Diferencia entre revisiones de «GPT20 (Volcan Antillanca)»
(→Season 2023/24) |
(→Season 2023/24) |
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Línea 156: | Línea 156: | ||
Km39.85 : trail junction, sobo go right, nobo go straight. | Km39.85 : trail junction, sobo go right, nobo go straight. | ||
− | Ford[40.3/128] : crossing of Rio Gaviotas, a wide crossing. North shore is deeper than south side, up to knee and flowing slow, also there are some stable big rocks underwater you can step on. Easy crossing. Water looks clear and lot of fish inside. | + | Ford[40.3/128] : crossing of Rio Gaviotas, a wide crossing. North shore is deeper than south side, up to knee and flowing slow, also there are some stable big rocks underwater you can step on. Easy crossing. Water looks clear and lot of fish inside, better collect water at here, the water condition in lake is not too good. |
After the crossing, i didn't follow GPX track and walking on the beach. | After the crossing, i didn't follow GPX track and walking on the beach. |
Revisión del 17:16 31 ene 2024
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
* Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias
Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.
Add a sub-chapter by placing two "=" before and after the new sub-chapter heading ('==Sub-Chapter Heading==').
Contenido
Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions
Season 2025/26
Season 2024/25
Season 2023/24
- 2024-Jan-29 to 2024-Jan-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Lilian
If for comparison, the overgrown trail(RR, the trail at west side) goes down to Lago Rupanco, the difficulty just same as the overgrown part of GPT18.
GPT20's main difficulty is finding the trail in blowdown area. GPT18's is overgrown condition and the blocking by bamboo. So GPT20 is a little more technical, because finding the way to go.
And i recommend if you go in this overgrown part, sobo is better, because going down, you stand on a high position, is much easier and more possibilities to find a better and "correct" way. When i was walking inside, sometimes i turn back and look, i find that it is hard to know what's the trail going and what is the whole area's condition and happening.
Then I think CONAF already give up the road to strawberry lake, some small trees on the road(not beside the road), is growth up to 3-6m already.
{20-A} is not walkable now, because the bridge at bridge, camp[3.9/465] is completely broken. Better take RR road walking on PR then right turn to join dirt road.
RR km3.05 : friendly locked gate, climb over it easily.
The road at here is an old road, but it is still using by CONAF, i saw car tracks on the road, also some grass pressed by cars wheels not too long time ago. Mostly it is grassy in the middle of the road, also beside the road, two track are empty and easy to walk on.
Bridge, camp[3.9/465] , no trail to here, need to step through some long grass. Bridge is broken and impossible to cross the river, it is flowing very strong and at least up to chest. But you can crawl under the broken bridge to reach the river for collecting water, it is crystal clear and cold. It is the last water spot until km .
Camp[8.0/576] : no more refuge, just left a fire ring and picnic table here. Surrounded by lot of long grass, you can camp here, if you take some time to clear out the grass, looks like can fit 1-2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue at here. But i think your tent will be wet completely in the morning. Also CONAF vehicles returns and go back at here(reverse turning trace on grass).
Km10.4 : huge blowdown, go around it at left side, road conditions changing point, road become much overgrown and some more small blowdowns. Roads changing to single track trail. No more cars running after here. Still easy to walk and easy to follow.
Km13.6 : another huge blowdown, road conditions changing point, go around it at right side, then GAME STARTS, much much overgrown with spike leafs plants and they covers the trail blocks your walking, also lot of huge blowdowns need to climb over and jump down. You know the way to go, but much slower. Ok to walk, ok to follow. If compares with the overgrown part of GPT18, it is easier here but much tired because many blowdowns up and down, up and down, up and down.
Km14.2 : join an old road, condition is the same, just from trail becomes old road.
Km14.6-14.7 : some flat spots for camping, a wooden tripod made by some people at km14.7, maybe for cooking? Road conditions become better.
Km15.6 : camping spot can fit 2-4 tents.
Km16.2 : road conditions become much better, easy to walk, easy to follow. It is flat and wide, also good for camping too.
X[17.1/1252] : junction of RR and strawberry lake, i didn't go to find strawberry but the road to lake is in a very good condition, i can fancy i hitch to there in 5 min(of course not). No more road on RR, just trail, and the trailhead is beside a wooden board that pitch on tree at here.
{20-01} 150m : camping spot(-40.75515, -72.07800), i climb up a little for views then find this spot, can fit 2-4 tents with a fire pit.
Km17.1-17.55 : trail going down to meadow. Very overgrown trail, it is difficult for NOBO to climb up, because all the plants growing towards down side at here.
