GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

* Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias

Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

Add a sub-chapter by placing two "=" before and after the new sub-chapter heading ('==Sub-Chapter Heading==').

Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

From 2024-01-06 to 2024-01-12 // 6,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT D // Quentin Clavel

After the small part in the forest, I followed the gravel road, which began to be nice from the Laguna la Clara. Some nice miradors along the roads, especially the last one, salto Rio Perez, which was pretty impressive !

Then you begin the track los Pioneros. Pretty easy to follow, a bit muddy, but I thought it would have been worse, the last sunny weeks made it dryer than expected.

From there, it's a sequence of up and down, with amazing views, on Lago Christie then on Lago Alegre, surrounded by mountains.

Some easy bushbashing which is more like cross country at the end of Lago Alegre to arrive along the Rio bravo.

The you go along the Rio bravo until cross it. I took the option D to avoid to cross it three times, it's bushbashing but pretty easy to follow as there's a kind of path which was created to go around the small cliffs, and have to cross rio bravo only once.

On the section, at this time, I haven't got any problem at all to pass the rivers who were pretty low and with weak current.

Then I arrived in the mountains and that was just amazing ! Even with an uncertain weather and lots of clouds !

I had an amazing bivy in front of the impressive calluqueo glacier then it was the looong Gravel road to Cochrane, but really scenic !

During all the section it was easy to find water as there's water everywhere ! Some nice camp spot too.

Mosquitoes and these spiky plants who stay scratched to your shoes and socks are the only annoying stuff.

Plenty of crowberry and Calafate on the track. Delicious and perfect snacks on the road !

Last but not least, if you've always dreamed to try hurdles in athletism, this section is for you ! You'll have to pass threw hundreds of fallen trees ! Enjoy !

• 2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-08 / 7.5 days / NOBO / Villa O'Higgins - Cochrane / RR and Option 36H-D / Alex & Christophe

We really enjoyed this section, especially the part of the pass, with awesome views on glaciers and mountains. We found the 2 lakes part nice but less impressive.

For us, the most difficult with this section was to walk with heavy backpacks and to deal with the hundreds of mosquitoes on the camps near the two lakes. We had the chance to have dry trails most of the time and it helped us a lot. If it rains a lot before you start this section, you will need more time because the trail can get muddy really fast.

After the first 9km in the forest, we tried to hitchhike from Villa O'Higgins to Lago Christie but we weren't lucky and couldn't find a car on a 1st of January. We only had a lift the second day for 15km by the carabineros. There is nearly no car passing on the X905 road so plan a day or two of extra food if you plan to hitchhike here. Taking a private transport to Lago Christie could also be a solution but it's expensive (about 70'000 CLP according to Martin from El Mosco in Villa O'Higgins).

There is not much to say about the 2 lake part, we found the trail easy to follow and some nice shelter along the route. Apparently, there is a lot of trout in Lago Alegre. We didn't try to fish since it was raining but we let a peanut butter jar with a spoon (hook) and some fishing line rolled around the jar in the puesto next to Settler {36H} [118.9/486] (Margarita Bustos). She's actually not living there but the puesto is open and a nice shelter to cook (we put the tent next to it).

For the second part with the pass, we found the trail also easy to follow. The OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} didn't took us too long and saved us at least 2 river crossing. All the other fords were sometimes wide but easy to pass.

After 7 days, we tried to hitchhike on the X901 road near the Laguna Calluqueo and were really lucky. After only 4km, a car stopped and took us to X {36H} [5.5/267]. Maybe there is more traffic on this road than on the other side, especially with good weather during the holidays.

• 2023-Dec-25 to 2023-Dec-29 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris

We arranged a ride to skip the first 50km of the roadwalk. The trail was surprisingly good and well-trodden throughout, i.e. visually easy to follow. Some muddy sections here and there and steeper climbs and descents. Plenty of water throughout.

The river crossings didn't pose any difficulties and we were blessed with good weather, despite one rainy night. The views were amazing - that so low down you could be face to face with glaciers!

We did not find the trail around lakes any harder than the rest of the section. A few times the route goes on the coast, i.e. you need to walk through the water, but it was not an issue. In two cases the route splits into two, the correct trail being the easier one to miss, so need to pay attention to nav. Met Ruben the settler, very nice and friendly guy. We also met 4 other GPT hikers on this section, which was a bit of a shock.

