinking water nearby. If you plan to camp at such a location you should carry sufficient water for one night. | Puesto w/o Water |
| w/o Wood | Camp or Puesto without fire wood nearby. If you plan to camp at such a location you should either carry a camping stove or sufficient fire wood for one night. | Camp w/o Wood |
| Water | Location where you can get drinking water. The water may need to be filtered, boiled or chemically treated to be fit for drinking. | Water |
| $ | Camp or Hot Spring where you need to pay. | CONAF Camping |
| ? | Not verified waypoint. The unconfirmed waypoints are based on satellite images, maps or tales from locals. Whenever you can confirm or correct such a waypoint, you are welcome to send the waypoint with a comment to the author of this trail for update of the GPS File. | - |
Tracks
The track of each section is broken into smaller segments to differentiate between different trail types and to incorporate options and alternatives. Each section consists of up to 20 trail segments. Each track is name with a unique alphanumeric code.
Example track name: GPT01-TR006-1
- GPT: Greater Patagonian Trail
- 01: Section 1
- -TR: Track
- 006: Running number
- -1: Trail type, in this exmaple its a hiking trail or horse trail
A -X is added to the track name of optional side trails or alternative routes.
Example track name: GPT01-TR007-0-X
The -X at the end means that this is an optional side trip or alternative route. In this example its the optional climb to the summit of the volcano Descabezado Grande.
Used trail types are:
| Trail Type | Code | Comment | Example Images |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cross Country | 0 | Track that pases through open terrain without a visisble trail. | Cross Country (volcano), Cross Country (forest), Cross Country (snow), Cross Country (steep), Cross Country (rocks without technical climbing), Cross Country |
| Hiking or Horse Trail | 1 | Mostly visible trail on any terrain. | Horse Trail, Hiking Trail, Trail, Trail, Trail |
| Minor Dirt Road | 2 | No or light traffic only. Can also be an abandoned road or a private road that is not open for public use. | Dirt Road with Light Traffic, Minor Public Dirt Road, Minor Non-Public Dirt Road, Minor Private Road, Unused Road, Abandoned Road |
| Mayor Dirt Road | 3 | Public dirt roads with transit traffic. | Mayor Dirt Road |
| Paved Road | 4 | Only few shorter segments at the start or finish of a sections. | Paved Road |
| Lake (Packraft) | L | Alternative options available if not carrying a packraft. | Lake |
| River (Packraft) | R | Alternative options available if not carrying a packraft. | River |
| Sea (Packraft) | S | Alternative options available if not carrying a packraft. | Sea |
| Ferry | F | Alternative ferry over lakes if not carrying a packraft. | Ferry, Ferry, Ferry |
| To be verfied | ? | Remains to be hiked and recorded by GPS to update the trail file. Alternative option available if not in explorers mood. | - |
| Options and Alternatives | X | A "-X" is added to the track name for optional side trips or alternatives i.e. trails around lakes. | - |
Distances, Ascents, Descents and Walking Times
This trail description contains plenty of numbers for distances, altitudes, ascents, descents and even walking times. All these numbers are based on the "cleaned" GPS track without our occasional seek and search detours. Also all altitudes, ascents and descents are based on a digital map with a quite precise altitude profile.
These numbers are therefore also free of accumulated "GPS noise" and "barometric altimeter noise" that increase the measured distances, ascents and descents when recording the track by GPS while hiking. So, don't be surprised if your GPS will always indicate longer distances, more ascents and decents even if you stay on the trail. A deviation of 10% is typical.
The walking times provided here are estimated moving times without any breaks and rests. When evalutating our GPS records I was surprised that we did not move nearly one third of the time between leaving the camp in the morning and stopping again in the evening. It did not appear to us that we make such long breaks but the GPS record does not lie. So a walking time of 6 hours means more or less a 9 hour hiking day adding normal breaks for eating, taking pictures, verifying the route, chating with the locals on the trail or harvesting some piñones.
The estimated walking time is calculated purely based on distances, ascents and descents. I opted to use such a calculation because it removes the unnecessary seek and search detours and the factor of having a good day or a bad day. I developed and verified this calculation method based on all our GPS records and was surprised myself that such a simplified calculation provides quite reliable estimates. The calculated times correspond closely with our actual walking time. If applied to our actual GPS records the average deviation per day is 15 minutes and never more than 50 minutes.