Km17.55 : a super beautiful meadow, good camping spot but no water.
Km17.65-18.0 : not overgrown but blowdowns trail. Above treeline at 1260m.
CC to the junction of RR and {20-D}, then CC on RR go around Volcán Antillanca. If you looks at valley side (NW), a trail there.
Trail starts at(-40.76299, -72.10617), not on GPX track. And it mostly stay at the same attitude going to the small pass(-40.75915, -72.12489) at km22.
It is a step trace "trail", narrow just about 1-1.5 steps wide, loose sandy, steep, but walkable, recommend going here only on good weather also after eating and your business, there is no spot to take a break until km22.
No more trail 150m before the pass, so CC climb up to the pass.
After the pass, i didn't follow GPX track, go down to the valley on my way, (-40.75959, -72.12913) -> (-40.76027, -72.13294), then cut back to CC and climbing up. There is a huge flat area that you can camp at the valley with nice views of Volcán Puyehue, but no water.
If you follow CC, mostly you'll face a super huge gap at (-40.76178, -72.13861), that you need to go down and go around. So when i was at (-40.76151, -72.13766), i decided straight climbing up 100m at the east side of gap, and there is a connection at (-40.76462, -72.13876) 1450m, you can easily crossing to other side.
Because i'm lack of water, so mostly i going much west than the GPX track, luckily i find some water spots by snow melts.
(-40.77309, -72.14007) : flowing good by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.
(-40.77531, -72.14089) : pond, by a huge snow patch melts, you can dip bottles to collect some amazing water!
Then i just CC to the pass(-40.78259, -72.14395) at km25.85. Snows begins at 1600m, no difficulty to climb up, mostly just gentle snow slope.
(-40.78306, -72.14374) : two beautiful ponds by snow melts at the pass with clear water. I think they'll not stay too long. Also i hear water flowing here, but it is close to dark, so i didn't have enough time to find out where it is and their condition.
There is not much snow left at south side of the pass. Also too steep, so better going down by the dry loose sandy slope at first, then join snow slope again for skiing down.
Lastly i cleared a small flat spot and camped at(-40.78742, -72.14541), can fit 1 tent, some rocks around here can used for holding the tents on sandy ground. No wind protection but amazing views(and flowing water as now) at here too!
Snow ends at (-40.78785, -72.14522) RR km26.5, 1500m. Also a small stream there, flowing good with clear, fresh and cold water! Some tiny waterfall, easy to collect.
From here to the km30.3, the junction of RR and {20-03A}, mostly CC on lava fields covered by grass, sometimes have cairns, but they are too small, also lot of other lava rocks nearby, so every time i notice them already in a very close distance.
Blue pole(-40.79524, -72.18397) and a trail leads to valley.
Flat spot at (-40.79622, -72.18337), can fit 2 tents before the overgrown section.
At km30.4, overgrown section start, trail is easy to walk, easy to follow. You'll find some blue ribbon(mostly already collapsed on the ground), and red ribbon(just a few) in this section.
Km30.8 : hell of bamboo, hell is not for hikers, is for bamboo. Most of of the bamboo is dead, defeated by huge trees in the war of forest. After here, a little overgrown and some blowdowns, still easy to follow, easy to walk. If you find the trail is blocked by lot of brushes, you can go around them by stepping on the bamboo, at here, bamboo helps you.
Km31.4 : if you don't find the trail after crawling under a huge blowdown, you can walking on the huge blowdown at (-40.80555, -72.17855) to west, then rejoin a clear trail at (-40.80564, -72.17840).
Km31.8 : after the sharp turning, trail become more overgrown, but trail still there. Ok to walk, easy to follow.
Km32.5 : camping spot(-40.81356, -72.17860), beside the trail, can fit 2-3 small tents with a small log seat. Some nice hikers put a silver shiny stake there for marker. After here, trail becomes much overgrown with spike leaves plant, because here is not in the forest, no big trees covering, bushes have more sunshine for growing bigger (then block the trail). Ok to walk, ok to follow.
Water[33.2/852] : can hear water flowing at valley side, looks like need BB about 10min to the stream. I find another better spot at not far away.
Km33.25 : trail is much closer to the stream at here, so i cleared a side trail(-40.81849, -72.17287) to there. Just 1 min, flowing good with clear water, have some puddles that can dip bottles. Some more type of spike plants start growing after here.
Km33.9-34.9 : although there are still some overgrown and blowdowns, but this part becomes very smooth, keep going and going, speed up, enjoy this moment.