We walked 30km of the dirt road after Lago Christie until we finally got a hitch to Villa O'Higgins. Barely any traffic on the road, especially in the afternoon.

• 2023-12-07 EXP-OH-TL-I 1day / Anh

There is a damaged and not yet reopened route from Villa O’Higgins to Glacier Mosco: EXP-OH-TL-I & EXP-OH-CC&TL-I Together they are 24 km return and with a daypack it could work. The EXP-OH-TL-I trail is very well maintained and relatively well marked. There is even a very nice Refugio Puesto Rivera + campsite for tents along the way. BUT from km 7 the trail is damaged by landslides and the section after that is overgrown. I tried the last km via BB through the forest. After that everything should be clear and only CC to the Mosco glacier. Unfortunately, I make very slow progress with BB, it simply takes too much time and with a temperature of 15°C the river crossing afterwards would be dangerous. Unfortunately I have to abort (safety first) & return.

• 2023-12-10 / 4 days / RR + OH-TL-V / SOBO / Anh

A very experienced hiker/local in Villa O'Higgins advised me against NoBo due to high water levels in the next few days regarding river crossings.

Day 1: With a private transfer to Laguna Calluqueo I had to hike a few more kilometers to the end of Ruta X-901 because it is private land closed by a gate. The first two river crossings were a bit above knee and sometimes strong current. The trail after that in the forest is actually made for horses, there are a lot of obstacles like fallen trees, overgrown bush, swampy paths. It is particularly misleading when the RR and horse path separate because it is suddenly very strange without horse tracks. It has rained and with the snow melting, the paths and streams are almost indistinguishable. I make very slow progress through the obstacles. The river crossing (Ford km 66.5) was long but in the evening without any problems (knee-deep). The path afterwards RR-CC-A to the camp was steep uphill, but more pleasant than in the forest. As you can see, this trail is only for hikers and it was very rarely used.

Day 2: It was CC up, across the border from Argentina & back into Chile. At this time there are still many snowfields to cross and therefore Ford (km 71.8) was under the snowfield, which made it very precarious for me. The river crossing Ford (km 77.4) was up to my hips with a strong current, but is not dangerous. Overall, I was much faster because there were hardly any obstacles (only Fords and completely swampy meadow).

Day 3: The way back from yesterday + 250m river crossing should be easy and pleasant like yesterday! But there was a strong headwind & snow = snow confusion. Then there was the fog and the infamous white-out. My footprints from yesterday were already filled with fresh snow, but still recognizable. I didn't have a long break, so I reached the day's destination very quickly. Bored, I just carried on hiking and didn't find the way back in the forest from day 1 so bad. I got through all the obstacles surprisingly quickly with the following strategy: - I had put on remedies on the way out, it had helped a lot. And I run like a horse, don't think twice, just jump over obstacles. The path is made for horses. - The way back is from the top, the path is much easier to recognize. - New strategy: just follow the horse tracks, even if I leave the RR. In the end, I had completed the entire way back from two days earlier in one day. It was about 27km, only possible because it was mostly downhill (450m uphill, 700m downhill). The price for this strategy was scratches and mini cuts from knees to shoes, very unpleasant at every river crossing.

Day 4: OH-TL-V to the glacier at Laguna Calluqueo. You have to cross the river right at the beginning, it was a bit over your knees but easy. After that it's a slow climb of almost 700m. There were only a few tricky places: mini path on the precipice or slippery downhill. Overall, the path was very easy to recognize and very pleasant to run. Water is only available again at km 3.5, so you should take your time and enjoy the trail at a leisurely pace. During the night, a tent pole broke and the tent was damaged. There are no outdoor stores in Cochrane and you can't buy a new tent. In addition, a section on RR-GPT35 from Tamango entrance through Patagonia Park was not yet open.

Season 2022/23

• 2022 Dec Frank 6 days mainly SOBO

As weather was initially poor I split the section as follows: 1. Got bus from Cochrane towards Lago Brown, got out @ road junction near Rio Tranquilo bridge, walked NOBO back to Cochrane. 2. While I was waiting for the ferry in Villa O'Higgins I walked out about 25KM NOBO to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched back to O'Higgins. 3. I again got the bus towards Lago Brown, got out @ the same junction & walked the central section of the route SOBO in 4 long days.

