GPT78P (Estuario de Reloncavi)

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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2021/22

• 2021-Nov-25 to 2021-Nov-28 / 4 days / GPT78 RR Southbound / Land traverse from Rio Puelo to Hornopiren / Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck

 First: Thank you Linda Bortoletto and Martin Lizondo for recording this route when being guided by Patricio Bayer in season 2019/20. And thank you for leaving a positive memory with Patricio Bayer. We were granted permission to cross his property after a phone call.

This route connects Rio Puelo with Hornopiren via Lago Pinto Concha. Highlights are the dense Valdivian Rainforest, the gigantic Alerce trees, the wetlands on the plateau with Cypress trees, the traverse of the volcanic terrain of volcan Yates and the lake Pinto Concha.

This route was created many decades ago to drive cattle from the Puelo valley to the coast before a road was build along the Puelo river. Now this route is barely used and only the trail section inside the National Park Hornopiren towards Hornopiren is well maintained.

This route is best hiked southbound and only after obtaining permission from Patricio Beyer by phone (+56 9 8132 4070 and +56 9 9573 5461). You will also cross the property of Eulogio (Lalo) Soto who will probably checks by phone with Patricio Beyer first before letting you pass. He will charge an entrance fee of 5000 CLP per person.

The route is now slightly altered on the northern end to facilitate a otherwise very demanding river crossing (Diversion from Regular Route at: S 41.7806 / W 72.2403 … Now recommended river ford: S 41.7771 / W 72.2359 … Rejoin Regular Route at: S 41.7803 / W 72.7204). This part of the trail is generally well maintained and visible.

The navigation challenge starts south of the Puesto of Patricio Bayer (Point: Settler {78} [37.6/398]) and ends when leaving the forrest towards the lava field of Volcan Yates (southern end of track: RH-TL&BB-V {78} [24.6+16.8]). A good part of the trail is rarely used and poorly maintained and many animal tracks make the “main trail” often indistinguishable from other weakly visible tracks. But the often dense vegetation and the irregular geography make following the “main trail” essential.

We verified our position typically every 50 m, sometimes even more often. The internal compass of our handheld GPS was very helpful to frequently realign us to the “main trail” that takes many unexpected turns and twists.

I assume we are the first hikers in many years that walk this route without a guide. But even with a very precise GPS record the navigation was unexpected demanding. We consumed substantially more GPS battery power than normal due to the frequent checks and we still accidentally wandered of the “main trail” often. Hikers have no chance to traverse this route without a GPS and without the GPT track file. Even backtracking out memory is barely possible. Therefore a backup navigation device and sufficient recharge power are a life insurance on this route.

Once the open lava field of Volcan Yates is reached navigation becomes simpler. After a cross country traverse in an open volcanic landscape a well maintained and easily visible trail leads down to Lago Pinto Concha and Hornopiren.

Season 2018/19

• 2018-Dec-14 to 2018-Dec-17 / GPT78P / Packrafting (Hornopiren to Rio Puelo along the coast) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González

After we failed to traverse on the land route from Hornopirén to Rio Puelo (via Lago Pinto Concha and Rio Traidor) we opted for the sea route. This water route turned out to be challenging as expected but more feasible. 100 km in fjords and along rather open coast lines was easier and also more attractive than fighting our way through 7 km of Valdivian Rainforest (this was the length of the „missing link” of the land route that we attempted last week but couldn’t traverse fully).

Hornopirén to Puntilla Pichicolo: This is a section with very few exits along a steep coast. It should be paddled in the early morning before wind picks up. A short cut from Cholgo (GPT77P) via the hot springs Llancahue to Puntilla Pichicolo is smart choice if you do not need to resupply in Hornopirén. We paddled it on a calm morning with hardly and wind.

Puntilla Pichocolo to Rolecha: This sector is less problematic since you paddle along a flat coast with plenty of exits next to a road. This part is more wind exposed but you can easily switch between paddling, hiking or taking motorized transport. We paddled most of this segment (to Queten) where increasing head wind forced us out of the water and we took motorized transport to Caleta Puelche to not wait two days for a change of weather.

Rolecha to Tentelhue: Due to strong currents and wind exposure at the water route around tip of the peninsula it seams a wise choice to hike 2 km on the road instead of paddling if you camped or stopped nearby.

Tentelhue to Caleta Puelche: This segment is less problematic since you paddle along a flat coast with plenty of exits next to a road. This part is more wind exposed but you can easily switch between paddling, hiking or taking motorized transport. We took motorized transport to Caleta Puelche.

Fiordo Reloncavi (Caleta Puelche to Rio Puelo): This fjords is quite challenging due to wind and partly strong tidal currents. There are some exits along the coast. Favourable wind (Northbound travel direction) are common but might get too strong to paddle or sail safely. We struggled on the first 8 km with strong currents despite having rising tide. Flows at the fjord entrance are rather strange and unexpected. We than continue the next morning but had to bail out after 1 hour on the water to wait for more suitable weather (strong wind, heavy rain, low visibility made paddling to dangerous). We luckily stopped at the right place and became the guests of an older couple that cultivate mussels. We spend a day of rest with them in their tiny house right on the coast. Once the conditions improved it became a fantastic but demanding paddling day. We started in calm weather and around noon strong wind from the back pushed us to Rio Puelo and further to Cochamo. More details on request.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT78 - Estuario de Reloncaví