Km34.9 : GAME STARTS, blowdowns MAZE. Huge amounts of blowdowns blocked your way, even there have some detour or go around, new blowdowns blocks it again. So you need to find the correct trail to go, mostly is the clearest one(do you see i said "mostly"?)
Because I don't have the habit of using GPS while walking, so after i keep going and going, i found I'm on the west of GPX track, following a looks clear trail walking parallel to GPX.
If you also don't follow GPX track walking, maybe the following will help you. (I don't know GPX or my "trail" which is better, and i assume GPX is the correct one)
At (-40.83961, -72.16451), the area of GPX looks like blocked by huge amount of blowdowns, and no ways to get in or get through that area. If follow the clear "trail" going, looks like it will block by another groups of blowdowns, maybe can crawl under a tunnel?
Yes! The answer is tunnel, but not crawling under it, the trail entrance (-40.83977, -72.16443) is just beside the tunnel, at right side, in a dark area hard to notice. You can walk on it.
Then you'll on GPX track again for a while.
At (-40.84042, -72.16400), looks like no way to go, look at the valley side(right) , trail is on the sandy slope.
Then i didn't find a good way to go after sandy slope, looks like GPX drops into the stream. But i don't think walking in a stream is a good idea, so i decided climbing up to east and try to find some good place, can keep going to south.
Luckily i found a clear trail at (-40.84047, -72.16384), of course still overgrown and blowdowns, but it leads me all the way to south.
Km36.5 : a pond just beside the trail, because the trail at here is very smooth, i nearly step in the pond carelessly. Looks like you can collect water at north shore, but water looks so so.
X[36.6/419] : junction of RR and {20-02}, lot of blue ribbon at trailhead of {20-02}, does it means anything? Thorn vine starts at here to south. But i cleared all the vine that blocked the trail until km39.55. Some overgrown and some blowdowns, but easy to walk, easy to follow.
Km39.35 : trail junction, sobo go straight, nobo go left.
Km39.55 : trail comes to a tiny grassland, if you follow the clear trail going, it is NOT RR, and going west, I don't know where is it's final destination. For RR, when you come to grassland, turn left immediately, entrance(-40.86662, -72.17480) of RR is hide behind some bushes, and the trail after here becomes overgrown and narrow again, also huge amount of thorn vine...i took some time try to clear, but there are too many, so i just cleared most of them, if you walk here, be careful.
Km39.85 : trail junction, sobo go right, nobo go straight.
Ford[40.3/128] : crossing of Rio Gaviotas, a wide crossing. North shore is deeper than south side, up to knee and flowing slow, also there are some stable big rocks underwater you can step on. Easy crossing. Water looks clear and lot of fish inside, better collect water at here, the water condition in lake is not too good.
After the crossing, i didn't follow GPX track and walking on the beach.
Camping spot (-40.87321, -72.18179) on a sandy ground, with nice views of lake and fire pit.
I asked some people at Las Gaviotas, about the ferry to El Poncho, some said 12noon, some said 1pm, some said 2pm, but there is nothing until 3pm i completely give up. I spend 4 hours and wait nothing in a super nice weather day, OMG.
Luckily i find a very tiny shop selling some food, biscuits, eggs, bread, pasta, canned food, drinks, ice cream at (-40.88061, -72.17970). I don't want to go to El Poncho resupply anymore. The shop open at 3.30pm, super friendly, i love them!
Lastly a small ferry arrived here at 4.30pm after i cooked and enjoyed my food from the shop... the ferry's name is Gavoita.
Season 2022/23
- 2023-Jan-29 / 3 days / hiking / RR / NOBO / Frank
The river at Las Gaviotas was easily fordable in late January, knee deep at the ford. Below the ford it runs deep into the lake. RR NOBO from Las Gaviotas remains very overgrown, machete highly recommended. I also used gardening gloves which help to grasp & break thorny plants. Many fallen trees, it gets better as you go up but is still slow going. Took me 9 hours to get to the treeline from Las Gaviotas ferry. The alternative route is likely to be a lot worse. There was still a lot of snow on Pass 1910 metres. I tried a few options but couldn't find a way over. The rock gendarme above the pass is not climbable - I tried, it starts as a scramble but goes up to a pinnacle. Ripped my pack on the sharp volcanic rock. I retreated & went around below the pass on OH-CC-A@20-A-001. It's a bit longer but fairly easy, there is a faint trail. Conaf are working on reopening the trail to Pampa Frutilla. It's open for 12KM SOBO from Conaf Anticura, easy walking & super fast. Then for 4KM it's overgrown but passable with moderate bush bashing & you are soon above treeline on RR. I didn't go to Strawberry Fields but suspect the route will be severe until Conaf cut it back. The slowness of the route means water becomes a serious issue. I was lucky to find one water source at 1600 metres from snowmelt (dirty with sand & needs to be filtered) but it's not reliable. There is water at bridge/camp 2.5KM after Conaf Anticura & then no permanent source until you are a few hours below treeline going down to Las Gaviotas. So carry a lot or consider splitting the trail in two with entry/exit at Antillanca ski station.