1. NOBO, nearly all on road. You pass by the 'mortal falls' on Rio Tranquilo (by the bridge) About 1KM further on the road was blocked by aggressive dogs who came up from a settlement about 800M off the road. I had to shout to the settler to call them off. Around 7KM out from Cochrane the road bends left at a metal crash barrier. I left the RR here & went over the low crash barrier & continued straight ahead on forest tracks, quicker & nicer than the road. About 1KM from Cochrane you return to the road by climbing over a small wooden gate.

3. I walked on the road past Calluqueo glacier then on a trail. After the first puesto the track fades out among fallen trees. Camped by a ruined shelter. I crossed the river on RR the next day. La Picota crossing is for horses & best avoided on foot. The RR crossing was easy. After the crossing continue straight ahead & go up the far hillside, pick up a small trail going left above a bluff about 70 metres up. Continued over the 2 border passes. There are some cliffs you need to go round when descending the first pass . There will be snowfields early in the season also. I crossed Rio Bravo high up between two waterfalls, descended to cross it again by the lake, then stayed on LHS of Rio Bravo. No trail initially on LHS of river & a lot of bush bashing over bluffs but judging by later comments the route may now be improved. I continued down to Lago Alegre. There is a settler just as you reach Lago Alegre. She was friendly & allowed me to sleep in her barn. She radioed Ruben, the settler who lives on Lago Christie, to let him know I was coming. It's slow going round the lakes with lots of up & down over bluffs. The hut between the two lakes had been used by sheep & was not in v. good condition. I met Ruben about half way round Lago Christie. He was friendly but I continued on to camp by a ruined hut after descending from bluffs to the lake. I walked out the road to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched from there to Villa O'Higgins. There is a good hut on the road at the junction with the X905 road. Another hut further on but it's dusty. All other huts marked on the route are in poor condition or ruined, they are mostly good for cooking & camping outside. The weather for the central section was good so I didn't have any problems. It's possible to hitch part of the road sections - traffic is sparse but they will usually stop. In both cases when you reach the road there is nothing, you need to walk out about 15KM & then start hitching.

Season 2019/20

• 11/12/2019 - les 2 As - regular hiking route

Hi! We finished this day the section 36 from north to south. It took us 6 days without the last 37 kms on the road (we hitchhiked on this part). It was rough, we have had 2 days of bad weather (only rain at our altitude but it changes everything). You are isolated in the middle of nowhere and we met no one during 5 days. Officially no bush bashing but sometimes the path is barely invisible and unmaintained so hard to walk. From the 3rd day to the end, we have had many rivercrossings. Some were easy, some not and some also quite dangerous. With all the snow melting, the level of the river is very high and the current is strong (I do not recommand to try these fords without walking poles, these saved us). Same situation with the lakes we walked near. Their level is high and often the path was submerged and we had to walk litteraly in the lake (sometimes up to the waist). Luckily we met 2 cabañas (2 last nights) to dry our clothes and sleep under a roof. This made the section even more wonderful than it already was. A great experience!

• 2019 Dec / Olrik / Northbound

From O'Higgins there are 50km on a dirt road to the beginning of the sendero. There are some open refugios on the way to sleep. you can also arrange a paid transportation from O'Higgins. Hitchhiking is possible but there is not much traffic. The sendero was in pretty bad shape due to the weather conditions. Muddy and flooded all the way near the lakes. We ended up turning back as we did not plan to walk that slow and did not have enough food, and we felt it was safer. We met Matthieu (see below) and they completed it so his report seems better. Puesteros are really nice though.

• 2019 Dec / Matthieu / Northbound Regular HR : 9 days

A very difficil trekk for us. Lots of river crossings, sometimes unsafe, and we had very bad weather conditions that make us last 9 days on the trekk, with hitchiking 40 km after Villa and 30 km before Cochrane. It could habe been more rapid though, but we walked "tranquilito". So I would recommend to take 10 days of food,and the chileans agreed with this.

I wont talk about the routes parts, because just long and we hitchhiked most.