The used calculation factors are:
- 12:23 minutes per km (corresponds with a 4.8 km/h walking speed on a level trail)
- Additional 11:26 minutes per 100 m ascent
- Additional 3:44 minutes per 100 m descent
These factors resulted in the smallest average deviation to our actual moving time recorded by GPS. I'm would not consider us as fast hikers therefore the Walking Times calculated with based on out hiking speed are rather conservative.
Profiles
The altitude profiles for each section were constructed keeping the same scale, as follows:
- Horizonatal axis: 1 km = 10 pixels
- Vertical axis: 1 km = 148.15 pixels, as a result of a constant range of 0 to 2700m in 400 pixels.
The profiles do not include side trips, and consider the use of a raft.
Trail Verifications, Additional Options and Extensions
Verifications
The KMZ File for Trekking above contains a few not verified tracks and waypoints because we did not hike all the options and alternatives. This unconfirmed tracks and waypoints are based on satellite images, maps or tales from locals and have a question mark “?” in the name. So you know on what tracks and waypoints you can rely on and where your explorer’s skills are needed. Tracks that need to be explored can also be recognized on unnatural straight lines over longer distances.
Whenever you walk such a not verified trial, you are welcome to record the trail by GPS and send the file with a comment to the author of this trail for update of the KMZ File.
Additional Options
If you know a better or simply an interesting alternative trail, that fits well into this Greater Patagonian Trail you are invited to be become co-author by sending your proposal with a GPS File to me. I will review it and incorporate it in the master file. This applies also to helpful new waypoints.
Extensions
This trail is not finished yet. There is plenty of terrain left till this trail finally reaches the southern tip of Patagonia and ends either on the shores of the Magellan street or even on Tierra del Fuego. So, if you hiked a section that extends this trail further south or that simply covers an area that is not included yet you are more than welcome to become a co-author by contributing your trail.
The trail should get you further south on a route that is worthwhile hiking. It should consist mainly of horse trails or minor dirt road with no or insignificant traffic. Walking i.e. long distances on the Careterra Austral seams not tempting to me. If I take the Careterra Austral, than I rather do it by bicycle.
The route should be passable without a machete, technical climbing or superman skills. Cross country through of an open landscape is great but I do not want to fight me tree by tree through dense tampered rainforest.
It does not matter at all if the trail is on the Argentine side or the Chilean side as long as it does not depend on clandestine border crossings. If you get catched in particular by the Chilean carabineros without a valid stamp you may get expelled and this makes not a nice finish of such a trip.
Section Descriptions
The section descriptions below provide supplementary information to all sections of the Greater Patagonian Trail and will be issued in the following months.
An experienced hiker in explorers mood with good Spanish knowledge and planning skills will be able to hike the entire Greater Patagonian Trail without these detailed descriptions by fully exploiting the information provided in the detailed KMZ file for trekking.
Section 1: Volcán Descabezado
- Duration: 6 to 8 days
- Distance: 103 km
- Ascent: 4970 meters ↑
- Descent: 4870 meters ↓
- Option 1: Climb to the summit of the volcano Descabezado Grande
- Duration: 1 to 2 days
- Distance: 16 km
- Ascent: 2030 meters ↑
- Descent: 2030 meters ↓
- Option 2: Explore two hidden lakes
- Duration: ½ to 1 day
The first stage of the Greater Patagonian Trail gets you right into a mind-blowing volcanic theatre. The landscape is transformed by numerous powerful eruptions of the volcano Descabezado Grande and it’s equally potent smaller brothers in the surrounding. During the last major outbreak in 1932 the Quizapu; a parasitic crater 6 km south of the main crater; vomited an estimated 25 cubic kilometer of lava and volcanic ash.
After leaving the forest you will step through endless fields of pumice, climb three passes and cross a 4 km wide lava river. The struggle is rewarded with amazing outlooks, deep blue lakes and lagoons that suddenly pop in a surreal scenery and two thermal springs. Here you can soak up heat during a freezing night while admiring a sky full of stars. You can even cook your meal on one of the hot steam vents.
As an option your may climb to the 3900 m high summit of the “Great Decapitated”; this is what Descabezado Grande means. It’s a demanding long but technically uncomplicated ascent.