Season 2021/22
- 2021-Dec-02 / hiking / NOBO / Alex Abramov
We walked from Crater Raihuen (Ski Center Antillanca) to Anticura in one day. There was not much snow, but we faced the problem of bypassing the rocky gendarme on the ridge along the frozen snow slope. In running shoes, it looked unsafe given the steepness and length (over 300m) of the slope. So we decided to go around the ridge along the north side (similar to the GPT20 variant D). It is a simple, fast (about 2 hours) and logical route, accessible in any weather and in any condition. We found the trail between Pampa Frutilla and Antikura in ok condition: some easy bushwhacking and a dozen sections with fallen trees. It may feel harder with a heavy load. No water between Ski Center Antillanca and almost finish! We did not go to Pampa Frutilla Lakes
Season 2020/21
Season 2019/20
- 2020-Feb-22 / 2 days / RR SOBO and optional route to Antillanca / Martina & Ivo
Yes, we gave us that overgrown shit and we cannot believe Martin did that both ways! At least we could skip the first 3 km of the overgrown trail by starting on the Ruta International towards Argentina for 2.9 km and then turning right onto a former minor road which meets the regular route after 800 meters. We spent the night (and a day off due to exhaustion) at Pampa Frutillar, which is a 7.4 km detour to strawberry paradise and two pretty lagunas (optional route 19-05-#001). The ascent to the summit and the view from there were the most spectacular ones so far! Still a bit snow left, but no problem. As Matus said "hell starts" on the last 4 km before Las Gaviotas and we thought we already had our personal hell on the first 14 km, we decided to end this section in Antillanca, where we found accommodation. From here you need to walk or to hitchhike to Aguas Calientes for busses to Osorno.
- 2020-FEB-13 / hiking / Optional Start @ Antillanca / Tyler Wood
I opted to skip the first 13 km bush bashing noted by martin and hitched up to Antillanca with good luck. From there I slept in the crater at the base of Casa Blanca and summited the next morning. The same day went all the way down to the end of the section via the RR. Huge day, but definitely do-able with the optional start. As far as the bush bashing, it’s all good until near the end of RR-TL-V@20-27.1+6.3. Yeah, then it really tricky. Expect at least 2-3 hours to get through the thousands of downed trees. The madness continues pretty much all the way to the bottom. We camped on the beach and it was super beautiful. I decided to skip section 21 due to the $100 ferry across todo santos. A ferry leaves Las Gaviotas around noon to El Poncho for just 250 pesos. Ask locals for exact time for the ferry. From el poncho a bus comes (times with the ferry) that runs directly to Osorno. I got off at an intersection where I could hitchhike to Cochamo. (Huge hitch).
- 2020-JAN-01 - 2020-JAN-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2 from the ski station to the Volcanoe, RR from the volcanoe to waypoint Div133,Option 1 down to Lago Rupanco / Linda
Beacuse the pass of the Volcan is now impossible (view Martin feedback), I decided to hike only the southern part of this section = starting from Aguas Calientes (Buses all day long from Mercado of Osorno directly to Agua Calientes, which is a good spot to rest with a camping) to the ski station and then to Lago Rupanco :
1st part = Option 2 from the ski station to the Volcanoe
2nd part = Regular route from the volcanoe to waypoint Div133
3rd part = Option 1 down to Lago Rupanco
The 2 first parts are simply amazing = the view both on Volcanoe Casablanca and the valley where lies Lago Rupanco
BUT I won't recommend the 3rd part which is indicated on the GPS as overgrown. And it was crazily overgrown!!! I did it without a machete and it took me about 7 hours to come across 2km of very very wild forest, full of flourishing bamboos, that is very strong. As there is no track, I had to stick very closely to my compass (South / South West) to be able to join the end of the regular hiking track (that leads to the Lago Rupanco) which was also full of huge dead trees!!!!
I don't know how overgrown is the Regular Hiking route through this same forest. But be prepared to something very very tough.