So 1st Part : The 2 lakes : A very technical trekk, very aquatic. Sometimes we had to walk in the lake (not dangerous though), and the trail by the lakes is very hilly and muddy, and the progression can be very slow. It was for us, with mostly only rain. 1 dangerous rivercrossing : Before El Caleuche, Strong river but a big fat trunk above perfect for crossing.We didnt search for another way of crossing, so maybe there are some safe places by the water.

On this part, a few puestos good for shelters : between the two lakes, a good caban with possibility of making fire and a roof of metal and walls, very nice, two beds of wood, we slept in it well protected. El Caleuche : at the middle of the Lago alegre, near a abandoned house. POssibility of fire, but not really a good roof. We slept aside in the tents. The place is really nice though

2 houses of settlers on the way : - Ruben at the beginning of the Lago Christie, always happy to have visitors and share a mate. - At the end of the Lago Allegre a little bit south west from the trail (a rivercrossing a bit strong to go to the caban, or a "bridge" called Bridge ?-4 on the GPS waypoints, with 2 trunks, that we took in the morning to go back to the trail. A bit dangerous though, better to let Carmen show you how to cross): Ringo y Carmen, amazing persons too who let us plant the tent and permitted us to warm with a good mate, a meal and a wonderful smile, during the Christmas night.

2nd part : Rio Bravo and the pass We thought that the worst was behind but we had more strong weather conditions in this part. A few advises for the rivercrossings of the Rio Bravo : I would advise NOT to follow the GPS tracks that follow the normal trail on GPS devices (that is made normally for horses). All the locals (local guides in villa o higgins, Ruben, Carmen and Ringo) were agreed and told us all to follow the east side of the Rio UNTIL the Laguna. The crossing here is very safe, the rio not strong nor profund at all, and you have to cross it ONLY ONCE, instead of 4 or 5 (dont remember). To stay on the east side, there is a little cross country by the forest, a little bit technical and slow but not dangerous, and you can camp at the laguna on the east side. We saw some cairns in the forest too, on the last hill before the laguna, so the locals indeed use this way. We (very badly) abandonned this plan and passed by the normal way just near the camping site west from the river before the Laguna (really bad weather, really bad decisions !) and the rivercrossings (3 I think) were, for me, very dangerous with strong current in profund water, but there was a lot of rain and wind, so I wont judge during good conditions. We were frozen when we arrived at the camping site. I was very angry at me though to not have listened to the locals and taken all those risks.

For the pass, not very difficult, but we had (again) very strong weather conditions with even snow, and finished at the camp at the north side completely frozen. Know that it can be very exposed !

Last Part : Rio La Picota After the camping : Two choices - Following the normal road, made for horses. The rivercrossing is completely impossible, unless you want to join the fishes. Even for horses I don't understand how they do it. The Waypoint "Dangerous" totally make sense. - The GPS tracks : perfect to follow, and finished by a beautiful trail of cairns by the cliff (the optionnal trail OH on GPS track), very safe. The river crossing this way is very safe, the river is extremely large, separated and never go far from the ankle.

The rest we didn't have any technical difficulties. A trekk not to take lightly, and with much respect. Take advises to the locals before. Every one is happy to talk about it in Villa. They have the bad habbit to say that it's an easy way though !

• 2019-Nov-12 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe / 6 days / northbound / regular hiking route

This was a tough section for us! It rained and it rained and it rained and the trail turned to mud and was pretty overgrown in parts. We took the optional Hiking route after reaching Rio Bravo heading South to the Carretera Austral because we didn't feel comfortable forging on, knowing there was a high pass that was probably getting tons of snow instead of our rain, and a "dangerous river ford" that we were afraid would be tok dangerous with flooding too. The snow-line appeared to drop as low as 700 meters one night! We made surprisingly slow progress because of the conditions (entire trail flooded knee deep and extremely muddy after 6 days of rain) - were glad to have extra food with us. On the bail out route, about 10km from reaching the safety of the Carratera there was a pretty big river to cross. It was swollen after all the rain and scary and nearly floated us away. From the Carratera we hiked about 20 minutes before catching a lift back to Villa O'Higgins

Season 2017/18

• Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:

Walk through town and join Highway 7, a moderately trafficked dirt road. The Regular Hiking Route follows X-901, a beautiful but fenced dirt road that culminates in the view of a stunning glacier, for about 28 km until it ends at a blockade just after the Mirador Calluqueo. Along X-901 there are few residences but extensive fence line on both sides. At the end of the road, the route transitions into a braided single track trail that may be confusing to follow.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: I recently changed the regular packrafting route of GPT36H. This change avoids 35 km of gravel and adds around 70 km of paddling on the two lakes and one river. It’s a big detour but adds impressive beauty. Note that paddling Lago Cochrane is very challenging as wind can be firce. Follow the regular packrafting route only if you are willing and prepared to possibly wait several days on the shore of Lago Cochrane if wind makes paddling this lake unsafe.

The trail, called La Ruta de Los Pioneros since it is frequently used by the local people, occasionally passes run down refugios as it winds through the forest. At the beginning of the climb to the highest pass, the trail joins a glacial river. Eventually the trail leaves the river to the west and follows a higher route above the valley that is occasionally marked by stone cairns. The top of the pass is at approximate elevation 1.300 m. From this point, there are several kilometers of very exposed hiking among rolling hills.

The track descends down to treeline at a small, unnamed lake which is the source of the Río Bravo. Join the river and cross it as necessary. There are some stone cairns that mark the way, but they can be hard to spot. When the route is unclear, just follow the river bed. Where the trail deviates from the river bed to the east, it becomes easier to follow. The trail soon climbs about 80 m and remains above Río Bravo. Here there is the occasional small area to camp. To reach Lago Alegre, the trail leaves Río Bravo and travels through an open forest.

Packrafters put in for Lago Alegre at a red sand beach. In general, both banks are very steep and heavily vegetated, but there are some flat areas near the shore where it may be possible to camp. Take-out is located at a rocky beach on the southeast end. 100 m from the Lago Alegre shoreline is an intact refugio; if you look closely inside, you may spot the etchings of GPT trail blazers, Jan and Meylin.

From the refugio, there is a well-formed track to Lago Christie. The Regular Hiking route around the east side of Lago Christie is generally easy to follow, but be aware of the occasional spurs that leads away from the main route. The track climbs and descends frequently as it makes its way around the lake and offers a beautiful view of several glaciers. Watch for the occasional stone cairn or red spray-painted arrow to indicate the way. Camping is possible in the forest.

The route exits onto X-911, a well formed and lightly trafficked gravel road. X-911 ends at X-905, and hikers continue to follow this road for around 20 km towards VIlla O’Higgins. X-905 is fence lined most of the way with the occasional residence.

Río Mayer is a big, no-nonsense river that is swift at higher flows. It does however mellow out where the GPS route indicates packrafters should put in (a small beach on the other side of the fence).

The Regular Hiking Route follows the Carretera Austral into Villa O’Higgins.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Villa O’Higgins

The biggest thing to realize about Villa O’Higgins is that nearly all of the lodging and restaurant options only take cash and there is no ATM in town. The closest place to withdraw money is Cochrane which is a 9-hour drive. Fortunately, there are two grocery stores in town thatl take credit cards. Lodging options vary from camping to a bed in a hostel.

• Supermarket on the square in Cochrane. Several shops in Villa O'Higgins.

• Banco Estado on the square in Cochrane. The ATM was open on Christmas day.

• Cochrane: Campsite run by Patricia half a block from the Plaza. She does a good breakfast & also has Cabanas & a 4 bed dorm.

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

• There are no resupply options & you should bring everything from Cochrane or O'Higgins. There are only two settlers living permanently on the central off road RR: A woman at Lago Alegre & Ruben on Lago Christie. All other off road puestos are only used occasionally.

Transport to and from Route

• There is a minibus from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins on Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8AM & one from O'Higgins to Cochrane on Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday @ 8AM. Operated by Buses Katalina, they have an office at the bus terminal in Cochrane. There is a minibus from Cochrane to Lago Brown on Monday & Thursday at 11AM. It comes back from Lago Brown on the same days & passes the junction with RR at about 2PM.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT36H - Ruta De Los Pioneros

Images

Puerto Yungay - Rio Bravo Ferry Timetable February 2024