You can also explore two hidden lagoons; one that fills an ancient crater and a second one that was dammed up by another
smaller volcano. Both lakes are not far of the trail near a scenic camp site.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 1 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
And here you can read the detailed trail section description on wikiexplora: Section 1: Volcán Descabezado
El Bolsón
Leaving El Bolsón
Laguna Las Ánimas
Pass 2560 m
Approaching Laguna Mondaca
Laguna Mondaca
Bypasses Laguna Mondaca
Termas de Azufre
Leaving the Base Camp Descabezado Grande
Hot springs at Base Camp Descabezado Grande
Camp near Laguna Los Hornitos
Laguna Los Hornitos
Laguna Los Hornitos
Section 2: Laguna Dial
- Duration: 7 to 10 days
- Distance: 144 km
- Ascent: 5390 meters ↑
- Descent: 5430 meters ↓
The second section of the Greater Patagonian Trail leads in four to fife hiking days through the wide open valley Melado to the crystal clear Laguna Dial. This lake was formed by a volcanic eruption that plugged the upper valley and transformed this part of the river into a long lake.
With the melting snow in spring and early summer heardsmen migrate up the valley with their animals. Occasional lush green pastries changes with vegetation that struggles with the try soil. But the now visible life and the accompanying river Melado make a refreshing change after having crossed the death beauty of volcanic ash and lava in the week before on section 1. Don’t miss the puesto of Señora Irma, where you can eat fresh goat cheese with bread that was recently baked in the hot ash of a fire.
After having passed the deep blue Laguna Dial you descent through the now tighter but equally scenic valleys of the rivers Rió Rodriguez and Los Souces to the small settlement Pichi Rincon and a place called El Ingles. Here you can take a bus to the small town San Fabian to take a rest and to resupply.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 2 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
|Laguna Dial
|Laguna Dial
Laguna Dial
Section 2-3: Alternative Long Distance Challenge via Las Truchas
- Duration: 14 to 21 days
- Distance: 279 km
- Ascent: 12710 meters ↑
- Descent: 12100 meters ↓
If you are near the finish of section 2 and your backpack is still filled with plenty of food and you are ready for the ultimate endurance challenge than you can leave the regular trail in the lower part of the valley Rodriguez and climb up the steep valley Las Tragedias: “the tragedies”. This optional trail section bypasses the settlement Pichi Rincon and the road to San Fabian via the scenic lake Las Truchas and the pristine river valley with the same name. Don't miss to take a dip in the refreshing water of the the lake or the Río Las Truchas or one of the contributary side streams! You will re-joins the regular trail in the small settlement El Roble without the possibility to resupply until the end of section 3 at the Laguna Las Lajas. There are few trail where you can walk such a long distance through a nearly untouched wilderness. If you combine secion 2 and 3 with this alternative trail you will walk for 2 to 3 weeks without passing a village or a public road.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 2-3 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 3: Volcán Chillán
- Duration: 7 to 10 days
- Distance: 129 km
- Ascent: 6420 meters ↑
- Descent: 5820 meters ↓
The thrid section of the Greater Patagonian Trail leads you first through the forest and pastries along the rivers Río Los Souces, Río Roble and Río Ñuble. Occasional farm houses show you till what point settlers have advanced but some abandoned buildings remind you that these settlers are retreating again. Making a living all year around in such a place is a challenge, that becomes invisible when passing on a charming summer day.
Eventually you will reach a first pass that opens your view to the volcano Chillan who has a notorious poor sleep. Lava streams and ash become your trail again. After having crossed the slope of the volcano you decent in the “Valle Termal” where you can taste the heat that constantly leaks out. Dive in the hot stream and relax in steaming water while watching the stars during a frezzing night. The trail continues though untouched forest, goes up and down, crosses streams and get you once more to hot springs, but this time nicely enclosed and with a well build refuge next to it: the hot springs “Los Peucos”.
The final highlight of this trail section is the Laguna de Las Lajas that like the Laguna Dial was created by a volcano. The Laguna de Las Lajas is just one or two sizes bigger and was formed when the perfect cone shaped volcano Antuco had a series of powerful erruptions and plugged the drain of the valley. It is not possible to hike on the shore of the lake all the way to the section finish because steep rocky terrain blocks the path. So you need to climb the ridge on the western side of the lake. Depending on the weather and your explorers mood you can continue on the ridge to the trail section end or take the “bad weather escape route” down into the valley Polcura on the other side of the ridge.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 3 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 4: Volcán Antuco
- Duration: 3 to 5 days
- Distance: 57 km
- Ascent: 1380 meters ↑
- Descent: 1770 meters ↓
The fourth section of the Greater Patagonian Trail sets out on the base of volcano Antuco; a nearly perfect cone build with pitch black volcanic rocks and boulders. You can optionally climb this summit before continuing on the regular route. It’s a demanding long ascent over rather loose piles of sharp volcanic rocks that make the returning descent even more tiresome. But if the weather favours you, you get rewarded with an outlook that reaches north to the volcano Chillan and south to the volcano Copahue; a total distance that takes about 10 days to hike.