- 2019-DEC-19 - 2019-DEC-20 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Martín Lizondo /
The trail from Conaf is extremely overgrown, even after the first bridge. There’s no minor road anymore. Guards offer you a “machete” to clean the path. Expect super ultra slow hiking (2 km p/h) the first 12 km. From then, as the trail reaches higher altitude, it becomes very easy to walk.
- 2019-NOV-09 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik
The river crossing directly north of Las Gaviotas is difficult right now. It is highly recommended to organise a boat which takes you over the lake. (It is just a short distance and won't cost much.)
- Comment Jan Dudeck: Arranging this boat transfer northbound is probably easier than southbound (there are several settlers south of the river but not north of the river). So hiking section GPT20 southbound might not be feasible right now.
At this date, the pass to Rupanco is all covered by snow, impossible to cross with regular gear, due to the snow fall the last few days. The optional route to avoid snow is also impassae. Pro: views are very nice. I had to return to Anticura and hitchike back to Entre Lagos.
Season 2018/19
Season 2017/18
- Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:
A small road leads past the CONAF building and winds through several Cabañas until reaching a trail. This trail, although fairly obvious and easily followed, becomes more overgrown as it travels deeper into a bamboo forest. The density of obstructions (foliage, fallen logs, etc.) makes hiking slow. Around 1.100 m, the forest begins to open up and there are several small campsites. At treeline, the trail widens into a old gravel roadbed. Be careful not to miss the turnoff onto a small trail to the right that dips back into the trees, as the regular route does not follow this roadbed for long. At the bottom of the descent, the trail crosses a meadow and climbs back up to treeline. The trail on Volcán Casablanca is not obvious, but there are several stone cairns (and the occasional bamboo pole) sparsely spaced along the path. Alternate Route: After descending from the Volcano, we decided to hike along the mapped trail located to the east of the GPS route. We quickly discovered the trail was wiped out by a landslide, and involved a steep descent to a faint track. The track winds through some open forest and joins a large black river bed. At the end of the open river bed, reenter the trees and follow a fairly obvious but overgrown path. Camping is very difficult to find until rejoining the regular route. I would seriously recommend sticking to the regular route as shown by the GPS track; this alternate was slow going and painful.
Season 2016/17
Resupply and Accommodation
Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns
- Shopping: Food
4 big supermarkets in Osorno all near the bus terminals Puerto Octay has a limited selection for resupply, but there are several restaurants and a good quesería.
- Shopping: Fuel
In Portal Osorno shopping centre Doite shop has camping gas screwgate canisters.
- Accommodation: Camping
El Encuentro campsite with cabanas just behind the beach at Las Gaviotas, camping is 10,000 pesos. Run by Marcelo who is friendly & helpful. He has a boat so might be able to take you across the river NOBO for a small fee. About 3KM beyond Puerto Buey on the road out is Entre Rios camping, cabanas & small shop, basic camping for 5000 pesos, tap water but no shower or toilet
- Puerto Octay has a limited selection for resupply, but there are several restaurants and a good quesería.
Resupply and Accommodation along the Route
Transport to and from Route
Access to Route and Return
- 2020/ Tyler Wood
A ferry leaves Las Gaviotas around noon to El Poncho for just 250 pesos.
- On Monday, Wednesday & Friday a bus goes to Puerto Poncho from Osorno main terminal at 12:30 & connects to the ferry, getting you to Las Gaviotas at 16:30.
- Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Poncho :
Monday 7:00 & 16:30 / Wednesday 2:30 PM / Friday 7:00 & 16:30 / Sunday 15:00 Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus.
- Ferry Puerto Poncho-Las Gaviotas:
Monday 8:00 & 15:30 / Wednesday 15:30 / Friday 8:00 & 15:30 / Sunday 16:00 No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
- Comment by Jan Dudeck:
There is a local who lives in the house on the lake shore northwest from the mouth of the river whom may offer passage on his personal row boat for payment. You may see his boat tied to a tree near the lake. Town: Puerto Octay to Osorno/Puerto Varas/Puerto Montt There is a boat ferry that picks passengers up at Las Gaviotas, which is the beginning of GPT21, and travels to Puerto Buey. It is about a 50 minute ride and 200 CLP. The boat only runs two or three times a day. It is also possible to walk the distance, about 10 km down the road on the south side of the lake. From there you can catch a bus, which also only runs a couple of times per day, to Puerto Octay with connections to Osorno (which is the better resupply option). It is easy to catch a bus to Osorno, Puerto Varas, or Puerto Montt which all have large supermarkets. To my knowledge the boat runs not daily. Please check with locals and provide current information to the ferry Las Gaviotas.
Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues
Links to other Resources
Retired Section Article GPT20 - Volcán Antillanca