The regular trail takes the road to Argentine through vast fields of black volcanic ash in between the Laguna de Las Lajas and the volcano Antuco. On May 18, 2005 this road became the tragic scene of the worst peacetime military disaster in recent Chilean history. An overeager commander ordered about 400 poorly equipped conscripts to march this road despite a starting snow storm. 45 soldiers got disoriented and paralyze by the fierce snow storm and froze to death on the side of the road. Take it as an advise to always carry protective cloth and rather seek shelter if the weather turns against you. This trail is published for prudent hikers and not for wannabe heros.
After passing the ill-fated military post and the border control you need to leave the road before crossing into Argentina at the "Piedra del Indio" and turn south to enter the territory of the Pehuenche people. The "Piedra del Indio" or "Rock of the Indios" received its name because two Indio families where surprised by a similar fiece snow storm and wipped out all together. A wide open valley leads you towards the first Araucaria trees that also mark the initial of the tribal land. Indigenous herdsman have set up their “Puestos” to look after their animals on the summer pastries. Centuries of disrespect, deceit and displacement by colonists have made this people withdrawn and sceptical compared to the settlers and “Puesteros” that you meet before. But if you approach them with respect and in a humble attitude you may get invited into their huts and listen to them speaking their native language Mapuche.
After crossing a saddle and descending into the Valley Queuco you finally reach the Pehuenche settlement Trapa Trapa. If you ask around and you are lucky you may stay for a night with one of the families.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 4 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 5: Laguna El Barco
- Duration: 2 to 4 days
- Distance: 43 km
- Ascent: 1490 meters ↑
- Descent: 1500 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 5 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 6: Guallali
- Duration: 3 to 4 days
- Distance: 50 km
- Ascent: 2530 meters ↑
- Descent: 2270 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 6 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 7: Laguna Marinanqui
- Duration: 5 to 7 days
- Distance: 82 km
- Ascent: 2870 meters ↑
- Descent: 3030 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 7 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 8: Laguna Icalma and Volcán Sollipulli
- Duration: 5 to 7 days
- Distance: 96 km
- Ascent: 2600 meters ↑
- Descent: 2800 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 8 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 9: Curarrehue
- Duration: 3 to 5 days
- Distance: 70 km
- Ascent: 1860 meters ↑
- Descent: 1680 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 9 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 10: Volcán Quetrupillan
- Duration: 3 to 5 days
- Distance: 59 km
- Ascent: 2080 meters ↑
- Descent: 2870 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 10 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 11: Neltume
- Duration: 3 to 4 days
- Distance: 57 km
- Ascent: 950 meters ↑
- Descent: 570 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 11 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 12: Lago Pirihueico
- Duration: 4 to 6 days
- Distance: 86 km
- Ascent: 2210 meters ↑
- Descent: 2720 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 12 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 10-12: Alternative via Liquiñe
- Duration: x to x days
- Distance: x km
- Ascent: x meters ↑
- Descent: x meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Section 13: Volcán Puyehue
- Duration: 4 to 6 days
- Distance: 70 km
- Ascent: 2980 meters ↑
- Descent: 2700 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 13 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 14: Volcán Antillanca
- Duration: 3 to 4 days
- Distance: 39 km
- Ascent: 1800 meters ↑
- Descent: 2040 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 14 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 15: Lago Todos Los Santos
- Duration: 4 to 6 days
- Distance: 83 km
- Ascent: 2100 meters ↑
- Descent: 2190 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 15 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Section 16: Cochamó
- Duration: 7 to 10 days
- Distance: 145 km
- Ascent: 4850 meters ↑
- Descent: 4690 meters ↓
Summary to be issued.
Here you can see plenty of images of section 16 of the Greater Patagonian Trail that are uplodaded to Panoramio and Google Earth.
Other Trail in Chile
Revisa la lista completa de 554 rutas de trekking y las 344 rutas de montaña en Chile
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